TRAVEL from ST PETERSBURG RUSSIA. to c^v DIVERSE PARTS o f A S I A- I N TWO VOLUMES. /SSL if TAXW\*v B Y O H N BELL, of antermony. VOLUME L A journey to Ispahan in persia, in the yecrs 1715, 171 6, 1717, and 1718. Part of a journey to pekin in cm- CONTAINING na, through Siberia, in the years 17 1 9, 17 20, and t 7 2 1. With a map of the Author's two routes between mosco and pekin. GLASGOW: Printed for the Author by Robert and Andrew Foulis Printers to the University m.dcc.lxui. Sold by R. & A Foulis, and A Stalker at Glasgow ; Kincaid & bell at Edinburgh; A. Miller, J. Nourse, T. Becket & P. A dettoNDT, and C. Henderson in London ; J. Leake, and J. Frederick at Bath; andT. Cadell at Bristol. Thij treatife of Tx Ayei.s is entered in Stationer'j- hall, according to aft of Parliament; if any pcrfon (hall be found to print the fome, without permiflion of the Author, they will be profecuttd according to law. TO THE GOVERNOR, COURT OF ASSISTANTS, AND FREEMEN OF THE RUSSIA-COMPANY; AND TO THE BRITISH FACTORIES IN RUSSIA; THE FOLLOWING RELATIONS OF TRAVELS, &c ARE RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED, AS A TESTIMONY OF GRATITUDE FOR THE FAVOURS RECEIVED, FROM MANY OF THEM, BY THEIR MOST OBEDIENT, AND VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, ANTERMONY, the ift of Ottobcr *Y, the") , 1762. 5 THE AUTHOR I THE SUBSCRIBERS. a. THE right hon. Earl of Aylef-ford. George Abercromby of Tillibody, Efq; Ifaac Akerman, Efq; Fenchurch-ltreet. Ralph Allen, Efq; Prior-park, 2 fets. Sir John Anftruther of Anftruther.Bart. 2 fets. John Anderfon, Efq; London. Sir Charles Afgill, Bart. 2 fets. Mr. Hugh Atkins, merchant, London-, 4 fets. B. The right hon. Lord Belhaven. The right hon. Lord Bruce. The hon. George Brown of Coalfton, fenator of the College of Juftice. The rev. Thomas Bagfhaw, D. D. The hon. George Baillie of Jervifwood, Efq; William Baird of New-Baith, Efq; Henry Baker, Efq; F. R. S. James Barclay, Efq; John Barclay, Efq; David Barclay, junr. Efq; The rev. Dr. Barclay, Fellow of Merton- coll. Oxon. James Robinfon Barclay of Kevle, Efq; Richard Becher, Efq; Thomas Beckct, bookfeller, London. Peter Bell, fenr. Efq; Glafgow. Peter Bell, junr. William Bell, merchant at Leith, 2. fets. The rev. Mr. William Bell, milliner at Campfey. Mr. William Bell of Gucrnfcy. Archibald Bell at Manchefter* Capt. Thomas Beooet, London. James Benfbn, Efq; London. Thomas Beft, Efq; Capt. Leonard Bazer, London. Dr. Birch, fecretary to the Royal Society.- Dr. Blair. Blount, apothecary to the De-von-hofpital, Exon. Charles Bouchiar, Efq; Edmonton. The rev. Mr. Bouchery, SwafFham. John Bond of Grange, Efq; The hon. Alex. Bofwell of Auchinleck, fenator of the College of Juftice. Boyd of Trochrig, Efq; Sir Brook Bridges, Bart. Ifaac Hawkins Brown, Efq; The rev. Mr. John Bradfute. Thomas Berney Bramfton of Skreens, Efq; Alexander Brown of Ardrie. Jacob Bryant, Efq; James Buchanan of Drumpellier, Efq; Arch. Buchanan of Drummikil, Efq; The rev. Dr. Buckler, Fellow of All-Souls, Oxon. Mrs, Buchanan of Auchinreoch. Merrkk Burrell, Efq; James Burnet of Mountbodo, Efq; The rev. Mr. Bufh of London. John Byrom, M. D. Manchefter. Edward Byrom of Manchefter.. Mr. Bruch. James Bell of Kirk ton, Efq; Matthew Bell, Efq; of Newcaftle. Andrew Burnet, merchant of St. Petersburg. C. The right hon. Earl of Cardigan. The ri^ht hon. Earl of Chcftcriield. The The light hon. Earl Cowpcr. The right hon. Countcis -dowager of Carliflf. The right rev. Bp. of Carlifle, F.R.S. David Cadder of Inchbruch. William Caddie, junr. of Carron. John Cameron of Carntyn. Mrs. Mary Campbell of Balquhanc The hon. John Campbell, junr. of Stonefield, fenator of the College of Juftice. Dr. John Campbell. Alex. Campbell, furgeon at Pool. Daniel Campbell, Efq; John Campbell, Efq; Daniel Campbell of Shaw field, Efq; Pryce Campbell, Efq; Lieut. Col. Robert Campbell. John Callendar of Craigforth, Efq; John Carmlehael of Caftlecraig, Efq.; James Carmiehael of Hales, Efq; John Cathcart, Efq; James Caulet, Ellj; John Cayley, merchant, St. Petersburg. James Cheap of Sawchy, Efq; The rev. Dr. Samuel Chandler. Alex. Chancelotir of Shiclhill, Efq; Jofeph Chippemlall of Manchefter. Choi well, Efq; of the Temple. Richard Champion, Efq; of Briftol. William Champion, Efq; of Briftol. Sir James Clark of Pennycook, Bart. Dr. Matthew Clarke. The rev. Mr. John Clayton of Manchefter. Benjamin Coole of St. Petersburg, merchant. Dr. John Cook of Hamilton. Peter Collinfon, F. R. S. William Colquhoun of Carfcadden Efq; Andrew Cochrane, Efq; late provoft of Glafgow. Peter Colvil, jujur, of Ochiltiie, Elqj John Cornwall, Efq; of London. James Corbett of Tolcrofs, Efq; James Corbett, merchant in Glafgow. Jofiah Cotton, Efq; Old Jewry. Hofea Coates, Efq; of Dublin. Oliver Coult, Efq; Nicholas Crifp, Efq; Crayle Crayle, Efq; John Cruikfhank, merchant of London, 6 fets. William Cumming, M. D. of Dorchefter. Alex. Cunningham, Efq; of Edinburgh. Mr. Currie. John Campbell of Clathick, Eft}; John Campbell, Efq; James Campbell of Ardkinlas, Efq; Mrs. Campbell of Menzie. Alan Cuthbertfon,merchant in Glafgow. D. Her Grace the Dutchefs of Douglas, 6 fets. The right hon. the Earl of Dunmore. Baron De Witz minifter from Mecklenburg. The right hon. Robert Dundas of Ar-nifton, Lord Prelident of the Court of Seftion. Sir David Dalrymple, Bart. Theophilus Daubuz, Efq; Robert Davenport, merchant in Lond. John Davie, merchant in Edinburgh. Andrew Deviime, Efq; London. John Deponthieu merchant, London. John 11. Dcmorin, merchant, St. Petersburg. Simon Defnizkoi, from the univerfity of Mofco, at prefent ftudent at the U-niverlity of Glafgow. Robert Dingley, Efq; London. Henry Digge, Efq; John Dickfon of Kilbucko, Efq; The rev. John Dickenfon, A. M. Wif-bich. Dickenfon, Efq; Lincoln's Jnn. Sir Sir Alex. Dick of Preftonfield, Bart. Alex. Dcmaldfon, bookfeller, Edinb. Mrs. Duncan at Edinburgh. The rev. Chriftopher Duffield of Feather (tone. George Drummond of Blairdrummond, Efq; Alex. Duff of Hatton, Efq; Thomas Dundas of Quarrell, Efq; Henry Dundas, Efq; advocate, 2 fets. The rev. Dr. Dumarefque. Governor Dinwiddie. John Drummond of Logie-Almond, Efq; E. The right hon. Earl of Elgin. The right hon. Earl of Errol. The hon. Charles Elphinftoue of Cumbernauld, Efq; The hon. James Erskine of Barjarg, fenator of the College of Juftice. John Erskine of Carnock, Efq; Mr. David Erskine, writer in EtUnb. Peter Eaton, Efq; Godolphin Edwards, Efq; George Edwarels, Efq; John Erskine of Cardrofs, Efq; James Erskine, Efq; advocate. Thomas Eyre, Efq; Mifs Nelly Edmonflon, of Newton, F. The hon. Edward Finch, Efq; The hon. Mrs. Finch. . Fall, Efq; provoft of Dunbar. Peter Fearon of London. William Fergus of Kirkintilloch. Sir Adam Fergufon of Kilkerran, Bart. Robert Fergufon, Efq; Auftin-friars. Thomas Forefter of Denovan. John Fordyce, Efq; merchant in Edinb. The rev. Mr. Forefter, reclor of Paf-fenham, Northamptonfhire. Robert Fordyce, merch. in Aberdeen. V < Dr. William Freer, Edinburgh. Mifs Freamc. Robert Freeland of Kirkintilloch. Jofeph Freame, Efq; of London. Mofes Franco, Efq; James Frampton of Mozeton, Efq; George Frafer of Edinburgh. George Fuller ton, Efq; at Leith. William Frederick, bookfeller, Bath. G. The right hon. John Earl of Granville, Knight of the Garter, Prefident of the Privy Council, &c. 50 fets, The right hon. Earl of Granard. The right hon. Earl of Glencairn. The right rev. BiQiop of Glocefter. The hon. William Grant of Prefton-G range, fenator of the College of Juftice. Francis Garden, Efq; one of his Majc- fty's follicitors. Dr. Gareliner of Great MafTmgharn, Norfolk. Robert Gardiner of Edinburgh. Alexander Garden of Troup, Efq; John Gibfon, broker in London. Ofgood Gee, Efq; Phil. Gell, Efq; of Hope ton, Derbyfhire. John Gavfhore of Gadhore, Efq; Alex. Gibfon, junr. of Durye, Efq; Mr. John Glafsford, merchant in Glafgow. James Glen, Efq; late governor of S, Carolina. Thomas Goldney, Efq; of Clifton. Mrs. Ann Goldney of Clifton. Mis. Gordon at Glafgow. Chamberlain Godfrey, Efq; Jofeph Godfrey, Efq; Peter Godfrey, Efq; Edmund Godfrey, Efq; Thomas Godfrey, Efq; Richard Gough, Efq; William William Gomm, junr. merchant, St. Petersburg. John Gordon, Efq; Charles Gough, Efq; London. James Grieve, M. D. St. Petersburg. Silvanus Grove, Efq; James Grofet of Breadifholm, Efq; David Graham of Micklewood, Efq; Sir Archibald Grant, Bart. The rev. Mr. Andrew Gray, miniftcr of New Kilpatrick. The rev. Dr. Green, rector of Bell- Broughton, Worceflerfhire. William Graham of Airth, Efq; 2 fets. David Graeme of Orchill, Efq; Henry Graeme, Efq; 2 fets. John Galbreath of Balgare, Efq; Library of the Univerfity of Glafgow. H. "The right hon. Earl of Hyndford. Countefs of Hyndford. Earl of Haddington. "Earl of HoldernefTe. Earl of Home. The hon. James Hamilton, Efijj Charles Hamilton of Wifhaw, Efq; Lady Hamilton of Rofehall. Henry Hamilton, Efq; Londonderry. Robert Haldane of Glenegy, Efq; Patrick Haldane, Efq; Capel Hanbury, Efq; Jonas Hanway, Efq; Alex. Hay of DrummelHer, Efq; Will. Hay, junr. of Drummellier, Efq; Rev. Mr. Harden. John Hardman of Manchefter. George 1 lay of St. Petersburg. George Gottfried Harenfeller of St. Petersburg. Rev. Dr. Harrifon of C. C. C. Oxford. William Ilavard of London. The hon. Dr. Hay. John Hay of Beltcn, Efq; William Heron, Efq; James Henckell, Efq; London. Rev. Mr. Humphrey Henchman. Sir Robert Henderfon of Fordell, Bart. Thomas Hepburn, merchant in Edinb. Patrick Heron of Heron, Efq; Richard Hoare of Boreham, Efq; William Hog and fon, of Edinburgh. William Hope Wier, Efq; Edmund Holme of Manchefter. Charles Grave Hudfon, F. R. S. William Hudfon, F. R. S. Haldane, junr. of Lanerk, Efq; Robert Hudfon, Efq; I. Archibald Ingram, Efq; prefent Lord Provoft of Glafgow. James Jackfon, merchant of St. Peters-burgh. William Johnfton of London. JC. Robert Kennedy of Aughtefardel, Efq; James Kennedy of Kayly, Efq; Thomas Kennedy, junr. of Denure,Efq; Kincaid and Bell, bookfellers in Edinburgh, 6 fets. E. King, Efq; of Lincoln's Inn. Marfden Kenyon of Manchefter. John Kincaid of Kincaid, Efq; Mr. Geo. Kippen, merchant in Glafgow. Henry Klaufing of St. Petersburg, merchant. Sir Wyndham Knatchbull, Bart. Thomas Knight, Efq; L. The right hon. Earl of Leven. William Lenox of Woodhead, Efq; T. Llewellin, L. L. D. W. J. Liebman, London. Sir David Lindfay, Bart. William Loch, writer, of Edinburgh. Library Library of Liverpool. John Lockhart of Lee, Efq; James Livingfton, writer at Falkirk. Thomas Lockhart, Efq; Theodore Luders, Efq; counfellor of the embaffy from the court of Ruflia. Revd. Mr. Jonathan Lypeatt, of Borin- gcr, Eflex. John Lenox, Efq; Gilbert Laing, merchant in St. Petersburg. M. His ftrene highnefs Prince Charles of Mecklenburgh-Strclitz. His ferene highnefs Prince Erneft, of Mecklenbnrgh-Strelitz. His grace the Duke of Montrofe, 6 fets. The right hon. Earl of Marchmont. The right hon. Earl of Macclesfield. P. R. S. The right hon. Earl Marefchal, The right hon. Lady Mansfield. Righ. hon. and rev. Bifliop of Meath. The Laird of Mc Far lane. Dr. McFarlane, of Edinburgh. Dr. McFarlane, jun. of Edinburgh. William McFarlane, Efq; of Aymouth. Robert Mackye, Efq; of London, 4 fets. Ebenezer McCulloch of Edinburgh. Norman McLeod of McLeod, Eiq; Library of Manchefter. Robert McNair of Falkirk. "Robert McQm.en, Efq; advocate. Arthur Maifler, merchant of St. Peters-buig. George Mc'Dougal of Maker (Ion, Efq; Sir William Maxwell of Springkcll,Bart. Sir James McDonald, Bart. John Major, Efq; of London. Marks, Efq; of London. "Lafcells Metcalf, Efq; of London. Robert Menzies of Coulterhall, Efq; Michael Miller, Efq; of Briftol. John Mifenor, Efq; of London. Vol. I. Richard Milles, Efq. John Mills of London. George Middleton of Seaton, Efq; John Moor of Falkirk. Dr. Mounfey, late director general of medicine in Ruflia. Sir Roger Moftyn, Bart. John Moor, Efq; rear-admiral. Henry Moor, Efq; of Jamaica. David Moncrief, Efq; deputy remembrancer of the exchequer, Scotland. James Montgomery, Efq; one of his Majefly's follicitors general. James Moor, L. L. D. profelfor of Greek in the Univerfity of Glafgow. William Murray of Touchadam, Efq; Ja. Murray, Efq; John Muirhead, Efq; of Gorbals. The reverend Dr. Mufgrave, provoft of Chr-ilYs-coll. Oxford. Henry Muilman, Efq; of London. Monro of Auchinbowie, Efq; Mr. George Muirhead, profeflbr of Humanity in the Univerfity of Glafgow. James Mathias, Efq; of London. James Murray of Abercairn, Efq; Anthony Murray of Dollerie, Efq. Alexander Munro, merchant in Glafivow. More of Leckie, Efq; N. The right hon. Lord Napier. The rev. Mr. William Nairn, M. A. of Poole. John Napier of Bolikinrene, Efq; Lt. Colonel William Napier, 2 fets. Mifs Jenny Napier. Doctor Napier of London. Sir James Naifmith of Poffo, Bart. Robert Nettleton, Efep, governor of the Ruflia company. Nathaniel Newberry, merchant of London, 2 fets. John Nourfe, King's bookfeller, Lond. b James the SUBS James Norman, Efq; London. Henry Norris, Efq; London. Wm. Northey, Efq; Grovefnor-fquare. Lt. John Napier of Craiganet. Houfton Stewart Nicolfon of Carnock, Efq; O. The right hon. Earl of Orford. Archibald Ogilvie of Rothemay, Efq; Charles O Mara, Efq; of Dublin. Leak Okcover of Okeovcr, Efq; Staf- ford-fhirc. George Cuichterlony, Efq. of London. Library of C. C. C. Oxford. P. The right hon. Lord Chief Juftice Sir Charles Pratt. David Paterfon of Bannockburn, Efq; Robert Patrick, Efq; of Dublin. Doctor Park of Kilmarnock. Thomas Penn, Efq; of London, 6 fets. The right hon. Lady Juliana Penn. Mifs Penn. Richard Penn, Efq; Rev. ftoger Pettyward, D. D. Richard Pennant, Elq; George Peters, Efq; of London. Mrs. Pickard of Edmonton. William Pickancc of Liverpool. Thomas Phipps, Elq; Charles Pinfold, Efq; ■M. dc PlcfcheoJrF, counfellor to the court of Ruflia. Thomas Plummer, Efq; Honourable I label la Powktt. David Powell, jun. Efq; William Palmer of London. R. The moft noble Marquis of Rockingham. The right rev. Zachary, Bifliop of Ro-chefUr. C R I £ E R S. David Rae, advocate. Robert Ramfay, m. d. Edinburgh. John Ramfay of Ouchtertyre, Efq; James Robertfon, Efq; Charle> Rogers, Efq. F. R. S. William Roberton, merchant of Glaf- Robert Rollo, fheriff-clerk of Clackman ■ nan. Lt. Colonel William Roy. The rev. Mr. James Roy. John Lockhart Rofs of Balnagown, Efq; 3 fets. Andrew Reed, Efq; of London. John Rcnton of Blackader, Efq; James Reed of Briftol. Jeremiah Redwood, Efq; Sir Thomas Reeve, Knt. John Van Rixtel, Efq; of London. David Rofs, advocate. Archibald Rofs, merchant St. Petersburg. Dr. William Robertfon, Edinburgh, Rufli, Efq; Alexander RufTel of Stirling. Archibald Roberton, jun. of Bedlay,Efq; Lonentz Baftian Ritter, merchant, St. Peterfburg. Jacob Rigail, merchant, St. Peterfburg, Mr. James Rannie, merchant in Lehh. S. Her grace the Dutchefs dowager of So-merfet. The right hon. the Earl of Suffolk. The right hon. Earl of Sutherland. The right hon. Lord Vifcount Spencer. The right hon. Lady Viicountefs Spencer. Honourable George Sinclair of Wood-hall, fenator of the College of Juftice. Honourable Mrs. Southwell. Sir William Saint Quintyi, Bart. Andrew THE SUBS Andrew Saint Clare of Hermifton, Efq; Robert Salifbury, Efq; of London*. Henry Saxby, Efq; of London. Sir John Sebright, Bart. Hugh Seton of Touch, Efq; Roger Sedgewick, M. D. of Manchefter. Doftor Schomberg. George L. Scott, Efq; commiiTioncr of excife. Henry Shiffher of Pontrylas, Efq; Mrs. Shiffher of Pontrylas. Walter Sharp, Efq; of London, 3 lets. Mrs. Shaw of Chifhunt. Henry Sharp of Bermondfey, Efq; William Sloane, Efq; of London. Morgan Smith, Efq; of Briftol. Charles Smith, Efq; of Bulogn. John Smith of Buchanan. John Smith, fellow commoner of Magdalen college, Oxford. William Somervil, writer in Glafgow. Jofeph South, Efq; Edward Southwell, Efq; James Sperling, Efq; of London. Charles Spcnce, Efq; London. Harry Spencer, Efq; John Ruffel Spence, Efq; John Spencer, Efq; Archibald Stirling of Keir, Efq; Sir James Stirling of Glorat, Bart. Lady Stirling of Glorat, 2 fets. Sir William Stirling of Ardoch, Bart. James Stirling of Caldcr, Efq; Alexander Stirling, Efq; of St. Albans. William Stirling, Efq; Tho. Stephens, merchant in St. Petersburg. Andrew Stalker, bookfeller, Glafgow. William Stewart, writer in Edinburgh. Sir Archibald Stuart of Caftlemilk. John Struther, brewer in Glafgow. George Stonehoufe, Efq; of Standon, Wilts. Dr. Charles Stuart of London, 3 fets. C R I B E K S. Alexander Sutherland of Woodend, Efq; Daniel Swaine of Laverington, Efq; Cambridge-fhi're. The rev. Mr. James Stodart, minifter of Kirkintilloch. SwarTham Book-club. Dr. Matthew Stuart, Prof. M. Edinb. Samuel Swallow, Efq; conful general in Ruffia. John Syme, writer to the Signet. Walter Syme, merchant at Carron fhore. Walter Sim, merchant in Bothkennar. William Steel, merchant in Glafgow. Dr. Walter Stirling of Stirling. Captain Thomas Stirling. William Stirling of Northfide, Efq; James Saffre, merchant in St.Petersburg. Mr. James Simfon, merchant in Glafg. Adam Smith, L. L. D. profeiFor of Moral Philofophy in the Univerfity of Glafgow. James Stirling, Efq; agent for the Scots> mining company at Leadhills. Alexander Stevenfon, Efq; clerk to the commiffariot, Glafgow. T. The right hon. Lord Torphichen. John Thornton, Efq; of London, 2 fets. Sir Peter Thompfon of Poole, Knt. Andrew Thornfon, Efq; of London. John Thomfon, Efq; of Edinburgh. Alexander Thomfon of Edinburgh. Peter Thompfon of Bermondfey, Efq; Capt. William Thornton. Sir Clement Ti afford of Dun ton-hall. Lady Trafford of Dunton-hall. Robert Tracy, Efq; The rev. Dr. Tracy, fellow of All-fouls, Oxford. Henry Tuckficld. Godfrey Thornton, merchant, St. Petersburg. U. Robert Urie, printer at Glafgow. b 2 V. Mrs. Mrs. Vandewall of Greenwich. Honourable James Veitch of Elliock, fenator of the College of Juftice. James Vere, fen. John Vere of Stonebyres, Efq; Mifs Vere of Stonebyres. William Vigor of Taplow, Efq; Mrs. Vigor of Taplow. Benjamin Vigor, Efq; Allen Vigor, of Manchefter. North Vigor, M. D. W. The right hon. Earl of Winchelfea. The right hen. Lord Willoughby of Par ham, F. R. S. The right hon. Lady Charlotte Went- worth. His excellency Count de WoronfofF, 3 fets. William Wallace of Cairnhill, Efq; John Watcot, Efq; Dr. William Watfon, F. R. S. John Watfon, merchant in St, Petersburg. Joel Watfon, Efq; Capt. George Wauchope. Rev. John Warden of Edinburgh. John Weyland, Efq; of London. Wensbry of Wisbitch. Taylor White, Efq; of London. George Whateby, Efq; of London. Charles White, furgeon of Manchefter*. F. R. S. Robert Whyt, furgeon at Falkirk. Robert Willock, bookfeller, London, 6 fets. Sir Rowland Winn of Noftel, Bart. Thomas Winn, Efq; of Acton. John Wilkinfon, Efq; John Wills, Efq; of London. Ralph Willet, Efq; of Marly. Thomas Withington of Manchefter.. John Wilfon, writer at Glafgow. Baron Wolff. John Wright. Major White. Y. The Right hon. Sir Win. York, Bart., William Young, Efq; of Standlinch^ Wilts. Robert Young, merchant at Edinburgh. THE PRE- THE PREFACE- jn my youth I had a ftrong defire of feeing foreign parts; to fatisfy which inclination, after having obtained, from fome perfons of worth, recommendatory letters to Do6lor areskine, chief phyfician and privy-counfellor to the Czar peter the Firft, I embarked ae london, in the month of July 1714, on board the prosperity of ramsgate, Capt. emerson, for st. petersburg. On my arrival there, I was received by Doctor areskine in a very friendly manner; to whom I communicated THE PREFACE, municated my intentions of feeking an opportunity of vifiting fome parts of asi a, at leait thofe parts which border on russia. Such an opportunity foon prefent-cd itfelf, on occafTon of an embafly, then preparing, from his Czarifh Majefty to the Sophy of Persia, Artemy petrovich valensky, a gentleman of a family of diftincrion, and a captain of the guards, was appointed ambaffador by his Majefty. Upon his nomination, he applied to Doctor areskine to recommend a perfon, who had fome knowledge in phy-fic and furgery, to go, in his fuite, in the embafly. As I had employed fome part of my time in thofe ftu-dies, the Doctor recommended me; which he did in fo cordial a manner, as produced to me, from the ambaffador, many marks of friendfhip and regard, which fubfifted not only during the journey, but alfo continued, from that time, to the end of his days. The Doctor, at the fame time, recommended me to the college of foreign affairs at st. Petersburg, by whom I was engaged in the fcrvice of peter the Firft. Having acquainted the reader with the manner of my entering on the travels, which are the principal fubject of the following meets, I (hall take the liberty to fay, that I have, through the whole, given the ob- fervations; THE PREFACE, fervations, which then appeared to me worth remarking, without attempting to embellifh them, by taking any of the liberties of exaggeration, or invention, frequently imputed to travellers. I took notes of the fubject of the following trea-tife, by way of diary, from time to time, during the courfe of my travels ; intending nothing further, at that time, than to keep them as helps to my memory, that I might, as occafion offered, communicate, in converfation with my friends, what I had obferved worth remarking; and that I might be capable of giving information to others, who might be defirous of it, on their being to make the fame journies. About four years ago, fpending fome days at the houfe of a Right Honourable, and moll: honoured, Friend, the fubject of my travels took up a great part of our converfation; during which, upon his enquiring occafionally, whether I had taken any notes of the places, &c. through which I had palTed in my feveral journies, and, upon my anfwering in the affirmative, he was pleafcd to take fome pains to engage me to promife that I would collect my notes and obfervations, and form them into journals, as complete as the time clapfed would admit, and communicate them to the world. THE PREFACE. It was not without reluctance that I fet about this work; which, had I thought it worth the publics acceptance and perufal, I would have done long ago. Such as it is, I now offer it to them; and flatter myfelf, (with hopes at lealr,) that the plainnefs of ftyle, in which.it is wrote, will be of no prejudice to it with candid readers, who may find in it fome things new, and of which they would chufe to be informed. In regard to the tranflation of Mr. de lange's Journal, I have given it for two reafons; firlt, becaufe it continues the negociation begun by Mr. de ismay-jloff, in the courfe of which Mr. de lange fur-nifhes the reader with a diftinct detail of the manner of tranfacting affairs with the minifters of flate, of their chicaneries, &c. at the court of pekin. Secondly, becaufe I do not apprehend it hath ever appeared in the English language; at lealt, I have made what enquiries I could, to find if it had been translated, which have been all fruitlefs. As I well knew the worthinefs and integrity of Mr. de lange, and am fully perfuaded that his Journal was genuine, though perhaps obtained furreptitioufly by the editor, I have clofed the tranflation with the end of Mr. de lange's Journal, on his arrival at selingin- sky THE PREFACE. sky on the frontiers of Siberia; having omitted an addition to it, made by the editor, of the trade and monies of china; concerning which, the editor, when he enters upon it, acquaints the reader that he had not the means neceflary for fufficient information. For the reft, the tranflation is juft, as may be feen by comparing it with the original. antermony, 7 October ift, 1762. $ JOHN BELL. Vol. I. c THE CONTENTS VOLUME FIRST. A Journey from st. Petersburg in Russia, to Ispahan in persia. Page I Chat. I. From St. Petersburg to Cazan. 2 Chap. II. Occurrences during our flay at Cazan; Our journey ; thence to Aftrachan. 18 Chap. III. Occurrences during our (lay at Aflrachan ; Our journey thence to Shamachy. 36 Chap. IV. Occurrences during our flay at Shamachy ; Our journey thence to Tauris. 60 Chap. V. Occurrences during our flay at Tauris; Our journey thence to Ifpahan. 7 6 Chap. VI. Occurrences during our flay at Ifpahan. 97 Chap. VII. From Ifpahan to Shamachy; Occurrences during our flay there. 1 2 9 Chap.VIII.From Shamachy to St. Petersburg. 1 42 A Journey from st. Petersburg in Russia, to pekin in china. 155 Chap. I. From St. Petersburg to Tobolsky, the capital o£ Siberia. 157 Chap. II. Occurrences at Tobolsky; Observations on the Kalmucks, &c. and journey continued to Tomsky. 1 84 Chap. Ill, Occurrences at Tomsky; Obfervations on the Tzu- limm Tartars, &c. and journey continued to Elimsky. 7 09 Chap. THE CONTENTS. Chap. IV. Obfervations on Iakutsky and Kamtzatsky, &c. Jour- Page ney continued to Irkutsky; and occurrences there. 235 Chap. V. From Irkutsky, crofs the Lake Baykall, to Selingin- sky; Some account of the Kutuchtu, &c. 257 Chap. VI. Occurrences at Selinginsky; Several parties of hunting; and journey continued to Saratzyn, the boundary between the Ruffian and Chinefe territories. 283 Chap. VII. From palling the Saratzyn, and entering the Chinefe territories, to our arrival at the wall of China. 308 Chap.VIII.From the wall of China to Pekin; Our entry into that city. 3 3 6 VOLUME SECOND. Chap. IX. Occurrences at Pekin, audience of the ambafTador, &c. 1 Chap. X. Continuation of occurrences at Pekin, &c. 29 Chap. XI. Occurrences at Pekin continued, the feftival held at court on the new year, &c. 59 Chap. XII. Some account of the prefent Emperor of China, the Chinefe wall, Sec. 87 Chap.XIII.Our departure from Pekin; Occurrences, Sec. during our journey back towards Mofco. 11 3 Chap. XIV. Our arrival at the town of Surgute; Our journey thence to Mofco; Some account of the creature called mammon. 147 Journal of mr. de lange. i6q A Journey to derbent. 323 A Journey to Constantinople. 373 t 66 65 7o IIIW"*"™* * "~HIIB 90 Ho ......lujiami ranmiuL- ..-iiuiiunu : /20 ^5 Lena h It .Sollikams] 7fl viidAet,yet 11 * * t * I t 11 *8* m «4i 55 J vf Tobolsk Mar. a. f e 4 V 2?A? * 1* f* t t < 'erojei.% Ml 4*41 o4 lata 4 % 111 HI 3>St * 1 • 1 t 4 lit A MAP of the ROJ/TE Between Mo^co stPekin ^ExhthitmgjhcRoad Travelled hytht\ X,ere tin* k**"1? Lf OFF VAS$lLlCH I^MAYLOFF. //if dears, tftp>J7%% &>iym or TtV^of Bufsi* : /.'■ m '• I. - Fort E Ka mgu Sayan sk01 Mw1 All k fcheua'Jfaial^t HID nil'-. .,: I , ll ^ 1 v\*£./7,'.«/ Arc////, whet to. Fot -r , V^3^"""*" ^iTitc ho ufflTr" Ore afsia n Mo utt . clifigirwky /trrJk" Gei oi\ qia Caipi )ian on Sea *font of ^ %^fV;i!VJ) th Ok China Qachoun W*l>5k' » lv Gourkaht »rb Wellsv*. v« < , Karp»rtou -WeUS"k"y jioulfWlil' vvHIS \yctnti \ well? FvhouUit %v?lni,-.> jMinpei/ vtcllx Kurc unt i, La I. | ^3 ^KlJiniwW^ ss 60 25 mil.....11 ——luBiuiil —nummx------ Hiuiiiuii_r: __tmnijn "Twnnn^z^nnimimL _ „jjuuuhi job n u& tz5 JOURNEY from ^PETERSBURG I N RUSSIA, t o ISPAHAN IN PERSIA, WITH AN EMBASSY FROM his IMPERIAL MAJESTY, PETER THE FIRST, TO THE SOPHY OF PERSIA, SHACH HUSSEIN, ANNO MDCCXV, Vol. I. A NAMES OF THE PRINCIPAL PERSONS WHO COMPOSED THE TRAIN OF THE AMBASSADOR, ARTEMII PETROVICH VALENSKY, v i z. GREGORY CHRISTOPHER VENIGERKIND, Secretary. JAOJJES DE VILLETTE, Captain Engineer. MATPHE PARFILICH KARTZOFF, ^ ADRIAN IVANOVICH LOPUCHIN, iGentlemcn of the V Embafly. The AUTHOR of this Journal, J HYLARION, a Monk, prfeft. VASSILE KURDEFFSKY, ALEXIE TULKATZOFF, ^Interpreters. DEMETRY PETRITZ, J VASSILE SHADAYOFF, 7Clerks, or ALEXIE BUCHTARYOFF, 3 Writers. With many others; viz. A band of tnufic, confifting of trumpets, kettledrums, violins, hautboys, &c. carpenters, fmiths, taylors, valets and footmen,, amounting in all to above one hundred perfons; befides a troop of twenty-five dragoons for our efcort, from astrachan to isfahan. A JOURNEY FROM ST PETERSBURG t O ISPAHAN-CHAPTER I. From ST. PETERSBURG to CAS AN. ^~^N the fifteenth of July, 1715, I fet out from st. Petersburg, in company with MeiTieurs venigerkind, de villette, and kurdeffsky. That city, which has fince grown fo confiderable, was then in its infancy, having been founded, ten or eleven years before, by that truly great man peter the Firft, to whom no undertaking feemcd difficult. St. Petersburg is fituated in fixty degrees north latitude, partly on the continent of ingria and carelia, and partly on different idands formed by the river neva which difcharges itfelf, by four channels, into the gulf of Finland, a little be- A 2 low 4 A JOURNEY chap. i.low the city. It is defended by a ftrong caflle, built 1715* with ftone and brick, inaccemble to (hips of force, there being- but eight feet water on the bar. As the Czar had determined to form a city all at once, and not to truft to time for the growth of a place which he had chofen for the feat of government, he affembled inhabitants from every province of his empire, and allured ftrangers from moft parts of Europe; fo that the place was even well peopled, and had not the appearance of a city fo lately founded. The adjacent country is generally covered with woods, confiding of various kinds of pines, birch, alder, afpinc, and other trees natural to the northern climates. To the fouthward, efpecially along the fhore towards peterhoff, the country in fummer is very pleailint, with country-feats, corn-fields, and meadows interfperfed. The river neva falls out of the LADOGA Lake at slusselburg, a ftrong caftle, about fixcy vcrfi above st. Petersburg. It is a noble ftream of clear, wholcfpme water, with this peculiar quality that TO ISPAHAN. 5 that it is feldom muddy. It contains a great va-cHAP. I. riety of excellent fifh, which fupply-the market all ^7^5^ the year, and is navigable to the Ladoga by flat-bottomed veffels. The woods on each fide are flored with game; fuch as hares, which are white as fnow in winter, and turn brown in fummer; wild-deer, bears and wolves; the laft are fo bold that 1 have known them, in the night-time, carry off a dog from a man s foot, in crofTing the river on the ice. There are alfo elks about the Lake of Ladoga. As for wildfowl, few places can boaft of greater variety. The chief are thefe; the urhaan, called in frence-i coql'unoge; this bird is black, with beautiful red ftreaks about its head and eyes. The cock is about the fi/x of a turkey; the hen is lefs and of a brown colour. The heath-cock, in French cog de bniiere, of the fame colour and marks as the former, but not fo laree. The partridge, which the French caXLgifinot, Thefe three kinds perch on trees; and in winter feed on fir -tops, and on crane-berries, which thcyfcrape from under the fnow. There is alfo found here the common English partridge; it is however but rare. The: 6 A JOURNEY chap. i.The tarmachan, a bird well known in the northern I7I5- parts of England, and in Scotland, are here in plenty. As foon as the ice goes off in the fpring, vail flocks of water-fowl come hither from the Caspian Sea, and other fouthem regions, to hatch. Thefe confift of fwans, geefe, a variety of wild-ducks, teal, &c. Snipes and wood-cocks breed here, many of which are catched by the Russians, who are excellent fifhers and fportfmen. From st. Petersburg we directed our courfe along the weflern bank of the neva, till we came to the brick-works. The weather being very hot we halted here a few hours, and in the evening purfued our journey to a fmall river which falls into the neva, about thirty verft above st. Petersburg. At this place we let our horfes go to grafs, and lay in our waggons till the morning, but were much mo-left cd by the gnats and muskitos. Next morning we continued our journey and paf-fed a village called ishora, where the inhabitants fpeak a language, and wear a drefs different from TO ISPAHAN. the Russian, though they profefs the fame greek chap. religion. It is probable they are the defcendants of 1715 a colony, formerly brought hither, from fome of the provinces of livonia. Next day we came to the volchova, a great river ifTuing from a lake called ilmen, not far dif-tant from the city of novocorod, which difcharges itfelf into the ladoga. Here we left our horfes, and, putting our waggons and carriages on board barques, went up the river, ufing oars or fails, by turns, as necemty obliged us. The banks of the volchova are covered with many villages, and fruitful corn-fields, intermixed with natural woods. We found, as we went along, plenty of filh, and country provifions. The icjth, we arrived at >;ovogorod velikoi, or the great novogorod, fo called to dillmtruifh it from many leffer towns of the fame name. This city (lands about two hundred verfl: fouth eail from Petersburg. The volchova runs throueh the middle of it, over which there is a wooden bridge defended by a fortrefs. There are many well built churches in the town; and a great number of mona- fteries 8 A JOURNEY chap, i.fteries in the neighbourhood, pleafantly fituated, 1715- which form a very agreeable profpeci. It was formerly a place of great note, but is now much decayed. Here is an archbifhop who enjoys a very confiderable revenue. July 2 2d, having put our carriages on board another barque, we failed up the river to the Lake il-men ; and, leaving it on our right hand, entered a fmall river called msta, and at night came to bru-nitz, a large village, thirty verfl: from novogorod. Here we difcharged our boats; and, having procured horfes, we proceeded next morning thirty verfl: to the village of zaytzoff, from thence to krasny-stankv, and then to krestitsky, where we changed horfes, with which we travelled to yashilbitza. Here beinn the valday-hills, which run to a great diftancc from eaft to weft-, but are only about twenty or thirty verft broad. They are mollly covered with wood. We came next to the town of val-day ; this place is pleafantly fituated at the foot of the hills, adjoining to a large lake of the fame name, in the middle of which is an ifland, whereon flands a monaftery. The country in the neighbourhood TO ISPAHAN. 9 hood is hilly, but not mountainous, exhibiting a chat. i. beautiful variety of plain and rifing grounds. \^J^\J The next ftage is zimogory, and after that vish-noy-volotzoke. Here is a canal of confidcrable extent, cut by peter the firft, which opens a communication, by water, from st. Petersburg to all the places on the volga, and many other parts of russia*, and proves a great encouragement to trade, and very advantageous to the merchant, in fuch ex-tcnfive tracts of land. Next day we came to torshoak, a fmall town. The 29th we arrived at tweer, a populous and trading town, defended by a caftlc; it is the capital of a province, and a bilhop's feat. It derives its name from a rivulet in the neighbourhood, called tweertza, and Hands on the banks of the famous river volga, The volga, known formerly by the name of rha, has its fource not far to the wcftward of tweer. At a fmall diitance from the fource of the volga, two other noble rivers take their rife; the Dnieper, or borysthenes, which runs into the Vol. I. B black io A JOURNEY chap. i.black Sea at otzakof; and the duina, which falls 17l5- into the Baltic at riga. The volga, after vifiting in its courfe to the fouth eaft many fruitful countries, difcharges itfclf into the Caspian Sea, about (ixty verft below a-strachan; and, in all this long courfe, there is not a fingle cataract to interrupt the navigation. As to fifh, no river in the world can afford greater variety, better of their kind, nor in larger quantities Here we tailed the fterlett, a filh much and generally cflecmed, it is of the fturgeon kind, but ieldom grows above thirty inches long, It is found in other rivers of Rissn; but the volga produces the belt and in greater! plenty. The caviare, or fpawn, is very good to eat raw, after being cleaned and dref-fed. I never could find a iilberman who had feen their fry. The lame day, having changed horfes, we proceeded on our journey to gorodna, a large village, on the weft bank of the volga. From this place is feen a charming landskip, containing a full view . of the windings of that river. From hence, after palling many villages, we came to TO ISPAHAN. I to kleen a pretty large town, and the lad: ftage to chap, mosco. The country between kleen and mosco 17*5 is pleafant, having many tufts of wood, of unequal bignefs, fcattered among the corn-fields, that contribute to beautify the country, which had no great appearance of fertility. About feven verft from mosco we palTed through a large village, called fse-swatzky, inhabited by Chriftians of the Eaftern church, named Georgians*, their ancient country was gurgistan, now one of the northerly provinces of Persia; they were driven from their native country by the perfect!tion of the Persians; and flying into Russia, they there found an hofpitable reception, many of them being employed in the fervice of the Emperor. From this place there is a view of the city mosco, and, at this diftance, few cities in the world make a liner appearance; for it (lands on a rifing ground, and contains many (lately churches and mo-nafteries, whofe fteeples and cupolas are generally covered either with copper gilt, or tin plates, which mine like gold and iilver in the fun. Auguft 2d we arrived at the city of mosco. I B 2 have 12 A JOURNEY chap. i.have omitted the names and diftances of many in-l7l5- confiderablc places, through which we palTed, let it fuffice, that the diflance between st. Petersburg and mosco is about feven hundred and thirty verft; and although the hot weather detained us long on the road, in winter the journey is eaflly performed; with fledges in three days. On the ioth of Auguft, my friends, MefTieurs lange and girvan, arrived here in their way to cjiina, on a mcffage from the Czar to the Emperor of china. The firft was a swede, and the other a phyfician, from the county of air in Scotland. We flayed in mosco about three weeks, having many things to prepare for fo long a journey. This city, (landing on an eminence, as was already obfer-ved, commands an extenfivc profpeel of a fine plain country, adorned with woods and clumps of trees, monaflcries and gcntlemens feats. The river mos-co runs almoft through it, which, emptying itfclf into the volga, preferves a communication with all the fouthern parts of Russia, and even with Persia. From thefe advantages in fituation, this place is very TO ISPAHAN. 1 very convenient for trade, which flouriihes here to chap. a confiderablc degree. 17 1 5 The city is fortified with a ftrong brick-wall, called beligorod, having cmbrafures and a ditch. Within this is another wall, called kitaycorod. This laft inclofes what is called the crimlin, in which is the old imperial palace, compounded of a number of buildings^ added to one another at different times. Some of the apartments are very fpaci-ous; particularly that called c ran avita pal lata,, where audience was given to foreign ambafladorsy adjoining to the palace are many edifices, where were held the courts of juftice. Here alfo (lands a lofty tower, wherein is hung the largeft bell in the world, called ivan veleke, weighing about ten thoufand poods; which, reckoning each pood at near thirty-fix pounds English, will amount to about an hundred and fixty tun weight. Bcfidcs thefe, there is a cathedral church, and an arfenal, well furnifhed with brafs cannon, mortars and other warlike (lores. Beyond the brick-walls, already mentioned, there is an earthen one, of great circumference, round the whole; 14 A JOURNEY chap. i.whole; and without this the fuburbs alfo are very 1715* extenlive. The great plenty of provifions in this place fur-prized me not a little; I found here fruits of different kinds, which I did not expect, particularly excellent melons, and arboozes, or water-melons. Auguft the 2 i ft we ihipped our baggage on board fix fmall barques, adapted by their construction, either for fails or oars, as fhould be moft convenient, and fell down the river. The ambaffador only remained at mosco waiting for fome difpatches from court. In the evening we paffed koluminska, a village pleafantly fituated on the fouth fide of the mosco river, near which is a large country-houfc, with gardens, and orchards, belonging to the court. October 3d we came to column a, a fortified town. Next day, the wind being favourable, we hoifted fail, and, after going about three verft, entered the river oka, into which the mosco falls and lofes its name. The oka rifes in the ukrain, and runs to the foutheaft; it contains a great quantity of water, and is navigable very far up the country. The oth we arrived at pereslave-resansky, a large TO ISPAHAN. I large town to the left, fituated about a verft from chap. the river ok\, it is the feat of an archbifhop, and l7l5 the country around is very fruitful in corn. The 16th we came to kassimova, formerly the refidencc of a tartar Prince, but the family is now converted to Christianity, and retains only the old name of k \ssimofsky czarfattz. The place is at prcfent inconfulcrable. There are dill here a few MAHOMETAN tartahs who are allowed the free exercife of their religion, and have a fmall oratory. I accompanied our interpreter to vilit one of them, an old acquaintance of his. He was a very decent man; we faw a hoife newly killed, which they intended to eat. They prefer this kind of food to beef, and invited us to fhare their repaft, which we declined, pretending we had not time. The 17th we left kassimova, and the 21ft arrived at murum, a pretty large town, and a bifhop's. fee. The country produces plenty of corn. About this place there are a few idolatrous tartars, who live in little dirty cottages, thinly fcattcred. They are a very ftmple and harmlefs. people. How or when they fettled here is not known. The 16 A JOURNEY chap. i. The 2 2d we palled a large village, called paulo I7I5- vo-perevoz, the property of Prince tzerhaskoy. Its fituation is on the fouth fide of the river. Here the banks are much higher than above this place. We came the 23d to nishna-novogorod, a great town, defended by a caftle, Handing on the high banks of the oka, oppofite to where it lofes itfelf in the volga, which now forms a mighty ftream. The following day we dined at the governors, where I faw General creutz, and fevcral other Swedish officers, who had been taken prifoners at poltava, and lived here at large. The 25th we failed from nishna, and foon entered the volga. The wind being northerly we run along at a great rate; but in the night the river was fuddenly filled with floating ice, which drove us on a fand bank, where we lay aground that night and all the next day; however, after much labour and fatigue, we got clear, although the floating ice (till continued. At laft the wind changed to the fouth, and the weather turned milder, which enabled us to purfue our voyage. We TO ISPAHAN. l7 We next paiTed vasily-gorod, and then kosmo- chap.i. df.minnsko, fmall towns, both on the right. ^J^Kj November 3d we came to zaback-zar, a pretty large town, on the fame hand. In this country are caught the bcfl and largeft faulcons in the world, much efteemed for their ftrength and beauty; particularly by the turks and Persians, who purchafe them very dear. The Russians take few young hawks from the neft, preferring the old ones, which they man very dextroufly to fly at fwan, goofe, crane, or heron. The tartars fly them at antelopes and hares. I have feen them take a wild-duck out of the water, when nothing of her could be perceived but the bill, which Hie was obliged to put up for air. Some of them are as white as a dove. The manner of catching them is very Ample. They erect a tall pole upon a hill, free from wood, on a bank of the river, near which is placed a day-net; under the net fome fmall birds arc fattened by a cord, which the hawk-catcher pulls to make them flutter, on the appearance of the hawk, who obferving his prey firft perches on the pole, and when he (loops to fcize the birds, the pcrfon, who is Vol. I. C con- 18 A JOURNEY chap. i. concealed by the bullies, draws the net and covers l7l5* him. The 4th, we paiTed kay-gorod, and the 5th,. swiiassky, the iirft on the left and the other on the right hand. This evening we arrived, before the town of cazan, and hauled our boats into the mouth of a fmall river, from which the town has its name, called cazanka. We intended to continue our voyage directly to astrachan; but, before we had made the neceflary preparations at cazan, the winter fct in, and on the 6th of September the volga was filled with floating ice. This determined us to winter at that place. We therefore unloaded the boats, and came to the city, where we were hofpital ly received by the governor. CHAPTER II. Occurrences Miring our jlay at cazan; Our journey thence ta astrachan. ^^AZAN is about feven hundred and thirty five verft from mosco by land, but much more by water. It is fituated about five verft to the north of the TO ISPAHAN, the volga, on a high bank of the rivulet cazanka, chap which is navigable from this place to the river. The town is ftrong by fituation, and defended by a caftlc, fortified with walls of brick. Within the citadel are the cathedral church, the palaces of the archbifhop and governor, and the apartments for the courts of juftice. The town is fenced with a ditch and pali-fades. The fuburbs are inhabited chiefly by mechanics, except a ftreet or two polTeiTed by Mahometan tartars, the pofterity of the ancient natives. They live very decently, have the free exercife of their religion, and many other privileges. Some of them are very rich by the trade they carry on to turkey, Persia, and other places. Cazan was anciently the capital of a part of tar-Tary, and the feat of government, where the royal family refided. It was taken from the tartars by Czar ivan vasiloviz, in the year fifteen hundred and fifty two, in confequence whereof an extenfive country to the fouthward, eafily fell into his hands. The conquered Princes were converted to Chriftiani-ty, and had lands affigned them in their own country, where the family (till fubfifts. C 2 The 20 A JOURNEY chap. ii. The country adjacent is very pleafant and fertile; ^J^L^ producing wheat, rye, barley, oats, and feveral kinds of pulfe. The woods to the fouth and weft confift of ftately oaks, fufficient to fupply all the navies in the world; and from hence st. Petersburg is abundantly furniihcd with timber, for all the purpofcs of {hip-building, by an eafy conveyance, all the way by water. The woods to the north and eaft, which are of prodigious extent, confift of trees of all forts. In the fpring, when the fnow melts, the volga overflows all the low grounds, fometimes to a prcat diftance; the confequence is the fame with that produced in egypt, by the inundations of the nile; for the mud, carried down by the ftrcam, fertilizes the country to a great degree; fo that on the iflands in the volga, fome whereof are very large, and overgrown with tall trees, I have found plenty of excellent afparagus. Befides the fterlctt there are plenty of fturgeon, and a ii(h about the fize and near the fhape of the largeft fahnon, which is very delicious, and, for the -whitcnefs of its flefh, is called the white fifth. The TO ISPAHAN. 21 The woods afford abundance of game. And in chap. h. the fpring great numbers of water-fowl come hither ^v^xj to hatch, from the Caspian fea. At c a z a n we found good beef, mutton and tame poultry, and provifions of all kinds very reafonable. There is here a confiderablc manufactory of Russia leather; the hides here being reckoned the bed in the empire. Great quantities of this leather are exported to leghorn, and other parts of europe, and may be confidercd among the ftaplc commodities of this country. The ftrong fmell of this leather is acquired in the duelling; for inftead of oil, common in other places, they ufe a kind of tar, extracted by fire from the bark of the birch-tree; which ingredient the russes call deuggit, and which tree is here in greater abundance than in other parts of the World; and then they dye them with logwood. Befides the idolatrous tartars, formerly mentioned, there are two pretty numerous tribes called the tzerimish and tzoowash, they fpeak a language quite different from the Mahometan TAR-tars in thefe parts, who ufe a corrupted dialect of the Arabic. The Mahometans likewife have fome leant" 22 A JOURNEY chap.ii. learning; but the tzerimish and tzoowash have l^i^' none. They have a tradition among them, that in former times they had a book of religion; but, as no body could read it, a cow came and fwallowed it. They pay great veneration to a bull. From whence they came is unknown; but from their complexion, it is probable they are from as la. They live by agriculture, and feem to be an inoffenfive kind of people. Their huntfmen offer in facrifice, to fome deity, the firfl creature they catch. Hence fome curious men have imagined thefe people part of the ten tribes of the jews, expelled by shalma-nezer. I advance this only as a conjecture, which every reader may follow or not as he pleafes. By accident, I met with an englishman at this place. He was by trade a carpenter, and had been in the Russian fervice; but, being fufpedted of defer ting, he was condemned to banifhment, to this country, for a certain time: and, notwithstanding that was elapfed, the poor man, deprived of all means of afferting his liberty, remained ftill in the fame fituation. He bought a tzerimish wife, from her father, for fix rubles, about thirty fhillings Sterling. TO ISPAHAN. 23 lino-. He brought her to vifit me. She was a wo- chap.ii. man of a chearful and open countenance, and dref- ^JJ^j fed in the manner of her country; of which, for its Angularity, I mall give a fhort dcfcription. Her hair was plaited round her head, in many locks, but that on the back part longer than the reft, at the end of which was tied a taflcl of red filkr and in the middle a fmall round brafs bell; about her head was a fillet fet with fmall (bells, inftead of jewels, and hung all round with (ilver pence; above this was a piece of linen fo artfully plaited, and done up, that it looked like a grenadier's cape; at the top was a filk taffcl, with another brafs bell, which singled as (he turned her head. The reft of her drefs was clean though homely, and the whole feemed becoming enough. I think the cold here is more intenfc than at st. Petersburg, tho' it is five 01 fix degrees farther fouth; in going about three miles from town, in a clear day, I had my face, lingers and toes frozen, riotwithftanding I was not half an hour on the road. J applied the common cure, that is, rubbing the numbed A JOURNEY .11. numbed parts with fnow, which I found perfectly 5- effectual. December 24th our ambaffador arrived from mosco. At the fame time came an exprefs from court, with the important news of the crown Prin-cefs (as fire was commonly called) being fafely delivered of a fon, chriflened by the name of peter. She died however foon after her delivery, univerfally lamented for her many rare and excellent virtues. She was of the wolfeenbuttle family, and wife to alexy petrovitz, the Czarevitz. Befides this young Prince, fhe left a Princefs called Natalia. At cazan we found two Swedish generals, Hamilton and rosen, and many other officers of tli-flincrion, taken prifoners at poltava, who were no farther confined than by having a foldier of the gar-rifon to attend them at their lodgings; and, by the generality of the governor, lived as eafily as circuit^ fiances would allow. Thefe gentlemen were invited to all the public diverfions; and, by their polite an J agreeable behaviour, contributed not a little to ottf patting the winter with a good deal of pleafure, in fuch a remote part of the world. Upon TO ISPAHAN. ~5 Upon the banks of the cazanka (rands a mona- ctiap.il 17 1 ^* ftery, very pleafantly fituated. I accompanied our interpreter to vifit the abbot, who received us in a very friendly manner. He would not however give the interpreter his blefling, nor admit him into the church, during divine fcrvice, unlefs he pulled off his wig. He, profeifing the communion of the greek church, cxpollulated a little with the pried:, telling him that their learned bimops at mosco made no fuch fcruples. The abbot replied, that it was contrary to the rules of difcipline, to allow any man to enter the church with his head covered. The time was now come when we expected to leave cazan. Our boats were ready in the beginning of May, but the volga was dill fo high and rapid, that it was reckoned dangerous to proceed till the flood fublidcd; for the force of the dream frequently carries veffels from their courfe into the woods, where the water retiring, leaves them on dry land. At lad, on the 4th of June, we left c:\z.\n in 1716s eight barques, and rowed down the river with great velocity. In the night one of our boats was driven by the rapidity of the current, among the woods, Vol. I. D and A JOURNEY It. and ftuck faft between two trees, up which the peo-* pic climbed, being apprchenfive of danger. The confequence however was not fo fatal as the circurn* flances were alarming; for the veiled was got off next day with inconfiderablc damage. The 7th we paffed a fmall town called tetoosk, and the 9th sinbirsky, pretty large, and the capital of a province of that name, both to the right. Sin-birsky is defended by a caftlc. Near this place are evident marks of camps and entrenchments, which I was told were the works of the great tartar general, Called T1MYRAK-sack, Or lame timyr, oi* tamerlane, who came to this place with a great army; but being informed of an infurreclion in his own country samarkant, now bucijaria, returned home. The 10th wc put off from sinbirsky with the wind contrary, which greatly retarded our progrefs* We paffed two hills, one of them exhibiting a very beautiful profpect, the other containing mines of ful-phur as clear as amber. We palled alfo a mound of land, of coniidcrable bignefs, in the middle of a plaio TO ISPAHAN, plain, where they fay was buried a famous tartar ch prince called mamay. ' The 20th we arrived at the town of samara, fituated to the left, in a fine plain. The place is but fmall, and fortified only with a ditch and palifades, with wooden towers at proper diftances, mounted with cannon, fufficicnt to defend it againft the in--curhons of the tartars, called kara kalpacks, or black gaps, who inhabit the defcrt to -the eaftward of this place. This tribe of tartars is not very confiderablc, and when their chiefs are united, which feldom happens, can fcarce raife above ten or twelve thoufand men, who are all mounted on horfe-back; becaufe, in their long marches to rob and plunder their neighbours, nothing but horfe could be of any ufe. They live always in tents, with their flocks, removing from place to place, as led by inclination or nccelTity. Their weapons are bows and arrows, and fibres; fome of them ufe fire-arms. While we were at samara, the inhabitants were alarmed with the approach of two or three thoufand of thefe people, who encamped about three miles diftant. From D 2 one 28 A J O U R N E Y chap.it. one of the towers I could plainly fee their camp? l71^- and them riding about it. As they had not artillery the garrifon was in no danger, though fo weak however, that it durfl not at this time attack them-The people were obliged to keep a conftant watch to defend their cattle. This place is reckoned a-bout three hundred and fifty verfl dillant from cazan. The 21 ft, having provided frefh hands for the navigation of our barques, we departed from samara; and, the weather being calm, rowed down the river, which is here very broad. The weftern bank is very high, but the eaftern quite flat. The fields on both fides are very fruitful; but efpecially to the weftV where the grafs grows very high, intermixed with fage, thyme and other herbs; there are alfo fome woods of oaks. A few hundred acres of fuch land would be of great value in England, though it inhere wafte and uncultivated. We came the 25th to the ismeyovi-gory, or seR* pent-hills, fo called from the windings of the rivet at this place; and after pn fling feveral towns, an J many villages, all on the fight, we landed at sarA" TOf* TO ISPAHAN. 29 top, a large town on the fame fide, about eight hun- chap. 11. 17 c) dred and fifty verft from cazan. It is but (lightly L~li fortified with a ditch, wooden walls, and towers mounted with cannon, and defended by a garrifon of regular troops and coflacks. We dined next day with the governor, who entertained us with great variety of provifions, particularly iilh, and very fine mutton. After dinner a party of us crofted the river to vi-fit a great horfe-market, held by the Kalmuck tartars, we faw about five or fix hundred of thefe people, affembled in a field, with a number of horfes all running loofc, except thofe on which the tartars were mounted. The buyers came from different parts of russia. The tartars had their tents pitched along the river fide. Thefe tents are of a conical figure; there are feveral long poles erected, inclining to one another, which are fixed at the top into fomc-thing like a hoop, that forms the circumference of an aperture for letting out the fmoak, or admitting the light; acrofs the poles are laid fome fmall rods, from four to fix feet long, and fattened to them with thongs-: this frame is covered with pieces of felt, madfi: A JOURNEY chap. ii. made of coarfe wool and hair. Thefe tents afford l71^- better fheltcr than any other kind, and are fo contrived as to be fet up, taken down, folded and packed up with great eafe and quicknefs, and fo light that a camel may carry five or fix of them. Where the Chan or any perfon of character rcfides, they are placed in flraight lines. Thefe tartars are ftrong made, flout men, their faces broad, nofes fiattiih, and eyes fmall and black, but very quick. Their drefs is very fimple, confifting of a loofe coat of fheep-skins, tied with a girdle, a fmall round cap, turned up with furr, having a taffel of red filk at the top, leather or linen drawers, and boots, their heads are all fhaved, except a lock behind, which is plaited and hangs down their backs. They are armed with bows and arrows, a fabre and lance, which they manage with great dexterity, acquired by conftant practice from their infancy-They are men of courage and refolution; but much afraid of cannon, which puts their horfes in difor-der. As they are almofl always on horfe-back, they are excellent riders. The drefs of the women differs little from that of TO ISPAHAN. 31 of the men, only their gowns are fomewhat longer chap.ii. than the coats of the men, a little ornamented, and 17^ bordered with party-coloured cloth; they wear earrings, and their hair all plaited in locks. The better fort drefs in filks in fummer. It muft be obferv-tft, for the honour of their women, that they are very honeft and fmccre, and few of them lewd; adultery is a crime fcarce ever heard of. The t uitars make very good and faithful fervants; and the more mildly they are ufed the better they perform their duty; for their wandering unconfined manner of life naturally infpires them with fentimcnts of liberty, and avcrfion, and hatred to tyranny and oppreflion. AH their wealth is their Hocks; like thofe who Wd in the early ages of the woild, they have camels, horfes, cows and ibecp. The horfes are of a good fize for the fiddle, and very hardy; as they run ^ild till they are fometimes fix years old, they are generally headftrong; they are fold at this fair at five to fifteen or fixteen crowns, and the ftrong well lhaped natural pacers much higher. They have few camels, but many dromedaries, who have two protuberances on their backs. Their cows arc of a middle: 32 A JOURNEY chap. ii. middle fize. The fheep large, having broad tails lJ^lJ?' like thofe in turkey, the wool is coarfe, but the mutton very fine. In the preceeding century a Kalmuck prince, named torcott-chorluke, came from alack-ul-la, (which figniiies the fpotted mountains) a country fituated between Siberia on the north, and indiA on the fouth, to the borders of Russia; and brought along with him about fifty thoufand families, oi tents, as they fometimes reckon. In his march weft-ward to the volga, he defeated eyball-utzick, a tartar prince, who lived in tents beyond the rivef enbo. Advancing forward he met three other tartar chiefs, named kitta-haptzay, malebash and etzan, whom he alfo defeated. And at laft fettled to the caft of the volga, under the protection of the Russians. Chorluke had fix fons; dangtzinq. the oldeft fuccecded him in the government, or chan-fhip. The prefent Chan, named aijuka, is the fourth from chorluke, and is much efteemcd in the eaft for his fagacity and juftice. I am informed that the reafon why chorluke left his own country, was a difpute to ispahan. 33 difpute about the fucceflion to the chanftiip. He chapel being eiio-ased on the weakeft fide, and having un-fuccefsfully tried his fortune in the field, at laft took the rcfolution of abandoning his own country altogether. Thefe people are generally called the black i lmucks, though they are not black, but only fwarthy. They have no money, except what they get from the Russians, and their other neighbours, in exchange for cattle; with this they buy meal fomc-timcs but moflly cloth, filk-ftuffs, and other apparel for their women. They have no mechanics, except thofe who make arms. They avoid all labour as the greateu: flavery; their only employment is tending their flocks, managing horfes, and hunting. If they arc angry with a perfon, they willi he may live in one place, and work like a Russian. Their language contains none of thofe horrid oaths common enough in tongues of more enlightened nations. They believe virtue leads to happinefs, and vice to mifcry; when defircd to do what they think wrong, they rcply, in a proverb, 1 Though a knife be (harp it 1 cannot cut its own handle.' Vol. I. E On A JOURNEY On long marches all their provifions confift of cheefe, or rather dried curd, made up into little balls, which they drink, when pounded and mixt with water. If this kind of food fails they have ah ways many fpare horfes, which they kill and eat. They broil or roaft the fiefh before the fire, on pieces of broken arrows, and never eat it raw, as is commonly believed, unlefs compelled by ncceffity. They have indeed large thick pieces of horfc-flefli, fmok-ed or dried in the fun, which they eat; but this cannot properly be called raw. I have tailed fome of it, and thought it not amifs. As to their religion I can fay little; they are downright Heathens, and have many lamas or pricfts, wh° can read and write, and are diflinguilhcd by their yellow habits. Their high pried is called del a* lama, and lives far to the eadward. July id we put off from saratof; and the 2ch 7th and 9th palled the towns of kamoshinka, czA-ritza, and tzorno-yarr, all fituated on the weft bank, and fortified in the fame manner as sarato^ At the firrt of thefe places captain perry, an enc*-lisbman^ with many workmen, was employed if* cutting to ispahan. cutting a canal between the volga and the don, chap 17 1 which would have opened a paiTage to the euxine t lea; but the ground being very hard, and fifing in fome places confiderably above the level, the enter- prife was laid afide, though the diftance was not a- bove fifty verft. From tzorno-yarr to astrachan it is not fafe for Russians to travel on the weftcrn banks of the volga, on account of the cuban tartars, who are their enemies. To the eaft however there is no danger, as the Kalmucks are friends. On the iflands in the volga i obferved great quantities of liquorifii growing wild. The i 3th we arrived fafe at astrachan, and were lodged in the citadel. This place was taken from the tartars, in the year 1554, by the warlike Czar *van vasiliovitz; whereby all his conquefts on the Volga were fecured, and the way prepared for farther extending; the Russian dominion, to the fouth and eaft; which hath been fuccefsfully attempted fmce his time. CHAP. $6 a journey chap. iii. CHAPTER III. Occurrences during our Jlay at astrachan; Our journey thence to shamachy. y^STRACHAN is fituated about fixty verft from the Caspian fea, on an hland in the vol* ga, having the main branch of that river to the weft* ward. It is fortified by a ftrong brick-wall, with embrafures, and fquare towers at proper diftanccs. In the citadel are the cathedral church, governors palace, and the public offices. There is a creek, ot haven, for (hips that navigate the river and the Caspian fea. The houfes are generally built with wood, conveyed in rafts along the river; for the neighbour* ing country produces nothing, being all a barren dc-fcrt. To the weftward there is no water to be found for many miles. The iilands, however, adjacent t^ the town arc very fruitful, and produce cxccUcn grapes, tranfplantcd hither from Persia and othe parts; alfo water-melons, eftecmcd the beft in th world; and various kinds of musk-melons, pcache cherries, pcars^ apples and apricots. Her to ispahan. 37 Here are feveral large vineyards, belonging partly chap. m. I • r 1 ' 1716. to the court, and partly to private pcrfons; there is a frenchman who fuperintcnds them. The wines are very good when drunk on the fpot; but cannot bear carriage, for the lead motion renders them in-fipid. Were it not for this circumftancc Russia would be able, not only to fupply itfelf abundantly with wine, but even other parts of Europe. This pernicious quality is attributed to the nitrous particles of the foil where the vines grow. I have myfclf feen in the furrows, made for watering them, a whit-ifc cruft of (lilt: But the grapes, notwithstanding, are very fweet, without the leait tincture of tartnefs. About a mile below tire town arc collected great quantities of common fait. The people dig pits, into which they introduce the water; which being exhaled by the heat of the fun, the laic is left upon the bottom: after gathering, they tranfport it along the river, in large barfmes of about live or fix hundred tun. The gun-powder manufactory is a little above the town; in which, and in the mines of fait-petre, near this place, are employed a great number °f workmen for the fcrvice of the government. Th* 38 a journey chap. in. The climate is healthy, though very hot. The ^-^1^, weather is generally calm, during which great numbers of gnats and muskitos infeft the inhabitants. Thefe vermine indeed are fometimes difperfed by 3 breeze from the fea, which renders this place very plcafant. They are hatched and fheltered in the marines toward the fea, which are fo overgrown with ftrong tall reeds that they are altogether impaiTable. The Mahometan tartars here live without the town; and have the fame privileges as in other places. I met feveral of their women in the ftreet with rings in their nofes, which were of different value, according to the rank of the perfon who wore them; fome of gold, and others fet with precious ftones. On inquiring the reafon of fuch a fingular ornament, I was told, that it was the confequence of a religious dedication of thefe perfons to the fervice of God: It is made by the parents, even while the mother is pregnant; in token'whereof, as foon as the child is born, they put a ring in the right noftrih which continues there till death. I have feen fome with two fuch rino;s. Astrachan is a place of confiderable trade to persia to ispahan. 39 PERSIA, CHIVA, BUCHARIA arid INDIA. The people CHAP. HI. of thefe nations have a common caravanfery, where they live and expofe their goods to fale. The Armenians carry on the greateft part of the Persian trade; for the Persians themfelves feldom go out of their own country. There are a few Indians, or banians, at this place, who have a llreak of yellow down their forehead, made with faffron or fome other vegetable. They are a good natured, innocent kind of people, and live moilly on fruits. The market is plentifully fupplied with provifions of all kinds; but especially hih, of which no place that I know abounds with fuch variety. After the fale is over, which is ufually about ten o'clock, what remains of the common forts is thrown to the dunghill, where the hogs and poultry feed upon them: and hence it happens that their very pork and fowls tafte of hih. It would be tedious to mention all the different kinds this place affords: I cannot however omit the carp, which for 6zc exceeds all of that name I ever heard of. I have feen fome of them of more than thirty pound weight, very fat and lufci-gu& Thofe caught in autumn are carried to mosco frozen^ a journey . frozen, and fold there and in the places adjacent. i ohferved alfo a great variety of uncommon birds, whereof i mall defcribe a few that feemed moft extraordinary. The lirft i (hall mention, called by the Russians baba, is of grey colour, and larger than a fwan; he has a broad bill, under which hangs a bag that may contain a quart or more; he wades near the edge of the river, and on feeing a fhoal of fry, or fmall iiihes, fpreads his wings and drives them to a fhallow, where he gobbles as many of them as he can into his bag? and then going afhore eats them, or carries them to his young. This bird i take to be the pelican. The next is altogether white, except its feet which are black; it is fomewhat lefs than a heron, and has a long broad bill. The Germans call this bird leffel-ganze, the Russians kolpeck. There is another about the fame fize, alfo white; but its feet are long and red, and its bill crooked and round, and as red as coral; its wings are adorn* ed with fome bright fcarlet feathers. Befidcs thefe, i faw a kind of duck, fomething bigger than the common fort, called turpan; it is cafdy to i s p a 11 a n. 41 cafily tamed, and much admired for its beauty and chap. ra. a certain kind of noife peculiar to itfelf. i have eat of all thefe fowls; but did not much relilh them, on account of the iifivy tafte with which they are all infected. There are alfo partridges and billiards, which need no defcription. The k \ lmucks, who arc keen fportfmcn, particularly at hawking, in which they have arrived to a great perfe&ion, kill the buftards With bows and arrows; when they fee them feeding they ride in upon them at full fpeed, and as the bu~ ftard Is a heavy bird, and mounts (lowly, they have an opportunity of {hooting them with broad-headed arrows. On the banks of the volga there is a {pedes of deer of a brighter red, and fomewhat larger than the fallow-deer; they have green horns, but not branch* about nine inches long, and covered with circles, tiling one above another to the point, which is very fharp. This deer is very fwift, and its fleftl excel* icnt; it has a Inch fiiout of griftle, which rifes very ^ear to the eyes, a circumftance which i have not obferved in any other animal. Vol. i. F 1 42 a journey chap. in. i faw alfo a fmall lively creature, called an astra- I 7 I 6) ' * ciian hare, about the fize of a fquirrel, and of a red' difh colour, remarkable for having the fore-feet very ihort in proportion to the hind-feet; its tail is long? with a tuft of hair at the extremity; it burrows if1 the earth, and being a very pretty creature, i have fometimes feen them in cages. The Kalmucks eat them very greedily. While wc were at astrachan, an ambaflador arrived there, from the Chan of chiva, going to sT* PETERSBURG. On his arrival he fent, according l° the eaftcrn cuftom, fome fmall prefents to our an1-baflador; they were brought by part of his retinue, and confided of a hawking glove, a fmall knife, a embroidered purfe, and fome fruits. Chiva is a large territory, lying about two o three days journey eaftward from the Caspian fea bounded by Persia on the fouth, and bucharia i° the call. The capital, which bears the fame name* is large and populous; and governed by a Chan, elected by the people. They arc very troublefome and dangerous, both to travellers and their neighbours* being frequently employed either in robbing the iof iner to ispahan. 4? mer, or making depredations on the latter. And chap. hi. though chiva is well fortified, its fituation in fo^L^ fandy and barren a defert is its belt defence. One day as i was walking through the flreets of astrachan, i obferved a very fmgular appearance; it was a pretty tartar lady mounted aftridc upon an ox; flie had a ring in her nofe, and a ftring drawn throueh the nofe of the ox, which ferved inftead of a bridle; (lie was drelTed better than common, and attended by a footman; the Angularity of the equipage, but particularly her extraordinary beauty, drew nay attention. The Mahometan muft not be confounded with the Kalmuck tartars; the fir ft are a Well looked civilized people in comparifon of the other. Before i leave astrachan it may be proper to rectify a miftaken opinion, which 1 have obferved frequently to occur in grave germ an authors, who, in treating of the remarkable things of this country, relate that there grows in this defert, or ftepp, adjoining to astrachan, in fome plenty, a certain hhrub or plant, called in the Russian language Tar-tarskey baraftika, /. c. Tartarian lamb, with the skin F 2 of 44 A JOURNEY chap. itt. of which the caps of the Armenians, Persians, t \r~ 171^- tars, &c. are faced; they alfo write, that this Tar-tarskcy barafhka partakes of animal as well as vege-tativc life; that it eats up and devours all the grafs and weeds within its reach. Though it may be thought, that an opinion fo very abfurd could find no credit with people of the meaneil fhare of un-dcrftanding, yet I have converfed with fome who have fecmed much inclined to believe it: So very prevalent is the prodigious and abfurd with fome part of mankind. In fcarch of this wonderful plant I walked many a mile, accompanied by tartars who inhabit thefe deferts; but all I could find out were fome dry buflics, fcattered here and there, which grow on a ilngle ilalk, with a buihy top, of a brownilh colour; the ilalk is about eighteen inches high; the top con (i ft" ing of fharp prickly leaves: It is true that no graft or weeds grow within the circle of its fhadc, a property natural to many other plants here, and elfe-wherc. After further enquiry of the more fcnfible and experienced among the tartars, I found they laughed at it as a ridiculous fable. Ac- to ispahan. 45 At Astrachah they have great quantities of chap. hi. lamb-skins, grey and black; fome waved, others cur-led, all naturally, and very pretty, having a fine glofs, particularly the waved, which, at a fmall diftancc, appear like the riched watered tabby, they are much efteemed, and are much ufed for the lining of coats, and the turning up of caps in persia, Russia, and other parts. The bed of thefe are brought from bu-GHaiUa, chiva, and the countries adjacent, and are taken out of the ewe's belly, after (lie hath been killed, or the lamb is killed immediately after it is lambed ; for fuch a skin is equal in value to the fneep. The Kalmucks and other tartars, who inhabit the defert, in the neighbourhood of astrachan, have alfo lamb-skins, which are applied to the fame purpofes; but the wool of thefe being rougher, and more hairy, they arc for inferior to thofe of buciia-Ria, or chiva, both in glofs and beauty, as alfo in the dreffing, confequently in value; I have known; one fmgle lamb-skin of bucharia fold for live or fix Shillings Sterling, when one of thefe would not yield two millings. On the 5th of Augud we quitted astrachan in five A J OURNE Y five vciTels, three of them flat-bottomed, and of a-bout an hundred and fifty tuns burden, with three mafts and ten guns each; the other two common barques. We failed from astrachan about noon; and at night came to an anchor at a fifhery, called uttzugg. Both the banks are now flat; to the weftward barren fands, and to the eaft marlhy and tali reeds abounding with vermine; fo that we neither eat nor flept in quiet, notwithftanding all the precautions we could ufe. i muft confefs this place had an afpect of horror, efpecially when it is confi-dcred, that, befides the wild and difmal appearance of the banks, we were carried down a mighty river into a great gulf, in many places of dangerous navigation, and whofe fhorcs are inhabited by inhofpi-table and barbarous nations; for fuch i reckon all of them, except the Russians and Persians. Next morning, at break of day, we got under fail, and about ten entered the Caspian fea; into which the river difcharges itfelf by feven or eight large channels, and many lefTer ones; two only of thefe channels are navigable by fhips of any burden. At night we eaft anchor near four hillocks of dry fancl, eaft to ispahan. 47 eaft up by the fea, called tzeterey bugory, com- chap.^h. puted to be about thirty verft from the mouth of t the volga; all which diftance we had not above fix or feven feet water, and even this depth is very narrow; fo that the paflage is extremely dangerous in hard gales of wind. The 7th early, we again fet fail with a gentle breeze from the fhore, which foon drove us into three fathom water, and out of fight of land; the water however ftill continued frefti as the river. A-bout noon the wind drifted to the fouth, which obliged us to come to an anchor, where we lay for near three weeks in calms and contrary winds. All this time we did not fee a finglc ftiip, befides our own, except one russ velfel that came from ('Uilan in Persia, with fome Armenian merchants; who made a prefent to the ambaffador of a basket °f oranges, melons, and other fruits; which was the ^ore acceptable as our own provifions of that kind ^ere all fpent. As often as the weather would permit we got under fail, and endeavoured to reach the toad of terky, a fmall fortified town, belonging to the Russians, on the northweft corner of the Caspian 48 A JOURNEY chap.in. pian fea, where we might be fupplied with prcvifi-171 ^« ons; but the continual calms prevented our fuccefs. On the evening of the 26th of Auguft the wind changed to the north weft, we hoifted all the fail we could, fleering our courfe fouth fouth-eaft; and before night palled the ifland of tullen, /. e. of seals; many of which animals haunt this place. It continued to blow hard the whole nip-In; and next morning we were in fight of the mountains called shaffkall, which were diftant about fifteen leagues. We proceeded the whole day, edging always a little nearer to the fhorc. The 28th in the evening it fell calm, and being about fix leagues off the land we eaft anchor. Next day, the wind blowing fair, in the afternoon we paffed the town of derbent. The ambaffidor ordered the caftlc to be fainted with nine guns; but it feems the people are not accuftomcd to make any return. It is a place confidcrably large, and the frontier of Persia in this quarter. It is fortified in the ancient manner, with a ftrong ftonc-wall, which reaches from the mountains to the fhore; fo that 110 army can pafs this way, except mountaineers, or tar- to ispahan. 49 tartars, who find roads every where. Derbent, chap. m. being a place of great confequence, is provided plen-^ tifully with cannon and ammunition, and a ftrong garrifon governed by a commandant appointed by the chan, or governor of shamachy, on which province it depends. It is reported that it was built by Alexander the Great. About the place there ftiU remain fevcral monuments of antiquity; particularly large ftones with inferiptions in uncommon characters. South from derbent ftands a very high fountain, called shachdach, the top of which is covered with fnow the whole year round, though the vallies are exceedingly hot. Auguft the 30th we arrived at niezabatt, the place where we intended to land, on the territories . °f PERSIA. It lies about two days journey eaft from dERbent. There beins no harbour, nor creek, we nanlcd up our (hips upon the more, which we performed with little trouble as they were all flat-bottomed. The (hip in which was our fecrctary, Monfieur venigerkind, and fcveral other officers, did not ar-rlve till about three o'clock afternoon. The wind Vol. I. G was 50 a j o u r n e y chap. in. was now very high, and a great fea upon the beach, x7 iBhicfe obliged them to drop an anchor in the open road; but the wind blowing ftill harder, it became dangerous to ride there; the skipper therefore flipt the cable and {food out to fea. The gentlemen however did not like their fituation on board, and being eager to get to land, ordered the mafter to run the fhip afhore and they would be accountable for the confequences; which he, a Hollander in the Czar's for vice, unwillingly complied with, under an ealy fail, about two miles eaflward of the place where we lay. All hands went to their afliitancc, but without effect; for though the fhip had received no damage, yet the fea run fo high that the boat could not be hoiflcd out to carry them to land. In the mean time the fecretary, impatient of remaining on board in fuch circumftances, prevailed with one of the failors to carry him afhore on his back; which being done, lie took his way alone towards the other fhips; but, his cloaths being drenched in the fait-water, and the road lying through deep fands, he was foon fatigued, and therefore retired nearer to the woods, in hopes of finding # more TO i S T A Ii A N. 5X more fmooth and eafy path. He discovered what he chap. m. fought; but, indead of leading him to the (hips, it *7V carried him away from the (bore and the right courfe, into thick incumbered woods; and in thefe circum-dances night overtook him, utterly ignorant of the difmal and dangerous wild into which he had wan-dered. Thus deftitute of ail affidance, he climbed a tree to fave himfelf from the wild-beads, with which thefe woods abound; and in this iituation continued all the night, and till noon next day; for the People in his own (hip never doubted of his having faFely reached our tents; while we, on the contrary, had not the lead fufpicion of his having come a-Ihorc At lad, however, about noon, his fervant came inquiring for his mader, who he told us left t]"*e (hip the night before. This account filled us all with anxiety and apprehenfion; as we certainly concluded he would cither be torn to pieces by the Xvild-beads, or murdered by the favages who inhabit thefe coads. Immediate order was given for all our people to repair to the woods in fcarch of him. He was at lad found wandering from path to path. Without knowing one direction from another. When G 2 he 52 a journey chap. in. he came to the tents he looked ghaftly and wild, ^l^^jrelated many flrange ftories of what he had heard in the night. All pofTible care was taken to alleviate his diftrefs. During his flcep, which was very difcompofed, he often flarted, groaned, and fpoke; and, even after he awaked, he pcrfiiled in affirming that there were numbers of people round the tree, in the night, talking different languages. 7 O 7 O O o The imagination, no doubt, will naturally have a ftrong effect on any man in fuch uncommon circum-fiances; for, though the fecretary was a man of per netration and found judgment, in vain did we endeavour to undeceive him, by rcprefenting that it was nothing but the jackals which made the noife he had heard; and, that to be convinced of the truth of this affirmation, he needed only, at the approach of night, to Hep a little from the tents, where he would hear the fame founds repeated; all was to no purpofe, fmce he infilled that the noife he heard was quite different from the yelpings of the jackals. \\t fcarce ever recovered his former fagacity and found-nefs of mind. i mud confefs the fituation of this gentleman moved me not a little; as he was a man of to ispahan. 53 of parts and learning, with whom i had contracted chap. in. . 7 1710. an intimate friendfhip. Since i have mentioned the jackals, it may not be improper to give a fhort account of thefe animals. They are of a lize larger than a fox, of the fhape and colour of a wolf, with a fhort bufhy tail. They dig burrows in the earth, in which they lye all day, and come out in the night to range for prey. They affemble in flocks among the woods, and frequently near towns and villages, when they make the hideous noife formerly mentioned, rcfembling in fome naeafure a human voice, or the noife of the tartars and Cossacks when they attack their enemies. They have fine nofes; and hence the vulgar opinion has arifen that they hunt prey for the lion. They are in great plenty all over PERSIA, and efleemed harmlefs creatures. As foon as we landed, the ambafrador difpatched an interpreter to shamachy, to notify his arrival to the governor of that place, and to defire him to fend eamels and horfes to tranfport him thither. The interpreter was kindly received, and an order was hnmediately iilucd out for anfwering his demands. Sep- a journey September the ift, the chan of shamachy fent an officer of diftinction to falute the ambaflador; and, the next day, a prcfent of provisions; confiifing of an ox, fome hhecp, with fruits and confections. About iix or eight leagues to the eaftward of niE~ zabatt is a high rock, called barmach, or the finger, upon the fhore, which a great many of the Armenians vifit annually to pay their devotions. They have a tradition that the prophet elijah lived fome years at this place. September 2d we were a little alarmed with intelligence, that a confiderablc body of mountaineers had plundered fome villages in our neighbourhood. We had not yet received any guard from the Persians, and were therefore obliged to take every precaution poflibje for our defence. We armed all our own people, and all the failors; and befides thefe we had twenty foldiers from the garrifon of astrachan. Cannon were brought from the fhips, and planted in proper places to prevent a furprife. Thefe preparations feem to have intimidated the undifciplincd lavages, for they never attacked us. Two days journey eaftward from niezabatt ftand ABSHE- to ispahan. 55 absheroon and backu, two confiderable towns; at chap.m. the former is a good harbour, reckoned the bed in J^^y the Caspian fea, except that of astrabatt, which lies in the foutheaft corner of it. All the reft arc fo dangerous that they fcarce deferve the name of harbours. In the neighbourhood of backu are many foum tains of naphtha; it is a fort of petroleum, of a brown colour, and inflammable nature. The Persians burn it in their lamps; no rain can extinguifh it; but the fmell is difagrceablc. I have feen of it as clear as rock-water. The Caspian fea is of an oblong irregular 1 about one hundred and fifty leagues in length, from north to fouth, and forty or fifty leagues broad. The water is exceilively frit, except where it is fweetcned by the volga, which is at leaft to the di fiance of ten leagues from the influx of that river. The navigation of the Caspian belongs folely to the Russians; the Persians and other borderers having nothing but fiihing-boats. It contains abun-dance of fi(b; but no (hell-fiih, except a kind of cockle, the. fhells of wliich arc very pretty. In fome places. 56 a journey chap. in. places there is a great depth of water. The per-(^^^sia>is obferve that of late the fea has retired confi-dcrably from the more; which they reckon ominous, prefaging fome calamity to the kingdom. It has no tides, but fuch as are caufed by the wind; and, notwithstanding the great quantities of water daily received, it continues nearly about the fame height. dr. halley has demonftrated, that, exhalation, in fo hot a climate, is fufficient to account for this phenomenon, without having recourfe to fubterraneous paflages. The 4th, I was conducted by an Armenian merchant, fome leagues from our tents, to vifit a Persian. We were received in a very complaifant and friendly manner; the houfe was clean, and the floor fpread with carpets. Our entertainment confided of coffee and boiled rice. On the 11 th arrived two Jefuits from india, named valery and martinet, on their way to rome. They petitioned the ambaffador for a paffage in one of our fhips to astrachan; which was granted. A-bout this time many of our retinue began to be feiz-ed with different difcafes, particularly fevers, fluxes, and to i s p a ii a n. and agues; which, in a few days, made fuch progrefs, chap 171 that, at the ambaffadofs table, where feldom fewer J_ than ten dined, he and myfelf only were prefent. Thefe diftempers exhibited a moil difagreeable project, and made us wiih earneftly to leave a place that threatened our deftruction. For this purpofe, meffengers were daily fent to the chan of shamachy, to difpatch the camels, horfes, and mules; fome of them indeed were already come, but not near the number we needed; for our numerous fick could only be tranfported on litters carried by mules. The 1 2th, a conductor, called maymandcr, arrived with a guard of Persian foldicrs, and fome more cattle, which were ftill too few. This officer is appointed by the Shach or King to guide ambafladors to court, and furnim them with provifions, carriages, and lodgings, at the Shach's expence, from the time they enter the kingdom. Having accommodated ourfelvcs in the heft mam ner we could, we quitted niezabatt on the iSth, keeping along the (bore; and at night came to a fmall village, about three agatz from niezabatt. We found the houfes all empty, the people having Vol. i. H 5? A I O U R N E Y chap. nr. fled to the woods or mountains on our approach, v^y^vj '^he 20th we reached a village about four agatz (an agatz is reckoned to be four English miles,) from the former, where we lodged again in empty houfes; and the 21ft proceeded four agatz further, to a brook of white and muddy water, where we pitched our tents. About noon, next day, we came to a fountain of pure water, under a great oak. Mere we halted two hours to refrefli the fick; and, after travelling four agatz further, arrived at an old caravanfery. A long days-journey for people in fuch di drefs. The caravanferies arc generally large iquare-build-ijjrms. with a court in the middle. All round there arc rooms for lodging travellers, and on one fide a fiable for horfes. They are of different fizes and conftruclions, according to the bounty or ability of the founder; fome are built by charitable people, others by good kings. They are fituated as near frelh water as poffible, and about a day's journey from one another. As there are no inns in the cad, thefe caravanfe-les in fome mcafurc (yppjy that defect, though no' thing; TO i s V A H A X. 59 thine is found in them but fhelter. They are how- chap.ih. 171 O. ever very convenient for travellers; and fome of them c*n contain five hundred men, with their horfes. ^tere is commonly an old man, who cleans the r°oms, and fetches neceilaries from the next town 0r village. The 23d, we halted to refrem the fick, and here ^ buried two of our mechanics. The 24th, we travelled to a ruinous caravanfery, aW four ao-atz from the former. This was the flfft inftance that occurred of remilfncfs and inattention in the prefent government of Persia; for the K^g, without attending to his own affairs, allows himfelf to be cmided entirely by thofe whofe intcreft lt is to deceive him. Nothing, in the judgment of a foreigner, can render any people more contemptible than the notorious neglc6t of fuch ufeful pub-uck edifices. This day we received another fupply °f proviiions from the chan. * The 26th, we travelled to a plain within a league °f shamachy, where we lay all night to be received into the town, the day following, in form and Cere* m°ny, according to the cuftom of Persia. At this H 2 place 60 a J O U R N E Y ghap. in. place died my friend, captain jacques de villettk }7l6- jtc was a oentleman of a good family in France,. and a very worthy man. And, befides the Captain, two fervants died here. CHAPTER IV. Occurrences during our Jlay ^ shamachy;. Our journr; thence to tauris. rFHE 27th, in the morning, came the Kalentar: and Dor-ruga, with many of the inhabitants, to-pay their compliments to the ambaflador. Thefe officers are ncx,t in rank under the chan, and have, die fole direction of affairs in his abfence. They brought fome fine liorfes, richly caparifoned, for the chief of the retinue. As we approached the place we were met by other officers, particularly the Divan, Begg and IilvagafTy, and magiffrates, all mounted on {lately horfes, with rich furniture, which, made a very fplendid appearance. Before the am-baflador's ■ hor-fe two young fellows tumbled all the way, with great agility. About two o'clock we en-Tiered the city. TO ISPAHAN. 61 As we paffed along the ftreets, all the tops of the chap. iv. houfes were filled with fpc&ators. At laft the am-halTador arrived at the houfe of one of the principal officers, which was allotted entirely to him and his attendants. The houfes in Persia are moftly flat-roofed. As there is but little rain in this country, a very fmall declivity is fu (Helen t to carry off the water. i compute the diftance between niezabatt and sn t-Machy to be about twenty five agatz, or an, hundred miles. October ill, i had a vifit from a gentleman well dreffed in the Persian falhion, and was not a little, furprized to hear him talk good high-dutch After fome converfation, he told me he was born at-Dantzick; that in his youth he came to PERSIA with a polish ambaffador, who died at Ispahan. That, fome differences arifing between him and his countrymen, to end the difpute he turned Mahometan, and fettled in Persia, where he now enjoyed a fmall Salary as a linguilt. He had often repented of this raili flep; but, having a wife and children at shamachy, he could not abandon them. The day following, the chan, with a numerous-re tLr 6i A JOURNEY chap. iv. retinue, paid a ceremonial vifit to the ambaiTador. 1716. rp^e c]ian js a middle-aged man, of a Graceful af-pect, by birth a Georgian, of Chriftian parents, but brought up at court from his infancy: And it mult be confelled that his treatment of the ambaffador was extremely obliging. The 14th, the chan fent an invitation to the am-baffiidor to go a hunting, with horfes for that pur-pofe. We marched about two or three miles to the eaftward, till we came to a plain overgrown with ihort reeds. We fprung a number of pheafants, ten or fifteen whereof were killed by the chan's hawks, and feveral hares were run down by the grey-hounds, which were all fent to the ambaliador's lodmno-s. About this time there happened a mifunderftand-ing between the ambaiTador and fecretary, by the imprudence of the latter. It is cuftomary for the Shach to make prefents in money, or other things, to all ambafladors, according to the dignity of their refpective mailers; and though no money had yet been granted, the unlucky fecretary, poor gentleman! not quite recovered, by an unfeafonable and ill advifed claim, pretended a right to part of the future dona- TO ISPAHAN. donative. The ambaiTador, on the contrary, alledg- chap. iv. ed, that the fecretary was intituled to nothing from ' him, except the privilege of his table and provifi-ms for his fervants. Both my fituation in the retinue, and an indifpofition, prevented my intermeddling in this difputc. I only advifed the fecretary to poflpone his claim till fome more favourable opportunity. My advice however had no effect, for the difference Hill increafed, till the fecretary fell fick, and was confined to his lodgings, where he died Suddenly on the 5 th of November. This event was the more melancholy to me, in particular, as it was unexpected; by the death of this gentleman I was deprived of another worthy friend. *le was a saxon by birth; was candid, honed, and Were; and much cdeemed, by all his acquaintance,, for Ins learning and capacity. A few days after, there arrived at shamachy a Persian ambaffidor, who had been in France, and had returned homeward through Russia. His behaviour in France, and in other places, had been little for the honour of his maftcr. The miniitry *t Ispahan had perfect intelligence of his whole con- 64 A J O U R N E Y chap. iv. duct, which he came to underftarid; and, being afraid 171 ^* to undergo a trial at court, went directly to the city irw * . . . of erivan, the place of his refidence when in his own country, where, as it was reported, he poifoned himfelf He had treated a French engineer, whom he engaged in the fervice of his mafler, fo cruelly that he died two days after coming to shamachy. The 25th, i dined with father peter ricard, in company with Monfieur bourgard a French merchant. This father hath lived as a miihonary in different places of Persia for many years. He had ilu-died phyfick, which he practifed occafionally, and thereby introduced himfelf to an acquaintance with many families of dillinction. He is a man of a grave and fober deportment, which procures him great re-fpect. He has a fmall congregation at this place, confiiling only of christian Armenians, who have been converted from the communion of the eastern to the western church; for it is a capital crime to convert a Mahometan. Bourgard was employed by the English factory at Ispahan, to buy raw filks here to be fent to aleppo. The ambafiador fent a prefent to the chan, of fables, T O I S P A H A N. 6j tables, and other rich furrs of confiderablc value; chap. iv. • 171 c)» and had, in return, a fine horfe, with a fadle, bridle, ^J^^j and other trappings, mounted with gold. Sometime after, there arofe a difpute between the ambaffador and the Chan, about the Shach's gratuity; the firft thought the fum offered was too fmall, while the latter affirmed he had no authority for a greater allowance. The determination of this affair detained us longer than we intended to flay; how-over, in the mean time, camels and horfes were ordered to be got ready. After many meffages on both fides, the Chan, unwilling to let the ambaffador depart unfatisfied, fent Monfieur bourgard with an offer of ten tomans (a toman is equal to three pounds Sterling,) a day, during his journey to Ispahan, and that fum for three days only of the time he continued at shamachy. This pro-Pofal was at lad accepted, and the money paid. I hhall, before we leave this place, add a few remarks on the city and its environs. Shamachy is fituated in about forty degrees north latitude. It was anciently part of media; but now the capital of an extenfive province, called shirvan. Vol. I. I The 66 A JOURNEY chap. iv. The city (lands on the declivity of a hill, inclining ^J^J^j to tne fouth, and rifes toward the top in form of an amphitheatre. The place is large, but the houfes are meanly built; excepting thofe of the governor, the chief magiftrates, and a few rich merchants. The fbeets are narrow and irregular. The greater part of the inhabitants are Persians. There is alfo a confiderable number of Georgians and Armenians. The vulgar language is Turkish; but the people of tliftinclion fpeak Persian. The air is more healthy than at places nearer to the Caspian fea. Above the town, on the fummit of the hill, (lands an high edifice, having many windows and a gallery,, in which, every day at the riling and fetting of the Inn, is held a kind of concert of mufick, compofed of long trumpets, large drums, and hautboys, which make a dreadful found. It is reported that this cuf-tom is as ancient as die time of Alexander the Great. There are alfo in the city feveral mofques withe high pillars adjoining, which the moulla or pried afcends every day at twelve o'clock to call the people TO ISPAHAN, 67 pie to prayers; for the Mahometans ufe no bells, chap.iv. They have, befides, fcveral publick baths, fome for 171 ^* men, others for the women, to which both fexes re-fort daily for ablution, conformably to the law of their religion. The women go generally in companies of live or fix, fo concealed with a white veil that nothing of them is vifiblc but the eyes and nofe. There are feveral'fpacious caravanferies, very convenient for ftrangers or merchants, who there ex-pofe their commodities; for which they pay a fmall. import. There is a confiderablc traffick at this place; particularly in raw-filk, which is produced in the neighbourhood, the greater!: part whereof is purchafed by the English and dutch factories at Ispahan, and lent to aleppo; alfo cotton, which indeed is moftly fold to the natives, and confumed in (luffs for their own ufe. The country about shamachy, befides many kinds of fruits, produces plenty of wheat, barley, and very fine grapes, from which the christians make very good wine; they keep it in great jars relembling the Florence oil ones, which they de-pofite under ground in their gardens, covering them I 2 above 68 A J O U R N E Y chap. iv. above with a thin (Tone, neatly palled about the lJ\^' ed^es, for the better prefervation of the liquor. When they give an entertainment they fprcad carpets round the jar, which is generally placed in a (hade, and on thefe the guells are fcated. About two miles to the northward of the city (lands a high mountain, named guilistan■- dagh, where are feen the ruins of an ancient cattle built of (lone; it appeared not to be of eaflcrn architecture. I could procure no information who was the founder, or by whom it was demoliflicd. Adjoining, to this mountain is another, on which are the tombs of two faints, or heroes, whither great numbers of devout people conic annually to worihip. I obferved near thefe tombs fcveral hallowed rocks covered with fmall {bells brought hither by the worlhippcrs. I obferved likewife on the common rocks many (hells imprinted and petrified, which feemed very extraordinary. December 4th, all things being prepared for our departure, we were furniihed by the conductor, or maymander, with one hundred and fixty camels, and near two hundred horfes and mules, on which we left. TO ISPAHAN. 69 left shamachy, travelling along the riling grounds, chap.iv. We halted two days at an Armenian village called^ w xalck-anti. On the 7th, we defcendcd into a defert plain, called by the Russians mugan, and by the Persians kurdistan. At mid-night we came to fome Wells of brackifh water, where we lodged in fuch tents as are ufed by the inhabitants, which were prepared by the conductor. We proceeded the 10th live agatz, to a little eopfc-wood, where was found tolerable water, and the 1 uh arrived at the river kurE, or cyre, which We palled on a bridge of boats, and pitched our tents on the other fide. The water of the river is-fweet and wholefome. About half a leamie above the bridge the river praxis, now arras, falls into the kure, which together form a confiderablc dream that difcharges itfelf into the Caspian fea, about a day's journey below the bridge, running northward all the way. But the mouth of the river is fo choaked up with *ftd, that it is navigable by no veRel of any burden. The river kure divides the province of shirvan A JOURNEY from kurdistan. The kurdy, probably fo called from the name of the river, are a very ancient peo* pie, and feem to be the fame whom xenophon in the anabasis calls karduchi, who fo ftrenuoufly op-pofed his paiTage, in his famous retreat from arta-xerxes. They are itill reckoned a brave people. Their horfes are moft efteemed of any in Persia, both for beauty and ftrength. We left the kure on the 13th, and proceeded feven agatz to chuda-tzoolatzy, where the water was very brackifh and muddy. The country around appeared plain as the fea. Setting out early next morning, we travelled ten agatz, and in the evening reached a brook of tolerable water, called bolgar. This was the laft day's journey in the plain of mug an. The inhabitants, the kurdy, live in tents all the year. The foil is very dry and barren, notwithstanding the cattle are in good condition, and the mutton particularly very good. While we halted about noon, fome Persian fportfmen, who, by their drefs, feemed perfons of diftincrron, pitched their tents near ours. They fent the TO ISPAHAN, the ambaiTador a prefent of wild-fowl, and an an- chap telope. The ambaiTador invited them to marc a lJ\ traveller's dinner. Three of the gentlemen accepted the invitation, but excufed themfelves from eating any thing, pretending they had already dined; but it is well known that the Mahometans fcruple to eat with christians; each of them however drank a difh of coffee, and an old man a dram of brandy. They had fcveral grey-hounds, and a couple of large hawks, which were trained to ify at antelopes; the hawks cannot indeed hold fo (Irons; a creature as an antelope, but they fly about its head, and thereby retard its velocity, till the grey-hounds, or horfe-nien, overtake it; for the antelope far out-runs any grey-hound I ever faw. In this defert I have feen blocks of them confiftinQ- of two or three hundred. In manning hawks to fly at antelopes, they fluff the skins of thefe animals with draw, and feed the hawk between their horns, placing food there for cnat purpofc; hence they arc accuftomed to hover *ound the head, which proves the dc(traction of thefe creatures. I was informed that it is in this banner the tartars manage hawks to fiy at foxes and 72 A JOURNEY chap. iv. and wolves. Thefe particulars may poffibly appear ^7^^ immaterial; however, as they may contribute to a- mufe the reader, it was thought not improper to infert them. After refting the 16th, we travelled next day four agatz, to the foot of a very high mountain, where we found a few poor cottages defertcd by their inhabitants on our approach. The water was in plenty and good. The weather was very cold, and no firewood could be got, except a little we brought along with us. One of our people draggling too near the rocks was dangeroufly wounded with a Hone, thrown by fome of thefe cottagers who had retired thither. On thefe rocks I faw a creature like a goat, called by the Germans Stein-buck; it is much bigger than the common kind of thefe animals, and its horns are of a prodigious fize. The 18th, we advanced five agatz farther; and the ioth,feven agatz to a large village, called katchoo-chana, where the chan of mugan has a good houfe. The weather being cold and frofty we continued here all the 20th. The 2 1 it we travelled five agatz, to a village under < TO ISPAHAN. 73 der a great mountain, where was a water-mill for chap, iv, grinding corn, the firft machine of that fort i faw l7l&* in Persia. The 2 2d we came to a fmall town called aggar. The kalentar ordered the citizens to arm and op-pofe our entry, and, notwithstanding the remon-ftrances of our conductor, he perfiltcd unalterable in his purpofe, affirming he had no order to admit fuch a body of armed men. He did not however refufe us provifions, wood and water, for money. We were therefore obliged to content ourfelves with thefe, and lodge in our tents on an open field, in cold weather. Next day we proceeded two or three agatz, to a large populous village, where the people, in imitation of thofe at aggar, affembled in arms, and bar-ticadoed all their entries, refufing us admittance; they beat our quarter-matter, a Persian officer belonging to the conductor, for offering to force his Way into the place. We therefore lodged again in the open air. They fent out fome fire wood, and whatever elfe they could fpare. i mull confefs i could fcarce blame thefe people for their behaviour; Vol. i. K be- 74 A J O U R N E Y chap iv. becaufe, had we been admitted, the inhabitants muft all have left their own houfes: and where could a parcel of poor women and children have found fhel-ter in fuch extremity of cold. The 2/jth we continued our journey betwixt two great mountains, where the north wind was very piercing. We paffed an old ruinous caravanfery, and arrived in the evening at an empty village, which the natives had forfook the day before. All next day we halted, being christmass. The 26th we marched forward four agatz, to another village. The inhabitants were fo hofpi-table as to afford us lodging; but charged dear for every thing we needed, efpccially wood, which was bought at the rate of three-pence for feven pounds. On the 27th we travelled over exceeding hiehs mountains, from whence, i was told by an Armenian merchant in our company, might be feen, in a clear day, the top of the fiunous mount Ararat, called by the Persians aggry, by the Armenians. 1essin ; the fummit is conflantly covered with fnow, md often with a cloud. It is the highefl of all that TO I S P A I-I A N. 75 chain of mountains in Armenia, on which we then chap. iv. flood. l7l6' How far my information might be true I cannot determine; but certain it is, that when the Armenians fee this mountain they make a fign of the crofs, and fay their prayers, as is their cuftom, when they approach any place which they eifeem facred. In the evening we arrived at the city of tauris, terris, or tebris, as it is pronounced by fome. The ambaiTador was met, about half a mile from the place, by the kalentar, and chief officers, who, after the common falutations, conducted him to his lodgings. Our baggage was depofited in a large ca* ^avanfery in the neighbourhoods CHAR j6 A J O U R N E Y chap. v. 1716- C H A P T E R V. Occunrwrs during our flay at tauris; Our journey thenCA to ispahan. ■*T^AU'RB is a large and populous city, the capital of the province of that name, and the relldence of the chan. It is fituated in a fruitful plain, encom-palled by the high rocks of mount tauris, about ten days journey from shamachy, and twenty five from Ispahan. I mean to a caravan. It is fuppofed to be the ancient metropolis of media. It is Hill of confidcrable extent; but not near what it has been. There are yet to be feen many curious remains of ancient grandeur; particularly an old temple converted into a mofque, now neglected and ruinous. The roof is fupported by many (lately pillars of porphyry, almolT entire, fome whereof are of a grecnim colour, with other colours and veins of gold inter-iperfed. The proportions feemed to be regular, and the workmandiip very (ine and curious. In Ihort, I am unable to defcribc the fymmetry and beauty of thefe pillars; and wonder how they have efcaped the fur J TO ISPAHAN, fury of fo many barbarians. It is no lefs furprifing where were got fuch malTy pieces of marble, feeing nothing: like them is now to be found in this coun-try. Thefe particulars demonftratc the ancient grandeur and riches of this place. It is, however, a deplorable truth, that this country, in general, hath undergone fo many revolutions, fince the time of Alexander the Great, her fir ft conqueror, that, a few places excepted, the prefent names, and defcriptions of cities and provinces, bear almoft no refemblance to thofe of antiquity; fo that one can fcarce imagine them accounts of the fame places: To fuch a degree hath time and barbarous invaders changed the appearances of things. Fire and fword have raged to dc-ftroy magnificent cities; ftately temples and palaces are dcmolifhed; whole provinces depopulated; and fruitful fields converted into a defert, by diverting the fprings, or turning the rivers, that watered them, *nto other channels: Such are the confequences of lawlefs ambition on the fmeft productions of nature and art. The laft is a circumftance to which few countries are fo much expofed as Persia; for in the inland part of it, there is almoft no rain, which o>- bliges 78 A JOURNE Y chap. v. bliges the inhabitants to water all their vegetables I7I * from fprings and brooks. They often convey even rivers fcvcral leagues, in channels under ground, for this purpofe. The dew indeed is very plentiful; but would be infuflicient of itfelf for the purpofes of vegetation. The ftreets of tauris are narrow and irregular. The houfes are built with bricks made of mud, mixed with chopped flraw, and dried in the fun; the governor's palace indeed, and a few more houfes, are built of (tone, and make a good appearance. The roofs are generally flat, and covered with a terrace. The walls are white-wafhed on the infidc, and look very white and clean. The floors of every houfe are fprcad with carpets, or mats, according to the cir-cunifiances of the inhabitants. The people of di-Itinction have great halls of audience, in their outer courts, arched with fquare bricks, which are plaifler-ed and painted with flowers; this is done at a fmall expencc, and makes a very fine Ihow. There are feveral well built mofqucs, with (lately minorets, or pillars, which the moulla afcends to call the people to prayers; alfo an high building for the TO ISPAHAN. 79 the mufick, that plays evening and morning, as men- chap. v. tioned at shamachy. There are alfo fome large ca- 1 71 *avanferies; fo that no ftranger can be at a lofs for lodging at a fmall expence. The city is quite open, having no caftle, or fortification to defend it. In-deed one would imagine the defert mountains, fear-city of water, and other obftrucrions, would be a furricient defence againit all invafions; the fury of the turks, however, in their wars with Persia fur-Counted all thefe obftacles. Tauris is fupplied with water from a brook, called shankuy, which runs through the city, and fome Springs in the neighbourhood. The inhabitants are Softly Persians; though there are among them many Armenians. They have a confiderablc commerce in raw-filk, and manufactories of carpets, and filk. and cotton fluffs. They have great crops of wheat and barley, when at the trouble and expence of watering the fields; but their principal fupport is rice,, brought from the province of guilan, where it grows very plentifully; for this kind of grain, which of all °ther thrives belt on wet land, agrees wonderfully '•vith. that rich moift foil near the Caspian fea. A JOURNEY The Capuchin miffionaries have a convent at this place, for the ufe of the Armenians of the roman catholick profeflion*, which is fuperintended by two fathers of that order. About a league from the city, on the road to Ispahan, are feen, the ruins of a bridge, on the top of a hill, where, I believe, no water has run fincc the deluge. It is faid that it was built by a whimfical prieit, in order to introduce himfelf to the King, shach abb ass, who could not avoid taking notice, when he paffed that way, of fuch an extraordinary appearance. About four or five leagues from tauris, in a plain called roomy, there are feveral fprings of water that petrify wood, and, I have been informed, even reptiles-, fuch as lizards. One thing is certain, that, after a ftagnation of this water, for a certain time, there is a fubflance like marble found at the bottom, which the Persians cut into any breadth, or length, at plcafure. I have feen of it two or three inches thick. It is eafily polifhed, and is diaphanous, but not tranfparent. After (awing it into flabs, they fix them for windows in their bagnios and private apartments T "O I S P A H A N. 8i Merits. Perhaps, it is not improbable, the large pil- chap. v. lars, formerly mentioned, might be hewn out of this I7I7-kind of marble. During our fray at tauris, little material happened. The weather continued very cold, whicb, together with want of horfes and camels, detained us longer than we expected. i could not but pity the poor people of this place; the cold was fo exceffive, and bread, and other nccefTaries fo dear, that, i was niformcd, many of them perifhed in the (Ireets. January 2d, 1717, Monfieur ricard, a French Jefuit, arrived, in his way to Ispahan, with fome letters from rome to the Sophy. He fent Monfieur d^ffus, one of his retinue, with his compliments to our ambaiTador. The Chan being abfent, the Vizir, who is his lieutenant, came the 6th, in great (late, to vi(it the ambaffador: who, on the 11 th, returned the compliment, attended with all his retinue. He was receiv-ed in a magnificent hall, fpread with fine carpets. There was a feat placed for the ambaiTador; but the reft of the company fit crofs-legged on the carpets, ln the Persian manner. Vol. I. L The 82 A J O U R N E Y CJHAB.V. The 20th there was a great fall of fnow, which 17l7m very much foftcned the cold piercing northerly winds. The 2 2/1, having, with great difficulty, procured horfes and camels, we left tauris, and travelled two agatz through deep fnow, which incommoded us not a little; particularly on account of the camels, who cannot bear deep roads. The 24th and 25th, the roads were impaffable. I faw here a male camel trample one of his keepers under his feet. For at this feafon, when the females are rutting, the males arc very furious and ungovernable, and mud be managed with great caution. The 26th, we travelled two agatz, to a fpacious well built caravanfery, founded by shach sf.phy, fufficient to contain fome hundreds of men and horfes. Here we halted fome time, and proceeded in the afternoon live agatz farther. In this day's journey you have the choice of two roads, both leading to Ispahan ; one through the cities of ardeville and cas-jun; and the other by zengan and sultany; the lad whereof we choofed, being fome what ihortcr. Ardeville is reported to be a very line place;.. and A JOUR N £ t fcj and is famous for the monuments of shach sephy chap. v. the fird, and other Persian princes and heroes, c- I7I7* deemed for their virtue and piety. A great many devout people come, from all parts of the country, to worfhip at thefe tombs, where a confidcrable charity is daily didributed to the poor pilgrims; to fup-port which, there is a fund fettled by the King, with proper oificers appointed to fupcrintend the management of it, and prevent frauds. i wanted much to Vlfit this place, but found it impracticable. The 27th, we advanced three agatz, through deep fnow, to a caravanfery built of bricks. We Were at no lofs for water while the fnow lay upon the ground. The next day we reached a large village, called kara-china inhabited by Persians and Armenians. About a mile from the place we were met by an Armenian pried, attended by a company "°f country people, who came to welcome us as fellow Chridians. One of them carried a painted crucifix, raifed on a long pole; others played on flutes and hautboys, and other mufical indruments; to which one or two pcrfons kept time, by beating two thin brafs plates againd each other; and many of L 2 them 84 A J 0 U R N E Y chap. v. them Tung hymns and pfalms. In this manner they »^Z^J\accompanied us to our lodgings, where we were better accommodated than we had been hitherto. We received from thefe people, in particular, very good wine and grapes, which they preferve, through the winter, by hanging them in dry and open places. About this time many of our people had fore eyes, and fwclled faces, caufed by the ftrong reflexion of the fun-beams from the fnow. The Persians themfelves are liable to the fame difordcrs. As a remedy, they wear a fillet of net-work, made of black horfe hair, over their eyes; which I found, by experience, altogether effectual. The 3 1 if, we fct out early, and travelled four agatz to turkoma, a large village. The fnow continued very deep. Here we were obliged to wait for our camels, fome of which did not arrive till next day. February 2d, we travelled eight agatz to a little town called mianna, where is a caravanfery for horfes only. Here we buried another of our people. The 4th, after two hours march, we paiTcd a n-\cr, over which is a fine flone-bridge, Handing under TO ISPAHAN. 85 der an high mountain called kaplanton. Leaving chap. v. that place, we law, on the left hand, the ruins of ^7*7^ an old fortification. We rcpaffed the river on another ftone-bridgc; thence to a caravanfery, called tzamatura, and at night reached another, called sartzam, being eight agatz from mianna. Here "We halted till our camels arrived; the greateft part whereof came not before next day. We perceived the depth of the fnow to leffen daily, as we advanced to the fouth. The 7th, we travelled five agatz to a fmall town named z en can, where we lodged in a good caravanfery. The Sultan, or chief magiftrate, waited on us, and gave us a friendly and hofpitablc reception. He has under his jurifdiction, both this place and sultany; at each he refides half the year by turns. Here we met a Russian merchant, who had about fifteen or twenty camels loaden with various kinds of merchandife, going to bucharia. We halted two days, on account of the deep fnow hi this neighbourhood; and the 10th, after travelling fix agatz, came to sultany. This place is at pre- A J O U R N E Y . v. prcfcnt fmall and inconfidcrablc, though it appears 7- to have been a great and famous city in former times. There are (fill to be feen fevcral ftately mofques and minorets; one of thefe mofques is the tomb of a Persian prince, called chudabendie, which has a brafs gate of lattice work, feemingly of great antiquity. In the fame mofque is the tomb of sultan bajazat, fon tO chudabendie. On the i 2th, we travelled four agatz to a village where we {laid all night; and the 13th, three agatz to another, through deep fnow, which prevented our proceeding next day. The 15th, we travelled five agatz, and the 16th fotir, to a large village, called guiga zayn. At this place a Russian youth applied to the ambaiTador for freedom and protection. He had been carried away by the tartars, from fome of the fouthem provinces of russia, and was fold fome years before in Persia. He was forced to turn MAHOMEtan; had almoft forgot his mother tongue; and was obliged to explain himfelf by an interpreter. The ambaiTador afforded him the protection he fought. His mailer claimed either his (lave or the money he had TO f SPA HA N. 8y had paid for him; neither of which demands could chap. v. be granted. v^/^Lv The 13 th, we arrived at sexabbatt, a village four agatz from the former, where we quartered that night, and relied all the next day. The 20th, we advanced three agatz to arazant, a fmall village. This diftrict. being much peftered with ftrong gangs of high-way men, we marched with great circumfpection, and in the night the baggage was guarded, both by our own people and the conductor's foldiers. The 2 i ft, after a journey of three hours, we came to an old caravanfery, called idjoop, where we relied; then advanced four agatz to another, called kockera, fituated in an extenfive plain. The fnow was now altogether gone, and the water at this place very bad. In an upper room of this caravanfery, I faw the names of many Europeans cut on the wall, in different languages: among which was that of olearius, fecretary to the holstein ambaf-fadors, who publiihed a very exact account of that faritlefs embafly. The 2 2d of February, we fet out very early, and in 88 A JO U R N E Y chap.v. in three hours reached dengcie, a caravanfery, l7I7" where we halted for refreshment; and at night arrived at saba, or sava, feven agatz from kockera. Saba appears, from many ruins, to have been a place of great note; it (lands in a fruitful and ex-tenfive plain, which produces all forts of fruit natural to the climate; particularly pomegranates, the largeft I have feen. The trees were now in full bloom, and had a very fine appearance. Some years ago this place was almoft ruined by a deluge; it has been repairing ever fince, but is ilill far from its former condition. The 24th, our road lay through a defert and barren plain, abounding with faltpetre. We travelled fix agatz to jeffrabatt, a new caravanfery; and the 25th, five agatz to the town of room. About two leagues from koom we faw a round hill to the left, called in Turkish, gedeen-gedmaze, which fignifies, that, whoever goes up never returns; which, the Persians fay, was the fate of a page fent up by shach abbass with a lighted torch in his hand: however this be, it is certainly no eafy matter to afcend this place; becaufe the whole hill confifts of TO ISPAHAN. 89 of fand, which is hhifced from place to place by the chap. v. wind, and mull foon tire whoever attempts to climb 1717' it. Koom is reckoned among the chief towns in Persia, and is the refidence of a Chan. It is fituated in a fertile plain, well watered by a pretty large river, over which is a fine ftone-bridgc. In the town is a fpacious caravanfery, and feveral well built mofques and minorets; one of thefe mofques is highly efteemed by the Persians, becaufe of the fepulchre of shach sephy and his fon shach ab-bass the fecond, and that of sidy fathima, granddaughter to their prophet mahomet. Thefe tombs are much frequented by pilgrims, from all parts of Persia, who refort thither once a year to pay their devotions; and are fupported by a fund appropriated to that purpofe. Before you reach the mofque, you pafs through three neat courts; and in the middle of the fourth, where the mofque Hands, there is a large bafon of clear water. Above the gate are ingraved in gilt-letters, the names of the deceafed princes, with fome verfes in their praife. The monument of sidy fa- Vol. I. M thima 90 A JOURNEY chap v. thima frauds in the front of the building, encom-^J^^paj[fe(j wim a grate-work of pure fdver, very valuable. To each of the princes are confecrated magnificent apartments, where the priefts read the Koran night and day. This is alfo a place of refuge for debtors, and unfortunate people, who are maintained at the pu-blick expence. Adjoining to the mofque is a large hall, where alms is daily diftributcd to the poor. Few christians are admitted into this facred place. The ambaiTador, however with a few of the retinue^ obtained this favour. Koom is famous for manufacturing the befl blades, in all Persia, for fibres and poinards. The 27th, we travelled from koom,, five agatz to kassim-abbat, a confiderablc village, where we lodged. The weather now began to be fo hot that we could travel only in the morning and evening. On the 28th, after travelling fix agatz, we came to siNNBzvN, another village. Here our huntfman caught a porcupine, and brought it home alive. March iff, we arrived at a place called kashan,. fix agatz from the former. At fome diflance we- were TO ISPAHAN. 91 were met by the doroga, or judge, attended by a- chap. v. bout fifty horfemen. He came to falute the am- 1717. baffador, and conducted him to his lodgings. The houfe belonged to the Shach, and was pleafantly fituated in the middle of a fine garden, planted with various kinds of fruit trees. K ash an is a large and populous city; it is fituated in a fertile plain, which fecures plenty of all nc-ceffaries, and contains feveral well built mofques and caravanferies. The market place is well furnifhed with merchandife of different kinds. The common manufactures of persia are found here; viz. filk and cotton fluffs, carpets, befides fome other articles, which make this a place of confiderablc trade. This city is much peflered with fcorpions, efpe-cially the black kind, reckoned the molt venomous. Their fling proves mortal in a few days, nay, even hours, if proper remedies be not applied. The cure ufed by the Persians, is to anoint the wound with the oil of thefe animals, extracted by frying. Of this oil they have generally a quantity in referve. If it is wanting, they bruife any fcorpion and apply it to the part affected. Either of thefe remedies, M 2 taken -}i A JOURNEY ctiap.v. taken in due time, fcldom fail of fuccefs. The l7l7- rf.Rsians have fuch a dread of thefe creatures, that, when provoked by any perfon, they widi a kashan fcorpion may fling him. They are the more terrible, as few houfes are free from them; for moft of the floors being of earth, and covered with carpets or mats, below thefe the fcorpions find or make holes for themfelves, where they lurk unfeen. They do not indeed often hurt, unlcfs touched fuddenly. It is advifable for all travellers to examine diligent-ly .the place where they arc to lleep, before they go to bed. As the fcorpion is well known, it will be unnceeliary to fay any more of it. The 5th, wc reached buz abbatt, five agatz from k ash an. The weather was very hot. At this place I faw a creature called the stcllio, or tarantula, and by the PERSIANS inkurcck; it is in fhape and fize fomewhat like a large fpider, but overgrown with hair. I was informed that it neither flings nor bites, but drops its venom upon the skin, which is of fuch a nature that it immediately penetrates into the body, and caufes dreadful fymptoms; fuch as giddinefs of the head, a violent pain in the ftomach, and T O I S P A H A N. 01 and a lethargick ftupifaction. The remedy, as in chap. v. the former cafe, is the application of the fame ami- 1717-mal, when bruifed, to the part, by which the poifon is extracted. They alfo make the patient drink a-bundance of fweet milk, after which he is put in a kind of tray, fufpended by ropes fixed in the four corners, it is turned round till the ropes are twilled hard together, and, when let go at once, the untwining caufes the basket to turn round, with a quick motion, which forces the patient to vomit. They alfo make them dance to mufical in ft rumen ts, which the fick perfon fometimes does of his own accord, till he drops down upon the fpot. One of thefe terrible creatures happened to fall out of the cieling upon my hand, as I was going one night to bed; I fhook it off inftantaneoufly without receiving the leaf! harm. Every thing near was moved, and fearched for it, but to no purpofe, there being many holes in the floor. It may eafily be imagined that apprehenfion would prevent my fleeping much that night. The 6th, we travelled five or fix agatz to kal-yabbatt; and the next day five, to nattanee, a final! A JOURNEY . v. fmall town fituated under fome high mountains. 7* Here the Shach has a pretty little palace, with gardens, fountains of fine water, and cafcades. We lodged in the palace. The jackals were fo bold that they howled under the windows all the night long, and carried off fome of our poultry. On the top of a mountain, near this place, Hands a high tower, built by shach abbass, which is feen at a great diffancc. The 8th, we left nattanee, and in three hours paffed a fine houfe, with gardens, built by shach abbass, and fituated by itfelf in a pleafmt plain. About three hours after, we came to tutrin, an old caravanfery, where we lodged. The heat in-creafed daily as we advanced to the fouth. The orh, we reached ruck, eight agatz diffant from tutrin, and four hours journey from the city of Ispahan. The ioth, being the vernal equinox, when the new year commences among the Persians, we halted all day. In the evening thirty fine horfes, with rich furniture, were fent from the Shach's ftables to the ambaffador; fome of the bridles were ornamented with TO ISPAHAN. £3 with gold, others with fdver. Two lions were chap. v. brought by a Persian to be ihown to the ambaffii- I7I7* dor. They were led into a court-yard, and let loofe upon a goat; but, inftead of the goat, they ran at fome of our people, who narrowly efcaped by getting into a houfe and (hutting the doors. It feems the fight of fo many Arrangers had frightened them, for the keeper himfelf with difficulty chained them,, and one of them even bit his hand. The 11 th, we advanced two agatz, to davilett-abbatt a village. On the morning of the 1 3 th the Maymander Ba-fha, or chief conductor, arrived v/ith many attendants. In the evening we mounted, and, being accompanied with a numerous train of courtiers, and other people, we travelled two agatz to the fuburbs of the city, where we lodged in a palace, called TUchtzy, belonging to the Shach. The 14th, in the morning, came a number of horfes fufficient for the ambaflador and all his train; this being the day appointed for our publick entry. About noon the maymander bafha returned to conduct the ambaiTador to his lodgings in the city, he- 96 A JOURNEY chap. v. he was attended by many perfons of diftinction. l7l> After noon, we mounted and entered the city. We pafTed through many ffreets crouded with fpec-tators, as were alfo the tops of the houfes. It was faid that the Sophy himfelf was at a window, incognito, with fome of his ladies. Curiofity had caufed fuch a croud, that, had not the way been cleared by the Persian guards, it would have been impoifible for us to pafs along. At laft, we reached the end of our journey; a noble palace, in the middle of the city, with a garden, three courts, and apartments fufficient for the ambaiTador and all his retinue. the order of the entry. An officer. Three dragoons. A kettle-drum. Four trumpets. Thirty dragoons, three abreaft, with drawn fwords. Six fpare horfes with fumptuous trappings. The fleward. Twelve footmen. Two pages. Three TO I S P A H A N. 97 Three footmen. chap. v. Two interpreters. l7l7* Two hey-dukes in hungaPvIan habits. The ambaiTador, with the maymander, baiha and interpreter. The prieft and one gentleman. Myfelf and one gentleman. Two clerks. Faulconers, huntfmen, &c. CHAPTER VI Occurrences during our Jlay at Ispahan. rFHE 15th, the agents of the English and dutch factories, vtz, Mr. cop pin the English agent, fent Meffieurs batson and reynard-son, the dutch agent likewife fent two gentlemen of their company, to falute the ambaiTador. The 16th, the maymander baiha invited the ambaiTador to an audience of the Etmadowlett, or prime minifter, which he would not comply with till he had an audience of the Shach, and delivered his cre- Vol. I. N den- A JOURNEY vi. dcntials, though it is ufual firft to take an audience 7* of that minifler. This day i vifited the English factory, where i met with a friendly reception. On the 27th wras a great fall of rain, fuch as had not been at Ispahan for feven years. It was the caufe of great joy in this fultry dry climate, chough to me it (cemcd nothing extraordinary. April id, i went to julffa to fee a friend, accompanied by Mr. batson. It is a large place in the fuburbs, inhabited by Armenians, who have the free exercife of the christian religion. On the ioth, i dined at the dutch houfe, the weather very hot. May 4th, the ceremonial part of the ambafla-dor's introduction to the Shach being previoufly a-greed on, he was this day to have his fir ft audience. In the morning horfes were fent from the King's, (tables, all of them magnificently equipped, with grooms to attend them; many of the faddles and bridles were garniihed with gold and filver. We marched in the fame order as at our entry above mentioned, only the dragoons had not their fwords drawn.. After parting through fcveral (beets we TO ISPAHAN. 99 we came into the great market place called bazar, chap. vr. and then to a gate called alla-capy, /. c. god's- 1.717. gate, where we difmounted. Acrofs this gate is hung a chain, and none are permitted to enter on horfe-back, except the Shach himfelf. We walked through the guards, drawn up on each fide, to an inner court, and thence to an arched gate, furroun-ded with benches, and fpread with carpets. Here the ambaflador was defined to fit down till the Shach was ready to receive him. We waited at leaft two hours, during which time all the miniftcrs of ftate, and officers of the houfhold, palTcd us in great ftate. After them came a large elephant, mounted by his keeper, and adorned with gold and (ilvcr Muff; then two large lions, led by their keepers with chains of ma fly gold. When this parade was over, an officer informed the ambaflador that the Shach waited for him. Whereupon, proceeding immediately through the gate, we entered a fpacious garden. The firft thing that prefented was a noble view of twenty horfes Handing in a row, richly caparifoncd, having all their faddles and bridles ornamented with gold and . N 2 filvci\ ioo A JOURNEY chap. vi. filver, and fome of them fct with faphircs, emeralds*, 1717* and other precious (tones of meat value. The hor-fcs were all tied to a rope fixed to the ground, at the extremities, by a flake of gold, near which lay a mallet of the fame metal for driving it, according to the cudom of per si a; the hind-feet were alfo fattened to a rope, to prevent kicking: this is an excellent precaution; for, though they were all (toned horfes, they could neither hurt one another, nor any thin2 elfe: the chains that bound their hind-feet, with the (lakes, and mallets were alfo of gold. The Persian horfes are well managed; neither do I think them fo vicious as thofe in Europe: whether they are naturally more gentle I fhall not determine, perhaps it is intircly owing to the milder treatment of their grooms. At each end of the row (food a large vcflcl of gold full of water, for the horfes to drink. Approaching nearer to the hall of audience, we paffed the two lions, chained to the ground, one on each (ide of the paffage, near them were placed two bafons of gold, filled with water for drink. Next to the lions flood the elephant, with his keeper on his back. As the ambaflador paffed, both the lions couch- TO ISPAHAN. roi couched, and the elephant bent his fore- knee, at a chap. vi. word pronounced by the keepers. l7l7m Wc now turned to the left, and had a full view of the hall of audience, about an hundred yards diftant. It feemcd to Hand by itfelf in the middle of the garden; it is indeed contiguous to the fera-glio, on the fouth, but is quite open to the north. Before the entry is a large fountain of pure water, which fprings upward in three pipes, and falls into a bafon filled with rofes, jeffamine, and many other fine flowers. When we came, to the (lair we were defired to put off our flippers, and our fcrvants were no farther admitted. The ambaffador only and fix of his retinue (among whom I was) entered the hall. We. afcended by eight fteps of marble, the whole breadth of the hall. From the roof hung a canvafs which was ftretched out over the flair, and (haded the. whole infide of the edifice. The hall is a fpacious fquare building, with a terrace roof. The deling. 15 very magnificent, being all arched, and fet with mirrours of different magnitudes till within three feet of the floor; which is quite covered with filk- car- A JOURNEY vi. carpets, interwoven with branches, and foliage, of 7' gold and fdver. In the middle were two bafons, into which feveral pipes, each about eight feet high, fpouted water, which, falling upon roles and other flowers, has a fine effect on a hot day. The farther end of the hall is a femicircle. Here fat the Shach upon a fofa, raifed about a foot from the floor, which was elevated four lteps above the reft of the hall. He was attended by twenty eunuchs; one carried his fabre, another his bow, a third the quiver with arrows, a fourth the calianne, or tobacco pipe, fo that each had his office of ftate. The ambaflador was received in the hall by the mafter of the ceremonies, called Iih-aggan Baiha, to be by him introduced to the Shach. He continued fitting upon his fofa, with his legs acrofs, while all his minifters of ftate flood in their places, clothed magnificently in their robes; which they never wear, except on folemn days; and when thefe are over they leave them in a wardrobe at court, appointed for keeping them. I muff confefs the appearance was very fplendid, and put me in mind of TO ISPAHAN. roj of the accounts left us by the ancients, of the mag- chap. vi. nificence of the Kings of persia, 1717. At our entry into the hall we were flopped about three minutes at the fir ft fountain, in order to raife the greater refpec~b, the pipes were contrived to play fo high that the water fell into the bafon like a thick rain. Nothing could be diftinguifhed for fome time, and the Shach himfelf appeared as in a fog. While we moved forward, every thing was as ft ill as death. The mafter of the ceremonies took the ambaiTador by the arm and conducted him within fix yards of the throne, who, offering to advance, in order to deliver his credentials, was prevented by the etmadowlett, or prime minifter. This minifter received the credentials, and laid them before the Shach, who touched them with his hand, as a mark of refpect. This part of the ceremony had been very difficult to adjuft. For the ambaf fador infifted on delivering his letters into the Shach's own hands. The Persian minifters, on the other hand, affirmed, that their Kings never received letters directly, from the ambaifadors of the greateft emperors on earth. The 104 A JOURNEY chap. vi. The ambaiTador now made a fhort fpeech, which 1717- the Sophy anfwered, through the Etmadowlett, in very obliging terms. He then enquired after his Czariih Majeftys health, and asked fcveral queftions about the savedish war; and whether the ambaflador had fuffcred any hardlhips on the road during fo long a journey? To all which he returned an-fvvcrs fuitablc to the occafion. At laft, he was defir-ed to take his feat, to which he was led by the mailer of the ceremonies. It was about a foot high, and placed at the diftance of ten yards from the King. A little behind the ambaflador were placed his attendants, on feats nearly of the fame height. During all this ceremony, mufick played; confifting of a variety of infhumcnts, which are not unharmonious, and the mufty, or high-prieft, read, without inter-in iffion, chapters of the Koran. Before the ambaflador was feated, the prefents from his Czarifh Majefty to the Sophy, carried by fifty men, were brought to the entry, and received by the proper officers. They confifted of fables, and other valuable furrs, falcons, a variety of fine tea, mufical clocks, gold-watches fet in diamonds, &c. As TO I S P A II A N. 105 As foon as the ambaiTador had taken his feat, all ghap.vl the miniflers of ftate fate down on their hams, on l*IlJ* both fides of the hall, in rows; for none arc allowed to fit crofs legged in prefencc of the Sophy. There was now placed before the company little tables, on which were fet all kinds of fwect-meats, and confections; and before the ambaflador was laid, a golden calianne, or tobacco-pipe; which the Persians reckon an high inftance of refpect The mufick continued playing, and the mufty ftill continued reading; but every thing elfe was very fi-lent. Several meflages pafled between the King and the ambaflador, by means of the mafter of the ceremonies, and our interpreter. The King fpokc the Persian language, and the ambaiTador the Russian, while the other two ufed the Turkish, In the mean time fome pure water, with a bit of ice in it, was brought in golden bafons to drink. About an hour after, victuals were brought by a number of fcrvants, who carried them on their heads, in large fquare baskets. Firft the Shach was fcrved, and next the ambaffador with his retinue, then all the officers of ftate that fit in the hall. Vol. I. O The A J O U R N E Y chap. vi. The Grand (reward of the houfhold waited on the o ^J^T^King, and his affiftants on the reft of the company, according to their different ranks. At the fame time our fervants were entertained in the garden. The entertainment confifted moftly of different kinds of rice boiled with butter, fowls, mutton, boiled and roafted lamb. The whole was ferved in large gold or china difhes, and placed in the baskets, which flood on a long cloth fpread above the carpet. The difhes were interfperfed with faucers filled with aromatic herbs, fugar and vinegar. But, according to the cuftom of the country, we had neither napkins, fpoons, knives nor forks; for the Shach himfelf eat with his fingers, and every one followed his example. There were indeed, befides the common bread, fome very large thin cakes, which we ufed in (lead of napkins, to wipe our lingers. They are made of wheat-flower, the Persians fometimes eat them, they are not difagreeable. Our drink was fherbet, and water cooled with ice. Formerly it was ufual, on fuch occafions, to drink wine, and have women to dance and fing. But the prefent Sophy, being a fober and devout prince, thought T O I S P A H A N. 107 thought it proper to aboliflh a cuftom productive of chap. vr. fo many indecencies, and directly contrary to the I717a rules of the Koran. We had therefore only men to fing, and no dancing. The ambaiTador, and all the gentlemen who were admitted into the hall, continued with their heads covered during all the time of the audience. They only, on entering the royal prefencc, uncovered once and bowed to his majefty. When the entertainment was over, the ambaflador took his leave and returned to his lodgings, conducted by the maymander bafha, in the fame manner as in the morning. The ftreets were lined with the Sophy's guards to prevent any inconvenience from the vail crouds of people. The fame evening the Shach fent a prefent to the ambaflador of the eolden calianne he had ufed at court; it was neatly wrought in filigree, and valued at forty or fifty pounds Sterling: alfo twenty large difhes of folid gold, filled with variety of fweet-meats. Thofe who brought them returned immediately, leaving the plate; which remained at the ambafladors lodgings above fix weeks. All this O 2 time loS A J O U R N E Y chap, vis time it was uncertain whether fuch a valuable trea-1717- fure was forgot, or intended as a prefent. The dimes however were at laft demanded, and delivered. They weighed about thirty pounds a-piccc; but were of mean workmanmip, being all beat out with a hammer. From this, and many fimilar inflances, fome conception may be formed of the immenfe riches whereof the Sophy is pofTefled. The Shach's name is hussein-, he is about thirty years of age, of a middle flature, open countenance, and has a fhort black beard. It is faid his legs are remarkably fhort, in proportion to his body. He is very good natured, and of a beneficent difpo-iition. He has feveral children by different ladies. Tachm \ z the olderl, at prefent in his minority, fel-dom appears out of the haram. FIcjssein himfelf, though a prince adorned with many virtues, yet being educated in the EAR AM among the women, is little accyuaintcd with the world, and leaves the management of the empire wholly to his minifters: in them he places an intire confidence*, and they, in their turn, pcrfuadc him, that it is below his dignity to attend to any publick affairs whatever. At this TO ISPAHAN. 109 this very time there was a formidable rebellion be- chap.vi. gun at chandahar, a ftrong town on the borders I7i7-of India, by mery-majimut, an cnterprifing and powerful chief, who took advantage of the weak-ncfs of the prefent adminiftration.. The Persian miniftry neglected and defpifed thefe rebels, threatning, in their flile, to fend fome troops to cut them all to pieces. Time hath Ifiown the vanity of thefe high words. I muft obferve that they wanted neither men nor money; but their fol-dicrs were undifciplined, and, above all, they had no officers of fufficient abilities to command them. The 9th of May, the ambaflador had his firft audience of the Etmadowlett. We were conducted in the fame manner as when we went to court. The entertainment was likewife of the fame kind, but much more magnificent. The palace, was grand, and had a fine garden adjoining. The Etmadowlett, whofe name is phataly-ciian, was by birth a Georgian, of christian parents, but educated in the feraglio. He is a tall well fhaped man, of a friendly afpect, and a great favourite of the Sophy. After we returned home, the Etmadowlett fent the ambaf- ho A JOURNEY chap.vl ambaiTador a prefent of a fine horfe, with a faddle 1717- and bridle, richly mounted, after the Persian fafhi-on, and a gold calianne, little inferior to that given by the Shach. It was reported that no foreign ambaiTador had ever been treated with fo much re-fpect. The 11 th, the ambaiTador had a fecond audience of the Sophy, at the fame palace as formerly, called tavalea telear, /. e. the palace near the ftables; it was very fhort, and no entertainment was given. Next day he received from the Shach a prefent of fome excellent sherass wine, and a gold bottle, that contained about two quarts, with a fmall cup of the fame metal. On the 15th the ambaiTador had a fecond audience of the Etmadowlett, relating to the fubject. of the embaffy. Three days after, the Hackim Baiha, or chief phy-fician, fent me an invitation to vifit him. He received me in a very courteous obliging manner; and detained me above two hours, talking on different fubjects. He told me that the phyflcians in Persia made vegetables, and their virtues, their chief fludy; they TO ISPAHAN. tin they dealt but little in minerals and chymical pre-chap. vi. parations. Then he asked me whether the EVRO' ^^2^j pean phyficians admitted opium in their prefcripti-ons? I told him they did with great fuccefs. To which he replied, that the qualities of that drug were known to very few. He inquired whence tea came? how it mould be made? and what were its virtues? All which I anfwered to his fatisfaction. Hence it is evident that the Persians have no cor-refpondcnce nor commerce with the Chinese, The phyfician is an elderly man, of a grave deportment, and might pafs for a doctor any where. On taking, my leave, he told me he was forry he could not converfe with me but by means of an interpreter,, which was tedious and difagreeable. The fame day the dutch commifiary Myn-heer vonkettler, made his publick entry at Ispahan, as envoy from the governor of bat a via to the Shach of Persia, He was preceded by fix elephants, fent as a prefent to the King by the governor. He had a numerous retinue; and was attended by fevers1 gentlemen, and made as grand an appearance as if he had been a minifter from any court of Europe.. He ■112 ;A JOURNEY chap. vi. He took up his lodgings at the dutch factory. l717- Mr. kkttlkr told me, that he was born in cour-land; that, in his youth, he inlifted as a foldier in the fervice of the dutch east-india company; by his uncommon abilities he had raifed himfelf, from that low lituation, to the honourable place he now held. The following day Mr. kettler fent two of his retinue to compliment our ambaflador. And, both our gentlemen being indifpofed, i was fent next day to return the compliment. The 28th, i dined at the dutch houfe, where we had a grand entertainment. June 2d, the ambaffador intended to go a hunting, and to take a view of the country about Ispahan. But an officer came from court, dclirin^ him to delay it till another opportunity; for the Shach had pitched on that, day to vifit a country-houfe, in company with his ladies; on which occafions it is death for any one to be feen near the place where tlje court paffes. To prevent accidental tranfgref-fions in this refpeet, a cryer is previoufly difpatched to warn the inhabitants, who proclaims through the flreets. TO ISPAHAN. 113 ftreets, and along the road, that nobody under pain chap. vl of death (hall appear either in the way, or from any ^J^I^f houfe near it, by which his majefty and the ladies are to march. The Shach rides on horfe-back, attended only by eunuchs. The ladies are mounted aftride, fome on horfes, others on mules and affes. They are all vailed with white muflin; fo that nothing can be feen of them but the eyes and nofe. The Persians tell a pleafant ftory of shach abbass s behaviour on an occalion of this nature. The Shach at a certain time was riding along, attended by his concubines, when he happened to meet a poor country fellow upon the road. He was in> mediately brought before the King, and, expecting inftant death, fell on his knees, mod fubmiffively begging pardon for fo heinous an offence, and pleaded ignorance in his excufe; having neither feen nor heard of any cryer. The prince was pleafed with the fimplicity and innocence of the peafant, ordered him to take courage, and all the ladies to unveil; then defired him to pick out any of his concubines he liked bed, and he fhould have her for a wife. This treatment difpclled his fear; he pitched on one Vol. I. P that. it 4 A JOURNEY chap. vi. thac pleated, him moil. The Shach approved fb l7l7- much of his tafte, that he carried him to court; where he foon became a great favourite. The Qth, I dined at the English factory, where Mr. coppin, and the other gentlemen belonging to the company, received me in the moil friendly manner. The day was very hot, and in the evening we fupped near a fountain in the garden. On a fud-den we felt a guff of wind, as hot as if it had come from the mouth of an oven. It was foon over without any bad effect. But I was informed that thefe hot winds are very dangerous, in travelling over the defcrts, and often kill people immediately. The only refourcc, on perceiving them coming, is to fall down flat, with the face to the ground, and continue in that pofture till they are gone. On the i 2th, the ambaflador had a third audience of the Shach at farrabbatt, a country-houfe near the city. It is an extremely pleafant place, adorned with gardens, fountains and cafcades, fur-rounded with parks for all kinds of game. While we were at fupper on the terrace, we had a fqual of wind which almoif carried away every thing, and actual- TO ISPAHAN. lit actually fwept off the thin broad cakes, which the chap. vr. Persians ufe inftead of napkins. I7I7° The 16th, Monfieur ricard, whom I mentioned at tauris, and twelve miflionaries of different orders, were invited to dine with the ambaflador. Several of thefe gentlemen had been long in india, and Ethiopia; which rendered their convention very entertaining. The 2 iff, the ambaflador was invited to dinner by the Devettar, or keeper of the great feal and flandilh. Here, as in all other countries, this is an office of great truft. We were entertained with more magnificence than by the prime minifter, or even at court. Soon after we entered, there were ferved up a great variety of fweet-meats, and all kinds of fruit that the climate afforded. Coffee and iherbett were carried about by turns. We were placed crofsdegged on the carpets, except the ambaffador, who had a feat. During this part of the feaft we were entertained with vocal and inftrumen* tal mufick, dancing-boys, tumblers, puppets and juglers: all the performers executed their parts with great dexterity. Two of them counterfeiting a P 2 quaa> A JOURNEY vi. quarrel, one beat off the other's turban with his 7' foot, out of which dropped about fifteen or twenty large fcrpents, which run or crawled about the room. One of them came towards me, with great fpeed, which foon obliged me to quit my place. On feeing us alarmed they told us the creatures were altogether inoffenfive, as their teeth had been all drawn out. The fellow went about the room and gathered them again into his turban, like fo many eels. The victuals were now fcrved in a neat and elegant manner. Every thing was well drefled in the Persian fafhion. Our hod was very chearful, and contributed every thing in his power to plcafe his guefts. He excufed himfelf handfomely enough for not having wine, as it was not then ufed at. court. On the 23d, the Maymander Bafha brought a mcffiigc from the Shach to the ambaflador, intimating, that the bufinefs of his embafly being now ft-nifhed, he might chufe his own time to depart. This was not very agreeable news to the ambaflador; who alledged, that, before he could procure Hupping, to tranfport him to astrachan, the fea- fon. TO ISPAHAN, fon would be far advanced, and oblige him to winter in fome part of Persia. July lit, the Shach fent the ambaffador, and the principal perfons of his retinue, what the Persians call the kalatt. It confills of a tunic, a long robe of gold and fdver fluff, a fafh and turban, and fome pieces of Persian filk; whereof about ten or a dozen fell to my fhare. The whole value was not confiderablc; but the Shach bellows this mark of favour to all foreign miniflers, who come on friendly errands. On this occafion he fent the ambaffidor, in particular, a prefent of two fine horfes from his own flablcs. The 3d, the ambaffador had his laft audience of the Shach, at a palace in the city; when he received an anfwer to the Czars letter, and immediately took leave Handing, without further ceremony. The 8th, the Shach fent the ambaiTador another prefent; confiding of an elephant, two lions, two leopards, fix monkeys of different kinds, three parrots* two white and one green, three fine horfes, and an Indian, bird, called myana; it is in colour, fhape, and Ii8 A JOURNEY chap. vi. and fize like a black-bird, and whittled a very fine note. Auguft the 3d, we began to prepare for our journey homeward, which took up much time. The 18 th, we removed from our lodgings in the city to a houfe belonging to the Shach, in the northern fuburbs, called tauchtzy. The 26th, I took leave of my friend Mr. coppin, who fet out this day on his journey to England, by way of aleppo. The English factory at Ispahan are very well fituated in the middle of the city, have a fpacious garden adjoining, and are feparated from the reft of the town by a wall. Moft of the great houfes in the city are furrounded in the fame manner, which renders it very extenfive. Ispahan is fituated nearly in thirty two degrees north latitude, on a fruitful plain, in the province of hierack, anciently the kingdom of the parthi-ans. About three or four English miles diftant from the city, to the fouth, runs an high ridge of mountains from eaft to weft. Shach abbass the Great transferred the feat of the Persian government from casbin to this place. Ispa- TO ISPAHAN. 119 Ispahan is plentifully fupplied with water from chap. vi. the river schenderoo, which runs between the city I/M7» and the fuburbs, keeping its courfe to the north. It rifes near the city, and is fordable almoft every where, unlefs during great rains, which feldom happen. After paffing this place, its courfe is but fhort, for it foon lofes itfelf in dry parched plains. Over the schenderoo there are three ftately ftone brido--es in fight of one another; but the one in the middle, betwixt the city and that part of the fuburbs called julpha, which terminates the fpacious ftreet tzar-bach, far exceeds any ftructure of that kind I ever faw. It is broad enough for two carriages and a horfeman to pafs abreaft, and has galleries on each fide, which are covered, for the convenience of people on foot; and watch-men arc fta-tioned at each end to prevent diforders. There are few houfes in the town which have not their chaufes, /. e. cifterns of water, conveyed in pipes from the river: a moft falutary and refreftiing cir-cumftance in fuch a dry and fultry climate. The city is populous, and, as I already obferved, very extenlive. As moft of the inhabitants have their 120 A JOURNEY chap. vi. their houfes apart, furrounded with gardens, planr> ^7^7^ ed with fruit and other trees, at a diftance it appears like a city in a foreft, and affords a very agreeable profpect. The flreets are generally very narrow and irregular, except that leading to the great bridge, already mentioned. This noble ftreet is very broad and flraight, and near an English mile in length. On each fide are the King's palaces, courts of juftice, and the academies for the education of youth, with two rows of tall chinar trees, which afford a fine made. Thefe trees have a fmooth whitifh bark, and a broad leaf like the plane-tree. At certain diftances there are fountains of water that play continually, round which are fpread carpets; and thither the Persians refort to drink coffee, fmoak tobacco, and hear news: which, I muft confcfs, is very agreeable in hot weather. About half a mile below the city is a fine plain upon the bank of the river, where the Persians, every evening, exercife their horfes in riding, and accuftom them to the difcharge of fire-arms. They alfo fhoot at butts with bows and arrows, and throw blunt- TO ISPAHAN. 121 blunted darts at one another; at which they appear chap. vr. very dextrous. s^VXj The city is almoft quite defencelefs, having only a flight wall round it, built of mud dried by the fun, which is broken down in many places: fo that, if the army is defeated in the field, Ispahan cannot defend itfelf one day; for even all the artillery I faw, confifted of about twenty brafs cannon, which ftood in the grand court before the palace gate, and were more for parade than real ufe. The houfes here, as in other places of Persia, are generally built with bricks hardened by the fun. The roofs are flat, and covered with a terrace; they make but a mean appearance from the ftreet, though within they are neat and clean; and very convenient for the Persian manner of life. The Shach's palaces, the publick edifices, and the houfes of all perfons of diftincrion, are built with ftone. As the ftreets are not paved, when it is windy, the city is fometimes involved in fuch a cloud of duft, that the fun is fcarcely vifible. This obliges the inhabitants to water the ftreets, at leaft every evening. Thefe gufts of wind are very difagreeable; Vol. I. but A J O U R N E Y vi. but they happen feldom, and are of fhort duration., 7- Ac Ispahan are many manufactories of filk and' cotton, and a great many filk-worms in the neighbourhood. As theconfumption of filk is very considerable at this place, little of it is exported. The making carpets, however, employs the greateft number of hands; for which the demand is great, as they are preferable in quality, defign, and colour to any made elfcwhere. The fields about the city are very fertile, and produce plentiful crops of excellent wheat and barley; but then they muff all be watered on account of the drynefs of the foil, which is a work of labour and expence: befides thefe I faw no other grain. The Persians tread out their corn with oxen or allcs: for this purpofe they make a circle, about twenty or thirty feet in diameter, on the circumference whereof the f haves are laid; there is a li^ht fledge or hurdle drawn.by the cattle, in which the driver fits and directs them round and round, as often as is neceffary; and new fhaves are always added when the former ones are trodden fufficiently: This operation alfo foftens the flraw, and renders it TO ISPAHAN, it very good provender; there is no hay in Persia, chap and the belt horfes are kept in a condition for any 17 fervice by this food, and a fmall quantity of dryed barley twice a day. They have flocks of large fhecp, whereof the mutton is very good, but the wool coarfe. In the province of karamenia indeed they have exceeding fine wool, fome of which I have feen little inferior to filk. Their horned cattle are buffalos; which afford them milk, and are ufed in plowing the ground and drawing carriages. They have alfo the common kind of cattle of different fizes. The better fort of people eat chiefly mutton and fowls, but very little beef. Befides the cattle I have mentioned, there is another kind, having a high rifing upon the fhouldcr, with clean limbs, which are very handfome. As I have formerly obferved, that the Persians make ufe of ice to cool their water in fummer, it may be asked, where are got fuch quantities, in fo hot a climate, as are daily fold in the flrcets, for that purpofe? I was informed, that there were people who made it their bufinefs to watch the frofty 2 nights, 124 A JOURNEY chap. vi. nights, in the winter fcafon; on which occasions they k?1?- went to the mountains near the city, and threw water on certain places, which being frozen, they continued to repeat the operation till the ice was of convenient thicknefs; then they cut it in pieces, and carry it into caves, hewn in the rocks, where it is-preferved during the fummer; what they cannot carry off before the fun rifes is covered, to defend k from his heat. While I remained at Ispahan, I vifited the Shach's aviary. It contains a great variety of all kinds of•• birds, many of which had come from india, and o-tlier foreign parts. Among the reft were a couple-of turkeys, which it feems are rare birds in Persia. The place is very neat and elegant; the aviary is about fifteen feet high, and covered with a net-work.-of brafs-wire, to prevent the birds flying away. Provifions of all kinds are very dear at Ispahan, which is fuificiently apparent from the number of poor that go about the ftreets. Nothing however is fo extravagantly high as fire-wood. The roman catholics have three convents in ;he city; viz, thofe of the carmelites, capuchins, and- TO ISPAHAN. I25> and augustins. The jesuits and Dominicans chap, vi,.. have their feparate convents in the fuburbs of jul- 1717. pha, which is inhabited by Armenians, who are allowed the free exercife of their religion. There is a confiderable number of jews in the city, who are cither merchants or mechanics. In the neighbourhood of the city is a tribe of people, called by the Persians giaur, who worfhip fire, being the pofterity of the ancient inhabitants of this country, who paid divine honours to that element. They are a poor indolent race, and live in nafty hues, or in tents. They fpeak a different language from the Persian; have black hair, and are of a fwar thy complexion. They have fome Iheep and cattle; but many of them go about the ftreets begging. About three or four miles to the fouth ward of the city, are to be feen the ruins of a tower on the top of a mountain, where, it is faid, darius fat when? Alexander the Great fought the fecond battle with, the Persians. I was alfo told, that about two days journey from Ispahan, are diftinguifhable the remains of the tomb of Qkieen Esther, a latly celebrated I 126 A JOURNEY chap. vi. brated in holy writ for many virtues. Thefe, and 1717* many other places, I intended to have examined on the fpot, but was unluckily prevented for want of time. While we lay at tauchtzy, waiting for horfes and camels, two of our fervants were Hung with fcorpions; but were foon cured, by timely application of the oil of fcorpions, prepared after the Persian manner, without any other remedy. The jackals made a difmal howling under our windows every night. I have now finifhed my obfervations on whatever feemed moft remarkable in, and about the city of Ispahan. I fhall only add, that, among the many lofty and pompous titles which this mighty monarch affumes, there are fome very extraordinary, of which I fhall mention one, ' That the greateft kings of the ' earth may think it an honour to drink out of his 4 horfes footfteps.' Several more inftanccs might be given, in the Oriental ftile, fully as extravagant. THE T O I S P A H A N. 127 the shaghs palaces. chap. vi. 1. tzel sootun, or that of forty pillars. 1717* 2. tevela telear, near the ftables. 3. hasta-behasi, chambers of paradife. 4. othiat tallard, near the haram. 5. culdesta, houfe of eunuchs. 6. tauchtzy, at the north entry. 7. farrabbatt, fouth eaft from the city. Persia is at prefent divided into fixteen provinces, many of them of great extent. I fhall mention their prefent names, and, oppofite to them, thofe they feem to have born among the ancients. modern names. ancient.. 1. turkomania,, great armenia. 2. diarbeck, mesopotamia. 3. kurdistan, part of assyria. a, hierack arabee, chaldea, Or babylon. 5. hierack ag gem y, region of the parthians. 6. shirvan, towards the north-weft coaft of the Caspian fea. 7. guilanandmesan-~) > iiyrcania. deran, j 8. astrabatt, m arc i an a. o. U3- 128 chap. vi. 1717. modern names. 9- usbeck, 10. korassan, 11. sablestan, 12. sicistan, arachosia. 14. machran. *5- karamenia, 16. pharsistan, JOURNEY ancient* bactria, aria. parapomisia. drang iana. reaching to the gulph of or-mus. old persia, whereof perse-polis was the capital city. Ihave added the ancient names according to the belt information I could procure; for, under the various revolutions of this country, the records have been almoft wholly either loft or deftroyed: fo that the Persians themfelves know very little of the ancient hiftory of their country. CHAP. TO I S P A H A N. CHAPTER VII. Fro?n Ispahan to shamachy; Occurrences during our ft ay there. P TEMB ER i ft, having procured horfes and •camels, and every thing ncceftary, and having alfo got a conductor from the Shach, we this day left Ispahan in order to return to Russia. We travelled fhort ftages along the fame road by which we came to Ispahan. Little material happened for a confiderable time, and I fhall not repeat what I formerly obferved; I fhall only take notice, that many of the places, through which we palled, were much infefted by ftrong gangs of high-way men. We were therefore obliged to travel very cautioufly, and to keep our people together, near the baggage; but particularly to procure a fafe caravanfery for qui lodgings. The weather continuing very hot, was the reafon of our making cafy marches; and thefe chiefly in the mornings and evenings, and fometimes in the night, when it could be done with fafety. Vol. I. R We A JOURNEY vir. We travelled in this manner till the 26th of Sep-7* tembcr, when we arrived at a village called arra-zant, where we lodged. Next day, inflead of pur-fuing the fame route by tauris, we turned to the right and took the road leading to casbin and gui- lan. The 27th, we proceeded five agatz to membe-reck; and the 28th four, to the city of casbin. This place is fituated in a fp'acious plain, having a-ridge of high mountains to the north. I mentioned formerly, that casbin was once the feat of government, and the refidence of the Persian monarch's. There are flill to be feen the ruins of many (lately mofques, palaces^ and other publick edifices. The city appears to have been, in former times, very large and flourifhing, but is now much contracted and decayed. The plague raged here all the preceeding fum-mer, which had almoft depopulated the place. And although the fury of that contagious diftemper was much abated, people continued to die daily; which made us rcfolve to remain no longer than was absolutely neceffary, in order to prepare things for ouir jour- to ispahak 1j l journey to guilan. This could not be loon ac-CHAP.vn. compliihed at a time of fuch publick calamity. vJ^v^xj In the mean time, many of our people were feiz-ed with peftilential fevers, who all recovered but one. He died fuddenly, with the ufual fymptoms of the plague. I and feveral of our people were likewife taken with fevers, occafioned by our being lodged in houfes where the Persians had lately died. Thefe circumftances made the ambaiTador refolve to leave the place at all events. During the time therefore which we were obliged to wait for horfes and camels, we removed out of town about a mile, to a garden belonging to the Shach, provided for us by the commandant of the city and province. Here we fet up our tents; and in this situation, by the help of free air and good water, our people recovered furpriftngly: fo that, in a Jhort time, mod of them were able-to ride, another gentleman only and myfclf were carried in litters between two mules. The i 2 th of October, we fet out again, purfuing our journey northward. After travelling about two leagues through a plain, we afcended an high and R 2 ffeep 1:3:2- A JOURNEY chap. vh. fleep mountain, and, proceeding onward about a 1717- league, came to a fmall village where we lodged. All the inhabitants had forfaken their houfes. Whatever elfc was wanting, we had here the comfort of pure air; which had fuch an effect: on me, that, next day, I was able to mount on horfe-back, though at fetting out, I was fcarcely in condition to bear the eafy motion of the litter. We continued our journey, afcending and de-fcending many ifeep rocks and mountains for four days, when we arrived at1 menzyly, a little town fituated in a charming valley; where grow abundance of citions, oranges, olives, befide grapes and other fruits. Thefe I own were tempting objects; but fed experience taught many of us- to value them no more than floes or bramble berries. Menzyly is governed by a kalentar, or judge; it is a pretty romantick place, encompafled by high mountains on all fides, which decline to the. north, and arc covered with grafs. This is a rare fight in Persia, and is caufed by the great autumnal rains; for along the fouth coaft of the Caspian fea, it rains ut.this feafo.n, almofl without interniillion, for the fpace TO ISPAHAN, fpace of fix weeks or two months. In this and the neighbouring villages are bred a great number of filk.-worms, which produce the belt and greater!: quantities of raw-filk made in the province of guv* lan; from whence it is exported by the Armenian merchants, partly through Russia to Holland, and partly by land to aleppo, for the levant trade. Having llaid two days at menzyly, wc fet ouc again in heavy rains, through deep roads, which greatly incommoded our camels; for they often flipj ped, and fometimes fell down under their burdens; however, in five days we reached reshd, the capital of the province of qui lan. Reshd Hands in a plain, furrounded with ereac woods on every fide, about a day's journey from the neareft more of the Caspian fea, where is a very good harbour for Ihips of fmall burden The houfes are thinly fcattered, rcfembline ra-: rhcr a large village than a town. As the ground at this place is very flat, the inhabitants are obliged to chufe the dry eft places to build on. In the market place,. I faw about eight pieces of cannon, mounted on forry carriages; among which was a nea-c - 134 A JOURNEY chap. vii. neat brafs field-piece, with the name of that noted ^7^7^prince the Duke of holstein gottorp upon it: it feems to have been left here accidentally by the ambailadors of that Duke to the then Shach of persia. The houfes are mean, in comparifon with thofe in other parts of Persia; the roofs are raifed and tiled, to carry off the great falls of rain. The marfhes and pools, with which reshd is fur-rounded, renders it very unhealthy, efpecially in the heat of fummer, when it is often vifited with the peililence; and, although it is a place of the great-eft plenty, the inhabitants look as half flarved. I was told they were obliged to confine themfelves to a fcanty diet; that, if they allowed themfelves the leaft indulgence, even fo far as to eat their rice with butter, they were liable to agues, the reigning dif-temper in this climate. Many of our people were actually feized with thefe agues, though none of them proved mortal. Here, as at the capitals of the other provinces, we were obliged to remain a confiderable time, much longer than we inclined. For every province bears the expence of ambafla- dors, TO I S F A H A N. 135 dors, from the time they arrive at its capital, till chap, vil they reach the capital of the next province, where ^J^J^j freih fuppllcs of money and cattle are to be procured. The obtaining thefe things and the rainy weather detained us in this difagreeable place. The pools are full of frogs that chatter like magpies, and make fuch a loud croaking, befides their chattering, that a perfon cannot lleep till he is accuf tomed to that noife. The country about reshd is very fruitful; particularly in rice, which grows plentifully on the mar-fhy grounds; and is fufficicnt to fupply moft of the other provinces of Persia: there is alfo plenty of fruit natural to the climate. The Armenians, who inhabit reshd, make good wine both red and white; and even in the woods you may fee the vines, load-en with clufters of grapes, twilling about the trees, which are left to the birds, as they are not worth gathering, amid fuch plenty. Great flocks of fieldfares, thrufhes, black-birds, with vail quantities of ftorks, cranes, fwans, wild-geefe, and all other kinds of water-fowl, come hither, A JOURNEY vii. ther from the north, during the winter, and return 7* to the northern regions in the fpring. The ftaple of guilan is raw-iilk, of which they make great quantities, both for their own confump-tion and for exportation. While we remained at reshd, two ambaffadors arrived from the aijuka chan, prince of the kol-muck-tartars, in their way to Ispahan. November oth, we left reshd and travelled through thick woods to the fhore, along which we kept to the left, in all about five agatz, and then lodged in a fmall empty village. The 13th, we proceeded fix agatz to a fmall town called keshker. This day the road lay through pleafant woods. At fome diflance from the fea we met with fome groves of orange trees, where we found bloffoms, ripe and green fruit on the fame tree. The great rains detained us fome days at keshker: during which a new maymander arrived from tspahan, who arretted the former one for fome fault he had committed on the road. The 20th, we travelled from keshker to the ihore, three agatz, and halted a little; then along the TO ISP A H AN. r j; the'fhore four agatz farther, and at midnight reach- citap.yu. ed an empty village: a difagreeable circumftanoc, af-J^JJ^ ter marching in conftant rain the whole day, which had rendered the rivers almoft impadablc to camels. From the 21ft to the 27th, we advanced along the (hore. The roads were very good. At laft, we came to a town called astara, where we halted for refrefhment. There is nothing remarkable about this place, except its pleafant fituation. December ill, we reached siarakent, a large village. And next day LANG GAR a, fituated on the fhore at the mouth of a river, an agatz diftant from the former. And the 3d, to kyzillagatch, five agatz from lan g gar a. This day we paffed along fcveral large bridges, over very deep rivers. In great rains, and ftrong northerly winds, thefe rivers fwell above their banks, and, fpreading to a great extent round the bridges, render them impaflable. The 5th, we travelled five agatz to tzamachava. I was furprized at the great flocks of water-fowl near this place: fo numerous were they that one of our people killed eight geefe at one difcharge. The 7th, we entered the plains of mugan. I de- Vo-l. I. S fcribed A JOURNEY vii. fcribed what fecmed moll remarkable in this defert, 7* when going fouthward, and fhall not recapitulate any thing I formerly obferved. The road was very good, We lodged at the river bulgara, fix agatz from tzamachava; the water of the river is muddy and brackifh. Next day we advanced feven agatz, and lodged again in tents; for there are no houfes in this plain, and only pit water, very brackifh. On the oth, we travelled feven agatz to fome fmall huts, beyond the river kure, which we paffed on a bridge of boats. We paffed this river about a day's journey above this place, in going to Ispahan, when I made my remarks upon it. Seven a-gatz from thefe huts, ffands a place called kara-kurody, the laft ftage in the defert, where we lodged on the i 1 th. The i 2th, we arrived at.shamachy, five agatz from the laft ftage. Since the time we left this place, it had fuffered gricvoufly by the plague, which raged here all the preceeding fummer. It was now much abated, though not quite extinguished. This was a difagreeable circumftance, many of our people were fickly, and two of them died TO I S P A H A N. Jf of the diftemper: for the empty houfes, where the chap. vii. Persians had died, notwithstanding every precauti- J^j^, on, particularly fmoaking the walls, ftill proved infectious. I was informed, that about feventy thoufand per-fons had been carried off by the peftilence, within the laft eight months, in sham achy and the province of shir van. The 15th, my old acquaintance, Monfieur yeiisky the dantzicker, whom I formerly mentioned, came to vifit me. He was fo altered by ficknefs that I fcarce knew him. He told me what difmal havock the plague had made, particularly in his own family. I asked, why he did not retire to the country for better air? His anfwer was, whither could he fly from god almighty ! This I find to be the general opinion of the Mahometans, both Persians and turks. The fame day I had a vifit from father rackond, the only miffionary at prefent in thefe parts, his companion, father ricard, being dead of the plague. The feafon being now far advanced, it became proper to pitch on fome place for winter quarters. S 2 Tht r^o A J O U R N E Y chap. vii. The terrible peftilence which had prevailed fo long, 1718- ancl with fuch deftru6lion, greatly deterred us from chufing this place. The fuperior convenience, however, of it; the prefent abatement of the plague; and chiefly becaufe a province is not obliged to fup-port the expences of an ambaflador till he arrives at the capital; and feveral other reafons, determined us to winter at shamachy. January 15th, 1718, the Chan came to town from the country, where he had been all the laft fummer. The 2 1 ft, the ambaflador paid the Chan a vifit, which was returned the 25th. Nothing material happened during the winter; only we often heard of the bad fuccefs of the Shach's forces, which were fent to chandahar, againft the rebel mkrv mahmut; and of many incurlions into the PERSi \n provinces, made by the mountaineers who inhabit between the black and Caspian feas. March 1 oth, one of our gentlemen, Monfieur lo-/i'chin, was fent away by land to astrachan, with an elephant and all the horfes. He was efcorted by thirty Russian foldiers, and fome. astrachan tartars. TO- ISPAHAN. 141 tars. In his march, between derbent and terry, chap.vii. he was attacked by fome hundreds of the mountai- I71^* neers, called shaffkalls, who killed one man and two horfes, and wounded feveral men and the elephant. Meeting, however, with a warm reception they thought proper to retire, but carried off three of the horfes. The gentleman arrived fafe, without any further misfortune, at astrachan. April 14th, fhips, commanded by captain rentle, arrived at niezabatt, in order to tranfport the ambaffador to astrachan. He could not, however, proceed immediately to embark; for we were obliged to wait for an anfwer to an exprefs, which the Chan had difpatched to Ispahan on affairs of importance, which did not return till the end of May. All of us impatiently defired to leave shamachy before the great heat came on. In the mean time, we diverted ourfelves with hunting. I went often to fee the filk-worms feeding on mulberry leaves. The inhabitants were apprehenfive that the plague would break out again in the fummer; and we had already buried twenty two of our people, fince our arrival on the frontiers of Persia, On 142 A JO URN E Y chap.viii. On the night of the eight of May there was fuch ^^^flaflies of lightning, as had not happened in the memory of man; though the night was dark, I could plainly fee the cattle in the adjacent fields, by means of the corufcations. The lightning was accompanied with dreadful claps of thunder, which lafted above two hours. CHAPTER VIII. From SHAMACHY to ST. PETERSBURG. tune 16th, we left shamachy, and in four days arrived fafe at niezabatt, where we found Ihips waiting; to receive us. On the 21 ft we began to load the veiTels with all portable difpatch, which was foon accomplished by the aftiftance of fome russ foldiers, who had wintered at this place. Since I have mentioned thefe foldiers, I fhall briefly relate how they happened to be on this coaft. The people of chiva, a territory (fee p. 42.) eaftward from the Caspian fea; having feveral times rob- TO ISPAHAN. 143 robbed and plundered fome caravans of Russian chap.viii. merchants going to bucharia, his Czarifh Ma- I71^-jeffy determined to fend a fmall body of regular troops and fome coffacks, to demand fatisfaction for fuch outrages committed in time of peace. For this purpofe Mr. beckvitz, a captain of the guards,, who was appointed to command this expedition, repaired to a stRACHAn, in fuminer 1716, in order to make all the neccflary preparations againft next fpring. Having accordingly embarked his men, provisions, and ammunition, at the proper feafon, he (leered his courfe along the Caspian fea, and landed at a place called krasna-vooda,7. e. red water, as near to chiva as he conveniently could. This place was barren, and uninhabited. Having therefore moored his tranfports, he erected a fmall fort to fecure his retreat, in cafe of accidents. In the mean time, he fent a friendly meffage to the Chan of chiva, to notify his arrival, and to de-fire he would furnifh him with provifions and quarters for his men; for which he offered to pay ready money. The crafty tartar returned for anfwer, that he might come to chiva with the greatefl fivfety, where i44 A JOURNEY chap.viii.where all his demands mould be granted. At the 1718 • • ' * fame time, fent him a prefent of fruits and freih provifions, and guides to conduct him on the road, accompanied with the higheft expreffions of refpect to his Czarifh Majefty. Mr. beckvitz, having left about three hundred men in the fort, to guard the camp and provifions, proceeded with the reft, and a few field-pieces, towards chiva. In three or four days he arrived in the neighbourhood of the town, where he was met by feveral of the chiefs, who came with compliments from the Chan, and to fettle matters relative to the cantonment of the foldiers. This particular was difficult to adjuft. Mr. beckvitz infifted, that all his men fhould be quartered in the town, and nothing but infatuation could have influenced him to alter fo prudent a refolution. But the tartars ftarted many objections againft putting it in execution, and pretended that the Chan and themfelves were willing to agree to it; but the people were averfe, and jealous of having fo many armed men lodged within their walls. And therefore they propofed, as a means of quiet- TO I S P A H A N. I45 quieting the minds of the people, that he mould chap.viii. feparate his men, in order to be quartered more I71^>* conveniently in the adjacent villages; that himfelf ihould have lodgings in the town, with a fufficicnt guard to attend him. This motion was ftrongly oppofed by all the old officers, who looked on it as a ftratagem laid for their deftruction. And fuch in reality it proved in the end. Mr. beckvitz, deluded by filfe promifes, at lad confented to canton his men. No fooner were they divided into fmall parties than they were inclofed, and attacked by great numbers of tartars; and moft of them either killed or taken prifoners, who were afterwards Ibid for (laves. A few of them taking the alarm ftood to their arms, and made a brave defence for fome time, endeavouring chiefly to regain their camp and fhips; but having a barren defert to pafs, and the tartar horfe harrafling them day and night, they were at laft obliged to fubmit to fatal neceffity. The imprudence of the general was the fole caufe of all thefe misfortunes; for, being in no want of provifions or ammunition, had he only kept his men together, the whole combined Vol. L T power A JOURNEY power of thefe tartars could not have prevented his regaining the camp and fhipping. The camp was next attacked by the tartars. But they were repulfed by the garrifon, which, having now intelligence of what had paiTed at chiva, demoliihed the fort, reimbarked the men and {fores, and fet fail for astrachan. The fcafon was now too far advanced to gain that port: this circum* itance, together with hard gales of contrary winds, obliged them to put into niezabatt in order to pafs the winter. Here they were hofpitably received by the Persians; and the prefence of the ambaiTador at shamachy, contributed greatly to the relief of thefe poor, unfortunate people. Unhappy beckvitz himfelf, happened to be taken prifoncr. He was fent for to the Chan's tent, on fome pretence of bufinefs, where they fir ft ftruck off his head; then after venting their barbarous raore on his dead body, they flayed it, and, having fluffed the skin v/ith ftraw, placed it, a miferable fpeclacle, on one of the city gates. This.unfortunate gentleman was the fon of a petty prince, or chief of a tribe in tzerkessia, and had been TO ISPAHAN. 147 been fent to Russia in his infancy, as a ho ftage for chap.viii. his father's fidelity. k !Zl£* Being now on the point of departing from Persia, called by the Persians iran, and alfo phar.-s 1 stan, I fhall clofe what I have to offer regarding that country, by giving a lift of the principal officers of ftate who attend that mighty monarch at the megilifs, u e. publick audience of ambafladors; they fit in the hall of audience according to their refpective ranks, and have all of them, on thofe oc-cafions, magnificent caps, and robes of ftate, kept in the king's wardrobe for that purpofc. 1. The Etmadowlett, prime minifter. Spaffelaar, general in chief. Kurtfy Bafha, general of 1 2,000 men. Kular-agaffy, director of the prifons. Tfengy Bafha, general of musketeers. ■Ifhek-agaffy Baiha, mafter of ceremonies, Divan Begg, chief juftice. Toptfhy Bafha, mafter of the ordinance. Vaggian Aviz, fecretary of ftate. Merifti-kaz Bafha, grand falconer. Dgevedar Bafha, general of the artillery. T 2 11. The 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 1^8' A JOURNEY chap.viii. i 2. The Milachurd Bafha Giloff, mafter of horfe, *7l8, ix, Milachurd Taffy Bafha, mafter of the fielddiorfes. 14. Kolopha. 15. Mamalek, comptroller of the houfhold. 16. KchalTa, cabinet fecretary. 17. Nazyr Daftar, flcward of the houfhold, 18. Vifir Ispahan, chief magiflrate of Ispahan. 1 o. Vifir Kurtfy, general of horfe. 20. Vifir Kulc. 21. Chafnadar Bafha, chief treafurer. 2 2* Kaliphar Kafhkar, chief judge in civil af- fairs. 22. Doroga Taftar, judge of the city. 24. Sachapt Tauchtzy. 2 5.. Sachapt Narvifs, chief affrologer. 26. Hakim Bafha, chief phyfician. The following officers attend the Shach wherever lie goes. 1. The Ibrahim Aga, chief of the eunuchs. 2. Yeufh Bafha, chief of the white eunuchs. 3. Achmet Aga, chief of the black eunuchs. 4. Klitch Kurtfhy, fword-bcarer.. 5. The TO ISPAHAN. 143 5. The Tzatyn Bafha, quiver-bearer. chap.viii. 6. Saddach Kurtfhy, bow-bearer.. J^oL; 7. Tfang Kurtfhy, musket-bearer. 8. Dgid Kurtfhy, dart-bearer. 9. Kalchau Kurtfhy, target-bearer. The following are the chief doctors of the Law of mahomet. 1. Sadyr Chaffa, the fame office in Persia as that of the Mufty in turkey. 2. Sadyr Mammalck., 3. Fazyl. 4. Shach Iflam.. 5. Chazy. 6. Mullah Bafha. 7. Mudarafs-. 8. Pifhnamafh. o. Mutafhett Baffra, 1 o. Moafham Bafha. Thefe are the principal; befides whom, there are many other officers too numerous to recite. With the foregoing lift I clofe what I have to fay regarding persia. The 26th, we fet fail from niezabatt with a fair, wind A JOURNEY ii.wind at fouth-eaft, which lafted only a few hours; after which we were becalmed for three days. July 2d, the wind became again fair, and carried us, with a gentle breeze, out of the deep water into foundings; but turning contrary, we came to anchor in thirty fathom water, where we lay till the 1 oth, when it blew a very hard gale, which drove us from our anchors out to fea; and, continuing for two days, brought us again in fight of the Persian (bore, which was at this time no very agreeable object. The 13th, the wind chopped about favourable, and fo continued, with little variation, till the 1 8 th, when we arrived fafe at astrachan, to the great joy of all our company. September 7th, leaving astrachan, we failed up the volga. Our progrefs, contrary to the courfe of the river, was very flow and tedious. In calms the boats were drawn up by men, who went upon the banks; but in hard gales we were obliged to haul them near the fide and ly ftill. October 12 th, after a voyage of five weeks, we arrived at the town of saratoff, about eight hundred verft diftant from astrachan. The winter draw- TO ISPAHAN. 151 drawing on prevented our farther progrefs by wa-chap.viii. ter. We therefore unloaded, and difcharged die • boats, being refolved to remain here till the fnow fell, when we might proceed by land in fledges. November iff, there had now been a little fall of fnow, fuificient to fmooth the roads, and this day we fet out from saratoff in fledges. The 3d, we came to a little town called fetro* sky, about ninety verft from saratoff. The 8th, we came to a large town called penze, ninety verft from the former. As we advanced to the north the froft and fnow dayly incrcafed, which made the roads very fmooth and eafy. Before we left this place a fudden rain obliged us to halt a few days. Here we met with Brigadier kropo-toff, who, with fome regiments of dragoons, had winter quarters at this place. The 14th, the fro (I and fnow returning, we fet out from penze. The 15th, we reached saransky, eighty verfl from the former. Here we found many Swedish officers taken at poltava, who were well quartered in a plentiful country* The 152 A JOURNEY chap.viii. The 17th, we left saransky, and the 21ft, arriv- T "7 I S ' ' ed at arzamass, an hundred verft from saransky. The 24th, we came to murum, three hundred and ilxty verft from saratoff, which i mentioned in going fouthward by water. From saratoff to petrosky the country is fomewhat dry and barren; but the reft of the country through which we paffed is very fruitful, producing all kinds of corn, fine woods, particularly of oaks, intcrfperfed with many villages; and the face of the country, conftantly varied by plain and gently rifing grounds, affords a moft beautiful profpecl. From murum we came to the town of vvolodimir, an hundred and thirty verft from murum: this place is large and well peopled, and famous for being formerly the refidence of a great prince of the fame name. The 30th, we arrived fafe at the city of mosco, an hundred and forty verft from the former, and feven hundred and feventy from saratoff. December 19th, we proceeded towards st. Petersburg, where we arrived on the 30th. Nothing .material happened during our return through Russia,, and what was moft remarkable in the country TO ISPAHAN. I defcribed in going fouthward. I cannot help tak-cHAi ing notice of an extraordinary cafe of one of our 17 people in an exceffive cold night. The fellow, expecting to banifh all feeling of cold from himfelf, drunk a large quantity of fpirits; which produced a drowfinefs that ended in deep in an open Hedge. On arriving at a village, the perfon was found ffiff, fpeechlefs, and apparently quite dead; but being carried to a brook hard by, and plunged feveral times in the water, and then rubbed with fnow and brought into a warm room, with proper regimen he foon recovered, and was able to proceed next day. I have often obferved in other inifances, that the ufe of fpirituous liquors in cold weather, is the worff. of remedies: for, though they warm at fir ft, they leave a chilnefs behind them, not to be got clear of for a conlidcrable time. I have found by experience nothing preferable to weak warm liquors mixed with a little fpirits. The Russian travellers carefully a-void the exceffive ufe of brandy in ftrong frofts. Thus have I finiQied my account of a long, tedious, and dangerous journey, which lafted for three years, attended with many difficulties not eafily con- Vol. I. U ceived A JOURNEY i.ceived by thofe who have not travelled the fame ' road. At our return to st. Petersburg, we found his majefty at that place, who, I was informed, was well facisfied with the conduct, of his ambaiTador, whofe principal errand was to cultivate and cement amity, and a good correfpondence, between the two crowns of Russia and Persia. Notwithftanding the war with saved en had continued near twenty years, this adive monarch had not neglected, nor even fufpended, the building and adorning his new capital. During my abfence the appearance of things were fo changed that I could fcarce imagine myfclf in the fame place: fo furprif-inir was the alteration in fo fhort a time. Befides, this prince had fitted out a navy of thirty fliips of war, and three hundred gallics: enterprifes which might have been the work of ages, but not fuperior to the {ingle induftr.y and activity of peter the fuft. JOURNEY from PETERS BUR i n RUSSIA. t o PEKIN i N CHINA. with AN EMBASSY from his IMPERIAL MAJESTY, PETER THE FISRT, t o K A M H I EMPEROR OF CHINA, IN THE YEAR MDCCXIX. U 2 NAMES OF THE PRINCIPAL PERSONS WHO COMPOSED THE TRAIN OF THE AMBASSADOR. LEO F F VASSILOVICH ISM A YL OFF, LAURENCE DE LANGE, Secretary of the EmblfTy. IVAN GLAZUNOFF, the AmbaOador's Secretary.. KNEAZ ALEXANDER SASECKIN, i NICOLAUS DE PAULI K RESTIT Z, LUKIAN NESTEROFF, alexie divoff, david grave, THe aU Tii0R of this Journm., gregory, Gentlemen of the Em* bafly. a Prieft. Interpreters, clerks, a band of mufic, valets, footmen, Sec. in all to the number about Sixty pcrfons; bafides a troop of twenty five dragoons, for our efcort-Brain tobolsky to pr.KiN, and back. A JOURNEY from ST P E TERSBURG t o PEKIN. CHAPTER i. From st. Petersburg to tobolsky the capital of sib eri a. "^yHEN I arrived at st. Petersburg from Ispahan, I met with a very fenfible mortification, on finding that my very worthy friend, dr. areskine, was no more; he died about fix weeks before my arrival. Not long after which, upon being informed that an embafly was preparing for china, and that his majefty had nominated leoffvassilovich ismayloff, a gentleman of a family very well known and much refpecled in Russia, and a captain of the guards, for that employment, I became very defirous of making that journey in his train. Upon my acquainting my very good friend, arte.-aly petrovich valensky, with my defire, he, with*- our A JOURNEY .1. outlofs of time, recommended me to leoff vassilo-9' vich ismayloff, the appointed ambaiTador, in fuch a manner as produced, on all occafions, marks of friend-fhip and regard for me, as well during the journey, as alfo after our return, untill he died in 1736. The time, between my return from Ispahan and my letting out for pekin, I fpent with much fatisfaction with my friends and acquaintance at st. Petersburg. Among whom I efteemed as fuch, not only feveral worthy perfons of my own countrymen, as well in trade as in the fervice of his majelfy; but alfo not a few of the Russian gentry, to whom I became known on occafion of my journey to Persia, and of whom I found many to be perfons of much worth and honour. At length the prefents for the Emperor of china being got ready, as well as the ambafladofs difpatch-cs, I fet out from st. Petersburg the 14th of July, 1719, in company with Meffieurs lange and grave, attended by a few fervants; the firff was a native of sweden, and the other of courland. We travelled to the city of mosco in fmall parties, the more eaflfy to procure poff horfes. The weather being very hot obliged us to make fhort flages, confining us moffly to the mornings and evenings. Having in my Persian TO PEKIN. 159 an journal defcribed what is moft remarkable on this chw> i. road, 1 have nothing to add to what i have there ob-ferved. Nothing material happened during our journey to mosco, where we arrived on the 30th of July, and joined the ambaflador, who had arrived there two days before, having paffed us on the road. We took up our lodgings at the houfe of Mr. belayof, near the triumphal arch. Here we fpent five weeks in preparing barques to go by water to cazan, and neceffaries for fo long and unfrequented a road. This interval we paffed very agreeably, being invited to all the entertainments the place afforded. September 9th, having fhipped our baggage, and prepared every thing for our departure, we went our-felves on board; and, after firing nine guns, rowed down the river mosco. There is a fhorter way from mosco to Siberia through yaroslave; but, as we were incumbered with heavy baggage, confifting chiefly of prefents from his majefty to the emperor of china, it was thought befl to proceed as far as poflible by water. Accordingly we continued our courfe down the mosco river to kolumna, then into the river ocka- and. l6o A JOURNEY chap.i. and paffing pereslave-resansky, murum, and other l719' towns of lefs note, we arrived at nishna-novogorod, fituated to the right hand, on a high bank of the ocka, at its confluence with the volga. Leaving nishna, we entered the river volga and proceeded towards cazan. After a voyage of fix weeks we arrived at cazan on the 20th of October. We intended to have continued our route farther down the volga to the river Kama, which falls into the volga about fixty verft below cazan, and then up the kama to solikamsky; but the advancement of the feafon, and the froft coming on apace, made us refolve to remain at cazan till the winter fet in; leaft we mould run the hazard of being frozen up near fome uninhabited place on the kama. In confequence of this refolution the barques were •difcharged, and we took up our lodgings in the city. Here I found many of my old friends and acquaintance, particularly the savedish officers; among others, general Hamilton, general rosen, and baron wacii-maiter, who ftill remained prifoncrs of war, regretting the hard fate of their long captivity. We ftaid here about five weeks, waiting for the fnow falling to fmooth the TO PEKIN. 1'6*i the roads, and in the mean time were employed in chap.t. preparing fledges, and other neceflaries for our jour- ^L^2^j ney. Having formerly made my remarks on this route, and particularly on cazan and its neighbourhood, I (hall now purfue our journey towards Siberia. November 2z|th, we fent off the heavy baggage: but Monfieur ismayloff, with a few of the gentlemen, remained fome days longer; becaufe it was difagreeable travelling on rough roads with loaded fledges. At laft: on the 28th, late in the night, the ambaiTador quitted cazan, keeping to the north-eaftward. There being many villages on the road we changed horfes as often as occafion required. The 20th, we travelled through woods, coniifting chiefly of tall oaks, fir, and birch. This part of the country is very fruitful, producing plenty of cattle, corn, and honey. The hives are not made like thofe in England : the inhabitants take the trunk of a lime-tree, afpin, or any foft wood, of about five or fix feet long; having fcooped it hollow, they make a large aperture in one fide, about a foot in length and four inches broad; they then fix crofs rods within the trunk, for the bees to build upon, and, having done this, clofe up the place carefully with a board, leaving fmall notches Vol. I. X for a JOURNEY .1. for the bees to go in and out. Thefe hives are planc-9* ed in proper places, at the fide of a wood, and tied to a tree wich flrong wythes, to prevent their being de-flroycd by the bears who arc great devourers of honey. The wax and honey exported yearly from cazan make a very confiderablc article of trade. I have feen above an hundred hives near one village; and was informed, that they have a method of extracting the honey and wax without killing the bees, which would certainly be worth knowing; but I was told it fo mdiftinctly, that I. could not undcrftand it, and had no opportunity of feeing it practifed. The villages, through which we. paffed, were moflly. inhabited by the tzkremisu and tzoowash tartars,, whom I have formerly mentioned. The three following days the roads were rough and narrow, lying through: dark woods, interfperfed with fome villages and cornfields. We palled the ick and feveral fmallcr rivers, and then the viatka, a pretty large one> all which dif? charge themfelves into the Kama. After a tedious journey of fix days, we came to a: fmall town called klinof, or more commonly viatka,. from the river of that name running near it. The fituation of this place is very pleafant,, having round it TO P E K I K. 163 it corn-fields, and fine pafture, and the rivers in the chap.t. neighbourhood abounding with great variety of fifli. l7l9' The country about klinof is reckoned fo proper pafturage for fheep, that his majefty ordered fome thoufands of german (beep, moft eftcemed for their wool, to be bought and fent thither, with a view to •eftablifh a manufactory at this place for clothing his army. He alfo caufed a german fhepherd to be en-gaged in his fervice, who is fettled here, and enjoys fc confiderablc falafy. The flocks are already fo numerous, that i am perfuaded they will in time anfwer the end propofed. A thoufand other inftances rrright be produced of the unbounded genius of this great and active Prince, who fpares no expence, and overlooks nothing tJiat can contribute either to the honour or •advantage of his empire. i cannot omit another feem-ingly inconfiderable article, i mean pump leather: this commodity was formerly brought from England and Holland at no fmall charge; to fave which, his majefty gave orders to engage an English tanner for a certain number of years, whom he fent to cazan, where the beft hides are, to teach the natives the art of drefiing them. This fcheme has fully anfwered the end in view, and produced abundance, not only X 2 of 164 A J O U R rv E Y chap. 1. of pump leather, but of every other kind of leather whereof that country hath any need. There being no verft pofls on this, though on moft other roads in russia, I compute the diftance between cazan and klinof to be about five hundred verft; each verfl meafurcs one thoufand one hundred and fix-ty fix yards and two feet English. Here I met with feveral savedish officers, who paffed a folitary life in a pleafmt and plentiful country. We halted one day to refrefh ourfelves, and the next, being the 5th of December, we left the baggage to follow leifurcly, and fet out again toward solikamsky. On the 7th, we reached kay-gorod, a fmall town. We perceived the cold becoming daily more intenfe as we proceeded northward along the banks of the kama. The Bth, we quitted k\y-gorod in a vehement cold. Though there was little wind and a thick foe, the frpft continued fo penetrating that feveral of our people, who were moft expofed, had their lingers and toes frozen. Moft of them recovered by the common method of rubbing the numbed parts with fnow: but had we not halted from time to time, at villages to let them warm themfelves, they muff have perifhed by cold. On.the oth, we arrived.at tire town, of solikamh sky, T O PEKIN. 165 sky, derived from sole fait and kama the river, on chap.i. the banks of which it is fituated. Our arrival was a 1719* moft agreeable circumftance, as the piercing froft ftill prevailed. Sol 1 kamsky is a large and populous town, and the capital of a province of that name; which is at prefent annexed to the government of Siberia. Its fituation is very pleafant, upon the eaftern bank of the kama. This river is of great fame in thefe parts of the world. Lt rifes fir to the north, and, in its courfe, receives the parma, pilva, koyva, and many other rivers, which together form a mighty ftream, very nearly equal to the volga ; into which it difcharges itfelf, about fixty verft below the city of cazan, and lofes its name. Its long courfe to the fouth-weft is now turned fhort, by the current of the volga, and carried toward the fouth-eaft. The kama is well ftored with variety of excellent fifh. On the banks are fine corn-fields and pafture-grounds; but often interrupted by thick woods, efpecially to the north. Thefe woods are flocked with different kinds of game, and wild beafts, natural to the climate. Solikamsky is famous for having many falt-pits in* its neighbourhood, the. property of my worthy friend. Baron l66 A JOURNEY chap. i. Baron stroganof, by virtue of a grant from his ma-J719m jeffy. The Baron has brought thefe works to fuch perfection, that he is able to ferve all Russia with fait; and could befides furnifli a confiderable quantity for exportation, were there any demand. The fait is of a browniih colour, and very good of the kind. The common method of procuring this fait is as follows: They dig pits in the earth till they come to the falt-rock, which feems to ly in thefe parts at a certain dilf ance from the furface, as coals do in other places of the world. When the pit is finifhed, it is naturally, and of courfe, filled with water; which (landing for a convenient time, till it is fuificiently impregnated with the fait, is then drawn out with pumps and other engines, and put into large iron caldrons, where it is boiled to a proper confluence; when, the water being evaporated, the fait is left upon the bottom. I was informed of another curious and extraordinary procefs, by which they draw fait-water from a frelh-water river, which I cannot omit taking notice of. In the rivers near this place there is a mixture of fait-water arifing from the fprings, which either have their fource in the fait rocks, or run through them: it is the bufinefs of the inhabitants to difco- ver TO PEKIN. 167 ver the places where thefe fprings empty themielves chap.t. into the rivers, which they do by diving, or fome other ^L^2^j manner; having done this, they make a large frame of ffrong thick balks or beams joined very clofe, about fifteen or twenty feet fquare, and of depth enough to reach the bottom of the river, while part of it remains above the furface; when the ice is very ftrong they fink this machine into the river, over the place where the fait fpring ifTues, and drive ftrong piles of wood all around, to hinder its being forced from this pofition by the current, or by floating ice in the end of winter. During the winter they draw out all the water, mud and find, contained within the machine, and fink it ftill deeper until it hath penetrated the bottom of the channel of the river, and prevented all further communication between it and the fait fpring: the frame is now filled only with the fait-water, ifTuino; from the fpring, from whence it is drawn, and the fait extracted as formerly defcribed. However tedious and expenfivc this proccfs may feem, thefe people perform it with great readinefs and eafe; and, what is ftill more extraordinary, without regular inftru6flon in any art fubfcrvient to that pur-pofe, but by the mere force of natural genius. The Baron i68 A JOURNEY chap. i. Baron has a great number of hands conitantly em-1719- ployed in this fervice. And the woods for fewel arc inexhauftible. When the fait is made, it is laid up in granaries, till the feafon of tranfporting it to mosco, st. Petersburg and other places: the barques, for this purpofe, called by the Russians Lodia, are of a conif ruction fomewhat uncommon. I have feen fome of them longer and broader than any firft rate man of war in England, and not one iron-nail in the whole fabrick. All of them are flat-bottomed, having one tall tree for a mail:, and a fail of light canvafs in proportion. To manage this mighty machine, fix or eight hundred men are neceffary; the rudder is nearly as long as the barque; and fo unwieldy, that fome times it requires forty or fifty men to fleer it. They load thefe mips very deep, and let them float down the kama into the volga; where, if the wind is not favourable, they are obliged to draw them, againff the flream, to the place of their deflination. i cannot leave solikamsky without mentioning the rich iron-mines in the country adjacent, at kathena-burg, and other places of that diflric~t, which produce kon, equal perhaps in quality to the bell in the world. • Thefe TO PEKIN. 169 Thefe works have of late been brought to great per- ciiap.t. fection, by the skill and indefatigable induftry of Mr. J7liJ-demidof, a native of Russia, enabled and encouraged to carry them on by a beneficial grant from his majefty; who is always ready to affift and protect thofe, who, by their ingenuity, form projects to the advantage of his country. Thefe works, I am informed, are ftill capable of great improvement. The ore is very good, and rifes in many places to the very furface of the earth, and may be dug at a fmall expence. As for wood to fmelt it, no place in the world can have greater advantage. Befides, all the machines may be driven by water; and there is an eafy communication by the rivers, to st. Petersburg for exportation, and to many other parts of Russia, for inland confumption. In thefe mines are often found magnets of various fixes. I have feen fome of them very large, and of hioji virtue. There are feveral other iron-works in russla; for inftance, at tula, olonitz, and other places; but the metal is of an inferior quality to that of Siberia. Befides thefe of iron, there are alfo rich mines of excellent copper at this place, which, being lately difcover- Vol. I. Y ed [jo M f 0 U R N E Y cfiap. i. ed, are capable of great improvement. The coppcr-l7I9' ore alfo rifes to the very furface. In the neighbourhood of sol ik am sky is found the foffd called asbeftos; of which is made a kind of cloth like linen, that may be put into the fire and taken out again unconfirmed. This cloth was known among the ancients, and ufed by them on feveral occafions. At prefent, it goes by the name of the incombuftible linen. The asbeftos, like many both curious and ufeful difcoveries, was found out by mere accident in thefe parts. I fhall briefly relate in what manner: A certain huntfman being about to load his fowling-piece, and wanting wadding, obferved a great ftone in the woods, which feemed to have fome flakes upon it like loofe threeds; he foon found that by rubbing it turned into a foft downy fubftance fit for his ufe: he there* fore filled his pocket with it; but having fired his piece, was furprifed to fee that the gun-powder had no effect, upon the wadding: this raifed his curiofity fe far, that he kindled a fire on purpofe, into which he put the asbeftos; but ftill took it out intire, and of the fame ufe as formerly: this experiment fo frightened the poor fporefman, that he imagined the devil had TO V E K I 1\. i/i had taken poffeffion of the foffd. On returning home, chap, l he narrated what had happened to the priefl of the I7I9' parifh; who, amazed at the relation, repeated it fo frequently, that, at laft, he told it to a peffon who was acquainted with that quality peculiar to the asbeftos; and, on examination, found the flakes to be that foffth The weather is much colder at solikamsky than at other places fituated feveral degrees nearer to the north pole; perhaps its great diftance from any part of the ocean may be partly the caufe of the exceffive cold which fometimes prevails. December ioth, the ambaflador took pofl horfes, and fet out for tobolsky, leaving the baggage to fol-low as fhould be moft convenient. About midnight wTe came to a village called martinsky; here having changed horfes, we foon reached the mountains named verchatursky-gory, where we found the fnow very deep, and a ftrong fro ft ftill continued. We kept on our journey, afcending and defcending thefe high and fteep mountains for the fpacc of fifteen hours. In fuch of the valleys as are fit for culture, are found Russian villages well peopled. And, where the woods are cut down, there appeared a beautiful landskip, even at this bleak feafon. Y 2 Thefe 172 A JOURNEY chap. 1. Thefe mountains divide Russia from Siberia. They lJ$' run m a ridge from north to fouth, inclining a little to the eaft and weft of thefe points. They are quite covered with wood, confiding of tall firs of different kinds, larinxes, birch, and other trees natural to the climate; and abound with game and various kinds of wild bcafts. Their length, from north to fouth, I cannot afcertain; but compute their breadth, where we paffed, to be about forty English miles. But they are not near fo high as the mountains I have feen in Persia, and other parts of the world. ■ Having paffed thefe mountains, we defcended, on the 1 1 th, into a country finely varied with plains and fifing grounds, intcrfperfed with woods, villages, cornfields, and paiturage; and, in the evening, reached the town called verchaturia, from verch which fignifies high, and tura the name of the river on which the town Hands. This river is navigable, and runs to the eaft till it difcharges itfelf into the touol. Verciia-turia is pleafantly fituated upon a rifing ground, and fortified with a ditch and palifades. It is governed by a commandant, who has under him a garrifon, confift-ing of fome regular troops and collacks. What makes verchaturla confiderablc, is its being a. frontier town,, and TOPE K I N. 17: and commanding the only entry from russia into si- chap.i. berta. Here is a cuftom-houfe, where all merchants l7l9m are obliged to make entry of what fums of money or merchandife they carry into Siberia, or from Siberia into russia ; on all which is charged a duty of ten per cent to his majefty. Though this impoft may appear high, it is really very moderate, conftdcring the profits which the trade yields, and it extends only to the money to be employed in traffick; for every merchant is allowed a certain fum for his expences, free of all duty. The country, adjacent to vercuaturia, is inhabited by a race of people called voguelitz, who differ in language, drefs, and manners, from any nation I ever faw. Their features and perfons have a refem-blance of the tzoowashians near cazan. They have fome obfeure notions of the Deity; and arc very fond of a kind of wizards called shamans, whom they hold in great cftcem. i fhall have occafion to fpeak more fully of thefe shamans afterwards. The vogullitz know nothing of agriculture; but live in huts in the woods, and fubfift by hunting and lilhing. They arc an honeft inoffenfive people, but not very numerous; arifing perhaps from their unfocial and uncomfortable manner of life. The archbilhop of tobolsky hath of A JOURNEY i. of late, by his pious labours, converted many of them 9* to Christianity; who now begin to build houfes, and cultivate fome appearance of fociety; and, probably, in time, the reft will follow fo laudable an example: this however will depend much on the encouragement they meet with, from the clergy and fubgovernors of pro-vinccs. I vifited them as often as any opportunity offered, both in their huts and houfes, and endeavoured to procure fome information about their original, or from whence they came to fettle in thefe northern parts; but could obtain nothing fatisfactory on either of thefe heads. Before we enter Siberia, it will not be perhaps improper to give a fhort account of the lingular manner in which this moft extenfive country was difcovercd by the russians. About the beginning of the laft century, a certain don-cossack, named yarmak timotheovitz, being obliged, by fome accident, to leave his native country, and having no means of fubfiftence, he, with a few accomplices, betook themfelves to robbing on the highways. He foon became famous and powerful; for he robbed only the rich; and, by a gcnerofity uncommon in fuch a character, liberally bellowed to fuch as were TO PEKIN. I were in wane. He never killed, nor even hurt any chap perfon, unlefs compelled to fuch outrages in his own 17 1! defence. This behaviour fo raited his reputation, that all the idle fellows in the country emitted themfelves in his gang, proud to follow fo brave and cntcrprifing a leader. He became at laft fo troublefome that the governors of the fouthcrn provinces fent out troops to apprehend him; but, being prcvioufly informed of the defign, he withdrew from the land, and procuring boats upon the volga, commenced pirate on that river. Being attacked here alfo, he was forced to crofs the Caspian fea, and flicker himfelf on the Persian fhorc, where he paffed fome time under the difguife of a merchant. Being again difcovercd, he was oblig-ed by the Persians to quit their coaft: and now his only refuge was to return to the volga, where he behaved with great circumfpcction, often lurking in woods and villages; and, being in no want of money, paid the inhabitants liberally for every thing he needed. Forefeeing however that fuch a numerous gang could not be long concealed, he took the refolution of leaving the volga, and fteered his courfe up the river kama, at that time little frequented by the Russians, or any other nation; here he hoped to find, at leaff, 176 A JOURNEY chap. 1. leaft, a fafe retreat during the winter. Yarmak, there-1719* fore, with his followers, amounting to the number of two hundred, continued their voyage up the kama, till they were Hopped by the ice, at no great diftance from a large village, now belonging to Baron stroganof. The inhabitants were alarmed at the fight of fo many armed men, whom they were not able to oppofe, and therefore gave them an hofpitable reception. Yarmak demanded only provifions, and winter quarters, for his money, promifing to leave them unmolefled next fpring. In confequence of this declaration, he and his followers paffed the winter very quietly in this remote place; afraid, however, at the approach of fum-mer, of being difcovered by the government, and uncertain what courfe to fleer; it was at laft determined to crofs the mountains of verchaturia, and go to the eaftward, in hopes of finding fome inhabited country; or, at leaft, a fafe retreat. Having paffed the mountains, they arrived at the river tur; and, finding it navigable, foon made a fuffi-cient number of canoes for the whole gang. After rowing for fome days down the tur, they difcovered feveral villages of Mahometan tartars, who were fur-prifed at the fight of fuch a number of ftrangers; of whom TO P E K I N. 177 ^vhom they had before never fo much as heard. Yar- cjiap.l mak having got what intelligence he could prc^urc^^.^ of the fituation and government of the country, pur-fued his voyage to the river tobol ; where he found the towns populous, and the land well cultivated. His approach alarmed the king of the tartars, who af-fembled a numerous body of horfe and foot, armed with bows and arrows, lances, and other fuch weapons, with whom our adventurer had many skirmifh-es, and defeated great multitudes by means of his firearms; which had never before been known in thefe parts. The poor tartars were as much amazed, and terrified, at the fight of the Russians and their arms, as the inhabitants of mexico on the arrival of the Spaniards in America; to which Siberia may, in many refpects, be compared. Yarmak, finding his enemies daily more numerous* the nearer he approached the refidence of the tartar king; having alfo loft many of his men, in continual encounters, and fpent the greateft part of his ammunition; knowing, befides, of no place of fafety, where he might pafs the winter, which is both long and fe-vere in this quarter; at laft determined to retreat. He therefore fleered his courfe to the weft, up the tobol Vol. I. - . Z and I7& A JOURNEY chap. r. and tur rivers. The furious tartars gave him no lZ]2' re^> DLlC nara^°^ mm perpetually from the banks. He himfelf and few more efcaped, with a confiderablc booty, and returned to the village where they wintered the preceeding year. The inhabitants, on feeing the rich furs and other fpoils, gave them a welcome reception. And yarmak did not forget to difpenfe his favours liberally, among thofe who had entertained him in his diftrefs, when he fled from juflice. Our adventurer had now time to reflect on his mi-ferable circumflances. He confidered, that his lurking in thefe parts, though remote from any town, could not be long a fecret; to make another attempt againft the tartars with a handful of men, ill provided with arms and ammunition, might perhaps be ruinous, and certainly unfucccfsful. He therefore re-folvcd to fubmit himfelf to his majefty's clemency, in hopes of obtaining a gracious pardon for himfelf and his accomplices, on condition of pointing out the way to a rich and eafy conqueft of a country which he had lately difcovered. The propolal was made at court by a friend, and was of too great importance to be neglected. In ihort, yarmak was brought to mosco, under, a fafe conduct, where he communicated the - whole TO PEKIN. *79 ■whole affair. He begged his majefty's pardon, and ask- chap.i. cd a certain number of troops, which he promifed to J^J^\ lead to a glorious conqueft. His majefty granted him a pardon, approved of the expedition, and gave immediate orders for the troops to attend him. They marched to solikamsky, where they paffed the winter in making preparations for the enterprize, which was to be undertaken in the fpring. During this interval, yarmak behaved with furprif-ing prudence and activity, and difcovered himfelf to be a perfon of uncommon genius. He collected fuch of his former followers as remained, and formed them into a company, in whom he could confide on all oc-cafions. At the proper fcafon, the troops fet out towards Siberia. On coming into the inhabited part of the country, they found many ftraggling parties of tartars in arms, ready to oppofe them, and a number of boats upon the rivers, full of armed men: the king of the tartars himfelf was on board one of thefe vef-fcls. This expedition was of fhort duration; and, in the iffue, fully anfwered the expectations of the Russians. i cannot omit a few particulars of the laft action. The tartars in the boats, being purfued by Z 2 the iSa A JOURNEY chap.i. the Russians, a battle cnfued on the river Irtish; *7 9* Yarmak, obferving the king's barge, ordered his crew to board her; which he endeavouring to do at the head of his men, jumped fhort, fell into the river, and was drowned; to the great grief of all his followers. Thus fell poor yarmak! Notwkhftanding this misfortune, the Russians gained a complete victory. The brave king of the tartars loft his life in the action. His fon and the reft of the royal family were taken prifo-ners, and fent to mosco-, where they were honourably received by the Czar, and treated according to their quality. The prince had an extenfive property granted him in Russia; which the family enjoys to this day, together with the title of Sibirsky Czarcvitz, or Prince of Siberia; which, I believe, is a more generous treatment of the conquered than any of the mighty mo* narchs of peru or mexico, or any of their lineage^ have experienced. December iith, we left verchaturia, in deep iiiow. The cold was exceffive, and the sky clear. Next day, we came to a large village, having a few ©f the vogullitz tartars in the neighbourhood: and, the 13th, arrived at the town of epantshin* fiOflX verchaturia to this place the country ismofe TO PEKIN. 181 ly covered with woods. About the villages there are chap.i. large plains, for corn or pafturage. The cattle are in 1719-good condition. The horfes, particularly, being of the tartar breed, are larger, and better fhapcd than ordinary, and fit for any ufe. . Epantshin is but a fmall place, fortified with a ditch and palifades, and defended by a few foldiers in garrifon. This place is fomecimcs alarmed with in-curfions of the tartars, called kossatshy-orda, and kara-kalpacks; but the Russians have of late fo fortified their frontiers, that thefe rovers appear fcldomer than formerly. Both thefe tribes are Mahometans,. live always in tents, and fpread themfelves, with their flocks, in the great defert; both are very numerous, and own fubjecYion to different chiefs, whom they call Battecr, which fignifics a hero. Thefe are chofen by themfelves, and are the moft famous among them for their abilities in military exploits. They are at continual war with the Kalmucks, who inhabit along the volga, and with all their other neighbours. They are not able to ft and againft regular troops; and, when attacked by them, retire into the wide defert, with their families and cattle; whither none, but people ac-cuftomed to their manner of life, can follow them.. TE e i32 A JOURNEY chap.i. The country of the kara-kalpacks, or black-caps, jLyrv^0 called from a kind of caps they commonly wear turned up with black lamb-skins, lies to the fouth-we{f, towards the volga. That of the kossatshy-orda extends to the fouth-eaif, as far as the river Irtish. The courfe of this river i fhall have occafion to mention afterwards. The tJfih, we came to a pretty large town, called tumen, fituated upon the north bank of the river tumi, from whence the place takes its name. The banks of the tuma are high and ffecp. There is a very convenient wooden-bridge at this place. The tv ma has its fource far to the weft; and, in its courfe, is augmented by the tura, and feveral other rivers. It continues to run to the eaft, till, meeting with the tobol, it lofes itfelf and name. The country between epantshin and tumen begins to be more open, and better peopled, than that weftward of thefe places. For, befides the Russians, who make the grcateft part of the inhabitants, we met with feveral villages inhabited by the defcendents of the ancient Mahometans, who were natives of thefe places. Thefe tartars fubfift by agriculture; and pafs their lives without care or difturbance, in the free TO PEKIN. 183 free exercife of their religion and other privileges, chap.i. Tumen is a pretty neat place, and well fortified. l7i9' The ftreets are fpacious, and the houfes built in a ftraight line. The adjacent country is covered with fine woods, intcrfperfed with village., corn-fields, and pafturage; and provisions of all kinds are very plentiful. The merchants of this place have a confiderable trade in furs, particularly the skins of foxes and fquir-rels; which, indeed, are not fo valuable here as they are to the eaftward. Early on the 15th, we left this place, keeping on our courfe along the banks of the tum \, till we arrived at the river tobol, which we croffed, and proceeded along the eaftern bank, through a fine country, and well peopled. Though the froft ftill continued ftrongr it was. not near fo violent and piercing as about soli-kamsky; which may proceed from the woods being cut down and the country cultivated. On the other fide of the river, indeed, the face of the country appeared flat and moraffy, abounding with tall and dark, woods. The 16th, about noon, we were in fight of the city of tobolsky, though diftant from us about twenty English miles. It ftands upon a very high bank of" the A JOURNEY .1. the tobol. The walls are white; and the crones and 9' cupolas of the churches guilded, and make a very fine appearance. About two o'clock, we arrived fafe at the city of tobolsky, the capital of this mighty province, and the refidence of the governor. We lodged in the broad-lf reet, leading to the governor s palace and the courts of juftice. We travelled between tumen and tobolsky, about two hundred and fifty verft, in the fpace of thirty hours. Sledges are the moft fimple and convenient machines for travelling on fnow that can be imagined. And the perfon in the fledge may either fit, or ly a-long upon the couch, according to his inclination. C EI A P T E R II. Occurrences at tobolsky; Observations on the Kalmucks, &c. and journey continued to tomsky. nr^OBOI-SKY is fituated in latitude fifty eight de-grces forty minutes north, at the conflux of the irtish and tobol. From this laft the city has its name. Both thefe rivers are navigable for feveral hundred miles above this place. The Irtish, after receiving the tobol, becomes a noble ftream, and difcharg- es TO PEKIN. 185 es itfelf into the oby. This fituation was chofen by chap. 11. the Russians, both for its ftrength and beauty. For- I7I9' merly the tartar princes had their abode at a place about thirty verft fouth from tobolsky, which is now neglected and ruinous. Tobolsky is fortified with a ftrong brick-wall, having fquare towers and baftlons at proper diftances; and is well furnilbed with military ftores. Within the town ftand the governors palace, courts of juftice, feveral churches built of brick, particularly a large cathedral, and the palace of the archbifhop. From the walls you have a very extenfive profpect of a fine country, efpecially to the fouth. To the weft the land is alfo flat, and overgrown with tall woods. The inhabitants are chiefly Russians, of different profeffions; many of them are merchants, and very rich, by the profitable trade they carry on to the borders of china, and many places of their own country. Thefe live moftly upon the hill. Under the hill in the fuburbs, along the banks of the river, are feveral large ftreets, called the tartar-strects, occupied by the remains of the ancient inhabitants of thefe parts. Here, as at other places, thefe people enjoy the free exercife of their religion, and the privilcdges of trade. Vol. i. A a They 186 A JOURNEY chap. ii. They refemble, in their perfons, religion, language, l7l9* and manners, the tartars of cazan and astrachan. Their houfes are very cleanly. They are very courteous to ftrangers, and efleemed honed; on which account they get great credit in their commercial affairs. Befides the fortification, formerly mentioned, about the town, the whole fuburbs are furrounded with a ditch and palifades. When we were at tobolsky, Siberia was fuperin-tended by Mr. petrof solovoy, vice governor, a per-fon well acquainted with the bufinefs of the government, and a captain of the guards. The former governor, kneaz gagarin, had incurred his majeffy's difplcafure and was recalled; and his fucceffor, kneaz alexie michaylovitz cherkasky, a nobleman worthy of fuch an important trufl, was not yet arrived. As in mofl other towns, through which we paffed, we found here many Swedish officers of diflinction; among others, Monfieur dittmar, formerly fecretary to charles xn. king of saveden. He was a native of livonia, and equally efleemed for his probity and capacity. He was much refpected by the late governor; who, indeed, was a friend to all thefe unfortunate gentlemen. They were allowed to walk about at large5 TO PEKIN. 187 a hunting or filbing, and even permitted to travel to chap. ii. other places to vifit their countrymen. For my part, J^Ji^, I think the greateft favour his majefty (hewed thefe prifoners, was the cantoning them in thefe parts; where they may live well at fmall expence, and enjoy all the liberty that perfons in their circu nftances can expect. I cannot but obferve, that the Swedish prifoners, difperfed in moft of the towns in this country, contributed not a little to the civilizing the inhabitants of thefe diftant regions; as they were the means of introducing feveral ulef ul arts, which were almoft unknown, before the r arrival. Many of the officers, being gentlemen of liberal c-ducation, the better to fupport their tedious captivity, devoted their time to the ftudy of the more agreeable and entertaining parts of fcience, particularly mufick and painting; wherein fome of them attained to great perfection. I was prefent at feveral of their concerts, and was not a little furprifed to find fuch harmony, and variety of muiical inftruments, in this part of the world. They fometimcs amufed themfelves with teaching young gentlemen and ladies the French and german languages, mufick, dancing, and other fimilar accom- Aa 2 pliftV i88 A JOURNEY chap. n. plifhments; whereby they gained many friends among I7I9m the people of diftinction; a circumftance, to men in their fituation, both honourable and ufeful. In tobolsky there are always about five or fix thoufand regular troops, horfe and foot, befides a number of irregulars. Thefe troops, added to the natural ftrength of the place, effectually fecure it from any attacks of the neighbouring tartars. The woods and fields about tobolsky are flored with all kinds of game natural to the climate; fuch as the coqlimoge, coq-bruiere, and gilinots; the laft are about the fize of a partridge, their flefti is white and very agreeable. There is another kind of thefe gilinots, fomewhat larger, with rough feet; which, in the winter, turn white as a dove. Alfo the common partridge, which, on the approach of winter, flies off to more temperate climates; wood-cocks, a great variety of fnipes, which fly off in autumn, after having hatched their young. As for water-fowl, no country in the world can produce fuch numbers, and variety; they are alfo birds of paifage. In my Persian journal I gave an account of the vaft flocks of thefe fowls on the ihores of the Caspian fea. Here alfo you meet with feveral kinds of fmall birds, about TO PEKIN. llTc. about the fize of a lark, particularly thofe called fnow- chap. ii. birds. They come to Siberia in vail: flocks in au- I7I9* . . . . cv'VNJ tumn, and remain till the fpring, when they difappear. Many of them are white as fnow, fome fpeckled, and others all over brown. They are reckoned a very fine and delicious di(h. I obferved another very pretty bird, about the fize of a thrufh, having beautiful red and yellow feathers in the wings and tail, with a tuft of brown feathers* on its head, which it raifes at pleafure. Thefe are alfo birds of paffage; and, as they breed no where in Europe or asia that I know of, perhaps both thefe and the fnow-birds may come to Siberia from the northern parts of America. This conjecture will appear not improbable, when it is confidered, that thefe birds are of a hardy nature, and the flight not fo far as is generally imagined. In the woods are various kinds of wild beafls; fuch as bears, wolves, lynxes, feveral forts of foxes, fquir-rels, ermins, fables, martins and rofio-macks, called feelfrefs by the Germans. The furs are better of their kinds than thofe of any other country. The ermins commonly burrow in the open fields, and are caught in traps baited with a bit of fleih; this is done only [po A J O U R N E Y chap. ii. only in the winter, when they are altogether white, I7I9* and the fur moft valuable. In fummer moft of thefe animals turn brown; when they are not killed, becaufe, at this feafon, the fur is of little ufe. There are alio ottars in the rivers and lakes, whofe skins yield a con-fiderable profit. Indeed, furs of all forts, in this country, are very profitable. At prefent, few fables aie caught in this neighbourhood; it is faid they fly from fmoke, which, perhaps, is partly true; yet 1 am apt to believe, that thefe poor animals are chafed away towards the north, to the wild woods, on account of the high value of their skins. The woods of Siberia abound alfo with venifon of feveral forts; as elk, rain-deer, roe-buck, together with an incredible number of hares, which change their colour, from brown in the fummer to white in winter. The hares are generally caught by the country people in toils, more'on account of their skins than their flefh, of which they make but little ufe. The skins are bought by the merchants, and fent, in great quantities, to st. Petersburg, and other ports, in order to be exported to England, Holland, and other countries; where they are chiefly manufactured into hats. Having defcribed the land-animals, I fhall now give fome TO PEKIN. 191 fome account of rhe fifh. In my opinion, there nre chap.il few countries in the world fo well watered, with fine l7l9-' navigable rivers and lakes, as Siberia; and few rivers and lakes produce greater quantities, or more variety, of excellent freih-water fifh, than thofe in this country. For, befides fturgeon, white -fifh, fterlet, and o-thers, to be found in the volga, and the rivers in Russia, there are feveral kinds peculiar to this part of the world; particularly the muchfoon, about the fize of a large carp, and much efteemed by perfons of delicate talfe. Southward from tobolsky the foil is fruitful, producing abundance of wheat, rye, barley, oats, and o-ther grain. The cattle alfo are very numerous, and in winter are fed with hay. In a word, provifions of all kinds are extremely reafonable. From what I have faid, it will appear, that tobolsky is by no means fuch a difagreeable place as is generally imagined. Whatever the opinions of mankind may be, it is the bufi-nefs of a traveller to defcribe places and things without prejudice or partiality, and exhibit them fairly, as they really appear. This principle it fhall be my lludy to keep always in view. Captain tabar, a Swedish officer, was at this time writ- A JOURNEY .11. writing a hiftory of Siberia. He was a gentleman very 9* capable for fuch a performance; and, if it fliall ever be publifhed, it cannot fail of giving great fatisfaction to the curious. Before I leave tobolsky, it will not be improper to give a fbort account of the famous river Irtish, that paifes this place. It continues its courfe a little to the eaftward of the north, in a ftrong but fmooth current, vifiting feveral fmall towns and villages, and receiving many leffer ftreams, and a large river called konda, running eaftward, till it difcharges itfelf into the oby, at a town called samariofsky-yamm, about fix hundred verft below tobolsky. The irtish takes its rife from a great lake, named korzan, in a mountainous country, about fifteen hundred verft to the fouthward of tobolsky. The country about this lake is inhabited by the black Kalmucks, a mighty and numerous people, governed by a prince called Kontayfha. From thefe the Kalmucks on the volga are defcended. After the irtish hath run for many miles, through a hilly country covered with wood, it paifes through a fine fruitful plain, inhabited by the Kalmucks, till it comes to a houfe -called sedmy-palaty, or the seven rooms, fituated to T O P E K I M 195 to the right in coming down the river. It is very fur- chap.ii. prifine to find fuch a regular edifice in the middle of 1719* a defert. Some of the tartars fay it was built by tamerlane, called by the tartars temyr-ack-sack or lame-temyr; others by gingeez-ciian. The building, according to the belt information I could obtain, is of brick or flone, well finifhed, and continues ftill entire. It confifts of feven apartments under one roof, from whence it has the name of the seven palaces. Several of thefe rooms are filled with fcrolls of glazed paper, fairly wrote, and many of them in gilt characters. Some of the fcrolls are black, but the greateft part white. The language in which they are written is that of the tongusts, or Kalmucks. While I was at tobolsky, I met with a foldier in the ftreet with a bundle of thefe papers in his hand. He asked me to buy them; which I did for a fmall fum. I kept them till my arrival in England, when I diftributed them among my friends; particularly to that learned antiquarian Sir hans sloane, who valued them at a high rate, and gave them a place in his celebrated mufeum. Two of thefe fcrolls were fent, by order of the Emperor peter the Firft, to the Royal Academy at paris. The Academy returned a tranflation, which I law in Vol. I. Bb the m A JOURNEY chap. n. the rarity-chamber at st. Petersburg. One of them-. 1719* contained a commiifton to a lama or prieft; and the other a form of prayer to the Deity. Whether this interpretation may be depended on I fhall not determine. The tartars efteem them all facred writings, as appears from the care they take to preferve them. Perhaps they may contain fome curious pieces of antiquity, particularly of ancient hiftory. Above the sed-my pal aty, towards the fource of the irtish, upon the hills and valleys, grows the beft rhubarb in the world, without the leaft culture. Several days journey from the palaces, down the irtish, on the weftern bank, ftands an old tower named k al bazin sha-bashn a, or the the tower of kalbazin. Below this is the lake yamishoff, to the right, where the Russians have built a fmall fort, for the conveni-ency of making and gathering fait from that lake, great quantities whereof are made by the fun; it is brought in barques down the river to tobolsky, and other places. This fort created fome jealoufy to the Kon-tayfha; he fent an ambaflador to the governor of Siberia, requefting to have it demolifhed ; but this demand not being granted, the difference came to an open rupture, the event of which time muft difcover. Defcend- TO P E K I N. 105 Defcendihg farther, you meet with another fettle- chap. 11. ment of the Russians, called shelezinsky, from a ri- l7l9* vulet of that name in its neighbourhood. A little below shelezinsky ftands omuska, a confiderablc town, which alfo derives its name from a river. Both thefe places are fituated on the eaflern bank of the irtish. You now pafs fome inconfiderable places before you arrive at tar a, a little town fituated on the weftern bank, on the road leading from tobolsky to tomsky, through a country called bar aba, of which I fhall give fome account as we proceed to the eaft. Between tar a and tobolsky are a few fmall towns, and many villages, inhabited by Mahometan tartars. And the country abounds with corn, cattle, and fine pafturage. I have now pointed out the courfe of the irtish till it reaches tobolsky, and from thence till it empties itfelf into the river oby. I have nothing further to remark concerning tobolsky and the country around it, and fhould therefore now purfue our journey to the eaftward; but, before I leave this place, I imagine it will not be improper to fubjom a few more particulars relative to the Kontayfha, prince of the Kalmucks, whom I formerly mentioned. I am the more inclined 6 b 2 to iq6 A JOURNEY chap.ii. to do this, as I can entirely depend on my intelligence; ^T1^ having procured it from perfons who have been in that country, and feen this prince; but particularly from an ingenious and penetrating gentleman, who fills a public office in this place, and was employed in feveral meffages to him from the late governor of Siberia. The territories of this prince are bounded by three of the moft potent empires in the world; on the north by russla, by china on the eaft, and by the country of the Great Mogul to the fouth. From the two firft he is feparated by defert plains, and from the third by almoft impaflable mountains. To the fouth-weft his frontiers reach near to bucharia. The Kontayfha is a very powerful prince, and able to bring into the field, at a fhort warning, an hundred thoufand horfemcn, who arc all of them able-bodied men, well mounted, and armed with bows and arrows, lances, and fibres. This is a greater number of horfe than any prince that I know can mufter, except his Russian Majefty, and the Emperor of china. Thefe tartars live in tents, all the year, removing from place to place, as called by ncceflity or inclination. This is the moft ancient and pleafant manner of life. It is entertaining to hear them cpmmiferate, thofe, who are confined to one place of abode3 TO PEKIN. 107 abode, and obliged to fupport themfelves by labour, chap.il which they reckon the greateft flavery. 1719" The Kontayilia has always fome thoulands of his*^^^ fubjects encamped near himfelf, who treat him with great veneration and refpect. And, in juftice to him, it muft be confeffed, that he is as attentive to the in-terefts of his people; and as alfiduous in the admini-ftration of juftice, in particular, as if they were his own' children. ■ The Kalmucks are not fuch favage people as they are generally reprefented; for I am informed a perfon may travel among them with greater fafety, both to his perfon and effects, than in many other countries. The Kontayfha received the deputies from the governor of Siberia, like ambaffadors from foreign princes, and treated them accordingly. This fhows what: high refpect thefe eaftern princes entertain for his Czarifh Majefty, when the governor of Siberia is regarded: as a fovereign. The ceremony on thefe occafions was> as follows. The deputy with his fervants were admitted into 1 the tent, where the Kontayfha fat, with his queen and; feveral children about him. He defired all of them to lit down on carpets or mats; for the Kalmucks, like moft;. A JOURNEY .11. moft Asiatics, ufe no chairs. They were entertained 9' with tea before dinner; and, after it, the Kontayfha dif-miffed the deputy in a friendly manner, telling him, he would fend for him next day to receive an anfwer to the governor's letter, which he punctually performed. This anfwer was expreffed in very plain and con-cife terms. Thefe tartars in general write with brevity and pcrfplcuity. I have feen feveral of their letters tranflated, which pleafed me extremely, as they contained no tedious preambles, nor difgufling repetitions, which ferve only to perplex the reader. The Emperor of china was fome time ago engaged in a war with the Kontayfha, about fome frontier towns, of which the latter took poffeffion, and maintained his claim with a ftrong army. The Emperor fent againft him an army of three hundred thoufand men, under the command of his fourteenth fon, who is reckoned the beft general of all his children. Notwithstanding their fuperiority in numbers, the Kontayfha defeated the Chinese in feveral actions. The Emperor at laft thought it beft to accommodate the difference, and a.peace was concluded to the fatisfaction of both parties. s It muft be obferved, that the Chinese, being obliged i .. to TO PEKIN. 199 to undertake a long and difficult march, through a de- chap.it. fert and barren country, lying weftward of the long 17l9' wall; being alfo incumbered with artillery, and heavy carriages containing provifions for the whole army du*> ring their march; had their force greatly diminiilied before they reached the enemy. The Kontayfha, oh the other hand, having intelligence of the great army coming again ft him, waited patiently on his own frontiers, till the enemy was within a few days march of his camp, when he fent out detachments of light horfe to fet fire to the grafs, and lay wafte the country. He alfo diffracted them, day and night, with repeated a-larms, which, together with want of provifions, obliged them to retire with confidcrable lofs. This method of carrying on war, by wafting the country, is very ancient among the tartars, andprac-tifed by all of them from the Danube eaftward. This circumftance renders them a dreadful enemy to regular troops, who muft thereby be deprived of all fubfi-ftence, while the tartars, having always many fparc horfes to kill and eat, arc at no lofs for provifions. I have only to add, that the Kontayfha muft be the fame prince, v/ho, in our European maps, is generally called the Great Cham of tartary. As no Europeans* A JOURNEY .11. peans travel through that country, thefe maps muft 9* be very erroneous. It is however to be expected, that the Russians will, in time, make a more complete discovery of the eaftern parts of asia. Our baggage did not arrive at tobolsky till the 23d of December. The people refrelhed themfelves till the 27th, when they again fet out, taking the road alone: the irtish to tara. The ambaiTador and his retinue remained to pafs the reft of the holidays. January 9th, 1720, we proceeded towards tara. We paffed though many tartar villages, and at night lodged in one of their little huts, and warmed our-felves at a good fire on the hearth. Thefe houfes con-fift generally of one or two rooms, according to the ability of the landlord. Near to the hearth is fixed an iron-kettle to drefs the victuals. In one end of the apartment is placed a bench, about eighteen inches high, and fix feet broad, covered with mats, or skins of wild beafts, upon which all the family fit by day, and fleep in the night. The walls are built of wood and mofs, confifting of large beams, laid one above another, with a layer of mofs between every two beams. AH the roofs are raifed. A fquare-hole is cut out for 3 window, and to fupply the want of glafs, a piece of ice TO PEKIN. 2oi ke is formed to fit the place exadtly, which lets in a chap. ir. eood hVht. Two or three pieces will laft the whole l720* winter. Thefe tartars are very neat and cleanly, both in their perfons and houfes. They ufe no ftoves, as the Russians do. Near the houfe there is commonly a fhade for the cattle. We continued our journey along the banks of the irtish, having the river to the right or left, as the road lay from one tartar village to another. The 15th, we reached tara, a fmall town, reckoned about five hundred verft from tobolsky; in all this road we did not meet with a Russian village, except a fmall one near tara. The country abounds with woods, corn-fields, and fine pafturage, which appeared fufficiently from the quantities of hay, and the good condition of the cattle, though the face of the country was covered with deep fnow. We found the air at tara much milder than at any place fince we left kazan. Tara is fituated on the irtish, and fortified with a deep ditch, ftrong palifades, and wooden towers, fufri-cient to defend it againft the fudden attacks of the tartars, called kossatshyorda, who inhabit weft- Vol. Ii C c ward 202 A JOURNEY chap.ti. ward of the irtish, and are very troublefome neigh-J72°- hours. Here we laid in provifions for our journey over the baraba; which fignifies, in the tartar language, a marfhy plain. Its inhabitants are a mixture of different tartar tribes, called barabintzy, from the name of the country in which they live. They are a poor miferable people, being treated as fubjects both by the Emperor and the Kontayfha; and obliged to pay a tribute, in furs and skins of wild beads, to each. They have no grain nor cattle of any kind, except a few rain-deer; and fubfift by hunting and fiftiing. What fifti they confume not in the fummer, are dried and fmok-ed for their winter provifions* They are partly of the Mahometan and partly of the Kalmuck religion; but this difference caufes no difputes. It is generally reckoned, that more robberies are committed in baraba, than in any country on the road to china; not by the natives, for they are very honcft and hofpitable; but by the Kalmucks, who come to . collect tribute for the Kontayfha; who fometimes pick up travellers, and carry them off with all their effects. It was faid, that a ftrong party of them, having intelligence that the ambaflador was to pafs that, way, waited TO PEKIN. 20; ed to intercept him; on which account he took thirty cHAP.ir. dragoons and fome coffacks, from the garrifon of to- j72°' bolsky, to efcort him to tomsky; which was a fuffi* cient guard againft any robbers who might attack us: and he knew the Kontayiba was too polite a prince to authorife his fubjects to moleil any foreign minifter who had done him no injury, notwithftanding the differences that fubfifted between him and his Czarifh Majefty. Our baggage having waited at tara till our arrival, we left that place on the 18th; and, next day, came to a large Russian village, fixty verft from tara, and the laft inhabited by Russians, till you pafs the baraba and come to the river oby. In the places through which we paffed, the ambaf* fador fent for all the hunters and fportfmen, that he might inquire what kinds of game and wild beafts were in their neighbourhood. Hunting is the employment of moft of the young fellows in this country; and is very profitable, as they fell the furs to great advantage. We found that this place produced great plenty both of game and wild beafts, but few fables. In the fpring, a number of elks and flags come hither, from the fouth; many of which are killed by the w* C c 2 feabi*- 2o4 A JOURNEY chap. ii. habitants, both on account of their flefh and their i-7 2 °- hides. What of the flefh is not confumed frefh they fait. The hides are very large, and are dreffed into excellent buff. The huntfman, having found the track of a flag upon the fnow, purfues it upon his fnow-fhoes, with his bow and arrows, and little dog, till the animal is quite fatigued: for, the fnow on the furface, being melted by the heat of the fun, and congealed, at night, by the frofl, but not flrong enough to bear the weight of fuch an animal; he finks deep at every ftep, and the fharp ice cuts his ancles, and lames him; fo that he becomes an eafy prey to the hunter. One of thefe hunters told me the following flory; which was confirmed by feveral of his neighbours. That, in the year 171 3, in the month of March, being out a hunting, he difcovered the tract of a flag, which he purfued; at overtaking the animal, he was fomewhat flartlcd, on obferving it had only one horn, ftuck in the middle of its forehead. Being near this village he drove it home, and fliowed it, to the great admiration of the fpectators. He afterwards killed it, and eat the flefh; and fold the horn to a comb-maker; in the town of tara, for ten alteens, about fifteen pence TO PEKIN. 20t pence Sterling. I inquired carefully about the ifiape chap.ii. and fize of this unicorn, as I fhall call it, and was told l72°* it exactly refembled a flag. The horn was of a brown-ifh colour, about one archeen, or twenty eight inches long; and twifted, from the root, till within a fingers length of the top, where it was divided, like a fork, into two points very fharp. The ioth, we entered the baraba, and continued travelling through it, for ten days, when we came to a large Russian village called tzausky ostrogue, from a rivulet of that name; which difcharges itfelf into the ory, a little diifance eaftward from this place. Here is a fmall fort, furrounded with a ditch and palifades; mounted with a few cannon, and garrifoned by fome militia of the country, in order to prevent the incur-* fions of the Kalmucks. We ftaid a day at this place; to refrefh ourfelves; and, having changed horfes, proceeded towards tomsky. Baraba is really what its name fignifies, an extenfive rnarfhy plain. It is generally full of lakes, and marlhy grounds, overgrown with tall woods of afpin, alder, willows, and other aquatics; particularly many large birch-trees, having their bark as white and Imooth as paper. The lakes abound with various kinds of fillies; fuch as* pikes 206 A JOURNEY chap.n. pikes, perches, breams, eels; and, particularly, a fifh l72°' called karrafs, of an uncommon bisrnefs, and very fat. Thefe the inhabitants dry, in fummer, for winter provifions; which are all the food to be found among them. I have eat of it often, and thought it not difagreeable. In winter, they ufe melted fnow for water. They are very hofpitable; and defire nothing, in return of their civilities, but a little tobacco to fmoke, and a dram of brandy, of which they are very fond. The drefs, both of men and women, confifts of long coats of fheep-skins, which they get from the Russians and Kalmucks, in exchange for more valuable furs. As they wear no other apparel, not even fhirts, they are very nafly. Their huts are moft miferable habitations, and funk about one half under ground. We were glad, however, to find them, as a baiting-place in fuch a cold feafon. The barabintzy, like moft of the ancient natives of Siberia, have many conjurers among them; whom they call fhamans, and fometimes priefts. Many of the female fex alfo affume this character. The fhamans are held in great eftecm by the people; they pretend to correfpondence with the fhaytan, or devil; by whom, they fey, they are informed of all paft and future TO PEKIN. 207 tore events, at any diflance of time or place. Our chap. ir. ambaffador refolved to inquire flrictly into the truth I720* of many ffrange (lories, generally believed, concerning the ihamans; and fent for all of fame, in that way, in the places through which wc paffed. In baraba, we went to vifit a famous woman of this character. When we entered her houfe, fhe continu* ed bufy about her domcflic affairs, without almofl taking any notice of her guefls. However, after (lie had fmoked a pipe of tobacco, and drunk a dram of brandy, fhe began to be more chearful. Our people asked her fome trifling queflions about their friends; but fhe pretended to be quite ignorant, till fhe got more tobacco, and fome inconfidcrable prefents; when fhe began to collect, her conjuring tools. Firfl, fhe brought the fhaytan; which is nothing but a piece of wood, wherein is cut fomething refembling a human head, adorned with many filk and woolen rags, of various colours; then, a fmall drum, about a foot diameter, to which were fixed many brafs and iron rings, and hung round alfo with rags. She now began a difmal tune, keeping time with the drum, which fhe beat with a flick for that purpofc; feveral of her neighbours, whom fhe had previoufly called to her afiiflance, joined in the chorus 2o8 A JOURNEY chap. ii. chorus. During this fcene, which lafled about a quar-^7^^ter of an hour, fhe kept the fhaytan, or image, clofc by herfelf, ifuck up in a corner. The charm being now finifhed, fhe defired us to put our queftions. Her anfwers were delivered very artfully, and wich as much obfcurity and ambiguity, as they could have been given by any oracle. She was a young woman, and very handfome. On the 29th of January, we reached the oby, which we croffed on the ice, and entered a country pretty Well inhabited by Russians; where we found provifions, and frefh horfes as often as we wanted them. The country is generally covered with.woods, except about the villages; where are fine corn-fields, and good pafture grounds. Our courfe lay a little to the northward of the eaft from tzausky ostrogue. February 4th, we arrived fafe at the town of tomsky, fo called from the noble river tomm, upon the eaftern bank of which it (lands. CHAR TO PEKIN. 209 CHAP. III. CHAPTER III. j^ysL; Occurrences at tomsky; Obfervations on the tzulimm tartars, &c. and journey continued to elimsky. rj~*HE citadel of tomsky is fituated on an eminence, and contains the commandants houfe, publick offices, and barracks for the garrifon. The fortifications, like moft others in this country, are of wood. The town flands under the hill, along the banks of the river tomm. The country about this place is plea-fant and fruitful. From the top of the hill you have a very extenfive view every way, except to the fouth, where it is interrupted by hills. Beyond thefe hills there is a large, dry, and open plain, which ffretches a great way fouthward. About eight or ten days journey from tomsky, in this plain, are found many tombs, and burying places of ancient heroes; who, in all probability, fell in battle. Thefe tombs are cafily diftinguifhed by the mounds, of earth and flones raifed upon them. When, or by whom, thefe battles were fought, fo far to the northward, is uncertain. I was informed by the tartars in the baraba, that tamerlane, or timyr-ack-sack, Vol, I. Dd >as Sic* A JOURNEY chap. in. as they call him, had many engagements in that coun-1720. try wjtk t|ie KALMUCKS. whom he in vain endeavoured to conquer. Many perfons go from tomsky, and o-ther parts, every fummer, to thefe graves; which they dig up, and find, among the afhes of the dead, confiderablc quantities of gold, filver, brafs, and fome precious flones; but particularly hilts of fwords and armour. They find alfo ornaments of faddles and bridles, and other trappings for horfes; and even the bones of horfes, and fome times thofe of elephants. Whence it appears, that when any general or perfon of diftinction was interred, all his arms, his favourite horfe and fer-vant, were buried with him in the fame grave; this cuifoin prevails to this day among the Kalmucks and other tartars, and feems to be of great antiquity. It appears from the number of graves, that many thousands muft have fallen on thefe plains; for the people have continued to dig for fuch treafure many years, and ftill find it unexhaufted. They are, fomctimes indeed, interrupted, and robbed of all their booty, by parties of the Kalmucks, who abhor the difturbing die afhes of the dead. I have feen feveral pieces of armour, and other cu-riofitcS, that were dug out of thefe tombs; particularly TO PEKIN. 2ir larly an armed man on horfe-back, eaft in brafs, of no chap. in. mean defign nor workmanfhip; alfo figures of deer, eaft in pure gold, which were fplic through the middle, and had fome fmall holes in them, as intended for ornaments to a quiver, or the furniture of a horfe. While we were at tomsky, one of thefe grave-diggers told me, that once they lighted on an arched vault; where they found the remains of a man, with his bow, arrows, lance, and other arms, lying together on a filver table. On touching the body it fell to duft. The value of the table and arms was very con-fid erable. The country about the fource of the river tomm> near which thefe tombs are, is very fruitful and plea-fant. At the fource of the tomm the Russians have a fmall town called kuznetsky. This river is formed by the kondoma, and many leffer rivers; all which run to the north. In the hills above kuznetsky, there had lately been difcovered rich mines of copper, and fome of filver; which, fince I was in this country, have been greatly improved. On the hills, and in the woods near this place, are tnany forts of wild beafts; particularly the urus, or D d 2 uhr- 212 A JOURNEY chap. in. uhr-ox, one of the fiercefl animals the world produces, l72°' and exceedino;, in fize and ftreno;th, all the horned fpecies. Their force and agility is fuch, that no wolf, bear, nor tiger, dare to engage with them. Thefe animals are found in the woods of Poland, and fome o-ther parts of Europe. As they are well known I need not defcribe them. In the fame woods is found another fpecies of oxen/, called bubul by the tartars; it is not fo big as the urus; its body and limbs are very handfome; it has a high moulder and a flowing tail, with long hair growing from the rump to the extremity, like that of a horfe. Thofe I faw were tame, and as tractable as Other cattle. Here are alfo wild affes. I have feen many of their skins. They have, in all refpects, the head, tail, and hoofs, of an ordinary afs ; but their hair is waved, white and brown, like that of a tiger. There is, befides, a number of wild horfes, of a chef-nut colour; which cannot be tamed, though they are catched when foals. Thefe horfes differ nothing from the common kind in fhape, but are the moff watchful creatures alive. One of them waits always on the heights, to give warning to the reft; and, upon the leaft :mproach of danger, runs to the herd, making all the noife TO PEKIN. 2ij noife it can; upon which all of them fly away, like fo chap.in. many deer. The flallion drives up the rear, neighing, I720, biting and kicking thofe who do not run faff enough. Notwithftanding this wonderful fagacity, thefe animals are often furprized by the Kalmucks; who ride in a-mongthem, well mounted on fwifc horfes, and kill them with broad lances. Their flefh they efteem excellent food; and ufe their skins to fleep upon, inftead of couches. Thefe are the animals peculiar to this-part of the country; and, befides thefe, there are many more, common to this place with the reft of Siberia. The river tomm, having paffed kuznetsky, tomsky, and feveral other towns of lefs note, empties itfelf into the oby, at a place called nikolsky, about am hunt!re 1 verft below tomsky, in a country overgrown' with thick woods. Here the tomm lofes its name, and: makes a great addition to the oby, which now commences a mighty ft ream. The tomm abounds with variety of fine fifh; fuch as. fturgcon, fterlet, muchfoon, and the largcft and beft; quabs, called in French guion, that 1 have any where feen. The method of catching thefe fifh is by planting pales acrofs the river, in which there is left one narrow, opening for the fifties to pafs through; above this opening 214 A JOURNEY chap.iil ing, a hole is cut in the ice; and near it is placed a fire, ^l^^j uPon f°me Hones laid for that purpofe. The fifh, on feeing the light of the fire, flops a moment in its paf-fage; and, at this inflant, the fiiTierman ftrik.es it with a fpear, through the hole in the ice. This exercife requires great quicknefs; for the fifh is gone in a trice. I killed feveral of them myfelf. Thus, having made a fhort excurfion up and down the tomm, and given a brief defcription of the country adjacent, I return again to tomsky. Tomsky is a good market for furs of all forts ; but particularly of fables, black and red foxes, ermins, and fquirrels. The fquirrels called teleutsky, from the name of the diffricl where they are caught, are reckoned the bcfl of that fpecies. They have a blackifh flripe down their back. Befides the common fquirrel, there is another fpecies found here called the flying fquirrel. There is little peculiar in its fhape or fize; only, it has, at the upper joint of the thigh of the fore-leg, a fmall membrane, flretching to the fhoulder, fomewhat like the wing of a bat, which it extends at pleafure; and is thereby enabled to fpring much farther, from tree to tree, than it could do without the help of thefe wings. Both TO PEKIN. 2T5 Both the ermins and fquirrels are caught only in win- chap.iil ter; becaufe in fummer their fur is quite brown, fhort, 172°-and of little ufe. We waited fome days at tomsky for the arrival of our baggage. Here we found feveral Swedish, officers; who had good quarters in a plentiful, though diflant, place. After our people had refreihed themfelves for two days, they fet out again on the road to yeni- seysky. During our abode in tomsky, we diverted ourfelves with fifhing and hunting. We were prefent alfo at feveral concerts of muficlc, performed by the Swedish officers, at Mr. kosloffs, commandant of the place. Thefe gentlemen were not lefs expert in touching their inftruments-, than their companions at tobolsky,, Mr. kosloffIs a good-natured and chearful gentleman, and treats thefe officers with great humanity. They had along with them a Swedish parfon, Mr. ve-stadius, a man of genius and learning. The 9th, we were entertained at the commandant's, where were afTemblcd fome hundreds of his cos sacks, or light horfe, armed with-bows and arrows. After going through their ufual cxercife, they fhowed their dexterity in mooting on horfe-back at full fpecd. They ©reeled 2i6 A JOURNEY chap. in. creeled a pole, for a mark, in an open field; and, paffing 1720# it, at full gallop, let fly their arrows; and foon fplit it all to fhivers. The 12th, about midnight, we went into our fledges, and fet out on our journey towards yeniseysky. For the two following days, we had tolerably good roads, lying through a pretty fine country, inhabited by Russians. The villages are but thinly fcattered, yet fuf-ficiently near one another to afford provifions and frefh horfes. On the 14th, we reached a large navigable river, called tzulimm. We went up this river upon the ice. We met with neither houfe, nor inhabitant, for the fpace of fix days. We could get no frefh horfes, and were obliged to carry both provifions and forage along with us; which made this part of the road very tedious. During all this time, we had no where to warm ourfclves, or drefs our victuals, but in the thick overgrown woods, which occupy both fides of the river. There is great plenty of fallen trees in thefe woods, of which we made large fires. The trees are chiefly pitch-fir, rifing like a pyramid, with long fpreading branches hanging to the ground; which render thefe woods almoft impaffable to man or beaft. We frequently TO PEKIN. 217 quently fet fire to the mofs and dried fibres of thefe chap. nr. firs. In the fpace of a minute the fire mounts to the I72°* r c/W*' top of the tree, and has a very pretty effect. The kindling fo many fires warmed all the air around. In fummer, the banks of this river are inhabited by a tribe of tartars, called by the Russians tzulimm-zy, from the name of the river, who live by fifhing and hunting. We found feveral of their empty huts, as we went along. In autumn, thefe people retire from this inhofpitable place, towards the fouth, near to towns and villages, where they can find fubfiflence. The 20th, we arrived at a Russian village, called meletzky-ostrogue, where we ftaid a day to refrefh ourfelves and horfes. In the neighbourhood of this place we found many huts of thefe tzulimm-tartars, who feem to be a different race from all of that name I have yet mentioned. Their complexion indeed is fwarthy, like that of moft of the other defcendents of the ancient natives of Siberia; but I have feen many of them having white fpots on their skins, from head to foot, of various figures and fizes. Many imagine thefe fpots natural to the people; but I am rather inclined to believe they proceed from their conftanc diet of fifh and other animal food, without bread. This, Vol. I. E e of 2iS A JOURNEY chap.in. of courfe, creates a fcorbutick habit of body, which ^T2^^often breaks out in infants; and the fears falling off, leave that part of the skin as if it had been fcalded, which never recovers its natural colour. 1 have however feen feveral children with thefe fpots, who feemed healthy. The tzulimms, like other tartars, live in huts half-funk under ground. They have a fire in the w middle, with a hole at the top to let out the fmoke, and benches round the fire, to fit or ly upon. This feems to be the common method of living among all the northern nations, from lap land, eaftward, to the Japanese ocean. The tzulimms fpeak a barbarous language, com-pofed of words from many other languages. Some of our people, who fpoke Turkish, told me, they had many Arabic k words, which they underftood. They are poor, miferable, and ignorant heathens. The arch-bifhop of tobolsky, in perfon, came lately hither, and baptifed fome hundreds of them, who were inclined to embrace the christian faith. As they area well-difpofed and harmlefs people, probably in a fhort time jjtcy may be all converted. The river tzulimm has its fource about three hundred TO PEKIN, 219 dred verfl: above meletsky ostrocue; from this place chap.in. it continues its courfe to the northward, till it meets 172Qt with the river oby, at a place called s 11 abannsky ostrogue. ostrogue, in the Russian language, fig-nifies a ftrong palifade, inclofing a certain piece of ground. On the firft fettlements made by the Russians in thefe parts, fuch inclofurcs were neceifary to prevent any furprife from the inhabitants. The 21 ft, early in the morning, we left meletsky, and travelled through thick woods, along narrow roads. Next day, we came to a fmall Russian village, called melay-keat; where we found our baggage, for the firft time, fince we quitted tomsky. Near this place the river keat has its fource; and runs towards the weft, till it meets with the oby. Having changed horfes at melay-keat, we left our baggage, and proceeded on our journey. On the evening of the 2 2d> we came to a zimovey, where we halted a little, to refrefli ourfelves and bait our horfes. A zimovy is a houfe or two, built in a place at a great diftance from any town or village, for the convenience of travellers; and is a fort of inn, where you generally find a warm room, frefh bread, and a wholefome and agreeable liquor, called quafs, Ee 2 made 220 A JOURNEY chap. m. made of male, or rye-meal, fteeped and fermented$ ^7^^ with hay and oacs, at eafy rates. From this place we travelled to beloy, a large village, where we changed horfes, and proceeded. From hence to yeniseysky the country is well cultivated. Upon the road are many russ villages, where we got frefli horfes, as often as we pleafed, without halting ten minutes. Thus we continued travelling, day and night, till we arrived, on the 23 d, at the town of yeniseysky; where we had a friendly reception, and good entertainment, from the commandant, Mr. beckli-mishof, who had come fome miles from town to meee his old friend the ambaflador. Here I found Mr. kanbar nikititz aikinfiof, with whom I got acquainted at cazan, while we wintered there, in the journey to per spa. Some crofs accidene had been the occafion of his coming to this place. He enjoyed full liberty to walk about at pleafure. He un-derftood feveral languages, was well acquainted with hiftory, and a chearful good-natured companion. Here we paffed the holidays called Mafslapitza, or the Carnaval, which is held on the week before Lent, in the mean time our carriages arrived, which were diG patched again as foon as pomblc. The TO PEKIN. 221 The town of yeniseysky is pleafantly fituated in chap.iii. a plain, on the weftern bank of the river yenisey, from I720, which the town takes its name. It is a large and populous place, fenced with a ditch, palifades, and wooden towers. Here is a good market for furs of all forts; particularly of the animals called piefly, which are of two colours, white and dove-colour. Thefe creatures are caught far to the northv/ard of this place. They are nearly of the fhape and fize of a fox ; having a fhort bufhy tail, and a thick foft downy fur, very light and warm, which is much efleemed by the great men in the northern parts of china; and, by them, made chiefly into cufhions, on which they fit in winter. Befides the above, there is here another creature called roffomack in russ, and feel frefs by the Germans; becaufe they imagine it eats a great deal more in proportion than other animals. I have feen feveral of them alive. They are very fierce, and about the fhape and fize of a badger. The neck, back, and tail are black; but about the belly the hair is of a brown-ifh colour. The blacker they are, the more valuable; The skin, being thick, is only ufed in caps and muffsi Alfo elks, rain-deer, and flags. The latter retire to the fouth on the approach of winter, and return in the fpring, 222 A JOURNEY chap. in. fpring. Here are likewife an incredible number of ^7^^ white-hares, which perhaps I may mention afcerwards. I mufl not omit the black foxes, which are in great abundance about yeniseysky. Their fur is reckoned the mofl beautiful of any kind; it is even preferred to the fable with refpect. to lightnefs and warmnefs. I faw here one of their skins valued at five hundred crowns, and fome of them far exceed this fum. Before I leave this place I mall give a fhort defcrip-tion of the courfe of the famous river y e m i s e y, according to the beff information I could procure. It rifes in a hilly country, at a great diflancc fouthward from this place. Being joined by many rivers in its courfe, it grows into a mighty flream; and is, at yeniseysky, full as large as the volga. It runs the long* eft courfe of any river on this vaft continent. The firft town, of any note, in coming down this river, is krassno-yarr, which ftands on the weftern bank. It is a place of confiderablc trade, particularly in furs. From this place, along the banks, are many villages, till the yenisey meets the lower tongusta, a lanre river, coming from the eaft, a few verft above yeniseysky. Below this place there are many inconfider-able fettlements, till you come to mangaseysky, a town TO PEKIN. 223 town femous for furs, and the fhrine of an illuftrious chap m. feint, cailed v^ssile mangaseysky, much frequented l72'°* by the devout people in thefe parts. Above tins place the yenisey receives the podka-mena-tongust% a large river, running from the fouth eaft; and, at mangaseysky, it meets another river, called turochansky, coming from the weft. The yenisey now continues its courfe, almoft due north, till it difcharges itfelf into the ocean. This river abounds with variety of excellent fifh; fuch as I have already mentioned, but in leffer quantities. The 27th, we left yeniseysky, and travelled about eight or ten verft along the fouth bank of the river, when we came to thick and tall woods, which obliged us to leave the land and march along the river, on the ice, which was very uneven. This roughnefs is caufed by the froft fetting in about autumn, with a ftrong wefterly wind, which drives up great cakes of ice upon one another, in fome places four or five feet high. If the froft happens to begin in calm weather, the ice is very fmooth, and eafy for fledges. The 28th, we proceeded along the yenisey, meet-ine fometimes with villages. The rigour of the cold was much abated; but the face of winter appeared e- very 224 A JOURNEY chap. in. very where, without the leaft fign of fpring. At even-I72^' ing, we entered the river tongusta, which we found as rough as the former; but, as both the banks were overgrown with thick woods, we were obliged to keep along the ice. Next day, we ftill proceeded along the river, in blow-ins: weather and driving fnow. The i ft of March, we overtook our baggage, which we paffed; it being thought more convenient, both in order to procure lodging and frefh horfes, that the heavy carriages fhould travel behind. We continued our journey, for feveral days, along the tongusta. We found, now and then, little villages, or fingle houfes, on the banks. One day we chanced to meet a prodigious flock of hares, all as white as the fnow on which they walked. I fpeak within compafs when I fay there were above five or fix hundred of them. They were coming down the river, very deliberately, on a fmall path, of their own making, clofe to the beaten road. As foon as they faw us, all of them run into the woods, without feem-ing much frightened. I am informed that thefe hares travel to the fouth, in much greater flocks than this, every fpring, and return in autumn, when the rivers TO PEKIN. 225 vers are frozen and the fnow falls. In moil; of the chap. hi. villages, we found plenty of this fort of venifon; the I72°-inhabitants, however, value it but little; for they catch thefe hares more on account of their skins, of which they make confiderable profits, than their flefh. The tongusy, fo called from the name of the river, who live along its banks, are the porterity of the ancient inhabitants of Siberia, and differ in language, manners, and drefs, and even in their perfons and feature, from all the other tribes of thefe people I have had occafion to fee. They have no houfes, where they remain for any time, but range through the woods, and along rivers, at pleafure; and, wherever they come, they erect a few fpars, inclining to one another at the top; thefe they cover with pieces of birchen bark, few-ed together, leaving a hole at the top to let out the fmoke. The fire is placed in the middle. They are very civil and tractable, and like to fmoke tobacco, and drink brandy. About their huts they have generally a good flock of rain-deer, in which all their wealth confifls. The men are tall and able-bodied, brave, and very honefl. The women are of a middle fize, and virtuous. I have feen many of the men with oval figures, like wreaths, on their fore-heads and chins; and fome- Vol. I. Ff times !>2cf A JOURNEY chap. nr. times a figure, refembling the branch of a tree, reaching-1720. from fac corner 0f tne Cye to tne mouth. Thefe are made, in their infancy, by pricking the parts with a needle, and rubbing them with charcoal, the marks whereof remain as long as the perfon lives. Their complexion is fwarthy. Their faces are not fo flat as thofe of the kal muks, but their countenances more open. They are altogether unacquainted with any kind of literature, and worihip the fun and moon. They have many ilia-mans among them, who differ little from thofe I formerly defcribed. I was told of others, whofe abilities in fortune-telling far exceeded thefe of the fhamans at this place, but they lived far northward. They cannot bear to flcep in a warm room, but retire to their huts, and lie about the fire on skins of wild beails. It is furprizing how thofe creatures can fuffer the very pier-* cjng cold in thefe parts. The women are drefled in a fur-gown, reaching be-low.the knee, and tied about the waift .with a girdle. This girdle is about three inches broad, made of deer's skin, having the hair curioufiy ftitched down and ornamented; to which is fattened, at each fide, an iron-ring, that fcrves to carry a tobacco-pipe, and other trinkets gf.fniaJf value, Their'gowns are. alfo- ftitched down TO PEKIN. z-y the breaft, and about the neck. Their long black hair chap. nr. is plaited, and tied about their heads, above which I720, they wear a fmall fur-cap, which is becoming enough. Some of them have fmall ear-rings. Their feet are dreifed in buskins, made of deer-skins, which reach to the knee, and are tied about the ancles with a thong of leather. The drefs of the men is very fimple, and fit for action. It confiffs of a fhort jacket, with narrow fleeves, made of deer's skin, having the fur outward; troufers and hofe of the fame kind of skin, both of one piece, and tight to the limbs. They have befides a piece of fur, that covers the breaft and ftomach, which is hung about the neck with a thong of leather. This, for the moft part, is neatly ftitched and ornamented by their wives. Round their heads they have a ruff, made of the tails of fquirrels, to preferve the tips of the cars from the cold. There is nothing on the crown, but the hair fmoothed, which hangs in a long plaited lock behind their backs. Their arms are a bow and feveral forts of arrows, according to the different kinds of game they intend to hunt. The arrows are carried, in a quiver, on their backs, and the bow always in their left hand. Befides thefe, they Ff 2 have 228 A JOURNEY chap. in. have a fhort lance, and a little hatchet. Thus accor> ^7^*^ tred, they are not afraid to attack the fierceft creature in the woods, even the ftrongeft bear; for they are flout men, and dexterous archers. In winter, which is the feafon for hunting wild beafts, they travel on what are called fnow ftioes, without which it would be importable to make their way through the deep fnow. Thefe are made of a very thin piece of light wood, a-bout five feet long, and live or fix inches broad, incline ing to a point before, and fquare behind. In the middle is fixed a thong, through which the feet are put. On thefe fhoes a perfon may walk fafely over the decpeft fnow; for a man's weight will not fink them above an inch; thefe however can only be uled on plains. They have a different kind for afcending hills, wich the skins of fcals glued to the boards, having the hair inclined backwards, which prevents the Hiding of the fhoes; fo that they can afcend a hill very eafily; and, in defcendr ing, they Hide downwards at a great rate. The nation of the toncusy was very numerous; but is, of late, much diminifhed by the fmall pox. It is remarkable, that they knew nothing of this diftem-pcr, till the Russians arrived among them. They are fo much afraid of this difeafe, that, if any one of a far mily TO PEKIN. 229 mily is feizcd with it, the reft immediately make the CHAP. lit. patient a little hut, and fet by him fome water and I72°# victuals; then, packing up every thing, they march off to the windward, each carrying an earthen pot, with burning coals in it, and making a dreadful lamentation as they go along. They never revifit the fick, till they think the danger paft. If the perfon dies, they place him on a branch of a tree, to which he is tied, with ftrong wythes, to prevent his falling. When they go a hunting into the woods, they carry with them no provifions; but depend entirely on what they are to catch. They eat every animal that comes in their way, even a bear, fox, or wolf. The fquirrels are reckoned delicate food; but the ermins have fuch a ftrong rank tafte and fmell, that nothing but ftarving can oblige them to eat their flefh. When a tonguse kills an elk or deer, he never moves from the place, till he has eat it up, unlefs he happens to be near his family; in which cafe, he carries part of it home. He is never at a lofs for fire, having always a tinder-box about him; if this fhould happen to be wanting, he kindles a fire by rubbing two pieces of wood againft each other. They eat nothing raw, but: hi great extremity, TEfid 23o A JOURNEY chap. in. The fables are not caught in the fame manner as ^7^^other animals. The fur is fo tender, that the leaft mark of an arrow, or ruffling of the hair, fpoils the fale of the skin. In hunting them they only ufe a little dog, and a net. When a hunter finds the track of a fable upon the fnow, he follows it, perhaps, for two or three days, till the poor animal, quite tired, takes refuge in fome tall tree; for it can climb like a cat; the hunter then fprcads his net around the tree, and makes a fire; the fable, unable to endure the fmoke, immediately defcends, and is caught in the net. I have been told, by fome of thefe hunters, that, when hard pinched with hunger, on fuch long chaccs, they take two thin boards, one of which they apply to the pit of the fto-mach, and the other to the back oppofite to it; the extremities of thefe boards are tied with cords, which arc drawn tighter by degrees, and prevent their feeling: the cravin&s of hunger. Although I have obferved, that the tongusy, in general, worihip the fun and moon, there are many exceptions to this obfervation. I have found intelligent people among them, who believed there was a being fuperior to both fun and moon; and who created them and all the world. I mail TO PEKIN. 231 I ihall only remark farther, that from all the ac- chap.nr. counts I have heard and read of the natives of cana- 1720* da, there is no nation, in the world, which they fo much refemble as the tongusians. The diflance between them is not fo great as is commonly imagined. The 4th of March, we came to a little monaftery, called troytza, dedicated to the Holy Trinity; where we found about half a dozen monks, who gave us an hofpitable reception in their cells, and furnifhed us with provifions and frefh horfeSi The monalfery ftands upon the north fide of the river, on a very pleafant though folitary bank, encompaffed with woods, cornfields, and good pafturage. Moft of the villages are on the north fide of the river, as it is higher than the fouth fide. The fame day, we proceeded on our journey along the river. We met with, daily, great flocks of hares in their progrefsj to the weftward, and many tongusians in their huts. It is to be obferved, that, from this river northward to the frozen ocean, there are no inhabitants, except a few tongusians on the banks of the great rivers; the whole of this moft extenfive country being overgrown with dark impenetrable woods. The foil, along the banks of this river, is good; and produces 232 A JOURNEY chap. in. duces wheat, barley, rye, and oats. The method ta-I720- ken by the inhabitants to deflroy the large fir-trees, is, to cut off a ring of bark from the trunk, about a foot broad, which prevents the afcending of the fap, and the tree withers in a few years. This prepares it for being burnt in a dry feafon; by which means, the ground is both cleared of the wood, and manured by the afhes, without much labour. The Russians obferve, that, where the fort of fir, commonly called the scotch fir, grows, the ground never fails of producing corn; but it is not fo where the pitch, or any other kind of fir, prevails. The 7th, we came to the head of the tongusky, which is formed by the conflux of two other rivers, the Angara and the elimm. The firft iffues from the great baykall lake; and runs towards the weft, till it meets the tongusky, when it lofes its name. We left the angara and tongusky on our right hand, and proceeded along theelimm, which we found much fmoother than the tongusky. The elimm is a confi-derably large and navigable river. The banks on the fouth fide are very high, and covered with rugged rocks, overgrown with woods; but, to the north, you meet with feveral villages, corn-fields, and pafturage. We TO PEKIN. 233 We kept on our courfe up the elimm, a little to chap.iii. the northward of the eaft, till the 9th, when we arriv- J^-^ ed at the town of elimsky, fo called from the name of the river, which ftands in a narrow valley, on the fouth fide of the river, encompaflfed with high hills and rocks covered with woods. This place is but fmall, and is only confiderable as it ftands on the road to the eaftern parts of Siberia; for travellers to china generally take to the fouth-eaft, towards irkut-sky; and thofe who travel to yakutsky and kamtzat-sky, to the north-eaft, CHAPTER IV. Obfervations on yakutsky and kamtzatsky, &c. Journey continued to irkutsky, and occurrences there, &c. A T elimsky I met with general kanifer. He was adjutant general to charles xii. of Sweden, and much efleemed by that great warrior, for his military exploits. Kanifer was a native of courland. He was taken prifoner by the Russians in Poland, and fent hither; where he lived in cafe and folitude, and was regularly vifited by all travellers. This gentleman had a creature called kaberda, which Vol. I. G g was 234 A JOURNEY chap. iv. was brought to him when a fawn, by fome of the ton-I72Q* gusy. It is the animal from which the fweet-fmelling drug called musk is taken. The musk grows about the navel, in form of an excrefcence, which is cut off, and prefcrved, when the creature is killed. There are many of them in this country; but the musk is not fo ftrong fcentcd as that which comes from china, and more fouthern climates. The general had bred this creature to be very familiar. He fed it at his tabic with bread and roots. When dinner was over, it jumped on the table, and picked up the crumbs. It followed him about the ftreets like a dog. I muft con-fefs it was plcafing to fee it cut caprioles, and play With children like a kid. The kabcrda is a fize lefs than the ftllow-dcer, and its colour darker. It is of a pretty fhape, having erect horns, without branches; is very fwift, and haunts rocks and mountains, of difficult accefs to men or dogs; and, when hunted, jumps from cliff to cliff with incredible celerity, and firmnefs of foot. The fleflb is efteemed better venifon than any of the deer kind, of larger iize; whereof there is great variety in thefe parts. Before I leave eluisky, I fhall, as ufual, give a fhort account TO PEKIN. 235 account of fome of the places adjacent; particularly chap.iv. thofe to the north-eaff, towards the river lena, and l720, yakutsky, according as I have been informed by travellers, on whofe veracity I could entirely depend. The people who travel in winter, from hence to thefe places, generally do it in January, or February. Ic is a very long and difficult journey; and which none but tongusians, or fuch hardy people, have abilities to perform. The Russians frequently finifh it in fix weeks. The common method is as follows: After travelling a few days in fledges, when the road becomes impaffable by horfes, they fet themfelves on fnow-fhoes, and drag after them what is called a nart, containing provifions and other ncceffaries; which are as few and light as poflible. This nart is a kind of fledge, about five feet long, and ten inches broad, which a man may cafily draw upon the deepeft fnow. At night, they make a large fire, and lay themfelves down to flcep in thefe narrow fledges. As foon as they have refrefhed themfelves, they again proceed on their fnow-fhoes, as before. This manner of travelling continues about the fpace of ten days, when they come to a place where they procure dogs to draw both themfelves and their narts. The dogs are yoked by pairs; and are G e 2 more 236" A JOURNEY chap. iv. more or fewer in number, according to the weight they ^^1^^ have to draw. Being trained to the work, they go on with great fpirit, barking all the way; and the perfon, who lies in the fledge, holds a fmall cord to guide the dog that leads the reft. They are faftened to the fledge by a foft rope, which is tied about their middle, and paifes through between their hind legs. I have been furprifed to fee the weight that thefe creatures are able to draw; for travellers muft carry along with them provifions, both for themfelves and the dogs. Thefe watchful animals know the time of fetting out in the morning; and make a difmal howling, till they are fed and purfue their journey. This way of travelling would not, I believe, fuit every conftitution; the very fight of it fatisfied my curiofity. Thus, however, thefe people proceed for near three weeks, till they arrive at fome villages on the lena; where, leaving the dogs, they procure horfes, with which they travel to the town of yakutsky. This place has its name from a rivulet, called yakut, which empties it-fclf into the lena. I have been, perhaps, too particular in defcribing the method of travelling with fnow-fhoes and dogs; but, as thefe things are known to few Europeans, I con- T O P E K I N. 237 concluded an account of them would not be difasree- chap. iv. able. I have feen feveral Swedish officers who have I72°-travelled to yakutsky in this manner. I tried the fnow-fhoes myfelf, and found them very fatiguing; but time and practice make them ealy and familiar. There is a more agreeable road, from elimsky to yakutsky, than that I have mentioned, which is by water, down the river lena; but this rout will not a-gree with the time and circumft ances of every traveller. Thofe who travel from irkutsky, by this courfe, go, by land, to a place called vercholensky ostrogue, fituated near the fource of the lena, where they embark and fall down the ffream. Thofe who go from elimsky, crofs the country directly, about two days journey, to the firft convenient place upon the lena, where they procure veffels, and fail down the river to yakutsky, or any other place; but in this palfage, by water, they are peftered with numbers of large gnats and muskitoes, which leffen the pleafure of the voyage. Before I proceed to the northward, it will not be improper to give a fhort defcription of the famous river lena; which, for the length of its courfe, and quantity of water, may be compared to any of the iargeft rivers in the world. The 238 A JOURNEY chap.iv. The lena rifes at a fmall diflance northward from T the baykall lake, and runs to the north, with little variation, till it difcharges itfelf into the northern ocean. I compute the length of it, from the fource to the ocean, to be about two thoufand five hundred English miles, though it is much more by common report. It is navigable during this whole courfe, having no cataracts fo great as to prevent the paffage of vef-fels of confiderable burden. It receives many great rivers, moft of which come from the eaff. It may eafily be imagined, that the lena cannot fail of being ffored with various kinds of excellent fifh, when the other rivers in Siberia afford fuch plenty and variety. The banks are generally overgrown with tall thick woods; wherein are abundance of game, and wild beafts. The country, between its fource and the baykall lake, is well peopled, abounding with many russ villages, and corn-fields, along the banks of the river. Having formerly mentioned yakutsky and kamt-zatsky, I fhall add a few obfervations on thefe two provinces. The town of yakutsky, capital of the province of that name, is fituated on the weft bank of the river lena, and governed by a commandant; whofe office is reckon- TO PEKIN. 239 reckoned very lucrative, as many fables, and other va- chap. iv. luable furs, are found in that province. 1720. The winter here is very long, and the froft fo violent, that it is never out of the earth, in the month of June, beyond two feet and an half below the furface. When the inhabitants bury their dead above three feet deep, they are laid in frozen earth; for the heat of the fun never penetrates above two feet, or two feet and an half: fo that, I am informed, all the dead bodies remain in the earth, unconfirmed; and will do fo till the day of judgment. The town, and many villages in its neighbourhood, are inhabited by Russians; who have horfes and cows, but no fheep nor corn. They are plentifully fupplied with corn from the fouthern parts of the country, by water-carriage along the lena. And, in fummer, they make hay enough to feed their cattle in winter. The province of yakutsky is inhabited by a numerous tribe of tartars; by which name the Russians call the whole of the natives of this country, however they differ from one another in religion, language, and manners. Thofe of this province are named yakuty. They occupy a great fpace of territory round this place, 240 A JOURNEY chap. iv. place, efpecially to the eaft, where they border with ^7^^ the extenfive province of kamtzatsky. The yakuty differ little from the tongusians, either in their perfons or way of life. Their occupation, like that of the other natives, is fifhing and hunting. They have flattifh faces, little black eyes, and long black hair, plaited, and hanging down their backs. Many of the men are marked in the face with charcoal, after the manner of the tongusians. I have, however, feen many of thefe people, both men and women, of good complexions. They often fell their children to the Russians, who are very fond of them; as they generally make trufty fervants. Thefe people, though otherwife humane and tractable, have, among them, one very barbarous cuftom: When any of their people are infirm through age, or feized with diftempers reckoned incurable, they make a fmall hut for the patient, near fome river, in which they leave him, with fome provifions; and feldom, or never, return to vifit him. On fuch occafions, they have no regard to father or mother; but fay, they do them a good office in fending them to a better world. Whereby it appears, that, even thefe rude ignorant people have a notion of a future ftate. Under TO PEKIN. 241 Under kamtzatsky I include all that vafl tract of chap.iv. land, reaching from the river amoor, along the fhore I720; of the eastern, or Japanese ocean, called by the Russians tikoe more, or the calm sea, to the north-eaft point of the continent. The country, along the fhore, is very pleafant and healthy, efpecially to the fouth, where the climate is temperate. This part of the country produces grain, and, as I have been informed, even grapes, and other fruits. The inhabitants arc very humane and hofpitable. When the Russians firft entered this province, the kamtzedans endeavoured to oppofe them. For this purpofe they affembled great numbers of men, armed, after the faihion of their country, with bows, arrows, and fhort lances, headed with bone, fharpened at the point. Whence it appears, that thefe people knew no more the ufe of iron, than the Mexicans on the arrival of the Spaniards in America. Their multitudes were foon difperfed by a few Russians with fire-arms, which, in thofe days, had rifled barrels, and a fmall bore, which killed at a great diftance. The poor kamtzedans, feeing their people fall without any vi-fible wound, and aftoniihed with the fire and noife of the gun-powder, left the field in the utmoft confterna-Vol. L Hh fkotk 24* A JOURNEY chap.iv. tion. Their difpofitions now were wholly inclined to l^yJy^Jpeace; and a few of their chief men were fent to the Russians, in order to obtain it. They proftra-ted themfelves, in the moft fubmifhve manner, before the leader of the party, and begged of him to grant them peace; which he did, on condition of their paying to his Majefty an annual tribute of fables, or other furs. This condition they have punctually performed ever fincc. Many parts of kamtzatsky ate hilly and mountainous, particularly to the north, and covered with tall woods. At ochotsky is a good harbour, and timber enough to build a royal navy. There are many great and fmall rivers, that run through the country, and empty themfelves into the Eaftern Ocean, among which is a great river, called an ad err. To the north of this river, towards the ocean, lies an ex-tenfive tract of land, little known, and inhabited by a tierce and favage people, called, by the Russians, ana-oeertzy, who continue very untraceable. I have nothing further to add concerning thefe remote provinces;, only, I am perfuaded that the-iflands of japan can be at no great diftance from the fouth-$rn parts of kamtzatsky.. What coniirmed me iji this TO TP E K 1 1\. 243 this opinion is, that I faw at st. Petersburg a young chap.iv. man, a native of japan, who, I believe, is yet alive in I72°-the Academy of Sciences at that place. I asked him, by what accident he was brought fo far from his own country ; and he gave me the following account. That his father and himfelf, with a few perfons more, being at a noted town called naggisaky, on the weft coaft of the ifland, employed about fome affairs of trade, and having rmifhed their bufinefs, intended to return to their own habitations, on the north fhore, by failing round the coaft. Therefore went they on board a fmall boat, and begun their voyage homeward; but, meeting with a ftrong gale off the land, they were unfortunately driven out to fea; and, in a few days, were eaft upon the coaft of kamtzatsky, half-ftarved, and in the greateft diftrefs. In this condition they met with a Russian officer, who afforded them all that afi fiftance which common humanity dictates on fuch oc~ calions. Notwithstanding; all his care, feveral of the old people died; being quite fpent with fatigue, and want of victuals. That he and another youth, who was fince dead, were fent to st. Petersburg, where his Majefty was pleafed to order that they fhould be provided for in the Academy. This young man could H h 2 read ffuaees 244 A JOURNEY ghap.iv. read and write both the Japanese and Russian Iar> 1720. We fet out from e l i m s k y on the 1 2th; and next day, in the evening, came to a fmall village, upon the north bank of the river Angara, about eighty verft di-ftant from elimsk y. During thefe two days we faw no houfe, nor any inhabitants; the whole of the country, through which we paffed, being covered with tall and thick woods. There is a narrow road cut for fledges; and the trees on each fide, meeting at the top, fhade it by day ; and in the night make it very dark,, and almoft difmal. We paffed the night in this village, where we got frefh horfes; and, next morning, repeated our journey almoft due eaft, up the river Angara, upon the ice. Along the banks we found many villages well-peopled. The face of the country had now a different afpect, from what I had feen for feveral months; fometimes we faw a fine champaign country, exhibiting a beautiful and extenfive profpect; at other times, the view was agreeably varied with woods, and rifing grounds. The north-fide of the river is moflly over-grown with woods. There are fome openings along the banks; where TO PEKIN. 245 where we found villages, and abundance of cattle and chap. iv. provifions. 1720. The 15th, we arrived at a large village, called bal-lagansky; fituated on the fouth-fide of the Angara, near a rivulet, running from the fouth, called unga, The fituation of this place is very pleafant, as it ftands in a fruitful plain, and lias many corn-fields and woods in the neighbourhood. Here we found another tribe of the natives of Siberia, who differ, in fome particulars, from all thofe I have formerly defcribed. They are called by the rus-s 1 ans bratsky} but by themfelves buraty. They live in tents all the year; and, having large flocks of fheep, and many, cows and horfes, they remove from place to place, as the convenience of grazing requires. Their language has a great affinity to that of the Kalmucks; and they have priefts among them who can read and write that language; As to their drefs, and manner of life, I could obferve little difference between them and the Kalmucks on the volga; and therefore conclude they have both defccndcd from the fame original. Their faces, however, are not quite fo flat as thofe of the Kalmucks ; their nofes being fome-what higher, and their countenances more open. The 246 A JOURNEY chap. iv. The buraty are flout active men, but hate all kind ^7^^ of labour. For, though they have the example of the Russians plowing and fowing their ground, and living plentifully on the produce of this rich and fertile foil, they chufe ftill to live in their tents, and tend their flocks, on which their fubfiftence intirely depends. The chief exercife of the men is hunting and riding. They have a good breed of faddle-horfes; and their horned cattle are very large. Their fheep have broad tails, and their mutton is excellent. They have alfo great abundance of goats. For all thefe animals they make no provifion of fodder; but leave them to feed in the open fields. When the fnow falls to a great depth, which feldom happens in thefe parts, they drive them fouthward to rifing grounds, where little fnow lies. Their arms are bows and arrows, lances and fabres; all of which are ufed on horfe-back; for, like the Kalmucks, they have no infantry. They are dexterous archers, and skilful horfemen. Thefe people were formerly fubjecl: to a prince of the m on gals; but now live very quietly under the Russian government. They are at prefent a very numerous people, reaching towards the eaft and fouth of TO PEKIN. 247 of the baykall lake; and are generally reckoned very chap.iv. honeft and fincere. 1720. As to their drefs, the men wear a coat, or rather gown, of fheep-skins, girt about the middle, in all feafons; a fmall round cap, faced with fur, having a taffel of red lilk at the top; which, together wich a pair of drawers and boots, makes up the whole of their apparel. The women's drefs is nearly the fame; only their gowns are plaited about the waift, and hang down like a petticoat. The married women have their hair haneine in two locks, one on each fide of the head, drawn through two iron rings to prevent its floating on the breaft; and looking very like a tye-wig. Round their fore-head they wear a hoop of poliihed iron, made faft behind; and on their head a fmall round cap, faced with fur, and embroidered, in their falhion, to diftinoirifh it from thofe of the men. The maids are drclfed in the fame manner; only, their hair is all plaited, hanging in feparate locks round their head, and is as black as a raven; fome of them have good complexions. Both the men and women are courteous in their behaviour. I Ihould like them much better if they were a little more cleanly. Both their perfons and tents are extremely nafty, from their ufing. only skins 248 A JOURNEY chap. iv. skins to preferve them from the cold; on thefe they 1720. or jje^ rounc[ a little fire, in their tents. The religion of the buraty feems to be the fame with that of the Kalmucks, which is downright Paga-nifm of the groffeft kind. They talk indeed of an almighty and good being, who created all things, whom they call burchun; but feem bewildered, in obfcure and fabulous notions, concerning his nature and government. They have two high priefts, to whom they pay great refpecf.; one is called Delay-Lama, the other Kutuchtu. Of thefe priefts I ftiall have an opportunity to give fome account afterwards. In pafting the tents of the buraty, I often obferved a long pole; whereon was hung, by the horns, the head and skin of a (beep. On inquiring the reafon of this appearance, I was told that the animal, whole head and skin thefe were, had been (lain, and offered in fa-crilice, to the God who protected their flocks and herds. I could obferve no images among them, except fome relicks given them by their priefts, which they had from the Delay-Lama; thefe are commonly hung up in a corner of their tents, and fometimes about their necks, by way of an amulet, to preferve them from misfortunes. The TO PEKIN. 249 The 16th, we came to another large village, called chap.iv. kamenka, fituated on the north bank of the river,^J^Z^^j where we found many of the buraty in their tents. This day we had fome rain, which melted much fnow, and made it dangerous to travel upon the ice; fo that we were obliged to leave the river, and make the bell of our way along the banks; for feveral of our horfes broke through the ice, and were got up again with no fmall difficulty. The 17th, our route lay to the fouth-eaft. The alteration of the weather was now very perceptible; the heat of the fun was very intenfe, and the fnow fud-denly difappeared, leaving no marks of winter, except the ice upon the river, which was vanifhing very faff. Thus, in the fpace of a few days, we paffed from a cold winter to a warm fpring; and one would almoft have imagined we had been imperceptibly dropped into another climate. Our fledges, in which we had travelled and lodged, for moft part, during the winter, could now be of no ufe; and we left them to be put on wheel carriages, in order to follow us as mould be convenient. Having procured fuch horfes and furniture as the place afforded, we proceeded along the north bank of Vol. I. I i the 250 A JOURNEY chap.iv. the Angara, towards irkutsky. We were efcorted ^7^°^by fome cossacks, and a party of the buraty, armed with bows and arrows. We hunted all the way as we travelled; and were not a little furprifed to fee the buraty kill many, hares with their arrows. This exer-cife was very feafonable, as we had been confined to Hedges for more than three months, during our journey from cazan to this place. On the 18 th of March, we arrived at the town of irkutsky, fo called from the rivulet irkut, which falls into the Angara near it. It (lands on the north bank of the Angara, in a large plain, to the north of which the grounds are very high, and covered with woods. On the fouth fide of the river, towards the baykall lake, are high hills, rifing to the fouth, and covered with tall trees; among which are many larin-xes and Siberian cedars. The larinx, called in russ lifvinitza, is a well known tree in thefe parts; near the root of it grows a famous drug, called agarick, in form of a mufhroom. It fheds its leaf in autumn, and in fummer it looks like a pine; it grows very ffraight and tall, and is reckoned good timber for jhip-building; it bears a cone like the fir-tree, containing the feed, but not half fo large. What. TO PEKIN. tf\ What is called the cedar is a large tall tree, which chap.iv. never ftiades the leaf; it is white and fmooth, but has ^^^j not the lealf fmell of cedar. They ufe it chiefly in building houfes; and it makes the fined white floors, and free ft from knots, of any wood I know. The leaves are like thofe of a pine; but grow in taffels-, very beautiful. The cones are large; and, inftead of feed like the fir, contain a fmall nut with a kernel; of which the people in this country are very fond, and eat it by way of a defert, in place of better fruit. It has a pleafant tafte, like that of raifins; and is e-ftecmed good for the ftomach. The town of irkutsky is fortified with a ditch> and ftrong palifades, having towers at certain diftan-ces. The garrifon confifts of fome regular troops, befides a number of coffacks, or the militia of the country. The town contains about two thoufand houfes; and the inhabitants are plentifully fupplied with provifions of all kinds, from the neighbouring villages. The adjacent woods abound with variety of game. The river affords fturgeon, and many other kinds of fifh, but no fterlet; becaufe, as I apprehend, they delight in muddy ftreams; and the water at this I i 2 place 252 A JOURNEY chap.rv. place is fo clear, that, in two fathoms depth, one may: JT^^fefi the pebbles at the bottom. At irkutsky is a good market for furs of all forts, and likewife for many kinds of Chinese goods. AH merchandife mult be entered at the cuff om-houfe, in this place, and pays a duty of ten per cent; which produces a confiderable revenue to his majefty. The 25th of March, our baggage arrived, after fur-mounting many difficulties on the road. They had been obliged to leave many of the fledges, after taking the baggage off them, and putting it on wheel- carnages. Our defign was to have crofted the baykall fea upon the ice, and then proceeded, by land, to the town of selinginsky; but we came too late for that purpofe. The feafon was fo far advanced, that, before our carriages arrived, the river was almoft free of ice. We were informed, indeed, that the ice, upon the lake, was fuflicicntly ftrong to bear horfes; but, upon confidering the matter, it was thought moft ad-vifeable to remain here, till the ice in the fea was alfo melted, that we might go by water to selinginsky5. and orders were immediately given that veffels fhould be prepared for this purpofe. TO PEKIN. 253 April 1 ft, we crofted the river, accompanied by Mr. chap. iv. rakitin the commandant, in order to take a view of l72°* the country towards the fouth. We rode through fine woods, of ftately oaks and other trees, formerly mentioned. We hunted all the way, and found a-bundance of game. At laft, we came to a fmall Russian village, in a fruitful valley, encompalTed with hills covered with woods, where we lodged. Next day we went ten or a dozen miles farther, in fearch of wild beafts; but, finding none, we returned to the fame village, and the day following to irkutsky. The 10th, we were entertained with a famous bu-ratsky ftiaman, who was alfo a lama, or prieft, and was brought from a great diftance. As thefe fhamans make a great noife in this part of the world, and are believed, by the ignorant vulgar, to be infplred, I fhall give fome account of the behaviour of this one, in particular, by which it will appear that the whole is, an impofition. He was introduced to the ambaffador by the commandant, accompanied by feveral chiefs of his own tribe, who treat him with great refpect.. He was a man of about thirty years of age, of a grave afpec't and deportment. At his introduction he had a cup of brandy 254 A JOURNEY chap. iv. brandy prefcnted to him, which he drank, but refufed I720' any more. After fome converfation, he was defired to exhibit fome fpecimen of his art; but he replied, he could do nothing in a Russian houfe; becaufe there were fome images of faints, which prevented his fuccefs. The performance was therefore adjourned to a buratsky tent in the fuburbs. Accordingly, in the evening, we went to the place appointed, where we found the fha-man, with feveral of his companions, round a little lire, fmoking tobacco; but no women among them. We placed ourfelves on one fide of the tent, leaving the other for him and his countrymen. After fitting about half an hour, the fhaman placed himfelf crofs-legged upon the floor, clofe by a few burning coals upon the hearth, with his face towards his companions; then he took two flicks, about four feet long each, one in each hand, and began to fing a difmal tune, beating time with the flicks; all his followers joined in the chorus. During this part of the performance, he turned and diflorted his body into many different poftures, till, at laft, he wrought himfelf up to fuch a degree of fury that he foamed at the mouth, and his eyes looked red and flaring. He now flarted up TO PEKIN. 255 up on his legs, and fell a dancing, like one diffracted, chap.iv. till he trode out the fire with his bare feet. Thefe I72°-unnatural motions were, by the vulgar, attributed to the operations of a divinity; and, in truth, one would almoff have imagined him poffefTed by fome demon. After being quite fpent with dancing, he retired to the door of the tent, and gave three dreadful fhrieks, by which, his companions faid, he called the demon to direct him in anfwering fuch queflions as mould be propofed. He then returned, and fat down in great compofure, telling he was ready to refolve any quefli-on that might be asked. Several of our people put queflions in abundance; all which he anfwercd readily, but in fuch ambiguous terms that nothing could be made of them. He now performed feveral legerdemain tricks; fuch as flabbing himfelf with a knife, and bringing it up at his mouth, running himfelf through with a fword, and many others too trifling to mention. In fhort, nothing is more evident than that thefe fhamans are a parcel of jugglers, who impofe on, the ignorant and credulous vulgar, The 6th of April, we went to a monaflcry, about five miles to the weflward of this place, where we dined with die archbiihop of tobolsky. This prelate had 256 A JOURNEY chap. iv. had lately come hither to vifit fome monafteries; and, I72°t in his way, had baptized a number of osteaks and other heathens. From this time till the 8th of May, little material happened. We waited patiently for the dilfolving of the ice on the baykall lake, of which we expected to receive the moft certain knowledge by means of the floating-ice on the Angara; for, when this happens, that river is filled with floating-cakes, which arc driven along with great fury by the wind and current. The 11 th, the river was now clear of ice. Our baggage was fhipped on board large flat-bottomed boats, and drawn up the ftream; the wind being fouth-erly made the progrefs of the boats very flow. The ambaflador therefore refolved to remain at this place, till he heard they had nearly reached the lake, which is about forty verft from irkutsky. Before we left this place, Mr. kremensky, our interpreter for the latin tongue, died of a hectick dif-order. He was a polish gentleman, and had laboured under this diftemper for fome years. CHAP. TO PEKIN. 257 chap. v. CHAPTER V. Jv-NJ From irkutsky, crofs the lake baykall, to selinginsky; fome account of the kutuchtu, <&t. rJpHE 15th of May, the weather being very hot, we did not fet out till after dinner, when we left irkutsky, accompanied by the commandant and fome other officers of the place. We rode along the north bank of the river, through pleafant woods, and fome open fields, till we came, about midnight, to a few fifher-mcn's huts, where we halted for a few hours, and repeated our journey early next morning. At noon, we arrived at a fmall chapel, dedicated to st. nicolas, where travellers ufually pay their devotions, and pray for a profperous paffage over the lake. About this religious houfe there are a few fimermen's huts. Two monks conftantly attend, to put people in mind of their duty, and receive a fmall gratuity from the paffengers. Here we found our boats, waiting for us, below the falls of the Angara, From hence you can fee the lake, burfting out betwixt two high rocks, and tumbling down over huge ftones, that ly quite crofs the river, Vol. I. Kk which 258 A JOURNEY chap. v. which I reckon to be about an English mile broad; 1720. rpne whole channel of the river is Covered with thefe t~/~V'"Nk"J rocks, from the mouth of the lake down to the chapel of st. nicolas, about the diftance of an English mile. There is no paflage for the fmallelf boats, except along the eaft more, through a narrow ftrait, between the rocks and the land. In the moft Ihallow places there is about five or fix feet water, and breadth, all the way, fufficient for any lingle vefTel. But if, by ftrefs of weather, or any other accident, a boat fhould have the misfortune to mifs this opening, and be thrown upon the rocks, (he muft immediately be dafh-ed to pieces, and the whole crew inevitably perifti. The waters, daibing upon the ft ones, make a noife like the roaring of the fea; fo that people near them can fcarce hear one another fpeak. I cannot exprefs the awfulncfs with which one is ft ruck, at the fight of fuch aftoniihing fcenes of nature as appear round this place, and which, I believe, are not to be equalled in the known world. The pilots and failors, who navigate the lake, fpeak of it with much reverence; calling it the Holy Sea, and the mountains about it, the Holy Mountains; and are highly difpleafed with any perfon,, who fpeaks of it with difiefpccl, or. calls it a lake. They tell / TO PEKIN. 251 tell a ftory of a certain pilot, who always gave it that chap. v. appellation, but was feverely punifbed for his con- I72°-tempt. Being on a voyage in autumn, he and his crew were tolled from fide to fide of the lake, till they were half-flawed, and in great danger of perifhing. Neceffity, at laft, forced this hardy mariner to comply with the prevailing cuftom, and pray to the Holy Sea and Mountains to have compaftion on him in fuch di-ftrefs. His prayers were effectual, and he arrived fafe to land; but was obferved, ever after, to fpeak of the fea with the grcateft refpect. The afternoon was fpent in adjufting the tackle, and preparing the barques for being drawn up the ftrong narrow current. The 17th, the wind being contrary, and blowing pretty frefh, the pilots would not venture out. I, and three more of our company, took this opportunity of walking up to the top of the mountains, where we had a full view of the fea, and the land to the fouth, on the other fide of it, and alfo to the weft as far as it extends. The land on the fouth fide of the lake rifes gradually, till it terminates in hills moftly covered with wood; but, on the weftern fhore, there are very high mountains, feveral whereof are overfpread with deep K k 2 fnow, ^6o A JOURNEY chap. v. fnow, which we could eafdy difcern, though at a grear. Jvxj diflance' The baykall fea, oppofite to the mouth of the se- linga, is reckoned about fifty English miles broad, though it is much broader in fome other places; and about three hundred miles in length. It is wholly frefh water, and is fupplied by the seeing a and many other rivers, from the fouth, and by the higher Angara from the eaff. The courfe of the fea is from fouth-weft to north-eaft, and has very few fhelvcs or rocks. There is only one large ifland, near the middle of it, called olchon. It is bounded on the north by a rido-e of high rocks, which run from one end of it. to the o* ther. The only opening, by which it difcharges itfelf, is that into the Angara; which, though it is a natural paffage, appears as if cut through the rocks by art. In my opinion, one cannot imagine a more beautiful pro-fpcet of nature, than is feen from the top of thefe mountains; which may eafily be perceived from the fhort and imperfect, sketch I have drawn of it. The woods, on the fummit of the rocks, are fhort, and thinly fcattered; but, on their declivity towards the north, and in the valleys, the trees become gradually both taller and larger. There is abundance of game and TO PEKIN. 261 and wild beafts in thefe woods, particularly the wild chap,v. boar, which was the firft of that fpecies we found in ll20* this country; a certain fign of a temperate climate; for thefe animals cannot endure the exceftive cold in more northerly parts. The hunting of thefe animals being a dangerous kind of fport, we carefully avoided their haunts. In the evening we returned to our barques at the chapel of st. nicolas. The baikalt is abundantly furnifhed with various kinds of excellent fifh % particularly fturgeon, and a fifh called omully, in fhape and tafte refembling a herring, but broader and larger. The fea produ- „ ces alfo great numbers of feals, whole skins are prefer-ed, in quality, to thofe of feals caught in fait-water. I am of opinion, that both the feals and fifh in the baykall came originally from the northern ocean,, as the communication between them is open, though: the diftance be very great. The feals are generally caught, in winter, by ftrong-nets hung under the ice. The method they ufe, is, to* cut many holes in the ice, at certain diftances from; one another, fo that the fifhermen can, with long poles,, ftretch their nets from one hole to another, and thust continue them to any diftance. The feals, not being= able. 262 A JOURNEY chap. v. able to bear long confinement under the ice for want ^7^^of air, feek thefe holes for relief; and thus entangle themfelves in the nets. Thefe creatures indeed commonly make many holes for themfelves, at the fettlng in of the froft. In this manner they catch not only feals, but fifh of ail kinds, in winter. The 1 8th, the wind being favourable, we put off from st. nicolas's. As we had workmen enough, we left part of them on board to affift the pilot, by fetting poles; while the reft were employed on fhore, in towing the barques againft a ftrong current. In about the fpace of three hours we got clear of the current, and all hands came on board. We were now quite becalmed, and obliged to take to our oars. We rowed along fhore to the eaftward, till about noon; when we had an eafy breeze, which foon carried us two-thirds over the fea, under our main-fail. The wind now chopped about to the eaft, and blew fo frefh, that we could not make the river selinga; which was the port where we intended to land. As thefe barques cannot turn to windward, we were drove about ten miles to the weft ward of the possollsky monaft ery; which ftands about fix miles to the weftward of the selinga, in a pleafant and fruitful plain, furnifbing an extenfive view TO PEKIN. 26; view in all directions; where, endeavouring to get to chap. v. land at any rate, we fleered into a bay, in which, we I720-fancied, we faw the more covered with cockle-mells or" white fand. 'On a nearer approach our mi (take appeared. For what feemed iheils or fand, at a ditrance, was only great and fmall cakes of ice, beating with the waves againff the main body of the ice; which lay firm, and covered the whole bay. Our people, on di-flinguilhing the ice, immediately if ruck fail, and were in no fmall confufion. But Mr. ismaeloff ordered the fail to be again fet, and to fleer directly for the ice. In the mean time, all hands were employed in hanging boards about the bow of the veffel, to prevent the cutting of the planks ; and in fetting poles to puih off the large cakes. At laft we came among the ice, which made a terrible rattling at firft; but the farther we advanced, the eafier our barque lay, till we came to the main body of the ice, where fhe remained as unmoved, as if lhe had been in a mill-pond, though it flill continued to blow hard. We now quitted the fhip, and walked about upon the ice, which was yet ftrong enough to carry horfes. By this time the fum was fet, which prevented our defign of going afhore;: for die diitance was, at lcafl, five English miles; and there. 264 A JOURNEY chap.v. there was a great gap in the ice near the place where l720' we lay. About midnight the wind turned wefterly; and at break of day we left our ftation, and failed to the eaftward j and, about noon, entered the river selinga; where we found our other three barques. They, having been two or three miles before us the preceeding night, had time enough to reach anchoring-ground; and, by this means, efcaped the ice, fo little expected at this feafon of the year. We ourfelves, before entering the bay, had founded, in order to difcover whether we could come to an anchor; but no bottom could be found, though we joined feveral lead-lines together, amounting to above one hundred and fifty fathoms. The mouth of the selinga is furrounded with tall reeds, and contains feveral iflands. The entry into it is very difficult, except the wind be fair, becaufe of many flats and fand-banks, thrown up by the current of the river. Here we found great flocks of all kinds of water-fowl, particularly fnipes. The wind continuing fair, we failed up the river to a fmall oratory, dedicated alfo to st. nicolas, where all hands went aihore to return thanks for their fafe paffage. TO PEKIN. 265 paffage. The prior of the possolsky monaftery came chap. v. to this place to falute the ambaiTador; and brought a^Z^^j prefent of fifh, and fuch other provifions as thefe religious houfes afford. In the evening we proceeded up the river, till night overtook us, when we hauled our boats clofe to the bank, and lay till next morning, which was the 20th of May. This day being calm, the barques were towed up the river; and we walked along the banks, hunting all the way in a very pleafant country. At night we lay by, as formerly. The 21 ft, the weather was very hot. We continued our voyage in the fame manner as before. The 2 2d, the wind being fair, we hoifted fails, and, in the evening, arrived at a large village, well built and peopled, called kabbansky ostrogue. This place is pleafantly fituated, on a rifing ground upon the weft bank of the river, furrounded with many corn-fields and much pafturage. Here we took new hands on board our barques, and difmiffed the former to return in open boats to irkutsky. The 25th, we reached another large village, called bolshoy zaimka, fituated in a fertile country. In the neighbourhood is a fmall monaftery, and many leffer Vol. L L 1 villa- 266 A JOURNEY chap. v. villages. Many of the buraty were encamped, with ^I^^j their flocks and herds, on both fides of the river. The climate on this fide of the baykall lake is much more temperate than on the north fide. The land produces rich crops of wheat, rye, barley, oats, buck-wheat, and peafe; befides kitchen roots, and o-ther garden fluff. The inhabitants have not yet begun to plant any kind of fruit-trees; which, I am per-fuaded, would thrive exceedingly; as the winters are fhort, and the fnow does not ly above fix weeks or two months. The banks of the river appeared very pleafant; being finely varied with plains and woods. The 26th, we came to a large town, called udin-sky, from the rivulet uda, which runs into the selinga, on the eaft bank. This place alfo (lands in a fertile plain, having high hills covered with woods towards the eaft. In thefe hills are found feveral rich ores, particularly of lead; in digging which many hands are now employed. The miners fay it is of too hard a quality; however, they have extracted confiderable quantities of filver from it; and I have been informed that they alfo found fome veins of filver ore. As thefe works are but lately begun, it is- not doubted that they are capable TO PEKIN. 267 capable of great improvement, at an eafy charge, as chap. v. the metal lies fo near the furface. Samples of thefe 172Qm ores have been fent to st. Petersburg; and, I am informed, his majefty has engaged fome german miners to make experiments upon them. Both here and on the Angara, iron is to be found, in great abundance, at the very furface. But, as the dillance is too great for exportation, it is not worth the labour. To fupply the common confumption of the country, the fmith takes his bellows, goes to the mine, and fmclts and works as much iron as he needs. I have feen fome of this iron of an excellent, foft, and pliable quality. Befides the above mentioned, there are at this place very rich mines of copper. I have feen fome of the ore with large veins of pure copper running through it. I make no doubt but time and future difcoveries will bring thefe mines to perfection, to the great emolument of the Russian empire. All this country is under the jurifdiction of the commandant of irkutsky, who fends deputies to all the towns of this extenfive province, to adminiffer juftice, and take care of his majefty's revenues. The power of nominating fub-governors and commandants, L 1 2 is 268 A JOURNEY chap.v. is veiled, by his majefty, in the governor of Siberia* l^t?' which gives him an authority equal to a fovereign prince. The ambaffador, finding the progrefs of the boats, againft the dream, very flow and tedious; being befides much peflered with gnats and muskitoes; refolv-ed to go by land, the reft of the way, to selincinsky, For which purpofe, the fuperintendant of this place ordered horfes, and a proper efcort, to be got ready againft next morning, on the other fide of the river; the road on this fide being interrupted by thick woods and deep rivers. The 27th, having fent off our barques, we croffed the river; and, having no baggage, we foon mounted. The road lay through a fine plain, covered with excellent grafs. In the evening we came to a fountain of pure water, where we lodged in the tents of the buraty, and flept on bull-hides. The 28th, early, we proceeded, travelling over fome pretty high hills overgrown with wood. About noon we came to a river called, oroncoy, which we croffed. en a tall camel; it being too deep for horfes. At this place we found a.number of the buraty encamped> with their flocks grazing in the neighbourhood. Our TO PEKIN. 2ck Our horfes having fwom the river, we went into chap. v. one of the buratsky tents, till they were dried. The 172°-hofpitable landlady immediately fet her kettle on the fire, to make us fome tea; the extraordinary cookery of which I cannot omit defcribing. After placing a large iron-kettle over the fire, fhe took care to wipe it very clean with a horfe's tail, that hung in a corner of the tent for that purpofe; then the water was put into it, and, foon after, fome coarfe bohea tea, which is got from china, and a little fait. When near boil-ing, fhe took a large brafs-ladle and toffed the tea, till the liquor turned very brown. It was now taken off the fire, and, after fubfiding a little, was poured clear into another veffel. The kettle being wiped clean with the horfes tail, as before, was again fet upon the fire. The miff refs now prepared a parte, of meal and frefh butter, that hung in a skin near the horfe's tail, which was put into the tea-kettle and fried. Upon this parte the tea was again poured; to which was added fome good thick cream, taken out of a* clean fheep's skin, which hung upon a peg among the. other things. The ladle was again employed, for the fpace of fix minutes, when the tea, being removed from, the fire, was allowed to ft and a while in order; 270 A JOURNEY chap.v. der to cool. The landlady now took fome wooden I720- cups, which held about half a pint each, and ferved her tea to all the company. The principal advantage of this tea is, that it both fatisfies hunger and quenches third. I thought it not difagreeable; but mould have liked it much better had it been prepared in a manner a little more cleanly. Our bountiful hoftefs, however, gave us a hearty welcome; and, as thefe people know not the ufe of money, there was nothing to pay for our entertainment. We only made her a prefent of a little tobacco to fmoke, of which thefe people are very fond. I have given this receipt with a view that fome European ladies may improve upon it. After this fhort repair, we mounted again; and, in the evening, came to a neat Russian village, on the front of a pleafant hill covered with wood. This place is furrounded with extenfive valleys, and fine paffurage; and our accommodation was better than the preceed-ing night. Here we met Mr. firsoff, colonel of the coffacks, or militia of selinginsky, with a fquadron of horfe, armed with bows and arrows, and fome firelocks, who came to efcort the ambaffador to that place. The 20 th of May, we mounted early, and, by means of TO F E K I N. 271 of our coflacks, hunted and ranged the woods, as we chap. v. went along, in the manner of this country, called oh- I720, lave in the Russian language. Their method is to form a femicircle of horfemen, armed with bows and arrows, in order to indole the game. ' Within the femicircle a few young men are placed, who give notice when the game is fprung; thefe only are permitted to purfuc, the others being confined to keep their ranks. Our coflacks, with their arrows, killed three deer, and feveral hares. And, if killing harmlefs animals can be called diverfion, this may properly be reckoned one of the fineft. After this faibion they hunt bears, wolves, foxes, and wild boars. About noon we came to a village on the selinga, where we halted a few hours, and then croffed the river in boats; which was near a mile broad at this place. Our coflacks, however, fought no boats, except one to tranfport their arms, cloaths, and faddles; which being done, all of them mounted their horfes, and plunged into the river without the leaft concern. As foon as the horfes were fet a fwimming, for eafe to them the men difmounted, and, laying hold of the mane with one hand, guided them gently by the bridle with the other. This is the common method in this court- 272 A JOURNEY chap. v. country of tranfporting men and horfes; which I look ^J^^upon to be both fafe and eafy, provided the horfe is managed with a gentle hand, without checking him with fudden jerks of the bridle. We halted a little, after crofting the river, till the horfes were dried; after which we mounted, and, in the evening, arrived at the town of selinginsky; where we intended to wait for our barques, and the reft of our people. Selinginsky is fituated on the eaft bank of the noble river selinga, in a deep, barren, fandy foil, that produces almoft nothing. The choice of this fituation was extremely injudicious; for, had the founders gone but half a mile further down, to the place where now the inhabitants have their gardens, they would have had a fituation, in every refpecT:, preferable to the prefent. This place confifts of about two hundred houfes, and two churches, which are all of them built with wood. It is defended by a fortification of ftrong pa-lifadcs, on which are mounted fome cannon. About a mile eaftward of the town is a ridge of high hills, quite covered with wood. On the other fide of the river, the country is open, dry, and fome-what barren; but affords excellent pafture, particularly for TO PEKIN. 273 for fheep, whereof the buraty, the inhabitants, have chap. v. large flocks. They are of that kind which hath broad 1720-tails, and their mutton is very good. Thefe people have, befides, a large fort of horned cattle, and abundance of horfes and camels, wherein all their riches conflft. Here ends the tribe of the buraty, and the nacion of the mongalls beoins. The mongalls are a numerous people, and occupy a large extent of country, from this place to the kall-gan, which fignifies the Everlafting Wall, or the great wall of china. From this wall they ffretch themfelves northward as far as the river amoor; and from the amoor, weffward, to the baykall fea; where they border with the territories of the Kontayfha, or prince of the black Kalmucks. On the fouth, they are bounded by a nation called ton guts, among whom the Del ay-Lama has his refidence. One may cafily imagine, from the vaft track of land which the mongalls occupy, that they muff be very numerous; efpecially, when it is confidered, that they live in a healthy climate, and have been engaged in no wars, fince they were conquered, partly by the Russians on the weft, and partly by the Chinese on the eaft; to whom all thefe people are now tributaries. In former times the Vol. I. Mm mon- A JOURNEY chap.v. mongalls were troublefome neighbours to the cm-I72°* nese, againft whofe incurfions the great wall was built. Kamhi, the prefent Emperor of china, was the firft who fubclued thefe hardy tartars; which he effected more by kind ufage and humanity than by his fword;, . for thefe people are great lovers of liberty. The fame gentle treatment hath been obferved by the Russians, towards thofe of them who are their fubjecrs. And they themfelves confefs, that, under the protection of thefe two mighty Emperors, they enjoy more liberty, and live more at cafe, than they formerly did under their own princes. % The prefent Prince of mongalia is called TuhV du-Chan, and refides about fix days journey, to the tbuth-eaft, from selinginsky. The place is called. urga, and is near to where the Kutuchtu. or hieh prieft, inhabits. When the mongalls fubmitted themfelves to the Emperor of china, it was agreed,, that the Tulhdu-Chan mould ftill maintain the name and authority of a prince over his people; but undertake no war, nor expedition, without confent of the Emperor; which has ftrictly been obferved ever fince. It is very remarkable, that, in all the vaft dominions , . of TO PEKIN. 275 of mongalia, there is not fo much as a finale houfe chap. v. to be feen. All the people, even the prince and high J^Z^V, priell, live conflantly in tents; and remove, with their cattle, from place to place, as conveniency requires. Thefe people do not trouble themfelves with ploughing, or digging the ground in any fafhion; but are content with the produce of their flocks. Satisfied with neceffaries, without aiming at fuperfluities, they purfue the moft ancient and fimple manner of life; which, I mud confers, I think very plcafant in fuch a mild and dry climate. From the river volga, to the wall of china, there are three great tartar princes; the Ayuka-Chan, the Kontayfha, and the Tuflvdu-Chan. Thefe three mighty nations have almoft the fame features, religion, and language; and live in the fame manner. It will eafily be perceived, by cafting an eye on the map, what an extent of territory thefe princes poffefs, whofe fub-jects go by the general name of kalmuks. Few languages can carry a traveller over a greater extent of country than that of the kalmuks. With the Arabic* indeed, a perfon may travel, through many places of the eaft, from Egypt to the court of the Great Mogul; but, with the il lyric, he can travel much further M m 2 than 276 A JOURNEY chap. v. than with cither of the former; viz. from the gulf of l72°* venice to the outmoft boundaries of kamtzatsky; for the Russian is a dialect, of the illyric. The grcatcft part of mongalia is one continued waife; except the places along the amoor, and towards the Russian borders on the weft. The foil alfo, to the fouth, from selinginsky, is exceedingly line; and capable, by proper culture, of producing grain of feveral forts. Since I have mentioned the amoor, I prefume this will be no improper place to give fome account of that river. It is called by the tartars shaggalyn-oulla, or the black dr\gon, I fuppofc from the colour of its waters, and the windings of its courfe. It is formed of two large rivers, whofe fources are. in the defert, far to the eaftward of this place. One is called ar gu n, which iffues from a lake named delay; the other is. 1 n g o d a, on the north bank of which ftands the famous Russian town nertzinsky. The conflux of thefe rivers produces the amoor, which runs towards the eaft, augmenting daily by means of the many great and fmall ftreams it receives, till it becomes one of the largeft rivers in this part of the word; and, after a long courfe, difcharges itfelf into the-eastern or Chinese TO PEKIN. 27; nese ocean. It is remarkable, that, from cazan to chap.v. thefe parts, the amoor is the only river that runs eaft- 172°-ward. Moft, if not all, of the great rivers in Siberia have their courfes to the north, and north-weft. Our barques arrived at selinginsky on the 4th of June. After we had taken out of them what neceifa-ries we wanted, they were difpatchcd with the reft of the baggage, for the greater fecurity, to his Majefty s ftore-houfes at strealka, about four miles up the river, where the caravan for china then lay. In the mean time, the ambaffador writ a letter to the Allegada, or prime minifter, at the imperial court of pekin, to notify his arrival; and defire his excellency would give orders for his reception on the borders. This letter was fent to the prince of mongalia, to be by him forwarded to court; for no ft rangers are allowed to travel through his territories to china, without his pcrmiftion. The officer, who carried the letter to the prince, was treated with great civility; and his letter immediately fent to court by an exprefs. A few days after, the prince fent two gentlemen, one of whom was a lama„ to congratulate the ambaflador on his arrival in thefe parts. They were invited to dine with the ambaffador, and behaved very decently, The A JOURNEY The fame officer, who carried the ambaffadors letter to the prince of mongalia at urga, was ordered to prefent his compliments to the Kutuchtu, or high prieft, who is a near relation of the prince. He received the officer in a very friendly manner, defircd him to fit down in his prefence; an honour granted to very few, except ambaffadors, and pilgrims from remote countries; and, at his departure, gave him a prefent of fome inconfiderable things; particularly, a few pieces of Chinese filks. I cannot leave this venerable perfonage, without taking fome notice of him. I mall therefore relate a few things concerning him, among thoufands more ridiculous, which the people in this country tell and believe. This extraordinary man affumes to himfelf the character of omnifcience, which is the interpretation of the word Kutuchtu; and the people are taught to believe that he really knows all things, paft, prefent, and future. As his intelligence, by means of his lamas is very extenfive, he is cafily able to impofe on the vulgar in this particular. They alfo believe that he is immortal; not that his body lives always; but that his foul, upon the decay of an old one, immediately tranfmigrates into TO PEKIN. 275 into fome young human body; which, by certain marks, chap. v. the lamas difcover to be animated by the foul of the l720' Kutuchtu, and he is accordingly treated as high prieft. When the fpirit of the Kutuchtu has taken poffef-fion of a new body, that is, in plain English, when he is dead, the lamas are immediately employed to difcover in what part of the world this wonderful perfon is regenerated, or born again, as they exprefs it. They need, however, go to no great diftance to find him; for, the affair being previoufly concerted among -the chief lamas, they foon determine the choice of a fuc-ceffor; who generally happens to be a young boy, that has been well inftrucfed how to behave on that oc-cafion. -When a fucceffor is pretended to be found, a company of lamas are fent to examine the matter, who carry along with them many toys, fuch as fmall filver bells, and things of that nature, which belonged to the former Kutuchtu, intermixed with others that did not. All thefe are laid before the child, who picks out fuch things as belonged to his predeceffor, and dif-covers the grcateft fondnefs for them; but rejects, with difguft, whatever is not genuine. Befides this trial, fome queflions are put to him, relative to wars, or remarkable events, in his former flate; all which arc anfwered 2&0 A JOURNEY chap. v. anfwered to the fatisfaclion of the conclave. Where- Kutuchtu, is conducted with great pomp and ceremony to urga, and lodged in the tent of the high prieft. Till the new Kutuchtu arrives at a certain age, he is entirely under the government of the lamas; and few are permitted to fee him, except at a great diftance, and even then it is not eafy to get accefs to him. It may feem furprifing, that, in fo numerous an alTembly of lamas, no intrigues fhould be carried on, nor difputes arife, among the electors. All is conducted without noife or contention. It is however imagined, that the authority of the prince greatly contributes to their unanimity. The mongalls relate, that their Kutuchtu has now lived fourteen generations, and renews his age e-very moon; for, at the new moon, he appears like a youth; when fhe is full, like a full-grown man; but, when near the change, he is an old man with grey hairs. What they call the urga is the court, or the place where the prince and high prieft refide; who are always encamped at no great diftance from one another. They have feveral thoufand tents about them, which he is unanimoufly declared to be the felf-fame are TO PEKIN. 281 arc removed from time to time. The urga is much chap. v. frequented by merchants, from china, and Russia, and^^,^ other places; where all trade is carried on by barter, without money of any kind. The Chinese bring hither ingots of gold, damasks, and other filk and cotton (turfs, tea, and fome porcelain; which are generally of an inferior quality, and proper for fuch a market. The Russian commodities are chiefly furs of all forts. Rhubarb is the principal article which is exchanged for thefe goods, great quantities whereof are produced in this country, without any culture. The mon-galls gather and dry it in autumn; and bring it to this market, where it is bought up, at an eafy rate, both by the Russian and Chinese merchants. The Kutuchtu and his lamas are all clothed in yellow, and no layman is allowed to wear this colour, except the Prince. This mark of diftinction makes them known and refpected every where. They alfo wear about their necks a (Iring of beads, which are ufed in faying their prayers. The mongalls believe in, and worfhip, one Almighty Creator of all things. They hold that the Kutuchtu is god's vicegerent on earth; and that there will be a ftate of future rewards and punifhments. Vol. I. Nn The 282 A JOURNEY chap. v. The following relation, which I had from a Russian {Jr^^J merchanc> co whom the thing happened", will (bow the methods taken by thefe lamas, to maintain the dignity and character of their mighty high-prieft. This merchant had gone to the urga, with an intention to trade with the Chinese. While he was at this place, fome pieces of damask were ilollen out of his tent, tie made a complaint to fome of the lamas, with whom he was acquainted; and the matter was foon brought before the Kutuchtu, who immediately ordered proper fteps to be taken with a view to find out the thief. The affair was conducted in this uncommon manner; one of the lamas took a bench with four feet, which feems to have been of the conjuring kind; after turning it, feveral times, in different directions, at lafl it pointed directly to the tent where the flollen goods lay concealed. The lama now mounted aflride on the bench, and foon carried it, or, as was commonly believed, it carried him to the very tent; where he ordered the damask to be produced. The demand was directly complied with; for it is in vain, in fuch cafes, to offer any excufe. I fhall now fubjoin a few observations on the Delay-Lama, or prieft of the defert, who is reckoned ftill, fupe- TO P E K I N. 2S> fuperior to the Kutuchtu. He lives about a months chap.v, journey to the fouth-eaft of this place, among a peo-pie called the ton guts, who ufe a different language from the Kalmucks. I am informed that the religion of the ton guts is the fame with that of the mongalls: that they hold the fame opinions with refpect to the tranfmigration of the Delay-Lama, as the mongalls do about the Kutuchtu, and that he is elected in the fame manner. What appears moft furprifing is, that thefe two mighty Lamas keep a good correfpondence, and never encroach on one another's priviledges. The word delay fignifies either the fea, or a great plain, fuch as this prieft inhabits. CHAPTER VI. Occurrences at selinginsky; Several parties of hunting; and journey continued to saratzyn, the boundary betuueen the Russian and Chinese territories. rFHE tonguts are-a feparate people, governed by a Prince whom they call Lazin-Chan. One of their princes was lately killed, in an engagement with the Kontayfha, king of the black Kalmucks. The Delay-Lama himfelf narrowly efcaped being taken pri- N n 2 foner 284 A JOURNEY chap. vi. foner, notwithftanding all his forefight. The Lama ^7^^threatened the Kontayfha with many difafters, as the confequences of fuch proceedings. The Kontayfha, however, regarded them very little, till he had attained his ends; after which, he generoufly reinlfated both the Prince and the Delay-Lama in their former dignity. The Kontayfha is of the fame profeffion with the Delay-Lama, and acknowledges his authority in religious matters. I am informed there is a third Lama, called Bogdu-Pantzin, of ftill greater authority than either of the former. But, as he lives at a great diftance, near the frontiers of the Great Mogul, he is little known in thefe parts. Though I am unwilling to throw the leaft reflection on anv fociety of men inftituted for the promotion of religion and virtue, from all I can collect concerning thefe Lamas, they are little better than fhamans of fuperior dignity. The anfwer to the letter, which the ambaflador had written to pekin, was not yet arrived. In the mean time we were obliged to remain at selinginsky, where we entertained ourfelves in the beft manner we could. June the 12th, walking along the bank of the river, I was TO PEKIN. 285 I was a little furprifed at the figure and drefs of a man chap. vi. {landing among a number of boys who were angling for fmall fifties. The perfon bought all the fifties alive, and immediately let them go again into the river, which he did very gently one by one. The boys were very civil to him, though they looked upon him as diffracted on account of his behaviour. During this ceremony he took little notice of me, though I fpoke to him feveral times. I foon perceived, by his drefs, and the ftreak of faffron on his fore-head, that he was one of the Brachmans from india. After fetting all the fifh a-fwimming, he feemed much pleafed; and, having learned a little of the Russian language, and a fmattering of the Portuguese, began to converfe with me. I carried him to my lodgings, and offered to entertain him with a dram; but he would tafle nothing; for he faid, it was againft the rules of his religion to eat or drink with ftrangers. I asked him the reafon why he bought the fifh to let them go again. He told me, that, perhaps the fouls of fome of his deceafed friends, or relations, had taken poffefRon of thefe fifties; and, upon that fuppofition, it was his duty to relieve them: that, according to their 286 A JOURNEY chap. vi. their law, no animal whatever ought to be killed or l720, eaten; and they always lived on vegetables. After this interview, we became fo familiar that he came every day to vifit me. He was a chearful man, about feventy years of age. He had a bum of hair growing on his fore-head, very much matted, and, at leaft, fix feet in length; when it hung loofe, it trailed upon the ground behind him; but he commonly wore it wrapped about his head, in form of a turban. The hair was not all his own; but collected as relicks of his friends, and others of his profeftion, reputed faints; all which he had intermixed, and matted, with his natural hair. Perfons of this character are called Faquers, and efleemed facred every where. He told me he was a native of indostan, and had often been at madrass, which he called chinpatan, and faid it belonged to the English. This circum-flance, added to feveral others, made me believe he was no impoftor, but an innocent kind of creature, as are moft of that feet. He came to this country, in company with fome others of his countrymen, on a pilgrimage, in order to pay their devotions to the Kutuchtu and Delay-Lama. They had been twelve months on their journey, and had travelled all the way on TO PEKIN. 287 on foot, over many high mountains and wade deferts, chap. vi. where they were obliged to carry their provifions, and ^Z^^ even water, on their backs. I (bowed him a map of Asia, whereon he pointed out the courfe of his journey; but found many errors in the geography; and no wonder; (ince few Europeans would have had the re-folution to undertake fuch a journey as this man had done. The 14th, a chief named Tayfha, of thofe mongalls who are fubjects of his majefty, came to pay his refpe&s to the ambaiTador, who gave him a friendly reception, and kept him to dinner. He was a merry old man, near fourfcore, but fo vigorous, that he could mount a horfe, with as much agility as many young men. He was accompanied with iive fons, and many attendants, who treated him with equal refpect as a king; and even his fons would not (it down in his pre-fence, till he defired them. I confefs it gave me great pleafurc to fee the decency with which they behaved. One of our company, a pretty fat man, asked the Tay-iha what he ftiould do in order to be as lean as he was. The old man replied in thefe few words, ' Eat lefs, 1 and work more:' a faying worthy of Hippocrates himfelf. In his youth he. had been engaged in many battles.. 288 A JOURNEY chap. vi. battles with the Chinese, whom he held in great con-^T2^ tempt. As he was a keen fportfman, the ambaiTador made an appointment with him for a grand hunting match. After which he and his retinue returned to their tents. The 15th, we dined at strealka with the commif-fary, Mr. stepnikoff, of the caravan going to china. Strealka is fituated, as I formerly obferved, about three or four miles up the river from selinginsky, in a fruitful plain of a triangular figure, formed by the conflux of two fine rivers; the strealka running from the eaft, and the selinga from the fouth. This would have been the ftrongeft and moft beautiful fituation, of any in this province, for the town of selinginsky. I am informed that the founders had a view to this delightful place; but the choice was determined a-gainft them by fuperftitious lots, to which it was referred. This method of chufing fituations by lot, has hurt many noble cities, and rendered the work of ages ineffectual to remedy the error. The fame evening we returned, by water, to selinginsky; and, next day, went a hunting to the weft of the selinga. We had about two hundred coffacks along with us, who followed the common method of rang- TO P E K I N. 2% ranging the woods, mentioned above, i We killed fix chap.vi. roe-bucks, and many hares. In the evening, we pitch-ed our tents about a fountain, and feafted on venifom The 16th, early, we left the woods to our right, and defcended into a barren plain, where we found great flocks of antelopes. Our people killed about twenty of them. Thefe animals avoid the woods, and frequent the open plains and deferts. They are exceedingly fwift and watchful. And fo far refemblc fheep, that, if one breaks through the circle, the whole flock follows, though an hundred horfemen were in the way; which proves the denruction of many of thefe creatures. The noife of the arrows, with which they are hunted, contributes much to their confufiom The heads of thefe arrows are broad, and fixed in a round bit of bone, with two holes in it; which make them whiffle as they fly through the air. At noon, we fet up our tents near a lake of brackifli water, called solonoy-osera, or the fait lake. Round the edges lies a thick fcurf of fait, as white as fnow, which the inhabitants gather for ufe. Here we found great flocks of water-fowl; fuch as, fwans, geefe, ducks. The weather being very hot, we remained till next day. Vol. I. O o The Hfe A JOURNEY chap.vt. The 17th, we hunted along the fame wafte plain-, 1720. dy^Jug our courfe to the fouth, towards the river selinga. This day alfo we had very good fport. In the afternoon, we pitched our tents near a fpring of frefh water, which is no fmall rarity in thefe parched defer ts; and is as much regarded here, as a good inn-would be in other parts of the world. I found, at this place, a prickly fhrub, about three feet high, with a beautiful fmooth bark as yellow as gold. • The 1 8th, in the morning, we had terrible flames* of lightning, accompanied with thunder, and heavy {bowers of hail and rain ; which determined us to-leave the plains, and return, by the ihortelf road, to selinginsky. Befides the game already mentioned^ we found many large buftards, which haunt the open-country. As it is a very large bird, and rifes flowly,. our liirht horfemen killed feveral of them with theh? arrows. The 2 who procured, from the mongalls encamped nearefl our road, what fheep we wanted. The camels were very tractable, and flooped to take on their loads. But the horfes were, at frrft, very unmanageable. Many of them had never before been employed for any ufe; and were faddled with great difficulty, but mounted with much more; for the very fmell of our cloaths, which they perceived to be different from that of the mongalls, their matters, made them fnort and fpring witb great gio A JOURNEY chap. vii. great fury. They were eafily managed, notwithftand-172°* ino; when we eot upon their backs. Our road, this day, lay through fine plains and val-lies, covered with rank grafs; but not a fingle tent was to be feen. I inquired why fuch a fine foil was without inhabitants; and was told, that the Chinese had forbid the mongalls to encamp fo near the Russian borders, for fear of being allured to pafs over to their territories, as many had formerly done. Thefe fruitful vallics are furrounded with pleafant hills, of eafy afcent, whofe fummits are covered with tufts of trees. Many of thefe tufcs, being of a circular figure, and having no under-wood, appear as if they had been planted and pruned by art; others are irregular; and, fometimes, a ridge of trees runs from one hill to another. Thefe objects afford a profpecr. fo pleafing to the eye, and fo feldom to be found, that one cannot help being charmed. And this pleafure is flill heightened by the gen tie-flowing rivulets; abounding with fifh, and plenty of game, in the vallies, and among the trees. The 23d, we fet out early, and came to a rivulet, called ira, running to the north-weft, till it falls into the orchon ; which we paffed, and pitched our tents on TO PEKIN. 311 on the other fide. The rank grafs, by accident, took chap. vn. fire; and, had not water been at hand to extinsruilh it, 172°-and the weather very calm, the confequences might have been fatal. We travelled farther this day than the former, as fewer inconveniencies arofe from the reftifnefs of the horfes. The 24th, we continued our journey towards the fouth-eaft, along fmooth roads, through a pleafant country; and, at evening, reached a rivulet called sha-ra, or the yellow rivulet, on the banks of which we fet up our tents. The vallies now were more contracted, and lefs wood upon the hills, than formerly. The 25th, we came to a rivulet called KARA, or the black rivulet, from the colour of the water, which is tinged by the richnefs. of the foil. The 26th, we proceeded. The country retained much the fame appearance, and the weather was very fine; but not a fingle inhabitant was yet to be feen. In the evening, I walked from our tents, with fome of our company, to the top of a neighbouring hill, where I found many plants of excellent rhubarb; and, by the help of a If ick, dug up as much of it as I wanted. On thefe hills are a great number of animals called marmots, of a browniib colour, having feet like a badger, 312 A JOURNEY chap. vii. badger; and nearly of the fame fize. They make 1720. jec Durrows on t[ie declivities of the hills; and. it is faid, that, in winter, they continue in thefe holes, for a certain time, even without food. At this feafon, however, they fit or ly near their burrows, keeping a ilrict watch; and, at the approach of danger, rear themfelves upon their hind-feet, giving a loud whiffle, like a man, to call in the ftragglers; and then drop into their holes in a moment. : I fhould not have mentioned an animal fo well known as the marmot, had it not been on account of the rhubarb. Wherever you fee ten or twenty plants growing, you are fure of finding feveral burrows under thefhadesof their broad fpreading.leaves. Perhaps they may fome times eat the leaves and roots of this plant. However, it is probable, the manure they leave about the roots, contributes not a little to its increafe; and their calling up the earth makes it fhoot out young buds, and multiply. This plant does not run, and fpread itfelf, like docks, and others of the fame fpecies; but grows in tufts, at uncertain diffances, as if the feeds had been dropped with defign. It appears that the mongalls never accounted it worth cultivating; but that the world is obliged to the marmots for the quantities feat- TO PEKIN. 313 fcattered, at random, in many parts of this country, chap, vil For whatever part of the ripe feed happens to be blown^7^^ among the thick grafs, can very feldom reach the ground, but muft there wither and die; whereas, mould it fall among the loofe earth, thrown up by the marmots, it immediately takes root, and produces a new plant. After digging and gathering the rhubarb, the mongalls cut the large roots into fmall pieces, in order to make them dry more readily. In the middle of every piece they fcoop a hole, through which a cord is drawn, in order to fufpend them in any convenient place. They hang them, for moil part, about their tents, and fometimes on the horns of their fheep. This is a moft pernicious cuftom, as it deftroys fome of the beft part of the root; for all about the hole is rotten and ufelefs; whereas, were people rightly in-formed how to dig and dry this plant, there would not be one pound of refufe in an hundred; which would fave a great deal of trouble and expence, that much diminiih the profits on this commodity. At prefent, the dealers in this article think thefe improv-ments not worthy of their attention, as their gains are more confiderable on this than on any other branch Vol. I. Rr of jl-4 A JOURNEY chap, vil of trade. Perhaps the government may hereafter think ^l^j *c ProPcr to make fome regulations with regard to this matter. I have been more particular in defcribing the growth and management of the rhubarb; becaufe I never met with an author, or perfon, who could give a fatisfac-tory account where, or how, it grows. I am perfuad-cd, that, in fuch a dry climate as this, it might eafily be fo cultivated as to produce any quantity that could be wanted. I omit any computation of the diffances of places,, along this road, as the whole of it, from the borders • to pekin, has been meafured by a wheel, or machine, given to the caravan, by the governor of Siberia, for that purpofe. I mall afterwards fubjoin the exact distances taken from this meafurement. . The 27th, and 28th, we purfued the fame road,, over hills and through vallies. For, though few travel this way, the caravans, with their heayy carriages, leave fuch marks as are not foon effaced. It is only of late that the caravans travelled this road. Formerly they went farther to the north, by a Russian town called nertzinsky, and thence to a Chinese city called naun. That road is more convenient than the prefent T O P E KIN. 315 prefent, as it lies through places better inhabited; but chap. vn. the prefent is fhorter, and therefore taken by moft travellers. The 29th, we reached a river called buroy, where we lodged. At this dry feafon ail thefe rivers are ford-able; and they abound with fturgeon, and other fifh. Next morning, Mr. venant, our chief cook, dropped down, as he was coming out of his tent, and immediately expired, notwithftanding all poffible care was taken for his recovery. We interred him as decently as time and circumftances would admit; and proceeded to a river called bor-gualty, where we pitched our tents for this night. October iff, after a long day's journey, we reached a rivulet called koyra. The face of the country appeared nearly the fame as formerly. The 2d, after another long march, we came to the banks of the river tola, the largeft we had feen fince we left the selinga. Next day, we croffed the tola at a pretty deep ford, where the river was in breadth about the flight of an arrow at point blank. It was noon before our camels got over, and too late to proceed. We were therefore obliged to fet up our tents on the eaft bank Rr 2 of A JOURNEY .of the river, which was overgrown with tall oziers. Here our conductor furnifhed us with frefh horfes and camels. From the borders to this place, our fta-ges were regulated by brooks and rivers; for the con-vcniency of getting water. And, for the fame reafon, as there are no rivers nor brooks, from hence to the wall of china, fountains and fprings will be our only ffagcs. On the banks of the tola we found many mongalls encamped, with numerous flocks of cattle, being the firft inhabitants we had feen fince our leaving the border. The Russians, and the mongalls who are fubjecTs of russia, claim all the country weffward from the tola; which, they fay, is the natural boundary between the two empires. This would indeed be a confiderable addition to the dominions of russia. But, as both thefe mighty monarchs are abundantly provided with a vaft extent of territory, neither party think it worth while to difpute about a few hundred miles of property, which, obtained, would perhaps not balance the colt, or contribute but little to the advantage of either. The appearance of the country was now greatly altered to the worfe. We faw no more pleafant hills and TO PEKIN. 317 and woods; neither could I find one fingle plant ofcHAP.vn. rhubarb. The foil was dry and barren; and the grafs I72°-not to be compared to what we had already paffed over. The 4th, after every man had drunk his fill of the pure and wholefome water of tola, and filled his bottle with it, we departed with fome regret, as we could hope for no more rivers, or brooks, till we came to the wall of china. We foon entered the defert commonly named, by the mongalls, the hungry desert. How far it deferves that title, will be feen as we advance. In the evening, we reached fome pits, called tola* tologoy, of brackifh water, where we pitched our tents. The road ftill pointed to the fouth-eaft, with little variation, over grounds that rofe a little at firft, but afterwards gradually declined. We faw many mongalian tents, and cattle, difperfed along the defert. The 5th, we fet out again, and, in the evening came to fome fountains, called chelo-tologoy, of pretty frefh water. The country was quite level, and appeared to the eye as plain as the fea. The foil was 318 A JOURNEY chap.vii. dry, barren, and gravelly; and neither tree nor bufli to ^^^be feen; a profpect not very agreeable. The 6th, early in the morning, we proceeded eaftward, through the fame fort of flat country. The weather was very fine, and the roads excellent. In the N evening, we arrived at a pool, called tylack, of brack-ifh water, where we remained the following night. This day we faw feveral large flocks of antelopes, and fome mongalls in their tents; which was no difagreeable object in this continued plain. We paffed few of thefe tents without vifiting them, where we always found an hofpitable reception, and were entertained with fome zaturan, a kind of tea which I formerly defcribed. And, if we happened to ftay till our baggage was gone out of fight, the landlord conducted us, by the fhorteft way, to the fprings that terminated the next ftage. The next day, we came to the wells called gachun. Our bisket being now fpent, we were reduced to live on mutton only, during the reft of our journey through this defert; which we accounted no great hardfbip, as it was extremely fine. It is not a little furprifing, that, notwithftanding the barren appearance of this unfhel-tered plain, the cattle are in good condition, but particularly TO PEKIN, 310 ticularly the fheep. The fhort grafs, though in many chap. vii. places thinly fcattered, muft be of a very nouriibing 172°' quality. This will naturally proceed from the climate, and the foil, which every where partakes of a nitrous quality, as plainly appears from the fcurf of fait round ' the edges of the lakes and ponds, and the talte of the water, generally brackifh in the fprings and pits. The 8 th, our conductor furnifhed us with a frefh fet of cattle, which detained us latter than our ufual time of fetting out. This day, the foil was very much inclined to gravel, containing a number of red and yellow pebbles, many of which, being tranfparent, made a fine appearance while the fun fhone. We were informed there were fometimes ffones of value found here; which fo much excited our curiofity, that each of us, every day, picked up a confiderable quantity. On examination, molt of them were thrown away, as altogether ufelefs; the few we thought proper to retain were wrought into very good feals. A man might gather a bufhel of fuch ffones every day in this defert. One of our people, a Grecian by birth, who under-llood fomething of the nature of ftones, found one that he called a yellow fapphire, and valued it at fifty crowns. Perhaps thefe pebbles might be of that kind which J20 A JOURNEY chap.vn. which the lapidaries call cornelian; for they are fuffi- ^T^^ciently hard, and take a fine polilfi. The 9th, we fet out early, and travelled to a pool named oko-toulcu. This day, a lama from the Kutuchtu, going to pekin, joined our company, who, by . his habit and equipage, feemed to be a perfon of emi: nence. In marching along the tedious defert, the con-verfation turned on a terrible earthquake which happened, during the month of July laft, in china, between the long wall and pekin j and had laid in ruins feveral villages, and walled towns, and buried many people in their ruins. The lama inquired what was the opinion of the learned men in Europe concerning the caufe of this phaenomenon. We told him, it was commonly reckoned to be fubterraneous fire; and then asked, in our turn, to what caufe fuch extraordinary appearances were imputed by his countrymen? He replied, that fome of their learned lamas had written, that god, after he had formed the earth, placed it on a golden frog; and, whenever this prodigious frog had occafion to fcratch its head, or ftretch out its foot, that part of the earth, immediately above, was ftiaken. There was no reafoning on a notion fo fantaftical; we therefore left the lama to pleafe himfelf with his hy- pothefis TO PEKIN. 321 pothefis, and turned the difcourfe to fome other fub- chap.vil ' I720. Ject- The 1 oth, we came to the fprings called korpartu. The appearances of things this day were almoft the fame as on the preceding days. The foil appeared fo barren, that none of the common methods of improvement could make it bear any kind of grain, or even alter its prefent condition. The difpofitions of its inhabitants, the mongalls, feem wonderfully fuited to their fituation; as they appear more contented with their condition than thofe who poffefs the moit fruitful coun tries. . In the evening of the 11 th, we arrived at khododu ; where we found the water clear, and pretty frem, burning, in a ftrong fpring, from the gravelly earth, and running, in a ilrcam, to a confiderable diftance, till it lofes itfelf in the fand. This was the firft running water we had feen fince we left the tola. And we were as happy, while fitting round this fountain, and broiling our mutton chops, as others at a table plentifully furniftied with burgundy and champaign. Our appetities were, indeed, very keen; to which daily exercife, the coldnefs of the air, and drinking nothing but water, greatly contributed. Vol. I. S s Next 322 A JOURNEY chap. vn. Next morning, being the 12th, there was a little l72°- froft upon the ground. Several flocks of gray plovers came to drink at the fpring; of which our people killed as many as our prefent circumftances required. Thefe poor harmlefs birds feemed infenfible of danger; and, perhaps, they had never before heard the report of a gun; for no fooner was the piece fired, than they took a fhort flight round the fountain, whittling as they flew, and immediately alighted to drink again. The plover is a pretty bird, and pleafant to eat; and the foles of its feet are as hard as fo much horn, which prevent its being hurt by the ffones or gravel. In the evening, we came to the wells called bouk-hor-l 1 k k, without any thing material happening, or any difference on the face of the country. The 13th, wc continued our journey to the wells of buduruy; where we were again furnifhed with frefb horfes and camels. The 14th, we came to a place, called kadan-kachu, where we were obliged to dig a pit, four feet deep, in order to procure water; which was very bad, having both a difagreeable fmell, and bitter tafte; but was drinkable, when boiled with fome tea. We could, however, get none for our cattle, as the high wind filled the TO PEKIN. 323 the pits with fand as fait as we could dig them. This chap, vil fand is of a whitifh colour, and fo hVht and dry, that it 172°' is driven, by the winds, into your face and eyes; and becomes very difagreeable. Moft of our people, indeed, were provided with a piece of net-work, made of horfe-hair, which covered their eyes; and is very ufeful in drifts, either of fand or fnow. The 15 th, we travelled over deep fands; and, in the evening, arrived at other fprings called tzagan-teggerick. The wind continuing high, it was with much difficulty we fet up our tents. It is to be obferved, that, on thefe deep and light fands, our European tents are of little ufe, as there is no earth in which the tent-pins can be fattened. The tartar tents are much preferable ; for, their figure being round and taper, like a bee-hive, the wind takes but little hold of them; and they ftand, equally well, on a fandy, or on any other furface. They are, befides, warmer, more eafily erected, taken down, and tranf-ported. The 16th, we left the deep fand, and travelled a-long the fame fort of dry gravelly ground as formerly. In the evening, we pitched our tents at the fprings called sadjin. The variety of objects, in this dreary S s 2 wafte, J24 A JOURNEY chap. vi. waflc, arc fo few, that, in this, as well as in other re-fpects, it much refembles the fea. Here one can fee no farther than if he was placed on the furface of the water, out of fight of land; the rounding of the globe, in both cafes, being the fame. Sometimes, in the morning, I have been agreeably furprized in fancying I faw, at a fmall diftance, a fine river, having rows of trees growing upon it banks; but this was only a deception of the fight, proceeding from the vapouis magnifying fome fcattered fhrubs into great trees. The i yth, we came to fome wells of very bad water, called oudf.y, where we found frefh horfes and camels waiting for us. Our conductor refolved to lofe no time, being apprehenfive that we might be overtaken in the defert by the froft and deep fnow, which ufually happen at this feafon. Such an event would have retarded our march, and incommoded us not a little in many refpects. We therefore travelled as long ftages as the convenience of water, and the ftrength of our cattle would permit. The 18th, after a long day's journey, wc came to the wells called ulan-ic a la. We found, almoft every day, mongalls in their tents, which flood like fo many hives, difperfed through this fblitary plain. The TO PEKIN. 325 The 19th, we mounted again, and travelled to thecriAP.vir. fprings named tzil an-teggerick. This day we faw I72°* feveral flocks of antelopes ; and, indeed, few days paffed in which we did not fee fome of thefe animals. The 20th, we came to a place called ourandabu. The weather (fill continued fair, the sky clear, and the mornings frofty. The water, at this place, was tolerable ; but we were obliged to dig for it. When it happened that we had a long ftage from one fpring to another, for fear of coming too late, we ufually fent a couple of men before us, in order to gather fewel, and 10 dig pits, that the water might have time to fettle before our arrival. The 2 1 ft, we proceeded; and, in the evening, arrived at a lake of fait water. After digging, however, we found fome frefher. Were it not that thefe lakes and-pits are fcattered through this defert, it mull have been altogether uninhabited, either by man or beaft. This conflderation, among many others, has often led me to admire the infinite wifdom of almighty God, im the difpenfations of his providence, for the fupport of all his creatures. In my opinion, thefe fprings are produced by the. rains and melted fnow in the fpring ; for the watery • . fink-. A JOURNEY vii. finking in the fand, is thereby prevented from being °* exhaled, in fummer, by the heat of the fun; which muft be very fcorching in this defert, in which there is not the leaft fhade to be found. The 2 2d, we quitted the fait lake, in a cold frofty morning, and a ftrong northerly wind; which was very difagreeable. At evening we reached the wells of ku-lat. Thefe pits take their names from the quality of the water, as fait, four, fweet, bitter; or from the different tribes of people who inhabit the country in the neighbourhood. In the midft of our fatigues, we had the fatisfaction to be among a friendly people, who did every thing in their power to leffen our wants. Next day, we reached the wells of m in gat. The weather, though cold, was not unpleafant. And, the 24th, having got frefh horfes and camels, we came, in the evening, to a pond of brackilh water, called k o-runteer, upon the extremity of a difmal bank of fand, running a-crofs our road. The day following, we entered on the fand-bank, along a narrow and crooked paffage between two hillocks. Every one prayed for calm weather while we travelled over the fand; which put me in mind of being at TO PEKIN. 327 at fea. We continued our journey, through deep chap.vii. fand, till about noon; when, all our horfes and camels I720* being tired, we halted in a hollow place; where we dag, and found very bad water. We remained here till next morning. Our cattle being a little refrelhed, though they had been very indifferently fed among the fand, where nothing was to be feen but fome tufts of withered grafs, we fet out again. Along this bank there is not the leaft tract, or path of any kind; for the fmalleft blaft of wind immediately effaces it, and renders all the furface fmooth. We had gone but a few miles when moft of our people-were obliged to alight, and walk on foot, the horfes being quite tired with the deepnefs of the find; which made our progrefs extremely flow. The weather, fortunately, was ftill very calm. About noon, we pitched our tents in a hollow place, encompafled with high hillocks of fand. 1 obferved, that, in the open defert we had already paffed, the profpect was much confined; but here it was quite ftraitencd; for, if you afcended one of thefe mounts, you could fee-nothing but mount riling above mount, like fo many fugar-loaves, or rather like fomany cupolas. In 328 A JOURNEY chap.vil In the evening it began to blow a little at north-I72°* eaft, which drove about the light fand like fnow; but, about midnight, the wind rofe to fuch an height, that all our tents were overfet at once, and our beds filled with fand. As it was near morning, we thought it not worth while to pitch them again. We therefore prepared ourfelves to fet out at the dawn, in hopes of getting over the fand-bank before night; which, by riding and walking by turns, in order to haften our progrefs, we happily effected. And, in the evening, reached the fprings of kochatu. At the place where we paffed the fand, it was not above twenty English miles in breadth, which took us up three days. We could have travelled four times that diftance on the plain, with more eafe both to ourfelves and cattle. I am informed this bank of ftmd runs a great way fouth ward; and, in fome places, is above thirty leagues broad. They, whofe bufinefs calls them often to crofs the fands, have thin leather coats, made on purpofe, and round pieces of glafs tied before their eyes. This fand-bank appears like the waves of the fea; for the hillocks, fome of which are about twenty feet of perpendicular height, are of fo light a nature, that the wind TO PEKIN. 329 •wind carries them from place to place; levelling one, chap. vn. and forming another. And hence it is eafy to con\y^-\^ ceive, that, a weary traveller, lying down on the lee-fide of one of thefe hillocks, might, in a few hours, be buried in the land; which is reported to have often happened in this and other fandy deferts. The 28 th, we proceeded along the plain to the fprings called chabertu. I cannot but take notice of the uncommon manner the people here have of killing their fheep. They make a flit with a knife between two ribs, through which they put their hand, and fqueeze the heart till the creature expire; by this method all the blood remains in the carcafs. When the fheep is dead, and hungry people cannot wait till the fleih is regularly dreffed, they generally cut out the bisket and rump, wool and all, an 1 broil them on the coals; then fcrape off the finged wool, and eat them. This I have found, by experience, to be no difagreeable morfel, even without any kind of fauce. The next day, we travelled another ftage to the wells of s a m 1 n s a ; where we found better water than ufual. The length and thicknefs of the grafs fhowed that the foil now began to mend. This day there fell fome fnow, and the wind was cold and northerly. Vol. I. T t The 330 A JOURNEY chap, vil The 30th, we got frefh horfes, and proceeded to ^7^^ the fprings of krema. From the appearance of the grafs one would conclude, that the foil, at this place, was very fine. We few great numbers of horfes, belonging to the Emperor, turned out to graze. Not-withilanding all the hafte we had hitherto made, we were, this day, overtaken by a fall of fnow, which proved very inconvenient; not fo much on account of the cold, but it covered all fewel, fo that we could find none to drefs our victuals. The 3 1 ft, we came to a place called naringkarus-su, where, to our great fatisfaction, we found a fmall brook of frefh water, and fome mongallan huts. I obferved, that, from the fand-bank caff ward, the foil becomes gradually better every day. This was now the fortieth day, fince we left the border; during which time we had not halted one day, nor feen a fingle houfe; and the twentieth and eight, from the time we quitted the river tola, and entered the defert, in which we had neither feen river, tree, bufh, nor mountain. Though we were obliged now and then to fetch a compafs, on account of the watering places, yet, in general, our courfe deviated but little from the fouth-eaft point.. The TO P E K I N. 331 The ift of November, we halted at this place, that chap.vii. we might have time to put things in order before we^/X^-N^, paffed the long wall, which was now at no great di-ifance. Next day we proceeded, and about noon we could perceive the famous wall, running along the tops of the mountains, towards the north-eaft. One of our people cried out land, as if we had been all this while at fea. It was now, as nearly as I can compute, about forty English miles from us, and appeared white at this diftance. We could not, this night, reach the paffage through the mountains; and, therefore, pitched our tents in the open plain as ufual. We now began to feel the effects of the cold; for the fnow, continuing to ly upon the defert, proved very inconvenient on many accounts; but particularly by retarding the progrefs of our heavy and cumberfome baggage. But we comforted ourfelves with the hopes of foon feeing an end of all our toils, and arriving in a rich and inhabited country; for, though all of our people were in good health, they began to be very weary of the defert; and no wonder, as many of them had lain in the open field ever fince we left selinginsky. November 3d, after travelling about an hour, we T t 2 paffed 332 A JOURNEY chap. vii. pafTed the veftiges of a camp, which feemed to have ^J^^been regularly defigned. I was informed that the Emperor encamped here, when he led his troops againft the mongalls, called, by the miiTionaries in china, the ave stern tartars. The nearer we came to the mountains, we were the more furprifed at the fight of the fo much celebrated wall of china, commonly called, for its length, the endlefs wall. The appearance of it, running from one high rock to another, with fquare towers at certain intervals, even at this diftance, is moft magnificent. About noon, we quitted the plain, and entered an opening between two mountains. To the left, the mountains are very high. On the right, they decline as far as they are within view; but, 1 am told, they rife again to a great height. We defcended by a narrow path, about eight feet broad, between the mountains, till we came to a fmall Chinese monaftery, fituated on the declivity of a fteep rock. Curiofity led us to vifit this folitary place. But, the road being impaftable to horfes, we alighted and walked thither. On our arriving near the place, the monks came out to meet us, with the ufual friendly falutation of the country; which is performed by laying TO PEKIN. 333 ing one of their hands on the other, and then making chap. vir. them, and pronouncing thefe words Cho-loy-cho. The I72°-compliment being returned, they conducted us into the apartments of their little chapel, and treated us with a dim of green tea; which was very agreeable. In the chapel was a fort of altar-piece, on which were placed feveral fmall brafs images; and, in one of the corners, I obferved a fack filled with wheat. The habit of the monks, was a long gown with wide fleeves. On their heads was a fmall cap, and their long lank hair hung down over their moulders. They had very few hairs in their beards. This being the firft cm-nese houfe we met with, I have, on that account, been more particular in defcribing it. Every thing now appeared to us as if we had arrived in another world. We felt, efpecially, a fenfible alteration in the weather; for, inftead of the cold bleak wind in the defert, we had here a warm and pleafant air. We again proceeded along the narrow path; but of breadth fudlcient for a wheel-carriage. The road being fteep, and in many places rugged, we walked down the hill; and, in half an hour, came to the foot of it, where we found ourfelves furrounded, on all (ides, by high rocky mountains. Our route now lay along the fouth 334 A JOURNEY chap. vii. fouth fide of a rivulet, full of great flones, which had ^7^*^ fallen from the rocks in rainy weather. In the cliffs of the rocks you fee little fcattered cottages, with fpots of cultivated ground, much refembling thofe roman-tick figures of landskips which are painted on the cHiNA-ware and other manufactures of this country. Thefe are accounted fanciful by moil Europeans, but are really natural. After we had travelled about feven or eight miles, along the bank of the brook, we came, in the evening, to a Chinese village, at the foot of a high mountain, where we lodged in clean rooms with warm fires of charcoal. There were no chimneys in the rooms; but, inilead of thefe, the charcoal was put into a portable grate of brafs or iron, and allowed to burn clear in the open air; after which it was brought into thempartinent. Though the defert is one continued plain, it lies much higher than the plains and villages of china; for, when we entered the defile, the afcent was very inconfider-able when compared with the defcent on the other fide. Here we began to tafle of the fine fruits of china; for, foon after our arrival in the village, our conductor fent a prefent to the ambaffador of fome baskets of TO PEKIN. of fruits; confifting of water-melons, musk-melons, fweet and bitter oranges, peaches, apples, wall-nuts, chefs nuts, and feveral other forts which I never faw before; together with a jar of chikese arrack, provifions of feveral forts, and fome Chinese bread, called bobon, made of wheaten flour, and baked over a pot with the fleam of boiling-water. It is very light, and not difagreeable in tafle; at leaft it feemed fo to us, who had feen no bread for a month before. Next day, we halted to refrefti ourfelves after our long fatigue. I took this opportunity to walk up to the top of the mountain, in order to view the adjacent country; but could only fee a continuation of the chain of mountains, rifing one above another, and, to the northward, fome glimpfes of the long wall, as it runs along them. The 5th, we proceeded eaftward, down the fouth bank of a river, whofe channel was covered with great ffones. The road is cut out of the rock, for a confiderable length, at thofe places where there is no natural paffage between the rocks and the river; which muft have been a work of great labour. This river cannot fail to be a complete torrent in time of great rains. Having 336 A JOURNEY chap.vii. Having travelled about fix or eight miles, we ar-1720, rjvecj at tjie famous wall of china. We entered at a great gate, which is fhut every night, and always guarded by a thoufand men, under the command of two officers of diftinction, one a Chinese, and the o-ther a mantzur tartar; for, it is an eftabliihed cuf-tom in china, and has prevailed ever fince the con-quelf of the tartars, that, in. all places of publick trulf, there muft be a Chinese and a tartar invefted with equal power. This rule is obferved both in civil and military affairs. The Chinese pretend, that, two in an office are a fort of fpies upon one another's actions, and thereby many fraudulent practices are either prevented or detected. CHAPTER VIII. From the wall of china to pekin; Our entry into that city. S foon as we had entered the gate, thefe two officers, and many fubalterns, came to compliment the ambaffador on his fafe arrival; and asked the favour of him to walk into the guard-room and drink a diih of tea. We accordingly difmounted, and went into TO PEKIN. 337 into a fpacious hall on the fouth fide of the gate. This chap.viii. apartment was very clean, having benches all around;^7^^ and is kept on purpofe for the reception of perfons of diftinction. We were entertained with variety of fruits and confections, and feveral forts of tea. After (faying about half an hour, the ambaflador took leave of the gentlemen, and we proceeded on our journey. We travelled about four miles farther, and came to a confiderable town named kalgan. At fome diftance from the place, we were met by the commandant, and the Mandarin tulishin, who had paid'us a vifit at selinginsky. They accompanied the ambaffador to his lodgings; which were in houfes a-part from the reft of the town; and provifions were fent us in great plenty. From the wall to this place, the country, to the north, begins to open; and contains fome villages, corn-fields, and gardens. The fame evening, the ambaffador and the gentlemen of the retinue were invited to fup at the commandant's houfe; and horfes were fent to carry us thither. We alighted in the outer-court, where the commandant in perfon waited for us; and conducted us, through a neat inner-court, into a hall, in the Vol. I. U u middle 338 A JOURNEY chap.viii. middle of which flood a large brafs chaffing-difh, in 1720. fhape Gf an urn xvitH a {\vc 0f charcoal in it. The floor was covered with macs, and the room quite fet round with chairs, and little fquare japanned tables. The ambaflador fat at a table by himfelf, and the reft of the company at feparate tables, by two and two. We were firft entertained with tea, and a dram of hot arrack; after which fupper was brought, and placed on the tables, without either table-cloth, napkins, knives, or forks. In (lead of forks, were laid down, to every perfon, a couple of ivory-pins, with which the Chinese take up their meat. The difhes were fmall, and placed upon the table in the moft regular manner; the vacancies being filled with faucers, containing pickles and bitter herbs. The entertainment confiftcd of pork, mutton, fowls, and two roafted pigs. The carver fits upon the floor, and executes his office with great dexterity. He cuts the flefh into fuch fmall bits, as may cafily be taken up by the guefts, without further trouble. The meat being cut up, is given to the footmen, who fupply the empty difhes on the tables. The whole is ferved in cHiNA-ware; and neither gold nor filver is to be feen. AH the fervants perform their duty with the utmoft regularity, and without the leaft noife* TO PEKIN. 359 noife. I muft confefs, I was never better pleafed with chap.viii. any entertainment. 1720. The victuals being removed, the defert was placed on the tables in the fame order; and confifted of a variety of fruits and confections. In the mean time a band of mufick was called in, which confifted of ten or twelve performers, on various, but chiefly wind-inftruments, fo different from thofe of that clafs in Europe, that I fhall not pretend to defcribe them. The mufick was accompanied with dancing, which was very entertaining. The dancers were nearly as numerous as the muficians. Their performances were only a kind of gefticulation, confifting of many ridiculous pofturcs; for they feldom moved from the fame place. The evening being pretty far fpent, we took leave, and returned to our lodgings. The 6th, a great fill of fnow, and a cold frofty wind, obliged us to halt at this place. Next day, the froft and fnow ftill continued; not-withftanding, we fet out, and palled over a ft one-bridge, near this place, paved, not with fmall ftones, but, with large, fquare, free ftones, neatly joined. After travelling eaftward about thirty engl ish miles, we reach* ed a large and populous city called si an g-fu. We U u 2 were J4:s A JOURNEY chap.viii.were met, without the gate, by fome of the principal •720* inhabitants, and conducted to our lodgings. When we arrived, the governor was out a hunting with one of the Emperor's fons. As foon as he re* turned in the evening, he waited on the ambaiTador, and complimented him in a very polite manner ; ex-cufing himfelf for not waiting on him fooner. At the o fc> fame time, he gave his excellency a formal invitation to fupper; for it is appointed, by the court, that foreign ambaifadors ihould be magnificently entertained in all the towns through which they pafs. But the ambaffador, being fome what indifpofed, defired to be excufed. Our route, this day, was through a fine champaign country, well cultivated, but containing very few trees* We paffed feveral fmall towns, and many villages> well built, and inclofed.with walls. The roads were well made, and in good order; running always in flraight lines, where the ground will allow. I had heard a great deal of the order and oeconomy of thefe people; but found my information far fhort of what I: daily faw in. all their works and actions. The ftreets of every, village run in itraight lines. .Upon the road we. met with many turrets, called poiV TO PEKIN. 341 poft-houfes, erected at certain diftances from one ano-chap.viii. ther, with a flag-ftaff, on which is hoiftcd the impe- I72°* rial pendant. Thefe places are guarded by a few foldiers, who run a-foot, from one pod to another, with great fpeed; carrying letters or difpatches that concern the Emperor. The turrets are fo contrived, as to be in fight of one another; and, by fignals, they can convey intelligence of any remarkable event. By this means the court is informed, in the fpeedieft manner imaginable, of whatever dillurbancc may happen in the moft remote provinces of the empire. Thefe polls are alfo very ufeful, by keeping the country free from highwaymen; for mould a perfon efcape at one houfe, on a fignal being made, he would certainly be flopped at the next. The diftance of one poft-houfe from another is ufually five Chinese li, or miles; each li confiding of five hundred bow-lengths. I computer five of their miles to be about two and an half English.* The 8th, we halted at this place. As we could not be prefent at the entertainment, to which we were invited, laft night, by the governor, he had refolved that the delicacies, prepared on that occafion, fhould not be loft; and therefore fent into our court twelve tables, whereon were placed, by a number of people, all the victuals 342 A JOURNEY chap.viii.victuals that were drefled the preceding night, with 1720, tjie jefert an(j feveral fort6 0f tea. The whole was afterwards brought into the hall; and there placed, in form, upon the tables. When this was done, an officer of diftinction came to defire the ambaflador to tafte of his Imperial Majefty s bounty. We accordingly fat down at the tables in great order. Every thing was very good, but moftly cold; having been carried through the ftreets to fome diftance. After we had removed from the table, the perfon, who had the direction of the entertainment, called our fer-vants, and ordered them to fit down at the tables, and eat. This produced a very diverting fcene; but, had it not been complied with, the governor would have thought himfelf highly affronted. In the evening, the Emperor's third fon went through this city, on his way towards the capital. He was carried, upon men's flioulders, in a palankin; a vehicle very eafy for the traveller, and well known in European fettlements in india. The Emperors fons have no other names than thofe of firft, fecond, third, &c. This prince had only a fmall retinue of a few horfemen. Our new conductor, tulishin, invited the ambaffador TO PEKIN, 343 factor and his retinue to pafs the evening at his lodg-chap.viii. ings. His excellency excufed himfelf, as he had not I72°-been at the governor s. All the gentlemen, however, accepted the invitation. The entertainment was elegant, and fomething like that I formerly defcribed, accompanied with dancing and mufick, and quail-fighting. It is furprifing to fee how thefe little birds fly at one another, as foon as they are fet upon the table; and fight, like game-cocks, to death. The Chinese are very fond of this diverfion; and bet as high on their quails, as the English do on cocks. They are alfo great lovers of cock-fighting; but it is reckoned among the vulgar fports. The quails are generally parted before they hurt one another too much; and refcrved, in cages, till another occafion. The 9th, having fent off the baggage in the morning, the ambaflador returned the governors vifit. We only if aid to drink tea; after which v/e immedi* ately mounted, and purfued our journey to a fmall town called jun y ; where we arrived in the evening. Near this place is a fteep rock, Handing on a plain, inacceflible on all fides, except to the well; where a narrow winding path is cut in the rock, which leads to a pagan temple and nunnery, built upon the top of it. Thefe 344 A JOURNEY chap.viii. Thefe edifices make a pretty appearance from the 1720. plain. anc^ as tne ftory goes, were built, from the foundation, in one night, by a lady, on the following occafion. This lady was very beautiful, virtuous, and rich; and had many powerful princes for her fuitors. She told them, fhe intended to build a temple and a monaftery, of certain dimenfions, with her own hands, in one night, on the top of this rock; and whoever would undertake to build a Hone-bridge, over a river in the neighbourhood, in the fame fpace of time, him (lie promifed to accept for a husband. All the lovers, having heard the difficult task impofed on them, returned to their refpecfive dominions; except one if ranger, who undertook to perform the hard condition. The lover and the lady began their labour at the fame time; and the lady completed her part before the light appeared; but, as foon as the fun was rifen, fhe faw, from the top of the rock, that her lover had not half-finiihed his bridge; having raifed only the pillars for the arches. Failing, therefore, in his part of the performance, he alfo was obliged to depart to his own country; and the lady paffed the remainder of her days in her own monaftery. The river is about a quarter of a mile from the rock, TO PEKIN. 345 rock, and the pillars ftill remain about five or fix chap.viii. feet above the water; they are fix or eight in number, JL-vj and good fubftantial work. This talc I relate as a fpecimen of many fabulous ftories, which I heard every day, and the people firmly believe. In the monaftery there are, at prefent, many monks and nuns. The chain of mountains running to the north, which bound this plain to the weft, are very high, rugged, and barren. Their breadth, from the defert to the plain habitable country of china, I compute not to exceed fifteen or twenty miles, and in many places it is much lefs. But their length, I am informed, is above one thoufand English miles. They en-compafs all, or the greateft part of the empire of china, to the north and weft. Thefe impregnable bulwarks, together with the almoft impaftable deferts, have, in my opinion, fo long preferved this nation from being over-run by the weftern heroes. One would imagine, that a country, fo fortified by nature, had little need of fuch a ftrong wall for its defence; for, if all the paifes of the mountains are as narrow and difficult as that where we entered, a fmall number of men might defend it againft a mighty army. Juny is but a fmall place; it fuffercd greatly by the Vol. L X x earth- 346 A JOURNEY chap.viii.earthquake that happened in the month of July the ^7^^ preceding year; above one half of it being thereby laid in ruins. Indeed more than one half of the towns and villages, through which we travelled this day, had fuffered much on the fame occafion; and vaft numbers of people had been buried in the ruins. I muft com fefs, it was a difmal fcenc to fee, every where, fuch heaps of rubbifh. All the beft houfes being thrown down by the earthquake, we were lodged in the priefts apartments of a temple, which had efeapcd the general devaftation. Our conductor treated the monks with very little ceremony, and deiired them to feek other lodgings for themfelves. Thefe priefts were not at all fuperftiti-ous, as appeared fufficiently from the little reverence they paid to their idols, and ftatues of reputed faints. They conducted us into the temple, and feveral apartments adjoining, where ftood many images of faints, fome of which were monftrous figures of ftone and plai-fter. One of the priefts gave us the hiftory of fome of them; which I thought too abfurd to be inferred. We then returned into the temple, which was a fmall but neat building. In one end of it we faw an altar, rifing by fteps to the cieling, on which were placed a number TO PEKIN. 347 number of fmall images, caff chiefly in brafs, refemb-CHAP.vur. ling men and women, birds and beafts. We were en- I720-tertained in the temple with tea, till the priefts had removed their beds. At the entrance is hung a large bell, attended by a prieft, who tolls it on feeing paffen-gers, in order to invite them to fay their prayers; which having done, they generally leave a fmall gratuity to the temple. In the night, we were a little alarmed with the fhock of an earthquake, which awakened all our people, but did no damage. Next day, our conductor notified to the ambaflador, that he could proceed no farther till he received an anfwer to fome difpatches he had fent to court. Thefe news were not altogether agreeable, as we apprehended another fhock of an earthquake. Nothing, however, of that kind happened during the two days we were obliged to remain at this place. The 12th, we continued our journey to a little town, where we lodged. This, and moft of the towns, and villages, through which we paffed to day, had fuf-fered greatly by the earthquake; particularly one confiderable walled town, where very few houfes remained, and the walls were levelled with the ground. X x 2 About 348 A JOURNEY chap.viii. About noon, next day, we came to a large, popu-I72°- lous, and well built city, with broad ilreets, as (fraight as a line. Near this place runs a fine river, which appears navigable*, having a-crofs it a noble ftone bridge, of feveral arches, and paved with large fquare if ones. In the evening, we arrived at a fmall town, after paf-fing through a very pleafant and fruitful country. On the 14th, we halted at this little town. But our baggage, and his majefty's prefents, advanced a ffage farther. Thefe, by order of the Mandarin, our conductor, were carried on mens moulders, covered with pieces of yellow filk; as every thing is which hath any connexion with the court. Whatever is diftineuifhed by this badge is looked on as facred. And he who has the care of any thing belonging to the Emperor needs no other protection: fuch is the reverence paid him all over the empire. The yellow colour is chof-en by the Emperor, becaufe, among the Chinese, it is the emblem of the fun, to which he is compared. The following day, our road, lying over fome rocks, was very rugged. In fome places it was cut, for a confiderable length, above twenty feet deep, through the folid rock; which appears to have been a work of great .labour and expence. But no people, I ever faw, take fuch TO PEKIN. fuch pains to make their ftreets, and high-ways, eafycw to travellers, as the Chinese. In fome places of the rocks were cut out images of Chinese faints; bat the workmanftiip very mean. Near this place, we paffed through fix or eight ftrong femicircular walls, within one another, which have the endlefs wall for their common diameter, and take in a great compafs. In all thefe walls there are large well built gates, guarded by a conftant watch, both in times of peace and war. At one of them, the ambaflador was faluted with three great guns, from a tower over the gate-way. Thefe walls feem to be of the fame materials and architecture with the long wall; having fquare towers at the diftance of a bow-fhot from each other. While we flopped at one of the gates to refrefti ourfelves, I took the opportunity to walk into one of thefe towers, where I faw fome hundreds of old iron cannon thrown together as ufelefs. On examination, I found them to be compofed of three or four pieces of hammered iron, joined, and fattened together with hoops of the fame metal. The Chinese have, however, now learned to call as fine brafs cannon as are any where to be found. From this tower I was led, by a broad ftone-ftair, to the top of the 350 A JOURNEY chap.viii.the wall, which is above twenty feet in breadth, and l72°- paved with large fquare ftones, clofely joined, and cemented with ftrong mortar. I walked along this flat, till I came to a rock, where I found a high ftair of a* bove a thoufand fteps, the whole breadth of the wall, which led to a tower on the fummit, from whence I could fee a like ftair, on the other fide, forming a de-fcent to a narrow paffage between two rocks. I obferved alfo, that the wall was neither fo high nor broad where it was carried over another rock, to the fouth-weft, as at the place where I flood. But time not allowing me to go farther, I returned, by the fame way, to our company; and, after flaying a few hours, we proceeded, this afternoon, to the town of zulin-cuang, where we lodged. The next day, after travelling about two hours, we came to the laft femicircular wall. Here ended all the hills and mountains. Our road now lay through a fine champaign country, interfperfed with many fmall towns and villages. In the evening, we reached a large neat city called zang-ping-jew. In the market place, ftood a triumphal arch, whereon were hung a number of ftreamers, and filken pendants, of various colours. The ftreets were clean, ftraight, and broad; in fome places TO PEKIN. 351 places covered with gravel, in others paved with flat chap.vnr. fquare ftones. 1720. As foon as we had reached our lodgings, the governor of the place came to falute the ambaflador, and invited him to an entertainment, prepared by order of his majefty. The invitation was accepted, and we immediately went to the governor's palace. The entertainment was very magnificent, fomewhat of the fame kind with that I formerly deferibed, and accompanied with mufick and dancing. This place is fituated in a fruitful plain, about thirty English miles northward of pekin. The 17th, after travelling about a dozen of miles, we came to a fmall town called shach. The weather being very fine and warm, the governor came to meet the ambaflador, and defired him to refrefti himfelf a little by drinking tea. Here we halted about an hour, and then proceeded fix or eight miles farther, to a fmall village, about four miles from the capital; where we lodged. Next morning, two Mandarins came from court to congratulate the ambaffador on his arrival, and brought fome horfes, on which he and his retinue were to make their entry. The furniture of the horfes 352 A JOURNEY chap.viii.fcs was very fimple, and far inferior to the coflly trap-l72°* pings of the Persians. My lodgings, in this village, happened to be at a cooks houfe; which gave me an opportunity of ob-fcrving the ingenuity of thefe people, even on trifling occafions. My landlord being in his fhop, I paid him a vifit; where I found fix kettles, placed in a row on furnaces, having a feparate opening under each of them, for receiving the fewel, which confifted of a few fmall flicks and flraw. On his pulling a thong, he blew a pair of bellows, which made all his kettles boil in a very fhort time. They are indeed very thin, and made of call iron, being extremely fmooth both within and without. The fcarcity of fewel, near fuch a populous city, prompts people to contrive the eafiefl methods of drefling their victuals, and keeping themfelves warm during the winter, which is fevere for two, months. About ten of the clock, we mounted, and proceeded towards the city, in the following order. An officer, with his fword drawn. Three foldiers. One kettle-drummer. Twenty four foldiers, three in a rank. The TO PEKIN. The fteward. Twelve footmen. Two pages. Three interpreters. The ambaiTador, and a Mandarin of diftinction. Two fecretaries. Six gendemen, two and two. Servants and attendants. The whole retinue was dreft in their beft apparel. The foldiers in uniform, carrying their muskets like horfemen ftanding centry; drawn fwords being refufed by our conductor, the officer only had that priviledge. We travelled from the village, along a line road, through a cloud of duft and multitudes of fpectators*, and, in two hours, entered the city at the great north gate; which opened into a fpacious ftreet, perfectly flraight, as far as the eye-light could reach. We found it all fprinkled with water, which was very re-freibing after the duft we had paffed through. A guard of five hundred Chinese horfemen was appointed to clear the way; notwithftanding which, we found it very difficult to get through the crowd. One would have imagined all the people in pekin were af-fembled to fee us; though I was informed that only a Vol. I. Yy fmall chap.viii. 1720. A JOURNEY .fmall part of the inhabitants of the city were prefent, I obferved alfo great crowds of women unveiled; but they kept in the windows, doors, and in corners of the ftreet. The foldiers did not behave with roughnefs to the people, as in fome other places of the eaft; but treated them with great mildnefs and humanity. Indeed the people, of themfelves, made as much way as was poflible for them, conlidering their numbers. After a mai'ch of two hours from the gate where we entered ; we, at laft, came to our lodgings, in that part of the city called the tartars town; which is near the center of pekin, and not far from the Emperor's palace. We lodged in what is called the Russu-houfe. Ic was allotted, by the prefent Emperor, for the accommodation of the caravans from moscovy ; and is fur-rounded with a high wall of brick, which inclofes three courts. The firft, from the ftreet, is appointed for the p-uard of Chinese foldiers. The fecond is a fpa-cious fquarc, on the fides whereof are apartments for fervants. The third is divided from the fecond by a high brick-wall, through which you enter by a great gate. Oppofite to tins gate is the great hall, which iifes a- few fteps above the level of the court. The floor TO PEKIN. 355 floor is neatly paved with white and black marble;chap.viii. and, on the fame floor, to the right and left of the I72°* hall, are two fmall bed-chambers. This hall was occupied by the ambaffador. In the fame court are two large houfes, divided into apartments, in which the retinue was lodged. All thefe ftructures are but of one ftory, with large windows of lettice-work, on which is paffed white paper. The cielings are very flight and airy; confiding only of ftrong laths, with reeds laid a-crofs them, and done over on the in-fide with paper. The roofs project confiderably over the walls, and are covered with fine, light, glazed tiles; which, as far as I could learn, are of a quality to laft ages. The bed-chambers only of the hall are neatly finifhed with lath and plaifter. The fame evening, the mafter of the ceremonies came to compliment the ambaffador. He, in the Emperor's name, enquired into the chief fubject of his commiffion; and, having received a fatisfactory anfwer, retired. - This gentleman, named aloy, was, by birth, a mongall tartar; and a great favourite of the Emperor. He was a perfon of great politenefs; and a good friend to the christians, efpecially the miflio- Y y 2 nariesj 35<5 A JOURNEY chap.viii. naries, who received frefh marks of his kindnefs every ^7^^ day. In his youth he converted much with the jesui ftfj who taught him geography, and fome other branche3 of fcience; which contributed not a little to raife his character among the Chinese, and recommend him to the notice and favour of the Emperor. Thus we happily arrived at the famous and long wifhed for city of pekin, the capital of this mighty empire, after a tedious journey of exactly fix teen* months. It is, indeed, very long; yet may be performed in much lefs time. I am of opinion that travellers might go from st. Petersburg to pekin, and return, in the fpace of fix months; which, were it ne-ceflary, I think I could eafily dcmonflrate. After the departure of the maflcr of the ceremonies, the aleggada, or prime minifler, fent an officer to falute the ambaffador, and excufe himfelf for noe paying him a vifit immediately, as it was then late in the night; but promifed to fee him next day. At the fame time he fent great variety of fruits and provifions, as a mark of refpect, notwithffancjing we were abundantly fupplied with thefe things by thofe ap* pointed for that purpofe. At ten of the clock at night, the officer on guard* in. TO PEKIN. in the outer-court, locked our gate, and fealed it withcHAP the Emperors fcal; that no perfon might go out, or l7x come in, during the night. The ambaflador, not approving of this proceeding, as foon as the gate was opened in the morning, fent his fecretary, and an interpreter, to the prime minifter, to complain of his being confined. The aleggada faid he was altogether ignorant of what had happened; but exprefsly forbid any fuch behaviour for the future. In per si a, indeed, and fome other nations of the eaft, it is the cu-ftom to reflrain foreign minifters from converting with the inhabitants, till they have had an audience of the prince. the end of the first volume.