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f.
NARRATIVE
of the
EXPEDITION
T 9
BOTANY    B A Y.
of the
EXPEDITION
T O
BOTANY BAY;
WITH AN ACCOUNT OF
NEW   SOUTH WALES, ;ts productions, inhabitants, &c,
TO   WHICH    IS SUBJOINED,
A List of the Civil and Military Establishments at
PORT JACKSON,
by captain wat kin tench, of    the    marines. .
london:
PRINTED    FOR   J.  DEHRETT, OPPOSITE IURLINGTON-UOUSE, PICCADILLY.
I78Q.
INTRODUCTION,
J N offering this little tract, to the public, it is equally the writer's wifli to conduce to their amulement and information.
The expedition on which he is engaged has excited much curiofity, and given birth to many fpeculations, refpecting the confc-quences to arife from it.   While men continue to think freely, they will judge va-rioufly.   Some have been languine enough to forefee the mofl beneficial effects to the Parent State, from the Colony we are endeavouring to eftablifh ; and fome have not been wanting to pronounce the fcheme big with folly, impolicy, and ruin.   Which of thefe predictions will be completed, I leave to the decifion of the public.   I cannot,
how-
however, difmifs the fubjecl: without ex- * prefling a hope, that the candid and liberal of each opinion, induced by the humane and benevolent intention ii\ which it originated, will unite in waiting the refult of a fair trial to an experiment, no lefs new in its defign, than difficult in its execution.
As this publication enters the world with the name of the author, candour will, he trufts, induce its readers to believe, that no confideration could weigh with him in an endeavour to miCeucl them. Facts are related {imply as they happened, and when opinions are hazarded, they are fuch as, he hopes, patient inquiry, and deliberate decision, will be found to have authorifed. For the molt part he has fpoken from actual obfervation ; and in thofe places where the relations of others have been unavoidably adopted, he has been careful to fearch for the truth, and reprefs that fpirit of exaggeration which is almoft ever the effect of novelty oi\ ignorance.
The nautical part of the work, is com-* prized in as few pages as poffible.   By the profeffional part of my readers this will be deemed judicious ; and the reft will not, I believe, be diflatisfied at its brevity.   I beg leave, however, to fay of the agronomical calculations, that they may be depended on with the greater!: degree of fecurity, as they were communicated by an officer, who was furnifhed with inftruments, and commifTion-ed by the Board of Longitude, to make* obfervations during the voyage, and in the fouthern hemifphere.
An unpra&ifed writer is generally anxious to befpeak public attention, and to folicit public indulgence.   Except on profeffional fubjects, military men are, perhaps, too fearful of critical cenfure.   For the prefent narrative no other apology is attempted, than the intentions of its author, who has endeavoured not only to fatisfy prefent curiofity, but to point out to future adventurers, the favourable, as well as adverfe circumftanccs which will attend their fettling here. The candid, it is hcped, will overlook the inac-i curacies
curacies of this imperfect iketch, drawn amidfl: the complicated duties of the fervice in which the Author is engaged, and make due allowance for the want of opportunity" of gaining more exteufive information.
WAT KIN TENCH, Capt. of the Marines.
Sydney Cove, Portjackfor* New South Wales, July 10, 1788.
t he
CONTENTS.
CHAP. I,
JPage;
0 M the Embarkation of the ConviBs to the Departure of the Ships from England - - i to 4 II. From the Departure to the Arrival of
the Fleet at TenerirTe -    5 to 9
III. "The Fleet's Arrival at TenerirTe to its
Departure for Rio de Janeiro, in
the Brazils     - 1 o to 17
IV. The Fa ([age from Teneriffe to Rio de Janeiro - - -17 to 21
V. From the Arrival of the Fleet at Rio de Janeiro till its Departure for the Cape of Good Hope, with fome Remarks on the Brazils    -      - 211032
b VI. The
CONTENTS*
VI. The Pajfage from the Brazils to the Cape of Good Hope ; with an Account of the TranfatYions of the Fleet there     - - -   33 to 40
VIL The Pajfage from the Cape of Good
Hope to Botany Bay      -      - 41104$
VIII, From the Fleet's Arrival at Botany
Bay to the Evacuation of it, and taking Pojfejfion of Port Jackfon. Interviews with the Natives, and an Account of the Country about Botany Bay - -   49 to 58
IX. The taking Pojfejfion o/Port Jackfon,
with  the Difembarkation of the Marines and ConviBs    - -   59 to 64
X- The Reading of the Commijfions, and taking Pojfejfion of the Settlement in Form, with an Account of the Courts of Law, and the Mode of adminif-terhg Public Jujlke in this Country 65 to ft
%\. A Deferiptum of the Natives of'New South Wales, and our Tranfatlions with them       -        - 76 to 94
XII. The Departure of the French from Botany Bay, and the Return of the Supply from Norfolk Ifland, zvith a Difcovcry made by Lieut. Ball in his Paffage to it        - -   9 5 to 1 o i
XIII. Tw-
CONTENTS.
Page.
XIII. Tranfatlions at Port Jackfon in the
Months of April and May      -   102 to 108
XIV. From the Beginning of June to the
Departure of the Ships for Europe 109 to 116
XV. The Face of the Country, its Produc-
,   tions, Climate, &c. -       117 to 131
XVI. The Progrefs made in the Settlement,
and the Situation of Affairs at the Time of the Ship, which conveys this Account, failing for England      132 to 137
XVII. Some Thoughts on the Advantages which may arife to   the Mother
Country from forming the Colony    13 8 to 143 4 Lift of the Civil and Military EftabUfi-
menii in New South Wales       144 to 146
EXPEDITION
T O
BOTANY BAY.
CHAP. L
From the Embarkation of the ConvlSls to the Departure of the Ships from England.
rJ^y H E marines and convicts having been previously embarked in the river, at Portfmouth, and Plymouth, the whole fleet 4eftined for the expedition rendezvoufed at the Mother Bank, on the 16th of March 1787, and remained there until the 13th of May following.   In this period, excepting a (light appearance of contagion, in one of B the
( * )
the tranfports, the mips were univerfally healthy, and the prifoners in high fpirits. Few complaints or lamentations were to be heard among them, and an ardent wifh for the hour of departure feemed generally to prevail.
As the reputation, equally with the fafety of the officers and foldiers appointed to. guard the convicts, confifted in maintaining due fubordination, an opportunity was taken, immediately on their being embarked, to convince them, in the moft pointed terms, that any attempt on their fide, either to contcfl the command, or to force their ef-cape, mould be punijhed with inftant death ; orders to this effect were given to the cen-tinels in their prefence ; happily, however, for all parties, there occurred not any in-ftance in which there was occafion to have recourfe to fb defperate a meafure ; the be* haviour of the convicts being in general humble, fubmifuve, and regular : indeed, I mould feel myfelf wanting in jufiice t.o thofe unfortunate men, were I not to bear this
public
public teitimony of the fobriety and decency of their conduct.
Unpleafant as a ftate of inactivity and delay for many weeks appeared to us, it was not without its advantages; for by means of it we were enabled to eftablifh necefYary regulations among the convicts, and to adopt fuch a fyftem of defence, as left us little to apprehend for our own fecurity, in cafe a fpirit of madnefs and defperation had hurried them on to attempt our deftruction.
Among many other troublefome parts of duty which the fervice we were engaged on required,  the infpection of all letters brought to, or fcnt from the mips, was not one of the leaft tirefome and difa-greeable.   The number and contents of thofe in the veflel I was embarked in, frequently furprifed me very much ; they varied according to the difpolitions of the writers : but their conftant language was, an apprehenlion of the impracticability of returning home, the dread of a fickly paf-iage, and the fearful profpedt of a diftant and B 2 bar-
barbarous country. But this apparent de* fpondency proceeded in few inftances from fentiment. With too many it was, doubt-lefs, an artifice to awaken companion, and call forth relief; the correfpondence invariably ending in a petition for money and tobacco. Perhaps a want of the latter, which is confidered a great luxury by its admirers among the lower clanes of life, might be the more feverely felt, from their being debarred in all cafes whatever, ficknefs excepted, the ufe of fpirituous liquors.
It may be thought proper for me to mention, that during our flay at the Mother Bank, the foldiers and convicts were indif-criminately ferved with frefh beef. The former, in addition, had the ufual quantity of beer allowed in the navy, and were at what is called full allowance of all fpecies of provifions.; the latter, at two thirds only.
C II A P.
CHAP. II.
From the Departure to the Arrival of the Fleet at TenerirTe.
May 1587.
QOVERNOR Phillip having at length reached Portfmeuth, and all things deemed neceflary for the expedition being put on board, at daylight on the morning of the 13th, the fignal to weigh anchor was made in the Commanding Officer's (hip the Sirius.   Before fix o'clock the whole fleet were under fail, and, the weather being fine and wind eafterly, proceeded through the Needles with a frefh leading breeze. In addition to our little armament, the Hyena frigate was ordered to accompany us a certain diitance to the weftward, by which means our number was increafed to twelve fail: His Majefty's mips Sirius, Hyena, and Supply,   three Victuallers with two years ftores and provifions on board for the Settlement, and fix Tranfports, with
troops
troops and convicts. In the tranfports Were embarked four captains, twelve fubal-terns, twenty-four ferjeants and corporals, eight drummers, and one hundred and lixty private marines, making the whole of the military force, including the Major Com-maudant and Staff on board the Sirius, to confiit of two hundred and twelve perfons, of whom two hundred and ten were volunteers. The number of convicts was five hundred and {ixty-five men, one hundred and ninety-two women, and eighteen children ; the major part of the prifoners were mechanics and huibandmcn, (elected on pur-pofe by order of Government.
By ten o'clock we had got clear of the Ifle of Wight, at. which time, having very little pleafure in converting with my own thoughts, I ftrolled down among the convicts, to obferve their feiithnents at this juncture. A very few excepted, their countenances indicated a high degree of fatisfac-tion, though in fomc, the pang of being fevered, perhaps for ever, from their native
land,
land, could not      wholly fuppreffed ; in general, marks of diftrefs were more perceptible among the men than the women ; for I recollect to have feen but one of thofc affected on the oGcafion, I! Some natural " tears fhe dropp'd, but wip'd them foon." After this the accent of forrow was no longer heard ; more genial ikies and change of fcene banffhed repining and difcontent, and introduced in their flead cheerfulnefs and acquiefcence in a Jot, now not to be altered.
To add to the good difpofition which was, beginning to manifeft itfelf, on the morning of the 30th, in confequence of fome favorable reprefentations made by the officers Commanding detachments, they were hailed and told from the Sirius, that in thofe cafes where they judged it proper, they were at liberty to releafe the convicts from the fetters in which they had been hitherto confined.   In complying with thefe directions, 1 had great pleafure in being able to extend this humane order to the whole of thofe under my charge, without a iingle excep-,z tion.
tion. It is hardly necenary for mc to fay, that the precaution of ironing the convicts at any time reached to the men only.
In the evening of the fame day, the Hyena left us for England, which afforded an early opportunity of writing to our friends, and earing their apprehenfions by a communication of the favourable accounts it was in our power to fend them,
From this time to the day of our making the land, little occurred worthy of remark, I cannot, however, help noticing the propriety of employing the marines on a fer-: vice which requires activity and exertion at fea, in preference to other troops. Had a regiment recruited fince the war been fent out, fea-ficknefs would have incapacitated half the men from performing the duties immediately and indifpenfat>ly necef-fary ; whereas the marines, from being ac-cuftorned to ferve on hoard mip, accommodated themfelves with eafe to every exn gency, and furmounted every difficulty*
At
At daybreak, on the morning of the 30th of May we faw the rocks named tne Defer-ters, which lie off the fouth-eaft end of Madeira ; and found the fouth-eaft extremity of the raoft foutherly of them, to be in the latitude of 320 28' north, longitude 16° 17I' weft of Greenwich. The following day we faw the Salvages, a clufter of rocks which are placed between the Madeiras and Canary Iflands, and determined the latitude of the middle of the Great Salvage to be 300 i2/ north, and the longitude of its eafteni fide to be 150 30/ weft. It is no lefs extraordinary than unpardonable, that in fome very modern charts of the Atlantic, publifhed in London, the Salvages are totally omitted.
We made the ifland of Teneriffe on the 3d of June, and in the evening anchored in the road of Santa Cruz, after an excellent pahage of three weeks from the day we left England.
C
CHAP.
(   to )
C H A P. III.
From the Fleet*s Arrival at TenerirTe, U hi
HERE is little to plcafe a traveller at
TenerirTe. He has heard wonders of its celebrated Peake, but he may remain for weeks together at the town of Santa Cruz without having a glimpfe of it, and when ?ts cloud-topped heademerges, the chance is, that he feels difappointed, for, from the point of view in which he fees it, the neighbouring mountains leflen its effect very confiderably. Excepting the Peake, the eye receives little pleafure from the general face of the country, which is fieri le and uninviting to the lalt degree. The town, however, from its cheerful white appearance, contrafled with the dreary brown nefs of the back ground, makes not an unpleating coup d\ml. It is neither irregular in its plan, nor delpicable in its ltyle of building; and the
Departure for Rio de Janeiro, in the Brazils.
churches
churches and religious houfes are numerous, fumpriious, and highly ornamented.
The morning of our arrival, as many officers as could be fpared from the different mips were introduced to the Marquis de Brancifort, Governor of the Canary lilands, whole reception was highly flattering and polite.    His Excellency is a Sicilian by birth, and is mofl defervedly popular in his government.   He prefers refiding at TenerirTe, for the conveniency of frequent com* munication with Europe,  to the Grand Canary, which  is properly the feat of power; and though not long fixed here, has already found means to eftablifh a manufactory in cotton, filk, and thread, under excellent regulations, which employs more than fixty perfons, and is of infinite fervice to the common people.   During our fhort flay we had every day fome frefh proof of his Excellency's efteem and attention, and had the honour of dining with him, in a ftyle of equal elegance and fplendor.   At this entertainment the profufion of ices which appeared in the defert was furpriiing, con-C 2, riders
fidering that we were enjoying them under a fun nearly vertical. But it feems the caverns of the Peake, very far below its fummit, afford, at all feafons, ice in abundance.
The reftlefs importunity of the beggars, and the immodefty of the loweff, clafs of women, are highly difgufting. From the number of his countrymen to be found, an Engiifhman is at no lofs for fociety. In the mercantile houfes eftablifhed here, it is from gentlemen of this defcription that any information is derived, for the taciturnity of the Spaniards is not to be overcome in a fhort acquaintance, efpecially by Englifhmen, whofe referve falls little fhort of their own. The inland country is defcribed as fertile, and highly romantic; and the environs of the fmall town of Laguza mentioned as particularly plcafant. Some of our officers who made an excuriion to it confirmed the account amply.
It mould fecm that the power of the Church, which has been fo long on the decline
dine in Europe, is at length beginning to be ihaken in the colonies of the Catholic powers: fome recent instances which have taken place at TenerifFe, evince it very fully, Were not a flranger, however, to be apprized of this, he would hardly draw the conclufion from his own obfervations. The Bifhop of thefe iilands, which conjunctively form a See, refldes on the Grand Canary. He is reprelented as a man in years, and of a character as amiable as exalted, extremely beloved both by foreigners and thofe of his own church. The bifhopric is valued at ten thoufand pounds per annum; the go* vernmenf: at fomewhat lefs than two.
In fpite of every precaution, while we laid at anchor in the road, a convict had the ad-drefs, one night, to fecrete himfelf on the deck, when the reft were turned below ; and after remaining quiet fome hours, let himfelf down over the bow of the fhip, and floated to a boat that laid aitern, into which he got, and cutting her adrift, fufTeredhim-felf to be carried away by the current, until at a fufneient diftance to be out of hearing,
when
(   H )
when he rowed off. This elopement was not difcovered till fome hours after, when a. fearch being made, and boats fent to the different parts of the ifland, he was difcovered in a fmall cove, to which he had fled for refuge. On being questioned, it appeared he had endeavoured to get himfelf received on board a Dutch Eafl Indiaman in the road, but being rejected there, he re-i folved on crafting over to the Grand Canary, which is at the diftance of ten leagues, and when detected, was recruiting his ftrength in order to make the attempt. At the fam$ time that the boats of the fleet were lent on this purfuit, information was given to the Spanifh Governor of what had happened, who immediately detached parties every way in order to apprehend the delinquent.
Having remained a week at TenerilTe, and in that time completed our ftock of water, and taken on board wine, &c. early on the morning of the i oth of June we weighed anchor, and flood out to fea with a light eafterly breeze. The fho.rtnefs of our ft ay, and the confequent hurry, prevented our increafing
much.
t   '5 )
much any previous knowledge we might have had of the place. For the information of thole who may follow us on this fervicc, it may not, however, be amifs to ftate the little that will be found of ufe to them*
The markets afford frefh meat, though it is neither plentiful nor good. Filh is icarce, but poultry may be procured in almoft any quantity, at as cheap a rate as in the Englilh fea-ports.   Vegetables do not abound, except pumpkins and onions, of which I advife all Ihips to lay in a large ftock. Milch goats are bought for a trine, and eafily procured. Grapes cannot be fcarce in their feafon, but when we were here, except figs and excellent mulberries, no fruit was to be procured.    Dry wines, as the merchants term them, are fold from ten to fifteen pounds a pipe ; for the latter price the very belt., called the London Particular, may be bought: fwect wines are confiderably dearer. Brandy is alio a cheap article.    I would -not avlvile the voyager to depend on this place for either his hogs or fheep.   And he will do well to fupply himfelf with dollars 2 before
(  i6 )
before he quits England, to expend in the different ports he may happen to touch at. Should he, however, have neglected this precaution, let him remember when hedifcounts bills, or exchanges Englifh money here, not to receive his returns in quarter dollars, which will be tendered to him, but altogether in whole ones, as he will find the latter turn to better account than the former, both at Rio de Janeiro and the Cape of Good Hope.
The latitude of the town of Santa Cruz is 280 zjjf north, the longitude 160 17!' weft of Greenwich,
CHAP.
(   t7 )
CHAP. IV.
The Pajfage from TenerirTe to Rio de Janeiro, in the Brazils.
TN failing from TenerirTe to the fouth-eaft, the various and pi&urcfque appearances of the Peake are beautiful to the higheft degree.   The ftupendous height, which before was loft on the traveller, now ftrikes him with awe and admiration, the whole ifland appearing one vaft mountain with a pyramidal top.    As we proceeded with light winds, at an eafy rate, we law it dif-tinclly for three days after our departure, and fhould have continued to fee it longer, had not the hazinefs of the atmofpliere interrupted our view.   The good people of Santa Cruz tell fome ftories of the wonderful extent of fpace to be feen from the fum-mit of it, that would not dilgrace the memoirs of the ever-memorable Earon Mun-chau fen.
D
On
On the 18th of June we law the molt northerly of the Cape de Verd Iflands, at which time the Commodore gave the fleet to underftand, by iignal, that his intention was to touch at fome of them. The following day we made St. Jago, and flood in to gain an anchorage in Port Praya Bay. But the bafflinsc winds and Ice current rendering it a matter of doubt whether or not the mips would be able to fetch, the iignal for anchoring was hauled down, and the fleet bore up before the wind. In pafling along them we were enabled toafcertain the fouth end of the Ifle of Sal to be in 16° 4o/ north latitude, and 230 5' well longitude. The fouth end of Bonavifta to be in 150 57' north, 230 8' weft. The fouth end of the Ifle of May in 15° J north, 230 26' weft ; and the longitude of the fort, in the town of Port Praya, to be 230 36^ weft of Greenwich.
. By this time the weather, from the fun being fo far advanced in the northern tropic, was become intolerably hot, which, joined to the heavy rains that foon after came on, made us very apprehenfive for the health of 1 the
the fleet.   Contrary, however, to expectation, the number of lick in the fhip I was embarked on was furprifingly {mall, and the reft of the fleet were nearly as healthy. Frequent explolions of gunpowder, lighting fires between decks, and a liberal ufe of that admirable antifeptic, oil of tar, were, the preventives we made ufe of againll impure air; and above all things we were careful to keep the mens' bedding and wearing apparel dry.    As we advanced towards the Line the weather grew gradually better and more pleafant.   On the 14th of July we palled the Equator, at which time the atmo-iphere was as ferene, and the temperature of the air not hotter than in a bright fum-mer day in England.   From this period, until our arrival on the American coall, the heats, the calrrfs, and the rains by which we had been fo much incommoded, were lucceeded by a feries of weather as delightful as it was unlooked for. At three o'clock in the afternoon of the 2d of AuguiT, the Supply, which had been previouily feut a-head on purpofe, made the fignal for feeing the land, which was vilibfc to the whole D 2 fleet
(    *0 )
fleet before funfet, and proved to be Cape Frio, in latitude 230 5' fouth, longitude 41° 40$' weft.
Owing to light airs we did not get a-brcaft of the city of St. Sebaftian, in the harbour of Rio de Janeiro, until the 7th of the' month, when we anchored about three quarters of a mile from the {fiore*
CHAR
C II A P. V.
From the Arrival of the Fleet at Rio de Ja^ neiro, till its Departure for the Cape of Good Hope, with fome Remarks on the Brazils.
Angiift, 1787,
T) R A ZIL is a country very imperfectly known in Europe. The Portugueze, from political motives, have been fparing in their accounts of it. Whence our de-fcriptions of it, in the geographical publications in England are drawn, I know not; that they are miierably erroneous and defective, is certain.
The city of St. Sebaftian frauds on the Weft fide of the harbour, in a low unhealthy fituation, furrounded on all fides by hills, which ftop the free circulation of air, and fubject its inhabitants to intermittents and putrid difeafes.   It is of confiderable extent: Mr. Cook makes it as large as Liverpool; Lu Liverpool, in 1767,  when Mr. Cook
wrote,
( " )
wrote, was not two-thirds of its prefent fize.   Perhaps it equals Chefter, or Exeter, in the fhare of ground it occupies, and is infinitely more populous than  either of them.   The ilreets interfecT each other at, right angles, are tolerably well built, and excellently paved, abounding with (hops of every kind,  in which  the wants of a ilranger, if money is not one of them, can hardly remain unfatisfied.   About the centre of the city, and at a little difiance from the beach, the Palace of the Viceroy Hands, a long, low building, nowife remarkable   in   its  exterior   appearance ; though within are fome fpacious and hand-fome apartments.   The churches and convents are numerous, and richly decorated; hardly a night panes without fome of the latter being illuminated, in honour of their patron faints, which has a very brilliant eff fed when viewed from the water, and was at firfl miflaken by us for public rejoicings. At the corner of almofl every ftreet {lands a little image of the Virgin, fluck rouncj with lights in an evening, before which pafTengers frequently {lop to pray and fmg
very
very loudly.   Indeed, the height to which religious zeal is carried in this place, cannot fail of creating aftonifhment in a ft ranger. The greateft part of the inhabitants feem to have no other occupation, than that of paying vifits and going to church, at which times you fee them fally forth richly drefled, en chapeau bras, with the appendages of a bag for the hair, and a fmall fword : even boys of fix years old are feen parading about, furnifhed with thefe indifpeniable requifites. Exce pt when at their devotions, it is not eafy to get a fight of the women, and when obtained, the comparifons drawn by a traveller, lately arrived from England, ar# little flattering to Portugueze beauty. In juftice, however, to the ladies of St. Sebaf-tian, I muft obferve, that the cuftom of throwing nofegays at ftrangers, for the pur-pofe of bringing on an aftignation, which Do&or Solander, and another gentleman of Mr. Cook's fhip met with when here, was never feen by any of us in a fingle inftance. We were lb deplorably unfortunate as to walk every evening before their windows and balconies, without being honoured with
a fingle
I H )
a fingle bouquet, though nymphs and flow-* tts were in equal and great abundance.
Among other public buildings, I had almoft forgot to mention an observatory, which ftands near the middle of the town, and is tolerably well furnifhed with aftrono-mical infrxuments. During our flay here, fome Spanifh and Portugueze mathematicians were endeavouring to determine the boundaries of the territories belonging to their reflective crowns. Unhappily, however, for the caufe of fcience, theie gentlemen have not hitherto been able to coincide in their accounts, fo that very little information on this head to be depended upon, could be gained. How far political motives may have caufed this difagreement, I do not prefume to decide; though it deferves notice, that the Portugueze accufe the Abbe de la Caille, who obferved here, by order of the King of France, of having laid down the longitude of this place 45 miles too much to the ealfward.
Until
Until the year 1770, alt the flour in the fettlemcnt was brought from Europe ; but fihce that time the inhabitants have made fo rapid a progrefs in raifing grain, as to be able to fupply themfelves with it abundantly. The principal corn country lies around Rio Grande, in the latitude of 320 fouth, where wheat flourifhes fo luxuriantly, as to yield from feventy to eighty bufnels for one.    Coffee alfo,  which   they formerly received from Portugal, now grows in fuch plenty, as to enable them to export confiderable quantities of it.   But the flaple commodity of the country is fugar. That they have not, however, learnt the art of making palatable rum, the Englifh troops in New South Wales can bear tefrimony; a large quantity, very ill flavoured, having been bought and (hipped here, for the ufe of the garrifon of Port Jackfon.
It was in 1771 that St. Salvador, which had for more than a century been the capital of Brazil, ceafed to be fo ; and that the feat of Government was removed to St. Sebaf-
E tian.
tian. The change took place on account of the colonial war, at that time carried on by the Courts of Lifbon and Madrid. And, indeed, were the object of fecurity alone to determine the feat of Government, I know but few places better fltuated in that refpect than the one I am describing; the natural Strength of the country, joined to the difficulties which would attend an attack on the fortifications, being iiich as to render it very formidable.
It may be prefumcd that the Portugueze Government is well apprized of this cir-cumftance, and of the little rifquc they run in being deprived of fo important a pofTef-iion, elfe it will not be eafy to penetrate the reafons which induce them to treat the troops who com pole the garrifon, with fuch cruel negligence. Their regiments were ordered out with a promife of being relieved, and lent back to Europe at the end of three years, in conformity to which they fettled all their domeftic arrangements. But the faith of Government has been broken, and at the expiration of twenty years, all that is left i to
to the remnant of thefe unfortunate men, is to fuffer in fubmifhve filcnce. I was one evening walking with a Portugueze officer, when this fubje£t was ftarted, and on my telling him, that fuch a breach of public honour to Englifh troops, would become a fubjecl of parliamentary inquiry, he feized my hand with great eagernefs, 41 Ah, Sir!" exclaimed he, " yours is a free
" country—we"-His emotions fpoke
what his tongue refufed.
As I am mentioning the army, I cannot help obferving,  that I faw nothing here to confirm the remark of Mr. Cook, that the inhabitants of the place, whenever they meet an officer of the garri-fon, bow to him with the greateft obfe-quioufnefs, and by omitting fuch a ceremony,  would   fubjecl  themfelves  to be knocked down, though the other feldom deigns to return the compliment.   The interchange of civilities is general between them, and fcems by no means extorted. The people who could fubmit to fuch infolent
E 2 fupe-i
( ^ )
fuperiority, would, indeed, deferve to be treated as (laves.
The Police of the city is very good. Soldiers patrole the Streets frequently, and riots are feldom heard of. The dreadful cuffom of (tabbing, from motives of private refentment, is nearly at an end, fince the church has ceafed to afford an aiylum to murderers. In other refpecls, the pro-grefs of improvement appears flow, and fettered by obstacles almoSt unfurmountable, whofe baneful influence will continue, until a more enlightened fy Stem of policy mail be adopted. From morning to night the ears of a Stranger are greeted by the tinkling of the convent bells? and his eyes faluted by procefiions of devotees, whofe adoration and levity feem to keep equal pace, and Succeed each other in turns. " Do you want to make your fon fick of foldiering ? (hew him the Trainbands of London on a field-day." Let him who would wifh to give his ign a diitafie to Popery, point out to him
the
the (loth, the ignorance, and the bigotry of jhis place.
Being nearly ready to depart by the ift of September, as many officers as poffible went on that day to the palace to take leave of his Excellency, the Viceroy of the Brazils, to whom we had been previously introduced ; who on this, and every other occafion, was pleafed to honour us with  the  mofl diftinguifhed   marks of regard   and   attention.     Some part, indeed, of the numerous indigencies we experienced during our ftay here, muft doubt-Jefs be attributed to the high refpedt. in which the Portugueze held Governor Phillip, who was for many years a captain in their navy, and commanded a fhip of war on this fbtion : in confequence of which, many privileges were extended to us, very unufual to be granted to Strangers. We were allowed the liberty of making fhort ex-curilons into the country, and on thefe oc-pafions, as well as when walking in the pity, the mortifying cuflom of having an
officer
officer of the garrifon attending us was dif-pen fed with on our leaving our names and ranks, at the time of landing, with the adjutant of orders at the palace. It happened, however, fometimcs, that the prefence of a military man was neccflary, to prevent im-pofition in the fhopkeepers, who frequently made a practice of afking more for their goods than the worth of them. In which cafe an officer, when applied to, always told us the iifual price of the commodity with the great-eft readinefs, and adjufted the terms of the purchafc.
On the morning of the fourth [September] we left Rio de Janeiro, amply furnifh-ed with the good things which its happy foil and clime fo abundantly produce. The future voyager may with fecurity depend on this place for laying in many parts of his ftock. Among theft may be enumerated fugar, coffee, rum, port wine, rice, tapioca, and tobacco, befides very beautiful wood for the purpofes of houfhold furniture. Poultry is not remarkably cheap, but ma)' be procured
in
(   3' )
in any quantity ; as may hops at a low rate. The markets are well fupplied with batcher's meat, and vegetables of every fort are to be procured at a price next to nothing; the yams are particularly excellent. Oranges abound fo much, as to be fold for fixpence a hundred ; and limes are to be had on terms equally moderate. Bananas, cocoa nuts, and guavas, are common ; but the few pineapples brought to market are not remarkable either for flavour, or cheapneis. Be-fides the inducements to lay out money already mentioned, the naturalift may add to his collection by an almoft endlefs variety of beautiful birds, and curious infects, which are to be bought at a reafonable price, well preferved, and neatly afibrted.
I (hall clofe my account of this place by informing flrangers, who may come here, that the Portugueze reckon their money in rees, an imaginary coin, twenty of which make a fin all copper piece called a vintin, and fixteen of theft laft a petack. Every piece is marked with the number of
rees
rees it is worth, fo that a miftake can hardly happen. Englifh filver coin has lorf. its reputation here, and dollars will be found preferable to any other money.
CHAP.
CHAP. VI.
the Pajfage from the Brazils to the Cape of Good Hope; with an Account of the tranf aSiions of the Fleet there,
September 17S7.
AUR pafiage from Rio de Janeiro to the Cape of Good Hope was equally profperous with that which had preceded it. We fleered away to the fouth-eaft, arid loft fight of the American coaft the day after our departure. From this time until the 13th of October, when we made the Cape, nothing remarkable occurred, except the lofs of a convict in the fhip I was on board, who unfortunately fell into the fea, and periihed in fpite of our efforts to fave him, by cutting adrift a life buoy and hoift> ing out a boat. During the pafiage, a flight dyfentery prevailed in fome of the fhips, but Was in no inftance mortal. We were at firft inclined to impute it to the water we tools on. kpa,rd at the Brazils, but as the effect was F very
(   34 )
very partial, fome other caufe was more probably the occafion of it.
At feven o'clock in the evening of the 3 3th of October, we call: anchor in Table Bay, and found many mips of different nations in the harbour.
Little can be added to the many accounts already publiffied of the Cape of Good Hope, though, if an opinion on the fubject. might be rifqued, the defcriptions they contain are too flattering. When contrafted with Rio de Janeiro it certainly fuffers in the companion. Indeed, we arrived at a time equally unfavourable for judging of the produce of the foil and the temper of its cultivators, who had fufTered confiderably, from a dearth that had happened the preceding feafon, and created a general fcarcity. Nor was the chagrin of thefe deprivations lefiened by the news daily arriving of the convulfions that Ihook the republic, which could not fail to make an imprefiion even on Patavian phlegm.
As
As a confiderable quantity of flour, and the principal part of the live ftock, which was to ftore our intended fettlement, were meant to be procured here, Governor Phillip loft no time in waiting on Mynheer Van Graaffe, the Dutch Governor, to requeft per-miffion (according to the cuftom of the place) to purchafe all that we ftood in need of. How far the demand extended, I know not, not Mynheer Van Graaffe's reafbns for complying with it in part only.   To this gentleman's political fentiments I confefs myfelf a ftranger, though I mould do his polite-nefs and liberality at his own table an injuf-tice, were I not to take this public opportunity of acknowledging them; nor can I refill, the opportunity which prefents itfelf, to inform my readers, in honor of M. Van Graaffe's humanity, that he has made repeated efforts to recover the unfortunate remains of the crew of the Grofvenor India-man, which was wrecked about five years ago on the coaft of Caffraria. This information was given me by Colonel Gordon, commandant of the Dutch troops at the Cape, whofe knowledge of the interior parts of this
F 2 coun-
( s« )
country furpafles that of any other mad, And I am forry to fay, that the Colonel ad* ded, thefe unhappy people were irrecoverably loft to the world and their friends, by being detained among the Caffres, the moft favage fet of brutes on earth.
His Excellency refides at the government houfe, in the Eafl India Company's garden. This laft is of considerable extent, and is planted chiefly with vegetables for the Dutch Indiamen which may happen to touch at the port. Some of the walks are extremely pleafant, from the made they afford, and the whole garden is very neatly kept. The regular lines interfering each other at right angles, in which it is laid out, will, never* thelefs, afford but little gratification to an Englishman, who has been ufed to contemplate the natural Style which distinguishes the pleaSure grounds of his own country. At the head of the center walks Stands a menagerie, on which, as well as the garden, many pompous eulogiums have been palled, though in my own judgement, considering the local advantages pollened by the
com-
(  37 )
company, it is poorly furnilhed both with animals and birds : a tyger, a zebra, fome fine oftriches, a caflbvvary, and the lovely crown-fowl, are among the mofl remarkable.
The table land, which Stands at the back of the town, is a black dreary looking mountain, apparently flat at top, and of more than eleven hundred yards in height. The gufts of wind which blow from it are violent to an excefs, and have a very unpleafant effect, by railing the dult in fuch clouds, as to render Stirring out of doors next to impoffible. Nor can any precaution prevent the inhabitants from being annoyed by it, as much within doors as without.
At length the wifhed-for day, on which the next effort for reaching the place of our destination was to be made, appeared. The uiorning was calm, but the land wind getting up about noon, on the 12th of November we weighed anchor, and foon left far behind every fcene of civilization and humanized
manized manners, to explore a remote and barbarous land ; and plant in it thofe happy arts, which alone constitute the pre-eminence and dignity of other countries.
The live animals we took on board on the public account from the Gape, for Stocking our projected colony, were, two bulls, three coWs, three hor'fes, forty-four Sheep, and, thirty-two hogs, befides goats, and a very large quantity of poultry of every kind.. A considerable addition to this was made by the private Stocks of the officers, who were, however, under a neceflity of circumfcribing their original intentions on this head very much, from the exceuive dearnefs of many of the articles. It will readily be believed, that few of the military found it convenient to pui chafe fh'eep, when hay to feed them coifs fixteen millings a hundred weight.
The boarding houfes on Shore, to which Strangers have recourfe, are more reafon-able than might be expected. For a dollar and a half per day we were wTell lodged,
2 and
and partook of a table tolerably fupplied in the French Style. Should a traveller's ftock of tea run fhort, it is a thoufand chances to one, that he will be able to replenish it here, at a cheaper rate than in England. He may procure plenty of arrack and white wine, alfo raifms, and (Jrie-d fruits of other forts. If he diflikes to live at a boarding houfe, he will find the markets Well ftored, and the price of butcher's meat and vegetables far from exceiSive.
Juft before the figlial for welghincr was made, a Ship, under American colours, entered the road, bound from Bofton, from whence fhe had failed one hundred and forty days, on a trading voyage to the Eaft Indies* In her route, fhe had been lucky enough to pick up feveral of the inferior officers and crew of the Harcourt Eaft-Indiaman, which fhip had been wrecked on one of the Cape de Verd iflands. The mafter, who appeared to be a man of fome information, on being told the destination of our fleet, gave it as his opinion, that if a reception could be fecu-
rcd.
red, emigrations would take place to New South Wales, not only from the old continent, but the new one, where the fpirit of adventure and thirft for novelty were e*» eeffivCi
CHAP.
t H A P. VII.
the Pajfage from the Cape of Good Hope to Botany Bay.
November, 1787.
TTTE had hardly cleared the land when a South-eaSt wind fet in, and, except at fhort intervals, continued to blow until the 19th of the month ; when we were in the latitude of 370 40/ fouth, and, by the time-keeper, in longitude n° 30' earl, fo that our distance from Botany Bay had in-creafed nearly an hundred leagues, fince leaving the Cape. As no appearance of a change in our favour feemed likely to take place, Governor Phillip at this time Signified his intention of Shifting his pennant from the Sirius to the Supply, and proceeding on his voyage without waiting for the reSt of the fleet, which was formed in two divisions* The firft confiding of three transports, known to be the beSt failors, was put under the command of a Lieutenant of the navy ; and
G the
the remaining three, with the victuallers, left in charge of Captain Hunter, of his Majefty's fhip Sirius. In the laft divifion was the veflel, in which the author of this narrative ferved. Various caufes prevented the feparation from taking place until the 25th, when feveral lawyers, carpenters, blackfmiths, and other mechanics, were ihifted from different, illips into the Supply, in order to facilitate his Excellency's intention of forwarding the necefTary buildings to be ere&ed at Botany Bay, by the time the reft of the fleet might be expected to arrive. Lieutenant Governor Rofs, and the Staff of the marine battalion, alfo removed from the Sirius into the Scarborough tranf-port, one of the fhips of the firft divifion, in order to afford every alii fiance which the public fervice might receive, by their being early on the fpot on which our future operations were to be conducted.
From this time a fucceflion of fair winds and pleafant weather correfponded to our eager defires, and on the 7th of January, 1788, the long wifhed for fhore of Vau
Diemen
Diemen gratified our ficrht. We made the laud at two o'clock in the afternoon, the very hour we expected to fee it from the lunar observations of Captain Hunter, whofe accuracy, as an aftronomer, and conduct as an officer, had infpired us with equal gratitude and admiration.
After fo long a confinement, on a fervice fo peculiarly difguftiug and trouble fome, it can-oiot be matter of furprife that we were overjoyed at the near profpect of a change of fcene. By funfet we had pafled between the rocks, which Captain Furneaux named the Mewftou and Swilly. The former bears a very clofe refemblance to the little ifland near Plymouth, whence it took its name ; its latitude is 430 48/ fouth, longitude 146° 25' eaft of Greenwich.
In running along fhore, we cart many an anxious eye towards the land, on which fo much of our future deftiny depended. Our diftance, joined to the hazinefs of the atmo-fphere, prevented us, however, from being able to difcover much. With our belt G 2 glaffes
glaffes we could fee nothing but hills or" a moderate height, cloathed with trees, to which fome little patches of white fand-itone gave the appearance of being covered with fhow. Many fires were obferved on the hills in the evening.
As noperfon in the fhip I was on board had been on this coaff. before, we confulted a little chart, published by Steele of the Mi-nories, London, and found it, in general, very correct; it would be more fo, were not the Mewfrone laid down at too great a diftance from the land, and one object made of the Eddyftone and Swilly, when, in fact, they are distinct. Between the two laft is an entire bed of impaSlable rocks, many of them above water. The latitude of the Eddyftone is 430 53!', longitude 147° 9/ ; that, of Swilly 43° 54' fouth, longitude 1470 3' eaSt of Greenwich,
In the night the we{terly wind, which had fo long befriended us, died away, and was fucceedcd by one from the north-caff. When day appeared we had loSt fight of the 2 land,
land, and did not regain it until the 19th, at only the diftance of 17 leagues from our defired port. The wind was now fair, the iky ferene, though a little hazy, and the temperature of the air delightfully pleafant: joy fparkled in every countenance, and congratulations iflued from every mouth. Ithaca itfelf was fcarcely more longed for by Ulyl-fes, than Botany Bay by the adventurers who had traverfed fo many thou land miles to take poflpffion of it.
" Heavily in clouds came on the dayn which ufhered in our arrival. To us it was " a great, an important day," though I hope the foundation, not the fall, of an empire will be dated from it.
On the morning of the 20th, by ten o'clock, the whole of the fleet had call: an^ chor in Botany Bay, where, to our mutual fatisfacYion, we found the Governor, and the firft divifion of tranfports. On inquiry, we heard, that the Supply had arrived on the 18th, and the tranfports only the preceding day.
Thus,
Thus, after a pafiage of exactly thirty-fix weeks from Portsmouth, we happily effected our arduous undertaking, with fuch a train of unexampled bleflings, as hardly ever attended a fleet in a like predicament. Of two hundred and twelve marines we loft only one; and of feven hundred and feventy-ftve convicts, put on board in England, but twenty-four perifhed in our route.   To what caufe arc we to attribute this unhoped for fuccefs ?   I wifh I could anivvcr to the liberal manner in which Government Supplied the'expedition.   But when the reader is told, that fome of the ncccflary articles allowed to Ships on a common pafiage to the Weft Indies,  were with-held from us ; that portable foup, wheat, and pickled vegetables were not allowed ; and that an inadequate quantity of eftence of malt was the only antifcorbutic iur>n!ied, his furprife will redouble at the remit of the voyage. For it mull be remembered, that the people thus feat out were not a Ship's company Starting with every advantage of health and good liy ing, which a ftate of freedom produces ; but the major part a miierable let of convicls,
emaciated
(  47 )
emaciated from confinement, and in want of cloaths, and almoff. every convenience to render 'fo long a pafiage tolerable. I beg leave, however, to fay, that the provifions ferved on board were good, and of a much fuperior quality to thofe ufually fupplied by contrad : they were furnilhed by MefTrs. Richards and Thorn, of Tower-flreet, London.
CIIA P.
C  II- A  P. IX,
Troth the Fleefs Arrival -at Botany Bay, to the Evacuation of it; and taking P'ojjejfion of Port Jackfon, Interviews with the Natives ; and an Account of the Country about Botany Bay.
January, 1788.
^^TE had fcarcely bid each other welcome on our arrival, when an expedition up the Bay was undertaken by the Governor and Lieutenant-Governor, in order to explore the nature of the country, and fix on a fpotto begin our operations upon. None, however, which could be deemed very eligible, being difcovered, his Excellency proceeded in a boat to examine the opening, to which Mr. Cook had given the name of Port Jackfon, on an idea that a flicker for (hipping within it might be found. The boat returned on the evening of the 23d, with fuch an account of the harbour and advantages attending the place, that it was
de,ter-
determined the evacuation of Botany Bay mould commence the next morning.
In confequence of this decifion, the few feamen and marines who had been landed from the fquadron, were inftantly reimbark-ed, and every preparation made to bid adieu to a port which had fo long been the fubjeef, of our converfation ; which but three days before we had entered with fo many fenti-ments of fatisfaclion ; and in which, as we had believed, fo many of our future hours were to be palled. The thoughts of removal banifhed fleep, fo that I rofe at the firfl dawn of the morning. But judge of my furprize on hearing from a ferjeant, who ran down almoft breathlefs to the cabin where I was dreilmg, that a fhip was feen off the harbour's mouth. At firfr. I only laughed, but knowing the man who fpeke to me to be of great veracity, and hearing him repeat his information, I flew upon deck, on which I had barely fet my foot, when the cry of " another fail" if ruck on my aftonifhed ear. Confounded by a thoufand ideas which arofe in my mind in an inftant, I fprang H upon
upon the barricado, and plainly defcricd two mips of considerable fize, Standing in for the mouth of the Bay. By this time the alarm had become general, and every one appeared loft in conjecture. Now they were Dutchmen Sent to difpoSTcfs us, and the moment after ftorefhips from England, with Supplies for the Settlement. The improbabilities which attended both theSc conclusions, were funk in the agitation of the moment. It was by Governor Phillip, that this myitery was at length unravelled, and the caufe of the alarm pronounced to be two French Ships, it was now recollected were on a voyage of difcovery in the Southern hemi-fphere. Thus were our doubts cleared up, and our apprehenfions baniShed; it was, however, judged expedient to poltpone our removal to Port Jackfon, until a complete confirmation of cur conjectures could be procured.
Had the fea breeze fct in, the Strange Ships would have been at. anchor in the Bay by eight o'clock in the morning, but the wind blowing out, they were driven by
a Strong
a Strong lee current to the Southward of the .port. On the following day they re-appeared in their former fituation, and a boat was fent to them, with a lieutenant of the navy in her, to offer afhftance, and point out the neceflary marks for entering the harbour. In the courfe of the day the officer returned, and brought intelligence that the mips were the Bouffole and Aftrolabe, fent out by order of the King of France, and under the command of Monfieur De Perroufe. The aftonifhment of the French at feeing us, had not equalled that we had experienced, for it appeared, that in the courfe of their voyage they had touched at Kamfchatka, and by that means learnt that our expedition was in contemplation. They dropped anchor the next morning, juft as we had got under weigh to work out of the Bay, fo that for the prefent nothing more than falutations could pafs between us.
Before I quit Botany Bay, I Shall relate  the  obieivations we   were enabled to make during our Short Slay there ; as well as thofe which our fubiequent virus H 2 to
to it from Port Jackfon enabled us to complete.
The Bay is very open, and greatly ex-pofed to the fury of the S. E. winds, which when they blow, caufe a heavy and dangerous fwell. It is of prodigious extent, the principal arm, which takes a S. W. direction, being not lefs, including its windings, than twenty-four miles from the capes which form the entrance, according to the report of the French officers, who took uncommon pains to furvey it. At the diflance of a league from the harbour's mouth is a bar, on which at low water, not more than fifteen feet are to be found. Within this bar, for many miles up the S. W. arm, is a haven, equal in every reflect to any hitherto known, and in which any number of mips might anchor, fecured from all winds. The country around far exceeds in richnefs of foil that about Cape Banks and Point Solander, though unfortunately they refemble each other in one refpedt, a Scarcity of frefh water.
We
We found die natives tolerably numerous as we advanced np the river, and even at the harbour's mouth we had reafon to conclude the country more populous than Mr. Cook thought it.   For on the Supply's arrival in the Bay on the 18th of the month, they were auembled on the beach of the fouth Shore, to the number of not lefs than forty perfons, Shouting and making many uncouth Signs and geflures.   This appearance whetted curioiity to its utmoff, but as prudence forbade a few people to venture wantonly among fo great a number, and a party of only Six men was obferved on the north more, the Governor immediately proceeded to land on that Side, in order to take poSief-fion of his new territory, and bring about an intercourfe between its old and new maf-tcrs.   The boat, in which his Excellency wTas, rowed up the harbour, clofe to the land, for Some distance ; the Indians keeping pace with her on the beach.    At laSl an officer in the boat made Signs of a want of water, which it was judged would indicate his wish of landing.   The natives directly comprehended what he wanted, and
pointed
pointed to a Spot where water could he procured : on which the boat was immediately pufhed in, and a landing took place. As on the event of this meeting might depend fo much of our future tranquillity, every delicacy on our fide was requisite. The Indians, though timorous, fhewed no figns of refentment at the Governor's going on ihore; an interview commenced, in which the conduct of both parties pleafed each other fo much, that the Strangers returned to their Ships with a much better opinion of the natives, than they had landed with ; and the latter feemed highly entertained with their new acquaintance, from whom they condefcended to accept of a looking-glafs, fome beads, and other toys. ;
Owing to the latenefs of our arrival, it was not my good fortune to go on Shore until three days after this had happened, when I went with a party to the South fide of the harbour, and had fcarcely landed five minutes, when we were met by a dozen Indians, naked as at the moment of their birth, walking along the beach.   Eager to
come
come to a conference, and yet afraid of giving offence, we advanced with caution towards them, nor would they, at firft, approach nearer to us than the diftance of fome paces. Both parties were armed; yet an attack feemcd as unlikely on their part, as we knew it to be on our own. I had at this time a little boy, of not more than feven years of age, in my hand. The child feemed to attract their attention very much, for they frequently pointed to him and fpoke to each other; and as he was not frightened, I advanced with him towards them, at the fame time baring his bofom and mewing the whitenefs of the fkin. On the cloaths being removed they gave a loud exclamation, and one of the party, an old man, with a long beard, hideoufly ugly, came clole to us. I bade my little charge not to be afraid, and introduced him to the acquaintance of this uncouth perfonage. The Indian, with great gentlenefs, laid his hand on the child's hat, and afterwards felt his cioaths, muttering to himfelf all the while. I found it necenary, however, by this time to fend away the child, as fuch a
clofe
clofe connection rather alarmed him, and in this, as the conelufion verified, I gave no offence to the old gentleman; Indeed it was but putting ourfelves on a par with them, as I had obferved from the firfT, that fome youths of their own, though confiderably older than the one with us, were kept back by the grown people. Several more now came up, to whom we made various pre-fents, but our toys feemed not to be regarded as very valuable ; nor would they for a long time make any returns to them, though before we parted, a large club, with a head almoft fufficicnt to fell an ox, was obtained in exchange for a looking-glafs. Thefe people feemed at a lofs to know (probably from our want of beards) of what fex we were, which having underflood, they burff into the molt immoderate fits of laughter, talking to each other at the fame time with fuch rapidity and vociferation as I had never before heard. After nearly an hour's converfation by Signs and geftures, they repeated feveral times the word iv/rarra, which lignlfics, begone, and walked away from us to the head of the Bay.
The
The natives being departed, we fet out to obferve the country, which,  on in-fpecTion, rather difappointed our hopes, being invariably fandy and unpromiiing for the purpofes of cultivation, though the trees and grafs flourish in great luxuriancy. Clofe to us was the fpring at which Mr. Cook watered, but we did not think the water very excellent, nor did it run freely.   In the evening we returned on board, not greatly pleafed with the latter part of our difcove-ries, as it indicated an increafe of thofe difficulties, which before feemed fumciently numerous.
Between this and our departure we had feveral more interviews with the natives, which ended in fo friendly a manner, that we began to entertain Strong hopes of bringing about a connection with them. Our firif. object was to win their affections, and our next to convince them of the Superiority We poiiefled: for without the latter, the former we knew would be of little importance. An officer one day prevailed on one of them to place a target, made of bark, I againft
againft a tree, which he fired at with a piftol, at the diftance of fome paces. The Indians, though terrified at the report, did not run away, but their affonifhment exceeded their alarm, on looking at the Shield which the ball had perforated.   As this produced a little fhynefs, the officer, to difli-pate their fears and remove their jealoufy, whiffled the air of Malbrooke, which they appeared highly charmed with, and imitated him with equal pleafure and readinefs. I cannot help remarking here, what I was afterwards told by Monfieur De Perroufe, that the natives of California, and throughout all the iflands of the Pacific Ocean, and in Short wherever he had been, feemed equally touched and delighted with this little plaintive air.
CHAP.
CHAP. IX.
the taking Pojfejfion of Port Jackfon. With the Dijembarkation of the Marines and Convicls.
January, 1788,
U R pafiage to Port Jackfon took up but few hours, and thofe were fpent far from unpleafantly. The evening was bright, and the profpect before us fuch as might juftify fanguine expectation. Having pafled between the capes which form its entrance, we found ourfelvcs in a port fu-perior, in extent and excellency, to all we had feen before. We continued to run up the harbour about four miles, in a wefterly direction, enjoying the luxuriant profpect of its Shores, covered with trees to the water's edge, among which many of the Indians were frequently feen, till we arrived at a fmall Snug cove on the fouthern fide, on whofe I 2 banks
( ft )
banks the plan of our operations was def-tined to commence.
The landing of a. part of the marines and convicts took place the next day, and on the foil owing, the remainder was diSembatked. Bufmefs now fat on every brow, and the fcene, to an indifferent fpeclator, at leifure to contemplate it, would have been highly piclurefque and amuiing. In one place, a party cutting down the woods ; a Second, letting up a blackfmith's forge ; a third, dragging along a load of ftones or provifions; here an officer pitching his marquee, with a detachment of troops parading on one fide of him, and a cook's fire blazing up on the other. Through the unwearied diligence of thofe at the head of the different depart-ments, regularity was, however, foon introduced, and, as fir as the unfettled State of matters would allow, confufion gave place to iyftem.
Into the head of the cove, on which our cftablifhment is fixed, runs a Small Stream of frefh water, which - Serves to divide the
adjacent
adjacent country to a little diftance, in the direction of north and fouth. On the eaft-ern fide of this rivulet the Governor fixed his place of refidence, with a large body of convicts encamped near him ; and on the the weftern fide was difpofed the remaining part of thefe peole, near the marine encampment. From this lafl two guards, confining of two fubalterns, as many ferjeants, four corporals, two drummers, and forty-two private men, under the orders of a Captain of the day, to whom all reports were made, daily mounted for the public Security, with fuch directions to ufe force, in cafe of ncceflity, as left no room for thofe who were the object of the order, but to remain peaceable, or pcriih by the bayonet.
As the ftraggHng of the convicts was not only a defcrtion from the public labour, but might be attended with ill .coiuequenees to the fettlemcnt, in cafe of their meeting the natives, every care was taken to prevent it. The Provolt Martial with his men was ordered to patrole the country around, and
the
the convicts informed, that the fevered punifhment would be inflicted on tranfgref-fors. In fpite, however, of all our precautions, they foon found the road to Botany Bay, in vifits to the French, who would gladly have difpenfed with their company.
But as feverity alone was known to be inadequate at once to chaltize and reform, no opportunity was omitted to anure the convicts, that by their good behaviour and fubmiflive deportment, every claim to prefent diftinction and future favour v/as to be earned. That this caution was not attended with all the good effects which were hoped from it, I have only to lament; that it operated in fome cafes is indif-putable ; nor will a candid and humane mind fail to confider and allow for the Situation thefe unfortunate beings fo peculiarly flood in. While they were on board Ship, the two fexes had been kept moft rigoroufly apart; but, when landed, their Separation became impracticable, and would have been, perhaps, wrong. Licentiouf-
nefs
iiefs was the unavoidable confequence, and their old habits of depravity were beginning to recur. What was to be attempted ? To prevent their intercourfe was impoifible ; and to palliate its evils only remained. Marriage was recommended, and fuch advantages held out to thofe who aimed at reformation, as have greatly contributed to the tranquillity of the fettlement.
On the Sunday after our landing divine fervice was performed under a great tree, by the Rev. Mr. Johnfon, Chaplain of the Settlement, in the prefence of the troops and convicts, whofe behaviour on the occasion was equally regular and attentive. In the courfe of our pafiage this had been repeated every Sunday, while the mips were in port; and in addition to it, Mr. Johnfon had furnifhed them with books, at once tending to promote inltru&ioii and piety.
The Indians for a little while after our arrival paid us frequent vifits, but in a few days they were obferved to be more Shy of our company.   From what caufe their dif-
taSle
tafte arofe wc never could trace, as we had made it.our Study, on thefe occasions, to treat them with kindncfs, and load them with prefents. No quarrel had happened, and we had nattered ourfelves, from Governor Phillip's firit reception among them, that fuch a connection might be eflabliihcd as would tend to the intereft of both parties. It feems, that on that occafion, they not only received our people with great cordiality, but fo far acknowledged their authority as to fubmit, that a boundary, during their firft interview, might be drawn on the fand, which they attempted not to infringe, and appeared to be fatisiied with.
CIIA IK
G H A P. X.
February, 1788.
Reading of the CommiJJions, and taking Poffeffion of the Settlement, inform. With an Account of the Courts of Law, and Mode of adminifering Public Juflice in this Country.
£^WING to the multiplicity of preffing bufinefs neceflary to be performed immediately after landing, it was found impof-fible to read the public commiuions and take pofleffion of the colony in form, until the 7th of February. On that day all the officers of guard took poft in the marine batta* ' Hon, which was drawn up, and marched off the parade with mulic playing, and colours flying, to an adjoining ground, which had been cleared for the occafion, whereon the convicts were aflembled to hear His Majefty's commiflion read, appointing his Excellency Arthur Phillip, Efq. Governor and Captain General in and over the territory of New K South
( « )
South Wales, and its dependencies ; toge* ther with the Act of Parliament for eftablifh-ing trials by law within the fame ; and the patents under the Great Seal of Great Bri* tain, for holding the civil and criminal courts of judicature, by which all cafes of life and, death, as well as matters of property, were to be decided. When the Judge Advocate had fTnifhed reading, his Excellency ad-drefTed himfelf to the convicts in a pointed and judicious fpeech, informing them of his future intentions, which were, invariably to cheriih and render happy thofe who mewed a difpolition to amendment; and to let the rigour of the law take its courfe againfr. fuch as might dare to tranfgrefs the bounds prefcribed. At the clofe three vol-lies were fired in honour of the occafion, and the battalion marched back to their parade, where they were reviewed by the Governor, who was received with all the honours due to his rank* Hfs Excellency was afterwards pleafed to thank them, in public orders, for their behaviour from the time of their embarkation ; and to afk the officers to partake of a cold collation, at
which
(  «7 1
which it is fcarce neceflary to oblcrve, that many loyal and public toafts were drank in commemoration of the day.
In the Governor's commifnon, the extent of this authority is defined to reach from the latitude of 430 49' fouth, to the latitude of io° 37' fouth, being the northern and fouthern extremities of the continent of New Holland. It commences again at 135th degree of longitude eaft of Greenwich, and proceeding in an eafterly direction, includes all iflands within the limits of the above fpecified latitudes in the Pacific ocean. By this partition it may be fairly prefumed, that every Source of future litigation between the Dutch and us will be for ever cut off, as the difcoveries of En glim navigators alone are comprized in this territory,
Nor have Government been more back* ward in arming Mr. Phillip with plenitude of power, than extent of dominion. No mention is made of a Council to be appointed, fo that he Is left to act entirely, from his own judgement. And as no Slated K 2 time
C  68 )
time of anembling the Courts of JuSlice is pointed out, Similar to the affixes and gaol deliveries of England, the duration of im-prifonment is altogether in his hands. The power of Summoning General Courts, Martial to meet he is alfo inverted with, but the infertion in the marine mutiny act, of a Smaller number of officers than thirteen being able to compofe fuch a tribunal, has. been neglected: fo that a military court. Should detachments be made from headquarters, or ficknefs prevail, may not always be found practicable to be obtained, unlcfs the number of officers, at prefent in the Settlement, mall be increafed.
Should the Governor fee caufe, he is enabled to grant pardons to offenders convicted, " in all cafes whatever, treafon and wilful
murder excepted," and even in thefe, has authority to Slay the execution of the law, until the King's pleafure Shall be fignified. In cafe of the Governor's death, the Lieutenant Governor takes his place ; and on his dernife, the fenior officer on the fpot is authorised to aflume the reins of power.
Not-
Notwithstanding the promifes made 011 ©ne fide, and the forbearance (hewn on the pother, joined to the impending rod of jufi* tice, it was with infinite regret that everyone law, in four days afterwards, the ncccf-fity of afTembling a Criminal Court, which Was accordingly convened by warrant from the Governor, and confuted of the Judge Advocate, who prefidcd, three naval, and three marine officers.
As the conftitution of this court is altogether new in the Britiih annals, I hope my reader will not think me prolix in the de-fcription I am about to give of it. The number of members, including the Judge Advocate, is limited, by Act of Parliament, to fevcn, who are expreflly ordered to be officers, either of His Majeity's lea or land forces.   The court being met, completely arrayed and armed as at a military tribunal, the Judge Advocate proceeds to adminjfter the ufual oath taken by jurymen in England to each member; one of whom afterwards fwears him in a. like manner.   This ceremony being adjuitcd, the crime laid to the
pri-
prifoner's charge is read to him, and the queftion of Guilty, or Not guilty, put. No law officer on the fide of the crown being appointed, (for I prefume the head of the court ought hardly to confider himfelf in that light, notwithstanding the title he bears) to profecute the criminal is left entirely to the party, at whofe fuit he is tried. All the witneSTes are examined on oath, and the decision is directed to be given according to the laws of England, " or as nearly as may be, allowing for the circum-" Stances and Situation of the fetdement," by ** a majority of votes, beginning with the youngeSt member, and ending with the president of the court. In cafes, however, of a capital nature, no verdict can be given, tinlefs five, at leaSt, of tjie feven members prefent concur therein. The evidence on both fides being finished, and the prifoner*s defence heard, the court is cleared, and oil the judgement being fettled, is thrown open again, and fentence pronounced. During the time the court fits, the place in which it is affembled is directed to be Surrounded by a guard under arms, and admiffion to
every
C n )
every one who may choofe to enter it, granted. Of late, however, our colonifls are fuppofed to be in fuch a train of Subordination, as to make the prefenCe of fb large a military force unnecenary; and two centineis, in addition to the Provoft, Martial, are confidered as fufEcient.
It would be as needlefs, as impertinent* to anticipate the reflections which will arife m reading the above account, wherein a regard to accuracy only has been confultecL By comparing it with the mode of adminif-tering juftice in the Englifh courts of law, it will be found to differ in many points very enentially. And if we turn our eyes to ths ufage of military tribunals, it no lefs departs from the cufloms obferved in them. Let not the novelty of it, however, prejudice any one fo far as to difpute its efficacy, and the neceffity of the cafe which gave it birth.
The court, whofe meeting is already fpoken °f» proceeded to the trial of three convicts, one of whom was convicted of having Struck a marine with a cooper's adze, and other-2 wife
wife tahavmg'iri a very riotous and fcanda-lous manner, for which he was fentenced to receive one hundred and mtf laihes, being I 1 mailer pttnifnmenf than a foldier in a like* cafe Would have fullered from the ^increment of a court martial. A fecond for having committed a petty-theft, was ferit to a fmall barren ifland, and kept there on bread and water only, for a week. And the third was fentenced to receive fifty la/hes, but was recommended by the court to tire Governor, and forgiven.
. Hitherto, however, [February] nothing of a very atrocious nature had appeared. But the day was at hand, on winch the violation of public fecurity could no longer be reilrained, by the infliction of temporary puniihment. A let of defperate and hardened villains, leagued thcmfelvcs for the purp*oies of depredation, and, as it generally happens, had art enough to perfuade fome others lefs'deeply verfed in iniquity, to be the inthuments for carrying it on. Fortunately the porgrefs of thele mif-creants wras not of long duration. They
s were
were detected in Stealing a large quantity of provifions at the time of ifliiing them. And on being apprehended, one of the tools of the fuperiors impeached the reft, and difclo-fed the fchemc. The trial came on the 28th of the month, and of four who were arraigned for the offence, three were condemned to die, and the fourth to receive a very fevere Corporal punifhment. In hopes that his lenity would not be abufed, his Excellency was, however, pleafed to order one only for execution, which took place a little before fun-fet the fame day. The name of the unhappy wretch was, Thomas Barret, an old and defperate offender, who died with that hardy fpirit, which too often is found in the worft and moft abandoned clafsof men ; during the execution the battalion of marines was under arms, and the whole of the convicts obliged to be prefent. The two afibciates of the fufferer were ordered to be kept clofe prifoners, until an eligible place to banifh them to could he fixed on ; as were alfo two more, who on the following day were condemned to die for a fimilar offence.
L Befides
Befides the Criminal court, there is an inferior one, compofed of the Judge Advocate, and one or more juftices of the peace, for the trial of fmall mifdemeanours. This court is likewife empowered to decide all law fuits, and its verdict is final, except where the fum in difpute amounts to more than three hundred pounds, in which cafe an appeal to England can be made from its decree. Should necefhty warrant it, an Admiralty court, of which Lieutenant Governor Rofs is judge, can alfo be fummoned, for the trial of offences committed on the high feas.
From being unwilling to break the thread of my narrative, I omitted to note in its proper place the failing of the Supply, Lieut. Ball, on the 15th of the month, for Norfolk Ifland, which the Governor had in-ftrudtions from the miniftry to take poffef-fion of. Lieut. King of the Sirius was fent as fuperintendant and commandant of this place, and carried with him a furgeon, a midfhipman, a fawyer, a ^ weaver, two ma-i rines,
rines, and Sixteen convicts, of whom fix were women. He was alfo Supplied with a certain number of live animals to ftock the ifland, befides garden feeds, grain, and Other requisites.
CHAP.
CHAP. XI.
A Defeription of the loathes of New South Wales, and our Tfranfablions with. them.
J DOUBT not my readers will be as glad as I feel myfelf, to conclude the dull detail of the lafr. chapter. If they plcafe, they may turn from the fubtle intricacies of the law, to contemplate the (imple undifguifed workings of nature, in her molt artlefs colouring.
I have already faid, we had been but very few days at Port Jackfon, when an alteration in the behaviour of the natives was perceptible; and I with I could add, that a longer refidence in their neighbourhood had introduced a greater degree of cordiality and intermixture between the old, and new, lords of the foil, than at the day on which this publication is dated fubfiffs.
From
From their eafy reception of us in the be<t ginning, many were induced to call in question the accounts which Mr. Cook had given of this people.   That celebrated navigator, we were willing to believe, had fome-how by his conduct offended them, which prevented the intercourfe that would other-wife have taken place.   The refult, however, of our repeated endeavours to induce them to come among us has been fuch as to confirm me in an opinion, that they either fear or defpife us too much, to be anxious for a clofer connection.   And I beg leave at once, to apprize the reader, that all I can here, or in any future part of this work, relate with fidelity of the natives of New South Wales, mufl be made up of detached ob-fervations, taken at different times, and not from a regular feries of knowledge of the cuftoms and manners of a people, with whom opportunities of communication are fo fcarce, as to have been feldom obtained-
In their perfons, they are far from being a {tout race of men, though nimble, fpright-
ly, and vigorous. The deficiency of one of the fore teeth of the upper jaw, mentioned by Dampier, we have feen in almoif. the whole of the men; but their organs of light, lb far from being defective, as that author mentions thofe of the inhabitants of the wef-tern fide of the continent to be, are remarkably quick and piercing. Their colour, Mr. Cook is inclined to think rather a deep chocolate, than an abfolute black, though he confeffcs, they have the appearance of the latter, which he attributes to the greafy filth their Ikins are loaded with. Of their want of cleanlinefs we have had fufficient proofs, but I am of opinion, all the warning in the wrorld would not render them two degrees lefs black than an African negro. At fome of our firft interviews, we had feveral droll inftances of their miftaking the Africans we brought with us,for their own countrymen,
Notwithfhnding the difregard they have invariably Shewn for all the finery we could deck them with, they are fond of adorning themfelves with fears, which increafe their natural hideoufnefs.   It i,s hardly poffible to
fee
C  79 )
fee any thing in human fhape more ugly, than one of thefe favages thus fcarified, and farther ornamented with a fifh bone Struck through the griftle of the nofe. The cuftom of daubing themfelves with white earth is alfo frequent among both fexes : but, unlike the inhabitants of the iflands in the Pacific Ocean, they rejed the beautiful feathers which the birds of their country afford.
Exclufiveof their weapons of offence, and a few ftone hatchets very rudely faftiioned, their ingenuity is confined to manufacturing fmall nets, in which they put the fifli they catch, and to fifh-hooks made of bone, neither of which are unfkilfuliy executed. On many of the rocks are alio to be found delineations of the figures of men and birds, very poorly cut.
Of the ufe or benefit of cloathing, thefe people appear to have no comprehenfion, though their fufrerings from the climate they live in, Strongly point out the necefilty of a covering from the rigour of the feafons.
Both
Both fexes, and thofe of all ages, are invariably found naked* But it muff not: be inferred from this, that cuftom fo inures them to the changes of the elements, as to make them bear with indifference the extremes of heat and cold ; for we have had vifible and repeated proofs, that the latter affects them fevercly, when they are feen Shivering, and huddling themfelves up in heaps in their huts, or the caverns of the rock?, until a fire can be kindled.
Than thefe huts nothing more rude in construction, or deficient in conveniencyj can be imagined. They confift only of pieces of bark laid together in the form of an oven, open at one end, and very low,' though long enough for a man to lie at full length in. There is realbn, however, to believe, that they depend leis on them for Shelter, than on the caverns with which the rocks abound.
To cultivation of the ground they are utter Strangers, and wholly depend for food on* the few fruits they gather ; the roots they
dig
dig up in the fwamps; and the fiSh they pick up along Shore, or contrive to Strike from their canoes with Spears. Fifhing, indeed, feems to engrofs nearly the whole of their time, probably from its forming the chief part of a fubfiftence, which, obferva-tion has convinced us, nothing Short of the molt painful labour, and unwearied aSft-duity can procure. When SifTi are fcarce, which frequently happens, they often watch the moment of our hauling the Seine, and have more than once been known to plunder its contents, in fpite of the opposition of thofe on the fpot to guard it: and this even after having received a part of what had been caught. The only refource at thefe times is to Shew a mufquet, and if the bare fight is not fufficient, to Sire it over their heads, which has feldom failed of difperSing them hitherto, but how long the terror which it excites may continue is doubtful.
The canoes in which they fiSh are as defpicable as their huts, being nothing more than a large piece of bark tied up at both ends with virtes.   Their dexterous manage-M ment
ment of them, added to the fwiftnefs with which they paddle, and the boldnefs that leads them feveral miles in the open fea, are, neverthelefs, highly deferving of admiration. A canoe is feldom feen without a fire in it, to drefs the fifh by, as foon as caught: fire they procure by attrition.
From their manner of difpofmg of thofe who die, which will be mentioned hereafter, as well as from every other obfervation, there feems no reafon to fuppofe thefe people cannibals; nor do they ever eat animal fubftances in a raw ftate, unlefs prefled by extreme hunger, but indifcriminately broil them, and their vegetables, on a fire, which renders thefe laft an innocent food, though in their raw ftate many of them are of a poifonous quality : as a poor convict who unguardedly eat of them experienced, by falling a facriflce in twenty-four hours afterwards. If bread be given to the Indians, they chew and fpk it out again, feldom ehoofing to fwallow it. Salt beef and pork they like rather better, but fpirits they never could be brougnt to taffe a fecond time.
i The
The only domeftic animal they have is the dog, which in their language is called Dingo, and a good deal refembles the fox dog of England. Thefe animals are equally fhy of us, and attached to the natives. One of them is now in the pofTenion of the Governor, and tolerably well reconciled to his new maf-ter. As the Indians fee the did ike of the dogs to us, they are fometimes mifchievousenough to fet them on fingle perfons whom they chance to meet in the woods. A furly fellow was one day out mooting, when the natives attempted to divert themfelves in this maimer at his expence. The man bore the teazing and gnawing of the dog at his heels for fome time, but apprehending at length, that his patience might embolden them to ufe ffill farther liberties, he turned round and mot poor Dingo dead on the fpot : the owners of him fet off with the utmoif. expedition.
There is no part of the behaviour of thefe people, that has puzzled us more, than that which relates to their women, Comparatively fpeaking we have feen but few of them, and thofe have been fome-M \ times
times kept back with every Symptom of jealous fenfibility; and fometimes offered with every appearance of courteous familiarity. Cautious, however, of alarming the feelings of the men on fo tender a point, we have conftantly made a rule of treating the females with that distance and referve, which we judged mofl likely to remove any impreffion they might have received of our intending ought, which could give offence on fo de-licate a fubject. And fo fuccefsful have our endeavours been, that a quarrel on this head has in no inftance, that I know of, happened. The tone of voice of the women, which is pleaiingly foft and feminine, forms a finking contrail to the rough guttural pronunciation of the men. Of the other charms of the' ladies I mail be iilent, though juflice obliges me to mention, that, in the opinion of fome amongfl us, they Shew a degree of timidity and bafhfulnefs, which are, perhaps, infeparable from the female character in its rudefl flate. It is not a little Singular, that the cuSlom of cutting off die two lower-joints of the little finger of the left hand, obferved in the Society Iflands, is found
here
here among the women, who have for the moft part undergone this amputation. Hitherto we have not been able to trace out the caufe of this uiage. At firft we fup-pofed it to be peculiar to the married women, or thofe who had borne children ; but this conclufion muff have been erroneous, as we have no right to believe that celibacy prevails in any inftarice, and fome of the oldeft of the women are without this distinction ; and girls of a very tender age are marked by it.
On firSt fetting foot in the country, we were inclined to hold the fpears of the natives very cheap. Fatal experience has, however, convinced us, that the wound inflicted by this weapon is not a trivial one; and that the Skill of the Indians in throwing it, is far from defpicable. BeSides more than a dozen convicts who have unaccountably difappeared, we know that two, who were employed as rufh cutters up the harh#ur, were (from what caufe we are yet ignorant) moft dreadfully mangled and butchered by the natives.    A fpear had paSfed entirely
through
( «s )
through the thickeft part of the body of one of them, though a very robuft man, and the fkull of the other was beaten in. Then-tools were taken away, but fome provisions which they had with them at the time of the murder, and their cloaths, were left untouched, In addition to this misfortune, two more convicts, who were peaceably engaged in picking of greens, on a fpot very remote from that where their comrades fuf-fered, were unawares attacked by a party of Indians, and before they could effect their efcape, one of them was pierced by a fpear in the hip, after which they knocked him down, and plundered his cloaths. The poor wretch, though dreadfully wounded% made Shift to crawl off, but his companion was carried away by thefe barbarians? and his fate doubtful, until a foldier, a few days afterwards, picked up his jacket and hat in a native's hut, the latter pierced through by a fpean We have found that thefe fpcars are not made invariably alike, ibme of them being barbed like a filh gig, and others limply pointed. In repairing them they are no lefs dexterous than in
throw-
throwing them. A broken one being given hy a gentleman to an Indian, he inStantly matched up an oyfter-Shell, and converted it with his teeth into a tool, with which he prefently faihioned the fpear, and rendered it fit for ufe : in performing this operation, the fole of his foot ferved him as a work-board. Nor are their weapons of offence confined to the fpear only, for they have befides long wooden fwords, ihaped like a fabre, capable of inflicting a mortal wound, and clubs of an immenfe Size. Small targets, made of the bark of trees, are like-Wife now and then to be feen among them.
From circumftances which have been ob-Served, we have Sometimes been inclined to believe thefe people at war with each other. They have more than once been feen aSlem-hled, as if bent on an expedition. An offi- v cer one day met fourteen of them marching along in a regular Indian file through the woods, each man armed with a fpear in his right hand, and a large Stone in his left: at their head appeared a chief, who was distinguished by being painted.   Though in the,
pro-
proportion of five to one of our people they pafled peaceably on.
That their Skill in throwing the fpear fometimes enables them to kill the kangaroo we have no right to doubt, as a long fplin-ter of this weapon was taken out of the thigh of one of thefe animals, over which the flefh had completely clofed ; but we have never difcovered that they have any method of enSharing them, or that they know any other beafts but the kangaroo and dog. Whatever animal is Shewn them, a dog excepted, they call kangaroo: a Strong prefumption that the wild animals of the country are very few.
Soon after our arrival at Port Jackfon, I was walking out near a place where I ob-ferved a party of Indians, bufily employed in looking at fome Sheep in an inclofure, and repeatedly crying out, Kangaroo, kangaroo ! As this feemed to afford them plea-furc, I was willing to increafe it by pointing out the horfes and cows, which were at no great distance.   But unluckily, at the
moment,
moment, fome female convicts, employed near the place, made their appearance, and all my endeavours to divert their attention from the ladies became fruitlefs. They attempted not, however, to offer them the leaf! degree of violence or injury, but flood at the diflance of feveral paces, exprefling very Significantly the manner they were at* traded.
It would be trefpaffing on the reader's in* diligence were I to impofe on him an account of any civil regulations, or ordi-» nances, which may poffibly exiSt among this people. I declare to him, that I know not of any, and that excepting a little tributary refpect which the younger part appear to pay thofe more advanced in years, I never could obferve any degrees of Subordination among them. To their religious rites and opinions I am equally a {hanger. Had an opportunity offered of feeing the ceremonies obferved at difpofing of the dead, perhaps, fome infight. might have been gained ; but all that we at prefent know with certainty is, that they burn the corpfe, and afterwards
N heap
C 90 )
heap up the earth around it, fomewhat in the manner of the fmall tumuli, found in many counties of England.
I have already hinted, that the country is more populous than it was generally believed to be in Europe at the time of our failing. But this remark is not meant to be extended to the interior parts of the continent, which there is every reafon to conclude from our refearches, as well as from the manner of living practifed by the natives, to be uninhabited,. It appears as if fome of the Indian families confine their fociety and connections within their own pale : but that this cannot always be the cafe we know; for on the north-weft arm of Botany Bay ftands a village, which contains more than a dozen houfes, and perhaps five times that number of people; being the moft confiderable efta-blifhment that we are acquainted with in the country. As a ftriking proof, befides, of the numeroufnefs of the natives, I beg leave to xtate, that Governor Phillip, when on an excurfion between the head of this harbour and that of Botany Bay, once fell
in
in With a party, which confiSted of more than three hundred perfons, two hundred and twelve of whom were men: this happened only on the day following the murder of the two convict ruSh cutters, before noticed, and his Excellency was at the very time in fearch of the murderers, on whom, could they have been found, he intended to inflict a memorable and exemplary punishment. The meeting was unexpected to both parties, and, considering the critical fituation of affairs, perhaps not very pleating to our Side, whith ConfiSted but of twelve perfons, until the peaceable difpofition of the Indians was manifeSt.   After the Strictest fearch the Governor was obliged to return without having gained any information.   The laudable perfeverance of his Excellency to throw every light oil this unhappy and mysterious bufinefs did not, however, flop here, for he instituted the moSt rigorous inquiry to find out, if poSrible, whether the convicts had at any time ill treated or killed any of the natives ; and farther, ifliied a proclamation, offering the molt tempting of all rewards, a ftate of freedom, to him who
N 2 Should
Should point out the murderer, in cafe Such an one exifted.
I have thus impartially Stated the Situation of matters, as they Stand while I write* between the natives and us; that greater progrefs in attaching them to us has not been made, I have only to regret ; but that all ranks of men have tried to effect it, by every reafonable effort from which fuccefs might have been expected, I can teftify; nor can I omit faying, that in the higher Stations this has been eminently confpicuous. The public orders of Gover^ nor Phillip have invariably tended to promote fuch a behaviour on our fide, as was moSt likely to produce this much wifhed-for event. To what caufe then are we to attribute the diftance which the accomplishment of it appears at ? I anfwer, to the fickle, jealous, wavering difpoiition of the people we have to deal with, who, like all other Savages, are either too indolent, too indifferent, or too fearful to form an attachment on eafy terms, with thofe who differ in habits and manners fo widely from themfelves. Before I clofe the fubject, I cannot, however,
feVeTv omit to relate the following ludicrous adventure^ which pbnibly may be of greater Ufe in effecting what we have fo much at heart, than all our endeavours*
Some young gentlemen belonging to the Sirius one day met a native, an old man, in the woods ; he had a beard of confiderable length, which his new acquaintance gave him to understand, by Signals, they would rid him of, if he pleafed; Streaking their chins, and Shewing him the fmoothuefs of them at the Same time ; at length the old Indian Confented, and one of the youngsters taking a penknife frdm his pocket* and making ufe of the beft Substitute for lather he could find, performed the operation with great fuccefs, and, as it proved, much to the liking of the old man, who in a few days after repofed a confidence in us, of which we had hitherto known no example, by paddling alou^-fide the Sirius in his canoe, and pointing to his beard. Various arts were ineffectually tried to induce him to enter the Ship ; but as he Continued to decline the invitation, a barber was fent down into
the
the boat along-fide the canoe, from whence, leaning over the gunnel, he complied with the wifh of the old beau, to his infinite fatisfadtion. In addition to the confluences which our fanguine hopes led us to expect from this dawning of cordiality, it affords proof, that the beard is considered by this people more as an incumbrance than a mark of dignity.
C HAP.
CHAP. XII,
the Departure of the French from Botany Bay; and the Return of the Supply from Norfolk Ifland ; with a Difcovery made by Lieutenant Ball on his Pajagc to it.
March 1783.
ABOUT the middle of the month our good friends the French departed from Botany Bay, in profecution of their voyage. During their flay in that port, the officers of the two nations had frequent opportunities of teflifying their mutual regard by vi-fits, and every interchange of friendship and efleem. Thefe fhips failed from France, by order of the King, on the iff of Augufl, 1785, under the command of Monfieur De Perroufe, an officer whofe eminent qualifications, we had reafon to think, entitle him to fill the highefl Stations. In England particularly, he ought long to be remembered with admiration and gratitude, for the humanity which marked his conduct, when % ordered
ordered to deftroy our fettlement at Hud*. fon*s Bay, in the laft warf His fecond in command was the Chevalier Clonard, an officer alio of diftinguiihed merit,
In the courfe of the voyage thefe (hips had been fo unfortunate as to lofe a boat, with many men and officers in her, off the weft of California ; and afterwards met with an accident ftill more to be regretted, at an ifland in the Pacific Ocean, difcovered by Monfieur. Bougainville, in the latitude of 14° 19/ fouth, longitude 1730 3' 20" eaft of Paris, Here they had the misfortune to. have no lefs than thirteen of their crews» among whom was the officer at that time fecond in command, cut off by the natives, and many more defperate!y wounded. To what caufe this cruel event was to be attributed, they knew not, as they were about to quit the ifland after having lived with rite Indians in the greatefl harmony for feveral weeks ; and exchanged, during the time, their European commodities for the produce of the place, which they defcribe as filled with a race of people remarkable for beauty
and.
t 97 )
and comelinefs; and abounding in refreih* ments of all kinds*
It was no lefs gratifying to an Englifhear, than honourable to Moniieur De Perroufe, to witnefs the feeling manner in which he always mentioned the name and talents of Captain Cook. That illuflrious circumnavigator had, he faid, left nothing to thole who might follow in his track to defcribe, or fill up. As I found, in the courfe of converfation, that the French fhips had touched at the Sandwich Hands, I alked M. De Perroufe what reception he had met with there. His anfwer deferves to be known : *' During the whole of our voyage " in the South Seas, the people of the Sand-" wich Hands were the only Indians who 44 never gave us caufe of complaint. They " furnilhed us liberally with provilions, and " adminiilered cheerfully to all our wants." It may not be improper to remark, that Owhyee was not one of the iflands vifited by this gentleman.
O In
( 98 J
In die fhort flay made by thefe (hips afc Botany Bay, an Abbe, one of the naturalifr.9 on board, died, and was buried on the north Chore. The French had hardly departed, when the natives pulied down a fmall board, which had been placed over the fpot where the corpfe was interred, and defaced every thing around. On being informed of it, the Governor fent ] a party over with orders to affix a plate of copper on a tree near the place, with the following in-fcription on it, which is a copy of what was written on the board:
Hie jacet L. RECEVEtJR,
E. F. F. minnibus Gallic, Sacerdos, Phy-ficus, in circumnavigatione mundi, Duce De La Perroufe.
Obiit die i y° Fcbruarii, anno 1788.
This mark of refpeclful attention was more particularly due, from M. De Perroufe having, when at Kamfchatka, paid a fimi-lar tribute of gratitude to the memory of
Captain
Captain Clarke, whofe tomb was found in nearly as ruinous a {late as that of the Abbe.
Like ourfelves, the French found it ne-» ceflary, more than once, to chaftife a fpirit of rapine and intrufion which prevailed a-mong the Indians around the Bay. The menace of pointing a mufquet to them was frequently ufed ; and in one or two inftances it was fired off, though without being attended with fatal confequeiices. Indeed the French commandant, both from a regard to the orders of his Court, as well as to our quiet and fecurity, (hewed a moderation and forbearance on this head highly becoming.
On the 20th of March, the Supply arrived from Norfolk Ifland, after having fafely landed Lieutenant King and his little garriibn. The pine-trees growing there are defcribed to be of a growth and height fupe-rior, perhaps, to any in the world. But the difficulty of bringing them away will not, be eafily furmounted, from the badnefs and danger of the landing place. After the moft exacl; fearch, not a fingle plant of the New O 1 £ea^
Zealand flax could be found, though we had been taught to believe it abounded there.
Lieutenant Ball, in returning to Port Jackfon, touched at a fmall ifland in latitude 310 36' fouth, longitude 1590 4/ eaSl of Greenwich, which he had been fortunate enough to difcover on his paffage to Norfolk, and to which he gave the name of Lord Howe's Ifland. It is entirely- without inhabitants, or any traces of any having ever been there. But it happily abounds in what will be infinitely more importance to the fettlers on New South Wales : green turtle of the fineft kind frequent it in the fummer feafon. Of this Mr. Ball gave us fome very handfome and acceptable Specimens on his return. Befides turtle, the ifland is well flocked with birds, many of them fo tame as to be knocked down by the feamen with flicks. At the diflance of four leagues from Lord Howe's Ifland, and in latitude3i° 30/ fouth, longitude 1590 8' eaft, Stands a remarkable rock, of confiderable height, to which Mr. Ball gave the name of Ball's Pyramid, from the Shape it bears.
While
( 101 )
While the Supply was abfent, Governor Phillip made an excurfion to Broken Bay, a few leagues to the northward of Port Jackfon, Hi order to explore it. As a harbour it almoff. equals the latter, but the adjacent country was found fo rocky and bare, as to preclude all poffibility of turning it to account. Some rivulets of frefh water fall into the head of the Bay, forming a very picturefque fcejie. The Indians who live 014 its banks are numerous, and behaved attentively in a variety of inftances while pur people remained among them.
CHAP
( )
CHAP. XIII.
jfranfaMions at Port Jackfon, in the Months of April and May.
April, 1788.
winter was faff approaching, it became neceflary to fecure ourfelves in quarters, which might fhield us from the cold we were taught to expect in this he-mifphere, though in fb low a latitude. The erection of barracks for the foldiers was projected, and the private men of each company undertook to build for themfelves. two wooden houfes, of fixty-eight feet in length, and twenty-three in breadth. To forward the delign, feveral faw-pits, were immediately fet to work, and four (hip carpenters attached to the battalion, for the purpofe of directing anc$ completing this neceflary undertaking. In profecutin'g it, however, fo many difficulties occurred, that we were feign to circumscribe our original intentions; and, inftead of eight houfes, content our-2 felves
t   i°3 )
felves with four. And even thefe, from the badnefs of the timber, the fcarcity of artificers, and other impediments, are at the day on which I write, fo little advanced, that it will be well, if at the clofe of the year 1788, we {hall be eflabliified in them. In the mean while the married people, by proceeding on a more contracted fcale, were foon under comfortable Shelter. Nor were the convicts forgotten ; and asleifure was frequently afforded them for the purpofe, little edifices' quickly multiplied on the ground allotted them to build upon.
But as thefe habitations were intended by Governor Phillip, to anfwer only the exigency of the moment, the plan of a town was drawn, and the ground on which it is hereafter to Stand Ihrveyed, and marked out. To proceed on a narrow, confined fcale, in a country of the extenfive limits we poflefs, would be unpardonable: extent of empire demands grandeur of defign. That this has been our view will be readily believed, when I tell the reader, that the principal Street in our projected city will be, when completed,
agreeable
(   *C4 )
Agreeable to the plan laid down, two hundred feet in breadth, and all the reft of a corresponding proportion. How far this will be accompanied with adequate difpatch, is another queltion, as the incredulous among, us are Sometimes hardy enough to declare, that ten times our Strength would not be able to fittim it in as many years?.
Invariably intent on exploring a Country, from which curiofity promifes fo many gratifications, his fixcellency about this time undertook an expedition into the interior parts of the continent. His party confiffed of eleven perfons, who, after being conveyed by water to the head of the harbour, proceeded in a weflerly direction, to reach a chain of mountains, which in clear weather are difcernible, though at an im-menfe distance, from fome heights near our encampment. With unwearied induftry they continued to penetrate the country for four days ; but at the end of that time, finding the bale of the mountain to be yet at the diftance of more than twenty miles, and provifions growing fcarce, it was judged
prudent
( io5 )
prudent to return, without having accomplished the end for which the expedition had been undertaken. To reward their toils, our adventurers had, however, the pleafure of difcovering; and traverfins: an exteniive tract of ground, which they had reafon to believe, from the obfervations they were enabled to make, capable of producing every thing, which a happy foil and genial climate can brine: forth. In addition to this natter-ing appearance, the face of the country is fuch, as to promife fuccefs whenever it, (hall be cultivated, the trees being at a considerable diftance from each other, and the intermediate fpace filled, not with underwood, but a thick rich grafs, growing in the utmoft luxuriancy. I muSl not, however, conceal, that in this long march, our gentlemen found not a iingle rivulet, but were under a neceSSity of Supplying themfelves with "water from Standing pools, which they met with in the vallies, fuppofed to be formed by the rains that fall at particular ieafons of the year. Nor had they the good fortune to fee any quadrupeds worth notice, except a few kangaroos. To their great fur-
P prize,
prize, they ebferved indiipu table tracks of the natives having been lately there, though in their whole route none of them were to be feen ; nor any means to be traced, by which they could procure fubfi(fence fo far from the fea more.
On the 6th of May the Supply failed for Lord Howe Ifland, to take on board turtle for the fettlement; but after waiting there feveral days was obliged to return without having feen one, owing we apprehended to the advanced ieafon of the vear. Three of the tranfports alio, which were engaged by the Eafl India Company to proceed to China, to take on board a lading of tea, failed about this time for Canton.
The unfuccefsful return of the Supply call a general damp on our Spirits, for by this time frefh provisions were become (career than in a blockaded town. The little live flock, which with fo heavy an expence, and through fo many difficulties, we had brought on more, prudence forbade us to ufe ; and tiih, which on our arrival, and
for
forlTfliort time after had been tolerable plenty, were become fo fcarce, as to be rarely feen at the tables of the fir ft among us. Had it not been for a ft ray kangaroo, which fortune now and then threw in our way, we fhould have been utter ftran^ers to the tafte of frefh. food.
Thus fituated, the fcurvy began its ufual ravages, and extended its baneful influence, more or lefs, through all defcriptions of perfons. Unfortunately the efculent vegetable productions of the country are neither plentiful, nor tend very effectually to remove this difeafe. And the ground we had turn-ed up and planted with garden feeds, either from the nature of the foil, or, which is more probable, the latenefs of the feafon, yielded but a fcanty and infufhcient fupply of what we flood fo greatly in need of,
During the period I am defcribing, few enormous offences were perpetrated by the convicts. A petty theft was now and then heard of, and a fpirit of refractory fullen.neffi broke out at times in fome individuals: one p 2 execu-
executionp only, however, took place. The fufferer, who was a very young man, was convicted of a burglary, and met his fate with a hardinefs and infenfibility, which the grojleff ignorance, and molt deplorable want of feeling, alone could fupply.
CHAR
CHAP. XIV.
From the Beginning of June, to the Departure of the Ships for Europe.
JJjOURSof feffjvity, which under hap-pier Ikies pafs away unregarded, and are loon conligned to oblivion, acquire in this forlorn and diftant circle a fuperior de^ gree of acceptable importance.
On the anniverfary of the King's birthday all the officers not on duty, both of the garrifbn and his Majefty's fhips, dined with the Governor. On fo joyful an occafion, the firft too ever celebrated in our new fet-tlement, it were needlefs to fay, that loyal conviviality dictated every fentiment, and infpired every gueff.. Among other public toafts drunk, was, profperity to Sydney Cove, in Cumberland county, now named fo by authority. At daylight in the morning the mips of war had fired twenty-one guns each, which was repeated at noon,
and
(     "° )
and anfwered by three vollies from the bat* talion of marines,
Nor were the officers alone partakers of 'the general relaxation. The four unhappy wretches labouring under Sentence of ba-'nifhment were freed from their fetters, to rejoin their former fociety ; and three days given as holidays . to every convict in the colony. Hofpitality too, which ever acquires a double reliih by being extended, was not forgotten on the 4th of June, when each priSpner, male and female, received an allowance of grog; and every iioa-commif-lioned officer and private foldier had the honor of drinking prpfperity to his royal matter, in a pint of porter, ferved out at the flag SlarT, in addition to the cuStomary allowance of fpirits. Bonfires concluded the evening, and I am happy to fay, that excepting a finale inftance which fhali he taken notice of hereafter, no bad confequence, or unpleafant remembrance, flowed from an indulgence So amply beftowed.
About this time [June] an accident happened, which I record with much regret* The whole of our black cattle, confining of five cows and a bull, either from not being properly fecurcd, or from the negligence of thofe appointed to take care of them, ft rayed into the woods, and in ipite of all the fearch we have been able to make, are not yet found. As a convict of the name of Corbet, who was aceufed of a theft, eloped nearly at the fame time, it was at firit believed, that he had taken the defperate meafure of driving off the cattle, in order to lubiift on them as long as poflible ; or perhaps to deliver them to the natives. In this uncertainty, parties to fearch were fent out in different directions ; and the fugitive declared an outlaw, m cafe of not returning by a fixed day. After much anxiety and fatigue, thofe who had undertaken the talk returned without finding the cattle* But on the 21ft of the month, Corbet made his appearance, near a farm belonging to the Governor, and entreated a convict, who happened to be on the fpot, to give him fome food, as he was ptaiihing for hunger..   The man applied to,
under
under pretence of fetching what he afked for, went away and immediately gave the neceflary information, in confequence of which a party under arms was fent out and apprehended hirrn When the poor wretch was brought in, he was greatly emaciated and almoSt famished. But on proper restoratives being administered, he was So far recovered by the 24th, as to be able to Stand his trial, when he pleaded Guilty to the robbery with which he Stood charged, and received fentence of death. In the courSe of repeated examinations it plainly appeared, he was an utter Stranger to the place where the cattle might be, and was in no Shape concerned in having driven them off.
Samuel Peyton, convict, for having on the evening of the King's birth-day broke open an officer's marquee, with an intent to commit robbery, of which he was fully convicted, had fentence of death paSfed on him at the fame time as Corbet; and on the following day they were both executed, confefu* ng the jultnefs of their fate, and imploring the forgivenefs of thofe whom they
had
had injured. Peyton, at the time of his fuffering, was but twenty years of age, the greater!: part of which had been invariably paned in the commiffion of crimes, that at length terminated in his ignominious end. The following letter, written by a fellow convict to the fufferer's unhappy mother, I ihall make no apology for prefenting to the reader ; it affords a melancholy proof, that not the ignorant and untaught only have provoked the juftice of their country to ba-nifh them to this remote region.
** Sydney Cove, Port Jackfon, New South Wales, 24th June, 1788.
" My dear and honoured mother 1
« With a heart oppreffed by.the keeneff fenfe of anguifh, and too much agitated by the idea of my very melancholy condition, to exprefs my own fentiments, I have prevailed on the goodnefs of a commiferating friend, to do me the laft fid office of acquainting you with the dreadful fate that awaits me.
Q " My
u My dear mother ! with what agony of foul do I dedicate the few laft moments of my life, to bid you an eternal adieu : my doom being irrevocably fixed, and ere this hour to-morrow I fhall have quitted, this vale of wretchednefs, to enter into an unknown and endlefs eternitv.   I will not dif-
it
trefs your tender maternal feelings by any long comment on the caufe of my prefent misfortune. Let it therefore fufhce to fay, that impelled by that ftrong propenfity to evil, which neither the virtuous precepts nor example of the beft of parents could eradicate, I have at length fallen an unhappy, though J uft, victim to my own follies.
" Too late I regret my inattention to your admonitions, and feel myfelf fenfibly affected by the remembrance of the many anxious moments you have pafled on my account. For thefe, and all my other tranf* grefuons, however great, I fupplicate the Divine forgivenefs; and encouraged by the promifes of that Saviour who died for us all, I truft to receive that mercy in the world to
come.
i   "5 )
Come, which my offences have deprived me of all hope, or expectation of, in this. The affliction which this will coft you, I hope the Almighty will enable you to bear, Ba-nifh from your memory all my former in-difcretions, and let the cheering hope of a happy meeting hereafter, confole you for my lofs.   Sincerely penitent for my fins; fenfible of the juftice of my conviction and fentence, and firmly relying on the merits of a Blefled Redeemer, I am at perfect peace with all mankind, and truft I mail yet experience that peace, which this world cannot give.   Commend my foul to the Divine mercy.   I bid you an eternal farewell.
Your unhappy dying Son,
SAMUEL PEYTON."
ft To Mrs. Peyton, London."
After this nothing occurred with which I think it neceflary to trouble the reader. The contents of the following chapters could not, I conceive, be fo properly interwoven in the body of the work; I have, therefore, affigned Qj* them
(  "6 ) them a place by themfelves, with a view that the conclusions adopted in them may be more ftrongly enforced on the minds of thofe, to whom they are more particularly addreffedt
CHAR
( Uy )
CHAP. X\t
the Face of the Country ; its Ptoduclions%
O the geographical knowledge of this
country, fupplied by Captain Cook, and Captain Furneanx, we are able to add nothing. The latter explored the coaft from Van Dieman's land to the latn tude of 390 fouth ; and Cook from Point Hicks, which lies in 370 58', to Endeavour Streights. The intermediate fpace between the end of Furneaux's difcovery and Point Hicks, is, therefore, the only part of the fouth-eaft coaft unknown, and it fo happened on our pafiage thither, owing to the weather, which forebade any part of the ihips engaging with the ifiore, that we are unable to pronounce whether, or not, a ftraight interfects the continent hei*eabouts : though I beg leave to fay, that I have been informed by a naval friend, that when the
Climate, &c.
fleet
(  nl )
fleet was off this part of the coaft, a Strong Set-off Shore was plainly felt.
At the diftance of 60 miles inland, a pro-* digious chain of lofty mountains runs nearly in a north and fouth direction, further than the eye can trace them. Should nothing intervene to prevent it, the Governor intends, Shortly, to explore their fummits % and, I think there can be little doubt, that his curiofity will not go unrewarded. If large rivers do exiit in the country, which fome of us are almoft fceptical enough to doubt, their fources muft anfe amidft thefe hills ; and the direction they run in, for a, considerable diftance, muft be either duo north, or due fouth. For it is Strikingly lingular that three fuch noble harbours as Botany Bay, Port Jackfon, and Broken Bay, alike end in Shallows and Swamps, Silled with mangroves.
The general face of the country is cer^ 'tainly pleafing, being diversified with gentle afcents, and little winding vallies, covered for the moft part with large Spreading trees,
which
( m )
which afford a fuccefnon of leaves in all feafons. In thofe places where trees ar« fcarce, a variety of flowering fhrubs abound, moft of them entirely new to an European, and furpaffing in beauty, fragrance, and number, all I ever faw in an uncultivated ftate : among thefe, a tall Ihrub, bearing an elegant white flower, which fmells like Engliih May, is particularly delightful, and perfumes the air around to a great diftance. The fpecies of trees are few, and, I am concerned to add, the wood univerfally of fo bad a grain, as almoft to preclude a poftibi-lity of uling it: the increafe of labour oc-cafioned by this in our buildings has been fuch, as nearly to exceed belief. Thefe trees yield a profunon of thick red gum (not unlike the fanguis draConis) which is found ferviceable in medicine, particularly in dy-fenteric complaints, where it has fometimes fucceeded, when all other preparations have failed. To blunt its acrid qualities, it is t#fual to combine it with opiates.
This
(   iio )
The riatiire of the foil is various. That ifnmediately round Sydney Cove is fandy, with here and there a Stratum of clay. From the fand we have yet been able to draw very little; but there feems no reafon to doubt, that many large tracts of land around us will bring to perfection whatever mall be' fown in them. To give this matter a fair trial, fome practical farmers capable of fuch an undertaking mould be fent out ; for the fpots we have chofen for experiments in agriculture, in which we can fcarce be fup-pofed adepts, have hitherto but ill repaid our toil, which may be imputable to our having chofen fuch as are unfavourable for our purpofe.
Except from the fize of the trees, the difficulties of clearing the land are not numerous, underwood being rarely found, though the country is not abfolutely without it. Of the natural meadows which Mr. Cook mentions near Botany Bay, we can give no account ; none fuch exift about Port Jackfon. Grafs, however, grows in every place but the fwamps with the greateft vigour and
luxu-
luxuriancy, though it is not of the fined quality, and is found to agree better with horfes and cows than iheep. A few wild fruits are fometimes procured, among which is the fmall purple apple mentioned by Cook, and a fruit which has the appearance of a grape, though in tafle more like a green goolberry, being exceffively four : probably were it meliorated by cultivation, it would become more palatable.
Freih water, as I have Said before, is found but in inconfiderable quantities. For the common purpofes of life there is generally enough; but we know of no Stream in the country capable of turning a mill; and the remark made by Mr. Anderfon, of the drynefs of the country round Adventure Bay, extends without exception to every pait of it which we have penetrated.
Previous to leaving England I remember to have frequently heard it aflerted, that the difcovery of mines was one of the fecondary objects of the expedition. Perhaps there are mines; but as no perfon competent to form.
R a-de-
a decifion is to be found among us, I wiSlt no one to adopt an idea, that I mean to im-prefs him with fuch a belief, when I State, that individuals, whofe judgements are not defpicable, are willing to think favourably of this conjecture, from fpecimens of ore feen in many of the Hones picked up here. I can** not quit this fubject without regretting, that fome one capable of throwing a better light on it, is not in the colony. Nor can I help being equally concerned, that an experienced botanift. was not fent out, for the purpofe of collecting and defcribing the rare and beautiful plant9 with which the country abounds. Indeed, we nattered ourfelves, when at the Cape of Good Hope, that Mafon, the King's botanical gardener, who was employed there in collecting for the royal nurfery at Kew, would have joined Us, but it Seems his orders and engagements prevented him from quitting that beaten track, to enter on ihii lceue of novelty and variety.
To the naturalift this country holds out .many invitations.—Birds,. though not remarkably
markably numerous, are in great variety, and of the rnpSt exquifite beauty of plumage, among which are the cockatoo, lory, and parroquet: but the bird which principally claims attention is, a fpecies of oStrich, approaching nearer to the emu of South America than any other we know of. One of them was mot, at a confiderahlc diftance, with a fingle ball, by a convict em, ployed for that purpofe by the Governor; its weight, when complete, was feventy pounds, and its length from the end of the toe to the tip of the beak, feven feet two inches, though there was reafon to believe it had not attained its full growth. On dif-fection many anatomical Singularities were obferved : the gall-bladder w7as remarkably large, the liver not bigger than that of a barn-door fowl, and after the Stricteft fearch no gizzard could be found ; the legs, which were of a vaSt length, were covered ■with thick, Strong Scales, plainly indicating the animal to be formed for living amkUt defarts; and the foot differed from an of-iricVs by fbrming a triangle, inStcad of bring cloven* Goldimith, whole account R 2 of
*f the emu is the only one I can refer to, fays, " that it is covered fronat the back and rump with long feathers, which fall backward, and cover the anus; thefe feathers are grey on the back, and white on the belly."   The wings are fo fmall as hardly to deferve the name, and are unfurnifhed with thofe beautiful ornaments which adorn the wings of the oft-rich : all the feathers are extremely coarfe, but the con ft ruction of them deferves notice—they grow in pairs from a fingle fhaft, a Singularity which the author I have quoted has omitted to remark.   It may be prelumec], that thefe birds are not very fcarce, as feveral have been feen, fome of them immenfely large, but they are fo wild, as to make mooting them a matter of great difficulty. Though incapable of flying,  they run with fuch fwiftnefs, that our neeteft greyhounds are left far behind iu every attempt to catch them.   The flefh was eaten, and tafted like beef.
Befides the emu, many birds of prodigN ous frze have been feen, which promife to 2 increafe
iiicreafe the number of thofe defciibed by naturalifts, whenever we lhaLl be fortunate enough to obtain them ; but among thefe the bat of the Endeavour river is not to be found. In the woods are various little fong-Iters, whofe notes are equally fweet and plaintive.
Of quadrupeds, except the kangaroo, I have little to fay. The few met with are almoft invariably of the opoflum tribe, but even thefe do not abound. To hearts of prey we are utter ftrangers, nor have we yet any caufe to believe that they exift in the counry. And happy it is for us that they do not, as their prefence would deprive us of the only frefh meals the fettlement affords, the flefh of the kangaroo. This lingular animal is already known in Europe by the drawing and de-fcription of Mr. Cook. *To the drawing nothing can be objected but the pofition of the claws of the hinder leg, which are mixed together like thofe of a dog, whereas no fuch indiftm£tnefs is to be found in the animal I am deferring. It was the Chevalier
lier De Perroufe who pointed out this to me, while we were comparing a kangaroo with the plate, which, as he juftly obferved, is correct: enough to give the world in general a good idea of the animal, but not fuffici-r ently accurate for the man of fcience.
Of the natural hiStory of the kangaroo wo are frill very ignorant. We may, however, venture to pronounce this animal, a new fpecies of opoflum, the female being furnifh-ed with a hag, in which the young is coivr tained ; and in which the teats are found, Thefe laSt are only two in number, a Strong prefumptive proof, had we no other evidence, that the kangaroo brings forth rarely more than one at a birth. But this. is. fettled beyond a doubt, from more than a dozen females having been killed, which had invariably but one formed in the pouch. Notwithstanding this, the animal may be. looked on as prolific, from the early age it begins to breed at, kangaroos with young having been taken of not more than thirty pounds weight; and there is room to believe that when at their utmoft growth, they weigh
(   127 )
not lefs than one hundred and fifty pounds. A male of one hundred and thirty pounds weight has been killed, whofe diinenuons were as follows;
Ft. Inch,
Extreme length      — .—   7 3 Do. of the tail      —    —    3 4f Do. of the hinder legs   —      3 2 Do. of the fore paws —   —   1 7? Circumference of the tail of the
•root.    —   — «— —■ 1.5
After this perhaps I (hall hardly be credited, when I affirm that the kangaroo on being brought forth is not larger than an Englifh moufe. It is, however, in my power to fpeak pofitively on this head, as I have feen more than one inffance of it.
In running, this animal confines himfeli entirely to his hinder legs, which are pof-fefled with an extraordinary mufcular power. Their fpeed is very great, though not in general quite equal to that of a greyhound ; but when the greyhounds are fo fortunate as to
fcize
fevAt them, they are incapable of retaining their hold, from the amazing Struggles of the animal. The bound of the kangaroo, when not hard prefled, has been meafured, and found to exceed twenty feet.
At what time of the year they copulate, and in what manner, wc know not : the tefticles of the male are placed contrary to the ufual order of nature.
When young, the kangaroo eats tender and well flavoured, taSting like veal, but the old ones are more tough and Stringy than bull-beef. They are not carnivorous, and fubfift altogether on particular flowers and grafs. Their bleat is mournful, and very different from that of any other animal, it is, however, feldom heard but in the young-ones.
FiSh, which our fanguine hopes led us to expect in great quantities, do not abound. In fummer they are tolerably plentiful, but for fome months paft very few have been taken.   Botany Bay in this refpect exceeds
Port
Port Jackfon. The French once caught near two thoufand fifh in one day, of a fpe-cies of grouper, to which, from the form of a bone 4n the head refcmbling a helmet, we have given the name of light horfeman. To . this may be added bafs, mullets, lkait, foles, leather-jackets, and many other fpecies, all fo good in their kind, as to double our regret at their not being more numerous. Sharks of an enormous fixe are found here, One of thefe was caught by the people on board the Sirius, which meafured at the moulders fix feet and a half in circumference. His liver yielded twenty-four gallons of oil ; and in his ffomach was found the head of a mark, which had been thrown overboard from the fame fhip. The Indians, probably from having felt the effects of their voracious fury, teftify the utmoft horror on feeing thefe terrible fifh.
Venomous animals and reptiles are rarely feen. Large makes beautifully variegated have been killed, but of the effect: of their bites we are happily ignorant. Infects, though numerous, are by no means, even in S fum-
(   l3° )
fummer, fo troublefome as I have found them in America, the Weft Indies, and other countries.
The climate is undoubtedly very defirable to live in. In fummer the heats areufually moderated by the fea breeze, which fets in early ; and in winter the degree of cold is fo flight as to occafion no inconvenience; once or twice we have had hoar frofts and hai}, but no appearance of fnow. The thermometer has never rifen beyond 84, nor fallen lower than 35, in general it Stood in the beginning of February at between 78 and 74 at noon. iNor is the temperature of the airlefs healthy than pleafant, Thofe dreadful putrid fevers by which new countries are fo often ravaged, are unknown to us; and excepting a flight diarrhoea, which prevailed foon after we had landed, and was fatal in very few instances, we are Strangers tq epidemic difeafes.
On the whole, (thunder Storms in the hot months excepted) I know not any climate equal to this I write in.   Ere we had been a
fort-
fortnight on more we experienced fome (forms of thunder accompanied with rain, than which nothing can be conceived more violent and tremendous, and their repetition for feveral days, joined to the damage they, did, by killing feveral of our fheep, led us to draw prefages of an unpleafant nature. Happily, however, for many months we have efcaped any fimiliar vifitations.
CHAR
C  Ii   A   P. XVI.
7 he Progrefs made in the Settlement; and the Situation of Affairs at the time of the Ship, which conveys this Account, failing for England.
"P O R the purpole of expediting the public work, the male convicts have been divided into gangs, over each of which a per-fon, Selected from among them Selves, is placed. It is to be regretted that Government did not take this matter into consideration before we left England, and appoint proper perfons with reaSbnable Salaries to execute the office of overfeers; as the cbnfequcncc of our prefent imperfect plan is fuch, as to defeat in a great meafure the purpofes for which the prifoncrs were fent out.   The female convicts have hitherto lived in a Slate of total iuienefs ; except a few who are kept at work in making pegs ,for tiles, and picking up Shells tor burning into lime.   For the laft r time
(   l33 )
time I repeat, that the behaviour of all clanes of thefe people Since our arrival in the fet-tlement has been better than could, I think, have been expected from them.
Temporary wooden Storehoufes covered with thatch or mingles, in which the cargoes of all the mips have been lodged, are completed ; and an hoSpital is erected. Barracks for the military are coniiderably advanced ; and little huts to ferve, until fomething more permanent can be finished, have been raifed on all fides. Notwithstanding this the encampments of the marines and convicts are Still kept up ; and to fecure their owners from the coldnefs of the nights, are covered in with buShes, and thatched over.
The plan of a town I have already laid is marked out. And as free-Stone of an excellent quality abounds, one requisite towards the completion of it is attained. Only two houfes of Stone are yet begun, which are intended for the Governor and Lieutenant Governor. One of the greateSt impediments we meet with, is a want of limeltone, ot
which
( )
which no Signs appear. Clay for making bricks is in plenty, and a considerable quantity of them burned and ready for ufe.
In enumerating the public buildings I find I have been fo remifs as to omit an obferva-tory, which is erected at a Small diftance from the encampments. It is nearly completed, and when fitted up with the tele-icopes and other astronomical instruments Sent out by the Board of Longitude, will afford a deSitable retreat from the lililefT-nefs of a camp evening at Port Jackfon. One of the principal rcafons which induced the Board to grant this apparatus was, for the purpofe of enabling Lieutenant Dawes of the marines, (to whole care it is intrulted) to make obfervations on a comet which is Shortly expected to appear in the Southern hemifphere. The latitude of the obfervatory, frrjfn the refult of more than three hundred obfervations, is fixed at 33° 52' 3°" South, and the longitude at 1 51° i6/ 30" caff of Greenwich. The latitude of the South head which forms the enJ trance of the harbour, o>3° Sl\ and that of
the
the north head oppofite to it at 330 49/ 45'' fouth.
Since landing here our military force has fuffered a diminution of only three perfons, a ferjeant and two privates. Of the convicts fifty-four have pcrifhed, including the executions. Amidft the caufes of this mortality, exceffive toil and a fcarcity of food are not to be numbered, as the reader will eafily conceive, when informed, that they have the lame allowance of provisions as every officer and foldier in the garrifon ; and are indulged by being exempted from labour every Saturday afternoon and Sunday. On the latter of thofe days they are expected to attend divine fervice, which is performed either within one of the fforehoufes, or under a great tree in the open air, until a church can be built.
Amidft. our public labours, that no fortified poft, or place of feeurity, is yet begun, may be a matter of furprife. Were an emergency in the night to happen, it is not eafy to fay wxiat might not take place before
troops
troops, Scattered about in an extenfive encampment, could be formed, fo as to act. An event that happened a few evenings Since may, perhaps, be the means of forwarding this neceflary work. In the dead of night the ccntinels on the eaSfern fide of the cove were alarmed by the voices of the Indians, talking near their polls. The foldiers on this occafion acted with their ufaal firmnefs, and without creating a disturbance, acquainted the officer of the guard with the circumftance, who immediately took every precaution to prevent an attack, and at the Same time gave orders that no moleStation, while they continued peaceable, Should be offered them. From the darknefs of the night, and the distance they kept at, it was not eafy to afcertain their number, hut from the found of the voices and other circumstances, it was calculated at near thirty. To their intentions in honouring us with this vifit (the only one we have had from them in the laSt five months) we are Strangers, though moft probably it was either with a view to pilfer, or to afcertain in what Security we Slept, and the precautions we ufed
in
in the night. When the bells of the ihips in the harbour {truck the hour of the night, and the centinels called out on their poSts " All's well," they obferved a dead Silence, and continued it for fome minutes, though talking with the greateft earneStnefs and vociferation but the moment before. After having remained a considerable time they departed without interchanging a Syllable with our people.
T CHAP.
CHAP. XVII.
Some thoughts on the Advantages which may arife to the Mother Country from forming the Colony,
E author of thefe meets would fub-ject himfelf to the -charge of preemption, were he to aim at developing the intentions of Government in forming this fet-tlement. But without giving offence, or incurring reproach, he hopes his opinion on the probability of advantage to be drawn, from hence by Great Britain, may be fairly made known.
If only a receptacle for convicts be intended, this place Hands unequalled from the fituation, extent, and nature of the country. When viewed in a commerc ial light, I fear its inngnificance will appear very finking. The New Zealand hemp* of which fo many finguinc expectations
were
were formed, is not a native of the foil; and Norfolk Ifland, where we made fure to find this article, is alfo without it. So that the fcheme of being able to afliit the Eaft Indies with naval ftores, in cafe of a war, muft fall to the ground, both from this deficiency, and the quality of the timber growing here. Were it indeed poffible to tranfport that of Norfolk Ifland, its value would be found very great, but the difficulty, from the furf, I am well informed, is fo infuperable as to forbid the attempt. Lord Howe Ifland, discovered by Lieut. Ball, though an ineftima-ble acquifition to our colony, produces little elfe than the mountain cabbage tree.
Should a fufficient military force be lent out to thofe employed in cultivating the ground, I fee no room to doubt, that in the courfe of a few years, the country will be able to yield grain enough for the fupport of its new pofleflbrs. But to effect: this, our prefent limits muff be greatly extended, which will require detachments of troops, not to be fpared from the prefent eftabfifh-ment. And admitting the pofition, the pa-T ?. rent
(   r4° )
rent country will frill have to Supply us for a much longer time with every other necef-fary of life. For after what we have feen, the idea of being foon able to breed cattle fufh> cicnt for our confumption, muft appear chimerical and abfurd. From all which it is evident, that ihould Great Britain neglect to fend out regular fupplies, the moft fatal confeouences will enfue. .
Speculators who may feel inclined to try their fortunes here, will do well to weigh what I have faid. If golden dreams of commerce and wealth natter their imaginations, disappointment will follow: the remotenefs of Situation, productions of the country, and want of connection with other parts of the world, jultify me in the affer-rion. But to men of fmall property, unarm bitious of trade, and wishing for retirement, I think the continent of New South Wales not without inducements. One of this description, with letters of recommendation, and a fufficient capital (after having provided for his pahage hither) to furniSh him with an alfortment of tools for clearing land,
a2;ri-
agricultural and domestic purpofes; pof-feSied alfo of a few houfhold utenfils, a cow, a few Sheep and breeding fows, would, I am of opinion, with proper protection and encouragement, fucceed in obtaining a comfortable livelihood, were he well allured before he quitted his native country, that a provision for him until he might be fettled, Should be fecured; and that a grant of land on his arrival would be allotted him.
That this adventurer, if of a perfevering character and competent knowledge, might in the courfe of ten years bring matters into fuch a train as to render himfelf comfortable and independent, I think highly probable* The Superfluities of his farm would enable him to purchafe European commodities from the matters of Ships, which will arrive on Government account, fumcient to Supply his wants. But beyond this he ought not to reckon, for admitting that he might meet with fuccefs in railing tobacco, rice, indigo, or vineyards (for which lalt I think the foil and climate admirably adopted), the distance
of a mart to vend them at, would make the expence of tranfportation fo excefnve, as to cut off all hopes of a reafonable profit; nor can there be confumers enough here to take them off his hands, for fo great a length of time to come, as I fliall not be at the trouble ©f computing.
Should then any one, induced by this account emigrate hither, let him, before he quits England, provide all his wearing.apparel for himfelf, family, and fervants; his furniture, tools of every kind, and implements of hufbandry (among which a plough need not be included, as we make ufe of the hoe) for he will touch at no place where they can be purchafed to advantage. If his fheep and hogs are Englifh alfo, it will be better. For wines, fpirits, tobacco, fugar, coffee, tea, rice, poultry, and many other articles, he may venture to rely on at Teneriffe or Madeira, the Brazils and Cape of Good Hope. It will not be his intereft to draw bills on his voyage out, as the exchange of money will be found invariably againfr. him, and a large difcount alfo deducted.  Drafts on the place
•he
( m )
he is to touch at, or caSh (dollars if poffible) will belt aufwer his end.
To men of defperate fortune and the low-eft clanes of the people, unlefs they can procure apanage as indented fervants, Similar to the cuftom practifed of emigrating to America, this part of the world offers no temptation : for it can hardly be fuppofbd, that Government will be fond of maintaining them here until they can be fettled, and without fuch Support they muft Starve.
Of the Governor's instructions and intentions relative to the difpofal of the convicts, when the term of their transportation Shall be expired, 1 am ignorant. They will then be free men, and at liberty, I apprehend, either to fettle in the country, or to return to Europe. The former will be attended with lbme public expence ; and the latter, except in particular cafes, will be difficult to accomplish, from the nu.mberlefs cauies which prevent a frequent communication between England and this continent.
A LIST
A LIST of the Civil and Military EJablifi-ments in New South Wales.
Governor and Commander in Chief, His Excellency Arthur Phillip, Efq.
Lieutenant Governor, Robert Rofs, Efq.
fudge of the Admiralty Court, Robert Rofs, Efq.
Chaplain of the Settlement, the Rev. Richard Johnfon.
Judge Advocate of the Settlement, David Collins, Efq.
Secretary to the Governor, David Collins, Eiq.
Surveyor General, Augustus Alt, Efq.
Commijfary of Stores and Provifons, Andrew Miller, Efq.
Affijiant Commijfary, Mr. Zechariah Clarke.
Provofl Martial, who acts as Sheriff of Cumberland County, Mr. Henry Brewer.
Peace Officer, Mr. James Smith.
Mi Li-
(   H5 )
Military Establishment.
His Majeftys ftp Sir.'us, John Hunter, Efq. Commander.
Lieutenants, —'—Bradley, King, Maxwell. His Majeffs armed Brig, Supply, Lieutenant Henry Lidgbird Ball, Commander.
Four Companies of Marines. Major Robert Ross, Commandant.
Captains commanding Companies,
James Campbell, John Shea, Captain Lieutenants, James Meredith, Watkin Tench.
Flrf Lieutenants.
George Johnfon, John Johnfon,
• John Crefwell, James Maitland Shairp,
Robert Nellow, Thomas Davey,
James Furzer, Thomas Timins, John Poulden,
Second Lieutenants.
Ralph Clarke,        John Long, William Dawes,     William Feddy.
U Adh~.
Adjutant, John Long.
Quarter Majier, James Furzer.
Aid de Camp to the Governor, George Johnfon.
Officer of Engineers and Artillery, William Dawes.
Hospital Establishment.
Surgeon General of the Settlement, John White, Efq.
Firfl Ajjiftant, Mr. Dennis Cpnfidcm
Second Affiant, Mr. Thomas Arndell,
third Affiant, Mr. Will iam Balmaim
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