♦
A Chart  of  the Souther
according to the lateft Difcoveries : with the Tracks  of the Refoliirion , Cap" Cook ; and the Adventure, Cap! Furneaux; from
F O R S T JE JR , F.R.S.
G E O R G E
( Ur/i/ana/t<>n *\
1. Whitsunday Island.........
2. Queen Charlotte's Island. I Set
3. Ecjinon t Island................\ 1 > v
4. Gloucester Island............ C apt ai n
j. Cumberland Island..........^ Wal lis.
(>.Fr. Will"'RciutsIsland C. Carlshof I......feen by Rogge vein    ' ^
'Water/and.....feen WLe^laire.
el /// (> Jt r/
America,//»//; 1) An i ille, compared h idi
-»    r .   ,   . n
t)/w/; WW e' hai ts oc the Reso luti oil ** disco) >ei ics
Africa, from JF.Dalrvmplcs Chart of tht
Southern Ocean, 8c the New Edition of
J\LD'A.prcs Neptune Oriental. New Holland, according to the latest Charts,
8c the .Endeavours Disco)'cues. Eaftem I sle s of A sia, from ± I/.'1) a Ir\ nip It s C hai /
of the China Sea, 8c t/teNeptune Oriental,
INJeiv
can
Engraved by William Whitchurch.
rtibt/sfica1 according to Act of'l'trdamciU.JIarch ^ijjy
\
s p
~* 9
Adventure, Cap! Furneaux; from 1772, to 1775.
) R S T E Jt , F.R.S.
ff lit O /t ft
//<<
/'    (>//'/ t
Con* ,t /a//rl,> . —
R. Rcsomtujns lsltmd>. D. Doubtful Island. I1'. Rurn.eau.ys Is/and'. A. Adventures Island'. J*. J1 alliscisi1!, orRogycucins PimiaoasI' G. Byroiis King Gcorijcs Islands.
Thefe were  fee 11 in the Relocation.
a drones, C aroline 111 e s,<\: IVfc adores, accordi no to Capff]\allis's Observations at Ti man ,$cc. eneas' guinea 8cTSewBritain, from I)ampler, Carteret, te I) Anville,compared with Dcs -Jiro/ses, Sc Dairymplc. islands in the Facifick Ocemi.fom the latest Discoveries in the Resolution (iJjQ $CijJ\j carefully collated with allfbnneriXavùjators
A
V    O    Y    A    G E
ROUND THE
w
o
E
L
D,
i n
His Britannic Majesty's Sloop, Resolution,
commanded by Capt. James Cook, during the Years 1772, 3,.4, and 5.
By    GEORGE    FORSTER,   F. R. S.
Member of the Royal Academy of Madrid, and of the Society for promoting Natural Knowledge at Berlin.
IN     TWO VOLUMES. V O L. i.
On M rcpouffc point la vcrité fans bruit, Et de quclque faqon qu'on l'arrète au paflage. On verrà tót-ou-tard que e'etoit un outrage, Doilt il falloit qu'au moins la hontc fut le fruit.
De Missy.
LONDON,
Printed for B. White, Fleet-Street; J. Ropson, Bond Street; P. ElmslY, Strand ; and G. Robinson', Pater-noiler Row. mdcclxxv1i.
f
PREFACE.
T TlSTORY docs not offer an example of fuch dif-intercfled efforts, towards the enlargement of human knowledge, as have been made by the Britifh nation, fince the accefllon of his prefent Majefty to the Throne. America,
with all its riches, might long have remained undifcovered, if the unequalled pcrfeverancc and the glorious enthufiafrri of Columbus had not providentially furmounted every difficulty, and, in fpite of ignorance and envy, forced their way to Ferdinand and Ifabella. That immortal navigator was protected at laft, only becaufe he opened a new and evident fource of gain. But a friendship between Plutus and the Mufes was too fingular to be fincere ; it only laded whiifl they, with no better fuccefs than the Danaids, poured heaps of gold into his treafury.
The triumph of fcience was refcrved to later periods of time. Three voyages of difcovery, from the moft liberal motives, had already been performed, when a fourth was undertaken by order of an enlightened monarch, upon a more enlarged and majeilic plan than ever was put in
A .2 execution
P    R    E    F    A    C E.
execution before. The greatefl navigator of his time, two* able aftronomers, a man of fcience to fludy nature in all her recedes, and a painter to copy fome of her mod curious productions, were felected at the cxpence of the nation. After completing their voyage, they have prepared to give an account of their refpectivc difcoveries, which cannot fail of crowning, their employers at lead, with immortal honour.
The Britifh legiilaturc did not fend out and liberally fup-port my father as a naturalift, who was merely to bring home a collection of butterflies and dried plants. That fupcrior wifdom which guides the counfels of this nation, induced many pcrfons of considerable diftinction to act on this occafion with unexampled greatnefs. So far from prescribing rules for his conduct, they conceived that the man whom they had chofen, prompted by his natural love of fcience, would endeavour to derive the greatefl pofllble advantages to learning from his voyage. He was only therefore directed to exercife all his talents, and to extend his obfervations to every remarkable object. From him they expected a philofophical hiflory of the voyage, free from prejudice and vulgar error, where human nature fhould be reprefented without any adherence to fallacious fyftems, and upon the principles of general philanthropy ; in fhort, an account written upon a plan which the learned world had not hitherto feen executed.
My
My father performed the voyage, and collected his ob-fervations agreeably to the ideas which had thus been entertained of him. Fully refolved to complete the purpofe of his million, and to communicate his difcoveries to the public, and not allowing himfelf any time to reft from the fatigues which he had undergone, he inferibed and prefented the fir ft fpecimen of his labours to his majefty within four months after his return *. The hiftory of the voyage, the principal performance which was demanded at his hands, next cngrolTed his whole attention. It was at firft propofed, that from his own and captain Cook's journals a {ingle narrative fhould be compofed, in which the important observations of each fhould be infertcd, and referred to their proper authors by different marks. My father received a part of captain Cook's journal, and drew up fcvcral meets as a fpecimen ; however, as it was foon after thought more expedient to feparate the two journals, this plan was not profecutcd. The Right Hon. the Lords Commiffioners of the Admiralty, being defirous of ornamenting the account of the late difcoveries with a number of plates, engraved after the drawing of the artift who went on the voyage, generoufly granted the whole expence of the engraving f
** Chara&ercs Gcnerum Plantarum quas in Infulis maris auflralis coll eg, &c0 Joannes Reinoldus Forfter, LL. D. & Georgius Forfler.    410. Lond. 1776.
t This expence amounts to upwards of 2000 /. all the plates being executed by the ablcft attillo.
ir*.
P    11     E     F     A     C E.
in equal fliarcs to captain Cook and my father.   An agreement was drawn up on the i 3th of April, 1776, between captain Cook and my father, in the prefencc, and with the figliature of the earl of Sandwich, fpecifying the particular parts of the account which were to be prepared for the prefs by each of the parties feparatcly, and confirming to them both jointly the generous gift of the plates from the Board of Admiralty.    In confequencc of j:his, my father prefented a fecond fpecimen of his narrative for the perufal of the earl of Sandwich, and was much furprifed at firfl that this fecond elFay was entirely difapproved ; but after fome time he was  convinced, that as the word " narrative" was omitted in the agreement, he had no right to compofe a connected account of thè voyage.   He was told that if he meant to preferve his claim to half the profit arifing from the plates which the Board of Admiralty provided, he muli: conform to the letter of the agreement ; and though he had always confidered himfelf as fent out chiefly with a view to write the hiflory of the voyage, he acquiefced for the benefit of his family, and ftrictly confined himfelf to the publication of his unconnected philofophical obfervations made in the courfe of the voyage.
I muft confefs, it hurt me much, to fee the chief intent of my father's million defeated, and the public difappointed * in their expectations of a philofophical recital of facts.
HowevejT,
PREPACK.
However, as I had been appointed his aflidant in the courfe of this expedition, I thought it incumbent upon me, at leali to attempt to write fuch a narrative. Every con-fideration prompted me to undertake the talk, which it was no longer in his power to perform. It was a duty we owed to the public; I had collected fuflicient materials during the voyage, and I had as much good will to begin with, as any traveller that ever wrote, or any compiler that was ever bribed to mutilate a narrative. I was bound by no agreement whatfoever, and that to which my father had Ggued, did not make him anfwerable for my actions,
nor in the mod diiiant manner preclude his giving me afftdance. Therefore in every important circumflance, I had leave to confult his journals, and have been enabled to draw up my narrative with the moll fcrupulous attention tc* hillorical truth.
Two anonymous publications on the fubject of our voyage have already appeared ; but the prefent age is too enlightened to credit marvellous hiflories, which would have difgufled even the romantic difpofition of our anceflors. The incidents of our voyage are various, and deeply in-tereiling, without the allillancc of fiction. Our courfe has been by turns fertile, and barren of events ; but as the indù dry of the labourer reaps fome advantage from the mod ungrateful foil, fo the mod dreary folitudes have-yielded indruction to the inquifuive mind.
Another
viii
p    R     E    T    A    C E.
Another narrative of this circumnavigation, is faid to have been written by captain James Cook of His Ma-jelly's Royal Navy, under whofe command it was performed. That account will be ornamented with a great variety of plates, reprefenting views of the countries which we vifited, portraits of the natives, figures of their boats, arms, and utenfils, together with a number of particular charts of the new difcoveries ; and all thefe plates, engraved at the expence of the Board of Admiralty, are the joint property of captain Cook and my father.
At iird fight it may feem fuperfluous to ofTcr two relations of this voyage to the world ; but when we confider them as narratives of interefiing facts, it mud be allowed that the latter will be placed in a flronger light, by being related by different perfons. Our occupations wThen in harbour were widely different ; whilfl captain Cook was employed in victualling or refitting the fhip, I went in quefl of the manifold objects which Nature had fcattered throughout the land. Nothing is therefore more obvious, than that each of us may have caught many d idi net incidents, and that our obfervations will frequently be foreign to each other. But above all, it is to be obferved, that the fame objects may have been feen in different points of view, and that the fame fact may often have given rife to different ideas. Many circumdances familiar to the navigator, who has been bred on the rough element, drike
the
the landman with novelty, and furnilh entertainment to his readers. The feaman views many objects on fliore with a retrofpect to maritime affairs, whilft the other attends to their ceconomical nfes. • In fliort, the different branches of fcience which we have fludicd, our turns of mind, our heads and hearts have made a difference in our fenfations, reflections, and expreffions. This difparity may have been rendered flill more evident, as I have flightly paffed over all regulations relative to the interior ccconomy of the fhip and the crew : I have ftudioufly avoided nautical details both at fea and in harbour, nor ventured to determine, how often we reefed, or fplit a fail in a florm, how many times we tacked to weather a point, and how often our refractory bark difobeyed her Palinurus, and miffed flays. The bearings and dillances of projecting capes, of peaks, hills, and hummocks, of bays, harbours, ports, and coves, at different hours of the day, have likewife been in general omitted. Thcfe inflructive particulars thrive in the proper field of the navigator. The hiflory of captain Cook's firft Voyage Round the World *, was eagerly read by all European nations, but incurred univerfal cenfure, I had almoft fa id contempt. It was the fate of that Hiftory, to be compiled by a perfon who had not been on the voyage ; and
• In the Endeavour, from 1768, to 1771, drawn up by Dr. John Hawkef-worth.
Vol. I. a 10
to the frivolous obfervations, the uninterefling digrcfTionsv and fophiflical principles of this writer, the ill-fuccefs of the work has been attributed j though few arc able to determine, with what degree of juftice the blame is thrown upon the compiler. The active life of captain Cook, and his indefatigable purfuits after difcoveries, have made it impoflible for him to iuperintend the printing of his own Journals ; and the public, I am much afraid, mutt again converfe with him by means of an interpreter. His pre-fent performance will, in all probability, have another cir-cumftance in common with the former, where many important obfervations, thought obnoxious, have been fup-prefled, as is cuftomary in France. The fame authority, which blew off M. de Bougainville from the ifland of Juan Fernandez, could hufh to fdence the Britiih guns, whilfl the Endeavour cannonaded the Portuguefe fort at Madeira *; Without entering farther into this fubjecT:, I mall only obferve, that the above remark will give an adequate idea of the authenticity of a performance, which is fubmitted
* The two circumftances here alluded to, are well known facts, though fupprefled in the publifhed narratives. M. de Bougainville fpent fome time at Juan Fernandez, and completely refreflied his crew there, though he wiihes to have it underftood, that contrary winds prevented his touching at that ifland. Captain Cook in the Endeavour, battered the Loo-fort at Madeira, in conjunction with an Englifli frigate, thus refenting an affront which had been, offered to the Britifli flag,
tGb
to ccnfure and mutilation, before it is offered to the public.
The philofophers of the prefent age, to obviate the feem-ing contradictions in the accounts of different travellers, have been at the trouble to felect certain authors in whom they have placed confidence, and rejected as fabulous the alTertions of all the reft.   Without being competent judges of the fubject, they have afìumed a few circumftances as facts j and wrcfting even thofe to fuit their own fyftems, have built a fuperftructure which pleafes at a diftance, but upon nearer examination partakes of the illufive nature of a dream.   The learned, at laft grown tired of being deceived by the powers of rhetoric, and by fophiftical arguments, raifed a general cry after a fimplc collection of fadts* They had their wifh j facts were collected in all parts of the world, and yet knowledge was not incrcafed.   They received a confufed heap of disjointed limbs, which no art could reunite into a whole ; and the rage of hunting after facts foon rendered them incapable of forming and rcfolv-ing a fingle propofition ; like thofe minute enquirers, whofe life is wholly fpent in the anatomical diflcction of flies, from whence they never draw a fingle conclnfion for the ufe of mankind, or even of brutes.    Befides this, two travellers feldom faw the fame object: in the fame manner, and each reported the fact differently, according to his fenfa-
a z tions,
tions, and his peculiar mode of thinking.    It was therefore neceffary to be acquainted with the obferver, before any ufe could be made of his obfervations.   The traveller was no longer to trufl to chance for    variety of occurrences, but to make ufe of his fìrfl difcovery, as the thread of Ariadne, by the help of which he might guide his Heps through the labyrinth of human knowledge.  It was therefore requifite that he fhould have penetration fufficient to combine different facts, and to form general views from thence, which might in fome meafure guide him to new difcoveries, and point out the proper objects of, farther in-veftigation.   This was the idea with which I embarked on the late voyage round the world, and agreeably to which I have collected materials for the prefent publication, as far as the time, my fituation and abilities, would permit. I have always endeavoured in this narrative to connect the ideas arifing from different occurrences, in order, if poffible,, to throw more light upon the nature of the human mind,, and to lift the foul into that exalted flation, from whence the extenfive view muft " juilify the ways of God to man." Whether I have fucceeded or failed in the attempt, remains to be decided ; but the rectitude of the intention cannot, I truit, be mifconllrued.   I have fometimes obeyed the powerful dictates of my heart, and given voice to my feelings j for, as I do not pretend to be free from the weaknefies common
mon to my fellow-creatures, it was neceiTary for every reader to know the colour of the glafs through which I looked. Of this at leali I am certain, that a gloomy livid tinge hath never clouded my fight. Accuflomed to look on all the various tribes of men, as entitled to an equal filare of my good will, and confeious, at the fame time, of the rights which I pofiefs in common with every individual among them, 1 have endeavoured to make my remarks with a rctrofpect to our general improvement and welfare -7 and neither attachment nor avetfion to particular nations have influenced my praife or cenfure.
The degree of pleafure which may refult from the perufal of a work, depends not only upon the variety of the fubject, but likewife upon the purity and the graces of ftyle. We mull refign all pretentions to tafle and fentiment, if we did not prefer a well-told tale to a lame and tedious narration. Gf late, however, thejuft efteem in which an elegant diction is held, has been fo far abufed, that authors, relying on the fluency of their language, have paid no attention to the matter which they propofed, but deceived the public with a dry and uninftructive performance. Such writers may poflibly acquire the approbation of fome individuals,
" Who haunt ParnafTus but to plcafe their ear;'*
But lam convinced the generality of readers are always juftl enough to overlook, in fome meafure, the defects of fly le,,
in
x'lV
P     R     E    F     A     C E.
in favour of the novelty or Ufefulncfs of the fubject. Without attempting to be curioufly elegant, I have aimed at pcr-fpicuity and having paid the nricteft attention to this particular, I hope to meet with indulgence, if fome errors of lefs moment have cfcaped my notice. It was owing to the repeated corrections of fome valuable friends, to which I Submitted my manufcript, that I fent it late to the prefs ; but from the unexampled activity of the printer, I am enabled to lay my work before the public even fooner than I expected. The Chart, on which our line of circumnavigation is delineated, has been engraved by the ablefl artift in that-branch*, and I conftructed it with the mod minute attention from the bed authorities, which are mentioned in its margin. After fpecifying the above particulars, of which I thought it my duty to apprize the reader, it only remains to difcharge a promife made in the courfe of the work, refpeetingan account of the education and equipment of O-Mai in this country f. (See vol. I. p. 389.) In the narrow limits of a Preface I can only comprehend in a few lines the fubftance of what might furnifh an entertaining volume.   O-Mai* has been confidered either as remarkably
* Mr. W. Whitchurch, Pleafant -row, Iflington.
t The native of the Society Iflands brought over by captain Furneaux in the Adventure, and vulgarly called Omiah,
flupid,
ftupid, or very intelligent, according to the different allowances which were made by thofe who judged of his abilities. His language, which is deuitutc of every harfli confo-nant, and where every word ends in a vowel, had fo little exercifed his organs of fpeech, that they were wholly unfit to pronounce the more complicated Englifli-founds ; and this phyfical, or rather habitual defect:, has too often been mifconftrued. Upon his arrival in England, he was immediately introduced into genteel company, led to the moft fplendid entertainments of this great and luxurious metropolis, and prefented at court amidft a brilliant circle of the firft nobility. He naturally imitated that cafy and elegant politenefs which is fo prevalent in all thofe places, and which is one of the ornaments of civilized fociety j he adopted the manners, the occupations, and amufements of his companions, and gave many proofs of a quick perception and lively fancy. Among the inuances of his intelligence, I need only mention his knowledge of the game of chefs, in which he had made an amazing proficiency. The multiplicity of objects which crouded upon him, prevented his paying due attention to thofe particulars which would have been beneficial to himfelf and to his countrymen at his return. He was not able to form a general comprehenfive view of our whole civilized fyflem, and to abftract from thence what appeared mod flrikingly ufeful and applicable to the improvement of his country/ His
fenies
fenfes were charmed by beauty, fymmetry, harmony, and magnificence ; they called aloud for gratification, and he was accuflomed to obey their voice.   The continued round of enjoyments left him no time to think of his future life i and being deftitute of the genius of Tupaia, whofe fuperior abilities would have enabled him to form a plan for his own conduci, his understanding remained unimproved. It can hardly be fuppofed that he never formed a wifh to obtain fome knowledge of our agriculture, arts, and manufactures ; but no friendly Mentor ever attempted to cherifh and to gratify this wifh, much lefs to improve his moral character, to teach him our exalted ideas of virtue, and the fublime principles of revealed religion.   After having fpent near two years in England, and happily undergone inoccu-lation for the fmall pox *", he embarked with captain Cook in the Refolution, which failed from Plymouth in July 1776.    The various fcenes of debauchery, which are al-moft unavoidable in the civilized world, had not corrupted the natural good qualities of his heart.    At parting from his friends his tears flowed plentifully, and his filence and outward behaviour proved him deeply affected.   He carried with him an infinite variety of dreffes, ornaments, and other trifles, which are daily invented in order to fupply our
* This difeafe proved fatal to Aotourou, the native of O-Taheitcc, whom M. de Bougainville brought to France, and who received nearly the fame education as O-Mai'.
artificial
PREFACE.
xvii
artificial wants. His judgment was in its infant (late, and therefore, like a child, he coveted almoft every thing he faw, and particularly that which had amufed him by fome unexpected effect. To gratify his childifli inclinations, as it mould feem, rather than from any other motive, he was indulged with a portable organ, an electrical machine, a coat of mail, and a fuit of armour. Perhaps my readers expect to be told of his taking on board fome articles of real ufe to his country ; I expected it likewife, but was difappointcd. However, though his country will not receive a citizen from us much improved, or fraught with valuable acquifitions, which might have made him the benefactor, and perhaps the lawgiver of his people, flill I am happy to reflect, that the fliips which are once more fent out upon difcovery, are deftined to carry the harmlefs natives of Taheitee a prefent of new domeftic animals. The introduction of black cattle and fheep on that fertile ifland, will doubtlcfs incrcafe the happinefs of its inhabitants ; and this gift may hereafter be conducive, by many intermediate caufes, to the improvement of their intellectual faculties. And here I cannot but ob-fcrve, that confidering the fmall expence at which voyages of difcovery are carried on*, the nation which favours thefe enterprizes is amply repaid by the benefit derived to our fellow-creatures.    I cannot help thinking that our late voy-
* T he whole expence of the voyage in which I embarked did not execeed the fum of 25000/. including all extraordinary difturfctnents.
Vol. I. b age
age would reflect immortal honour on our employers, if it had no other merit than flocking Taheitee with goats, the Friendly Iiles and New Hebrides with dogs, and New Zee-land and New Caledonia with hogs.   It is therefore fin-cerely to be wifhed, that voyages of difcovery, upon a dif-intereited plan, may ft ill be profecuted with vigour, as much remains to be done, even in the South Sea ; unlefs it mould be in the power of illiberal men to defeat the great and generous views of a monarch, who is juflly called the patron of fcience.   A fingle remark, which may be of extensive ufe to pofterity j a fingle circumflance, which may make happy our fellow-creatures in thofe remote parts of the world, repays the toils of the navigation, and bellows that great reward, the confeioufnefs of good and noble actions.
London, March I, J777.
G. FORSTER.
CONTENTS
BOOK I.
■%
Chap. I.   Departure. — Pajfage from Plymouth  to Madeira. — Defeription of that Ifland, p. I
Chap. II.   The Pajfagefrom Madeira to the Cape Verd Iflands, and
from thence to the Cape of Good Hope, 28
Chap. III. Stay at the Cape of Good Hope.—Account of that Set-tlement, 58
Chap. IV. Run from the Cape to the Antarctic Circle; firjl Seafon fpent in high Southern Latitudes*—Arrival on the Coaft of New Zeeland, 86
Chap. V. Stay at Dujky Bay ; Defer iption of it, and Account of our Tranfafiions there, 123
Chap. VI. Pajjagcfrom Dujky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound.— Junélion with the Adventure.—TranfaEiions during our Stay there,
189
Chap. VII.   Run from New Zeeland to O-Tabeitee, 232
Chap. VIII. Anchorage in 0-Aitepeha Harbour, on the lejfer Penin-fula of O-Taheitee.—Account of our Stay there.—Removal to Ma-tavdi Bay, 253
Chap.
CONTENTS.
Chap. IX. Account of our Tranfaflions at Matavai Bay, 323 Chap. X.   Account of our Trattfactions at the Society Iflands* 369
BOOK II.
Chap. I.   Run from the Society IJles to the Friendly IJles, with an Account of our Tranfactions there, 418
Chap. II.   Courfe from the Friendly IJles to New Zeeland.—Separa-tion from the Adventure.—Second Stay in Queen Charlotte s Sound,
482
Chap. III.   The fecond Courfe towards the high Southern Latitudes*, from New Zeeland to Eafler Ifland, 527
Chap. IV. An Account of Eafler Ifland, and our Stay there, 556
A
VOYAGE
ROUND THE
W      O      R      L D.
BOOK I.
CHAP. l
Departure—-Pajfage  from Plymouth   to   Madeira—Defer iption of
that Ifland.
Ubi animus ex multis miferiis atque periculis requievit,—-ftatui res geftas—per-fcribere j tamen (hoc) imprimis arduum videtur,—quia plerique, qua delicia reprehenderis, malivolentia et invidia putant ; ubi de magna virtutc et gloria honorum memores, quae fibi quifquc facilia factu putat, jequo animo accipit ; fupra ea, veluti ficia, pro falfis ducit. Sallust.
1772. Juke
AVOYAGE to explore the high fouthern latitudes of TUurfday n our globe was refolved upon, foon after the return of the Endeavour in 17 7 1. Two (lout veffels, the Refolu-tion and the Adventure, were fitted as King's (loops for that purpofe, and the command of them given to Capt. James Cook and Capt. Tobias Furneaux. On the 1 1 th of June, 1772, my father and myfelf were appointed to embark in this expedition, in order to collect, defcribe, and draw Vol. L B the
i77*. June. tjie 0bjec->3 0f natural hiftory which we might expect to meet with during our courfe. We prepared with the ut-moft alacrity for this arduous undertaking, and in the
Saturday 20. fpace of nine days fent all our baggage on board the Refolution, then at Sheernefs, but which failed from thence
Monday a*.    for Plymouth on the 22d of June.
Wc left London on the 26th, and in two Days reached Plymouth, where the Refolution was not yet arrived. The ill of July, we went on board the Augufia Tack, and waited on the Earl of Sandwich, then Firft Lord Commiffioner for executing the office of High Admiral. His Lordfliip expecting the Refolution to come into Plymouth Sound" that day, defired us to be on board of her, between the hours of live and fix in the evening. However, to our great difappointment, fhe did not appear, and his Lordfhip left Plymouth the next morning.
Friday j.*' The 3d of July early, we faw the Refolution lying in the Sound, where fhe had arrived tbe night before. Captain Cook purpofed to flay here eight or ten days, and gave orders, that fome neceftary fhelvcs fhould be fixed up in our cabins previous to our reception on board. The delire of letting pafs no opportunity for the improvement of fcience, and for our own instruction, prompted us to pafs thefe leifure hours in vifiting the tin mines in Cornwall. Having fatisfied our curiofity, and being both highly en-
wednefdiy s. tertained and much inflrueted by the fight of the rich ex-
tenfive
tenfive works at Poldyce and Kenwyn, we returned to Vly~ mouth on the 8th of July.
On Saturday the i ith, we went on hoard the Refolution Saturday floop, which was now to fail with the firft fair wind. The next day it blew a frefh gale; and my father, walking on Sunday»: the quarter-deck, obferved our velici to alter her pofition considerably in regard to the Adventure (which was to accompany us on our voyage) and to a maft-fhip, both at anchor in the Sound j at the fame time taking notice that fhe approached the rocks under the caflle.    He immediate-ly communicated his apprehenfions to Mr. Gilbert, the mailer, who happened to be upon deck with him. The rnafter found, that the veflel having been moored to one of the tranfport buoys in the Sound, the buoy, not intended to fupport fuch a violent flrain,   had broke from its ground tackle, and was adrift together with the floop. In an inftant all hands were on deck, the fails fpread, and the cables cleared.   We fhot pad the Adventure and maft-fliip, and came to an anchor,  after efcaping the mod imminent danger of being dafhed againft the rocks under the fort.   Our feamen looked upon this fortunate event, as an omen favourable to the fuccefs of the voyage, while we could not avoid reflecting on the tutelar guidance of divine Providence, which had thus manifested itfelf in a critical moment, that might eafily have put an effectual
B 2 fl°P
17711 JULV* flop to our projects f. We (hall, in the courfe of this hiftory, find frequent inftances of impending deflruction, where all human help would have been ineffectual, if our better fortune had not prevailed under the fuperior direction of him, without whofe knowledge not a fingle hair falls from our heads. We are ever ready to give due applaufe and do full juflicc to the great fkili and good conduct of our able circumnavigators, but we cannot avoid attributing every thing to its proper fource, and that efpecially to a higher power, which human art, though aided by effrontery and irreligion, dares not vindicate to itfelf.
Monday^. Early on Monday the 13th, we fct fail from Plymouth Sound, in company with the Adventure. 1 turned a parting look on the fertile hills of England, and gave way to the natural emotions of affection which that profpect awakened ; till the beauty of the morning, and the novelty of gliding through the fmooth water attracted my attention, and difperfed the gloominefs of former ideas. We foon palled by Eddijìone lighthoufe, a lofty and well-contrived tower, which is of the greateit advantage to navigation and commerce. It was impofiible to look at it, without fhuddering with apprehenfions for *he lonely
•# That It is not uncommon for (hips, under the fame circumftances as the Refolution (loop, to take confiderable damage, appears from what happened to the Aldborough, May 19, 1776, which broke from the buoys in the fame manner, but drove afhore on Drake's ifland, and was bulged to pieces.
keepers,
keepers, who are often obliged to pafs three months there, 177u JULY deprived of all communication with the main-land. The fate of Win/lanky, who was really crufhed by the downfall of a former firuchires which he himfelf had built on this rock, and the vibrations of the prefent tower, when winds and waves affail it, mull give them ftrong fears of a dreadful and fudden end.
In proportion as we flood off fhore, the wind encreafed, the billows rofe higher, and the vefiel rolled violently from fide to fide. Thofe who were not ufed to the fea, nay fome of the oldeft mariners, were affected by the fea-fick-nefs, in various degrees of violence. It was of different duration with different perfons, and after it had continued three days amongfl us, we found the greatefl relief from red port wine mulled, with, fpices and fugar..
On the 20 th, we fell, in with Cape Ortegal, on the coaft Monday ae-of Gatticia in Spain j the -natives call it Ortiguera, and it. was probably the Vromontorium Trileucum of the ancients. The country hereabouts is hilly ; where the naked rock appears it is white, and the tops of the mountains are covered with wood. I alfo obferved fome corn-fields almofl ripe, and fome fpors which feemed to be covered with heath. The cagernefs with which every body gazed at this land, power-, fully perfuaded me, that mankind were not meant to be amphibious animals, and that of courfe our prefent fitua-,
tion.i
ttm    jvly.    t'on an    UnnatUlal .    an   jc|ea    tnat    fe€ms   t0 navc
occurred to Horace, when he fays,
Necquicquam Deus abfcidit
Prudens oceano dillodabili Terras } fi tamen impize
Non tangenda rates tranfiliunt vada. HoR.
In vain did Nature's wife command Divide the waters from the land, If daring fhips and men profane,
Invade th' inviolable main. Dryden.
Wcdnefdayza. On the 2 2d, we faw the lighthoufe near Corunna, or, as our failors abfurdly call it, the Groyn. It was perfectly calm, the water fmooth as a mirror, and the hilly pro-fpect very agreeably varied by corn-fields, inclofures, fmall hamlets, and gentlemen's feats, every thing confpiring to banifli the remains of the fea-ficknefs entirely from amongft us, and to bring back that chearfulnefs which could not well keep company with empty flomachs and a tempefluous fea. In the evening we were near a fmall tartan, which we took to be a fiihing vefTel from the Spanifh coaft ; and in that perfuafiòn, a boat was hoiued out and fent towards her, in order, if pofnbte, to purchafe fonie fieih firn. In going thither we obferved the whole furface of the fea every where covered with myriads of little crabs, not above an inch in diameter,  which we
found
found were of the fpecies called cancer depiirator by Liu- 'v*- July* naeus. The little vcfTel proved to be a French tartan from Marfeilles, of about roo tons burden, freighted with flour for Ferro! and Corunna. The people in her begged for a fmall fupply of freGi water, having been driven far from their courfe by contrary winds during two months, by which means this neceflary article had been exhaufled above a fortnight ago, and they were reduced to live upon bread and a little wine. Whilfl they continued in this diftrefsful fituation, they had met with
feveral fhips at fea, and efpecially with feveral Spanifh men of war, though none had been humane enough to alleviate their fullerings. When the officer who commanded our boat heard this account, he fent their empty barrels on board our velTel to be filled with frefli water, and their eyes fparkled with the livelieft expreflion of joy when they received it. They thanked Heaven and us, and rejoiced that they fhould now be able to light their fire again, and be comforted with fome boiled provifions, after their long abftinence. So true is it, that a man with a feeling humane heart, may often, at a very cheap rate, indulge the inclination to aflifl his fellow-creatures.
The next afternoon, three Spanifh men of war pafTed Thxirkhynt us, flanding in for Ferrol.    One of them feemed to be a 74 gun fhip, and the two others carried about 60 guns each.    The flernmofl firft hoifted Englifh colours, but
when
LY' when we fhewcd ours, (lie hauled them down, fired a gun to leeward, and hoifted the Spanifh enfign. Soon after fire fired a fhot at the Adventure; but as we kept Handing on, the Spaniard put about, and fired another fhot jufl a-hcad of her. In confequencc of this, our velTel brought to, and the Adventure now feemed only to follow our example. The Spaniard then hailed the Adventure in Englifh, and afked li what frigate that was a-head," (meaning our floop] ; and having been fatisfied in that particular, he would not an-fwer a queftion of the fame nature, which was put to him, but always replied, / wifb you a good voyaged We continued our courfe, after a fecne fo humiliating to the matters of the fea, and palled Cape Fini/lerre during night.
Several porpefTes paflèd us on the 25th, all fwimming againft the wind, which had been north-eaflerly ever fince we had left Cape Finifterre. At night the fea appeared luminous, particularly the tops of the waves and part of the fliip's wake, which were illuminated by a mafs of pure light : but; independent of that, there appeared numerous little fparks infinitely brighter than any other part of this phenomenon.
8. On the 28 th, at fix of the clock in the morning, we difcovered Porto-San to, which is about five or fix leagues long, barren and thinly inhabited. It has only one Villa or town, of the fame name, fituated on the eaflern fide, in a valley which is entirely cultivated, and appeared to
have
have a fine verdure from the numerous vineyards it con-tains. This little iiland is under the orders of the governor of Madeira, and the number of its inhabitants amounts to about feven hundred.
Soon after we made Madeira and the Ilhas Desertas, corruptly called the Dcferters by our feamen. The town of Santa Cruz in Madeira was abreaft of us at fix in the after-noon. The mountains are here interfered by numerous deep glens and vallies. On the floping ground we ob-ferved feveral country-houfes pleafantly fituated amidft furrounding vineyards and lofty cypreflcs, which give the country altogether a romantic appearance. We were towed to the road of Funchal in a perfect calm, and came to an anchor in the dark-Early on the 29th, we were agreeably furprifed with wednefday** the piciurefque appearance of the city of Funchal, which is built round the bay, on the gentle afcent of the firft hills, in form of an amphitheatre. All its public and private buildings are by this means fet oil to advantage. They are in general entirely white, many of them twTo ilories high, and covered with low roofs, from whence they derive that elegant eaflern ftile, and that fimplicity, of which our narrow buildings with fleep roofs, and numerous Hacks of chimnies are utterly defiitute. On the fea fiele are feveral batteries and platforms with cannon. An old calile, which commands the road, is fituated on the Vol. I. C top
top of a deep black rock, furrounded by the fea at high-water, and callecj by the Englifh Loo-rock. On a neigh* bouring eminence above the town there is another, called San Joao do Pico, or St. John's caftle. The hills beyond the town ferve to complete the beauty of the landfcape, being covered with vineyards, inclofures, plantations5 and groves, interfperfed with country-houfes and feveral churches. The whole feemed to raife the idea of a fairy-garden, and enabled us to form fome conception of the hanging gardens of queen Semiramis.
About feven o'clock a boat came off to us called the Pratique-boat, having on board a Capitan do Sal, who is one of the two Guarda-Mores of the board of health, appointed to regulate the quarantine of fuch (hips as come from the coafl of Barbary, the Arches, and other parts fufpecicd of infectious diflempers. This gentleman enquired into the fiate of health of our fhip's company, and the place we came from, and returned on fhore with fatisfactory information on this fubjecl.
After breakfafl we landed, and went with the captains to the houfe of Mr. Loughnan, a Britifli merchant, who fupplied the king's fliips, as contractor, with all the ne-cefTaries. The conful, Mr. Murray, lately appointed, was not yet arrived, but Mr. Loughnan received us with fuch hofpitality and elegance, as do honour to himfelf and to the nation in general.
The
The city is far from anfwering the expectations which may be formed from its appearance towards the road. Its ftreets are narrow, ill-paved, and dirty ; the houfes are built of frecftone, or of brick, but they are dark, and only a few of the beft, belonging to Englilli merchants or principal inhabitants, are provided with glafs-windows ; all the others have a kind of lattice work in their Head, which hangs on hinges and may be lifted up occafionally. The ground floors are moflly appropriated for the ufe of fervants, for fliops, and flore-houfes.
The churches and monasteries are very plain buildings, without any difplay of the architectonic art : their infide exhibits a finking want of tafle ; the little light which is admitted into them, ferving only to difplay heaps of tinfel ornaments, arranged in a manner which is trucly Gothic. The convent of Francifcan friars is clean and fpacious, but their gardens feemed not to be kept in the beft order. The nuns of Santa Clara politely received us at their grate, but afterwards deputed fome old women, to offer the artificial flowers of their manufacture for fale.
We walked with Mr. Loughnan to his country-feat, which is fituated on the hills, about a mile from the city. We there met an agreeable company of the principal Britifli merchants eftablifhed at Madeira. The captains returned on board in the evening, but we accepted of Mr. Lough-nan's obliging offer of his houfe during our fhort flay.
C 2 Our
Our excurfions began the next morning, and were continued on the following day.    At five o'clock in the
Friday 31.
morning we went upwards along the courfe of a fire am, to the interior hilly part of the country. About one o'clock in the afternoon we came to a chefnut grove, fomc-what below the highefl fummit of the ifland, having walked about fix miles from Mr. Loughnan's houfe. The air was here remarkably cooler than below, and a fine breeze contributed to its temperature. We now engaged a negro to become our conductor, and after a walk of at leafl an hour and a half, we returned to our hofpitable raanfion.
August.      The next day we prepared for our departure.   It was
Saturday 1.
with regret that I left this delightful fpot, and fuch generous friends, who know how to enjoy the unfpeak-able pleafure of communicating happinefs to their fellow-citizens of the world. My heart ftill preferves thofe fen-timents of gratitude and efleera, which made me loth to part from hence, and to refign myfelf to the common fate of travellers. I was however, pleafed to find BritifTt hofpitality exifling abroad, which Sraollet could no longer trace in England *.
Before I leave this ifland, I fhall ofTcr fuch remarks, as I had an opportunity of collecting during my flay ; and I am induced to believe they will prove acceptable,
• Vide Humphry Clinker, vol. I. page 102.
as
as they were communicated by fenfible Englifhmen, who A^7*;T.
had been inhabitants of Madeira for many years, and
are therefore of the beft authority.   I am aware indeed,
that an account of Madeira may by fome be looked upon
as a fuperfluous work ; but if, upon a candid perufal,
it is found to contain fuch obfervations as have not
yet  appeared in the numerous journals of navigators,
I hope I fliall not need a farther apology.   It is very
natural to overlook  that which is near home, and as
it were within our reach, efpecially when the mind looks
forward, on difcoveries which it reckons more important,
in proportion as they are more remote.
The ifland of Madeira is about 55 Englifh miles long, and ten miles broad, and was firft difcovered on the 2d of July, in the year 1419, by Joao Gonzales Zarco, there being no hiftorical foundation for the fabulous report of its difcovery by one Machia an Englifhman. It is divided into two eapitamasy named Funchal and Maxico^ from the towns of thofe names. The former contains two judicatures, viz. Funchal and Calbetta, the latter being a town with the title of a county, belonging to the family of Caftelh Melhor. The fecond capitaria likewife comprehends two judicatures, viz. Maxico (read Mafliico) and San Vicente.
Funchal is the only cidade or city in this ifland, which has alfo feven villas or towns ; of which there are four, Calhetta, Camara de Lobos, Riùiera braba, and Font a de Sol in the
capitarne (
capitania of Funchal, which is divided into twenty-fix parifhes. The other three are in the capitania of Maxico, which confift of feventeen pariflies j thefe towns are called Maxico, San Vicente^ and Santa Cru%,
The governor is at the head of all the civil and military departments of this ifland, of Porto-Santo, the Salvages, and the Mas Defertas, which lafl only contain the temporary huts of fome fiihermen, who rcfort thither in purfuit of their bufinefs. At the time when I was at Madeira, the governor was Don Joao Antonio de Saa Pereira. He was efleemed a man of good fenfe and temper, but rather referved and cautious.
The law department is under the corregidor, who is appointed by the king of Portugal, commonly fent from Lifbon, and holds his place during the king's pleafure. All caufes come to him from inferior courts by appeal. Each judicature has a fenate, and a Ji/iz or judge, whom they choofe, prefides over them. At Funchal he is called, Juiz da Fora, and in the abfencc, or after the death of the corregidor, acts as his deputy. The foreign merchants elect their own judge, called the Prcvidor, who is at the &mc time, collector of the king's cuftoms and revenues, which amount in all to about one hundred and twenty thoufand pounds flerling. Far the greatefl part of this fum is applied towards the falarics of civil and military officers, the pay of troops, and the maintenance of public
buildings.
buildings. This revenue arifcs, firft from the tenth of all ^IwTi the produce of this iiland belonging to the king, by virtue of his office as grand mailer of the order of Chrilt ; fecondly, from ten per cent, duties laid on all imports, provifions excepted ; and lallly, from the eleven per cent, charged on all exports.
The iiland has but one company of regular foldiers of a hundred men : the reft of the military force is a militia confiding of three thoufand men, divided into companies, each commanded by a captain, who has one lieutenant under him, and one enfign. There is no pay given to either the private men, or the officers of this militia, and yet their places are much fought after, on account of the rank which they communicate. Thefe troops are embodied once a year, and exercifed during one month. All the military arc commanded by the Serjeante MCr. The governor has two Caphanos de Sal about him, who do duty as aides-de-camp.
The fecularpriefts on the iiland are about twelve hundred, many of whom are employed as private tutors. Since the ex-pulfion of the Jefuits, no regular public fchool is to be found here, unlefs we except a feminary where a prieft, appointed for that purpofe, inftructs and educates ten ftudents at the king's expence. Thefe wear a red cloak over the ufual black gown, worn by ordinary ftudents. All thofe who intend to go into orders, arc obliged to qualify
them-
themfclves by fludying in the univerfuy of Coimbra, lately rc-eftablifhed in Portugal. There is alfo a dean and chapter at Madeira, with a bifhop at their head, whofe income is confiderably greater than the governor's ; it coniifls of one hundred and ten pipes of wine, and of forty ?nuy$ of wheat, each containing twenty-four bufhels; which amounts in common years to three thoufand pounds flcrling. Here are likewife fixty or feventy Francifcan friars, in four monailerics, one of which is at Funchal. About three hundred nuns live on the ifland, in four convents, of the orders of Merci, Sta. Clara, Incarnalo, and Bom Jefus. Thofe of the lad-mentioned inflitution may marry whenever they choofe, and leave their monaliery.
In the year 1768, the inhabitants living in the forty-three pariihes of Madeira, amounted to 63,913, of whom there were 31,341 males, and 32,572 females. But in that year 5243 perfons died, and no more than 2198 children were born ; fo that the number of the dead exceeded that of the born by 3045/ It is highly probable that fome epidemical diflemper carried oil fo difpropor-tionatc a number in that year, as the ifland would fhortlybe entirely depopulated, if the mortality were always equal to this. Another circumflance concurs to flrengthen this fup-pofition, namely, the excellence of the climate. The weather is in general mild and temperate : In fummer the heat is very moderate on the higher parts of the illand,
whither
whither the better fort of people retire for that feafon ; a'(77u\'t. and in winter the fnow remains there for feveral clays, whilft it is never known to continue above a day or two in the lower parts. The accuracy of the numbers of dead and born, may however be entirely depended upon, as a complete lift extracted from the parifh books was procured for us, from the governor's fecrctary.
The common people of this ifland are of a tawny colour, and well fhaped, though they have large feet, owing perhaps to the efforts they are obliged to make in climbing the craggy paths of tins mountainous country. Their faces are*oblong, their eyes dark; their black hair naturally falls in ringlets, and begins to crifp in fome individuals, which may perhaps be owing to intermarriages with negroes ; in general they are hard featured, but not difagrceable. Their women are too frequently ill-favoured, and want the florid complexion, which, when united to a pleafing aflemblage of regular features, gives our Northern fair ones the fuperiority over all their fcx. They arc fmall, have prominent check-bones, large feet, an ungraceful gair, and the colour of the darkeft brunette. The jufl proportions of their body, the fine form of their hands, and their large, lively eyes, feem in fome mcafure to compenfate for thofe defects. The labouring men in fummcr, wear linen trowfers, a coarfe ihirt,  a large hat,  and boots; fome had a fhort jacket
Vol. I. D made
made of cloth, and a long cloak, which they fometimes carried over their arm. The women wear a petticoat, and a fliort corfelet or jacket, clofely fitting their fhape, which is a fimple, and often not inelegant drefs. They have alfo a fhort, but wide cloak, and thofe that are unmarried, tie their hair on the crown of their head, on which they wear no covering.
The country people are exceeding fober and frugal \ their diet in general confifling of bread and onions, or other roots, and little animal food. However, they avoid eating tripe, or any offals, becaufe it is proverbially faid of a very poor man, " he is reduced to eat tripef Their common drink is water, or an infufion on the remaining rind or fkin of the grape (after it has pafTed through the wine-prefs) which when fermented, acquires fome tartnefs and acidity, but cannot be kept very long. The wine for which the ifland is fo famous, and which their own hands prepare, feldom if ever regales them.
Their principal occupation is the planting and railing of vines, but as that branch of agriculture requires little attendance during the greatefl; part of the year, they naturally incline to idlencfs. The warmth of the climate, which renders great provifion againft the inclemencies of weather unneceffary, and the eafe with which the cravings of appesite are fatisfied, mufl tend to indolence, wherever the regulations of the legiflature do not coun-
^ teraci:
teracT. it, by endeavouring with* the profpect of encreafing A,J|£V-happinefs, to infufe the fpirit of induftry. It feems the Portuguefe government does not purfue the proper methods againft this dangerous lethargy of the ftate. They have lately ordered the plantation of olive-trees here, on fuch fpots as are too dry and barren to bear vines i but they have not thought of giving temporary afnftance to the labourers, and have offered no premium by which thefe might be induced to conquer their reluctance to innovations, and averilon to labour.
The vineyards are held only on an annual tenure, and the farmer reaps but four tenths of the produce, fince four other tenths arc paid in kind to the owner of the land, one tenth to the king, and one to the clergy. Such fmall profits, joined to the thought of toiling merely for the advantage of others, if improvements were attempted, entirely preclude the hopes of a future increafe. Op~ preffed as they are, they have however preferved a high degree of chearfulnefs, and contentment; their labours are commonly alleviated with fongs, and io the evening they aflemble from different cottages, to dance to the drowfy mufic of a guittar.
The inhabitants of the towns are more ill-favoured than the country people, and often pale and lean. The men wear French cloaths, commonly black, which do not feem to fit them, and have been in fafhion in the polite
D 2 world
world about half a century ago. Their ladies are delicate, and have agreeable features ; but the characteristic jealoufy of the men Hill locks them up, and deprives them of a happinefs which the country women, amidft all their diilrcffes, enjoy. Many of the better people, are a fort of petite noblejje, which we would call gentry, whofe genealogical pride makes them unfociable and ignorant, and caufes a ridiculous affectation of gravity. The landed property is in the hands of a few ancient families, who live at Funchal, and in the various towns on the ifland.
Madeira confifls of one large mountain, whofe branches rife every where from the fea towards the centre of the iile, converging to the fummit, in the midfl of which, I was told, is a depreffron or excavation, called the Val by the inhabitants, always covered with a frefh and delicate herbage. The ftones on the ifle, which we examined, feemed to have been in the fire, were full of holes, and of a blackifh colour; in fhort, the greater part of them were lava. A few of them were of the kind which the Derby-fhirc miners call dunftone. The foil of the whole ifland is a tarras mixed with fome particles of clay, lime, and fand, and has much the fame appearance as fome earths we fince found on the ifle of Afcenfion. From this circumftance, and from the excavation of the fummit of the mountain, I am induced to fuppofe, that in fome remote period, a volcano has produced the lava, and the
ochreous
ochreous particles, and that the Val was formerly its A^J*;r. crater. At firft fight of Madeira I was of a different opinion ; but the black Loo-rock, the cliff on which St. John's cattle Rands, the nature of the foil and flones, and the fituation of the Val, convinced me, that the whole had formerly undergone a violent change by fire.
Many brooks and fmall rivulets defcend from the fum~ mits in deep chafms or glens, which feparate the various-parts of the ifle. We could not however perceive any plains mentioned   by others *, through  which  the waters
would probably have taken their courfe, if any fuch had exifted. The beds of the brooks are in fome places covered with flones of all fizes, carried down from the higher parts by the violence of winter rains or floods of melted fnow. The water is conducted by wears and channels into the vineyards, where each proprietor has the ufe of it for a certain time ; fome being allowed to keep a con-flant fupply of ir, fome to ufe it thrice, others twice, and others only once a week. As the heat of the climate renders this fupply of water to the vineyards abfolutely neceffary, it is not without great expence that a new vineyard can be planted ; for the maintenance of which, the owners muli purchafe water at a high price, from thofe,
^ See an a
ccount of the Voyages undertaken by the order of his prefent Majefty, and fuccefllvely performed by the Captains Byron, Wallis, Carteret,, and Cook.—Compiled by Dr.Hawkefvvorth. Vol, II. P. %
who*
Avcmv, are con^antly fupplied, and arc thus enabled to
fpare fome of it.
Wherever a level piece of ground can be contrived in the higher hills, the natives make plantations of eddoes (arum efculentum, Linn.) enclofed by a kind of dyke to caufe a flagnation, as that plant fucceeds beft in fwampy ground. Its leaves ferve as food for hogs, and the country people ufe the roots for their own nouriHiment.
The fweet potatoe   {convolvulus batatas)  is  planted for the fame purpofe, and makes a principal article of diet ; together with chefnuts, which grow in extenfive woods, on the higher parts of the iiland, where the vine will not thrive.   Wheat and barley are likewife fown, efpecially in fpots where the vines are decaying through age, or where they are newly planted.   But the crops do not produce above three months provisions, and the inhabitants are therefore obliged to have recourfe to other food, beiides importing confiderable quantities  of corn from North-America in exchange for wine.   The want of manure, and the inactivity of the people, are in fome meafure the caufes of this difadvantage ; but fuppofing hufbandry to be carried to its perfection here, I believe they could not raife corn fuflicient for their confumption.    They make their threiliing-floors of a circular form, in a corner of the field, which is cleared and beaten folid for the purpofe. The fhcaves are laid round about ir, and a fquare board
fluck
duck full of (harp flints bef^w, is dragged over them by *$&V( a pair of oxen, the driver getting on it to encreafc its weight.   This machine cuts the ftraw as if it had been chopped, and frees the grain from the hulk, from which it is afterwards feparated.
The great produce of Madeira is the wine, from whicb it has acquired fame and fupport. Where the foil, ex-pofure, and fupply of water will admit of it, the vine is cultivated. One or more walks, about a yard or two* wide,   interfec~fc each vineyard, and arc included by fton£-
walls two feet high. Along thefe walks, which are arched over with laths about feven feet high, they ereóf. wooden pillars at regular diftances, to fupport a lattice-work of bamboos, which Hopes down from both fides of the walk, till it is only a foot and a half or two feet high, in which elevation it extends over the whole vineyard. The vines are in this manner fupported from the ground, and the people have room to root out the weeds which fpring up between them. In the feafon of the vintage they creep under this lattice-work, cut off the grapes, and lay them into bafkets : fome bunches of thefe grapes I faw, which, weighed fix pounds and upwards. This method of keeping the ground clean and moifl, and ripening the grapes-in the fhade, contributes to give the Madeira wines that excellent flavour and body for which they are remarkable. The owners of vineyards are however obliged to allot a
certain*
certain fpot of ground for the growth of bamboos ; for the lattice-work cannot be made without them ; and I was told fome vineyards lay quite neglected for want of this ufeful reed.
The wines are not all of equal goodnefs, and confe-quently of different prices. The bcfl, made of a vine imported from Candia, by order of the Infante of Portugal, Don Henry, is called Madeira Malmfey, a pipe of which cannot be bought on the fpot for lefs than 40 or 42 /. fter-ling. It is an exceeding rich fwcet wine, and is only made in a fmall quantity. The next fort is a dry wine, fuch as is exported for the London market, at 30 or 31 /. flerling the pipe. Inferior forts for the Eaft India, Wcfl India, and North-American markets, fell at 28, 25, and zo I flerling. About thirty thoufand pipes, upon a mean, are made every year, each containing one hundred and ten gallons. About thirteen thoufand pipes of the better forts are exported, and all the *c(l is made into brandy for the Brazils, converted into vinegar, or confumed at home.
The enclofurcs of the vineyards confili of walls, and hedges of prickly pear, pomegranates, myrtles, brambles, and wild rofes. The gardens produce peaches, apri-cots3 quinces, apples, pears, walnuts, chefnuis, and many other European fruits ; together with now and then fome tropical plants, fuch as bananas, goavas, and pine apples.
All
All the common domeflic animals of Europe are like-wife found at Madeira ; and their mutton and beef, though fmall, is very well tailed. Their horfes are fmall, but fure-footedj and with great agility climb the difficult paths, which are the only means of communication in the country. They have no wheel-carriages of any kind ; but in the town they ufe a fort of drays or fledges, formed of two pieces of plank joined by crofs pieces, which make an acute angle before ; thefe are drawn by oxen, and are ufed to tranfport calks of wine, and other heavy goods, to and from the warehoufes.
The animals of the feathered tribe, which live wild here, are more numerous than the wild quadrupeds ; there being only the common grey rabbet here, as a rcprefen-tative of the lafl-mentioned clafs. We obferved the fpar-row-hawk, (falco nifusj j feveral crows, (corvus corone) ; magpies, (corvus -pica) ; iky and wood-larks, (alauda arvenfìs, & arborea) ; flarlings, (Jìurnus vulgaris) ; yellow hammers, (emberiza citrinella) ; common and mountain fparrows, (frin-gilla domefiica & montana) ; yellow wagtails and robin rcd-breafls, (motacilla flava & rubecula); and wild pigeons, of which we could not determine the fpecies. We likewife faw the houfe-fwallow and fwift, (hirundo ruflica # apus) ; and fome gentlemen of the Britifli factory aifurcd us they had alfo feen the martin, (A. urbica). This lafl genus of birds lives here all the winter, and only difappcars for a few
Vol, !• E days
AvUvlr, days in very cold weather, retiring to clifts and crevices of the rocks, and returning on the firfl fair funny day. The red-legged partridge, (tetrao rufusji is likewife common in the interior parts of the ifle, where it is not much difturb-ed. In Mr. Loughnan's aviary I faw waxbills, (hxla aftrild), chaffinches, goldfinches, yellowfinches, and canary-birds, (fringilla coekbs, cardueHsy butyracea, & canaria) ; all which had been caught upon this ifland. Tame birds, fuch as turkies, geefe, ducks, and hens, are very rare, which is perhaps owing to the fcarcity of corn.
There are no fnakes whatsoever in Madeira j but all the houfes, vineyards, and gardens fwarm with lizards. The friars of one of the convents complained, that thefe vermin deftroyed the fruit in their garden j they had therefore placed a brafs kettle in the ground to catch them, as they are conflantly running about in quefl of food. In this manner they daily caught hundreds, which could not get out on account of the fmooth fides of the kettle, but were forced to pcx'ifh.
The mores of Madeira, and of the neighbouring Salvages andDefcrtas, are not without fifli ; but as they are not in plenty enough for the rigid obfervance of Lent, pickled herrings are brought from Gothenburg in Englifh bottoms, and faked cod from New-York and other American ports, to fupply the deficiency.
We
We found a few infects here, and might perhaps have AH\%T, collected more, if our flay had been of longer duration ; thofe we met with were of known forts, and in no great variety. On this occafion I fhall mention a general remark, which ought to be applied to all the ijlands we have touched at during the courfe of our voyage. Quadrupeds, amphibious reptiles, and infects, are not numerous in ijlands, at fome diflance from a continent, and the flrfl are not to be met with at all, unlefs they were formerly tranfported thither by men. Fillies and birds, which are able to pafs through water or air, are more frequent, and in greater variety. Continents, on the other hand, are rich in the above-mentioned claffes of animals, as well as in thofe of birds and fifhes, which are more univerfaL Africa, which we viflted during this voyage, in a few weeks fupplied us with a great variety of quadrupeds, reptiles, and infects, whilfl all the other lands where wc touched, afforded no new difcoveries in thofe clalTes.
G HAP,
CHAP. II.
The Pafjage from Madeira to the Cape Ferd IfJandsy and from thence to the Cape of Good Hope.
august. ATE in the evening on the firfl of Auguft, we got
under fail, in company with the Adventure. A Nonhead wind forwarded our courfe fo well, that we got fight Tucfday 4. of Palma on the fourth, early in the morning. This iiland is one of the group now called the Canaries, known to the ancients by the name of Infida Fortunata:, one of them being already at that time diftinguiihed by the name of Canaria *. They were entirely forgotten in Europe, till towards the end of the fourteenth century, when the fpirit of navigation and difcovery was revived. Some adventurers  then found them again, and the Bifcayans
landed on  Lanzarota, and carried off one hundred and
X
• It is probable that not only the Canaries, but likewife Madeira, and Torto-Santo were known to the ancients ; a circumfrance from which it is pofiible to reconcile their various accounts of the number o£ thefe iflands. See Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. vi. cap. 37. The defcription given of them by ancient writers, agree with the modern accounts. See Vofiius in Pompon. Melajn. ad cap. x. v. 20. Ex iifdem quoque infulìs cinncibaris Romam advekebatur. Sane hodie etiamnum frequens efì in infilili fortunati* arbor ilia qua cinnabarin gignit. Vulgo San-guinem Draconis appellant,—We have Pliny's teftimony, lib. vi. cap. 36. that Juba, the Mauritanian king, dyed purple in fome of thefe ifles, oppofite to the Autololes in Africa.
feventy
fcvcnty of the natives. Luis de la Cerda, a Spanifh no- Ai7J^t bleman of the royal family of Cadile, in confequence of a bull from the Pope, in the year 1 344, aflumcd the title of Prince of the Fortunate Iflands, but never went to take poiTeffion of his eftates. Laiily, John, Baron de Bethen-court of Normandy, vifited thefe iflands again in the year 1402, took poileflion of feveral, and called himfelf King of the Canaries. His nephew ceded his claims upon them to Don Henry, Infante of Portugal ; but they were afterwards left to the Spaniards, who now poiTefs them.
The next day at five o'clock in the morning, we pafled wednefdays. the ifle of Ferro, remarkable only from this circumftance, that feveral geographers have reckoned their firft meridian from its weftermoft extremity. The fame day, being in about 27 deg. N. latitude, we obferved feveral flying fifhes, purfued by bonitos and dolphins, rifing out of the water in order to efcape from them. They were flying in all directions, and not againft the wind only, as Mr. Kalm feems to think. Neither did they confine themfelves to a ftrait-lined courfe, but frequently were feen to defcribe a curve. When they met the top of a wave as they fkimmed along the furfacc of the ocean, they pafied through, and continued their flight beyond it. From this time, till we left the torrid zone, we were almoft daily amufed with the view of immenfe flioals of thefe fifhes, and now and then caught one upon our
decks
hiulvir. decks when it had unfortunately taken its flight too far, and was fpent by its too great elevation above the furfacc of the fea. In the uniform life which we led between the tropics, where we found weather, wind, and fea, al-moft conflantly favourable and agreeable, the mind catchcd at every little circumflance that could give the hint to a reflection. When we faw the moft beautiful fifties of the fea, the dolphin and bonito, in purfuit of the flying fifh, and when thefe forfook their native element to feek for fhelter in air, the application to human nature was-obvious. What empire is not like a tumultuous ocean, where the great in all the magnificence and pomp of power, continually perfecute and contrive the deftruction of the defencelefs ?—Sometimes we faw this picture continued ftill farther, when the poor fugitives met with another fet of enemies in the air, and became the prey of birds *, by endeavouring to efcape the jaws of fifhes. Saturday?. On the 8th we obferved the fea to be of a whitifh colour, and tried for foundings, but found none with fifty fathoms of line. In the evening we crofTed the tropic of cancer. About this time, the captain ordered the fhip: to be fumigated with gunpowder and vinegar, having taken notice that all our books, and utenfils became co-
* Boobies {peiecanus pifcttor) 5 W»* of war birds (p. aquilus) ; and tropic birds (phatthon atbtrtus.)
vexed
vcred with mould, and all our iron and ucci though AJ7a7^T> ever fo little expofed, began to ruft.   Nothing is more probable than that the vapours, which now filled the air, contained fome faline particles, fince moiflure alone does not appear to produce fuch an effect; *.   If it be afked how any faline particles, generally fo much heavier than the aqueous, can be raifed in vapours, I leave it to the philofophers to determine, whether the numerous animal parts which daily  putrefy  in the ocean, do not fupply enough of the volatile alkali, by the afliftance of which the above phenomenon might be explained.   The great heat between the tropics feems to volatilife the marine acid contained in the brine and common fait : for it has been obferved, that on rags dipped in a folution of any one of the alkalies, and fufpended over one of the pans where brine is evaporated and fait is prepared, cryftals are foon formed of a neutral fait, compounded of the marine acid and the alkali in which the rags had been immerfed ; hence perhaps we may be allowed to infer, that the marine acid is by the heat of the tropical fun volatilifed, and in that aerial or vaporous form attacks the furface of iron and fteel \ nay, this little quantity of acid may perhaps, imbibed by the lungs, and pores of the fkin, become falu-tary ; in the firft cafe to people under pulmonary difeafes ;
* This opinion is very Judicioufly difculTed by Ellis, in his voyage to Hudfon's Bay,
and
avow. ana< m tae ^ccond by gently bracing the habit of bodies relaxed by a tropical heat, and moderating the too violent per fpi rat ion.
The infpiffatcd elTence of beer, of which we had feveral cafks on board, was obferved to be in motion before we left Madeira, and now began to burfl the cafks and run out. The captain ordering it to be brought on deck, its fermentation was encreafed by the addition of frefh air, and feveral of the calks had their heads forced out by the fermenting liquor, with an cxplofion like that of a fowling-piece. A kind of vapour, like fmoke, always preceded the eruption. A vefTel, firongly fumigated with fulphur, was, by my father's advice, filled with this effence, by which means the fermentation was flopped for a few days, but returned afterwards, efpecially in cafks expofed to the free accefs of air. Some cafks, which had been buried in the ballaft-fhinglc, were preferved and prevented from burfling. Perhaps the admixture of double- diftilled fpirit, might have hindered the progrefs of fermentation in this effencc. The beer made of it, by the fimple addition of warm water, was very good and palatable, though it had a little empyrcumatic tafle, caufed by the infpiflation.
Tucw.yu. Auguft the T i th, we difcovercd Bonavifla, one of the Cape-Verd iflands. The next morning, the weather cleared up, after a (hower of rain, and prefented to our fight the
ifle
ifle of Mayo.   About noon wc approached the ifle of San auJusV. Jago, and anchored at three o'clock in the afternoon in Porto-Pray a.
Early the next morning we went on fhore, and vifited Thurfday i3. the commandant of the fort, Don Jofeph de Sylva, a good-natured man, who fpoke the French imperfectly, and introduced us to the governor-general of the Cape-Verd iflands. This gentleman, whofe name was Don Joachim Salama Saldanha de Lobos, commonly refides at St. Jago, the capital of the ifland ; but as he was very flckly, which his
complexion witneflcd for him, he had retired hither about two months ago, where the air is reckoned more falubri-ous. He occupied the apartments of the commandant, who was now obliged to dwell in a wretched cottage, and who gave us fome information relative to thefe iflands.
In i 449, Antonio Nolli, probably by others named Anto-niotto, a Genoefe in the fervice of Don Henry, Infante of Portugal, difcovered fome of the Cape-Verd iflands, and on the firfl of May landed on one of them, which had its name from thence. St. Jago was feen at the fame time. In 1460, another voyage was undertaken in order to fettle them ; and on this occafion the remaining iflands were likewife difcovered. San Jago is the greatefl of them, and about feventecn leagues in length. The capital, of the fume name, lies in the interior parts of the country, and is the fee of the bifhop of all the Capc-
Vol. I. F Verd
Verd iflands. This ifle is divided into eleven parifhes, and; the moft populous of thefe contains about four thoufand houfes, fo that it is but very thinly inhabited.
Porto-Praya flands on a fleep rock, to which we climbed by a ferpentine path. Its fortifications are old decayed walls on the fea fide, and fences, fcarce breaft-high, made of loofc flones, towards the land. A fmall church is in-clofed within thefe walls, towards the fea ; but, befides ir, there are only a few cottages. A tolerable building, at a little diftance from the fort, belongs to a company of
merchants at Lifbon, who have the exclufivc right to trade to all the Cape-Verd iflands, and keep an agent here for that purpofe. When we made application to this indolent Don, by the Governor's direction, to be fupplied with live cattle, he indeed promifed to furnifh as many as we wanted, but we never got more than a fingle lean bullock. The company perfectly tyrannizes over the inhabitants, and fells them wretched merchandize at exorbitant prices.
The natives of St. Jago are few in number, of a middle dature, ugly, and al mod perfectly black, with frizzled woolly hair, and thick lips, like the mod ill-looking kind1 of negroes. The ingenious and very learned Canon Pauw, at Xanten, in his Recherches Philofophiques furies Americans, vol. I. p. 18 6. feems to take it for granted, that they arc the defcendants of the fird Portuguefe fettlers, gradually degenerated through nine generations (three
hundred
hundred years) to their prefent hue, which we found darker than he defcribes it. But whether, according to his and the Abbé de Manet's * opinion, this change of complexion was effected merely by the heat of the torrid zone, or whether they have acquired their fable colour by intermarriages with negroes from the adjacent coaft of Africa, is a queflion which I do not venture to decide, though fo able and judicious an inveftigator of nature as Count Buffon, aliens, that u the colours of the human fpecies depend principally on the climate.'' See Hifloire Naturelle,
in i 2mo, vol. VI. p. 260. At prefent there are very few white people among them, and I believe we did not fee above five or fix, including the governor, commandant, and company's agent. In fome of the iflands, even the governors and priefls are taken from among the blacks. The better fort of them wear ragged European cloaths, which they have obtained by barter from fhips that touched here, previous to the eftablifhment of the monopolizing company. The reft content themfelvcs with a few fepa-rate articles of drefs, either a fhirt, or a wavftcoai, or a pair of breeches, or a hat ; and feem to be well pleafed with their own appearance. The women are ugly, and wear a long flip or ftriped cotton over the moulders, hanging down to the knees before and behind j but children
* See his Nouvelle Hiftoire de 1'Afrique Francoife, enrich* de Cartes, Sec. a Paris, 1767, limo, vol. II. p. 224.
f 2 are
arc perfectly naked till  the age of puberty. Dcfpotic governors, bigotted priefls, and indolence on the part of the court of Lifbon, will always keep thefe people in a wretched fituation, beneath that of any community of negroes in Africa, and prevent them from increafmg their numbers, which arc the real wealth of a nation.    It is natural for people whofe folids arc relaxed in a fervid climate, to incline to iloth and lazinefs ; but they are confirmed in thefe vices, and mull become indifferent to improvement, when they know the attempt would only make their fituation  more  irkfome.     With a kind of gloomy infenfibility they give themfelves up to beggary,, the only fiate which can protect them from the greedy clutches of tyrannical mailers j and they lliun every labour, which mufl encreafe the treafures of others without benefit to themfelves ; and which only breaks in upon thofe hours of refi, that are now the folace of their precarious condition.     Such clouded profpects, that never admit a gleam of happinefs, cannot be incitements to marriage, and the difficulty of fupporting a wretched ex-iflence, is a fufficient reafon to decline the cares annexed to the relation of parents.    Let us add to this, that the dry foil, whofe fertility depends on the flated return of annual rains, is parched up whenever a drought takes place; all vegetation is then deftroyed, and an inevitable famine fuccceds.   It may be reafonably fuppofed, that the
experience
experience of fuch fatal periods, deters the inhabitants from indulging in the fweets of conjugal connections, when they mud apprehend that mifery, and perhaps the horrors of flavery, await their unhappy offspring *.
The Cape Verd iflands in general are mountainous, but their lower hills, which are covered with a fine verdure, have a very gentle declivity, and extcnfive vallies run between them. They are ill fupplied with water, which in many of them is only found in pits or wells. St, Jago has, however, a tolerable river running into the fea at Ribeira Grande, a town which takes its name from thence. At Porto-Praya there was only a fingle well fet round with loofe flones, and containing muddy brackifh water, in fuch fmall quantities, that we drew it quite dry twice a day. The valley by the fide of the fort fecms to have fome moiflure, and is planted here and there with cocoa-nut-palms, fugar-canes, bananas, cotton, goava, and papaw-trees ; but the greatefl part of it is over-run with various forts of brufhwood, and another is left for paflures.
* On our return to the Cape of Good Hope, in 1775, we were told of a general famine which had happened in the Cape-Verd iflands in 1773 and 1774, and which had rifen to fuch a height that hundreds of people had periflied for want. The commander of a Dutch fhip, which touched at St. Jago durine this diftrefs-u    a on,  received feveral of the natives, with their wives and children, who
fold themfelves t*\        • •        1 r        1     1 1       r c
to mm,  m order to efcape the dreadful confequences of want.
He carried them to the Cape of Good Hope, and fold them ; but when the Government there was informed of it, he wit ordered to redeem them at his own expence, to carry them back to their native country, and to bring a certificate from the Portuguefe governor,  importing the excution of thefe orders.
We
We may perhaps conclude from hence, that the Cape-Verd iflands in the hands of an active, enter] rifing, or commercial nation, would become interèfting and ufe-ful, and might be cultivated to the greateft advantage. The cochineal plant, indigo, fome fpices, and perhaps coffee, would thrive particularly well in this hot and parched climate ; and thefe productions would be fuf-ficient to fupply the natives not only with the receffaries, but likewife with the conveniencies and luxuries of life, under the benign influence of a free and equal government, like that under which we have the happinefs to live in this country. Inflead of feeding on a fcanty allowance of roots, we fhoild lee their board heaped with plenty, and convenient houfes would then fupply the place of wretched hovels.
Some of the lower hills were dry and barren, fcarce any plants growing upon them ; but others had flill fome verdure on them, though we were now at the end of the dry feafon. They are all covered with abundance of flones, which appear to have been burnt, and are a fpecies of lava. The foil, which is fertile enough in the vallies, is a kind of rubbifh of cinders, and ochreous allies ; and the rocks on the fea-fhore are likewife black and burnt. It is therefore probable, that this ifland has undergone a change from volcanic eruptions ; and it will not be deemed linreafonable to form the fame opinion of all the Cape-
Verd
Verd iflands, when we conilder that one of them, the avJvIt. ifland of Fuogo, dill confifts of a burning mountain. The interior mountains of the country are lofty, and fome of them appear deep and craggy, being perhaps of a more ancient date than the volcanic parts which we could examine.
In the evening we returned on board ; but as the furf ran conftderably higher than at our landing, w7e were obliged to flrip in order to wade to our boats, which our befl fwimmers had loaded with water-cafks, and fuch re-
frefhmems as could be purchafed on fhore -, not without fome danger of being hurt by fharks, which are numerous in the harbour. The captains, aftronomers, and matters, had fpent this day in making aftronomical obfervations upon the little iflet in the harbour, named Uba dos Codornizest or Quail ifland, from the birds which are in great plenty upon it. The commandant of the fort informed us, that the officers of a French frigate had likewife made aftronomical obfervations on this identical fpot fome time ago, having feveral watches of a new conflruction on board *•■
The next day captain Cook invited the governor-general, jrrJd>y ,4> and the commandant to dinner, and we flaid on board, in order to act as interpreters on this occafion.   The cap-
* This was the Ids frigate, commanded by M. de Fleurieu, on board of which-was M. Pingré, with feveral time keepers.   a journal of the voyage and obfervations made in that fhip, has fince been publifncd in 2 vols, quarto.
tain;
tain fcnt them his own boat ; but when it came on fhore, the governor begged to be excufed, becaufe he was always affected with ficknefs on board any vefTel, whether at fea or in harbour. The commandant promifed to come, but having at firft neglected to afk the governor's leave, the latter retired to take his fujla (or afternoon's repofe) and no one ventured to diflurb him.
The extreme fcarcity of refrefhments made our flay at Porto-Praya very iliort. We were therefore obliged to content ourfelves with a few cafks of brackifli water, a fingle bullock, a. few long-legged goats, with (trait horns and pendulous ears, fome lean hogs, turkies, and fowls, and a few hundreds of unripe oranges, and indifferent bananas. The refearches we had made the preceding day, furnifhed us with a few tropical plants, moflly of known fpecics, with fome new kinds of infects and of fifh. We alfo obferved feveral forts of birds, and among them guinea-hens, which feldom fly, but run very fwiftly, and which, when old, are very tough and dry eating. Quails and rcd-lcgged partridges are likewife common, according to the report of the natives, though we did not fee any j but the moti: remarkable bird we found is a fpecies of Kingfifiicr *, becaufe it feeds on large land-crabs of a blue
* The fame fpecics is found in Arabia Felix ; vide Forfkal Fauna Arabica j as alfo in Ab^iTmia, as appears from the elegant and valuable drawings of Jr.mcs Kruce, Efq4
and
and red colour, vviiofe numerous habitations are round Anew, and deep holes in the dry and parched foil. Our failors, who catch at every thing that may afford them diversion, purchafed about fifteen or twenty monkies, known by the name of St. Jago, or green monkies (fimla fabaa) ; which were a little bigger than cats, and of a greenifh-brown colour, with black faces and paws. On each fide of their mouth, they had a kind of pouch (like many others of the monkey tribe) which the EngliQa in the Weft-Indian colonics, call by their Spanifh   name   alforjes.    The antic
tricks of thefe little monkies were amufing for fome days, while their novelty lafted ; but they foon became infipid companions, were neglected, fometimes cruelly bandied about the veffel, and ftarved to death for want of frefh food, fo that only three of them reached the Cape of Good Hope. A harmlefs race of animals, dragged from the happy recefs of native fhades, to wear out the reft of their lives in continual anguifh and torment, deferve a pitying remembrance, though humanity would fain have drawn the veil over all acts of iron-hcartcd infenfibility, and wanton barbarifm.
We got under fail in the evening and fleered to the fouthwaul, having mild weather with frequent mowers of rain on the following days, and the wind blowing from N.E, by N. to N. N. E. On the 16 th, at eight o'clock in me evening, we faw a iummous fiery meteor, of an ob-
XoL-L G long
Sunday tC.
Avt^z7' lonS maPc and hlueifh colour, and having a very quick descending motion : its courfe was N. W. and it difap-pearcd in the horizon after a momentary duration. Our didance from St. Jago was fifty-five leagues at noon, notwithstanding which, wc faw a fwallow following our vclTd, and making numberlefs circles round it. The neceflary manoeuvres of trimming the fails, in the evening difturbed it from its rood on one of the gun-ports, upon which it took fhelter in the carved work of the dern. The two following days it continued to attend the fhip Tuefday is. on her courfe. During this time we obferved many bonitos in the fea around us, which frequently fhot pafl us with great velocity 5 but notwithdanding our endeavours to catch them with hooks, and flrike them with harpoons, wc could not take a fingle one. The crew were more fuccefsful in hooking a fhark of about five feet jn length, Its common attendants, the pilot-fifh (gafleroftcus duclor) and fucking-fifh (echeneis remora), likewife appeared with it ; but with this difference, that the former carefully avoided being caught, and fwam about very nimbly ; but the latter duck fo fad to the mark's body, that four of thern were hauled on deck with it. We dined on part of the mark the next day, and found it a tolerable food when fried, but rather of 'difficult digedion on account of its fat.
Two
Two days after, Henry Smock, one of the carpenter's A^usT.
n • r  A      Thurfday 20.
crew, being employed on the fides of the lhip, was iua-denly milled, and probably had fallen over-board and was drowned. His good-natured character, and a kind of ferious turn of mind caufed him to be regretted even among his fhipmates, and muli embitter his lofs to thofe, whom the tender tics of parental or conjugal affection had united to him. Humanity Hole a tear from each feeling traveller, the tribute due to a rational fellow creature of a gentle and amiable difpofition.
We had frequent Glowers after leaving St. Jago, and Friday a*. experienced a remarkable heavy fall of rain on the 2 ill, during which wtc caught up feven puncheons of frefh water in our fpread awnings. This fupply, though we were not diflreffed for want of it, was however very fea-fonable, inafmuch as we were now enabled to give large allowance of this neceffiry element to the crew. Captain Cook's remark deduced from long experience, that abundance of frefh water contributes to the prefcrvation of health in long voyages, is extremely judicious, and fcems to be founded on the known principles of phyfiology. If fea-mcn have plenty of water to drink, and fome to wafh themfelves and their linen, this effential precaution will in a great meafure prevent the fea-fcurvy from gaining ground among them. Their blood is diluted, and the wafle of fluids caufed by profufe perfpiration in hot eli-
O 2 mates,
a% mates, is reflored by plentifuljdrinking, and the infenfible perfpiration likewife goes on wi bout a check, when the people frequently fbift their linen, and wafli off any uncleanlinefs that may obflimfr. the pores. It is evident that the greatefl danger of pumd diflempers is thus precluded $ fince the reimbibing of perfpired matter, and the violence of perfpiration without a frefh fupply to temper and dilute the faline and cauflic quality of the remaining fluids, (which are often fuppofed to be the caufes of inflammatory fevers) are both in a great meafure pre* vented.
The heavy rains of this morning, entirely foaked the plumage of the poor fwallow, which had accompanied us for feveral days pafl 5 it was obliged therefore to fettle on the railing of the quarter-deck, and fullered itfelf to be caught. I dried it, and when it was recovered, let it fly about in the fleerage, where, far from repining at its confinement, it immediately began to feed upon the flies, which were numerous there. At dinner we opened the windows, and the fwallow retook its liberty j but about fix in the evening, it returned into the fleerage and cabin, being fenfible that we intended it no harm. Having taken another repafl of flies, it went out again, and roofled that night fomewherc on the outride of the veffel. Early the next morning our fwallow returned into the cabin once more, and took its breakfafl of flics. Emboldened
by
l>y the fhelter which we afforded it, and the little diflur- august.. bance it fuffcred from us, the poor little bird now ventured to enter the fhip at every port and fcuttle which was open ; fome part of the morning it paffed very happily in Mr. Wales's cabin ; but after having left that it entirely difapp aied. It is more than probable that it came into the birth of fome unfeeling perfon, who caught it in order to provide a meal for a favourite cat.
From the hiflory of this bird, which was of the common   fpecics,   or a houfe-fwaltow  (hirundo rujiica Lin.) we
may deduce the circumitances that bring folitary land-birds a great way out to fea. It feems to be probable, that they begin with following a fhip, from the time flie leaves the land ; that they are foon lofi in the great ocean, and are thus obliged to continue clofe to the fhip, as the only folid mafs in this immenfe fluid expanfe. If two or more fhips are in company, it is alfo eafy to account for the expreffion of meeting with land-birds at a great distance from land ; becaufe they may happen to follow fome other fhip from the fhore, than that which carries the obferver; thus they may efcape obfervation for a day or two, or perhaps longer, and when noticed, are fuppofed to be met with at fea. However, great florms are fometimes known to have driven fingle birds, nay vafl flocks out to fea, which arc obliged to fcek for reft on board of
fhips^
aÙgust. AiPs> at confiderable diflances from any land *. I lliall venture another reflection on this incident. In the long folitary hours of an uniform navigation, every little cir-cumftance becomes interefling to the pafTenger ; it is therefore not to be wondered at, if a fubject fo trifling in itfelf as putting to death a harmlefs bird, fhould affect a heart not yet buffeted into infenfibility.
Sunday*3. On the 23d, feveral cetaceois fillip from fifteen to twenty feet long palled the fhip, directing their courfe to the N. and N. W. They were fuppofed to be grampuffes,
Toefday %$, (delphimis orca). Two days after the fame kind of fifli, and a number of leffer ones of a brownifh colour, called Jkip-jàÀSi from leaping frequently out of the water, were obferved. The wind for feveral days pafl had blown from the N. W. and obliged us to take a S. E. courfe, fo that we were now got to the fouthward of the coaft of Guinea. Several of our navigators, who had frequently crofled the Atlantic, looked upon this as a fingular circumflan.ee ; and indeed it fairly proves, that though nature in the torrid zone commonly produces regular and conflant winds, neverthelefs it fometimes deviates even there from general
* Captain Cook very obligingly communicated to me a faci which confirms the above afTertion. Being on board of a fhip between Norway and England, he met with a violent ftorm, during which a flight oT feveral hundred birds covered the whole rigging of the fhip. Among numbers of fmall birds, he obferved feveral hawks, which lived very luxuriously by preying on thofe poor defencclcfs crc;itur-js.
rules,
rules, and admits of feveral exceptions. In this fituation b»tbSSjuu. we alfo obferved feveral man-of-war birds, {pelecanus aqui-hts.) It is a common belief among failors that their appearance denotes a vicinity of land ;. but we were at prefent above a hundred leagues from any fhore, fo that this opinion feems to have no better fupport than many old prejudices. Each eradication of one of thefe is a gain to fcience; and each vulgar opinion, proved to be erroneous, is an approximation to truth, which alone is worthy of. being recorded for the ufe of mankind.
On the firft of September, feveral dolphins, (corypBana Tùefday u
hippurus,) were feen ; and we likewife took notice of a large filli clofe to us, perfectly refembling the figure of a filli given in Willoughby's Hiftor. Pifcium, appendix pag. 5*. tab. 9. f. 3. which is taken from John Nieuhoff's account, and which the Dutch call zee-duyvel, or fea-devil. In its external fhape it was fimilar to the genus of rays, but feems to be a new fpecics ; from whence it is evident, that even in the mod frequented feas, fuch as the Atlantic, many new difcoveries in natural hiflory might be made, if thofe who can diuinguifh unknown from known objects, had always opportunities of enquiring into them.
On the third of September great numbers of flying- Thurfday3€. fiflics were obferved, and a bonito {[comber pelamys) was caught, whofe meat we found to be dry and lefs palatable than it is generally rcprefentcd.   We were lucky enough
two
rember   two days ar*tcr t0 ta^e a dolphin, (coryphana hippurus,) whick
September, Saturday 5,
Wtfd:)cfd*y 9-
is likewife dry meat ; but the inimitable brightnefs of its colours, which continually change from one rich hue to another whilft it is drying, is, in my opinion, one of the moft admirable appearances which can occur to the voyager's view during a tropical navigation.
But here defcription clouds each fliining ray ; What terms of art can Nature's pow'rs difplay?
Falcone r,
A boat was this day hoifted out in order to find the direction of the current, and to determine the temperature of the fea-water at a great depth. We founded with 250 fathoms, without finding any bottom. The thermometer in the air flood at 7si deg. dipped under the furface of the fea it fhewed 74 deg. and after being let down to the depth of 85 fathoms and hauled up again, it was fallen to 6 6 deg. It {laid 30' under water, and was 27' in hawling up. Our latitude at noon was o° 52' north. The boat being out, we had an opportunity of examining that kind of blubber, or fea-ncttle, which Linnceus has named medufa pelagica-, together with another fubmarine animal called doris lavis, and employed ourfelves in making drawings of them, and more minute defcriptions than have hitherto been publifhed.
On the 9th, having palled the line with a light air, our «rew ducked fuch of their fliipmates as had never croiTed it
before,
before, and did not care to redeem themfelves by paying 8>pJ*S*bi«, a certain forfeit of brandy. Thofe who had been obliged to undergo the briny fubmerfion, changed their linen and clothes j and as this can never be done too often, efpe-cially in warm weather, the ducking proved a falutary operation to them. The quantity of flrong liquors, arifing from the forfeits of the reft, fcrved to heighten the jovial humour, which is die predominant characteriftic of failors. This day we likewife obtained a foutherly wind, which gradually came round to S. by E. and S. S. E. and fettled into the ufual trade-wind.
This day we caught feveral dolphins, and a nying-fifh Monday 14. one foot long fell on the quarter-deck. Ever fince the 8 th we had daily obferved feveral aquatic birds, fuch as man of war birds, boobies (peiecanus aqmlus & fida) petrels, gulls, and tropic-birds (phaeton atberem.) We had alfo at various intervals, found the fea covered with animals belonging to the clafs of mollufca, one of which, of a blue colour, in fhape like a fnail, with four arms, divided into many branches, was named glaucus atianticus ; another, transparent like a cryftal, and often connected in a long firing with individuals of the fame fpecies, was referred to the genus named dagyfa, mentioned in Lieut. Cook's voyage in the Endeavour *    Two other fpecies of mollufca, which
* See Hawkefworth's compilation, vol. II. p. 2.
Vol. L H feamcn
September. &amen call fallee, and Portngaefe men of war, (mednfa veletta & hohthuria phyfatis) likewife appeared about our velTel in great abundance.
Sunday 27, On the 27 th we tried the direction of the currents, and the temperature of the fea again, with nearly the fame remit as before. The thermometer, which in open air flood at 72 1 deg. and under the furface of the fea at 70 deg. after being let down 80 fathom, funk to 6 8 deg. It continued 15 min. under water, and was hauled up in 7 min. Wc likewife took up a new fpecies of the blubber (mednfa.) For two days paft, we had obferved a bird, which we were this day enabled to examine, when we knew it to be the common fhear-water (procellaria puffinus.) Having now reached the latitude of twenty-five degrees fouth, we found the wind gradually coming round from E. by S. to E. by N. and toN. E. which enabled us to fleer to the fouth-eaflward. Our bodies, which the heat of the torrid zone had in a great degree relaxed, now began to feel a confiderable alteration in the climate, and though the thermometer was not above ten degrees different from what it ufed to be near the line, yet I contracted a violent cold, attended with the tooth-ach, fwellcd gums, and cheeks.
'pcToitft.       Gn tj   fourth of October, we obferved great numbers
©uniluy 4. o
of the common little petrel, of a footy brown, with white rumps (procellaria pelagica)^ and found the air cold and fliarp.
The
The next day the albatrofs, (diomedea exnkns) and the pin- octa^s*. tadas (procellaria capenfu), made their fir 11 appearance.
On the i ith it was mild and almoft calm, after feveral Sunday u. days of hazy and fqually weather, which had probably fharpened the appetite of the fea birds, and efpecially the pintadas ; for thefe lail eagerly fwallowed hooks baited with pieces of pork or mutton, and no lefs than eight of them were caught in a fliort time. In the evening we obferved an eclipfe of the moon, of which the end at a medium happened at   6h. s& AS  P* rn. our   latitude at
noon being 340 45' fouth.
The next day we tried the current and the temperature of the fea a third time. Wc let down the thermometer 100 fathoms, where it continued 20 min. was hauled up in 7 min. more, and then lhewcd 58 deg. At the fur face it flood at 59 deg. and in the air at 60 deg. It being calm, we employed ourfelves in the boat with mooting fea-fowl; among which were a fmall tern, a fhear-watcr, a new fpecies of albatrofs, and a new petrel: Several animals of the mollufca tribe likewife came within our reach, together with the helix jant bina, a violet-coloured meli, remarkable for the extreme thinnefs of its texture, which breaks with the leaft preflure, and feems therefore entirely calculated to keep the open fea, or at leaf! to iliun
H 2. xocky
October, rocky fhores *, agreeably to the obfervation in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour. AlbatrofTes, pintadas, and petrels of all kinds, amongfl which was alfo the fulmar, (procellaria glaciali*,) were now daily obferved.
On the 17 th, we had an alarm that one of our crew was overboard, upon which we immediately put about, but feeing nothing, the names of all perfons on board the vefTcl were called over, and none found milling, to our great fatisfaciion. Our friends on board the Adventure, whom we vifited a few days after, told us they had indeed fufpec"led by our manoeuvre, the aeeident which we had apprehended, but that looking out on the fea, Capt. Furneaux had plainly obferved a fea-lion, that had' been the caufe of this falfe alarm.
* See Havvkefworth/s Compilation, vol. II. p. 14. We find another remark at the end of that above quoted, which is of very different value, and feems to indicate that the ancient authors were not confulted. Whoever has* Jooked into Pliny, can never have the leaft idea that the thin fhell afore-mentioned could be " the purpura of the ancients." They had feveral kinds of {hells, which yielded the purple dye, but thefe were all rock-fhells. Earum genera plura, pabulo et solo difcreta, lib. ix, cap. 61. Exquìruntur omnes scopult gatuli murkibus ac purpuris, lib. v. cap. 1. It is equally clear and uncontrovertible that the figure and hardnefs of their purple fhclls were very different from thofe of the little helix janthina. Purpura vacatur, cuniculatim procurrente rojìro et cuni-culi latere introrfus tubulato qua proferatur lingua, lib. ix. cap. 61.—Lingua purpura longitudine digitalis qua pafeitur, perforando r eli qua conchyHa, tanta duri ti a aculeo eft, lib. ix. cap. 60.—Praterea clavatum ejl ad turbinem ufque aculeis in orbetn feptenis fere, lib. ix. cap. 61. Don Antonio Ulloa, in his voyage to South-America,, book IV, chap. 8. may be confulted on the fubjeci.
On
On the i 9th we had a great fouthern fwell, and faw a octSÌb*.
_        Monday jy,
large whale, and likewife a fifh of the (hark genus, or a whitim colour, with two dorfal-fins, and its length about . eighteen or twenty feet. As we had been a confiderable time at fea, the Captain had for fome weeks paft ordered four-krout (or cabbage lliced and fermented) to be regular* ly ferved to the crew, at a pint per man on meat-days, which was four times a week. The Lords of the Admiralty, attentive to every circumftance which bids fair to preferve the health of feafaring men, had ordered a very
confiderable quantity of this falutary and palatable food to be put on. board both of the mips, and the event has proved that it is one of the beft prophylaciics againft the fea-fcurvy.
On the 24th, the Adventure being a great way aftern, Saturday ^ the captain ordered a boat to be hoifted out, and feveral officers and other gentlemen went a fhooting, which gave us a frefh opportunity of examining the two forts of alba-trolTes, and a large black fpecies of fhear-water, (procellaria aquìnoclìaìis.) Our navigation, which for nine weeks paft had been out of fight of any land, began to appear dull and tedious, and feemed to be diftrefhng to many who were not ufed to an uniform reclufe life on board a mip, without any refrefhments or variety of fcenes. We fhould have found this long palTage equally difagreeabJc, if it had not fupplied us with employment from time to
time,
#
October    time, and nurfed the hope of making many interefting difcoveries relative to the fcience of nature.
Thurfday 29. On the 29th, early in the morning, we difcovered the land of the extremity of Africa, covered with clouds and fog j and feveral gannets and fmall diving-petrels, together with fome wild ducks, came out to fea from thence. Soon after the land difappeared entirely, and we could not fee it again till three o'clock in the afternoon, when its parts were much plainer, though the clouds dill involved them. The wind blowing frefh, and the Adventure being a great way a-ftcrn, we could not venture to get into the Table bay during night, but flood off and on till the next morning, having thick fqually weather, and heavy fhowcrs of rain.
The night was fcarcely begun, when the water all round us afforded the moll grand and aftonifhing fight than can be imagined. As far as wc could fee the whole ocean feemed to be in a blaze. Fvcry breaking wave had its fummit illuminated by a light fimilar to that of phofpho-rus, and the fides of the velici, coming in contaci: with the fea, were (Irongly marked by a luminous line. Great bodies of light moved in the water along our fide, fometimes flower, fometimes quicker ; now in the fame direction with our courfe, now flying off from it ; fometimes wc could clearly dilli;rgmm their fliape to be that of fifhes, which when they  approached any fmaller ones, forced
thefe.
thefe to haden away from them. Defirous of enquiring into the ca'ufe of this aftoniming phenomenon, we procured a bucket full of the illumined fca-water. The mod accurate attention to it proved, that innumerable minute fparks, of a round fliape, communicated this luminous appearance to the water, and moved about in it with great brilknefs and velocity. After the water had been danding for a little while, the number of fparks feemed to de-creafe ; but on being dirred again, the whole became as luminous as before.    Again, as the water gradually fub-
fided the fparks were obferved to move in direcìions contrary to the undulations of the water, which they did not before, whild the agitation was more violent, and feemed to carry them along with its own motions. We fufpended the bucket, to prevent its being too much affected by the motion of the fhip j the bright objects by this means betrayed more and more a voluntary motion, independent of the agitation of the water caufed by our hands, or by the rolling of the vefTel. The luminous appearance always gradually fubfided, but on the lead agitation of the water, the fparkling was nenewed, in proportion as the motion was encreafed. As I dirred the water with my hand, one of the luminous fparks adhered to my finger. We examined it by the common magnifier of Mr. Ramfden's improved microfcope, and found it to be globular, transparent like a gelatinous fubftance, and fomewhat brownifh :
by
-ioli ky the greatefl magnifier we difcovered the orifice of a little tube, which entered the body of this little atom, within which were four or five interline bags connected with the tube. Having examined feveral of them, which had much the fame appearance, I endeavoured to catch fome in water, and bring them under the microfcope in a concave glafs, where its nature and organs might be better examined: but thefe minute objects were always hurt with our touch before we could place them in the concave glafs, and when dead only appeared as an indif-tinct mafs of floating filaments. In about two hours lime the water had loft its luminous appearance. \ye had another bucket full of it drawn before that time, but all our attempts to catch one of the little atoms in the glafs proved ineffectual. Accordingly we haflened to draw the appearance of the firft globule, and to write down our obfervations. The moll probable conjecture which we could form concerning thefe little atomical animalcules was, that they might be the young fry of fome fpecies of me-dufa or blubber, though it may likewife be pofhble, that they arc beings of a diftinct genus.
There was a fingularity, and a grandeur in the difplay of this phenomenon, which could not fail of giving occupation to the mind, and flriking it with a reverential awe, due to Omnipotence. The ocean covered to a great extenr, with myriads of animalcules j thefe little beings,
or-
organized alive, endowed with locomotive power, a qua- qcIoTe'r. lity of lliining whenever they pleafe, of illuminating every body with which they come in contaci:, and of laying afide their luminous appearance at pleafurc : all thefe ideas crouded upon us, and bade us admire the Creator, even in his minuteft works. It is the natural fault of young people to think too well of mankind ; but I hope I mall not have formed too favourable an opinion of my readers, if I expeel: that the generality will fympathize with me in thefe feelings, and that none will be found ignorant or
depraved enough to defpife them.
Turrigeros elephantorum miramur humeros, taurorumque colla et truces in fublimejacìus, tigrium rapinas, leonum jubas; quum rerum natura nusquam magis, quam in minimis tota sit. Quapropter quaefo, ne noftra legentes, quoniam ex his fpernent multa, etiam relata faftidio damnent, quum in contemplatone Natura; nihil poffit videri vacaneum,  Plin. Hift. Nat. lib. xi. cap. 2.
The next morning, after a very rainy night, we failed Friday 3<?, into Table bay. The mountains at the bottom of it, now appeared clear of clouds, and furprifed us with their prodigious craggy, deep, and barren appearance. As we advanced farther into the bay, we difcovered the town at the foot of the black Table-mountain, and foon came to an anchor. After faluting the fort, and receiving the vifit of feveral officers in the fervice of the Dutch Eaft-India company, We went on more with captains Cook and Furneaux, being prepared to meet with many new ac-quifitions to fcience, on a continent fo diftant from our own, and fituated in an oppofite hemifphere.
Vol. I. I CHAP.
1772.
October.
CHAP. III.
Stay at the Cape of Good Hope.—account of that Settlement,
W J E were no fooner landed than we all went to wait  upon the governor, baron Joachim van Plettenbcrg, a man of a very liberal education,  and cxtenfive know-
to the other members of the council, and at lafl retired to take up our lodgings at Mr. Brand's, now commander at Falfe bay, whofe houfe at the Cape town is-commonly frequented by the Englifh captains who happen to touch there. Almofl every inferior officer of the Dutch* Company's government, the members of the council excepted, let their fupernumerary apartments to the officers and paffengers in the various 'Englifli, French, Danifh, and Swedifh fhips, which annually put in here, either on their. voyage from or back to Europe.
We were not a little pleafed with the contrail between this colony, and the Portuguefe ifland of St. Jago. There
we
ledge, whofe politenefs and affability immediately gave us a good opinion of him.    From him we proceeded
we had taken notice of a tropical country, with a tolerable ^cJJJ. appearance, and capable of improvement, but utterly neglected by its lazy and opprefTed inhabitants ; here, on the contrary, we faw a neat well-built town, all white, rifing in the midft of a defart, furrounded by broken malTes of black and dreary mountains ; or in other words, the picture of fuccefsful induflry. Its appearance towards the fea-fide, is not quite fo picturefque as that of Funchal. The ftore-houfes of the Dutch Eaft-lndia company, are all fituated ncarcil the water,  and the private buildings lie
beyond them on a gentle afcent. The fort which commands the road, is on the carl fide of the town, but feems not to be of great ftrcngth -, befides which, there are feveral batteries on both fides. The flrects in the town are broad, and regular j all the principal ones are planted with oaks, and fome have in their middle a canal of running water, which on account of its fmall quantity, they are obliged to hufband by fluices, fo that parts of it are fometimes entirely drained, and occafion no very pleafant fmell. The national character of the Dutch ilrongly manifefls itfelf in this particular; their fettlements being always fupplied with canals, though rcafon and common fenfe evidently prove their noxious influence on the health of the inhabitants, cfpccially at Batavia.
Quanto
177a. October,
Quanto pneftantius eflet •—•——viridi fi margine clauderet undas Herba, nec ingenuum violarent marmora tophum ì
Juvenal.
The houfes are built of brick, and many of them arc white warned on the outfide. The rooms are in general lofty and fpacious, and very airy, which the hot climate requires. There is but one church in the whole town, and that is extremely plain, and feems to be rather too fmall for the congregation. That fpirit of toleration, which has been fo beneficial to the Dutch government at home, is not to be met with in their colonies. It is but very lately that they have fullered even the Lutherans, to build churches at Batavia, and at this place ; and at the prefent time, a clergyman of that perfuafion is not tolerated at the Cape, but the inhabitants are obliged to content themfelves with the chaplains of Danifh and Swedifh Eaft-India-mcn, who give them a fermon, and adminfter the facrament once or twice a year, and are very hand-fomely rewarded. The government, and the inhabitants do not give themfelves the trouble to attend to a circum-fiance of fo little confequence in their eyes, as the religion of their flaves, who in general fecm to have none at all. A few of them follow the Mahommedan rite, and weekly meet in a private houfe belonging to a free Ma-homedan, in order to read, or rather chaunt feveral prayers,
and
and chapters of the Koran.   As they have no prieft among 0CT them, they cannot partake of any other acts of wor-fhip *
The ilaves belonging to the company, who amount to feveral hundreds, are lodged and boarded in a fpacious houfe erected for that purpofe, where they are likewife kept at work. Another great building ferves as an hofpi-tal for the failors belonging to the Dutch Eaft-India mips, which touch here, and commonly have prodigious numbers of fick on board, on their voyage from Europe to-4-
wards India. The vail number of men, fometimes fix, feven, or eight hundred, which thefe mips carry out to fupply the military in India, the fmall room to which they are confined, and the fhort allowance of water and fait provifion, they receive on a long voyage through the torrid zone, generally make confiderable havock among them : it is therefore no uncommon circumflance at the Cape, that a fhip on her paflage thither from Europe, lofes eighty or a hundred men, and fends between two
* We would not be underftood to throw an odium on the Dutch in particular, when it is well known that the negroes, who wear the chains of the Englifli and French, are equally neglected : it was only intended to awaken a fellow-feeling towards an unhappy race of men, among the colonifts of all nations ; and to remind them whilft they enjoy, or Jlrlve to enjoy the ineftimable blefling of liberty, to exert themfelves in a&s of humanity and kindnefs, towards thofe from whom they with-hold it, perhaps, without remorfe,
and
and three hundred others dangeroufly ill to the hofpital., A faci: no lefs deplorable than certain, is, that the fmall expence and facility with which the ziel-vcrkoopers actually carry on their infamous trade of fupplying the India company with recruits, makes them lefs attentive to the pre-fervation of health among thefe poor people. Nothing is more common, in this and other Dutch colonies, than to meet with foldiers in the company's fervice who, upon enquiry, acknowledge they have been kidnapped in Holland. There is an apothecary's (hop belonging to the hofpital, where the mod neceflary remedies are prepared, but no cxpcnfive drug is to be found in it, and the method of adminiflering to all the patients indifcriminately out of two or three huge bottles, full of different preparations, fumee to convince us, that the frefh. air of the land, and frelli provifions here, contribute much more to the recovery of the fick, than the fkill of their phyficians. Patients who are able to walk, are ordered to go up and down the flrects every fair morning ; and all kinds of greens, pot-herbs, fallads, and antifcorbutics are raifed for their ufe in an adjacent garden belonging to the company. Travellers have fometimes praifed ai*d fometimes depreciated this garden, according to the different points of view in which it has been confidcred. It is true, a few regular walks of indifferent oaks, -encompafled writh elm and myrtle hedges, are not objects engaging enough
to
to thofe who are ufed to admire the perfection of garden- Uov7mbìr, ing in England, or who contemplate in Holland and France eyptefs, box, and yew trees cut out into vafes, flames, and pyramids, or charmilks turned into pieces of architecture ! But confidering that the trees were planted in the beginning of this century, more for ufe than ornament -, that they fhelter the kitchen-herbs for the hofpital, againft the deflructive violence of florms ; and that they form the only fhady and airy walks, comfortable to voyagers and fick perfons  in  this hot  climate,  I cannot wonder that fome
fhould extoll as " a delightful fpot*," what others con-temptuoufly call " a friar's garden \"
The day after our arrival, the aflronomers of both Saturday 1. £hips, Mr. Wales and Mr. Baily, fixed their inftruments afhore, within a few yards of the identical fpot where Mefirs. Mafon and Dixon had formerly made their agronomical obfervations. The fame day we began our botanical excurfions in the country about the town, The ground gradually rifes on all fides towards the three mountains which lie round the bottom of the bay, keeping low and level only near the fea-fide, and growing fomewhat marfhy in the illhmus between the Falfe and Table bays, where a fait rivulet falls into the latter. The
• Commodore (now admiral) Byron. See Hawkefwortb's compilation, vol I., f M. de Bougainville,    See his Voyage round the World.
marfhy
marfhy part has fome verdure, but is intermixed with a great deal of fand. The higher grounds, which from the fea fide have a parched and dreary appearance, are however covered with an immenfc variety of plants, amongft which arc a prodigious number of fhrubs, but fcarce one or two fpecics that deferve the name of trees. There are alfo a few fmall plantations wherever a little run of water moiitcns the ground. Abundance of infects of every fort, feveral fpecies of lizards, land-tortoifes, and ferpents frequent the dry fhrubbery, together with a great variety of fmall birds. We daily brought home ample collections of vegetables and animals, and were much furprifed to find a great number, cfpecially among the latter, entirely unknown to natural hiflorians, though gathered in fields adjacent to a town, from whence the cabinets and repofi-tories of all Europe have been repeatedly fupplied with numerous and valuable acquifitions to the fcience.
One of our excurfions was directed to the Table mountain. The afcent was very flcep, fatiguing, and difficult, on account of the number of loofe flones which rolled away under our feet. About the middle of the mountain we entered a bold grand chafm, whofe walls are perpendicular and often impending rocks, piled up in flrata. Small rills of water oozed out of crevices, or fell from precipices in drops, giving life to hundreds of plants and low fhrubs in the chafm.   Another kind of vegetables,
growing
growing on a drier foil, that feemed to concentrate their NovTE7 juices, fprcad a fine aromatic fcent, which a gentle breeze wafted towards us from the chafm. At lari, after three hours walk, we reached the fummit of the mountain. It was nearly level, very barren, and bare of foil j feveral cavities were however replete with rain-water, or contained a little vegetable earth, from whence a few odoriferous plants drew their nouriflimcnt. Some antelopes, howling baboons, folitary vultures, and toads are fometimes to be met with on the mountain. The view from thence is very extenfivc and picturefquc. The bay feemed a fmall pond or bafon, and the (hips in it dwindled to little boats : the town under our feet, and the regular compartments of its gardens, looked like the work of children. The Lion's Rump now feemed an inconfiderable ridge ; we looked down on the fpiry Lion's Head, and only Charles' Mount rofe as it were in competition with the Table. To the northward, Robbcn iiland, the Blue hills, the Tyger hills, and beyond them a noble chain of mountains, loftier than that on which we flood, bounded our view. A group of broken rocky maflcs inclofed Bout baay (Wood bay) to the well, and continuing to the fouth ward formed one fide of the Table bay, and terminated in the famous fiormy cape which king Manqel of Portugal named the Cape of Good Hope. To the fouth-eaft our view extended acrofs .the low iflhmus between the two bays ; beyond it wc Vol. I. K difcerned
difcerned the colony of Hottentot Holland, and the mountains about Stellenbofch ; and on this fide we were delighted with a number of plantations infulated by the vaft heath, and finely contrafting their verdure with the reft of the country: Among them we difUnguifhcd Conflantia, famous in the annals of modern epicures. After a flay of two hours, finding the air very cold and fharp on the mountain, we defcended, very well pleafed with our ex-curfion, and amply rewarded for the toilfome part of ir, by the beauty and extent of the profpecl.
The country on the S. E. fide of the Table mountain attracted our particular attention, on account of the number of plantations on the Hoping grounds, and the variety of plants which that part produced. Its appearance, efpe-cially near the hills, is the pleafanteft on this fide of the ifthmus. By the fide of every little rivulet a plantation is fituated, confiding of vineyards, corn-fields, and gardens, and commonly furrounded with oaks from ten to twenty feet high, which enliven the country, and afford fhelter againft norms. The late governor Tulbagh, who is looked upon as a father to this colony, rebuilt feveral houfes and gardens here, for the ufe of the governors, at Rondc-bofch and Nieuw-land. They are plain, and have nothing particular to recommend them, but that they are kept in the beft order, confift of fhady walks, and are well fup-piied with water.   The company's granges or flieds are
alfo
alfo erected hereabouts ; and a little farther on there is a brewery, belonging to a private man, who has the exclu-five privilege of brewing beer for the Cape. In a fine valley, on the fide of the mountain, lies the plantation called Paradife, remarkable for its delightful grove, and for producing feveral fruits, efpecially fuch as belong to tropical climates, which come to great perfection there. Alphen, the feat of Mr. Kerilc, (at that time commander in Falfe bay) was the boundary of our excurfions on this fide. We were here received with real hofpitality, which our worthy hod had brought from Germany, his native country. During a few days it was the centre of our botanical rambles, which always furnifhed us with an abundant har-veft, and gave us the greatefl; apprchenfions that with all our efforts, we alone would be unequal to the talk of collecting, defcribing, drawing, and preserving (all at the fame time) fuch multitudes of fpecics, in countries where every one we gathered would in all probability be a non-defcript. it was therefore of the utmoft importance, if we meant not to neglect .any branch of natural knowledge, to endeavour to find an afliflant well qualified to go hand and hand with us in our undertakings. We were fortunate enough to meet with a man of fcience, Dr. Sparrman, at this place, who after fludying under the father of botany, the great Sir Charles Linnc, had made a voyage to China, and another to the Cape in purfuit of knowledge.
K 2 The
The idea of gathering the treafures of nature in countries hitherto unknown to Europe, filled his mind fo entirely, that he immediately engaged to accompany us on our circumnavigation ; in the courfe of which, I am proud to fay, we have found him an enthufiaft in his fcience, well verfcd in medical knowledge, and endowed with a heart capable of the warmed feelings, and worthy of a philofo-pher. But far from meeting with fuch great difcoveries in natural hiflory, as had been made in Lieut. Cook's firft voyage on a new continent *, wc were obliged to content ourfelves with the produce of a few fmall iflands, which we could imperfectly invedigate in the fhort fpaces of fometimes a few hours, or a few days, or to the utmod of a few weeks, in unfavourable feafons.
During our day at the Cape, the people on board our {hip fet up the rigging, fcrubbed and payed the fides, and took in dorè fome brandy and other neceflary articles* of proviilon for the crew, together with feveral fheep for the captains and officers. Several rams and ewes were likewife brought aboard, intended as prefents to the natives of the South-Sea ; but the length of the voyage, and our run to the frozen zone, reduced them fo much, that this ufeful purpofe was entirely defeated. In order to purfue our rcfearches after natural knowledge, with greater per-
* New Holland.
tainty
A   VOYAGE ROUND
T L-I E
WORLD.
69
tainty of fucccfs, we likewife bought a water-fpanicl here, No;j2;,i, in hopes that this animal would prove ufeful in fetching any game which fell out of our reach. It was with great difficulty we could meet with one, and we were obliged to pay an exhorbitant price for it ; though it afterwards proved of little fervice. It may feem fuperfluous to mention fo trifling an occurrence as this, but I believe it is hardly imagined, how great a number of little objects arc to be attended to among many weightier concerns, by a traveller who means to improve his time to the utmoll advantage.-
On the 2 2d we brought all our baggage on board, and the fame day we failed from Table bay. Previous to the mention of farther occurrences, I fhall here endeavour to give a fuccinct account of the fiate of this Dutch colony, which it is hoped will afford fatisfactory inilruction to my readers.
The fouthermoft extremity of Africa, circumnavigated, fo early as the times of the Egyptian king Nccho, and again in the reign of Ptolcmccus Lathyrus*, was once more.
* The proofs of this affertion are enumerated in Schmidt Opufc. di AT. W. ile commerc. & navigation. /Egyptior. p. 160. and more fully in Schlòzer Handlungs : Gefchichte (or Hiftory of Commerce) p. 300. Herodotus exprefsly fays, that Africa is furrounded by the fea, and that this was found out by fome Phoenician mariners fent out for that purpofe by Pharaoh Necho from the Red Sea, who returned by the Mediterranean, lib. iv. cap. 42. Strabo, lib. ii. alfo mentions the expedition of one Eudoxus round Africa, in the reign of Ptolemy Lathyrusj and according to Pliny, the Carthaginians likewife have explored
the i
difcovered in later times, by Bartolomeo Diaz, a Portuguefe navigator, in the year 1487. Vafco de Gama was the nrft who made a voyage to India round it in 1497, which was looked upon as a kind of prodigy. It remained however ufelefs to Europeans till the year 1650, when Van-Riebeck, a Dutch furgeon, firfl faw the advantage that would accrue to the Eaft-India Company in Holland, from a fettle-ment at fo convenient a diftance both from home and from India. The colony which he founded, has ever fince continued in the hands of the Dutch, and increafed in value for a confiderable time after his deccafc.
The governor depends immediately upon the Eaft-India Company, and has the rank of an Edele Heer, the title given to the members of the fupreme council of Batavia. He prcfidcs here over a council confiding of the fecond, or deputy governor, the fifcal, the major (who commands the fort), the fecretary, the treafurer, the comptroller of provifions, the comptroller of liquors, and the book-keeper ; each of which has a branch of the Company's commerce affigncd to his care. This .council has the whole management of the civil and military departments, but the deputy-governor prcfidcs over another, named the court of
•the coaft of that continent. Hift. Nat. lib. ii. cap. 67. Et Hanno, Carthaginis potentia fiorente, circumveclus a Gadibus ad fuiem Arabia;, navigaiicnem earn prodidh fcripto,
j ufi ice,
juftice„ which tric3 all offences and crimes, and confifls of fome of the members of the former j but no two relations can fit and have vote in the fame council, to prevent the influence of parties.
The income of the governor is very confiderable, for befides a fixed appointment, and the ufe of houfes, gardens, proper furniture, and every thing that belongs to his table, he receives about ten dollars for every leagre of wine which the Company buy of the farmer, in order to be exported to Batavia.    The  company  allows   the   fum of
forty dollars for each leagre, of which the farmer receives but twenty four j what remains is fliared between the governor, and fecond or deputy, the former taking two thirds, which fometimes are faid to amount to 4000 dollars per annum.   The fecond governor has the direction of the company's whole commerce here, and figns all orders to the different departments under him,   as  well as the governor to others.   He and the fifcal have the rank of tipper koopman.   The fifcal is at the head of the police, and fees the penal laws put in execution ; his income confiils °f fines, and of the duties laid on certain articles of commerce, but if he be flrict in exacting them, he is univcrfally detefled.   The found policy of the Dutch have likewife found it neceffary to place the fifcal as a check, to over:awe the other officers of the company, that they may-not counteract the interefts of their mailers, or infringe the
law j
t I77!" laws of the mother country. He is to that end, common-ly well verfed in juridical affairs, and depends folcly upon the mother country. The major (at prefent Mr. Von Prehn, who received us with great politenefs) has the rank of koopman or merchant: this circumflance furprifes a flrangcr, who in all other European flates, is ufed to fee military honours confer diflinction and precedence, and appears flill more fingular to one who knows the contrail in this particular between Holland and Rullia, where the idea of military rank is annexed to every place, even that of a profeiTor at the univerfity. The number of regular foldiers at this colony amounts to about 700, of which 40© form the garrifon of the fort, near the Cape town. The inhabitants capable of bearing arms form a militia of 4000 men, of whom a confiderable part may be affemblcd in a few hours, by means of fignals made from alarm places in different parts of the country. We may from hence make fome eflimate of the number of white people in this colony, which is at prefent fo extenfive, that the diflant fettlements are above a month's journey from the Cape ; but thefe remote parts lie fometimes more than a day's journey from each other, arc furrounded by various nations of Hottentots, and too frequently feel the want of protection from their own government at that diflance. The flavcs in the colony are at leaft in the proportion of five or more, to one white pcrfon. The principal inhabitants
tants at the Cape have fometimes from 20 to 30 Haves, NorkMto. which are in general treated with great lenity, and fometimes become favourites with their mailers, who give them very good cloathing, but oblige them to wear neither fhoes nor (lockings, referving thefe articles to themfelves. The flaves are chiefly brought from Madagascar, and a little veftel annually goes from the Cape thither on that trade ; there are however, befidcs them, a number of Malays  and Bengalefe, and fome negroes.     The colonifls themfelves are for the greatefl part Germans, with fome families of Dutch, and fome of French proteftants. The character of the inhabitants of the town is mixed. They are induflrious, but fond of good living, hofpitable, and fociable ; though  accuflomed to hire their apartments to flrangers *, for the time they touch at this Settlement, and ufed to be complimented with rich prefents of fluffs, Sec. by the officers of merchant mips.    They have no great opportunities of acquiring knowledge, there being no public fchools of note at the Cape -, their young men are therefore commonly fent to Holland for improvement, and their female education is too much neglected.    A kind of diflikc to reading, and the want of public amufements, make their converfation unintcrefting and too frequently
* The terms are mentioned in Lieut. Cook's Voyage. Sec Hawkefworth's compilation, vol. III. p. ^§8. The members of the council are an exception in this rcfpccT.
Vol. I. L nun
T772:     turn it upon fcandah which is commonly carried to a
November. 1 ' *
degree of inveteracy peculiar to little towns. The French, Englifh, Portuguefe, and Malay languages are very commonly fpoken, and many of the ladies have acquired them. This circumftance, together with the accomplifh-ments of flnging, dancing, and playing a tune on the lute, frequently united in an agreeable perfon, make amends for the want of refined manners and delicacy of fentiment. There are however among the principal inhabitants, perfons of both fexes, whofe whole deportment, extenfive reading, and well-cultivated understanding would be admired and diftinguifhed even in Europe *, Their circum-flances are in general eafy, and often very affluent, on account of the cheap rate at which the necelTaries of life are to be procured ; but they fcldom amafs fuch prodigious riches here as at Batavia, and I was told the greatefl private fortune at the Cape did not exceed one
* Among them we cannot in juftice avoid mentioning the governor, Baron Joachim von Plettenberg, a gentleman whofe hofpitality and affability do great honour to him and his nation; Mr. Hemmy, fecond governor, and his family; Mr. Von Prehn, the major ; Mr. Bergh the fecretary, a man of fcience, of a noble, philofophic turn of mind, with a family who diftinguifh themfelves in every mental and bodily accomplifhmenr, above the whole rifing generation of the Cape ; Mr. Kerfte, Mr. de Wit, and our worthy hoft Mr. Chriftophel Brand, commander of the Port at Falfe Bay, with all their families. It is a real fatisfaclion to perpetuate the memory of valuable members of fociety, and friends to mankind*.
hundred
hundred thoufand dollars, or about twenty-two thoufand N five hundred pounds flerling.
The farmers in the country are very plain hofpitable people ; but thofe who dwell in the remoter!: fcttlements feldum come to town, and are faid to be very ignorant ; this may eafdy be conceived, becaufe they have no better company than Hottentots, their dwellings being often feveral days journey afunder, which mult in a great mea-fure preclude all intercourse. The vine is cultivated in plantations within the compafs of a few days journey from the town ; which were eflabli(hcd by the fir ft colo-nifls, and of which the ground was given in perpetual property to them and their heirs. The company at present never part with the property of the ground, but let the furface to the farmer for an annual rent, which, though extremely moderate, being only twenty-five dollars for fixty acres * yet docs not give fufficient encouragement to plant vineyards. The diftant fettlements therefore chiefly raife corn and rear cattle ; nay many of the fettlcrs entirely follow the latter branch of ruflick employment, and fome lnure very numerous flocks. We were told there wrere two farmers who had each fifteen thoufand fheep, and oxen in proportion ; and feveral who pofTefìcd
* Each acre of fix hundred and fixty-fix fquare Rliynland roods, the rood of twelve feet.    The proportion of the Rhynland foot to the Englifh is about one hundred and fixteen to one hundred and twenty.
L 2 fix
fix or eight thoufand fheep, of which they drive great droves to town every year ; but lions and buffaloes, and the fatigue of the journey, defiroy numbers of their cattle before they can bring them fo far. They commonly take their families with them in large waggons covered with linen or leather, fpread over hoops, and drawn by ci^ht, ten, and fometimes twelve pair of oxen. They bring butter, mutton-tallow, the flefh and fkins of fea-cows (hippopotamus}, together with lion and rhinoceros' fkins, to fell. They have feveral Haves, and commonly engage in their fervice feveral Hottentots of the poorer fort, and (as we were told) of the tribe called Bofchemans or Buflimen, who have no cattle of their own, but commonly fubfifl by hunting or by committing depredations on their neighbours. The opulent farmers fet up a young-beginner by intruding to his care a flock of four or five: hundred fheep, which he leads to a diflant fpot, where he finds plenty of good grafs and water ; the one half of all the lambs which are yeaned fall to his fhare, by which, means he foon becomes as rich as his benefactor.
Though the Dutch company feem evidently to difcourage all new fettlers, by granting no lands in private property, yet the products of the country have of late years fufficed not only to fupply the Ifles of France and Bourbon with corn, but likewife to furnifh the mother country with feveral fhip loads.   Thefe exports would certainly be made
at an eafier rate than at prefent, if the fcttlements did not Novy^E!U. extend fo far into the country, from whence the products muft be brought to the Table bay by land carriage, on roads which are almoft impalTable. The intermediate fpaces of uncultivated land between the different fcttlements are very extenfive, and contain many fpots fit for agriculture ; but one of the chief reafons why the colonics arc fo much divided and fcattered throughout the country, is to bz met with in another regulation of the company, which forbids every new fettler to cftablifli himfelf within
a mile of another. It is evident that if this fettlement were in the hands of the commonwealth, it would have attained to a great population, and a degree of opulence and fplendor, of which it has not the leali hopes at prefent : But a private company of Eaft-India merchants find their account much better in keeping all the landed property to themfelves, and tying down the colonift, left he mould become too great and powerful'.
The wines made at the Cape are of the greatefl variety poffiblc. The beft, which is made at M. Vander Spy's plantation of Conflantia, is fpoken of in Europe, more by report than from real knowledge ; thirty leagres * at the utmoft are annually raifed of this kind, and each leagre fells for about fifty pounds on the fpot. The vines from which it is made were originally brought from
* A.leagre contains about one hundred and eight gallons, or a pipe.
Shiraz.
Shiraz in Perfia. Several other forts grow in the neighbourhood of that plantation, which produce a fweet rich wine, that generally paiTes for genuine Conftantia in Europe. French plants of burgundy, mufcadc, and fron-tignan have likewife been tried, and have fucceeded extremely well, fometimes producing wines fuperior to thofe of the original foil. An excellent dry wine, which has a flight agreeable tartnefs, is commonly drank in the principal families, and is made of Madeira vines tranfplanted to the Cape. Several low forts, not entirely difagrceable, are raifed in great plenty, .and fold at a very cheap rate, fo that the failors of the Eaft-India fhips commonly indulge themfelves very plentifully in them whenever they come albore. ' •
The products of the country fupply with provifions the mips of all nations which touch at the Cape. Corn, flour, bifcuit, faked beef, brandy, and wine are to be had in abundance, and at moderate prices ; and their frelli greens, fine fruits *, good mutton and beef, are excellent reflora-tives to feamen who have made a long voyage. The climate is likewife fo healthy, that the inhabitants are rarely troubled with complaints, and flrangers foon recover of the fcurvy and other diuempcrs. The winters at the Cape are fo mild that they hardly ever have ice about the town : but on the mountains, and cfpccially thofe far in
* Their grapes and oranges are fome of the beft in the world.
the
the country, they have hard fro lis with fnow and hail hq^S**, florms ; nay a ftrong fouth-caflerly florm fometimes brings on a froft during night even in the month of November, which is their fpring. The only inconvenience which they frequently fuller are colds, brought on by the frequent change of air from flrong winds, to which the Cape is fubjed at all feafons. But notwithstanding the heat, which is fometimes exceflivc, the inhabitants of Dutch origin fecm to have preferved their-native habit of body, and both fexes arc remarkably corpulent, to which their good living may greatly contribute.
The Hottentots or aboriginal inhabitants of this country, have retired into the interior parts, and their nearcit kraal or village, is about a hundred miles from the Cape town. From thence they fometimes come down with their own cattle, or attend the Dutch farmers who conduci: their flocks to town for fale. We had no opportunity to make new obfervations upon them, as we only faw a few individuals, in whom we could not difcern any peculiarities but fuch as have already been defcribed by Peter Kolbcn, in his Prefent State of the Cape of Good Hope, &c. The circumflantial accounts given by this intelligent man, have been confirmed to us by the principal inhabitants of the Cape town, It is true, that he has been mifin-formcd in regard to fome circumftanccs j and that others, chiefly relative to the colony, have at prefent another appearance
pcarancc than in his time: but he dill remains the beft author that can be confulted on the fubjeet, and as fuch we will venture to refer our readers to him.
Wc have had an occafion to obferve feveral facts al-ledgcd in Kolben, and we likewife find them mentioned in Lieutenant Cook's voyage. See Hawkefworth's compilation Vol. III. p. 789, Sec. The Abbe de la Caille, an aflronomer, in the account of .his voyage, which was pub-limed foon after his death, has endeavoured to ruin the credit of Kolben's book, without giving us any thing better in ics Read. We fhould not have ventured to mention fo fupcrucial a performance, as that of the Abbe, were it not neceflary to vindicate from his afperflons, the character of Kolben, as a faithful and accurate obfervcr. The Abbe lived with a family at the Cape, who were of a party directly oppofite to that which had fupported Kolben. He daily heard invectives againfl him, and never failed to write them down, in order to give himfelf importance at the expence of the other.
Nul n'aura d'efprit
Hors nous ct nos amis. Boileau.
The extremity of Africa towards the fouth is a mafs of high mountains, of which the outermoft are black, craggy, and barren, confiding of a coarfe granite, which contains no heterogeneous parts, fuch as petrified fhclls, &c. nor
any
any volcanic productions.   The cultivated fpots which we faw had a diff clay mixed with a little fand and fmall pieces of (lone ; but the plantations towards Falfe bay are almoft entirely on a fandy foil.   The colony of Stellen-bofch is faid to have the moil fertile foil of all at the Cape, and the different plantations thrive there incomparably better than any where elfe, particularly the European oaks, which are faid to have attained a confiderable height and flourishing appearance, whilft they do not fecm to fucceed near the town, where the tal left we faw was not above thirty feet high.    The interior mountains are certainly metallic, and contain iron and copper ; fpecimens of ores of both kinds were ìliewn to us by Mr, Hcmmy, and fome tribes of Hottentots melt both thefe metals ; from whence we may conclude, that the ores they employ mufl be rich and eafy of fufion.     Hot fprings arc likewife found at feveral places in the interior country *, and the inhabitants of the Cape Town refort to one of them at the diflance of about three days journey, which is famous for curing cutaneous and other diflempers, and is probably of a fulphu-rcous nature.
The variety of plants in this country is furprifing. In the little time we flaid there, we obferved feveral new fpecies growing in the environs of the town, where we fhould lead have expected them. And though the collections of former botanids from hence are verv ample,   yet Dr.
Vol. I. M Sparrman
Sparrman and the learned Dr. Tuunberg * have gathered above a thoufand fpecies entirely unknown before. The animal kingdom is proportionably rich in the variety of its productions. The greatefl quadrupeds, the elephant, the rhinoceros, and the giraffe or camelopard, inhabit this extremity of Africa ; the two firfl were formerly found within fifty miles of the Cape, but have been fo much purfucd and hunted, that they are rarely feen at prefent within many days journey. The rhinoceros particularly is fo fcarcc, that the government have iflued an order to prevent its being entirely extirpated. The hippopotamus, there called a fea-cow, which formerly ufed to come as far as Saldanha bay, is likewife fo feldom feen at prefent, that none mufl be killed within a confiderable dirlance of the Cape. Its meat is eaten here, and reckoned a great dainty : the tafle in my opinion is that of coarfe beef, but the fat rather refembles marrow. This animal feeds entirely on vegetables, and we were told can only dive a.
* An eminent difciple of Linné, who after arranging and clafling Dr. Ehrmann's herbals at Leydcn, fludied botany during three years at the Cape, and having made immenfe acquifitions to fcience, was fent to Batavia, at the expence of the Dutch Eaft-India company, in order to proceed to Japan in !775- ^he fame ficntIeman was fo obliging, at Dr. Sparrman's requeft, to take with him, on one of his excursions, Francis Maffon, employed in the Royal garden at Kew, who had been fent to the Cape on board the Refolution, in order to collect live plants and feeds for the botanical garden. Under Dr. Thunberg's kind guidance, who pointed out to him what was worthy of notice, he hai made and brought home an ample collection.
fliort
fhort fpace, not exceeding thirty yards. The wild buffalo is another huge quadruped, which now inhabits the more remote fettlements of the Cape, and is faid to have prodigious ftrength and ferocity. Its horns rcfcmbles thofe of the American wild ox (bijou), and are rcprefentcd in the ixth vol. of M. de Button's Natural Hiftory. They often attack the farmers travelling in the country, and kill many of their cattle, which they trample upon with their feet. Dr. Thunberg loft his horfes in one of thefe rencounters, and his fellow-traveller, the Dutch company's gardener, narrowly cfcaped between two trees.   A young
*       4jtU tOT SÌA—
one, about three years old, belonging to the fecond governor, was put before a waggon, with fix tame oxen, but his ilrength was fuch that they could not move him out of his place ». Bcfides this there is another fpecies of wild ox, called by the natives gnoot which has {lender horns, a mane, and brufhes of hair on the nofe and wattles, and in the {lender make of its limbs feems to refem-ble an horfc or an antelope, more than its cogeneric animals. This fpecies we have drawn and defcribed, and it has been brought over to the menagerie of the Prince of Orange.   Africa has always been known as the country of
. We ftiould have gone into the country to fee this animal, but wc only heard of it the day before our departure. This feems to be the animal mentioned by de Manet, Nouvelle Hiftoire de l'Afrique Francoife, tome ii. .p. 129.
M 2 the
the beautiful genus of gazelles or antelopes *, and the different names which have been improperly given to its fpecies, have hitherto not a little contributed to obfeure our knowledge of them. A number of the ficrceft beafts of prey likewife infeft the Cape, and the colonics can never be at fufficient pains to extirpate them. Lions, leopards, tyger-cats, ftriped and fpotted hyaenas, (Pennant's Syn. of Quadr.) jackals, and feveral others, live on the numerous
* We can only except a few fpecies found in India, and other parts of Afia, and one in Europe.    The different fpecies at the Cape are remarkable, fome for the elegance of their fhape, fome for their colours, their horns, or their fize.    The Coodoo, or Kolben's bock obne namen (goat without a name), from whence the name of M. de Buffon's Condoma is probably derived, is the flrep-ficeros of Linnc and Pallas, and its height is that of a horfc.   Its leaps arc faid to l*e of an aftonifliing height.    The Cape elk of Kolben, Pallas's antelope oryx, is about the fize of a flag.  The bonte bock is the A. fcripta of Dr. Pallas. The antelope which they improperly call a hart or flag at the Cape, is the A. bubalis of Pallas.   The Egyptian  antelope, Linne's and Pallas's gabella, and M. de ■ Button's pa/an,  is here called gems-bock or chamois, which it does not in the Jcaft rcfemble.    The blue antelope, [blauwe bock) is really of a blueifh. colour, but when killed foon lofes the velvet-like appearance of its fur.    The fpring-bock, a beautiful fpecies, named A. pygargus by Pallas, live in vaft herds in the interior parts of Africa, and travel to the fouth ward in the fummer feafon, in, fearch of food, attended by many lions, panthers, hyaenas, and jackals, which prey upon them.    Of this fpecies we had the honour to prefent one to Her Majefly alive.    Two fmall fpecics, with feveral varieties not hitherto noticed,, fupply the principal inhabitants with venifon of a fine flavour.    Their fize is • that of a fawn of the fallow, deer.    The duyker, or diving antelope, fo called from hiding itfelf among the bufhes when purfued, and only emerging from time to time, is not. yet fufficiently known, and the animal named a roebuck here,, likewife deferves the farther attention of travellers.
fpecies
fyecies of antelopes, on hares, jerbuas, caviae, and many leffer quadrupeds with which the country abounds. The number of birds is likewife very great, and among them many are arrayed in the brighter! colours. I cannot help mentioning, in confirmation of Kolben's accounts, that we have feen two fpecics of fwallovvs at the Cape, though the Abbé de la Calile cenfures him for fpeaking of them, becaufe they did not occur to himfelf. The Abbé alfo commits a miftake with regard to the knorhan, which is not a gelinotc or grous, as  he calls it, but  the African
buflard. Upon the whole, it would be eafy to refute al-moft every criticifm which the Abbé has pafled on Kolben, if a work of fo little merit deferved fo much attention.. Reptiles of all kinds, ferpents, (among which are many whofe bite is mortal,') and a variety of infects fwarm about the Cape ; and its fliores likewife abound in wcli-tafled fifhes, many of which are not yet known to the natura-lift. In fhort, notwithstanding the many fpoils of the vegetable and animal kingdom, which have been brought from Africa, its immenfe interior countries remain almofl entirely unknown to the prefent time, and flill contain great treafures of natural knowledge, which wait the future inveftigation of another Thunberc or another. Bruce.
CHAP.
1772-
November.
C -H A P. IV.
Run from ùe Cape to the Antarctic Circle ; firfl feafon fpent in high Southern Latitudes.—Arrival on the Coaft of New Zeeland.
Sandfly **. '^^E failed from Table bay, about four in the afternoon, on the 2 2d of November, after having faluted the fort. The wind blew in hard fqualls, which continued all night, and gave us once more a rough reception on the boiflcrous element ; while the fame luminous appearance, which we had obferved before our coming into this bay, was perceived again, though in a much fligfuer degree.
Monday 23. The next day towards eight in the morning, we loft fight of the Cape, and directed our courfe to the fouthward. As we were now entering on an unexampled navigation, not knowing when we might meet with a new place of refreshment, the captain gave the ftricteft orders to prevent the wane of frefh water ; to this end a centry was placed at the fcuttlcd-cafk *, and a regular allowance of water was daily fcrved out to the crew, befides which they were permitted to drink at the calle, but not to carry any water away. The captain himfelf warned with falt-water, and
* An open butt placed on the quarter-deck, and daily filled with fjrcfh water jttcK of the hold, for the ufe of the (hip's company,
all
all our company were obliged to conform to this nccef-fary rcftridion. The diftilling machine improved by Mr. Irving, was likewife conftantly employed, to fupply at lead fome part of the quantity daily confumcd.
On the 24th in the afternoon, the weather being fair TuefdayM* and moderate, after a hard gale we caught nine albatroHes with a line and hook, baitjd with a bit of fheep s fkin. Several of them meafured above ten feet from tip to tip, between the expanded wings.- The younger ones feemed to have a great mixture of brownifh feathers, whereas the full-grown were almoil entirely white except their wings, which were blackifh, and their fcapulars which were barred and fprinkled with dotted lines of black.
A large brown fiifi refembling the fun fifli (tetrodon moia), was likewife feen clofe to the fhip for a fhort fpace of time.
On the the 29th the wind, which had for three or four Sunday a9i days pad blown a very ftrong gale, now encreafed fo much, that we ran during the laft twenty-four hours, almoft under the bare fore-fail. The fea at the fame time ran very high, and frequently broke over the Hoop, in which none of the cabins were prepared for fuch bad weather, our courfe from England to the Cape h aving, been remarkably free of florms. The people, and efpecially perfons not brought up to fea-ai^'irs, were ignorant how to behave in this new fituation ; the prodigious rolling of the vefTel.
therefore
therefore daily made great havock among cups, faucers, glafTcs, bottles, dimes, plates, and every thing that was moveable ; whilft the humorous circumflances fometimes attending the general confufion, made us bear thefe irreparable lolTes  with   greater compofure  than might have been expected.    The decks, and the floors of every cabin were however continually wet -, and the howl of the ftorm in the rigging, the roar of the waves, added to the violent agitation of the vefTel, which precluded almoft every occupation, were new and awful fcenes, but at the fame feverely felt, and highly difagreeable.  . The air was like-wife unpleafantly fharp and cold about this time, our latitude being now about 42° fouth j and frequent rains contributed to make the fervice of the feamen hard and com for tic fs.   To fecure them in fome meafure againft the inclemencies of the weather, the captain ordered a general diftribution of clothes to be made, which had been ex-prefsly provided at the expence of the Admiralty to ferve this purpofe.   Every per fon whofe duty expofed him to the fevcrity of fouthcrn climates, from the lieutenant to the failor, was provided with a jacket and a pair of trow-fcrs of the thickeft woollen fluff called fearnought *, or ftrong flannel, which kept out the wet for a long time, and had this only fault, in common with every thing the navy pro-
• A diftribution of the fame nature was made to Captain Cook's crew in his full voyage round the world. See Hawkcfwonh's Compilation, vol. II. p. 40.
vides,
vides, viz. that they were fupplied by contract, and there- movbmm*. fore generally too fliort for our people. If we confider the diftrefTes to which M. de Bougainville's crew were reduced for want of cloathing, wc cannot help reflecting on the better fortune of Englifh fcamen, who, under an equitable government, may expect to be treated with peculiar care ; and who, on perilous expeditions, are humanely and attentively fupplied with neceflaries to face the dangers of the fea, and fupport their fpirits in adverfity. A trying moment frequently occurs, where the defpondence caufed
by ill-treatment and heavy fufferings, mull have the mod fatal confequences, fince its direct oppofite, an undaunted refolution is then mod neceflary ; fuch a moment we experienced in this night. A petty officer in the forepart of the vcfTel, awaking fuddenly, heard a noife of water ftreaming through his birth, and breaking itfelf againft his own and his mefs-mates chefts j he leaped out of his bed, and found himfelf to the middle of the leg in water. He inftantly acquainted the officer of the quarter-deck with this dreadful circumftancc, and in a few moments almoft every perfon in the fhip was in motion; the pumps were employed, and the officers encouraged the feamen with an alarming gentlenefs, to perfeverc in their work ; notwithstanding which the water feemed to gain upon us -, every foul was filled with terror, encrcafed by the darknefs of the night.
Vol. i, N ponto
„ f?7*. Ponto nox incubat atra,
November.
Praefentemque viris intentant omnia mortem. Virgil.
For what obfcured light the heavens did grant, Did but convey unto their fearful minds
A doubtful warrant of immediate death. Shakespeare.
The chain-pumps were now cleared, and our failors laboured at them with great alacrity ; at laft one of them luckily difcovered that the water came in through a fcuttle (or window) in the boatfwain's ftore-room, which not having
been fecured againft the tempeftuous fouthcrn ocean, had been ftaved in by the force of the waves. It was immediately repaired, and clofely fliut up, and we cfcaped for this time with the greateft part of the clothes and effects of the failors and officers thoroughly foaked in fait water. We fhould have found it difficult, if not utterly impofiible, to clear the fhip of the water, if the midfhipman had not providentially awaked before it had gained too much upon us : the prcfence of mind of our officers, and the fpirit of our feamen would have been exerted in vain, and we muft perhaps have gone down to the bottom, in the midft of a very dark night and turbulent ocean, which would have eilcciually prevented our confort from giving us afliftance. A diftribution of fifliing-hooks and lines was made about this time to every perfon on board, as it was uncertain how foon we might meet with land, and confequcntly with an opportunity of making ufe of them.
The
The itormy weather continued, intermixed with frequent Dgcyj**^t rains and fogs, till the fifth of December*, when we fet the Saturdays* top-gallant fails for the firft time, after leaving the Cape of Good Hope, and obferved the latitude at noon, in 47 ° io' fouth. In the afternoon, however, the fhowers returned, and a weflern fwcll announced a wind from that quarter, which actually came on during night, blowing at about S. W. and chilled the air fo confiderably, that the thermometer funk from 440 to 3 8 0 during the night, and fome fnow began to fall the next morning.    The  wind foon
encreafed to a norm again; fo that on the 7th in the Monday7. afternoon, we had only a fingle fail fet. A variety of birds of the petrel and tern genus, had attended us in greater or lefTer numbers ever fince we had left the Cape, and the high fea and winds feemed to have no other influence on them, than that of bringing more of them about us. The principal forts were the Cape-petrel, or pintada (procellaria capenfis), and the blue petrel, fo called from its having a blueifh-grey colour, and a band of blackilh feathers acrofs the whole wing. We likewife faw the two before mentioned fpecics of albatroffes f from time to time, together with a third, lefs than the others, which we named the jofity, and our failors called the
* We had loft fix large h0gS of our live flock, and fome fheep, during this uncomfortable weather, t See p. 51.
N 2 quaker
A  VOYAGE   ROUND.  THE WORLD,
D*ey»Vtt. quaker bird, from its having a greyifh-brown colour. Many birds of all thefe different fpecies furrounded us on the 8th of December, the wind full continuing very high,
Tucfday 8.   an(] tnc fea very turbulent.   We now likewife faw pin-
guins * for the firil time, and fome bunches of fea-weed, of the fpecies called the fea-bamboo (focus buccinalis Lin J Thefe appearances greatly favoured the hope of meeting with land, as it had hitherto been held uncontroverted that weeds, efpecially rockweeds, (fuch as thefe were) and pinguins were never to be met with at a great diftanccfrom fhores ; but experience has {hewn that thefe prognoftic& are not to be relied upon, and probably derive all their credit from fingle accidental proofs in their favour, fup-ported by the name of fome celebrated mariner. Future obfervations on the nature of floating rock-weeds, and drift-wood, might perhaps lead: to fome more determinate conclufions ; for as thefe weeds mull have been at firft detached from the rocks on which they grew, it is probable that from the degree of fi• *flinefs or of putridity which
* Thefe birds, which fince the time of Sir John N.arborough, have been repeatedly mentioned by almoft every navigator that has vifited the Southern, extremities of America, are fo well known to the Englifti reader, from the accounts of Anfon,. Byron, Bougainville, Pernetty, &c, that it is fcarce neceflary to deferii fu m They are in a manner amphibious creatures, and their wings , are unfit to/lft >ttg? Dut ^iaPed like ftrong flefhy membranes, which perform all the functions of fins. There are upwards of ten different fpecies known to the naturalifts at prefent.
they
they have when found, the time they have been adrift, Dec7^ber, and in fome rare inftances, the diflances from land, may be conjectured ; but the direction and force of the winds and waves, and other accidental circumflanccs, mull in that cafe be carefully taken into consideration.
The wind abated during night, fo that we fet our còurfes on the 9th in the morning. The thermometer at WedMOaj*; eight o'clock was however fallen to 35 °, and only rofe one degree at noon, being then in 490 45' of fouth latitude. Towards night it grew colder again, and at half an hour pad ten, we found the thermometer on deck very near 320, and the edges of the fcuttled-cafk, filled with frefh water, were freezing. This great cold preceded the fight of ice floating in the fea, which we fell in with on the next morning. The firfl we faw, was a lump of con- Thursday ic fiderable. fize, fo clofe to us, that we were obliged to bear away from it ; another of the fame magnitude a little more a-hcad, and a large mafs about two leagues on the weather-bow, which had the appearance^ a white head-land, or a chalk-cliff.
In the afternoon wc paiTed another large cubical mafs about 2000 feet long, 400 feet broad, and at leali as high again as our main-top-gallant-mafl head, or 20© figcr high, According to the experiments of Boyle and Mairca  , the
* Sec Mairan's Diflertatiorffur la GJace.   Paris, 1749, p. 261.
volume
«7?*. volume of ice is to that of fea-water, nearly as ten to nine: confequently, by the known rules of hydroilatics, the vo-lume of ice which rifes above the furface of the water, is to that which finks below if, as one to nine. Suppofing the piece which we now faw to be entirely of a regular figure, its depth under water mud have been one thoufand eight hundred feet, and its whole height two thoufand feet, allowing its length as abovementioned two thoufand feet, and its breadth four hundred feet, the whole mafs muft have contained one thoufand fix hundred millions cubic feet of ice.
Thefe prodigious pieces of ice, in all probability, drift but very flowly and imperceptibly, fince the greatefl: part of them being under water, the power of winds and waves can have but little efFccT: ; currents perhaps are the principal agents which give them motion, though I much queftion, whether their velocity is ever confiderable enough to carry them two miles in four-and-twenty hours. At the time wc met with this firft ice, all our conjectures about its formation could not amount to more than bare probabilities, and had not fuflicient experience to fupport them: but after we have made the tour of the globe, without finding the Southern Continent, the exillence of which has been fo univerfally believed in Europe ; it feems in the higheft degree reafonable to fuppofe this floating ice to
have
have been formed in the fea * j an idea the more probable, Dec^1ee, as repeated and decifive experiments have evinced, that falt-water may be frozen.
This ice likewife ferved to fhew us the great difference between the temperature of the northern and fouthern hc-mifphere. We were now in the midft of December, which anfwers to our June, and the latitude obferved at noon gave only 51° 5' fouth, notwithstanding which we had already paffed feveral pieces of ice, and the thermometer Hood at 36°. The want of land in the fouthern hemifphcrc feems to account for this circumftance, lìnee the fea, as a tranfparent fluid, abforbs the beams of the fun, inilcad of reflecting them.
On the 11th of December, about three o'clock in the Friday ir* afternoon, we paffed to leeward of a large piece, or ifland of ice, at lead half a mile in length. The thermometer on deck, which had been at 3 6 0 about two o'clock, was rifen to 41°, on account of the fair funfliinc, which continued all the afternoon : when we came abreafl of the ice, the wind directly blowing from thence, it gradually funk
* Mr. Adanfon, on returning from Senegal, brought feveral bottles filled with fea-water with him, taken up in different latitudes, which being brought to Paris from Brcft in tne midft of winter, the water in them froze fo as to break them ; the ice was perfe&ly frefh, and the refiduum of brine was run out. See his Voyage au Senegal, p. 19o. Mr. Edward Nairne, F. R. S. has made experiments on fea-water during the hard froft in 1776, inferted in the LXVI. volume of the Philofophical Tranfaaions, which put it beyond a doubt, that folid and frefh ke may be formed from fea-water.
to>
to 3 7 ; ; however we had no fooner paiTed it, than the mercury regained its former ftation of 41 °. We alfo found that this difference of four degrees, very perceptibly affected our bodies, and concluded that the large maffes of ice greatly contributed to refrigerate the general temperature of the air in thefe inhofpitable feas. The waves dallied with great violence againft the iiland of ice, as againft a fixed body ; fometimes they broke entirely over it, notwithfland-ing its height, which was not much inferior to that of the beforementioned piece, and we frequently faw the fpray rife very high above ir, a phenomenon, which, on account of the fair weather, had a remarkable fine effect. The fea-water by this means wallied upon the ice, is probably congealed there, and ferves to encreafe the mafs ; a circum-fiance very materially conducive to afcertain the hiftory of its formation.
Notwithstanding the coldnefs of this climate, our floops were flill furrounded by birds of the petrel genus, albatrof-fes and pinguins. We particularly obferved a petrel, about the fize of a pigeon, entirely white, with a black bill and blueifli feet ; it conllantly appeared about the icy maffes, and may be looked upon as a fure fore-runner of ice. Its colour induced us to call it the fnowy-petrel. A grampus and feveral whales likewife made their appearance among the ice, and in thefe chilling regions ferved to vary the
difmal
difmal fcene, and gave us fome idea of a fouthern Green- ^"7".*' land.
The number'of icy maiTcs encreafcd around us every day, Sunday 13; fo that we numbered upwards of twenty of a vafl fize on the 1 3th in the afternoon. One of them was full of black fpots, which were taken for feals by fome, and for aquatic birds by others, though we could not find that they even fhifted their places; However feals being hitherto looked upon as certain figns of land, we founded in the evening with a line of one hundred and fifty fathoms,
but found no bottom. The latitude we were now in, was that in which Captain Lozier Bouvct had placed his pretended difcovery of Cape Circumcifion, and our longitude was only a few degrees to the eaflward of it : the general expectation of feeing land, was therefore very great, and every little circumftance like the preceding roufed all our attention j the clouds a-head were curiouily examined at every moment, fince every one was eager to be the firft to announce the land. We had already had feveral falfe alarms from the fallacious conformation of fog-banks, or that of iflands of ice half hid in mow dorms, and our confort the Adventure had repeatedly made the fignals for feeing land, deceived by fuch appearances : but now, the imagination warmed with the idea of M. Bouvet's difcovery, one of our lieutenants, after having repeatedly been up to the maft-head, (about fix o'clock in the morning on Vol. L O the
the 14th) acquainted the captain that he plainly faw the
December. Monday 14.
land.   This news foon brought us all upon deck : We faw an immenfe field of flat ice before us, broken into many fmall pieces on the edges, a vafl number of iflands of ice of all fhapes and fizes rofe beyond it as far as the eye could reach, and fome of the moft diftant considerably raifed by the hazy  vapours which lay on the horizon, had indeed fome appearance of mountains.    Several of our officers perfifted in the opinion that they had feen land here, till Captain Cook, about two years and two months afterwards (in February 1775) on his courfe from Cape Horn towards the Cape of Good Hope, failed over the fame fpot, where they had fuppofed it to lie, and found neither land nor even ice there at that time.   Numbers of pin-guins, pintadas, fulmars, fnowy and blue petrels * attended this vafl extent of ice, and different fpecics of cetaceous animals fpouted up the water around us: two of them, fhorter than other whales, were particularly noticed; in refpccT of their bulk and of a white or rather flefliy colour.   A great degree of cold in thefe icy regions entirely precluded the idea of a hammer, which, we had expected at this time of the year ; our thermometer flood at 3/ in the morning, and did not rife beyond 33° at noon, though the latitude we obferved this day was only 54° 55' fouth.   We palled through quantities of broken ice in the
* Aptenodytcs antartica j Procellaria capenfis, glacialis, nivea, & vittata.
afternoon,
afternoon, and faw another extenfive ice-field, beyond DeJl7 which feveral of our people Hill perfifted in, taking fog-banks for land. It fnowed a good deal during night, and in the morning it was almoft calm, but very foggy. A boat was hoifted out! to try the direction of the current. Mr. Wales the aftronomer, and my father, took this opportunity to repeat the experiments on the temperature of the fea at a certain depth. The fog encreafed fo much while they were thus engaged, that they entirely loft fight of both the mips. Their fituation in a fmall four-oared boat, on an immenfe ocean, far from any inhabitable lhore, furrounded with ice, and utterly deftitute of provifions, was truly terrifying and horrible in its confequences. They rowed about for fome time, making vain efforts to be heard, but all was filent about them, and they could not fee the length of their boat. They were the more unfortunate, as they had neither ma ft nor fail, and only two oars. In this dreadful fufpence they determined to lie ftill, hoping that, provided they prcferved their place, the lloops would not drive out of fight, as it was calm. At laft they heard the jingling of a bell at a dillance ; this found was heavenly mufic to their cars ; they immediately rowed towards it, and by continual hailing, were at laft anfwered from the Adventure, .and hurried on board, overjoyed to have efcaped the danger
O   2 Of
Decomber. °f perifhing by flow degrees, through the inclemencies c£ weather and through famine. Having been on board fome time, they fired a gun, and being within hail of the Refolution, returned on board of that Hoop, to their own damp beds and mouldering cabins, upon which they now fet a double value, after fo perilous an expedition. The rifks to which the voyager is expofed at fea are very numerous, and danger often arifes where it is lead expected. Neither can we trace the care of Providence more evidently in ftorms among hidden rocks and fhoals, and where water or fire threaten deftruction, than in thefe little cir-cumftances, which the traveller and the reader are both too apt to forget or pafs lightly over, if they come to a, favourable iflue.
Friday j8. The quantity of impenetrable ice to the fouth did not permit us to advance towards that quarter ; therefore, after feveral fruitlefs attempts, we flood on to the eaflward,, along it, frequently making way through great fpots covered with broken.ice, which anfwered the defcription of what the northern navigators call packed ice. Heavy hail mowers and frequent falls of fnow continually obfcured the air, and only gave us the reviving fight of the fun during fhort intervals. Large iflands of ice were hourly feen in all directions around the floops, fo that they were now become as familiar to us as the clouds and the fea j
their
their frequency however dill led to new obfcrvatioiiSj which p our long acquaintance with them ferved to confirm. We were certain of meeting with ice in any quarter where we perceived a flrong reflexion of white on the fkirts of the Iky near the horizon.   However the ice is not always entirely white, but often tinged, efpecially near the fur-face of the fea, with a molt beautiful fapphirinc or rather berylline blue, evidently reflected from the water ; this blue colour fometimes appeared twenty or thirty feet above the furfacc,  and was there probably owing to fome particles of fea-water which had been dafhed againft the mafs in tempeftuous weather, and had penetrated into its in-terftices.   We could likewife frequently obferve in great iflands of ice, different fhades or calls of white, lying above each other in ftrata of fix inches or one foot high, This appearance feems to confirm the opinion concerning the  farther encreafe and  accumulation  of fuch huge maffes by heavy falls of mow at different intervals. For. fnow being of various kinds, fmall grained, large grained, in light feathery locks, &c. the various degrees of its com-paetnefs account for the different colours of the ftrata.
We did not lofe fight of our deflination to explore the. Ta^hy^ fouthern frigid zone, and no fooner perceived the fea more open than before, than we flood once more to the fouth-ward.   We made but fmall advances at firff,  the wind, being very faint, and almoft falling calm in the morning,
on,
>ece7mVe*.  on c*ie 2 3d.   We feizcd this opportunity to hoift out a
Wednefd. 21.   . , . . . . ,
boat, and continue the experiments on the current, and on the temperature of the fea. The fpecies of petrels which were numerous about us, were likewife examined, deferibed, and drawn this day, having been fhot as they hovered with feeming curioflty over our little boat. Thuifdny 24. ^c continued (landing foutherly, and even made a good deal of welling, the wind being S. S. E. The next morning the wind blew pretty frefh, and carried us part
Friday 25. ° 1        J 1
feveral iflands of ice ; fome whales, and a number of birds appearing about us. Oar firfl Chriflmas day during this voyage, was fpent with the ufual chearfulncfs among officers and palTengers ; but among the failors, notwithstanding the furrounding rocks of ice, with favage noife and drunkennefs, to which they feem to have particularly -Saturday »s. devoted the day. The next morning we failed through a great quantity of packed or broken ice, fome of which looked dirty or decaying. Iflands of ice flill furrounded us, and in the evening, the fun fetting jufl behind one of them, tinged its edges with gold, and brought upon the whole mais a beautiful fuffufion of purple. A dead calm which fucccedcd on the 27 th, gave us an opportunity of hoifling the boat out, and going to fhoot pinguins and petrels. The chace of pinguins proved very unfuccefsful, though it afforded great fport ; the birds dived fo frequently, continued fo long under water, and at times
(kipped
Hupped coniinually into and out of the water, making D£CV„2BJ way with fuch amazing velocity in a ftrait line, that we were obliged to give over the purfuit. At lad we came near enough to one, to wound it ; but though we followed it clofely, and fired above ten times with fmall mot, which we could obferve to hit, yet wc were at lafl obliged to kill it with ball. When we took it up, we perceived that its hard, glofly plumage, had continually turned the mot afide. This plumage is extremely thick, and coniifls   of long narrow  feathers,   which lie above
each other as clofely as fcales, and fecure thefe amphibious birds againft the wet, in which they almoft conftantiy live. Their very thick fkin and their fat feem wifely appropriated to them by nature, to refill the perpetual win-ter of thefe unhofpitable climates j their broad belly, the fituation of their feet far behind, and their fins, which fupply the place of wings, are conftrueted with equal wifdom to facilitate the progrefs of their other wife lumpifh bodies through the water. The one that we had now fhot weighed eleven pounds and a half. The blue petrels which are feen throughout this immenfe ocean, and which now fettled in flocks of feveral hundreds on the fmooth furface of the water, were not worfe fitted out againft the cold than the pinguins. Their plumage was amazingly abundant, and increafed their bulk in a great proportion j and two feathers inftead of one, proceeded!
out
out of every root, lying within each other, and formed a very warm covering. As they arc almoft continually in the air, their wings are very iìrong, and of a great length to fupport them. On the ocean, between New Zeeland and America, we have found them above feven hundred leagues from any land ; a diftance which it would have been impoiTtble for them to have paffed, without àn amazing firength in their bones and mufcles, and the affiftance of long wings. Poflibly thefe birds fpreading over the whole ocean far from any land, may live a confiderable time without frefh fupplies of food; that being the cafe with many animals of prey, both in the clafs of quadrupeds and that of birds. Our experience fhould feem in fome meafure to contradici:, and in fome degree to confirm, this fuppofition. For whenever we lamed any of them, they difgorged a quantity of vifcid food, to all appearance recently digefled, which the reft immediately fwallowed up with fuch avidity as feemed to indicate a long fall. Therefore it may be probable, that feveral forts of blubbers (moJhifca) inhabit thefe icy feas, which may come to the furface in fair weather, and fupply the weary birds with food. We were glad to meet with fubjccls from whence thefe little reflections could be drawn. They afforded us a momentary relief from that gloomy uniformity with which we flowly paffed dull hours, days, and months in this defolate part of the
world.
world. We were almoft perpetually wrapt in thick fogs, beaten with fhowers of rain, fleet, hail, and mow, the temperature of the air being conftantly about the point of congelation in the height of fummer; furrounded by innumerable iflands of ice againft which we daily ran the rifk of being fhipwrccked, and forced to live upon fak proviftons, which concurred with the cold and wet to infect the mafs of our blood. Thefe feverities naturally infpired a general wifh for a happier change of fituation and climate, though our Teamen coming frefh and ftrong from England, were not yet difpiritcd amidft the numbcr-lefs fatigues and inclemencies to which they were expofed. The prophylactics, with which we had been fup-plied, and which were regularly ferved to the crew, namely portable broth, and four krout, had a wonderful effect in keeping them free from the fca-fcurvy. Two or three men however, of a bad habit of body, could not refill: this dreadful difeafe ; one of them in particular, George Jack-fon, a carpenter, fell ill ten days after leaving the Cape; his gums were ulcerous, and his teeth fo loofe,' as to lie fideways. A marmalade of carrots, which had been much recommended was tried, but without fuccefs, it having no other effect than that of keeping him open. Our fur-geon, Mr. Patton, then began the cure with frefh wort, i.e. the infufion of malt, by which he gradually recovered, and in the fpace of a few weeks was perfectly cured, his teeth Vol. I. 1   P faft,
DicBMM»,  foft, and his gums entirely renewed.   As the efficient caufe of his complaint Hill exifted, he was obliged to continue the ufe of wort even after his cure, and by that means was kept free from all fcorbutic fymptoms. The encomiums on the efficacy of malt cannot be exaggerated, and this ufeful remedy ought never to be forgotten on board of mips bound on long voyages ; nor can we bellow too much care to prevent its becoming damp and mouldy, by which means its falutary qualities are impaired, as we experienced during the latter part of our voyage. January.        The new 7ear hegan with ihow-fhowers and frefh cold gales, which carried us to the weftward, under the meridian, where M. Bouvet placed the difcovery, which he called Cape Circumcifion.    The fight of feals and pinguins once more revived the hopes of fome of our fellow-voyagers, who bid us look out for land, which by their account could not be far ofF.   Our courfe however foon difappointed their expectations, and only ferved to invalidate their teflimonies of the proximity of land. Sunday3. The wind fhifted to the north-weftward in the night,
and we flood back again to the eafl, having firfl proceeded beyond the meridian of M. Bouvet's difcovery. We paffed the fpot where we had met with much ice on the 31ft of December, and found it drifted away from thence ; after which we continued our courfe to the S. E.
On
On the 9th, in the morning, we faw a large iiland of pg&n
Saturday 9»
ice, furrounded with many fmall broken pieces, and the weather being moderate we brought to, hoilled out the boats, and fent them to take up as much of the fmall ice as they could.   We piled up the lumps on the quarterdeck, packed them into calks, and after dinner melted them in the coppers, and obtained about thirty days water, in the courfe of this day, and in the latitude of 6i° 36' fouth.   Two days afterwards we had another opportunity of fupplying our iloops with ice, which our people performed with great alacrity, notwithilanding the excoriation of their hands, which the cold and the fharpnefs of the fea produced.   A picturefque view of fome large mafTes of ice, and of our fhips and boats employed in watering from fmall ice, is inferted in Captain Cook's account of this voyage.   Some white whales of a huge fize, feem-ingly fixty feet long, were obferved here, and many pinguins floated pad us, Handing upright on fmall bits of ice.   The water wc melted out of this ice was perfectly frelli, and had a purer tafte than any which we had on board.   If any fault could be found with it, it was that the fixed air was expelled from it, by which means almoft every one who ufed it was aileeted with fwellings in the glands of the throat.   Water melted from fnow or ice is known always to have this cfTccl:, and the conftant ufe of it in mountainous countries produces thofe enormous wens
P 2 (goitres)
January, (goitres) which are common among Alpine nations, and are become fo-habitual that they are looked upon as ornamen* tal. Several perfons on board, unacquainted with natural philofophy, were very ferioufly afraid that the ice, when it began to melt, would burli the cafks in which it was packed, not confidering that its volume muft be greater in its frozen than in its melted fiate, lince it floated on the furface. The Captain, to undeceive them, placed a little pot filled with (lamped ice in a temperate cabin, where it gradually difTolved, and in that fiate took up considerably lefs fpace than before. Ocular demondration always goes farther than the cleared arguments ; but reafoning never has lefs weight than with failors.
sundry i7. On the 17 th, in the forenoon, we croffed the antarctic circle, and advanced into the fouthern frigid zone, which, had hitherto remained impenetrable to all navigators* Seme days before this period we had feen a new fpecies of petrel, of a brown colour, with a white belly and rumpj and a large white fpot on the wings, which we now named the antarctic petrel, as we faw great flights of twenty or thirty of them hereabouts, of which we fhot many that unfortunately never fell into the fhip. About five o'clock in the afternoon, we had fight of more than thirty large iflands of ice a-head> and perceived a drong white reflexion from the iky over the horizon. Soon after we paffed through vad quantities of broken ice, which looked
honey-
e
fioney-combed and fpungy, and of a dirty colour. This jANJJ^Kv. continually thickened about us, fo that the fea became very fmooth, though the wind was frelli as before. An immenfe field of folid ice extended beyond it to the fouth,, as far as the eye could reach from the mail-head. Seeing it was impoffible to advance farther that way, Captain Gook ordered the fhips to put about, and flood north-eafl by north, after having reached 67° 15' fouth latitude, where many whales, fnowy, grey, and antarctic petrels* appeared in every quarter.
On the 1 9th and 20th we faw a bird, which a gentle- Wedn«fó.
man, who had been at Falkland's iflands, called a Port-Egmont hen *, and which proved to be the fkua or great northern gull (larus catarradles), common in the high latitudes of both hemifpheres. The appearance of this bird, was likewife conflrued into a prognoflick of land ; but our difappointments had already been fo frequent in this re-fpeet, that we were not eafily led to give credit to bare affertions. We faw a bird of this fpecies again on the 27th, when we had a great variety of all kinds of petrels and albatrollcs around us. It always foared up to a great height, perpendicularly over our heads, and looked down upon us, as it fhould feem with great attention, turning its head now on one fide, and now on the other. This
* This bird is mentioned in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour. Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 283,
was
was a novelty to us, who were ufed to fee all the other aquatic birds of this climate keep near the furfacc of the fea. The next evening, and on the 29th, we had feveral porpefles palling by us with amazing fwiftnefs in all directions. They were pied, and had a large blotch of white on the fides, which came almoft up to the back behind the dorfal fin. Their velocity was at leaft triple that of our vcfTels, though we now went at the rate of feven knots and a half. In the afternoon we faw a fmall black and white bird, which fome called an ice-bird, and others a murr, and which feldom or never go out of fight of land ; but as we could not come near enough to examine it more accurately, we rather believed that it might be a fpecies of petrel. We Hood however off and on this night and the next, finding the fea very moderate, though the wind blew very frefh. We were the more induced to take this precaution as we had received intelligence at the Cape of Good Hope of a difcovery of land hereabouts, by the French captains M. de Kerguclcn and M. de St. Ai-louarn, in January 1772.
As the journal of that voyage has been fuppreiTed in France, I fhall here infert fuch particulars as were communicated to us by feveral French officers at the Cape of Good Hope. M. de Kerguelen, a lieutenant in the French navy, commanding the veflel (flute) la Fortune, and having with him a fmaller veffel (gabarre) le Gros Ventre, commanded
mantled by M. de St. Allouarn, failed from the Ifle of jA^A3;Y< France or Mauritius, the latter end of i 7 7 1. On the 1 3th of January 1772, he faw two ifles, which he called the Ifles of Fortune j and the next morning one more, which from its fhape they called Ifle Ronde. Almofl about the fame time, M. de Kerguelen faw land, of a confiderable extent and height, upon which he fent one of the officers of his (hip a-head in the cutter to found. But the wind blowing frefh, M. de St. Allouarn in the Gros Ventre (hot ahead of the boat, and finding a bay, which he called the
Gros Ventre's bay, fent his own yawl to take polTeflion of the land which was performed with the utmoft difficulty. Both the boats then returned aboard the Gros Ventre, and the cutter was cut adrift on account of the bad weather. M. de St. Allouarn then fpent three days in quell: of M. dc Kerguelen, who had been driven fixty leagues to leeward, on account of his weak malls, and was returned towards the Ifle of France. M. de St. Allouarn continued to take the bearings of this land, and doubled its northern extremity beyond which it tended to the fouth-eaflward, In this direction he coafled it for the fpace of twenty leagues, and feeing it was very high, inacceffiblc, and deftitute of trees, he left it, (landing over to the coaft of New Holland, from thence to Timor and Batavia, and at laft back to the Ifle of France, where he died foon after his arrival. On M. de Kerguelen's return to Europe, he was immediately
fent
awaÌy. *"ent out aSain with a 64 gun fhip called the Roland, and the frigate l'Oifeau, captain Rofnevet ; but after having Jlift feen the land, which he had difcovered in his former voyage, he returned without making farther difcoveries. The northern coaft of the land which he difcovered, is fuuated in about 48 degrees fouth latitude, and about 82 degrees eaft longitude from Ferro, or 6 degrees eaft of the Ifle of France, (L c. in about 64° 20'eaft from Greenwich.)
M. de Marion in his expedition of 1772, in January, fell in with fmall iflands in three different places, about ■the latitude of 46!-0 and 471", and about the longitudes of 3 7°, 4#i-i imd 481° eaft from Greenwich. Thefe iflands were all of inconfiderable extent, high, rocky, deftitute of trees, and almoft entirely barren. M. de Marion had two mips under his command, one the Maf-carin, captain Crozet, the other the Caftrie, captain Du Clefmurc. They proceeded to the fouthern extremity of New Holland, or Dieme-n's land, firft feen by Tafman ; and from thence to the bay of iflands in New Zeeland, where M. de Marion was killed with 28 of his men by the natives, of which more (hall be faid in the fequel. After this lofs M. de Crozet, on whom the command devolved, paffed through the weftern part of the South Sea to the Philippines, from whence he returned to the Ifle de Fiance. Agreeably to thefe accounts, the difcoveries of the French voyagers have been laid down in an excellent
lent chart of the fouthern hcmifphere, by M. de Vaugondy, F£8^3;4, under the direction of the duke dc Croy, and publillied in March 1773.
On the 31ft in the evening, our latitude being nearly that of 50° fouth, wc palTed by a large iiland of ice, "which at that inftant crumbled to pieces with a tremendous explofion.    The next morning a bundle of fea weeds Monday i, was feen floating pall the iloop ; and in the afternoon, captain  Furneaux  in the Adventure  having  hailed us, acquainted captain Cook that he had feen a number of divers, refembling thofe in the Englifh feas, and had paft a great bed of floating rock-weeds.   In confequence of thefe obfervations we flood off and on during night, and continued an eafterly courfe the next morning.   We faw many petrels Tu^y». and black fhear-waters, fome rock-wced, and a fingle tern (flema) or as the feamen call it an egg-bird, which  had a forked tail.    At noon we obferved in 48 0 36' fouth latitude, which was nearly the fame in which the French difcoveries are faid to be fituated.  After noon wc flood fouth-Weflward, but the next day the gale encreafed to fuch a degree, as obliged us to hand our topfails, and fland on under the courfes all night : however, at eight o'clock on the 4th, we found a fmooth fea again, and fet more fail, changing our courfe to the north-weftward at noon. On the 6th our latitude at noon was nearly 48 degrees fouth, about 60 degrees eaft from Greenwich, when not feeing v°r- I. Q_ any
February. anv ianti, we gave over the attempt to Hand in fearch of it, arid directed our eourfe once more to the fouh-eaft-ward, to the main object of our voyage. The fmoothnefs of the fea, whilft we had ftrong eafterly gales, however perfuaded us, that there was probably fome land near us to the eaflward, and the fituation given to the French difcoveries, in M. Vaugondy's late chart, lias confirmed our fuppofition f for, according to it, we mufl have been at lead 2 degrees of longitude to the weft of it, on the fecond of Februarv, when we were fartheft to the eaft in the given latitude. Though we did not fall in with the land itfelf, yet we have done fo much fervice to geography by our track, as to put it beyond a doubt, that the French difcovery is a fmall ifland, and not, what it was fuppofed at fir ft to be, the north cape of a great fouthern continent.
On the 8th in the morning, we had an exceeding thick fog, during which we loft fight of the Adventure, our con-fort. We fired guns all that day and the next, at firft every half hour, and afterwards every hour, without receiving any anfwer; and at night we burnt falfe fires, which like-wife proved ineffectual.
On the 10th in the morning, notwithftanding all our endeavours to recover our confort, we were obliged to proceed alone on a difmal courfe to the fouthward, and to expofe ourfelves once more to the dangers of that frozen climate, without the hope of being faved by our fellow-voyagers j
Monday 8,
Wednefd. to.
voyagers, in cafe of lofing our own veiTel. Our parting Fzm\^r with the Adventure, was almoil univerfally regretted among our crew, and none of them ever looked around the ocean without exprefling fome concern on feeing our fhip alone on this vafl and unexplored expanfc, where the appearance of a companion fecmed to alleviate our toils, and infpired checrfulncfs and comfort. We were likewife not entirely without apprchenfions, that the Adventure might have fallen in with land, as the fight of pinguins, of little diving petrels, and efpecially of a kind of grebe, feemed to vindicate its vicinity. Indeed, according to the chart of M. Vaugondy wc mud have been but very little to the fouth of it at that time.
On the 1 7 th we were near 58 degrees fouth, and took wednefd. 17* up a great quantity of fmall ice, with which we filled our water cafks. A variety of petrels and albatrolTcs, had attended us continually; and from time to time the fkua, or great northern gull (larus cutarraóles), which our people called a Port Egmont hen, many pinguins, fome feals, and fome whales had made their appearance near us. A beautiful phenomenon was obferved during the preceding night, which appeared again this and feveral following nights. it confided of long columns of a clear white light, (hooting up from the horizon to the caflward, almoit to the zenith, arui gradually fpreading on the whole fouthern part of the fky.   Thefe columns fometimes were
Q_ z bent
Februarys  ^>ent: "deways at their upper extremity, and though in mod refpects limilar to the northern lights (aurora borealis) of our hemifphere, yet differed from them, in being always of a whitifh colour, whereas ours alTume various tints, efpe-cially thofe of a fiery, and purple hue. The flars were fometimes hid by, and fometimes faintly to be feen through the fubftance of thefe fouthern lights, (aurora aujlralis), which have hitherto, as far as I can find, efcaped the notice of voyagers.    The fky was generally clear when they appeared, and the air fliarp and cold, the thermometer Handing at the freezing point. Wcdnefd.s*.      On the 24th, being in about 62 degrees fouth latitude, we fell in once more with a folid field of ice, which confined  our  progrefs  to  the  fouth,   very   much to the fatisfaction of every body on board.   We had now been long at fea, without receiving any refrefhment ; the favorable feafon for making difcoveries towards the frozen zone, drew to an end ; the weather daily became more fharp, and uncomfortable, and prefaged a dreadful winter in thefe feas ; and, laflly, the nights lengthened apace, and made our navigation more dangerous than it had hitherto been.   It was therefore very natural, that our people, ex-haufled by fatigues and the want of wholefome food, fhould wifh for a place of refrefhment, and rejoice to leave a part of the world, where they could not expect to meet with it. march.    We continued however from this day till the 17 th of March
Wednefd. if,
to
to run to the eaftward, between 61 0 and 58° of fouth la- mZUu. titude, during which time we had a great mare of caflerly winds, which commonly brought fogs, and rains with them, and repeatedly expofed us to the moll imminent danger of being wrecked againft huge iflands of ice. The fhapes of thefe large frozen mafles, were frequently Angularly ruinous, and fo far piciurefque enough j among them we palTcd one of a great fize, with a hollow in the middle, refembling a grotto or cavern, which was pierced through, and admitted the light from the other fide. Some
had the appearance of a fpire or fteeple ; and many others gave full fcope to our imagination, which compared them to feveral known objects, by that means attempting to overcome the tedioufnefs of our cruize, which the fight of birds, porpefTes, feals, and whales, now too familiar to our eyes, could not prevent from falling heavily upon us. Notwithftanding our excellent prefervatives, efpecially the four-krout, feveral of our people had now ftrong fymp-toms of fea-fcurvy^ fuch as bad gums, difficult breathing, livid blotches, eruptions, contracted limbs, and greenifh greafy filaments in the urine. Wort was therefore prefcribed to them, and thofe who were the mod affected drank five pints of it per day ; the contracted limbs were bathed in it, and the warm grains applied to them. By this means we fucceeded to mitigate, and in fome individuals entirely to remove the fymptoms of this horrid difeafe. The rigour 5
gdurs of the climate likewife violently alTecied the live fheep, which we had embarked at the Cape of Good Hope. They were covered with eruptions, dwindled to mere fkeletons, and would hardly take any nourilhment. Our goats and fows too, mifcarried in the tempeftuous weather, or their olT-fpring were killed by the cold. In fhort, we felt, from the numerous concurrent circumilances, that it was time to abandon the high fouthern latitudes, and retire to fome port, where our crew might obtain refrefhments, and where we might fave the few fheep, which were intended as prefents to the natives of the Soutlvfea iflands.
On the ióth, being in about 58 degrees of fouth latitude, we faw the fea luminous at night, though not to fuch a degree as we had obferved it near the Cape, but only by means of fome fcattered fparks. This phenomenon was however remarkable, on account of the high latitude we were in, and the cold weather, our thermometer being at 33+0 at noon. We faw the fouthern lights again during the nights of the 1 6th and 1 9th ; and this laft time, the columns formed an arch acrofs the iky, rather brighter than any we had hitherto feen. We now flood to the north -eaftward, in order to reach the fouth end of New-Zealand; and on this courfe we had flrong gales, and frequently faw weeds, cfpecially rock-weeds, together with numbers of petrels, and other birds. We were much amufed by a fingular chace of feveral fkuas or great grey gulls,
after
after a large white albatrofs. The fkuas feemed to get the h$7*L better of this bird, notwithstanding its length of wings, and whenever they overtook it, they endeavoured to attack it under the belly, probably knowing that to be the moll defencelefs part ; the albatrofs on thefe occafions had no other method of efcaping, than by fettling on the water, where its formidable beak feemed to keep them at bay. The fkuas are in general very ftrong and rapacious birds, and in the Ferro Iflands frequently tear lambs to pieces, and. carry them away to their ncfls.    The albatroilcs do not
feem to be fo rapacious, but live upon fmall marine animals, efpecially of the mollufca, or blubber clafs. They appeared in great numbers around us, as we came to the. northward of 50 degrees fouth, only few folitary birds having gone fo far to the fouth as we had penetrated ; from whence it may be inferred, that they arc properly inhabitants of the temperate zone.
As we flood to the northward, we alfo obferved more fèals every day, which came from the coafl of New Zeeland.. A large trunk of a tree, and feveral bunches of weeds were feen on the 25th, and greatly exhilarated the fpirics of our Thmfday *f, failors. Soon after, the land was defcried, bearing N. E. by E. at a vafl diflancc. About five o'clock in the afternoon we were within a few miles of it, and faw fome high mountains inland, and a broken rocky coafl before us, where feveral inlets feemed to indicate an extenfivc bay or found..
We
We tried foundings in 30 fathoms, but found none; however, at the mail-head they obferved funken rocks clofe to us, on which we immediately tacked, and flood off lhore, as the weather was growing dark and mifly. The next morning we found this part of New Zeeland lay to the fouthward of Cape Weft, and had not been explored by captain Cook, in the Endeavour.
Thus ended our firft cruize in the high fouthern latitudes, after a fpace of four months and two days, out of fight of land, during which we had experienced no untoward accident, and had been fafely led through numerous dangers by the guiding hand of Providence, which prefervcd our crew in good health during the whole time, a few individuals excepted.   Our whole coinfe, from the Cape of Good Hope to New Zeeland, was a feries of hardihips, which had never been experienced before: all the difagrccable circum-fiances of the fails and rigging fhattercd to pieces, the velici rolling gunwale to, and her upper works torn by the violence of the drain ; the concomitant effecis of ftorms, which have been painted with fuch ftrong expreflion, and blaeknefs of Coforit, by the able writer of Anion's Voyage, were, perhaps the leaf! diftrcfhng occurrences of ours.    We had the perpetual feverities of a rigorous climate to cope with ; our feamcn and officers were expofed to rain, fleet, hail, and fnow j our rigging was conftantly encruflcd with ice, which cut the hands of thofe who were obliged to touch itj our
provi fion
provifion of frefh water was to be collected in lumps of mIrVh, ice floating on the fea, where the cold, and the fharp faline element alternately numbed, an/* icarified the failors1 limbs ; we were perpetually expofed to the danger of running againft huge malTes of ice, which filled the immenfe Southern ocean: the frequent and fudden appearance of thefe perils, required an almofl continual exertion of the vvhole crew, to manage the fhip with the greatefl degree of precifion and difpatch. The length of time which wc remained out of fight of land, and the long abllinence from any fort of refrefhment were equally diflrefsful ; for our hooks and lines diflributcd in November (See pag. 90.) had hitherto been of no fervigp, on account of our navigation in high fouthern latitudes, and acrofs an unfathomable ocean, where we faw no filli except whales, and where it is well known no others can be expected ; the torrid zone being the only one where they may be caught4 out of foundings.
•-Atrum
Defendens pifces hiemat mare. Horat.
We may add to thefe the difmal gloominefs which always prevailed in the fouthern latitudes, where we had impenetrable fogs lafling for weeks together, and where we rarely faw the cheering face of the fun j a circum-ftance which alone is fufheient to deject the mofl un-
Vol. I. R , daunted,
daunted, and to four the fpirits of the moft cheerful. It is therefore juftly to be wondered at, and ought to be confidered as a diftinguifhing mark of divine protection, that we had not felt thofe ill effects which might have been expected, and juftly dreaded as the refult of fuch accumulated diftreffes.
CHAP.
March, 1773»
CHAP. V.
Stay at Dujky Bay j defcription of it, and account of our tranf^
aclions there*
A ETER an interval of one hundred and twenty-two ^ ~ days, and a run of above three thoufand five hundred leagues, out of fight of land, we entered Dufky Bay on the 26 th of March about noon. This bay is fituated Friday*^ a little to the northward of Cape Weft, and captain Cook, in his voyage in the Endeavour, had difcovered and named it without entering into it *. The foundings gave about 40 fathoms in the entrance, but as we advanced, we had no ground with 60, and therefore were obliged to pulii on farther. The weather was delightfully fair, and genially warm, when compared to what we had lately experienced ; and we glided along by infenfible degrees, wafted by light airs, pall numerous rocky iilands, each of which was covered with wood and ilirubberies, where numerous evergreens were fweetly contrafled and mingled with the various {hades of autumnal yellow. Flocks of aquatic birds enlivened the rocky fhores, and the whole country refounded with the wild notes of the feathered
• See Huwltefworth's compilation, vol. III. p. 424.
R 2 tribe.
?™'H tribe. We bad long and eagerly wifhed for the land and its vegetable productions, and therefore could not but eye the profpect before us with peculiar delight, and with emotions of joy and fatisfaction which were flrongly marked in the countenance of each individual.
About three o'clock in the afternoon, we dropped an anchor under a point of an ifland, where we were in fome meafure flickered from the fea, and fo near the fhore, as to reach it with a hawfer. The floop was no fooner in fafety, than every failor put his hook and line overboard, and in a few moments numbers of fine filli were hauled upon all parts of the veiTel, which heightened the raptures we had already felt at our entrance into this bay. The real good tafle of the fiffi, joined to our long abftinence, inclined us to look upon our firfl meal here, as the mod, delicious we had ever made in our lives. The view of rude fceneries in the ft) lc of Rofi, of antediluvian forefls which cloathed the rock, and of numerous rills of water, which every where rolled down the deep declivity, altogether confpircd to complete our joy ; nnd fo apt is mankind, after a long abfence from land, to be prejudiced in favour of the wildefl fhore, that we looked upon the country at that time, as one of the mod beautiful which nature unafTided by art could produce. Such are the general ideas of travellers and voyagers long exhauded
by
by diftrclTes ; and with fuch warmth of imagination they M^l*ù, have viewed the rude cliffs of Juan Fernandez, and the impenetrable forefts of Tinian !
Immediately after dinner two boats were fent out to reconnoitre different parts of the bay, and chiefly to look for a fafe harbour for our veffd, the firfl anchoring-place being open, inconvenient, and only ferving the ncceffny of the moment. We improved thefe opportunities of pur-fuing our researches in natural hiftory, and fcparated in order to profit by both excurfions. Each of the parties found convenient and well-fheltered harbours, with plenty of wood and water j and wherever they went they met with fuch abundance of fifh and water-fowl, that they entertained hopes of a conflant fupply of refrefhments during their flay in thefe parrs. This profpect prevailed upon Capt. Cook, who had but curforily examined the fouthern extremities of New-Zeeland in his former voyage, to fpend fome time there, in order to gain a more competent knowledge of its fituation and productions. On our part, we perceived a new flore of animal and vegetable bodies, and among them hardly any that were perfectly fimilar to the known fpecies, and feveral not analogous even to the* known genera. With thefe therefore we hoped to be wholly employed during our flay, in fpight of the ap~ proach of autumnj which feemed to threaten the vegetable creation.
Early
Early the next morning, a fmall boat having been fent out towards the fhore, returned in three hours time with as many fifhes, caught by the hook, as fupplied a plenti-fnl dinner to all on board. The beft and mofl favoury fifli was a fpecies of the cod, which, from its external colour, our failors called a coal-fifh : befrdes this we caught feveral fpecies of excellent flat cavalhas (fci&nc?)t fome fcor-pens, mullets, horfe-mackrel, and many other forts of a line tafte, which were entirely unknown in Europe. At nine o'clock we got under fail and went into Pickerfgill harbour, one of thofe examined the preceding day, where the fhip was moored head and flern in a fmall creek, and fo near the fhore, that we could reach it by means of a flage of a few planks. Nature had affifted us for this pur-pofe with a large tree, projecting in an horizontal pofition over the water, of which we placed the top on our gunwale, connecting our planks with it. This fituation facilitated all our operations, and was particularly adapted to the conveniency of wooding and watering, for our Hoop's yards were locked in the branches of furrounding trees, and about half a mufket fhot a-flern we had a fine flream of frefh water.
We now began to clear away the woods from a neighbouring hill, in order to fix the aflronomer's obfervatory upon it, and to eflablifh our forge there, as our iron-works wanted repairs.   Near the watering-place we pitched tents for the
fail-
fail-makers, coopers, waterers, and wood-cutters. Thefe occupations ferved to lower the great idea which our people had conceived of this country j for the prodigious intricacy of various climbers, briars, fhrubs, and ferns which were interwoven throughout the forefls, rendered the talk of clearing the ground extremely fatiguing and difficult, and almoft precluded the accefs to the interior parts of the country. It is indeed reafonable to fuppofe, that in the fouthern parts of New-Zeeland, the forefls have never been touched by human induftry, but have remained in the rude unimproved fiate of nature fmce their firfl exiftence. Our excurfions into them gave us fufficient grounds for this fuppofition; for not only the climbing plants and fhrubs obdructed our paffage, but likewife numbers of rotten trees lay in our way, felled by winds and old age, A new generation of young trees, of parafitic plants, ferns, and moffes fprouted out of the rich mould to which this old timber was reduced by length of time, and a deceitful bark fometimes flill covered the interior rotten fub-dance, whereon if we attempted to ftep, we funk in to the waift. The animal creation afforded another proof that this country had not yet undergone any changes from the hands of mankind, and indeed at firfl raifed the idea, that Dufky Bay was wholly uninhabited. Numbers of fmall birds which, dwelt in the woods were fo little acquainted with men, that they familiarly hopped upon the
nearefl
ncarefl branches, nay on the ends of our fowling-pieces, and perhaps looked at us as new objects, with a curiofity fimilar to our own.    This little boldnefs in reality at firfl protected them from harm, fince it was impoffible to fhoot them when they approached fo near ; but in a few days it frequently proved the means of their deflruction; for a fly cat on board, had no fooner perceived fo excellent an opportunity of obtaining delicious meals, than me regularly took a walk in the woods every morning, and made great havock among the little birds, that were not aware of fuch an infidious enemy.
As we had plenty of fifh, and faw a number of water-birds which might afford us a variety of animal food, fome of our botanical cxcurfions were in a great meafure inftituted in fearch of ufeful vegetables, to be eaten as greens. From thence the moll falutary effects might be expected, by a fet of people who had been above feven-teen weeks at fea, and whofe blood mufl have been more or lefs corrupted by living fo long on fait provifions.
On the firfl day after our arrival we found a beautiful tree in flower, fomething related to the myrtle genus, of which an infufion had been drank inflead of tea in Capt. Cook's former voyage. We immediately repeated the experiment with great eagernefs, as we had not yet feen any plant which was fit to be ufed at our tables. Its leaves were finely aromatic, aflringent, and had a particular plea-
fant
fant flavour at the firfl infufion -, but this fine tafle went JJJj^ ofT at the next filling up of the tea- pot, and a great degree of bitternefs was then extracted. We therefore never fuf-fercd it to be twice infufed. The ufe of this plant, which became general among our crew, probably contributed greatly to rettore their flrength, and to remove all fcorbu-tic fymptoms. A plant, which might be of fervice to future navigators, deferved to be drawn, in order that they might know it again. We have therefore very readily permitted Captain Cook to make ufe of our drawing of it,
from which a plate has been engraved by order of the Admiralty, intended to accompany his own account of this voyage. In a fine foil in thick forefls it grows to a confiderable tree, fometimes thirty or forty feet high, and above a foot in diameter ; on a hilly arid expofure I have, on the contrary, found it as a little fhrub, fix inches high, which bore flowers and feed ; but its ufual fize is about eight or ten feet, and about three inches in diameter. In that cafe its flem is irregular and unequal, dividing very foon into branches which rife at acute angles, and only bear leaves and flowers at top. The flowers are white and very ornamental to the whole plant. Another tree, which grew in great plenty round about us, was likewife tried, and afforded a good infufion ; but the refemblance it bore to the trees of the fir tribe, and a kind of refinous tafle, foon convinced us that it was fitter to ferve the purpofes of Vol, I. s the
the American fpruce-tree, and that a palatable and whole-fome liquor might be brewed from it, as a kind of fubfli-tute for fpruce-beer *. In effect, with the addition of the infpilTated juice of wort, and of fome molalTcs, we brewed a very good fort of beer, which we improved very confi-derably afterwards, by correcting the too great aflringen-cy of our new fpruce, with an equal quantity of the new tea-tree. Its tafle was pleafant, and fomething bitter ; and the only fault we could obferve in it was, that being taken on an empty flomach, it frequently caufed a naufea or ficknefs ; but in all other refpects it proved a very falu-tary drink. The fpruce of New-Zecland is a very beautiful tree, and confpicuous on account of its pendant branches, which are loaded with numerous long threadlike leaves, of a vivid green. It frequently grows to the height of fifty or fixty, and even one hundred feet, and has above ten feet in girth. Though the fpruce and the tea-trees alone afforded articles of refrefhment in Dufky Bay ; yet we found the woods full of trees of various kinds, very fit for the ufe of fhipwrights, joiners, and other mechanics ; and Capt. Cook was of opinion that, except in the river Thames on the northern ifland, he had not obferved a finer growth of timber on all New-Zeeland.
* This ufeful plant deferves adefcription for the benefit of the navigator* but, notwithftanding all our refearches, wc could never find it cither in flower or in fruit, owing to the unfavourable feafons in which we vifited New-Zeeland.
We
.We had not been above two .Jays in this bay, before mY*ch. we found that our opinion of its being uninhabited was uu ay premature. On the 28th in the morning feveral of our officers went a fhooting in a fmall boat, and on entering a cove two or three miles from the fhip, perceived feveral natives upon a beach, who were about to launch their canoe, The New Zeelanders halioo'd at their approach, and fceming by this means more numerous than they really were, the officers thought proper to return and acquaint the captain with their difcovery ; a flop which they found the more neceflary, as the weather was very rainy, and might, in cafe of danger, have prevented their pieces from going off. They were fcarccly returned on> board, when a canoe * appeared off a point, at about a mile's diflance from the floop ; there were feven or eight people in ir, who looked at us for fome time, but notwithftanding all the figns of friendfhip which we could make, fuch as calling to them to come to us, waving a white cloth, and promifing beads, they did not care to come nearer, and paddled back again the fame way they came. They appeared to be dreffed in mats, and had hroad paddles with which they managed their canoe, like the inhabitants in the northern parts of New Zeeland.
W c fhall always make ufe of this word to fignify an Indian embarkation, ■iinlcfs we mean to defcribe or fpecify it more particularly,
S 2 Captain
Captain Cook refelvcd to vifit them in the afternoon, in order to quiet the apprehenfion which they feemed to have entertained.   Wc went in two boats, accompanying him and feveral of the officers into the cove, where the natives had been firfl feen.   Here we found a double canoe hauled upon the fhore, near fome old, low huts, about which we law vcftiges of fire places, fome nfhing-nets, and a few fcattered fifli.    The canoe which appeared to be old and in bad order, confided of two troughs or boats joined together with flicks, tied acrofs the gunwales with firings of the New Zeeland flax-plant *.    Each part confined of planks fowed together with ropes  made of the flax-plant, and had a carved head coarfcly reprefenting av human face, with eyes made of round pieces of ear-fhell, which fomcwhat rcfemblcd mother of pearl.   This canoe contained two paddles, a bafket full of berries of the coriaria riifcifoìia Lin. and fome fifhes ; but the natives were not to be feen or heard, which gave us reafon to believe that they had retired into the woods.    To conciliate their good will, we left fome medals, looking-glaffes, beads, &c. in the canoe, and embarked again after a fhort flay. We then rowed to the head of the cove, in order to furvey it, where we found a fine brook of frefh water coming down on a flat beach, from whence the water continued fhallow to a con-
* See Hawkefworth's compilation, vol, III, p. 445.
fiderable
fiderable extent, fo that our boat ran aground feveral M*< times. Ducks, (hags, black oyfler-catchers, and fome forts of plovers were very numerous here. At our return we vifited the canoe again, added a hatchet to the other prefents which we had left before, and to mew the ufe of it, we cut feveral chips out of a tree, and left it flicking there. No natives appeared this fecond time, though we imagined they could not be far off, as wc thought we could fmell the fmoke of a fire. However, captain Gook defifled at prefent from fearching in the woods, linee they
purpofely avoided us, and choofing to leave it to time and their own free will to cultivate an intercourfe with us, he Mond returned on board late in the evening.
Heavy mowers of rain fell all the next morning, but intermitted in the afternoon, giving us an opportunity of soing into the woods above our cove, where the rains had
o o
fo thoroughly foaked the foil, that together with the other impediments in walking in this country, the prodigious flipperinefs rendered our excurfion laborious and fatiguing. We met however with a few plants, which Hill fhe wed Torneiate bloffoms, notwithflanding the advanced feafon ; bur we were at the fame time greatly tantalized by the appearance of numerous trees and fhrubs, which had already lofi their flowers and fruits, and only ferved to give us an idea of the great profufion of new vegetables in mis country.
The:
The two following days we were entirely confined on board, on account of the rain and flormy weather ; which not a little damped our fpirits, and gave us reafon to fear we fhould fpend the remainder of our time very dif-agreeably. However, on the iff of April in the afternoon, we took the advantage of a lucid interval to make another vifit to the cove where wc had feen the Indians. We found every thing in the fame fituation as we had left it, and it did not appear that any perfon had been near the canoe lince that time. The weather being now fair, we faw this cove in all its perfection. It is fo fpacious that a whole fleet of mips may lie at anchor in ir, and fome of the loftiefl hills in all the bay encompafs it on the fouth-wcfl fide, and are entirely covered with woods from the fummit to the water's fide. The different projecting points, and the various iflands in the bay, form altogether a pic-turefque and pleafing fcene. The fmoothnefs of the water, illumined by the fetting fun, the different degrees of verdure, and the various notes of birds which fefounded throughout the whole cove during this calm evening, greatly foftened the rude, uncultivated outlines of this landfcape.
The pleafure we had enjoyed in the evening, induced us to return to the cove again the next day, which continued to be perfectly fair.   We fet out at  fun-rife,  and did not  return till late in the evening,   with a confiderable
able acquifition of new birds, and plants. We had a young dog with us at this time, which the officers had taken on board at the Gape of Good Hope, and intended to try, whether we could not train him up to the gun : but wc had no fooner difcharged the firfl. fowling-piece, than he ran into the woods, and would not return, though we ufed all pof-fible means to recover him. Captain Cook likewife took the opportunity of the fair weather, to examine different parts of the bay ; and couched at a little rock, near our firfl anchoring place, which had already at that time acquired the name of Seal-rock, from the animals that came to fleep upon it. Here he found a number of feals, and killed three of them, among which one afforded him great fport: for having been repeatedly wounded, it became quite furious, and attacked the boat, where it was at laft killed. It weighed 220 pounds, was about fix feet long, and very lean. After he had paffed feveral ifles, he reached the north-weft part of the bay, formed by the land of Point Five-fingers : there, at the bottom of a fine cove, he found a great variety of aquatic birds, of which he killed and brought on board a confiderable number.
Another rainy paufe of three days followed this cxcurfion, confining us to our fhip, where a fort of little crane-flies (tipula alls incumbentibus), which had plagued us ever lince our entrance into Dufky Bay, became remarkably trouble-fome during the bad weather.   They were numerous in the
fkirts
jLejS ikirts of the woods, not half fo large as gnats or mufketoes, and our failors called them fand-flies. Their fling was extremely painful, and as often as the hand or face grew warm, caufed a troublefomc itching, the lead irritation of which brought on a very violent fwelling, attended with great pain. We were, however, not all equally affected; myfelf in particular, never felt any great inconvenience from them ; others, on the contrary, fullered in a very violent degree, efpecially my father, who could not hold a pen to write down the common occurrences in a journal, and fell into a high fever at night. Various remedies were tried, but all proved ineffectual, except the fimple unction with foft pomatum, and the conllant ufe of gloves. ,
ruefdayj. Early on the 6th, feveral of the officers went into the -cove, which the captain had difcovered on the 2d j and the latter, accompanied by Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf proceeded in another boat, to continue the furvcy of the bay, to copy views from nature, and to fearch for the natural productions of the country. We directed our courfe to the north fide, where we found a fine fpacious cove from which we had not the leaf! profpect of the fea. Along its llccp Chores we obferved feveral fmall but beautiful caf-.cjdes, which fell from vafl heights, and greatly improved •the fcene ; they gufhed out through the midft of the woods, and at lail fell in a clear column, to which a fhip might jic fo near, as to fill her cafks on board with the greatefl
fafety.
fafety, by means of a leather tube, which the failors call jJJ^ a hofe.    At the bottom there was a fhallow muddy part, with a little beach of fhell-fand, and a brook, as in all the greater coves of the bay.   In this fine place, we found a number of wild fowl, and particularly wild ducks, of which we fhot fourteen, from whence we gave it the name of Duck Cove.    As \vq were returning home, we heard a loud hallooing on the rocky point of an ifland, which on this occafion obtained the name of Indian Ifland ; and Handing in to the fhore, we perceived one of the natives, from whom this noife proceeded.   He flood with a club or battle-axe in his hand, on a projecting point, and behind him on the fkirts of the wood we faw two women, each of them having a long fpear.   When our boat came to the foot of the rock, we called to him, in the language of Taheitce, tayo, torre mai, " friend, come hither »"   he did not, however, flir from his pofl, but held a long fpeech, at certain intervals pronouncing it with great earneftnefs and vehemence, and fwinging round his club, on which he leaned at other times.   Captain Cook went to the head of the boat, called to him in a friendly manner, and threw him his own and fome other handkerchiefs, which he would not pick up. The captain then taking fome meets of white paper in his hand, landed on the rock unarmed, and held the paper out to the native.   The man now trembled very vifibly, and having exhibited flrong marks of fear ia his countenance, Vol. I. T took
a/rÌl. t0°k tne PaPer : uPon which captain Cook coming up to him, took hold of his hand, and embraced him, touching the man's nofe with his own, which is their mode of falu-tation. His apprehenfion was by this means diffipated, and he called to the two women, who came and joined him, while feveral of us landed to keep the captain company. A lliort converfation enfued, of which very little was underflood on both fides, for want of a competent knowledge of the language. Mr. Hodges immediately took ikctches of their countenances, and their geftures fliewed that they clearly underftood what he was doing ; on which they called him toa-toa, that term being probably applicable to the imitative arts. The man's countenance was very pleafingand open; one of the women, which we afterwards believed to be his daughter, was not wholly fo difagreeable as one might have expected in New Zeeland, but the other was remarkably ugly, and had a prodigious excrefcence on her upper lip. They were all of a dark brown or olive complexion y their hair was black, and curling, and fmeared with oil and ruddle ; the man wore his tied upon the crown of the head, but the women had it cut fliort. Their bodies were tolerably well proportioned in the upper part ; but they had remarkable flender, ill-made, and bandy legs. Their drefs conGfled of mats made of the New Zeeland flax-plant %
* See Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. Ill, p. 443.
interwoven
interwoven with feathers ; and in their ears they wore jS!&t fmall pieces of white albatrofs fkins ftained with ruddle or ochre.   We offered them fome fifties and wild fowl, but they threw them back to us, intimating that they did not want provifions.   The approaching night obliged us to retire, not without promifmg our new friends a viflt the next morning.   The man remained fileni, and looked after us with compofure and great attention, which feemed to fpeak a profound meditation ; but the youngeft of the two women, whofe vociferous volubility of tongue exceeded every thing we had met with, began to dance at our departure, and continued to be as loud as ever.   Our fea-men paffed feveral coarfe jefls on this occafion, but nothing was more obvious to us than the general drift of nature, which not only provided man with a partner to alleviate his cares and fweeten his labours, but endowed that partner likewife with a defire of pleafing by a fuperior degree of vivacity and affability.
The next morning we returned to the natives, and pre- wednefdayj. fented them with feveral articles which we had brought with us for that purpofe. But fo much was the judgment °f the man fuperior to that of his countrymen, and moft of the South Sea nations *, that he received almoft every thing with indifference, except what he immediately con-
See Hawkefworth's Compilation, * T a
ceived
ceived the ufe of, fuch as hatchets and large fpike-nails. At this interview he introduced his whole family to us, confiding of two women, whom we fuppofed to be his wives j the young woman, a boy of about fourteen years of age, and three fmallcr children, of which the youngcfl was at the bread. One of the wives had the exerefcence or wen on the upper lip, and was evidently neglected by the man, probably on account of her difagrecable appearance. They conducted us foon after to their habitation,, which lay but a few yards within the wood, on a low hill, and confined of two mean huts, made of a few dicks thatched with unprepared leaves of the flax-plant, and covered with the bark of trees. In return for our prefents they parted with feveral of their ornaments and weapons, particularly the battle-axes, but they did not choofe to give us their fpears. When we were preparing to re-embark, the man came to the water-fide, and prefentcd to Captain Cook a drefs made of the flax plant, a belt of weeds, fome beads made of a little bird's bones, and fome albatrofs fkins. We were at firft of opinion that thefe were only intended as a retribution for what he had received, but he foon undeceived us by mewing a drong defire of poifclT-ing one of our boat-cloaks*. We were not charitable enough to part with our cloaths, when we knew the defi-
* Boat-cloaks are commonly of prodigious dimenfions and great width, fo that the whole body may be wrapped into them feveral times.
ciency
dency could not be fupplied again; but as foon as we ap"il» came on board, Captain Cook ordered a large cloak to be made of red baize, which wc brought to the man at our next vifit.
The rain prevented our going to him the next morning, Thurfdiy 8. but in the afternoon, the weather being a little more pro-mifing, we returned to Indian Iiland. However, at our approach, inflead of being welcomed by the natives on the more, we faw none of them, and received no anfwer when we fhoutcd to them. We landed therefore, and having proceeded to their habitation, foon found the reafon of this unufual behaviour. They were preparing to receive Us in all their finery, fome being already completely adorned, and others Hill bufy in dreiTing. Their hair was combed, tied on the crown of the head, and anointed with fome oil or greafe ; white feathers were fluck in at the top j fome had fillets òf white feathers all round the head, and others wore pieces of an albatrofs fkin, with its fine white down in their ears. Thus fitted out, they fhout-ed at our approach, and received us Handing, with marks of friendfhip and great courtefy. The captain wore the new cloak of baize on his own fhoulders, and now took it off and prefented the man with it ; he, on his part, feemed fo much pleafed with ir, that he immediately drew out of his girdle a pattoo-pattoo, or fliort flat club made of a great fifh's bone, and gave it to the Captain in
return;
return for fo valuable an acquifition. We endeavoured to enter into converfation ; but, though Captain Cook had taken Gibfon, the corporal of marines, with him for that purpofe, he being fuppofed to know more of the language* than any other perfon on board, yet all our attempts to be underftood proved fruitlefs, becaufe it feemed this family had a peculiar harfhnefs of pronunciation. We therefore took leave of them, and proceeded to furvey different parts of the bay, fifhing at intervals, mooting birds, and collecting fhells, and other marine productions among the rocks. Tbc weather was cloudy all this time, though it did not rain where we were j but when we returned to our fhip's cove, we were told it had rained there inceffantly in our abfence. The fame obfervation we had frequent opportunities of making during our fojourn in Dufky Bay. The probable caufe of this difference of weather at fuch little diftances, are the high mountains which run along the fouth ihore of the bay, gradually floping towards the weft cape. Thefe mountains being almoft conftantly capped with clouds, our cove, which lay immediately under, and was furrounded by them, was of courfe expofed to the vapours, which perpetually appeared moving with various velocities along the fides of the hills, involving the tops of the trees over which they paffed in a
* He was particularly verfed in the language of the i/le of O-Taheitee ; and there is only a difference of dialccl between it and the language of New Zeeland.
kind
kind of white femi-opaque mift, and defc'cnding upon us at laft in rains or in fogs which wetted us to the fkin. The ifles in the northern part not having fuch high hills to attrae!: and flop the clouds coming from the fca^ permitted them to pafs freely on to the very bottom of the hay to the Alps, which we faw covered with perpetual mow. The two next days the rains were fo heavy that no work could be done ; the perpetual moifture which defcended in this place caufed fuch a dampnefs in all parts of our vcfTel, as could not fail to become very un-wholefome, and to deftroy all the collections of plants which had been made. Our Hoop lying fo near the fhore, which was deep and fhaggy with over-hanging woods, was involved in almoft conftant darknefs, even in fair weather, and much more fo during the fogs and rains, fo that we were obliged to light candles at noon. But the conftant fupply of frefh. fifli considerably alleviated thefe dif-agreeable circumftanccs, and, together with the fpruce-beer and the myrtle-tea, contributed to keep us healthy and ftrong even in this damp climate. We were now indeed become perfect ichthyophagih for many amongft us entirely lived upon fidi. The fear of being cloyed with this delicious food, often fet us at work to invent new methods of preparing it, iQ order to deceive the palate ; and we accordingly made fOUps, and pafties, boiled, fried, roaded, and ftewed our fifties.   But it was pleafant to obferve, that
all
i 4 4
A   VOYAGE  ROUND  THE WORLD.
all the arts of cookery only tended to furfeit the fooner, for thofe who wifely confined themfelves to plain boiling in fea water, always did honour to their meals j
As if increafe of appetite had grown
By what it fed on.- shakespeare.
But what was more fingular than all, was, that in order to prevent any diflike to our food, we confined ourfelves, among a great variety of different forts, chiefly to one fpecies of fifties, which our failors from its dark colour, called the coal-fifli, and which in tafte nearly refcmbled our Englifli cod, being of the fame genus. Its meat was firm, juicy, and nutritive ; but not fo rich and fat as that of many other fpecies, which we found very delicious, but could not continually feed upon. A very fine fpecics of crayfifh (cancer homarus Lin.) larger than the lobfter, fome fhell-fifli, and now and then a cormorant, duck, pigeon, or parrot gave us an agreeable variety at our table, which, compared to its appearance when at fea, was now luxurious and profufe.
Every pcrfon in our floop experienced the good effe els of this change of diet j nay every animal on board feemed to be benefited by it, except our fheep, which were not likely to fare fo well as ourfelves. The nature of the country accounts for this difagrecable circumftance. The whole fouthern extremity of Tavaf-poe-namoo, or the fouthern iQand of New Zeeland, and cfpecially the land
about
about Dufky Bay coniìfts entirely of iteep rocky mountains, with craggy precipices, clad with thick forefls, and either barren or covered with fnow on their fummits. No meadows and lawns are to be met with, and the only flat land we found, was fituated at the head of deep coves, where a brook fell into the fea, which probably by depofiting the earth and flones it brought from the hills, had formed this low and level ground. But even there the whole was over-run with woods and briars, and we could not find a fingle fpot of ground which might have afforded paflure, the grafs which grew on fome beaches being very hard and coarfe. However, after we had taken pains to furnifh our fheep with the frefheft fprouts which we could meet with, we were furprifed that they would not touch any of them : but upon examination we found that their teeth were loofe, and that many of them had every fymptom of an inveterate fea fcurvy. Of four ewes and two rams which captain Cook brought from the Cape of Good Hope, with an intent to put them on fhore in New Iceland, we had only been able to preferve one of each f£x, and thefe were in fo wretched a condition, that their further prefervation was very doubtful. If future navigators mean to make fuch valuable prefents, as cattle of any fort to the inhabitants of the South Sea, the only probable method 0f bringing them fafcly thither, would be to take the fliortefl route poffible from the Cape to New v°l. I. U Zeeland,
Zeeland, in the middle latitudes, and in the beft of feafons, when they may expect a quick paffage, and no fevere cold.
On the i i th, the fky being clear and ferene promifed a fair day, which was very much wanted, in order to dry our fails and lin^n, as we had not been able to do either fince our arrival in this bay. Wc likewife obtained the ufe of a boar, in order to increafe the number of our obfervations on the productions of nature. We directed our courfe to the cove where we had feen the iirft canoe of the natives, and particularly to a water fall, which we had obferved from afar a few days ago, and which had induced us to call this inlet Cafcade Cove. This water-fall, at the diftance of a mile and a half, feems to be but inconfiderable, on account of its great elevation ; but after climbing about two hundred yards upwards, we obtained a full profpect of it, and found indeed a view of great beauty and grandeur before us. The firft object which ftrikes the beholder, is a clear column of water, apparently eight or ten yards in circumference, which is projected with great impetuofity from the perpendicular rock, at the height of one hundred yards. Nearly at the fourth part of the whole height,, this column meeting a part of the fame rock, which now acquires a little inclination, fpreads on its broad back into a limpid fheet of about twenty-five yards in width. Here its furface is curled* and dallies upon every little eminence
in
in its rapid defcent, till it is all collected in a fine bafon about fixty yards in circuit, included on three fides by the natural walls of the rocky chafm, and in front by huge malTes of flone irregularly piled above each other. Between them the dream finds its way, and runs foaming with the greatefl rapidity along the flopc of the hill to the fea. The whole neighbourhood of the cafcade, to a diftance of an hundred yards a. ound, is filled with the ileam or watery vapour formed by the violence of the fall. This mift however was fo thick, 'hat it penetrated our clothes in a few minutes, as effectually as a fhower of rain would have done. We mounted on the higheft (tone before the bafon, and looking down into it, were {truck with the fight of a moft beautiful rainbow of a perfectly circular form, which was produced by the meridian rays of the fun refracted in the vapour of the cafe He. Beyond'this circle the reft of the fleam was tinge 1 with the prifmatic colours, refracted in an inverted order. The fcencry on the left confiils of ftecp, brown rocks, fringed on the fummits with over-hanging fhrubs and trees ; on the right there is a vaft heap of large flones, probably hiuùed clown from the impending mountain's brow, by the force of the torrent. From thence rifes a Hoping bank, aboui feventy-five yards high, on which a wall of uvemy-uve yards pei pendicular is placed, crowned with verdure and ihtubberies. Still farther to the righr, the broken rocks are clothed with m'oftcs, ferns, grades,
U % and
and various flowers ; nay feveral fhrubs, and trees to the height of forty feet, rife on both fides of the flream, and hide its courfe from the fun. The noife of the cafcade is fo loud, and fo repeatedly reverberated from the echoing rocks, that it drowns almoft every other found ; the birds feemed to retire from it to a little diftance, where the fhrill notes of thrufhes, the graver pipe of wattle-birds, and the enchanting melody of various creepers refounded on all fides, and completed the beauty of this wild and romantic fpot. On turning round we beheld an cxtenftve bay, flrewed as it were with fmall iflands, which are covered with lofty trees ; beyond them on one fide, the mountains rife ma-jeflic on the main land, capt with clouds and perpetual fnow ; and on the other, the immenfe ocean bounded our view.    The grandeur of this fcene was fuch, that the powers of defcription fall fhort of the force and beauty of nature, which could only be truly imitated by the pencil of Mr, Hodges, who went on this voyage with us j and whofe performances do great credit and honour to his judgment and execution, as well as to the,choice of his employers.   Satisfied with the contemplation of this magnificent fight, we directed our attention next to the flowers which enlivened the ground, and the fmall birds which fung very cheerfully all round us.   We had as yet found neither the vegetable nor animal creation fo beautiful, or fo numerous, in any part of this bay ; perhaps, becaufe
the
the flrong refraction of the fun-beams from the perpendi-lar walls of rock, and the fheltcr from florins, made the climate confiderably more mild and genial in this fpot than in any other part. The foil was in nothing different here from that in other parts round the bay, but feemed to be the fame vegetable mould ; and the rocks and flones about the cafcade confifled of maffes of granite, or moor-flone (faxum), and of a kind of brown talcous clay-flonc, in ftrata, which is common to all New Zeeland.
We returned on board before fun-fet, well plcafed with our acquifitions during this  excurfion.    At our return t we were told, that the Indian family, whom wc had feen paddling into the cove, in the morning, in their beft attire, had gradually approached the fhip with great caution. Captain Cook meeting them in a boat, quitted it, and went into their canoe, but could not prevail on them to come along-fide of the fhip, and was obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination.  At length they went afhore, in a little creek hard by ours, and afterwards came and fat down on the fhore abrcaft of the veffel, to which they were near enough to be heard, and fpoken to.    The captain gave orders to play the fife and bagpipe, and to beat the drum ; but they entirely difregarded the two firft, and were not very attentive to the laft, nor could any thing induce them to come on board.    Several of our officers and feamcn then going on more to them, were received with great goodnature,
A7i\è nature, and attempted to converfe with them by figns, which were for the mod part unintelligible, or mifunderflood. However, the young woman fhewed a great partiality to a young fcaman, and from her geftures it was fuppofed fhe took him for one of her own fex ; but whether he had taken fome improper liberties, or whether fhe had any other reafon to be difguftcd, (he would never fuller him to come near her afterwards. We likewife went on fhore to them, after returning from our excurfion, and the man dcfiring us to fit down by him, frequently pointed at our boats that plyed between the fhip and the fhore, and it appeared that he was defirous of pofTelTing one of them. They ffaid all night about a hundred yards from our watering place, lighted a fire,and dreffed fome fifh there, thus evidently placing great confidence in us. In the evening a party of officers fet out in a fmall boat, to the north fide of the bay, where they intended to pafs the night, and continue mooting all the next day.
Captain Cook, accompanied by my father, went in his Monday i». boat the next morning, to furvey the rocks and ifles in the mouth of the bay. They entered a fine fnug cove, on the S. E. fide of the iiland, under which we had found our firfl anchorage, and which was therefore named Anchor Ifland. Here they fat down by the fide of a plcafant brook, and made a flight repaft on fome boiled craw-fifh, which they had brought with them.   From thence they proceeded to
the
the outermofl iflands, where they difcovered a number of aVui feals on the rocks, fhot fourteen of them with ball, which they carried away with them, and might have killed many more* had the furf permitted them to land upon all the rocks in fafety.   The feals in Dufky Bay are all of the fpecies called fea-bears *, which profeflbr Steller firfl defcribed: on Bering's Ifland, near Kamtchatka, and which are confe-quently common to both hemifpheres.    They are very numerous on the fouthern extremities of the continents of America  and  Africa, likewife at New Zeeland,  and on Diemcn's Land.   The only difference we could perceive between thefe at Dufky Bay, and thofe defcribed at Kamtchatka, confided in the fize, in refpect of which ours were inferior.   They found it difficult to kill them, and many, though grievoufly wounded, efcaped into the fea, and tinged the rocks and the water with their blood.    Their meat, which is almofl black, and their heart and liver were eatable, the former, by the help of a good appetite, and a little imagination, might be eaten for beef, and the laft were perfectly fimilar to a calf's pluck.   We were, however, obliged to cut away every bit of fat, before we dreffed the meat, which other wife had an infupportable tafle of train-oil.    Captain Cook availed himfelf of this opportunity of laying in a provifion of lamp-oil, which was boiled!
* Fhoca urfina Linn.   Urfine Seal,  Pennant. Syn. Quad. 271.
out
1773.     out 0f the feals fat : he alfo ordered the fkins to be made
April.
ufe of for repairing our rigging. Tuefday i3.       The fuccefs of the preceding day encouraged him to make another trip to the Seal Iflands, on which my father accompanied him again ; but the fea ran fo very high, that it was by no means practicable to come near, and much lefs to land on them.   With a great deal of difficulty they weathered the S. W. point of Anchor Ifland, where the fea tumbled in with great impetuofity, and was fo much agitated, as to affect the mariners with ficknefs.   They then rowed along the north fhore of that ifland, where the captain kmded to take the bearings of different points.    It happened very fortunately, that they had taken this route ; for they now difcovered the fmall boat adrift, which fet off from the floop on the 11 th in the evening, and laid hold of it the moment before it was going to be dallied againft the rocks.   The boat was immediately fecured in a fmall creek, and after refrefhing the people with fome provifions which they found in it, captain Cook proceeded to the place where he fuppofed the party of officers to be, from whom it was drifted away. * Between feven and eight in the evening they reached the cove, and found them on a fmall ifland, to which they could not then approach, becaufe the tide had left ir.    They landed therefore on an adjacent point, and after many fruitlefs attempts, at length fuccccd-ed in making a fire.   Here they broiled fome filli, and after
fupper
A  VOYAGE  ROUND   THE  WO$LD. 153
flipper lay down j the flony beach was their bed, and their ^l]'Lt covering the canopy of heaven.
At three o'clock in the morning the tide permitted them to take the fportfmen from their barren iiland ; after which they immediately failed with a fair wind, accompanied with fhowers of rain, to the cove where they had fecured the other boat. Here they found an immenfe number of petrels of the bluifh fpecies, common over the whole fouthern ocean *, fome being on the wing, and others in the woods, in holes Under ground formed between the roots of trees and in the crevices of rocks, in places not eafily acceffible, where they probably had their ncfts and young. In day time, not one of them was to be feen there, the old ones then being probably out at fea in quell of food. They now faw them going out for that purpofe, and two days ago they had been obferved at the Seal Iflands, returning in the evening in order to feed their young with the food which they had collected. They now heard a great variety of confufed founds coming from the fides of the hill, fome very acute, others like the croaking of frogs, which were made by thefe petrels. At other times we have found innumerable holes on the top of one of the Seal Iflands, and heard the young petrels making a noifc in them ; but as the holes communicated with each other it was impofTible to come at one of them.    We had
* Sec page 91.
Vol. I. x already
JSSt%é a^rea^y frequently obferved the old petrels flying about us in the evening, when we returned late from our excursions, but till now they had always been taken for bats* They have a broad bill," and a blackifh ftripe acrofs their bluifh wings and body, and are not fo large as the common fhear-water or Mank's petrel of our feas. The in-flincl is very wonderful which actuates thefe birds to burrow holes under* ground for their young, to roam all over the ocean in quefl of food for their fupport, and to find their way to the fhore when they are feveral hundred leagues diflant from it.
Having replaced the fportfmen in their boat, they all proceeded to the fhip, which they reached at feven in the morning, not a little fatigued from the night's expedition. The natives, probably forefceing the bad weather, which continued all this day, had left the place they occupied near the fhip on the preceding night, and had retired to their habitations on Indian Ifland. yhurfiiay 15. The weather cleared up a little on the 15 th in the morning. Captain Cook therefore fet out to continue his furvey of the N. W. part of the bay, and we accompanied a party of officers to the cove in that part where wc intended to take up our quarters for'the next night. In our way we rowed along-fide of our fifhing-boat, which conflantly went out in the morning to provide all our crew with their dinner, and took in a fail which we flood
in
in need of.   We were furprifed to fee the young black dog in the boat with them, which ran away from us on the 2d inftant ; and were told, that, taking their ftation near the fhore, at day-break they had heard a very piteous howling on the nest point, and had found the dog, which came into the boat very readily as foon as they put in more.   Though this animal had been in the woods during a fortnight, yet it was by no means famifhed, but On the contrary looked well fed and very fleek.   A large fpecies of rails, which we called water-hens, and which are very numerous in this part of New Zeeland, with perhaps fome fliell-fifh on the rocks, or fome dead fifh, thrown up by the fea, had in all probability afforded it fufficient fupport.   We may from hence conclude, that as there is abundance- of food for carnivorous animals in New Zeeland, they would probably be very numerous if they exifled there at all, and efpecially if they were endowed with any degree of fagacity, like the fox, or cat tribes.   In that cafe they could not have efcaped the notice of our numerous parties, nor of the natives, and the latter would certainly have preferved their furrs, as a valuable article of drefs in their moifl and raw climate, for want of which they now wear the fkins of dogs and of birds.     The queftion,   whether New Zeeland contained any wild quadrupeds, had engaged our attention from our firfl arrival there.   One of our people, ftrongly per-
X 2 fuaded
fuadcd that fo great a country could not fail of poffelTing new and unknown animals, had already twice reported that he had feen a brown animal, fomething lefs than a jackal or little fox, about the dawn of morning, fitting on a flump of a tree near our tents, and running off at his approach. But as this circumflance has never been confirmed by any fubfequent teflimony, nothing is more probable than that the want of day-light had deceived him, and that he had either ©bferved one of the numerous wood-hens, which are brown, and creep through the bufhes very frequently j or that one of our cats, on the watch for little birds, had been miflaken for a new qua* druped.
Having taken the fail on board, we continued our courfe, and began our refearches in the cove, where we killed many ducks of four different fpecies. One of them was remarkably beautiful, and of the fize of the eider duck. Its plumage was of a blackifh brown, elegantly fprinkled with white ; all the coverts of the wing were white, the rump and vent ferruginous, the quill and tail-feathers black, and the fecondaries green. Another fpecies was nearly of the fize of our mallard, but all of a light-brown, every feather being edged with a yellowiffi white, of which there was a line on the cheek and eye-brows ; the eyes of this fort had hides of a bright yellow, and on the wings there was a fpot of fine bluifh green incloied in
black
black lines. The third fort was a bluifli grey whiffling A*™* duck, about the fize of a wigeonj its bill had a remarkable membranaceous fubftance at the extremity on both fides, probably becaufe the bird is intended to live by fucking the worms, &c. in the mud, when the tide retires from the beaches. Its bread was fprinklcd with ferruginous feathers, and on the wings it had a large white fpot. The fourth and mod common fort is a fmall brown duck, which is nearly the fame as the Englifh gad-wall. A little before dark, the captain, having examined, all the harbours which lay in his way, fhot a number of wild fowl, and caught fifh fufficient for all our party, arrived at our rendezvous, where we had erected a tent, by means of the fails and oars. Our keen appetites difpenfed-with the arts of cookery, and our filli broiled à l'Indìenney over a flrong fire, on a bit of a (lick, tailed as delicioufly as we could delire. With this fupper, and a draught of fprucc-beer, of which we had carried a fmall keg with us,, we compofed ourfelves to lleep, and contrived to pafs the night, though not quite fo comfortably as in our beds. The next morning a boat went up to the head of the cove to flart the game, which was done fo effectually that almoft all the wild-ducks cfcaped, the rain having wetted all our fire-arms. The captain now landed in the cove,, and walked acrofs a narrow ifthmus, which feparates it from another cove on the north fide of the Five-finger
Land.
April. Land- Here lie found a prodigious number of the water-hens before mentioned, and brought away ten couple of them, which recompenfed him for the trouble of croffing the ifthmus, through intricate woods, where the water was frequently up to the waift. At nine o'clock we were all affcmbled again, and fet out on our return to the fhio ; but as we continued examining every creek and harbour which we found on our way, and encreafing our collection of wild-fowl, we did not return till feven o'clock in the evening. Wc brought feven dozen of various forts of birds with us, among which were near thirty ducks, and immediately diftributed them to the feveral melTes of officers, petty-officers, and feamen, as far as they would go. Wc may take this opportunity to obfervc, that there is no part of New Zeeland fo well flocked with birds of all kinds as Dufky Bay. We found feveral forts of wild-ducks, fhags, corvorants, oyfter-catchers or fea-pies, water or wood-hens, albatroffes, gannets, gulls, pinguins, and others of the aquatic kind. The land-birds were hawks, parrots, pigeons, and many leffer ones of new and unknown fpecies. The parrots were of two forts ; one fmall and green, and the other very large, greyihVgreen, with a reddifh bread. As the birds of that genus are commonly confined to the warmer climates, we were much furprifed to find them in the latitude of 46°, expofed to the raw rainy weather,
which
which the height of the mountains almofl condantly pro- jw*^ duces in Dufky Bay.
The next day was fo rainy, that none of us could ven- Sunday it ture to flir out of the (loop ; but the day after proving a very fine one, my father went up the hill, along the courfe of the brook, from which we filled our cafks. About half a mile upwards, through ferns, rotten trees, and thick forefls, he came to a fine lake of frefh water nearly half a mile in diameter. Its water was limpid and well tailed, but had acquired a brownifh hue, from the leaves of trees which dropped into it on all fides ; he obferved no other inhabitant in it than a fmall fpecies of fifh (efox), without fcalcs, refembling a little trout ; its colour was brown, and mottled with yellowifh fpots in the fhape of fome ancient Afiatic characters. The whole lake was fur-rounded by a thick foreft, confiding of the larged trees, and the mountains rofe all round it in a variety of forms. The environs were deferted and filent, not the lead note of the common birds was heard, for it was rather cold at this elevation ; and not a fingle plant had bloflbms. The whole fcene was perfectly fitted to infpire a kind of plcafing melancholy, and to encourage hermit-meditation. The fine...weather induced our friends the natives to pay us another vifit ; they took up their quarters on the fame fpot, where they haa been this day fevennight, and when they were again invited to come on board, they promifed
to
to come the next morning. In the mean while they had a quarrel among themfelves, the man beat the two women who were fuppofed to be his wives ; the young girl in return (truck him, and then began to weep. What the caufe of this difagrecment was, wc cannot determine ; but if the young woman was really the man's daughter, which we could never clearly underftand, it fhould feem that the filial duties are flrangely confounded among them ; or which is more probable, that this fecSudéd family acted in every refpeet, not according to the cuftoms and regulations of a civil fociety, but from the impuli'es of nature, which (peak aloud againft every degree of oppreffion.
In the morning, the man refolved to come on board with the young woman, but fent the reft of his family a-fifliing in the canoe. He walked with her round the cove, to the place where we had made a ft age or temporary bridge from the velici to the fhore. Before they entered upon this, they were conducted to a place on the hill, where we kept our fheep and goats, which they feemed to be much furprifed with, and defired to poflèfs ; but as we forefaw that they muft die for want of proper food if we left them here, we could not comply with this rcqueft. Captain Cook, and my father met them at the ftagc, and this man after faluting them with his nofe againft theirs, gave each of them a new cloak or piece of cloth made of the flax-pi ant, curioufly interwoven with
parrot's
parrot's feathers, and prefented the captain with a piece of green nephritic (tone, ov jadde*, which was formed into the blade of a hatchet. Before he flepped on the bridge, he turned afide, put a piece of a bird's fkin with white feathers through the hole in one of his ears, and broke off a fmall green branch from a neighbouring bulli.   With this he walked on, -and flopping when he could jufl reach the fhip's fides with his hand, flruck them and the main-fhrouds feveral times with his branch.    He then began to repeat a kind of fpeech or prayer, which feemed to have regular cadences, and to be metrically arranged as a poem ; his  eyes were fixed upon  the place he had touched, his voice was raifed, and his whole behaviour grave and folemn.   The young woman, though at other times  laughing and dancing, now  kept clofe   to the man and was ferious all the while he  fpoke, which laded about two or three minutes ; at the clofe of his fpeech he llruck the fliip's fide again, threw the branch into the main chains, and came aboard.   This manner of delivering folemn orations, and making peace, is pra&ifed by all the nations which have been feen in the South Sea before our voyage, as appears from the teflimonics of various voyagers.   Both the man and woman had a fpcar in their hands when they were conducted on the quarterdeck j there they admired every thing they faw : a few geefe
* See Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 286.
Vol. I. Y in
in our coops particularly attracted their attention ; a hand-fome cat, was likewife much courted, but they always ftroked it the wrong way, fo as to make the hair Hand upright, though we ihowed them to do it in a contrary direction ; probably they admired the richnefs of the furr. The man looked upon every new object with furprize, but as his attention could not be fixed to any one object fqr more than a fingle moment, many of our works of art muft have appeared to him as incomprehenfible, as thofe of nature. However, the number and ftrength of our decks and of other parts of our velTel engroffed his admiration more than any thing elfe. The girl, feeing Mr. Hodges, whofe pencil fhe had much admired, made him a prefent of a piece of cloth, of the fame kind as thofe which the man had given to captain Cook and my father. This cufiom of making prefents is not fo ufual in other parts of New Zee-land, as in the tropical iflands : but it appears on the whole, that this family were not always guided by national cuf-toms, but took fuch meafures as prudence and integrity fuggefled in their fituation, which left them at the mercy of a greater force. We defired them to come into the cabin, and after a long debate among themfelves, they accepted the invitation, and defcended by the ladder. Here they admired every thing, and were particularly pleafcd to learn the ufe of chairs, and that they might be removed from place to place.   They were prefented. with hatchets
by.
by the captain and my father, and received a great number of trinkets of lefs value. Thefe laft the man laid down in a heap, and would have gone away without them, had we not reminded him of them ; whereas he never let a hatchet or fpike-nail go out of his hand, after he had once taken hold of it. They faw us fit down to our break-faft, and were feated near us ; but all our intreaties could not prevail on them to touch our victuals. They likewife exprefsly inquired where we went to flecp, and the captain ihowed them his cot, which was fufpended, at which they were mightily pleafed. From the cabin they proceeded to the gun-room, on the deck below ; and having received feveral prefents there, they returned to the captain again. The man now pulled out a little leather bag, probably of feals fkin, and having, with a good deal of ceremony, put in his fingers, which he pulled out covered with oil, offered to anoint captain Cook's hair ; this honour was however declined, becaufe the unguent, though perhaps held as a delicious perfume, and as the mod precious thing the man could beftow, yet feemed to our noftrils not a little offen-fivc ; and the very fqualid appearances of the bag in which it was contained, contributed to make it ftill more difguft-ful. Mr. Hodges did not efcapc fo well ; for the girl, having a tuft of feathers, dipt in oil, on a firing round her neck, infifted upon drefhng him out with it, and he was forced to wear the odoriferous prefent, in pure civility.
Y 2 We
ÀvUi    We ^ tliem t0 amu^e themfelves in the other parts of the fhip, rmd fet out in two boats, with the captain and feveral officers, to examine a long inlet which ran to the eaftward, in fight of our cove.   In proportion as we receded from the fea, we found the mountains much higher, more fteep, and barren : the trees gradually diminifhed in height and circumference, and dwindled to fhrubs, contrary to what is obferved in other parts of the world, where the inland countries have finer forefls and better timber than the fea fhores.   The interior ranges of mountains called the Southern Alps, appeared very diftinctly, of a great height, and covered with fnow on their fummits.   We paffed by a number of fhady iflands, which contained little coves and rivulets ; and on one of the projecting points, oppofite the laft ifland, we faw a fine cafcade falling into the water, over a deep rock, clothed with thick bullies and trees. The water was perfectly calm, polifhed, and tranfparent ; the landfcape was diftinctly reflected in it, and the various romantic fhapes of the fteep mountains, contrafted in different maffes of light and fhade, had an admirable effect. About noon we put into a fmall cove, where we caught fome fiffi, and mot a few birds.   From thence we rowed again till dufk, when wc entered a fine cove, at the extremity of this long arm, and were obliged to take up our quarters on the'firfl beach wc could land upon, after being prevented by fhoals from proceeding to the head of the cove. There
we
we thought we perceived fomething fimilar to a fmoke, but finding nothing to confirm this opinion, and efpecially feeing no fire at night, we readily acquiefced in the idea of having been deceived by fome mifty vapour, or other object., which we might have indiftinctly feen.   We prepared with great alacrity to pafs the night here, and no one was excepted from his talk on thefe occafions.   As it may be curious to know the nature of our marooning parties, as our feamen called them, I fhall here give fome account of our proceedings this night.    Having found a beach to land on, with a brook, and a wood clofe to it, our firfl care was to bring on fhore the oars, fails, cloaks, guns, hatchets, Sec. not forgetting a little keg of fpruce-beer, and perhaps a bottle of flrong liquor.   The boats were next fecured at a grappling, and with a rope made fafl to a tree on fhore, Some of us were then bulled in collecting dry pieces of Wood for fuel, which in fuch a wet country as New Zee-land, was fometimes very difficult ; fome erected a tent or wigwam, made of the oars and fails together with flrong branches of trees, in a convenient dry fpot, flickered as much as poffible, in cafe of wind and rain.   Others lighted the fire in. front of the tent, by burning fome oakum, in which they had previoufly rubbed a quantity of gunpowder.   The preparations for fupper were very fhort : fome of the failors cleaned our fifties, fkinned the waterfowl, fplit, and laftly broiled them j when they were dreffed,
one
one of the boat's gang-boards, wafhed clean, anfwered the feveral purpofes of a table, of dillies, and plates ; and our fingers and teeth did yeoman's fervice, inflead of knives and forks. A keen appetite, procured by flrong exercife, and excited by the fharp air of the country, foon taught us to overcome the ideas of indelicacy, which civilized nations connect with this way of living ; and we never fo flrongly felt how little is wanting to fatisfy the cravings of the flo-mach, and to fupport the exiftence of human beings, as on thefe occafions. After fupper we liflened a while to the original comic vein of our boat's crew, who huddled round the fire, made their meal, and recited a number of droll (lories, intermixed with hearty curfes, oaths, and indecent cxprcflions, but feldom without real humour. Then (Irewing our tent with heaps of fern leaves, and wrapping ourfelves in our boat-cloaks, with our guns and mooting-bags for our pillows, we compofed ourfelves to deep.
At day-break Captain Cook and my father, with two men, went in a fmall boat to take a view of the head of the cove, where they faw fome flat land. They went on fhore upon it at one corner, and ordered the boat to meet them at the oppofue point. They had not walked a great way before they faw fome wild-ducks, and, by creeping through the bufhes, came near enough to fire and kill one of them. The moment they had fired they heard a hideous fhout of feveral loud and piercing voices round about
them
them from different quarters. They fhouted in their turn, and taking up the duck retired towards the boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives continued their clamours, but did not follow them ; for indeed a deep branch of a river was between them, and their numbers were too inconfiderable to attempt hoftilities ; but thefe circumftances we only learnt in the fequel. We had in the mean while taken a ramble into the woods in fearch of plants ; but hearing the fhout of the natives, we embarked immediately in the remaining boat and joined the other, which by this time had taken Captain Cook and my father on board. We therefore proceeded up into a river, which was deep enough for the boats, and amufed ourfelves with mooting ducks, which were here in great plenty. We now faw a man, woman, and child on the left fhore, and the woman waved to us with a white bird's lkin, probably in ftgn of peace and friendfhip. On this occafion I could not help admiring, that almoft all nations on our globe have tacitly agreed upon the white colour, or upon green branches, as tokens of a peaceable difpofition, and that with thefe in their hands they confidently rely on a ftranger's placability. Perhaps this general agreement had its origin anterior to the univerfal difperfion of, the human fpecies ; this will feern. the more probable when it' is confidercd, that neither the white colour, nor the green boughs of a tree, have any intrinfic character, to which
the
the idea of amity is naturally and ncceiTarily referred. Our boat being neareft to thefe natives, Captain Cook de-fired the officer in it to land, and accept their preferred friendfhip, whilft he meant to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up in the river as poffible, Whether the officer did not undcrftand Captain Cook's meaning, or whether he was too deeply engaged with duck-mooting, wc did not land ; and the poor people, to all appearance apprchenfive of the word confequences, from a fet of men ■who rejected their propofals of peace, fled into the woods with the utmod precipitation.    The Captain in the mean while rowed about half a mile higher, where his boat was flopped by the violence of the dream, and by feveral huge flones which lay acrofs the bed of the river, and redoubled the rapidity of the water.    Here, however, he found a new fpecies of ducks, the fifth we had obferved in Dufky Bay.   Its fize was fomething lefs than that of a teal, the colour of a fhining greenilh black above, and a dark footy grey below ; it had a purple cad on the head, a lead-coloured bill and feet, a golden eye, and a white bar in the leffer quill feathers.   On Captain Cook s return to us, we perceived two men in the woods along the bank oppofite to that where we had feen the friendly family. The captain endeavoured to form an acquaintance with them, but when the boat came clofe along fhore, they always retired into the woods, which were fo thick, that they
not
not only covered them from our fight, but alfo made it unadvifeable to follow them. The ebbing tide obliged us to retire out of this river to the place where we had fpent the night ; and, after breakfafting there, we embarked in order to fet out on our return to the Refolution. However, when we had fcarce.put off, we perceived the two natives, who had walked acrofs the woods to an open fpot, from whence they halloo'd to us. The captain immediately ordered both the boats to row up to them, and coming into lhallow water, he got out unarmed, attended by two men, and waded to the fhore, with a fheet of white paper in his hand. The two natives flood about one hundred yards from the water's fide, each of them with a long fpear in his hand. When the captain advanced with his two men they retired ; he then proceeded alone, but could not pre-* vail on them to lay afide their fpears. At laft one of them fluck his fpear in the ground, and taking a bunch of grafs in his hand met the captain, and giving him one end of the grafs to hold while he kept the other, he pronounced a folemn fpeech in a loud tone of voice, during a minute or two, in which he made feveral paufes, perhaps waiting for a reply. As foon as this ceremony was over, they faluted each other, and the New Icelander took a new garment from his own moulders and prefented it to the captain, for which he received a hatchet in return. Peace and friendthip. being thus firmly eflablifhcd, the Vol. I. Z other
i77*;,    other man likewife came up to falute the captain, and was prcfented with a hatchet ; and feveral of us came alfiore to them, at which they were not the leafl alarmed, but received every new comer with great cordiality.   We now perceived feveral other natives, probably women, on the ikirts of the wood, and the two men earneftly intreated us to go up to their habitations, intimating by figns, that they would give us fomething to eat there > but the tide and other circumflances did not permit us to accept their invitation.   When we had taken leave of them, the two men followed us to our boats, where they defired us to remove the mufkets which lay acrofs the flern, and having complied with their rcqueft, they came along-fide, and af-fiftcd us to launch the boats, which were aground on account of the ebb.   We found however that it was necef-fary to have an eye upon them, becaufe they feemed ta covet the poifelfion of every thing they faw or could lay hands on, except the muikets, which  they  would not touch, being taught to refpeet them as inftruments of death, on account of the havock they had feen us make among the wild-fowl.   Wc obferved no canoes among them, and their only means of tranfporting themfelves acrofs the river, was on a few logs of wood connected together into a kind of raft, which was perfectly fufheient for that purpofe.   Firn and wild-fowl were in fuch plenty here, that they can have little occafion to roam to any diftance
tance in queft of them, as their numbers did not fcem to exceed three families 5 and the whole bay being almoft entirely deftitute of inhabitants, one fingle family more excepted,  they need not be apprehenfive of difturbancc from bad neighbours.   The features of thefe men were rather wild, but not ill-favoured j  their complexion rc-femblcd that of the family on Indian Ifland, of a mahogany brown j their hair buftiy, and their beards frizled and black.    They were of a middling ftature and flout, but their legs and thighs very flender, and their knees too much fwclled in proportion.   Their drcfs and general behaviour feemed to be the fame as that of the other family before mentioned.   The courage of this people has fomc-thing fingular in it, for it fhould feem, that in fpight of their inferiority of force, they cannot brook the thought of hiding themfelves, at leaft not till they have made an attempt to eftablifh an intercourfe, or prove the principles of the ftrangers who approach them.   It would have been impofiible for us, among the numerous iflands and harbours, and in the mazy forefts upon them, to have found out the family which we faw on the Indian Ifland, if they had not difcovered themfelves, and thus made the firfl advances.   We might alfo have departed from the cove without knowing that it was inhabited, if the natives had not fhouted at the difcharge of our mufkets.    In both cafes a certain opennefs and honefty, appear ftrongly to mark
2 2 their
their character ; for if it had the lead admixture of treachery, they would have tried to fall upon us unawares, a3 they could not have failed of meeting with frequent opportunities of cutting off our numerous fmall parties, when difperfed in different parts of the woods.
It was noon when we left thefe two men, and proceeded down on the north fide of the long arm, of which captain Cook took the bearings in his way. The night overtook us before he had completed this furvey ; fo that we were forced to leave another arm unexplored, and to haflen to the veffel, which we reached about eight o'clock at night. We were told that the native with his companion, the young woman, had ftaid on board till noon, after our departure ; and having been informed, that we had left fome-prcfents in his double canoe in Cafcade Cove, he employed' fòme of his people to bring them away from thence, after which the whole family remained in the neighbourhood of the fhip till this morning. They then took their de-' parture, and we never faw them again, which was the more extraordinary, as they never went away empty handed from us, but had at different times received nine or ten hatchets, and four times that number of large fpike nails, befides other articles. As far as thefe things may be counted riches among them, this man was the wealthier! in all New Zeeland, being poffeffed of more hatchets, than there were in the whole country befides, before the fecond
arrival
arrival of Britifli veffels. The thin population in this part of the ifland makes it probable, that the few families in it lead a nomadic or wandering life, and remove according as the feafon, 'the conveniency of fifliing, and other circum-fiances render it neceflary. We were therefore of opinion, that our friendly family had only removed upon this principle ; but we were likewife told that before they went away, the man had made figns of going to kill men, and employing the hatchet as an offenflve weapon. If this circumflance was rightly underflood, we cannot fufficiently wonder that a family fo fecluded from all the reft of the world, in a fpacious bay, where they have a fuperfluity of food, and of all the neceffaries of life, the fewnefs of their wants conftdered, fhould ftill have a thought of warring with their fellow-creatures, when they might live peaceably and happily in their retirement. The pleaf-ing hope of facilitating the oeconomical operations of thefe people, and of encouraging fome degree of agriculture among them, by prefenting them with ufeful tools, was defeated by this determination. The fiate of barbarifm, in which the New Zcelandcrs. may juftly be faid to live, and which generally hearkens to no other voice than that of the jirongefti might make them more liable than any other nation to refolve upon the deftruciion of their fellow-citizens, as foon as an opportunity offered and. their innate and favage valour may probably affift'them
to
to put fuch projects in execution. On this occafion, I cannot omit mentioning a remarkable inftance of courage -which characterifed the old man who had now left us ; our officers having fired feveral mufquets in his prefence, he became defirous of difcharging one himfelf, which they eafily granted 5 the young woman, fuppofed to be his daughter, fell proflrate on the ground before him, and untreated him, with the ltrongeft marks of fear, to defifl from his undertaking ; but he was not to be diverted from his purpofe, and fired the mufquet with the greatefl refolution, repeating it afterwards three or four times. This warlike difpolition, together with the irafcible temper of the whole nation, that cannot brook the leafl injury, is probably the caufe which has induced this fingle family, and the few in the long inlet we had vifited, to feparate from the reft of their fellow-creatures. All the difputes of favage people commonly terminate in the deflruction of one of their parties, unlcfs they evade it by a well-timed flight : this may have been the cafe of the inhabitants of Dufky Bay, and admitting it, their defign of going to fight, is no more than a project of being revenged on their foes and oppreffors.
On the 23d, early in the morning, feveral officers, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, went to CafcadeCovc, in order to afcend one of the highefl mountains in the bay, which was fituated on one fide of it.   About two o'clock they
reached
reached the fummit, which they made known to us by lighting a great fire there. We mould have accompanied them on this excurfion, but a violent flux attended with gripes confined us on board. It was owing to the care-lelfnefs of our cook, who had fullered our copper kitchen-furniture to become full of verdigrife. In the evening however, we#went to meet our travellers in Cafcade Cove, and after fearching the woods fome time for plants and birds, we brought them on board with us. At night the fire had fpread in a bright circular garland all round the fummit of the mountain, and made a very elegant illumination in honour of St. George's day. Our party related that they had a profpeet of the whole bay, and of the fea beyond the mountains to the fouth, S. W. arid W. N. W. for more than twenty leagues all round them, the weather being remarkably fine and clear. The inland mountains were very barren, and confiftcd of huge broken and craggy maffes, all covered with fnow on their fummits ; the top of that on which they flood, afforded feveral low fhrubs and various alpine plants, which we had feen no where elfc. A little lower down they faw a taller fhtub-bery; below this a fpace covered with dry or dead .trees, and next to thofe the living woods began, which increafed in fize as they defcended. The afcent had been fatiguing enough, on account of the intricacy of briars and climbers, but the defcent alfo was dangerous, becaufe of many
precipices
precipices which they met on their way, and along mod of which they contrived to Hide down by the help of trees and bullies. At a confiderable height they met with three or four trees, which they took for palms, and of which they cut down one, and ufed its middlemoil ilioot for their reitefhmcnt. Thefe trees, however, were not the true cabbage palms, nor did they belong at all to the clafs of
m
palms, which are generally confined to more temperate climates. They were properly fpeaking, a new fpecies of dragon-trees, with broad leaves, (dracena aujìralis) of which the central (hoot when quite tender, tafles fomething like an almond's kernel, with a little of the flavour of cabbage. We afterwards obferved more of them in other parts of this bay.
The next morning I accompanied captain Cook to the cove on the N. W. part of the bay, which from the tranfaction of this day, received the name of Goofe Cove. We had five tame geefe left, of thofe which we had taken on board at the Cape of Good Hope, and thefe we intended to leave in New Zeeland to breed, and run wild. This cove was looked upon as the mod convenient place for that purpofe, fince there were no inhabitants to didurb them, and becaufe it afforded an abundance of proper food. We fet them on fhore, and they immediately ran to feed in the mud, at the head of the cove where we left them, pronouncing over them the crefcite & muìùpìiciamìni, for the
benefit
benefit of future generations of navigators and New Zee- A,^< landers. There can be little doubt indeed, but that they will fucceed in this fecluded fpot, and in time fpread over the whole country, anfwerable to our original intention. The reil of this day was fpent in fhooting, and among the different birds killed was a white heron (ardea alba), common to Europe.
The fair weather, which had laftcd eight days fucccffive-ly, was entirely at an end on the 25 th, when the rain fet Sunday 15. in again towards evening, and continued till the next day at noon. We had reafon to believe fuch a continuance of Monday *s. dry weather very uncommon in Dufky Bay, and particularly at this feafon, becaufe we never experienced above two fair days one after another, either before or after this week. We had, however, improved this opportunity to complete our wood and water, and put the floop in condition to go out to fea, and having taken on board all our men, we call off our bridge, and removed out of the creek, into the middle of our cove, ready to fail with the firfl fair wind. The fuperiority of a fiate of civilization over that of bar-barifm could not be more clearly flated, than by the alterations and improvements we had made in this place. In the courfe of a few days, a fmall part of us had cleared away the woods from a furface of more than an acre, which fifty New Zeclandcrs, with their tools of Hone, could Vol. I. A a not
not have performed in three months. This fpot, where immenfe numbers of plants left to themfelves lived and decayed by turns, in one confufed inanimated heap; this fpot, we had converted into an active fcene, where a hundred and twenty men pnrfued various branches of employment with unremitted ardour :
<$>uales apes tvjiate nova per flore a rura
Ex erect fob fole labor. Virgil,
Such was their toil, and fuch their bufy pains..
As exercife the bees in flowery plains,
When winter paft and fummer fcarce begun,
Invites them forth to labour in the fun. Dryden,
We felled tall timber-trees, which, but for ourfelves, had crumbled to dull: with age ; our fawyers cut them into planks, or we fplit them into billets for fuel. By the fide of a murmuring rivulet, whofe paffage into the fea we facilitated, a long range of cafks, which had been prepared by our coopers for that purpofe, flood ready to be filled with water. Here afcended the fleamJ of a large cauldron, in which we brewed, from neglected indigenous plants, a falutary and palatable potion, for the ufe of our labourers. In the offing, fome of our crew appeared providing a meal of delicious fifh for the refrefhment of their fellows. Our caulkers and riggers were flationcd on the fides and mafls of the ve.ffel, and their occupations gave
life
life to the fcene, and ilruck the ear with various noifes, Ay whilfl the anvil on the hill rcfounded with the ftrokes of the weighty hammer. Already the polite arts began to flourilh in this new fcttlement ; the various tribes of animals and vegetables, which dwelt in the unfrequented woods, were imitated by an artifl in his noviciate ; and the romantic profpects of this fliaggy country, lived on the canvas in the glowing tints of nature, who was amazed to fee herfclf fo clofely copied. Nor had fcience difdained to vifit us in this folitary fpot : an obfervatory arofe in the centre of our works, filled with the moll accurate inflruments, where the attentive eye of the ailronomer contemplated the motions of the celeilial bodies.   The plants which clothed the ground, and the wonders of the animal creation, both in the forefls and the fcas, likewife attracted the notice of philofophers, whofe time was devoted to mark their differences and ufes.    In a word, all around us we perceived the rife of arts, and the dawn of fcience, in a country which had hitherto lain plunged in one long night of ignorance and barbarifm ! But this pleading picture of improvement was not to laft, and like a meteor, vaniilied as fuddenly as it was formed.   We re-imbarked all our inflruments and utenfils, and left no other vefliges of our refidence, than a piece of ground, from whence wc had cleared the wood.   We fowed indeed a quantity of European garden feeds of the beil kinds ; but it is obvious that the flioots of the furrounding weeds will fliortly flifle
A a 2 every
ArtÌL eveiT falutary and ufeful plant, and that in a few years our abode no longer difcernible, muft return to its original chaotic Hate.
A new paflage out to fea, to the northward, was difcovered on the 27 th ; and it being more convenient for our purpofe, than that by which we entered, we weighed on
Thurfday »». the 29th in the afternoon, in order to fland up the bay towards it. However, the wind falling calm, we were obliged to come to again in 43 fathom, under the north fide of an ifland which we named Long Ifland, about two leagues from
Friday 30. DUI cove. At nine the next morning we proceeded with a light breeze at weft, which with all our boats towing a-hcad, was fcarce fufheient to flcm the current ; for after flruggling till fix in the evening, we had gained no more than five miles, and anchored under the fame ifland, only a hundred yards from the fhore. May. At daylight the next morning we attempted to work to
fiat unlay i.
windward, having a gentle air down the bay, but the breeze dying away, we loft ground, and came with the flern fo clofe to the fhore, that our enfign-ftafT was entangled in the branches of trees, on a perpendicular rock, clofe to which we could find no bottom. We were towed off without receiving any damage, and dropt an anchor below the place we fet out from, in a little cove on the north fide of Long Ifland. Here we found two huts, and two fireplaces, which feemed to prove that the place had lately
been
been inhabited. During our flay here, we difcovered fcve- ^7A7^ ral new birds and filh ; and indeed caught fome fifh which are common to Europe, viz. the horfe-mackarel, the greater dog-fifh, and the fmooth hound*. The captain was taken ill of a fever and violent pain in the groin, which terminated in a rheumatic fwelling of the right foot, contracted probably by wading too frequently in the water, and fitting too long in the boat after it, without changing his cloaths.
We were detained in this cove by calms, attended with Tuefday 4. continual rains, till the 4th in the afternoon, when, affiled by a light breeze at S. W. we entered the reach or paffage leading out to fea. The breeze coming a-hcad jufl at that time obliged us to anchor again under the eafl point of the entrance, before a fandy beach. Thefe little delays gave us opportunities of examining the fhores, fror« whence we never failed to bring on board new sequi-fitions to the vegetable and animal fyflem. During night we had heavy fqualls of wind, attended with rain, hail,
Wednefday 5■
and fnow, and fome loud thunder claps. Day-light exhibited to our view all the tops of the hiHs round us covered with fnow. At two o'clock in the afternoon a light breeze fprung up at S. S. W. which carried us down the paffage, though not without the help of our boats, to the laft point near the opening into the fea, where we anchor-
* Scomber trachurus, fqualus canis, & fq. muftelus, Linn.
ed
mIÌ' at eight in the evening.   The iliorcs on both fides of the
paflagc were fleeper than any we had feen before, and formed various wild landfcapes, ornamented with numerous little cafcades, and many dragon-trees (dracena.) Thurfday 6. The captain being confined to the cabin by his rheuma-tifm, fent an officer, accompanied by my father and myfelf, to explore the fouthernmofl arm, which ran up eafl-ward from our new pafTage into the interior country. During our abfence he ordered the Refolution to be well cleaned and aired with fires between decks, a precaution which ought never to be neglected in a moifl and raw climate.
Wc rowed up this new inler, were delighted with many cafcades on both fides of it, and found a number of good anchoring places, with plenty of fifh and wild-fowl, however, the woods confiflcd chiefly of fhrubberies, and bega» to look very bare, tlx leaves being moilly fhed, and what rctqained looking faded of a pale yellow colour. Thcfc flroncr marks of approaching winter feemed to be peculiar to this part of the bay, and it is probable that the adjacent high mountains, all which were now crowned with fnow, caufed their premature appearance. Wc put into a little cove about two o'clock to broil a few fifhes for our dinner, and then went on till it was dark, taking up our night's quarters on a little beach, almofl at the head of the inlet.   Here we made a fire, but flcpt very
little
little on account of the cold of the night and the hardnefa of our pillows. The next morning we faw a cove, with a little flat land, to the north of us, which formed the end of this fpacious inlet or arm, about eight miles from its entrance. Here we amufcd ourfelves with mooting for fome time, and then fet out to return towards the Refolution ; but the fair weather which had favoured us hitherto, was now fucceeded by a florm at N. W, which blew in hard fqualls, attended with violent fhowcrs of rain. We made fhifc to row down the arm into the entrance which led to the floop, and there fharing the remains of a bottle of rum among our boat's crew, by way of encouragement, we entered the hollow fea in the paffage. The violence of the wind, and the height of the fliort waves were fuch, that in fpight of our utmofl efforts wc were thrown above half a mile to leeward in a few minutes, and narrowly cfcaped being fwamped. With the greatefl difficulty we regained the inlet out of which wc had paffed, and about two o'clock in the afternoon we put into a fmall fnug cove, at its north entrance. After fecuring our boat in the befi. manner poffible, we climbed on a bleak hill, where we made a fire on a narrow rock, and attempted to broil fome fifhes ; but though wc were foaked with rain, and fevercly eut by the wind, yet it was impofhble for us to keep near our fire, of which the flames were continually whirled about in a vortex by the florm, fo that we were forced to
change
change our places every moment* in order to eicape being fcorched or burnt.    The florm now encrealed to fuch a violence, that we could hardly Hand on this barren fpot ; and therefore it was refolved, for our own and the boat's greater fafety, to crofs the cove, and take up our night's quarters in the woods immediately under the lee of the high mountains.    Every one of us feized a firebrand and flepped into the boat, where we made a formidable appearance, as if we were bound on fome defperatc expedition.   To our great disappointment the woods were almoft worfe than the rock we had left, being fo wet that it was with the utmoft difficulty our fire would burn ; we had no Inciter from the heavy rains which came down upon us in double portions from the leaves ; and the wind not allowing the fmoke to afcend, we were almoft fliflcd with it.   Here we lay down on the moift ground, wrapped in wet cloaks thoroughly foaked and cold, fupperlefs, and tormented with rheumatic pains ; and, notwithstanding all thefe inconvcnicncies, fell alleep for a few moments, being entirely exhaufted with fatigue. But about two o'clock we were roufed by a loud thunder-clap.   The ftorm was now at its height, and blew a perfect hurricane. The roar of the waves at a diftance was tremendous, and only overcome at times by the agitation of the forefls, and the crafhing fall of huge timber-trees around us.   We went to look after our boat, and at that inftant a dreadful
flafh
flafb. of lightning illuminated the whole arm of the fea ; jjgjy We faw the billows foaming, and furioufly rolled above each other in livid mountains ; in a word, it feemed as if all nature was haflening to a general cataftrophe.
Non han più gli elcmenti ordine o fcgno, ■ S'odono orrendi tuoni, ognor più crefee De' fieri venti il furibondo fdegno.
Increfpa, e inlividifce il mar la faccia, ^ E s'alza contra il cicl che lo minaccia. Tassoni.
The lightning was inftantaneoufly followed by the moli aflonifhing explofion we had ever heard, reverberated from the broken rocks around us ; and our hearts funk with apprehcnfion left the fhip might be deftroyed by the tempeft or its concomitant aettierìal fires, and ourfelves left to perifli in an unfrequented part of the world. In this difmal fituation wc lingered out the night, which feemed the longefl we had ever known. At laft about fix in the Saturday 8. morning the violence of the florm abated, we embarked about day break, and reached the veffel foon after, which had been obliged to fit ike yards and top-mafts. The inlet we had now furvcyed, received the name of Wet Jacket Arm, from the dreadful night we paffed in it. There now remained only one inlet to the northward of this unexplored ; and captain Cook, finding himfelf recovered, fet our, immediately after our return, to examine it.    He proceeded
Vol. I. 13 b up
iS6
A   VOYAGE   ROUND  TflE WORLD.
m"y UP a^out ten miles, and faw nearly the end of this arm, which like the other, contains good harbours and plenty of frefh. water, wood, fifh, and wild fowl. On his return his people had the wind and heavy rains to flruggle with, and all returned on board thoroughly wet, at nine in the
Sunday 9. evening. The next morning the fky being clear, but the ^ wind unfavourable for going out to fea, we accompanied captain Cook once more on a mooting party up the new arm, where we fpent the whole day, and met with tolerable good fport ; but another party, who had taken a different route, came back almoft empty-handed.
The wind continuing weflerly and blowing very hard, the captain did not think it advifeablc to put to fea ; but it falling moderate in the afternoon, he made an excurfion to an ifland in the entrance, on which were abundance of feals. He and his party killed ten of them, of which they took five on board, leaving the refi behind them.
Tuefday it. T^c next morning it was pretty clear, the air very cold and fharp, and all the hills covered with fnow almoft half way down to the water, fo that the winter was now fairly fet in. A boat was fent to fetch off the feals killed laft night, which had been left behind; and in the mean time we weighed and failed from Dufky Bay, getting clear of the land at noon.
The
The flay which we had made here of fix weeks, and four days, together with the abundance of frefh provifions which wc enjoyed, and the conftant cxercife we ufed, had contributed to recover all thofe who had been ill of the fcurvy at our arrival, and given new flrength to the refi. However it is much to be doubted, whether we fhould have prcferved our health fo well as we did, without the ufe of the fermented liquor or fpruce-bcer which we brewed. The climate of Dufky Bay, is  I muft own, its greatefl inconvenience, and can never be fuppofed a healthy one. During the whole of our flay, we had only one week of continued fair weather, all the refi of the time the rain predominated. But perhaps the climate was lefs noxious to Englifhmen than to any other nation, becaufe it is analagous to their own.    Another inconvenience in Dufky Bay is the want of celery, fcurvy-grafs,   and other antifcorbutics, which may be found in great plenty at Queen Charlotte's found, and many parts in New Zeeland.   The intricate forefls which clothe the ground, the prodigious fteepnefs of the hills, which on that account are almofl incapable of cultivation, and the virulent bite of fand-flies, which caufes ulcers like the fmali-pox,  are certainly difagrecable cir-cumftances ; but of fmall confequence to thofe who only put in here for refrefhment, when compared to the former. With all its defects, Dufky Bay is one of the fined places
B b 2 , in
in New Zeeland, for a fet of people to touch at in our fituation, exhausted with labours and hardfbips of long continuance, and deprived of the fight of land above four months. Nothing is more eafy than to fail into it, there being no danger except what is vifible above water, and fo many harbours and coves exifling in every part of it, that it is impoflible to mifs a convenient anchoring-placc, where wood, water, fidi, and wild-fowl are to be found in plenty.
CHAP.
1771-
May.
CHAP. VI.
Paffage from Dufky Bay to Queen Charlotte's Sound.—Junction with the Adventure.—Tranfaclions during our Jiay there.
TAVING hoifted in our boar, which returned loaden Tuefday ir» with feals, we flood to the northward, with a heavy S. W. fwell, and numerous footy albatroffes and blue petrels attending us. As we advanced along fhore, the mountains feemed to decreafe in height, and in four and twenty hours the thermometer rofe 7 L degrees, having been at 460 on the day after we left Dufky Bay, and Handing at 5310 the next morning at eight o'clock. Thurf(hy |p
On the 14th, being off Cape Foul-wind, our favourable gale left us, as if it meant to authenticate the propriety of the denomination, and we really had a contrary wind. It blew a hard gale all the 1 6th, attended with heavy Sunday lC. rains, and we kept plying the whole day, making one of our boards clofe in fhore under Rock's Point.
At four o'clock in the morning on the r 7 th we flood to the eaftward with a fair wind, fo that we were abreaft of Cape Farewell at eight o'clock. Here we faw the land appearing low and fandy near the fea-fhore, though it rofe into high fnow-capt mountains in the interior parts. Vafl flocks of the little diving petrel, (procellaria tridaclylaj were
feen;
mIv **cen ^Uttering °n the furface of the fea, or fitting on it, or diving to confiderable diflances with amazing agility. They feemed exactly the fame which we had feen on the 29th of January and the 8th of February, in the latitude of 480 S. when we were in fearch of M. Kerguelen's Iflands.
In the afternoon, about four o'clock, we were nearly oppofitc Cape Stephens, and had little or no wind. We obferved thick clouds to the S. W. about that time, and faw that it rained on all the fouthern parts of that cape. On a fudden a whititli fpot appeared on the fea in that quarter, and a column arofc out of it, looking like a glafs tube; anotlcr feemed to comedown from the clouds to meet this, and they made a coalition, forming what is commonly called a water-fpout.   A little while after we took notice of three other columns, which were formed in the fame manner as the firfl.   The nearefl of all thefe was about three miles diftant, and its apparent diameter, as far as we could guefs, might be about feventy fathom at the bafe.    We found our thermometer at $4l when this phenomenon firfl took its rife.   The nature of water-fpouts and their caufes being hitherto very little known, we were extremely attentive to mark every little circumflance attendant on this appearance.   Their bafe, where the water of the fea was violently agitated, and rofe in a fpiral form in vapours, was a broad fpot, which looked bright and
yellowifh
ycllowifli when illuminated by the fun. The column was of a cylindrical form, rather encreafmg in width towards the upper extremity. Thefe columns moved forward on the fur face of the fea, and the clouds not following them with equal rapidity, they affumed a bent or incurvatcd fhape, and frequently appeared eroding each other, evidently proceeding in different directions ; from whence we concluded, that it being calm, each of tbefc water-fpouts caufed a wind of its own. At laft they broke one after another, being probably too much diftended by the difference between their motion and that of the clouds. In proportion as the clouds came nearer to us, the fea appeared more and more covered with fhort broken waves, and the wind continually veered all round the compafs, without fixing in any point. We foon faw a fpot on the fea, within two hundred fathom of us, in a violent agitation. The water, in a fpace of fifty or fixty fathoms, moved towards the centre, and there rifing into vapour, by the force of the whirling motion, afcended in a fpiral form towards the clouds. Some hailftones fell on board about this time, and the clouds looked exceedingly black and louring above us. Directly over the whirl-pool, if I may fo call the agitated fpot on the fea, a cloud gradually tapered into a long flender tube, which feemed to defcend to meet the rifing fpiral, and foon united with it into a flrait column of a cylindrical form.    We could diftinctly obferve the
water;
maV, water hurled upwards with the greatefl violence in a fpiral, and it appeared that it left a hollow fpace in the centre ; fo that we concluded the water only formed a hollow tube, inflead of a folid column. We were flrongly confirmed in this belief by the colour, which was exactly like any hollow glafs-tube. After fome time the laft water-fpout was incurvated and broke like the others, with this difference, that its disjunction was attended with a flafh of lightning, but no explofion was heard. Our fituation during all this time was very dangerous and alarming; a phenomenon which carried fo much terrific mnjcfty in it, and connected as it were the fea with the clouds, made our oldeft mariners uneafy and at a lofs how to behave; for moft of them, though they had viewed water-fpouts at a diftance, yet had never been fo befet with them as we were ; and all without exception had heard dreadful accounts of their pernicious effects, when they happened to break over a fhip. Wc prepared indeed for the word, by cluing up our topfails ; but it was the general opinion that our malls and yards muft have gone to wreck if we had been drawn into the vortex. It was hinted that firing a gun had commonly fucceeded in breaking water-fpouts, by the flrong vibration it caufes in the air ; and accordingly a four-pounder was ordered to be got ready, but our people being, as ufual, very dilatory about it, the danger was paft before we could try this experiment.    How far
electricity
electricity may be confidered as the caufe of this phenomenon, we could not determine with any preciiion ; fo much however feems certain, that it has fome connection with it, from the flam of lightning, which was plainly obferved at the burfling of the laft column.    The whole time, from their fir ft appearance to the diffolution of the laft, was about three quarters of an hour.    It was five o'clock when the latter happened, and the thermometer then flood at 540 or 2l degrees lower, than when they began to make their appearance.    The depth of water we had under us was thirty-fix fathom.   The place we were in was analogous to moil places where water-fpouts have been obferved, inafmuch as it was in a narrow fea or flrait. Dr. Shaw and Thevenot faw them in the Mediterranean and Perfian Gulph; and they are common in the Weft Indies, the Straits of Malacca, and the Chinefe fea.    Upon the whole, wc were not fortunate enough to make any remarkable difcoveries in regard to this phenomenon ; all our obfervations only tend to confirm the facts already noticed by others, and which are fo largely commented upon by the learned Dr. Benjamin Franklin, F, R. S.    His ingenious hypoihefis, that whirlwinds and water-fpouts have a common origin, has not been invalidated by our obfervations.   Wrc refer our philofophical readers to his papers, as containing the moft complete and fat is factory account of water-fpouts*.
'* Sec his Experiments on Elc&ricity, &c. 4to. fifth edition, London, 1774.
Vol. 1. Cc About
About five o'clock the next morning we opened Queen Charlotte's Sound, and about feven we faw three flafhes rifing from the fouth end of the Motu-Jro, where a hippab, or flrong hold of the natives, was fituated, which is defcribed in Lieutenant Cook's voyage in the Endeavour*. We immediately conceived that they were fignals made by Europeans, and probably by our friends in the Adventure ; and upon firing fome four-pounders, had the pleafure of being anfvvered out of the Ship Cove, oppofite the ifland. Towards noon we could difcern our old confort at anchor ; and foon after were met by feveral of her officers, who brought us a prefent of frefh filli, and gave us an account of what had happened to them after our feparation. In the afternoon it fell calm, fo that we were obliged to be towed into the cove, where we anchored at feven in the evening.    In the mean time Captain Furneaux came on board, and teflified his fatisfaólion at rejoining us, by a falute of thirteen guns, which our people cheerfully returned.    Thofe who have been in fituations fimilar to ours, may form an adequate idea of the reciprocal pleafure which this meeting produced,   It was heightened on both fides, by the recent impreffions of accumulated dangers to which our feparate courfes had expofed us, and which under Providence we had happily efcaped.
• See Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 395, 400.
The
The Adventure, after lofing our company, had continued her courfe to the northward of us, between the latitudes of 50° and 540 fouth, experiencing very heavy gales from the weflward during the whole time.   On the 28th of February, being in about 1220 of longitude weft from Greenwich, Captain Furneaux thought it advifeable gradually to defcend into the latitude of Diemen's Land, or the extremity of New Holland, difcovered by Abel JanfTen Tafman in November 1642.    On the <?th of March he fell in with the S. W. part of this coaft, and running along its fouthern extremity, came to an anchor on the 11 th in the afternoon, in a bay on the eaft fide, which he called Adventure Bay, and which is probably the fame where Tafman lay at anchor, diftinguifhed by the name of Frederick Henry Bay.    The fouthern extremities of this coaft con-fiftcd of large broken maffes of barren and blackifh rocks, refembling the extreme points of the African and American continents.   The land round the bay rofe in fandy hillocks, of which the innermoft were covered with various forts of trees, rather remote from each other, and without any brulla-wood.     They alfo found a lake of frelli water on the weft fide, covered with great flocks of wild-ducks and other aquatic fowls.   Several iflands in the offuv; to the N E. along more, were of a moderate height, and likewife covered with wood.    Tafman probacy took them for one great ifland, which in his charts
C c 2 bears
bears the name of Maria's Iiland. The Adventure lay only three days in this bay, during which Captain Furneaux took in a finali quantity of frefh water, and collected feveral curious animals, among which was a fpecies of Viverra, and a fine white hawk. Our Europeans perceived no inhabitants during their flay, but thought they obferved fome fmoke at a great diftance in the country.
On the i 5th in the evening they weighed and failed out of Adventure Bay, Handing along fhore to the northward. They found it confided of fandy hills of a moderate height, but faw at the fame time fome much higher in the interior country. At different parts of this coad they met with feveral iflands, particularly thofe which Tafman named Schouten's and Vander Lyn's Iflands. About the latitude of 41 0 1 5 fouth, they opened a little bay, which, on account of feveral fires, probably lighted by the natives, they named the Bay of Fires. They continued examining the coad, not without running fome danger from numerous fhoals, till the 1 9th of March at noon, when being in the latitude of 39° 20 fouth, and dill feeing the land about eight leagues to the north-wedward, they concluded that Dicmen's Land was connected with the continent of New Holland, and directed their courfe towards the rendezvous at New Zeeland. However, as they had been obliged, by the frequency of fhoals, to keep out of fight of the coad feveral times, and there remained a fpace of twenty leagues from
the
A   VOYAGE   ROUND   TUE WOULD.
the northcrnmoft land they had feen, to Point Hicks, the fouthern boundary of captain Cook's difcoveries in the Endeavour ; it is Hill undetermined, whether a If rait or paffage does not cxift between the main of New Holland and Die-men's Land, though the appearance of quadrupeds upon the latter, rather feems to favour the idea of their being connected together.   Be this as it may, there is perhaps no part of the world which fo well deferves future invefti-gation as the great continent of New Holland, of which we do not yet know the whole outline, and of whofe productions we are in a manner entirely ignorant.   Its inhabitants, from the accounts of all the voyagers who have vifited them, are but few in number, probably dwell on the fea-coafls only, go perfectly naked, and feem by all de-fcription to lead a more favage life than any nation in warm climates.    There Ì3 consequently avail interior fpace of ground, equal to the continent of Europe, and in great meafure fituated between the tropics, entirely unknown, and perhaps uninhabited : nothing is more certain, from the vail variety of animal and vegetable productions, collected on its fea-coa(ls in captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour, than that the inner countries contain immenfe treafures of natural knowledge, which muft of courfe become of infinite ufe to the civilized nation, which fhail firfl attempt to go in fearch of them.    The fouth-weft corner
of
of this continent, which hitherto remains wholly unexplored, may perhaps open a way to the heart of the country ; for it is not likely, that fo great an extent of land, fituated under the tropic, fhould be deftitute of a great river, and no part of the coaft feems better fituated than that for its paffage into the fea.
After leaving this coaft, the Adventure continued fifteen days at fea, on account of contrary winds, and at length made the coaft of New Zeeland, near Rock's Point, on the fouthern ifland, on the third of April, at fix in the morning, and came to an anchor at Ship Gove, Queen Charlotte's Sound, on the 7th.
During their ftay here, they had made the fame eftablifh-ments on fhore as we had done at Dufky Bay, except the brewery, which they were not yet acquainted with. They had found the Hppah, or flrong-hold of the natives, at the fouthern end of Motu-Aro forfaken, andaheir aftronomer had fixed his obfervatory upon it.   The inhabitants of this found, who amount to fome hundred perfons, in feveral diftinct and independent parties,   often at variance with each other, had begun an intercourfe with them, and paid them feveral vifits, coming from the interior parts. They had been extremely well received, and did not hefitate to come on board, where they eat freely of the failor's pro-vifions, mowing a particular liking to our bifcuir, md
peafe-
peafe-foup. They had brought with them great quantities of their clothing, tools, and weapons, which they eagerly exchanged for nails, hatchets, and cloth.
On the 11 th of May, being the fame day we failed out of Dufky Bay, feveral of the Adventure's people, who were at work on fhore, or difperfed on mooting parties, diflinct-ly felt a fhock of an earthquake -, but thofe who remained on board, did not perceive any thing of it. This circumuance may ferve to evince the probability of volcanoes on New Zeeland, as thefe two great phenomena on our globe fcem to be clofely connected together.
We arrived in Queen Charlotte's Sound, at the time when the Adventure's crew began to defpair of ever meeting with us again, and had made preparations to fpend the whole winter in this harbour, in order to proceed to the eafl ward, with the enfuing fpring, to explore the South Sea in high latitudes.     Captain Cook, however, was by no means inclined to lie inactive during fo many months, efpccially as he knew, that confiderable refreshments were to be had at the Society Ifles, which he had vifited in his former voyage.    He therefore gave directions to put both floops in condition to go to fea, as foon as poffible ; and the Refolution being entirely prepared for that purpofe, her crew affifled that of the Adventure for the fake of greater difpatch.
We
Wc began our excursions the day after our arrival, and found the productions of the forefls very fimilar to thofe of Dufky Bay, but the feafon and climate infinitely more favourable to our botanical refearches. We were fortunate enough to meet with feveral fpecics of plants ft il 1 in flower, and alfo found fome birds, which we had not feen before. But the antifcorbmic plants, which grew on every beach, gave this port the mod diftinguifhed advantage over our firfl place of refrefhment. We immediately gathered vafl quantities of wild celery, and of a well-tailed fcurvy-grafs (lepidium) which were daily boiled with fome oat-meal or wheat for breakfad, and with peafe-foup for dinner ; and the people on board the Adventure, who had hitherto not known the ufe of thefe greens, now followed our example. We alfo found a fpecies of fow-thidle [fonchus okraceusj and a kind of plant which our people called lamb's quarters, (tetragonia cornata*,) which we frequently ufed as fallads ; and if we had not fuch plenty of wildfowl and fifhes as at Dufky Bay, we were amply recom-penfed by thefe excellent vegetables. The fpruce and the tea-tree of New Zeeland likewife grew in great plenty hereabouts, and we taught our friends to make ufe of both for their refrefhment.
* Sec Hawkefworth, vol, III. p. 442,
The
The next day we went to the Hippah, or fortification of the natives, where Mr. Bailey, the aftronomcr of the Adventure had fixed his obfervatory. It is fituated on a fteep infulated rock, which is acceffible only in one place, by a narrow difficult path, where two perfons cannot go abreafl. At the top it had been furrounded by fome pali-fadoes, but thefe were in mofl parts removed, and had been ufed for fuel by our people. The huts of the natives flood promifcuoufly within the enclofure, and had no walls, but confiflcd only of a roof, which rofe into a fleep ridge. The inner fkeletons of thefe huts were branches of trees plaited fo as to refcmble hurdles ? on thefe they had laid the bark of trees, and covered the whole with the rough fibres of the flag, or New Zeeland flax-plant. We were told, that the people from the Adventure had found them exceeding full of vermin, and particularly fleas, from which it fhould feem that they had been but lately inhabited ; and indeed it is not unlikely, that all thefe flrong places are only the occafional abode of the natives, in cafe of danger from their enemies ; and that they forfake them, whenever their per-fonal fafety does not require their rcfidence. Our fellow-voyagers likewife found immenfe numbers of rats upon the Hippah rock, fo that they were obliged to put fome large jars in the ground, level with the furface, into which thefe vermin fell during night, by running backwards and forwards j and great number of them were caught in this Vol. I. D d manner.
manner. It is therefore very probable, that rats are indigenous in New Zeeland, or at lead: that their arrival there, is prior to its difcovery by European navigators. Captain Furneaux (liewed us feveral fpots of ground on the top of this rock, which be had ordered to be dug, and on which he had fown a great variety of garden-feeds \ thefe fucceeded fo well that we frequently had fallads, and many difhes of European greens at our table, notwithflanding the feafon of winter was now far advanced. But the climate in this part of New Zeeland is extremely mild, when compared to that of Duiky Bay j and notwithflanding the vicinity of the fnowy mountains, I am inclined to believe it feldom freezes hard in Queen Charlotte's Sound j. at leafl we experienced no frofl during our continuance there to the 6th of June. Saturday za,      On the 22d we went over to an ifland in the found,.
to which captain Cook had given the name of Long Illand in his former voyage. It confifts of one long ridge, of which the fides are flecp, and the back or top nearly level,, though in mofl places very narrow. On its N. W. fide we faw a fine beach, furrounding a little piece of flat land, of which the greatefl part was marfhy, and covered with-various graffes ; the reft was full of antifcorbutics, and the New Zeeland flax-plant (phormhim), growing round fome old abandoned huts of the natives. We cleared fome fpots of ground here, and fowed European garden feeds on them,
which
which we thought were likely to thrive in this place. We alfo climbed to the top of the ridge, which wc found covered with dry graffo, intermixed with fome low, fhrubby plants ; and among them a number of quails exactly like thofe of Europe, had their refidence. Several deep and narrow glens which ran down the fides of the ridge to the fea, were filled with trees, fhrubs, and climbers, the haunt of numerous fmall birds, and of feveral falcons ; but where the cliffs were perpendicular, or hanging over the water, great flocks of a beautiful fort of fhags, built their nefls on every little broken rock, or if pofliblc in fmall cavities about a foot fquare, which feemed in a few inflances to be enlarged by the birds themfelves* The argillaceous ftone, of which moft of the hills about Queen Charlotte's Sound confided, is fometimes fufhciently foft for that purpofe. It runs in oblique flrata, commonly dipping a little towards the fouth, is of a greenifh-grey, or bluifli, or yellowifh-brown colour, and fometimes contains veins of white quartz. A green talcous or nephritic flone, is alfo found in this kind of rock, and when very hard, capable of polifh, and femi-tranfparent ; it is ufed by the natives for chiffels, hatchets, and fometimes for pattoo-pattoos : it is of the fame fpecies which jewellers call the jadde. Several fofter forts of this flone, perfectly opaque, and of a pale green colour, are more numerous than the flinty femi-tranfparent kind ; and feveral fpecics of horn-
D d 2 flone
flone and argillaceous fiate likewife are feen running in great flrata through fome of the mountains. The latter is commonly found in great quantity, and broken pieces, on the fea beeches, and is what our feamen call fhingle, by which name it is diftinguifhed in the account of captain Cook's former voyage. On thefe beaches we alfo met with feveral forts of flinty flones and pebbles, and fome loofe pieces of black, compafl, and ponderous bafaltes, of which the natives form fome of their fhort clubs, called pattoo-pattoos. In many places we likewife faw flrata of a blackifh faxum Lin. confiiiing of a black and compact mica or glimmer, intermixed with minute particles of quartz. The argillaceous fiate is fometimes found of a rufly colour, which feems evidently to rife from irony particles -, and from this circumflance, and the variety of minerals jufl enumerated, there is great reafon to fuppofe that this part of New Zeeland contains iron ore, and perhaps feveral other metallic bodies. Before we left this place, we found fome fmall pieces of a whitifh pumice -Hone on the fea-fhore, which, together with the bafaltine lava, flrongly confirm the exiflcnce of volcanoes in New Zeeland.
On the 23d in the morning, two fmall canoes came towards us, in which were five men of the natives, the firfl we had feen fince the arrival of our floop in this harbour.   Their appearance was nearly the fame as that
Of
of the Dufky Bay people, with this difference, that they Ay££ feemed much more familiar and unconcerned. We bought fome fidi of them, and likewife made them fome prefents, conducting them into the cabin, as they did not hefitate to come on board. Seeing us fit down to dinner, they freely partook of our provifions, but drank pure water, refufing to touch either wine or brandy. They were fo refllefs, that they removed from our table to that of the officers in the fteerage, where they likewife eat with great appetite, and drank great quantities of water fvveetened with fugar, of which they were remarkably fond. Every thing they faw, or could lay hands upon they coveted, but upon the lead hint, that we either could not, or would not part with what they had taken up, they laid it down without reluctance. Glafs bottles, which they called taw-haw, were however particularly valuable to them ; and whenever they faw any of them, they always pointed to them, and then moved the hand to their bread, pronouncing the word mokh, by which they ufed to cxprefs their defirc of poffeffing any thing. Among the variety of little prefents we made them they did not notice beads, ribbons, white paper, &c. but were very eager after iron, nails, and hatchets ; a proof that the intrinfic value of thefe tools cannot fail to make an imprcflion on the minds of thefe people in the long run, though they were at firfl indifferent to them, as not knowing their ufe and durability.
SJJri b'ility. Some of our people having made ufe of their canoes in the afternoon to tranfport themfelves to the fhore, they came into the cabin complaining to the captain, whofe authority over the refi they very well conceived ; and their embarkations being reflored to them, they all went away highly pleafed. Monday 24. The next morning at day-break they returned, but brought four other perfons with them, one of them a woman, with fome children, and traded as ufual about the fhips. The captains embarked with us after breakfafl, in order to vifit an extenfive inlet on the northern fhore of the found, which was called Weft Bay in the Endeavour's voyage. On our way we met a double canoe, manned with thirteen perfons, who, coming along fide, made acquaintance with Captain Cook, and feemed to recoiled: him, by enquiring for Tupaya, the native of O-Taheitce, whom he had taken on board during his former voyage, and who had lived to vifit this country with him. When they were told that he was dead, they feemed much concerned, and pronounced fome words in a plaintive tone. We made figns for them to go on board the veffels lying in Ship Cove ; but when they faw us going on to the fouth, they returned to the cove from whence they came.
We found the country not quite fo fteep as at the fouthern extremity of New Zeeland, and the hills near the fea-fide were in general of an inferior height.   In moft parts,
however,
however, they were covered with forefls,, equally intricate and impenetrable as thofe of Dufky Bay, but containing a greater number of   pigeons, parrots,   and fmall birds, which perhaps abandon that rude climate during the cold feafon,  and pafs their winter in thefe milder regions. Oylier-catchers or fea-pies,  and various forts of mags, likewife enlivened the fea fhorcs here, but ducks were extremely fcarce.    Weft Bay contains a number of fine coves, each of which affords excellent anchorage; the hills rife gently all round it, covered with fhrubs and trees, and many of their fummits are clear of woods, but overgrown with a common fpecies of fern, (acrofllaim furcaium.) This is likewife the cafe with many iflands in the,found, and great part of the fouth-eafl fhore of the found from Cape Koamaroò to Eafl Bay.   After collecting a number of new plants, among which was a fpecies of pepper, very much refembling ginger in the tafle, and mooting many birds of all forts, we returned on board late in the evening.
The launch, which had been fent out in the morning to an adjacent cove, in order to cut geeens for the fhip's company and fome grafs for our goats and fheep, did not return that day ; but flaying out all the next likewife, we began to be very uneasy about the twelve people in her, among whom were our third lieutenant, the lieutenant of marines, Mr, Hodges, the carpenter, and the gunner. Our apprehcnfions were the more juft, as the wind and weather
may. mer kaa* DCen favourable for their return from almoft any part of the bay, till the morning of the 25 th ; foon after which it began to be very rainy and ftormy. On the day we had gone to Weft Bay, a large canoe with twelve of the natives came from the north to our fhip, and after felling a variety of their dreffes, fome ftone hatchets, clubs, fpears, and even paddles, they returned the way they came.
On the 2 6th, afternoon, the weather being fomcwhat cleared up, our launch arrived on board, but all the people in her were exhaufted with fatigue and hunger. All the provifion they had taken out with them confided of three bifcuits and a bottle of brandy ; and they had not been able to fucceed in catching a fingle fifh during the temped nous weather. After being tolled about by the waves, attempting in vain to return to the veffels, they had put into a cove, on which they found a few deferted huts of the natives, where they took fhelter, and juft kept themfelves from ftarving by eating a few mufcles that adhered to the rocks.
The next morning we made our researches round the bottom of the cove, in queft of plants and birds ; and in the afternoon we went out along the rocky mores towards Point Jack fon, to kill fome mags, which we had now learnt to relitti indead of ducks. Between thefe two cxcurfions we received another vifit of the Indian family, whom we had feen before, on the 23d.   They feemed to be come for
no
no other purpofe than that of eating with us, having brought nothing with them to exchange for our iron-work. We now enquired for their names, but they were a long time before they could underftand us ; however, comprehending our meaning at laft, they gave us a collection of words, which had a fmgular mixture of gutturals and vowels.     The oldeft among  them was  called Towa-hàngha ; the others Kotughà-a, Koghoàà, Khoàà, Kollàkh, and Taywaherùa.    This laft was a boy about twelve or fourteen years of age, who had a very promifing countenance, and feemed to be the livclieft and moft intelligent among them.   He came into the cabin and dined with us, eating very voracioully of a fhag-pye, of which, contrary to our expectation, he preferred the cruft.    The captain offered him fome Madeira wine, of which he drank fome-thing more than one glafs, making a great many wry faces at firfl.    A bottle of a very fweet Cape wine being brought upon the table, a glafs was filled out to him, which he relifhed fo well that he was continually licking his lips, and defircd to have another, which he likewife drank off.    This draught began to elevate his fpirits, and his tongue ran on with great volubility..   He capered about the cabin, infifted on having the captain's boat-cjoak, which lay on a chair, and was much vexed at the rcfufai ; be next defired one of the empty bottles, and this re que ft likewife proving fruitlefs, he went out of the cabin \ Vol. L E e highly
highly offended. On deck he law fome of our fcrvants folding up linen which had been hung out to dry, and immediately feized on a table-cloth ; but this being taken from him, his paffion was at the higheft pitch, he damped, threatened, then grumbled, or rather grunted awhile, and at laft became fo fullen that he would not fpeak a word. The impatient temper of this nation never appeared more diftinctly than in this boy's conduct ; but at tha fame time we had room to confider, feeing the effect of flrong liquors upon him, how fortunate it was that they were ufed to no kind of intoxicating draught, which would perhaps ferve to make their temper flhT more fierce and ungovernable than it is at prefent.
About thirty natives furrounded us in feveral canoes the* next morning,   and brought a few of their tools and weapons to fell, for which they received great quantities 0f* our goods in exchange, owing to the eagcrnefs with which our crews outbid each other.    There were a number of: women among them, whofe lips were of a blackifh blue colour, by punctuation; and their cheeks were painted of a lively red, with a mixture of ruddle and oil.   Like thofe at Dufky Bay, they commonly had flender and bandy legs, with large knees ; defects which evidently are deducible from the little exercife they ufe, and their mode of fitting crofs-legged and cramped up almoft perpetually in canoes. Their colour was of a clear brown, between the olive and
mahogany
mahogany hues, their hair jetty black, the faces round, the nofe and lips rather thick but not flat, their black eyes fometimes lively and not without exprcflion ; the whole upper part of their figure was not difproportionate, and their aiTemblage of features not abfolutely forbidding, Qur crews, who had not converfed with women fince our departure from the Cape, found thefe ladies very agreeable j and from the manner in which their advances were received, it appeared very plainly that chaflity was not rigoroufly obferved here, and that the fex were far from being impregnable. However their favours did not depend upon their own inclination, but the men, as ab-folute matters, were always to be confulted upon the occa-fion ; if a fpike-nail, or a fhirt, or a fimilar prefent had been given for their connivance, the lady was at liberty to make her lover happy, and to exact, if poffible, the tribute of another prefent for herfelf. Some among them, however, fubmitted with reluctance to this vile proflitution ; and, but for the authority and menaces of the men, would not have complied with the defircs of a fet of people who could, with unconcern, behold their tears and hear their complaints. Whether the members of a civilized fociety, who could act fuch a brutal part, or the barbarians who could force their own women to fubmit to fuch indignity, deferve the greatefl; abhorrence, is a queflion not ealily to be decided.   Encouraged by the lucrative nature of this
E e 2 infamous
infamous commerce, the New Zcelanders went through the whole velTel, offering their daughters and fitters promifcu^ oufly to every perfon's embraces, in exchange for our iron tools, which they knew could not be purchafed at an eafier rate. It does not appear that their married women were ever fuffcred to have this kind of intercourfe with our people. Their ideas of female chaftity are, in this rc-fpect, fo different from ours, that a girl may favour a number of lovers without any detriment to her character y but if fhe marries, conjugal fidelity is exacted from her with the greatefl rigour. It may therefore be alledged, that as the New Zcelanders place no value on the continence of their unmarried women, the arrival of Europeans among them, did not injure their moral characters in this refpect; but we, doubt whether they ever debafed themfelves fo much as to make a trade of their women, before we created new wants by fhewing them iron-tools ; for the poffeffion of which they do not hefitate to commit an action that, in our eyes, deprives them of the very fhadow of fenfibility.
It is unhappy enough that the unavoidable confe-quence of all our voyages of difcovery, has always been the lofs of a number of innocent lives ; but this heavy injury done to the little uncivilized communities which Europeans have vifitcd, is trifling when compared to the irretrievable harm entailed upon them by corrupting
their
their morals. If thefe evils were in fome meafure com-penfated by the introduction of fome real benefit in thefe countries, or by the abolition of fome other immoral cuf-t'oms among their inhabitants, we might at leafl comfort ourfelves, that what they loft on one hand, they gained on the other ; but I fear that hitherto our intercourfc has been wholly difadvantagcous to the nations of the South Seas ; and that thofe communities have been the leaf! injured, who have always kept aloof from us, and whofe jealous difpofition did not fuller our failors to become too familiar among them, as if they had perceived in their countenances that levity of difpofition, and that fpirit of debauchery, with which they are generally reproached.
Several of thefe people were invited into the cabin, where Mr. Hodges applied himfelf to fketch the molt characte-riftic faces, while we prevailed on them to fit ft ill for a few moments, keeping their attention engaged, by a variety of trifles which we fhewed, and fome of which we prefented to them.   We found feveral very ex'preflive countenances among them, particularly fome old men, with grey or White heads and beards ; and fome young men, with amazing bufhy hair, which hung wildly over their faces, and increafed their natural favage looks.   The ftature of thefe people was middle fized in general, and their form and colour almoft entirely the fame as that of the Dufky Bay people; their drefs was likewife made in the fame manner
ncr of the flax-plant, but never interwoven with feathers, in lieu of which they had bits of dog-fkin at the four corners of their cloaks, which the others were not fortunate enough to poffefs. The boghe e-boghe e t or fhaggy-eloak, which hangs round their neck like a thatch of ftraw*, was almoft conftantly worn by them, on account of the feafon, during which the air began to be fharp, and rains were very frequent. But their other kinds of cloth J were here commonly old, dirty, and not fo neatly wrought as they are defcribed in captain Cook's firfl voyage. The men wore their hair hanging in a very flovenly manner about them, but the women had theirs cut fhort, which feems to be the general practice among them. They alfo wore the head-drefs, or cap of brown feathers, mentioned in the account of captain Cook's former voyage. After thefe people had been on board a few hours, they began to fteal, and fecrete every thing they could lay their hands on. Several of them were difcovered in conveying away a large four-hour glafs, a lamp, fome handkerchiefs, and fome knives; upon which they were ignominioufly turned out of the floop, and never permitted to come on board again. They felt the whole weight of fhamc, which this proceeding brough; upon them ; and their fiery temper, which cannot brook any humiliation, was up in arms at this
* See Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. Ill, p. 453, &c. Ì Ibid, p. 455.
punifh-
punifhment ; fo that one of them uttered threats, and made violent geflures in his canoe. In the evening they all went on fhore, abreafl of the floops, and made fome temporary huts of the branches of trees, near which they hawled their canoes on the dry land, and made fires, over which they prepared their fuppcrs. Their meals confifled of fome frefh fifhes, which they had caught in their canoes not far from fhore, with a kind of fcoop-net, defcribed in captain Cook's former voyage, which they managed with a dexterity peculiar to themfelves.
The next morning we had fine mild weather, and Sunday 3 made a trip over to Long Ifland, in order to look after fome hay, which our people had cut there, and to collect greens for the fhip's company, near the huts which the natives had abandoned. We were fortunate enough at the fame time to find fome new plants, and fhoot feveral little birds, different from thofe which had hitherto fallen into our hands. In the afternoon, many of our failors were allowed to go on fhore, among the natives, where they traded for cuiiofities, and purchafed the embraces of the Tadies, notwithflanding the difgufl which their unclcanlinefs infpired. Their cuflom of painting their cheeks with ochre and oil, was alone fafficient to deter the more fenfible from fuch intimate connections with them ; and if we add to this a certain flench which announced them even at a ditlance, and the abundance of vermin which not only in-
fefted
m7™' fefled their hair, but alfo crawled on their clothes, and which they occasionally cracked between their teeth, it is aflonifhing that perfons mould be found, who could gratify an animal appetite with fuch loathfome objects, whom a civilized education and national cufloms mould have taught them to hold in abhorrence.
------Uncle
Haec tetigit, Gradive, tuos urtica nepotes ? Juvenal.
Before they returned on board again, a woman (Iole a jacket belonging to one of our failors, and gave it to a young fellow of her own nation. The owner finding it in the young man's hands, took it from him, upon which he received feveral blows with the fifl. Thefe he believed were meant in joke, but as he was advancing to the water-fule, in order to flep into the boat, the native threw feveral large ftoncs at him. The failor was rouzed, and returning to the fellow, began to box him after the Englifh manner, and in a few moments had given the New Zee-lander a black eye, and bloody nofé ; upon which the latter, to all appearance much terrified, declined the combat, and ran off.
Captain Cook, who was determined to omit nothing which might tend to the prefervation of European garden-plants in this country, prepared the foil, fowed feeds, and tranfplantcd the young plants in four or five different pans
of
of this found.   He had cultivated a fpot of ground on the mLy. beach of Long Ifland, another on the Hippah rock, two more on the Motu-Aro, and one of confiderable extent at the bottom of Ship Cove, where our veffels lay at anchor. He chiefly endeavoured to raife fuch vegetables as have Ufeful and nutritive roots, and among them particularly potatoes, of which we had been able to preferve but few in a fiate of vegetation.   He had likewife fown corn of feveral forts, beans, kidney-beans, and peafe, and devoted the latter part of his flay in great meafurc to thefe occupations.
Early on the firfl of June feveral canoes full of natives iJSJ* came on board, whom we had not feen before.   Their canoes were of different fizes, and three of them had fails, which are but feldom feen among them.   The fail confined of a large triangular mat, and was fixed to a mafl, and a boom joining below in an acute angle, which could both be flruck with the greatefl facility. The upper edge, or broadefl part of the fail, had five tufts of brown feathers on its extremity.   The bottom of thefe canoes confided of a long hollow trunk of a tree, and the fides were made of feveral boards or planks above each other, which were united by means of a number of firings of the New Zeeland flax-plant, palled through fmall holes, and tied very faft. The feams between them arc caulked with the downy or woolly fubflance of the reed-mace (typha latifolia.)   Some of the ca-Vol, I. v f noes
noes were double, that is, two fattened along fide of each other, by means of tranfverfc flicks, lafhed on with ropes \ but where that was not the cafe, they had an outrigger, or narrow piece of plank fixed parallel to one fide of the canoe,, by means of tranfverfe poles, to prevent their ovcrfetting. All thofe we now faw had not that profufion of carving and fine workmanfhip, mentioned in captain Cook's firft voyage, which he obferved in the canoes of the northern iflands ; but feemed rather old, and worn out ; they were not, however, different in the general conformation from thofe defcribed there, and always had the dittorted human face at the head, the high ttern, and the neat fharp-pointed paddles.    The people in them brought for fale feveral orna-naments, which were new to us, cfpccially pieces of green nephritic flone, cut into various forms.   Some were of a flat fhape, with a fharp edge, and ferved as the blades of hatchets, or adzes ; fome were formed into long pieces,, which are hung into the ear ; others were little chiffels, infertcd in a wooden handle, and again others were cut out with great labour into a contorted and fquatted figure, fome-thing refcmbling the carricature of a man, in which a pair of monflrous eyes were inferred, made of the mother of pearl of an ear-fhell.    This laft, which they called è teeghee, was worn by perfons of both fexes, hanging on the breaft, from a firing pafted about the neck, and may perhaps relate to fome religious matters.   They fold us an apron,
made
made of their clofe-wrought cloth, covered with red feathers, faced with white dog-fkin, and ornamented with pieces of the ear-fliell; which is faid to be worn by the women in their dances. They brought a number of their fifh-hooks, which are of a remarkable clumfy form, made of wood, and barbed with a piece of bone, which was jagged, and which they alTured us was human bone. Several rows of human teeth, drawn on a thread, hung on their breafts, in the place of, or along with the teeghee, but they readily fold them to us, in exchange for iron tools, or trinkets. A good many dogs were obferved in their canoes, which they feemed very fond of, and kept tied with a firing, round their middle ; they were of a rough long haired fort, with pricked ears, and much refembled the common fhepherd's cur, or count Bufrbn's chlen de berger (fee his Hid. Nat.) They were of different colours, fome fpotted, fome quite black, and others perfectly white. The food which thefe dogs receive is fifh, or the fame as their mailers live on, who afterwards eat their flefh, and employ the fur in various ornaments and dreflès. They fold us feveral of thefe animals, among which the old ones coming into our poffeflion, became extremely fulky, and re-fufed to take any fuftenance, but fome young ones foon accuftomed themfelves to our proviftons. Several of the New Zeelanders came into the velici, and fome were conducted into the cabin, where they received fome prefents;
Ff 2 but
m«.     mlt none of them fhewcd that aftonifhment, and that de-rrrec of reflection and attention, which our old friend at Dufky Bay had manifefted on coming aboard.   Some of them were ftrangely marked in the face with deeply excavated fpiral lines j and one of them in particular, a tall and flrong man, and nearly middle-aged, had thefe marks very regular on his chin, cheeks, forehead, and nofe, fo that his beard, which would otherwife have been very thick, now confifled only of a few flraggling hairs.   This man's name was Tringho-Waya, and he feemed to have fome authority with his people, which WTas more than we had hitherto obferved among the fmall number who had vifited us.   The chief object of their commerce were fhirts and bottles, of which laft they were remarkably fond : perhaps becaufe they have nothing in which to keep liquida, except a minute kind of calabafli or gourd, which grows only in the northern ifland,  and was cxtrmely fcarce among the people  in  Queen Charlotte's Sound. They were not inclined however to make difadvantagcous bars-gains, and demanded the befl price for every little trifle which they offered for fale, though they were never offended with a refufal.   Some of them being in remarkable goodfpirits, gave us ahciva, or dance, on the quarter-deck. They placed themfelves in a row, and parted with their fhaggy upper garments : one of them fung fome words in a rude manner, and all the refi accompanied the gcflurcs
he
A VOYAGE  ROUND THE WO RED, 221
he made, alternately extending their arms, and {lamping with their feet in a violent and almoft frantic manner. The laft words which wc might fuppofe the burden of the fong, or a chorus, they all repeated together ; and we could eafily diftinguifh fome fort of metre in them, but were not fure they had rhimcs. The mufic was extremely rough, and of no great extent in thefe kinds of fongs. In the evening they all went off again, and returned to the upper part of the found from whence they came.
The next morning we accompanied the captains Cook Wednefd»y#; and Furneaux to Eaft Bay, and Grafs Cove, where they intended to collect a load of antifcorbutic greens. We had not only endeavoured to leave ufeful European roots in this country, but we were likewife attentive to flock its wilds with animals, which in time might become beneficial to the natives, and to future generations of navigators. To this purpofe captain Furneaux had already fent a boar and two lows to Canibal Cove, where they had been turned into the woods to range at their own pleafure ; and we now deprived ourfelves, with the fame view, of a pair of goats, male and female, which we left in an unfrequented part of Eaft Bay. Thefe places had been fixed upon, in hopes that our new colonifls would there remain unmoleikd by the natives, who indeed were the only enemies they had to fear, as their inconfiderate and barbarous temper would not fuffer them to make any reflection on
the
the advantages which future ages might reap from the propagation of fuch a valuable race of animals. On this cxcurfion we faw a large animal in the water about Grafs Cove, which feemed to be a fea-lion by its magnitude, but which we could not get a fhot at. We had already difcovered a fmall fpecies of bats in the woods, fo that the lift of the indigenous quadrupeds in New Zeeland was increafed to five, including the domeftic dog of the natives j and it is much to be doubted whether it is poflible to add a fixth to that number. After we had ranged the woods in different parts* collected feveral plants, {hot a few birds, and taken in a great load of wild celery and fcurvy-grafs, we returned late on board.
On the third of June, we fent fome boats to Long Ifland to fetch our hay on board ; and having laid in a fufficient quantity of wood and water, put the fhip in a condition to go to fea, and refrefhed our crews with vafl quantities of greens, we were ready to fail with the firft opportunity. One of our boats in returning faw a large double canoe, and another in which they counted about fifty men, who immediately chaccd them : but our people not being armed, hoifled fail, and foon got away from them, fo that the New Zcelandcrs gave over the purfuit, and returned towards Eaft Bay from whence they came. Wc can by no means pretend to afiert that their intentions were hoflile in any degree, but prudence naturally fuggefted to our
people
people, not to place themfelves in the power of a fet of jjn; uncivilized men, who follow their own caprice inflead of laws.
The next morning we hoifled St. George's colours, the Friday 4. jack and pennant in honour of His Majefly's birth-day, which we prepared to celebrate with the ufual feflivities. The family of natives, whofe name I have mentioned page 209, and who by living conflantly in a neighbouring cove, were now intimate with us, came on board very early, and breakfafled with us. "Whilfl we were fitting in the flceragc, an officer acquainted the captain with the approach of a large double canoe, well manned with New Zeelanders, coming from the northward. We immediately went on deck, and faw the canoe about a mufket fhot from us, containing twenty-eight men, making towards our floop, which from her fize they probably took to be the commanding one. Our friends on board very earneflly told us they would be our enemies, and perfifled to fire at them ; nay Towahanga, the head of the family jumped on the arm chefl, which was placed on our quarter deck, and taking hold of a flick, made a number of warlike motions with it, and foon after fpokc to them very violently, but with fome degree of folemnity, at the fame time brandifhing, as it feemed in defiance, a large hatchet of green nephritic flone, which he had never fhewn us before.   In the mean time the canoe approached, without
taking.
taking much notice of our friend, whom we perfuaded at laft to be filent.   Two people of a fine feature, one at the flern, and another about the middle of the canoe flood upright, while all the reft continued feated.   The former had a perfect black  cloak of the clofe-wrought kind, patched in compartments with dog-fkin ; he held a green plant of the New Zeeland flag in his hand, and now and then fpoke a few words.   But the other pronounced a long fpeech well articulated, loud, and very folemn, and gave his voice great variety of falls and elevations. From the various tones in which he fpoke, and a few geftures with which he  accompanied his  words,   he   appeared by turns to qucftion, to boaft, to threaten, to challenge, and to perfuade us ; he was fometimes running on in a moderate tone, then all at once breaking out into violent exclamations ; after which he made fhort paufes in order to recover his breath.   Having finifhed his oration, he was invited to come on board by the captain, who came to the ihip's fide ; he feemed at firft dubious and miftruftful, but his natural fpirit foon overcoming that diffidence, he ventured on board, and was prefently followed by all his people, who traded with the greatefl eagernefs for our iron wares. They immediately filmed the family of natives on board, with the ufual application of nofes, or as our failors ex-preffed it, they nofed each other, and paid every one of us upon the quarter-deck the fame compliment. The
two
two fpeakers were taken into the cabin, where we learnt the fecond orator's name was Teiratu, and that he came from the oppofite iiiore of the northern iiland, called Teera Whittee. They immediately enquired for Tupia (Tiipaya)> and, like thofe mentioned p. 206, feemed much concerned, and pronounced fome words in a mournful or plaintive voice on hearing of his death. So much had this man's fuperior knowledge, and his ability to converfe in their language rendered him valuable, and beloved even among a nation in a fiate of barbarifm. Perhaps with the capacity which Providence had allotted to him, and which had been cultivated no farther than the fimplicity of his education would permit, he was more adapted to raife the New Zee-landers to a Hate of civilization ftmilar to that of his own iflands, than ourfelves, to whom the want of the intermediate links, which connect, their narrow views to our extended fphèfe of knowledge, muff prove an obflacle in fuch an undertaking.
Teiratu and all his companions were a taller race of people than we had hitherto feen in New Zeeland, none of them being below the middle fize, and many above it. Their drefs, ornaments, and arms were richer than any we had obferved among the inhabitants of Queen Charlotte's Sound, and feemed to fpeak a kind of affluence, which was entirely new to us. Among their dreffes were feveral cloaks entirely lined with dog fkin, upon which
Vol. I. G g they
they fet a high value, and which indeed gave them a very comfortable appearance in the cold weather that now began to be felt. Many of their cloaks, made of the fibres of the New Zeeland flag (phormium), were new, and had elegant borders, very fymmetrically wrought in red, black, and white ; fo that they might have paffed for the work of a much more polifhed nation*. The black is fo itrongly fixed upon their fluffs, that it deferves the attention of our manufacturers, who greatly want a lafling dye of that colour on vegetable productions ; but the little progrefs we could make in their language, rendered it im-poffible to gain intelligence from them on this point. Their cloaks are fquare pieces, of which two corners were fattened on the breaft by firings, and fluck together by a bodkin of bone, whalebone, or green jadde. A belt of a fort of clofe matting of grafs, confined the lower extremities of their cloak to their loins, beyond wThich it extended at leaft to the middle of the thigh, and fometimes to the mid-leg. Notwithflanding this fuperiority over the natives of Queen Charlotte's Sound, they refembled them perfectly in their uncleanlinefs, and fwarms of vermin marched about in their cloaths. Their hair was dreffed in the fafhion of the country tied on the crown, greafed, and duck with white feathers ; and feveral of them had large combs, of fome cetaceous animal's bone, fluck upright jutt
* See Hawkefworthj vol. III.
behind
\
behind the bunch of hair on the head. Many of them were flrongly carved with fpirals in the face ; feveral had painted it with red ochre and oil, and were always much pleafed when we laid fome vermilion on their cheeks. We likewife faw fome little calabafhes among them, neatly carved, in which they kept fome {linking oil ; but whether it was animal or vegetable I could never learn. All their tools were very elegantly carved, and made with great attention. They fold us a hatchet, of which the blade was of the fmeft green jadde, and the handle curiouily ornamented with fretwork. They alfo brought fome mufical inftruments, among which was a trumpet, or tube of wood, about four feet long, and pretty jftrait; its fmall mouth was not above two inches, and the other not above five in diameter; it made a very uncouth kind of braying, for they always founded the fame note, though à performer on the French horn might perhaps be able to bring fome better mufic out of it. Another trumpet was made of a large whelk, (murex tritonhj mounted with wood, curiouily carved, and pierced at the point where the mouth was applied ; a hideous bellowing was all the found that could be procured out of this in-flrument. The third went by the name of a flute among our people, and was a hollow tube, widefl about the middle, where it had a large opening, as well as another at each end.   This and the flrft trumpet were both made of
G g 2 two
Jjg1**     two hollow fern icy linders of wood, exactly fitted and moulded together, fo as to form a perfect tube. Their double canoe was about fifty feet long, and feemed to be new ; both the high flern and the head were very curiouily carved with fretwork and fpiral lines, as defcribed in Capr. Cook's former voyage.    A mifhapen thing, which with fome difficulty we perceived was meant to reprefent a human head, with a pair of eyes of mother of pearl, and a long tongue lolling out of its mouth, conflituted the fore-molt extremity or prora of the canoe.   This figure is the molt common in all their ornaments, and principally in every thing that relates to warlike affairs.    The cuftom cf lolling out the tongue in contempt and defiance of the enemy, feems to have given rife to the frequent reprefenta^ tions of it ; the figure of the tongue forms the heads of their war-canoes, it is placed on the narrow extremity of their battle-axes, and they wear it on their breafl, tied to a firing round the neck ; nay they carve it on their very fcoops with which they bale the water, and on the pad* dies with which they manage their canoes.
Thefe people made but a very fhort flay with us, for feeing it began to blow frefh, they all embarked and paddled over to the Motu-Aro. The captain, accompanied by feveral gentlemen, followed them about noon, and found feven canoes there hauled on fhore, which had carried about ninety perfons to that iiland, who were all bulled
making
making huts for their temporary flicker. Our people were received with every mark of friendfhip, and the captain diflributed many prefents to them. Among thefe was a number of brafs medals, gilt, about one inch and three quarters in diameter, which had been flruck on purpofe to be left as a memorial of this voyage among the nations wc mould meet with : on one fide was the head of his prefent majefty, with the infeription, georce in, king of great Britain, france, and Ireland, &c. On the revcrfe, the reprefentation of two men of war, with the names resolution and adventure over them j and the exergue    sailed    from    england    march mdcclxxii
Some of thefe medals had already been given to the natives of Dufky Bay, and thofe of Queen Charlotte's Sound. In exchange for iron, cloth, and beads, our people collected a great number of arms, tools, dreffes, and ornaments, as curiofities among them, they having greater quantities of thefe things than any New Zeelanders we had feen. The captain and his company perceived that Tciratu> feemed to be the principal or chief among them, by a certain degree of regard which the refi paid to him : they could not, however, determine any thing with precifion on this fubjecr.. Refpect is always paid to the old men among them, who may be fuppofed to owe their confe-quence to the long experience they have gained.    But their
« It was originally intended that the floops fhould fail fo early as March.
chiefs j
chiefs, fuch as wc believed this Teiratu to be, are flrong, active, young men, in the prime and flower of their age. Thefe are perhaps elected, as among the North American favages ; being men of avowed courage, flrength, and military fagacity ; from a confeioufnefs that a body of men, in cafe of war, neceffarily requires a leader to animate them as a foul, and upon whofe fuperior talents they may confidently place all their hopes. The more we confider the warlike difpofition of the New Zeelanders, and the numerous fmall parties into which they are divided, this form of government will appear indifpenfible ; for it mufl be evident to them that the qualifications of a chief arc not to be inherited, or propagated from father to fon ; and it is likewife probable, that this free people may have had opportunities of making the obvious reflection, that hereditary government has a natural tendency towards defpo-tifm.
Captain Cook, apprehenfive left the natives fhould find our garden and deflroy it, not knowing for what purpofe it was intended, conducted Teiratu thither, and fliewed him every plant in ir, efpccially the potatoes. lie ex-preffed a great liking to the laft, and feemed to know them very well, evidently becaufe a fimilar root, the Virginian or fweet potatoe, (convolvulus batatas,) is planted in fome parts of the Northern Ifland, from whence he came. The captain parted from him, after obtaining the promife
that
that he would not deftroy his plantations, but leave every thing to grow up and propagate, and returned aboard the Refolution, where the marines fired three vollies, and our crews gave three heerty cheers in token of affection to their king.
The wind frefhened confiderably after noon, and con- Monday 7. tinued to blow very hard for two days following, fo that we were obliged to lie at anchor till the 7 th in the morning, when we weighed and failed out of Ship Cove, in company with the Adventure. Our flay here had proved fo beneficial to our crews, that they might now be faid to be to the full as healthy as when they left England ; and we had only a fingle fick man, a marine, on board our floop, who had laboured under a confumption and dropfy ever fince we had left England.
CHAP.
»773-
June,
CHAP. VII.
Run from New Zeeland to O-Taheitee.
\\7 E entered Cook's Strait after noon, and Handing down to the fouthward, beheld the immenfe ocean before us, which goes by the name of the South Sea. This vafl expanfe of fea, through which many former navigators had palled, in the happy climate of the torrid zone, but whofe middle latitudes no European veffel, except the Endeavour bark, had hitherto attempted to explore, has always been believed to contain a large trad of land, diflinguifhed by geographers with the name of a Southern Continent. Previous to the Endeavour's voyage, New Zeeland was thought the weflern coafl of this unknown land, and certain pretended difcoveries near America were aliened as its caflern fhores. Captain Cook in that voyage having cut off both thefe by his courfe, and even penetrated to 40 degrees of fouth latitude without finding land, the fouthern continent was retrained within narrower limits, though thefe were ft ill confiderable enough to engage the attention of future navigators. We were now to enter on this unexplored part, and running to the eaftward between the 50th and 40th degrees of fouth latitude, to fearch for undifcovered countries in the depth of
winter.
winter. Many among our fellow-voyagers proceeded on this dangerous expedition in the firm belief that we fhould fpeedily find the coafls we went in quell of, whofe novelty and valuable productions would amply reward our per-feverance and fatigues. But captain Cook, and feveral others, judging from what had been done in the former voyage, and what they had already experienced on this, were far from expecting to difcovcr new lands, and greatly doubted the exiflence of a fouthern continent.
We were Hill in the mouth of the ftrait at eight the Tuefday s. next morning, and faw the high mountains of the fouthern ifle loaded with fnow, from whence they had their name, whihl the weather below was clear and mild, our thermometer being about 5*1° in the fhade.   Great fhoals of cetaceous fifli, of a perfectly black colour, with a white fpot before the back-fin, pa fled by us.    They were fired at from our veffel, and one of them being fhot through the head, could no longer plunge under water, but began to beat about furioufly on the furfacc, and tinged the fea with its blood.   It feemed to be about three yards long, and was flender and blunt- headed, from whence our failors called it the bottle-nofe, a name which Dale applies to a very different flfh, the beaked whale, of which the beak or nofc refembles the neck of a bottle *«   We went at the
* Sec Pennant's Britifli Zoology.
Vol. I. H h rate
rate of three knots and a half at this time, fo that it was not thought proper to bring to, for the fake of taking up the dead filli.
wcdraivky 9. An infinite number of albatroffes, of all the three fpecies, hovered about us, after we were out of fight of the land. The common or large fort were of divcrfc colours, which we believed to differ according to age, and that the oldefl were almofl wholly white, thofe next them fomewhat more fprinkled with brown, and the younger! quite brown. Some of our failors, who had formerly failed on board of Eafl-India mips, after comparing the facility of thofe voyages to the hardfhips of the prefent, propagated the ludicrous idea among their mcfimatcs, that thefe birds contained the departed fouls of old India captains ; who now, exiled to a part of the ocean which they fhunned before, were forced to gather a precarious fubfiflence inflead of enjoying their former affluence, and were made the fport of florms which they had never felt in their cabbins. This ffroke, which may pafs for witty enough, confirms what I have before obferved of the original humour of fea-faring' men.
The officers, who could not yet relifh their fait provi*-fions, after the refrefliments of New Zeeland, had ordered their black dog, mentioned p. 135, to be killed, and fent the captain one half of it ; this day therefore we dined for the firit time on a leg of it roafled, which tailed fo exactly like mutton, that it was abfolutely undidinguifhable. In
our
our cold countries where animal food is fo much ufed, and where to be carnivorous perhaps lies in the nature of men, or is indifpenfibly neceflary to the prefervation of their health and flrcngth, it is flrange that there fhould exifl a Jcwifh avcrfion to dogs-flefh, when hogs, the mofl uncleanly of all animals arc eaten without fcruplc. Nature feems exprefsly to have intended them for this ufe, by making their offspring fo very numerous, and their encreafe fo quick and frequent. It may be objected, that the exalted degree of inflinct, which we obferve in our dogs, infpires us with great unwillingnefs to kill and eat them. But it is owing to the time we fpend on the education of dogs, that they acquire thofe eminent qualities which attach them fo much to us. The natural qualities of our dogs may receive a wonderful improvement, but education mufl give its afliflance, without which the human mind itfelf, though capable of an immenfe expan-fion, remains in a very contracted Hate. In New Zeeland, and (according to former accounts of voyages) in the tropical ifles of the South Sea, the dogs are the mofl flupid, dull animals imaginable, and do not feem to have the leafl advantage in point of fagacity over our fheep, which are commonly made the emblems of flllinefs. In the former country they are fed upon fifh, in the latter on vegetables, and both thefe diets may have ferved to alter their difpofition.    Education may perhaps  likewife graft new
H h 2 in-
inftincTs ; the New Zeeland dogs are fed on the remains of their mailers' meals ; they eat the bones of other dogs, and the puppies become true cannibals from their birth. We had a young New Zeeland puppy on board, which had certainly had no opportunity of tailing any thing but the mother's milk before we purchafed it; however it eagerly devoured a portion of the flefh and bones of the dog, on which we dined to-day ; while feveral others of the European breed taken on board at the Cape, turned from it without touching it. wednefd. 16,     We kept Handing to the fouth-eaflward till the i 6th at noon,  attended by numerous birds of the  petrel and albatrofs kind, together with now and then a fkua, or Port-Egmont hen.   Beds of fea-weeds frequently were feen floating on the fea, but we were now too much accuflomed to their appearance, to attempt to draw any conclufions from it.   The thermometer, which at our departure from New Zeeland, flood at 5 1 0 at eight o'clock in the morning, funk in proportion as we came to the fouthward to 4 8°, and fometimes 1047° at the fame time of day; but the temperature of the air upon  the whole was extremely variable, and the weather equally unfettled.   From thence it arofe, that we daily obferved rainbows, or parts of them about the horizon, efpccially in the morning.   The wind during this time was likewife very changeable, and veered round the compafs in a direction contrary to the courfe
of
of the fun, that is, from weft round by the north to- J^" wards eaft, and fo further on ; but it chiefly prevailed from the eafterly quarter, where we leaft expected it, fo that our fituation became tedious, and was made more irkfome by frequent fogs, rains, and heavy fwells. Having reached the latitude of 46" 1 j fouth, we directed our courfe to the north-caftward, a3 much as the wind would permit.
On the 23d, the weather being mild and the wind wtJnefd.*3. very moderate, captain Furneaux came on board, and dined with us.    He acquainted captain Cook, that all his people continued in good health, except one or two, who were infected with a naufcous difeafe, which is propagated by connections with the other fex.   This information gave us great uneafinefs, it being evident that the diftemper had already reached New Zeeland, fince our men mult have received it there.    Struck with the horrid confequences which this evil would entail on the New Zeelanders, we recapitulated the opportunities which thofe people had of catching the infection from  Europeans.     The firfl dif-coverer of this country, in 1642, Abel JanfTen Tafman,, had not the leaft amicable intercourfe with the inhabitants, and none of his people appear to have been afhore upon it.   Captain Cook, the next navigator, who vifited it in the Endeavour Bark,  1769 and 1 770, came from O-Tahcitcc and the Society Ifles, where feveral of his people had contracted venereal complaints.    However, as his paffage lafted
nearly
nearly two months, the furgcon reported, when they made the coaft, that no man had any iymptoms of the diftemper about him. Notwithstanding this alTurance captain Cook had the precaution, not to fuller any peifon to go on fhore, who had been under cure, and might be fufpecled to have fome latent remains of this infectious evil ; and to preclude the poiììbility of communicating it to a guiltlefs people, he never fufTcred the women to come on board. M. de Survillc, a French navigator, failed from Pondichery in the St. Jean Baptifte, paffed through the Straits of Malacca, touched at the Bafhee Ifles, went round Manila, faw land to the S. E. of New Britain, about the latitude of io+3 °5 and longitude 158° eaft, which he called Port Surville; touched at New Zeeland, and proceeded to Callao, in South America, in order to trade there : but being drowned in the landing, and all his letters of recommendation being loft with him, the fhip was detained near two years, and then fent to France, with all her merchandize. M. de Surville lay in Doubtlefs Bay, on the 9 th of December, 1 7 6 9, and faw the Endeavour Handing paft him, though captain Cook could not fee his veffd, which lay under the land. What flay M. de Surville made there, and upon what terms he was with the natives, I know not; but the diftance between this place and Qnecn Charlotte's Sound, and the want of intcrcourfc between the inhabitants of both ports, make it improbable, even fuppofing the complaint to have exifted
among
among his crew, that it could have reached fo far fouth.
The fame thing may be faid with regard to M. de Marion and captain Crozet, two French officers, whofe expedition, in 1772, I have mentioned page 112; for the communications which their crews had with the natives, was confined to the environs of the Bay of Iflands, in the northernmofl part of the northern ifle. Our two floops were the next in order, which touched at New Zeeland ; but we had not the lead reafon to fuppofe, that they carried any venereal complaint to that country. They had left the Cape of Good Hope, the laft place where it is poffible the failors might contract this diforder, fix months before they came to Queen Charlotte's Sound, five of which they had been at fea ; an interval in which a radical cure may be expected, unlcfs the difeafe be of too inveterate a nature. However, they were far from having any patients of this fort on board, and it is not likely that the poifon could lay dormant during that long interval of time, in a fet of men who had no other than fait provifions to live upon, and fpirituous liquors to drink, and who were expofed to wet and cold, and all the rigours of fouthern climates. We therefore concluded, that from all the concurring circumflanccs, the venereal difeafe was indigenous in New Zeeland, and not imported by Europeans ; and we have hhherto had no reafon to alter our opinion on this fubjecT. But if, in fpitc of appearances, our conclufions fhould prove erroneous, it is
another
another crime added to the fcore of civilized nations, which mull make their memory execrated by the unhappy people, whom they have poifoned.   Nothing can in the leaft atone for the injury they have done to focieiy, lince the price at which their libidinous enjoyments were pur-chafed, inftils another poifon into the mind, and deftroys the moral principles, while the difeafe corrupts and enervates the body, (fee pag. 212.) A race of men, who amidfl all their favage roughnefs, their fiery temper, and cruel cuftoms, are brave, generous, hofpitable, and incapable of deceiving, are juftly to be pitied, that love, the fource of their fwceteft and happieft feelings, is converted into the origin of the mod dreadful fcourge of life. July.        The wind Mill continued as changeable as before, till the beginning of July, having veered all round the compafs againft the fun, more than four times.   During this fpace albatroffes, petrels, and fea-weeds, were frequently feen ; rainbows alfo appeared almoft every morning, nay one night we obferved this phenomenon pretty flrong, caufed by the refracted light of the moon. Friday'^ On the* 9th of July we were nearly in the fame longi-
tude, where captain Cook, in the Endeavour, had reached 400 2 2/ fouth*, but our latitude was about two degrees and a quarter more foutherly.   Here we loft a young he-
* See Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. II, p. 282.
goat,
goat, which fell over board, and notwithflanding all pof- **** iiblc means were tried for his recovery, fuch as chafing, injecting clyfters of the fumes of tobacco, Sec. our endeavours proved entirely ineffectual.
July 17th, having pad: the longitude of 2270 eaft, and Saturdays being in about 400 fouth latitude, we began to run due north, after a very tedious courfe in fearch of the fouthern continent, the exigence of which, in the latitudes we had now paffed through, had been pofitively aliened.    The uncomfortable fcafon of the year, the many contrary winds, and the total want of interefting incidents united to make this run extremely tedious to us all, and the only point we had gained by it, was the certainty that no great land was fituated in the South Sea about the middle latitudes. In five days time our latitude being 31 0 fouth, wc began to lofe fght of albatroffes' and petrels, and  the thermometer  was   rifen to  61 I,   fo   that   wc   began to change our winter clothes for others, confiderably thinner, for the firfl time after leaving the Cape of Good Hope. The fpirits of all our people were much exhilarated in proportion as we approached to the tropics, and our failors diverted themfelves with a variety of plays every evening. The genial mildnefs of the air was fo welcome to us, after a long abfencc from it, that we could not help preferring the warm climates as the befl adapted for the abode of mankind.   We faw a tropic bird on the 25th in the Sunday**, afternoon, a fure fign that we were arrived into the tem-
Vol. I. I Ì pcrate
July. perate climates below 300 of latitude. The fetting fun illumined the clouds with the moil brilliant- tints of gold, which confirmed us in the opinion that the colours of the fky are no where fo rich and beautiful as between or near the tropics.
wedncfd.is. On the 28th we fpoke with the Adventure, and heard that they had buried their cook three days ago, and that about twenty of her people were very ill of the fcurvy. This was the more furprifing to us, as we had but very few people affected with any fymptoms of that difordcr, and only one who was dangeroufly fick. The next day captain Cook fent one of his feamen with a warrant to act as cook onboard the Adventure; and feveral of our gentlemen took the opportunity of going to dine with their friends. They found captain Furneaux and fome others very ill of a rheumatic complaint, and many of the people had fluxes. Their carpenter was remarkable ill of the fcurvy, and had great livid blotches on his legs. This difference between the falubrity of the two veffels probably arofe from the want of frefh air in the Adventure, our jloop being higher out of the water, fo that we could open more fcuftles in bad weather than our confort. Our people likewife made a greater confumption of four-krout and wort, and* particularly applied the grains of the latter to all blotches and fwelled parts, a regimen which had been omitted by thofe in the Adventure. On this occafion it is not improper to remark, that the fcurvy is more dangerous
and
and virulent in warm climates than in cold. As long as we had kept in high latitudes it did not make its appearance, or was at leaft, confined to a few individuals, who were naturally of a bad habit of body ; but wc had fcarcely had ten days of warm weather when one man died, and a number of others were affected with the worft fymptoms of this dreadful diftemper, on board the Adventure. It fhould therefore feem that the heat contributes to inflammation and putrefaction ; and its general effect, even among thofe who had no dangerous fcorbutic complaints, was a great degree of languor and debility.
On the 4th of Auguft a young bitch, of the terrier wedaeflb; breed, taken on board at the Cape of Good Hope, and covered by a fpanicl, brought ten young ones, one of which was dead. The New Zeeland dog, mentioned above, which devoured the bones of the roafted dog, now fell upon the dead puppy, and ate of it with a ravenous appetite. This is a proof how far education may go in producing and propagating new inftincts in animals. European dogs are never fed on the meat of their own fpecies, but rather feem to abhor it. The New Zeeland dogs, in all likelihood, arc trained up from their earlieft age to eat the remains of their mafter's meals ; they are therefore ufed to feed upon fifth, their own fpecies, and perhaps human flefh ; and what was only owing to habit at firft, may have become inftinct by length of time.   This was
I i 2 remarkable
remarkable in our canibal-dog, for he came on board fo young, that he could not have been weaned long enough to acquire a habit of devouring his own fpecies, and much lefs of eating human flefh j however, one of our feamen having cut his finger, held it out to the dog, who fell to greedily, licked it, and then began to bite into it.
On the 6th, in the afternoon, being in about 19;. deg. of fouth latitude, we got the eafterly trade-wind, which fet in frefh after feveral calms, attended with heavy fhowcrs of rain. The fun being at this time flill in the oppofite hemifphere, was probably the caufe of our meeting with this wind fo much later than ufual, the tropics being generally reckoned its limits. Agreeable to the obfervation which v/e now made, we had found the trade-wind, in Auguft 1772, at Madeira, though that ifland is fituated in 330 of north latitude. But the moft remarkable occurence in our run was the nature of the winds previous to our obtaining the trade-wind. We had expected that, by going in a middle latitude between 50 and 40 deg. fouth, wc fhould meet with regular wefterly winds, which are common in our feas during the winter months ; inftead of this we found them veering round the compafs in two or three days time, never fettling in any other than the eaft-ern quarv*t4 and fometimes blowing with great violence. Thus the name of Pacific Ocean, which has formerly been given to the whole South Sea, is, in my opinion, applicable
ble only to a part of it between the tropics, where the A^J;r. winds are Heady and uniform, the weather in general fair and mild, and the fea not fo much agitated as in higher latitudes.
Albecorcs, bonitos, and dolphins gave chace to many fhoals of flying-fidi, in the fame manner as we had obferved them in the Atlantic; while feveral large blackbirds, with long wings and forked tails, which are commonly called men of war (pelccanus aquilus, Linn.) foared at a vafl height in the air, and fometimes defcending into a. lower region, viewed a fifh fwimming under them, and darted down with amazing velocity, never failing to flrike the fifh with their bill. It is a well known fact, that gan-nets, which are birds of the fame genus in the Englifli feas, catch fifh in a fimilar manner. The fifhermen on the coafl frequently fix a pilchard or herring on the point of a knife fattened to a floating board, and the bird darting down upon it transfixes itfelf on the knife.
On the iith, in the morning, we difcovered a low ifland to the fouth ward of us, which feemed about four miles long, and about fix miles dittant. It appeared to be zdmoft level with the fea, only fome groups of trees rofe above the horizon, and among them a few cocoa-nut palms out-topped the red. To people in our fituation, ex-haufled with a tedious paffage, the bare fight of land was Sufficient to give fome confolation, though we could not
expect
hvll\' expeci; to reap any benefit from its productions; and therefore this ifland, though diverted of every thing flrik-ingly beautiful, yet plcafed the eye by the fimplicity of its form. Our thermometer was now conftantly between 7 o and 80 degrees in the morning ; but the heat was far from being troublcfome, as the fair weather was accompanied by a ilrong plcafant trade-wind, and our awnings were fpread over the quarter-deck. This ifland, which was called Resolution Ifland, feems to have been feen by M. dc Bougainville. Its latitude is 179 24 fouth, and its longitude 141 0 39' weft from Greenwich. Our obferva-tion at noon was 1 70 17' fouth, our courfe being nearly eaft. In the evening, at half paft fix o'clock, we faw another ifland of the fame nature as the preceding, about four leagues diftant, which was named Doubtful Ifland. It being after fun-fet, wc flood to the northward till wc
wday 12. nad Puffed by it. The next morning, before day-break, we were alarmed by the fudden appearance of breakers within half a mile a-head of us. We changed our courfe inftantly, apprized our confort of the danger by proper fignals, and then flood along the reef. As foon as it was light we diftinguifhed an iftand of a circular form, including a large bafon or lagoon of fea-water; the northern mores were covered with trees and palms in various cluftcrs, which had a very elegant appearance ; but all the reft was a narrow ledge of rocks, over which the furf beat
with
with great violence ; within it the lagoon was fhallow AwswIti near us, but deeper under the wooded part ; a difference which could cafily be diftinguifhed by the whiter or the bluer colour of the water. Captain Cook gave this ifle the name of Furneaux Ifland; it is fituated in 170 5 fouth latitude, and 1430 1 6' weft longitude. Standing along this reef we faw a canoe failing near the northern part of the ifle, and by the help of glalTes we obferved fix or feven men in it, one of which was placed at the Hern fleering with a.paddle. They did not feem to have embarked in order to reconnoitre us, as they did not approach the fouthern reef, but kept clofe in with the wooded part of the ifland. We proceeded all day with a favourable breeze and fair weather till fuh-fet ; but the navigation between thefe low iflands and reefs being extremely dangerous, becaufe they can only be feen at fhort diftances, we were obliged to bring to at night in order to avoid meeting with them unawares. Early the next morning we left Friday^, another ifland of this kind on our (larboard quarter, which was called Adventure Ifland ; it lies in 170 4'fouth latitude, and 1 440 3o/ weft longitude. We fpoke with the Adventure about the fame time, and were told fhe had above thirty men on the fick lift, mofl of them ill of the fcurvy. Our floop ftill kept rather free of this diftemper, and every precaution was taken to preferve our crew in health by a plentiful ufe of four-krout, by airing the
ham mock a
hammocks every day, and frequently fmoaking the fhip with gunpowder and vinegar.
In the afternoon wc faw an ifland right a-head, confiding of feveral clumps of trees, united by one reef, and from its fituation we judged it was the fame which Captain Cook named Chain Iiland in his former voyage*. To prevent lofing our time by bringing the Hoops to at night, we hoifled a boat out, and fent it to fail ahead of our veffels, with a lighr, and to make fignals in cafe of danger. The South Sea between the tropics contains many low iflands, fingularly confhrucled, which are level with the fea in moft places, and at the utmofl a yard or two above it. They have frequently a circular form, including a lagoon or bafon of fea-water in their centre, and the depth of the fea all round them is unfathomable, the rocks rifing perpendicularly from the bottom. Their productions mufl be few, and cocoa nut-trees are probably the mofl ufeful which they contain ; but notwithflanding this circumflance and their fmall fize, many of them arc inhabited. The queflion how fuch little fpots came to be peopled is not cafily to be anfwered ; but it is not eafier to determine how the higher iflands in the South Sea have acquired their inhabitants. Commodore (now Admiral) Byron, and Captain Wallis, who fent fome of their people on fhore upon thefe low iQands, found their inhabitants flay and jealous of
* See Hawkefworth, vol, II. p. 77.
ftrangers 5
Grangers ; a difpofition which is perhaps owing to the difficulty of preferving their exiftence from the fcanty provisions on their narrow circle, and which may be heightened by the confcioufnefs that their fmall numbers render them liable to opprcffion. The language of thefe people, and their cuftoms, are therefore ftill unknown, and thefe are the only circumftances from which the origin of nations, who have no records among them, can be traced.
Early on the 15 th of Auguft we faw a high peak with a flattifh fummit, firfl: difcovered by Captain Wallis, who called it Ofnabruck Ifland, and afterwards by M. de Bougainville, in whofe chart it has the names of Pic de la Boudeufe, or le Boudoir. The mountain appeared of a confiderable height, and its top was broken or excavated perfectly like the crater of a volcano, which feemed evidently to have exifted here. The ifland was nearly of a circular form, and the mountain rofe fteep 10 a conical fhape from all parts of the fea-fhore, there being but little level land round its foot. The whole mountain was green, and the bottom or low land was covered with trees. While we eagerly feafled our eyes with this pleafing profpect, one of our officers, who had formerly been fent clofe in fhore there by Captain Wallis, told us that the trees were of the kind which bear the bread-fruit, fo much extolled in the voyages of Anfon, Byron, Wallis, and Cook. He acquainted us at the fame time, that the natives were of the
Vol. L K k fame
race as thofe who dwell on O Taheitee and the Society Ifles,. of which the firfl is within half a day's fail ; and that they give the name of Madtea * to their own ifland.   We never came nearer than four leagues to it, which was probably the reafon that no canoes came of! to vifit us. Having very little wind we hoifled a boat out, which went on board the Adventure, and brought Captain Furneaux to dine with us.   We had the pleafure to learn from him, that the flux among his crew was ccafed, and that none of his people were in any imminent danger from the fcurvy ; we hoped therefore, from our vicinity to  O-Taheitee,  to have a fpeedy opportunity of refloring their health by a wholefome vegetable diet.
In the evening, about fun-fet,  we plainly faw the mountains of that definable ifland, lying before us, half emerging from the gilded clouds on the horizon. Every man on board, except one or two who were not able to walk, haflened eagerly to the forecaftle to feafl their eyes on an object, of which they were taught to form the high-eft expectations, both in refpect of the abundance of re-freflimcnts, and of the kind and generous temper of the natives, whofe character has plcafed all the navigators who have vifited them.    The firfl difcoverer was probably a Spaniard, Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, who failed from Lima in Peru, on the 21ft of December 1 60s'.   He made
* See Hawkefworthj vol. II. p. 78. Maitea,
an
an ifland on the i oth of February 1606, calling it la Sagittaria *, which, from all the concurring circumflances, feems to have been O-Taheitee.   He found no harbours on the fouth part, where he fell in with it ; but the people he fent albore were treated with the greated marks of friendiTiip and kindnefs.   Captain Wallis next found this ifland on the i 8 th of June 1767, and called it George the Third's Ifland.   Some unhappy mifundcrftanding arifmg between him and the natives at firfl, he fired upon them, killed about fifteen, and wounded a great number ; but thefe good tempered people, forgetting the great lofs they had fuflained, and the wounds their brethren had received, made peace with him foon after, and furnifhed him with a profufion of. refreshments, confining of feveral roots, many forts of rich fruit, fowls, and hogs,    M, de Bougainville arrived in the eaflern part on the 2d of April 1 7 6 8, or about nine months and a half after the departure of Captain Wallis, and difcovered the true indigenous name of this ifland ; fcnfible of the amiable character of the inhabitants, heftaid ten days among them, giving and receiving frequent marks of friendfhip and regard.    Captain Cook, in the Endeavour, arriving here in April 1769, to observe the tranfn of Venus,   circumnavigated  the whole ifland in a boat; and, during a flay of three months, had
* Sec an Historical Collection of the feveral Voyages and Difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, by Alexander Dalrymple, Efq. vol. I. p. 109 to 117.
Kk 2 daily
vovsV.   ^a^y opportunities of confirming tbe obfervations already made upon this fubjecl:.
We flood on towards this ifland all night, and the fa* vourable ideas which were raifed by the accounts of former navigators, made us pafs fome happy hours in expectation of the morning. We refolved to forget our fatigues and the inclemencies of fouthern climates ; the clouds which had hitherto hung lowering upon our brows were difperf-ed j the loathed images of difeafe and the terrors of deatli were fled, and all our cares at reft.
.....■ Somno pofiti fub nocte filenti
"Lenibant curas} et corda oblita laborum, Virgil.
C II A P.
» '773
CHAP. vni.
Anchorage in Q-Aitepeha harbour, on the'lejfer peninfula of Q-Taheitee* —Account of our Jiay there.—Removal to Matavai Bay%
Devenere locos Isetos et amcena vireta
Fortunatorum nemorum, fedefque beatas.
Largio'r hic campos aether, et lumine veftit
Purpureo- Virg-IL,
TT was one of thofe beautiful mornings which the poets Monday A of all nations have attempted to defcribe, when we faw the ifle of OTaheite, within two miles before us. The caff-wind which had carried us fo far, was entirely vanifhed, and a faint breeze only wTafted a delicious perfume from the land, and curled the furface of the fea.  The mountains, clothed with forefls, rofe majeflic in various fpiry forms, on which we already perceived the light of the rifing fun r nearer to the eye a lower range of hills, eafier of afcent, appeared, wooded like the former, and coloured with feveral pleafing hues of green, foberly mixed with autumnal browns.    At their foot lay the plain, crowned with its fertile bread-fruit  trees,   over which rofe innumerable palms, the princes of the grove.    Here every thing feemed as yet afleep, the morning fcarce dawned, and a peaceful fhade Hill reflcd on the landfcape.   We difecrned however, a number of houfes among the trees, and many canoes
hauled
vcust hauled up along the fandy beaches. About half a mile from the fhore a ledge of rocks level with the watei% extended parallel to the land, on which the furf broke, leaving a fmooth and fecure harbour within. The fun beginning to illuminate the plain, its inhabitants arofe* and enlivened the fcene. Having perceived the large veffels on their coafl, feveral of them haflened to the beach, launched their canoes, and paddled towards us, who were highly delighted in watching all their occupations.
The canoes foon paffed through the openings in the reef, and one of them approached within hale.   In it were two men almofl naked, with a kind of turban on the head, and a falli round their waifl.    They waved a large green leaf, and accofled us with the repeated exclamation of tayo * / which even without the help of vocabularies, we could eafily tranflate into the expreflion of proffered friendflrip0 The canoe now came under our flern, and we let down a prefent of beads, nails, and medals to the men.   In return, they handed up to us a green flem of a piantane, which was their fymbol of peace, with a delire that it might be fixed'in a confpicuous part of the vcffeh   It was accordingly fluck up in the main fhrouds, upon which our new friends immediately returned towards the land. In a fhort time we faw great crouds of people on the fea-fliore gazing at us, while numbers in confcquencc of this
* See Bougainville's Voyage, Englifh Edition, p. ?AJ>
treaty
treaty of peace, which was now firmly eftablifhed, launched their canoes, and loaded them with various productions of their country.   In lefs than an hour we were furrounded by an hundred canoes, each of which carried one, two, three, and fometimes four perfons, who placed a perfect confidence in us, and had no arms whatfoever.   The weK come found of tayo refounded on all fides, and we returned it with a degree of heart-felt pleafure, on this fa-' vourable change of our fituation.    Coco nuts, and plan-tanes in great quantity, bread-fruit and feveral other vegetables, befides fome frefh fifli were offered to us, and eagerly exchanged for tranfparent beads, and fmall nails. Pieces of cloth, fifh-hooks, hatchets of Rone, and a number of tools, were likewife brought for fale and readily difpofed of ; and many canoes kept plying between us and the fhore, exhibiting a picture of a new kind of fair.   I immediately began to trade for natural productions through the cabin-windows, and in half an hour had got together two or three fpecies of unknown birds, and a great number of new fifhes, whofe colours while alive were exquifitely beautiful.   I therefore employed the morning in fketching their outlines, and laying on the vivid hues, before they difappeared in the dying objects.
The people around us had mild features, and a pleafing countenance ; ihey were about our fize, of a pale mahogany brown, had fine black hair and eyes, and wore a piece of cloth
round
1771- Tound their middle of their own manufacture, and another wrapped about the head in various picturcfque fhapes like a turban. Among them were feveral females, pretty enough to attract the attention of Europeans, who had not feen their own country-women for twelve long months pad. Thefe wore a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, through which they had paffed the head, fo that one part of the garment hung down behind, and the other before, to the knees ; a fine white cloth like a muflin, was paffed over this fn various elegant turns round the body, a little below the breafl, forming a kind of tunic, of which one turn fometimes fell gracefully acrofs the fhoulder. If this drefs had not entirely that perfect form, fo juftly admired in the draperies of the ancient Greek flames, it was however infinitely fuperior to our expectations, and much more advantageous to the human figure, than any modern fafhion we had hitherto feen. Both fexes were adorned, or rather disfigured, by thofe lingular black flains, occafioned by puncturing the fkin, and rubbing a black colour into the wounds, which are mentioned by former voyagers. They were particulaily vifible on the loins of the common men, who went almoft naked, and exhibited a proof how little the ideas of ornament of different nations agree, and yet how generally they all have adopted fuch aids to their perfonal perfection. It was not long before fome of thefe good people came aboard.   That peculiar gentienefs of
difpofition
difpofition, which is their general characteriflic, immediately manifefted itfelf in all their looks and actions, and gave full employment to thofe, who made the human heart their fludy. They expreffed feveral marks of affection in their countenance, took hold of our hands, leaned on our fhoulder, or embraced us. They admired the white-nefs of our bodies, and frequently puflied afide our clothes from the breafl, as if to convince themfelves that we were made like them.
Many of them feeing us defirous of learning their language, by afking the names of various familiar objects, or repeating fuch as wc found in the vocabularies of former voyagers, took great pains to teach us, and were much delighted when wc could catch the jult pronunciation of a word. For my own part, no language feemed eaficr to acquire than this j every harm and fibilant con fon ant being banifhed from it, and almofl every word ending in a vowel. The only rcquifite, was a nice ear to diflinguifh the numerous modification of their vowels, which mufl naturally occur in a language confined to few confonants, and which, once rightly underflood, give a great degree of delicacy to converfation. Amongtt feveral other obfervations, wc immediately found that the O or E with which the greatefl part of the names and words in lieutenant Cook's firfl voyage, begin, is nothing elfe than the article, whicli many eaftern languages affix to the greater part of their
Vol. I. L 1 fub-
fubflantives. In confequence of this remark, I fhall always in the fequel either omit this prefix, or feparate it from the word itfelf by a hyphen : and I cannot help taking notice that M. de Bougainville has been fortunate enough to catch the name of the iiland without the additional O, and exprelTed it as well as the nature of the French language will permit, by Taiti, which, with the addition of a flight afpirate, we pronounce Taheitee, or Tahitee.
Seeing an opening in the reef before us, which was the entrance to the harbour of Whai-Urua, in the lefTer penin-fula of O-Taheitee, we fent a boat to found in it, which found convenient anchorage. The boat afterwards proceeded to the fhore, where a croud of the natives gathered round it, and we heard the fqueaking of pigs, which was at this time a more welcome found to us, than the mufic of the mofl: brilliant performer. Our people, however, were not fo fortunate as to purchafe any of them, all their offers being conftantly refufed, under the pretext that thefe v animals belonged to the aree, or king.
A canoe now came alongfide, of a fomewhat larger fize than the reft, and brought a handfome man, above fix feet high, and three women, who all came on board. The man who immediately informed us, that his name was O-Tai, feemed to be a perfon of fome confequence in this part of the ifland, and we fuppofed he belonged to that
clafs
chfs of vaffals, or freeholders, who are called Manahounas in the firfl voyage of captain Cook.   He came on the quarter-deck, to all appearance thinking, that a place where our chiefs were flationed, befl became him.   He was remarkable fairer than any of the natives we had yet feen, and rcfemblcd in colour the Wed Indian Mcflizos.    His features were really handfome and regular ; he had a high forehead, arched eyebrows, large black eyes, fparkling with expref-fion, and a well-proportioned nofe; there was fomething remarkably fwcet and engaging about his mouth ; the lips were prominent, but not difagreeably large ; and his beard was black, and finely frizzled ; his hair was of a jetty colour, and fell in flrong curls down his neck ; but feeing that we all had ours queued, he made ufe of a black filk neckcloth, which Mr. Gierke made him a prefent of, to imitate our fafhion.    The body was in general well proportioned, though fomewhat too lufly, and his feet were rather too large to harmonize perfectly with the refi. By the help of vocabularies we afked this man feveral quef-tions.   One of the firfl was, whether Tootahàh was well ? to this wc were anfwered, that he was dead, being killed by the men of Tiarraboo, or the fmaller peninfula, and that O-Aheatua was e~aree, or the king of the latter j which was confirmed by all the other natives.   Of his three female companions, one was his wife, arid the other two his fillers : the latter took great plcafure in teaching us to
L 1 2 call
Au?Vt ca^ tkem °y tncir names, which were both fufliciently harmonious, one was called Maroya, and the other Marora'i. They were dill fairer than O-Tai, but their dature was fmall in companion to his, being at lead nine or ten inches lefs. The lad mentioned was a graceful figure, with the mod delicate and beautiful contours, in the hands and all above the zone. Their face was round, and their features far from being fo regular as thofe of the brother ; but an ineffable fmile fat on their countenances. They feemed never to have been aboard of a fhip before, fo much were they druck with admiration on beholding its variety of objects. They did not content themfelves with looking around the deck, but defcended into the officers cabins, whither a gentleman conducted them, and curioudy era-mined every part. Marora'i took a particular fancy to a pair of fheets which fhe faw fprcad on one of the beds, and made a number of fruitlefs attempts to obtain them from her conductor. He propofed a fpecial favour as the condition ; fhe hefitated fome time, and at lad with feem-ing reluctance confented ; but when the victim was jud led to the altar of Hymen, the fhip druck violently on the reef, and interrupted the folemnity. The affrighted lover, more fenfible of the danger than his fair midrefs, dew in hade upon deck, whither all the red of our people crowded from their feveral occupations. The tide, during a perfect calm, had driven us by infenfible degrees towards the reef
of
of rocks ; and actually fet us upon it, before we could come into the entrance of the harbour, which was as it were within our reach.    Repeated fhocks made our fituation every moment more terrifying j however, providentially there was no fwell which broke with any violence on the rocks, and the fea breeze, which muff have brought on abfolute deflruction to us, did not come in all day. The officers, and all the paffengers, exerted themfelves indifcri-minately on this occafion, hoifted out the launch, and afterwards by heaving upon an anchor, which had been carried out to a little diftance, fucceeded in bringing the veffel afloat.   The natives on board, feeing us work fo hard, affirled us in manning the capflan, hauling in ropes, and performing all forts of labour.   If they had had the leaft fpark of a treacherous difpofition, they could not have found a better opportunity of diftrclling us ; but they approved themfelves good-natured, and friendly in this, as on all other occafions.   The heat during this violent exertion of our flrength was immenfe ; the thermometer being upwards of ninety degrees in the iliade, and the fun blazing in a perfectly clear fky.   The Adventure was clofe to us, and efcaped fharing the fame diflreffes, by dropping an anchor in time.    It was another fortunate circumftance, that the reef fhelved in this place fo as to admit of anchorage, which is indeed rarely the cafe, the coral rock being perpendicular in mofl parts.   It was about three o'clock
when
AT77>-     when we were afloat again, after working for about an hour and a half.   We now took fome refreshments in a hurry, and as our fituation was tiill extremely precarious, in cafe an ealìerly wind had come on, we manned the boats of both lloops, and were towed oil to fea, where we felt a land-breeze gently fwelling our fails, about five o'clock. As foon as we were fure of it, we difpatched the boats to the afliftancc of the Adventure ; but flic had already flipped her cables, in order to take advantage of the favourable wind, and followed us.   We flood off and on all night, and faw the dangerous reefs illuminated by a number of fires, by the light of which the natives were fifliing. One of the officers retiring to refi, found his bed deprived of the fliects, which in all probability the fair Marora'i had taken care of, when forfaken by her lover ; though fire mull have managed this little concern with confiderable ingenuity, as flic had appeared on deck before any fufpicion had fallen upon her. Tuefibyi7.       The next morning we renamed our courfe towards the fhore, and flood in along the north part of the Icfler penin-fula.    We were in a fhort time furrounded, as the day before, by the natives, who in a great number of canoes brought its abundance of vegetable, but no animal food, and whofe clamours were fometimes loud enough to flun our cars.   Thefe canoes very frequently ovcrfet, but the natives were not much difcompofed by fuch accidents, as
both
both fexes were expert fivimmcrs, and re-eftabli(hed them- aVoÌ'i felvcs in a moment, Seeing that I enquired for plants, and other natural cur ioti ties, they brought off feveral, though fometimes only the leaves without the flowers, and vice verfa ; however, among them wc faw the common fpecies of black night-fhacle, and a beautiful erytkrina or coral-flower ; I alfo collected by thefe means many fhells, coralines, birds, &c.
About eleven o'clock we anchored in a little harbour called O Aitepeha, on the north-eaft end of the fouthern or leffcr peninfula of Tahcitce, named Tiarraboo. Here the concourfc of natives flill increafed, and wc faw their canoes coming towards us from all parts.    They were eager to obtain our beads, nails, and knives, for which an immenfc quantity of their cloth, mats, bankets, and various tools, as well as abundance of coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas were exchanged.    Many of them came on deck, and took the opportunity of conveying away a number of trifles ; nay, fome went fo far as privately to throw over board the coco-nuts, which we had already purcbaied, to their comrades, who immediately picked them up, and fold them to our people again.    To pievent our being i u-pofed upon for the future in this manner, the thieves were turned out of the vcffcl, and punifhed with a whip, which they bore very patiently.
The
The heat was as great as it had been the day before, the thermometer Handing at 900 in the Iliade, when the fky was covered with clouds ; the wind likewife dying away again at noon to a perfect calm. Notwithflanding the wade of fluids which the weather occafioned, we could not fay that we found the climate alTected us too much, or was very difagreeable. On the contrary, allowing for the violent exercife we had undergone at the flriking of the fhip, we found ourfelves more refrefhed by the bare proximity of the fhore, than we could have expected. The breadfruit and yams proved a luxurious and mofl welcome fub-flitute for worm-eaten bifcuit ; while plantanes, and a fruit of the Chape of an apple, called e-vee by the natives, furnifhed out a delicious defert. Our only remaining wifh, with regard to eatables, was to be able to purchafe fome hogs and fowls, which might fupply the place of fait beef.
In the afternoon the captains, accompanied by feveral gentlemen, went afhorc the firfl time, in order to vifit O-Ahcatua, whom all the natives thereabouts acknowledged as aree, or king. Numbers of canoes in the mean while furrounded us, carrying on a brifk trade with vegetables^ but chiefly with great quantities of the cloth made in the ifland. The decks were likewife crouded with natives, among whom were feveral women who yielded without difficulty to the ardent follicitations of our failors.
Borne
Some of the females who came on board for this purpofe, aSSSmu feemed not to be above nine or ten years old, and had not the lead marks of puberty. So early an acquaintance with the world feems to argue an uncommon degree of volup-tuoufnefs, and cannot fail of affecting the nation in general. The effect, which was immediately obvious to me, was the low dature of the common clafs of people, to which all thefe proditutes belonged. Among this whole order we faw few perfons above the middle fize, and many below it ; an obfervation which confirms what M. de Buffon has very judicioufiy faid on the fubject of early connections of the fcxes, (fee his Hidoire Naturellc.) Their features were very irregular, and in general very ordinary, except the eyes, which were always large and full of vivacity j but a natural fmile, and a condant endeavour to pleafe, had fo well replaced the want of beauty, that our failors were perfectly captivated, and carelcfsly difpofed of their fhirts and cloaths to gratify their miftrefles. The fimplicity of a drefs which expofed to view a well proportioned bofom and delicate hands, might alfo contribute to fan their amorous fire ; and the view of feveral of thefe nymphs fwimming nimbly all round the floop, fuch as nature had formed them, was perhaps more than fufficicnt entirely to fubvert the little reafon which a mariner might have left to govern his pafììons. A trifling circumftance had given caufe to their taking the water. One of the .officers on the Vol. I. M m quarter-
quarter-deck intended to drop a bead into a canoe for a little boy about fix years old j by accident it milled the boat and fell into the fea ; but the child immediately leaped overboard, and diving after it brought it up again. To reward his performance we dropped fome more beads to him, which fo tempted a number of men and women, that they amufed us with amazing feats of agility in the water, and not only fetched up feveral beads fcattered at once, but likewife large nails, which, on account of their weight, defcended quickly to a confiderable depth. Some of them continued a long while under water, and the velocity with which we faw them go down, the water being perfectly clear, was very furprifing. The frequent ablutions of thefe people, already mentioned in Captain Cook's former voyage, feem to make fwimming familiar to them from their earlier! childhood ; and indeed their eafy pofition in the water, and the pliancy of their limbs, gave us reafon to look on them almoft as amphibious creatures. They continued this fport, and their other occupations about us, till fun-fct, when they all withdrew by degrees to the ih ore.
In the evening the captains with their company returned on board, without having feen the king, who, perhaps miftrufting their intentions, had fent word, that he intended to vifit us the next day. They had taken a walk along the fhore to the eaftward, attended by a great croud of
the
the natives, who infmed on carrying them on their mould- AvoVtr, ers over a fine brook.   After they had paiTed it, the natives left them, and they proceeded accompanied by one man, who guided  them to an uncultivated projecting point, where different kinds of plants grew in wild luxuriance among feveral forts of fhrubs.    On coming out of the fhrubbery they faw a building of flones, in form of the fruflum of a pyramid ; the  bafe might meafure about twenty yards in front, and the whole confifled of feveral terraces or fleps above each other, which were ruinous and overgrown with graffes and fhrubs, cfpecially on the back or inland part.   This the native faid was a burying-place and place of worfhip, marai, and diflinguifhed it by the name of marai no-Aheatua, the burying-place of Aheatua, the prefent king of Tiarroboo.   Around it were placed perpendicularly, or nearly fo, fifteen flender pieces of wood, fome about eighteen feet long, in which fix or eight diminutive human figures of a rude unnatural fhape were carved, flanding above each other, male or female promifcuoufly, yet fo that the uppermofl was always a male.   All thefe figures faced the fea, and perfectly refembled fome which are carved on the flerns of their canoes, and which they call e-tee.    Beyond the morai they faw a kind of thatch erected on four polls, before which a lattice of flicks was placed in the ground, hung with bananas and cocoa-nuts no ? Eatua, " for the Divinity." They fit down to refi them-
M m 2 felvca
26S A   VOYAGE  ROUND  THE" WORLD,
uTulV. felves under the Iliade of this roof, and their guide feeing; them a good deal exhaufted, took feveral of the bananas and offered them, with the afTurance that they were mda meliteli, " good eating," They accepted them after this recommendation, and finding them really as delicious as they had been defcribed, made no fcruplc to fcaft with the gods. As the evening was now advancing, they returned to the fea-fhorc, well plcafed with their reception among thefe good-natured people, and brought on board a few plants, which we foon recognized as the productions common to tropical countries, wednefd. i8. We contemplated the fcenery before us early the next morning, when its beauties were mofl engaging. The harbour in which we lay was very fmall, and would not have admitted many more vcfTels befides our own. The water in it was as fmooth as the finefl mirrour, and the fea broke with a fnowy foam around us upon the outer reef* The plain at the foot of the hills was very narrow in this place, but always conveyed the pleafing ideas of fertility, plenty, and happinefs. Jufl over againft us it ran up between the hills into a long narrow valley, rich in plantations, interfperfed with the houfes of the natives. The Hopes of the hills, covered with woods, crofTed each other on both fides, varioufly tinted according to their diflances ; and beyond them, over the cleft of the valley, we faw the interior mountains mattered into various peaks and fpires,
among
among which was one remarkable pinnacle, whofe fummit was frightfully bent to one fide, and feemed to threaten its downfall every moment. The fcrenity of the fky, the genial warmth of the air, and the beauty of the land-fcape, united to exhilarate our fpirits.
The launches of both fhips were fent to o Whal-urua, to fetch the anchors which we had left there when we flruck on the reef. A party of marines and feamen were ordered on fhore at the fame time, to carry on a trade for provi-fionSj and to fill our empty cafks with frefh water. For this purpofe they occupied the remains of an abandoned fhed or cottage on the beach, which at once gave them fhelter from the fun, and fecured them againft the thievifh difpofition of the people. Before captain Cook went afiiore he received a vifit from a man of fome note, called o-Poòe, who brought his two fons on board. They prefentcd the captain with fome of their cloth and fome little trifles, and in return they received knives, nails, beads, and a fliirr, in which having dreffed themfelves, they accompanied us to the fhore.
Our firfl care was to leave the dry fandy beach, which could afford us no difcoveries in our fcience, and to examine the plantations, which from the fhips had an enchanting appearance, notwithflanding the brownifh eaft which the time of the year had given. We found them indeed to anfwer the expectations  we had formed of a
country
country defcribed as an elyfium by M. de Bougainville, (fee the Englilli edition, p. 22 8.) We entered a grove of bread-trees, on moft of which we faw no fruit at this feafon of winter, and followed a neat but narrow path, which led to different habitations, half hid under various bufhes. Tall coco-palms nodded to each other, and rofe over the refi of the trees ; the bananas difplayed their beautiful large leaves, and now and then one of them ftill appeared loaded with its cluttering fruit. A fort of fhady trees, covered with a dark-green foliage, bore golden apples, which re-fembled the anana in juicinefs and flavour. Betwixt thefe the intermediate fpace was filled with young mulberry-trees (mortis papyrifera.) of which the bark is employed by the natives in the manufacture of their cloth"; with feveral fpecies of arum or eddies, with yams, fugar-cancsj and other ufeful plants.
We found the cottages of the natives fcattered at fhort diflances, in the (hade of fruit-trees, and furrounded by various odoriferous fhrubs, fuch as the gardenia, guettarda, and calophyllum. The neat fimplicity of their flructurc gave us no lefs pleafure than the artlefs beauty of the grove which encompaffed them. The pandang* or palm-nut tree had given its long prickly leaves to thatch the
* Jtbredaclylif. Char. Gen. Novor. Forfler. London 1776. Br omelìa fyl-vejris. Linn. Fior, Zeyl. Keura. Forfkal. Flora Arab, Pancfonus. Rumph. Amboin.
roofs
roofs of the buildings, and thefe were fupported by a few A£J«j, pillars made of the bread-tree, which is thus ufeful in more refpeéls than one. As a roof is fufhcient to flicker the natives from rains and nightly dews, and as the climate of this ifland is pei haps one of the happiefl in the world, the houfes feldom have any walls, but are open on all fides. We faw, however, a few dwellings conflructed for greater privacy, which were entirely enclofed in walls of reeds, connected together by tranfverfc pieces of wood, fo as to give us the idea of large bird-cages. In thefe there was commonly a hole left for the entrance, which could be clofed up with a board. Before every hut, on the green turf or on dry grafs, we obferved groups of inhabitants lying down or fitting in the eaflern flile, and palling their happy hours away in converfation or repofe. Some of them got up at our approach, and joined the croud that followed us ; but great numbers, efpecially thofe of a mature age, remained in their attitude, and only-pronounced a kind tayo as we paffed by them, Our attendant croud feeing us gather plants, were very ready to pluck and offer the fame forts to us, which they found attracted our notice. Indeed a variety of wild fpecies fprung up amidfl the plantations, in that beautiful diforder of nature, which is fo truly admirable when checked by the hand of induflry, and infinitely furpaffes the trimnefV of regular gardens.   Among them we found feveral fpecies
Of
72 A  VOYAGE   ROUND   THE WOR1D.
JJtSt °^ g™ffcs> which though thinner than in our northern countries, yet by growing always In the iliade, looked frefh and formed a foft bed of verdure. The foil was by their means kept fufEciently moifl to give nourifhment to the trees, and both were in a thriving fiate, owing to the reciprocal affiflancc which they gave each other. Various little birds dwelt in the iliade of the bread-fruit and other trees, and had a very agreeable note, though common report among Europeans has denied the powers of harmony (I know not on what grounds) to the birds of warm climates. The heads of the -talleri coco-trees were the ufual refidencc of a kind of very fmall perroqucts of a beautiful fapphirine blue, while another fort of a grecnifh colour, with a few red fpots, were more common among the bananas, and appeared frequently tame in the houfes of the natives, who feemed to value them for their red feathers. A king's fi flier, of a dark-green, with a collar of the fame hue round his white throat, a large cuckoo, and feveral forts of pigeons or doves, were frequently feen hopping from branch to brandi, and a bluifh heron gravely flalk-ed along the fea fitfé, picking up fhell-fifh and worms. A fine brook, rolling over a bed of pebbles, came down a narrow valley, and fupplied our watcrers at its difcharge into the fea. Wc followed its flream for a little while till we were met by a great croud of natives at the heels of ihrce men, dreffed in various pieces of their red and yellow
cloth,
cloth, and provided with elegant turbans of the fame. Each of them had a long flick or wand in his hand, and one of them was accompanied by a woman, whom upon enquiry we found to be his wife. We demanded what their appearance meant, and were anfwered they were the Te-apoo-nee j but when they obferved we did not underffand enough of their language to comprehend this term, they added that they were Tata-no-t'Eatooa, men belonging to the divinity, and to the Marai, or burying-place ; I fuppofe we might call them priefls. We flopped with them fome time, but as we did not fee that any religious, or other ceremony was performed, we returned to the beach. About noon captain Gook re-imbarked with us, and with the two fons of O Poe mentioned page 269, without having feen Ahea-tua, who for reafons unknown to us, flill refufed to admit us to his prefence.
The two young fellows fat down to dinner with us, and partook of the vegetables, but did not touch our fait provifions. After dinner, one of them took an opportunity of flealing a knife and a pewter fpoon, not contented with a number of prefents which he had received from the captain, without having made any return on his part, and which ought to have prevented him from infringing the laws of hofpitality. The theft being difcovered, he was kicked from the deck, jumped overboard, and fwam to the next canoe, where he feated himfelf, perhaps in defiance
Vol. I. N n of
of our power. Captain Cook fired a mufket over his head,, upon which he took to the water again, and overfet the canoe. A fecond mufket was levelled at him, but he dived when he faw the flafli, and did the fame when the third was difcharged. Captain Cook now manned his boat, and went to take the canoe, under which the man took fhelter ; but he foon abandoned it, and fvvam to a double canoe near the firfl, which was accordingly purfued. This canoe however got albore through the furf, and the natives on the beach took up flones, which they levelled at our boat's crew, who thought it advifeable to retreat. However^ a four pounder direclied towards the fhore, frightened the inhabitants fufhciently, fo that our people could feize two-large double canoes, and bring them along-fide of the fhip. We left the fhip after this diflurbance, in order to take an afternoon's walk afliorc near the watering-place, and to reflore the confidence of the people, who had entirely forfaken us on account of our open hoflilities. We purfued a different path from that which we had taken in the morning, and found great quantities of bananas, yams, eddies, &c. planted round every cottage, inhabited by friendly good-natured people, who feemed however a little more fliy or referved than ufual, on account of what had happened. At laft we arrived at a large houfe, neatly conflrucìed of reeds, which we were told belonged to Aheatua, who was  in another diftridfa
at
at prefent.    Here we faw  a hog,   and a  couple   of AJJ5JTj
fowls, the firfl which the natives expofed to our fight,
having hitherto been very careful to conceal them, and
always refufing to part with them, under the pretext that
they were the property of the arce or king.   They made
ufe of the fame excufe at prefent,  though we offered a
hatchet, which in their eyes was the mofl valuable mer-
chandife we had.   After a fhort flay, we returned the fame
way we came, and brought a fmall collection of new plants
on board.    About fun-fct a boat was fent off, out of the
harbour, to bury in the fea one Ifaac Taylor, a marine,
who died this morning of a complication of diforders.
Ever fincc we had left England, this man had been feverifh,
confumptive, and afthmatic ;  his complaints always kept
increafing, and at laft turned to a dropfy, which carried
him off.    All our people on board were now well, except
one, whofe remarkable fcorbutic habit of body always laid
him up as foon as we came out to fea, where prophylactics
and wort could but jull keep him alive.   However this
man, as well as the Adventure's crew, who were much
affected with the fcurvy when they came in here, recovered
amazingly by walking on fhore, and eating quantities
of frefh fruit.
Early the next morning fome of the natives came off Tburfday !f. to us in a fmall canoe, and begged for the reflitution of thofe larger ones which had been taken from them on the
N n 2 day
day before. Captain Cook, who perceived the trade to have flackcned in confcqucnce of that fcizure, none of the inhabitants coming to the fhip, and few to the watering-place, returned the canoes, as the befl means to reconcile us to the confidence of the natives ; and though the effects of his indulgence were not inftantaneous, yet in a day or two our trade was perfectly re-eftablifhed.
After this peaceful prelude we went on fhore, in purfuit of botanical difcoveries.   A fmart fhower of rain which had fallen over night, had cooled the air confidcrably, and made our walk extremely pleafant, before the fun could become troublefome.    The whole country had profited by this rain, for every plant and tree feemed revived by ir, and the groves exhaled a fweet refrefhing fmell.   Whether it was owing to the early hour of our excurfion, or to the beauty of the morning, our car was faluted by the fong of many fmall birds, which enlivened this delightful country.   Wc had not walked far, when we heard a loud noife in the wood, which refemblcd the flrokes of a carpenter's hammer.   We followed the found, and at laft came to a fmall fhed, where five or fix women were fitting on both fides of a long fquare piece of timber, and beat the fibrous bark of the mulberry-tree here, in order to manufacture it into cloth.   The inftrument they ufed for this purpofe was a fquare wooden  club,   with longitudinal and parallel furrows, which run fmaller and clofer together on the
different
different fides % They ceafed a little while to give us time to examine the bark, the mallet, and the timber on which they performed their operations. They alfo fhcwed us a kind of glutinous water in a coco-nut (hell, which was made ufe of from time to time, to make the pieces of bark cohere together. This glue, which, as we undcrflood, was made of the hibifcus efcukntus, is indifpenfibly neceflary in the manufacture of thofe immenfe pieces of cloth, fometimes two or three yards wide, and fifty yards long, which are compofed of little bits of bark, taken from trees never fo thick as the wrifl. We carefully examined their plantations of mulberry-trees, but never found a fingle old one among them ; as foon as they are of two years growth they are cut down, and new ones fpring up from the root, for fortunately this tree is one of the mofl prolific in nature, and if fuffered to grow till it flowered and could bear fruits, might pei haps totally over-run the country. The bark muft always be taken from young trees ; and thefe are carefully drawn into long flems, without any branches, except juft at the top, fb that the bark is as entire as pof-fible. The method of preparing it before it comes under the tnallet, we were not yet acquainted with at this time. The women employed in this manner, were dreffed in old and dirty rags of their cloth, and had very hard and callous
* Sec Dr. Hawkefworth's compilation,, vol. II. p. 2^2, and plate No. 9.
hands.
hands.    We proceeded a little farther up in a narrow valley, where a well-looking man invited us to fit down in the Iliade before his houfe.   There was a little area paved with broadifti flones, on which he fpread banana leaves for us, and brought out a little flool made of the bread-tree-wood, cut out of one piece, on which he defned one of us to fit down, whom he took to be the principal perfon. Seeing us all feated he ran into his houfe, and brought out a quantity of bread-fruit baked, which he laid before us on fretli banana leaves.   To this he added a matted bafket full of the vee, or Taheitcc apples, a fruit of the fpondias genus, which refembles the anana, or pine-apple in the tafle, and entreated us to partake of thefe refre foments. We breakfaftcd with a hearty appetite, fharpened by the exercife we had taken, the fine air of the morning, and the excellence of the provifions.   We found the Taheitee method of drefling bread-fruit and other victuals, with heated flones under ground, infinitely fuperior to our ufual way of boiling them ; in the former ail the juices remained, and were concentrated by the heat ; but in the latter, the fruit imbibed many watery panicles, and lofi a great deal of its fine flavour and meaiinefs..   To conclude this treat our hofl brought us five frefh coco-nuts, which he opened by pulling the fibres off with his teeth.    The cool limpid liquor contained in them he poured into a clean cup, made of a rjpe coco-nut- flicll, and offered that to each of us in our
turns..
turns. The people in this country had on all occafions been good-natured and friendly, and for beads fometimes fold us coco-nuts and fruit, if we called for them; but we had not yet feen an inflance of hofpitality cxercifed in fo complete a manner during our fhort flay. We therefore thought it our duty to rccompenfe our friend as much as lay in our power, and prefentcd him with a number of tranfparent beads and iron nails, with which he was highly fatisfied and contented.
We continued our walk into the country from this feat of patriarchal hofpitality, notwithflanding the lineatinefs which many of the natives expreiTed, among the croud that followed us. When they faw us perfift in our expediticr*. the greatefl part of them difperfed to their different habitations, and only a few of them attended us, who made it their bufine fs to acT as our guides. We came to the foot of the firfl hills, where we left the huts and plantations of the natives behind us, and afcended on a beaten path, pafling through an uncultivated fhrubbery mixed with feveral tall timber-trees. Here we fearched the mofl intricate parts, and found feveral plants and birds hitherto unknown to natural hiflorians. With thefe little acqui-fitions we returned towards the fea, at which our friends the natives expreffed their fatisfaction. We found a vafl concourfe of inhabitants on the beach at our trading-place, and faw that our people had brought a great quantity of
large
i77>     larre eddies and other roots, but few bread-fruits, which
August. o 5 »
were now very fcarce, only a few trees bearing them fo late in the feafon, while mofl of the others were already-mooting forth the embryo of a new crop.   The excelTive heat of the fun, now tempted us to bath in a branch of the adjacent river,   which formed a deep pond of fome extent ', and being refrefhed with this bath we returned on board to dinner.   In the afternoon we had heavy rains, attended with wind, during which the Adventure drove from her moorings, but was brought up again by a timely manoeuvre.   This  bad weather confined us on board, where we arranged the plants and animals which we had hitherto collected, and made drawings of fuch as were not known before.   Our three days excurfions had fupplied us only with a fmall number of fpecies, which in an ifland fo flourifhing as Taheitee, gave a convincing proof of its high cultivation ; for a few individual plants occupied that fpace, which in a country entirely left  to  itfelf, would have teemed with feveral hundred different kinds in wild diforder.   The fmall fize of the ifland, together with its vafl diftance from either the eaflern or weflcrn continent, did not admit of a great variety of animals.   We faw no other fpecics of quadrupeds than hogs,  and dogs which were domellic, and incredible numbers of rats, which the natives fuffcred to run about at pleafure, without ever trying to deflroy them.   We found however a tolerable number
of
of birds, and when the natives gave themfelves the trouble    . »?.»!•
' ° Avo v it
to filli, wc commonly purchafed a confiderable variety of fpecies. as this clafs of creatures can cafily roam from one part of the ocean to the other, and particularly in the torrid zone, where certain forts are general all round the world.
If the fcarcity of fpontaneous plants was unfavourable to the botanifl, llill it had the moll falutary effects with regard to the whole company on board of both our veflcls, lince their place was occupied by great quantities of whole-fome vegetables. We daily bought abundance of yams, eddies, and Taheitee apples ; together with fome bananas and bread-fruit, which, on account of the feafon, were grown very fcarcc. The wholefomc regimen which we had by this means been able to keep, had vifibly, and I might almoft fay miraculoufiy, operated to reftore to their health, all thofe who were ill of the fcurvy at our arrival; and the only inconvenience wc felt from it was a kind of flux, owing to the fudden change of diet, with which a few of the people were afflicted. Not contenf with this fortunate fupply, we could not help calling longing eyes towards the hogs which we faw in great numbers on all our excurfions into the country, though the natives were always careful to hide them in low fty.es, covered over with boards, forming a kind of platform, on which they fat or lay down. We tried all poffible means to engage the people to fell fome of them to us, and offered hatchets, Vol. I. O o fbirts,
fhirts, and other goods of value to the Taheitians, but (lilL without fuccefs, their con {Ian t anfwer being, that thefe animals were the king's (arees) property. Inflcad of acquief-cing in this rcfufal, and acknowledging the kind difpofition of the natives, who furnifhed us at leaft with the means of recovering our flrength, and reflonng our fick, a propofal was made to the captains,, by fome perfons in the mips, to fweep away by force a fulTicient number of hogs for our ufe, and afterwards to return fuch a quantity of our goods in exchange to the natives, as we fhould think adequate to the fpoil we had taken. This propofal, which nothing but the mofl tyrannical principles, and the meanefb felfifhnefs could have dictated, was received with the contempt and indignation which it juftly deferved.
Our acquifitions in natural hiftory being hitherto fo in* confiderable, we had leifure every day to ramble in the} country in fearch of others, as well as to pick up various circumflances which might ferve to throw a light on the character, manners, and prefent fiate of the inhabitants.
On the 2"o-th towards noon, I directed my walk, in company with feveral officers, to the eaflern point of the harbour. We foon came to a rivulet, which was wide and deep enough to admit a canoe upon it, by means of which we ferried over to the oppofitc fhore, where we perceived a houfe of fome extent, among the bufhes. Before it we faw a quantity of the finer forts of Taheitcc cloth fprcad out on
the
the grafs, which the natives told us, had been vvallicd in the river ; and clofe to the houfe, fufpended on a pole, we obferved a target of a femicircular form, made of wicker-work, and plaited firings (of the coco-nut fibres,) covered with the glofiy bluifh-grecn feathers of akind of pigeon, and ornamented with many fhark's teeth, difplaycd in three co-centric femicircles; 1 enquired whether it was to be pur-chafed, but was anfwered in the negative, and concluded that it was only expofed to the air, in the fame manner as we arc ufed to do from time to time, with things which we preferve in clofe boxes.   A middle-aged man, who lay flretched at his cafe in the hut, invited us to fit down by him, and curiouily examined my drefs ; he had long nails on his fingers,  upon which he  valued himfelf not a little, and which I found were a mark of diflinc-tion, fincc only fuch perfons, as had no occafion to work, could fufTcr them to grow to that length.   The Chinefe have the fame cuflom, and pride themfelves as much in it ; but whether the Taheitians derive it from them, or whether chance has led them both to the fame idea, without any communication with each other, is pofhbly beyond the art of Needham and Dcs Guignes to determine.    In different corners of the hut wc faw fome women and fome men, fcparately eating their dinner of bread-fruit and bananas, and both parties, as we approached them, dcfircd us to partake of their provifions. The fingular cultom, which forces
O o 2 the
the fexes to fhun each others company at their meals, is already mentioned by former voyagers, who have been equally unfuccefsful with ourfelves in difcovering its caufe.
We left this hut, and drolled through an odoriferous fbrubbery to another, where we found O-Tai, his wife, and children, and his fillers M'aroya and Marora'i. The officer who had loll his bed-fheets was with us, but thought it to no purpofe to enquire for them, and rather tried to ingratiate himfelf with the fair one. Beads, nails, and various trifles were prefented to her, which (lie readily accepted, but remained inexorable to the paffionatc follicitations of her lover. As fhe had in all probability obtained the pof-feflion of the fhcets, which flic coveted, and for which alone fhe could have fubmitted to proflitution, it feems no» thing could afterwards tempt her to admit the tranfient embraces of a ilranger. This is the mofl likely conllruc-tion we could put upon her conduci:, and it became more probable to us, when we confidered, that fhe belonged to a family of fome note, and that, during captain Cook's long flay on the ifland in the Endeavour, there had been few, if any inftances, that women among the better fort of people had demeaned themfelves fo far. After a fhort flay with them, I returned to our trading place, but finding all our boats gone off, ventured to embark in a fingle canoe, without an outrigger, and was fafely brought on board the Refolution
folution for a fingle bead, which was all I had left after aÌgJst. this excurfion.
At day-break the next morning we went albore again, Saturday %u on another walk to the eaftward.   We obferved the plain to widen, as we advanced beyond the eaft point of Aitepeha harbour, and of courfe growing richer in bread-fruit and coco-nut trees, bananas, and other vegetable productions, on moft of which we faw the buds of a future crop. The houfes of the natives were likewife found to be more numerous, and many feemed to us neater and newer than thofe near our anchoring-place.   In one of them, which was of the clofer forr, walled in with reeds, we faw a great many bundles of cloth, and cafes for targets fufpended from the roof, all which, as well as the houfe itfelf, we were informed belonged to Aheatua.   We walked about two miles in the moft delightful groves or plantations of fruit-trees, where the natives were juft returning to their various employments.    Among them we eafily noticed the manufacturers of cloth, by the hollow found of the mallet.   However, it muft not be fuppofed, that the ne-ceffities of thefe people urgently required their conftant application to work ; for our appearance foon gathered a croud of them about us, who followed us all day as far as we went, and fometimes even neglected their meals on our account..    It was not without fome interefled motives, that they attended upon us.   Their general behaviour towards
*m.     wards us was good-natured, friendly, and I may fay offi-
At'CUiT. °
•cious ; but they watched every opportunity of conveying away fome trifles with amazing dexterity, and many among them, whenever wc returned the kind looks they gave us, or fmilcd upon them, thought that a proper time to take advantage of our good difpofition, and immediately with a begging tone faid, tayo, pee, " friend, a bead !" which, whether we complied With or rcfufed, did not alter their good temper.   When thefe petitions became too frequent, we ufed to mock them, by repeating their words in the fame tone, which always produced a general peal of good-humoured laughter amongfl them. Their convcrfation was commonly loud, and it feemed that our appearance was their principal topick ; every new-comer was immediately made acquainted by the others with our names, which they reduced to a few vowels and fofter confonants, and was entertained with a repetition of what we had faid or done that morning.    His firfl requefl was generally to hear a mufket fired off, which we complied with on condition that he fhould fhew us a bird as a mark.    However, wc were frequently at a lofs how to behave, when he pointed out a bird at four or five hundreds yards diftance, as they had no idea that the effects of our fire-arms were limited to a certain fpacc.    As it was not prudent to let them into this myflcry, we always pretended that we could not fee die bird, till we came near enough to fhoct it.   The firfl
cxplofion
explofion frightened them confiderably, and on fome pro- AJJ"*T duced fuch violent conflernation that they dropped down on the ground, or ran back about twenty yards from us, oliere they remained till we quieted their fears by profef-fions of friendship, or till their more courageous brethren had picked up the bird which we had killed. But they foon became more familiar, and though they always expreffed fome fudden emotion, yet they conquered by degrees the appearance of fear.
Notwithstanding the friendly reception which wc met with- on all fides, the natives were very anxious to keep their hogs out of fight, and whenever we enquired for them feemed uncafy, and either told us they had none, or affured us they belonged to Ahcatua their king. As we perceived their reluctance to part with thefe animals, we thought it belt to take no farther notice of them, and though wc faw great numbers of them confined in pigflycs almoft in every hut, we pretended not to know that there, were any, or not to care for them -, this proceeding wc always found had the good effect of encreafing the confidence, of the people towards us*
Having advanced a mile or two, we fat down on a few large flones, which formed a kind of paved area before, one of the cottages, and defired the inhabitants to bring us fome bread-fruit and coco-nuts,  in  exchange for beads. They very readily fupplied us with a quantity of each, on
which
which we breakfafted.   The croud who followed us, fat down at a diftance from us, at our defire, in order that they might have no opportunity of fnatching up any of our arms, or other apparatus, which we were obliged to lay out of our hands, while we made our meal.    To add to our good cheer, we were prefented with a coco-nut fhell full of a kind of diminutive frefh fifh, which the natives are ufed to eat raw, without any other fauce than fait water. We tafted them, and found them far from difagreeable ; however, as we were not ufed to eat them without being «drelTed, we diftributed them, with the remains of the fruit, to our favourites among the croud.
Thus refreshed, we continued our walk, but turned towards the hills, notwithflanding the importunities of the natives, who urged us to continue on the plain, which we eafdy perceived arofe merely from their diflikc to fatigue. We were not to be diverted from our purpofe ; but leaving behind us almoft the whole croud, we entered, with a few guides, a chafm between two hills. There we found feveral wild plants which were new to us, and faw a number of little fwallows flying over a fine brook, which rolled impe-tuouily along.    We walked up along its banks to a perpendicular rock, fringed with various tufted Ihrubberies, from whence it fell in a crystalline column, and was collected at the bottom into a fmooth limpid pond, furrounded with many fpecies of odoriferous flowers.   This fpot, where we
had
had a profpecT. of the plain below us, and of the fea beyond it, was one of the mod beautiful I had ever feen, and could not fail of bringing to remembrance the moll fanciful de-fcriptions of poets, which it eclipfed in beauty. In the fhade of trees, whofe branches hung over the water, we enjoyed a plcafant gale, which foftened the heat of the day, and amidft the folemn uniform noife of the waterfall, which was but feldom interrupted by the whiffling of birds, we fat down to defcribe our new acquisitions before they withered. Our Taheitian companions feeing us employed, likewife reded among the bullies, viewing us attentively and in profound filence. We could have been well pleafed to have pafTed the whole day in this retirement; however, after finiftiing our notes, and fcading our eyes once more with the romantick fcenery, we returned to the plain. Here we obferved a great croud of the natives coming towards us, and at their near approach perceived two of our fhip-mates, Mr. Hodges and Mr. Grindall, whom they fur-rounded and attended on their walk. We foon joined them, and refolvcd to continue our excurfion together. A youth, of a very promifing countenance,, who had diftinguifhed himfelf by fhe wing a particular attachment for thefe gentlemen, was entruded with Mr. Hodges's port-folio, where he preferred the fketches and dcfigns, which he had frequent opportunities of making on his walk. No favour, or mark of affection could I believe have given this youth Vol. I. P p fo
fo much real pleafurc, as the confidence they had placed in him, upon which he feemed to value himfelf among his countrymen. Perhaps this circumdancc, joined to the peaceable appearance of our gentlemen, who walked without arms of any kind, had a general effect upon all the people that furrounded us, as their familiarity and affection feemed much encreafed. We entered a fpacious hut together, where we faw a large family aflèmbled. An old man, with a placid countenance, lay on a clean mar, and reded his head on a little dool, which ferved as a pillow. His head, which was truly venerable, was well furniflied with fine locks of a filvery grey, and a thick beard as white as fnow defcended to his bread. His eyes were lively, and health fat on his full cheeks. His wrinkles, which characterize age with us, were few and not deep ; for cares, trouble, and difappointment, which untimely furrow our brows, cannot be fuppofed to exid in this happy nation. Several little ones, whom we took to be his grand-children, and who, according to the cuftom of the country, were perfectly naked, played with their aged an-cedor, while his actions and looks convinced us, that the fimpie way of living to which he had been ufed, had not yet blunted his fenfes. Several well-made men and artlcfs nymphs, in whom youth fupplied the want of beauty, fur-rounded the old man, and as we came in feemed to be in converfation after a frugal meal.   They defired us to fit
down
down on die mats among them, and we did not give them Aug7J33't, time to repeat their invitation. Their curiofity, which had perhaps never before been gratified with the fight of Grangers, now prompted them to examine our drefs and our arms, without bellowing their attention longer than a moment on any fingle object. They admired our colour, preffed our hands, feemed to wonder that we had no punctures on them, nor long nails on our fingers, and eagerly enquired for our names, which when known, they were happy to repeat. Thefe names, as they pronounced them, were not fo like the originals that an etymologift could cafily have deduced them, but in return they were more harmonious, and eafi-ly pronounced. Forfler was changed into Malora, flodges into Oreo, Grindall into Terme, Sparrman into Pamanee, and George into Teoree. The hofpitality which we had found under every roof, was not wanting here, and we were offered fome coco-nuts and e-vees to quench our thiril after the laft walk. One of the young men had a flute made of a bamboo, which had but three holes ; he blew it with his noflrils *, whilft another accompanied him with the voice. The whole mufic, both vocal and inflrumental, confuted of three or four notes, which were between half and quarter notes, being neither whole tones nor femi-tones. The effect of thefe notes, without variety or order, was only a kind of drowfy hum, which could not indeed hurt
* See Hawkefworth.
P p 2 the
the ear by its difcordant founds, but made no pleafing im-prefhon on our minds. It is furprifing that the tafle for mufic fhould be fo general all over the world, when the ideas of harmony among different nations are fo diflinct ! Charmed with the picture of real happinefs, which was thus exhibited before us, Mr. Hodges filled his port-folio with feveral fketches, which will convey to future times the beauties of a fcene, of which words give but a faint idea. While he was drawing, all the natives looked on with great attention, and were highly pleafed to find out the refemblance between his performances and different perfons among them. Our acquaintance with their language, which we were at great pains to improve, was as yet very imperfect, and deprived us of the pleafure which we might have received from a converfation with thefe good people. A few feparate words, and an interlude of dumb mimickry, was all that we had to fupply the place of a coherent fpeech. However, even this was fufficient to amufe the natives, and our docility and endeavours to pleafe feemed to be at leaft as agreeable to them, as their focial temper and willingnefs to give inflruction appeared to us. The old man, without changing his attitude, and continue ing to recline his head on the flool, afked us feveral little queflions, fuch as the captain's name, the name of the country we came from, how long we fhould flay, whether we had our wives on board, &c.   It feemed that he was
already
already apprifed of all thefe things by common report, but wifhed to have them confirmed from our own mouths. We fatisfied his curiofity as well as wc could on thefe points, and after diflributing little prefents of beads, medals, and other trifles to his family, we fet forwards once more on our excurfion. The many paufes which wc made at the hofpitable huts of the natives, always refrefhed us fo much, that we felt no manner of inconvenience, and could with eafe have walked round the whole ifland in the fame manner. The plain at the foot of the mountains offered no impediment to our progrefs ; on the contrary, its paths were well beaten, and its whole furface perfectly level, and covered in many places with a fine growth of graffes. Not a fingle noxious animal appeared to deter us, and not even a gnat or mufketoe hummed unpleafantly about us, or made us apprehenfive of its bite. The bread-fruit groves, with their abundant foliage, intercepted the rays of the meridian fun, whofe action was greatly mitigated by a frefh fea-breeze. The inhabitants however, who were ufed to pafs the middle of the day in repofe, dropt off one by one in the bufhes, fo that only a few remained with us. After we had walked about two miles farther to the fouth eaftward, we came to the fea-fhore at a place where it formed a little inlet. Here, furrounded on all fides with plantations, we met with a glade or lawn, in the midft of which we faw a marai (burying-place) built up of three
ranges
ranges of flones, like fleps, each about three feet and a half in height, and covered with graffes, ferns, and fmall fhrubs. Towards the country, at fome diflance from the building, there was an oblong enclofure round it made of flone, about three feet high, within which two or three folitary coco-palms and fome young cafuarinas, with their weeping branches, gave an air of folemnity and pleafing melancholy to the fcene. At a little diflance from the marai", furrounded by a thick fhrubbery, we faw an in-confiderable hut or flied, (tupapow,) where, on a kind of flage about breafl high, a corpfc was placed, covered with a white piece of cloth, which hung down in various folds. Young coco-trees and bananas were fpringing up, and dragon-trees bloffoming around it. Near this we faw another hut, where a quantity of eatables lay for the divinity, (eatitaj and a pole was fluck in the ground, on which we faw a dead bird wrapped in a piece of a mat. In this lafl hut, which flood on a fmall eminence, we obferved a woman fitting in a penfivc attitude, who got up at our approach, and would not fuller us to come near her. We offered her a fmall prefent, but lire rcfufed to touch it. We underflood from the natives who were with us, that fhe belonged to the marai, and that the dead corfe was alfo a woman's, whofe obfequies the firfl perhaps was performing.
After
After Mr. Hodges bad made feveral drawings we returned from this place, which had really fomething grand in its appearance, and feemed calculated to favour religious meditation.   In our return we kept along the fea-fhore, till wc came to a fpacious houfe, very pleafantly fituated amidfl a grove of low coco-palms, loaded with fruit. Two or three fried little fifhes, which one of the natives fold us for a few beads, were here fhared among us, to flay our appetite, grown very keen again fince our breakfafl. Several of our company likewife bathed in the fea, as a farther refrefhment in this warm climate, and having afterwards bought fome pieces of cloth, fahows) of the country fabrick, dreffed in them, after the Taheitee fafhion, to the infinite pleafure of the natives.   Our walk continued along the fhore beyond another marai, much like the firfl, to a neat houfe, where a very fat man, who feemed to be a chief of the diflrict, was lolling on his wooden pillow. Before him two fervants were preparing his defert, by beating up with water fome bread-fruit and bananas, ina large wooden bowl, and mixing with it a quantity of the fermented four parie of bread-fruit, (called mahd.)   The confidence of this mixture was fuch, that it could properly be called a drink, and the inflrument with which they made it, was a peflle of a black polifhed flone, which appeared to be a kind of bafaltes *.   While this was doing, a woman who fat down
• See Hawkefwortb, vol, II. p, 202»
near
near him, crammed down his throat by handfuls the remains of a large baked fifh, and feveral bread-fruits, which he fwallowed with a voracious appetite. His countenance was the picture of phlegmatic infenfibility, and feemed to witnefs that all his thoughts centred in the care of his paunch. He fcarce deigned to look at us, and a few mo-nofyllables which he uttered, were only directed to remind his feeders of their duty, when we attracted their attention. The great degree of fatisfaction which we had enjoyed on our different walks in this ifland, and particularly the pleasure of this day's excurfion, was diminifhed by the appearance and behaviour of the chief, and the reflections which naturally arofe from thence. We had flattered ourfelves with the pleafing fancy of having found at leaft one little fpot of the world, where a whole nation, without being lawlcfs barbarians, aimed at a certain frugal equality in their way of living, and whofe hours of enjoyment were juflly proportioned to thofe of labour and red. Our dif-appointment was therefore very great, when we faw a luxurious individual Spending his life in the moil iluggifh inactivity, and without one benefit to fociety, like the privileged parafites of more civilized climates, fattening on the fuperfluous produce of the foil, of which he robbed the labouring multitude. His indolence, in fome degree, FC-fcmblcd that which is frequent in India and the adjacent ■kingdoms of the Eafl, and defcrved every mark of indignation
tion which Sir John Mandeville exprefTed in his Afiatic travels. That worthy knight, who, top-full of chivalry, and the valourous fpirit of his time, devoted his life to conftant activity, was highly incenfed at the fight of a monflcr of lazinefs, who paiTed his days " withouten 11 doynge of ony dedes of armes," and lived " everemore " thus in efc, as a fwyn that is fedde in fly, for to ben " made fatte f,"
On
• For the fatisfaction of my readers I mall here infert the account which the
knight gives of the voluptuary who attracted his cenfure, cfpccially as feveral little circumftances ferve to make the ììmtlarity between him and the Taheitian chief more perfect..—" From that lond, in returnynge be ten jorneys thorgc out
the lond of the grete Chane, is another gode yle and a great kyngdom, where ** the kyng is fulle riche and myghty. And amonges the riche men of bis ** contree is a pailynge riche man, that is no pryncc, ne duke, ne eri ; but he ** hath mo that holden of him londes and other lordtchipes: for he is more 4* riche. For he hathe every zeer of anmille rente 3CC000 hors charged with " corn of dyverfe greynes and ryzs ; and fo he ledethe a fulle noble lif and a " delycate, after the cuftom of the contree. For he hathe every day 50 fair u damyfeles, alle maydenes, that ferven him everc more at his mete, and for to ** lye by him o night, and for to do with hem that is to his pkfancc. And " when he is at the table, thci bryngen him hys mete, at every tyme 5 and " 5 togedre. And in bryngynge hire fervyce, thci fyngen a fong. And after " that, thei kutten his mete, and putten it in his mouthc, for he touchcthc li no thing, nc handlethe nought, but holdcthe cveicmore his hondes before " him upon the table. For he hathe fo longe nnylcs, that he may take no-" thing,  nc handle no thing,  for the noblcfle of that contree is to have longe
l* naylcs, and to make hem growen alle ways to ben as longe as men may.-.
" And alle weys theife damyfeles, that I fpak of beforn, fyngen all the tyme " that this riche man etcthe : and whan that he etcthe no more of his tir ft «* cour?, thanne other 5 and 5 of faire damyfeles bryngen him his feconde " cours alle vvcys fyngynge as thci dide beforn.    And lo thei don contvnuelly
Vol. I. q..q M cvery
On leaving this Taheitian drone we feparated, and I accompanied MeiT. Hodges and Grindall, whofe good-natured friend, the carrier of the port-folio, had earneftly invited us to his habitation.   We arrived there towards five in the evening, and found it a fmall but cleanly cottage, before which a great abundance of frefh leaves were fpread on a flony place, and a prodigious quantity of the beft coco-nuts and well-roaftcd bread-fruit were laid out in fine order.   He immediately ran to two elderly perfons, who were bufy in frightening the rats from this plentiful flore of provifions, and introduced them to us as his parents.    They cxpreflèd great joy on feeing the friends of their fon, and entreated us to fit down to the meal which lay before us.   We were at firfl flruck with aflonifhment on finding it entirely prepared at our arrival, but we foon recollected that our friend had fent off one of his comrades feveral hours beforehand, very probably with directions to provide for our entertainment.   As this wTas the firfl regular meal to which we fat down this day, it will eafily be conceived that we fell to with a good appetite, and gave infinite fatisfaction to the good-natured old people and the generous-minded youth, who all feemed to
«< every day to the endeof his mete. And in this manere he ledethe his lif, and " fo did thei beforn him that weren his aunceftres, and fo fchulle thci that « ccmen afire him." See the Voyages and Travaylls of Sir John Maundevile, knighty PaS- 376'
think
think themfelves happy in the honour which we did to their excellent cheer. With fuch a venerable pair mini-firing to us, if I may be allowed to indulge in a poetical idea, we ran fome rifle of forgetting that we were men, and might have believed ourfelves feailed by the hofpitable Baucis and Philemon, if our inability to reward them had not reminded us of mortality. However, all the beads and nails which we could mufler amongft us were offered to them, rather as a mark that we preferved a grateful fenfe of their good heart, than as any retribution. The youth went on with us to the beach oppofite to our veffels, and brought on board a great quantity of provifions, which we had left unconfirmed at our dinner. He was there pre-fented with a hatchet, a fhirt, and various articles of lefs value by his friends, and returned that very evening on fhore to his parents, being probably enriched beyond his warmefl expectation.
The ufual trade had been carried on about the fhips, and on the beach oppofite to them, during our ab fence, without any material incident, except Captain Cook's meet-ing with Tu a how, the fame native who had accompanied him a confiderable way when he made the circuit of Tane itee in a boar, in the courfe of his firfl voyage *, Wc found him and two of his countrymen on board at our return, they having refolved to take up their night's lodging
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 160, 162, &c.
Q_q 2 With
with us, which, though ufual at Matavai Bay during the Endeavour's voyage, none had hitherto ventured upon in this place. Tuahow being already familiarized with our way of living, and acquainted with the various objects which commonly flruck his countrymen with wonder, eagerly entered into difcourfc with us, as he found us attentive to his queflions. He enquired after T alane, Mr. B.inks ; Tolano, Dr. Solandcr j 7*upaya% (Tupia) and feveral perfons in the Endeavour whofe names he recollected. He rejoiced to hear that Mr. Banks and Dr, Solander were well, and having often renewed his queftion, always received the fame anfwer to it ; upon which he afked whether they would not come back to Taheitee, accompanying it with a look which flrongly expreffed the wifh of feeing them again. When he heard of Tupaya's death, he waa defirous of being informed whether it had been violent or natural, and was well pleafed to hear from fuch circum-fiances as we could by broken words and figns communicate to him, that ficknefs had put a period to his life. In return, we quefiioned him concerning the death of Toota-hàb, who had appeared as the acting chief of the ifland in Captain Cook's former voyage. We plainly underflood that a great naval fight had happened between that chief and old Abeatua*, the father of the prefent king of Tiarraboo* in which neither party had gained a decifive advantage \
• Called IVaheatua in Hawkefvvorth, vol. IL p. J-57, 158.
but
»
but that Tootahàh afterwards marching his army acrofs the iflhmus, which fcparates the two peninfulas, had been defeated in an obftinate engagement, in which himfelf, Tuborai-Tamaide, and many other perfons of diftinction on his fide were flain. A peace was foon after concluded with O-Too the king of O-Tahcitee*, who, after Toota-hàh's deceafe, had affumed the power of the fovereignty, of which before he had only enjoyed the title. Old Aheatua, according to Tuahow's account, died but a few months after this peace, and his fon, of the fame name, who, according to the cufiom of this country, had already, during his father's life-time, borne the title of te-aree^ (the king,) and received the honours annexed to that dignity, now likewife fucceeded to its more eiTential part, the management of affairs.
This fubjefl being exhaufled, we took out the map of O-Taheitee, (engraved for captain Cooke's former voyage) and laid it before Tuahow, without telling him what it was. He was however too good a pilot, not to find it out prefently ; and overjoyed to fee a reprefentation of his own country, immediately with his finger pointed out the fituation of all the whennuas or diftricTs upon it, naming them at the fame time in their order, as we faw them written
* Called Otttou in Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 154»
f See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. j58, 159, 160, 175, where this tith is conftantly exprefTcd as his name.
on
on the chart.   When he came to O Whai-urua the next diftriet with a harbour, to the fouth of our prefent ancho-ring-place, he pulled us by the arm to look on attentively, and related that there had been a fhip (pahe'f) which he called pahci no Peppe, and which had lain there five days ; that the people in her had received ten hogs from the natives, and that one of the crew ran away from the fhip, and now lived upon the ifland.   From this account we concluded that the Spaniards had fent another veflel to examine O-Taheitee, probably firfl difcovered by their navigators, and which of late years had been fo frequently vifited by the Englifh, as might juflly roufe their attention, on account of the proximity of their own extenfive pof-feffions in South America.   Strange as it may feem, the name of Peppe confirmed us in our conjectures, notwithflanding its vafl difference from Efpana, from whence we fuppofed it originated ; becaufe we were by this time well acquainted with the cufiom of mutilating all foreign names, which the Taheitians poffefs, even in a higher degree than the French and Englifh.    We put feveral queflions relative to this fhip to Tuahow, but could never obtain any farther intelligence from him, except that the man who had left it, always accompanied Aheatua, and had given him the advice not to furnifh us with any hogs.   Whatever felf-intcrefled or bigoted motives that man may have had to give Aheatua fuch an advice, yet it feems to have been in
reality
reality the mofl friendly and valuable which he could have offered to his protector.    The way to keep the riches of his fubjects, among which are their hogs in the country, and to prevent new wants from prevailing among a happy people, was to get rid of us as foon as he could, by denying us the refreshments of which wc flood mofl in need. It were indeed finccrely to be wifhed, that the intercourfe which has lately fubfifled between Europeans and the natives of the South Sea iflands may be broken off in time, before the corruption of manners which unhappily cha-racterifes civilized regions, may reach that innocent race of men, who live here fortunate in their ignorance and ftmplicity.   But it is a melancholy truth, that the dictates of philanthropy do not harmonize with the political fyf* terns of Europe !
Several of our people having taken a walk on fhore, the next day returned on board with the news, that they had met with Aheatua, who was at lall come to this ditlrict in order to give us an audience.   They had been admitted into his prefence without any ceremony, and his majefly, in the midfl of ail his court, had given up one half of his flool (pappa), to Mr. Smith, one of our mates, who was of the party.    He had at the fame time gracioufly affuied him,  that he wifhed to fpeak to captain Cook, and had as many hogs to give him, as he had hatchets to pay for them, which was by far the mofl agreeable news we had
heard
jii'Su"     heard for fome time.   They alfo reported that they had feen a man refembling an European in colour and feature, but that upon fpeaking to him, he had retired into the croud.   Whether this was really an European, or whether the (lory which Tuahow had told us the evening before, had wrought upon the fancy of our men we cannot determine j fo much however is certain, that none of us ever faw him afterwards. Monday »j.       in confequence of Aheatua's declaration, the captains, with feveral officers, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf, went on fhore early on the 23d.    We proceeded about a mile along the river from which wc filled our cafks, being conducted by Opao, one of the natives, who had lodged on board.   A great croud coming down towards us, thofe who furrounded us pulled off their upper garments, fo as to uncover their fhouldcrs, which is a mark of refpecT due to the king.   We prcfently joined the croud, in the midft of whom Aheatua fat down on a large flool, cut out of folic! wood, which one of his people had hitherto carried. He immediately recollected captain Cook, and made room for hi 111 on his llool, while captain Furneaux, and the refi of us, cl'iofe large flones for our feats.    An immenfe number of natives thronged about us on all fides, and included us in a very narrow circle, increafing the heat to fuch a degree, that the king's attendants were frequently obliged to keep them back, by beating them.
O-All E AT V Am
O-Aiieatua, the king of O-Taheitee-cetee, (Little Ta- Aw heitee) which is otherwife called Tiarraboo, was a youth of fevcntcen or eighteen years  of age,  well-made, about five  feet fix  inches  high,   and   likely  to  grow taller. His countenance was mild, but unmeaning ;  and rather cxprcfTed fome figns of fear and diftrutt at our firfl meeting, which fuited ill with the ideas of majefly, and yet are often the characteriflics of lawlefs power.    His colour was of the faircft of his people, and his lank hair of a light-brown, turning into reddifli at the tips, or being what is commonly called fandy.   He wore at prefent no other drefs than a white falli, (marro) round the waift to the knees, made of the beft kind of cloth, and his head as well as all the reft of his body was uncovered.    On both fides of him fat feveral chiefs and nobles, diflinguifhable by their fuperior flature, which is the natural effect of the immenfe quantity of food which they confume.   One of them was punctured in a furprifing manner, which we had never feen before, large black blotches of various fliapes, almoft covering his arms, legs,  and fides.    This man, whofe name was E-Tee, was alfo remarkable for his enormous corpulence, and for the deference which the arce (king) paid to him, confulting him almofl upon every occafion. The king, during the time he fat on the flool, which was his throne, preferved a grave or rather lliff deportment, fcarce to be expected at his years, though it feemed to be Vol. I. R r ftudied
fludicd and aflumed,  only to make our meeting more folemn.    This may be looked upon as a kind of recommendation by fome men, but it is unhappily a mafk of hypocrify, which we fhould hardly have expected at Tahei-tee.     After  the firft falutation, captain Cook prefented" Aheatua with a piece of red baize, a bed-fhect, a broad axe, a knife, nails, looking-glaiTes, and beads ; and my father gave him fimilar prefents, among which was an aigrette or tuft of feathers fixed on a wire, and dyed of" a bright crimfon ; upon tnis his majefly fet a particular value, and at the fight of it the whole croud gave a general fhout of admiration, cxprciTed by the word awhay !   The king now enquired for Mr. Banks, which only Tuahow had done before him, and then afked how long we intended to flay, exprefilng at the fame time, that he wifhed we might remain five months.    Captain Cook's anfwer was, that as he did not receive fufficient fupplies of provifions, he muff fail immediately.    The king confined hi3 firfl rcqucfl to one month, and at laft to five days, but captain Cook per* filled in his refolution j Aheatua then promifed to fend us hogs the next day, but as this had been repeatedly faid without any confequence, we took no notice of it now j for even in a fiate fo little refined as Tiarraboo, we found that the real benevolence of the middle elafs, which manifefled it-felf towards us  in hofpitality and a number of good
and
A  VOYAGE  HOUND   THE   WOULD. 307
and noble actions, gave us no right to truft the fpccious aJgIVt. politenefs of the court and courtiers, who fed our hopes with empty promifes.
During this conference the croud, amounting at leali: to five hundred perfons, was fo cxcefllvely noify, that it was impoiTiblc at times to diflinguifli a word ; and on thofe occahons fome of the king's attendants with a Stentor's voice called out mamoo! (be lllent,) and enforced his command by dealing out hearty blows with a long flick. The aree feeing that captain Cook was not to be perfuaded to prolong his flay in this harbour, got up, and walked down along the river with us, while his attendants carried his wooden flool, and the kingly prefents which he had received.    On this walk he laid afide the gravity, which was not natural to him, and talked with great affability to our common people.   Lie deCred me to tell him the names of all the perfons from on board both floops, who were prefent, to which he added the queflion, whether they had their wives on board \   Being anfwered in the negative, his majefly in a fit of good humour defired them to look for partners among the daughters of the land, which they underflood it was meant at  prefent, in the light of a mere compliment.   He fat down foon after clofe to a houfe of reeds, into which wc all retired, when the fun appeared through the clouds.   Here he called for fome coco-nuts, and began to tell the flory of the Pahcino Peppe, or Spanifh
11 r 2 fhip,
fhip, of which Tuahow had given us the firfl intimation. According to the king's account it feemed clear, that the fhip had been at Wha'i Urua five months before us, and had lain there ten days. He added, that the captain had hanged four of his people, and that the fifth had efcaped the fame punifhment by running away. This European, whom they named O-Pahoòtu, we enquired after to no purpofe, for a long while j till his majefly's attendants feeing us very eager to become acquainted with him, affurcd us he was dead. We have fince heard that about the time mentioned by the natives, Don Juan de Langara y Huarte, fent out from the port of Callao in Peru, had vifued O-Taheitec, but what the particulars of that voyage are, has never tranf-pired. While we remained in the houfe E-Tee, the fat chief, who feemed to be the principal counfellor of the king, very ferioufly afked us, whether we had a God (Eatua) in our country, and whether we prayed to him (epooref) When we told him, that we acknowledged a Divinity, who had made every thing, and was invifible, and that we alfo were accuflomed to addrefs our petitions to him, he feemed to be highly pleafed, and repeated our words with notes of his own to feveral perfons who fat round him. To us he feemed to fignify, that the ideas of his countrymen correfponded with ours in this refpecT. Every thing concurs indeed to convince us, that this fimple and only jufl conception of the Deity, has been familiar to mankind
in
A   VOYAGE  ROUND  TEI E   WORLD. 309
in all ages and in all countries, and that only by the cx-ceffive cunning of a few individuals, thofe complex fyflems of abfurd idolatry have been invented, which difgracc the hiftory of almoft every people. The love of empire, or the purfuit afer voluptuoufnefs and indolence, feem to have infpircd ihe numerous branches of heathen priefls with the idea of keeping the minds of the people in awe, by awakening their fuperflition. The natural love of the miraculous has made it eafy for them not only to put their projects in execution, but likewife to weave their prejudices fo firmly into the web of human knowledge, that to this moment the greater part of mankind pay them homage, and blindly naffer themfelves to be cheated in the groflèft manner.
While E-Tee was converfmg on religious matters, king Aheatua was playing with Captain Cook's watch. After curiouffy examining the motion of fo many wheels, that feemed to move as it were fpontaneoufly, and fhewing his aftonifhment at the noife it made, which he could not exprefs otherwife than by faying it " fpoke," (parouj he returned it, and afked what it was good for. With a great deal of difficulty we made him conceive that it meafured the day, fimiiar to the fun, by whofe altitude in the heavens he and his people are ufed to divide their time. After this explanation, he called it a little fun, to fhew us that, he perfectly underflood our meaning. We were juft getting
ting up to return towards the beach, when a man arrived who brought a hog along with him, which the king presented to the captain, at the fame time promifing to give him another. With this fmall beginning wc relied fatis-ficd, and taking our leave, without any troublefome ceremony, only pronouncing a hearty tayo, (friend,) which had more meaning in it than many a fludied fpeech, we returned on board.
In the afternoon the captains went on fhore with us again to the king, whom we found where we had left him in the morning.   He took that opportunity of requeuing the captains again to prolong their flay at leafl a few days ; but he received the fame anfwer as before, and was plainly told, that his refufing to provide us with live flock was the reafon of their intended departure.   Upon this he immediately fent for two hogs, and prefented one to each of the captains, for which he received fome iron-wares in return. A highlander, who was one of our marines, was ordered to play the bngpipe, and its uncouth mufic, though almoft infuffcrable to our ears, delighted the king and his fubjecls to a degree which we could hardly have imagined pofHblc. The diflrufl which we perceived in his looks at our firfl interview was now worn off ; and if we had flaid long enough, an unreferved confidence might have taken its place, to which his youth and good-nature feemed to make him inclinable.   The ftudied gravity which he had then affected,
fected, was likewife laid afide at prefent, and fonie of his A'"JST, actions rather partook of puerility, among which I cannot help mentioning his amufement of chopping little Ricks and cutting down plantations of bananas with one of our hatchets. Bat, inftead of cultivating any farther acquaintance with him, we took our laft leave towards the clofe of the evening, and returned to the floops, which unmoored before night.
The inhabitants feeing us prepare for failing the next Tuefday a4. morning, came off in a vafl number of fmall canoes, loaded with coco-nuts and other vegetable provifions, which they fold exceflively cheap, rather than mifs the laft opportunity of obtaining European goods.   The tafle for baubles, which unaccountably prevails all over the world in different degrees, was fo extravagant here, that a fingle bead was eagerly purchafed with a dozen of the fincfl coconuts, and fometimes preferred even to a nail, though the laft might be of fome ufe, and the bead could ferve merely as an infigniflcant ornament.   We obferved that the trade was carried on much fairer this time than at our arrival, the natives being perhaps apprchenfivc that any little fraud might break off a commerce, in which they now appeared deeply interefled.   They accompanied us for this purpofe till wc were a mile or two without the reefs, and then returned to the beach, where we had left lieutenant Pickerf-
gill
gill with a boat, in order to take advantage of their prefent difpofition.
We were now able to breathe a little, after the continual hurry which had been the neceflary confequence of the multiplicity of new objects around us, and of the fhort fpace of time which we had to obferve them.    This interval of repofe was the more acceptable, as it gave us leifure to indulge the reflections which had crouded upon us during our flay.   The refult of thefe was a conviction, that this ifland is indeed one of the happiefl fpots on the globe. The rocks of New Zeeland appeared at firfl in a favourable light to our eyes, long tired with the conflant view of fea, and ice, and fky; but time ferved to undeceive us, and gave us daily caufe of diflike, till we formed a jufl conception of that rude chaotic country,   But O-Taheitee, which had prefented a pleafing profpect at a diflance, and difplaycd its beauty as we approached, became more enchanting to us at every excurfion which we made on its plains. Our long run out of fight of land might have been fuppofed at firfl to have had the fame effect: as at New Zeeland ; but our flay confirmed inflead of deflroying the emotions which we had felt at the firfl fight ; even though wTe had no room to be fo well pleafed with the refrefhments we had obtained, which were not by far fo plentiful as the fifh and wild-fowl of New Zeeland, and flill obliged us to have
recourfe
recourfe to fait provifions. The feafon of the year, which anfwered to our month of February, had naturally brought on a fcarcity of fruits ; for though it does not manifeil it-felf here by refrigerating the air, as in countries remote from the tropics, yet it is the feafon when all vegetation recovers the juices which have formed the late crop, and prepares them for a new one. At this time feveral trees entirely flied their leaves, feveral plants died away to the very root, and the remaining ones looked parched on account of the want of rain, which commonly takes place then, becaufe the fun is in the oppofite hemifphere. The whole plain therefore was arrayed in a fober brownifh and fometimes fallow colour. Only the lofty mountains pre-ferved richer tints in their forefls, which are fupplied with more moifture from the clouds that hang on their fummits almoft every day. From thence, among other things, the natives brought great quantities of wild plantanes (veheej% and that perfumed wood (e-ahdi), with which they give their coco-nut oil (monoe), a very fragrant fmcll. The fluttered Rate in which we faw the tops of thefe mountains, feemed to have been the work of an earthquake; and the lavas, of which many of the mountains confili, and of which the natives make feveral tools, convinced us of the exigence of former volcanoes on this iiland. The rich foil of the plains, which is a vegetable mould, mixed with volcanic decays, and a black irony fand, which is v°l. I. S s often
often found at the foot of the hills, are farther proofs of this aifertion. The exterior ranges of hills are fometimes entirely barren, and contain a great quantity of yellowifh clay, mixed with iron-ochre ; but others are covered with mould, and wooded like the higher mountains. Pieces of quartz are fometimes met with here, but we never faw indications of precious minerals or metals of any kind, iron excepted, and of that there were but fmall remains in the lavas which we picked up ; but the mountains may perhaps contain fome iron-ore rich enough for fufion. As to to the piece of falt-petre, as big as an egg, which Captain Wallis mentions as a product of Taheitee*, with all refpect for his nautical abilities, I beg leave to doubt of its exift-ence, fince native falt-petre has never yet been found in folid lumps, as appears from Cronlledt's Mineralogy.
The view of O-Taheitec, along which we now failed to the northward, fuggelled thefe curfory obfervations on its fofnl productions, while our eyes remained eagerly fixed on the fpot which had afforded us fuch a fund of real amufemcnt and inflruction. Our reflections were only interrupted by the fummons to dine on frefh pork, which was inftantly obeyed with an alacrity, that fufhciently proved our long abflinence. We were agreeably fur-prifed to find this pork entirely free from the lufcious iichnefs which makes it refill the ftomach fo foon in Eu-
* Sec Hawkefworth, vol. I, p. 457.
rope 3
rope ; the fat was to be compared to marrow, and the lean had almoft the tender tafte of veal. The vegetable diet which the hogs are ufed to at O-Taheitee, feems to be the principal caufe of this difference, and may have had fome influence even on the naturai inftincis of thefe animals. They were of that fmall breed which is commonly called the Chincfe, and had not thofe pendulous ears, which according to the ingenious count de Buffon, are the characters of flavery in animals. They were likewife much cleanlier than our European hogs, and did not feem to have that fingular cufiom of wallowing in the mire. It is certain that thefe animals are a part of the real riches of the Taheitians, and we faw great numbers of them at Aitepeha, though the natives took great pains to conceal them. But they arc fo far from being their principal dependence, that I believe their total extirpation would be no great lofs, efpecially as they are now entirely the property of the chiefs. They kill their hogs very fcldom, perhaps only on certain folemn occafions ; but at thofe times the chiefs eat pork with the fame unbounded greedinefs, with which certain fets of men are reproached at the turtle-feafls in England ; while the common fort rarely, if ever tafle a little bit, which is always held as a great dainty among them. Notwithflanding this, all the trouble of breeding, bringing up, and fattening the hogs is allotted totheloweft clafs of people,
Ss2 We
Zi6       ,    A   VOYAGE  ROUND   THE   WORE 1
August. were becalmed in the evening, and during a gieat
part of the night, but had a S. E. wind the next morning, fo that we flood in fhore again, in fight of the northern-mofl part of O-Taheitce, and of the adjacent ifle of Eimeo. The mountains here formed larger maffes, which had a more grand effect than at Aitepeha. The Hopes of the lower hills were likewife more confiderable, though almoft entirely deftitute of trees or verdure ; and the ambient border of level land, was much more cxtenfive hereabouts, and feemed in fome places to be above a mile broad. Towards ten o'clock we had the pleafure to fee feveral canoes coming off from the fhore towards us. Their long narrow fails, confiding of feveral mats fowed together, their flreamers of feathers, and the heap of coco-nuts and bananas on board, had all together a picinrefque appearance, for a few beads and nails they difpofed of their cargoes, and returned on fhore to take in another. About noon our boat arrived with lieutenant Pickerfgill, who had been very fuccefsful in trading at Aitepeha, having purchafed nine hogs and a quantity of fruit. His majefly, Aheatua, had been prefent at the trading-place the whole time, and after feating himfelf near the heap of iron wares, which our people had brought on fhore, defired to market for them, and was extremely equitable in giving hatchets of different kinds for hogs of proportionate fizes. In the intervals however, he amufed himfelf as he had done the
evening J
evening before, with chopping fmall flicks, with which A'7G7JiTt. our failors were much entertained, and after their manner made many fhrewd obfervations on triflers. Mr. Pick-erfgill having expended his Rock in trade, put off from Aitepeha in the afternoon, and came the fame evening to Hiddea, the diftrict of O-Rettce (Ereti) where M. de Bougainville lay at an anchor in 1768. Llere he was hofpitably entertained by the worthy old chief, who is fo juftly celebrated by that gallant French navigator ; and the next morning his brother Tarooree embarked with our officer, in order to vifit the fhips which they faw in the offing. When he came on board we found he had a kind of impediment in his organs of fpeech, by which means he fubflituted a K wherever the language required a T ; a fault which we afterwards obferved in feveral other individuals. He favoured us with his company at dinner, as well as another native named O-Wahow, who was the firfl that had come aboard from this part of the ifland, and to whom my father had immediately prefented a few beads and a fmall nail, merely to try his difpofition. In return he produced a fifh-hook neatly made of mother of pearl, which he gave to his new friend. A larger nail was the reward of this good-natured action ; and on the receipt of this he fent his boy to the fhore in his canoe. Tow. Is four o'clock the canoe returned, and brought on board this man's brother, and a prefent of a number of coco-nuts, feveral
bunches
bunches of bananas, and a clothing-mat. There was fome-thing fo generous in O-Wahow's way of acting, above all the little ideas of bartering, that we could not fail to exprefs the higheft regard for him. A much more confiderable prefent was returned to him, rather to confirm him in his noble fentiments, than as a compenfation for his gift. With that he retired in the evening, promifing to return to us again, and expreffing fuch extravagant emotions of joy as are commonly the effects of unexpected good fortune.
In the mean while we gradually approached the fhore, a faint breeze helping us on, and the evening-fun illuminating the landfcape with the ricliefl golden tints. We now difcerned that long projecting point, which from the obferv-ation made upon it, had been named Point Venus, and eafily agreed, that this was by far the mofl beautiful part of the ifland. The diflrict of Matava'i, which now opened to our view, exhibited a plain of fuch an extent as we had not expected, and the valley which we traced running up between the mountains, was itfelf a very fpacious grove, compared to the little narrow glens in Tiarraboo. We hauled round the point about three o'clock, and faw it crouded with a prodigious number of people, who gazed at us with fixed attention ; but as foon as we came to an anchor, in the fine bay which it flickers, the greater part of them ran very precipitately round the whole beach, and acrofs
One-
One-tree-hill to O-Parre, the next didrici: to the wcdward. Among the whole croud, we faw only a fingle man whofe moulders were covered with a garment, and he, according to our friend O Wahow's tedimony, was O-Too, the king of O-Taheiiee-Nue (the Greater Taheitee.) His perfon was tall, and very advantageoufly proportioned, but he ran very nimbly along with his fubjects, which the natives on board attributed to his apprehenfions on our account.
Though it was near fun-fet when we came to an anchor, yet our decks were in a (hort time crouded with natives of all ranks, who recognized their old friends in many of our officers and failors, with a degree of reciprocal joy, which cannot eafily be defcribed. Among them was the old, venerable O-Whaw, whofe peaceable character and good offices to our people, are taken notice of in the account of Lieutenant Cook's fird voyage, particularly upon the occa-fion when one of the natives was murdered*. He immediately recollected Mr. Pickcrfgill, and calling him by his Taheitean name, Petrodero, enumerated on his fingers, that this was the third vifit he made to the ifland, that gentleman having been here both in the Dolphin and the Endeavour. A chief, named Maratata J, paid captain Cook a vifit with his lady, (Tedua)-Erararee, who was a very well-looking young woman, and both received a number
* See Hawkefworth, vol. ii. p. 83, 90, ql x Ibid. p. 157. Mara'i'tata.
of
of prefents, though it appeared that thefe were, their fole motives for coming on board. A very tall, fat man, the father-in-law of Maratata, accompanied them, and was equally fortunate in collecting prefents amongft us, which he took no other method to obtain, than down-right begging. They all exchanged names with us in fign of friendihip, every one choofing a particular friend, to whom he was attached ; culloms which we had never obferved in our former anchoring place, where the natives were infinitely more refcrved, and in fome degree diffident of our intentions. Towards feven o'clock they left the fhip, not without promifing to return the next morning, which, from the good reception they had met with, did not feem to admit of a doubt.
All night the moon fhone clear in a cloudlefs fky, and filvercd over the polifhed furface of the fea, while the landfcape lay before us like the gay production of a fertile and elegant fancy. A perfect: filence reigned in the air, which was agreeably interrupted by the voices of feveral natives that had remained on board, and enjoyed the beauty of the night with their friends, whom they had known in a former voyage. They were feated at the fides of the vcflcl, and difcourfed on feveral topics, making then words more intelligible by different figns. We liflened to them, and found that they chiefly put queflions concerning what had happened to our people fincc their laft feparation, and
gave
gave accounts in their turn of the tragical fate of Tootahah, and his friends.   Gibfon, the marine, who was fo much delighted with this illand, in captain Cook's former voyage, that he made an attempt to Ray behind*, was now chiefly engaged in this convcrfation, as he underflood more of the language than the reft of the crew, and was on that account greatly valued by the natives.    The confidence which thefe people placed in us, and their familiar, unrefcrved behaviour, gave us infinite fat is faci ion, as it contrafied fo well with the conduci: of the people of Aitepeha.    We now faw the character of the natives in a more favourable light than ever, and were convinced that the remembrance of injuries, and the fpirit of revenge, did not enter into the com-pofition of the good and fimple Taheitians.   It muft furely be a comfortable reflection to every fenfible mind, that philanthropy feems to be natural to mankind, and that the favage ideas of diftruft, malevolence, and revenge, are only the confequences of a gradual depravation of manners. There are few inftanccs where people, who are not abfo-lately funk to a fiate of barbarifm, have acted contrary to this general peaceable principle.    The difcoveries of Columbus,  Cortez, and Pizarro in America, and thofe of Mendanna, Quiros, Schouten, Tafman     and Wallis in the South Sea, agree in this particular.   It is highly probable,
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 176, 179. X We except the favages of New Zeeland.
Vol. I. T t that
.,77i*     that the attack which the Taheitians made upon the Dob phin, took its origin from fome outrage unknowingly committed by the Europeans ; and fuppofing it did not, if felf-prefervation be one of the firfl laws of nature, furely from all appearances thefe people had a right to look on our men as a fet of invaders, and what is more than all, to be apprchenfivc that even their liberty was at flake. When, after a fatal difplay of fuperior European force, they were convinced that nothing farther than a fhort flay for refrefhment was intended, that the flrangers who came among, them were not entirely dcflitude of humane and equitable, fentiments ; in fhort, when they found that Brirons were, not more favage than themfelves, they were ready to open their arms to them, they forgot that they had had a difference, and bid them partake of each kindly production of their ifle.   They all exerted themfelves in acts of hofpitality and teflimonies of friendfhip from the lowefl fubject: to the queen, that every one of their guefts might have reafon to fay, he regretted his departure from this friendly, fhore :
Invitus, regina, tuo de lìtore ceffi! Virgil»
G II A ft
A  VOYAGE   ROUND   T II E   WORLD. |y
»773-
C H A P. IX*.
Account of our Tranfactiom at Matavai Bj\\
ijf""^APTAIN Cook, in his voyage in the Endeavour, had Thurfi»ay»«.
obferved that, in order to obtain a fuflicient fupply of refreshments at Matavai Bay, it was abfolutely neceflary to conciliate the favour of the fovcreign, -unlefs peaceable mcafures were entirely to be rejected, and the tragedies of former times be repeated. With this view he refolved to begin his operations here in the morning, by going to the province of O-Parrc, where king O-Too redded. He did not, however, leave the fhip till Maratata and his wife had been on board agreeable to their promife. In return for the prefents which they had received the evening before, they gave fome pieces of their bed cloth to the captain, and were very proud to be admitted into the great cabin, while the rei! of their countrymen were obliged to day without. As foon as Captain Furneaux was come on board from the Adventure, Captain Cook embarked in the pinnace with him, accompanied by Doctor Sparrman, my father, and myfelf. Maratata, without any ceremony, likewife came in with his wife, and immediately occupied the bed place in the dern. A croud of attendants followed them, till the boat was fo full, that our people found it impoflible to ply
T t 2 their
their oars.   The greater part of thefe unbidden guefls were therefore obliged to leave it, to their vifible difappoint-ment ; for they feemed to have fet a great value upon the liberty of fitting in our boat, which was frelli painted, and had a pleafant green awning to fkreen us from the fun. We rowed acrofs the bay, and approached the fhore near a point where a thick fhrubbery furrounded a marai of flone, fuch as we had already obferved in Aitepeha.    This cerne* tery and place of worfhip was known to Captain Cook by the name of Tootahah's marai, but when he called it by this name, Maratata interrupted him, intimating that it was no longer Tootahah's after his death, but was known at prefent as O-Too's marai.   A fine moral for princes, daily reminding them of mortality whilft they live, and teaching them that after death they cannot even call the ground their own which their dead corfe occupies !—The chief and his wife on paffing by it, took their upper garment from their fhoulders, which is a mark of refpecT. indifcriminately paid at the marai by all ranks of people, and feems to annex a particular idea of fanciity to thefe places.   Perhaps they are fuppofed to be favoured with the more immediate prefence of the Deity, agreeably to the opinion that has been entertained of public places of wor-fliip at all times and among all nations.
After paffing the marai, we rowed for fome time clofe along one of the finefl diflricts of O-Taheitee, where the
plains
plains feemed to be very fpacious, and the mountains ran aÌg^t. with a very eafy ilope into a long point.    A prodigious number of inhabitants lined the fhores, which were covered with graffcs, and fhaded with numerous palms clofe to the water's edge.   Here we landed, amidfl the joyful acclamations of the multitude, and were conducted to a group of houfes, hid under fpreading fruit-trees.   Before one of the largefl we faw an area twenty or thirty yards fquare, fur-rounded by an enclofure of reeds, not above eighteen inches high, in the middle of which the king was feated crofs-legg-ed on the ground, in a great circle of perfons of both fexes, who feemed to be of the higheft rank in the iiland from their ftature, colour and deportment.   Some of our failors laid down a number of prefents before him, which ferved as Captain Cook's credentials.    We all followed, and were intreated to fit down around the king.   The refpecT which was paid to the fovereign by all ranks of people, and which confined in uncovering the moulders in his prefencc, did not prevent them from thronging around us on all fides with the greatefl eagernefs of curiofity.   The croud was beyond comparifon more numerous than at our interview with Aheatua, and the king's attendants in different corners of the area were obliged to exert themfelves in order to keep them within bounds.    One in particular difplayed his activity in a furious manner to clear the way for us,
hy
by beating them unmercifully, breaking feveral flicks 6ft their heads, and no doubt breaking their heads too.
E come quel eh' ancor de la pazzìa Non era ben guarito interamente ; Per allargare innanzi al Re la via, Menava quella mazza fra la gente, CV un imbriaco fvizzero paria Di quei, che con villan modo infoiente, Sogliono innanzi '1 Papa il dì di fella,
Rompere a chi le braccia, a chi la tetta, 'Tassoni,
Notwithstanding this fevere treatment, they returned a'ar obflinately to the charge as an Englifh mob, but bore the infolcnce of the king's officers with more patience. The king of O-Taheitee had never feen our people during captain Cook's firfl voyage, probably in confequence of the political views of his uncle Tootahah, who at that time had the whole management of affairs in his hands, and who might be apprehenfive of lofing his confequence among the Europeans, if they fhould once know that he was not the greatefl man on the ifland. Whether Tootahah's power was to be confidcrcd as an ufurpation, or not, is not cafily to be determined ; fo much however may be allcdged againfl him, that the king himfelf feemed to us to be a man of twenty-four or twenty-five years of age. O-Too was the tallefl man whom we faw on the whole ifland which he governs, meafuring fix feet and three inches in height. His whole body was proportionately flrong and well-made,
without
without any tendency to corpulence. His head, notwithstanding a certain gloominefs which feemed to exprefs a fearful difpofition, had a majeflic and intelligent air, and there was great exprefhon in his full black eyes. He wore flrong whiikcrs, which with his beard, and a prodigious growth of curled hair, were all of a jetty black. His portrait is engraved from Mr. Hodges's drawing, for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The fame habit of. body, and the fame lingular quantity of hair, which ftood puffed up all about the head intricately entwined and curled, characierifed his brothers, one a, youth of about fixteen, another ten years of age, and likewife his fillers, of which the cldeft now prefent feemed about twenty-fix. The women of O-Taheitee in general, cut their hair rather fhort ; it was therefore a very uncommon appearance on the heads of thefe ladies, and may, for ought we know, be a privilege rcferved only to thofe of the royal family. Their rank, however did not exclude them from the general etiquette of uncovering the fhouiders in the king's prefencc, a ceremony which afforded the whole fox numberkfs opportunities of difplaying an elegant figure to the greatefl advantage. The fimple drapery of a long white piece of cloth, like a muflin, was to be turned an hundred different ways, according to the convenience, or the talents and fine tafle of the wearer ; no general fafhions force them to disfigure, in-flead of adorning themfelves, but an innate graccfulncfs
was
Aurusr    was tne comPani°n of fimplicity.   The only perfori exempted from the general cufiom of uncovering the moulder was the king's Boti*, one of his fervants, whom we could not better compare than to the lord in waiting, and of whom wc understood there were twelve who officiated by turns.   Some of them were the fame gentlemen who had difplayed their dexterity before, by dealing out hearty blows to the crowd.   The number of uncles, aunts, coufins, and other relations of his majefly, amongil whom we were feated, vied with each other in bellowing kind looks upon us, making profeflions of friendfhip, and—begging for beads and nails.   The methods to obtain thefe trifles from us were very different, and confequently not always equally fuccefsful.   When we diftributcd a few beads to one fet of people, fome young fellows would impudently thruft their hands in between them, and demand their fhare, as though it had been their due ; thefe attempts we always made it our bufinefs to difcourage by a flat refufal.    It was already become difficult to deny a venerable old man, who with a hand not yet palficd by age, vigoroufly preffed ours, and with a perfect reliance upon our good nature, whifpered the petition in our ears.   The elderly ladies in general made furc of a prize, by a little artful flattery. They commonly enquired for our names, and then adopted
* Sec Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 243. eowa no Yearee, by which is meant e-boa no te aree, (a friend to the king.)
US
us as their fons, at the fame time introducing to us the feveral relations, whom we acquired by this means. After a feries of little careffes, the old lady began, Alma poe-eetee no te tayo mettua ? " Have you not a little bead for your kind mother ?" Such a trial of our filial attachment always had its defired effect, as we could not fail to draw the mofl favourable conclufions from thence in regard to the general kind difpofition of the whole people : for to expect a good quality in others, of which we ourfelves are not poffefled, is a refinement in manners peculiar to polifhed nations. Our other female relations in the bloom of youth, with fome filare of beauty, and conflant endeavours to pleafe, laid a claim to our affections by giving themfelves the tender name of fillers ; and all the world will agree thac this attack was perfectly irrefiflible.
In a little time wc met with an ample return for our prefents, efpecially from the ladies, who immediately fent their attendants (Towtows) for large pieces of their beft cloth, dyed of a fcarlet, rofe, or flraw colour, and perfumed with their choiccfl fragrant oils. Thefe they put over our cloathes, and loaded us fo well that we found it difficult to move in them. A variety of queftions concerning Ta-bane (Mr. Banks), Tolano (Dr. Solander), and many of their former acquaintances, immediately followed the more material bufinefs of receiving prefents ; but Tupaya (Tupia) or as he was more commonly called Parua, notwithflanding
Vol. I. U u the
aJgust. t^ie extenmre knowledge of which he feems to have been poffeffed, and which we expected fhould have endeared him to his countrymen, was only mentioned by one or two perfons, who received the news of his death with perfect indifference. Whilfl we were engaged in this converfation, our Highlander performed on the bag-pipe to the infinite fatisfaction of all the Taheitians, who liflened to him with a mixture of admiration and delight. King O-Too in particular was fo well pleafed with his mufical abilities, which I have already obferved were mean enough, that he ordered him a large piece of the coarfer cloth as a reward for his trouble.
As this vifit was merely a vifit of ceremony, we foon got up to return to our boat, but were detained a little longer by the arrival of E-Happai* the father of the fovereign. He was a tall, thin man, with a grey beard and hair, feemed to be of a great age, but was not yet entirely worn out. He received the prefents which our captains made him, in a cold carelefs manner, which is natural to old people whofe fenfes are confiderably impaired. The accounts of former voyagers had already apprifed us of that flrange conflittition, by virtue of which the fon affumes the fovereignty in his father's life time f, but we could not without furprize, behold the aged Happai,
* See Hawkefworth, vol, II. p. 154.   Whappai. + Ibid, p. J54»
naked
nuked to the waift in his ion's prefcncc, conform to the Al^"sV general cufiom. Thus the ideas univcrfally annexed to confanguinity, are fuppreffcd in order to give greater weight to the regal dignity, and I cannot help thinking that fuch a facriìice to political authority, argues a greater degree of civilization than has been allowed to the Taheitians by our former navigators. However, though Happai was not invefled with the fupreme command, his birth and rank entitled him to deference from the common people, and to a proper fupport from the king. The province or diftrici: of O Parre, was therefore under his immediate orders, and fupplied not only his wants, but thofe alfo of his attendants. After a very fhort flay with this old chief, we parted from him, and from the king his fon, and returned on board in the pinnace, which Maratata had occupied during the whole time of our interview, priding himfelf very much on his fuppofed interefl with us. During our abfence feveral tents had been erected on Point Venus, for the convenience of our wood-cutters and wa-terers, and the fick of the Adventure. The aflronomcrs of both veffels had likewife fixed their obfervatory nearly on the fame fpot, where Mr. Green and captain Cook had obferved the tranfit of Venus. We found a great number of inhabitants about the vefTels, and among the reft feveral of the better fort of people, who having accefs to all parts of the fhip, followed every body with their petitions for
U u 2 beads
avg7ust. beads and other prefents. The captains to evade their endlefs importunities went on fhore to the tents, and thither we accompanied them in order to fee what natural productions the country afforded. Another excurfion of the fame kind was made in the afternoon, but as both were confined to an inconfidcrable diftance, our difcoveries only confided of a few plants and birds which we had not feen at Aitepeha.
Friday 27. The next morning very early, a number of canoes came to the fhip from Parre, and in one of the fmalleft, the king in perfon brought many prefents to captain Cook. A live hog, a very large fifh called a cavalha (fcomber hippos), and an albecore ready dreffed, about four feet long, with many bafkets of palm-leaves containing breadfruit and bananas, were handed up to the deck fucceilivcly. Captain Cook flood on the fhip's fide, entreating his majefly to come on board, but he did not flir from his feat, till an immenfe quantity of the bcfl cloth of the country had been wrapped round the captain, encreafing his bulk to a prodigious dimenfion. After this ceremony, Too, with a countenance which betrayed a good deal of diffidence, ventured to come upon the quarter-deck, and embraced the captain, who in conjunction with his officers and ourfelves, devifed all pofTiblc means to quiet thefe appre-henfions. Our quarter-deck was now fo crouded with the king's .relations, that he was requeflcd to come into the
cabin ;
cabin ; but the defcent between decks was fo hazardous an cnterprize according to his ideas, that he could by no means be prevailed on to attempt it, till he had fent down his brother, a fine active youth about fixteen years of age, who placed a perfect confidence in us. Having reconnoitred the cabin, and finding it to his liking, he made his report accordingly to the king, who immediately ventured down. He received a great number of valuable prefents from carJtain Cook, who began to find himfelf very warm under his load of cloth. The principal people accompanied his majefly into the cabin, but they crouded in fo fa ft, that it was almoft impof-fible to ft ir for them. Every one of thefe, as I have already mentioned, chofe his particular friend amongft us, and reciprocal gifts fealed every new connection. Captain Furneaux being arrived on board, we took an opportunity of fitting down to our breakfaft, when they feemed perfectly eafy, having prevailed on them to feat themfelves on chairs, which flruck them with their novelty and convenience. The king paid great attention to our breakfaft, which was a mixture of Englifh and Taheitian provifions, and was muc- rifeci to fee us drink hot-water *, and eat bread-fruit with oil ]. Though he could not be perfuaded to tafle our food, feveral of hie attendants were not fo cautious, but eat and drank very heartily of whatever we fet
* Tea. t Butter.
before
before them. After breakfaft O-Too faw my father's fpa-niel, a fine dog, but in very bad order at that time, and very dirty from the pitch, tar, and other uncleanlinefs on board the fhip. Notwithflanding thefe defects, the king expreffed a great defire of becoming his mailer, and made a requeft to that purpofe, which was readily complied with. He immediately commanded one of the lords in waiting, or hhas, to take the dog into his cuftody; and in conformity to his orders, this man ever after carried the dog behind his majefly. The king foon after told captain Cook that he wifhed to return on fliore, and went on deck with all his attendants, carrying with him the prefents which he had received. Captain Furneaux took that opportunity of prefenting to him a fine pair of goats, male and female, which he had brought from on board his own velTel the fame morning. We fucceeded very well in our attempt to make him comprehend the value of thefe animals, and the manner of treating them ; for he promifed that he would never kill nor fcparate them, and take great care of their offspring. The pinnace was now ready, and the king embarked in it, with the captains and feveral other gentlemen, and proceeded to the royal refidence at O-Parre. During this paffage he appeared highly contented, afked a number of queftions, and feemed to have entirely conquered his former fears. His enquiries chiefly concerned the goats, which had attracted all his attention, and we
could
could never tell him too often what they mould feed upon, Ai7f^;t and how they were to be managed. As foon as we came on lhore, we pointed out to him a fine fpot of ground, covered with a good bed of graffes, in the (hade of breadfruit trees, and defired that the goats might always be kept in fuch places. At our landing the more was crouded with people, who expreffed their joy on feeing their fove-reign by loud acclamations. Among them we difecrned the late Tootahah's mother, a venerable grey-headed matron, who, on feeing captain Cook, ran to embrace him, as the friend of her deceafed fon, and wept aloud at the remembrance of her lofs. We paid the tribute of admiration due to fuch feniibility, which endears our fellow-creatures to u3 vvherever it is met with, and affords an undeniable proof of the original excellence of the human heart.
From hence we haflened away to our tents at Point Venus, where the natives carried on a regular trade with vegetables of all forts, which fold at very low rates, a fingle bead being given for a balket of bread-fruit or a bunch of coco-nuts. My father there met his friend O Wahow, who prefented him with a great quantity of fruit, fome filli, fonie good cloth, and fome mother of pearl hooks. This prefent deferved a compenfation, but the generous T^heitian abfolutely refufed to take any thing, faying that he gave thefe things as a friend, and without any lucrative view.   It feemed as if every thing
had
had confpired this day to give us a favourable idea of the amiable nation among whom we refided.
We returned on board to dinner, and palTed the afternoon there in the occupations of defcribing and drawing objects of natural hiftory. The decks in the mean while were conflantly crouded with natives of both fexes, prying into every corner, and Healing whenever they found an opportunity. In the evening we beheld a fcene new and finking to ourfelves, though familiar to thofe who had been at Taheitee before. A great number of women of the lowcfl: clafs, having been previoufly engaged by our failors, remained on board at fun-fet, after the departure of all their country people to the fhore. We had obferved inilances of the venality of the Taheitian females at Aitepeha j but whatever might have been their condefcenfion towards our people in day-time, they had never ventured to pafs a night on board. The women of Matavai had fludied the difpofitions of Britifli feamen much better, and knew that they ran no riik by entrufling themfelves to their care ; but on the contrary might make fu re of every bead, nail, hatcher, or fhirt which their lovers could mufter. This evening was therefore as completely dedicated to mirth and plcafurc, as if wc had lain at Spithead inilcad of O-Tahcitce. Before it was perfectly daik the women affcmbled on the forecadle, and one of them blowing a flute with the noftrilej all the refi danced a variety of
dances
tlinccs ufual in their country, amoncft which there were |773«
* ù August.
fome that did not exactly correfpond with our ideas of decency. However, if we eonfider that the fimplicity of their education and of their drefs, makes many actions perfectly innocent here, which, according to our cufioms, would he blameable, wc cannot impute that degree of unbounded liccntioufnefs to them, with which the prollitutcs of civilized Europe are unhappily reproached. As foon as it was dark they retired below decks, and if their lovers were of fuch a quality as to afford them frefh pork, they flipped without rcferve, though they had before refufed to eat in the prefencc of their owrn countrymen, agreeably to that incomprchenfiblc cufiom which feparates the fexes at their meals. The quantities of pork which they could confume were aflonifhing, and their greedinefs plainly indicated that they were rarely if ever indulged with that delicious food in their own families. The inflances of fenfibility in Tootahah's mother and in O-Wahow, and the favourable ideas which we had from thence formed of the Taheitians were fo recent in our memories, that we were much hurt at the fight of thefe creatures, who had entirely forgot the duties of life, and abandoned themfelves to the brutal fwTay of the paffions. That there fhould exifl fo great a degree of immorality in a nation, otherwife fo happy in its fimplicity, and in the fewnefs of its wants, is a reflection very dif-graceful to human nature in general, which, viewed to its Vol. I. X x greatefl
AjtouVt    greatefl: advantage here, is neverthelefs imperfect.    Is it not to be lamented, that the beft gifts of a benevolent Creator feem to be the moft liable to frequent abufc, and that nothing is fo eafy to mankind as error? Saturday zt.       Early the next morning O Too, with his filler Tedua-Towrai, and feveral relations, came along fide, and fent up a hog and a large albccore into our vefTel, but would not come on board.   He had a fimilar prefent for captain Furneaux, but refufed to go to the Adventure till my father went with him.    The ceremony of fwaddling the captain in O-Taheitec cloth was performed again before his majefly ventured on board ; but that being over, he feemed to think himfelf fafe amongft us, and came on the deck, where captain Furneaux gave him a variety of prefents. His filler Tedua-Towrai" was on board the Refolution in the mean while, and all the women paid her the fame rcfpect by uncovering the fhoulders, which the whole nation owes to the" king.    The active youth I'-ìwWatow, who was with the king his brother, had the fame honours paid to him; and it appeared to us that the title Aree, though common to all the chiefs of ditlricts, and the nobility in crenc-ral, was yet applied by way of excellence to the perfons of the royal family.   O-Too foon left the Adventure, rejoined his fiftcr on board the Refolution, and was accompanied by both the captains to Parre,
On
On the 2 9th at day break wc landed at our tents, and proceeded into the country with an intention to examine its productions. A copious dew, which had fallen during night, had rcfrefhed the whole vegetable creation, and contributed, together with the early hour of the morning, to make our walk extremely pleafant. We found but few natives at the tents, fome of whom attended us to the ford in the river, and for a bead a-piece carried us acrofs, where it was twenty yards wide, without our wetting a foot. As we entered the grove, we perceived the inhabitants in their houfes jutl getting up, and faw many of them performing their cuftomary ablution in the adjacent river of Matavai. There can be no doubt, that frequent bathing in this warm climate is extremely falutary, and particularly in the morning, when the water, being frefh and cool, cannot but be highly inftrumental in bracing the fibres, which might otherwifc become too much relaxed. The cleanlinefs which remits from this cuftom, is certainly one of the bed prcfervatives againft putrid disorders, and has the farther advantage of making thefe people enjoy the comforts of fociety in a higher degree than thofe favages who feem to fliun the water, and become indifferent to each other, and loathfome to ilrangers by their fqualid appearance, and fetid exhalations. We walked on till we came to a little hut, the lowly dwelling of a poor widow with a numerous family.    Her cldeft fon, Noona, a lively boy
X x 2 about
about twelve years old, had always been particularly attached to the Europeans, and being extremely quick of ap-prehenfion, underflood us much better at half a word, than many of his countrymen with all the geflures we could invent, and after we had ranfacked our vocabularies. This boy, who, with a dark almoft chefnut-brown colour, combined a fet of pleating, good-natured features, had agreed the evening before, to become our guide on this day's ex-curfion.   At our approach we found his mother, who had provided a number of coco-nuts and fome other provifion3-for us, fitting on the flones before her cottage, and her children affemblcd about her, the youngeft of which was not above four years old.    She feemed to be active enough, but however of fuch an age, that we had fonie difficulty to believe her the mother of fuch young children, in a country where we knew that the commerce of the fexes begins at an early age.   The arrival of a well-looking woman, about three or four and twenty years old, who was Noona's eldcft lifter, foon accounted for the wrinkles on her mother's brow.    Inflead of verifying the general ob-fervation, that women in hot countries lofe their fightlinefs much fooner than with us, we had now reafon to be fur-prifed, that  they mould be fo prolific here, as to bear children during a period of almoft twenty years.    It was natural that our thoughts mould return ro the happy fimplicity in which the life of the Taheitians fmoothly rolls
along,
along, and which, unditlurbcd by cares and wants, is the caule of the great population of their illand.
A flout fellow, whom wc hired for a few beads, carried the provifions which the hofpitable old woman had offered us, fufpending them in equal portions on the two extremities of a flrong pole, about four feet long, which he placed on his moulder. Young Noona, and his little brother Toparree, about four years old, cheerfully accompanied us, after ■■ we had enriched the whole family with beads, nails, looking-glaffes, and knives.
The firfl part of our march was a little difficult, on account of a hill on which we mounted, in hopes of meeting with fomcthing to reward our trouble. But, contrary to our expectations, we found it entirely deflitute of plants,, two dwarfifh fhrubs, and a fpecics of dry fern excepted. Here, however, we were much furprifed to fee a large flock of wild ducks rifing before us, from a fpot which was perfectly dry and barren, without our being able to imagine what had brought them thither from the reeds and marfhy banks of the river, where they commonly rcfided. We foon croffed another hill, where all the ferns and bufhes having lately been burnt, blackened our clothes as wc paffed through them. From thence wc defcended into a fertile valley, where a fine rivulet, which we were obliged to crofs feveral times, ran towards the fea. The natives had placed feveral flone weirs acrofs this rivulet, in order
to
to raife the water, which might by that means be introduced into their plantations of the tarro, or eddy-root (arum efculentum,) that requires a very marfhy, and fometimes an inundated foil.    We found two fpecies of it, one of which has large gloffy leaves, and roots about four feet long, but is very coarfe ; the other with velvet leaves and fmall, but more palatable roots.   Both are exceflively pungent and cauflic, till boiled in feveral waters ; however, hogs eat them raw without any reluctance.   The valley became narrower as we advanced up along the rivulet, and the hills which included it were much flcepcr, and covered with forefls.    Every part of the level ground was, however, planted with coco-nut, apple, and bread-fruit trees, with bananas, cloth-trees, and various roots, and a number of houfes were conveniently fituated at fhort diftances from each other.   In different parts we met with immenfe beds of loofe pebbic-flones  in the rivulet and on its banks, which feemed to have been wafhed out of the mountains, and worn into round or oblong fhapes, by the continual motion and agitation of the1 water.    On the fides of the hills we gathered feveral new plants, fometimes at the rifk of breaking our necks, on account of the pieces of rock which rolled away under our feet.    A great number of inhabitants affcmbled about us, and among them feveral who brought   us   abundance  of  coco-nuts,   bread-fruit, and apples for fale.   We bought as much as we thought neceflary
ceiTary for our provifion, and hired fome of the natives to carry it. After proceeding up about five miles from the fea-fide we fat down in the Iliade of a number of trees, on a pleafant green turf, and made our meal, which confided of the fruit we had purchafed, and of fome pork and fifli which we had taken from on board. The natives formed a circle round us ; but thofe who had been our guides and aiTiilants were permitted to fit by us, and partook of our cheer with a very good appetite. They were moll furpriied at the fait, which we had taken care to provide, and which they faw us eat with all forts of victuals, bread-fruit not excepted. Some of them were dc-firous of tailing it, and among thefe there were a few who leliQied it very well, becaufe they are ufed to employ fea-water as a fauce both to fifh and to pork*.
It was about four o'clock in the afternoon, when we thought of returning to the fea-fide with our acquifitions. About this time a number of inhabitants came acrofs the hills with loads of horfe-plantancs, a coarfe fort, which grows alinoli without cultivation, and which they brought for fale to our mips. We followed them along the fide of the rivulet to a place where fome children offered us a few little prawns picked out between the Hones in the bed of the river. We had no (boner taken them as a curiofny,  and rewarded the  children with beads, than,
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II, p. 200, 20J.
upwards.
upwards of fifty perfons of different ages and fexcs fet about the fame employment, and brought us fo many of thefe little creatures, that we were foon obliged to refufe them.   In the fpace of two hours we reached our tents on Point Venus,  where  we found O-Wahow, the generous native  who had brought my father another  prefent of provifions.    In the courfe of this walk, we had obferved more idle perfons than at Aitepeha ; the houfes and plantations appeared more ruinous and neglected, and from feveral people inftcad of invitations, or marks of hofpitality, we only received importunate petitions for beads and nails.    Still upon the whole we had great reafon to be contented with our reception among them, and the liberty of roaming at pleafure through all parts of their delightful country.   We had now and then experienced their difpofition to theft, but had never loft any thing of value j for our handkerchiefs, which were the eaficft to come at, were made of their own thinner cloth, fo that they found themfelves difappointed as often as they had dextroufly picked our pockets, and with great good humour returned them to us.    In my opinion this vice is not of fo heinous a nature among the Taheitians, as amongft ourfelves. People whofe wants are fo eafily fatisfied, and in whofe manner of living there is fo much equality, can have very few motives to ftcal from each other, and their open houfes without doors and bars,  arc fo many proofs of mutual
fafety
fafety.   The blame then lies in a great meafurc upon us, «7.^ for bringing temptations in their way too powerful to be withftood.   They feem indeed not to think their tranfgref-fions of great fignification, perhaps from a reflection that they do not materially injure us by any little larceny.
During our abfence the captains had paid a vifit to the king at Parre, where they were highly entertained by the fight of a dramatic dance, which her royal highnefs Tow-rai performed, in a drefs exactly defcribed in captain Cook's former voyage, and with the fame geftures which are there mentioned *. Two men danced at dliferent intervals, when the princefs relied, and, with many flrange distortions, fpoke or fung fome words, probably relative to the fubject of their dance, which was unintelligible to our people. The whole entertainment laded about an hour and a half, during which Tedua Towrai diiplayed a wonderful activity, which furpaffed every thing that had been feen at the ifle of Ulietca in the former voyage.
Early the next morning captain Cook fent lieutenant Monday 3o Pickerfgill to the fouth-weft part of the ifland, in order to purchafe fome frefh, provifion, and particularly fome hogs, of which we had hitherto received only two from the king. We continued on board the whole day, defcribing the plants which we had found on our laft excurfion.   In the even-
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 264, 265.  See alfo the plate No. 7. though that conveys no idea of Taheitians.
Vol. I. Y y ing,
ing, about ten o'clock, we heard a great noife on more abreaft of our vefTcls, apparently occafioned by fome of our men. The captains immediately fent their boats afhore, with proper officers, who brought on board feveral marines and a failor. They had obtained leave to take a walk from the commanding officer at the tents, but had exceeded their time, and beaten one of the natives. They were immediately fecurcd in irons, as it was of the utmofl confequence towards continuing upon an amicable footing with this nation, to punifh them in an exemplary manner. O-Too had promifed to come on board with his father the next morning, but this noife, of which he had received advice within half an hour after it had happened, made him fo juftly diffident of our intentions, that he fent his meffenger or ambaffador (Whanno no t'aree*,) who was one of the principal lords of his court, named E-Tee, to make an apology for his non-appearance. Before he came on board, however, Dr. Sparrman went on fhore with me near the place where the difturbance had happened, with a view to make another excurfion into the interior parts of the country. O-Whaw f, the old man, who had on former occafions {hewed his pacific difpofition, met us on the beach, and fpoke of the offence of the laft night not without exprefling fome difpleafure ; but when we affured him that the of-
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 243.
t See before, p. 412; and Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 83, 90, 9f.
fenders
fenders were in irons, and would be fcverely punifhcd, he feemed perfectly fatisfied. As we had nobody from the veffel to a ili ft us, we defired O-Whaw to point out a native whom we might entruft with the botanizing apparatus. Several people having offered their fervices, he chofe a flrong well-made man, who was immediately furnifhed with an empty bag, for the reception of plants, and with fome bafkets full of Taheitee apples, which we had pur-chafed on the fpot. We croflèd One-tree-hill, and descended into one of the firfl vallies of O-Parre, where we were gratified with the fight of one of the mofl beautiful trees in the world, which we called the Barringtonia. It had a great abundance of flowers, larger than lilies and perfectly white, excepting the tips of their numerous chives, which were of a bright crimfon. Such a quantity of thefe flowers were already dropped off, that the ground underneath the tree was intirely flrewed with them. The natives called the tree huddoo, and allured us that the fruir, which is a large nut, when bruifed, mixed up with fome fhelbfifh, and flrewed into the fea, intoxicates or poifons the fifh for fome time, fo that they come to the fur face of the water and fuffer themfelves to be taken with the hands. It is fingular that various maritime plants in tropical climates have fuch a quality; the coccidl indict, in particular, are well known and ufed for that purpofe in the Eafl-Indies, We were unwilling to defer the examination of fo remark-
Y y 2 able
ble a plant till after our return on board, and therefore retired to a neat houfe, built up of reeds, round which feveral odoriferous fhrubs and fome very fine coco-trees were planted.    The owner, with that hofpitality which I have already often celebrated, fent a boy up one of the tallefl palms to procure us fome of the nuts, which he performed with furprizing agility.   He tied a piece of the tough rind of a banana flalk to both his feet, in fuch a manner that they could j ufi encompafs the tree on both fides, the piece of rind ferving as a fort of ftep or refi, whilft he lifted himfelf higher with his hands.   The natural growth of the coco-palm, which annually forms a kind of elevated ring on the flem, certainly facilitated the boy's afcent, but the quicknefs and cafe with which he walked up and down were really admirable.   We fhould have ill deferved this mark of kindnefs and attention if we had not made our hoft a little prefent at parting, and rewarded the boy for the plea fu re which wc had felt in obferving his dexterity.
From hence we proceeded up the valley, which having no rivulet in its middle, began to rife in proportion as we advanced. We refolvcd therefore to go upon the fteep hill on our left, and with much difficulty accomplifhed our plan. Our Taheitian friend langhed at us, when he faw us faint with fatigue, and fitting down every moment to recover our breath.   We heard him blow or breathe flowly
but
but very hard, with open mouth, as he walked behind us ; au7gust. we therefore tried the fame experiment, which nature had probably taught him, and found it anfwered much better than our fhort panting, which always deprived us of breath.  At laft we reached the ridge of the hill, where a fine breeze greatly refrefhed us, after our fatiguing afcent. When we .had walked upwards along that ridge for fome time, expofed to the burning rage of the fun, reverberated from all parts of the barren foil, we fat down under the fcanty iliade of a folitary pandang, or palm-nut tree*, which was at this time acceptable even to our friendly native. The profpect from hence was delightful ; the reef which fur rounded O-Taheitee, the bay with the fhips, and numerous canoes, and the whole plain of Matavai with its beautiful objects, lay as it were under our feet, while the meridian fun threw a Ready and calm light  on the whole land fea pe. At the diflance of about fix leagues, the low ifland called Tedhuroa, appeared before us, forming a little circular ledge of rocks, covered with a few palms ; and far beyond it the immenfe ocean bounded the view.   The Taheitian who was with us, pointed out the direction of all the neighbouring iflands which were not in fight at prefent, and informed us of their produce, whether they were high or low, inhabited or  only occafionally vifned. Tedhuroa,
* Pandanus.  Rumph. Herbar. Amboin.—JthrodaftyUs. Forft. Nov. Gen. Piantar.—Keura. FbrflBaJ,
which
levir. which we faw was of the laft fort, and two canoes with their fails fet, were at that time returning from thence, where our guide informed us they often went to catch filli in the lagoon. Having relied a little while, we advanced up towards the interior mountains, which now appeared diftinctly before us. The rich groves which crowned their fummits, and filled thevallies between them, invited us to advance, and promifed to reward our prefevcrance with a load of new productions. But we foon perceived a number of barren hills and vallies which lay between us and thofe defireable forefts, and found it was in vain to attempt to reach them this day. We confulted amongft ourfelves, whether we fhould venture to pafs a night on thefe hills, but this was unadvifeable, on account of the uncertainty of the time when our fhips were to fail, and likewife impracticable for want of provifions.—Our Taheitian told us, we mould meet with no inhabitants, dwelling, or provifions on the mountains, and pointed out a narrow path which led down the fteep fide of the hill into the valley of Matavai. We began to defcend therefore, but found it more dangerous than when we came up : we flumbled every moment, and in many places were obliged to ilide down on our backs. Our flioes were rather a difadvantage to us, being made extremely flippery by the dry grafles over which we had walked, while the native with his bare feet was furprifingly fure-iboted.   In a fhort time we gave him our fowling-pieces,
to
to enable us to make ufe of our hands, and at lad we re-fumed them again, and letting him go before, leaned on his arm in the mofl difficult places. When wc were about half-way down, he hallooed very loud to fome people whom he faw in the valley ; but we did not believe at that time that they had heard him, efpecially becaufe he received no anfwer. However, prefently after we obferved feveral people coming up towards us, who afcended very faff, fo as to meet us in about half an hour. They brought us three frefh coco-nuts, which, whether they were really excellent in their kind, or whether our great fatigue recommended them to our tafle, wc looked upon as the beft we had ever emptied. The natives bid us reft a while, and told us that a little farther down they had left a number of coconuts, which they would not bring up left we fhould drink too haftily at firfl. Their precaution was very laudable, but our thirft made us very impatient till they would permit us to move forward. At laft we fet out, and coming on a more level ground, entered a delicious little fhrubbery, where we fat down in the frefh grafs, and indulged with the cool nectar which our friends had provided. This draught enabled us to come down into the valley, where we were prefently furrounded by a croud of the natives, and prepared to return with them over the plain to the fea-fide j when a well-looking man, accompanied by his daughter, a young girl about fixteen, invited us to his
houfe^
1773.     houfe which lay farther up, where he wifhed to entertain
aug u st. é 1
us with a dinner.   Though we were much exhaufled with fatigue, we agreed not to difappoint him, and returned about two miles along the delightful banks of the river Matavai, through groves of coco, bread-fruit, apple, and cloth-trees, and numerous plantations of bananas and eddoes. The river formed various windings in the valley from fide to fide, fo that we were obliged to crofs it feveral times, and our new holt with one of his fervants always infilled upon carrying us over on their backs.    At laft we arrived at his houfe, which was fituated on a little eminence, where the river gently murmured over a bed of pebbles.    An elegant mat was fpread for us on the dry grafs in a corner of the houfe, which was of the clofer fort, being walled in with reeds.   We were immediately fur-rounded by a great number of our friend's relations, who feated themfelves near us ; and his daughter, who in elegance of form, clcarnefs of complexion, and agreeable features,
equalled, if not furpaffcd the Taheitian beauties we had
1
hitherto feen, together with fome of her young companions, were very afliduous in their endeavours to be agreeable. The mofl efficacious remedy they employed befides their fmilcs, to recover us from the great wcarinefs which we felt, was to chafe our arms and legs with their hands, fqueezing the mnfclcs gently between the fingers and fhe paini.   Whether this operation facilitated the circulation
of
of the blood through the minuter veffels, or rcftored the over-drained mufeles to their natural clafticiry, I cannot determine j but its effect was certainly fo falutary, that our ftrcngth was perfectly reftorcd, and wc did not feel the leaft remaining inconvenience from the fatiguing journey of the day. Captain Wallis mentions a fimilar inftance of the excellence of this remedy, and of the beneficence of the inhabitants of Tahcitec *j and Ofbeck, in his voyage to China, defcribes this operation as a common practice among Chinefe barbers, who are faid to be very expert at it f. Mr. Grofe too, in his voyage to the Eaft Indies, gives a very circumftantial account of the art of champing, which feems to be a luxurious refinement upon this wholefome reftorative. It deferves to be mentioned here, that this ingenious author has given quotations from Martial and Seneca, which make it evident that the Romans were acquainted with this practice (-
Percurrjt agili corpus arte ta£tatri;c,
Manumque iio£tam fpargit omnibus mcmbris. Martial.
Wc had no longer reafon to complain of the want of appetite which had been the confequence of our fatigue j but as foon as our dinner was placed before us, confifting
* See Hawkefworth, vol. I. p. 463.
f See Ofbeck's and Torcen's Voyages to China, vol. I. p. 231. and II. p. 246. J See Grofe's Voyage, vol. I, p, 113.
Vol. I. Z z of
of vegetable food, fuitable to the frugal fimplicity of the natives, wc partook of it very heartily, and foon found ourfelves in as good fpirits as we had fet out with in the morning.    We paffed about two hours with this hofpitable family, and during that time diuributed the greatefl part of the  beads, nails, and knives which we had brought from the fhip   to   our   generous   hoft,   to   his fair daughter, and  her companions, whofe care had reflored our ftrcngth much fooner than we had a right to expect after fo laborious an expedition.   About three o'clock we fet out on our return, and walked paft numerous dwellings, whofe inhabitants enjoyed the beauty of the afternoon in various parties, under  the iliade of their fruit-trees.   In one of thefe houfes we obferved a man at work, in preparing a red dye, for fome cloth made of the bark of the paper-mulberry, which we commonly called the cloth-tree.    Upon enquiring for the materials which he made ufe of, we found to our great furprize that the yellow juice of a fmall fpecies of fig, which they call mattee, and the grcenifh juice of a fore of fern, or bind-weed, or of feveral other plants, by being fimply mixed together, formed a bright crimfon, which the women rubbed with their hands if the whole piece was to be uniformly of the fame colour, or in which they dipped a bamboo reed, if it was to be marked or fprinkled in different patterns.    This colour fades very foon and becomes of a dirty red, befides being
liable
liable to be fpoiled by rain and other accidents j the cloth, however, which is dyed or rather Rained with it, is highly valued by the Taheitians, and only worn by their principal people.   We bought feveral pieces of cloth of different kinds for beads and fmall nails, and then walked on till we arrived at the tents, which Rood at leafl five miles from the place where we had dined.   Here wc difcharged our trufly friend whom O-Whaw had recommended, and who had behaved with a degree of attachment and fidelity to us, which from the thievifh character of the nation we had no room to expect.   This behaviour was the more meritorious as our fituation frequently had afforded him excellent opportunities of running off with all our nails and knives, and with one of our fowling-pieces ; temptations which required an uncommon degree of honefly to with-fland.    We next embarked in one of the canoes which plied between the fhips and the fhore, and for a couple of beads were fafely brought on board.   Here we found the captain and my father jull returned from a long excurfion to the weftward.   E-Tee, the king's ambaffador, who arrived on board   immediately after  our  departure, had brought a prefent of a hog and fome fruit, but acquainted the captain that O-Too was matow, a term which at once cxpreffed that he was afraid and difpleafcd. To convince him that the outrages of laft night were not approved of, the offenders were brought to the gangway,
Z z 2 and
and received a dozen of lafhes in his prefence, to the great terror of all the Taheitians on board.   Captain Cook then ordering three wether-fheep from the Cape, which were all we had left, to be put in his boat, embarked with captain Furneaux and my father, in order to regain the confidence of O-Too, without which he knew that no provi-iions were to be bought in the country.   When they arrived at Parre, they were told that he was gone to the weftward ; accordingly they went after him, about four or five miles farther, and landing in a diftrict called Tittahàh, waited feveral hours for him there ; his fears having been fo ftrong, as actually to make him remove about nine miles farther from us than ufual.    There was fomething in this conduci: feemingly too much allied to cowardife ; but we mould likewife confider, that the power of Europeans had formerly been difplayed here in the terrific fhape of deftruetion.   It was three o'clock in the afternoon before he arrived with his mother ; he exprefling the moll manifeft fighs of fear and diftruft, and fhe with her eyes fwimming in tears.   The report of E-Tee, the prefent of a new kind of animals, and all poffible affurances of friendfliip on the part of our people, fucceeded to quiet their apprehenfions.   At the king's delire, the bagpiper was ordered to play before him, and his performance produced an effect limitar to that of David's harp, whofe harmonious founds foothed the atrabilarious temper of Saul. He
fent
fent for a hog, which was prefented to captain Cook ; and ammt, foon after for another, which he gave to captain Furneaux. The captains believing this to be the laft opportunity of obtaining prefents from him, defired that a third might he brought for Mat arra (my father's Taheitian name.) A little pig was given him, at which our people expreffed fome diflike ; upon this, one of the king's relations, in the afcending line, who are all ftyled Medooa (Father,) flep-ped forward from the throng, and fpoke very loud, with many violent geftures, to O-Too, pointing at our people, at the fheep they had prefented, and at the little pig which they had  received.    As foon as his fpeech was fmiihed, the pig was taken back again, and after a fhort interval a large hog brought in its Head.   Our people then produced their iron wares and a variety of trinkets, which they diflributed very freely; and in return were wrapped up in feveral ahòws, or pieces of Indian cloth.   They then took their leave of the whole court, and returned to their veffels about five o'clock.
Preparations were made for failing from this ifland the September.
Wednefdayj.
next morning, whilfl the natives crouded about us with fìlli, fliells, fruit, and cloth, of which we purchafed all that was to be had. Lieutenant Pickerfgili returned from his excurfion to the weftward about three in the afternoon. He had advanced beyond the fertile plains of Papa<ra, where
O-Ammo,
O Ammo*, who had once been the king of all Taheitee, refided with his fon the young T'-Jree Derre j\ He took up his firfl: night's lodging on the borders of a fmall di-f\ricTt, which was now the property of the famous queen O-Poorea (Oberea.) As foon as fhe heard of his arrival fhe haftcned to him, and met her old acquaintance with repeated marks of friendfhip. She had feparated from her hulband % fome time after the departure of captain Wallis, and was now entirely deprived of that greatnefs which had once rendered her confpicuous in fiory, and auguft in the eyes of Europeans §. The civil wars between the two pe-ninfulas of the iiland had flripped her, as well as the whole diftricì of Paparra, of the greatefl part of her wealth, fo that flic complained to the lieutenant that fhe was poor, (teeteej and had not a hog to give her friends. The next morning therefore they left her, and in their return touch* ed at Paparra, where they faw Ammo, who, after parting with O-Poorea, had taken one of the handfomeft young women of the country to his bed, and appeared to be aged and indolent. His fair one gave a hog to our people, and, with fome of her female attendants, flopped into the boat at their departure, and went the whole day with them, her own canoe attending to take her back again.
* Sec Hawkefworth, vol. II, p. 153, 154. Oamo. f Ibid. vol. II. p. 154, Terriàlrri.
% Ibid. vol. II. p. 154. § Ibid. vol. II, p. 106.
On
On this excurfion flic expreiTcd a great degree of curiofity, which feemed never to have been gratified before by the fight of Europeans, infomuch that fhe was doubtful whether they were formed at all points like her own countrymen, till her eyes removed every doubt.   With her they landed at Attahooroo, where a chief named Potatow* received them very cordially, and entertained them at his own houfe during the fecond night.   He too had parted with his wife Polatehèra, and taken a younger to his bed, while the lady had provided herfelf with a lover or a huf-band, and they all continued to live very peaceably in the fame family.   The next morning at parting Potatow pro-mifed to accompany Mr. Pickerfgill to Matavai, in order to vifit captain Cook, provided he might be fure of good treatment.   Mr. Pickerfgill allured him of the befl reception ; but the chief, for greater fafety, produced a few fmall yellow feathers, tied together into a little tuft, which he defired Mr. Pickerfgill to hold, whilft he repeated his promifc, u that Toòte (captain Cook) would be the friend " of Potatow."   This done, he carefully wrapped the feathers into a bit of Indian cloth, and put it in his turban. We knew, from former accounts, that red and yellow feathers were employed by the inhabitants of this ifland to fix their attention while they prayed to the Deity ; but this ceremony conveyed an idea of a folemn affirmation or oath,
which
sep7embb*. wriich was quite new to us.   Potatow was To wrell fatisficcl of the integrity of his friends, after this ceremony, that he and his wives, and feveral of their attendants, carrying with them two hogs and abundance of cloth, marched towards the boat, amidft an immenfe croud of people. He was, however, no fooner arrived at the water's fide, than the whole multitude eagerly prelTed him not to venture amongft our people, and clinging to his feet endeavoured to hold him back ; feveral women, with a flood of tears, repeatedly cried aloud that Toote would kill him as foon as he came on board ; and an old man, who, by living at the chief's own houfe, feemed to be a faithful fervant to the family, drew him back by the fkirts of his garment. Potatow was moved ; for a moment he exprelTed fome marks of  diffidence ;   but   inllantly   arming himfelf with   all   the refolution he was mailer of,  he thrufl the old man alide, exclaiming  " Toote aipa matte te tayo,' (Cook will not kill his friends !) and Hepped into the boat with an air of undaunted majelfy, that druck our Britons with aftonifhmerit.    As foon as he was on board the fhip, he defccnded into the cabin, accompanied by his wife JVhainee-ow, his former wife, and her friend, and brought his prefents to captain Cook.   Potatow was one of the talleri men we had feen upon the ifland, and his features were fo mild, comely, and at the fame time majeflic, that Mr. Hodges immediately applied himfelf to copy from them, as
from
\
from the nobleft models of nature. His portrait is infert-cd in captain Cook's own account of this voyage. His whole body was remarkably flrong and heavily built, fo that one of his thighs nearly equalled in girth our flouted failor's waid. His ample garments, and his elegant white turban, fet off his figure to the greateft advantage, and his noble deportment endeared him to us, as we naturally compared it with the diffidence of O-Too. Polatehera, his former wife, was fo like him in dature and bulk, that we unanimoudy looked upon her as the mod extraordinary woman we had ever feen. Her appearance and her con-duel: were mafculine in the higheft degree, and drongly conveyed the idea of fuperiority and command. When the Endeavour bark lay here, fhe had didinguifhed hcrfclf by the name of captain Cook's fider, (tuaheine no Tootejj and one day, being denied admittance into the fort on Point Venus, had knocked down the fentry who oppofed her, and complained to her adopted brother of the indignity which had been offered to her. After a fhort day, being told that we intended to get under way immediately, they afked, with every demonftration of friendfhip and with tears in their eyes, whether we intended to return. Captain Cook promifed to be here again in the fpace of feven months, with which they reded perfectly fatisfied, and departed immediately to the weftward, their own canoes having followed our boat all the way.
Vol. I. A a a In
«773. In the mean while a young Taheitian, of the common
clafs, who was very well made, and about feventeen years old, having talked to the captain of going no te whennua tei Bretane, (to the land of Britain,) for feveral days paft, had arrived on board with his father.    His whole equipment confided of a fmall piece of the Indian cloth wrapped about his loins ; fo entirely did he depend upon our care and protection.   Captain Cook gave his father, who feemed to be a middle aged man, a hatchet and fome prefents of lelTer value, with which he defcended into his canoe with great compofure and firmnefs, without manifeding any figns of grief.   We had fcarce cleared the reefs, when a canoe arrived with two or three natives, who demanded the youth back in the name of O-Too, and fhewed fome pieces of cloth which they intended as prefents to the captain : but as they could not produce the iron-work which he had bedowed on the poor fellow's account, they were obliged to return without him.   The youth, whofe name was Borea, fpoke to them, but would not leave us, though,, to terrify him, we underdood that they prefaged his death amongft us.   However, when they were at fome didance,, he looked wifhfully after them, leaned over the railing on the quarter-deck, and Ihed a flood of tears in an agony of grief.   To divert him from this gloomy mood, we took him into the cabin, where he complained that he muft furely die, and that his father would weep for his lofs.
Captain
Captain Cook and my father comforted him, faying they would be his fathers, upon which he hugged and kiifed them, and paffed from the extreme of defpondence by a quick tranfition to a great degree of chearfulnefs. About fun-fet he ate his fupper, and lay down on the floor of the cabin ; but feeing that we did not follow his example, he got up again, and remained with us till we had fupped.
It was with great regret that we daparted from this delightful ifland, at a time when we were jufl become acquainted with its happy inhabitants. We had only paffed fourteen days on its coafl, two of which had been fpent in removing from one port to the other. During this fhort fpace of time, wc had lived in a continual round of tumultuous occupations, which had left us little leifurc to fludy the nature of the people. An immenfe variety of objects relative to their ceconomy, their cuftoms and ceremonies, all which appeared new and interefling to us, had engaged our attention ; but we afterwards found moft of them had been obferved by former navigators. Thefe therefore, for fear of prefuming too far on the indulgence of my readers, I have omitted in this narrative, and refer for the particular defcriptions of the dwellings, drefs, food, domeftic amufements, boats and navigation, difeafes, religion, and funeral rites, wars, weapons, and government, to the hiflory of captain Cook's voyage in the Endeavour
A a a 2 baik
bark, compiled by Dr. Hawkefworth (vol. II. from page 184 to page 248). All the merit of the preceding pages concerning the ifle of Taheitee, mud therefore confiti in a few gleanings and elucidations on feveral fubjecrs. However, I am in hopes that the particular point of view in which I have beheld, and confequently reprefented circum-flances already familiar to the reader from former accounts, will not prove uninterefling, and may in feveral inflances fugge ft new and valuable reflections.
The breeze with which we failed was fo moderate, that we continued near the fhore the whole evening, and were able to diftinguifh the exuberant fcenery of the plain, beautiful enough, even at this dead feafon of winter, to vie with the richeft landfcapes, which nature has lavifhed on different parts of the globe. Its fertile foil, and genial climate, which produces all forts of nutritive vegetables almoft fpontaneoufly, infures the felicity of its inhabitants. Allowing for the imperfect fiate of fublunary happinefs, which is comparative at beft, there are not, I believe, many nations exifling whofe fituation is fo defirable. Where the means of fubfiflcncc are fo eafy, and the wants of the people fo few, it is natural that the great purpofe of human life, that of multiplying the number of rational beings, is not loaded with that multitude of miferies which are attendant upon the married fiate in civilized countries.   The impulfes of nature are therefore followed
without
without reflraint, and the confequence is a great popula- September, tion, in proportion to the fmall part of the ifland which is cultivated. The plains and narrow vallics are now the only inhabited parts, though many of the hills are very lit for culture, and capable of fupporting an infinite number of people. Perhaps, in courfe of time, if the population mould encreafc confidcrably, the natives may have re-courfc to thefe parts, which are now in a manner ufelefs •and fuperfluous. The evident diflinction of ranks which fubfifts at Taheitee, does not fo materially affect the felicity of the nation, as we might have fuppofed. Under one general fovereign, the people are diflinguifhcd into the claffes of aree, manahoùna, and towtow, which bear fome diflant relation to thofe of the feudal fyflems of Europe. The fimplicity of their whole life contributes to foften thefe diflinctions, and to reduce them to a level. Where the climate and the cufiom of the country do not abfolutc-ly require a perfect garment ; where it is eafy at every flep to gather as many plants as form not only a decent, but likewife a cuflomary covering ; and where all the necelfa-ries of life are within the reach of every individual, at the expence of a trifling labour, ambition and envy mufl in a great meafure be unknown. It is true, the higher claffes of people poffefs fome dainty articles, fuch as pork, fifh, fowl, and cloth almoft exclufively ; but the defire of indulging the appetite in a few trifling luxuries, can at mofl:
render
render individuals, and not whole nati ns, unhappy. Ah» folute want occafions the miferies of the lower clafs in fome civilized Hates, and is the refult of the unbounded volup-tuoufnefs of their fuperiors. At O-Taheitee there is not, in general, that difparity between the higheft and the meaneft man, which fubfifts in England between a reputable tradefman and a labourer. The affection of the Taheitians for their chiefs, which they never failed to exprefs upon all occafions, gave us great room to fuppofe that they confider themfelves as one family, and refpect their eldeft-born in the perfons of their chiefs. Perhaps the origin of their government was patriarchal, and the king might only be dignified by virtue of being confidered as the father of his people, till by degrees the conftitution fettled into its prefent form. Still there remains much ancient fimplicity in that familiarity between the fovereign and the fubject. The loweft man in the nation fpeaks as freely with his king as with his equal, and has the pleafurc of feeing him as often as he likes. This intercourfe would become more difficult as foon as defpotifm fhould begin to gain ground. The king at times amufes himfelf with the occupations of his fubjects, and not yet depraved by the falfe notions of an empty Rate, often paddles his own canoe, without thinking fuch an employment derogatory to his dignity. How long fuch an happy equality may laft, is uncertain ; fince the indolence of the chiefs is already, notwithflanding the
exuberant
A  VOYAGE ROUND  TEI E   WORLD. pfy
exuberant fertility of the foil, a Rep towards its deftruc- BmSSnt Hon. Though cultivation is a labour fcarce felt at prefent by the towtows, to whom it is allotted ; yet by infenfible degrees it will fall heavier upon them, as the number of chiefs muff naturally increafe in a much greater proportion, than their own clafs, for this obvious reafon, becaufe the chiefs are perfectly unemployed. This addition of labour will have a bad effect on their bodies, they will grow jll-fhaped, and their bones become marrowlefs ; their greater expofure to the action of a vertical fun, will blacken their fkins, and they will dwindle away to dwarfs, by the more frequent proflitution of their infant daughters, to the voluptuous pleafures of the great. That pampered race,, on the contrary, will preferve all the advantages of an extraordinary fize, of a fuperior elegance of form and features, and of a purer colour, by indulging a voracious appetite, and living in abfolute idlenefs. At laft the common people will perceive thefe grievances, and the caufes which produced them ; and a proper fenfe of the general rights of mankind awaking in them, will bring on a revolution. This is the natural circle of human affairs ; at prefent there is fortunately no room to fuppofe, that fuch a. change will take place for along feries of years to come ; but how much the introduction of foreign luxuries may haflcn that fatal period, cannot be too frequently repeated to Europeans.
ptember ropeans. If the knowledge of a few individuals can only be acquired at fuch a price as the happinefs of nations, it were better for the difcoverers, and the difcovered, that the South Sea had flill remained unknown to Europe and its reftlefs inhabitants.
CHAP.
1773-September.
CHAP. X.
Account of our Tranfaciions at the Society Iflands.
1 I A H E wind with which we failed from O-Taheitee, A    frefhened after fun-fet, and favoured our departure from that happy ifland, which we Rill difcerncd by moonlight.
The next day, at eleven o'clock, we faw the ifle of TWday ». Huahine, which is about twenty-five leagues from Taheitce, and was firil difcovered by captain Cook, on the 11 th of July, 1769. A number of our people now felt the effects of their intercourfe with the women at Matavai Bay, and had fymptoms of a difagrceable complaint. All the patients, however, without exception, had this difeafe only in a very flight and benign degree. The queflion which has been agitated between the French and Englifh navigators, concerning the firfl introduction of this evil to Taheitce, might be decided very favourably for them both, by fuppofing the difeafe to have exifled at Taheitce previous to their arrival. The argument, that none of captain Wallis's people received the infection, does not feem to controvert this fup-pofition, but only proves, that the women, who proflitutcd themfelves to his crew, were free from it: which was per-
Vol. I. B b b haps
,7?3-     haps owing to a precaution of the natives, who might be apprehenfive of expofing themfelves to the anger of the Grangers, by conferring fuch a defperate gift upon them *. We heard, however, of another difeafe of a different nature, whilft we Raid upon the ifland ; and which they called o-pay-no-Pcppe, (the fore of Peppe,) adding,  that it was brought by the fhip which they defigned by that name, and which, according to different accounts, had either been two, three, or five months before us at Taheitee.   By the account of the fymptoms, it feemed to be a kind of le-profy.   Nothing is more eafy than to imagine, how the Rrangers (Spaniards,) who vifited Taheitee in that fhip, might be innocently charged with introducing that difeafe. In order to give rife to a general error of this fort, it is fufficient that it broke out nearly about the time of their arrival, and that fome diflant connections between them and the perfons affected, could be traced.   This is the more probable, as it is certain, that there are feveral forts of leperous complaints exifling among the inhabitants, fach as the elephantiafis, which refembles the yaws ; alfo an eruption over the whole fkin, and laflly a monftrous rotting ulcer, of a mofl loathfome appearance. However,
* See M. de Bougainville's Voyage, Englifh Edition, pag. 273, 274, 285, 286. and Hawkefworth, vol. I, p. 489, 490. and vol. II. p. 232. M. de Bougainville, with the politenefs of a well-bred man, doubts, whether the difeafe exifted at Taheitee previous to his arrival or not j the Englifh feaman afferts his opinion as fail in pofitive terms. * .
all
all thefe very feldom occur, and efpecially the laft ; for the g^VJiVs-: excellence of their climate, and the fimplicity of their vegetable food, which cannot be too much extolled, prevent not only thefe, but almoft all dangerous and deadly diforders.
Towards fun-fct we brought to within two leagues of Friitj 3. Huahine ; and the next day, at four o'clock, doubled the north end of that iiland, and then bore up for the harbour of O-Wharre.    Huahine is divided by a deep inlet into two peninfulas, connected by an ifthmus entirely overflowed at high-water.   Its hills are much inferior to thofe of Taheitee in height, but their appearance flrongly indicated them as the former feats of a volcano.   The fummit of one of them had much the appearance of a crater, and a blackifh fpungy rock was feen on one of its fides, which feemed to be lava.    At fun-rife we beheld fome of the other Society Ifles, called O-Raietca (Ulietea,) O-Taha, and Ihrahra (Bolabola.)    The laft forms a peak like Maatca, but infinitely higher and more confiderable, on the top of which there appeared alfo the crater of a volcano. There are two entrances to O-Wharre harbour ; of thefe we chofc the fouthermoft, and having a very Ready breeze off fhore, our navigators tried their fkill in working in.   The entrance might be about three or four hundred yards long, and barely a hundred yards  wide  between  two reefs. However in this fpace we made fix or feven trips with
B b b 2 amazing
amazing dexterity, each trip lading about two or three minutes. We had not yet worked in, when the Adventure came in after us, but unfortunately approached too near one of the reefs, jufi: as flic was putting about, and leaned on the fide of the coral rock. We were for the prefent intent only in faving our own fhip for fear of the worfl that might happen, and foon after came to an anchor. As foon as that was done, our boats were difpatch-ed to the afTiflance of our confort, and fhe was towed into the harbour. Her bottom being examined, it was found that flie had fullered no damage, which was likewife the cafe with the Refolution, when fhe flruck on the coafl of Tiarraboo.
The appearance of the country was exactly the fame here as at Taheitee, but upon a much fmaller fcale ; the circumference of the whole ifle being only about feven or eight leagues. The plains are therefore very inconfiderable, and there are hardly any intermediate hills between them and the higher mountains, which take their rife immediately from the fkirts of the plain. The country, however, contained a variety of pleafant little fpots. Not a fingle canoe came off to us here beyond the reefs, but we had not been long at anchor before a few of them arrived loaded with coco-nuts, bread-fruit, and large fowls. We were very glad to meet with thefe birds, having obtained only a fingle pair at Taheitee, where they had been entirely
tirely fwept away by former navigators. Amongft the na tives who came on board, there was one who had a mon-ftrous rupture or hernia, which did not feem to incumber him much, as he came up the fides of the fhip with great agility. The natives fpoke the fame language, had the fame features, and wore the fame cloth, made of bark, as thofe of Taheitee j but none of their women appeared. They bartered very fairly for our beads and nails, and in a little time had fold us a dozen of very large cocks, of a beautiful plumage -, but it may be remarked, that they feldom brought the hens for fale. Towards eleven o'clock the captains went on fhore to a large fhed, of which the fides reached to the ground, and which gave fhelter to a double canoe. Here they appointed a perfon to trade with the natives, which they did fo regularly that we collected upwards of twenty hogs this day for large fpike nails or fmall hatchets, and about a dozen of dogs, which feemed to be the mofl ftupid animals of their kind, but were reckoned excellent provifion by the natives. During our firft walk we found two plants which we had not feen before ; and we took notice that all the bread-trees in that part had already young fruit, of the fize of fmall apples, which, as the natives faid, would not be ripe in lefs than four months. The diflrict where we landed feemed to be entirely deftitute of bananas j the natives, however, brought us fome bunches of this fruit from other parts, which
proves
stm'uBER. proves that they have the art of managing fome of their plantations fo as to produce at different feafons ; but thefe late crops arc, as may be eafily conceived, very trifling in quantity, and referved for the luxury of their chiefs.
We returned on board to dinner, and afterwards made another excurfion on more, where wc were told, that the chiefs of the ifland would make their appearance the next day.   We were not much incommoded by the inhabitants on our rambles,  our train feldom exceeding fifteen or twenty, except near a place of general rcfort, fuch as the fhed where our trade was carried on.   The fmallnefs of the ifland might be the principal caufe of the difference from what we had experienced at Taheitce; but it mufl be added that the natives here were not well enough acquainted with our difpofition to expect to reap any advantage from following us ; and did not, upon the whole, exprefs that degree of curiofity, nor of fear, which was inherent in the Taheitians, who had had fuflicient caufe to dread the fuperior power of our fire-arms.
Our Taheitian friend Porca went afhore with us in a linen frock and a pair of trowfers, and carried captain Cook's powder-horn and fhot-pouch. He told us that he was defnous to be looked upon as one of our people, and therefore never fpoke the Taheitian language, but continued to mutter fome unintelligible founds, which actually impofed upon the multitude.   To favour the illufion, he
would
A VOYAGE  ROUND  THE  WORLD. 3? would no longer hearken to his Taheitian name Porca, *?7?-
Septembi
but denied to have an Englifh one ; the failors immediately called him Tom, with which he was extremely well pleafed, and foon learnt the ufual anfwer of Sir, which he expreffed Yorro. What aim he propofed to himfelf in affuming this difguife, we could not conceive, unlefs it was, that he expected to have greater confequence in the character of an Englifh failor, than that of a Taheitian towtow.
The next day my father accompanied the captains to the trading-place, and from thence to the north part of the harbour, where they found the acting chief, Oree, who was the uncle of the prefent king Terrirarea (perhaps T'-Aree-Tarea.)   They put afhore near a houfe on the water-fide, where Oree was feated amidfl a number of his attendants.    Two of the natives who were in the boat, feeing our gentlemen preparing to land, dcfired them to fu Itili a while, till they had brought fome plantane-flems, in fign of peace and friendfhip.   They prefented two of thefe to our people, and defired them to ornament them with large nails, looking-glaffes, medals, &c.    This requefl being complied with, the flems  thus loaded were brought on fhore and prefented, whilfl they bid our people pronounce to the firfl: no t'Eatua, « for the Divinity," and to the fecond, na te lays O-Toote no Oree, u from the friend, Cook, to Oree."
This
rtember• Tn^s done, our people received in their turn five plantane-ftalks fuccelTively under the following denominations.
1. The firfl, accompanied with a pig, no t Aree « from the king," (meaning T'-aree-tarea who was a boy about feven or eight years old).
2. The fecond, with another pig, no t'Eatua, " for the divinity."
3. The third, no te Toimoe. This term was entirely unintelligible to our people at that time, but it appeared from fubfequent explanations, to fignify " a welcome."
4. The fourth with a dog, no te Toura, a from the rope." Here, though the words were underRood, the meaning was, if poilible, more obfeure than in the preceding article, and what is worfe, we could never obtain any light upon the fubjefl.
5. The laft with a pig, na te tayo O-Oree no Toote, " from the friend Oree to Cook."
To conclude this ceremony, the fame man who brought all thefe things, likewife prefented a red bag, containing a piece of pewter with this infeription, " His Britannic Ma-jefly's fhip, Endeavour. Lieutenant Cook commander, 16th of July, 1769' Huahine," together with a counter *. This teftimony of captain Cook's firft vifit to the ifland of Huahine, which he had left to Oree with an injunction never to part
with
with it, was probably laid before him at prefent, to (hew S.C?'7IX,R that his directions had been flrictly adhered to. As foon as he had received it, he flopped albore with all his company, and embraced Oree, who was an old man between fifty and fixty, thin, and very blear-eyed. He received our people very cordially as known friends, and prefented feveral large bales of cloth to the captain ; after which the inhabitants flocked in great numbers to his houfe, with abundance of fowls, hogs, and dogs, which they eagerly fold for the trifling confideration of nails, knives, and fmall hatchets.
In the mean while Dr. Sparrman and myfelf, after landing at the trading-place, proceeded to Orees houfe by land.   On  this walk we faw great numbers of hogs, dogs,  and fowls.    The  laft roamed about at pleafure through the woods, and roofled on fruit-trees ; the hogs were likewife allowed to run about, but received regular portions of food, which were commonly dillributcd by old women.   We obferved one of them in particular, feeding a little pig with the four fermented bread-fruit paflc, called mahei ; flic held the pig with one hand, and offered it a tough pork's fkin, but as foon as it opened the mouth to map at it, fhe contrived to throw a handful of the four palle in, which the little animal would not take without this flratagem.   The dogs in fpite of their Rupidity, were in high favour with all the women, who could not have Vol. I. C c c nurfed
nurféd them with a more ridiculous affecìion, if they had really been ladies of fafhion in Europe. We were witnciTcs of a remarkable inftance of kindnefs, when we faw a middle aged woman, whofe breafls were full of milk, offering them to a little puppy which had been trained up to fuck them. We were fo much furprifed at this fight, that we. could not help cxprclling our difiike of it ; but fhe fmiled at our obfervation, and added, that fhe fullered little pigs to do the fame fervice. Upon enquiry however, we found that flie had loR her child, and did her the juflice among!! ourfelves to acknowledge that this expedient was very innocent and formerly pracYifcd in Europe*. The dogs of all thefe iflands were fhort, and their fizes vary from that of a lap-dog to the largcfl fpaniel. Their head is broad, the fnout pointed, the eyes very fmall, the ears upright, and their hair rather long, lank, hard, and of different colours, but mofl commonly white and brown. They feldom if ever barked, but howled fometimes, and were, my of flrangers to a degree of averfion.
We met with fome of the birds here, which we had: already feen at Taheitee, and alfo a blue white-bellied kingVfifhcr, and a greyifh heron. We fhot fome of each fort, but found a number of people among the croud,
• The Indian women in America, whofe milk is remarkably abundant, Rave frequent recourfe to this expedient to drain their breafls. See the Canon "Pauw's Recherches Philofophiques fur Jcs Americains, vol, I, p. 55.
who
who annexed an idea of holinefs to thefe birds, and called S]JP^.... them eatooas, which is the fame name by which they dc-fign God. There were however at all times, at leali: an equal, if not greater number of people who defired us to fhoot them, and were very ready to point them out. Neither did any of them exprefs a mark of difapprobation after wc had killed the birds. It is certain that they do not look upon them as divinities, becaufe thefe according to their ideas are invisible ; but the name of eatooa which they bellow on them, feems to convey an idea of a much greater veneration, than that which protects fwallows and other birds in England, againft the mifchievous pur-fuit of unlucky boys. Here and in many other circum-flances relative to civil, political, and religious inftitutions, we are entirely at a lofs ; and on account of our fhort continuance among thefe ' iflanders, as well as for want of knowing their language, could never obtain any fatisfacTory information.
With the acquifkions which we had made, we continued our excurfton to the northern arm of the harbour, where Mr. Smith, one of our mates, fuperintended the wa-terers. We found a number of natives alfembled about him, who brought fo many hogs for fale, that we were plentifully fupplicd with frefh meat, and could ferve it every day to both fhips companies.   Vegetables  on the
C c c 2 other
17^- other hand were fo fcarce here, that we rarely got plan-tanes, bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, but contented ourfelves with fome good yams, which when boiled fupplied the place of bread. Towards noon we reached Oree's houfe, after walking along a beach of fmall white fhell fand, am id ft a low kind of coco-palms, affording a good deal of made, which is always acceptable in thefe climates. Captain Cook had been more fuccefsful in trading than all the other parties, fo that when we returned into the boat, we had fcarce room enough to fit in it. In the afternoon we returned to Oree's houfe, where we found him fur-rounded by a great number of the principal people of the ifland. They appeared to be fo exactly like the Taheitians, that we could perceive no difference, nor could we by any means verify that affei tion of former navigators, that the women of this ifland were in general fairer and more handfome * ; but this may vary according to cir-cumftances. They were however not fo troublefome in begging for beads and other prefents, nor fo forward to beftow their favours on the new comers, though at our landing and putting off, fome of the common fort frequently performed an indecent ceremony, which is defcribed in the accounts of former voyagers, but without any of the preparatory circumftances which Ooratooa had
prac-
practifed f. We had likewife much lefs reafon to extol a ,7^-the hofpitality of the inhabitants, their general behaviour being rather more indifferent, and the Taheitian cufiom of reciprocal prefents almoft entirely unknown. On our walks we were unmolefted, but their conduct wras bolder and more unconcerned than that of the Taheitians, and the explolion, as well as the effects of our fowling-pieces did not flrike them with fear and aftonifhment. Thefe differ-ences were certainly owing to the various treament which the people of both iflands had met with on the part of Europeans. There were, however, not wanting inftances of hofpitality and good-will even here. A chief, named Townua, entreated my father to come to his houfe, which lay in the interior part of the plain. He accepted the invitation, and was very well entertained ; befidcs having an opportunity of purchafing one of thofe targets or bread-plates which I have already mentioned.
Oree came on board early the next morning with his Sunday s. tons, the eldeft of them a handfome little boy, about eleven years old, who received our prefents with great indifference ; but he, as well as all the people of the iiland, were highly delighted with the bagpipe, and required it to be conftantly played. Wi:h Oree, who now went by the name of Cookee, as he had done whilft the Endeavour lay here %
f See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 125.     See alfo vol. I. p. 438, 440. They lifted up their garments from the knee to the waift. * Sec Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 25/.
we
we returned on fhore, where we difperfed in fearch of plants and other curiofities.   In the evening we all met together again, when Dr. Sparrman, who had been entirely by himfelf towards the north point of the ifle, acquainted us that he had met with a large lagoon of falt-water, which extended feveral miles parallel to the coafl, and had an intolerable ftench on account of the putrid mud which lay on its fhores.   Here he had met with feveral plants, which are common enough in the ifles and coafls of the Eafl Indies, but not fo frequent in other parts of the South Sea iflands.   A fingle native, whom he had entrufled with his plant-bag, had proved extremely faithful to him. Whenever the doctor fat down to defcribe, the native feated himfelf behind him, and took both the fkirts of his coat, containing his pockets, in his hand, in order, as he faid, to prevent the thieves from coming at them.   By this means the doctor had not loR any thing when he came on board ; feveral of the natives, however, feeming to think him in their power, had bellowed upon him fome ill-natured looks and opprobrious names.
The next day he ventured out again entirely by himfelf, while wc remained at the trading-place with captain Cook. One of the natives, named Tubai', a tall man, dreffed in feveral large pieces of the cloth of bark, flained with red, ?nd who had feveral bundles of birds feathers hanging at his girdle, prohibited the fale of hogs and brcad-fruir, and
actually
actually feizcd a bag of nails which the captain's clerk Sep^;;^ held in his hand.    However, when the latter called for affiftance, he let it go again, and perceiving one of our young gentlemen trying to ftrike a bargain for a large fowl, he took a nail from him by force, and threatened to beat him with his club.   A complaint being made to captain Cook, juft as he was going aboard in a boat, he returned afhore, and bid Tubai to leave the place. Upon his re fu fai, the captain went up to him and feized two large clubs which the native had in his hand ; but the latter ftruggled with him, till captain Cook drew his hanger, on which he made off.   The clubs, which were made of. the cafuarina wood, were broken-and the pieces thrown into the fea, by the captain's order, while he recalled the reft of the natives, who began to be alarmed, and were preparing to leave the trading-place.    They all agreed that, this Tubai was a bad man, (tata-eeno,) and feemed to think that we had done him juflicc.   However, as captain Cook was going to  fend his boat on board  for a party of marines to protect our traders, the whole croud difperfed at once and left us alone.   We had not been above two minutes at a lofs to account for their behaviour, when Dr. Sparrman arrived almoft dripped naked,   and with the marks of feveral violent blows.    He had been accoded on, his walk by two of the natives, who had invited him to proceed farther into the country, with many proteftations
of
September. °^ fricfidfliip, and repetitions of the word tap.   At once, taking the advantage of an unguarded moment, they tore from his fide a hanger, the only weapon he had, and gave him a blow over his head as he was (looping to arm himfelf with a Rone.   He Rumbled, and they tore a black fat-tin waidcoat and feveral loofe parts of drefs from him. However, difengaging himfelf, he ran towards the beach and outftripped them, when fome bind-weeds caught his feet, and detained him till the villains came up. They gave him repeated blows over his temples and fhouldcrs, which dunned him ; ftripped his fhirt over his head, and were juft preparing to cut his hands, becaufe the fleeve-buttons held the lliirr, when he fortunately opened them with his teeth, and they made off with their booty. Not above fifty yards farther on, fome natives were at dinner, who, feeing him paffing by, came out and invited him to Rop, but he hurried on towards the fea,    In his way, however, he met two natives, who immediately took ofi" their own cloth, (almvj dreffed him in it, and attended-him to the trading-place.   Thefe honed people were rewarded to the bed of our power with various prefents, and we all hurried on board to reinforce our party.   Dr. Sparrman being dreffed again, accompanied us to Orce's houfe to whom we made our complaint.   The old chief immediately refolved to afnft captain Cook in the fearch after the thieves, but his noble refolution filled all his relations
with
with terror. Upwards of fifty people of both fexes began setteIlber, to weep when he ftepped into the boat ; fome with the moil pathetic and moving geflures tried to difluade him ; and others held him back and embraced him ; but he was not to be prevailed upon, and went off with us, faying, that he had nothing to apprehend, becaufe he was not the guilty perfon. My father offered to remain on fhore as an hoflage, but he would not admit of it, and took only one of his relations in the boat with him. We rowed up a deep creek oppofite the fhips, where this villainy had been committed, and afterwards took a long walk into the country to no purpofe ; for all Oree's melTengers, who were fent to apprehend the robbers, did not perform their duty. At laft we returned to the boat, where Oree re-embarked with us, notwithflanding the tears of an old lady and of her handfome daughter. The young woman, in a fit of frantic grief, took up fome (hells and cut herfelf on the head with them, but her mother tore them out of her hands, and actually accompanied Oree to the fhip. Here he dined with us very heartily, but the woman, according to the cufiom of the country, would not touch our provifions. After dinner we brought him back to his houfe, which was crouded with different groups of the principal families on the ifland, who fat on the ground, and many of whom flied tears plentifully. We fat down amongft thefe difconfolate people, and with all the Tahei-Vol. L D d d tian
tian oratory we were matters of, endeavoured to footh them into content and good humour. The women, in particular, fhewed a great fenfibility, and could not recover for a long while. At laft we fucceeded to appeafe their violence of grief ; and, as fome of us could not behold their diftrefs, without admiring the excellence of their hearts, we naturally fympathized wiih them, with a degree of fmcerity which entirely regained their confidence. It is indeed one of the happicft reflections which this voyage has enabled us to make, that inftead of finding the inhabitants of thefe ifles wholly plunged in fenfuality, as former voyagers have falfejy reprefented them, we have met with the moft generous and exalted fentiments among them, that do honour to the human race in general. Vicious characters are to be met with in all focieties of men ; but for one villain in thefe ifles, we can fhew at leaft fifty in England, or any civilized country.
In a little time the trade went on as brifkly as ever, and we were particularly fortunate in obtaining a fupply of vegetables. Towards evening two of Oree's meflengers arrived with the hanger and a part of Dr. Sparrman's waift-coat, which were reftored to him, and with thefe foon after we returned on board.
In the morning, at day-break, the captains went to Oree's houfe, and returned the piece of pewter on which the commemoration of the firft difcovery was engraved..
At
A  VOYAGE ROUND
THE
\V 0 R L D.
387
At the fame time they gave him a piece of copper, with this Sep,7w«er, infcription :   his britannick majesty's ships resolution  and adventure,   september   1 7 7 3-  tO which they
added a number of medals, and defired him to (hew it to any flrangers that happened to touch here. As foon as they were on board again, the feamcn hove the anchor, and wc got under fail, in company with the Adventure. The quantity of live flock which we had purchafed during our three days flay was amazing, and fhewed how great a value the natives had fet upon our iron-work, The Refolution alone had two hundred and nine live hogs, thirty dogs, and about fifty fowls on board, when fhe failed, and the Adventure had not much lefs. We were fcarce got under way when Oree arrived along-fide in a fmall canoe, and came on board ; he acquainted us that the robbers, and the things they had carried off, were taken, and defired both the captains, as well as Dr. Sparrman, to come on fhore, in order to fee the villains punifhed. But unfortunately his flory was mifundcrflood, and we lofi an opportunity of feeing their method of inflicting punifhments. Captain Cook believing that Oree fpoke of fome of his countrymen who were embarked in the Adventure againft his will, immediately difpatched his boat to bring them back j but that veffel being a great way ahead, and wc driving out to fea very fall, Oree became impatient, took 2. cordial leave of us all, and returned on fhore in his little
D d d 2 canoe,
jm- canoe, with only one of his countrymen to aiTift him. A little while after our boat returned from the Adventure, and brought on board O-Mai, the only native who had embarked in that velTel with a view to go to England. He Raid on board our fhip till we reached Ra'ietea, whither we now directed our courfe. As foon as we were come to an anchor there, he returned on board the Adventure, and afterwards came to England in her, and has for fome time engrolTed the attention of the curious. He feemed to be one of the common people at that time, as he did not afpire to the captain's company, but preferred that of the armourer and the common fcamcn. But when he reached the Cape of Good Hope, where the captain dreffed him in his own clothes, and introduced him in the beft companies, he declared he was not a towtow, which is the denomination of the lowed clafs, and affumcd the character of a boa, or attendant upon the king. The world hath been amufed at times with different fabulous accounts concerning this man, among which we need only mention the ridiculous ftory of his being a " Prieft of the Sun f a character which has never exifted in the iflands from whence he came. His ftature was tall, but very ilim, and his hands remarkably fmall. His features did not convey an idea of that beauty which characterizes the men at O-Taheitee j on the contrary, we do him no injudice to affert that, among all the inhabitants of Taheitee and the Society
Ifles,
Ifles, we have feen few individuals fo ill-favoured as him- septVmd'er. felf. His colour was likewife the darkefl hue of the common clafs of people, and correfponded by no means with the rank he afterwards affumed. It was certainly unfortunate that fuch a man fhould be felected as a fpecimen of a people who have been juRly extolled by all navigators, as remarkably well-featured and coloured, confi lering the climate in which they live. The qualities of his heart and head refembled thofe of his countrymen in general ; he was not an extraordinary genius like Tupaia, but he was warm in his affections, grateful, and humane ; he was polite, intelligent, lively, and volatile. For a further account of O-Mai, I refer the reader to the preface, where I have mentioned his flay in England, his progrefs in knowledge, and his equipment at his return.
Having left Huahine we failed to the weftward, and Wednefday*. doubled the fouth end of an ifland, difcovered by captain Cook in 1769, which all the natives of Taheitee, and the Society Ifles call O-Raietea, but which (upon what foundation I know not) is named Ulietea in captain Cook's charts *. The next morning we anchored in an opening of the reef, and fpent the whole day in warping into Ha-maneno harbour. The country hereabouts afforded a profpect much refembling Taheitee ; for the ifland being about three times the fize of Huahine,  had much broader
plains,
plains, and loftier hills. The natives furrounded us in a number of canoes, and brought a few hogs , but our people looked at them with a carelefs indifference, and offered very low prices, being difficult to pleale, fince their fuccefs at Huahine. In one of the canoes a chief came on board, named Oruwherra, a native of the adjacent ifle of Borabora (Bolabola.) He was very athletic, but his hands very fmall, and the punctuation, which the natives call tattow, confided of the moft lingular fquare blotches on his arms, and of large black flripcs acrofs the breaft, belly, and back. His loins and thighs were uniformly black. He brought fome green branches, and a little pig which he prefented to my father, being neglected by every body elfe. Having received a few iron-tools as a return, he defcended immediately into his canoe, and was paddled to the fhore. But in a little time, another canoe arrived from him with coco-nuts and bananas, which his fervants offered to his new friend, refufing at the fame time to accept of any retribution. The pleafure which we felt from this circumdancc, can eafily be conceived. Philanthropy is never better rewarded, than when its objects are endowed with good and amiable qualities,.
In the afternoon another chief, a native of the fame ifle of Borabora, came on board, and exchanged names with my father. His name was Hcrca, and his perfon the moft corpulent we ever faw in the South Sea iflands j round his
waitt
waift he meafured no lefs than fifty-four inches, and one of sikJILm his thighs was thirty-one inches and I in girth. His hair was likewife remarkable ; for it hung down in long black wavy trefles to the fmall of his back, and in fuch quantity that it encreafed the apparent bulk of his head con-fiderably. His corpulence, his colour, and his punctures, like thofe of Oruwherra, were very diftinguifhing marks of his rank, to which indolence and luxury arc annexed here as well as at Taheitee. It may perhaps want fome explanation, how both thefe chiefs, who were natives of the adjacent ifle of Borabora, could have any authority and pofTeffions on Raietea. Already, in captain Cook's former voyage, it was known that O-Poonee the king of Borabora, had conquered not only the ifle of Raietea, but likewife that of O-Taha, which is included in the fame reef, and that of Mowrua which lies about fifteen leagues to the weftward *'. The warriors who had ferved under him in thefe expeditions had been rewarded with ample poileflions, and a great number of his fubjects had received grants in the conquered iflands. The king of Raietea Oo-Ooroo, was however confirmed in his dignity, though his power was confined to the didrici: of Opoa ; but at Taha, Poonee had placed a viceroy, named Boba, who was nearly related to him. Many of the natives of the conquered iflands had retreated to Huahine and Taheitee,.
pre-
preferring a voluntary exile, to a fubmiflion to the conqueror, and hoping one day to refcue their country from oppreffion. It feems, this was the motive which prompted Tupaia and O-Mai, who were both natives of Raietea, to embark in Britifli fhips, as both of them always exprciTed a hope of obtaining a quantity of our fire-arms. Tupaia might perhaps have carried his fcheme into execution, if he had lived; but O-Mai's underftanding was not fufheiently penetrative, to acquire a competent idea of our wars, or to adapt it afterwards to the fituation of his countrymen. He was, however, fo fond of the thought of freeing his country from the Borabora men, that he has frequently faid, in England, if captain Gook did not afllft him in the execution of his plan, he would take care that his countrymen fhould not fupply him with refrefliments, In this opinion he pcrfirted till near the time of his departure, when he was perfuaded to adopt more peaceable principles. We were at a lofs to conceive the motives which could have induced a native of one of thefe iflands to become a conqueror. If we believed the accounts of the Borabora men, their native ifland was as fertile and defireable as thefe of which they had taken pofleflion ; therefore nothing but a fpirit of ambition could have ilimulated them to contentions. Such a fpirit ill agreed with the fimplicity and generous character of the people, and it gave us pain to be convinced,
that
that great imperfections cannot be excluded from the beft - *w . of human focieties.
On the day after our arrival, the captains went on fhore Thurfday 9t with us to a large houfe, clofe to the water's fide, which he knew to be the refidence of Orca, the chief of the diftrict. We found him fitting in his houfe, with his wife, fon, daughter, and a great number of perfons of diftinctiom Immediately after our arrival we fat down by them, and were fhut in on all fides by a thick croud of the natives, who made the place excefllvely hot.    Orca was a middle-fized, lufty man, with a very lively intelligent countenance, and thin redifh-brown beard,   tie joked and laughed very heartily with us, and entirely banifhed all kinds of ceremony and affectation.   His wife was an elderly woman, but his fon and daughter, about twelve and fourteen years old.    The latter was of a very white colour, and her features had not much of the general character of the nation, particularly her nofe, which was remarkably well-fhaped, and her eyes, which gave her fome refemblancc to a Ghi-nefe.   Her nature was low, but her body elegantly proportioned, and her hands graceful beyond description -, only the legs and feet were too large for the reft of the figure, and the cufiom of cutting the hair fhort, appeared to be a great difadvantagc.    Her manners were very engaging, and fire had a plcafing foft voice, like moft of her countrywomen, fo that flic could not be refufed, when flic afked Vol, I. E e e , for
for beads or other trinkets. As it did not aeree with our occupations, to Ray in the houfe, we took a walk into the groves, where we mot a few birds, and collected fome plants. We found here, to our great fatisfaction, that confidence and familarity amongfl the common people, which we had not experienced at Huahine, and we were happy at the fame time not to be importuned by them, in the begging flrain of the Taheitians. In the afternoon we made another excurfion, and fhot feveral king-fifhers. As foon as we had fhot the laft, we met Orèa, and his family walking through the plain with captain Cook j the chief took no notice of the bird which we had in our hands, but his fair daughter lamented the death of her eatua, and ran from us, when we attempted to touch her with it. Her mother, and moft of the women, feemed likewife to be grieved at this accident, and at ftepping into the boat, the chief defired us with a very fcrious air, not to kill the king-fiflicrs and herons on his ifland, allowing at the fame time the liberty of fhooting any other forts of birds. We tried again to difcover the nature of their veneration for thefe two fpecies, but all our enquiries were as fruitlefs as they had been before.
We walked to the top of one of the neighbouring hills Frid y 10.     the next day, and found feveral new plants in the vallies,.
between them. The foil at the top was a kind of flone marie ; on the fides we found fome fcattercd flints, and a
few
few fmall pieces of a cavernous or fpungy Hone-lava, of lm7£i'Bll. a whitifh colour, which feemed to contain fome remains of iron.   This metal, which is of general and extenfive utility, is difperfed through almoft all parts of the world, by the benevolent hand of nature, and may perhaps even here be contained in the mountains, in great quantity.    The lava indicated the exiflence of former volcanoes in this ifland, which we had indeed fufpetftcd, becaufe all the adjacent ifles, we had hitherto feen, ftrongly, and fometimes evidently bore the marks of changes by fubterraneous fire. One of the natives who had attended us, and carried fome rc-frefhments, pointed out the direction of feveral iflands in the neighbourhood, but which lay out of fight. About due weft, he faid, the ifle of Mopeehàh was fituated, and about S. by W. another, named Whennua òwrah. Both thefe, according to his accounts, were not inhabited, and confiftcd only of circular ledges of coral, with palms on them, but were occafionally vifned from this and the adjacent ifles.   They feem to be Lord Howe's Ifland, and the Scilly Ifles,  difcovered by captain Wallis.    We defcended about noon, and found that captains Cook and Furneaux had juft left the fhore, after feeing a great dramatic dance, or liceva, performed by fome of the principal women in the ifland.    Wc haftencd on board, as the day proved very hot, and found both our veffels furrounded by a great number of canoes, in which were feveral perfons of diftinction
E e c 2 of
of both fexes, who brought vaft quantities of cloth, made of the mulberry-tree's bark, and offered them in exchange for fmall nails. Our beads were much valued by the ladies as ornaments, but by no means current like the nails, fo that we could not even purchafe fruit with them. The Taheitians fet a much higher value on thefe trifles, which have no intrinfic worth ; may we not conclude therefore, that a greater degree of general opulence is the caufe of their particular affection for trinkets, efpecially as affluence commonly tends to luxury ?
The heat of the day prevented U3 from going on fhore till near fun-fet.    We landed at the watering-place, where we found a little tupapow, or flicd, under which a dead body was depofired on a flage, and a thick grove of various fhady trees furrounded it on all fides.   As I had never feen the remains of the dead carelefsly expofed to all kinds of accidents in thefe iflands, I was a little furprifed to fmd the ground Rrewed with fculls and bones about this fhed ; nor could I meet with any native at this time, from whom I could receive the leaft information on this fubjecT;. I rambled about here for fome time entirely alone, all the inhabitants having repaired to the chief's houfe, where the drums gave notice of another heeva, or public dance ; for they are fo fond of this amufemenr, that they croud together from a confiderable diftance to have the pleafure of feeing it performed.   The ftillnefs of the evening, and
the
the beauty of the fpot made this walk extremely plcafant, SE///jrr;
while the abfence of the inhabitants encouraged fome ideas
of an enchanted country.   Before we returned to our boar,
we met, however, with a few of the natives, amongft
whom one, a very intelligent man, gave us an account of
nine iflands in the neighbourhood, with mofl: of which
we were unacquainted.   Their names were, i. Mopeehdh,
2. Whennua-Ourah,  3. Adeéha, 4. Towteepa, 5. Wouwou, 6. Go-
bordo, 7. Tkbooàr, 8. Awbdow, and 9. Rorotoa.     The two firfl
we had already heard of in the morning, but of the reft he
afferted that they all had their own inhabitants, except
Adecha, which is occafionally vifited.   Oobòrroo he faid
was a whennua or high land, but all the reft he called
mòtoo, that is low iflands, or fuch as confili of ledges of
coral.
Our curiofity was fo much raifed by thefe accounts, that we applied for farther information to the chief Orèa, who came on board the next morning with his fon Te-haiura, and feveral other chiefs. They enumerated the firft, fecond, feventh and ninth iflands of the preceding account ; but their relations differed in this refpecl, as they told us the fecond was regularly inhabited. Ecfides thefe they fpoke of two more, one called Woreco or Woureèa, a large ifland, and Oreèmatàrra another, both which had fettled inhabitants. The accounts of the fituation and distances of thefe ifles were fo various and fo vague, that we
could
could by no means depend upon them, for we never met with any man who had vifited them j however, they ferved to convince us, that the natives of the Society Ifles have fometimes extended their navigation farther than its prefent limits, by the knowledge they have of feveral adjacent countries. Tupaya, the famous man who embarked at Taheitee in the Endeavour, had enumerated a much more confiderable lift of names, and had actually drawn a map of their refpective fituations and magnitudes, of which lieutenant Pickerfgill obligingly communicated a copy to me. In. this map we found all the names above-mentioned, except Oobòrroo and Tuboòai: but if his drawing had been exact, our fhips muft have failed over a number of the iflands which he had laid down, It is therefore very probable that the vanity of appearing more intelligent than he really was, had prompted him to produce this fancied chart of the South Sea, and perhaps to invent many of the names of iflands in it, which amounted to more than fifty.
The chief and his fon breakfafted with us, and went afhore with a number of prefents in return for fome of theirs. We followed foon after, and were invited by him to become fpectators of a dramatic dance or heeva ; which was the more readily accepted by us, as we had never feen one before. The place where it was performed was an area, about twenty-five yards long and ten wide, enclofed between two houfes which flood parallel to each other.
The
The one was a fpacious building, capable of containing a BipfiJJ**. great multitude of fpeciators j but the other was only a narrow hut, which was Supported on a row of polls, and open towards the area, but perfectly clofed up with reeds and mats on the oppofite fides ; one corner of it was matted on all fides, and this was the drelTmg-room of the performers. The whole area was Spread with three large mats of the bed workmanfhip, ftriped with black on the edges. In the open part of the fmaller hut we Saw three drums of different fizes, cut out of folid wood, and covered with mark's fkin, which were continually druck with the fingers only by four or five men with amazing dexterity. The largell of thefe drums was about three feet high and one in diameter. We had already fat fome time under the oppofite roof, amidfl the principal ladies of the ifland, when the acfreffes appeared. One of them was Poyadua, the fair daughter of the chief Orca, and the other a tall well fhaped lady, of very agreeable features, and likewife a very fair complexion *. Their drefs was remarkably different from the ufual fafhion of thefe iflands. It confided of a piece of the brown cloth, of the country fabrick j or, inRead of that, of a piece of blue European cloth, clofely wrapped round the breaft, fo as to refemble the clofe dreffes which our ladies wear ; a kind of ruff of four rows of their cloth, alternately red and
* That is, confidering her as a native of the Society Ifles.
white, refted on their hips, being tied on with a firing ; and from thence a great quantity of white cloth defcended to the feet, forming an ample petticoat, which we expected, from its length, would be a confiderable impediment to their agility, as it fairly trailed on the ground on all fides. The neck, fhoulders, and arms were left uncovered, but the head was ornamented with a kind of turban, about eight inches high, made of feveral fkains of plaited human hair, which they call tamòw.   Thefe being laid above each other in circles, which enlarged towards the top, there was a deep hollow left in the middle, which they had filled up with a great quantity of the fweet-fecnted flowers of the (gardenia) Gape jafmine. But all the front of the turban was ornamented with three or four rows of a fmall white flower, which formed little liars, and had as elegant an effect on the jetty black hair as if it had been fet out with pearls. They moved to the found of the drums, and to all appearance under the direction of an old man, who danced with them, and pronounced feveral words, which, from the tone of his voice, we took to be a fong.    Their attitudes and geRures were much varied, and fometimes might ad-mit of being conftrued into wantonnefs j but they were entirely free from that pofitivc degree of grofs indecency which the chafle eyes of Englifh ladies of fafhion are forced to behold at the opera.   The movement of their arms is certainly very graceful, and the continual gefliculation of
their
their fingers has fomething extremely elegant. The only Sept,^13b'eii< action which gives offence to all our ideas of gracefulnefs * and harmony, is the frightful cuftom of writhing their mouths into the Rrangelt diflortions, which it was impof-fible for any one of us to imitate. They fcrewed their mouth into a jQanting direction, and at laft threw the lips into a waving or undulated form, which feemed to us to be performed by means of an habitual and fudden convul-fion. After they had danced for about ten minutes, they • retired into the part of the houfe which I called their dreff-ing-room, and five men, dreffed in mats, took their place, performing a kind of drama. This confuted of dancing in an indecent manner, and of a dialogue which had fome cadence, and in which they fometimes pronounced a few words fhouting ail together. This dialogue feemed to be clofely connected with their actions. One of them kneeled down, and another beat him and plucked him by the beard, repeating the fame ceremony with two others j but the laft feized and beat him in his turn with a ftick. After this they withdrew, and the drummers gave notice of the fecond act of dancing, which the two ladies performed with little variation from the firft. The men took their turn a fecond time ; the ladies fucceeded them again, and concluded with a fourth act. Then they fat down to reft themfelves, appearing fatigued to a great degree, and in a moft profufe perfpiration -, one of them in particular, being Vol. I. F f f rather
rather luflier and of a lively difpofition, had a fuffufion of red in her cheeks, which was the ftrongcft proof of her fair complexion. The other, Orèa's daughter, had performed her part to admiration, notwithstanding the fatigue of the preceding day, when fhe had acted both in the morning and evening. The officers of both fhips, who were prefent, and ourfelves, loaded them with a great variety of beads and ornaments, which they had fo well defer ved.
In the afternoon Oo-ooroo, the king of the ifle of Raietea, came on board with Orèa and feveral ladies, to vifit captain Cook. He brought a hog as an introductory prefent, and was well repaid with a great quantity of European goods. Among the ladies was one of the dancers, named Teina or Teinamai, who had performed in the morning, and whofe complexion we had much admired. She now appeared to much greater advantage than in the cumbrous drefs which fhe wore during the ceremony. Her own hair, which fortunately was not cut, formed finer ebon ringlets than ever the luxuriant fancy of a painter produced, and a narrow fillet of white cloth was carelefsly paffed between them. Her eyes were full of fire and ex-preflion, and an agreeable fmile fat in her round face. Mr. Hodges took this opportunity of drawing a fketch of her portrait, which her vivacity and refllefs difpofition rendered almoft impoflible,    This was, perhaps, the reafon
that
A   VOYAGE  ROUND   THE WORLD. 403 that he was lefs fuccefsful than ufual, as the representation c xyn-
7 * SEPTEMBER,
which is inferted in captain Cook's own account of this voyage, is infinitely below the delicacy of the original, notwithflanding the excellence of Mr. Shcrwin's engraving. But though it has lofi the refemblancc to Teinamai, it may ferve as a fpecimen of the generality of features in this and the neighbouring iflands, and gives a tolerable idea of a Taheitian boy about ten years old. Towards fun-fet, all our noble vifitors returned afhorc, extremely well pleafed with the reception which they had met with \ a number of women of the lowefl rank, however, remained on our decks, with a complaifance equal to that of the Taheitian girls, (fee pag. 336.)
It was remarkable that they were not without fome degree of vanity, as they never gave themfelves any other name than that of tedùa, (lady,) which is the title of their female nobility, and which, by way of eminence, is particularly applied to the princeffes of thefe iflands. If the king s filler happened to pafs by while we fat in a houfe at Tahciice, the natives who furrounded us were warned to uncover their fhoulders, by fome one who fpicd her at a diflance, fimply faying t:\lua barremai, (the lady comes hither!) or elfe they only faid arce! which on fuch occafions always denoted one of the royal family. Our failors, who did not underfland the language, took it for granted that
F fi 2 their
1773.
September.
Sunday x%. Monday 13.
Tuefday 1.
their dulcineas were all of one name, which frequently occafion fome pleafant miflakes.
We fpent the two next days in various rambles along the fhores, in which we found many deep creeks towards the northern part, with marines at the bottom, where wild-ducks and fnipes refided in great plenty. Thefe birds were more fhy than we expected, which we foon learnt was owing to their being much purfued by the natives, who looked upon them as dainty bits. On the firfl of thefe days we were likewife entertained with another heeva or dramatic dance, by the lame perfons who had performed it before. It was in every refpect the fame with that which we faw on the 1 ith, only its duration was much fhorter.
On the 14th, at day-break, captain Cook fent his launch,
and captain Furneaux another boat, to the ifle of O-Tahà, which was two or three leagues diflant, and inclofed in the fame reef within which we lay at anchor. They were in hopes of purchafing fome fruit there, which was very fcarce at Raietea, and to that purpofe provided lieutenant Pickerfgill and Mr. Rowe the mate of the Adventure, with a quantity of beads and nails. Dr. Sparrman and my father, unwilling to mifs this opportunity of examining another iiland, likewife embarked with them.
Orea, the chief of this part of the ifland, having invited us to come and dine on fhore, the captains, with feveral officers and paifengcrs of both mips, and myfelf, went
on
on ihore about noon, taking with us a little pepper and Sep^7e' fait, fome knives, and a few bottles of wine. A great part of the chief's fpacious houfe was fpread with quantities of leaves, which ferved as a table-cloth, round which we feated ourfelves, with the principal inhabitants. We had not waited long, before one of the common people arrived with a hog fmoking on his fhoulders, roaflcd whole, and wrapped in a large bundle of plantane-leaves, which he threw upon the floor in the midft of us : a fecond toffed a fmaller to us in the fame manner ; and thefe were followed by feveral others bringing bafkets, full of breadfruit, bananas, and the fermented palle of bread-fruir, called mahei. Our hofl now defired us to help ourfelves, and in a fhort time wc had cut the two hogs in pieces. All the women, and the common fort of people, applied to us with a begging tone for portions, and what we dif-tributcd was handed from our neighbours, to the rcmotcil perfons in the croud. The men confumed their fliare with every mark of a good appetite, but the women carefully wrapped theirs up, and prefcrved it till they fhould be alone. The eagernefs with which they repeated their importunities, as well as the envious looks of the chiefs, whenever we granted the requefl, convinced us, that the commonalty were in this ifland dcpiivcd of all forts of luxuries and dainties. Wc all agreed that the pork which Was fet before us, tailed infinitely better, than if it had been
d relied
drelTed after the European manner. It was much juicier than our boiled, and beyond comparifon more tender than roafled meat. The equal degree of heat with which it Rews under-ground, had preferved and concentrated all its juices. The fat was not lufcious and furfeiting, and the fkin inftcad of being hard as a flone, which is always the cafe with our roafted pork, was as tender as any other part. After dinner our bottles and glaffcs were brought in, and our friend Orca drank his fhare without flinching, which appeared to us rather extraordinary, fmce almoft all the natives of thefe iflands expreffed a great diflike to our flrong liquors. Sobriety is a virtue almoft uni ver fai with them, and particularly among people of inferior rank. They arc however acquainted with an intoxicating beverage, which is much admired by fome of the old chiefs. It is made in the mod difguftful manner that can be imagined, from the juices contained in the root of a fpecics of pepper-tree. This root is cut fmall, and the pieces chewed by feveral people, who fpit the macerated mafs into a bowl, where fome water (milk) of coco-nuts is poured upon it. They then ftrain it through a quantity of the fibres of coco-nuts, fqueezing the chips, till all their juices mix with the cocoa-nut-milk ; and the whole liquor is decanted into another bowl. Thev fwallow this naufeous fluff as fa ft as polTible ; and fome old topers value themfelves on being able to empty a great number of bowls.    I was
prefent
prefent at the whole procefs one of the firft days after our arri- swralSa vai at this iiland. Our pafTenger, Porea, who was not fo re-ferved with the natives here as he had been at Huahine, brought one of his new acquaintances into the captain's cabin, and immediately fat down with him to perform the operation. He drank about a pint, which in lefs than a quarter of an hour made him fo dead drunk, that he lay down on the floor without motion ; his face was inflamed, and his eyes fwclled out of his head. A found fleep of feveral hours was neceflary to reflore him to his fenfes ; but as foon as he had recovered them, he appeared thoroughly afhamed of his debauch. The pepper-plant is in high cflccm with all the natives of thefe iflands as a fjgn of peace; perhaps, becaufe getting drunk together, naturally implies good fellowfhip. It feems, however, that drunkennefs here is punifhed, like all other excefles, by difeafe. The old men who make a practice of it are lean, covered with a fcaly or fcabby fkin, have red eyes, and red blotches on all parts of the body. They acknowledge thefe evils to be the confequence of drinking; and to all appearance, the pepper-plant, which they call awa, tends to produce leprous complaints.
As foon as we had dined, our boat's crew and fervants feafled on the remains ; and the fame croud who had profited by our liberality before, now paid their court to them. The failors were complaifant only to the fair fcxj and giving
ing way to their natural difpofition for fenfuality, for every piece of pork required the performance of an indecent denudation. To complete our entertainment this day, the chief gave orders for performing another liceva, and we were admitted (behind the fcenes) to fee the ladies drefling for that purpofe. They obtained fome Rrings of beads on this occafion, with which we took it into our heads to improve upon their ornaments, much to their own fatisfaftion. Among the fpectators we obferved feveral of the prettleft women of this country ; and one of them was remarkable for the whiteft complexion we had ever feen in all thefe iflands. Her colour refembled that of white wax a little fullied, without having the leaft appearance of ficknefs, which that hue commonly conveys ; and her fine black eyes and hair contrafted fo well with it, that fhe was admired by us all. She received at firft a number of little prefents, which were fo many marks of homage paid at the fhrine of beauty ; but her fuccefs, inftead of gratifying, only fharpened her love of trinkets, and fire inceftantly importuned every one of us as long as fhe fufpecied we had a fingle bead left. One of the gentlemen fortunately happened to have a little padlock in his hand, which flie begged for as foon as fhe had perceived it. After denying it for fome time, he confented to give it her, and locked it in her ear, affuring her that was its proper place. She was well pleafed for fome time ; but finding it too heavy, defired
fired him to unlock it. He flung away the key, giving her to underftand at the fame time, that he had made her the prefent at her own defire, and that if fhe found it incumbered her, fhe fhould bear it as a punifhment for importuning us with her petitions. She was difconfolate upon this refufal, and weeping bitterly, applied to us all to open the padlock ; but if we had been willing, we were not able to •comply with her requefl for want of the key. She applied to the chief j and he as well as his wife, fon and daughter, joined in praying for the releafe of her car ; they offered cloth, perfume-wood, and hogs, but all in vain. At laft a fmall key was found to open the padlock, which put an end to the poor girl's lamentation, and reflored peace and tranquility among all her friends. Her adventure had however this good efFecl:, that it cured her and fome of her forward country-women of their idle habit of begging. In the evening we returned on board, highly pleafed with the hofpitality and general good difpofition of the natives towards us. We were therefore furprifed the next morning, that not a fingle canoe would come off to us, and going to Orèa's houfe, in order to enquire the reafon of this fudden change of behaviour, we to our farther aftonifhment found it abandoned by him and his family. A few of the natives, who came to us with a good deal of diffidence, told us that he bad retired towards the north point of the ifland, being afraid that we meant to take him prifoner. It was irarac-Vol. I. G g g diately
I7?i-     diately refolved upon to follow, in order to undeceive him,
rEMBER,
and give him frefh afTurances of friendfhip.   We rowed along fhore for feveral miles, till we came to the place to which he had retired.   At our interview all were in tears, fo that we were obliged to have recourfe to a variety of carcffes, to infpire them with new confidence towards us, and our beads, nails, and hatchets, were not the leaft efficacious arguments.   They told us they believed captain Cook would confine them, in order to force their countrymen to bring back thofe people who were run away from us to O-Taha.   We now law through their miflake, and affured them that our party had not run away,  but was fent on purpofe, and would certainly return this night. Orèa not yet fatisfied, named each of the principal perfons in that party fingly, and enquired concerning every one, whether he would come back, and the pofitive anfwers which we returned, at laft quieted his apprehcnfions. While wc were fitting in a circle with them, Porca our Taheitian, who intended to go to England, came running to the captain, returned the powder-horn, which he had hitherto carried for him, and faid he would come back to us prefently.   We waited in vain a good while, and at laft were obliged to return on board without him ; nor did we fee him again during the little time we remained on the iiland. From the natives we could gather but little information, and the captain fearing left they fhould take new alarm,
if
if he interefted himfelf too ftrongly in his behalf, entirely ^JKm dropped the enquiry.   After dinner I accompanied him to the fhore again, on a vifit to Orèa.   A very hand fome youth, about feventeen years of age, who went by the name of O-Hedeedee, and who appeared to be of the better fort of people by his complexion and good garments, addreiTed himfelf to me,  expreiling a defire to embark for England. I was not inclined to believe at firft, that he would forfake the eafy way of life, which perfons of his rank enjoyed in thefe iflands, and fmiling at his propofal, told him the dif-agreeablc circumflances to which he expofed himfelf by leaving his country.   Cut, though I reprefented to him the rigours of climate which we had to endure, and the bad provifions to which he fhould be reduced in time, he was not to be diffuaded from his refolution, and a number of his friends joined with him to defire his admittance into our fhip.    Upon this I prefented him to captain Cook, and he having granted his requefl, we all returned on board together.   Before fun-fet our boats returned from O-Taha, where they had collected a load of bananas and coco-nuts, and a few hogs.   They landed there on the 1 4th in the morning, after a few hours fail, in a fine bay on the eaft fide, called O Hamene.   The country and its inhabitants perfectly rcfembled thofe of the other iflands in this archipelago.    Their productions, vegetable and animal, were in general the fame,  varying only in the abundance or
G g g 2 fcarcity
i*mm* fcarcity of fome articles. Thus, for inflance, the tree,: which our failors called the apple-tree, (fpondias,) was plentiful at Taheitee, extremely rare at Raietea and Huahine, and not very common at Tahà ; fowls were hardly to be met with at Taheitce, but common in the Society Ifles ; and rats, which infefted Taheitee in numbcrlefs myriads, were not quite fo numerous at O-Taha j flill lefs frequent at Raietea, and feen in very inconfiderable numbers at Huahine.
After our party had dined in O-Hamene harbour, they removed to the next creek to the north, and walked to the houfe of a chief named O-Tàh, where the natives faid there would be a heeva or public dance. The crowd increafed prodigioufty as they approached it, and in their way they faw a woman at a confiderable diflance, dreffed in a Angular habit *, and blacked all over. They were told fhe performed the burial rite, or mourned for a dead per-fon. They found the aree, who was an elderly man, fitting on a wooden ftool, of which he offered one half to my father. The dance was begun fome time after by three young girls, the eldeft not exceeding ten, and the youngeft about five years of age. The ufual mufic was performed on three drums, and in the intervals of the dance three men performed fomething of a pantomime drama, which: reprefented travellers afleep, and thieves dextroufly convcy-
* This is to be defcribed in the fequel.
ing   ' •
ing away their goods, round which they had, for greater Sei,tI7J3b'er fecurity, placed themfelves. During their performance the croud made way for feveral people who advanced towards the houfe in pairs, but flopped at the entrance. They were well dreffed, with fafhes of their red cloth round their loins, and fkains of the tamòw or plaited hair round their heads, and the whole upper part of their body was naked and anointed with coco-nut oil. Some among them were grown men and fome boys. O-Tah called them the O-Da-widdee* which, from the geflures he made to explain himfelf, our people underflood to be mourners. When they appeared the area of the entrance was fprcad with cloth of bark, which was, however, taken up immediately and given to the drummers. One of the latter quarrelled with another native, and they fought, pulling each other by the hair, and giving fome hearty blows. However, that the entertainment might not be interrupted, another drummer was fubftituted, and the boxers turned out of the houfe. Towards the end of the dance the croud made way, and the O-Da-widdee appeared once more, but flood flill, as they had done at firfl, without performing any other particular rite.
A great number of canoes were hauled up along the fhore before the chief's houfe, and in one of them, which
* Mahine and Ornai called them by the name of Hca-biddhee and explained! word to fignify relations,.
had!
had a roof or covering, there was a dead corfe, for which the mourning rites were inflituted. Our gentlemen were obliged, therefore, to lay up their boats a little farther on, where they paffed the night under fhelter of a good houfe, whild it blew and rained exceflively hard.
The next morning the chief, O-Tah, went into the boat with them, and they failed round the north point of the ifle, feeing a number of long low iflands, covered with palm and other trees, which lay in the reef.   They bought a quantity of good bananas about ten o'clock, and dined a little farther to the fouthward, near the houfe of the greateft chief in the ifland, whofe name was Boba, and who governed it as a viceroy for O Poonee, the king of Borabora, (Bolabola) but was not on the ifland at that time.   After dinner they miffed a bag, which contained a number of nails, fome looking-glaffes, and feveral firings of beads, being their whole Rock in trade.   After a fhort debate, the officers refolvcd to feize as much of the pro. perry of the inhabitants as poflible, in order to force them to a reflitution.    They immediately began at the place where they traded, and took away a hog, fome mother of pearl fhells, and a quantity of cloth, not without being obliged to threaten with fire-arms.   The party was then divided ; fome guarded the boats, fome the goods which were feized, and fome, with the lieutenant at their head, advanced into the country in queR of greater feizures. The
old
old chief, O-Tah, accompanied them, and was under the Sept^ ftrongeft influence of fear, which manifefted itfelf like that of the dogs in the fable*.   Wherever they came the inhabitants hurried away before them, and drove their hor:s into  the mountains.    The officer   ordered three mufkets to be  fired to frighten them, upon which a chief, who had one leg and foot fwelied to an enormous fize by the ekpbantiajts, returned and furrendered his hogs and feveral large bales of cloth.    Our people next proceeded to Boba's houfe, which they flripped of two targets and a drum, and with thefe fpoils they retired to the houfe which they had occupied before.   O Tab left them in the evening, but returned foon after with the Rolen bag, containing about one half of the nails, beads, &c. which were taken away with it, and paffed the night among our party. Early the next morning the proprietors of the goods which our people had feized, were told that every thing mould be reftored on condition that they procured the remaining beads and nails.   In the mean time they advanced towards O Herurua Bay on the S. W. part of the  ifland, and, on their way, the chief, O-Tàh, together with the other chief with the elephant's leg, who walked as well as any one of the reft, produced moft of the miffing iron and trinkets, which had been hid in bufhes ; upon which our people gave up the cloth, hogs, targets, &c. which had;
• See Phsdr. Fab,
hitherto
hitherto remained in their hands, and rewarded the owner of the hut, where they had pafled the night, as well as the old chief, for their fidelity and kindnefs. The beads which they had recovered, enabled them to purchafe a quantity of bananas in the diftricT: of Herurua, and afterwards in a bay called A-Poto-Poto, or the Round Bay, where they faw one of the largeft houfes in all the Society Ifles. It was full of inhabtiants, many of whom lodged with their families in different parts of it ; the whole appearing to be rather a public building, erected for the cafual fhelter of travellers, like the carvanfaras of the Eaft, than a private dwelling-houfe. Here they dined, and after dif-pofing of every bead and nail which they had brought with them, fet out on their return to the fhips, where they arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon, thoroughly wet by the waves which beat into their boats.
The next morning, the chief Orca with his family came to take leave of us, and the fhip was filled with the friends of O-Hedeedcc, who embarked with us, bringing him cloth of the country fabric, and a fea provifion of their balls of fermented bread-fruit (mahei) which they are very fond of, and which is one of tlie moft nutritive fabliau ces in the woild. The daughter of Orca, who had never ventured to vifit us before, came on board on this oc:. dun, to beg for the gr.-i-en awning of the car-tain's boat, which had mightily
uck her fancy.   She received abundunce of prefents, but
the
the captain could not poillbly grant her requeft. The trade ||FT"J for their tools, cloth, &c. was very brilli all round the fhip about this time, till the anchor was weighed. Our friends parted from us, with the fincereft expreffions of grief, and fhedding floods of tears, reproached fome of us with a want of fenfibility. Our civilized education in general tends to Rifle the emotions of our heart, for as we are too often taught to be afhamed of them, we unhappily conquer them by cufiom. On the contrary, the fimple child of nature, who inhabits thefe iflands, gives free courfe to all his feelings, and glories in his affection towards the fellow-creature.
Mollifiima corda Humano generi dare fe natura fatetur,
Quae Jacrymas dedit 3 haec noftri pars optima fenfus. Juvenal.
Vol. I.
Hhh
CHAP.
VOYAGE
ROUND THE
W       O       R       L D.
BOOK II. CHAP. I.
Run from the Society Ifles to the Friendly IJles, with an Account of our
TranfaBions there.
WE cleared the reefs of Hamaneno towards ten o'clock, and fleered to the W. S. W. having the iflands of Raietea, Taha, and Borabora in fight. Only one month had clapfed fince our arrival at Taheitee, and yet we found ourfelves recovered from the effects of a long uncomfortable cruize in cold wet climates, and during the worfl of fcafons; and all thofe who had the ftrongeft fymp-toms of the fcurvy at that time, were now as perfectly re-Rorcd to their health as the reft. The vegetables of this delightful group of iflands had, in all likelihood, principally effected our cure, efpecially as we left our firfl place of refrefhment, Aitepeha, in a tolerable Rate of convalescence,
cence, though we had not then tailed any frefh animal ^J^Vi*. food. Our profpccT for the next month to come promifed a continuance of health, for wc carried with us between two and three hundred hogs in each fhip, befidcs a number of fowls and fome dogs, together with a great quantity of bananas, which formed a kind of orchard on our poop. It is true the want of room occafioned the death of feveral hogs, and the obilinacy of the old dogs in refufing to take any fuftenance, deprived us of the greateil number of thofe animals. But we foon took an effectual method of faving our provifions by killing all the hogs which were weakened by confinement, and fire wing the meat with fait. By this means it was preferved, and remained palatable and juicy without being fo unwholefome as the pickled meat we brought from England, which was now fo penetrated with fait, that if we attempted to fweetcn it in water, we extracted all the remaining juices. The only inconvenience which the flay among thefe ifles had brought upon our feamen, was a complaint which arofe from their own intemperance, in carrying on a free connection with common women. But this, though many of them were affected with it, was fortunately of fo flight a nature, that it did not, in general take them from their duty, and yielded quickly to the gentled remedies.
Our young friend Hedeèdee, whom we had taken with us inflead of the Taheitian Porèa, felt himfelf much affect-
H h h 2 cd
sir™ber. ed with the fea-ficknefs, occafioned by the motion of the {hip, to which he was not accuftomed. He told us, however, as we were looking at the high peak of Borabora, that he was born in that ifland, and was nearly related to O-Foonee, the great king who had conquered Tahà and Raietea. He acquainted us, at the fame time, that his own name was properly Mahine, he having exchanged it for that of Hedeedee with a chief in Eimeo ; a cuftom which, as 1 have already obferved in another place, is common in all thefe iflands. His relation, king O-Poonee, was at prefent, according to his account, at Mowrua, an ifland which we paffed in the afternoon. It confiRed of a fingle mountain, of a conic form, rifing into a fharp point ; and from the reports of the inhabitants of Raietea, fome of whom had frequently vifited it, we had reafon to conclude that its productions are perfectly fimilar to thofe of all the other ifles in this group.
Our poor friend did not recover his appetite till the next afternoon, when he feafted on part of a dolphin of twenty-eight pounds weight, which had been caught by one of our feamen. We offered to have it dreffed for him immediately, but he affured us it tailed much better raw ; and accordingly we provided him with a bowl of fea-water, in which he dipped the morfels as in a fauce, and eat them with great relifh, alternately biting into a ball of mahei*, or four bread-fruit parte, inflead of bread.    Before he fat
down
clown to his meal, however, he feparated a little morfei of SePt™***" the flfh and a bit of the mahei, as an offering to the Eatua or Divinity, pronouncing a few words at the fame time, which we underflood to be a fhort prayer. He performed the fame ceremony two days after, when he dined on a raw Monday 40. piece of fhark, Thefe inflances ferved to convince us, that his countrymen have certain fixed principles of religion, and that a kind of ceremonial worfhip takes place among them, which they have perhaps preferved ever fincc their firfl feparation from their anceftors on the continent.
We continued our courfe without any event worthy of ThurflUy.* of notice till the 23d, in the morning, when a low ifland appeared on our larboard bow. We Reered towards it, and about noon found it was divided into two parts ; the latitude which we obferved at that time was r q° 8 fouth. We foon diftinguifhed a quantity of fhrubs and tufted trees upon it, over which rofe a prodigious number of coco-palms. By the help of our glaffes we obferved that the fhore was fandy, but here and there over-run with verdure, which probably was occafioned by the common bindweed of thefe climates {convolvulus BrafiUaifis). A reef as wc apprehended, connected the two parts of the ifland together, which notwithflanding its agreeable appearance, feemed to be entirely uninhabited. Captain Cook gave it the name of Hervey's Ifle, in honour of the prefent earl of Briftol. A bird which refemblcd a fan.d-pipcr in its flight, and
note,
fcpTKWMK. notc> nat^ appeared about the (hip, the day before we made this ifland, and might be Arid to have announced its proximity, but though we obferved another of the Rime fort Sunday 16.    on the 26th, which actually fettled in the rigging, yet we did not fall in with another ifland.    We held a wcfterly courfe from Hervcy's Ifle, which lies in 190 1 8' fouth latitude and 15S0 s\ weft longitude from Greenwich, till Friday01!!*'   the firfl of October, when we faw land before us about two o' clock in the afternoon.   In four hours time we came within two or three leagues of it, and found it of a moderate height ; the hills were covered with trees, and offered a plcafing, though not magnificent profpect.    At the fouth-weft extremity wc obferved  a fmall rocky iflet, and to the  northward   a low land of  greater  extent. from thence we  judged,   that  the ifle  before us  was the fame which Abel Janflen Tafman named Middleburg Ifle, in 1643, and that the other to the north, was that of Amfterdam, difcovered by the fame navigator.    We lay to Saturday 2.    all night, and with day-break paffed round the S. W. point of Middleburg Ifle, and ranged its weftern coaft. There appeared to be fome low land at the bottom of the hills, which contained plantations of fine young bananas, whofe vivid green leaves contraftcd admirably with the different tints of various fhrubberies, and with the brown colour of the coco palms, which feemed to be the effect: of winter.
The
/
The light was Hill fo faint, that we diflinguifhed feveral ocVoii* fires glimmering in the bullies, but by degrees we likewife difcerncd people running along the fhore.    The hills which were low, and not fo high above the level of the fea as the Ifle of Wight, were agreeably adorned with fmall clumps of trees fcattcrcd at fome diftance, and the intermediate ground appeared covered with herbage, like many parts of England.    It was not long before we perceived fome of the inhabitants bufied in launching feveral canoes, and paddling towards us.    We threw  a rope into one of thefe canoes which ran up clofe to us, and one of the three people in her came on board, and prefented a root of the intoxicating pepper-tree of the South Sea Iflands, touched our nofes w^ith his like the New Zeelanders, in  ùgn of friendfhip, and then fat down on the deck without fpcaking a word.    The captain prefented him with a nail, upon which he immediately held it over his own head, and pronounced fagafctai, which was probably  an exprefhon of thankfgiving.   He was naked to the wahl, but from thence to the knees he had a piece of cloth wrapped about him, which feemed to be manufactured much like that of Taheitee, but was covered with a brown colour, and a Rrong glue, which made it Riff, and fit to refill the wet. His Rature was middle-fizcd, and his lineaments were mild and tolerably regular..   His colour was much like that
of
I7n-     of the common Taheitians*, that is, of a clear mahogany
October.
or chefnut brown; his beard was cut fhort or ibaven, and his hair was black, in fliort frizzled curls, burnt as it were at the tips. He had three circular fpots on each arm, about the fize of a crown piece, confuting of feveral concentric circles of elevated points, which anfwered to the punctures of the Taheitians, but were not blacked j befides thefe, he had other black punctures on his body. A fmall cylinder was fixed through two holes in the lap of his ear, and bis left hand wanted the little finger. He continued his filencc for a confiderable while, but fome others, who ventured on board foon after him, were of a more communicative turn, and after having performed the ceremony of touching nofes, fpoke a language which was unintelligible to us at that time. In the mean while we arrived at the N. W. point of the ifland, where we ftruck foundings on a good bottom, in an open road, and let go our anchors about nine in the morning. We were prefently furrounded by a number of canoes, each containing three or four
* As I fhall frequently mention the inhabitants of Taheitee, and of the Society Iflands, in companion with other iflanders, it will be proper to obferve, that fin ce the natives both of Taheitee and of the Society Iflands, are perfectly alike in moft refpecls, I fhall indifferently call a cuftom Taheitian, or ufual at the Society Iflands, which is common to them both. Therefore, unlefs I ex-prefly put thefe terms in con tradì ft in£tion to each other, I wifh to have them underftood in general as fynonymous.
people,
people, who offered great quantities of their cloth for fale. The canoes were fmall, about fifteen feet long, very iharp built, and decked or covered at each extremity. Moft of them had out-riggers made of poles, like the fmall canoes at Taheitee, but the workmanfhip of thefe boats was infinitely preferable, as they were joined together with an exactnefs which furprifed us, and the whole furface had received an excellent polifh. Their paddles had fhort broad blades, fomething like thofe of Taheitee, but more neatly wrought, and of better wood. They made a great deal of noife about us, every one fhewing what he had to fell, and calling to fome one of us, who happened to look towards them, Their language was not unpleafmg, and whatever they faid, was in a finging kind of tone. Many-were bold enough to come on board, without exprcfling the leaft hefitation, and one of thefe feemed to be a chief, or a man of fome quality, and was accordingly treated with a number of prefents, which he feverally laid on his head, when he received them, faying fagafetai every time. Our Englifh cloth and linen he admired moft, and iron wares in the next degree. His behaviour was very free and unconcerned ; for he went down into the cabin, and where-ever we thought fit to conduci: him. He likewife told us, upon our enquiry, that the ifland near which we lay at anchor, (the fame which Tafman called Middleburg) was called Ea-Oowhe among his country-men ; and that the Vol. I. I i i other
other to the north (or Tafman's Amfterdam ifland) bore the name of Tonga-Tabboo. We confulted feveral of the natives, in order to have greater certainty on this point, and always received the fame names in anfwer.
After breakfaft, the captains went on fhore with us and the chief, who had continued on board all that time. A bed of coral rocks furrounded the coafl, towards the landing-place j but many canoes occupied the deep channels between thefe rocks, and a great number of inhabitants in them as well as on the fhore, fhoutcd for joy at our approach. The canoes immediately came along fide the boat, and the natives threw great bales of cloth into it, without afking for any thing in return ; while many of both fexes fwam about perfectly naked, holding up fome trifles, fuch as rings of tortoife-fhell, fifh-hooks of mother of pearl, and the like, for fale. As foon as we could make way through the throng of canoes, we approached as near as poflible to the fhore, and were carried to it out of our boat, for which the natives very readily offered their backs. The people thronged about us with every expreflion of friendfhip, and offered a few fruits, with a variety of arms and utenfils. The cordial reception which we met with, was fuch as might have been expected from a people well acquainted with our good intentions, and accuftomed to the tranfitory vifits of European fhips. But thefe kind iflanders had never feen Europeans among them, and could only have heard-
of
A  VOYAGE  ROUND  THE WORLD. of Tafman who vifited the adjacent Amfterdam ifland. by ini*
' October.
imperfect tradition.   Nothing was therefore more confpi-cuous in their whole behaviour than an open, generous difpofition, free from any mean diftruft.   This was confirmed by the appearance of a great number of women in the croud, covered from the waift downwards, whofe looks and fmiles welcomed us to the fhore.    Mn Hodges deflgned this memorable interview in an elegant picture, which has been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The fame candour with which I have made it a rule to commend the performances of this ingenious artift, whenever they are charaeleriftic of the objects which he meant to reprcfent, obliges me to mention, that this piece, in which the execution of Mr. Sherwin cannot be too much admired, does not convey any adequate idea of the natives of Ea-oowhe or of Tonga Tabbo.   The plates which ornamented the hiftory of captain Cook's former voyage, have been juftly criticifed, becaufe they exhibited to our eyes the pleaf-ing forms of antique figures and draperies, inftcad of thofe Indians of which we wifhed to form fome idea.    But it is alfo greatly to be feared, that Mr. Hodges has lofi the fketches and drawings which he made from Nature in the courfe of the voyage, and fuppliéd the deficiency in  this  cafe,  from his own  elegant  ideas.    The con-npiffeur will   find  Greek contours and features   in this picture, which have never cxifled in the South Sea. He
I i i   2 Will
will admire an elegant flowing robe which involves the whole head and body, in an ifland where the women very rarely cover the ihoulders and breaft ; and he will be ftruck with awe and delight by the*figure of a divine old man, with a long white beard, though all the people of Ea oowhe (have themfelves with mufcle-fhclls.
We foon left the landing place, and followed the chief, who invited us up into the country. The ground from the water's fide rofe fomewhat flcep for a few yards, above which it flattened into a beautiful green lawn, furrounded by tall trees and tufted fhrubberies, and open only to the fea. At the bottom of it, which might be about one hundred yards from the landing-place, we faw a very neat well-looking houfe, of which the roof Hoped down within two feet of the ground. We advanced acrofs the delightful green, which was fo fmooth, that it put us in mind of the fineft fpots in England, and were entreated to fit down in the houfe, which was moft elegantly laid out with mats of the beft workmanlhip. In one corner of it we faw a moveable partition of wicker-work Handing upright, and, from the figns of the natives collected, that it feparated their bed-place. The roof, Hoping down on all fides, was formed of a great number of fpars and round flicks very firmly connected, and covered with a fort of matting made of banana leaves.
We
We were no fooner feated in the houfe, furrounded by   _ T^v
* ■ OCTOBER"
a confiderable number of natives, not lefs than a hundred, than two or three of the women welcomed us with a fong, which, though exceedingly fimple, had a very pleafing effect:, and was highly mufical when compared to the Taheitian fongs. They beat time to it by mapping the fecond finger and thumb, and holding the three remaining fingers upright. Their voices were very fweet and mellow, and they fung in parts. When they had done they were relieved by others, who fung they fame tune, and at laft they joined together in chorus. Avery ingenious gentleman, who was on this voyage with us, has favoured me with one of the tunes which he heard in this ifland, which may ferve as a fpecimen to the mufical part of my readers.
piééìéééIì
In this little fpecimen the mufic is in the minor key, (a flat third.) They varied the four notes without ever going lower than A or higher than E ; finging them rather flow,
and fometimes ending with the chord
The kindnefs of the people was expreffed in every look and gefture, and they freely offered us fome coco-nuts, of which we found the liquor very palatable. We were like-wife regaled with a moft delicious perfume in this place, which the breeze wafted towards us.   It was a confiderable
time
October, urne before we difcovered from whence it proceeded ; but at laft having looked at fome fliady trees at the back of the houfe, we perceived they were of the lemon tribe, and covered with beautiful branches of white flowers, which fpread this fragrant fmell. The natives foon brought us fome of the fruits, which we knew to be of the kind called fliaddocks in the Weft-Indies, and pomplemofcs at Ba-tavia and the adjacent Earl-Indian ifles. Their fhape was perfectly globular, their fize almoft as large as a child's head, and their tafle extremely pleafant.
On both fides of the lawn we took notice of a fence or cnclofure made of reeds, diagonally plaited in an elegant tafte. A door, which confided of feveral boards, and was hung on a rope inftcad of hinges, gave admittance into a plantation on each fide. We feparated, in order to examine this beautiful country, and at every flep had reafon to be well plcafcd with our difcoveries. The door was fo contrived as to fhut after us without any ailiflance, and the enclofures were over-run with climbers, and efpecially a bind-weed, having flowers of a beautiful fky-blue. The profpect now changed into an extcnfive garden, where we faw a number of tufted (haddock-trees, tall coco-palms, • many bananas, and a few bread-fruit trees. In the midft of this fpot the path led us to a dvvelling-houfe, like that on the lawn, furrounded by a great variety of fhrubs in blof-fom, whofe fragrance filled the air.   Wc roamed through
thefe
thefe bullies, and collected a variety of plants which we had never met with in the Society Ifles. The inhabitants feemed to be of a more active and induftrious difpofition than thofe of Taheitee, and inilead of following us in great crouds wherever we went, left us entirely by ourfelves, un-lefs we entreated them to accompany us. In that cafe wc could venture to go with our pockets open, unlefs we had nails in them, upon which they fet fo great a value that they could not always refill the temptation. We paffed through more than ten adjacent plantations or gardens, feparated by enclofures, communicating with each other by means of the doors before mentioned. In each of them we commonly met with a houfe, of which the inhabitants were abfent. Their attention to feparate their property feemed to argue a higher degree of civilization than we had expected. Their arts, manufactures, and mufic were all more cultivated, complicated, and elegant than at the Society Iflands. But, in return, the opulence, or rather luxury,, of the Taheitians feemed to be much greater. We faw but few hogs and fowls here, and that great fupport of life, the bread-tree, appeared to be very fcarce. Yams, therefore, and other roots, together with bananas, are their principal articles of diet. Their cloathing too, compared to that of Taheitee, was lefs plentiful, or at leaft not converted into fuch an article of luxury as at that ifland. Laftly, their houfes, though neatly conftructed, and always
placed!
placed in a fragrant fhrubbery, were lefs roomy and convenient.   We made thefe reflections as we advanced towards the landing place, where feveral hundred natives were af-fembled ; and their appearance immediately ftruck us witli the idea, that if they did not enjoy fo great a profufion of the gifts of nature as the Taheitians, thofe gifts were perhaps diftributed to all with greater equality.    We advanced among them, and were accoflcd with careffes by old and young, by men and women.   They hugged us very heartily, and frequently kiffed our hands, laying them on their breaft, with the mofl exprcffive looks of affection that can be imagined.  The general nature of the men was equal to our middle fize, from five feet three to five feet ten inches.   The proportions of the body were very* fine, and the contours of the limbs extremely elegant, though fomcthing more mufcular than at Taheitee, which may be owing to a greater and more conliant exertion of Rrength in their agriculture and ceconomy.   Their features were extremely mild and pleafing, and differed from the Taheitian faces, in being more oblong than round ; the nofe (harper, and the lips rather thinner.   Their hair was generally black and ftrongly curled, and the beard (haven or rather dipt by means of a couple of (harp mufcle (hells, (myti/i.) The women were, in general, a few inches (horter than the men, but not fo fmall as the lower clafs of women at Taheitee and the Society Ifles.   Their body was exquifitely
pro-
proportioned down to the waift, and their hands and arms 0c™7B3E'Rt were to the full as delicate as thofe of the Taheitian women ; hut like them they had fuch large feet and legs as did not harmonize with the reft.   Their features, though without regularity, were as agreeable as we had in general obferved them at the Society Ifles ; but we recollected many individuals there, efpecially of the principal families, to which none of thefe could be compared.   The complexion of both fexes here was the fame, a light chefnut-brown, which had commonly the appearance of perfect health.   That difference of colour and corpulence, by which we immediately diftinguiflied the ranks at Taheitee, was not to be met with in this ifland.   The chief, who had vifited us on board and accompanied us to the fhore, was in nothing different from the common people, not even in his drefs ; it was only from the obedience which was paid to his orders that we concluded his quality.   The cufiom of puncturing the fkin and blacking it, was in full force among the men, and their belly and loins were very ftrong-ly marked in configurations more compounded than thofe of the Taheitians.   The tendereft parts of the body were not free from thefe punctures, the application of which, bcfides being very painful, muft be extremely dangerous on glandulous extremities, and juftly excited our aflonifh-ment.
. et pietà pandit fpe&acula, cauda ! HoR.
Vol. I. K k k The
\m< xhe women, however, were exempted from this cudom
er, 1 * r
of disfiguring themfelves, and had only a few black dots on their hands.    But befidcs thefe, both fexcs had three fpots on the arms, confiding of concentric circles of punctures, without any blacking, which I have mentioned before.    The men in general went almod naked, having only a fmall bit of cloth round the loins.   Some, however, wore a drefs nearly refcmbling that of the women. This was a long piece of cloth made of bark, in the fame manner as the Taheitee cloth, but afterwards painted chequer-wife, or in patterns nearly refcmbling our painted floorcloths, and covered with a fize, which turned the wet for a long while.    This they wrapped round their waid, the men nearly about their middle, the women more immediately under the bread, and in both it commonly defcended below the knees.   Indead of the cloth they likewife fub-ftituted mats, extremely well wrought, in form refembling thofe of Taheitee, and fometimes, though rarely, covered even their moulders and breads with them.    The men frequently wore a firing round their necks, from which a mother of pearl fhell hung down on the bread. The women often had loofe necklaces, confiding of feveral drings of fmall fhclls, intermixed with feeds, teeth of fifhes, and in the middle of all the round operculum, or cover of a fhell, as large as a crown-piece.   Both their ears were perforated, and fometimes with two holes, and a little cylinder cut out
of
of tortoife-fhell or bone, was Ruck through both the holes. Sometimes thefe cylinders were only of reed, filled with a red folid fubftance, painted and lacquered with different colours in regular compartments. The mod fingular cir-cumflance which we obferved among thefc people was, that many of them wanted the little finger on one and fometimes on both hands ; the differences of fex or age did not exempt them from this amputation ; for even amongft the few children, whom we faw running about naked, the greater part had already fuffercd this lofs. Only a few grown people, who had preferved both their little fingers, were an exception to the general rule. Wc immediately conjectured that the death of a near relation or friend might require thefe Rrange mutilations, in the fame manner as is cuflomary among the Hottentots, in Africa *j the Guaranos, in Paraguay ; and the Californians ; and our enquiries, though unfuccefsful at firfl, afterwards confirmed the conjecture. Another Angularity, which wc obferved to be very general among thefc people, was a round fpot on each cheek-bone, which appeared to have been burnt or bliftercd. Some had it quite recent, in others it was covered with a fcurf, and many had a very flight mark of its former exigence. We could never learn how and for what purpofc it was made ; but we fuppofed it could only be
* See Kolbcn's account of the Cape of Good Hope; alfo the Rechcrches Phìlofophiques fur les Arr.ericains, par M. Pauw, vol. II. p. 224, 229.
K k k 2 ufed
ufed like the Japanefe moxa, as a remedy againft various complaints.
Notwithflanding the engaging manners of the natives, we forefaw that we fhould make but a very fhort flay among them, becaufe our captains could not obtain refrefh-ments in any confiderable quantity ; which might be owing not fo much to their fcarcity upon the ifland, as to the difficulty of making our goods current for fuch valuable articles, when they could obtain them in exchange for arms and utenfils.   They had brought indeed a few yams, bananas, coco-nuts, and fhaddocks for faie, but they foon dropt that branch of trade.    Our people purchafed an incredible number of fifh hooks made of mother of pearl, barbed with tortoife-fhell, but in fhape exactly refembling the Taheitee fifh-hooks, called witte-witte* ; fome of which were near feven inches long.   They likewife bought their fhells, which  hung on the breaft, their necklaces, bracelets of mother of pearl, and cylindrical flicks for the ear. They had the neateft ornamental combs that can be imagined, confiding of a number of little flat flicks about five inches long, of a yellow wood like box, moft firmly and elegantly connected together at the bottom by a tiffue of the fibres of coco-nut, fome of which were of their natural colour, and others dyed black.   Thefe fibres were likewife employed
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 218.   Alfo Parkinfon's Journal, p. 77, and Tab. XIII. fig. 25,'
in
ir -liking a great varies/ of bafkets, wrought with regular i   runrtments of two colours, brown and black, or fornelli brown, and ornamented with rows of round flat s, which were made by cutting pieces of fliells into (hape.   The tafle   and the workmanfhip of thefe kf-rs were elegant in the higheft degree, and varied into dir" rent forms and patterns.   Thofe little flools, which ferve as pillows for the head, were much* more frequent here than at Taheitee ; flattifh bowls, in which they place their meat, and fpatulas with which they mix up the bread-fruit palle, were likewife in great abundance, and made of the club-wood [cafuarina equij'tifeolia), which had this name from fupplying all the iflanders in the South Sea with weapons.    The clubs of the people of this ifle, Were of an infinite variety of fhapes, and many of them fo ponderous that we could fcarce manage them with one hand ; the mofl common form was quadrangular, fo as to make a rhomboid at the broad end, and gradually tapering into a round handle at the other.   But many were fpatu-lated, flattifh, and pointed ; fome had long handles and a blade which refembled the blade of a fleam ; others were crooked, knobbed, &c.    But by far the greatefl part were carved all over in many chequered patterns, which feemed to have required a long fpace of time, and incredible patience, efpecially when we confider, that a fharp flone, or a piece of coral, are the only tools   which the natives
can
can employ in this kind of work. All the different compartments were wrought and divided with a regularity which quite furprifed us, and the whole furface of the plain clubs was as highly polifhed, as if our beft workmen had made them with the beft inftru-mcnts. Befides clubs, they had fpears of the fame wood, which were fometimes plain, (harp pointed flicks, and fometimes barbed with a fling-ray's tail. They had like-wife bows and arrows, of a peculiar con fl ruction, The bow which was fix feet long, was about the thicknefs of a little finger, and when flack, formed a flight curve. Its convex part was channelled with a fingle deep groove, in which the bow firing was lodged, and which was likewife big enough fometimes to contain the arrow made of reed, near fix feet long, and pointed with hard wood. When the bo.v was to be bent, inftead of drawing it fo as to encreafe the natural curvature, they drew it the contrary way, made it perfectly flrait, and then formed the curve on the other fide. The bow firing by this means never needed to be tenfe, as the arrow received fufficient moment by changing the natural bent of the bow ; the recoil of which was never violent enough to hurt the arm. Our feamen, unacquainted with the nature of thefe weapons, broke feveral of them by drawing them like other bows. The immenfe quantity of arms belonging to the natives, correfponded very ill with the pacific  difpofition, which had flrongly
Rione
Rione through their whole behaviour towards us, and which dill manifefted itfelf in their readincfs to difpofe of . them. It is probable that they have fometimes quarrels amongft themfelves, or wage war with the neighbouring iflands, but we could by no means difcover any thing from their convcrfation or figns, which might have fcrved to throw a light on this fubjeci:. The feveral articles above enumerated, together with all their forts of cloth, their elegant mats, which for workmanGiip and variety excelled even thofe of Taheitee, and a great many other trifles too tedious to mention, they brought to fell, and with great eagcrnefs exchanged for fmall nails, and fometimes for beads. But in refpect of the latter their tafle was different from that of the Taheitians ; for the latter always chofc thofe that were tranfparcnt, but the people of Ea-oowhc would take no other than black opaque beads, with red, blue, and white ftripes. We traded with them till dinner-time, and then rc-embarked in order to return on board the fhips ; but were obliged to fit down contented with the lofs of a grapnel, which the natives had contrived to ficai almoft as foon as it was let down into the water. Their kind looks and acclamations followed us till we returned on board, where a number of them traded in their canoes with the fame forts of goods which wc had purchafed on fhore. We faw feveral perfons among them afflicted with leprous* complaints, in fome of which the diforder had rifen to a
high degree of virulence ; one man in particular had his whole back, and moulders covered with a large cancerous ulcer, which was perfectly livid within, and of a bright yellow all round the edges.    A woman was likewife unfortunate enough to have all her face deRroyed by it in the moft (hocking manner ; there was only a hole left in the place of her nofe ; her cheeks were fwelled up and continually oozing out a purulent matter ; and her eyes feemed ready to fall out of her head, being bloody and fore. Thefc were fome of the moft miferable objects I recollect ever to have feen; and yet they feemed to be quite unconcerned about their misfortunes, traded as brifkly as any of the reft, and what was moft naufeous, had provifions to fell.
After dinner Dr. Sparrman remained on board with me, in order to arrange our acquifitions of the morning, and my father again accompanied tiie captains to the fhore, with a view to collect a frefh fupply. They returned about fun-fet, and my father gave the following account of this cxcurfion,
M At the landing-place the natives welcomed us with fhouts as in the morning, and the croud being as numerous as ever, the trade was carried on very brifkly, but provifions were fcarce, and fhaddocks in particular not at all to be had, as the feafon was not yet furRciently advanced. Mr. Hodges, myfelf, and one fervanr, left the trading-place with
two
A   VOYAGE HOUND THE WORLD.
44i
two of the natives, whom wc engaged to become our 0c'^ guides in cafe of neceflity, and walked up the hill to view the interior part of the country.    Our walk lay through a number of rich plantations or gardens, enclofed as before mentioned with fences of reeds, or with quick-hedges of the beautiful coral flower, (erythrina coralkdendron.) Beyond thefe we entered into a lane between two enclofures, and obferved bananas and yams planted in rows on both fides, with as much order and regularity as we employ in our agriculture.   This lane opened into a fine extenfive plain, covered with rich gralTes.   Llaving crolTed it, we met with a moR delightful walk about a mile in length, formed of four rows of coco-nut trees, which ended in another lane between plantations of great regularity,   furrounded by fhaddocks and other trees.    It led through a cultivated valley to a fpot where feveral paths croffed each other or met in one.   Here we faw a fine lawn covered with a delicate green turf, and furrounded by large fhady trees on all fides. In one corner of it there was a houfe, which was empty at prefent, its inhabitants being probably  by the water's fide.   Mr. Hodges fat down to draw this delightful fpor. We breathed the moR delicious air in the world, fraught .with odours which might have revived a dying man ; the fea breeze played with our hair and gently cooled us ; a number of fmall birds twittered on all fides, and many amorous doves cooed harmonioufly in the deepell fhade of Vol. I. L 1 1 the
I77^     the tree under which we were feated.   The tree was re^-
tober.
markable for its roots, which came out of the {lem near eight feet above the ground, and for its pods of more than a yard long, and two or three inches broad.   This fecluded fpor, fo rich in the beft productions of nature, where we fat folitary with no other human being befides our two natives, ftruck us with the idea of enchanted ground, which being the creation of our own gay fancy, is commonly adorned with all polRble beauties at once.   In fact, there could not have been a more deferable fpot for a little place of retirement, according to the elegant imagination of Horace, if it had only been fupplied with a cryftal fountain or a little murmuring rill ! But water is unfortunately the only blefiing denied this charming little ifland.   To the left of this fpot we difcovered a fhady walk, that brought us to another graffy lawn, at the bottom of which we perceived a little mount with two huts upon ir.   A number of reeds fluck into the ground, at the diftance of one foot afunder, encompafled this rifing, and feveral cafuarinas, with their flender branches and thread-like leaves, were planted before it.   The natives, whom we had engaged to accompany us, would not approach this mount ; but we advanced and looked into the huts, though with great difficulty, becaufe the bottom of the roof was not above a fpan from the ground.   We found a corfe in one of thefe huts, which had been lately depofued ; but the other was
empty.
empty.   Thus the cafuarina or club-wood (tèa), here, as in the Society Iflands, pointed out the repofitories of the dead.   Its dull brownifh-green colour, and its long fprcad-ing branches, where the leaves are thinly fcattered and hang weeping down, certainly become thefe melancholy places to the full as well as the funereal cyprefs.   It is therefore probable that  the fame train of ideas, which confecratcd the latter in one part of the world to iliade the tombs, might fix upon the former in thefe regions for a fimilar purpofc.    The mount on which the huts were placed was formed of fmall pieces of coral rock, like gravel, accumulated without any particular order.   From thence'we proceeded a little farther, and ftill found the fame elegant plantations and the fame kind of houfes in the middle as before.    Our natives conducted us through one of them, where they entreated us to fit down, and procured fome coco nuts, which proved extremely refrefhing.   At our return we found our boats juft ready to put off, and embarked with them immediately. We had only feen a few of the natives on our walk, who paffed unconcernedly by us towards the place where the captains traded ; and I believe we fhould have been entirely left to ourfelves if we had not engaged two of them to become our conductors. The difcharge of our guns, and their effect, neither excited their admiration nor their fear} but they always appeared kind and courteous towards us.   Their women were, in general,
L 1 1 2 referved,
referred, and turned with di'fguft from the immodcit behaviour of ungovernable fcamcn, fome of them however appeared to be of cafy virtue, and beckoned to our people with lafcivious geflures.'*
The next morning early the captain went on more with us, and prefented the chief with a variety of garden feeds, explaining by figns how ufeful they would prove to him. This was as yet our only mode of converfation, though we had picked up a number of words, which, by the help of the principles of univerfal grammar, and the idea of dialects, we eafily perceived had a great affinity with the language fpoken at Taheitee and the Society Ifles. O-Mai and' Manine (or O-Hedeèdee,) the two natives of Raietea and Borabora who embarked with us, at firfl declared that the language was totally new and unintelligible to them? however, when we explained to them the affinity of feveral words, they prefently caught the peculiar modification of this dialect, and converfed much better with the natives than we could have done after a long intercourfe with them. They were extremely well pleafed with this country, but foon perceived its defects, and told us there was but fcanty provifion of bread-fruit, few hogs and fowls, and no dogs, which was really the cafe. In return, however,, they liked the abunda nee of fugar-canes and of intoxicating pepper, of which the drink had been offered to captain Cook.
As-
As foon as the captains had delivered their prefent, they returned to the mips, and the chief came on board with us. Our anchor was weighed, our fails were fpread to the wind, and we forfook this happy ifland when we had fcarce difcovered its beauties. The chief, after felling a number of fi ih-hooks for nails and beads, hailed one of the canoes which were palling by, and left us with looks which fpoke his friendly, open difpofition.
We now failed along the weftern fhore of Tafman's Am-flerdam ifland, which the natives called Tonga-Tabboo, and found it a very low flat land, compared with that which we had left. The middle of this ifland is nearly in 2 iQ 1 i'S, latitude, and 175° W. longitude. Its highefl elevation above the level of the fea, appeared to the eye never to exceed fix or feven yards perpendicular. On the other hand, its extent was much more confiderable than that of Ea-oowhe, and by the help of our fpying-glaffes, we difcovered the fame regular plantations which we had fo much admired there, and faw the fhores crouded with inhabitants, who gazed at us, probably with as much attention as we beftowed upon them. When we were about half way between both iflands, or nearly three leagues from each, we were met by feveral canoes full of men, who attempted to come along-fide, but as we happened to be too far to windward, they could only fetch the Adven-venture, where they came on board.
In the afternoon we approached the nonhernmoft end of the ifland, and perceived fome fmall ifles connected by reefs to the eaftward.   Their fituation and that of the fhoal to the north-weft, where the fea broke with great violence, convinced us that we were now arrived at the very place where Tafman anchored in 1643, and which he called Van Die meri'8 Road.   Here we dropped an anchor upon a rocky bank, and were immediately furrounded with numbers of the natives, fome in canoes,  and fome fwimming, though we lay about a quarter of a mile from the fhore. We found them to be of the fame nation which inhabited Ea-oowhe, and their mercantile turn prompted them to bring an immenfe quantity of their cloth, mats, nets, utenfils, arms, and ornaments, which they eagerly exchanged for beads and nails.   The fhips were no fooncr moored, than a prohibition was made againft purchafing curiofuies, and the natives were told to bring coco-nuts, bread-fruit, yams, and bananas, as well as hogs and fowls, of which we had already learnt the names.   We purchafed a fmall quantity of provifions the fame evening, to give an example to the reft of the inhabitants, who were obliged to take their merchandize on fhore again.   The good effects of this ftep appeared the next morning, when the natives returned from fhore at day-break, and had loaded their canoes with vegetables and fowls.   Many of them came on board as freely as if wc had been old acquaintances, and did not
appear
appear to have the leaft idea of diftruft. One of them, a well made man, with a handfomc open countenance, feemed to have fome authority among them, like the chief whom we had feen on Ea-oowhe. He defcended into the cabin, acquainted us that his name was Attahha, and received feveral prefents, among which he fat a high value on iron, and on red European broad-cloth. After breakfaft he went on more with us in the pinnace. A coral reef furrounded the coaft, at the diftance of a mufliet-fhor, and a fingle narrow pafs admitted us within it, where we found the water fo full of rocks and fo (hallow, that we were obliged to be carried out of the boat, A party of the marines were polled on the beach in cafe of danger, to protect the captain's clerk, who traded for provifions. The natives did not exprefs either furprize or diflike at this proceeding, perhaps becaufe they were unacquainted with its meaning. They received us with acclamations of joy as at Ea-oowhe, and defired us to fit down with them on the rocks along fhore, which confi lied of coral, and were covered with fhell fand. We purchafed feveral beautiful parroquets, pigeons, and doves, which they brought to us perfectly tame ; and our young Borabora-man Mahine (or Hedèedee) traded with great cagernefs for ornaments made of bright red feathers, which he allured us had an extraordinary value at Taheitee and the Society Iflands. Here they were commonly pafled to aprons ufed in their dances, and made of the fibres of
coco-
coco-nut, or fixed upon banana leaves, forming rhomboidal frontlets or diadems, Sec. With a degree of extafy which gave the greatefl weight to his affertion, he fhe wed us that a little piece of feathered-work, as broad as two or three fingers, would purchafe the largefl hog in his ifland. Both this youth and O-Mai were much pleafed with the inhabitants of thefe iflands, and began to underfland their language tolerably well.
We left the beach after the firfl acquaintance with the natives, and afcended a few feet into a wild forefl confittitig of tall trees, intermixed with fhrubberies. This wood though narrow, being in many places not above one hundred yards wide, was continued along the fhore of Van Diemen's road, being more or lefs open in various parts.    Beyond it the whole ifland was perfectly level.   We walked acrofs a piece of uncultivated land, about five hundred yards wide, which adjoined to the wood.    Part of it appeared to have been planted with yams, but the reft was full of grafs, and had a little fwamp in the middle, where the purple water-hen, or pule fu!tane, refuted in great numbers.   As foon as we left this, we entered into a lane about fix feet wide, between two fences of reed, which enclofed extenfive plantations on each fide.   Here we met many of the natives, who were travelling to the beach with loads of provifions, and cour-•teoufly bowed their heads as they paffed by us in fign of iiiendlhip, generally pronouncing fome monofyllable or
other*
other, which feemed to correfpond to the Taheitian tayo. The cnclofures, plantations, and houfes were exactly in the fame Ryle as at Ea-oowhe, and the people had never failed to plant odoriferous fhrubs round their dwellings. The mulberry, of which the bark is manufactured into cloth, and the bread-tree, were more fcarce than at the Society Ifles, and the apple of thofe iflands was entirely unknown, but the fhaddock well fupplied its place. The feafon of fpring, which revived the face of all nature, adorning every plant with bloffoms, and infpiring with joyful fongs the feathered tribe, doubtlefs contributed in a great meafure to make every object pleafing in our eyes. But the induftry and elegance of the natives, which they difplayed in planting every piece of ground to the greatefl advantage, as well as in the neatnefs and regularity of all their works, demanded our admiration, whilft it gave us room to fup-pofe, that they enjoyed a confiderable degree of happinefs.
One of the lanes between the cnclofures led us to a little grove, which we admired for its irregularity. An immenfe cafuarina tree far out topped the reft, and its branches were loaded with a vafl number of blackifh creatures, which we took for crows at a diftance, but which proved to be bats when we came nearer. They clung to the twigs, by the hooked claws, which arc at the extremity of their webbed fingers and toes ; fometimes they hung with the head downwards, and fometimes the reverfe.   We fhot
Vol. I. M m m at
at them, and brought down fix or eight at once, befides wounding feveral others which held faft on the tree. They were of the kind which is commonly called the vampyre *, and mcafurcd from three to four feet between the expanded wings.    A great number of them were diflurbed at our firing, and flew from the tree very heavily, uttering a fittili piping note j fome likewife arrived from remote parts at intervals to the tree, but the greatefl: number remained in their pofition, and probably go out to feed only by night. As they live chiefly upon fruir, it is likely that they commit great depredations in the orchards of the natives, fome of whom being prefent when we fired, feemed very well plea fed with the death of their enemies.    We had feen fome of them who had caught thefe bats alive, and placed them in a cage of wicker work very ingenioufly contrived, with an entrance like that of a fifli-bafker, where the animal could eafily be put in, but could not come out again. They likewife allured us the bats were very mordacious, for which purpofe they feemed indeed to be well provided with large fharp teeth.
We had already obferved at Taheitee, at the Society Iflands, and even at Ea-oowhe, that wherever we met with a cafuarina, a burying-place was at hand. Therefore, at fight of this venerable tree, which was hung with ill-omened creatures, we immediately conjectured that it would
* La Rougette, of M, de Buffon.    Vampyrus of Linne, and Pennant.
lead
lead us to a cemetery or place of worfhip, and the event fhewed that we were not miflakcn.   We found a beautiful green lawn, enclofed on all fides by fhady bufhes and trees, amongfi which  cafuarinas,   pandangs,   and wild fago-palms appeared with their various tints of green,    A row of Barringtonias, as big as the lofticft oaks, formed one fide of it, and ftrcwed it with their large blufhing flowers. At the upper end of if,  there was a rifing two or three feet high, fet out with coral-ftones cut fquare.   The area above was covered with a green fod, like the red of the lawn. Two Reps, likewife of coral rock, led up to this parr, in the midft of which a houfe was fituated, exactly like that which we faw at Ea-oowhe.   Its length was about twenty, the breadth fifteen, and the height of the ridge ten feet. The roof descended Hoping nearly to the ground, and was made of banana leaves.    We entered into this building with only one of the natives, the reft keeping at fome diftance.   We found the floor covered with broken pieces of white coral rock, and in one corner a heap of blackifh pebbles, about eight feet long, which was elevated a foot above the white ftones.    The native told us that a man lay buried there, and pointing to the place where his little finger had formerly been cut away, he plainly fignified that when his maduas or parents * died, they mutilated their hands.   We found two pieces of wood a foot long, carved
* Perhaps any relations in the afcending line.
M m m 2 into
-tow *nt0 *°mc refemblance of the human figure, like thofe which are called e-tee at Taheitee, but they were treated in the fame manner, that is without the lead degree of refpeel: or veneration, being frequently trod upon ancl kicked about. Thefe burying-places, which are called a-fayrtooca in the language of the country, are always delightfully fituated on green lawns, and furrounded with the fineft groves* That which I have here defcribed, was drawn by Mr. Hodges, and an exact reprefentation of it is inferted in captain Cook's* own account of this voyage.
We continued our walkthrough the plantations, and met with very few inhabitants, they being almoft all gone towards the trading-place. Thofe we faw paffed by us, or continued their occupations without (lopping on our account. Neither curiofity, nor diftruft and jealoufy excited them to prohibit our farther progrefs ; on the contrary, they always fpoke in a kind tone to us, which fufHciently characterized their difpofition. We looked into many of the houfes and found them empty, but always laid out with mats, and delightfully fituated among odoriferous fhrubs. Sometimes they were feparated from the plantations by a little fence, through which a door, like thofe of Ea-oowhe, gave admittance, which could be fhut on the infide. In that cafe only the area, which this fence enclofcd around the hut, was planted with the odoriferous grove, which is fo much in requeft with the natives,    A walk of three
miles
miles brought us to the eallern fhore of the ifland, where it forms a deep angle, which Tafman called Maria Bay. Where we fell in with it, the ground floped imperceptibly into a fandy beach j but as we walked along towards the north point, we found it rofe perpendicularly, and in fome places it was excavated and overhanging. It confided, however, entirely of coral, which is a flrong proof of fome great change on our globe, as this rock can only be formed under water. Whether it was left bare by a gradual diminution of the fea, or perhaps by a more violent revolution which our earth may formerly have fuffered, I (hall not venture to determine. So much, however, may be af-fumed as a certainty, that if we fuppofe a gradual diminution of the fea, at the rate which they pretend to have obferved in Sweden*, the emerfion of this ifland muft be of fo modern date, that it is matter of aftonifhment how it came to be covered with foil, herbage, and forefls ; fo well flocked with inhabitants, and fo regularly adorned as we really found it. We picked up a quantity of fhells at the foot of the fteep rock, where we fometimes waded in water to the knees upon a reef, on account of the flood tide which was advancing. We likewife met with feveral natives returning from the trading-place, who fold us a number of fifli-hooks and ornaments, a fifh-net made like our cafting-nets, knit of very firm though (lender threads, fome
* Sec the Memoirs of the SvveUifli Academy of Sciences at Stockholm.
mats
*«?»«    mats and pieces of cloth.   We likewife purchafcd of them an apron, confiding of many wheels or flars of plaited coco-nut fibres, about three or four inches in diameter, cohering together by the projecting points, and ornamented with fmall red feathers and beads cut out of lliclls. Finding that the water encreafed too fad upon us, we looked out for riti afcenr to the top of the rock, and having with fome difficulty found one, we re-entered the plantations, where we obferved the weeds rooted out with great care and laid in heaps to dry. After a long walk, during which we miffed cur way, and engaged one of the natives to become our guide, we entered a long narrow lane between two fences,  which led us  directly to the Fayetboca or bury-ing-place wc had left before.    Here We found captains Cook and Furneaux, and Mr. Hodges, with a great number of natives, feated on the fine lawn,   they were in convcr-fation with an old blear-eyed man, who had a good deal of weight among the red of the people, and was always accompanied by a number of them wherever he went. We were told that he had conducted our gentlemen to xwofaye-thocas, and had pronounced a folemn fpeech or prayer, with his face directed to the building, but at times turning to captain Cook, and addreffmg the words to him, in a qucf-tioning tone.   In thefe moments he always made a fhort paufc, as if he expected an anfwer, and feeing a nod enfue, proceeded with his fpeech.   Sometimes, however, his memory.
mory feemed to fail, upon which he was prompted by another man who fat near him. From this ceremony, and the place where it was performed, we conjectured that he was a prieft. However, as far as we could fee into their religious notions, it did not appear that they practifed any kind of idolatry j neither did they feem to have any particular veneration for birds like the Taheitians, but to wor-fhip a fupreme invinole Being. What may have induced them, as well as the pie of Taheitce and the Society Ifles, to unite their rcpofiturics of the dead and their places of worfhip in one, remains in obfeurity. The religious tenets of a people are the laft things which ftrangers become acquainted with, whofe knowledge of the language is commonly too imperfect. Befides this, the dialect of the church frequently differs from the common dialect, and thus religion is veiled in myftcries, cfpccially where there arc priefls to take advantage of the credulity of mankind.
From this place we returned to the fea fhore, where a brifk trade for vegetables, fowls, and hogs was carried on. Here we bought a large flat fhicld or brcaft-plate, of a roundiih bone, white and poliflied like ivory, about eighteen inches in diameter, which appeared to have belonged to an animal of the cetaceous tribe. We likewife found a new mufical inftrumcnt, confiding of eight, nine, or ten flender reeds, about nine inches long, joined to each other hy fome fibres of coco-nut core.   The length of its reeds
feldom
feldom varied much, and the long and fhort ones were placed promifcuouily ; a notch was formed at the top of each, and the method of playing was only to Ride the in-flrument backwards and forwards along the lips. It had commonly not above four or five different notes, and we never met with one which included a whole octave. Its refemblance to the fyrinx, or Pan's flute of the civilized Greeks, dignified it much more than any mufic which it contained. From the method of playing it, the lovers of mufic will eafily conceive that this divine art is entirely in its infancy among the inhabitants. The vocal part, which is the fame as we had already obferved it at Ea-oowhe, is very far from being unharmonious, and the women beat time to it by fnapping their fingers very exactly; but its whole extent is only of four notes, and therefore cannot admit of any variety. They had likewife a flute of a bamboo-reed, nearly of the thicknefs of a German flute, which they played with the noflrils, like the Taheitians. They commonly had ornamented it with various little figures, burnt in, and pierced four or five holes in it, whereas the Taheitian flute had but three in all. The method of ornamenting wood by burning figures into it, was frequently obferved in their bowls and various other utcnfils.
It was near fun-fet when we returned on board with our collection, and found the veffels flill furrounded by many canoes, and the natives fwimming about extremely
vocife-
vociferous.   Among them were a confiderable number of women, who wantoned in the water like amphibious creatures, and were eafiiy pcrfuaded to come on board, per-fectly naked, without profeffing greater chaftity than the common women at Taheitee, and the Society Ifles. Our feamen took advantage of their difpofition, and once more oiTcred to our eyes a fcene worthy of the Cyprian temples. A fliirt, a fmall piece of cloth, nay a few beads, were fometimes fuflicient temptations, for which fome of the women of Tonga-Tabboo, proftituted themfelves without any fenfc of marne.   This lubricity was, however, very far from being general, and we had reafon to believe that not a fingle married woman was guilty of infidelity.   If we had been acquainted with the diftinction of ranks as at Taheitee, it is highly probable, that we fhould have obferved no other proftitutes than fuch as belonged to the lowcR clafs of people.   Still it remains an unaccountable Angularity in the character of the nations of this part of our globe, that they fuffer any of their unmarried women to admit the promifcuous embraces of a multitude of lovers. Can they imagine, that after giving fuch an unlimited courfe to the impulfes of nature, they will make better wives, than the innocent and the chafle ? But it is in vain that we endeavour to find reafons for the arbitrary whims of mankind.   Their opinions in refpeci: of the fex in particular, have been infinitely various in all ages and countries. Vol. I. N n n In
In fome parts of India, no man of confequence will con-defccnd to marry a virgin ; in Europe fhe wTho has loft that character is univerfally rejected. Turks, Arabs, Tartars, and Ruffians are jealous even of an imaginary characterif-tic of virginity, which the native of Malabar beftows upon his Idol.
None of thefe women ventured to flay on board after fun-fet, but returned to the fhore to pafs the night, like the greater part of the inhabitants, under the fhade of the wild wood which lined the coaft. There they lighted numerous fires, and were heard converfing during the greatefl part of the night. It feems their cagernefs to continue the trade with us, would not permit them to return to their dwellings, which were probably fituated in the remoteft part of the ifland. Our goods were in great repute with them. Nails, which the natives commonly hung on a firing round the neck, or fluck through the ear, were very current for fowls, and fmaller ones for bunches of bananas, and coconuts. Their fowls were the largcft we had ever feen, and extremely well-tafted. Their plumage was commonly very gloffy, and beautifully coloured with red and gold. Our failors bought numbers of them, in order to enjoy the barbarous amufemcnt of feeing them fight. From the time of our leaving Huahine, they had daily followed the cruel occupation of tormenting thefe poor birds, by trimming their wings, and incenfing them againft each other. They
had
had fo well fucceeded with thofe of Huahine, that fome of 0c*£7»i* them fought with the moil; defperate fury of true gamecocks ; but they were well difappointed with thofe which they purchafed at Tonga-Tabboo, and as they could nor make them fight, they were forced to eat them in revenge.
Early the next morning, the captain's friend Attahha or Tueiatjr 5. Attaglia (fee p. 447.) came on board in one of the firft canoes, and breakfaftcd with us. He was dreft in mats, one of which, on account of the coolnefs of the morning, he had drawn over his moulders. He refemblcd all other uncivilized people in the circumftance that his attention could not be fixed to one object for any fpace of time, and it was difficult to prevail on him to fit Rill, whilfl Mr. Hodges drew his portrait. An excellent print, executed by Mr. Sherwin, has been made from his drawing, which cx-prelTes the countenance of this chief, and the mild cha rafter of the whole nation, better than any defcription. It is infei ted in captain Cook's account of this voyage, and reprefents Attahha in the action of thankfgiving, laying a nail on his head, which he had received as a prefent. After breakfaft, the captains and my father prepared to return to the fhore with him; but juft as he was going out of the cabin, he happened to fee a Taheitian dog running about the deck; at this fight he could not conceal his joy, but clapped his hands on his breaft, and turning to the captain, repeated the word goomc *
* Ooree fignifies a dog at Taheitee ; and ghooree at New Zeeland,
N n n 2 near
near twenty times.   We were much furprifed to hear that he knew the name of an animal which did not exiR in his country, and made him a prefent of one of each fex, with which he went on fliorc in an extafy of joy.   That the name of dogs fhould be familiar to a people, who are not poffeflcd of them, feems to prove either that this knowledge has been propagated by tradition from their anceftors, who migrated hither from other iflands, and from the continent ; or that they have had dogs upon their ifland, of which the race, by fome accident, is become extinct j or laftly, that they flill have an intercourfe with other iflands where thefe animals exiR.
I remained on board all this day, to arrange the collection of plants and birds which we had made upon our firfl ex-curflon, and which was far from defpicable, confidering the fmall fize of the ifland.   The natives continued to croud about our veiTels in a number of canoes, whilft many were fwimming to and from the fhore, who were probably not rich enough to poffefs a canoe.   Thefe embarkations were of different conflruction.   The common fmall trading-canoes were fharp-bottomed, and ended in a fharp edge at each extremity, which was covered with a board or deck, becaufe their narrow form frequently expofed thefc parts to an entire fubmerfion, which would have filled them with water without this precaution.    They commonly had a flight out-rigger or balancer, made of a few poles, to prevent
vent their ovcrfctting.   The body of the canoe confuted of 0c| feveral planks, of a hard brown wood, fewed together with Rrings made of the fibrous coco-nut core, and fo artfully-joined that they appeared to be remarkably tight.   The Taheitians fimply bore holes in each plank, through which they pafs their Rrings ; but by this means their canoes are always leaky.    At Tongo-Tabboo they dub the infide of the plank in fuch a manner as to leave a projecting lift or rim clofe to the edge, and through this they pafs their threads.   Along the deck or narrow board at each extremity are placed feven or eight knobs, which feem to be an imitation of the little fins, (pinnula fpuria.) on the belly of bonitos, albecores, or mackarels \ and 1 cannot but conjecture that the natives have taken thefe fwift fillies for their models in the conftruetion of their boats.    Though thefe canoes are commonly fifteen or eighteen feet long, yet they are as neatly and fmoothly polifhed as our beft cabinet-woik, which muft appear the more furprifmg when we confider that the tools of the natives are only wretched bits of coral, and rafps made of the fkins of rays.   Their paddles were equally well polifTied, of the fame wood as the canoe, and had fhort rhomboidal broad blades, like thofe of Taheitee.    The other fort of canoes were conftrucTed for failing, and perfons fkilled in nautical matters acknowledge that they were admirably well adapted fo* this purpofe. We faw one of them in Maria Bay, confifting of two joined
together^
together, of which the planks were fewed in the fame manner as in the common canoe; but they were covered all over, and had a kind of elevated ftage or platform, like the Taheitian war-canoes *. Some of them may carry one hundred and fifty men ; and their fails, which are latine, are made of flrong mats, in which the rude figure of a tor-toife or a cock, &c. is fometimes reprefented f. As a farther detail would be tedious to mofl readers, and inftruclive only to manners, I omit it in this place, and refer thofe who wifh to be better acquainted with the fubjeel: to the accurate figures with which Mr. Llodges has ornamented captain Cook's account of this voyage. I fhall only ob-ferve, that it appears probable from the good conflrucliion of the failing-boats, that the inhabitants of thefe iflands are more experienced mariners than thofe of Taheitee and the Society Ifles.
Among the great numbers of people who furrounded our fhips, we obferved feveral whofe hair feemed to be burnt at the ends, and were flrewed with a white powder. Upon examination we found that this powder was nothing clfe than lime, made of fhells or coral, which had corroded or burnt the hair.   The tafle of powdering was at its height
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 221.
f The figure of a canoe in Schouten's voyage, gives a very good idea of one of the failing-boats of Torjga-Tabboo.    See Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II,
in
A  VOYAGE ROUND  THE WORLD.
in this ifland. We obferved a man who had employed a 0cJ.: blue powder, and many perfons of both fexes who wore an orange powder, made of turmerick. St. Jerom, who preached againft the vanities of the age, very ferioufly reprehends a fimilar cullom in the Roman ladies : " Ne imi-fet crines, et anticipetJìùi ignes Gehenna/" Thus, by an admirable fimilarity of follies, the modes of the former inhabitants of Europe are in full force among the modern antipodes ; and our infipid beaux, whofe only pride is the invention of a new fafliion, are forced to fharc that Render honour with the uncivilized natives of an ifle in the South Seas. !
My father did not return from his excursion till the evening, having proceeded a confiderable way towards the fouth end of the ifland. At noon a fmart fhower had obliged him to retire into a plantation and to take fhelter in a houfe. Fortunately for him the owner of this cottage was at home, and immediately invited him to fit down on the clean mats which covered the floor, whilft he went to provide fome refreshments. In a few moments he brought feveral coconuts, and having opened his oven under ground, took out fome bananas and fifhes,. wrapped in leaves, which were perfectly well ('one and delicious to the tafle. The manner of cooking provifions is ther fore exactly the fame as at Taheitee ; nor are the natives lefs inclinable to acts of hofpitality and benevolence, though thefe virtues were not fo
frequently
October    frequently exercifed towards us, becaufe we commonly found the country quite defertcd, the inhabitants being drawn together towards our trading-place.   The hofpitable man was rewarded with nails and beads, with which he performed the fagafetai, by laying them on his head, and accompanied my father back to the beach, carefully carrying a number of fpears and clubs for him, which he had purchafed on the road. Wednefd. e.      The harmlefs difpofition of thefe good people could not fecurc them againft thofe misfortunes, which are too often • attendant upon all voyages of difcovery. Our goods tempted them at leaft as much as they had tempted the Taheitians, and they were confequently equally difpofed to pilfer. The captains had not been long on fhore the next day, when one of the natives took an opportunity of ftealing a jacket' out of our boat.   In a few moments no lefs than feven fhot were fired, without the captain's orders, though in his prefence, at the thief, who firft dived in the water, and at laft ran into the croud, by which means feveral innocent people were wounded.   Notwithflanding this feverity, the good-nature of the people was fuch, that they did not for-fake the trading-place, or take umbrage at our proceeding, but heard with unconcern the balls whiffling about their ears.   A few hours afterwards, one of them was equally nimble on board our fhip, and luckily flipping into the mailer's cabin Hole from thence feveral mathematical books,
a fword,
a fword, a ruler, and a number of trifles of which he could 0c<J*7be never make the leaft ufe. He was feen making his efcape in a canoe, and a boat being difpatched after him, he threw all the ftolen effects overboard. Thefe were picked up by another of our boats, whilft the firft continued in the pur fu it of the thief. Our men fired a mufket into the ftern of his canoe, upon which he and fome others with him jumped into the fea. The thief was flill hunted with incredible eagernefs, but difplayed a moft wonderful agility, diving feveral times under the boat, and once unfhipping the rudder. At laft one of our people darteli the boat-hook at him, and catching him under the ribs, dragged him into the boat ; but he watched his opportunity, and notwithflanding his lofs of blood, leaped into the fea again, and efcaped to fome canoes, which came from the fhore to his afliftance. It is remarkable that even fuch a difpofition for cruelty, as had been difplayed in the purfuit of this poor wretch, did not deprive us of the confidence and affection of his country-men. The captains brought Attaglia and another chief on board with them to dinner, and the trade was carried on as quietly as if nothing had happened. The chief who came with Attagha appeared to be of a fuperior rank, becaufe the latter, who ufed to fit at table with us on former occafions, now retreated a few fleps, fat down on the fl >or, and could not be prevailed upon to eat in his fight. He was a blear-eyed, elderly man, and having a great in-Vol, l. .   O o o fluente
fluence on the people in the canoes, was called the admiral by our fea-men. His drefs did not in the leaft indicate his fuperior dignity, probably becaufe thefe iflanders are little acquainted with the refinements of luxury, though on the other hand they feem to behave with great fubmiflion to their men of rank, directly contrary to what we had obferved at the Society Ifles. The refpeel: which Attagha paid to the other chief, was however trifling in comparifon of that which we heard of on fhorc after dinner. Here we found a well-looking<middle-aged man, fitting on the ground at the trading-place, and all the croud forming a circle about him. Some of our fportfmen acquainted us, that they had met with him near Maria Ray, where the other natives palling by had proftrated themfelves on the ground before him, kiffed his feet, and put them on their necks. Upon enquiry, they had been repeatedly told, that he was the chief of the whole ifland, in the fame manner as Cookce (captain Cook) was chief of our fhips, and that they called him Ko-Haghee-too-Fallango *. Whether this was his name or his title I cannot determine, as we never heard it mentioned again by the natives ;&but they all agreed in telling us, that he was their f Areeghee or king. They added that his name was Latoo-Nipooroo, of which we concluded
* Ko is the article in thefe Iflands and at New Zeeland, which anfwers to the Taheitian O or E.
■\ The fame word in the Taheitee dialed is pronounced Aree,
that
that the former part (Latoo) was a title, it being fame which Schouten and Le Maire, the Dutch navigators in the year 1616, found at the Cocos, Traytors, and Home iflands, which are fituated in this neighbourhood, only a few degrees to the northward *« We were confirmed in this opinion by the great correfpondence of the vocabularies, which thefe intelligent feamcn have left us, with the language which was fpoken at Tonga-Tabboo, and flill more fo by the entire flmilarity in the behaviour and cufioms of thefe iflanders. The captains walked up to the Latoo, and made him a number of prefents, which he received with fo much gravity and fecming indifference, as bordered upon flupidity. Amongil other things they put a fhirt on him, with a great deal of trouble, becaufe his behaviour was mofl aukwardly paflive. He did not return any thanks for the prefents which he received, till an old woman fitting behind him, had repeatedly excited him to ^xprefs his gratitude. Upon this he held each feparate article over his head, and pronounced the word fagafetai, like the meanefl of his fubjecis. The priefl, who had led our captains to the places of worfhip, on the firfl day after our arrival, was feated in the fame circle, and drank vafl quantities of the intoxicating pepper-water f, which was
-* See Dalrymple's Hiflorical Colleaion of Voyages and Difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, 2 vols, quarto, 1771. London.   Vol. II. p. 27, 28, &c. f Called aw* at Taheitee, and kawa at Tonga-Tabboo, and Home Ifland.
O o o 2 ferved
ferved in little fquare cups made of banana-leaves curioufly folded. At his defire, we were very politely prefented with this dainty beverage, and in pure civility tailed of it. It had a naufeous infipid taftc, which was afterwards followed by a flrong pungency, and its colour was fome what milky. The holy man took fuch large and frequent draughts of this fluff every evening, as to become perfectly intoxicated. No wonder then that his memory failed him, when he was at prayer 'yfee p. 454.) that his whole habit of body was lean and fcabby, his face wrinkled, and his eyes red, and " purging thick amber V He had great authority among all the people, and a number of fervants attended to fupply him with replenifhed cups. The prefents which he received from us, he retained in his own cuflody, whereas
Attaglia and feveral other chiefs, gave up to their fuperiors whatever the captains had prefented to them.. The prieft had a daughter, who received many prefents from our people. She was extremely well featured, and fairer than moR of the women of this country, who feemed to pay her fome degree of deference. A fairer complexion, and fof ter features than thofe of the common people, are the natural effects of an eafy inactive life, unexpofed to the blaze of a tropical fun,, and pampered with a profufion of the beft productions of the country. Muft we not conclude therefore that the beginnings of luxury will be introduced even here under the cloak of
* Shakefpeare,
wit*
religion, and that another nation will be added to the many October, dupes of voluptuous prieft■ craft ? So fmall a fpark as the cunning of a fingle man may in time kindle a dreadful and irrefiftible fire ! The obedience and fubmiffion with which thefe people revere their chiefs, are evident proofs that their government, though perhaps not perfectly def-potic, is yet far from being democratical ; and this kind of political conftitution feems likely to facilitate the introduction of luxury. This feems to hold good likewife in regard to many iflands in the weflern part of the Pacific Ocean, fince the faithful defcriptions of Schouten, Le Maire, and Tafman, who vifited them, correfpond in every material particular with our own obfervations. The general difpofition for trading, and the kind and friendly reception which flrangers have almoR conftantly met with in every ifland belonging to this group, prevailed upon us to give thefe difcoveries of Schouten and Tafman the name of the Friendly Islands. Schouten's boats were indeed attacked at Cocos, Traitors, Hope, and Home Iflands ; but thefe atttacks were inconfiderable, though feverely punifhed on the part of the Dutch navigator, who, after the firfl diflur-bance at Home Ifland, lay there nine days in perfect: good underflancling with the natives. Tafman, who twenty-feven years afterwards faw feveral iflands near fix degrees to the fouthward of thofe which Schouten had vifited, was received with every demonstration of peace and friendfhip,,
though
though he was the firft European that difcovered them. Whether this behaviour was only a confequence of the intelligence which the natives of Tonga-Tabboo and Ana-mocka, (Anfterdam and Rotterdam Iflands,) might have received from thofe of Cocos, Elope, and Home Iflands, concerning the fuperior ftrcngth of the ftrangers and the ha-vock which they had made ; or whether it was the natural effect of their peaceable difpofition, I cannot venture to determine, though I am inclined to adopt the former opinion. Captain Wallis probably faw Cocos and Traitors Iflands in 1767, which he called Bofcawen's and KcppeVs Ifles ; but his people did the natives no hurt, except frightening them with the diicharge of a fingle mufket. M. de Bougainville law fome of the north-eaftermoft ifles belonging to this group, of which the inhabitants had the fame general character. He called his difcovery the Jrcbipel des Navigateurs, juftly enough, as many fhips have fallen in with it. Since Tafman's time, no other navigator has had any intcrcourfe with the ifle of Amfierdam, which he difcovered, previous to our arrival. During a fpace, therefore, of one hundred and thirty years, they have not materially changed their manners, drelTes, way of living, difpofition, fcc. 8cc. Our ignorance of their language prevented our obtaining pofi-tive proof that they ffill preferved, by tradition, the memory of former vifitors ; but they pofieffed fome nails, winch muft have been brought to the ifland in Tafman's time.
Wc
Wc pnrchafed one of thefe nails, which was very fmall and October. almoR confirmed with ruft, but had been carefully preferv-ed by being fixed on a wooden handle, probably to ferve the purp0fes of a googe or borer, and is now depofi ed in the Britifli Mufeum. We likewife bought fome fmall earthen pots, perfectly black with foot on the outfide, and fufpected them to be memorials of Tafman's voyage; but afterwards we rather believed that they were manufactured by the natives tnémfefves. The accounts of Schouten, Tafman, and M. de Bougainville agree with ours, in refpeet of the agility with which the natives committed petty thefts. Tafman and captain Wallis have likewife obferved their cuftom of cutting off the little finger ; and according to Schouten's and Le Maire's circumflantial narratives, the natives of Home Ifland were as fubmiflive to their king as thofe of Tonga-Tabboo. The experience of the fuperior power of the ftrangers, made them refpectful even to fcrvi-lity towards the Dutch ; their king proilrated himfelf before a Dutch purfer, and their chiefs placed their necks under his foot*. Thefe cxceffive marks of fubmiffion feem to border upon mcannefs and cowardice ; but we nevcrWiad reafon to fuppofe them tinctured with thefc vices. Their behaviour towards us was commonly accompanied with that freedom and boldnefs which the rectitude of intentions
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Hiftorical Collection of Voyages in the Pacific Ocean3
VOI, II.   p, 41.
infpircs ; ,
infpires ; and though really polite, was never unbecoming. Here, however, as in all other focieties of men, we found exceptions to the general character, and had reafon to lament the behaviour of vicious individuals. Dr. Sparrman and myfelf having left the beach where the Latoo attracted the attention of all our people, entered the wood in purfuit of farther difcoveries in our branch of fcience. The firft difcharge of my fowling-piece at a bird brought three natives towards us, with whom we entered into converfation, as far as our fuperficial knowledge of their tongue would permit. Soon after, Dr. Sparrman Repped afide into a thicket in fearch of a bayonet, which he had loR from the end of his mufket. One of the natives, finding the temptation of the moment irrcfiflible, grafped my fowling-piece, and flrugglcd to wrcit it from me. I called to my companion, and the two other natives ran away, unwilling to become accomplices in this attack. In the llruggle our feet were entangled in a bulli, and we both fell together; but the native, feeing he could not gain his point, and perhaps dreading the arrival of Pr. Sparrman, got up before me, and took that opportunity of running off. My friend joined me immediately ; and we concluded, that if there was fomething treacherous or vicious in the behaviour of this fellow, our fcparation was alfo imprudent, becaufe it had furnifhed him with an opportunity to exercife his talents.   We continued ftrolling about for fome time, without
any
any finiilcr accident, and returned to the trading-place on the beach, where wc found almoft all the people whom we had left.    Many of them were now feated in different little groups, which appeared to be fo many feparate families, and confided of perfons of various ages and fexes. They were all in converfation, of which no doubt the arrival of our fhips furnifhed the topics ; and many of their women amufed themfelves either with finging or playing at ball. There was a young girl in particular, whofe features were more regular than common, her eyes fparkling with vivacity, her whole frame admirably proportioned, and, what was moft remarkable here, her long jetty hair hanging down in graceful curls on her neck.   This girl, lively and cafy in all her actions, played with five gourds, of the fize of fmall apples, perfectly globular ; fhe threw them up into the air one after another continually, and never failed to catch them all with great dexterity, at leaft for a quarter of an hour.   The mufical ladies again performed the fame tune which we had already heard at Ea-oowhe, the different voices falling in with each other very harmonioufly, and fometimes joining all together as in chorus.    Though I never faw the natives of thefe iflands dance, yet we may add this amufement to the lift of thofe which they arc acquainted with, from their own accounts and gefturcs whenever they fold us their aprons made of flars of coco-nut core, and ornamented with fhell-work and red feathers, or fuch Vol. I. P p p as
,77** as were curiouily wrought of mats in refemblance of fret-work. From thefe geftures I have great reafon to fuppofe that their dances are of a dramatic kind, and public, like thofe which I have fpoken of in the Society Ifles, (fee pag. 398.) Schouten and Le Maire likewife ftrongly confirm this fuppofition by their account of the dances at Home Ifland *. It appeared, upon the whole, that the cuftoms and language of thefe iflanders have a great affinity with thofe of the Taheitians, and that it would not therefore be very fmgular to find a coincidence even in their am ufe-ments. The greateft differences between thefe two tribes, who muff have originated from the fame flock, feem to be-owing to the different nature of their iflands. The Society Ifles are well furnifhed with wood, and the tops of their mountains are flill covered with inexhauftible forefls. A't the Friendly Ifles this article is much fcarcer, the furface (at leaft of thofe which we have feen) being almoft entirely laid out in plantations. The natural confequence is, that the houfes are lofty and of immenfe extent in the firfl group cf iflands j but much fmaller and lefs convenient in the laft. In one the canoes are numerous, I may almoft fay innumerable, and many of a vafl fize j and, in the other, very few in number, and much fmaller. The mountains of the Society Ifles continually attract the vapours from the atmofphere, and many rivulets defcend:
* See Mr, Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol, II. p. 47.
from
from the broken rocks into the plain, where they wind their ferpentine courfe and glide fmoothly to the fea. The inhabitants of thofe iflands take advantage of this gift of bountiful nature, and not only drink of the falutary element, but likewife bathe fo frequently in it that no impurity can long adhere to their fkin. It is very different with a people who are abfolutely denied this bleffing, and who muft. either content themfelves with putrid Ragnant rain-water in a few dirty pools, or go entirely without it. They are obliged to have recourfe to expedients in order to piefcrve a certain degree of cleanlinefs, which may preclude various dhlcmpers. They therefore cut off their hair, and fhave or clip their beards, which doubtlefs makes them look more unlike the Taheitians than they would otherwife do. Still thefe precautions are not fuflicient, efpecially as they have no fluid for drinking in any quantity. The body is therefore very fubjccT to leprous complaints, which arc perhaps irritated by the ufe of the pepper-root water or ùwa. Hence alfo that burning or bliflering on the cheekbones which we obferved to be fo general among this tribe, that hardly an individual was free from it, and which can only be ufed as a remedy againft fome diforders. The foil of the Society Ifles in the plains and vallies is rich, and the rivulets which interfeci: it, fupply abundance of moifture. All forts of vegetables therefore thrive with great luxuriance upon it, and require little attendance or cultivation. This
p p p 2 profufion
profufion is become the fource of that great luxury among the chiefs which we do not meet with at Tonga-Tabboo. There the coral rock is covered only with a thin bed of mould, which fparingly affords nourifhment to all forts of trees ; and the mod ufeful of all, the bread-fruit tree, thrives imperfectly on the ifland, as it is deftitute of watery except when a genial mower happens to impregnate and fertilize the ground.    The labour of the natives is therefore greater than that of the Taheitians, and accounts for the regularity of the plantations, and the accurate divifion of property.   It is likewife to this fource we muft afcribe it,, that they have always fet a higher value on their provifions than on their tools, dreffes, ornaments, and weapons, though many of thefe muft have coft them infinite time and application.   They very juftly conceive the articles of food to be their principal riches, of which the lofs is abfolutely not to be remedied.   If we obferved their bodies more flender and their mufcles harder than thofe'of the Taheitians, this feems to be the confequence of a greater and more conftanc exertion of ftrcngth.   Thus, perhaps, they become induftri-ous by force of habit, and when agriculture does not occupy them, they are actuated to employ their vacant hours in the fabrick of that variety of tools and inftruments on which they beftow fo much time, patience, labour, and ingenuity. This induftrious turn has alfo led them, in the cultivation of all their arts, to fo much greater perfection than the
Taheitians,
Taheitians.    By degrees they have hit upon new inventions,   and  introduced  an  active fpirit  and enlivening chcarfulnefs even into their amufemcnts.    Their happi-nefs of temper  they preferve under a political confti-tution, which does not appear to be very favourable to liberty ; but we need not go fo far from home to wonder at fuch a phenomenon, when one of the moR enflaved people in all Europe, are characterifed as the merrieR and' moft facetious of mankind.    Still there may be more fin-cerity in the chearfulnefs of the natives of Tonga-Tabboo ; for, exclufive of great and almoft fervile fubmiflion, their king does not feem to exact: any thing from them, which, by depriving them of the means to fatisfy the moft indif-penfiblc wants of nature, could make them miferablc. Be this as it may, fo much feems  to be certain, that their fyftcms of politics and religion, from their fimilarity with the Taheitian, as far as we could judge, muft have had one common origin, perhaps in the mother country, from whence both thefe colonies iffued. Single diffonant cufloms, and opinions may have acceded to the primitive ideas, in proportion as various accidents, or human caprices have given rife to them.    The affinity of their languages is flill more decifive.   The greateft part of the neceffaries of life, common to both groups of iflands, the parts of the botly3 in fhort the moR obvious and univerfal ideas, were expreffed at the Society and Friendly Ifles nearly by the fame words.
We
We did not find that fonoroufnefs in the Tonga-Tabboc* dialect, which is prevalent in that of Taheitee, becaufe the inhabitants of the former have adopted the F, K, and S, fo that their language is more replete with confonants. This harftmefs is compensated however by the frequent ufe of the liquid letters, L, M, N ; and of thefofter vowels E and I, to which we muft add that kind of ringing tone, which
they generally retain even in common converfation__—
But it is time to return from this digrcflion.
We did not part from our friends till fun-fet, promifing to return to them once more the next morning. Our (hips were well provided with bananas, yams, and coco-nuts ; and, confidering the fmall fize of the ifland, as well as our fhort flay, iixty or eighty hogs, befides a vaft number of large fowls, were a furprifing acquisition. During our ftay wc had fearched the country in vain for water, and the mafter had been fent to the eaflward to furvey Maria Bay, and the low ifles which fhelter that harbour. The fituation of thefe iftands he found very exactly reprefented in the charts of the ever accurate Tafman, and on one of them where he landed, he faw an aftonifhing number of fpeckled water-makes, with flat tails, which are harmlefs, and dif-tinguilhcd in the fyftem of Linnaeus, by the name of colubri Jaticaudati. In our branch we had not been unfuccefsful, this little ifland having afforded us feveral new plants, among which was a new fpecies of jefuit's bark, or cinchona,
of
©f which the bitter bark may perhaps be equally efficacious 0cl^7B3ER with that of Peru,   We alfo collected feveral birds unknown before, and purchafed fome live fpecies, particularly of the parrot and pigeon tribe, of the natives, who feem to be very expert fowlers.   But it did not appear to us, that the pigeons, which many carried perched on crooked flicks, were marks of diftinction, though Schouten at Home Ifland where the fame cuftom prevails, is of that opinion *. In the laR boat which had brought our people on board in the evening, the Latoo or king had fent a great quantity of vegetables, together with a whole hog roafted, or dreffed under-ground, as a prefent to the captain.   In the morning therefore, we embarked early in the pinnace, and rowed to the more to make a prefent in return.   We found the Latoo fitting at a little diflance from the beach ; and captain Cook gave him a fhirt, a faw, a hatchet, a brafs kettle, and feveral articles of lefs moment, all which he received with fullen gravity ; this deportment he never varied, except once, when he was feen to fmile as he converfed with Attagha. Among the croud, we obferved a fingle man, who differed from all the reft, by having fuffered his hair to grow, and having twilled it into feveral round bunches, which hung wildly about his ears.   This man, and the young girl mentioned page 468. were the only perfons we met with, who had^
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Hitforical Collection, vol. II. p. 46.
nofc
October,   not conformed to the general cufiom of cutting off the hair.
After a fhort converfation with the natives, of whom we bought a variety of their tools, on account of their elegant carving, we returned on board to breakfaft, and immediately after weighed the anchors and fet fail. The provifions lying in confufed heaps on the decks, prevented our going into the open fea immediately. We therefore kept ftanding off and on, under fhelter of this ifland, and did not take our departure till towards evening, when we fhaped our cGurfc foutherly,
Friday i. The next morning, the weather being nearly calm, we
caught a fhark, eight feet long, consequently bigger than any we had feen before. In the afternoon we faw the little ifle which Tafman calls Pylftaerts Ifland. This name refers to the birds, which the Dutch navigators obferved there, and which in all probability were tropic birds. Pyl-flaert literally fignifying arrow-tail, alludes to the two long feathers in the tail of this bird, from whence its French name of palile-en-qume is likewife derived *. Its latitude is 2 2° 26 S. and its longitude 1700 59' W. A contrary S. W. wind which fprung up towards evening, obliged us to
Sunday 10.   cruize about till the 10th in the morning, when we came
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II, p. 75. where they are called wild *!uckst
in
in fight of this little iflet again.   It is of a moderate height, and has two hummocks, of which the fouthernmoft is the higheft.   We recovered the trade-wind by degrees, fo that we were out of fight of this iiland about two o'clock in the afternoon, and having bid adieu to the tropical iflands of this ocean, directed our courfe a fecond time towards New Zeeland.    We had now made fuch good ufe of the four months, after our departure from thence, as to have croRèd the South Sea in the middle latitudes, in the depth of winter, examined a fpace of more than forty degrees of longitude between the tropics, and refrellied our people at Taheitee, the Society Iflands, and the Friendly Iflands during one and thirty days.   The feafon for profecuting our difcoveries in high fouthern latitudes advanced, and the favage rocks of New Zeeland were only to give us Rielter, whilR we changed our fair-weather rigging, for fuch as might rcfift the florms and rigours of more inhofpitable climates.
Vol, I
CHAP.
CHAP. II.
Courfe from the Friendly IJIcs to New Zeeland.—^Separation from the Adventure.—Second Jiay in <%ueen Charlotte's Sound*
TIT E had no fooner left the torrid zone, than flocks of fea-fowls attended us on our courfe, and hovered lightly on the waves, which a favourable gale had raifed* i»efday i2. On the i 2th an albatrofs appeared, among the reft of the inhabitants of the temperate zone, which never dare to crofs the tropic, but roam from thence even to the polar circle 5 fo carefully has nature allotted to each animal its
proper place of abode. Saturday i6. The weather continued fair till the i 6th in the morning, when we had a fall of rain. Some of the people who examined the pump-well, found there a dog, which they brought upon deck. This creature, which had been pur-chafed at the ifland of Huahine, like many others of the fame fpecies, had obftinately refufed to take any nourifh-ment, and in all probability had lived ever fince in that hole without the leaft fupport of food, for a fpace of thirty-nine or forty days. The whole body was reduced to a mere Ikeleton, the legs were contracted, and he voided
blood
»773-October.
r
blood at the anus. The torments in which this poor ani- 0'C7T7* mal muR have lived, were a leflbn to our people, to purchafe only young puppies of this race for the future, as the grown dogs conftantly refufed to eat on board-The next night feveral blubbers palled by the fhip, which were vifible on account of their phofphoric light. Their luminous quality was fo great, chat the bofom of the fea, feemed to contain brighter Rars than the sether.
Sea-weed, fheer-waters, and albatroffes daily appeared, as we advanced towards New Zeeland. On the 1 9th, the fea was luminous, and on the 20th, the diving petrels arrived in flocks about us, and indicated the proximity of the land, which we faw the next morning at five o'clock. Tuefday We Rood in fhore all the day, till four in the afternoon, when we were abreaR of the Table Cape *, and Portland Ifland which adjoins to it by a ledge of rocks. The fhores were white and fteep towards the fea, and we could perceive the huts and flrong holds of the natives, like eagles airies on the top of the cliffs. A great number of natives ran along the rocks, in order to gaze at us, as we paffed by them, and many feated themfelves at the point which extends to the fouthward, but did not care to come off to us in their canoes. We failed between the funken rock and the land, and continued our courfe acrofs Hawke's Bay, and then along fhore, as it was growing dark.
* See the chart of New Zeeland, in vol. II. of Hawkefworth's Compilation.
Qjiq z In
In the morning we were to the fouth of Cape Kidnappers, and advanced to the Black Cape.   After breakfaft three canoes put off from this part of the fliore, where fome level land appeared at the foot of the mountains. They foon came on board as we were not very far from the land, and in one of them was a chief, who came on deck with* out hefltation.   He was a tall middle-aged man, clothed in two new and elegant dreffes, made of the New Zeeland flag or flax-plant.   His hair was dreffed in the high eft fafhion of the country, tied on the crown, oiled, and fluck with white feathers.   In each ear he wore a piece of albatrofs^ fkin covered with its white down, and his face was punc^ tured in fpirals and curve lines. Mr. Hodges* drew his por* trait, and a print of it is inferted in captain Cook's account of this voyage.   His companions fold us fome fifh, while he was entertained in the cabin.   The captain prefented him with a piece of red baize, fome garden-feeds, two young pigs of each fex, and likewife three pairs of fowls. Our young Borabora man, Mahine, who did not underftancl the language of the New Zeelanders at the firfl interview like Tupaya, hearing from us that thefc people were not poffeffed of coco-nuts and yams, produced fome of thefe nuts and roots with a view to offer them to the chief ; but upon ouraffuring him the climate was unfavourable to the growth of palm-trees, he only prefented the yams, whilft? we made an effort to convince the chief of the value of the
prefents
prefents which he had received, and that it was his intcreft to keep the hogs and fowls for breeding, and to plant the roots.   He feemed at laft to comprehend our meaning, and in return for fuch valuable prefents, parted with his mahee--pel? or battle-axe, which was perfectly new, its head well carved,   and ornamented with red parrot's feathers and white dog's hair.    After a fhort flay he returned on deck, where captain Cook prefented him with feveral large nails. He received thofe withfo much eagcrnefs that he feemed to value them above any other prefent ; and having obferved that the captain took them out of one of the holes in the capftan, where his clerk had put them, he turned the cap-Ran all round, and examined every hole to fee if there were not fome more concealed.   This circumftance plainly fhews how much the value of iron tools is advanced in the efli-mation of the New Zeelanders fince the Endeavour's voyage, when they would hardly receive them in many places. Before their departure they gave us a hceva or warlike dance, which confiftedof ftamping with the feet, brandifhing fhort clubs, fpcars, 8cc. making frightful contorfions of the face, lolling out the tongue, and bellowing wildly, but in tunc with each motion.    From their manner of treating the fowls which we had given them, we had no great reafon to expect fuccefs in our plan of flocking this country with domeftic animals, and we much feared whether the birds would reach the fhore alive.   We comforted ourfelves, how* -
everj,
octoimi cver> w*tu ^c thoughts of having at leaft attempted what we could not hope to fee accomplished.
The wind, which had fhifted during our interview with thefe favages, blew right off fhore, and was very unfavourable. It encreafed towards evening into a hard gale, during which wc hauled our wind, and ftood on different tacks for fear of being blown too far from the coaft. Heavy rains attended this gale, and penetrated every cabin in the fhip. Squalls were likewife frequent, and fplit fome old fails, which were not fit to refift the violence of the tempeft. We had not expected fuch a rough reception in the latitude of 40° fouth, and felt the air from the bleak mountains of New Zeeland very cold and uncomfortable, the thermome-'
Saturday 13. ter being at 5 o degrees in the morning. A few hours of moderate and almoft calm weather fucceeded thefc boifterous beginnings, after which the gale frefhened to the fame height as the night before. By day it abated again, and permitted us to run in fhore, but every night it encreafed and blew in furious gufls, which demanded all our attention. On the 24th, in the evening, we had reached the entrance of Cook's Strait, and faw Cape Paliifer before us ;
Monday 25. hut the next morning a gale fprung up, which was already fo violent, at nine o'clock, that we were forced to hand our fails and lay to, under a fingle one. Though we were fituated under the lee of a high and mountainous coaft, yet ■the waves rofe to a vaft height, ran prodigioufly long, and
were
were difperfed into vapour as they broke by the violence of ocìSi* the Rorm. The whole furface of the fea was by this means rendered hazy, and as the fun fhone out in a cloudlefs Iky, the white foam was perfectly dazzling. The fury of the wind flill encreafed fo as to tear to pieces the only fail which we had hitherto dared to (hew, and we rolled about at the mercy of the waves, frequently fhipping great quantities of water, which fell with prodigious force on the decks, and broke all that Rood in the way. The contU nual ftrain ilackened all the rigging and ropes in the fhip3 and loofened every thing, in fo much that it gradually gave way and prefented to our eyes a general fcene of confufion,. In one of the deepeft rolls the arm-cheft on the quarterdeck was torn out of its place and overfet, leaning againft the rails to leeward. A young gentleman, Mr. Hood, who happened to be juft then to leeward of it, providentially efcaped by bending down when he faw the cheft falling, fo as to remain unhurt in the angle which it formed with the rail. The confufion of the elements did not fcare every bird away from us : from time to time a black fhear-water hovered over the ruffled furface of the fea, and artfully withRood the force of the tempeft, by keeping under the lee of the high tops of the waves. The afpecT. of the ocean was at once magnificent and terrific: now on the fummit of a broad and heavy billow, we overlooked an un-meafurable expanfe of fea, furrowed into numberlefs deep
channels >
channels ; now on a Ridden the wave broke under us, and wc plunged into a deep and dreary valley, whilft a frefh mountain rofe to windward with a foaming creft, and thrcatncd to overwhelm us.   The night coming on was not without new horrors, efpecially for thofe who had not been bred up to a feafaring life.   In the captain's cabin the windows were taken out and replaced by the dead-lights, to guard againft the intrufion of the waves in wearing the fhip.   This operation diflurbed from its retreat a fcorpion, which had lain concealed in a chink, and was probably brought on board with fruit from the iflands.   Our friend Mahine affurcd us that it was harmlefs, but its appearance alone was horrid enough to fill the mind with apprehen-fion*.   In the other cabins the beds were perfectly foaked in water, whilft the tremendous roar of the waves, the creaking of the timbers, and the rolling motion deprived us of all hopes of rcpofe.   To complete this catalogue of horrors, we heard the voices of failors from time to time louder  than  the bluftcring winds or the raging ocean itfelf,   uttering   horrible vollics   of   curfes  and oaths. Without any  provocation  to ferve as   an  excufe, they execrated every limb in varied terms, piercing and complicated beyond the power of defcription.   Inured to danger from their infancy, they were infenfible to its threats, and not a fingle reflection bridled their blafphcmous tongues. I
* See Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. II.
know
know of nothing comparable to the dreadful energy of 0c^7B,;il> their curfes, than that difgrace to chriftianity the Anathema of Ernulphus *. In this comfortlefs fituation we continued till two o'clock the next morning, when the wind died away fuddenly, and was fucceeded in an hour's time by another from a favourable quarter. In the calm interval between thefe two winds, the fhip rolled more violently than ever, fo that the main-chains were repeatedly dipped under water, with part of the quarter-deck.
We failed all this day towards the land, having been Tuefd«y * driven off many leagues during the Rorm. Pintadas, black fhear-waters, and other petrels now furrounded us in great flocks, and we paffed an albatrofs fitting fafl afleep in the water, perhaps fatigued by the violence of the preceding gale.
The next day we were difappointed once more at the mouth of. the ftrait, and got a contrary wind, which blew a Rorm before night. The fame weather continued for two days following, almoft without intermiflion. On the 29th, early in the morning, feveral water-fpouts were feen FrkUy *t. by the officer at watch j and foon after we had a flight fhower and a favourable change of wind. In the evening wc loft fight of the Adventure our confort, whom we never rejoined again duiing this voyage. The foul wind which in the morning on the 30th certainly contributed to fepa-
* See Triftram Shandy.
Vol. I. R r r rate
October. rate ner ^rom us entirely> me being fo far aflern that this wind muR have had infinitely more effect upon her than upon our fhip.
It would be ufelefs and tedious to repeat the many changes from adverfe tempefls to favourable gales which fucceeded thofe already mentioned, and which made us defpair of ever coming to an anchor in New Zeeland again. We were buffetted about for nine nights together, during,
MondayBi!R" which flcep fcarce ever vifited our eyes. On the iR of November we got into Cook's Strait, but the weather proved fo inconftanr, that it became contrary to us as foon as we had approached Cape Tera-wittee upon the Northern Iiland.    Our fituation permitted us, however, the next day
Tuefdays. to come to an anchor in a new bay, which we difcovered immediately under this promontory to the wcflward. The environs of this bay were dreary, blackifh, barren mountains, of a great height, almofl wholly deftitute of woods and fhrubs, and running out into long fpits of fharp columnar rocks into the fea. The bay itfelf feemed to extend a confiderable way up between the mountains, and by its direction left us in doubt, whether the land on which Cape Tera-wittee is fituated, is not a fcparate ifland from Eahcino-mauwe. This miferable country was, however, inhabited, and we had not been half an hour at anchor, before feveral canoes full of natives came on board. They were very defpicably habited in old fhaggy cloaks,
which
which they called bogbee-bogghee. The fmoke to which they Nov?| are perpetually expofed in their wretched habitations, and a load of impurities which they had probably never warned off fince their birth, perfectly concealed their real colour, and made them look of a vile brownifh yellow. The feafon of winter, which was juft at an end, had in all likelihood forced them at times to make their meals on putrid fifhes, which, together with the ufe of rancid oil for the hair, had fo penetrated them with an infufferable flench, that we could fmell them at a diflance. They brought a few of their fifh-hooks and fome dried tails of craw-fifli to fell, for which they eagerly received our iron-ware and Taheitee cloth. Captain Cook likewife prefented them with two pair of fowls, with flrong injunctions to keep them for breeding ; but it is hardly to be expected that thefe wretched favages will attend to the domeftication of animals. In their unthinking fituation, the firfl moment they have nothing ready at hand to fatisfy the cravings of appetite, our fowls muft fall the victims to their voracity. If there are any hopes of fucceeding in the introduction of domcflic animals in this country, it muft be in the populous bays to the northward, where the inhabitants feem to be more civilized, and are already acculiomed to cultivate feveral roots for their fubfiftence.
About three o'clock in the afternoon the weather fell perfectly calm ; but in a little time a foutherly wind came
R r r 2 up
t
noveTber. uP l^ie ftrait> at fight of which curling the water at a diftance, we weighed anchor and got out of the bay. And very fortunate it was that we did fo, for the gale encreafed after a few minutes to fuch a furious pitch, that we were hurried along with aftonifhing fpeed, and after pafling clofe to the dangerous rocks of the Brothers, on which a moft dreadful furf was breaking, we came to an anchor at night, under (belter of Cape Koa-maroo in Queen Charlotte's Sound.
wednefd. 3. The next day, about noon, we came fafely into the Ship-Cove, from whence we failed on the 7 th of June, near five months before. We were in great hopes of being rejoined here by the Adventure, becaufe captain Cook intended to make fome ftay at this place, though the early feafon of the year did not promife fuch abundance of refrefhment s as we had enjoyed at our firft vifit.
We had hardly dropped our anchor, before feveral of the inhabitants, who had been out fifhing, came to fee us in their canoes, and difpofed of the fifh which they had caught. We recollected them as fome of our old friends, and called them by their names, at which they expreffed great fatisfa&ion, doubtlefs becaufe it ferved to perfuade them that we were particularly concerned for their welfare by retaining them in memory. The weather was fair and warm, considering the feafon, but our New Zeelanders were all covered with fhaggy cloaks, which are their winter
drcfles..
dreiTes. We queftioned them concerning the health of their abfent countrymen, and received various anfwers j but among the reft they acquainted us, that Goobaìa, one of their old chiefs, had chaced the two goats which we had left in the woods of Grafs-Cove, and had killed and eaten them. This news was moft unwelcome to us, as it de-ftroyed all our hopes of flocking the forefls of this country with quadrupeds.
In the afternoon we vifited all the plantations which we had left on the beach in Ship-Cove, on the Hippah-Rock,. and on motu-Aro.   We found almoft all the radifhes and turneps fhot into feed, the cabbages and carrots very fine, and abundance of onions and parfley in good order ; the peas and beans were almoft entirely loft, and feemed to have been deftroyed by rats.    The potatoes were likewife all ex-tirpated; but, from appearances, we gueffed this to have been the work of the natives.   The thriving fiate of our European pot-herbs, gave us a flrong and convincing proof of the mildnefs of the winter in this part of New Zeeland, where it feems it had never frozen hard enough to kill thefe plants, which perifli in our winters.   The indigenous plants of this country were not yet fo forward ; the deciduous trees and fhrubs, in particular, were but juft beginning to look green, and the vivid colour of their frefh leaves well contraftcd with the dark wintery hue of the-evergreens,   The flag, of which the natives prepare their
hemp.
November, hemp, was however in flower, together with fome other early fpecies. We collected all we could find, gathered a quantity of celery and fcurvy-grafs, and fhot fome waterfowl, with all which we returned on board in the evening. We immediately made drawings and defcriptions of all that was new to us,and particularly of the ftagyCphormium tcnax.) which, on account of the excellent flax that may be prepared from it, deferves to be more univerfally known. De-firous to promote every improvement which may turn out a real benefit to mankind, we did not hefkate a moment to permit an engraving to be made from our drawing, at the requeft of the Earl of Sandwich, which is intended to ornament captain Cook's account of this voyage.
rhurfc3.iy4. The natives returned the next morning in more canoes than the preceding day, and among them was Teiratu, the chief, who had made acquaintance with us on the fourth of June, and had pronounced a long harrangue that day. He was now in his old clothes, or what the polite world would call dcfiabille ; quite defiitute of the finery of chequered mats edged with dog-fkin, and his hair carelefsly tied in a bunch, inflead of being combed fmooth, and dcleciably greafed with ftinking oil. In fliort, from being the orator and leader of a troop of warriors, he feemed to be degraded to a firn pie fifhmonger. It was with fome difficulty that we recognized his features under this difguife, upon which he was taken into the cabin, and prefented
with
With fome nails. Our iron ware, and our provifion of Ta- kov! heitee cloth, were articles of fuch importance to Teiratu and his people, that they refolved to eftablifh themfelves near us, in order to be the firft to profit by our commerce, and perhaps to lofe no opportunity of laying their hands on any thing which belonged to us. Our lhip lay very near the beach where we intended to fill our empty cafks with frefh water. Here we had already fet up a tent for the people who were employed in this branch of cur preparations ; another for our wood-cutters, and the aftrono-mical obfervatory. We wTent on fhore at this place, both before and after-noon, and made our way through a labyrinth of climbers which croffed from one tree to another. Manine (or Hedecdee) likewife came on fhore with us, and roamed through its intricate forefls, furprifed at the number of different birds, their fweet melody, and their beautiful plumage. One of our gardens where the radifiies and turneps were in flower, was remarkably full of fmall birds, which fucked the nectareous juices of the bloffoms, and not. feldom plucked them from the ftalk. We fhot feveral of them, and Mahine, who had never made ufe of fire-arms in his life before, killed his bird at the firft difchargc. The fenfei of all nations, not more polifhed than his countrymen, are infinitely more acute than ours, which a thoufand accidents tend to impair. We never were more clearly convinced of this, than at Taheitee ; it was very ufual for the natives there, to point out fmall birds to us in the thickeft trees,
oc
November,  or ducks and other water-fowl between bufhes of reeds, where not one of us could ever perceive them.
The weather, which was warm and pleafant, facilitated our zoological refearches, fo that wTe brought home a number of birds in the evening.
Friday 5. The firft intelligence which we received from the fliore
the next day, was a complaint againft the natives, who had ftolen during the night, a watch-coat from the wa-terers tent, and a bag filled with linen. The captain immediately went into the cove, where the favages had taken up their quarters, which was only feparated by a fingle hill from our watering-place, and to which he had given the name of Indian Cove. Here he addrefled himfelf to their chief Teiratu, who fent for the ftolen goods, and returned them without hefitation, pretending that the theft was committed without his knowledge. Our people were politic enough to believe him on his word, becaufe the addrefs of his countrymen had hitherto fupplied us with abundance of fifh, for a very moderate compcnfation of Taheitee cloth, whilft we caught them but very fparingly. In this place they found one of the fows, which captain Furneaux had left in Canibal Cove ; and Teiratu being queftioned concerning its two companions, pointed to different quarters of the bay, whither he faid they had been carried. Thus by feparating the animals, and dividing them as a fpoil, thefe barbarians effectually deftroy the pofTibility of propagating
the
the fpecies.   Too much occupied with the wants of the pre- NovVmLb fent moment, they overlook the only means of fecuring a certain livelihood to themfelves, and reject every attempt to civilize them.
They were joined by a Rrong party on the 6 th in the Saturday <s. afternoon, who came from various parts of the bay, with a great quantity of fifh, and abundance of their clothes, arms, &c. which they exchanged for Taheitee cloth. In the evening they retired to a beach oppofite the fhip, where they hauled their canoes afhore, made fome temporary huts, lighted fires, and broiled fome filli for their fuppers. Early the next morning looking about us, we found they were Sunday 7. all gone off, not excepting thofe who had lived at the Indian Cove.   We were at a lofs to guefs the reafon of their hidden departure, till wc perceived that they had taken away fix fmall cafks from our watering place, probably for the fake of the iron-hoops.   It is certain, that by fupplying us with fifh for another day, they would have received three or four times the value of this iron, manufactured for their ufe j but we have already obferved that they are not much troubled with reflections, and probably value a bird in hand more than two in a bufh.   We were the greateft fuffcrers on this occafion, being now reduced to catch fifh for ourfelves, though we could not fpare a fumcient number of hands, and were not acquainted with the haunts of the fifties as well as the natives.   Our people were occupied
Vol. I. S s s in
in cleaning, caulking, and breaming the fhip, fctting up and repairing the rigging, and, in fliort, in fitting her for the next fouthern cruize. A great party were on fhore to fill our empty cafks with frefh-water, to make provifion of fuel, and to rcvife the fhip's bifcuit, which was in a very decayed condition. It had unfortunately been packed into new, or what are called green cafks, the Raves of which being damp, had communicated the moifture to the bread, a confiderable part of which was perfectly rotten, and all the reft, more or lefs covered with mould. To prevent the fatal effects of this corruption, all the bread was carried afhore, the bad carefully felefled from that which was ftill eatable, and this laft put into an oven and baked over again, till it was thoroughly dried.
The weather during this time was as boiflerous and in-conftant, as that which had fo long kept us out of this harbour. Scarce a day paffed without heavy fqualls of wind, which hurried down with redoubled velocity from the mountains, and flrong fhowers of rain, which retarded all our occupations. The air was commonly cold and raw, vegetation made flow advances, and the birds were only found in vallies fheltered from the chilling fouthern blaft. This kind of weather in all likelihood prevails throughout the winter, and likewife far into the midft of fummer, without a much greater degree of cold in the former, or of warmth in the latter feafon,   Iflands far remote from any
continent,
continent, or at lead not fituated near a cold one, feem in Nov^ general to have an uniform temperature of air, owing perhaps to the nature of the ocean which every where fur-rounds them.   It appears from the meteorological journals kept at Port Egmont on the Falkland Iflands *, that the extremes of the greateR cold, and the greatefl heat obferved there throughout the year, do not exceed thirty degrees on Fahrenheit's fcale.   The latitude of that port is 51° 25' fouth ; and that of Ship Cove in Queen Charlotte's Sound, only 410 S'   This confiderable difference of fire, will naturally make the climate of New Zeeland infinitely milder than that of Falkland's Iflands, but cannot affect the general hypothefis concerning the temperature of all iflands ; and the immenfe height of the mountains in New-Zeeland, fome of which are covered with fnow throughout the year, doubtlefs contributes to refrigerate the air, fo as to affimilate it to that of the Falkland's Ifles, which are not fo high.
The inclemency of the feafon did not prevent the natives from rambling about in this fpacious found. Having been entirely forfaken by them for three days together, a party arrived near us on the 9th, in three canoes, one of which was elegantly carved in fretwork on the flern.   They fold
* See the Journal of the Winds and Weather, and Degrees of Heat and Cold by the thermometer at Falkland's Ifland, from February 1766, to January 1767. jnferted in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages in the Southern Atlantic Ocean,
S S S 2 US
fSti'wu  us f°me curiofities, and then went on fhore abreaft of the fhip \ but we did not remember having ever feen them before.   The next day two wretched canoes joined thefe, in which was our friend Towahanga with his family *. He came immediately on board, with his little boy Khoàa and his daughter Ko-parree, and difpofed of a great number of green nephritic flones wrought into chiffcls and blades of hatchets.   He was introduced into the cabin, where captain Cook gave him many little prefents, and dreffed his little boy in one of his own white fhirts.    The boy was fo over-jpyed at his finery, that we found it abfolutely impoffible to keep him in the cabin by fair words. He was bent upon parading it before his countrymen on the deck, and perfift-ed to importune us till we let him out.    His little vanity,
however, had the moft difaftrous confequences. An old he-goat, which went about our decks, to the great terror of all the New Zeelanders, took offence at the ludicrous figure of poor Khoàa, who was loft in the ample turns and folds of his fhirt, and awkwardly trotted along with felf-complacen-cy. The fturdy mountaineer ftepped in his way, and raif-ing himfelf on his hind-legs, butted with his head fulf againft him, and laid him fprawling on the deck in an in-Rant. The unfuccefsful efforts which the boy made to rife, together with his loud lamentations, fo provoked the goat, that he prepared to repeat the compliment, and would.
* See page 209.
probably
probably have filenced this knight of the rueful counte- R^ nance, if fome of our people had not interpofed. His fhirt was now fullied, and his face and hands covered with dirt; and in this pitiful plight he returned into the cabin. His air was quite dejected, his eyes full of tears, and he feemed to be perfectly cured of his vanity.    He told hi3 misfortune, crying, to his father j but far from exciting pity, he provoked the favage's indignation, and received feveral blows as a punifhment of his folly, before we could make his peace.   We cleaned his fhirt and warned him all over, which had perhaps never happened to him before during his life, and thus fucceeded to reflore him to his former tranquillity.   However, his father, dreading a future misfortune, carefully rolled up the fhirt, and taking off his own drefs, made a bundle of it, in which he placed all the prefents which he and his fon had received.
The natives continued to fell their artificial curiofities Friday i2. and fome fifh to our people this day and the following, both which proved very rainy. On the i 2th, in the morning, the weather being clear again, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf, went to the Indian Cove, which we found uninhabited. A path, made by the natives, led through the foreft a confiderable way up the Reep mountain, which feparates this cove from Shag Cove *. The only motive which could induce the New Zeelanders to make this path, appeared to
* See the chart of Cook's Strait in Hawkeftvorth's Compilation, vol, IE
be
be the abundance of ferns towards the fummit of the mountain, the roots of that plant being an article of their diet. The ftccpeft part of the path was cut in Reps paved with fhingle or fiate, but beyond that the climbers impeded our progrefs confiderably. About half way up, the foreft ended, and the reft was covered with various Rirubs and ferns, though it appeared to be naked and barren from the fhip. At the fummit we met with many plants which grow in the vai-lies and by the fea-fide at Dufky Bay, owing to the difference of climate, which is fo much more rigorous in that fouthern extremity of New Zeeland. The whole to the very top confifts of the fame talcous clay which is univerfal all over the ifland, and of a talcous ftone, which when expofed to the fun and air, crumbles in pieces and diffolves into lamella?. Its colour is whitifh, greyifh, and fometimes tinged with a dirty yellowifh-red, perhaps owing to irony particles. The fouth fide of the mountain is clad in forefls almoft to the fummit. The view from hence was very cx-tenfive and pleafing ; we looked into Eaft Bay as into a fifh-pond, and faw Cape Terà-wittee beyond the ftrait. The mountains in the fouth arofe to a vaft height, and were capt with fnow j and the whole profpect on that fide was wild and chaotic. We made a fire as a memorial of our expedition, and then came down the fame path by which we had afcended. The next morning we made an excurfion to Long Ifland, where we found a number of
plants
plants and fome birds which were new to us. In the woods on the eaft fide we heard fome petrels in holes under ground croaking like frogs and cackling like hens j and we fuppofed them to be of the little diving fpecies, which I have noticed before, It feems to be a general cu flotti of the petrel tribe to make their neft in fubterraneous holes, as wc found the blue or filvery fort lodged in the fame manner at Dufky Bay.
Ever fince the i 2th the weather was mild and very fair; the natives refided abreaft of the fhip, and fupplicd us with plenty of filli, whilft our failors carried on their former amours with the women, amongft whom there was but one who had tolerable features, and fomething foft and feminine in her looks. She was regularly given in marriage by her parents to one of our fhipmates, who was particularly beloved by this nation, for devoting much of his time to them, and treating them with thofe marks of affection which, even among a favage race, endear mankind to each other. To-ghceree, for fo the girl was called, proved as faithful to her hufband as if he had been a New Zeelandcr, and conftantly rejected the addrelTes of other feamen, profeffing herfelf a married woman, (tim-tàne.) Whatever attachment the Englishman had to his New Zeeland wife, he never attempted to take her on board, forefeeing that it would be highly inconvenient to lodge the numerous retinue which crawled in her garments and weighed down the hair of her head.
He
NovEMMi   ^C therefore vifited heron fhore, and only by day, treating her with plenty of the rotten part of our bifcuit, which we rejected, but which fhe and all her countrymen eagerly devoured.   Mahine, the native of Borabora, whom we had on board, had been fo much accuftomcd in his own country to obey every call of nature, that he did not hefitate to gratify his appetites in New Zeeland, though he was too clear-fighted at the fame time not to perceive the vafl falling off from his own country-women.   The force of inflinct triumphed over his delicacy,—and can we wonder at it, when our civilized Europeans fet him the example? His conduct towards the New Zeelandcrs in general deferves to be commended.    There needed not much penetration to difcovcr that their prefent exigence was very wretched in compari-fon of that of the tropical iflandcrs ; but he alfo frequently exprcfTcd his pity, whilft he enumerated to us a variety of articles of which they were ignorant.    He diftributcd the roots of yams to thofe who vifited the fhip at the Black Cape, and always accompanied the captain whenever he went to plant or fow a piece of ground in this harbour. He was not, like Tupaya, fo much a mafter of their language as to converfe freely with them, but he foon underftood them much better than any one of us, from the great analogy of their language to his own.    Our vifit to the tropical iflands had, however, contributed to make the New Zee-land dialect more intelligible to us than before, and we
plainly
plainly perceived that it had a great affinity to that of the ^oZlU*** Friendly Ifles, which we had juR left.   From fuch little data we can only guefs at the probable route by which a country, fo far to the fouth as New Zeeland, has been peopled.
The weather continuing fair on the 14th at night, the Sunday u\ captain and my father went on fhore to the obfervatory with telefcopes, to obferve the emerfion of one of Jupiter's fatellites. The refult of a great number of obfervations, made at different times by our accurate and indefatigable aftronomer, Mr. William Wales, F. R. S. has afecrtained the longitude of Queen Charlotte's Sound to be 174° 2$ Eaft from Greenwich.
The next morning we accompanied the captain to Eaft umà$y 35; Bay, where we vifited feveral fmall parties of the natives, in three different places. They received us very amicably, prefented us with fifh, which was always the moft valuable article they had to give, and fold us feveral large hoop-nets * for our iron and Taheitee cloth. Towards the bottom of the bay we mounted on the fame hill which captain Cook had afcended in his firfl voyage f, intending to look out on the fea if we could perceive the Adventure. But when we reached the fummit, we found fo thick a haze on the water, that wc could fee no farther than two or three
* Of the kind mentioned in Hawkefworth's Compilation, vol. II. p. 392. ■j- See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 397.
Vol, I. Ttt leagues.
Hòv^MBir. l'ea2ues* Tne monument which captain Cook had erected here formerly, confuting of a pile of loofe Rones, under which fome coins, bullets, &x. had been buried, was entirely demolifhcd at prefent ; the natives having probably fufpected that a treafure of European goods was depofitcd there.    At the foot of this hill fome friendly people, like
thofe of which captain Cook took notice at this place in his firft voyage, came to us, and difpofed of many of their arms, utenftls, and drelTes. In the afternoon we tried the hoop-nets which we had bought of the natives, and had tolerable fuccefs. Thefe nets are made of the fplit leaves of the flag, fo often mentioned, after they have been dried and beaten. No plant promifes to become fo ufeful to Europe by tranfplantation as this Rag.   The hemp or flax which
the New Zeelanders make of it, with their coarfe materials* is exceflively Rrong, foft, gloffy, and white ; and that which has been prepared again in England, has almoft equalled Clk in luftre. It grows on all kinds of foil, and, being perennial, may be cut down to the root every year, and requires fcarce any attendance or care in the cultivation. Whined i7< On the 17th, we fpent the forenoon in cutting down a number of very tall trees, of which we wifhed to gather, the flowers, but all our efforts were in vain. We had no fooner cut a tree, than it hung in a thoufand bindweeds, and climbers from top to bottom, from which it was not in our power to difengage it,   The three following days
we
wc had much rain, which confined us on board ; nor did no=3Lm* we receive any vifits from the natives during that time.
On the 21ft in the morning, none but women came Sunday »t. from the fhore in two canoes, and feemed to be under great apprehenfions for their men, fignifying to us that they were gone to fight with another party. From the direction in which they pointed, we concluded that their enemies dwelt fome where in Admiralty Bay.
On the 22d, the weather being mild and fair, the cap- M©ndty**2 tain, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf, went into Weft Bay, and in its dcepefl rccefs carried afhore two fows and a boar, with three cocks and two hens, which wc fet at liberty a good way up in the woods. We flattered ourfelves that having chofen a marfhy fpot, which is not likely to be frequented by the inhabitants, the animals would be left to multiply their fpecies without any mo-legation. A few natives only in a fingle canoe had feen us in the entrance of the bay, and probably would not fuf-pect that we were come on fo particular an errand. If therefore the fouthern ifle of New Zeeland fhould in courfe of time be Rocked with hogs and fowls, we have great reafon to hope that the care with which we concealed them in the woods, has been the only means of prefcrving the race.
At our return feven or eight canoes arrived from the northward, fome of which, without paying any attention
T t t 2 to
to us, went directly into Indian Cove, whilft the reft came on board with a great variety of dreffes and arms, which they fold to our people. They were more dreffed than we had commonly feen any, during this fecond ftay at Queen Charlotte's Sound, their hair was tied up, and their cheeks painted red. All thefe circumftances confpired to confirm the account which the women had given us the day before, that their hufbands were gone to fight, as it is ufual for them to put on their beft apparel on thofe occafions. I am much afraid that their unhappy differences with other tribes, were revived on our account. Our people not fatis-fied with purchafing all the hatchets of flone, patoo-patoos, battle-axes, clothes, green jaddes9 fifh-hooks, &c. of which the natives of our acquaintance were poffeffed, continually
enquired for more, and fhewed them fuch large and valuable pieces of Taheitee cloth, as would not fail to excite their defires. It is not improbable that as foon as this appetite prevailed among the New Zeelanders, they would reflect that the fhorteft way to gratify it, would be to rob their neighbours of fuch goods, as the Europeans coveted. The great flore of arms, ornaments, and clothes which they produced at this time, feemed to prove that fuch a daring and villainous defign had really been put in execution ; nor was it to be fuppofed that this could have been accomplifhed without bloodfhed.
In the morning, which was very foggy, the natives at nmmihi
Tuefday 23»
our watering-place were feen to eat a root boiled or baked by means of hot Rones ; and Mr. Whitchoufe the firft mate brought fome of it on board, which tafted rather better than a turnep. My father returned on fliorc with him ; for a few trifles obtained fome large pieces of this root, and with fome difficulty prevailed on two of the natives to accompany Mr. Whitehoufe and him into the woods, in order to point out to them the fpecies of plant to which the root belonged. They walked up a confiderable way without any arms whatsoever, trufting to the honefty of their guides. Thefe men pointed out a fpecics of fern-tree, which they called mamaghoo, as having the eatable root -, and at the fame time fhewed the difference between this, and another kind of fern-tree, which they named ponga. The firft is full of a tender pulp or pith, which when cut ex-fudes a reddifh juice of a gelatinous nature, nearly related to fago. This is fo much the lefs lingular, as the real fago-trec is a fpecies of fern. The good nutritive root of the mamaghoo muft not, however, be confounded with that wretched article of New Zeeland diet, the common fern-root, or acrojtlchum furcatum Linn. The latter confifts of nothing but infipid flicks, which after being broiled over the fire for fome time, are beaten or bruifed on a flone with a piece of wood much refembling the Taheitian cloth-beater, but round inftead of fquare, and without
any/-
■November, any grooves. The bruifed mafs is chewed, what little juice there may be in it fucked out, and the reft thrown afide. The mamaghoo on the contrary is tolerably good eating, and the only fault feems to be, that it is not plentiful enough for a conftant fupply. At their return they were witneflcs of an inftance of the ferocity of manners of this favage nation. A boy about fix or feven years old demanded a piece of broiled pinguin, which his mother held in her hands. As me did not immediately comply with his demand, he took up a large ftone and threw it at her. The woman incenfed at this action ran to punifh him, but Rie had fcarcely given him a fingle blow, when her huf-band came forward, beat her unmercifully, and dallied her againft the ground, for attempting to correct: her unnatural child. Our people who were employed in filling water, told my father they had frequently feen firn il ar inftances of cruelty among them, and particularly, that the boys had actually ftruck their unhappy mother, whilft the father looked on left fhe fhould attempt to retaliate. Among all favage nations the weaker fcx is ill-treated, and the law of the ftrongeft is put in force. Their women arc mere drudges, who prepare raiment and provide dwellings, who cook and frequently collect their food, and are requited by blows and all kinds of feverity. At New Zeeland it feems they carry this tyranny to excefs, and the males ;irc taught from their earlieft age, to hold their mothers in
contempt,
contempt, contrary to all our principles of morality.   I leave movimÌi»* this barbarity without a comment, in order to relate the remaining occurrences of this day, which was pregnant in difcoveries relative to the New Zeelandcrs.   The captain, with Mr. Wales, and my father, went to Motu-Aro in the afternoon, where they looked after the plantations, collected greens for the (hips, &c,   In the mean while fome of the lieutenants went to the Indian Cove, with a view to trade with the natives.   The firft objects which ft ruck them were the entrails of a human corfe lying on a heap a few ftcps from the water.   They were hardly recovered from their firft furprize, when the natives fhewed them feveral limbs of the body, and expreffed by words and geftures that they had eaten the reft.   The head without the lower jaw-bone, was one of the parts which remained, and from which it plainly appeared, that the deccafed was a youth about fifteen or fixtecn years old.   The fkull was fractured near one of the temples, as it feemed by the ftroke of a pattoo-pattoo. This gave our officers an opportunity of enquiring how they came in poffeffion of the body.    The natives anfwered, that they had fought with their enemies, and had killed feveral of them, without being able to bring away any of the dead befides this youth.    At the fame time they acknowledged that they had loft fome of their friends, and pointed to feveral women who were feated apart, weeping and cutting their foreheads with fharp flones, in commemoration of the dead. +
Our
nqvJmbeej Our former conjectures were now amply verified, our ap.
prchenfions that we Were the innocent caufes of this difaf-ter encreafed, and the exigence of anthropophagi confirmed by another ftrong proof. Mr. Pickerfgill propofed to purchafe the head, in order to preferve it till his return to England, where it might ferve as a memorial of this < voyage. He offered a nail, and immediately obtained the head for this price f, after which he returned on board with his company, and placed it on the taffarel *. We were all occupied in examining ir, when fome New Zeelanders came on board from the watering-place. At fight of the head they expreffed an ardent defire of poflefling it, fignifying by the moft intelligible geflurcs that it was delicious to the tafle.    Mr. Pickerfgill refufed to part with
it, but agreed to cut off a fmall piece from the cheek, with which they feemed to be well fatisfied. He cut off the part he had promifed, and offered it to them, but they would not eat it raw, and made figns to have it dreffed. Therefore, in prefence of all the fhip's company, it was broiled over the fire ; after which they devoured it before our eyes
9
with the greatefl: avidity. The captain arriving the moment after with his company, the New Zeelanders repeated the experiment once more in his prefence.   It operated very
+ The head is now depofited in the collection of Mr. John Hunter, F. R. S. ^      '* The upper part of the flcrn.
flrangcly
ftrangely and differently on the beholders. Some there were no*, emuer, who, in fpite of the abhorrence which our education infpires againft the eating of human flefh, did not feem greatly dif-inclincd to feaft with them, and valued themfelves on the brilliancy of their wit, while they compared their battle to a hunting- match. On the contrary, others were fo unrea-fonably incenfed againft the perpetrators of this action, that they declared they could be well plcafed to (boot them all ; they were ready to become the moft deteftable butchers, in order to punifh the imaginary crime of a people whom they had no right to condemn. A few others fuffered the fame effects as from a dofe of ipecacuanha. The reft lamented this action as a brutal depravation of human nature, agreeably to the principles which they had imbibed. But the fenfibility of Mahinc, the young native of the Society Iflands, Rione out with fuperior luftre among us. Born and bred in a country where the inhabitants have already emerged from the darknefs of barbarifm, and are united by the bonds of focicty, this fcene filled his mind with horror. He turned his eyes from the unnatural object, and retired into the cabin, to give vent to the emotions of his heart. There wc found him bathed in tears ; his looks were a mixture of compaftion and grief, and as foon as he faw us, he expreffed his concern for the unhappy parents of the victim. This turn which his reflections had taken, gave us infinite pleafure ; it fpoke a humane heart, filled with Vol. I. U u u the
the warm eft fentiments of focial affection, and habituated
MEMBER.
to fympathize with its fellow-creatures.    He was fo deeply affected, that it was feveral hours before he could compofe himfelf, and ever after, when he fpoke on this fubject, it was not without emotion.    Philofophers, who have only contemplated mankind in their clofets, have ftrenuoufly maintained, that all the affenions of authors, ancient and modern, of the exigence of men-eaters are not to be credited ; and there have not been wanting perfons amongfl: ourfelves who were fceptical enough to rcfufe belief to the concurrent teflimonies in the hiftory of almoR all nations in this particular.   But captain Cook had already, in his former voyage, received ftrong proof that the practice of eating human flefh exifted in New Zeeland; and as now wc have with our own eyes feen the inhabitants devouring human fleffi, all controverfy on that point muft be at an end. The opinions of authors on the origin of this cuflorn are infinitely various, and have lately been collected by the very learned canon Pauw, at Xanten, in his Recherches Phik-fophtqitesJur les Amcricains, vol. I. p. 207.    Lie feems to think that men were firft tempted to devour each other from real want of food and cruel neceffuy *.   Many weighty objections, however, may be made againft this hypothefis \ amongfl which the following is one of the greatefl. There
* His fentiments are copied by Dr. Hawkefworth, who has difingenuoufly concealed their author.    See his Compilation, vol. III. p. 447.
are
A   VOYAGE ROUND
T H E
WOR ED.
S \ S
are very few countries in the world fo miferably barren as not to afford their inhabitants fufficient nourifhmcnt, and thofe, in particular, where anthropophagi Rill exiR, do not come under that defcription.   The northern ifle of New Zeeland, on a coaft of near four hundred leagues, contains fcarcely one hundred thoufand inhabitants, according to the moft probable guefs which can be made ; a number incon-fiderable for that vafl fpacc of country, even allowing the fettlements to be confined only to the fea-fhorc.   The great abundance of fifh, and the beginnings of agriculture in the Say of Plenty and other parts of the Northern Ifle, are more than fufficient to maintain this number, becaufe they have always had enough to fupply ftrangers with what was deemed fuperfluous.   It is true, before the dawn of the arts among them, before the invention of nets, and before the cultivation of potatoes, the means of fubfiftence may have been more difficult -9 but then the number of inhabitants muft likewife have been infinitely fmaller. Single inftances are not conclufive in this cafe, though they prove how far the wants of the body may flimulate mankind to extraordinary actions.   In 1772, during a famine which happened throughout all Germany, a herdfman was taken on the manor of Baron Boineburg, in Heftia, who had been urged by hunger to kill and devour a boy, and afterwards to make a practice of it for feveral months.   From his con-fefiion it appeared, that he looked upon the flefh of young
U u u.2 children
November, children as a very delicious food ; and the geflures of the New Zeelanders indicated exactly the fame thing. An old woman in the province of MatogrofTo, in Brafil, declared to the Portuguefe governor that Rie had eaten human flefh feveral times, liked it very much, and fhould be very glad to feaft upon it again, efpecially if it was part of a little boy. But it would be abfurd to fuppofe from fuch circuta-Rances, that killing men for the fake of leading upon them, has ever been the fpirit of a whole nation ; becaufe it is utterly incompatible with the exiflence of fociety. Slight caufes have ever produced the mod remarkable events among mankind, and the moft trifling quarrels have fired their minds with incredible inveteracy againft each other. Revenge has always been a flrong paffion among barbarians, who are lefs fubject to the fway of reafon than civilized peo* pie, and has ftimulatcd them to a degree of madnefs which is capable of all kinds of exceffes. The people who firft confumed the body of their enemies, feem to have been bent upon exterminating their very inanimate remains, from an excefs of paffion ; but, by degrees, finding the meat wholefome and palatable, it is not to be wondered thar they fhould make a practice of eating their enemies as often as they killed any, fince the action of eating human fiefh, whatever our education may teach us to the contrary, is
* M. de Pinto, now ambafTador from Portugal at the Britifli court j a nobleman equally eminent for his extenfiye knowledge and his excellent heart.
certainly
certainly neither unnatural nor criminal in itfelf. It can ^otlJiW. only become dangerous as far as it Reels the mind againft that companionate fellow-feeling which is the great bafis of civil fociety ; and for this reafon we find it naturally ba-nillied from every people as foon as civilization has made any progrefs among them. But though wc are too much polilhed to be canibals, wc do not find it unnaturally and favagely cruel to take the field, and to cut one another's throats by thoufands, without a fingle motive, befides the ambition of a prince, or the caprice of his miftrefs ! Is it not from prejudice that wc arc difgufted with the idea of eating a dead man, when we feel no remorfc in depriving him of life? If the practice of eating human flefh makes men unfeeling and brutal, we have inftanccs that civilized people, who would perhaps, like fome of our failors, have turned fick at the thought of eating human flefh, have committed barbarities without example amongfl canibals. A New Zcelandcr, who kills and cats his enemy, is a very different being from an European, who, for his amufe-ment, tears an infant from the mother's brcaft, in cool blood, and throws it on the earth to feed his hounds *
Ncque hie lupis mos nec fuit leonibus. Nunquam nifi in difpar feris. ITor.
The New Zeelanders never eat their adverfaries, unlefs they are killed in battle ; they never kill their relations for
* Bifliop Las Cafas- fays, he has feen this atrocious crime committed in America by Spanifh foldiers.
The
the purpofe of eating them-, they do not even eat them if they die of a natural death, and they take no prifoners with a view to fatten them for their repaft* ; though thefe circumftances have been related, with more or lefs truth of the American Indians.    It is therefore not improbable, that in procefs of time they will entirely lay afide this cuflom ; and the introduction of new domeftic animals into their country might haften that period, fince greater affluence would tend to make them more fociable.   Their religion does not feem likelv to be an obftacle, becaufe from what we could judge, they are not remarkably fuperftitious, and it is only among very bigoted nations, that the cufiom of offering human flefh to the gods, has prevailed after civilization.   Tupaya f, the only man who could freely con-verfe with the New Zeelanders, foon learnt that they acknowledged a fu preme Being ; and this fpark of divine revelation probably remains amongfl all nations on the globe. To this they add the belief of fome inferior divinities, fo correfpondent to thofe of the Taheitians, that their fyftem of polytheifm mufl be of very ancient date, and feems to derive its origin from their common anceflors.   Wc never obferved a fingle ceremony in New Zeeland, which could be fuppofed to have a religious tendency ; and I know of only two circumftances which maybe diftantly conftrued to
* See Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. 389, 390. t See Hawkefworth, vol. Ill, p. 472.
favour
favour of fuperftition.   The firfl is the name of atuee, " the Hoiffi;n
bird of the divinity," which they fometimes give to a fpecies
of creeper * (cerlbia cincinnata.)   This name feems to indicate
a veneration like that which is paid to herons, and king-
fifhers at Taheitee, and the Society Ifles ; but I cannot fay
that they ever expreffed the leaft wifh to preferve the life
of this bird in preference to the reft.    The fecond, is the
cuftom of wearing an amulet of green jadde on the breaft,
from a firing round the neck.   This piece of flone is of the
fize of two crown-pieces, and carved fo as to bear a rude
refemblancc to a human being.   Thefe they call e-tccghee,
a name which is doubilefs equivalent to the Taheitian c-tee f.
In that ifland, and the adjacent group, e-tee fignifies a
wooden image of the human figure, creeled on a pole at
their cemeteries, in memory of the dead, but to which no
worfhip nor particular refpecT is paid.    The New Zeeland
tecghee feems to be worn with a fimilar view, but not to
be better refpecied ; for though they did not part with it
for a trifle, yet with half a yard of broad cloth or red
kerfey, which were our beft goods in Queen Charlotte's
Sound, wc never failed to purchafe it.   Befides this, they
often wear feveral rows of human teeth round the neck,
but we underftood that they were only the memorials of
* Our failors called this the poe-bird,    Its common New Zeeland name is kogo.
f Better pronounced E-Tec-ee.
their
i&vÌmbì*. lnciv prowefs, linee they had belonged to the enemies whom they had killed. It always appeared to us, that they have no prieRs or jugglers of any kind among them, which accounts for their having fo little fuperftition. When the comforts of life are multiplied, it is poflible that fome individuals may be artful enough to improve upon their prefent ideas of religion, in order to enjoy exclufive advantages ; for it has often been the fate of mankind, that the moft facred, and "moft ineftimable gift of heaven, has ferved as a cloak under cover of which they have been deluded.
Having fitted the fliip to encounter the rigorous climate of the fouth, and received on board her provifion of frefh water and wood, as well as the bifcuit which had been baked over again, we re-imbarked all the tents from the Wednefd. 24. fhore, and on the 24th, early in the morning, unmoored and rode by a fingle anchor. The natives immediately repaired to the beach which we had left, and finding there a heap of bread-duft which had been rejected as unfit for ufe at the revifal of our bifcuit, they fell to, and confumcd it all, though our hogs had before refufed to touch it. We could not attribute this proceding to neceffity, becaufe they had plenty of frefh fifth, of which they daily fold us enough for our confumpt*ion. It was rather owing to the diverfity of their tafle from ours, or to the natural inclination for variety, which made them eat the worft of vegetable food,
becaufe
becaufe it was a rarity, in preference to fifh, which is their Nov\7^BR,
conftant diet.   They had another motive for vifuing the
place of our late eftablifhment ; this was, to pick up any
little trifles, fuch as nails, rags, 8cc, which we might have
left behind.   Whilft they were fo employed, fome others
came from the interior parts of the bay, and offered a great
quantity of their tools and weapons to fell.
In the afternoon, a boat was fent on fhore to bury a bottle at the foot of a tree, with a letter for captain Furneaux, in cafe he fhould come into the harbour after our departure. Another boat, with feveral officers, and my father, went to Indian Cove, where the entrails of the body ftill lay on the ground. The war-canoe, in which the expedition had been made, had a carved head ornamented with bunches of brown feathers, and a double-forked prong projected from it, on which the heart of their flain enemy was transfixed. Our gentlemen purchafed a quantity of their prepared hemp or flax, and many fifli-hooks, armed with bjnc, which, according to the account of the narives, was taken from the human arm.
At four o'clock the next morning, a boat was fent to the Thurfday »s, Motu-Aro, in order to take a few cabbages out of our plantations. My father took that opportunity of fearcfting the fhore for the laft time, and was fortunate enough to find fome plants which we had not feen before. In the mean while we hove the anchor, fet fail, and took up the
Vol. I. X x x boat
boat on our way ; but finding the current and wind againft us, we were forced to come to again about feven o'clock, between Motu-Aro and Long Ifland, Here we lay an hour or two, and then fet fail with a more favourable breeze, which carried us into Cook's Strait.
Wc flood clofe in fhore under cape Tera-Wktce, and fired feveral guns to give the Adventure notice of our approach, in cafe fhe had lain in one of the adjacent harbours. Between the Capes Tera-Wittee and Pallifer, wc difcovered a very deep bay, of which the fhorcs had every where a gentle flope, and efpecially towards the bottom, where the hills were removed to fuch a diftance, that we could but juft difcern them. If there is a fufficient depth of water for fhips in this bay, and of that wc had no room to doubt, it appears to be a moft convenient fpot for an European fettlernent. There is a great ftretch of land fit for cultivation, and eafily defenfible ; there is likewife plenty of wood, and almoft certain indications of a confiderable river ; and laflly, the country does not feem to be very populous, fo that there would be little danger of quarrels with the natives; advantages which are not frequently to be met with jointly in many fpots of New Zeeland. The flag (phormium tenax) of which the natives make all their clothes, mats, ropes* and nets, affords fuch an excellent kind of flax, which is, at once glofTy, elaftic, and ftrong, that it might become an article of commerce in India, where cordage and canvas is
wanted,.
wanted. Perhaps in future ages, when the maritime noveLm*, powers of Europe lofe their American colonies, they may think of making new eftablifhments in more diftant regions ; and if it were ever poilible for Europeans to have humanity enough to acknowledge the indigenous tribes of the South Sea as their brethren, we might have fettlemcnts which would not be defiled with the blood of innocent nations.
We continued firing guns as we Rood pari this bay, and the next morning having doubled Cape Pallifer, we Friday 5«. ran along the coafl to the northward till the evening, likewife firing guns from time to time. Our attempts to rejoin our confort were to no purpofc ; we heard no anfwer to all our fignals, though wc hearkened with an attention, and an eagernefs which plainly fhewed how unwillingly we ventured on a fecond cruize among numberlefs dangers without a companion. We were forced at laft to give up the thought of feeing her again, and about fix o'clock took our departure from Cape Pallifer, fleering to the S. S. E.
The fcurvy, which had afflicted fome of our people after the firft tedious cruize to the fouth, between the Cape of Good Hope and Dufky Bay, had been entirely fubducd by the wholefomc diet on fifh, and the drinking of fpruce-beer in that harbour; and afterwards by the excellent greens in Queen Charlotte's Sound. Our difagreeable paffage in winter from New Zeeland to Taheitee, had revived
X x x 2 the
jstov7m*'er. tnG fymptoms of the difeafe in many perfons, and in fome to a confiderable degree ; but the continual fupply of frefh vegetables, which wc received at that ifland, together with the. provifion of excellent pork at the Society and Friendly files, had entirely re-eftablifhed them. Our fecond flay at Queen's Charlotte's Sound had likewife furnifhed us, as before, with abundance of celery and fcurvy-grafs, which counteracted the noxious effects of falted meat ; fo that we were, to appearance, in a good Rate of health at our fecond departure from thence. It may, however, juftly be quef-tioned, whether the continual hardfhips and labours which we had undergone, had not in reality made the fhew of health deceitful, and impaired the body fo much that it was not able to rcfift fo long as it had formerly done. The
officers and paffengers entered upon this fecond cruize under feveral difficulties which did not exifl before. They had now no live-Rock to be compared to that which they took from the Cape of Good Hope ; and the little flore of provifions which had fupplied their table with variety in preference to that of the common failor, was now fo far con-fumed, that they were nearly upon a level, cfpecially as the feamen were inured to that way of life by conflant habit almoR from their infancy ; and the others had never experienced it before. The hope of meeting with new lands was vanifhed, the topics of common converfation were ex-haufled, the cruize to the fouth could not prefent any thing
new.
new, but appeared in all its chilling horrors before us, and n«vemi£« the abfence of our confort doubled every danger. We had enjoyed a few agreeable days between the tropics, wc had fcalled as well as the produce of various illands would permit, and we had been entertained with the novelty of many objects among different nations ; but, according to the common viciffhudes of fortune, this agreeable moment was to be replaced by a long period of fogs and frofty weather, of falling, and of tedious uniformity. The late Abbe Chappe, in his voyage to California, (or his compiler, M. Caflini, in his name,) obferves *, " that variety alone has charms for " the traveller, who goes in qucR of her from one country " to another." His philofophy is at the fertile time of fuch an exalted nature, that he pronounces f «' the life which « is led at fea to be tedious and uniform only to thofe who « are not accuflomed to look round them, and who bc-'■ hold all nature with the eye of indifference." Had the good Abbe been unfortunate enough to make a vifit to the antarctic circle, without the company of feveral hundred fattened fowls, which kept him in good humour on his fhort trip from Cadiz to Vera Cruz, his philofophy would not have taken fo high a flight. But though he found variety at fea, he was not fo fortunate in Mexico j. Here he crofTed great tracts of uncultivated country and extcnfive forefls, he faw nature in a favage fiate, allowed that fhe was rich and
* *H  »« t Pag- 13. I P% 22.
beautiful 5
beautiful ; bur, in the fpace of a few days, her multiplicity of charms became infipid and uniform in his eyes. And yet this traveller alTures us, that he was aflronomcr, bota-nifl, zoologifl, mineralogift, chymift, and philofophcr !
We quitted the fhores of New Zeeland with ideas very different from thofe ofAbbé Chappe j and if any thing alleviated the drearinefs of the profpecT with a great part of our fhip-matcs, it was the hope of completing the circle round the South-Pole in a high latitude during the next in-hofpitable fummer, and of returning to England within the fpace of eight months. This hope contributed to animate the fpirits of our people during the greatefl part of our continuance in bad weather j but in the end it vanifhed like a dream, and the only thought which could make them
amends, was the certainty of pafilng another feafon among the happy iflands in the torrid zone.
CHAP.
November.
CHAP, III.
The fecond courfe towards the high fouthern latitudes from New Zee-land to Eafler JJlaiuU
THE morning after we had taken our departure, wc Saturday 17. had a N. N. W. wind, which raifcd the thermometer to 64 deg. The two next days it Rood at 54 deg. then at 48 ; and when we were in about 400 of fouth latitude, at *44j. deg. On the 28th of November, we obferved a number of feals, or perhaps fea-lions, pafìing by us at a diftance towards the land which we had left. From that time to the 6ih of December we daily faw great flocks of blue Monday 6. and other petrels, together with the different fpecics of al-batroffes, the fkuas or grey gulls, many "pinguins, and abundance of fea-weed. About feven in the evening, on that day, we were in the latitude of $1° 33' fouth, and long. i8o°; confequently juR at the point of the antipodes of London. The remembrance of domeflic felicity, and of the fvvects of fociety, called forth a figh from every heart which felt the tender tics of filial or parental affection. We are the fu ft Europeans, and I believe I may add, the firft human beings, who have reached this point, where it is probable none will come after us. A common report prevails indeed in England concerning Sir Eranda Drake,.
who*
1771-
who is faid to have vifited the antipodes, which the legend expreiTcs by " his having paffed under the middle arch of " London-bridge:" but this is a miftakc, as his track lay along the coaft of America, and probably originates from his having paffed the penaci, or the point in i8o° long, on the fame circle of north latitude, on the coaft of California. In proportion as we advanced to the fouthward the thcr-rriday 10. mometer fell ; and on the i oth, in the morning, the wind coming more ahead, it defcended to 37 °. At noon we had reached the latitude of 590 fouth, without having met with any ice, though we fell in with it the preceding year 1 on the ioih of December, between the 50th and 51ft deg. of fouth latitude. It is difficult to account for this difference j perhaps a fevere winter preceding our firft courfe from the Cape of Good Hope, might accumulate more ice that year than the next, which is the more probable, as we learnt at the Carve that the winter had been fharpcr there than ufual ; perhaps a violent florm might break the polar ice, and drive it fo far to the northward as we found it ; and perhaps both thefe caufes might concur, with others, to produce this effect.
On the 1 ith, at night, the cold encreafed, the thermometer (landing at 34 deg. and at four o'clock the next Sunday j*.    morning a large ifland of floating ice was feen ahead, which we paffed an hour afterwards.   At eight o'clock the thermometer was already at 3 1 ~ deg. the air being probably refrigerated
frigerated by the ice, though we did not fee more than December, this one piece.   At noon we found the latitude to be 61 ° 46' fouth.   The next morning the thermometer flood at 3 1 deg. and we ran to the eaflward with a frefh breeze, though we had a furprifing fall of fnow, which filled the air to fuch a degree that we could not fee ten yards before us.    Our friend Mahine had already expreRèd his furprizc at feveral little fnow and hail fhowers on the preceding days, this phenomenon being utterly unknown in his country.   The appearance of H white flones," which melted in his  hand, was  altogether miraculous in his eyes, and though we endeavoured to explain to him that cold was the caufe of their formation, yet I believe his ideas on that fubjecì: were never very clear.   The heavy fall of fnow this day furprifed him more than what he had feen before, and after a long confideration of its lingular qualities, he told us he would call it the white rain when he came back to his country. He did not fee the firft ice on account of the early hour of the morning ; but two days after, in about 6$ deg. of fouth latitude, he was firuck with afionifhmcnt upon feeing one of the largeft pieces, and the day following prefented him with an extenfive field of ice, which blocked up our farther progrefs to the fouth, and gave him great plea-fure, fuppofing it to be land.   We told him that fo far from being land, it was nothing but frelli water, which we found fome difficulty to convince him off at firfl, till we Vol, I. Y y y (hewed
tcjMiw. (hewed him the ice which was formed in the fcuttlcd cafk on the deck. Lie afTured us, however, that he would at all events'call this the white land, by way of diftinguifhing it from all the reft. Already, at New Zeeland, he had collected a number of little ilender twigs, which he carefully tied in a bundle, and made ufe of inftead ' of journals. For every ifland which he had feen and vifited, after his departure from the Society Ifles, he had fclected a little twig ; fo that his collection amounted at prefent to nine or ten, of which he remembered the names perfectly well in the fame order as we had feen them, and the white land, or whennua tèatèa, was the laft. He enquired frequently how many other countries we fhould meet with in our way to England, and formed a feparate bundle of them, which he ftudied every day with equal care as the firft. The tedi* oufnefs of this part of our voyage probably made him fo eager to know how it would end j and the fait provifions, together with the cold climate, contributed to difguft him. His ufual amufemcnt was to feparate the red feathers from the aprons, ufed in dancing, which he had purchafed at Tonga-Tabboo, and to join eight or ten of them together into a little tuft, by means of coco-nut core. The reft of his time he paffed in walking on deck, vifiting the officers and petty officers, and warming himfelf by the fire in the captain's cabin. We took this opportunity to improve in the knowledge of his language, and, by degrees, revifed
the
the whole vocabulary which we had collected at the Society Ifles. By this method we became poiTefTed of a fund of ufeful intelligence concerning his country and the adjacent ifles, which led us to make many enquiries at our fubfe-quent return to thofe iflands.
The ice-fields appeared, in different parts of the horizon, about us on the i 5th in the morning, fo that we were in a manner embayed ; and, as we faw no poflibility of advancing to the fouth, wc ran to the N. N. E. to get clear of them.    The weather, which was already foggy, became thicker towards noon, and made our fituation, amidft a great number of floating rocks of ice, extremely dangerous. About one o'clock, whilft the people were at dinner, we were alarmed by the fudden appearance of a large ifland of ice juft a head of us.    It was abfolutcly impoflible cither to wear or tack the fhip *, on account of its proximity, and our only rcfource was to keep as near the wind as poffible, and to try to weather the danger.   We were in the moft dreadful fufpenfe for a few minutes, and though we fortunately fucceeded, yet the fhip paffed within her own length to windward of it. Notwithflanding the conftant perils to which our courfe expofed us in this unexplored ocean, our ffiip's company were far from being fo uneafy as might have been expected ; and, as in battle the fight of death becomes familiar and often unaffecting, fo here, by daily experiencing
*     e. To go round either with or againft the wind.
Y y y 3 fuch
December, fuch hair-breadth cfcapcs, wc palTed unconcernedly on, as if the waves, the winds, and rocks of ice had not the power to hurt us. The pieces of ice had a variety of fhapes', in the fame manner as thofe which we had obferved to the fouthward of the Indian Ocean ; and many pyramids, obe-lifks, and church-fpircs appeared from time to time. Their height was not much inferior to that which we had obferved among the firft iflands of ice in 1772; and many like-wife refembled them in being of a great extent and perfectly level at top.
The number of birds which wc had hitherto met with on our paflagc, would have perfuaded any other voyagers but ourfelves of the approach of land. We were, however, fo much ufed to their appearance on the fea at prefent, as never once to form any expectation of difcovcring land from that circumftancc. Flocks of blue petrels and pinta-das, many albatroffes, with now and then a folitary fkua had attended us every day ; and to thefe, fince our approach to the ice, we could join the fnowy and antarctic petrels and the fulmars. Llowevcr, pinguins, fea-weed, or feals, had not been obferved fince the 10th.
The weather, which was extremely moift and difagrec-ably cold, proved unfavourable to the doves and pigeons which many people had purchafed at the Society and Friendly Iflands, and to the finging-birds which they had been at great pains to catch alive at New Zeeland. We had five doves
at
at our departure from this country, all which died one af- jwiUJg, ter another before the i 6 th of December, being much more expofed to the cold in our cabins, than in the failors births. The thermometer in our cabins was never more than 5 deg. higher than in the open air on deck, and their fituation abreaft of the main-mad, where the ftrain of the fhip is greatefl, expofed them to currents of air, and made them admit water like fieves.
On the ióth, in the afternoon, and on the 17th, we Friday^ hoifted out our boats and collected fome loofe pieces of ice to fill our empty cafks with frefh water. The ice which we picked up was old and fpungy, and impregnated with faline panicles, from having long been in a fiate of decay ; therefore did not afford us very good water, but it was drinkable, particularly if we let the pieces of ice lie on deck for fome time, by which means the falt-watcr was almoR entirely drained off. From this time till the 20th we faw no birds about us, which difappeared without any vifible caufe ; but on that day fome albatroifes appeared again.
Having left the ice behind which obstructed our paffage, wc had gradually advanced to the fouthward again, that being our principal object, and on the 2cth in the after- Monday** noon, we croffed the antarctic circle the fecond time during our voyage. The weather was wet and foggy, ice iflands were numerous around us, and tlie gale was very brifk. Many antarctic petrels, and a whale which fpouted up the
water-
^ '773,     water near us, feemed to indicate our entrance into the
December.        *^ j
frigid zone. At night two feals appeared, which we had not feen for fourteen days paft, and gave fome faint hopes of feeing land to feveral of our ihipmates ; but our courfe difappointed their expectations, by continuing within the circle as far as 67° 12" S. lat. for feveral days following, murfday »j. On the 23d in the afternoon, we were furrounded with iflands of ice, and the fea was in a manner covered with fmall fragments. The fhip was therefore brought to, the boats hoifted out, and a great quantity of good ice taken on board. The birds were at prefent very numerous about us again, and fome antarctic and other petrels were fhot and taken up, which we had an opportunity of drawing and defcribing.    About this time many perfons were
afflicted with violent rheumatic pains, head-aches, fwellcd glands, and catarrhal fevers, which fome attributed to the ufe of ice-water. My father, who had complained of a cold for feveral days paft, was obliged to keep his bed today, having a fevere rheumatifm with a fever. His complaint feemed rather to arife from the wretched accommodations which he had on board, every thing in his cabin rotting in the wet which it admitted, and being mouldy. The cold was fo fenfible there this day in particular, that he found only a difference of two degrees and a half between the thermometer there, and that upon the deck.
After
After hoifling in our boats we made fail to the north- Decy ward, as much as a contrary wind permitted, during all the night and the next day.   On the 25 th, the weather was Saturday 25, clear and fair, but the wind died away to a perfect calm, upwards of ninety large ice-iflands being in fight at noon. This being Chriftmas-day, the captain according to cuflom, invited the officers and mates to dinner, and one of the lieutenant's  entertained   the   petty-ofRcers.    The failors feafted on a double portion of pudding, regaling themfelves with the brandy of their allowance, which they had fave 1 for this occafion fome months before-hand, being follicitous to get very drunk, though they are commonly follicitous about nothing clfe.   The fight of an immenfe number of icy maffes, amongfl which we drifted at the mercy of the current,  every moment in danger of being dafhed to pieces againft them, could not deter the failors from indulging in their favourite amufement.   As long as they had brandy left, they would perfift to keep Chriflmas " like Christians," though the elements had confpired together for their destruction.   Their long acquaintance with a fea-faring life had inured them to all kinds of perils, and their heavy labour, with the inclemencies of weather, and other hardfhips, making their mufcles rigid and their nerves obtufe, had communicated infenfibility to the mind. It will cafily be conceived, that as they do not feel for themfelves fufliciently to provide for their own fafety, they
muft
muft be incapable of feeling for others. Subjected to a very ftricì: command, they alfo exercife a tyrannical fway over thofe whom fortune places in their power. Accuftomed to face an enemy, they breathe nothing but war. By force of habit even killing is become fo much their paftion, that we have feen many inftances during our voyage, where they have expreffed a horrid eagernefs to ft re upon the natives on the flighted pretences. Their way of life in general prevents their enjoying domeflic comforts ; and grofs animal appetites fill the place of purer affections.
At laft, extincl: each fecial feeling, fell And joylefs inhumanity pervades
And petrifies the heart. Thompson.
Though they are members of a civilized fociety, they may in fome mcafure be looked upon as a body of uncivilized men, rough, pailionate, revengeful, but likewife brave, fincere, and true to each other.
At noon the obfervation of the fun's altitude determined our latitude to be 6 6° 22' fouth, fo that we were juft returned out of the antarctic circle. We had fcarcely any night during our ftay in the frigid zone, fo that I find feveral articles in my father's journal, written by the light of the fun, within a few minutes before the hour of midnight. The fun's flay below the horizon was fo very fhort this night likewife, that wc had a very flrong twilight all the time.   Mahine was ftruck with the greatefl aftonifii-
ment
ment at this phenomenon, and would fcarcely believe his dec em™*. fenfes. All our endeavours to explain it to him mifcarricd, and he allured us he defpaired of finding belief among his countrymen, when he mould come back to recount the wonders of petrified rain, and of perpetual day. The firft Venetians who explored the northern extremes of the European continent, were equally furprifed at the continual appearance of the fun above the horizon, and relate that they could only diflinguifh day from night, by the infiincl. of the fea fowl, which went to rooft on fhore, for the fpace of four hours *f As we were in all likelihood far diftant from any land, this indication failed us, and we have often obferved numerous birds on the wing about us all the night, and particularly great flocks of different fpecies, fo late as eleven o'clock.
At fix in the evening, we counted one hundred and five large maffes of ice around us from the deck, the weather continuing very clear, fair, and perfectly calm. Towards
Sunday *8,
noon the next day we were Hill in the fame fituation, with a very drunken crew, and from the maft-head obferved one hundred and fixty-cight ice iflands, fome of which were half a mile long, and none lefs than the hull of the fhip.
* Pietro Quirino failed in April 143', and was mifcrably fhipwrecked at the ifle of Roeft or Ruften, on the coaft of Norway, under the polar circle, in January 143;,—See Navigazioni et Viaggi raccolti da G. b> Ramufio. Vcnct. 1574. voi, II. p, 20^, 210.
Vol. I. Zzz The
twVmIV*   The whole fcene looked like the wrecks of a fliattcrcd world, or as the poets defcribe fome regions of hell ; an idea which Rruck us the more forcibly, as execrations^ oaths, and curfes re-echoed about us on all fides. Monday »7.       A faint breeze fprung up in the afternoon, with which we made flow advances to the northward, the number of ice iflands decreafing in proportion as we receded from the antarctic circle.   About four the next morning, we hoiflcd out our boats, and took in a frelli provinoti of ice. The weather changed foon after, the wind coming about to the north-eaflward, which brought on much fnow and fleet. My father, and twelve other perfons were again much afflicted with rheumatic pains, and confined to their beds. The fcurvy did not yet appear under any dangerous form in the fhip, and all thofe who had any flight fymptoms of it, amongfl whom I was one, drank plentifully of the frefh wort, quite warm, twice a day, and abflaincd as much as poffiblc from falt-dict.    A general languor and fickly look however, manifefted itfelf in almoft every perfon'3 face, which threatened us with more dangerous confe* quences.    Captain Cook himfelf was likewife pale and lean, entirely loft his appetite, and laboured under a perpetual coftivenefs.
1774. We advanced to the northward as much as the winds
Januahy.
Saturdaywould permit us, and loft fight of the ice on the firft of Tuefday*.    January 1774, in S9° 7'S. latitude.   On the 4th, the
wind
A VOAGE  ROUND  THE   WORLD. 539
-wind blowing from the weftward was very boifterous, and jANVItv. obliged us to keep all our fails double-reefed ; the fea ran high, and the fhip worked very heavily, rolling violently from fide to fide.   This continued till the 6*th at noon, Thwfity when, having reached 510 of S. latitude, we bore away from the wind, to the N. N. E.   We were now within a few degrees of the track which we had made in June and July laft, in going from New Zeeland to Taheitce, and had directed our courfe towards it, in order to leave no confiderable part of this great ocean unexplored.    As far as wc had hitherto advanced, we had found no land, not even indications of land ; our firfl  track had croffed the South Sea in the middle latitudes, or between 40 and 50 degrees. In our courfe till Chriftmas, wc had explored the greatefl part of it between 60 degrees and the antarctic circle ; and the prefent courfe to the northward had croffed the fpace between the two former runs.   If any land has efcaped us, it muft  be an ifland, whofe diflance from Europe, and fituation in an uncouth climate cannot make it valuable to this country.    It is obvious that to fcarch a fea of fuch extent as the South Sea, in order to be certain of the exift-ence, or non-exiflcnce of a fmall ifland, would require many-voyages in numberlefs different tracks, and cannot be effected in a fingle expedition.   But it is fufficient for us, to have proved that no large land or continent cxifis in the
Z z z 2 South
janJIIV. South Sea within the temperate zone, and that if it exifts at all, we have at lead confined it within the antarctic circle.
The long continuance in thefc cold clirnates began now to hang heavily on our crew, efpecially as it banifhed all hope of returning home this year, which had hitherto fup-ported their fpirits. At firft a painful defpondcncc, owing to the dreary profpcct of another year's cruize to the South, feemed painted in every countenance ; till by degrees they refigncd themfelves to their fate, with a kind of fullen indifference. It muft be owned however, that nothing could be more dejecting than the entire ignorance of our future deftination, which, without any apparent reafon, was con-ftantly kept a fecret to every perfon in the fhip.
Wc now flood to the north-eaftward for a few days, till
we came fo far as 470 5*2' fouth latitude, where the thermometer rofe to 52 degrees. On that day, which was the Monday 11. 1 ith, at noon, the courfe was directed to the S> E. again, though this frequent and fudden change of climate could not fail of proving very hurtful to our health in general.
fetordiy is«   ^n mc 1 ->m the wind encreafed very much, and in a fhort time blew a tempeftuous gale, which took.
— ■ the ruffian billows by the top
Curling their monftrous heads and hanging them
With deaf'ning clamours in the Jlippery ftirouds. Shakespeare.
At nine o'clock a huge mountainous wave ftruck the fhip on the beam, and filled the decks with a deluge of water.
It
It poured through the fky-light over our heads, and ex- j^JLy. tinguifhed the candle, leaving us for a moment in doubt, whether we were not entirely overwhelmed and finking into theabyfs. Every thing was afloat in my father's cabin, and his bed was thoroughly fbaked. His rheumatifm, which had now afflicted him above a fortnight, was Rill fo violent as to have almoft deprived him of the ufe of his legs, and his pains redoubled in the morning. Our fituation at pre- Sunday is* fent was indeed very difmal, even to thofe who prcferved the blefting of health ; to the fick, whofe crippled limbs were tortured with excefiive pain, it was infupportable. The ocean about us had a furious afpect, and feemed in-cenfed at the prefumption of a few intruding mortals. A gloomy melancholy air loured on the brows of our fhip-mates, and a dreadful filencc reigned amongft us. Salt meat, our conftant diet, was become loathfome to all, and even to thofe who had been bred to a nautical life from their tender years : the hour of dinner was hateful to us, for the well known fmell of the victuals had no fooner reached our nofc, than wc found it impoffiblc to partake o£r them with a hearty appetite.
It will appear from hence that this voyage was not to be compared to any preceding one, for the multitude of hard-mips and diflreffes which attended it. Our predeceffors in the South Sea had always navigated within the tropic, or at leaft in the beft parts of the temperate zone ; they had
rdmoft'
January,   almoft conftantly enjoyed mild cafy weather, and failed in fight of lands, which were never fo wretchedly deftitute as not to afford them refrefhments from time to time. Such a voyage would have been merely a party of pleafure to us ; continually entertained with new and often agreeable objects, our minds would have been at eafe, our convocation cheerful, our bodies healthy, and our whole fituation defirable and happy.   Ours was juft the reverfeof this; our 'fouthern cruizes were uniform and tedious in the higheft ■degree; the ice, the fogs, the ftorms and ruffled furface of the fea formed a difagreeable fcene, which was feldom cheered by the reviving beams of the fun ; the climate was rigorous and our food detcftablc.    In fhort, wc rather vegetated than lived ; we withered, and became indifferent to all that animates the foul at other times.   We facrificed our health, our feelings, our enjoyments, to the honour of purfuing a track unattempted before.   This was indeed a$ the poet fays,
---propter vitam vivendi perdere caufas. Juvenal.
The crew were as much diftreffed as the officers, from another caufe. Their bifcuit, which had been for ted at New Zeeland., baked over again, and then packed up, was now in the fame decayed ftatc as before. This was owing partly to the revifal, which had been fo rigorous, that many a bad bifcuit was prefcrved among thole that were eatable, and partly to the neglect of the cafks, which had
not
nor been fuflicic.ntly fumigated and dried. Of this rotten uJSSt. bread the people only received two thirds of their ufual allowance, from ceconomical principles ; but, as that por-tion is hardly fufficient, fuppofing it to be all eatable, it-was far from being fo when nearly one half of it was rotten. However, they continued in that diftrefsful fituation till this day, when the firft mate came to the captain and complained bitterly that he and the people had not wherewith to fatisfy the cravings of the ftomach, producing, at the fame time, the rotten and (linking remains of his bifcuit. Upon this the crew were put to full allowance. The captain feemed to recover again as we advanced to the fouthward, but all thofe who were afflicted with rheuma-tifms continued as much indifpofed as ever.
The firft ice iflands which wc met with on this run were .,, « in 620 30' fouth, on the 20th, but they did not accumulate in number in proportion to our progrefs, fo that we croifed the antarctic circle again on the 26th, without fee- „, ,
0 Wcdnefd. » 6;
ing more than a few folitary pieces. On that day we were-amufed with the appearance of land ; for after Handing on towards it for fome hours, it vaniflicd in clouds, t he next Thurftlay day, at noon, we were in 6j° 52 fouth ; confequcntly to the fouthward of any of our former tracks, and met with no ice to flop us. The blue petrels, the little ftorm petrels, and the pintadas Itili accompanied us, but albatroifes had left us fome time ago.   We were now once more in the
regions
regions of perpetual day *, and had funfhinc at the hour of midnight.
On the 28th, in the afternoon, wc paflTed a large bed of broken ice, hoiiicd out the boats, and took up a great quantity, which afforded a feafonablc fupply of frefh. water. At midnight the thermometer was not lower than 34", and the next morning wc enjoyed the mildeft funfhine wc had ever experienced in the frigid zone. My father therefore ventured upon deck for the firft time after a month's confinement.
We now entertained hopes of penetrating to the fouth as far as other navigators have dene towards the north pole; but on the 30th, about feven o'clock in the morning, wc difcovered a folic! ice-field of immenfe extent before us, which bore from E. to W. A bed of fragments floated all round this field, which feemed to be railed feveral feet high above the level of the water. A vafl: number of icy maifes, fome of a very great height, were irregularly piled up upon it, as far as the eye could reach. Our latitude was at thi3 time 71 0 1 o'fouth, confequcntly lefs than 19 deg. from the pole ; but as it was impoftiblc to proceed farther, wc put the fhip about, well fatisficd with our perilous expedition, and almoft perfuaded that no navigator will care to come after, and much lefs attempt to pafs beyond us.
• In the frozen zone, where the fun remains fix months above and fix months below the horizon,  dividing the year into one Jong day and night.
Our
Our longitude at this time was nearly io6° W.    The jJJa thermometer here was at 320, and a great many pinguins were heard croaking round us, but could not be feen on account of the foggy weather which immediately fucceeded,
As often as wc had hitherto penetrated to the fouthward, we had met with no land, but been flopped fooner or later by a folid ice-field, which extended before us as far as we could fee. At the fame time we had always found the winds moderate and frequently caflerly in thefe high latitudes, in the fame manner as they are faid to be in the northern frozen zone. From thefc circumftances my father has been led to fuppofe, that all the fouth pole, to the diflance of 20 degrees, more or lefs, is covered with folid ice, of which only the extremities are annually broken by florms, con fumed by the action of the fun, and regenerated in winter.
--— ftat glacies iners
Menfes per omnes.——-—■ Horat,
This opinion is the lefs exceptionable, fince there feems to be no abfolute neceflhy for the exiftence of land towards the formation of ice*, and becaufe we have little reafon to fuppofe that there actually is any land of confiderable extent in the frigid zone.
We ran to the northward with moderate winds till the s^tJrday1 5th of February, when we got a fine frefh breeze after a
* Sec vol, I. page 95.
Vol. I. 4 A fhort
/
ff.br7Ja'rv, fhort calm. The day after it fhifted to S. E. and frefhencd fo as to blow very hard at night, and fplit feveral fails. As it was favourable for the purpofc of advancing to the northward, the only circumftance that afforded us comfort, we were far from being concerned at its violence, and in
TutfJay i, the next twenty-four hours made upwards of three degrees of latitude. The fame gale affifted us till the i 2th, when we obferved the latitude to be s°° * s' fouth, our thermometer being once more returned to the milder temperature of 48 degrees. We were now told that we mould fpend the winter feafon, which was coming on apace, among the tropical iflands of the Pacific Ocean, in the fame manner as wc had paffed that immediately preceding. The profpeet of making new difcoveries, and of enjoying the excellent refrefhments which thofe iflands afford, entirely revived our hopes, and made us look on our continuance on the weflern fide of Cape Home with fome degree of fatis-faclion.
A great number of our people were however afflicted with very fevere rheumatic pains, which deprived them of the ufe of their limbs ; but their fpirits were fo low, that they had no fever. Though the ufe of that excellent prophylactic the four krout, prevented the appearance of the fcurvy during all the cold weather, yet being made of cabbage, it is not fo nutritive that we could live upon it without the afiiflance of bifcuit and falt-bcef.   Rut the
former
former of thefe beino; rotten, and the other almoR con-  r 1 fumed by the fair, it is obvious that no wholefome juices could be fecreted from thence, which might have kept the body flrong and vigorous.   Under thefe difficulties all our patients recovered very flowiy, having nothing to reftore their ftrcngth ; and my father, who had been in exquifitc torments during the greatefl part of our fouthern cruize, was afflicted with tooth-aches, fwelled checks, fore-throat, and univerfal pain till the middle of February, when he ventured on deck perfectly emaciated.   The warm weather which was beneficial to him, proved fatal to captain Cook's conftitution.   The difappearance of his bilious complaint during our laft pulh to the fouth, had not been fo fincerc, as to make him recover his appetite.   The return to the north therefore brought on a dangerous obftruction, which the captain very unfortunately flighted, and concealed from every perfon in the fhip, at the fame time endeavouring to get the better of it by taking hardly any fuflenance. This proceeding, inflead of removing, encreafed the evil, his ftomach being already weak enough'before.   He was afflicted with violent pains, which in the fpace of a few days confined him to his bed, and forced him to have rccourfe to medicines.    He took a purge, but inflcad of producing the defired effect, it caufed a violent vomiting, which was affiftcd immediately by proper emetics.   All attempts however to procure a paffage through his bowels were inef-
4 A 2 fectual ;
FmvijLY. fectual j his food and medicines were thrown up, and in a few days a mofl dreadful hiccough appeared, which lafted for upwards of twenty-four hours, with fuch aftonifhing violence that his life was entirely defpaired of. Opiates and glyfters had no cfFecl:, till repeated hot baths, and plafters of thcriaca applied on his Romach, had relaxed his body and interlines. This however, was not effecTed till he had lain above a week in the moR imminent danger. Our fervant fell ill about the fame time with the captain, of the fame diforder, and narrowly efcaped, but continued weak and unferviceable the greatefl part of our cruize between the tropics.
During this time we advanced to the northward very
Tuefday ft. faR, fo that on the 22d we reached 360 10 S. latitude, where the albatrolles left us. Our longitude being about 94^. degrees weR from Greenwich, we Reered to the fouth-weftward, in quell of a fuppofed difcovery of Juan Fernandez, which, according to Juan Luis Arias, a Spanifh author, is faid to lie in 400 fouth latitude, and by Mr. Dalrymple's chart in 90° weft from London*.   We flood
*,id;y*5. on to the weftward till the 25th at noon, where being in 3 70 5 o S. and about ioiq W. and feeing no figns of land, we altered our courfe fomething to the northward. The dangerous fituation of captain Cook, was perhaps tire reafon, why our track was not continued farther to the
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Hifiorica! Collection, vol: I. p. 53, and-the Chare.
fouth,.
fouth, fo as to put this matter entirely out of doubt for the r future.   It was indeed of the utmoft importance at prefent, to haflen to a place of refreshment, that being the only chance to preferve his life.
On the 2 6 th, captain Cook felt fome relief from the medicines which had been adminiftercd to him, and during the three following days, recovered fo far as to be able to lit up fometimes, and take a little foup. Next to Providence it was chiefly owing to the fkill of our furgeon, Mr, Patton, that he recovered to profecute the remaining part of our voyage, with the fame fpirit with which it had hitherto been carried on. The care and afliduity with which this worthy man, watched him during his whole illnefs, cannot be fufficicntly extolled, as all our hopes of future difcoveries, as well as union in the fhip, depended folely on the pre-fervation of the captain. The furgcon's extreme attention however, had nearly colf him his own life. Having taken, no reft for many nights together, and feldom venturing to fleep an hour by day, he was fo much exhaufted, that we trembled for his life, upon which that of almoft every man in the fhip in great meafure depended. He was taken ill with a bilious diforder, which was dangerous on account of the extreme weaknefs of his ftomach, and it is more than probable, that if we had not fpeedily fallen in with land, from whence we collected fome flight refreshments, he muft have fallen a facrifice to that rigorous pcrfeverance and
extreme.
«bI7ary, extreme punctuality with which he difcharged the feveral duties of his profeiTion.
We had eaRerly winds ever,fihce the 2 2d of February, which was probably owing to the fituation of the fun, flill continuing in the fouthern hemifphere. The weather was warm and comfortable again, the thermometer being at 7 o degrees -, and fome grey terns were feen from time to time, which according to our friend Mahinc's account, march. never went to a great diflance from land. On the firfl of March, fome bonitos appeared fwiftly fwimming paft the fhip, and the next day, being in 30; degrees of latitude, we faw tropic birds again.
The fcurvy now appeared with very flrong fymptoms in the fhip, and I was particularly afflicted with it. Excruciating pains, livid blotches, rotten gums, and fwellcd legs, brought me extremely low in a few days, almoft before I was aware of the diforder ; and my ftomach being very weak, through abftinence from an unwholefome and loathed diet, I could not take the wort in fufficient quantity to remove my complaint. The fame cafe exifled with regard to a number of other people, who crawled about the decks with the greatefl difficulty.
We had almoft calm weather from the 3d to the 6th, the fky was clear, and the warmth and ferenity of the weather remarkably pleafing ; but we were impatient to proceed to
a place
a place of refrefhment, and this delay ill fuited with our mÀ"ch. wiffies.
On the 5th, at night, we faw fome towering clouds and a haze on the horizon to the fouthward, from whence we hoped for a fair wind. Already, during night, we had fome fmart fhowers, and at eight o'clok the next morning we faw the furfacc of the fea curled to the fouth-eaftward, upon which we trimmed our fails, and advanced again with a fair wind. The next morning four large albecores Monday 7. were caught, the leaft of which weighed twenty-three pounds. They afforded us a moft delicious rcpaft, it being now an hundred days fince we had tailed any frefh fifh. Shearwaters, terns, noddies, gannets, and men of war birds appeared numerous about us, hunting the fhoals of ftying-fifh which our fhip, the bonitos, albecores, and dolphins had frightened out of the water.
We reached the 27 th degree of S. latitude on the 8 th at Tuefday tf. noon, and then fhaped our courfe due weft in fearch of Easter Island, difcovered by Jacob Roggewein in 1722, and fince vifited by the Spaniards in 1770*, who gave it the name of St. Charles's Ifland. On the toth, in the Thursday 10. morning, the birds of the grey tern-kind were innumerable about us, whilft we advanced at the rate of feven miles an hour.   We lay to during night, being apprehen-
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Hiftorical Colkaion of Voyages, vol. II. pag. 85 i alfo his letter to Dr. Hawkefworth, 1773.
five
Mmiis »ve of falling in with the land, which we actually difcovered at five o'clock the next morning. The joy which this fortunate event fpread on every countenance is fcarcely to be defcribed. We had been an hundred and three days out of fight of land ; and the rigorous weather to the fouth, the fatigues of continual attendance during ilorms, or amichi dangerous maffes of ice, the fudden changes of climate, and the long continuance of a noxious diet, all together had emaciated and worn out our crew. The expectation of a fpeedy end to their fulTcrings, and the hope of finding the land Rocked with abundance of fowls and planted with fruits, according to the accounts of the Dutch navigator, now filled them with uncommon alacrity and ehccrfulnefs.
E l'uno a'l altro il mofrra, e in tanto oblia
La noia, e '1 mal de la pallata via. Tasso.
We advanced but flowly towards the land by day, to the g-cat difappointmcnt; of all on board, who became more eager in proportion as new difficulties arofe to prolong their diftrcftes. The land appeared of a moderate height, and divided into feveral hills, which gently Roped from their fummits ; its extent did not feem to be confiderable, and we were at too great a diftance to be able to form any satura il conjecture as to its productions. The next morning we were becalmed within five leagues of the ifland, which had then a black and fomewhat difagreeable appearance. We
am ufed
amufed ourfelves with catching marks, feveral of which fwam about the fhip, and eagerly fwallowed the hook, which was baited with fait pork or beef. In the afternoon a breeze fprung up, with which we flood towards the fhore, in great hopes of reaching an anchoring-place before night. The land did not look very promifing as we advanced, there being little verdure, and fcarcely any bullies upon it ; but to us who had lingered fo long under all the diftreffes of a tedious cruize at fea, the mofl barren rock would have been a welcome fight. In our way we perceived a great number of black pillars Randing upright, near two hummocks, and in different groups. They feemed to be the fame which Roggewein's people took for idols* ; but we gueffed already, at that time, that they were fuch monuments, in memory of the dead, as the Taheitians and other people in the South Seas erect near their burying-places, and call E-Tee.
The wind, which was contrary and very faint, the approach of night, and the want of an anchoring-place on the eafl fide of the ifland, difappointcd us once more, and forced us to pafs another night under fail, during which we faw feveral fires in the neighbourhood of the pillars above-mentioned. The Dutch, who likewife obferved them, called them facrificcs to the idols ; but it feems to be more probable that they were only lighted to drefs the food of the natives.
* See Mr. Dalrymplc's Hiftorical Colkaion of Voyagej, kc. vol. II. p. 91.
Vol, L 4 13 Wc
We paffed the night in making feveral trips, in order to keep to windward of the iiland and as near it as poRible, refoiving to purfue our fearch of anchorage the next day. In the mean time we reflected on the excellent means of af-ccrtaining the longitude, with which our fhip had been furnifhed, and which had carried us exactly to this ifland, though feveral former navigators, fuch as Byron, Carteret, and Bougainville had miffed ir, after taking their departure from iflands at fo fhort a diflance from it as thofe of Juan Fernandez *. Captain Carteret it feems was only milled by an erroneous latitude in the geographical tables which he confulted j but this could not be the cafe with the reR. AVe had the greateR reafon to admire the ingenious con-Rruction of the two watches which wc had on board, one executed by Mr. Kendal, exactly after the model of that made by Mr. Harrifon, and the other by Mr. Arnold on I1Ì3 own plan, both which went with great regularity. The laft was unfortunately flopped immediately after our departure from New Zeeland in June 1773, but the other went till our return to England, and gave general fatisfaction. It appears, however, that in a long run the obfervations of diftances of the moon from the fun orftars, are more to be depended upon, if they be made with good inftruments, than the watches or time-keepers, which frequently change their rates of going. The method of deducing the longitude
* Juan Fernandez, properly fo called or la de Tierra, and la Mas a fuera.
from
from the diftances of the fun and moon, or moon and Rars, march. one of the moR valuable acquifitions to the art of naviga-* tion, muft immortalize its firft inventors. Tobias Mayer, a German, and profeffor at Gottingen, was the firft who undertook the laborious tafk of calculating tables for this purpofe, for which his heirs received a parliamentary reward. Since his death the method was fo much facilitated by additional calculations, that the longitude will perhaps never be determined with greater precifion at fea by any other means.
The latitude of Eafter Ifland correfponds within a minute or two with that which is marked in admiral Roggewein's own MS. journal*, and his longitude is only one degree erroneous, our obfervations having afcertained it in i 09° 46' weft from Greenwich. The Spanifh accounts of the latitude are likewife exact, but they err in longitude about thirty leagues.
* Sec the Lives of the Governors of Batavia.—It is there expreffed 270 04' S. latitude, and 2650 42' E. from Tcncrif, or no0 45' W. from London.
4 B 2
C II A P.
CHAP.
IV.
An Account of Eafter Ifland, and our Stay there.
N the i 3 th, early in the morning, we ran clofe ta
v->^ the fouth point of the ifland, where the more rofe perpendicularly, and confuted of broken rocks, whofe cavernous appearance, and black or ferruginous colour, feemed to have been produced by fubterraneous fire. Two detached rocks lay about a quarter of a miles off this point j one of them was Angular on account of its fhape, refem-bling a huge column or obelifk, and both were the habitations of numerous fea-fowls, which flunned our ears with their difcordant fcreams. Soon after we opened another point about ten miles diflant from this, and as we advanced we perceived the ground gently Hoping to the fea. On the flopc we difcovered feveral plantations by the help of our glafles j but the furface of the ifle in general appeared to be extremely dreary and parched, and thefe plantations were fo thinly fcattered upon it, that they did not flatter our hopes of meeting with confiderable refreshments. However, our eyes, long unufed to the enchanting profpect of verdure, were conflantly directed towards the fhore, where we diftinguifhed a number of people nearly naked, haflily running down from the hills towards the fea-fide.
We
We could not perceive that they had any arms, which we Ma7/^ immediately interpreted into a fign of a peaceable difpofition.   In a few minutes we faw them launch a canoe, in which two men came of! towards us.   They were along fide in a fhort time, having paddled very brifkly, and immediately called out for a rope, naming it by the fame word as the Taheitians.   We had no fooner thrown them the rope, than they tied a great duller of ripe bananas to it, making figns for us to haul it up.   The fudden emotions of joy in every countenance, at the fight of this fruir, are fcarcely to be defcribed ; they can only be felt in their full extent by people in the fame wretched fituation with ourfelves at that time.   At leaft fifty perfons endeavoured to begin a converfation with the people in the canoe, who being addreffed by fo many at once, could not anfvvcr one of them.   Captain Cook fent for fome ribbands, to which, he tied fome medals and beads, and lowered them down in  return  for their prefent.   They  feemed to admire them much, but haftened afthore with them immediately. In dropping aftern, they fattened a fmall piece of cloth to a fiflring-line which we towed after us ; it was immediately hauled up, and appeared to be made of the fame bark as the Taheitian cloth, and coloured yellow.    From a few words which they pronounced, we concluded their language to be a dialed: of the Taheitian, which we had now found in both extremities of the South Sea.   Their whole appearance
ance confirmed us in this opinion, and proved them iflued from the fame Rock. They were of a middle Rature, but rather thin ; their features rcfcmblcd thofe of the Taheitians, but were lefs agreeable : one of them had a beard, which was cut to the length of about half an inch j the other was a youth of about feventccn. They had punctures of the fame nature with thofe ufed by the natives of the Society and Friendly Iflands and of New Zeeland ; but their whole body, which was perfectly naked, was marked with them. The greateR Angularity which we obferved about them was the fize of their ears, of which the lap or extremity was ftrctched out fo as almoft to reft on the fhoulder, and pierced by a very large hole, through which four or five fingers might be thruft with eafe. This circumftance entirely agreed with the defcription which the fcrjeant-major of Rogge-wein's fhip gives of thefe people*. Their canoe was another curiofity, being patched up of many pieces, each of which was not more than four or five inches wide, and two or three feet long. Its length might be about ten or twelve feet, its head and ftern were raifed confiderably, but its middle was very low. It had an outrigger or balancer made of three flendcr poles, and each òf the men had a paddle, of which the blade was likewife compofed of feveral pieces.   This defcription alfo exactly correfponds with the
* Sec Mr. Dalrymple's Hiftorical Collection, vol. ii. p. 90, 94 , or Hifloirc <3e l'E.xpeditìon de Trois Vaiflèaux, tome i. p. J33, a la Huye j739-
Dutch
Dutch account of Roggewein's voyage, printed at Dort in ^JJ*^ 1728*; and fufRciently proved that the ifland is very deftitute of wood, though the contrary is afcertained in the ferjeant-major's relation of that voyage f.
Though we ftruck foundings oppofite the place from whence this canoe put off, yet in hopes of finding a better place of anchorage, we ran along the coafl of the ifland, till we came in fight of its northern extremity, which we had already feen the day before from the other fide. But being difappointed in our expectation, we put about with a view to return to the place which we had left. A great number of black pillars flood along the fhore, many of which were elevated on platforms confiding of feveral ranges of flone. We could now diftinguifli fomething re-fembling a human head and fhoulders towards their upper end ; but the lower part appeared to be a rude flone, without being carved into a refemblance of the human fhape. Sometimes we perceived two, fometimes four, and even five together in a row; but fome were likewife placed by themfelves. Wc faw but few plantations towards the north end, the land being much more bluff or fteep there, than about the middle of the ifland, and we could eafily perceive that there was not a tree upon the whole ifland, which exceeded the height of ten feer.
* See Mr. Dalrymple's Collection, vol. II. pag. nr. f Ibid. vol. II. p. 95 ; or Hiftoire, &c. vol. I. p. 138.
In
In the afternoon we hoifled out a boat, and the mafter went towards the fhore to take foundings in the road, from Whence the canoe had come off to us.   As foon as the natives perceived our boat on the water, they aflèmbled along fliorc, near the place to which our people feemed to direct their courfe.   Among a croud of naked men, we faw fome who feemed to be dreffed in a bright cloth of a yellow, or  rather orange colour,   from   whence we fufpected that they were their principal people,    We now likewife began to difcern their houfes, which feemed to be extremely low and long, highefl in the middle, and floping down towards both extremities.   They much refembled a canoe turned with the keel or bottom upwards.    In  the middle there feemed to be a fmall entrance or door, which was fo low, that a man of a common fize mud floop to get in. Towards evening we let go our anchor in about forty fathom, gravelly bottom off the S. W. part of the iiland. The mailer returned prefently after, and brought one of the natives in the boat with him.   This bold fellow had jumped into the boat without any ceremony or invitation, while it was clofe to the fhore, and exprcfjy defired to be brought on board.    He was of the middle fize, about five feet eight inches high, and remarkably hairy on the breaft and all over the body.    His colour was a chefnut brown, his beard flrong, but clipped fhort, and of a black colour, as was alfo the hair of his head, which was likewife cut
fhort.
fliort.   Llis ears were very long, almoft hanging on his M2?& moulders, and his legs punctured in compartments after a tafte which we had obferved no where elfe.   He had only a belt round his middle, from whence a kind of net-work defcended before, too thin to conceal any thing from the fight.   A firing was tied about his neck, and a flat bone, fomething fhaped like a tongue, and about five inches long, was fattened to it, and hung down on the breaft.   This, he told us, was a porpoife's bone (cevee toharra), exprefling it exactly by the fame words which a Taheitian would have made ufe of.   To explain himfelf better, he alfo called it eevec-eeka, which we well undcrftood to fignify the bone of a fifh *,   He was no fooner feated in the boat, than he complained of being cold by fhivering, and making various geflures of a very  intelligible nature.    Mr.  Gilbert, the mailer, therefore gave him a jacket, and put a hat on his head, and in that drefs he appeared upon deck.   The captain and palfengers prefented him with nails, medals, and firings of beads, the laft of which, he defired to have tied round his head.   At the beginning he fhewed fome marks of fear or diffidence, afking whether we fhould kill him as an enemy (matte-toa?)  but upon being affurcd of good treatment and friendfhip on our part, he feemed perfectly fecure and unconcerned, and talked of nothing but dancing
* Eeya at Taheitee, and eeka at New Zeeland and the Friendly Ifles mean a fifh.
Vol. I. 4 C (hcevay
(heeva). It was with fome difficulty that wc underflood him at firft j but having enquired for the names by which he diftinguifhed the parts of the body, we foon found them to be nearly the fame with thofe which are ufed in the Society Ifles. If wc mentioned a word which he did not comprehend, he repeated it feveral times with a look which ftrongly expreffed his ignorance of it. As night approached, he faid he wanted to go to fteep, and complained of cold. My father gave him a large Taheitee cloth of the thickeft fort, in which he wrapped himfelf, faying he found it comfortably warm. He was afterwards conducted into the mailer's cabin, where he lay down on a table, and flept very quietly the whole night. Manine, who had already expreffed his impatience to go on fhore, was much pleafed to find that the inhabitants fpoke a language fo fimilar to his own, and attempted to convcrfe with our new vifitor feveral times, but was interrupted by the queftions which many other perfons in the fhip put to him.
We dragged our anchor during night, and drove off the bank, fo that we were obliged to fet fail again, in order to recover our fituation. Immediately after breakfaft, captain Cook went afhore with the native, whofe name was Maroo-wahai, together with Manine, my father, Dr. Sparrman, and myfelf, though my feet and legs were ftill fwelled excefi-fively, and I was hardly able to walk. We found a fnug cove for boats, among a number of rocks which fheltered
the
the landing place from the mountainous fweli that tumbled liSt*. in upon the more. About a hundred, or a hundred and fifty natives were affembled on the fpot where we landed, almod all of them naked, fome having only a belt round the middle, from whence a fmall bit of cloth, fix or eight inches long, or a little net, hung down before. A very few of them had a cloak which reached to the knees, made of cloth, refcmbling that of Taheitee in the texture, and Hitched or quilted with thread to make it the more lading. Mod of thefe cloaks were painted yellow with the turmeric-root. The people did not make the lead unfriendly motion at our landing, but expreffed a prodigious dread of our fire arms, of which they feemed to know the deadly effects. We faw but few arms among them ; fome however had lances or fpears, made of thin ill-fhapen dicks, and pointed with a fharp triangular piece of a black glaffy lava {pumex vitreus, Linn.J commonly called Iceland agate. One of them had a fighting club, made of a thick piece of wood about three feet long, carved at one extremity ; and a few others had fhort wooden clubs, exactly refcmbling fome of the New Zeeland patoo-patoos, which are made of bone. We obferved fome who had European hats and caps, chequered cotton handkerchiefs, and ragged jackets of blue woollen-cloth, which were fo many indubitable tedimonics of the vifit which the Spaniards had made to this ifland in 1770. The general appearance of the natives feemed to argue a
4 C 2 great
great flerility of the country.   They were inferior in dature to the natives of the Society and Friendly Ifles, and to thofe of New Zeeland, there being not a fingle perfon amongfl them, who might be reckoned tall.   Their body was like-wife lean, and their face thinner than that of any people we had hitherto feen in the South Sea.   Their want of cloathing, and a great eagernefs to obtain our goods without offe ring any thing in return, feemed altogether to be fufRcient marks of poverty.   They were all prodigioufly punctured on every part of the body, the face in particular ; and their women, who were very fmall and (lender limbed, had likewife punctures on the face, which re fern bled the patches fometimes worn by our ladies.    The number of women in the croud did not exceed ten or twelve ; they were feldom fatisfied with their natural clear brown colour, but painted the whole face with a reddifh brown ruddle, over which they laid on the bright orange of the turmeric-root ; or ornamented themfelves with elegant ftreaks of white fhell-lime.   The art of painting is therefore not confined to thofe ladies who have the happinefs to imitate French fafhions.   The women were all d re Red in pieces of cloth, which appeared fcanty  when compared, to the Taheitian dreflcs.    Both fcxes had thin,   but  not favage features*, though the little flicker which their barren country offers, againft the fun-beams, had contracted their brows fometimes, and drawn the mufcles of the face up towards the
\
eye. Their nofes were not very broad, but rather Rat ^2-. between the eyes ; their lips flrong, though not fo thick as thofe of negroes ; and their hair black and curling, but always cut fhort, fo as not to exceed three inches. Their eyes were dark brown, and rather fmall, the white being lefs clear than in other nations of the South Seas. Their ears were remarkable for the great length of the lap, which frequently hung on the fhoulder, and was pierced with fo large a hole, that the extremity could be tucked up through, it. In order to bring it to this fize, they wore a leaf of a fugar cane, which is very elaliic, rolled up in it like a fcroll ; by which means it was always on the ilretch. The violent aft,ion of the fan upon their heads has forced them to contrive various coverings for that part. Many of the men. wore a ring about two inches thick, ftrongly and curiouily plaited of grafs, and fitting clofe round the head. This-was covered with great quantities of the long black feathers which decorate the neck of the man of war bird. Others-had huge bufhy caps of brown gulls feathers, which were almoft as large as the full-bottomed wigs of European lawyers ; and Rill others wore a fimple hoop of wood, round? which a number of the long white feathers of a gannctr hung nodding, and waved in the wind. The women wore a great wide cap, made of very neat mat-work ; it was-pointed forwards, formed a ridge along the top, and two large lobes behind on each fide, which we found extremely
cooling;
mt77ch cooling for the head. Mr. Hodges drew the figure of a woman with this cap on, and of a man with one of the other head drefies ; both are extremely charaeteriftic of the nation, and have been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. The only ornaments which we faw au.ong them, were the flat pieces of bone in the fhape of a tongue, or like a laurel leaf, which both fexes wore hanging on their brcaft, together with fome necklaces and car-jewels made of fhells.
After flaying among the natives for fome time on the beach, we began to walk into the country. The whole ground was covered with rocks and Rones of all fizes, which feemed to have been expofed to a great fire, where they had acquired a black colour and porous appearance. Two or three fhrivcllcd fpecies of grafTes grew up among thefc flones, and in a flight degree foftened the defolate appearance of the country. About fifteen yards from the # landing-place we faw a perpendicular wall of fquare hewn Rones, about a foot and a half or two feet long, and one foot broad. Its greatefl height was about feven tor eight feet, but it gradually floped on both fides, and its length might be about twenty yards. A remarkable circumflance was the junction of thefe flones, which were laid after the moft excellent rules of art, fitting in fuch a manner as to make a durable piece of architecture. The flone itfelf of which they are cut is not of great hardnefs, being a black-
ifli
ifli brown cavernous and brittle (tony lava. The ground M£ rofe from the water's fide upwards ; fo that another wall, parallel to the firft, about twelve yards from it and facing the country, was not above two or three feet high. The whole area between the two walls was filled up with foil and covered with grafs. About fifty yards farther to the fouth there was another elevated area, of which the furface was paved with fquare ftones exactly fimilar to thofe which formed the walls. In the midft of this area, there was a pillar confuting of a fingle flone, which reprefented a human figure to the waift, about twenty feet high, and upwards of five feet wide. The workmanfhip of this figure was rude, and fpoke the arts in their infancy. The eyes, nofe, and mouth were fcarcely marked on a lumpifh ilhfhapcd head j and the ears, which were exceffively long, quite in the fafhion of the country, were better executed than any other part, though a European artift would have been afhamcd of them. The neck was clumfy and fhort, and the moulders and arms very flightly reprefented. On the top of the head a huge round cylinder of flone was placed upright, being above five feet in diameter and in height. This cap, which refembled the head-drefs of fome Egyptian divinity, confuted of a different flone from the reft of the pillar, being of a more reddifh colour j and had a hole on each fide, as if it had been made round by turning. The cap together, with the head, made one half of the whole
pillar."
i7rc"h pillar which appeared above ground. We did not obferve that the natives paid any vvorlilip to thefc pillars, yet they feemed to hold them in fome kind of veneration, as they fometimes exprclTcd a diftike when we walked over the paved area or pcdellals, or examined the flones of which it confided.
A few of the natives accompanied us farther on into the country, where we had feen fome bulhes at a diftance, which we hoped would afford us fomething new. Our road was intolerably rugged, over heaps of volcanic flones, which rolled away under our feet, and againft which we continually hurt ourfelves. The natives, who were accuftomcd to this defolate ground, fkipped nimbly from flone to Itone without the lead difficulty. In our way we faw feveral black rats running about, which it feems are common to every ifland in the South Sea. Being arrived at the fhrub-bery which we had in view, we found it was nothing but a fmall plantation of the paper mulberry, of which here, as well as at Taheitce, they make their cloth. Its dems were from two to four feet high, and planted in rows, among very large rocks, where the rains had wafhed a little foil together. In the neighbourhood of thefe we faw fome bullies of the hibifws papulneus, Linn, which is common alfo in the Society Hies, where it is one of the numerous plants made ufe of to dye yellow ; and likewife a mimofa, which is the only fhrub that affords the natives dicks for
their
their clubs and pattoo-pattoos, and wood fufficient to patch mÀuc4h. up a canoe.
We found the face of the country more barren and ruinous the farther we advanced. The fmall number of inhabitants, who met us at the landing-place, feemed to have been the bulk of the nation, fince we met rio other people on our walk ; and yet for thefc few we did not fee above ten or twelve huts, though the view commanded a great part of the ifland. One of the fightlieft of thefe was fituated on a little hillock, about half a mile from the fea, which we afcended. Its conflrucìion was fuch as evinced the poverty and wretched condition of its owners. The foundation confided of Rones about a foot long, laid level with the fur face, in two curve lines, converging at the extremities. Thefc lines were about fix feet afunder in the middle, but not above one foot at the ends. In every Rone of this foundation we obferved one or two holes, in each of which a dake was inferted. The middlemod Rakes were fix feet high, but the others gradually diminifhed to two feet. On the top the Rakes all converged, and were tied by firings to tranfverfe dicks, by which they were kept together. A kind of thatch, made of fmall dicks, and covered with a neat mat-work of fugar-cane leaves, leaned on each row of ftakes, forming a very fharp ridge or angle at the top, and reding firmly on the ground at the bottom. A bole was left on one fide, about eighteen inches or two
Vol. I. 4 D feet
feet high, over which the people had built a round projecting funnel to keep off the wet. We crept on all fours into this opening, and found the infide of the hut perfectly-naked and empty, there being not fo much as a wifp of Rraw to lie down upon. We could not Hand upright in any part except juR in the middle, and the whole place appeared dark and difmal. The natives told us they palled the night in thefe huts, and we eafily conceived their fituation to be uncomfortable, efpecially as We faw fo very few of them, that they muft be crammed full, unlefs the generality of the people lie in the open air, and leave thefe wretched dwellings to their chiefs, or make ufe of them only in bad weather.
Befides thefe huts, we obferved fome heaps of ftones piled up into little hillocks, which had one fteep perpendicular fide, where a hole went under ground. The fpace within could be but very fmall, and yet it is probable that thefe cavities likewife ferved to give fhelter to the people during night. They may, however, communicate with natural caverns, which are very common in the lava currents of volcanic countries. Such caverns are very frequent in Iceland, famous for having been the dwelling-places of the ancient inhabitants. Mr. Ferber, the firft mineralogica! hiftorian of Vefuvius, has noticed fuch a fubterraneous hole in one of the modern lavas of that mountain.   We fhould
have
have been glad to have afcertained this circumftance, but the natives always denied us admittance into thefe places.
A plantation of fugar-cancs and one of bananas adjoined to the houfe we had vifited, and both were in excellent order, confidering the Rony quality of the ground. The bananas were all growing in holes one foot deep, which we fuppofed to be contrived for collecting the rain, and pre-ferving it far a longer time about the plant.    The fugar-canes were about nine or ten feet high, even in this parched country, and contained a very fweet juice, which the inhabitants prefented to us very frequently, and particularly whenever we ahked for fomething to drink.   We concluded from thence that they had no water on the ifland j but coming back to the landing-place we met captain Cook, whom the natives had conducted to a well very clofe to the fea, which was cut deep into the rock, but full of impurities.    When our people had cleared it, they found the water in it rather brackifh, but the natives drank of it with much feeming fatisfaction.
Captain Cook had not been very fortunate in trading with the people. They feemed indeed to be fo deftitute as to have no provifions to fpare. A few matted bafkets full of fweet potatoes, fome fugar-canes, bunches of bananas, and two or three fmall fowls ready drciTcd, were the whole purchafe which he had made for a few iron tools, and fome Taheitee cloth.   He had prefented the people with
4 D z beads,
beads, but they always threw them away with contempt, as far as ever they could. Whatever elfe they faw about us, they were defirous of poReffing, though they had nothing to give in return. Their number was now de-crcafed nearly to one half, many of them having probably gone home to their dinners j however, the number of women was always remarkably fmall in proportion to the men, there being not above twelve or fifteen at our fuR landing, and about fix or feven when we embarked again. They were neither referved nor chafle, and for the trifling consideration of a fmall piece of cloth, fome of our failors obtained the gratification of their defires. Their features were mild enough, and the large pointed cap gave them the air of profeffed wantons.
We returned on board the fhip before noon, and found it at anchor, though we had left it under fail. The frefh fruits and roots which we brought on board, were immediately diftributed as far as they would go, and proved a moft feafonable refrefhment to our ftck. We tafted the fowls, which feemed to have been dreffed under-ground, by means of hot flones being wrapped up in green leaves, in the manner practifed amongfl: all the nations of the South Sea, whom we had hitherto vifited. The potatoes were of a gold-yellow colour, and as fweet as carrots, therefore not equally palatable to us all ; however they were extremely nourifhing, and very antifcorbutic.   The juices of
this,.
this, and all the other vegetables on this iiland, feemed to have been concentrated by the drynefs of the foil. Their bananas were reckoned very delicious in their kind, by thofe who were fond of this fruit, and their fugar-cancs were fweeter than any we had tafted at Taheitee.
In the afternoon wc returned on more again, and an officer went with another boat to fill water at the well. We found but few natives near the landing-place, and among them was one, who appeared to have fome little authority, and readily accompanied the captain wherever he went. He was not fo timorous as the refi of his countrymen, but walked boldly along with us, whilft the others were alarmed at the leaft motion which appeared unufual to them. This difpofition, however, did not prevent them from picking our pockets, or ftealing any thing which fuited them. We had not been half an hour on fhore, when one of them came behind Manine, and very nimbly fnatching a black cap from his head, ran off with the greatefl velocity over the heaps of rugged flones, where it was impoflible to follow him. Manine was fo furprifed,. that it was fome time before he could find words to complain to the captain ; and when he did it, the thief was already at a great diftance. About the fame time, as Mr. Hodges was fitting on a little eminence, and fketching a view of the country, one of the natives ran off with his hat. in the fame manner.   Mr. Wales was (landing by him
withi
with a mufket in his hand, but very juRly reflected, that fo flight a crime did not deferve the punifhrnent of a leaden bullet.
In our walk along the fea-fhore, we difcovered a few Ralks of the fame fpecies of celery which is plentiful on the beaches of New Zeeland, and we alfo found two other little plants common to that country. Whether thefe plants originally exifted on the ifland, or fprung up from feeds, which the current of the fea, or birds by their plumage might tranfport from the oppofite fide of the ocean, I cannot venture to determine. We likewife met with a plantation of yams (diofcorea aiata, Linn.J which in fo poor a flora as that of Eafter Ifland was a great addition. The great cor-refpondence in the features,  cuftoms, and languages of
thefe people, to thofe of other natives of the South Sea iflands, gave us fome room to hope for fuch domeftic animals among them, as we had obferved at Taheitee or New Zeeland. But notwithflanding the moft diligent fearch, we never met with any other than common fowls, which were of a very fmall breed, and had a dull plumage. It is true we obferved alfo two or three noddies, which were fo tame as to fettle on the moulders of the natives, but from thefe individuals we could not conclude, that they kept a regular breed of them.
About fun-fet we left the watering-place, and walked to ;jbc cove where our boat lay at a grapnel.   In our way we
paffed
paiTcd over the area on which the fingle pillar before-mentioned was placed,   A few natives who Rill accompanied us, made figns that we mould defcend, and walk in the grafs at the foot of the pedeRal j but feeing that we did not care to underftand their geftures, they made no other attempt to oppofe our progrefs.   We put fome queftions to the moR intelligent perfons among them, concerning the nature of thefe flones, and from what we could underftand, we concluded that they were monuments erected to the memory of fome of their areekees, or kings.    This led us to believe that the pedeftal was perhaps to be confidered as a burying-place, and on looking carefully round it, we found a number of human bones, which confirmed our conjecture.   The length of thefe bones was exactly fuch as might be expected in perfons of a middle ftature, and a thigh-bone which we meafured, exactly correfponded with that of a perfon about five feet nine inches high.   To the weftward of the cove, there was a range of three pillars, ftanding on a very large elevated area or pedeftal. This range the natives diftinguifhed by the name of hanga-roa, and the fingle pillar they called obeena.    About ten or twelve people were featcd at a little diftance from the laft, round a fmall fire, over which they had roafted a few potatoes* Thefe ferved for their fupper, and they offered us fome of them as we paffed by.   We were much furprifed with this inftance of hofpitality in fopoor a country, efpecially wfien^
we compared it to the cuftoms of civilized nations, who have almoft entirely laid afide all tender feelings for the wants of their fellow-creatures. At the fame time we were very glad to be convinced, that the conjectures of the Dutch concerning the fires which they faw on this ifland, were ill-founded, as we did not fee the leaft reafon to fuppofe, that they were lighted for religious purpofes. We now embarked with a fmall quantity of potatoes, and with about fix or feven common plants which we had gathered, and returned on board. Thofe only who were ill of the fcurvy, reaped fome benefit from their vifit to the fhore. I who went out in the morning with my legs exceftively fwelled, and fo tender that I could hardly ftand upon them, returned on board much better ; the fwclling was fomething reduced, and my pains at leaft were gone. I could not attribute this fudden change to any thing elfc, than the exercife I had taken on fhore, and perhaps to thofe falutary antifcorbutic effluvia of the land, which it is faid, are alone fufficient to recover thofe, who have contracted the fcurvy on a long cruize at fea.
Early the next morning, captain Cook appointed a party of marines and failors, under the command of lieutenants Pickerfgill and Edgecumbe, to reconnoitre the interior parts of the country, in order to be convinced if poffible, whether any other part was better cultivated, or more clofely inhabited than that which wc had hitherto feen.    Mr. Wales,
Mr.
Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, and my father aflbciated with them, fo that the whole party confined of twenty-feven men.
After breakfaft I accompanied captain Cook and feveral officers albore, where we found about two hundred inhabitants affembled, amongft whom were fourteen or fifteen women, and very few children.    It was impoflible for us to guefs at the caufe of this difproportion in the number of the different fcxes j but as all the women wc faw were very liberal of their favours, I conjectured at that time, that the married and the modeft, who might be fuppofed to form the greater part, did not care to come near us, or were forced by the men to flay at their dwellings in the remote parts of the ifland. Thofe few who appeared were the moft lafcivious of their fex, that perhaps have ever been noticed in any country, and fhame feemed to be entirely unknown to them ; our failors likewife difclaimed all acquaintance with modefty, for nothing but the fhadow of the gigantic monument fcrcened them from the fun.
Mr, Patton, lieutenant Clerkc, and myfelf left the fea-fidc, where the concourfe was greatefl, and took a walk into the country. The heat of the fun was very violent, the beams being reverberated from the broken ground, and there was not a fingle tree to give us fheher. My companions had taken their fowling-pieces in hopes of meeting with fome birds ; but they were greatly difappointed, there Vol. I. 4 E being
being probably no other land-birds on the iiland than the common fowl, which were tame and extremely fcarce. We followed one of the paths which the natives had made, till we came to a cultivated fpot, confining of feveral fields planted with fweet potatoes, yams, and eddoes, together with a fpecies of night-fliade, which is made ufe of at Taheitee and the neighbouring iflands as a vulnerary remedy, (folanum nigrum?) and may, for ought I know, be cultivated here for the fame purpofe. The grafs, which commonly fprings up among the flones on the uncultivated foil, was here carefully plucked up, and fpreacl over the whole plantation as a manure, or perhaps to prefcrve it in fome meafure from the parching beams of the fun. It fhould feem from thefe circumfiances that the natives are not altogether ignorant of rural ceconomy, and till the ground at a great expence of time and labour. At a little diftance from thefe fields we met with two huts, confinici:-ed exactly like that which I have mentioned page 569, but much fmaller. The entrance was flopped up with a great quantity of fmall brufhwood, and we at firfl imagined that we heaid the voices of women within, but after liftening, for fome time we heard nothing farther to confirm us in; this belief. We rambled from thence to the top of a hillock covered with fhrubberies, which we found to confift of nothing but a fpecies of mimofa, that fcarcely attained the. height of eight feet, and afforded us very little fhelter from
the
-the fun. Here we relied a while, and then defcended by a different route into another fet of fields, which were treated in the fame manner as the reft. None of them had any fort of cnclofures, though the hiftorians of Rogge-wein's voyage, who feem to have confulted fancy more than truth, make mention of them. The encreafing heat of the day had entirely exhaufted us, when wc had flill a confiderable way to make down to the fea-fide. Fortunate* ly we paffed by a native who was at work, gathering potatoes in one of the fields. We complained of great thirft to him, upon which, though he was on old man, he immediately ran to a large plantation of fugar-canes, and brought us a great load of the beft and juicieft on his back. We made him fome prefents in return for them, cut them into walking-flicks, and, as we went along, gradually peeled and fucked them, finding their juice extremely refrefhing.
At our return to the landing-place we found captain Cook ftill occupied in trading with the inhabitants, who brought him fome fowls ready dreffed, and fome matted bafkets full of fweet potatoes, but fometimes deceived him by filling the baiket with ftones, and only laying a few potatoes at the top. The moft valuable article of trade on our part were empty coco-nut fhells, which we had received at the Society and Friendly Iflands ; but they were not current, unlefs the hole in them was very fmall, or un-lefs they had a cover.   The Taheitian and European cloths
4 E 2 were
were valued in the next degree according to the fize of the pieces ; and iron-ware bore an inferior price. The greatefl part of the natives who traded with us inftantly ran off with the cloth, nut-fhell, or the nail which had been given in exchange for their potatoes, as if they were apprehenfive that we might repent of our bargain, even though they dealt honeflly with us. Some among them were bold enough to run off with what they had received, as the price of their provifions, before they had delivered up the goods for which we had bargained. From fuch circumftances the deplorable condition of the natives became more and more confpi-cuous. The fcarcity of cloth among them was extremely great, moft of the people being forced to go naked ; but this did not prevent their felling what little cloth they had in
exchange for that of Taheitee. The defire of poffefling this cloth prompted them to expofe to fale feveral articles which perhaps they would not have parted with fo eafily under other circumftances. Among thefe were their different caps or head-dreffes, their necklaces, ornaments for the car, and feveral human figures, made of narrow pieces of wood about eighteen inches or two feet long, and wrought in a much neater and more proportionate manner than we could have expected, after feeing the rude fculpture of the flames. They were made to reprefent perfons of both fexes ; the features were not very pleafing, and the whole figure was much too long to be natural j however, there was fomcthing cha-
racteriflic
racteriftic in them, which (hewed a tafle for the arts. The wood of which they were made was finely polifhed, clofe-grained, and of a dark-brown, like that of the cafuarina. But as we had not yet feen this tree growing here, we eagcr-lv expected the return of our party, hoping they would make fome difcoveries to explain this circumftancc. Manine was moft pleafed with thefe carved human figures, the workman of which much excelled thofe of the e Tees in his country, and he purchafed feveral of them, afturing us they would be greatly valued at Taheitee.   As he took great pains to collect thefe curiofities, he once met with a figure of a woman's hand, carved of a yellowifh wood, nearly of the natural fize.   Upon examination, its fingers were all bent upwards, as they are in the action of dancing at Taheitee, and its nails were reprefented very long, extending at leaft three fourths of an inch beyond the fingers' end. The wood of which it was made was the rare perfume-wood of Taheitee, with the chips of which they communicate fragrance to their oils. Wc had neither feen this wood growing, nor obferved the cuftom of wearing long nails at this ifland, and therefore were at a lofs to conceive how this piece of wcll-cxccuted carving could be met with there;, we hoped, however, to unravel this circumftance alfo at the return of our party.   Mahine afterwards prefented this piece to my father, who has in his turn made a prefent of it to the Britifli Mufeum.   Mahine was likewife very eager
to
to collect as many feathered caps as he could meet with, efpecially thofe which had the feathers of a man of war bird, that bird being very fcarce about Taheitce, and much valued on account of its glofly black colour.
Whilft captain Cook continued in the cove, another trade for potatoes was carried on at the watering-place. Here the defire of poffcfling our goods, made fome of the natives guilty of a crime againft their own countryman. A field of fweet potatoes was fituated clofe to the well, and a confiderable number of people of different ages and fizes, bulled themfelves in digging them up, and bringing them for fale to our people. They had carried on this occupa -tion for fome hours, when another native arrived, who was in a vehement paflion with them, and drove them all away, remaining alone to dig the roots up himfelf. He was the owner of the field, whom the reft had robbed of the fruits of his labour, finding an eafy method to difpofc of their ftolen goods. It is not to be doubted that thefc offences againft the laws of civil fociety, arc fometimes committed even at the Society Ifles, becaufe the inhabitants have often told us, that they inflicted a capital punifhment upon fuch offenders ; but we never faw any inftances of it there. On this occafion at Eaflcr Ifland, we did not obferve that they annexed any penalty to the crime, though we faw it committed. Perhaps this is owing to the different degree of civilization of thofe two cogencric tribes.
We
We went on board at noon, where wc dined on fome fowls and potatoes, which we found delicious after the fatigues of the morning. We obferved a few natives on board, who had ventured to fwim off, though the fhip lay about three quarters of a mile from the fhore. They expreffed the moll unbounded admiration at every thing they faw, and every one of them meafured the whole length of the veffel from head to flern, with his extended arms ; fuch a great quantity of timber of fo flupendous a fize, being altogether incomprehenfible to people whofe canoes were patched of many fmall bits of wood. Among them was one woman, who had arrived on board in the fame manner, and carried on a particular trame of her own. She vifited feveral of the inferior officers, and then addreffed hcrfelf to the failors, emulating the famous exploits of Meffalina *. A few Englifh rags, and fome pieces of Taheitee cloth, were the fpoils which flic carried away with her, being fetched off by a man in the patched canoe, which was perhaps the only one in the ifland. Another of her country-women had vifited our fhip the day before, and been equally unbounded in her revels. It remained a doubt with us, whether we fhould moft admire their fuccefs among a fickly crew, exhaufted by the long continuance of a noxious diet, or their own fpirit and infatiate temper.
* See Plin. Hift, Nat. lib, x. c. 63. Tacit. Annal. lib. xi, Juvenal. Sat. vi. 129. >'    ■■»laflata viris, nec fatiata recefllt.
In,
;, In the afternoon we returned to the more again, and I walked on the hills to the fouthward, which rofe with a very cafy flope. Here I met with a large plantation of bananas, beyond which I found fome remains of a Rone wall, which was perhaps once the bafe of a flame. From thence I croRcd fome fields, where I faw a family of the natives at work, taking potatoes out of the ground. I
■ walked up to their hur, which was one of the fmalleft I had yet feen, and as they came about me, I fat down among them. Their whole number amounted to fix or feven perfons, one of whom was a woman, and two were young boys. They prefented me with fome fu gar-canes, and in return, I made them a prefent of a fmall piece of Taheitee cloth, which they immediately wrapped  about the head.
They did not exprefs that great curiofity which we had obferved among the people of the Society Ifles, but foon returned to their former occupation, in which all were employed without exception.   Some of them had hcaddreflès made of feathers, which they readily offered to exchange for pieces of cloth no bigger than a handkerchief. About the hut I perceived a few fowls,  the only ones which I had feen alive on the ifland.    Their behaviour towards me was wholly inoffenfivc, agreeably to the general character of the nations in the South Sea.   From the expreflions of the hiflorians of Roggewcin's voyage, it fhould feem, that the Dutch very wantonly fired upon the natives, who gave
no
no provocation, and killed a confiderable number of them, intimidating the reft to a great degree. It is probable, that the terror with which they looked upon the deftructive arms of Europeans at that time, and during the late vifit of the Spaniards, was revived among them at our appearance, and had an influence on their general timid behaviour towards us ; but it is not to be doubted, at the fame time, that there is a mildnefs, fellow-feeling, and good-nature in their difpofition, which naturally prompts them to treat their vifitors kindly, and even hofpitably, as far as their wretched country will permit.
I returned the fame way by which I came, and foon after went on board the fhip with captain Cook. About nine o'clock a mufket was fired on fhore, as a fignal for a boat, and the pinnace being fent off, returned foon after with our party, who had been to examine the ifland. My father being more fatigued than anybody elfe, on account of his long rheumatic complaint, was obliged to go to bed immediately ; but the other gentlemen fupped with us, on a few fowls which we had purchafed on fhore, and gave us fome account of their travels. As it will be moft agreeable to fee it in connection, I fhall here infert that which I have ex-traded from my father's journal.
" Immediately after landing, we walked directly inland or acrofs the country, under the higheft hill which lies towards the fouth, till we came to the other fide of the ifland. Vol. I. 4F About
About an hundred natives, and among them four or five women, accompanied us on our march, and fold us a quantity of potatoes and a few fowls, which we added to our Rock of provifions. We found the whole country flrewed with Rones of various fizes, of a cavernous or fpongy texture, and of a black, brown, or reddifh colour, which had indubitable marks of having been in a volcanic lire. The paths through this rugged ground are in fome meafure cleared of the Rones, but fo very narrow, that we were obliged to turn our toes inwards, at which the natives are perfectly expert, and to fet one foot exactly before the other. This mode of walking was exceflively fatiguing to us who were not ufed to it, fo that we continually hurt our feet or Rumbled.-    On both fides the ground was covered
with a thin perennial Jamaica-grafs, (pafpalumj which grew in bunches or tufts, and was fo flippery that we could not walk on it. We reached the eaR fide of the ifland, near a range of feven pillars or Ratues, of which only four remained Randing, and one of them had loft its cap. They flood on a common pedeftal, like thofe which we had feen on the other fide, and its flones were fquare and fitted exactly in the fame manner. Though the flone of which the ftatue itfelf is formed feems to be foft enough, being nothing but the red tufa which covers the whole iiland, yet it was incomprehcnfible to me how fuch great maffes could be formed by a fet of people among whom
we
wc faw no tools ; or railed and creeled by them without machinery. The general appellation of this range was Hanga Te bow ; hanga being the word which they prefix to every range. The names of the ftatues were KQ*-Tomoai\ Ko-Toimèeree, Ko-Hoo-oo, MorahèenaìOomarècvaì Weenàloo,lVeenapè.
" From hence we continued our march to the northward along the fea, having a precipice on our right. The ground was the fame ferrugineous tufa for a confiderable way, covered with fmall fragments ; but after fome time wc came to a fpot which was a fingle coherent rock or lump of black melted lava, which appeared to contain fome iron. There was no foil, grafs, or plant whatfoever upon ir. Beyond it wc paffed through a number of plantations of bananas, potatoes, and yams, and one of eddocs. The grafs between the Rones was plucked up and fpread on the land, to fcreen it from the fun, to keep the moifture of the rain in it, and at laft to manure ir.
m The natives continued to offer fome potatoes for fale ready dreffed, and, at a hut where wc halted, they fold us fome fifh. Some of them carried arms, which were no other than the thin flicks we had feen before, and which were headed with a black vitreous lava, carefully wrapped in a fmall piece of cloth. Only one of them had a battle-axe, refembling that of the New Zeelanders, though much fhorter.    It had a head carved on each fide, and a fmall
* Ko is the article, as at New Zetland and in the Friendly Ifles.
4 f 2 round
Mailc'h round portion of the black glafs above-mentioned inflead of eyes. They had likewife fome fmall crooked human figures made of wood, of which we could not learn the ufe or fignification ; we did not, however, think that our ignorance on this fubjecT intitlcd us to call them idols, which is too commonly the judgment paffed upon the works of art of unknown nations.
" After leaving this hut we ft ill advanced to the northward, without feeing any new objects. A man and a woman met us from fome neighbouring houfes, each with a large matted bag, of very neat workmanfhip, filled with hot potatoes, and placed themfelves by the fide of the path where we were to pafs. As we came on, the man prefented each of us with fome of the roots, and having diftributed a portion
to the whole party, he ran wTith amazing fwiftnefs to the head of our file to fhare out the refi, till he had given away the whole. He received a large piece of cloth from me, which was the only requital for an inflance of hofpitality, of which I never faw the like even at Taheitee. Soon after the natives told us their aree, or bareekee> or king was coming towards us. Several men came on before him, and diftributed fugar-canes to us all in fign of friendfhip, at the fame time pronouncing the word beeo*, which fignifies friend. We now faw the king Handing on a hill, and walked up to him, Mr. Pickerfgill and myfelf making him
* IToa at the Society Ifles j Wla at the Friendly Ifles.
fome
fome prefents. We afked for his name, which he told us i£S£*. was Ko-Tohretai, adding that, he was aree or king. We were defirous of knowing whether he was only the chief of a diftrict, or of the whole iiland j upon which he fpread out his arms, as it were to include the whole ifland, and faid JVaihu. To fhew that we underftood him, we laid our hands on his breaft, and, calling him by name, added his tide, king of Waihu, at which he expreffed very great fatisfac-tion, and converfed a great deal with his people on that fub-ject. He was a middle-aged man, rather tall ; his face and whole body ftrongly punctured. He wore a piece of cloth made of the mulberry bark, quilted with threads of grafs, and ftained yellow with turmerickj and on his head he had a cap of long fhining black feathers, which might be called a diadem. We did not perceive any great degree of homage or attention paid to him by the people ; and indeed in fo poor a country there feems to be nothing which he could havereferved for himfelf, without a manifell incroach-mcnt on the natural rights of mankind, which might have produced dangerous effects. When we wanted to continue our march he feemed to diflike it, and defired us to return» offering to accompany us j but feeing our officer determined to proceed at all events he defifted, and went with us.
" We marched to an elevated fpor, and flopped a little while to take fome refrefhmcnts, and to give Mr. Hodges time to draw fome of the monuments, near one of which
we
we found an entire fkeleton of a man. A good view of fome of thefe monuments is infcrted in captain Cook's account of this voyage. Our people fat down on the ground, and laid their bundles of provifion before them, whilR the offiers, and other gentlemen with myfelf, converfed with the natives. One of our failors, who carried my plant-bag, in which were a few nails, ckc. being lefs careful of his bundle than the reft, a native matched it up and ran off with it. None of us faw it, except lieutenant Edgecumb, who immediately fired his mufket, loaded with fmall fhot, at the thief, and thus gave the alarm to us all. The native being wounded threw down the bag, which our people recovered, but he fell foon after j his countrymen took him up, and fled to a little diflance, till we beckoned to them to return, which almoft all of them did. Though this was the only inftance of firing at a native during our flay at Eafter Ifland, yet it is to be lamented that Europeans too often affume the power of inflicting punifhments on people who are uttcily unacquainted with their laws.
u From this fpot wc continued our march a good way inland, and were conducted to a deep well, which appeared to have been formed by art, and contained good frefh water, though fome what troubled. We all drank heartily of ir, and then went on, paffing by feveral large ftatues, which had been overturned, till wc carne in fight of the two hummocks, near which we had perceived the greatefl number of
pillars
A VOYAGE
ROUND  TEI E
W 0 R L D.
pillars or flames, from the fhip, on the i 2th. We mounted on an eminence in the neighbourhood, from whence we beheld the fea on both fides of the ifland, acrofs a plain which we had likewife difcovered from the fhip at that time. Wc viewed the whole caftern coaft, and its numerous pillars, and were convinced that there was no bay or harbour on that fide of the ifland. With this information we returned back to a large ftatue, which the natives called Mangoioto, and in the lhade of which we dined. In its neighbourhood we met with another huge ftatue, which lay overturned \ it was twenty-feven feet long, and nine feet in dia-meter, exceeding in magnitude every other pillar which we had feen on the ifland.
" In returning, we flopped once more at the well, and quenched our thirft, which the raging heat of the fun, reverberated from barren rocks, had excited. From thence we directed our march fomething nearer the ridge of hills which run along the middle of the ifland, but found the path more rugged and fatiguing than ever, the country being flrewed with volcanic cinders, and defolate all round us, though we found many remaining proofs of its having been formerly cultivated. I now felt how much I had been weakened by the long continuance of the rheumatifm, which had crippled all my limbs, and was hardly able to keep up with the reft, though I had formerly, upon fimilar occafions, been indefatigable.   The natives feeing us ftrike
into'*
into a difficult path had all left us, except one man and a little boy. Finding that our officers with their party, went too much out of their way, by miftaking the direction of our fhip, I left them ; and with Dr. Sparrman, a failor, and the two natives, purfued the nearefl path, which the latter had plainly pointed out. The man feeing me very faint, offered me his hand, and walking on the loofe Rones by the fide of the path, with amazing dexterity fupported me for a confiderable way ; the little boy going before, and picking up the flones which obflrueTcd the path. By refling feveral times, we were at laft enabled to reach the fummit of the hill, from whence we faw the fea to the weft, and the fhip at anchor. The hill was covered with a flirubbery of the tnimofa, which grew here to the height of eight or nine
feet, and fome of whofe Items near the root, were about the thicknefs of a man's thigh. We found another well hereabouts, of which the water was infected with a putrid tafle, and the fmell of beparfulpburis, but of which we drank, notwithflanding its naufeoufnefs. The fun fet very foon after we had left this well ; fo that we continued our walk downwards, for more than two hours entirely in the dark, during which my Indian's afliftance was particularly valuable to me. I waited for Mr. Pickerfgill and the reft of the party, having gained near three miles upon them, and arrived fafely at the fea-fide with them, after walking at the loweft computation, at leaft five and twenty miles on the moft
detedable
deteftablc roads, where not a fmgle tree appeared to give us fheltcr from the fcorching fun. I rewarded my friendly conductors with all the Taheitce cloth, and iron ware, which I had about me, and arrived fafely on board with the party."
From this narrative it is evident, that the moft diligent enquiries on our part, have not been fullicient to throw a clear light on the furprifing objects which ft ruck our eyes in this ifland.   We may however, attempt to account for thofe gigantic monuments, of which great numbers exift in every part; for as they are fo difproportionate to the prefent ftrcngth of the nation, it is moft reafonable to look upon them as the remains of better times.   The niceft calculations which we could make, never brought the number of inhabitants in this ifland beyond feven hundred *, who, deftitute of tools, of flicker, and clothing, are obliged to fpend all their time in providing food to fupport their precarious cxiftence.    It is obvious that they are too much occupied with their wants, to think of forming ftatues, which would colt them ages to finifh, and require their united ftrcngth to erect.   Accordingly, wc did not fee a Angle inftrument among them on all our excurflons, which
* The Spaniards in the S. Lorenzo, and frigate Rofalia, make the population of Eafter Ifland amount to between two and three thoufand ; but it may be doubted whether they examined the interior country, as well as our people. See Mr. Dalrymplc's Letter to Dr. Hawkefworth,
Vor.. I. 4 G could
could have been of the leaft ufe in mafonry or fculpture. We neither met with any quarries, where they had recently dug the materials, nor with unfiniftied flatues which we might have confiderai as the work of the prefent race. It is therefore probable, that thefe people were formerly more numerous, more opulent and happy, when they could fpare fufficient time to flatter the vanity of their princes, by perpetuating their name by lafting monuments. The remains of plantations found on the fummits of the hills, give ftrength and fupport to this conjecture. It is not in our power to determine by what various accidents a nation fo flourifhing, could be reduced in number, and degraded to its prefent indigence. But we are well convinced that many caufes may produce this efFeei, and that the devaftation which a volcano might make, is alone fufficient to heap a load of miferies on a people confined to fo fmall a fpace. In facT, this ifland, which may perhaps, in remote ages, have been produced by a volcano, fince all its minerals are merely volcanic, has at leaft in all likelihood been deftroyed by its fire. All kinds of trees and plants, all domeftic animals, nay a great part of the nation itfelf may have perifhed in the dreadful convulfion of nature : hunger and mifery muft have been but too powerful enemies to thofe who efcaped the fire. We cannot well account for thofe little carved images which we faw among the natives, and the reprefentation of a dancing woman's
hand,
hand, which, as I have mentioned above, are made of wood, maIc4h. at prefent not to be met with upon the iiland.   The only idea which offers itfelf, is that they were made long ago, and have been f,    d by accident or predilection, at the general cataftropl.   which feems to have happened. All the women whom we faw in different parts of the ifland, did not amount to thirty, though our people  croffed it almoft from one end to the other, without feeing the leaft probability that the women had retired to any fecluded part.   If there are really no more than thirty or forty women, among fix or feven hundred men, the whole nation is in a fair way of becoming entirely extinct in a fhort fpace of time, unlefs all  our phyfical principles on the plurality of hufbands are erroneous.  The greater part of  the women whom we   faw  gave us no reafon to fuppofe  that  they were accuftomed  to a fingle partner j on the contrary, they feemed habitually to have arrived at the fpirit of Meffalina, or of Cleopatra.    But this difproponion is fuch a fingular phenomenon in human nature, that we cannot without difficulty give credit to it, and would willingly lay hold of any argument which, though incumbered with difficulties, might rcftore the proportion between the fexes.    It is true our party did not fee any valley or fecluded glen, to which the women might have confined themfelves during our ftay j but I muft remind the
4 G 2 reader
S96
A VOYAGE  ROUND  TEI E WORLD.
reader of thofe caverns mentioned before, to which the natives always refufed to admit us.   The caverns of Iceland are fpacious enough to contain feveral thoufand inhabitants; and nothing is more probable than that, in a fimilar volcanic country, fuch caverns may afford room for a few hundreds.    What reafons the Eafler Iflanders may have to be more jealous of their women than the Taheitians, we know not ; but we are acquainted with the outrageous and wanton behaviour of the failor, wherever he has fo great a fuperiority over the Indian, as the Dutch and Spaniards muff have had over the people of Eafter Ifland.   The principal objection againft this fuppofition is, however, the fmall number of children which we faw, there being no reafon to fe-clude them from our eyes, whatever might be thought neceflary with regard to the women.   In fhort, this matter muft remain unafcertained, and if, in fact, the number of women is inconfiderable, it muft have been diminifhed by fome extraordinary accident, which none but the natives could have explained ; but,, in all our doubts, our ignorance of their language prevented us from acquiring any infor-
The next morning we fent a boat afhore to take in fome water, and the wTeather continuing calm, another went off to trade with the natives in order to encreafe our little flock of potatoes.   One of the natives likewife plied between the
mation.
fhip
fhip and the fhore, bringing off potatoes and bananas in the patched canoe. In the mean while a fmart fliowcr falling on board the fhip, enabled our people to collect a quantity of frefh water in the awnings and fails of the fhip, which were fpread to catch it. Another boat went off to the fhore in the afternoon, but towards evening a faint breeze fpringing up, the fhip fired a gun, in confequence of which the boat came on board, and we failed N. W. by W. from Eaiter Ifland.
We had been greatly difappointed in the expectation which we had formed of this ifland, as a place of refrefli-ment. The only article of any importance was their fweet potatoes j but after we had regularly fhared out all we had purchafed, the common people had only a few fcanty meals of them. As to the bananas, yams, and fugar-canes which we had bought, they were in fuch inconfiderablc quantities, that they fcarce deferve to be mentioned. All the fowls which we had obtained, and which, in general, were of a very fmall breed, did not amount to fifty ; and even the quantity of water which we had filled was inconfiderable and ill tailed. However, this fmall fupply was fo feafon-able, that it preferved us from the too violent attacks of the fcurvy and bilious diforders, till we could reach a better place of refrefhment. Indeed, when I confidcr the wretched fituation of the inhabitants, I am furprifed that they
parted
m.ulcu. parted with a quantity of provifions to us, of which the cultivation muR have colt them great pains and labour. The barren refractory foil of their ifland, the fcarcity of do-meflic animals, and the want of boats and proper materials for fifhing, all concur to render their means of fubfiftence extremely difficult and precarious. Yet the defire of poflefling the new toys and curiofities which ftrangers bring among them, hurried them away, and prevented their reflecting on the urgency of their own moR natural and unavoidable wants. In this, as in numberlefs other circum-Ranees, they agree with the tribes who inhabit New Zee-land, the Friendly and the Society Iflands, and who feem to have had one common origin with them. Their features are very fimilar, fo that the general character may eafily be diftinguifhed. Their colour, a ycllowilh brown, moft like the hue of the New Zeelanders ; their art of puncturing, the ufe of the mulberry-bark for clothing, the predilection for red paint and red dreffes, the fhape and workmanfhip of their clubs, the mode of dreffing their victuals, all form a ftrong refemblance to the natives of the iflands above mentioned. We may add to thefe, the fimplicity of their languages, that of Eafter Ifland being a dialect which, in many refpects, refembles that of New Zee-land, efpecially in the harfhnefs of pronunciation and the ufe of gutturals, and yet, in other inftances, partakes of that
of
>
of Taheitee. The monarchical government likewife ftrcngth- mI"ck. ens the affinity between the Eafier Iflanders and the tropical tribes, its prerogatives being only varied according to the different degrees of fertility of the iflands, and the opulence or luxury of the people. Eafter Ifland, or, as the natives call it, Waihu, is fo very barren, that the whole number of plants growing upon it does not exceed twenty fpecies, of which far the greater part is cultivated*; though the fpace which the plantations occupy is inconfiderable, compared with that which lies wafte. The foil is altogether ftoney, and parched by the fun, and water is fo fcarce, that the inhabitants drink it out of wells which have a flrong admixture of brine ; nay, fome of our people really faw them drink of the fea-water when they were thirfty. Their habit of body muft, in fome meafure, be influenced by thefc circumftances ; they are meagre, and their mufcles hard and rigid ; they live very frugally, and, in general, go almoft wholly naked, only covering the head, which is the moft fenfible of heat, with feathered caps, and puncturing or daubing the reft with colours. Their ideas of decency are, of courfe, very different from thofe of nations who are accuftomed to clothing. They cut fhort their hair and beards
* The Spaniards mention white calabafhes, (pompions,) among the vegetable productions of this ifland ; but we did not fee any,—See Mr. Dalrymple's judU. cious letter to Dr. Hawkefworth.
from
from motives of cleanlinefs, like the people of Tonga-Tab-boo, but fortunately feemed to be lefs fubjeci: to leprous complaints.   It is eafy to conclude   that   the king of fuch a people cannot have great and confpicuous advantages over the commonalty, nor did our party obferve any thing of that kind.    The religion of the Earler Iflanders is Rill wholly unknown to us, becaufe abftract: ideas are not to be acquired in fo ihort a time as our Ray.   The ftatues, which are creeled in honour of their kings, have a great affinity to the wooden figures, called Tee, on the chief's ma-rais or burying-places at Taheitce ; but we could not pof-fibly confider them as idols, though Roggewein's people would pafs them for fuch upon us.    The fires which the Dutch interpret as facrifices, were only made ufe of by the natives to drefs their meals ; and though the Spaniards fuf-pecTed them to be a kind of fuperflition, they were, perhaps, equally miflaken, becaufe the fcarcity of fuel obliged the inhabitants to be careful of it, and to prevent their provifions being uncovered after they had once been put under ground with heated Rones.
We are unacquainted with the amufements of the people of Eafler Ifland, having never feen them engaged in any kind of diverfion, nor taken notice of a fmgle mufical in-ilrumcnt among them. They cannot, however, be entire Grangers to amufements, fince Maròo-wahai, who flept on
board,
board, talked a great deal of dancing, as foon as wc had quieted his fears with refpecl to the fafety of his perfon. The difpofition of thefe people is far from being warlike ; their numbers are too inconiiderablc, and their poverty too general, to create civil diflurbances amongft them. It is equally improbable that they have foreign wars, fince hitherto we know of no illand near enough to admit of an intercourfe between the inhabitants ; neither could we obtain any intelligence from thofe of Eafter Ifland upon the fubjeci:. This being premifed, it is extraordinary that they fhould have different kinds of offenfive weapons, and efpe-cially fuch as refemble thofe of the New Zeelanders ; and we muft add this circumftance to feveral others, which are inexplicable to us in their kind.
Upon the whole, fuppofing Eafter Ifland to have undergone a late misfortune from volcanic fires, its inhabitants are more to be pitied than any lefs civilized fociety, being acquainted with a number of conveniencics, comforts, and luxuries of life, which they formerly poffeffed, and of which the remembrance muft embitter the lofs. Mahine frequently lamented their unhappy fituation, and feemed to feel for them more than he had done for the New Zeelanders, becaufe he found them much more deftitute. He added another ftick to the bundle which compored his journal, and remembered Eafter Ifland with this obfervation, tata màita'iy vchennua èeno, that the people were good, but the ifland very
Vol. L 4 H bad j
mÀYck. bad ; whereas at New Zeeland he had found more fault with the natives than the country. His feelings were always warm from the heart, which education had filled with real philanthropy ; they were likewife jufl, in general, becaufe his fenfes were found and acute, and his undcr-ilanding, though uncultivated, was free from many prejudices.
END   OF   THE   FIRST VOLUME.
ERRATA   in   VOL. •!.
13.I. laft, for	Ribicra, read	Ribeira.
31. 1. i. [margin]	1778,	1771.
48. 1.4-	drying,	dying.
57. 1. 16.	vacaneuin,	fupervacaneum.
88. 1. 10.	at the Came,	at the Came time.
90. 1. antepenult,	as was,	as it was.
119. 1. 9.	Ferro,	Faroe.
17 i. I. 2 1.	Camily,	Camily.
174. I. 4. and 10.	muCquets,	mufkets.
176. 1. laft,	multipliciamini,	multipUcamini.
178. 1. 7.	quale»,	qualis. "
207. 1. 10.	geens,	greens.
115. 1. 8.	fcoop-net,	hoop-net.
253. I. 10.	O-Taheite,	O-Taheitee.
308. 1. 11.	Juan de Langara 1 y Huarte, *	Domingo Buenechea