VOYAGE ROUND THE w W R L D, I N His Britannic Majesty's Sloop, Resolution, commanded by dpt. James Cook, during the Years 1772, 3, 4, and 5. By G EO R G E F O R S T E R, F. R. S. Member of the Royal Academy of Madrid, and of the Society for promoting sQ^&k "X Natural Knowledge at Berlin. BlBLH)THEKy v o L. Mobills enim et inquieta mens homini data ellj nunqunm fe tenet: fpargitur, et cogitationes futu in onittia BOta atqUJ ignota dimittit; vaga et quietis impatiens, et novitatc reruir he-riifima. Smeca» london, printed for B. White, Fleet-Street; j. Rohson, Bond-Street; P. Elmsly, Strand; and C. Robinson, Pnter-noftcr-Row. MDCCLXXVII. CONTENTS. book n. Chap, V. Run from Eafter IJland to the Marqvjfis,—Stay in Madre dc Dios Harbour, on Waitahoo. Courfe from thence through the Low Iflands to Taheitec, p. I Chap. VI. An Account of ourfecond Vifit to the IJland ofO-Tahei-tee, s 1 Chap. VII. The fecond Stay at the Society I/lands, 114 Chap. VIH. Run from the Society to the Friendly Iflands, 159 book nr. Chap. I. An Account of our Stay at Mallicollo, and Difcovery of the New Hebrides, 199 CHAP. II • Account of our Stay at Tama, and Departure from the New Hebrides, 262 Chap. III. Difcovery of New Caledonia.—Account of our Stay there. —Range along the Coaft to our Departure.—Difcovery of Norfolk IJland.—Return to New Zeeland, 377 Chap. IV. Third and laji Stay at $ueen Charlotte's Sound in New Zeeland, 449 Chap, CONTENTS. Chap. V. The Courfefrom New Zeeland to Tierra del Fuego.—Stay at Chrijlmas Harbour, 481 Chap. VI. Stay at the New Tear's Iflands.—Difcovery of Lands to the Southward.—Return to the Cafe of Good Hope, 512 Chap. VII. Second Stay at the Capeof GoodHope.~Runfrom thence to the Iflands of St. Helena and Afcenfwn, 548 Chap. VIII. Run from from Afcenfion pafl the IJland of Fernando da Noronha, to the Acores.—Stay at Fayal.—Return to England, 579 ERRATA of the SECOND VOLUME. P. 40, T. 3. for mild read wild. 160. in the note, dele Dr, Hunter, in the Phil. Tranf. 443. in the note, jar Aix-^v, read AiXftfi gif, I, 5, accompanid accompanied. A \ VOYAGE ROUND THE W O R L D. BOOK 11 C H A P. V. Run from Eajler IJland to the Marguefas—Stay in Madre-de-Dhs bar-four on Waitaboo—Courfe from thence through the Low Iflands to Taheitee* TH E breeze with which we failed from Eafter Iiland ,77+. March. was fo gentle, that wc were flill in fight of it the T«u^»y *?• next day at noon, at the diflance of fifteen leagues. The weather was rather fultry, and captain Cook relapfcd into his former bilious diforder, by having exerted himfelf too much on more, during the violent heat of noon. All thofe who had been on the long excurfion acrofs the ifland, had their faces bliftered by the fun, and extremely painful in proportion as the ikin peeled off*. The fliort flay near the land, and the ufe of a few vegetables from thence, had greatly reflorcd to their health thofe who were afflicted with the Vol. II. B fcurvy mScm. fcurvy before ; and feveral, though excefTively weak, felt no inconvenience at prefent. It is true, the little fupply at Eafter Ifland fervcd only as a whet to our appetite, and made us all extremely eager in our wiflies of reaching the Marquefas of Mendoca, whither we now directed our courfe. Very fortunately for us the wind frefliened the next day, and continued fo for fome time, giving life to our hopes, and infpiring more chearfulnefs than we had known for fome months paft. In a few days, however, we were much alarmed to find feveral people fickening again, and particularly complaining of conftipations and bilious difordcrs, which are deadly in hot climates. Among thefe was our excellent furgeon himfelf, whofe illnefs gave us more pain than almofl any thing elfe. The mofl unlucky circumflance was, that the patients could not eat the potatoes which we had brought from the fhore, becaufe they were too flatulent for their weakened flomachs. Thuriday *4. A calm which happened on the 24th, our latitude being about 1 70 fouth, was very difagreeable to the fick, and brought fome of them very low. Captain Cook himfelf was obliged to keep his bed again, being afHictcd with fome alarming fymptoms. However the wind returned in the afternoon, and frefhening confiderably in a day or two, cooled the air very pleafantly. This weather was very fa-lutary to all the bilious patients ; fo that they appeared on deck. deck, and walked, or rather crawled about, though exceed-ingly emaciated. My father ordered his Taheitian dog, the only one which flill remained alive after our departure from the Friendly Iflands, to be killed; it was cut into quarters, which were fcrved up to captain Cook during feveral days, and gave him fome nourifliraent, as he could not venture to tafle the fhip's provifions. By fuch fmall helps we fucceeded in pre-fcrving a life upon which the fuccefs of the voyage in a great meafure depended. We daily faw Tropic birds and fliearwaters after leaving Eaflcr Ifland, and frightened many fhoals of flying fifh out of the water. Thefe fifh were remarkably numerous on the 27 th, when we faw none but fmall ones, the largefl not Saturday*?, exceeding the length of a finger, and the leaft fcarcely fo long as one of its joints. Our latitude that day, at noon, was 1 3 0 13' fouth. Since the calm on the 24th we had a fine fleady gale Aprils from the caflward, which fpecded our courfe prodigioufly. The weather in general was fercne, and the colour of the ocean a fine rich blue, bearing always a confiderable relation to that of the iky. Dolphins, bonitos, and (harks appeared from time to time, and various birds at war with flying fifhes enlivened the fecne. To add to our comfort, the heat of the fun became perfectly agreeable to us, being tempered by the rapid motion of the air, and permitted us B 2 to to walk about the decks with fome fatisfaction. Nothing lefs was wanting to keep up our fainting fpirits, and to ftrengthen the fick, who might be faid to feed entirely upon hope, having no refreshments to reflorc their wafted flrength. We had already confumcd all the vegetables which had been purchafcd at Eafter Ifland ; nothing therefore remained, but either to return to the loathed diet of faked meat, of which the juices were utterly deftroyed, by lying in pickle for three years, or to liarve on a fmall quantity of bread, if the ftomaeh could not digeft thofe grofs and unprofitable fibres. Wc were therefore unanimous in our wiflies of a fpeedy deliverance ; and in proportion as the breeze Slackened or encreafed, the thermometer of our ex*-peculations fluctuated from abject defpondence to the moll fanguine expectation. All our books which treated of Mcndaiia's Voyages were confulted j and fiace the vague cxpreflions, relative to the diftancc of the Marqucfas from Peru, gave us full fcope for conjecture, every day produced a new calculation of their longitude. For the fpace of five days wc fuccclTively paiTed over the different pofitions which our new geographers had allotted to thofe iflands, and overturned each new hypothefis, not without fome divcrfion to the reft, who either artfully concealed their own opinion, or candidly con felled that the data were too uncertain to bear a fuperftructure. During this courfe we enjoyed fome beautiful evenings, and particularly obfervcd the fky and clouds clouds tinged with different hues of green by the fetting fun, on the 3d of April. This colour has been obferved by Frezier before, and is in fact nothing extraordinary, especially if the air happens to be charged with vapours, which is frequently the cafe between the tropics. The fame day we had caught a fmall fucking fifh, adhering to a flying fifli, with which we had baited a hook: a proof that thefe little creatures are not always fixed to (harks. The fame day we faw a large fifh of the genus of rays, which is called a fca devil by fome authors. It perfectly refcmbled that which we had fecn in the Atlantic, on the Hi ft or September, 1772. (See vol. I. p. 47.) The number of terns, tropic, and man of war birds, encreafed around us almofl every day, as we ran to the weflward, and approached the iflands which we expected to find. At laft, on the 6th of April in the afternoon, we had fight of a fmall bluff ifland ; but the haze which involved it, and which thickened as we advanced, prevented our examining the nature of the land, and building any hopes of refreshment on its appearance. Quifos, who is fuppofed to have written the account of the voyage of the Spanish Adelentado (or captain-general) Don Alvaro Mcndaiia de Neyra, in the year 15575, gives a favourable account of the group of iflands difcovcrcd in that voyage, which were named the Iflas Marqucfas de Mendoca, in honour of the viceroy of Peru, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoca, marquis A?lti °f Canete, who had fet on foot that expedition. We had re-courfe to this account, in order to gain fome information relative to the land which now engrofTed all our attention. Thurfday 7. xhe next morning we Hood in-fhore, and though the weather Hill continued hazy, we foon diftinguifhed the different iflands which the Spaniards have called la Dominica, St. Pedro, and St. Cfariftina. We were convinced at the fame time, that the fmall bluff ifland which wc had fir ft fallen in with, had not been feen by Mendana ; and captain Cook gave it the name of Hood's Iiland, from the per-fon who firft difcovercd it. La Dominica, which lay ncarcft to us, was a high and mountainous iiland, of which the N. E. point was very deep and barren; but further to the north wc obferved fome vallics filled with trees, amongfl which we now and then difcovercd a hut. As the haze cleared away, we faw many craggy rocks like fpires, and feveral hollow fummits piled up in the centre of the iiland, which proved that volcanoes and earthquakes had been active there in changing the face of the country. All its eallern part is a prodigious flcep and almoft perpendicular wall, of a great height, which forms a fharp ridge, mattered into fpires and precipices. St. Pedro is a fmall ifland, of very moderate elevation, but did not appear either fertile or populous, St. Ch rift in a, the wcflermoft of all, had the mofl promifing appearance; and, though very high and [kep, yet had fcveral vallics, which widened towards wards the fea, and were covered with fine forefts to the fummits of the mountain. About three o'clock we entered the ftraits, between the fouth end of Dominica, and the N. E. part of St. Chriflina, which is above two miles wide. We obferved forne pleafant fpots on both iflands, between the clefts of the mountain ; but faw no plains, like thofe which fo greatly cmbellifh the Society Iflands. The more of St. Chriflina was, however, fufheient to revive all our fpirits, and infpired that chcerfulnefs which every fertile and plcafmg profpect gives to the weary mariner. We pafTed feveral little coves, where the white foaming furf tumbled in upon the beach. The two projecting points of every cove included a valley, filled with forefls and planta> tions, of a pleafing verdure. On every beach we faw fome inhabitants running about, or gazing at our fhip. Sometimes they launched their canoes, and attempted to come after us ; but a flrong breeze carried us fo fwiftly through the fmooth water, that we left them far behind. We found a harbour on the weft fide of the ifland, which looked fo tempting, that we eagerly wiflicd to come to an anchor y but juft as we were turning about, in order to run into it, a heavy fquall came over the high mountain with prodigious violence, and laid the fhip on her fide, fo that we fpriing our mizen-topmaft, and narrowly cfcaped being driven againft the fouthern point of the harbour. After we had trimmed our fails again, we tacked, and anchored abour about five o'clock in the entrance of the harbour. During the fquall, about fifteen canoes, putting off from different parts of the iiland, came near the fhip. Some were double, and contained fifteen men j others, on the contrary, were fmall, and had from three to feven men. As foon as we were at anchor, wc invited the natives, by every fign of friendship, and by addrefling them in the Tahcitian language, to come on board. This they did not venture 10 do ; but at firfl they brought their canoes clofe along-fule, and offered us fome pepper-roots, which were doubt-lei's figns of peace, as at the Society and Friendly Iflands. After wc had fattened thefc roots to the fhrouds, they fold us a few fifh in exchange for nails, and likewife fome excellent" large bread-fruit, perfectly ripe, at fight of which our whole Clips company exprcflcd the greatefl marks of Iay in their countenances. The natives about us were a well-made, handfome people, of a good yellowifh or tawny colour, but looked al-uioLt black, by being punctured over the whole body. They were all naked, having only a fmall piece of cloth, perfectly rcfembling that made by the people of Tab ci tec, round their vvaill ami loins. Their beards and hair were of a fine jetty black, and their language much nearer the Tahcitian, than any other dialect in the South Sea, with this difference, that they could not pronounce the r. Their canoes were thin, and formed of boards Sightly fewed together, gethcr, and their paddles were made like thofe of Taheitee, with a knob at the end. Wc continually enquired for hogs, and told them to bring us fome ; and towards night we had the fat is faction to fee a pig along-fide, which wc purchafed for a knife. As foon as it was dark, the canoes retired, according to the general cuftom of all the nations in the South Sea we had hitherto fccn, on whom the novelty of an European fhip cannot prevail to wake a fingle night. The vallics in our harbour were very full of trees, and every part anfwered the graphical defcription which the Spaniards have given, and by which we were well convinced that their harbour of Madre de Dios was the fame where wc had anchored *. Its fituation, deduced from agronomical obfervation, is in (f 55' S. latitude, and 139" 8 W. longitude. Wc faw many fires through the trees, at a great diilancc from the water, and concluded the country to be well inhabited. The next morning early we Friday had a full view of the land, clear of the clouds which reded on it in the evening. On the fouth fide rifes a peak, which is very craggy and inacceflible. All the north fide is a black, burnt hill, of which the rock is vaulted along the fea-fhorc, and the top clad to the fummit with a fhrubbcry of cafuarinas. hut the bottom of the harbour is filled up with a very high ridge, level at top, and refembling the * Sec Mr. Daliyniplc'i, Colle&ion, vol. I. p. 66. Vol. II. G Table- Table-mountain at the Cape of Good Hope. Several vallics, perfectly filled with trees, lead up from two beaches to the very fummit of the mountain, which appears exceilivcly fleep. Along its uppermofl edge we faw a row of flakes or pallifadoes, clofcly connected together, like a fortification, within which, by the help of our glaifcs, wc difcerncd fomething like huts. Thefc places wc fuppofed to be what the Spaniards have called intrenchments ; but they bore a great refemblancc to the hippas of the New Icelanders, which are commonly fitua'cd on high ridges, and fur-rounded with pallifadcs. The natives, encouraged by the trade which we had begun the evening before, came oil in fcveral canoes, foon after fun-rife, and brought great quantities of bread fiuir, which we bought for fmall nails. They likewife fold fome bananas, and traded very fair for fome time, but without venturing to come on board. However, after break fa ft, it appeared that their difpofition had but too much iimilaiity with that of the Tahcitians. Some of them began to deal difhoneflly with us, receiving the nail for which they had offered a bread-fruit, without delivering it in return. The captain, to intimidate them, fired a mufket over their heads. This had the defircd effect, and they immediately handed up the fruit for which we had bargained. Some others, after they had fold their goods, came on board to be gazed at, and to gaze. While captain tain Cook prepared to go into his boat with my father, one of thefe natives, finding the large iron ftanchion loofe, to which the man-ropes on the lhip's fide, by which we af-cendcd or defccndcd, were fattened, matched it up, leaped overboard with it, and, notwithflanding its weight, fwam with great agility to his canoe, where he fecured it. This hazardous enterprize being reported to captain Cook, who was jufl ftepping into the boar, he ordered a mufket to be fired over the native's head, whilfl he meant to come round the fhip, to recover the ftanchion. The mufket was fired, but the man took no notice of it, looking about him with great unconcern. The captain hearing it, ordered another to be fired, and put off from the fhip. The fecond fliot had no other effecT than the firft ; upon which an officer, who that moment came upon deck, matched up a mufket, and taking exact aim, fliot the man through the head. His companion in the fame canoe inflantly threw the iron into the fea, which had been the caufc of this unfortunate event. The captain in his boat came up, and faw the canoe full of blood, and the dead corfe lying in it. The other native baled the blood out into the fea, and then retired to the fhore with all the other canoes, and left us perfectly alone. The natives on the beach hauled the canoe through the furf, and carried the corfe up into the woods. Pre-fcntly after we heard drums beating, and fawT a confidcr-able number of the inhabitants aflemblcd on the beach, C i with with fpcars and clubs in their hands, which had a very unfriendly appearance, and rather feemed to threaten that wc had no farther refreshments to expect. We cannot but lament, that the time in which this man was killed, by a pcrfon who was ignorant of the nature of his offence, did not admit of any previous consideration* The fir ft difco-verers and conquerors of America have often, and very de-fervcdly, been ftigmatifed wiili cruelty, becaufe they treated the wretched nations of that continent, not as their brethren, but as irrational beads, whom it was lawful to (hoot for diverfion ; and yet, in our enlightened age, prejudice and raflmefs have often proved fatal to the inhabitants of the South Sea. Mahine burft into tears, when he faw one man killing another on fo trilling an occafion. Let his feelings put thofe civilized Europeans to the blufh, who have humanity fo often on their lips, and fo fcldoni in their hearts ! Captain Cook, knowing the weak condition of his crew, was unwilling to relinquish the hope of procuring refreshments at this ifland ; and therefore, after directing the fhip to be removed deeper into the harbour, fclcdted a party of marines and failors, and landed under the vaulted rocks to the northward, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, Mahine, my father, and myfelf. A great troop of the natives, confiding of more than a hundred men, received us on thefc rocks with fpcars and clubs in their hands, of which they did not attempt \ attempt to make any ufc. We approached them with de- jggj* mondrations of friendship, which they returned; and our firft requed was that they should fit down, to which they indantly agreed. We then endeavoured to fhew the bed fide of what had happened, and acquainted them that we had only fhot at one of their countrymen, becaufe he had made free with our property j that we were defirous of living as friends with them \ and that we only came to take in wood, water, and refreshments, for which we had nails, hatchets, and other curious articles to oiler in return. The natives were paciiied by our fpecious reafonings j they fccmcd to think their countryman had deferved his fate, and conducted us round the beach to a fine brook, where we eftablifhed our watercrs, and began to purchafe fome fruits, which were at firft brought down very fparingly. For greater fecurity, the marines were drawn up in a line, under arms, and our return to the water fecured. But we had no occafion for thefe precautions the people with whom we dealt were too honed to break a peace to which they had confented, and of too gentle a difpofition to. revenge the death of a man whom they could not entirely acquit. In a short time our trade went on more brifkly, and the natives came down with loads of plantanes, bananas, and bread-fruit from the hills, which they fold for a trifling confidcration of iron ware. Among Among the croud we faw no women, they having probably retired to the mountains on the flrfl alarm ; but there were fome men better armed and ornamented than the red, who fcemed to be their leaders. Thcv were all without cloathing, having nothing but a fmall piece of cloth to cover the loins. They were tall, and extremely well limbed ; not one of them unweildly or corpulent like a Tahcitian, nor meagre and fhrivelled like a native of Eafler Iiland. The punctuation which almofl entirely covered the men of a middle age, made it difficult to diftinguifli their elegance of form ; but among the youths, who were not yet marked or tattowed, it was cafy to difcovcr bcamics fin-Eularly flriking, and often without a blemifh, fuch as demanded the admiration of all beholders. Many of them might be placed near the famous models of antiquity, and would not fuifer in the comparison : Qualis aut Nireus fuit, aut aquofii Raptus ab Ida. Hon. The natural colour of thefc youths was not quite fo dark as that of the common people in the Society Iflcs; but the men appeared to be infinitely blacker, on account of the punctures which covered their whole body, from head to foot. Thefc punctures were difpofed with the utmofl regularity , fo that the marks on each leg, arm, and cheek, and and on the correfponding mufcles, were exactly fimilar. They never afTumed the determinate form of an animal or plant, but confided of a variety of blotches, fpirals, bars, chequers, and lines, which had a mod motley appearance. Their countenances were pieafing, open, and full of vivacity , their eyes were large and dark-coloured , their hair black, curled, and drong ; a few excepted, who had light-coloured or fandy hair. The beard however was thin in general, on account of the numerous fears of punctures which commonly covered that part of the face. The number of ornaments, in fome meafurc, might be faid to fup-ply the want of cloathing. On their heads many of them wore a kind of diadem this confided of a dat bandage wrought of coco-nut core, on the outfide of which feveral round pieces of mother of pearl, fome of them five inches in diameter, were fixed, covered in the middle with a plate of tortoife fhcll, perforated like fret-work. Several tufts of long, black, and gloffy cock's feathers formed the plumes to this head-drefs, which was really beautiful and noble in its kind. Some wore round coronets cf the fmall ligulated feathers of the man of war bird, and others a circle, from whence feveral ranges of twided drings of coco-nut core, about two inches long, cither of the natural colour, or dyed black, diverged round the head. In their cars they fomc-times placed two dat pieces of a light wood, of an oval fliape, about three inches long, covering the whole ear, and painted painted them white with lime. Their leaders wore a kind of gorget round the neck, or rather on the bread, it confided of fmall portions of a light wood, like cork, glued together with gum, in a femicircular form ; a quantity of fcarlet-beans (abrus prccatorius, Linn,J are glued all round it with the fame gum, forming a great number of rows, of the length of two or three inches. Thofe who were not pofTcded of this glaring ornament, at lead wore a firing round the neck, and fattened it to a piece of fhcll, which was cut and polifhed in the fhanc of a large tooth. They were alfo fond of having bunches of human hair tied on a Bring round their waid, arms, knees, and ancles. All thefe ornaments they freely parted with for a trifling coofideration, except the lad, which they valued very highly, though they were the ufual residence of many vermin. It is probable that thefc bunches of hair were worn in remembrance of their dead relations, and therefore looked upon with fome veneration ; or elfc they may be the fpoils of their enemies, worn as the honourable tcdimonics of victory. However a large nail, or fomething which druck their eyes, commonly got the better of their fcruples. After we had made thefc obfervations on the people who lurroundcd us, we left the beach, and rambled through the woods at a fhort didancc from captain Cook's flation, collecting feveral plants, of which wc had fecn the greatcd part at the Society Iflands. As wc did not care to advance far far into the country the firft day, we confined ourfelves to the low land, which bordered upon the beach, and which we found entirely uninhabited. However we met with a number of fquare compartments among the trees, laid out with great Hones, moflly of a regular fquare figure; which we afterwards leaunt, were the foundations of their houfes. It may be conjectured from thence, that thefe places have been abandoned,t on account of fome inconvenience of the ground ; or that they are only made ufe of at certain fea-fons. All this part was dcflitute of plantations, and covered with forcfl-trees, fome of which fecmed to be very-good timber. The natives did not attempt to (lop us, and left us to purfuc our walk entirely by ourfelves. A little hill, covered with long grafs up to our middle, and broken into a perpendicular wall to the fea, juts forward, and divides this beach from another to the fouthward. On the north fide of this hill wc found a fine fpring of clear water, in the very place where the Spanifli navigators have defcribed it, which gumcs out of the rock, and is collected in a little baton, from whence it flows into the fea. A brook runs down from the higher hills clofe to it; another more con-fidcrable defcends on the middle of the.beach, and fupplied us with water; and again another is to be met with in the northern corner. This ifland is therefore extremely well watered ; and the vegetation, as well as the inhabitants, evidently derive great benefit from it in this hot climate. Vol. II. 1) We Wc foon returned to the trading place with our acquifitionsa, and converfed with the natives, who had now fo far laid afule their diftrufl, as to part with their arms to us for our iron tools. Thefe weapons were all made of the club-wood, or cafuarina*, and were either plain fpcars, about eight or ten feet long, or clubs, which commonly had a large knob at one end. Captain Cook had been very fuc-cefsful in the meanwhile, having procured a great quantity of fruit and feveral hogs, with all which we embarked in our boats at noon. The weather which had been very warm on more, was really much cooler on board, where the wind came down in flrong guffs from the mountains,, fometimes attended with fmall fhowers. In the afternoon I remained on board, but my father accompanied the captain on more, and went up the hill a little way to a wretched hut; but finding no inhabitants there, who had probably been alarmed by their fhooting at birds, he put fcveral nails on a few bread-fruit, which he faw clofe to the hut, and then defcended to the beach with fome botanical acquifitions. Seven canoes arrived about the fhip from La Dominica: the next morning, whilfl feveral others from St. Chriflina. went up the flrait. The former feemed to be of the fame nation with thofe with whom we were already ac- The Taheitians call it ioi/y which Hgnifics war, becaufe it furniihes the in-(humcnts of bloudflieJ', quaint ed, quainted, and brought the fame fruits to fell, which H{\u we had purchased in this iiland. We went on fliore after breakfaft, and found our friendly natives af-fcmbled on the beach. Among them was a chief, who was dreffed in a cloak manufactured of the paper-mulberry bark, like the Taheitian cloth, and who wore the diadem, the gorget, the ear-pendants, and bunches of hair. We learnt that this man was the king of the whole ifland, though he had not great refpect fhewn him. He pre-fentcd captain Cook with fome fruits and hogs, and continued in the neighbourhood of our people the whole day. He acquainted us that his name was Honoo *, and that he was he-ka-ai) which was doubtlefs a title correfponding to the aree of Taheitce, and areekee of the Friendly Iflands. He feemed to be a very good-natured, intelligent man, a character fo prevalent in his countenance, that Mr. Hodges, who drew his picture, could not fail of cxprcfhng it, as may be feen in the print of him, in captain Cook's account of this voyage. We enquired for the name of this iiland and the adjacent ones, and found that St. Chriflina was called Waitahoo, La Dominica Heevahoa, and St. Pedro Onateyo. Mahine, who was exceflivcly fond of * This word fignifies a turtle, or fea-tortoife, in the Taheitian language ; it is therefore probable that the names of thefe people fomctimes are taken from animals, like thofe of the North-American Indians. In the fame manner 0-T'cof the name of the king of Taheitce, figmfie* a heron. D 2 thefe ( , thefe people, on account of the vaft fimilarity between their manners, language and perfons, and thofe of his nation, was continually engaged in converfation with them, and purchafed a great number of their ornaments. He mewed them many cuftoms of his country, with which they were unacquainted, and among thefe was the method of lighting a fire, by rubbing together the dry flicks of the hibifais tiliaceus, to which they were extremely attentive. Captain Cook found a great quantity of vegetables, fome fowls and hogs, at the trading place, which he purchafed for fmall nails, knives, pieces of cloth, &c. The red feathers of Tonga-Tabboo, or Amfterdam Iiland, were likewife in great repute here, and the natives gave many hcad-drcfles, and other ornaments, in exchange for them. We few only one woman this day, who fat down in the circle of her countrymen, and was dreilcd in a piece of cloth made of bark, like the women of the Society Iflands. She was an elderly woman, and fcarce dillinguifhable from a Taheitian. We walked this day about a mile and a half, on the fouth fide of the rivulet. After crofting a clear fpot, from whence we had a full profpeel: of the harbour, wc entered a thick wood, where we faw chiefly the ratta, or Taheitce nut-trees (mocarpus *) which grew to a confidcrablc fizc and height, and fome fine bread-fruit trees ; both which are * See Forft, Nova Genera Plantar. planted planted in the plains at Taheitee, the heat being lefs vio- Sa, lent there than at thefe iflands. At lafl we came to one of the huts of the natives, which, in comparifon with the lofty houfes of the Society Iflands, was only a wretched hovel. It was placed on an elevated platform of floncs, which were not fmooth and even enough to form a very comfortable couch, though they were covered with mats. On this bafe the natives had erected a quantity of bamboo-canes, clofely connected together, between five and fix feet high, above which the roof rofe in a ridge at top, confiding of fmall flicks, thatched with the leaves of the bread-fiuit and ratta tree. The whole houfe might be about fifteen feet long, and eight or ten feet broad, and the method of placing it on a foundation of flones, fccmcd to intimate that the country is fubjeet to heavy rains and inundations at certain fcafons. We faw fome large wooden troughs here, and found pieces of bread-fruit, mixed with water, in them. Three natives appeared near the hut, who, at our defire, went down about a hundred yards to the brook, and brought us fome frefh water to drink. Having rewarded them for their rcadinefs to fervc us, we walked to the beach, and from thence returned on board. In getting into our boat, wc ran the grcatefl rifle in the world of being ovcrfet, and were wetted by the furf, which broke upon the rocks. Mahine, who flill remained on more, plunged into the water, and fwam to the boat, to prevent our ex- pofing pofing ourfelves once more to the fame danger in taking him in. Dr. Sparrman {laid on board with me in the afternoon, defcribing and drawing fome plants which we had collected in the morning ; but my father returned amorc with the captain to the fouthern beach, where he found feveral habitations near the fea, but faw no women. This was the fame beach to which the natives had carried the dead body of their countryman. They were conducted to a houfe, which had been that unfortunate man's dwelling, and faw feveral hogs there, now the property of his fon, a youth of fifteen years, to whom they made feveral expiatory prc-ieins,. Our people enquired for his female relations, but were told they remained on the top of the mountain, to weep and mourn for the dead. We had fome reafon to fLifpccl, from this account, that the pallifades or cnclofurcs along the top of the rock, furrounded the burying-places of the inhabitants. The captain purchafed a quantity of fruit, and feveral hogs, at this beach ; and though he was in the midil of the relations of a man whom our people had killed, he did not perceive the lead animofity or fpirit of revenge amongfl them. The next morning Dr. Sparrman went on fhore with me to the watering place, where the trade for provifions was very confiderable. Our iron ware was however lowered in value at leaft two hundred per cent, fmce our anchorage in the ihe harbour. Our fmall nails, which they had eagerly taken at firft, were now no longer current; and even the large ones were not much coveted. Beads were not eftcemed at all; but ribbons, cloth, and other trifles were more agreeable. Some large hogs were purchafed for pieces of the mulberry-bark, covered with red feathers, which we had obtained at the ifland of Amfterdam or Tonga-Tabboo. The weather was exceedingly hot this day, for which rea-fon many of the inhabitants made ufe of large fans to cool themfclvcs. Thefe fans, of which they fold us a great number, were formed of a kind of tough bark or grafs, very firmly and curioufly plaited, and frequently whitened with fhelblime. Some alfo had large feathered leaves, which anfwercd the purpofe of an umbrella, and upon examination, were found to belong to the corypha umbraculi-fera, Linn, a kind of palm. The fans are reprcfented on a reduced fcalc on the fame plate, with the head-drefles of thefc people, and inferted in captain Cook's account of this* voyage. Notwithstanding the immcnfc heat of the day, we re-folvcd to afcend the mountain, in hopes of being well rewarded for the trouble, by the difcoveries wc Ihould make. The pallifades at the top were particularly what we aimed-at, none of our people having hitherto any idea of them. Mr. Patton and two other gentlemen were of the party. We. fcora foon crofled the fine rivulet, at which our people watered, and followed the path on the north fide, feeing that the grcatefl number of inhabitants had come down from thence. The afcent was at firfl not very fatiguing j feveral gentle hills formed the fore-ground, which wrcre almofl level on the fummits, and contained feveral fpacious plantations of bananas, in excellent order. Thefe fpots always opened upon us unexpectedly, as the reft of our way lay through a clofc tufted wood of fruit trees, mixed with other forts, extremely plcafant to us, on account of the thick and cooling made. Here and there wc met with a folitary ccco-nut palm, which, far from lifting its royal head with becoming pride, was out-topped and hid by meaner trees. In general thefc trees do not thrive well upon mountains, preferring a low fituation ; infomuch chat they abound upon the coral-lcdgcs, where they have fcarccly foil fuflicicnt to take root. A few natives accompanied us, and fome others met us with fruit, which they carried to our trading place. In proportion as we afcended, wc paffed a number of their houfes, which were all built upon an elevated bafe of flones, and exactly upon the plan of that which I have defcribed, page 2 1. Some of them fccmcd to be very lately built, and looked very clean within ; but wc could not ditlinguifli the number of beds in them, of which the Spaniards make mention, and fufpected that they only meant different mats fprcad on the floor. The ground became came much deeper and rugged as we advanced. The ri- Ay^, vulet frequently ran in a deep glen, on the brink of which the path was rather dangerous. We were likewife obliged to crofs the water feveral times in our way j but always found the habitations more numerous towards the top. We reded in feveral places, and were prcfented with fruit and a little water by the natives, who refembled the Ta-heitians too much in other refpecTs, to be unlike them in hofpitality. We never faw a fingle deformed, nor even ill-proportioned man among them j all were drong, tall, well-limbed, and active in the greated degree. The nature of their country contributes towards their activity and the ex-crcifc which they are obliged to take, probably preferves their elegance of form. Having advanced near three miles from the fea fide, we faw a young woman, who came out of a houfe before us, and hadened up the hills as fad as we advanced. She was drefTed in a piece of cloth, made of the mulberry-tree's bark, and reaching to the knees. Her features were like thofe of the Taheitee women, as far as we could difcem at the didance of thirty yards, which fhe took care to prcferve between herfclf and us, and her dature was middle fized. The natives made many figns to us to return, and feemcd to be very uncafy and much difplcafed at our progrefs. Dr. Sparrman and myfelf, defirous of prefcrving the plants which wc had collected, turned back, whild Mr. Patton and the red went on about two miles farther, with-Vol, II. E out out feeing any thing more than ourfelves. We were the more eafily perfuadcd to dcfrfl from our purpofe, as the heat of the day, our precarious (late of health, and the fatigue of the afcent, had entirely exhaufled us, and as we faw no profpect of reaching the fummit. It appeared indeed at lcaft three miles diftant from the place where we flopped, thegreateft partof which fccmcd to be infinitely fleeper than what we had hitherto left behind us. The whole ground, as far as we had gone, was covered with a rich mould, and contained excellent plantations, and groves of various fruit-trees. The rocks under this mould, which appeared chiefly near the banks of the rivulet, or on the broken fides of the path, contained volcanic productions, or different kinds of lava, fome of which are full of white and greenifli fherls. Thefe iflands are therefore fimilar, in regard to their origin and the nature of their minerals, to the Society Iflands, the greater part of which fcem to have had burning mountains. About the houfes we frequently faw hogs, and fowls of a large fort, and now and then fome rats. The trees were likewife inhabited by feveral fmall birds, which re-fembled thofe of Taheitce and the Society Iflands ; but they were not frequent, and in no great variety. The Marque-fas, upon the whole, fo much refcmblc the Society Iflands, that they only fccmcd to want the beautiful ambient plain, and the coral reef, which forms their excellent harbours. No people in the South Sea, whom we had hitherto met with, with were fo much like each other in form, cufloms, and Al!l*l. language, as the inhabitants of both thefe groups of iflands. The principal difference fcemed to lie in the different degrees of cleanlinefs. The Taheitians, and their next neighbours of the Society Iflands, arc perhaps the cleanlieft people under the fun; they bathe two or three times a day, and wafh their hands and face before and after every meal. The inhabitants of the Marquefas did not make their ablutions fo frequently, and were befides very flovcnly in the manner of preparing their meals. Their principal food is bread-fruit, which they roaft over the fire, rarely baking it under ground ; when it is fufficiently done, they put it into a very dirty wooden trough, out of which their hogs are fed at other times, and mix it up with water. This mixture they fcoop out with their hands. They alfo prepare fermented pafle from their bread-fruit, of which they make the fame kind of acidulous pottage, which is a great dainty with the Tahcitian chiefs. Their bread-fruit is doubtlefs the larger! and mod delicious which we ever tailed ; and as wc bought many of them perfectly ripe, we found them as foft as a kind of cuflard, and in that (late too lufcious to be eaten. Their food confifts of the fame variety of fruit and roots which are common at Taheitee, except the apple (fpondias.) Their diet is chiefly vegetable ; though^ they have hogs and fowls, and catch abundance of frfh at certain times. Their drink E 2 is a'pS. is purely water, iince coco-nuts are fcarce, at lead in the parts which we vifited. It is however to be fufpected, that fince they have the pepper-root, and make life of it as a fign of peace, like the other iflanders, they may alfo prepare the fame dainty beverage from it, with which the others intoxicate themfelves.. They are peculiarly cleanly in rc^-gard to the egefta. At the Society Iflands the wanderer's eyes and nofe are offended every morning, in the midfl of a path, with the natural effects of a found digeflion : but the natives of the Marquefas are accuftomed, after the manner of our cats, to bury the offenfivc objects in the earth. At Taheitce, indeed, they depend on the friendly affiflance of rats, who greedily devour thefe odoriferous dainties; nay they fccmcd to be convinced that their cuftora is the moft proper in the world ; for their witty countryman, Tupaya (Tupia), found fault with our want of delicacy, when he faw a little building, appropriated to the rites of Cloacina, in every houfe at Batavia. Wc haflened down to the fca-fide, in order to reach it before our boats put ofF. When we came to the fhip, we found it furrounded with canoes from different parts, who brought feveral hogs and plenty of bananas for fale. The alarm which our unfortunate act of violence had fpread among the natives on the firft day, was now forgotten, and they came into the fhip in great numbers, converfing familiarly with our people, and exprelhng great fatisfaction at at every thing which they faw. They had even fo far laid afide all thoughts of what had happened, that many began to pilfer again, as often as an opportunity offered ; however, if they were detected, they never failed to return very quietly what they had taken. They frequently danced upon the decks, for the diverfion of our failors ; and in thefe dances we obferved a flriking refemblance with thofe of Taheitee. It appeared likewife that their mufic was nearly the fame, efpecially as they had the fame kind of drums, of which Mahine purchafed one. Their canoes were likewife very fimilar to thofe of Taheitee, but of no great fize. The heads commonly had fome flat upright piece, on which the human face was coarfely carved ; and their fails were made of mats, triangular, and very broad at the top. The paddles which they ufed were made of a heavy hard wood, ihort, but fharp-pointed, and with a knob at the upper end. I (laid on board in the afternoon, and ranged the collections which we had hitherto made. In the evening, captain Cook, with fome officers, Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, and my father, returned on board, having been out all the afternoon to vifit two coves to the fouth of our harbour. They found thefe places extremely open, and ex-pofed to the fea, and run great rifle in landing and embarking, on account of the prodigious furf on the beach. They met with abundance of refrefhments for their pains, and: pur- purchafed feveral hogs. The natives were lefs rcferved in both places than in our harbour, and a confiderable num. ber of women appeared among them, with whom the boat's crew foon became acquainted, fmcc fcveral of them had as much complaifance as certain ladies at the Society and Friendly Iflands, New Zeeland, and Eafter Ifland. They were inferior to the men in ilaturc, but well proportioned, and fome in feature approached the plcafing contour of the Tahcitian women of quality. Their general colour was the fame as among the common people of the Society Iflands, and only very few were a little fairer than the rcil. No punctures were obfervcd on them, though the other fex are fo much accuflomed to disfigure themfclves with this unfightly ornament. One of the handfomcfl confented to be drawn by Mr. I lodges, and an exact engraving, made from his drawing, is infertcd in captain Cook's account of this voyage. All the women wore pieces of cloth of the mulberry bark, of different forts ; but the variety of thefe cloths was very trifling, compared with what it is at Taheitee; and it fecmed the quantity was likewife inconiidcr-able, for, in Acad of being wrapped up in that number of pieces, fo common among the luxurious chiefs of that ifland, they only wore a finglc ahow or cloak, which covered them from the fhouldcrs to the knees. Round their necks they fometimcs had a few loofc firings, which were not very ornamental ; but our people took notice of no other other finery among them. After a Ihort flay, our party pre- ( pared to return to their boat. One of the failors, having been inattentive to his duty, received feveral blows from the captain. This trifling circumflance would not deferve a place in this narrative, but for the obfervation, which the natives made upon it. As foon as they faw it, they fhewed it one to another, and exclaimed tape a-hai te tina) " he beats his brother." We were well convinced ftom other inftanccs that they knew the difference between the commander and his people ; but it appeared at the fame time, that they looked upon us all as brethren. The moll natural inference in my mind is, that they only applied an idea to us in this cafe, which really cxills with regard to themfclves. They probably look on themfclves as one family, of which the eldefl born is the chief or king. As their community is not yet arrived at that degree of civilization which the Taheitians enjoy, a difference of rank docs not take place among them and their political conflitution has not acquired a fettled monarchical form. The nature of their country, which requires a greater labour and culture than Taheitce, is one great caufc of this difference ; for fmcc the means of fubfiilence are not fo cafily attained, the population and the general luxury, cannot be fo confidcrablc,. and the people remain upon a level. Agreeable to this oh-fervation, WC have found that no particular honour or re-fpect was paid to their kingHoMOo, whovifited us on the fecond fccond day after our arrival. All his pre-eminence fecmed to confifl in his drcfs, which was more complete than that of many of his people, who by choice, or through indolence, go naked in a happy tropical climate, where cloath-ing is not wanted. The next morning the captain went to the fame cove again, but was much lefs fuccefsful than on the preceding evening. The natives, who were not yet fufliciently acquainted with the excellence and durability of our iron ware, refufed to take it any longer, and coveted a number of articles, which it was not in our power to part with. In the afternoon, therefore, we weighed the anchor, and flood out of the harbour of Madrc de Dios, where wc had lain fomcthing lefs than four days. Wc had provided a confi-derable quantity of excellent water during that time, and obtained a very falutary fupply of refrefhmcnts from a friendly and well-difpofed people. Our acquifitions in natural hiflory had been but inconfiderablc, from the great fimilarity of this iiland to Taheitee and the adjacent group, and on account of our very fhort (lay. The fame caufes had likewife prevented our forming a more perfect acquaintance with the natives, who fccmcd to be well worth the contemplation of philofophic travellers. Wc particularly regretted, that it had not been in our power to examine thofe enclofures on the fummits of the mountain, which, as I flill fufpect, have fome connection with their ( their religious rites. The Spaniards make mention of an jjw*, oracle*, which, from their accounts, feems to have been a burying place, like thofe of the Society Iflands but we were likewife unfortunate enough not to meet with any thing of this kind. The number of thefe good people cannot be very confiderable, on account of the fmall fize of the iflands which they inhabit. JVaitahoo, or St. Chriflina, is about eight leagues in circuit ; O-Hecva-roa]*, or Dominica, fifteen leagues ; Onateyo, or St. Pedro, three leagues ; and Magdalcna, which we only faw at a great cliflance, five leagues, according to the Spanifh account. The natives of thefc different iflands, wc have great rcafon to believe, are all of one and the fame tribe, like the people of Taheitee and the Society Iflcs ; we may at lead affirm it with certainty of thofe of St. Chriflina and Dominica, having converted and traded with both. The ifland of Dominica, the largeft of the Marquefas, is fo cxceffivcly flcep and craggy in many parts, that its inhabitants cannot be fo numerous as thofe of St, Chriflina in proportion to its fize. Such fpots as are fit for culture are very populous in thefe iflands; but as they are all very mountainous, and have many inacceflible * Sec Mr. Dalrymplc*8 Collection of Voyages, vol. i. p. 68. I It is remarkable, that this name occurs in the lift of iflands which Tupaya and other natives of the Society Ifles communicated to their Englith friends. The people of the Marqucfas who could not pronounce the r, always faid O-Heeva-oa. Vol. II. F and and barren rocks, it is to be doubted whether the whole population of this group amounts to fifty thoufand pcr-fons. The Spaniards, who difcovered them, found their manners gentle and inoffenfivc, if we except a trifling difference at Magdalena, which probably arofe from fome mifunderflanding, or from the impetuous temper of thofe navigators. When we arrived amongft them, we were received with every mark of friendGiip. They prefented us with roots of pepper, and branches of tamannoo (caJopMhm tnopbyllum, Linn.) in fign of peace ; they fold us their provi-fions ; and though we killed one of their brethren, they continued the fame kind treatment, and permitted us to roam about their country to a great diftance without moleftation. This behaviour, their manners, their beautiful forms, their drelTes, provifions, embarkations, and their language, prove that they have the fame origin with the Tahcitians, and only differ from them in a few refpccTs, which the nature of their country required. The advantages which the rich encircling plains beffow on the Tahcitians and their near neighbours, mufl drop in great mcafure at the Marqucfas. "When they have cultivated as much ground as will afford them the means of fubfiftcnce, there is none remaining for thofe extenfive plantations of mulbcrry-trccs, which every where (hike the eye at Taheitce: indeed if they had the ground, they cannot afford to bellow the time which this branch branch of culture requires. The great fources of Taheitian jgJJ£ afiluencc and luxury, their profufion of food, and their vail variety and quantity of cloth, do not extft in the Mar-quefas: but the inhabitants have a competence ; they are all equal among themfelves; they are active, very healthy, and beautifully made ; there is nothing which can make them unhappy, by debarring them the means of obeying nature's voice. The Taheitians have more comforts and convcniencies; they have perhaps fuperior fkill in the arts, and thefe things give them a greater relifh for the enjoyment of life but to balance thefe advantages, they are no longer upon a level; one part lives by the labours of the other, and difeafes already wait upon their exceiTes. ——————Scilicet improbae Crefcunt divitise, tamen Curtac nefcio quid fempcr abeft rci. HoR. The fruits and frcili meat which we obtained at the Marqucfas, may be confidcred as the firfl refloratives after a cruize of four months and a half; during which we vi-fucd the frozen zone to 7 1 deg. and the torrid to 9 \ deg. S. latitude. The fmall fupply of potatoes at Eafler Iiland was only a medicine, which providentially flopped the rapid progrefs of various difeafes on board, but could not prevent their return, when we approached the torrid zone; whole active heat fet our ftagnant and putrid blood into a E 2 flatc flate of fermentation. The wan look of all on board fuftlr ciently proved, that our meeting with the Marqucfas prevented a fatal and general attack of noxious ciiftempers, which would have found us an eafy prey, and might, in a fliort fpace of time, have made great havock in our fliip. It mud be allowed, at the fame time, that, as far as humaa art, and a humane beneficent difpofition will go, our worthy furgeon, Mr. Patton, took the bed precautions poffible to prefcrve the healths of all on board, by fuggefling the proper methods to captain Cook, and by watching over us with unremitted afliduity. I will venture to affirm, that it is to him alone, under Providence, that many of us are indebted for our lives ; and that his country owes him the prefcrvation of thofe valuable and ufeful members of the commonwealth, who were fent out on this dangerous expedition. Great commendations are likewife due to captain Cook, who left no experiment untried which was propofed to him, and which feemed to promifc fuccefs. The fate of the voyage depended upon the health of the crew, and he had the more merit in taking his meafurcs agreeably to this reflection, fincc, however obvious it may fcem, it has feldom guided other naval commanders. The fliort flay at the Marquefas had not been fufficicnt to reflore our patients to perfect health, and thofe who had the bilious cholic were rather worfe than before, having ventured to eat flatulent fruits, which were extremely dangerous gerous in a weak flomach. Captain Cook himfelf was far A7R7+; from being recovered ; for though he had experienced the bad effecTs of expofing himfelf to the burning rays of the fun at Eafler Ifland, he had been active all the time, in pur-chafing provifions, and fuperintending his people on fliore. The effort which I had made in climbing the mountain, had likewife been too violent for my precarious flate of health, and threw me into a dangerous bilious diforder, which was the more mortifying, as it happened jufl at a time, when the fcene for my occupations was to open. Wc fleered S. S. W. from St. Chriflina, and afterwards changed the courfe to S. W. and W. ? S. bringing to, every night, for greater fafety, as we were now very near the archipelago of low iflandsj which had always been looked upon as a very intricate part of the Pacific Ocean. The Dutch navigators, in particular, have given an unfavourable idea of it; for Schoutcn calls it the Bad Sea, and Rogge-wein the Labyrinth. The latter loll one of his fhips, the African Galley, on a low ifland, which, from that unfortunate accident, he called Pernicious Ifland. This circum-flance having happened within the memory of man, is known among the Society Ifl.es ; from whence we may conclude, that Pernicious Ifland cannot be at a great didancc from that group. On the i 7 th we difcovercd a low ifland, about ten o'clock Sunday 17. in the morning, and coming up with it about noon, wc were apS'l. Tvere convinced, from the perfpicuity of Mr. Byron's dc-fcription, that it was the eaftcrmoft of King George's Iflands. We were alfo confirmed in this belief towards night, when we perceived the other ifland, which he comprehended under that name. The ifland before us was extremely low and fandy, and formed an elliptic rocky ledge, no lefs than fix leagues in its longefl diameter, from north to fouth. Its latitude i3 14" 28' S. and its longitude 144" 56' W. From fpace to fpace it was covered with coco-nut trees in great numbers, which had a pleafing airy look. Various trees and flirubbcries fometimcs concealed the flcms of thefe palms to a great part of their height, but their beautiful crown always towered above the reft. The intervals between thefe green fpots were fo low, that the fea waflicd over them into the lagoon within. The flillncfs of the water, confined by the ledge of rocks, and its milky hue where it was (hallow, contraflcd very agreeably with the ruffled furfacc of the bcryllinc unfathomable ocean. Wc failed clofc along the wcflcrn fide of the ifland in the afternoon, and obfervcd the rocks to be tinged with a fine fcar-let colour in many places, exactly as Mr. Byron had found them. Several canoes Tailing in the lagoon/ fmokes riling up between the clumps of trees, and armed men of a dark hue running along fhore, were objects which greatly encreafed the plcafurc of the profpecT. Wc likewife perceived women retiring to a remote part of the ledge, with bundles dies on their backs ; an evident fign that they expected no good from our appearance on their coaft. Indeed, having had the misfortune to lofc fome of their countrymen in op-pofing Mr. Byron's boats, and having been expelled from their habitation during a whole day by his people, who lived at difcretion on their coco-nuts, it is not furprifing that they fecured their fmall poffeflions againfl the invafion of people who looked fo like their enemies. Towards the S. W. end of the ifland we perceived the paflage into the lagoon, which Mr. Byron mentions, and fent a boat to found in its entrance, becaufe at that time we were not yet acquainted with his ill fuccefs in the fame attempt. Our people found a bottom of lliarp corals, which made it impracticable for the ihip to anchor. The natives, who were aflembled in arms on the north point of the paflage, behaved very quietly, and brought fome coco-nuts, which were exchanged for nails. Upon this information, another boat was hoiflcd out, and both fent to the fhore again, in order to trade with the natives, and to efface the finiflcr ideas which they fecmed to have conceived of us at firft. My father, Dr. Sparrman, and myfclf were of the party ; though I was extremely ill of a bilious complaint. We landed without any oppofition, and immediately mixed among the natives, of whom there fecmed to be about fifty or fixty. They were all a fet of {lout men, of a dark, brown, and had fome punctures on the breafl, belly, and hands,, hands, chiefly in imitation of fifh.es, which ffirnifii a great part of their food. Their features were not difagreeablc, but more mild than thofe of the natives of all the high iflands about them. They went perfectly naked, having only a very fmall piece of cloth about their loins. Their women did not come near us; but thofe whom we faw at a diftance had the fame colour as the men, and their piece of cloth was enlarged to the fize of a fhort apron. The hair arid beards were generally black and curling, but fome times cut; however I took notice of a fingle man, whofe hair was quite ycllowifh at the points, As foon as we landed they embraced us, touching our nofes, utter the cuflom of New Zeeland, and began to bring coconuts and dogs for fale to the boats. Mahine, who was with us, uurchafed feveral dogs for fmall nails, and fome for ripe bananas, which he had brought from the Mar-quefas. This fruit was much valued by the people of the low ifland, who immediately knew it ; it mould fecm therefore that they have fome acquaintance with the high iflands, iince bananas never grow upon their barren coral ledges. The dogs were not unlike thofe at the Society Iflands, but had fine long hair of a white colour. Mahine therefore was eager to purchafe them, becaufe that very fort of hair is made ufe of in his country to adorn the brcall-platcs of the warriors. Wc attempted to go directly into the grove, under which the habitations were fituated ; but the natives op- oppofmg it, we advanced along the point, picking various £™l plants, and particularly a fcurvy-grafs, which was common, and feemed to be very wholefome. The natives fhevved us that they bruifed this plant, mixed it with fhell-fifh, and threw it into the fea, wherever they perceive a fhoal of fifh.es. This food intoxicates them for fome time, and thus they are caught on the furface, without any other trouble than that of taking them up. The name which they give to this ufeful plant is e-Now. We likewife met with plenty of purflanc, refcmbling the common fort, which the natives call e-Tooree, This plant likewife grows at the Society Iflands, and is there drefTed under-ground, and eaten by the people. There were feveral forts of trees on this ifland which grow in the Society lfles, and likewife fome plants which wc had not fcen before. The foil was extremely fcanty ; the foundation confifled of coral, very little elevated above the furface of the water. On this we found a.coarfe white fand, mixed with fragments of coral and fliclls, and a very thin covering of mould. We advanced infenfibly round the point, fo as to come behind the habitations, and difcovercd another point jutting out into the lagoon, and forming a kind of bay, of which the fliore was perfectly covered with fhrubberies and groves. Between the two points the water was very mallow ; and we perceived a great body of the natives croffing over from the farthcit point, and dragging their fpears after them. Vol. II. G We AvITl. We. immediately retired into the thicket, and paiTed by the huts, of which all the inhabitants were on the beach. Thefc huts were very fmall and low, covered with a kind of matting of coco-nut branches. We only faw fome dogs in them. Their boat-houfes were exactly of the fame materials, only a little larger. The canoes in them were very fhort, but (tout, and pointed at both ends, and had a fharp keel. As foon as we came on the beach, we mixed among the natives, who were rather furprifed to fee us come out of their village. We acquainted the lieutenant who commanded our boats with the hoftile appearances we had feen, upon which our people were upon their guard, and prepared to rcimbark. In the mean time Mahine afTifled us in converfing with the natives, who told us that they had a chief or areckee, and that they called their ifland Teoukea. Their language, upon the whole, approached very much to the Taheitian dialect, except that their pronunciation was more coarfc and guttural. The reinforcement now began to appear in the bufhes, armed with long clubs, or round fliort (laves, and fpcars, fome fourteen feet, fome nine feet long, pointed with the jagged tail of the fling-ray. We therefore flcppcd into our boats, but the natives croudcd about them, and fccmcd in doubt whether they mould detain us or not j however, as our retreat had been too early for their fchemc, they appeared contented with our departure, and afhflcd us in pufhing off off itie boats. Some threw fmall Hones into the water near us, and all fecmed to glory in having, as it were, frightened us off. They all talked a great deal, and very loud, after we were gone, and at lad feated themfelves along the beach, in the lhade of the trees. We were no fooner on board, and had recited our adventures, than the captain ordered four or five cannon fliot to be fired over their heads, and into the fea before them, to fhew what he could do. Thefe balls, and cfpecially the laft, terrified them fo much, that they all ran away from this point with the greatcft precipitation. The number of coco-nuts which we obtained among them did not amount to more than thirty, and the dogs were about five, Mr. Byron found wells on this ifland, which, though they afforded but a fmall quantity of frefh water, may be fufficicnt to fupply the few inhabitants with this neceffary clement. That navigator likewife met with burying-places of flone, in the grove, which have a very great affinity with the Taheitian mara'is. The offerings of animal and vegetable food, hung on the branches of trees around thefc cemeteries, flrengthen that limilarity. There is rcafon to believe, from this circumflance, as well as from the form, manners, and language of the people, that they arc very nearly allied to the happier inhabitants of the mountainous iflcs in the neighbourhood. The great lagoons within their circular iflands are probably plentiful rcfervoirs of G 2 fifh, fifh, from whence they are fupplied with condant food. The fandy barren part of their ledges is a fit place upon which turtles may depofit their eggs ; and it appears from the fragments found by the Dolphin's people, that they know how to catch thefc large creatures, whofe nutritive ilefli and fhell mud be a delicious treat to them. The few plants which thrive about them are very ufeful, and furnifh them with the means of facilitating the capture of fiihy fome trees arc fo large that their trunks may be ufed for canoes, and their branches for weapons and tools. The coco-palm, which is the principal fupport of many nations on the globe, is likewife of infinite fervicc to them, and almofl every part of it is ufeful. The nuts which it bears, whilft they are grecn,contain from a pintto a quart of limpid liquor, which has a very plcafant fweetnefs, joined to a peculiar agreeable flavour ; its coolncfs and integrant particles, doubtlefs, make it a mod delicious draught, powerful beyond comparifon in quenching third in a hot climate. When the nut grows older, the kernel forms, which is at fir ft like a rich cream, and afterwards grows firm and very oily, like an almond, being extremely nutritious. The oil is frequently expreffed, and employed to anoint the hair and the whole body, at certain times. The hard fhell provides the natives with cups; and the fibrous coating round it affords all kinds of cordage, which arc flrong, eladic, and not much impaired by conflant ufc. Several Several articles of Indian houfhold furniture, and fcveral forts of ornaments are made with it. The long feathered leaves or branches, which fpread from the top of the ftem, are fit coverings for their houfes ; and when plaited, make good bafkets for provifions. The inner bark yields a kind of cloth, fuflicient for covering the body in a hot climate ; and the ftem itfelf, when grown too old to bear, is at lead fit to be ufed in the conflruclion of a hut, or may make the mail of a canoe. But befides fifh and vegetable food, they have alfo dogs, which live upon fifh, and are reckoned excellent meat by the natives of the Society Iflands, to whom they arc known. Thus Providence, in its wife difpenfations, made even thefe infignificant narrow ledges rich enough in the productions of nature, to fupply a whole race of men with the neceffarics of life. And here we cannot but ex-prefs our admiration, that the minutefl agents are fubfer-vient to the purpofes of the Almighty Creator. The coral is known to be the fabrick of a little worm, which enlarges its houfe, in proportion as its own bulk encreafes. This little creature, which has fcarce fenfation enough to diflinguifli it from a plant, builds up a rocky ftructure from the bottom of a fea too deep to be meafured by human art, till it reaches the furface, and offers a firm balls for the rcfidencc of man! The number of thefc low iflands is very great, and we are far from being acquainted with them all. In the whole extent of the Pacific Ocean, between the the tropics, they are to be met with ; however, they are remarkably frequent for the fpace of ten or fifteen degrees to the eaftward of the Society Iflands. Quiros, Schouten, Roggc-wein, Byron, Wallis, Carteret, Bougainville, and Cook have each met with new iflands in their different courfes ; and what is mod remarkable, they have found them inhabited at the diflancc of two hundred and forty leagues to the eaft of Taheitee. Nothing is more probable than that on every new track other iflands of this kind will flill be met with, and particularly between the i 6th and i 7th degree of S. latitude, no navigator having hitherto run down on that parallel towards the Society Iflands. Ic remains a fubjccT: worthy the invcfligation of philofophcrs,, to confider from what probable principles thefc iflands are fo extremely numerous, and form fo great an archipelago to windward of the Society Iflands, whilA they arc only fcattcred at confldcr-ablc dhlanccs beyond that group of mountainous iflands? It is true, there is another archipelago of coral ledges far to the weflward; I mean the friendly Iflands; but thefc arc of a different nature, and appear to be of a much older date; they occupy more fpace, and have a greater quantity of foil, on which all the vegetable productions of the higher lands may be raifed. After leaving Tcoukca we flood off and on during nighr, and then continued our courfe beyond the adjacent ifland, which is comprehended under Mr. Byron's appellation of King King George's Iflands. It refembled Teoukea perfectly, and only feemed to be larger. Its length from N. to S, appeared to be near eight leagues, and the breadth of its lagoon five or fix miles. It had numerous clumps of bufhes and trees, and was adorned with a great number of coco-nut palms. The next morning, at eight o'clock, we defcricd another Tmfday i9. ifland of the fame nature, but which wc fuppofe had not been fcen before. Towards noon another appeared to the well ward, which wc coaflcd all the afternoon. It was about eight leagues long, and full of people, who ran along the lliore with very long fpcars in their hands. The lagoon within was very fpacious, and fcveral canoes failed about upon it. It appears to me, that the mofl elevated and richefl fpots on the coral-ledges, arc generally to leeward, thcltered from the violence of the furf. In this fea, however, there arc feldom fuch violent florms, as might make thefc iflcs uncomfortable places of abode and when the weather is fair, it mud be very plcafant failing on the fmooth water in the lagoon, whilfl the ocean without is difagrceably agitated. A third new ifland was fcen in the evening, which we left the next morning, after wc had lain to all night. This group captain Cook called Pallifcr's Iflands ; they arc ft-tuated in about iSv 3 " the canoes of the Divinity/' The immenfe number of people thus aiTcmbled together was, in fact, more furprifmg than the fplcndor of the whole (hew. Upon a very moderate calculation, there could not be lefs than fifteen hundred warriors, and four thoufand paddlcrs, befulcs thofe who were in the provifion-boats, and the prodigious crouds on the fhorc. We were at a lofs to know the meaning of this armament, nor could wc obtain any information till wc came back to our fhip. The king having left O-Parre, and gone into the dillrict of Matavai, wc returned on board about noon. There we found many chiefs, and among the reft Potatow, who dined with us, and informed us, that the whole armament was intended againft the iiland of Eimeo, of which the chief, a vaflal of O-Too, had revolted. We learnt at the fame time, to our greater furprizc, that the fleet which we had fcen was only the naval force of the iingle dillrict of Atahooroo, and that all the other diflricts could furnifh their quota of vcllels in proportion to their fr/c. This account opened our eyes, in regard to the population of the ill and, and convinced us in a few moments, that it was Vol, II. K much much more confiderablc than we had hitherto fuppofed, The rcfult of a mofl moderate computation gave us one hundred and twenty thoufand perfons in the two peninfu-las of Taheitee *. The number of diflricts in both pcninfulas amounts to forty-three ; we affumed at a medium, that each could equip only twenty war-canocs, and we fuppofed each of thefe to be manned only with thirty-five men. The fum of men employed in the fleet, exclufivc of the attending boats, would then be no lefs than thirty thoufand ; and thefe we aflume as the fourth part of the whole nation. What makes this computation flill more moderate is, that wc fuppofc thefe thirty thoufand to be the whole number of perfons capable of bearing arms, or fit for fcrvice ; and that the common proportion of thefc men, to the reft of the people, is much fmallcr than one fourth, in all the countries of Europe. Captain Cook returned to O-Parrc with us in the aficr-noon. The whole fleet had already left that dillrict, and the canoes were difperfed; but we found O-Too, and were extremely well received. He conducted us to feveral of his houfes, through a country which perfectly rcicmbled a garden; fhady fruit-trees, fhrubbcrics with odoriferous flow- * This calculation was afterwards confirmed to be very low, when wc faw the fleet of the final left diftriiSt, which amounted to forty* four war-canoes, bffidtl twenty or five and twenty of a fmallcr fize. crs, •ers, and rivulets enlarged into limpid meets of water, con- a!£L, tinually varied before the eye. The houfes were all kept in the bcft order; fome were furrounded with walls of reeds, but others were open like the ufual dwellings of the people. We paffcd fcveral hours in his company, with fome of his relations, and principal attendants, who took every method to exprefs their friendfhip towards us. The convcrfation, though not yet very coherent, was however extremely lively ; and the women in particular laughed and chatted with the grcatcfl good humour. We often found them diverting each other by playing upon words $ and fometimes wc were highly entertained with a real witty ftroke, or a humorous fully. It was near funfet when wc departed, after fharing fome part of the happinefs which feems to be fo natural to this favoured ifland. The calm contented flatc of the natives j their fimplc way of life ; the beauty of the landfcape ; the excellence of the climate ; the abundance, falubrity, and delicious talle of its fruits, were altogether enchanting, and filled the heart with rapture. Surely the fat is faction which wc naturally feel in the hap-pinefs of others, is one of the mod delightful fenfations witli which the human foul is bleffed. The next morning the captain and my father paid an- Wudneffl.*$« other vifit to O-Too at Tarre, and found there the admiral of the fleet, Towhah, to whom they were introduced by O-Too himfelf. They all came on board before noon, and k 2 vifitcd vifited every part of the fhip above and below decks, particularly to gratify the curiofity of Towhah, who had never feen a (hip before in his life. He paid more attention to the multitude of new objects on board, to the llrcngth and fize of the timbers, malls, and ropes, than any Taheitian wc had ever fcen, and found our tackle fo exceedingly fupcrior to that which is ufual in his country, that he cxprcllcd a wifli to poflifs feveral articles, efpccially cables and anchors. He was now dreffed like the rcfl of the people in this happy ifland, and naked to the waift, being in the king's prcfcncc. His appearance was fo much altered from what it had been the day before, that I had fome difficulty to recollect him* He appeared now very lufly, and had a moll portly paunch, which it was impoflible to difcern under the long fpacious robes of war. His hair was of a fine filvcry grey, and his countenance was the moll engaging and truly good-natured which I ever beheld in thefc iflands. The king and he (laid and dined with us this day, eating with a vefy hearty appetite of all that was fet before them. O-Too had entirely loll his uncafy, diflruflful air; he fccmcd to be at home, and took a great plcafurc in inflructing Towhah in our manners. He taught him to make ufe of the knife and fork, to cat fait to his meat, and to drink wine. He himfelf did not rcfufe to drink a glaffl of this generous liquor, and joked with Towhah upon its red colour, telling him him it was blood. The honefl admiral having tailed our jgffc grog, which is a mixture of brandy and water, defired to taftc of the brandy by itfelf, which he called e vaj no Bretannee, Britifh water, and drank off a fmall glafs full, without making a wry face. Both he and his Taheitian majefly were extremely chearful and happy, and appeared to like our way of living, and our cookery of their own excellent provi-fions. They told us that their fleet was intended to reduce the rebellious people of Eimco (or York Ifland) and their chief, Te-arec-Tabonooce, to obedience, adding, that they would make the attack in a diflrict of that ifland, called Morca. Captain Cook propofed, in jeft, to accompany them with his fhip, and to fire upon the enemies of O-Too, which at firft they fmilcd at, and approved of j but prefently after they talked among themfclves, and then changing their tone, faid they could not make ufe of his afliflance, being refolved to go out againfl Eimco the fifth day after our departure. Whatever might be the real motive of this refolution, it certainly was the mofl politic in their fituation. We were too powerful an ally, not to be formidable even to thofe for whom we mould fight; and waving that confideration, it was making the people of Eimco too important, to bring our invincible four-pounders againfl them; for to thefe only would the victory be afcrib-cd.evcn by the vanquished \ and as foon as we fhould have left the ifland, the conquerors would lofc much of that importance AnuL. ponance which they had in the eyes of their enemies before the battle. Such a degree of contempt might prove fatal to them in the end. Thurfday is. My father, with Dr. Sparrman, a failor and a marine, went on fhorc the next day in the afternoon, with an intent to go up to the fummit of the mountains. We had a great number of canoes about us all this time, and in them there were always fome chiefs of different diflricts, who brought on board their hogs, and their mofl valuable pofTeflions, in order to exchange them for red feathers, on which they placed an extravagant value. Thefc feathers produced a great revolution in the connections which the women had formed with our failors ; and happy was he who had laid in a fufficicnt flock of this ufeful and precious merchandize at the Friendly Iflands \ the women crouded about him, and he had the choice of the faircfl. That our red feathers had infufed a general and irrefiilihlc longing into the minds of all the people, will appear from the following circumflancc. I have obfervcd, in the former part of this narrative, that the women of the families of chiefs never admitted the vifits of Europeans ; and alio that whatever liberties fome unmarried girls might with impunity allow themfclves, the married flate had always been held facred and unfpottcd at Taheitce. hut fticti was the force of the temptation, that a chief actually offered his wife to captain Cook, and the lady, by her hufband's order, order, attempted to captivate him, by an artful difplay of all her charms, fecmingly in fuch a carelcfs manner, as many a woman would be at a lofs to imitate. I was forry, for the fake of human nature, that this propofal came from a man, whofe general character was in other refpects very fair. It was Potatow who could defcend to this meannefs, from the high fpirit of grandeur which he had formerly fhewn. Wc cxprelTcd great indignation at his conduct, and rebuked him for his frailty. It was very fortunate for us, that a confidcrablc quantity of this red plumage had been difpofed of by our failors at the Marqucfas, in exchange for artificial curiofitics, before they knew the high value which it bore at Taheitce. Had all thefc riches been brought to this ifland, the price of provifions would in all likelihood have been railed to fuch an unrcafonable height, that wc might have fared even worfe than during our firft vifit. A Gngle little feather was a valuable prefent, much fuperior to a head or a nail, and :i very fmall bit of cloth, clofely covered with them, produced fuch ex-taticjoy in him who received it, as wc might fuppofc in an European, who ihould unexpectedly find the diamond of the Great Mogol. Potatow brought on board his mon-flrous helmet of war of five feet high, and fold it for red feathers ; fome Others fallowed his example, and targets without number were bought by almoil every failor. But much more furprifmg than this, was their offering for fafc thofe JJJ** thofe curious and lingular mourning dreffes, which are mentioned in captain Cook's firfl voyage *, and which they would not part with on any account at that time. Thefe drefles being marie of the rarcft productions of their ifland, and of the furrounding fea, and being wrought with the greateft care and ingenuity, mult of courfe bear a very con-liderable value among them. A number of complete mourning drefTcs, not lefs than ten, were purchafed by different perfons on board, and brought to England. Captain Cook has given one to the Britifh Mufeum, and my father has had the honour of prefenting another to the Univeiflty of Oxford, now depufited in the Afbmolcan Mufeum. This remarkable drefs confills of a thin flat board, of a femicircular form, about two feet long, and four or five inches broad. Upon thefe are fixed four or five chofen mother of pearl (hells, by means of firings of coco-nut core palled through fcveral holes which are pierced in the wood, and in the edges of the fhells. A larger fliell of the fame kind, fringed with bluifh-grccn pigeon's feathers, is fixed to each end of this board, of which the concave margin is placed upwards. Upon the middle of the concave margin there are two fhclls, which together form nearly a circle about fix inches in diameter ; and on the top of thefe a very large piece of mother of pearl, coiu- * Sec lUwUwoith's Compilation, vol. If. p, 14j. 146. 236. life the plait, go, 5. monly monly with its purple coating on, is placed upright. It is aII\'l. of an oblong fhape, enlarging rather towards the upper end, and its height is nine or ten inches. A great number of long white feathers, from the tropic bird's tail, form a radiant circle round it. From the convex margin of the board hangs down a tiffue of fmall pieces of mother of pearl, in fize and fhape fomcthing like an apron. This confills of ten or fifteen rows of pieces about an inch and a half long, and one-tenth of an -inch in breadth, each piece being perforated at both ends, in order to be fixed to the other rows. Thefe rows arc made perfectly ilreight and parallel to each other; therefore the uppermofl arc divided, and extremely fhort, on account of the femicircular fhape of the board. The lower rows arc likewife commonly narrower, and from the ends of each row a firing hangs down, ornamented with opercula of ihclls, and fometimes with European beads. A taffel or round tail of green and yellow feathers hangs down from the upper ends of the board on the fide of the apron, which is the mofl fhewy part of the whole drefs. A ilrong rope is fixed on each fide of that pair of (hells, which rctls immediately upon the concave margin of the board, and this firing is tied about the head of the pcrfon who wears the drefs. The whole piece hangs down perpendicularly before him, the apron hides his bread and flomach, the board covers his neck and moulders, and the full pair of (hells comes before his face. In Vol.11. L one one of thefe (hells there is a fmall hole cut out, through which the wearer mull look in order to find his way. The uppermoft fhell, and the long feathers round it, extend at leafl two feet beyond the natural height of the man. The other parts of his drefs are not lefs remarkable. He puts on a mat or a piece of cloth with a hole in the middle, like the ufual drefs of the country. Over this he places another of the fame fort, but of which the fore part hangs down almofl to the feet, and is befet with many rows of buttons made of pieces of coco-nut fhell. A belt, confifling of a twilled rope of brown and white cloth, is tied over this drefs round the waifl; a large cloak of net-work, clofcly befet with great bluifli feathers, covers the whole back ; and a turban of brown and yellow cloth, bound with a great quantity of fmall twilled ropes of brown and white cloth, is placed on the head. An ample hood of alternate parallel flripcs of brown, yellow, and white cloth defcends from the turban to cover the neck and moulders, in order that as little as pofliblc of the human figure may appear. Commonly the nearefl relation of the dcccafcd wears this whim-fical drefs, and carries in one hand a pair of large pearl-fhclls, which are clapped or beaten together continually, and in the other a flick, armed with mark's teeth, with which he wounds any of the natives who chance to come near him *. What may have been the origin of this fingu- * Sec Hawkefworth, vol. II. p. ftjlL lar lar cuftom wc cannot determine; but to me it feems to be calculated to infpire horror ; and the fantadical drefs in which it is performed, has fo much of that flrange and terrifying fhape which our nurfes attribute to ghofts and goblins, that I am almofl: tempted to believe fome ridiculous fu-perftition lurks under this funeral rite. The fpirit of the dcccafcd, exacting a tribute of grief and tears from its fur-vivors, and therefore wounding them with the mark's teeth, would not be an idea too extravagant for men to have adopted. Whatever it might be, wc never could obtain any intelligence from the natives on the fubjccT ; they gave us an account of the ceremony, and of the drefs, telling us tfic names of every part; but it was impofliblc to make ourfelves undcrftood, as foon as wc wanted to know why it was foi The moll fingular fact with which Mahine acquaint-us, relative to the mourning rite, was, that at the death of a man, a woman performs the ceremony ; but when a woman dies, a man mud go the rounds with the fcare-crow drefs. In England the curiofuy has been fo great, that a Tahcitian mourningdrefs, which a failor brought over, has been fold for five and twenty guineas. But in this rcfpccT. the Tahcitians arc no way inferior to civilized nations. In confcqucncc of Mahinc's relation of his adventures, the chiefs continually importuned us to give them curicfitics from Tonga-Tabboo, Waihoo, and Waitahoo \ inllead of * Amflcrdam Ifland, Eaftcr Ifland, and St. Chriftm*. L 2 Englifli Englifli goods, in exchange for their provifions and curiofi-tics. The feathered head-dreffes of the two lad iflands, and the bafkets, clubs, and painted cloth of the former, plcafcd them executively ; nay, they were eager to poffefs the mats of Tonga-Tabboo, though in general they perfectly rc-fembled their own manufacture. Our failors therefore frequently took advantage of their difpofition, and gave them the fame mats under another name, which they had formerly purchafed in their own iiland, or in the vSocicty Iflands. Thus there is a fimilarity in the general inclinations of human nature, and particularly in the defires of all nations who arc not in a date of lavage barbarifm, but have the advantage of civilization. The refcmblance will appear dill more perfect, if wc relate with what cagcrnefs the Tahcitians lillencd to the accounts of their youthful traveller. They always attended him in crouds, their oidcfl men eflecmcd him highly, and the principal people of the ifland, not excepting the royal family, courted his company. Betides the plcafurcof hearing him, they had likewife that of obtaining a number of valuable prefents from him, which cod them only a few kind cxprcflions. His time was fo agreeably taken up on fhorc, as he found new friends in every hut, that he feldom came on board, unlefs to fetch a new fct of prefents, or to mew the fhip to his acquaintance, and to introduce them to captain Cook and his fhipmatcs. His llories, however, were too wonderful fometimes to find ready ready belief among his audience, who now and then applied Ayr*. to us for a confirmation of his account. The rain convened into ftonc, the folid white rocks and mountains which wc melted into frcfli water, and the perpetual day of the antarctic circle, were articles which even ourfelves could not pcrfuadc them to credit. The account of canibals in New Zeeland was more eafily believed, though it filled them with horror. He brought on board a company of the natives during my father's abfence on the hills, who were come on purpofc to fee the head of the New Zeeland boy, which Mr. Pickerfgill had prefervcel in fpiiits. He readily gratified them with the fight, and their report brought great numbers to fee it. I was prefent when it was flicwn, and it (truck me to hear them give it a peculiar name in their language. They unanimouiiy called it teTae-di, which appears to be equivalent to " man cater." The remit of my enquiries among many of the chiefs and mofl intelligent people, on this extraordinary circumftancc, was the following. They laid they had a traditional report among them, that in an indefinite but very remote period of time, there were man-caters upon their iiland, who made great havock among the inhabitants, and were a very ilrong robuft people ; bu: that this race had long fmcc been entirely extinct. The fame account was confirmed to me in the flrongcil terms, on my return to England, by o Mai, with whom I happened to convcrfc upon the fubject. The inilucncc of this facT: upon, 1774- upon the aneient hiftory of Taheitee is very (hiking ; but lhall we conclude, that a fet of canibals have by fome accident made a defcent upon the iiland, and committed depredations upon the indigenous people ? or is it not rather evident, that the original (late of the whole nation is concealed in this tradition, and that all the Taheitians were anthropophagi, before they arrived at that (late of civilization, which the excellence of the country and climate, and the profufion of vegetables and animal food, has introduced ? It is a fact no lefs furprifing than certain, that the more we examine the hiftory of almoft every nation, the more wc find this cuflom prevalent in the full periods of their exiftencc. Traces of anthropophagy arc flill extant at Taheitce. Captain Cook faw fifteen recent jaw-bones hanging in one houfe *. Might they not be preferved as trophies taken from their enemies ? The next morning one of the natives, who had attempted to ileal a water cafk from our tents, was apprehended and confined. O-Too and Towhah coming on board fomcwhat early, being made acquainted with his offence, accompanied captain Cook on fhorc to fee him punifhed. He was tied to a pole, and, with their confent, received two dozen of very feverc lames. A great croud of natives, who were fpceta-rors of this act, were fo much terrified, that they began to * Sec Hawkefworth, vol, II. p. 161. run run off; but Towhah called them back, and, in a fpeech which lafted about four or five minutes, pointed out the equity of our conduct, and the neccflity of punifhing thefts. He reprefented, that though our power was infinitely fupe-rior to theirs, yet we neither Hole any thing, nor ufed any violence, but honeflly paid a proper price for every thing we received, and frequently gave prefents where we expected no return. That wc had fhewn ourfelves their beil friends, and that to Heal from friends was a fhameful action, which highly defcrved to be puniihed. The good fenfe and fm-glcncfs of heart of this excellent old man, endeared him to us, and his harangue carried perfuafion among his audience. In the afternoon Towhah came along fide with his wife, an elderly woman, who fecmed to have the fame excellent character as her hufband. They were in a large double canoe, with a roof built over the Hern, and had eight rowers. The old couple invited Mr. Hodges and myfelf to come into the canoe, and wc accompanied them to Parrc. Towhah afked us a variety of qucflions during the time we were on the water, chiefly relating to the nature and confli-tution of the country from whence we came. As he had never fecn any of our perfons of high rank, he concluded that Mr. Banks could be no lefs than the king's brother, and that captain Cook was high admiral. The information which wc gave him was received with the grcateft marks of furprizc and attention ; but when we told him wc had neither thcr coco-nut nor bread-fruit trees, he fecmed to think but meanly of our country, though wc enumerated all its other advantages. We were no fooner landed, than he ordered a repafl of fifh and fruit to be ferved up, and infilled on our partaking of it. We had juft dined before wc left the fhip, but unwilling to give offence, wc fat down and ate of the provifions, which were excellent. Indeed we could not but compare this happy country to Mahomed's Paradife, where the appetite is never cloyed by being gratified. The meal was already fcrved, and we were going to help ourfelves, when Towhah defned us to flop. In a few moments one of his attendants brought a large cook-knife, and fome bamboo-flicks, inflcad of forks. Towhah carved the victuals, and gave each of us a bamboo, faying he would cat in the Engliih manner. Inflcad of eating his bread-fruit by handfuls, he now cut it fmall, and took a bit of it after every morfel of fifh, to flicw how exactly he remembered our cuflom fincc the time of his dining with us. The good lady fcailed apart fome time afterwards, according to the invariable cuflom of the country. We walked about and chatted wiih them both till near funfet, when they embarked in their canoe, and returned to the diflrict called Atahooroo, part of which belonged to Towhah. They took leave of us very cordially, and promifed to return to the fhip again in a few days. We hired a double canoe for a nail, and returned on board before it was daik. I found Dr. Sparrman and my my father juft returned from the mountains. Noona, the fame lively and intelligent boy whom I have already mentioned in the former part of this narrative *, had been their conductor. As they fet out in the afternoon (on the 28th) they only reached a fmall hut on the fecond ridge, having croflcd two deep vallics, and climbed two flecp hills, rendered very flippcry from a fmart mower which had fallen. Here they found a man with his wife and three children. The man enlarged his cottage by means of branches of trees, and prepared them a fuppcr j after which, having prcvioufly made a fire, they watched and flcpt by turns. The fire was fcen on board our (hip; and in return they heard the ringing of the fliips bell at midnight, though they were upwards of a league diilant from it. The whole night was fair and cool ; but their friendly hoft, whole name was Tahca, had a violent cough. At day break they rcf 11 mcd their march towards the fummits, and Tahca led the way, with a load of coco-nuts, The difficulties in-creafed as they afcended \ the paths running along the narrow ridge of llcep hills, whofe fides were almofl: perpendicular. The greateft danger arofc from the flippcrincfs, oc-cafioned by the rains of the preceding day. When they had afcended to a considerable height, they found thick lhrub-bcries and woods on thefc llcep fides; and attempting to col- * Sec vol. I. p. 339. Vol.11. M lccT left plants there, they frequently met with precipices which are really tremendous. Still higher up the whole ridge was covered with a foreff, where they gathered a number of plants, which they had never feen in the vallies below. After they had crofted the ridgCj there fell a heavy fhowcr of rain ; and they coming to a very dangerous part, Tahea laid they could go no farther. They refolvcd however to leave their heavy plant and provifion bags behind, and went up with a finglc mufket to the fummit of the mountain, which they reached in about half an hour, Jufl about that time the clouds broke, and they had a profpccT: of Hua-hine, Tcthuroa, and Tabbuamanoo. The view of the fertile plain under their feet, and of the valley of Matavai, where the river makes innumerable meanders, was delightful in the highefl degree. Thick clouds however prevented their decerning any thing on the fouth fide of the ifland. In a few moments even the other part was covered again, and they were involved in a mill which wetted them to the Ikin. in their defcent my father had the misfortune to fall in a very rocky place, and bruifed his leg in fuch a manner, that he nearly fainted away. When he recovered, and attempted to proceed, he found that he had alfo received a dangerous rupture, for which he now continues to wear a bandage. Tahea aflillcd him in going down ; and they all arrived on board about four o'clock in the afternoon. The upper hills they found to con fill of a kind of clay extremely compact and and Riff. The vegetation on the upper part of the mountains was luxuriant, and the woods confided of many unknown forts of plants. They enquired particularly for the perfume-wood, with which die natives perfume their oil. Tahca fhewed them feveral plants which arc fometimes ufed as fubflitutes ; but the mofl precious fort itfclf he cither could not, or would not, point out to them. O-Mai' has told me that there arc at Taheitce no lefs than fourteen different forts of plants employed for perfuming ; which fliews how remarkably fond thefc people arc of fine fmells. The number of common women on board our fhip was confulerably encreafed fmce we had begun to deal in red feathers ; and this night in particular many flrolled about the decks who could not meet with partners. The abundance of pork likewife attracted them; for being almoft entirely deprived of that rich food in their own houfhold, they were eager to obtain it among our failors, and fometimes con-fumed incredible quantities. The goodnefs of their appetite and digeftion expdfcd them however to the inconvenience of reftleffhefs, and often difturbed thofe who wiflicd to fleep after the fatigues of the day. On certain urgent occafions they always required the attendance of their lovers; but as they were frequently refufed, the decks were made to referable the paths in the iflands. Every evening thefe women divided into different troops, which danced on the quarterdeck, the forC and the main-deck. Their mirth was M 2 often ^11%. often extravagant and noify ; and fometimes their ideas wcrs fo original as to give great amufoment. Vvrc had a very weak fcorbutic patient when wc arrived at Taheitce : this man being fomcwhat recovered by means of frefh vegetable food, and animated by the example of the crew, wooed a Taheitian girl ; about dufk led her to his birth, and lighted a candle. She looked her lover in the face, and finding he had loll one eye, flic took him by the hand, and conducted him upon deck again to a girl that was onc-cyed likewife, giving him to underiland, that that pcrfon was a fit partner for him, but that for her part flic did not choofe to put up with a blind lover. Two days after, my father, being in fome mcafurc rcco- May, Sunday i. vcrcd from the fatigue of his late cxciufion, and from the bruifc which he had received, went on fhorc, and found there o Rcttee, the chief of o-Iliddca, a diftrict and harbour where M. de Bougainville lay at anchor. This chief afked captain Cook, whether, on his return to England, he fhould fee M. de Bougainville, whom he called Potavirrcc ; and being anfwered in the negative, he put the fame qucflion to my father. He replied, ic was not impoflible, though he lived in a different kingdom. 11 Then," faid o-Rcttcc, " tell him I am his friend, and long to fee him again at o-Ta-hcitce ; and in order that you may remember it, I will give you a hog as foon as I return from my diftrict, to which I am now going." With that he began to relate, that bis friend. friend M. de Bougainville had had two (hips, and that on *m. hoard of one there was a woman, but that flic was ugly. He relied a long while on this circumflance, and fcemed to think it extraordinary that a fmglc woman fliould go on fuch an expedition. lie likewife confirmed the account of a vifit from a Spanish fliip, which wc had learned during our full day at Taheitee ; but he a flu red us that he and his countrymen had no great affection for them. O-Rcttee was a fine grey-headed man, but very healthy and vigorous, as the old people of Taheitee in general feem to be ; his countenance was the picture of a lively, chcarful, and generous man. lie told us he had been in many battles, and flic wed us feveral wounds he had received, particularly a blow with a Hone on his temple, which had left a deep fear. He had fought by Tootahah's fide, on the day when that chief was killed. The next morning Dr. Sparrman went with me up the Monday*, valley of Matavai, which the natives call Tooaookoo. This was the full cxcurfion of any length which I undertook after my illncfs : I was therefore highly delighted with the beautiful appearance of the vegetable creation, which had been revived by the late rainy feafon ; and furprifed at the. vaft improvements which 1 faw throughout the whole dif-tricl. Wherever I went, I faw new and cxtcnfivc plan i a-lions, in excellent order; I found numbers of new houfes built, and the natives at work upon new canoes in many places. places. It was plain, during our former flay, that the war between the two peninfulas had been dillrefsful to this part of the larger one •, but at prefent there was not the lcafl trace of it remaining ; the whole country was a fecne of plenty, where numbers of hogs grazed around every houfe, which none of the natives attempted to conceal from us, as they had formerly done. I was much pleafcd to obferve an alteration in the behaviour of the natives, who never once importuned us with begging for beads or nails, and who, inflcad of being backward to part with their llorc, appeared eager to out-do each other in acts of benevolence and hofpi-tality. Wc did not pafs a finglc hut, where wc were not invited to come in, and partake of fome icfrefhment ; and wc never accepted their invitation, -without being made extremely happy by their unaffected kindnefs. About ten o'clock we reached the manfion of that hofpitable man, who had entertained us fo well during our former flay on the iiland, when wc came from the hills executively fatigued *. He treated us with a few coco-nuts, and wc pro-mifed to come and dine with him on our return down the valley. He gave his directions accordingly, and accompanied us all the way. Wc found no habitations bc\ond his houfe, as the mountains on both fides approached very clofc together, and were cxccllively flccp. Having ad- Scc vol. I. p. 3$r. vanccd vanced about a mile, we came to a place where the hill on the caft fide formed a perpendicular wall, not lefs than forty yards high, beyond which it had fome inclination, and was crowned with flirubbcrics to a great height. A fine cafcade fell from this fringed part along the wall into the river, and made the fcene more lively, which in itfelf was dark, wild, and romantic. When we came nearer, we obfervcd that the perpendicular rock had many projecting longitudinal angles, and on wading through the water to it, wc found it to confiil of real columns of black compact bafaltcs, fuch as the natives manufacture into tools. They Hood upright, parallel, and joined to each other. Their diameter fccmcd not to exceed fifteen or eighteen inches, and only one or two angles of the fame pillar projected or were vifiblc. As it is now generally fuppofed that bafaltcs is a production of volcanoes, wc have here another flrong proof that Taheitce has undergone great changes by fuch fuhtcrrancous fires, where nature produces the mod wonderful chymical operations, upon a very extenfive plan. Beyond thefe columns the vale, for the fpace of two or three miles, is more and more confined by mountains, fo that we found it difficult to proceed, having been obliged to crofs the river near fifty times. At lafl we came to the fame place where Mr. Banks was obliged to ilop in his excurfion *. • Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 173, We :v7Jv. We found it equally impoflible to proceed; and being much fatigued by continually clambering over rocks and rugged ground, fet out on our return. Ry the way we collected fome plants which we had not yet fcen ; and after a walk of two hours, reached the dwelling of our hofpitable friend. We dined heartily on vegetables, and rewarded our holt with red feathers to his heart's content ; not forgetting to give him fome iron-ware, which would prove ufeful to him when the feathers were loft or dcflroycd. His daughter, whom wc had fcen on our former vifit, was now married to a man in a remote diflrict, our prefents having made her a rich heirefs in this country. Wc came on board near funfet, having rambled very leifurely through the plain of Matavai, captivated by the beauty and fertility of the profpeclj and the additional lullre which a fine evening fprcad over it. Captain Cook, with my father and fcveral officers, had been at Parre to vifit O-Too. They had been conducted to a place where a new war-canoe was building, which the king intended to call O-Taheitee. But captain Cook made him a prefent of an Englilh jack *, a grapnel, and a grapnel-rope, and defired that it might be called the Britannia. The king immediately confented, the jack was hoiiled, and the people gave three cheers. * An enfign or flag, commonly hoifteJ on the bowfprit. I re- I recommended it to Mr. Hodges to vifit the cafcade which I had found in the valley ; and accordingly the next day he went up with feveral gentlemen, and took a view of it, and of the bafalt-pillars under it. We ate of a large albecore (jcomber thynmts, Linn.) that day, which gave us all a fudden heat in the face, and a violent head-ache. Some had likewife a purging; and a fervant who had entirely dined upon it, was violently affecled with vomiting and purging. It is probable that the fifli was caught by means of fome intoxicating plant, which had perhaps communicated a noxious quality to the meat. Wc learnt about this time that Mahine had married the daughter of Topcrree, a chief of Matavai. A midfliipman acquainted us that he had been prefent on the occafion,and that he had fcen a number of ceremonies performed: but being intrcated to give the particulars, he faid, that though they were extremely curious, he could not remember one of them, and did not know how to relate them. By this means wc loll the opportunity of making a confiderablc difcovery, in regard to the cufloms of thefc illandcrs. It is pity that no intelligent obfervcr was prefent, who might at lead have related what he had lien. Mahine came on hoard with hi:, bride, who was a very young girl, of a low ilaturc, but not remarkable for beauty. She was very well {killed in the art of begging for prefents, and went through the whole fhip collecting a vail number of bc\ , V.of.. II. N nails, ISt. nails, fhirts, and red feathers, for which flie was indebted to the fricndfhip which every body felt for Mahine. This youth told us he had a great mind to ftttie at Taheitee, fmce his friends had offered him land, houfe, and property of all kinds there. lie was received into an arcc's family, cftccmcd by the king himfelf, and refpeftcd by all the people ; nay, one of his friends had given him an attendanr,or towtow, a boy who conflamly waited on him wherever he went; who punctually executed all his orders, and fecmed to be but little different from a flavc. Though Mahine had laid afide the idea of going to England, yet the lively hoy, Noona, was very defirous of vifiting that country, and fpokc to my father and fcveral other gentlemen, in the mofl urgent terms, to take him on board. As my father propofed to take him entirely at his own ex-pence, captain (look confenred immediately to his reception. The boy was however told, that he mud. never expect to come back, ftnee it was very doubtful whether another (hip would be fent to Taheitce again. Noona was too much bent upon going with us, to hcfitate a moment even at this difficulty. He rcfigncd the hope of returning to his country, for the plcafure of vifiting ours. In the evening however of the fame day captain Cook declared he would not take him on board, and he was accordingly obliged to remain at Taheitce. As it was intended to teach him the rudiments of the arts of the carpenter and fmith3 he would have have returned to his country at lead as valuable a member of focicty as O-Mai, who, after a (lay of two years in England, will be able to amufe his countrymen with the mufic of a hand-organ, and with the exhibition of a puppet-mow. We paffed feveral days in vifiting the plains of Matavai, and the extcnfivc valley of Ahonnoo, which is one of the moR fertile, and, at the fame time, mod picliurcfque, in the whole ifland. On the 6th, in the afternoon, my father and Dr. Friday 6. Sparrman went up to the hills a fecond time, and I accompanied them, in hopes of meeting with fome new plants there, fince we had entirely cxhauflcd the flora of the plains. We palled the night again in Tahea's hut, with this difference, that wc did not keep watch. Tahca was a merry humorous fellow ; and it was his conflant rcquefl to us to call him mcdua (father), and his wife o-pattea* (mother.) Wc went up early the next day, but did not care to go quite to the fummit. In the forcfl wc collected a number of new plants, and fliot a fwallow. As we fet out before fun-rife, Tahca and his brother, who went up with us, caught fome terns, which flept on the bufhes along the path. He told us that many aquatic-birds come to rcfl on the moun- * Pattia is properly a wor J <>l crulcarmenf, equivalent to our mamma. the Trthntuns liltuviU- make ulc of in the identical i'enfc that we do. This lift tains, tain?, after roaming all day over the fea in quell of food ? ami that the tropic-bird in particular has its ncil there. The long tail feathers, which it annually fheds, are commonly found there, and much fought after by the natives. Wc faw the clouds coming over the fummit, and defcending towards us; therefore, in order to keep our plants dry, wc haliened down, and at four o'clock reached the fhip, where we found the whole royal family affcmbled, and among them Ncehourai, the cldell filler of O-Too, married to T'-aree-Derrc, the fon of Ammo*. T'-aree-Watow, the king's next brother, (laid after they were all gone, and palled the night on board. To amufe him wc let off fome falfe fires at the mad-head, with which he was highly entertained. At fuppcr, he enumerated to us all his relations, and gave us fome account of the hiftory of Taheitce, which o-Mai entirely confirmed to me, after my return to England. From his information wc learned, that Ammo, Happai, and Tootahah were three brothers, and that Ammo, being the cldell, was king of all Taheitce. He married o-Poorea (Oberca) a princefs of the royal family, and had by her t'-Arce-Dcrrc, who was immediately ilyled Aree-rahaj, or king of Taheitce. During the period of Ammo's reign, captain Wallis vifucd the dland, and found o-Poori}a (Oberca) inverted with regal am * Sec vol. I. p. 358. Likewife Hiuvkcfworth, vol. II. p. 15*. 'horitys thority. About a year after his departure, a war broke out between o Ammo and his vaffai Aheatua, the king of the leffer pcninfula. Ahcatua landed at Paparra, where Ammo commonly rcfided, and after routing his forces with great flaughter, deftroyed the plantations and houfes by fire, and carried off all the hogs and poultry which he could find. Ammo and Poorca, with all their attendants, among whom o-Mai, according to his own account, was one, fled to the mountains in December 1768. At lafl the conqueror con-fented to a peace, on condition that Ammo mould entirely refign the government, and that the fucceflion mould be taken from his fon, and conferred upon 0-T00, the cldcft fon of his brother Happai. This was agreed to, and Too-tahah, the youngcfl brother of Ammo, was appointed regent. This revolution bears a great rcfcmblance to thofe which happen too frequently in the defpotic kingdoms of Alia. It is but fcldom that the conqueror dares to govern the country which he has fubdued; in general he only plunders it, and appoints another fovereign, whom lie choofca from among the royal family of the land. O-Poorca foon after quarrelled with her hufband, and frequently beat him; upon which they feparated ; he took a very handfome young woman to his bed, and flic heaped her favours on Obadce and other lovers. Some infidelity on the part of Ammo feems to have been the foundation of this quarrel. Thefe accidents, which arc not fo frequent at Taheitce as in England,, land, arc however not absolutely unufual in that ifland, (Specially when the lady has loll the charms which rendered her amiable, and yet demands the fame attention as before. An inftance fimilar to this happened on board. Polatchcra, formerly the wife of Potatow, but now fcpa-rated from him, had taken a young hufband or lover in his Head, as foon as her full lord had provided himfelf with another partner. The young m;in had an affection for a Taheitian girl, and our fhip was the place of their rendezvous. They did not however contrive their amours fo well, as to remain undifcovercd. The mafculinc Polatchcra Caught them one morning, gave her riv.d many hearty boxes on the car, and humbled the guilty lover with a fo-vcre reprimand. Captain Cook found the government of Taheitce in the hands of Twotahah, when he arrived in the v.ndeavour. After his departure Tootahah, being greatly enriched by the prefents he had obtained, perfuadei the chiefs of O-Taheitec-nuc, or the Great Pcninfula, to go againft Aheatua, whom he < ould not forgive on account of the in fuit fhewn to his family. They equipped a fleet, and went to Tiarraboo, where Ahcatua was prepared to receive them, lie was an did man % defnous to end his days in peace ; and therefore fent to Tootahah, to a flu re him that he was his friend, and always intended to continue fo ; and • Sec Havvkcfworth, vol. II. p. 158. that that he defired him to return to his country, without attacking thofe who had an affection for him. Tootahah was not diffuaded from his purpofe, but gave orders to engage. The lofs on both fides was nearly equal, but Tootahah retired, in order to attack his enemy by land. Hap-pai, with ail his family, difapproved of this flcp, and remained at o-Parre j hut Tootahah took o-Too with him, and marched to the iilhmus between the two peninfulas. Here Aheatua met him, and a pitched battle enfucd, which ended in the total di (per ft on of Tootahah's army. Tootahah himfelf was killed. Some told us lie had been taken prifonciy and was put to death afterwards ; but others, and among them o-Mai, afferted that he had been ilain in the heat of the engagement. O-Too retired precipitately to the mountains with a few chofen friends, whilft Ahcatua, with his victorious forces, immediately marched to Matavai and o-Parrc. At his arrival Happa'i retired to the mountain?, but Ahcatua fent to affurc him that he had no quarrel with him or his family, and that his with had always been for peace. Thofe on the mountain enquired in their turn concerning the fate of Tootahah and o-Too ; they heard that the former was killed, and that no body .knew what was become of the other. Soon after o-Too arrived through many difficult paffes, and over precipices, and coming down from the higheil funimits, joined his father, and all who were with him. A general peace was immediately concluded, after which ^74. which O-Too affumed the reins of government himfelf, and the van* improvements in the country, which we noticed in eight months time, feem to prove that he is a very intelligent man, who promotes the general good of his fubjects, Aheatua died foon after; and his fon of the fame name, whom we found at Aitepeha in Auguft 1773, fucceeded him. Te-aree-Watow farther acquainted us, that his faLhcr had eight children. 1. The cldell, Tedua (princefs) Ncc-houraij who fcemcd to be about thirty years old, and is married to the fon of Ammo, called T'-aree-Derre. 2. The next Tedua (princefs) Towrai, was unmarried, about fe-ven and twenty, and appeared to have almoil as great authority among the women, as the king her brother had in the whole iiland. 3. O-Too, arcc-rahai, or king of Taheitce, is about twenty-fix years of age j Ahcatua is obliged to uncover his moulders in his prefenee, as before his rightful paramount. 4. Tedua (princefs) Tchamai, who was the next to him, died young. 5. T-aree- Watow himfelf was the next in order, and appeared to be about fixtccn years of age; he told us he had another name, but which I have forgotten, from whence I conclude, that this which I have mentioned is only his title. 6. His next brother is Tubuai-terai, likewife called Mayorro, a boy of ten or eleven years old. 7. Errerctua, a little girl of feven years ; and 8. Te-paow, a boy of four or live, are the two youngcfl. A healthy, healthy, but not corpulent habit of body, and a large bufliy head of hair, were extremely chara&eriflic of the whole family. Their features in general were pleafing, but their complexions rather brown, except that of Neehou-rai and O-Too. The whole family appeared to be very much beloved among the nation, who in general are extremely fond of their chiefs. In return, their behaviour to every body was fo affable and kind, that it commanded a general good-will. Tcdua-Towrai commonly accompanied the king her brother when he came to vifit us on board ; and did not think fire demeaned hcrfelf by going to trade for red feathers among the common fail or 8, in exchange for cloths and various curiofities. She happened once to be in the cabin with O-Too, captain Cook, and my father, looking over great heaps of iron ware, and oilier articles of trade ; but the captain being called out, flic whifpered fomc-thing to her brother, who immediately endeavoured to divert my father's attention by afking fcveral queilions. My father took the hint, and the princefs believing flic was not obfervcd, concealed two large fpike-nails in the folds of her garments. When captain Cook returned, my father acquainted him with this little flratagem; but they agreed that it was moll politic not to take any notice of it. Before this time, flic had frequently cxprefled a particular defire to carry away with her one or other article of our riches, and had never been rcfufed j on the contrary, we had commonly Vol. II. O given given more than flie demanded. It was therefore extraordinary, thatflie fliould be tempted to Real that which might fo cafily have been obtained by fair means *, it fliould fcem as if flie had a flrange predilection for things acquired by Health, and for which flie was only indebted to her own ingenuity. Some of the women on board likewife accufed her of admitting towtows, or men of the lowed rank, to her bed at night privately, and unknown to her brother. In a country where the impulfes of nature are followed without reftraint, it would be extraordinary if an exception fliould be made, and £1111 more fo, if it fliould confine thofe who arc accuftomcd to have their will in mod other refpects. The paflions of mankind arc fimilar every where ; the fame inftincts are active in the flavc and the prince ; confcquently the hiftory of their effects mud ever be the fame in every country. O-Too came to the tents on Toint Venus very early in the morning, and acquainted the ferjeant of marines that one of the natives had flolcn a mufket from a ccntry, and was run off with it: he likewife difpatched Tec, his mcflen-ger, on board to fetch his brother, who obeyed the funi-mons, after breakfafting with us. As foon as they returned on fliore, O-Too, with all his family, fled to the wellward, being apprchenfrve that the mufket would be rcdemanded at their hands. Captain Cook feized feveral double travcl-ling-canocs belonging to different chiefs, and particularly that that of Maratata, who was accufed of having ordered one of his attendants to commit the theft. This chief himfelf was in his canoe, and haftened to convey it out of our reach ; but the captain firing feveral mufkets at it, Maratata and all his rowers leaped into the fea, and fwam afliore. About noon Tec came on board, and acquainted us that the thief was gone to the LelTer Peninfula, or Tiarraboo ; upon which all the canoes, except Maratata's were again rcflored to their owners. We kept quiet on board till the afternoon, having but few of the natives with us, among whom there was not one woman. Towards evening captain Cook went afhore, and foon after fome natives arrived in a mofl pro-fufc perfpiration, who brought not only the mufket, but alfo a bundle of cloaths and a two-hour-glafs, which had been flolcn about the fame time. They related, that having overtaken the thief, they had beaten him mofl fevercly, and obliged him to flicw where he had concealed the Rolen goods in the fand. Notwithflanding their appearance, wc did not give much credit to their flory, cfpecially as one of them had been fo lately fcen about the tents, that it was impoflible he could have run to any great diflancc. They received fome prefents, however, to flicw that we meant to reward their zeal in our fervicc. The next day there was no trade carried on ; but Tee came on board again, defiring the captain to vifit the king at Parre, who was matow, an ambiguous court-phrafe, exprcflmg not only that he was 0 2 afraid, mIv afraid, but that he wifhcd to be put into good humour with prefents. The captain and my father went to him, whiifl Dr. Sparrman and myfelf were put afhorc at the tents. We found the people a good deal terrified at the extraordinary fleps which had been taken, on our part,to do juflice to ourfelves. They had received flricT: orders from the king not to fell any provifions, however they treated us with coconuts and other refreshments with their ufual hofpitality. At noon we came on board, and the captain returned foon after, having ratified the friendship with O-Too. No women came on board this night, the king having prohibited it, left they fliould give occallon to complaints, by dealing TuefJay 10. from our people. However the next day they were permitted to vifit our failors again ; and with them came a number of canoes loadcn with vegetable provifions, and fome with frefli fifh. Captain Cook fent Mahine with feveral prefents to Towhah, into Atahooroo, in return for fcveral hogs which he had received. During his abfencc, O-Poorca (Oberca) once the queen of Taheitee, came on board, and prcfented two hogs to captain Cook. The fame of our red feathers had reached to the plains of Paparra, for flie told us flie was come to have fome of them. She appeared to be between forty and fifty ; her pcrfon was tall, large, and fat, and her features, which fecmed once to have been more agreeable, were now rather mafculinc. However fomc-thing of her former greatnefs remained (he had " an eye to to threaten or command V' ancl a ^rec anc^ noble deport- 1774. menr. She did not (lay long on board, probably becaufc flie felt hcrfelf of lefs confequence in our eyes than formerly. After enquiring for her friends of the Endeavour, fhe went afhorc in her canoe. O-Ammo likewife came to the fhip about this time, but was £1 ill lefs noticed than his late con-fort ; and being little known on board, was not permitted to come even into the captain's cabin. It was with difficulty that he could difpofc of his hogs, as we had now fo many on board, that wc did not care to croud the decks with more. Thefc two royal perfonages are living exam-amplcs of the inflability of human grandeur. Wc contrived fcveral diverfions for O-Too on the 12th. r. We fired our guns with round and grape-fhot acrofs the reef into the fea, at which he and a croud of feveral thoufand fpeclators were highly delighted. In the evening wc let off a few fky-rockets, and fome air-balloons, which heightened their raptures, and filled them with admiration. They looked upon us as extraordinary people, who had fires and ftars at command, and gave our fire-works the name of Heiva-Bretanneex the Britifh Fcflival. All the next day a number of people furrounded the fhip, who brought no provifions, but great quantities of cloth and curiofitics, having obfervcd that wc prepared to leave them. * Shakcfpearc. to SIv. In the afternoon we went to O-Parre with captain Cook, and found our worthy friend Towhah there with Mahine. Towhah had been dangeroufly ill of a diforder fimilar to the gout, and his legs were flill fwellcd, and exceiTtvely painful. He was however come to take leave of us, and promifed to vifit us the next morning. O-Too likewife met us there, and fpoke of fending a fupply of bread-fruit, which we valued Saturday r4. more than hogs at prefent. Early the next morning we received the vifit of a great part of the nobility of the whole ifland. Among them was Happai and all his children, except O-Too. Towhah and his wife likewife came about eight o'clock, and brought great loads of prefents of all forts to us. The good old admiral was fo ill that he could not Hand on his legs j he was very defirous however to come upon deck j wc therefore (lung a chair in ropes, and hoiflcd him up in it, to his great delight, and to the aflonilhmcnt of all his countrymen. We difcourfed on the fubjcet of the intended expedition againfl Eimeo, which he Rill affurcd us would take place foon after our departure. Notwithfland-ing his illnefs, he was determined to command the fleet in per fon, faying it was of little confequence if they killed an old man, who could no longer be ufeful. He was very chearful under his infirmities, and his way of thinking was nobly difintcreflcd, and fecmed to be animated by true he-roifm. He took leave of us with a degree of cordiality and emotion, which touched the heart, and might have reconciled died a mifanthrope to the world. Mahine, who came on £S. board with him, refolved to go with us to Raietea, to vifit his relations and friends in the Society Iflands, and then to return to Taheitee, as foon as he fliould meet with an opportunity. He confidcred, that having poffeflions in feveral of thofe iflands, it was his intcreft to return thither, and to difpofe of them to the greateft advantage. He introduced to captain Cook feveral natives of Borabora, one of which was his brother; they dcfircd a paflage to the Society Iflands, which captain Cook readily granted. With a degree of exultation, he imparted to us in confidence, that he had fliarcd O-Poorca's bed the lafl night; this he cflecmed as a great honour and mark of eminence, and flicwed us fcveral pieces of the bell cloth, which flie had prcfented to him. O-Poorca was therefore not too old to rclifh fenfual gratifications even in a warm climate, where the cpocha of maturity feems to happen at a much earlier age than in colder countries, and where of courfe every flage of human life might be fuppofed to have only a proportionate duration. O-Too not being arrived on board, we went to vifit him once more, and to view fome war-canoes which samrd* u. lay at Parrc. We found only forty-four, all which belonged to Tittaha, the fmallell diftrict in the north-weft pcninfula of Taheitee. O-Too ordered lomc military evolutions to be made before us, which were performed with great dexterity. The chiefs were all drcflcd in their habits* habits, and had targets, but no helmets. There were alfo fome little boys, who wore the drelTes, and parried the fpcars with as great agility as grown peo-pie. Their method was to rell the point of a fpear or long battle-axe on the ground before them, fo that it made an angle of about 15 or 30 deg. with the ground. With the other end, which they held in their hand, they contrived to keep the fpear always in the middle, right before the body. By this means the fpear of the adverfary always Hid off on one fide or the other, without ever coming near the body. Some of the canoes likewife performed part of their manoeuvre. They came fmgly one after another through the narrow entrance of the reef; but as foon as they were within, they formed in a line, and joined clofe together. On the middlcmoft canoe there was a man placed behind the fighting flage, who gave fignals with a green branch to the rowers, cither to paddle to the right or left. The movement in confequcncc of his command was in perfect tunc, and fo very regular, that it fccmcd as if all the paddlc3 were parts of the fame machine which moved fome hundred arms at once. This man might be compared to the KsXzvrqc in the fhips of the ancient Greeks 1 indeed, the view of the Tahcitian fleet frequently brought to our mind an idea of the naval force which that nation employed in the fir (I ages of its cxidcncc, and induced us to compare them together. The Greeks were doubtlcfs better armed, having having the ufe of metals; but it fecmed plain, from the writings of Homer, in fpight of poetical embellifhment, that their mode of fighting was irregular, and their arms fimple, like thofe of Taheitee. The united efforts of Greece againfl Troy, in remote antiquity, could not be much more conftdcrable than the armament of O-Too againfl the ifle of Eimeo; and the boafled milk carina, were probably not more formidable than a fleet of large canoes, which require from fifty to an hundred and twenty men to paddle them. The navigation of the Greeks in thofe days was not more cxtcnfive than that which is practifed by the Tahcitians at prefent, being confined to fliort paflagcs from ifland to iiland; and as the flars at night directed the mariners through the Archipelago at that time, fo they flill continue to guide others in the Pacific ocean. The Greeks were brave; but the numerous wounds of the Tahcitian chiefs, are all proofs of their fpirit and prowefs. It feems to be certain, that in their battles they rouze themfclves into a kind of phrenzy, and that their bravery is a violent fit of paflion. from Homer's battles it is evident, that the he-roifm which produced the wonders he records, was exactly of the fame nature. Let us for a moment be allowed to carry this comparifon Hill farther. The heroes of Homer arc reprcfentcd to us as men of fupcrnatural fize and force. The Taheitian chiefs, compared to the common people, arc fo much fupcrior in flature and elegance of form, that Vol. II. P they they look like a different race*. It requires a more than ordinary quantity of food to fatisfy ftomachs of unufual di-mcnfions. Accordingly we find, that the mighty men at the fiege of Troy, and the chiefs of Taheitee, are both famous for eating ; and it appears that pork was a diet no lefs admired by the Greeks, than it is by the Tahcitians at this day. Simplicity of manners is obfcrvable in both nations; and their domellic character alike is hofpitablc, affectionate, and humane. There is even afimilarity in their political con-ilitution. The chiefs of dillricts at Taheitee are powerful princes, who have not more refpect for O-Too, than the Greek heroes had for the n King of men ;'' and the common people are fo little noticed in the Iliad, that they appear to have had no greater confequence, than the towtows in the South Sea, In fliort, I believe the fimilitude might be traced in many other inftances; but it was my intention only to hint at it, and not to abufe the patience of my readers. What I have here faid is fufficient to prove, that men in a fimilar Rate of civilization rcfemblc each other more than we are aware of, even in the moll oppofite extremes of the world. 1 fliould be forry to have made thefe llight remarks, if they mould unfortunately lead fome learned fchemer on a wrong fecnt. The itch of tracing the pedigree * M. de Bougainville has been led by this difference of appearance to aflerfy that they were really two different races. Sec his Voyage round the World, p. 2+9. of of nations has lately made fuch havock in hiftory, by endeavouring to combine the Egyptians and Chinefe, that the learned mud finccrcly wifh, it may never become a contagious diilcmper. O-Too came on board, and dined with us for the lad time. He propofed to my father and Mr. Hodges to day at Taheitce, and promifed very ferioufly to make them arees or chiefs of the rich did rift s of Parre and Matavai. Whether he had any intereded motives for this propofal, or whether it came merely from the fullnefs of his heart, I cannot determine. As foon as the dinner was over wc weighed our anchor, and fct fail. O-Too requeded the cap. tain to fire fome cannon, and was the laft Taheitian who flcppcd into his canoe, afrcr cordially embracing us all. The noifc of the cannon, by dunning our cars in fome mcafure, diverted our thoughts from taking that melancholy turn which is natural on thefe occafions. It prevented our giving a loofe to the foft feelings with which the worth of this fimplc and beneficent nation had infpired us; but it was a favourable opportunity for one of our fea-men to make his efcape to the ifland. He was obfervcd fvviniming towards the fhorc, and fome canoes were fcen paddling to his a/liflancc, when we difpatched a boat which brought him back, much againd his inclinations. His frolic cod him a fortnight's confinement in irons. There is great rcafon to fuppofe that a plan was concerted between him and P 2 the the natives, who perhaps had promifed themfclves as great advantages from retaining an European, as that European might expect by dwelling with them. If we fairly confi-dcr the different fituations of a common failor on board the Refolution, and of a Taheitian on his ifland, we cannot blame the former, if he attempted to rid himfelf of the numberlcfs difcomforts of a voyage round the world, and preferred an cafy life, free from cares, in the happicfl climate of the world, to the frequent viciflitudcs which are entailed upon the mariner. The mofl favourable profpects of future fuccefs in England, which he might form in idea, could never be fo flattering to his fenfes, as the lowly hope of living like the meancfl Tahcitian. It was highly probable, that immediately on his return to England, in-flead of indulging in rcpofc thofe limbs which had been toiTed from pole to pole, he would be placed in another fhip-, where the fame fatigues, nocturnal watches, and un-wholefome food, would llill fall to his fliare; or though he were allowed to folace himfelf for a few days, after a long ferics of hardfhips, he mud expect to be feized in the midfl of his enjoyments, and to be dragged an unwilling champion to the defence of his country : to be cut off in the flower of his age, or to remain mifcrably crippled, with only half his limbs, might be the alternatives to which he would be reduced. But fuppofmg he could efcapc thefc misfortunes, dill he mud earn his fubfutencc in England, at the expence of labour, and " in the fweat of bis brow," JJJ£ when this eldefl curfe on mankind is fcarcely felt at Taheitce. The drudgery of our country people is continual, and their exertion of Rrength very violent. Before they can make the leaf! ufe of corn, they muff undergo the various labours of ploughing, reaping, thrafhing, and grinding. They are obliged to cultivate an hundred times more than they can confume, in order to fupport a breed of animals, whofe afTiltance in hufbandry is abfolutely neceilary j and to pay for the liberty of tilling the ground, for the articles of drefs indifpcnfable in a raw climate ; for their tools, and a variety of things, which they might cafily make with their own hands, if agriculture alone did not engrofs their time and attention. The tradefman, the manufacturer, the artifl, all arc obliged to work with equal afliduity, in order to furnifh the goods, in return for which the farmer gives them bread. How different from this, how indolent is the life of the Tahcitian ! Two or three bread-fruit trees, which grow almofl without any culture, and which flourifh as long as he himfelf can expect to live, fupply him with abundant food during three-fourths of the year. The fu-pcrfluity is fermented and prefcrved, as a wholcfome, nou-riihing and palatable bread, for the remaining months. Thofe plants which require the grcatcft attendance at Taheitce, the cloth-trccs and eddo-roots, arc cultivated with much much lei's trouble than our cabbages and kitchen-herbs, though their ufes are infinitely more extenfive. The whole piocefs ncccflary to plant a bread-tree, is to break off a found branch, and flick it in the ground. The banana, whofc rich chillers fcem too great a weight for the herbaceous (lem, annually fhoots afrelli from the root. The royal palm, at once the ornament of the plain, and a ufeful gift of nature to its inhabitants ; the golden apple, whofe falutary effects we have fo flrongly experienced, and a number of other plants, all thrive with fuch luxuriance, and require fo little trouble, that I may venture to call them fpontaneous. The manufacture of drefs is an agreeable paflimc for the women, and the building of houfes and canoes, with the making of tools and arms, arc occupations which become amufing by being voluntary, and intended for the more immediate ufe of the artificers. Mofl of their days arc therefore fpent in a round of various enjoyments, in a country where nature has lavifhed many a plcafmg landfcapc ; where the temperature of the air is warm, but continually rcfrefhed by a wholcfome breeze from the fea ; and where the fky is almoll conflant ly fcrcne. This climate, and its falubrious productions, contribute to the flrcngth and the elegance of their form. They arc all well-proportioned, and fome would have been felccted by Phidias or Praxiteles, as models of mafculine beauty. Their features features are fweet, and unruffled by violent pailions. Their large eyes, their arched eyebrows, and high, forehead, give a noble air to their heads, which are adorned by Rrong beards, and a comely growth of hair *. Thefe, as well as their beautiful teeth, are the proofs of vigour, and of a found habit of body. The fex, the partners of their felicity, are likewife well-formed ; their irregular charms win the heart of their countrymen, and their unaffected fmiles, and a wifli to pleafc, infure them mutual efleem and love. A kind of happy uniformity runs through the whole life of the Tahcitians. They rife with the fun, and haflcn to rivers and fountains, to perform an ablution equally reviving and cleanly. They pafs the morning at work, or walk about till the heat of the day incrcafes, when they retreat to their dwellings, or rcpofe under fome tufted tree. There they amufc themfclves with fmoothing their hair, and anoint it with fragrant oils j or they blow the flute, and ftng to it, or liftcn to the fongs of the birds. At the hour of noon, or a little later, they go to dinner. After their meals they re-fume their domeftic amufemcnts, during which the flame of mutual all'cetion fprcads in every heart, and unites the rifiog generation with new and tender tics. The lively * It has been faid by other navigators, that ihcy eradicate the hair of the upper-lip, the brcail: and arm-pits ; but this is by no means a general cuflom. Tkc chiefs in particular, and the king himfelf, prefervc their whifkers. jeft, Hit. jeft, without any ill-nature, the artlefs tale, the jocund dance and frugal fupper, bring on the evening; and another vifit to the river concludes the actions of the day. Thus contented with their fimple way of life, and placed in a delightful country, they are free from cares, and happy in their ignorance. Ihr leben flieflct verborgen, Wie klarc bache tlurch blumen dahin, KLEIST. It muff be allowed, that thefc advantages arc decifivc with thofe, who have nothing fo much at heart as the gratification of their fenfes. No wonder then that a failor, perhaps lefs guided by rcafon than the reft, of his comrades, fliould hurry on headlong after the plcafures of the prefent moment. It is certain, at the fame time, that being ^ born and bred up in an active fphcre of life, acquainted with number lefs fubjects, utterly unknown to the Tahcitians, and accuftomcd to extend his thoughts to paft and future occurrences, he would fhortly have been tired of an uninterrupted tranquility and continual famenefs, fuited only to a people whofc notions arc fimple and confined. The ideas of happinefs are infinitely various in different nations, according to their manners, principles, and degrees of civilization. As the productions and apparent good qualities lities of our globe, are either profufely or fparingly distributed, on its different parts, the diverfity of human opinions is a convincing proof of that paternal love, and unerring wifdom, which, in the plan of this world, has provided for the good of mankind, alike in the torrid and the frigid zone. Fix'd to no fpot is happincfs fincere, 'Tis no where to be found, or ev'ry where. Pope. Vol. II. CHA P, MfVY, CHAP, VII. The fccond flay at the Society Iflands. Brifk gale carried us fwifily from Taheitce. Wc •* were Rill buficd in contemplating its beautiful feencry, when an unexpected object on our own decks attracted our attention. This was no other than one of the fincR women whom we had fecn in the country, and who had rcfolvcd to go with us to Raietea (Ulictca), her native iiland. Her parents, from whom flie had eloped to Taheitee with a favoured lover fome years ago, were Rill alive, and the force of affection urged her irrefillibly to vifit them. She was by no means apprehenfivc of their anger, but on the contrary expected a kind reception. The little youthful errors of the heart arc cafily forgiven, where intcrcR and ambition have fo little fway. She had concealed herfelf on board during O-Too's lad vifit, as he had cxprefsly ordered that no woman fliould go with us j but being fife at prefent, flie ventured to make her appearance. Mahinc's brother, his fervant, and two other natives of Borabora, likewife took a paflage with us, confidently relying on a people who had fo faithfully brought one of their countrymen back again, and who had endeavoured to flicw him every kindnefs in their their power. Their company gave life to our converfation, 3$t and fhortened the day of our palTage to Huahine. The girl was dreffed in a fuit of cloaths belonging to one of the officers, and was fo much pleafed with her new garments, that flie went afliore in them as foon as fhe arrived at that ifland. She dined with the officers, without the leaf! fcruple, and laughed at the prejudices of her countrymen with all the good fenfe of a citizen of the world. With a proper education flie might have (hone as a woman of genius even in Europe; fince, without the advantage of a cuhivatcd understanding, her great vivacity joined to very polite manners, already were fufficient to make her company fupportable. Wc failed on all night; and the next morning, at day Saturday^, break, the ifland of Huahine was in fight. In the afternoon wc came to an anchor in the northern branch of Wharrc harbour, where wc lay not more than fifty yards from tjie fhorc. Wc were vifited by fome of the natives, who brought hogs to fell, but demanded hatchets in return, which were now fo fcarce on board, that we referved them for great occafions. Orcc, the regent of the ifland, came to us before funfet in a fmall canoe, and brought a hog and a target of war to captain Cook, for which he received a fuit-able prefent. He gave us fome pepper-roots this time, but without any of the ceremonies obfervcd at our former vifit q_z to to the ifland *; In the evening we had a perfect calm, and were highly delighted with viewing and hearing the natives, who fat in their houfes along the Ihorc, around their candles, which are oily nuts Ruck on a flender Rick. One of the firit who came on board the next day was Porca, the Tahcitian youth, who had left that ifland with us eight months ago, but had withdrawn himfelf from us at Raietea. He told us, it was by no means with his confent that he (laid behind. Having an amour with a pretty girl, flie had appointed a rendezvous, to which he had haRened, after delivering the powder-horn to captain Cook. On bis arriving at the place appointed with his fair miftrefs, Ire had been attacked by her father, with fome attendants, who had Rripped him of his European cloaths, beaten him foundly, and confined him till after our departure. He had then taken the firft opportunity of crofling over to Huahine, where he had been fupportcd by the hofpitality of fcveral friends, fo that he was now in a very good plight. Prom his ftory we may gather, that the people of thefe iflands do not always permit their daughters to follow their own inclinations ; though according to our ideas, Porea's attempt did not authorife the father to rob him of his cloaths. Wc went on fhore early, and rambled to the lagoons, which the fea forms to the northward of the harbour. * See vol. I. p, 376. We We found them furrounded by fwamps, filled with variety of Ear! Indian plants ; and their iliores confirmed of a flimy mud, which, from its appearance, and fetid fmell, we thought to be of the fame nature and qualities with hepar fulphnris. There were great flocks of ducks upon the lagoon ; but we found it difficult to approach them, as we funk into the mud, whenever we ventured to walk through it. The profpect which this piece of water forms, is however extremely pleafing and piclurefque. The flanking effluvia of the lagoons are probably efleemed unwholefomc, as wc obfervcd but very few houfes on their banks. On the fea fide they arc inclofed by a narrow coral ledge covered with fand, a little elevated, along which we found great number of coco-nut palms. The marines flope down from this immediately to the flagnant water. We were entertained by one of the natives with coco-nuts, which were at prefent very fcarce upon the ifland. In returning home our fervant, who carried a bag with plants, and another with iron tools, was knocked down a few yards behind us, and would have been robbed, if wc had not turned back by chance ; but at fight of us the thieves ran off. This was the fecond time that our people were thus boldly attacked by the narives of Huahine, who feem, upon the whole, to be more licentious under the infirm government of old Orce, than thofe of Taheitce, and of the other Society Iflands. This This old chief appeared to be much more indolent at this time than at our firft vifit, and his intellects fccmcd to be confiderably impaired. His eyes were red and inflamed, and his whole body lean and fcaly. Wc were not long at a lofs to account for this change, having obfervcd that he was now much addicted to the intoxicating pepper-draught, of which he drank great quantities, prepared cxceflivcly Rrong. Mahine had the honour of drinking with him for fcveral nights together, and received fuch a ihare of his naufcous beverage, that he commonly awoke the next morning with a violent hcad-achc. Wc made another excurfion to the fame place the next day, and brought back a number of corals, (hells, and echini, which the natives had gathered for us on the fca-fhorc. We received prefents of hogs and targets from different chiefs, who came on purpofc to vifit their old acquaintances, and would not fell or part with their goods, till they faw their friend for whom they were dcllincd. The next day wc took a walk up one of the hills, which is every where planted with bread-trees, pepper and mulberry-trees, yams and eddocs. The mulberry or cloth-trees were cultivated with particular attention ; the ground between them was carefully weeded, and manured with broken decayed fhclls dnd coral, and the whole plantation furrounded with a deep furrow or channel, in order to drain it. In many places they had burnt away ferns and vaiious various fhrubs, in order to prepare the ground for future plantations. At a conliderable height upon the hill we found a houfe, the inhabitants of which, an old woman and her daughter, hofpitably entertained us. We gave them feveral beads and nails, and fome red feathers, which la ft were rather accepted as a curioflty, than as things of great value. This opinion was general among the people at Huahine; they wanted hatchets in exchange for their hogs, and fmaller iron tools for other provifions, and as we were well flocked with animals, we did not like their price, though it was the fame which we had formerly given. Since red feathers have really no intrinfic value, and are only ufed for ornament, we have another convincing proof of the fupcrior affluence and luxury of the Tahcitians, in the great eagcrnefs which they expreffed to purchafc them. The difference is obvioufly owing to the excellence of their country, compared to Huahine, where the ambient plain is fo narrow and inconfiderable, that the natives are obliged to cultivate the hills. Several bold thefts were committed, during the following days, by the natives, for which it was not in our power to obtain redrefs. Some other attempts however were pu-nifhed. A party of petty officers were gone to take the di-verfion of mooting on a hill, and had a marine with them, who carried fome hatchets and nails in a bag. A native who attended them, feeing that their fowling-pieces milled fire yilr. fire fcveral times, took his opportunity, when the marine had laid down his bundle, to match it up, and ran off with it. The day after the gentlemen went to fee a hciva or public dance, and luckily found the thief among the fpec-tators. Lie confeffed his mifdemeanour, but promii ;d, if they would pardon him, to bring them fome targets in return, which were always reckoned equivalent to our hatchets. They were contented with his fuhmiflion, and the man punctually kept his word the next day; which fhews that he was by no means to be compared to our hardened fin-ncrs, but was fully fcnfiblc of the generous treatment which he had met with. Another attempted to Real a powder-horn, but he was detected, and requited by blows. Even the poor girl, who came on board at Taheitce, tempted them by wearing an European drefs. A number of natives fet upon her in a houfe, when Arc was lcaft aware of it, and began to ftrip off her cloaths ; when fome of our people fortunately came by, who put the thieves to flight. This accident frightened her fo much, that flie never ventured out of the fhip alone for the future. Thuifday i9. On the 1 pth we took a walk towards the long inlet, where Dr. Sparrman had been robbed about eight months before. The weather was rainy at firft, and the fliowcrs became fo feverc, that wc retreated into a fmall hut, to prevent our being wetted to the ikin. Wc found here a friendly family, who immediately offered us fome frefh bread- bread-fruit and fome fifhes to eat, that being always the firfl mark of hofpitality among the inhabitants of the South Sea. An elderly woman, of fome note, had likewife taken Ihelter under the fame roof, with one of her attendants, who led a hog to her home. As we fet out together, when the fliowcr was over, the good woman prefented the hog to us, and invited us to her houfe, which lay at a confi-dcrablc diftancc. We croflcd the hill, and defcended to the fea fhorc on the oppofite fide of the iiland. Our way was extremely llippcry ; but wc collected a number of plants which had novelty to recommend them. The weather changed before we reached the plain below, and became delightfully fair. Wc found a bay, with an extcnfive fhoal of coral, and a fmall iflct, where great flocks of wild-ducks, curlews, and fnipes rcfidcd. Wc received feveral refreshments from the natives, which ovir friendly old lady endeavoured to procure. After wc had amufed ourfelves for fome time with fhooting, we croflcd the hills in another direction, and palling through a fine valley, well inhabited, and rich in all forts of plantations, wc came to the woman's dwelling on the fea fhorc. Here wc found an old man, her hufband, and a large family, fome of whom were grown up. She treated us with flewed fowls, bread-fruit, and coco-nuts, and then fent us in her own canoe to the Ihip, Which lay about five miles off by fea, but at leaf! twice as far by land. There was a kind of afliduity to ferve us Vol.11. R in HI*- in this good woman's behaviour, which 1 had not often experienced in thofe numerous inftanccs of hofpitaluy, daily obvious to the flranger in the South Sea iflands. It is a mofl convincing proof of the excellence of the human heart, in its fimple flatc, before ambition, luxury, and various other pafllons have corrupted ir. ,yao. Wc flaid on board the next day till the afternoon, and then went afliorc with captain Cook to a long houfe, which was a common receptacle, or carvanfera, for many families, who travelled thither in ordered to be near us. Wc found feveral inferior chiefs there; but Orcc was gone to a different part of the iiland. After convcrfing with them for fome time, feveral natives arrived, who brought an account that our firfl and fecond lieutenant, with one of the mates, had been dripped by feveral robbers. A great number of the inhabitants immediately fled, and all who remained expreffed flrong marks of fear. We could not colled: with certainty, from the information of different people, whether our officers had been beaten or killed ; the Taheitian word, matte, cxprefling both thefe ideas. Wc were however foon relieved from this Rate of fufpenfe, by the appearance of the gentlemen, perfectly fafe, with their anna and cloaths. They informed us, that having been fhooting near the lagoons, they had been attacked unawares by fome of the natives, who, upon their rcfufing to part with their fowling-pieces, had beaten them, and wrcflcd thofe arms out out of their hands j that a chief happening to pafs by during the flrugglc, had come to their amilance, and had effected the recovery of every article which had been taken from them. We returned on board together, and obferved that the natives forfook the adjacent country. The next morning early, Mahine, who had flcpt on fhorc, brought a meffage from Oree to captain Cook, importing that there were thirteen offenders, whom he could not punifli without the captain's afliftance: he requcflcd him therefore to fend twenty-two armed men, which he cxprcfled by the fame number of fmall flicks, and promifed to join them with fome of his own warriors, who fliould go out to chaf-tife the rebels. Captain Cook went on fhore with Mahine, in order to be more fully affurcd of Orcc's intention; but not undcrllanding enough of the language, he received very little intelligence. As foon as he returned on board, he confultcd with the officers ; and, on this occaflon, the fecond lieutenant ingenuoufly confeffed that they themfclves had been the aggrcilbrs, and had drawn upon them the feverc revenge which the natives had taken. One of them having fliot a couple of ducks in the lagoon, dcfired a native, who attended him, to fetch them out of the water. The man, who hul repeatedly done him this good office before, retufed to fuve as a Qpaniel any longer. Our officer beat him, however, till he went in, and worked himfelf through the mud with great agility, in a motion between R 2 fwiturning fw burning and walking. When he had reached the ducks> which lay at a confiderable diftance from the fhore, he fwaro off with them to the opposite fide of the lagoon, perhaps confcious that he deferved them for the trouble he had taken. As this did not agree with the feaman's intentions, he loaded his mufket with ball, and fired, but fortunately miffed him. He was preparing to load again, when the croud about him, feeing the life of their countryman fo wantonly fportcd with, feized his arms. Lie called to his companions for help, but they were likewife furrounded ; and though one of them fired a load of fliot into the thighs of a native, this only exafperatcd them the more; fo that he was beaten and bruifed without mercy. Mahine's attendant, or fervant, a flout youth, of a very low ftature, accompanied our gentlemen, and fought defperatcly in their favour, but was overpowered by numbers. After this con-feflion, the cafe was greatly altered; however, the captain rcfolved to qucilion Orce once more, and to that purpofc defired my father to accompany him to the fhorc, being convinced that no pcrfon on board was at this time fo well verfed in the language of the country. They foon learnt from Oree, that he intended wc llrould march to the dwellings of the natives who had thus done themfclves juflicc, and who fecmed to have withdrawn themfclves even from his power; and that he wifhed to take all their goods and hogs, and give them to us. Captain Cook returned to the fliip, fhip, and felected a party of forty-feven Europeans, including the officers, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf j not indeed to reduce the rebellious fubjects of Oree to their duty, who had fo much reafon to complain of injuflice from our people, but perhaps to fhew that he did not entirely approve of their conduct. We landed, and marched with Oree and a few of the natives towards the diftrict where the robbery was committed. In proportion as we advanced, the croud at our heels encreafed in number to> feveral hundreds, and took up arms in the neighbouring houfes. Oree himfelf wielded a fpear ten feet long, with a barbed tail of Ring-ray at the point. We halted at the diftance of about two miles, and were now acquainted by Mahine that the natives had formed the plan of furround-ing and cutting us off. Oree was defirous to flay behind y but captain Cook perfuaded him and a few other chiefs to go with us, whilft the reft of the croud were ordered to proceed no further, under pretence, that in cafe of an engagement, we mould not be able to ditlinguifli friends from foes. We marched about three miles to a place where the path divided ; wc chofe that which led acrofs a very fteep rock, in preference to another at the foot of it. Steps were cut in the rock on the oppolite fide, where we defcended again on the plain. This pafs was fo dangerous, that captain Cook propofed to leave a detachment of his petty army here ; but feeing that the croud advanced llowly after him, in fpite of Oree's or- derSj ders, he refolved to return, and declared to the natives that the enemy was too far off to be purfued. We came back to a fpacious houfe, about halfway to the fhip, where Oree regaled us with coco-nuts. Whilit we remained there, fome of the natives brought feveral banana Ralks, two dogs, and a pig. They prcfented them to the captain, holding a long fpeech on the occafion, which was moflly unintelligible, but fecmed to relate to the affair that had brought us into the field. A large hog was fhewn to us at the fame time, but inRcad of being prcfented, it was led off again, from hence we reached the fea fhorc oppofite the fhip about noon, and then fired our mufkets in platoons over the fea. This manoeuvre furprifed the natives prodigioufly, as it convinced them that wc could keep up a conflant fire, of which they had no idea before, and fhewed them to what vafl diflanccs our balls could be projected. Thus ended our warlike expedition, to die wilh of a few individuals amongfl us, who had too great an affection for all their brethren, to defire their deflruction. It was not fo fat is factory to others, who, inured to the horrid fcencs of war and bloodflied, had acquired, by force of habit, a deteftable cagcrnefs to try their fkill in fhooting at men, rather than at a mark ! Wc faw but few natives about the fhip all the next afternoon ; fome fruit was however exchanged for fmall nails. Our friends vifitcd us the next morning, with many prefents of different forts. One of them, a chief, named Mo- rurua, nif.ua, had tingled out my father as his friend, and came gj* with his wife and family to fee us. Several articles were diftributcd to them, in return for thofe which the chief had brought; but he thought our prefent fo much more valuable than his, that he fecmed quite enchanted, and his eyes with peculiar eloquence expreffed a lively fenfe of gratitude. He returned therefore to us again the next morning, when Mondays wc were getting under fail, and after loading us with new prefents, diffolved in tears at parting. We left the three friends of Mahine on this idand, but had taken on board another native, who was fent from Oree with a meflagc to O-Pooncc, the king of Borabora. This ambaffador appeared to be a very ftupid fellow ; we could not however dive into the fecrct of his million, nor were any of us folicitous about it. Llis name was Hurree-hurrec, which, in its Englifh acceptation, feemcd to be remarkably well chofen for a meffenger. The next day before noon we anchored in the entrance of Tucfd Hamaneno harbour, on the ifland of Raietea, and fpent the red of the day, till after fumfet, in warping the fhip into the bafon. The chief O-Rca came on board, and fecmed highly delighted with our return. The appearance of Mahine and Hurree doubtlefs ftrengthened his good opinion of us, and infpircd all his people with confidence. We went on Ihore to his houfe with captain Cook the next morning, 1 Wed nefd. and were met by his wife and his daughter Poyadua. The wife tvuy W^e cut ncr ncac* a mar^s toom» ana" received the blood on a bit of cloth ; and both wept and fobbed aloud together for fome time. However when they had concluded this ceremony, they were as merry as if nothing had happened. We were confined to his houfe by heavy fliowcrs of rain till noon, when we returned to the fliip, which was now brought into a narrow creek, where fhc lay clofe to the more, for the convenience of watering. We walked along this creek in the afternoon, as far as the intermittent fliowcrs would permit. The fhore was lined with innumerable canoes, whilft every houfe and (lied was crouded with people, many of whom were preparing large and luxurious dinners, from heaps of provifions which were every where accumulated. We were told that a peculiar fociety or order of perfons of both fcxes, named Ar« rcoy, cxiftcd in thefc iflands ; and that they nfTcmblcd at times from all parts, and travelled througji all the iflands, fcalling and caroufing to excefs. During the time wc lay at Huahine, we had obferved no lefs than feventy canoes, with more than feven hundred of thefe arrcoys on board, croiling over to Raictca in one morning. We were told that they had fpent a few days on the call fide of the ifland, and were arrived on its wellcrn fliore only a day or two before us. We took notice that they were all perfons of fome con-fequence, and of the race of chiefs. Some of the men were punctured in large broad blotches j and Mahine allured us, thefc thefe were the moft eminent members of the fociety, and that the more they were covered with punctures, the higher was their rank. They were in general Rout and well made, and all profeffed themfelves warriors. Mahine had a very high veneration for this fociety, and told us he himfelf was a member. They are united by the ties of reciprocal friendfhip, and exercife hofpitality towards each other in its greateft latitude. As foon as an arreoy vifits another, though he were unknown to him, he is fure to have his wants fupplicd, and his defnes gratified ; he is introduced to other members of the order, and they vie with each other in loading him with carefTes and prefents. It was to this principle that Mahine afcribed all the plcafures which he had enjoyed at Taheitce. The firfl people who faw him on board were arreoys according to his account, and in that quality made him a prefent of their garments, fince he had no other than European cloaths. It appears, that one or more perfons of each little family of chiefs enter into this community, of which the invariable and fundamental character is, that none of its members are permitted to have any children. From the accounts of the moft intelligent among the natives, wc have great room to fuppofe, that the original inflitution required their living in perpetual celibacy, As this law was too repugnant to the impulfes of nature, which mull be uncommonly llrong in their climate, they foon tranfgrefled it; but preferred the intention of the Vol. II. S pre- prefcribcd abftinence, by fuiTocating their unfortunate oil-fpring immediately after birth. The arreoys enjoy feveral privileges, and are greatly re-fpecled throughout the Society Iflands and Taheitce; nay,, they claim a great fhare of honour from the very circum-Rance of being childlefs. Tupaya, when he heard that the king of England had a numerous offspring, declared he thought himfelf much greater, becaufe he belonged to the arreoys*. In mofl other countries the name of a parent gives honour and rcfpecT.; but when an arreoy, at Taheitce, emphatically beftows it, it is meant as a term of contempt and reproach. The arreoys keep great meetings at Rated times, travelling from one ifland to another. They feafl on the choicer! vegetables, and on plenty of pork, dog's flefh, fifh, and poultry, which is liberally furnifhed by the towtows, or lower clafs, for their entertainment. The peppcr-root drink is prepared and fwallowcd in furpriflng quantities on thefe occafions. Wherever they go, the train of fenfual plcafure waits upon them. They are amufed with mufic and dances, which arc faid to be particularly lafcivious at night, when no other fpectators befidcs themfclves arc admitted. In a country fo far emerged from barbarifm as Taheitee, it cannot be fuppofed that a fociety would have maintained: • This anecdote I have heard from captain Cook in conveiTation. itfclf \ itfelf to the prefent time, which appears fo injurious to the may" reft of the nation, unlefs its advantages were fo confider-able, as to require its continuance. Two reafons feem to favour the cxiftcncc of arreoys, and both are in fome meafure connected together. The firft appears to be the necefifty of entertaining a body of warriors, to defend their fellow-citizens from the invafions and depredations of enemies* This is confirmed by the circumftancc, that all the arreoys are warriors ; but as love might be fuppofed to enervate them, they were reftrained to that celibacy, which they have fincc found it too difficult to obferve. The fecond reafon for the affociation of the arreoys, fcems to be to prevent the too rapid propagation of the race of chiefs. An intelligent man, who perhaps was once the law-giver of Taheitce, might forefee, that the common people would at length groan under the yoke of this numerous and ever-multiplying breed of petty-tyrants *. To oblige a part of them to a fingle life, was the fliorteft means of obtaining this end ; but certain glaring advantages were to be held out, to make them fubmit without reluctance to fuch a rcftraint. From hence wc may derive that high cfteem with which the whole nation honours the order of arreoy ; and likewife account for their authority, and for their gluttony in eating, which has been the privilege of warriors in every country, * Sec vol. I. p. 367. S 2 before before they became the tools of tyranny. When the arreoys had once fo far departed from the laws of their firft inilitution, as to admit the commerce with the fex, it is eafy to conceive, that, by infenfible degrees, they have almoft wholly loft the original chafte and fober fpirit of the order. They are at prefent, without doubt, the moft luxurious fet of people in the ifland j though I have not found the lcafl rcafon to charge them with a refinement in voluptuoufncfs, which is at once improbable, and inconfift-cnt with the tendcrnefs of the wdiole people. We have been told a wanton tale of promifcuous embraces, where every woman is common to every man : but when wc enquired for a confirmation of this flory from the natives, we were foon convinced that it muft, like many others, be con-fidercd as the groundlcfs invention of a traveller's gay fancy. Some arreoys arc married to a woman, in the fame mam ner as Mahine was to the daughter of Topcrrcc *; but others keep a temporary miflrcfs. Many may perhaps revel in the arms of fcveral proflitutcs, which arc to be met with in all the iflands. This diffolutc plcafurc is however much more frequent in every civilized country of Europe, but I apprehend it would not authorifc an aftcrtion, that in Europe there cxifts a fociety of men and women, who prac- * Sec page 89. tife rife a particular refinement of fenfuality *, When we confidcr the whole character of the Tahcitians j when we recoiled their gentlcncfs, their generofity, their affectionate fricndihip, their tendernefs, their pity, wtc cannot reconcile thefe qualities to the murder of their own offspring. Wc fhuddcr at the flcrn inhumanity of the father, but much more fo at the obdurate heart of the mother, where the voice of nature, and of powerful inftinft, mould cry aloud for mercy and protection. The paths of virtue are but too eafily forfaken ; flill we are at a lofs to conceive, how a people fo much left to nature, could arrive at fuch a dcteflablc pitch of depravity : but cuflom, That monfter cuftom, who all fcnfctloth eat Of habits evil---— - Shakespeare. gradually blunts every feeling, and overcomes the Rings of rcmorfc. We had no fooner learnt that fuch an unnatural and barbarous practice (ligmatizcd the fociety of arreoy, than we reprehended our young friend Mahine for valuing himfelf on being a member of fuch a detcftablc body. We endeavoured to point out the immorality and cruelty of this practice, and made ufe of every argument which our reflections could furnifli, or our words cxprefs. Wc eafily fuccecdcd in convincing him, and obtained a promifc that he would not kill his children, but feparate from the fo-- ♦ Sec Hawkcfwoith, vol. II. p. 207, &c. cicty cicty as foon as he fliould receive the glorious name of father. To our great fa tis faction he affurcd us, that the in-fiances of arreoys having children were extremely rare. It fecms that they choofe their wives and millrcfles among the prollitutcs ; and from this circumftancc, as well as from their great voluptuoufnefs, they have feldom reafon to dread the intrufion of an unfortunate infant. The anfwers of O-Mai, whom I confiilrcd on this fnbjcct after my return to England, gave me Hill greater plcafure, as they foftened the tranfgreflloh at lead of one parr, and entirely freed the bulk of the nation from that (hare of guilt, which the fimple acquiescence in fuch a heinous crime might throw upon them. lie allured me, that the invariable laws of the community of arreoy required the extinction of their offspring ; that the pre-eminence and advantages which a man enjoyed as arreoy were fo valuable, as to urge him on againfl his own feelings ; that the mother was never willing to con-fent to the horrid murder, but that her hufband and other arreoys perfnaded her to yield up the child ; and that when entreaties were not fuflicicnt, force was fometimes employed. Rut above all, he added, that this act was always performed in fecret, and fo that none of the people, not even the towtows or attendants of the houfe, were prefent ; bc-caufc, if it were fcen, the murderers mull be put to death. This being the cafe, wc may comfort ourfelves with the reflection, that criminal individuals arc not more numerous in in the Society Iflands, than among other people ; and that m7a*. the votaries of vice have no reafon to triumph, in fuppofing a whole nation accuflomcd to commit unnatural murders, without a fcnfe of wrong *, The arreoys were no lefs hofpitable than luxurious, and Thu*fday * it was not for want of invitation that we did not partake of their refreshments. We rambled in the country till fun-fct, and then returned to the fhip, which Mahine, the woman, and the other Indian paflcngers had now left. The next morning a great number of natives came to the fhip in their canoes, among whom were many women, who remained with the failors. At Huahine the commerce of this kind had been very inconfidcrablc, and chiefly confined to women who were only on a vifit to that ifland ; it was therefore rcfumcd here with the grcatefl; cagernefs by our crew. Wc pafled the day on an cxcurfion to the northward, where we fhot feveral wild ducks, and met with a hofpitable reception in diifercnt cottages. The next was a fine day, delightfully tempered by a Rrong cailcrly gale. Wc received the vifits of Orca and all • * Depravity is much more at home in our polifhcd climate, and I muft here mention :m niH.uice which (tains fociety with indelible diflionour. In the metropolis ol England then »re wretches, who publicly declare their (kill, and offer their ferviccs, to procure abortion. (See an advertifenvmt to that cfTccl ia a public paper, No. 1327, for WcdncfJay, January 15, 1777.) They are fuf-fered with impunity to make a trade of dcltroying human beings in the womb. Such is the falutary confequencc of lenity towards the murderers of innocent *> I ra ! hit his family, of Boba, the viceroy of the ifland of O-Taha, and of Teina, the fair dancing-woman, whofe picture Mr. Hodges had formerly attempted to draw *, Boba was a tall, handfome young man, a native of Borabora, related to Poonee, the king of that ifland, and conqueror of Rare tea and Taha. Mahine has frequently told us, that he is def-tined to be the fucccflbr of O-Poonc, whofe only daughter Maiwhcrua, faid to be a young beautiful princefs, twelve years old, he is to marry. Boba was at prefent an arreoy, and kept the lively Teina as his miflrefs, who was with child in confcqucncc. Wc entered into convcrfation with her on the cuilom of killing the offspring of an arreoy. The fliort dialogue which palled between us was couched in the mofl fimple cxprcflions, becaufe wc had nut fufli-cient knowledge of the language to difcourfe of abflract ideas, for the fame reafon all our rhetoric was exhauded in a few moments, and had no Other effect, than to diaw the following conccflion from Teina mai : " that our catua (deity) in England might perhaps be offended by the practice of the arreoys ; but that hers was not difplcafcd with it. She promifed, however, if wc would come from England to fetch her child, flie might perhaps keep it alive, provided wc gave her a hatchet, a fliirt, and fome red feathers.'' This was faid in fuch a laughing tone, that wc * Sec vol. I. p. 402. and the plate in captain Cook's account of this voy» *ge, which is engraved from Mr, Hod 'cs's drawing. had had not the lead room to believe her in earned. It was in vain to attempt to continue the convcrfation, fince a variety of objects diverted her attention: it was a wonder indeed that flie had lent an ear to our queflions fo long. In the afternoon we went alhore, to fee a dramatic dance performed by Orca's daughter Poyadua, and found a great number of inhabitants affembled at the play-houfe ; this diverfion being admired by all ranks of the people. Poyadua difplayed her agility as ufual, and received great ap-plaufe from the European fpeclators. The interludes performed by the men were fomcthing different from thofe wc had feen before. We could plainly undcrfland the name of captain Cook, and of feveral of our lhipmates, mentioned in their longs, and they fccmcd to reprcfent a thefc committed by their people. Another of the interludes was the invafion of the Borabora men, which they expreffed by beating one another with a thong or whip, which made a very loud fmack. But Rill another was more curious than all the rcfl : it represented a woman in labour, and provoked immoderate peals of laughter from the multitude. The man who acted this part went through the gcflurcs, which the Greeks were wont to admire in the groves of Venus-Ariadne, near Amathus, where the fame ceremony was acted on the fecond day of the month Gorpioeus, in memory of Ariadne, who died in childbed *. Thus it ap- * Vide Plutarch, in Thcfco. Vol. II. T pears, pears, that there is fcarcely a practice, though ever fo ridiculous, exifting in any corner of the world, that has not been hit upon by the extravagant fancy of men in fome other region. A tall Rout fellow, drclTed in cloth, pcrfonatcd the new born infant in fuch a ludicrous flyle, that we could not refufc joining in the plaudits which his countrymen bellowed upon him. Anatomifts and midwives would have been furprifed to obferve, that this overgrown babe had every nccclTary character of a child newly born ; but the natives were particularly delighted with his running about the Ilagc, whilll the reft of the dancers endeavoured to catch him. The ladies were much plcafcd with this fcene, which, according to the ftmplicity of their ideaii, had not the lcalt indecency ; they looked on, therefore, unconcernedly, and were not obliged, like fome European dames, to peep through their fans. The next morning wc travelled along the fhorc to the fouthward, and met with a very fertile country, and hofpit-ablc people. We came early to a large building of Rone, which was called Marai no Parua, I'arua's bury ing-place. I have already mentioned that this name was likewife given to Tupaya, who went in the Endeavour ; but I am doubtful whether the burying-placc relates to Tupaya, fince it generally bears the appellation of fome living chief. Indeed it is not improbable that another Parua might be alive on the ifland, after whom the marat was named, cf- pccially pecially as all the natives in the neighbourhood flrenuoufly affertcd, that this Parua was an aree, which was not always allowed of Tupaya. This monument was fixty yards long, and five wide; the walls were made of large floncs, and about fix or eight feet high. Wc climbed over, and found the fpace within covered with a heap of fmall coral Rones. From thence we walked on fcveral miles, till we arrived at a fpacious bay, where three little iflands lie within the reef. The country round this bay was fwampy, and well Rocked with ducks. Here we palfed fome time in (hooting, and then embarked in two fmall canoes, and were fafcly landed at one of the little iflands. Wc found a few coco palms and fhrubs, but no fruit-trees upon it ; and there was only a fingle fiflierman's hut, containing fome nets, and other fifhing tackle. Wc returned very foon to the main fhorc, having found no fhclls, though the hope of meeting with fome had principally induced us to crofs the Water. Wc dined with a native who had invited us, and returned to the fhip in a canoe about fun fct. The chief Orea had dined on board with captain Cook during our ab-fence, and had drank about a bottle of wine, without appearing in the leafl intoxicated. Ih had however, as ufual. been extremely facetious, and had convcrfed chiefly of the countries which we had lately vifitcd, and of which he had received an account from his countryman Mahine. After being (att&ficd in regard to many particulars, he faid, that T 2 though uli\ though we had feen a great deal, he would tell us of an ifland which we had not met with in our voyages. " It lies,'' faid he, *c but a few days fail from hence, but it is inhabited by a monflrous race of giants, as tali as the main-maft, and as thick about the middle as the drum-head of the capftan. They are very good-natured people, but if they are ever incenfed againfl any body, they take him up, and throw him as far into the fea as I would throw a flono; If you fliould happen to come there with your ihip, they would perhaps wade up to it, and carry it afliore on their backs." He added feveral other ludicrous circumflances, and concluded with telling us the name of the ifland, Mirro-mirro, in order to give greater weight to his aflertion. It appeared evidently to us, that his whole flory was a fine piece of irony, directed againfl: thofe parts of our narrative which ha did not believe, and of which he could have no conception. We admired the witty humour which was fo confpicuous in this little flight of fancy, and with M. dc Bougainville looked up to its great fource, the affluence of the country,, which produces contentment and pleafurc *. Sunday »9. During the next night fome of the natives flolc the rudders, grapnels, and boat-hooks belonging to our boats, which were fattened to the buoy. As foon as this theft was difcovercd in the morning, the captain acquainted Orca * Sec his Voyage round the World, Ewglidi cJ, p. 257. w with it, who immediately embarked with him in a boar, and rowed feveral miles to the fouthward. In about an hour's time they landed, and almoft all the Rolen articles being returned to our people, they came back to the ffiip entirely fatisfied. I had been on fhore in the creek during this time, and faw a heeva, or dance, performed by two little girls; but their drefs was not fo grand, and their action much inferior to that of Poyadua. The tamow, or hcad-drefs of plaited hair, was not laid like a turban, but formed" feveral large locks, which had a pretty effect, and rcfcmbled in fome meafure the high heads of our modern ladies. In the afternoon Poyadua performed a dance ; and as if flie meant to outfhine the other aetreiTcs, (lie had ornamented her drefs more than ufual, and wore a great quantity of various forts of European beads. Her wonderful agility, the graceful motion of her arms, and the quick vibration of her fingers, were as much admired there by the natives, as wc applaud them in our dancers; and fince all thefe accomplifhmcnts arc taught in the South Sea-iflands by nature only, it muff, be confeffed that Poyadua defcrved the encomiums which all the fpectators bellowed upon her. The inhabitants were particularly delighted with the extraordinary contortions into which fhc ferewed her mouth ; though we were fo little of their mind, that we could not help thinking them horridly frightful. The r J^7A4r The meeting of the arreoys gave rife to thefc frequent dramatic entertainments; their prefence fecmed to enliven the whole country, and to infpire all the people with extraordinary chccrfulnefs. They frequently fhiftcd their garments, made of their bcR kinds of cloth; they palled their time in luxurious idlencfs, perfuming their hair with fragrant oils, fmging and playing on the flute, and palling from one entertainment to another ; in fliort, they enjoyed the blcflings of their iflands in the utmoll extent; and fo much re fern-bled the happy indolent people whom UlyfTcs found in Phaeacia, that they could apply the poet's lines to themfclves with peculiar propriety : To drefs, to dance, to fing, our folc delight, The feaft or bath by day, and love by night. Pope's Homer. Our friend Mahine was perhaps the only per fon among the nobility who did not enjoy that great degree of happi-nefs which fo vifibiy reigned among the reft. He was not received with thofe dillinguifhjng marks of favour which had been lavifhed upon him at Taheitce ; for it feems, even in the South Seas, a man is no where lefs cflcemcd than in his own country. All his relations, who were extremely numerous, expected prefents as their due; whilft at Taheitee his liberality made him friends, and procured him great advantages. As long as the generous youth had fome of thofe riches left, which he had collected at the peril peril of his life, on our dangerous and difmal cruize, he was perpetually importuned to fhare them out; and though he freely diilributed all he had, fome of his acquaintances complained that he was niggardly. He was foon reduced to beg a fupply of European wares from his friends on board, having only faved a few red feathers, and fome other curiofuics, as a prefent for O-Pooncc, the king of Bo-rabora, to whom he was related. Under thefc difagrecable circumilanccs, he longed to return to Taheitce, and told us he was rcfolvcd to fettle there, as foon as he fliould have vifitcd Pooncc, and his other relations at Borabora. He would willingly have embarked with us again for England, if we had given him the lcait hope of returning to the South Sea j but captain Cook having told him, that no fhip would ever be fent to his iflands again, he deprived himfelf of the pleafure of feeing our country, rather than part for ever from his native groves. When wc reflect on the fate of his countryman, O-Mai, we have fome reafon to think this determination fortunate for his heart and morals. The fplendour of England remains unknown to him; but at the fame time he has no idea of thofe enormities which difgracc the opulent capitals of the world. After the dance wras over, Mahine invited us to the dillrict in which his lands were fituatcd. lie had frequently told us, that he had poileilions in this ifland ; but as fome of our people had doubted of his veracity, he was glad to take take an opportunity of junifying himfelf. The next morn-ing therefore, at clay break, we fet off in two boats, and taking on board Orea and all his family, wc arrived, after two hours fail, at Wharai-te-Vab, a diflricT at the north-call end of the ifland. We were welcomed by Mahine and two of his elder brothers, and conducted to a fpacious houfe. A fire was immediately made in a hole in the ground, and fome large flones heated. With the fame preparations, which are already defcribed by captain Cook in his former voyage *, a large hog was killed, cleaned, wrapped in frefh leaves, and put into the hole or oven, and covered with hot flones and a heap of earth. Whilfl it continued to be flcwcd there, with a quantity of fruit, my father, with Dr. Sparrman and myfelf, went up the neighbouring hills, where we found nothing new, though wc were at lcail feven or eight miles from our fhip. After a walk of two hours wc returned, and in a fhort time our dinner was fcrved up on green leaves. The fat of the entrails, together with the blood, had been wrapped up fe-parately in a few leaves, and the fattcll chiefs and arreoys in company immediately fci/.cd upon, and fwallowcd them by handfuls. The reft dined with an uncommon degree of voracity ; whilfl a great croud of towtows, with their greedy looks, devoured the fcail, of which they did not taflc * Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 152. a fmglc a (Ingle morfel. Some ihare of the pork was given to Orea's wife and daughter, who carefully wrapped it up, in order to cat it apart. Thus it feems, that though the hog was wholly drciTed, prepared, and diflributed by men, yet this did not make it improper for the women to partake of it. At other times, it appears, that different perfons cannot eat what has been touched by one or other of the fame family * ; wc arc therefore unable to conceive by wdiat rule their cuflom of eating feparately is conducted. The Tahcitians are not the only people who do not eat with their women; feveral nations of negroes, and even the natives of Labrador, have adopted the fame idea. From the general conduct of thefe African and Efkimaux tribes, an unnatural contempt for the fex appears to be their motive for this unfociable cuflom. But as the Taheitian women arc very kindly treated, and highly cflcemcd by the men, the cuflom muff have fome other origin among them, which a connected fcries of accurate obfervations may perhaps in time lead us to difcovcr. The captain had taken with him a few botths of brandy, which, mixed with water, makes the favourite liquor of failors, called grog. The arreoys and fome other chiefs, finding it flrong, and almofl as naufcous as their pepper-root drink, drank very freely of it, and afterwards took * Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. Vol. If. U fome fome fmall cups of pure brandy, which they rclimed fa well, and repeated fo often, that they were foon obliged to lie down to lleep. We returned to the fhip about five o'clock in the afternoon j and the day being remarkably warm, wtc went afhore to bathe in a beautiful fountain, which we had conftantly made life of for that purpofc during our Ray. A fragrant fhrubbcry hung round ir, fcrccning from the fun the water, which was temperately cool, and perfectly limpid. Wc found the ufc of this bath extremely rcfrefhing; and the natives had probably experienced the fame effect, as they constantly reforted to it every morning and evening. Such plcafing fpots are frequent in thefe iflands ; they contribute greatly to their era-belliihmcnt, and without doubt, are inflrumcntal in pre-fcrving the health of the inhabitants. Wc palled the next days in various excurfions towards the hills, where wc collected a few plants, which wc had not met with before. Thefe hills exactly refembicd thofe of Taheitce, but were fomcwhat lower. We found a Romantic valley between them, furrounded by a forell of various trees and Rirubs, and fumilhed with a beautiful rivulet, which fell in many cafcades over broken rocks and precipices. On our returning from our laR walk, we received a very intcrcQing piece of intelligence from the natives. One of them, juR arrived from the iiland Huahine, told us that two two (hips lay at anchor there, one of them confiderably larger than ours, but the other about the fame fize. Captain Cook called the man into his cabin, where he repeated the Rime Rory to us, and confirmed it, by aliening that he had been on board the leffcr fhip, and had been made drunk there. We enquired for the names of the captains, and he tolds that of the greater fhip was Tabane, and the other Tonno. Thefc were the names by which the natives dcfigned Mr. Banks and captain Furneaux. Captain Cook was therefore furprifed to hear them named, and enquired of what Raturc thefc perfons were. The native very readily told us, that the one whom he called Tabane was a tall man, but the other confiderably lefs. This anfwer cor-refponded extremely well with truth ; but as it was very improbable that captain Furncaux would remain at Huahine, after hearing that his fenior officer lay fo near him, we concluded that the (hips muff belong to fome other nation. At our return to the Cape of Good Hope, we heard that captain furncaux had failed from that fcttlcmcnt long before the time when he was fuppofed to be at Huahine, and that Mr. Banks had not left Europe. Wc have fince learnt that M. St. Denis, a French navigator, has been in the South Seas at the time in queflion with two fliips. The chief, O-Rca, at firR confirmed this news, but afterwards fufpecling that it might haflen our departure, he U 2 was jwZiT. was unwilling to give his opinion, and fecming to doubt of the truth of the report, always abruptly changed the fub-jc<5t of converfation, with all the art of an European politician. The next day the natives came in great numbers to the fhip with abundance of provifions, which they fold very Friday j. cheap, as captain Cook propofed to fail the next clay. His Rore of hatchets and knives had been expended long ago; our armourer was therefore fet to work to make new ones, which were ill-fhapcn, and of very little worth, particularly the knives, [.which were made of pieces of iron hoops. The natives were contented with them, not knowing how to diflinguith the good from the bad by the eye. They fometimes picked our pockets, or flolc what wc did not fuflicicntly look after ; but their fimpliciry now gave room for a feverc retaliations Among the natives of the Society Iflands there arc a few men who prefcrve the national traditions, together with all their ideas of mythology and aflronomy. Mahine, whilfl we were at fea, had frequently fpoken of them as the mofl learned of his countrymen, and named them Tata-o-Ecrro, which wc would cxprefs by teachers. After much enquiry, we found a chief, named Tootavai, in the diflrict of Ha-maneno, who was dillinguifhed by this epithet, as our departure was fo near at hand, wc regretted that wc had not known known him fooner j but my father determined to employ his remaining time in making enquiries on a fubjecl fo intcreRing as the hiflory of religious opinions. Tootavai was pleafed with an opportunity of difplaying his knowledge 5 he was flattered with the attention which we paid to his wordB, and therefore continued to converfe on the fame fubjeet with much greater patience and perfe-vcrance, than we could have expected from a lively inhabitant of thefe iflands. The religion of the iflandcrs appears to be as fingular a fyllcm of polythcifm as ever was invented. Few nations arc fo wretched, and fo wholly occupied with the means of preferring their cxiflencc, as to lay afide all ideas of a creator. Thefe ideas rather fcem to have remained traditionally among mankind, ever fince the firR ages, when the Deity revealed himfelf. Agreeably to this opinion, the people of Taheitce and the Society Iflands have preferved this fpark of divine inflruction, and believe the cxiflencc of a Supreme Being, the maker and progenitor of all things, vifiblc and invifiblc. It has been the fate of mofl: nations to invefligate more or lefs the qualities of this universal and incomprehcnliblc fpirit, and to adopt absurdities, by overlapping the bounds prefcribed by the Creator himfelf to our fenfes and mental faculties. The different attributes of the Deity were foon perfonified by narrow minds, which could not contain the vaR idea of fu- fupreme perfection. Gods and goddefles then became innumerable, and one error Rill gave birth to many more. Man, in the courfe of education, received from his father the knowledge of a God; and a fpontaneous principle within him chcrifhed this idea. Population encreafed, the diftinctions of ranks took place, and proportionately influenced the gratification of the fenfes. In every fociety, fome individual or other took advantage of the general pro-penfity to adore, endeavoured to captivate the judgment of the multitude, and by mifrcprcfenting and feparating the qualities of the Almighty, converted the filial affection of mankind towards their benefactor into a jealous dread of his anger. At the Society Iflands I apprehend this to be the cafe : they adore divinities of all forts and qualities ; but what is mofl lingular, every ifland has a fcparate thco-gony. This will appear more clearly by comparing the following account with the obfervations on their religion in captain Cook's firfl voyage *. Tootavai began with telling us, that in every ifland of this group, they gave the fupreme God, creator of earth and ikies, a different name ; or, to exprefs it more clearly, that in every ifland they believe a different deity, though always one of thofe which are known to them all, to hold the firfl rank. Thus at Taheitce and Eimco, they fay the Supreme Being is O-Rooa- * Sec Iluwkcfwortli, vol. II. p. 237, &c. hattoo; hattoo ; at Huahine they maintain that it is Tane ; at Raietea, O Roo ; at O Taha, Orra ; at Bolabola, Taootoo; at Mowrua, O-Too ; and at Tabbooa-mannoo (Sir Charles Saunders's Iiland) Taroa. Thirteen divinities prefide over the fea, and govern it j viz. i. Ooroohaddoo. 2, Tama-ooec-3, Ta-apee. 4. O-Tooareeonoo. 5. Taneca. 6. Tahou-mconna. 7. Ota-mauwe. 8. O-Whai. o. O-Whatta. 10. Tahooa. 11, Te-ootya. 12. O-Mahooroo. 13. O-Whaddoo. But notwithtlanding all thefe governors, a different divinity, Oo-marrco, is faid to have created the fea. The fame cafe cxifts with regard to the fun, which was created by O-Mauwee, a powerful god, who caufes earthquakes. The divinity which rcfidcs in, and governs the fun, is called Tootuomo-hororirree. They have ventured to attribute to this deity a beautiful human form, whofe hair defcends down to his feet. They affert, that the de-ecafed go thither to dwell with him, and arc continually fcailed there with bread-fruit and pork, which need no preparation from the fire. They believe every man to have a feparate being within him, named Tec, which acts in confcqucncc of the imprcflion of the fenfes, and combines ideas imo thoughts *, This being, which we would call the foul, exiils after death, and lodges in the wooden images, which are placed round the burying-placcs, and * The natives call thoughts farou no U oho, which literally fignify ivorch in the bcllh which which are called by the fame name, tee. Thus the belief of a future cxiflencc, and that of the combination of matter and fpirit, have reached the rcmotefl iflands of the earth. Whether they have any idea of rewards and punifhments in a future flatc, we could not learn ; but it is moft rcafonable to fuppofc that fuch ideas have occurred to a nation fo far advanced as the Tahcitians. The moon was created by a female divinity, named O-LIeenna, who likewife governs that planet, and rcfides in its black fpot or cloud. The women fing a lhort couplet, which feems to be an act of adoration paid to that divinity, perhaps becaufe they fup-pole her to have fome influence upon their phyfical ccco-nomy. Te-06wa no tc Miilama, Tc oowa tc hecnurro. The cloud within the moon, That cloud I love ! We may venture to fuppofc, that the Tahcitian goddefs of the moon is not the chaflc Diana of the ancients, but rather the Phoenician Aftartc. The flats were created by a goddefs called Tcttoo-matarou, and the winds arc governed by the god Orrecorrce. Befidcs thefc greater divinities, they have a confidcrable number of inferior orders, fome of whom are faid to be mifchicvous, and to kill men in their Rcep. They are worfhipped publicly at the principal marais, or monuments of of Rone, by the Tahowa-rahai, or high-prieft of the ifland. The beneficent gods are addreffed in prayers, which are not pronounced aloud, but are diflinguifhed and made known only by the motion of the lips. The priefl looks up to the fkies, and the eatua, or god, is fuppofed to come down and hold convcrfe with him, unfeen by all the people, and heard by none but the prieft himfelf. Surely this is an evident mark of the influence of prieftcraft, whofe great aim is ever to veil religion in myflery. From a principle directly op-pofitc to this, the Chriftian doctrine derives one of thofe in-conteftible characters of a divine origin, which diftinguifli it from all the deceitful inventions of human underftand-ing, and carry perfuafton to the mind. This religion does not wear the myflerious cloak, which can only ferve to cover uarknefs, but appears to us diverted of all kinds of trappings, and throws a pure and Ready light around. It admits of no myflery, and its true and venerable miniflers have at all times allured and convinced us, that they referved no private knowledge for themfclves, which wras not communicated to the meancR of thofe who bow the knee to their pure and divine Creator j " for all (hall know him, from the lead to the greateft." Hebr. viii. i i. Offerings are made to the gods,of hogs and poultry roafled, and of all kinds of eatables* but the inferior, and particularly the malevolent fpirits, are only revered by a kind of hifling. Gome of thefc fpirits are faid to come into the houfes of the Vol. II. X natives natives at night, and to kill them; others are faid to inhabit a certain deferted iiland named Mannua, where they are viable in the fhape of flrong, tall men, with fiery eyes, and devour thofe who happen to approach their coafl: but this rather alludes to the anthropophagy, which, as I have before obferved, fecms to have exifled at thefe iflands, previous to their prefent flate of civilization. A number of plants are particularly facrcd to the deities. The cafuarina, the coco-palm, and the banana, are frequently planted near marais, or public places of worfliip. A fpecics of cratava-9 a fort of pepper, the hibifcus populneus, the dracana terminally and the cahphyllum, arc all found in the fame places, and arc alike confidcrcd as figns of peace and friendfhip. Some birds, fuch as a fpecies of heron, king's-fiflier, and cuckoo, arc alfo confecratcd to the deity; but I have already mentioned, that they are not held in equal veneration by all the people-, and it is alfo to be obfervcd, that different iflands protect different birds. The priefls of thefc iflands continue in office during their life, and their dignity is hereditary. The high-pricft of every ifland is always an aree, who has the highefl rank after the king. They arc confultcd upon many important occafions, partake largely of the good things of the country, and in fliort have found means to make themfclves ncccflary. 13e-fides the priefls, there is alfo in every diitric-t one or two teachers, or tata-o-rcrro, like Tootavat, who are fkillcd in thcogony theogony and cofmogony, and at certain times inftruct the ^ people in thefe things. The fame perfons likewife pre-ferve the knowledge of geography, together with their ideas of aftronomy and the divifion of time. They have the names of fourteen lunar months, in the following order: i. O-Pororo-mooa. 2. O-Pororo-mooree. 3. Moorehah. 4. Oohce-ciya. 5. O-Whirre-amma. 6. Taowa. 7. O-Whirre-erre-erre. 8. O-Tearrce. o. Ote-tai. 10. Warehoo. ii. Wahou. 12. Pippirree. 13. E-Oonoonoo. 14. Oo-mannoo. The firfl feven months collectively are called Ooroo, or a bread-fruit feafon ; but in what manner they arrange thefe months, in order to effect a complete cycle or a year, is a myflery to us at prefent. It fliould fecm that fome of the months, efpccially the fecond and feventh, are intercalary, from the rcfemblance of their names to thofe of the firfl and fifth, and that they arc inferted in different years. Each of the lunations confills of twenty-nine days. During the two lafl days of the lunation, they fay the moon is dead, becaufe it does not appear ; it is therefore plain that they begin to count from the moons firR appearance, and not from the real time of the conjunction. The twenty-fifth day of the thirteenth moon, E-Oonoonoo, was our third of June, when we obtained this information. The name of tahowa, which the Tahcitians apply to pi icits, is not entirely confined to them, but is alfo given to thofe perfons who know the virtues of a few plants, X 2 which which are ufed as remedies againR difTerent diforders. Their medicines are few, and very fimple, but their difeafes are not manifold and complicated, | As foon as we had obtained thefe accounts from Tootavai, the fhip unmooied, on the fourth of June, about ten in the morning. The king of Raietea, Oo ooroo, to whom the conqueror O-Poonee had left the title and honour of royalty, vifited us with fome of his relations, juft before our departure. O-Rca with his family was likewife on board, and Mahine with his relations came to take their leave. The parting fcene was extremely affecting ; all our friends fhed tears plentifully, but poor Mahine's heart fecmed torn to pieces by the violence of his grief. He ran from cabin to cabin, and embraced every one of us, without being able to fpeak a finglc word. His tears, his fighs and looks were eloquent beyond defcription. At lafl the fhip fct fail ; he got into his canoe, and continued Randing upright, whilft all his countrymen were feated. He looked at us, then hung down his head, and hid it in his garments. When we had cleared the reefs, we Rill perceived him to wave his extended arms ; and he continued his addreffes till we could no longer difcern him. Thus we left an amiable nation, who, with all their imperfections, are perhaps more innocent and pure of heart, than thofe who are more refined and better iiiflructed. Without quoting the example of Mahine, we have often been been witnefTes to reciprocal acts of kindnefs, which convinced us, that the focial virtues are frequently exercifed amongft themfelves. I have feen a fingle bread-fruit, or a few coco nuts fhared betwreen a number of people, fo that every one partook of them. I have obferved them parting with their cloadis, and doing feveral charitable actions to each other, with the fame good-will which they exprefled towards us. Wc fliould indeed be ungrateful, if we did not acknowledge the kindnefs with which they always treated us ; they were ready to carry us on their backs in and out of our boats, to prevent the furf from wetting our feet; they often loaded themfelves with the curiolities which we had purchafed j and rarely refufed to go into the water in queft of any bird which we had fhot. If the rain caught us on our excurfions, or the heat of the fun and the fatigue of the journey oppreiTed us, we were invited to re-pofe in their dwellings, and feafted on their beR provifions j our friendly hoft flood at a diftance, and never tafled any thing till wc entreated him j whilfl fome of the family were employed in fanning us with a leaf, or the bough of a tree. Before we left the houfe we were commonly adopted, according to our different ages, in the quality of fathers, brothers, or fons. This circumftance was owing to an opinion that we were all related. The chiefs in all the Society Iflands are defcended from the fame family; our officers, therefore, and all thofe who dined or mcflcd together, gether, were by them confidered as relations. They fup-pofed that captain Cook and my father were brothers, purely from this reafon j for, with all their good heart, they arc but indifferent phyfiognomifts. Their hofpitality towards us was frequently quite difintcrcRcd; and gave us a right to form the moR flattering conclufions in regard to their conducl: towards each other. They arc hofpitablc without fecming to know it \ and leave to Rrangers who vifit them, the pleafing and grateful tafk of recording their virtues. CHAP, '774 June C LI A P. VIIL Run from the Society to the Friendly Iflands, w E fired a falutc of fcveral guns on leaving the ifland * of Raietca, in honour of his majefly's birth day ; Saturday and this difchargc of our artillery afforded no fmall en-rcrtainment to the inhabitants. During the fix weeks which wc had fpent at Taheitee and the Society Iflands, we had been well refrefhed, and were perfectly recovered from our bilious and fcorbutic complaints: a venereal diforder was, however, the reward of thofe, that Nearly one half of our crew were afflicted with this naufeous and fhamcful difeafe; though it was in general lefs virulent that in Europe. Our converfations with Mahine on its ravages, gave us the greatcR reafon to be convinced, that it cxiilcd at Taheitce and the Society Iflands previous to captain Wallis's voyage in 1768. Mahine frequently allured us, that fcveral years before that period, his mother died of this difeafe at Borabora. Its appearance has therefore been attributed to a wrong caufc in various -with unbafhful forehead, woo'd The means of ficknefs and debility. Shakespeare. parts parts of the world, For the fpace of near three centuries the Spaniards have been accufed by phyficians, and dcteflcd by moral ids, for bringing the infection from America, which is now incontrovertibly proved to have begun in Europe, previous to the difcovery of America *. The Englifli and French navigators have charged each other with the introduction of this deteflable diiordcr among the harmlcfs and hofpitablc Tahcitians ; though they have long been acquainted with it, and arc not ignorant of the art of curing itf. Nay, it feems that their fimple diet, the falubrity of their climate, and a long fpace of time, have abated the acrimony of the virus, and brought it to that inactive Rate to which it is now reduced in South America. I am far from fuppotmg, that the venereal complaint has been carried to America from Europe; no, the lame caufes which -could give birth to it in one part of the world, arc fuflicicnt to produce it every where clfe. The commerce of our crews with the women of Tonga Tabboo, and the Marqucfas ; nay, their remarkable connections with the falacious females of Eafler Ifland, had no finiiler confcqucnccs. It may be inferred from thence, that the infection has not yet broke out at thofe iflands, though fuch inferences arc fometimes * See Pctr, Martyr, ab Angleria Decad. American.—Difllrtation fur 1'Origin* dc la Maladic Vencricnne, par M. Sanchez. Paris, 1752.—Kxamen hW©/iq«« fur l'Apparition de la Maladic Vcneriennc en Europe. Liibonnc, 1774.—I^r« Hunter, in the Phil. Trail f, and others. f Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 233. fat- fallacious*; for captain Waliis left Taheitee without j'JJJ; having a fingle venereal patient, though the diftemper is now proved to have cxifted there before his arrival. It is alfo beyond a doubt, that the New Zeelanders f were afflicted with this diforder before any Europeans had an intercourfe with them. Wc paffed the ifland of Mowrua in the afternoon, and Rood to the weflward with a favourable trade-wind. On the 6 th, at eleven in the morning, we defcricd an ifland, which captain Wallis named after lord Howe. It is very low, confiding of coral ledges, which cnclofe a lagoon ; and by its direction, it appears to be the fame which the natives of the Society Iflands call Mopechah. Wc found it fimated in i 6° 46 S. Iat. and i£4° 8'W. Several birds, called boobies, were feen in the neighbourhood of this little iflc, which was to appearance uninhabited. The next day at noon the wind fhifted, and became con- Tpttij 7. trary. During the whole afternoon it thundered and lightned, and wc had feveral fmart mowers. The night was calm ; but we fixed the electric chain at the maft-hcad, on account of the ilrong lightning which flill continued. Wc had fo faint a breeze, with intervening calms, during the next three days, that we made but flow advances. Tropic-birds and noddies vifltcd us during this time ; and I Ibid, p, 239. Y our * Sec vol. I. p, 369. Vol. II. our crew had the mortification of lofing a great mark, after they had hooked and ihot him with three bullets. On the i i th, in the morning, the wind frefhened again, and pulhed us on to the W. S. W. for two days, at the expiration of which wc had calms and foul winds to cope with, and faw frequent flafhes of lightning at night. Sea-fowl of different forts, and fifties, fuch as bonitos, dolphins, fharks> and grampuffes, appeared about us at different times. Thurfday i6t On the i 6th, in the morning, at eight o'clock, we difcovercd another low ifland. We were clofe to it about three in the afternoon, and failed round it, without finding a landing place or harbour. It conflfted of eight different iflcs, connected by reefs, and covered with trees, particularly coco-palms, which made it look remarkably pleafant. VaR flocks of aquatic birds appeared about it, from whence we conn tided, that it was likewife uninhabited. In fome parts there were extenfive fandy beaches, where turtles probably refort to lay their eggs. The fea was alfo full of good fith, of different forts, about us. This pretty little fpot was named Palmcrflon Ifland, and lies in i8° 4' S. lat. and 1 6 3 0 10' W. Monday zo, \vc continued fleering to the W.S. W. till the 20th, when we faw an iiland in the afternoon, of fome elevation, on which, before funfet, wc could difcern the trees. Wc tacked all night to windward, and at the return of daylight 1774-june, light Rood towards it. Llaving approached within about two miles, we ran along the fhore, which now appeared fleep and rocky, with here and there a narrow fandy beach at the foot of the rock. It was nearly level every where, and its greater! height feemed not to exceed forty feet ; but it was covered with woods and fhrubberies along the fum-mit. About ten o'clock, we perceived feven or eight people running clofe to the water's edge. They feemed to be of a blackiQi colour, and were naked; fomething white was wrapped about their heads and loins, and each had a fpear, a club, or a paddle in his hand. In feveral chafms between the rocks, we obfervcd a few fmall canoes hauled upon the fhore. We now likewife took notice of fome coco-nut trees, of no great height, which Rood on the Hope of the rocks. Two boats were hoifted out, armed and manned, in which the captain, accompanied by Dr. Sparrman, Mr. Hodges, my father, and myfelf, went afliore. A reef of coral furrounds the whofe coail at a fliort diftance; but having found an opening, where the furf was not dangerous, wc landed, and climbed up one of the adjacent rocks, where we polled fome of our failors and marines. It confided entirely of fharp and craggy coral, and was covered with a variety of fmall fhrubby plants, common to the low iflands. Be-fides thefe, wc found fome new fpecies, all which grew between the crevices of the coral, without the Icafl atom of foil. Some curlews, fnipes, and herons, of the fame fort Y 2 which which we had obfervcd at Taheitee, likewife appeared on this ifland. Having walked among the bullies, at the diflance of about fifty yards from the water, we heard a loud halloo, upon which we retired to the rock, where our people had taken pofl. We now learnt that captain Cook, having walked up a long deep gulley, which lay before us, had entered the woods at a little diflance from us. He had not proceeded far, when he heard fomebody tumbling down from a tree. He fuppofed it was one of us, and called out to us, but was prefently undeceived by the fhouts of the Indian. We now called to the natives in thofe South Sea dialects which we were acquainted with, that wc were friends, and defircd them to come down to us. They were heard talking and fhouting to each other for fome time ; and prefently one of them appeared at the entrance of the gulley. His body was blackened as far as the waifl ; his head was ornamented with feathers placed upright, and in his hand he held a fpear. Behind him we heard many voices in the chafm, though the trees prevented our feeing the people. At lafl a young man, to all appearance without a beard, flepped forward, and joined the firfl. He was like him blackened, and had a long bow, like thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, in his right hand.. With the left he inflantly flung a very large Rone, with fo much accuracy* as to hit Dr. Sparrman's arm a violent blow, at the diflance of forty yards. The pain which it occalioncd irritated my friend friend fo much, that he let fly at his enemy ; but it did not JSt. appear that the fmali fliot had any effecT, Both the natives retired foon after j and though we ftaid here for fome time, performing the idle ceremony of taking poflcflion, we faw nothing more of the inhabitants. After we had rcfumed our courfe along iliore in the boats, we faw the people coming to the water's fide at the place which we had left. The appearance of the coaft was ftill the fame as wc advanced. Wc landed at the hazard of our necks in another place, which we left as foon as the boat's crew called out, that they perceived the natives above us. We continued till we came to a confidcrable chafm in the rock, before which a flat reef, full of holes and cavities, extended about fifty yards off fhore. We drew up a line of failors on the reef, and the captain with us walked into the chafm, where wc found four canoes. They were very nearly of the fame flructurc with thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, and had fome carving, but were not fo neatly wrought. They were finglc.and had flrong out-riggers. Some were covered with coarfe mats, and contained fifhing-lines, fpcars, and pieces of wood, which appeared to have fcrved as matches for fifhing at night. The captain laid a fmall prefent of beads, nails, and medals on each canoe ; but whilfl he was fo employed, I perceived a troop of natives coming down the chafm, and in-flantly acquainting our company of it, we all retired a few Reps. Two of the natives, dreffed with feathers, and blackened blackened as the other before mentioned, advanced towards us with furious fhouts, and fpears in their hands. We called in friendly terms to them ; but to no purpofe. The captain endeavoured to difcharge his mufket, but it milTcd fire. He defired us to fi.e in our own defence, and the fame thing happened to us all. The natives threw two fpears : captain Cook narrowly cfcaped one of them by flooping; the other Aid along my thigh, marking my cloaths with the black colour with which it was daubed. We tried to fire again, and at laR my piece, loaded with fmall fliot, went off, and Mr. Hodges fired a ball, which did no execution. At the fame time a regular firing began behind us from our party, who having obfervcd our retreat, had likewife viewed another troop of the natives coming down by a different path to cut us off. The effect of the fmall fliot fortunately Roppcd the natives from rufliiug upon us, and gave us time to retreat to our men, who continued to fire with great cagcrnefs, while any of the natives remained in light. Two of thefe in particular, Handing among thc buthes, brandished their weapons in defiance a conlidcrablc while, but at lalt retired, one of ihcni appearing to be wounded, by thc difmal howl which wc heard prefently after. Wc now embarked, and rcfolvcd to abandon a fet of people, whom no entreaties could prevail upon to become our friends. The nature of their country, which is almoft inacccuible, feems to have contributed to make their tempers pers fo unfociable. The, whole iiland is purely a coral-rock, like that of the low iflands, on which we faw very few coco-palms, and no ufeful trees. I have therefore formed a conjecture, that the interior parts are not fo barren, but fit for the culture of nutritive vegetables. The general refembiance of this ifland to a coral ledge raifed out of the water, almofl leads me to fufpecT that it includes a fertile plain, which was once a lagoon, Whether a con-vulfion of the globe, or any other caufe, lifted fuch a large piece of coral-rock forty feet above water, is a point which muR be left to future philofophers to determine. The boats and arms of thc natives refemblcd thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, and it is therefore probable that the people have thc fame origin ; but their numbers are inconfi-derablc, and their civilization little advanced, fince they are favage, and go naked. Their ifland fecms to be about three leagues long, and was called Savage Ifland. It is fituated in 19 ° T S. and i 6 9 ° 3 7' W. Having reached the fhip, the boats were hoi fled in, and thc next morning we continued our courfe to the weft-ward. A large high-finncd whale, which was fcen near the fhip, fpouted up thc water, and feveral birds and fifh attended us as iiiual. On the twenty-fourth at night we lay to, as we expected to be very near A Namoka, or Rotterdam Ifland, one of thc Friendly Iflcs difcovercd by Tafman in 1643. Breakers were were heard ahead at two o'clock, and the land appeared at day-break. We Rood for it, and foon found it to confift of feveral low iflands, connected by a vafl reef. Another great reef lay to the northward, and we patted between them. At noon a canoe came off towards us, though the neareft land was above a league diftant. We difcerned two men in it, who flood on a long while, but at lafl, feeing that the fhip gained upon them, they put about and returned. Wc could not help admiring thc difference between this race, and the favages whom wc had fo lately left, and agreed that the name Friendly was very juflly given to them. The wind flackened all the afternoon, and died away to a perfect calm during night. We approached fo near one of thc reefs by this means, that we ran great rifle of being wrecked j but a breeze fpringing up in the morning, wc were out of danger in a fliort time. The next morning wc failed between reefs and fmall iflands, which made the water fmooth. Thc iflands had a little more elevation than thc common coral iflands ; they were covered with groves and tufts of trees, which gave them a moft enchanting appearance. The houfes were fcen in great numbers among the trees on the beach, and the iflands had an air of happinefs and affluence. One of thefc little gardens rofe at its call end into a white perpendicular cliff, with fomcthing like horizontal flrata. At our diflance it looked like the baflion of a ruined fort, and being frin-'d with with woods and palms, formed altogether a romantic view. jlU.' Towards noon thc wind uackencd, and canoes put off from different iflands to vifit us, though they were above a league diftant. Some of them worked fo hard, that they were near us in lefs than an hour ; and when they were about a mufket-fhot off, they began to call to us from time to time, Rill continuing to paddle towards us. Three perfons were in the canoe, exactly like the natives of Ea-oowhe and Tonga-Tabboo, whom we had fcen in October, 1773. When they were along fide, a few beads and nails were pre* fentcd to them, for which they immediately fent a bunch of bananas, and fome delicious fliaddocks (citrus deenmanm) on the deck, befides a bunch of thc red fruits of the palm-nut tree or pandang (athndjclylis) which is a fign of friendfhip. This being done, they fold us all the fliaddocks and fruit which they had, and came on board. In thc mean while the other canoes arrived, and acted without the lead caution, as if we had been long acquainted. They taught us the names of all the iflands in thc neighbourhood ; that with the high cliff they called Tcrrcfctcheii j the other, which we admired fo much for its beauty, Tonoomca: both thefe lay to the caflward of us. Mango-nooc (great) and Mango^cetce (littleJ were two iflands to the well of us ; and to the S. W. beyond them lay Namoka-nooee and Namoka-ectce; thc firfl of which Tafman has called Rotterdam Ifland, or Anamocka. Vol. II. Z After After dinner the breeze frefhencd, and we failed towards Namoka, which was the largeft ifland of this group. Thc number of canoes encreafed about us j they came from all the neighbouring iflands with fruit, fifh, and pigs, all which they difpofed of for nails and rags. Wc had foundings all thc day between thefe iflands, at full in forty and fifty, and afterwards, when wc came nearer, in nine, twelve, fourteen, and twenty fathom. About four o'clock, having hauled round the fouth end of Namoka, we came to, on the lee or wefl fide of it, where Tafman formerly lay. Our diftance from thc fhorc was about a mile. The coaft of the iiland rofc fifteen or twenty feet nearly per-pcndicular, after which it appeared almofl level, having only a fingle hillock near the middle. This flccp fhore had fome refemblance to the coaft of Savage Iiland, which wc had lately left, but thc richnefs of its woods was infinitely greater. Innumerable coco-nut palms out-topped thc woods, and ornamented thc ifland on all fides. Whilfl wc were coming to an anchor, one of thc natives caught thc lead, and tore thc line which one of our people was heaving. He was defired to return it, but took no notice of thc captain who fpoke to him. A mufket with ball was fired through his canoe ; upon which lie calmly removed to thc other fide of thc fhip. Our demand was repealed, and proving ineffectual again, was enforced by a load of fmall-fhor, which made him fmart. He infliinly paddled paddled to the head of the fhip, where a rope hung over-board, to which he tied the line and lead. His countrymen were not fatisfied with this rcftitution ; they turned him out of his canoe, and made him fwim on fhore, whilfl: they continued to trade with us. They fold us coco-nuts, excellent yams, bread fruit, bananas, fliaddocks, and other fruit. They alfo brought purple water-hens alive, and a fine well-taflcd fparus ready dreffed in leaves ; alfo a curious flringy root baked, which contained a very nouriihing pulp, of fuch a fweanefs, as if it had been boiled in fugar. All thefe things were eagerly bought for nails, which were cflcemed according to their fize, and for pieces of our cloth. Their canoes, their perfons, drefs, cufloms and language fo cntiiely rcfemblcd thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, that we could perceive no difference. As this ifland is at a fliort diflance from Namoka, it is not improbable that thc inhabitants of thc latter might have heard of our arrival there in October, i 7 7 3- The next morning captain Cook landed early in a fandy Monday;:, cove, which is accurately defciibcd by Tafman. It is en-clofed by a reef, and has a narrow entrance for boats at the fouth end. It is fo (hallow, that our boats could only come in at high water. The captain purchafed a pig, and was conducted to ;i pond of frefh water at a fliort diflance from the beach, the fame where Tafman had fupplied his fhips with water. The hofpitality of thc natives was cxercifed Z 2 in in its utmoft extent, and one of the handfomcfl ladies of the ifland complimented the captain with an offer, which was not accepted. Having examined the watering-place, he returned on board to brcakfall, and gave flrict orders, that no perfons infected with or lately cured of venereal complaints fliould be fullered to go on fhore, and that no woman fliould be admitted in the fhip. A number of ladies came off in feveral canoes, and fccmcd very dciirous of making acquaintance with our failors ; but after paddling about the fhip for fome time, they were obliged to return to the fliore, very much difcontcntcd. Immediately after breakfaft, Dr. Sparrman, my father and myfelf accompanied captain Cook to the fliore, where a trade commenced for fliaddocks and yams, which thc natives fold us in prodigious quantities. Bananas and coco nuts were fcarcc in proportion, and bread-fruit flill more rare, though thc trees of thefe forts were very numerous. All the men went nearly naked, a flight covering on thc loins excepted ; a few of them, however, and mofl of thc womci^ were drcft from thc waitl to thc ancles, in a piece of lliff painted cloth made of bark, wrapped fcveral times round them, or in mats. As foon as our boats reached the fhorc, thc clamours of all thofe who had fomcthing to fell became fo cucflivcly loud, that wc hallcncd into thc country, whofe afpeet was very inviting. A confiderablc variety of plants covered the ground ground in wild luxuriance ; and the great number of plantations of all forts, made thc whole ifland refemble a beautiful garden. Thc fences which had confined the view at Tonga-Tabboo, were here much lefs frequent, and only cn-clofed one fide of the path, leaving the other open to the eye. The ground was not perfectly level in the interior parts, but rofe in feveral little hillocks lined with hedges and bullies, which formed a moR agreeable profpect. The path which we met with, fometimes went under long rows of lofty trees, planted at confidcrablc diftanccs, between which thc ground was covered with the richefl: verdure ; fometimes a thick and impenetrable arbour of fragrant fhrubbcrics vaulted over it for a confidcrable fpace, and hid it entirely from thc fun ; fometimes plantations, and fometimes wilds appeared on both fides. Thc houfes of thc natives were of a fingular flrucTurc : their height was about eight or nine feet; but thc walls, which were not perpendicular, but converged towards thc bottom, were not above three or four feet from thc ground, and very neatly made of reeds. The roof converged into a ridge at thc top ; fo that thc fection of thc houfe rcfcmblcd a pentagon. It was thatched, and the roof projected beyond the Hoping walls of thc houfe. In one of the long fides there was always an opening about two feet fquare, and eighteen inches from thc ground, which fcrved inflcad of a door. The length of the houfe never exceeded thirty feet, and thc breadth was commonly commonly eight or nine. The infide of thefe houfes was always filled with large roots of yams, which feem to be the chief fupport of the natives. To fleep upon them muft be extremely uncomfortable ; and yet a few mats are only fprcad over them at night, which cuflom has made acceptable to thefe people. Thofe narrow little flools, on which the Tahcitians red thc head, are extremely frequent here, and fcrve the fame purpofc. We alfo obfervcd fcveral open fheds, on a few pofls, like fome which we had fecn at Toncra-Tabboo. Thefc were laid out with mats, and fccmcd to be intended for their abode in the day-time. In our ramble we palled by a number of thefc habitations, but faw very few inhabitants, they being moflly at the trading place. Thofe whom we met were always very civil, and bowed their heads, faying, kk'i (good), vooii(friend), or fome fuch word, to mark their good temper and difpofition. They were our conductors; they brought us flowers from thc higheil tiecs, and birds out of thc water; they often pointed out thc fined plants to us, and taught us their n nnes we needed only to thew them a plant, of which wc wifhed to have fpecimens, and they would go to any diftatlCC to procure it. Coco-nuts and fliaddocks they readily offered to us ; and willingly carried great loads for us ; a nail, a bead, or even a fmall rag of cloth, being con-red as a valuable prefent in return. In a word, they were on all occasion8 ready to oblige us. In A VOYAGE ROUND THE W O R L D. In the courfc of our walk we found a large lake or lagoon of falt-watcr, at the north end of the iiland, which at one place reached within a few yards of the fea. It was about three miles long, and one wide. Three little iflands full of trees, arranged in the mofl picturefque manner, fcrved to ornament this fine piece of water, of which the fhores alfo captivated the eye by their variety and beauty. Thc inverted landfcape on the water, rendered this fcene ftill more beautiful, efpecially as our point of view was an eminence, where many tall trees and thick fhiubbcries fcrecned us from the fun. No ifland, which wc had hitherto vifited, had offered fo great variety of views to us in fo fmall a fpace ; nay, we had no where found fuch abundance of beautiful flowers, fo agreeably contrafting their various tints, and mingling their fwect Rents to perfume the air. The lake was full of wild-ducks, and thc woods and ihorcs abounded with pigeons, parroqucts, rails, and fmall birds, which thc natives brought for fale. At noon wc returned to the trading place, where captain Cook had purchafed a great quantity of fruit and roots, a few fowls, and one or two fmall pigs. When we arrived on board, wc found they had been equally fuccefsful there in thc purchafe of proviflons. The whole poop was loaded with fliaddocks, which wc found a mofl delicious fruit, of excellent flavour, and of yams wc had laid in fuch a quantity,, thy, that wc cat of them every day for fcveral weeks afterwards inflcad of hi feu it. Arms and utcnfiis, the ufual articles of trade of thefe iflanclcrs, had likewife been plentifully fold, especially by feveral people who came in large double failing canoes from thc neighbouring iflands. While we were at dinner, one of our ihipmatcs was obferved on fhorc, furrounded by a great croud of natives; but no further notice was taken of him, though he made fignals for a boat. One of our trading boats, which was fent afliorc as foon as thc crew had dined, came near thc place where he was flationcd, and took him on board. It proved to be our furgcon, Mr. Patton, who had been in the moil imminent danger of lofing his life, by being carclcfsly left upon thc ifland without fupport. From his account it is very plain, that even among thefe kind and welbdifpofcd people, there were fome villains who greatly rcfemblcd thc , wretches that infefl our civilized countries. He had left thc landing place, and engaging a fmglc native in his fer-vice for a few beads, had rambled over great part of thc iiland. I Its fuccefs in fhooting was confidcrable ; thc native carried eleven ducks, with which he returned to thc fandy cove. Thc boats having already left that place, he was fomething difconccrtcd, and thc croud prcfTcd about him, confeious that he was in their power. lie walked therefore to the rocky ihore, juft abrcafl of the fhip, where our people faw him. In going thither, the man who carried thc the ducks endeavoured to drop fome of them; but Mr. Patton luckily turning about at that moment, he picked them up again. The croud now prefTed clofe about him, and feveral of thc men threatened him with jagged fpears, whilfl nothing but the appearance of his fowling-piece kept them in awe. Several women were fet on by the men, to draw him off his guard, by a thoufand lafcivions gefturcs and attitudes; but his fituation was of too %icus a nature to permit him to attend to them. After fome time a canoe arrived from thc fhip, and Mr. Patton agreed with the owner to carry him aboard for a nail, the lafl which he had left, jufl as he was flepping into the canoe, they matched his fowling-piece from him, took all his ducks except three, and fent away the canoe. He was greatly ailonilhcd and alarmed, and rcfolvcd to return to the top of the rock, where he expccled to be more cafdy diflinguiihed from thc (hip, from whence he hoped for afliflancc. Thc natives now laid afidc all refcrve, and began to pluck at his cloaths. He readily fullered them to match his cravat and handkerchief; but they alfo fei/.ed his coat, and rcfumcd their threatening gefturcr. with fuch violence, that he expected every moment would be his lafl. His anxiety and agony cannot well be painted. He put his hands in all his pockets to fearch for fome inilrumcnt, a knife or the like, with which to defend himfelf; he found nothing but a wretched tooth-pick-cafc; he opened it, and held it out Vol. II. A a upon upon the croud, who perceiving it hollow, inflantly flew back to the diflance of two or three yards : he continued to point this formidable weapon againfl thc enemy, whofe fpcars were A ill lifted againfl him. The meridian fun flione burning hot upon him ; he had walked the whole day, was (petit with fatigue, and began to defpair of faving his life, when a handfomc young woman, remarkable for her flowing curls, which hung down on her bofom, took pity on his wretched condition. She flepped forward from the croud, with the greatcfl humanity and companion cx-preflcd in her eye; innocence and goodnefs were fo flrongly marked in her countenance, that it was impofliblc to diflrufl her. She approached, and offered him a piece of fliaddock, which was eagerly and thankfully accepted; and gradually fupplicd him with more, till he had confumcd the whole fruit. At lafl thc boats put off fr om thc fhip, at light of which thc whole croud difperfed ; only his generous bencfaclrefs, and an old man, who was her father, remained fitting near Mr. Patton, with that unconcern which a noble and virtuous conduct: infpircs. She enquired for the name of her friend ; he told her that which thc Tahcitians had given him, Patccnec ; and flic immediately adopted it, changing it into Patfccncc. On flepping into the boat, he gave her father and her a few prefents, which he borrowed from thc crew, and with thefe they returned to their groves highly pleated. When Mr. Patton eamc came on board, he acquainted captain Cook with the danger to which he had been cxpofed; but though he had only followed the example of many of his ihipmates, by repofing confidence in the natives, yet the lofs of his fowling-piece was confidercd as a proper punifhment for his imprudence. Thc afternoon was fpent in different rambles on fliore. My father, with a finglc tailor, walked over a confiderable part of thc iiland, without the leaR moleRation from thc inhabitants, and brought on board a number of new plants. No other complaints arofe againft thc natives this day, except fome petty thefts, at which they were expert like their brethren of Tonga-Tabboo and the Society Iflands. The next morning early we difcovercd feveral iflands to Tuetihy **, thc N. W. of us, which a fuze in that quarter had hitherto fcrccncd from our fight. Thc two wellermofl: were high, one peaked, but thc other more*extenfive. A thick fmokc arofe from thc Lift, on which, during the night, wc had obfervcd a fire. Thc natives who came on board acquainted us that this fire was conflant, fo that we concluded it to proceed from a volcano. They called this ifland Tofooa *( antl thc peak clofc to it c-Ghao |. To thc northward of thefe two wc difcerncd thirteen low iflands, each of which the natives named to us. * Tnfman call; it Ann-Tofaa in his map. .1„m or hhma probably fi-nfics a mountain. f Tafnian calls it Kiybny in his mnp. A a 2 Wc 1774. \Vc haftenecl afhore after brcakfafl, to refume our cn-quiries. We foon left the beach, where the natives were again aflcmbled in great numbers of both fexes. A moft beautiful kind of lily (crinum aftaiicum) was the firfi plant which wc met with; and feveral others, not lefs valuable, were collected foon after. We came to the watering-place, which was a pond about a hundred or a hundred and fifty yards long, and fifty broad ; it contained Ragnant water, which was fomcwhat tainted with a brackifh taflc, and might perhaps have fubtcrraneous communications with the fait lagoon, which in one place adjoined to it. Lieutenant Clcrkc, who fupcrintended thc waters, told us that his mufket had been nimbly matched away by one of the natives, who inflantly ran ofT with it. Wc advanced to the fait lagoon, and botanized among thc fpacious mangroves which fur rounded ir. Thefe trees occupy a vaft fpace of ground, and grow more and more intricate by age. Their feeds do not drop off, but (hoot down from the top of thc tree, till they reach thc ground, where (hey take root, and fprcad new branches. Whilft wc were here, we heard three great guns fired ; hut the found being broken by many intervening objects, wc fufpected that they were only mufkets overcharged as ufual, by fome young gentlemen on a fhooting party. We left thc lake foon after, and palled through a plantation, where thc natives bowed to us very kindly, and invited us to lit down amongll them. We We were defirous of making the moft of our time, and therefore foon left them, and returned to the frefh-water pond. Having fired a mufket at fome wild-ducks, which were in great plenty, we were called to by Mr. Gilbert, thc mailer, who told us that a volley of fmall arms, and three cannon had been fired to alarm and bring us back, becaufe a fray had happened between thc natives and our people. We joined him in a few minutes, and found with him the captain, and a file of marines, together with two natives, who fat on their hams, and from time to time pronounced thc word u-oj, which fignifies 11 friend." Wc fuppofed that thc theft of Mr. Clcrke's mufket had given occafion to this diRurbancc; but this was too trilling a circumftance to be refented. The cooper, in mending thc watcr-cafk, was not fuflicientiy attentive to his adze, and one of thc natives had matched it up, and conveyed it away. The captain, in order to recover this valuable inflrumenr, of which however there were no lefs than a dozen in the fhip, ordered his people to feize feveral large double canoes, which had probably arrived from different adjacent iflands. They performed his command, and Mr. Gierke's gun was brought back by the aflonifhcd natives. But this was not fuflieicnt, and another canoe was feized. A native, who flood upon it, defended his property, which he had forfeited by no offence, and took up a fpear, which he fccmcd i efolvcd to employ with good effect. Captain Cjok levelled his mufket at him, and bid him lay down clown his arms. He refufed, and received a load of fliot through his wrifl: and thigh, at the diflance of eight or nine yards, which immediately brought him to thc ground. The volley was now fired, and a boat fent off to the fhip, where three canon, directed againfl thc higheft point of the ifland, were fired off one after another. It was thought that thc natives would now have left us ; but a great part flill remained on thc beach confeious of their innocence, and fome canoes continued to ply about thc fhip. Thc behaviour of one of thc natives upon this occafion was fo remarkably floical, that our people could not help taking notice of it. He had a fmall canoe in which he always met the other canoes before they reached the fhip, took out what he liked, and paid their owners, a certain fmall price in Luropcan goods, which he had before obtained by barter. With his new cargo he returned to the fhip, and always made a confiderable profit upon his bargain. As he never failed to vifit each canoe, our faifors called him a Cuflom-houfc officer. He was lying clofe to thc fhip, baling the water out of his canoe, when the guns were discharged not two yards over his head. Not with Handing thc extraordinary concuflion at fo fhort a diftance, he never once looked up, but continued to bale, and afterwards to trade as if nothing had happened. We had not long rejoined the captain and his party, when the unlucky adze wai brought back, which had been been thc occafion of fo much mifchicf. A middle-aged woman, who feemed to have great authority, had dif-patchcd fome oi: thc people after it, and they returned at the fame time a cartridge-box, and Mr. Patton's fowling-piece, which appeared to have been concealed under water. The wounded man was brought to us on a piece of wood carried by men. He fccmcd almoft without fenfation ; and was fct on thc ground, whilfl the natives gradually returned, and began to take courage. Thc women in particular, were very defirous of rcRoring thc general tranquility, and their timid looks fecmed to charge the behaviour of thc llrangcrs with cruelty. They feated themfclves on a fine green turf, in a group of fifty or more together, and invited fcveral of us to fit by them. Each of them had fome fliaddocks, which they broke in pieces, and diftributcd to us with every mark of kindnefs and peace. Mr. Patton's friend was one of the forcmofl, and indeed claimed thc fail rank among thc beauties of thofe iflands. Her flaturc was graceful, and her form exqui-htcly proportioned. Her features were more regular than any 1 had ever fcen in thefe iflcs, full of fwectnefs and the charms of youth, llcr large dark eyes fparklcd with fire, and her ebon curls floated on her neck. She was of a lighter eoiour than the common people, and wore a brown cloth which clofely embracing the body immediately under the brcall, but being fomcwhat wider towards towards thc feet, perhaps fuitcd her better than the moft elegant European drefs. Mr. Patton having been fent for, arrived with proper inftrumcnts, and dreflcd thc wounds of thc poor native, whofe countrymen brought many banana leaves, which were laid on over thc dreifing. A bottle of brandy was given them, with directions to wafti thc wounds with the liquor from time to time. Thc wound was not dangerous, as it happened in a flclhy part but as thc diftance was fo fhort, thc fliot had torn thc flcfli very much, and made thc wound very painful to thc poor man. After this we distributed fome beads, and departed making various (igns of friend (hip, Thc natives like thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, were Grangers to refentment, and continued to trade with our fliip as before. They fecmed to poffefs a truly mercantile fpirit, and fpared no trouble to obtain fome of our goods or curiofitics. Among thc reft, they were much delighted with a great number of young puppies which wc had taken on board at the Society Iflands, on purpofe to Rock fuch iflands as were not provided with them. Wc left two couple on Namoka, of which the natives promifed to take particular care. Thefe people managed their canoes with furprifing agility, and fwam with thc grcateft cafe. Their common trading canoes were neatly made, and po-lifhed like thofe which I have already defcribed. But thofe of thc neighbouring iflands were of a great fr/c, and fome of of them contained upwards of fifty people. They always confided of two large canoes, fattened by a tranverfe platform of planks, in the midft of which they had erected a hut, where they placed their goods, their arms, and utenfils, and where they palled great part of their time. There were likewife holes, which gave admittance into the body of each canoe. Their malls were (lout poles which could be Rruck at plcafurc, and their fails . were very large and triangular, but not very proper to fail by the wind. All their cordage was excellent, and they had alfo contrived a very good ground tackle, confiding of a ftrong rope with large (loncs at thc end, by means of which they came to an anchor. We went on more again after dinner, as captain Cook propofed leaving this iiland the next day. Wc palled through feveral fields and wild fhrubbcrics, and collected a number of valuable plants. We alfo made a purchafe of feveral arms, fuch as clubs, and fpears, and of fome utenfils, viz. fmall llools, large wooden diflics and bowls, in which the people prepare their victuals, and fome carthern pots which feemed to have been long in ufe. The great abundance of their arms, docs not agree with their good-nature and hofpitable difpofition, unlcfs they quarrel with their next neighbours, like thc people of Taheitee and thc Society iflands. Rut they fccmcd to have (pent too much time Vol. II. Bb in in ornamenting their clubs, to have frequent occafion to> ufe them. At day-break the next morning we unmoored and fct fail, Randing towards the iiland of Tofooa, on which wc had again obfervcd the volcano burning during night. A whole fleet of canoes followed us feveral miles, trading with a variety of articles, particularly their dreflcs, utenfils, and ornaments. Some of them likewife brought fi(h of different forts, which wc had found very well-tailed. The ifland of Namoka, which we left after a Ray of two days only, was not above fifteen miles in circuit, bur fecmed to be remarkably populous. It lies in 200 17' S» and 1 740 32' W. In thc group of iflands which appeared around it, its fize was the moft confldcrable ; but all feemed to be well inhabited, and very rich in vegetable productions. They arc fituatcd on a kind of bank, on which there is from nine to fixty and feventy fathom water, and thc foil is probably thc fame in every ifland. Namoka confflls, like Tonga-Tabboo, of a coral-rock, covered with a rich mould on which all forts of vegetables thrive. Wc had no time to examine thc hillock in its centre, which feems to have had a different origin, and may perhaps be volcanic. At prefent it is wholly covered with thc richefl groves, like the reft of thc ifland. The abundance of frefh water in thc pond, is an advantage which thc people of Namoka enjoy in in preference to thofe of Tonga-Tabboo; but it does not appear that they bathe fo regularly as the Taheitians, perhaps becaufe the flagnant water is not very inviting. Its advantage is however fo much felt, that the natives brought it to thc fhip in calabafhes, and did thc fame to Tafman, which implies that it is looked upon as a valuable article among them. The abundance of water, and the richnefs of thc foil likewife fecms to be the reafon, that bread-fruit and fhaddock trees arc much more frequent, and all vegetation infinitely more luxuriant than on Tonga-Tabboo. The fences on that account are not laid out, and kept up with that extreme regularity, though they are Rill prefcrved in part. The long walks of fruit-trees, and the delightful green turf under them, were rather to be compared to thc richeft fpots on Ea-oowhc, or Middleburg Ifland. The tufted arbours which vaulted over the paths, arc hung with beautiful flowers of all kinds, many of which filled the air with fragrance. The variety of feencs formed by many little rifings, and different groups of houfes and trees, together with thc lagoons, confpirc to adorn this ifland. The fowls and hogs which wc faw in the neighbourhood of every dwelling, the prodigious number of fliaddocks which lay under every tree, hardly noticed by the natives, and the quantities of yams which filled their houfes, gave a picture of abundance and aiUucncc which delighted thc eye and comforted thc heart. At fight of a plenteous profpecT, B b a human human nature feels an inflinctivc fatisfa<5lion, and good humour and joy are foon revived in the moR dejected breaft. Amidft the difmal fcencs of our voyage, thefe intervening* moments arc remarkably contraded, and therefore had a great effect: upon us. It is fo natural to dwell upon plcaf-ing fubjects, that I hope, I need not apologize for my frequent defcriptions ; and I muff refer thc reader to Mr. Hodges's view in thc interior parts of Namoka, which will give an idea of a farm in that iiland. It is engraved and infer ted in captain Cook's account of this voyage. Thc natives, who were happy enough to call thefc fertile groves their own, did not appear to mc to differ in any refpect from thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, and Ea-oowhc. Their ilaturc was middle fized, thcircolour a bright chefnut brown, and their whole body well proportioned, without being corpulent. Their punctures, their drefs, thc cufloms of clipping thc beard, and powdering the hair, their arms, utenfils, and canoes, their language and manners were exactly fuch as wc had noticed at Tonga-Tabboo. But in thc fliort time which wc ftaid on their ifland, we could not obferve any fubordination among them, though this had flrongly cha-ractcrifed thc natives of Tonga-Tabboo, who fccmcd to defcend even to fcrvility in their obcifancc to their king. At Namoka we could not diflinguifli any perfons of fupcrior rank or authority, unlefs wc except the man, whom our failors called a Cuftom-houfe officer, and who infpected all thc thc canoes which came to thc fhip. The woman who fent for the Rolen things, appeared alfo to have fome fway among them ; and fince there is reafon to fuppofc, that women whofe hair are allowed to grow long, have fome prerogatives above the reft in the South Sea *, Mr. Patton's friendly bcncfactrcfs fee CDS to have been a lady of a Riper ior clafs, which her whole deportment confirmed. She was the only woman with long hair whom wc faw on the ifland. I am far from concluding that the people of Namoka have no fixed government ; on thc contrary, their vicinity and fmiilarity to other iflandcrs, amongft whom a monarchical government takes place, and thc example of all the other iflandcrs of thc South Sea which former navigators have examined, give thc grcatcft room to fuppofc thc fame exifling there. Thc general coincidence of their manners with thofe of Tonga-Tabboo, ftrongly prove that they have the fame origin, and probably the fame religious notions j but notwithstanding this agreement, I never found a fayetooka or burying-placc, during my rambles upon Namoka, nor did any one of our fhipmatcs meet with a place in any wife rcfembling thc burying-placcs which wc found at Tonga-Tabboo, It appears, from thc accounts of former voyagers, that between the meridians of 170° call from Greenwich, and * Sec vol. I. p. 327. I 8o° i 8o°, there is a great number of iflands, from thc i oth to thc 22d degree of latitude; all which, as far as they are known, fcem to be inhabited by one race of people, who fpeak the fame dialect of the South Sea tongue, and have thc fame focial and mercantile difpofition. All thefe then might be added to thc Friendly Iflands. They are in general remarkably well inhabited, particularly thofe which we vifitcd. Tonga-Tabboo is almoft one continual garden, and Ea-oowc, Namoka, and thc adjacent iflands, are fome of the mofl fertile fpots in the Pacific Ocean. We lhall therefore be extremely moderate in our calculation, if we fuppofc thc number of inhabitants in all thefe iflands does not exceed 200,000 perfons. Their healthy climate, and its excellent productions, keep them free from thofe numerous difeafes, to which wc fall an cafy prey, and, according to their plain and fimple notions, fatisfy all their wants. Their progrefs in the arts, beyond other nations in thc South Sea, and particularly their refinement in mufic, fervc to pafs away their time agreeably, and give them tafle to acknowledge and difcern the beauties of their own cxquifite forms, from whence one of the flrongcfl ties of fociety is derived. Their general turn is active and induflrious, but their behaviour to (hangers more polite than cordial. Their peculiar pro-penfity to trade feems to have fubflitutcd this infinccrc civility, in the room of real friendfliip, from thofe intcreflcd and mercenary principles which commerce in fpires. Roth thefe thefe characters are in direct oppofition to thofe of the Ta- JgjJ heitians, who delight in an indolent life, and are too hearty in their affections to confine them to outward flicw and fpecious appearances. However there arc many luxurious individuals (arreoys) at the Society Iflands, whofe moral character appears to be fomcwhat depraved; whilfl thc people of thc Friendly Iflands feem to be ignorant of vices, which can only have arifen from a fuperior degree of opulence. The canoes which accompanied us from Namoka returned at noon to fcveral low iflands, all which fccmcd to be well inhabited and fertile, like fo many beautiful gardens. After dinner thc wind became contrary, and abated, fo that we rather lofl than gained ground. A few canoes came up with us again, for the natives fparcd no labour to obtain our nails and rags of cloth. Towards evening wc were furrounded by a little fleet, and thc trade was very briik, chiefly for thc utenfils and arms of the iflandcrs, which are made with remarkable ncatnefs. The canoes returned once more to us thc next morning, Tburfday putting off at day-break from all the little iflands in fight. Their appearance and their failing allbrdcd us much entertainment. Before the wind they go extremely fwift, being Well contrived for that purpofe, and their broad triangular fail gives them a very pietuicfque form at a diftance. We left them in a fliort time, when the breeze frcflicned, and failed failed towards the two high iflands, which we had difcovercd whilft we lay at anchor. In thc afternoon three canoes came up with us again ; and one of them, with 50 men on board, traded with us juft as wc were in the narrow paiTagc between both iflands. The larger, to the fouth-Vi/ard, which is called Tofooa, appeared to be inhabited. Some of the natives on board our (hip told us it had frcth water, together with coco-nut, banana, and bread-fruit trees. Wc faw indeed a number of palms, and a great quantity of the dub-wood. The whole ifland, though flccp, was in fome places covered with verdure or fhrubbery. Towards the fea, and cfpecially towards thc other ifland, thc rocks fccmcd burnt, and black fand covered thc fliore. Wc approached within a cable's length of it, but found a depth of eighty fathom, which prevented our coming to an anchor. Thc rocks towards thc paflage, which was not above a mile acrofs, were cavernous, and in fome places had a rude columnar {tape, Thc day was fomewhat hazy, and the top of thc iiland was therefore covered with clouds, Thcfmokc however rolled up with impetuofity, and fecmed, before we had paired the flrait, to iltiie from the other fide of thc mountain. As foon a3 wv hid patted it, it appeared to arife from the fide which we had jufl left. This deception proves, that thc top of the mountain was hollow, or formed a crater, from whence the vapour was thrown up. There was a fpot on thc N. W. fldc of thc ifland, fomewhat below thc thc place where we faw the fmoke come our, which had *JJ| the appearance of being lately burnt: it was deftitute of verdure, though the mountain on both fides of it was covered with various plants. When we came exactly into the line in which the fmoke was carried by the wind, we had a fmall lliower of rain, and many of us felt it very biting and fharp, when it dropped into our eyes. It is probable from thence, that it carried down with it fome particles which the volcano had ejected. The wind being at S. S. E. and frelhcning, wc left this iiland, without being able to make any farther obfervations upon it ; though ic well defcrved the intention of thc learned, who make thc revolutions which our globe has undergone, thc object of their ufeful and curious enquiries. We failed to thc W. S. W. and continued the fame courfe Fiidayt. all the next day. The following day, very near noon, we difcovercd land, which, from thc direction of our track, had never been fcen by other navigators. Wc ran toward ir, and before night approached pretty near it ; but found breakers before us, which obliged us to tack all night, for fear of an accident. Several lights which appeared on fliore as foon as it was daik, announced to us that the iiland was inhabited. The next morning we bore down upon it again, and &m«w*»7* being in 200 S. we changed our courfe to thc N. W. Our frcfli gale continued without any change till the 13th, Wedwfd. «}l when it was fomewhat abated, and a few drops of rain fell both at night and in thc morning. Thc fecond annivcrfary C c 2 of of our departure from England, which happened on this day,, was celebrated by the failors with their ufual mirth. They drank plentifully, having faved a part of their daily allowance, for this folcmn occafion, and drowned every gloomy idea in grog, the mariner's Lethe. One of them, of a fanatical turn, compofed a hymn on the occafion, as he had done the fir ft year ; and after ferioufly exhorting his fellows to repentance, fat down and hugged the bottle heartily ; but like all the reft, he proved unequal to the conflict, and funk under the powerful influence of his adverfary. The wind frefhencd very much the two following days,, and. on the third the weather became hazy, with ihowcrs of rain. A calabafh, which we obfervcd drifting paft the fhip, feemed to indicate the near approach of land ; and indeed a few hours after, about two o'clock in thc afternoon, on the Saturday 16, 1 6th, we made it at a little diftance before us, being high, and of confidcrablc extent. The gale encreafed towards night, and thc fhip rolled very much ; thc rains were in-ceffant at thc fame time, and coming through the decks into our cabins, thoroughly foaked our books, cloaths, and beds, depriving us of reft. The fame heavy gales, with bad weather, continued all the next day, and fo involved the land in clouds, that wc could fcarcc difcern it, but were forced to (land off and on. This weather was thc more chfagrceablc, as it was unexpected in a fea, which has always been termed Pacific. It proves, that no entire reliance may may be had upon general denominations; and, that though Rorms and hurricanes are perhaps very feldom felt in this ocean, yet it is not wholly free from them. Its weftern part is particularly known for ftrong gales. When captain Pedro Fernandez de Quiros left his Tierra del Efpiritu Santo ; when M. de Bougainville was on the coaft of the Louifiade ; and when captain Cook, in the Endeavour, explored the caftern coaft of New Holland, each of them met with Rormy weather. Perhaps it may be owing to the large lands which are lituatcd in this part of the ocean j at lead it is known, that thc flated winds of the torrid zone become variable in the neighbourhood of high and extenfive coafts. The weather was a little clearer thc next morning, fo that we could venture to run in fhore. We diftinguifhed two iflands, which were the Whitfun and Aurora Iflands, of M. de Bougainville, and ran for the northern extremity of the latter. Thus, after fpending two years in vifiting the difcovcries MOnday it., of former voyagers, in rectifying their miftakes, and in combating vulgar errors, we began thc third, by in-vefligating a group of iflands which the French navigator, prcfled by neceflity, and ill fitted out, had left with precipitation. It was refcrved for this lafl year to teem in new difcoverics, and to make amends for the two firfl. We had, it is true, no reafon to complain, fince moft of the countries we we had vifitcd, were fcarcely known to the world, from the vague and unphilofophical accounts of the difcovcrers. We had room to make a variety of observations on men and manners, which, though they ought to be the firft objects of travellers, have Rill been poftponed, even by thofe who have aimed at being looked upon by the world as thc moft enlightened. But, as mankind are ever captivated by the charms of novelty, the hiftory of our t ran factions, during the enfuing months, will have that advantage at leafl to recommend it to their attention. END OF THE SECOND BOOK. A VOYAGE A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. BOOK III. CHAP. I. An account of our Jlay at MaL'icoIIo, and difcovery of the New Hebrides, II7E reached the north-point of Aurora ifland at eight »m-W in the morning, on the i 8th of July, and pafling Monday l8' very clofc to it, obferved vafl numbers of coco-nut-palms on all parts of it, not excepting the high ridges of the ifland. The whole, as far as a thick haze permitted us to fee, was clad in thick forefts which had a plcafmg, but wild appearance. My father had a momcntaneous glimpfe of a fmall rocky peak to thc northward, which M. Bougainville calls Pic dc 1'litoilc, or Pic d'Avcrdi; but the clouds which moved with great velocity foon involved it. By thc help of glailcs fome natives were fcen on Aurora, and as wc we approached nearer, we heard them calling to one another. Having palled the north end of 'Aurora, we Rood to thc fouthward along its weftern coaft, as far as the wind would permit, which blew more foutherly than eallerly. We had only this advantage, that being fheltercu by the land on all fides, the water was remarkably fmooth, though the gale continued. Thc iiland which M. de Bougainville named the Ifle of Lepers, was right a-hcad of us, and we pa (Ted the day in tacking between it and Aurora. At four o'clock in the afternoon, we approached within a mile and a half of the former, and in fpite of thc clouds which refted on its heights, faw fo much of the lower grounds, that we had reafon to think it a very fertile ifland. Thc place where we approached it was very flcep, nor could wc find bottom with one hundred and twenty fathoms. However, the north eafl point was lower, and covered with all forts of trees. The palms in particular were innumerable, and to our furprize grew on the hills, where we had never feen them in other iflands. Several confiderable cafcades rufhed down the precipices into the fea, amidlt fhrubbcrics which formed as rich an ornament as in the landfcapcs of DuJky Bay. Having put about, wc obferved a turtle flccping on thc water, which thc violence of the wind did not fecm to aflccT. We tacked all night in order to gain to thc fouthward, being defirous of pafling between the Ifle of Lepers and Aurora. Wc came clofc under thc former again at eight eight in the morning. Having put about, a fmali canoe ventured out with a fingle man in it. We made a fliort trip, and returned towards the fliore, where three men in another canoe were preparing to come to us. Several people fat on the rocks and projecting bluff points. Some were blackened from the head downwards, as far as the bread ; they had fomcthing white on their heads, but went naked, with a rope about the waift. Only one of them had a cloth acrofs one flioulder, which came under the oppoftte arm like a fcarf, and then round his loins ; it feemed to he of a dirty white with a reddifh border. All thefe people were of a dark brown colour, and armed with bows and long arrows. Thofe who came off in canoes, came very near us, talking loud and unintelligibly for fome time, but conftantly rcfufed to come on board. Having been obliged to put about the fhip, they left us, and returned to their countrymen on fliore. In feveral places we obferved reeds like hurdles, Handing up between thc rocks, which fccmcd to be fo placed in order to catch fifh. Wc now approached thc ifle of Aurora, where wc obferved a fine beach, and the mofl luxuriant vegetation that ean be conceived. The whole country was woody ; num-offriefa climbers ran up thc highefl trees, and forming gar-lands and fedoons between them, cmbellifhed the fcenc. A neat plantation fenced with reeds, flood on the flopc of thc hill/and a beautiful cafcade poured down through the V0l. II. D d adja- Julv. adjacent forefl. About two o'clock three canoes came oil from* the iiland of Aurora, when we were clofe in more, but as we could not ilay for them, they returned like thofe of Lepers Iiland. The iiland of Aurora is about twelve leagues long, but not above five miles broad in any part, lying nearly north and fouth. The middle is in 150 6' S. and 168° 24E. Its mountain or ridge is fharp, and of confiderable height. Whithm Iiland, which lies about four miles to the fouth of it, runs in the fame direction, and is of the fame length, but appears to be fomewhat broader at its northern extremity. Its middle lies in 1 5 0 45' S. and in 1 68° 28' caff longitude. The Ifle of Lepers is almoft as large as Aurora, but of greater breadth, and its fituation is nearly caff and wcR j the middle lies in 15 0 2o' fouth, and 1 68° 3' eaR. Whitfun Ifland, as well as thc Ifle of Lepers, having more Hoping cxpofurcs than Aurora, appear to be better inhabited, and to contain more plantations. At night we obfervcd many fires on them, particularly the firft, where they extended to the tops of the hills. This circumflancc feems to prove, that they live in great mcafurc on agriculture ; and fince they have but few canoes, and their fliorcs very ileep, fifhing docs not feem to employ them fo much as other illanders. w«*m1& 10. The iiland which M. dc Bougainville has placed to thc fouthward of Whitfun Ifland, came in fight the next morning, morning, but was Rill fo much involved in clouds, that we could not diflinguifh its form or height. We pafTed all that day in working to windward, which we performed with better fuccefs, as the gale had a little abated. The next morning we had moderate and fair weather, Thurfday %tt and faw M. de Bougainville's fouthern ifland very diflincldy. There was a paffage between it and the fouth end of Whitfun Bland, about fix miles in breadth. A long low point extended from this fouthern ifland to the eaflward ; and all its north fide, though fteep towards thc fea, rofe from thence with a gentle and gradual afcent to thc highefl mountains in the centre. In the mountains, which were Rill covered with clouds, we obferved fome volumes, as it appeared, of fmoke, which indicated a volcano. This iiland is about feven leagues in length, and its middle lies in 1 6° is' S. and 1680 20' E. Later in thc day wc difcovercd land to the weftward, which proved to be the fouth-weAernmoft land feen by M. de Bougainville. Wc advanced towards it, overjoyed with the variety of new iflands which prcfented themfelves to our view. Having reached the N. W, end of thc former ifland, on which wc lufpccTcd a volcano, we were convinced of its cxiflencc, by columns of white fmoke, which rolled up with, great violence from thc fummit of an inland mountain. The whole fouth-weft coaft of this ifland flopcd into a very fine and cxtcnlivc plain, on which innumerable fmokes arofe, between thc richefl groves which our eyes had be- D d 2 held held fince our departure from Taheitee. The populoufnefs of the country was flrongly evinced by its fertile appearance, and by the number of fires. Wc opened two other iflands to the fouth-caftward, after pafling the weft end of this land, one of which was a very high peak, which looked like a volcanic mountain. Another ifland, with three high hills, alfo appeared to thc fouth, at a great diflance. Thc weflern land, towards which we failed, was not lefs beautiful than that which we left. Its groves had thc richeft tints of verdure, and coco-palms were fcattcrcd between them in vaft numbers. The mountains rofe far inland, and before them lay feveral lower ground?!, all covered with woods, and bounded by a fine beach. At noon wc came clofc in ihore, and faw many natives wading into the water to the waift, having clubs in their hands, but waving green boughs, thc univerfal figns of peace. One of them had a fpear, and another a bow and arrows. Contrary to their expectations, and perhaps their wiflics, wc put about again. However after dinner two boats were hoifled out, and fent to found in a little harbour, which we obfervcd from the fhip. Thc whole fouth point of this little bay, which was bounded by a coral reef, was lined by fcveral hundred inhabitants, of whom a few ventured out in their canoes towards the (hip and the boats. 'Ihey did not approach near thc ihip whilfl (he flaid out at fea ; but thc boa is having made the fignal for good anchorage, we came in after them, into a narrow harbour, with reefs at thc entrance, but which which feemed to go inland to a confidcrablc dillance. Oar boats returned on board, and the officer acquainted the captain, that thc natives had come within a few yards in their canoes, but had not offered the lead infult ; on the contrary 5 they had waved green boughs, and dipping their hands into fait water, had poured it on their heads. This compliment our officer returned, much to their iatisfa<5tion, it being probably a fign of friendship. They now approached the fhip in their canoes, waving green plants, particularly the leaves of the dracana termbialis, and of a beautiful erofon Vmiegdturn, and repeating the word Tomarr or Tomarro continually, which feemed to be an exprcilion equivalent to thc Tahcitian Tayo (friend.) The greater* part of them were however armed with bows and arrows, and a few with fpcars ; being thus prepared, at all events, both for peace and war. By degrees they ventured near the fhip, and received a few pieces of Taheitee cloth, which they eagerly accepted. Prefently they handed up fome of their arrows in exchange \ at full fuch as were pointed with wood only, but foon after even fuch as were armed with points of bone, and daubed with a black gummy fluff, on which account we fufpected them to be poifoncd. A young Tahcitian puppy was therefore wounded in the leg with one of thefe arrows, to try its effect; but we perceived no dangerous fymptoms. The language of thefe people was fo utterly different from. from all thc South Sea dialects which we had hitherto heard, that we could not underfland a fingle word of it. It was much harfiier than any of them, and the r, s, rJ, and other confonants abounded in it. The people themfelves differed from any that we had hitherto feen. They were all remarkably Render, and in general did not exceed five feet four inches in height. Their limbs were often indifferently proportioned, their legs and arms long and Aim, their colour a blackiRi brown, and their hair black, frizzled and woolly. Their features were more extraordinary than all the veil. They had thc flat broad nofe and projecting cheekbones of a Negroc, and a very fliort forehead, which had fometimes an unufual direction, being fomcthing more deprcflld than in well-formed men. Many of them were belides this painted with a black colour in thc face and over thc bread, which disfigured them more than their natural uglinefs. A few had a fmall cap on thc head, made of matted work, but all went flark naked, and tied a rope fo fall round their belly, that it made a deep notch. Moft other nations invent fome kind of covering, from motives of fliamc ; but here a roll of cloth continually faliened to thc belt, rather difplays than conceals, and is the very oppo-lite of modefly. They continued about the (hip, talking with great vociferation, but at the fame time in fuch a good-humoured manner, that wc were much entertained. We had no fooncr fooncr looked at one of them, that he began to chatter with- jJly. out referve, and grinned almoft like Milton's Death. This ci ram; fiance, together with their flender form, their ugly features, and their blaek colour, often provoked us to make an ill-natured comparifon between them and monkies. We fhould be lorry, however, to fupply RoufTeau, or the fupcr-ficial philofophers who re-echo his maxims, with the flia-dow of an argument in favour of the Orang-outang fyflem. We rather pity than defpife thefe men, who can fo far forget and abufe their own intellectual faculties, as to degrade themfclves to the rank of baboons. When it was dark the natives returned on fhore, where they made a number of fires, and were heard fpeaking as loud among themfclves as they had done to us, About eight, however, they all returned to thc fliip in their canoes, with burning firebrands, in order to have another conver-fation. On their part they carried it on with furprifing fpi-rit, but we did not reply with equal volubility. Thc evening was very fine and calm, and thc moon fhone out at times. Seeing that wc were not fo talkative as themfelves, they offered to fell us their arrows and other trifles ; but captain Cook prohibited thc trade, in order to get rid of them. Wc were furprifed with their behaviour, it being tmufual to fee any Indians awake and active about the fhip after fun let. Some thought they only came as fpies, to fee whether wc were upon our guard j but their inoffcnfivc behaviour T'^4; haviour feemed to free them from this fufpicion. When they found us refolved not to barter with them, they re-treated to the fliore towards midnight. We heard them finging and beating their drums all night, and could ob-ferve them fometimes dancing ; fo that wc concluded they were of a very chcarful difpofition. Frid»yix. They gave us very little refpitc in the morning. At day break they came off in their canoes, and began to call to us, frequently intermixing the word Tomarr in their noify fpeeches. Four or five of them came on board the fhip without any arms : they foon became familiar, and with thc greatcll cafe climbed up the fhrouds to the maft-head. When they came down again, thc captain took them into his cabin, and gave them prefents of medals, ribbons, naib, and pieces of red baize. They were the moft intelligent people we had ever met with in thc South Seas ; they underftpod our figns and gefturcs, as if they had been long acquainted with them, and in a few minutes taught us a great number of their words. Their language was really as we had immediately fufpeeted, wholly dillmet from that general language, of whieh feveral dialects arc fpoken at the Society Iflcs, the Marqucfas, thc Friendly Iflcs, the Low Iflands, Laftcr Iiland, and New Zeeland. It was not difficult to pronounce, but contained more confonants than any of the dialects here mentioned. Thc moil lingular found was a fhaking or vibration of brrr together. Thus, for in- flance, ftancc, one of our friends was called Mambrmm, and the other Bonombrrooai. Whatever they law, they coveted ; but they never repined at a refufal. The looking-glafles which we gave them were particularly admired, and they took great pleafure in looking at themfelves j fo that thefe ugly people feemed to have more felf- conceit, than the beautiful nation at Taheitee and the Society Iflands. They had perforated ears, and a bole in the feptum narium, into which they put a bit of Rick, or two little pieces of white felenite or alabafler, which are tied together in an obtufe angle. On the upper arm they wore bracelets, very neatly wrought, of fmall pieces of black and white fliells. Thefc bracelets fitted fo clofely, that it was plain they had been put on whilfl their owners were young; for at prefent it was quite impoflible to draw them over the elbow. Their fkins were very foft and fmooth, and of a footy or blackifli-brown colour, which was heightened by black paint in thc lace. Their hair was frizzled, and woolly to the touch, though not of thc foftcft. Their beards were frizzled, but not woolly, and well furnifhed with hair. They had no punctures on their body, but indeed they could not have been feen on their black fkin at any confidorablc diflance. Mr. Hodges took an opportunity of drawing their portraits, one of which has heen engraved for captain Cook's account of the voyage. It is very characterise of the nation ; but we mull lament, that a defect in thc drawing, has made it ne-Vol. [I, E c ceffary ceflary to infringe the coflume> and to throw a drapery over the fhoulder, though thefe people have no kind of cloathing. They were eafily perfuaded to fit for their portraits, and feemed to have an idea of the reprefcntations. We were deeply engaged in convcrfation with them, and they feemed happy beyond meafure, when thc firfl lieu-tuiant came into thc cabin. Lie acquainted captain Cook that one of the natives having been denied admittance into the fhip, which was by this time crouded with them, had pointed his arrow at thc failor in our boat, who pufhed back his canoe. Before he had done fpeaking, our acute natives gucfled his errand, and having before obfervcd the windows open, one of them inftamly jumped out, and {warn to his outrageous countryman to hold his hands. The captain went upon deck prefently, and took up a, mufket, which he pointed at the native, who pcrfiftcd in his attitude in fpitc of his fellows. Seeing that captain Cook had levelled at him, he alfo pointed his arrows at him. At this moment, thc reft of the natives around thc fhip called to thofe in thc cabin; thefc fearing thc word confequenccs from thc violence of their countryman, hurried out of the windows, notwithstanding all our endeavours to quiet their apprehcnlions. We heard a mufket fired off the inflant after, and repairing on deck, faw the native who had received fome fmall fliot, very deliberately laying by his arrow, which was only pointed with wood, and fclceling one t one of thofe which we believed to be poifoned. As foon as he had taken aim, the third lieutenant fired at him again ; the fmall Riot which he received in his face, obliged him to give up all thoughts of fighting, and he paddled quickly towards the fhore. At the fame moment an arrow was fliot oR from the other fide of the fhip, which fell in the mizen ihrouds. A ball was fzred after the native who fent it to us, but luckily without effect Every canoe now moved gradually towards the fliore, and all who were on board flung themfclves into the fea; one in particular, who was at the mafl-hcad when the fray began, not thinking of any harm, came down with the greateft precipitation when thc mufkets went off. To terrify thefe people, and to give them a fpecimenof our power, a cannon was fired over their heads among thc trees on fliore. This accelerated their retreat; the ncarcfl to us jumped out of their canoes in a fright, and all reached the fliore in great confufion. Prefently their drums began to beat in different parts, to give thc alarm, and thc poor fellows were fecn running along fhore, and huddling under the bufhes together, in clofe confultation on this alarming crilis of their affairs, in thc mean while we went quietly to breakfail. At nine o'clock fome canoes again made their appearance, rowing round thc fhip, and very cautioully coming nearer. Wc waved to them with a branch of thc Aracana r,7mnak'v, which wc had before received •, and after they had E c 2 dipped dipped their hands in the fea, and put them on their heads, they received a few prefents which captain Cook gave them, and went away to thc more. Two of our boats were now manned, and a party of marines embarked wTith the captain, my father, Dr. Sparrman, myfelf, and feveral others. A reef bounded thc fhorc at the diftance of thirty yards or more. It was fo fhallow, that wc were forced to Rep out, and wade to thc beach, where our marines formed without oppofition. Wc were received by a croud of no lefs than three hundred perfons, all armed, but very friendly and in-offenfivc in their behaviour towards us. A middle-aged man, rather flrongcr than thc generality of the people, gave away his bow and quiver to another, and came unarmed to ihake hands with us, in fign of peace and amity ; he was perhaps a> chief among them. A pig was brought at the lame time, and prcfented to the captain, apparently as a kind of expiation for their countryman's ill behaviour ; but perhaps it was only a ratification of the peace which we had concluded. This interview is rcprcfented in a fine plate, dcligncd by Mr. I lodges, and engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. After wc had received the pig, wc cxprcfled by figni that wc wanted wood, and they immediately pointed out fome trees which grew clufe to the beach, which we cut down, and fawed in pieces. Thc beach did not exceed fifteen yards in breadth ; and our fituation was very precarious in ca(c of an attack. The marines marines therefore drew a line before them, which thc natives were defire not to tranfgrefs. They readily complied with this regulation; but their numbers encreafed from all parts continually. They were all armed with bows ready fining, made of a tough dark-brown wood, finer than mahogany ; and with arrows, which they held in a cylindrical quiver, formed of leaves. All thefe arrows were made of reeds about two* feet long; thofe of the common fort had a point about a foot or fifteen inches long, confifling of a polifhed jetty black wood, like ebony, but exccflivciy brittle ; the refl, which were kept in quivers, were all pointed with a fliort bit of bone, two or three inches long. This was infertcd in a notch of thc reed, which was again curioufly and firmly united together by means of finglc coco-nut fibres, wound acrofs each other, fo as to form little rhomboidal compartments, about vo of an inch fquare, which were filled up with minute attention, alternately with a reddifh, green, and white earthy colour. The point of bone iifelf was very fharp, and fmcarcd with a black rcfinous fubflancc. We left our lines, and walked over amongft: the natives, who converfed with lis, and with great good-will fat down on thc flump of a u ec to teach us their language. They were ftrrprifed at our rcadinefs to remember, and feemed to fpend fothe time in pondering how it was pofliblc to prcfervc thc found by fuch means as pencil and paper. They were not only ailiduous in teaching, but had curiofity enough to learn tm* learn our language, which they pronounced with Rich accuracy, that we had reafon to admire their extenfive faculties and quick apprchenfion. Obferving their organs of fpecch to be fo flexible, we tried the moR difficult founds in the European languages ; nay, wc had rccourfe to thc compound Ruffian Jbtcbt all which they pronounced at thc firfl. hearing, without the leaft difficulty. We prefently taught them our numerals, which they icpcatcd rapidly on their fingers ; in fliort, what they wanted in perfonal attraction, was amply made up in acutenefs of underfland-ing. Wc began to trade with them for their arms, but they were at full very loth to exchange them ; however, a handkerchief, or piece of Taheitee cloth, or Englifli frieze, was of fome value among them. They began to fell their common arrows, and afterwards thofe which were poifoned ; but advifed us not to try thc points againft our fingers, making us underfland, by the plainefl fjgns, that with a common arrow, a man might bj fhot through the arm without dying, but that the High left feratch with one of thc other fort was mortal. If notwithilanding this information, we attempted to bring the point on our fingers, they caught hold of our arm, with thc moll friendly geflure, to fave us, as it were, from imminent danger. Bcfidcs bows and arrows, they wore a club of the cafuarina-wood, which hung on their right lZiouldcr, from a thick rope, made of a kind of grafs. This club club was commonly knobbed at one end, and very well polifhed, like all their manufactures. It did not exceed two feet and a half in length, and appeared to be referved for clofe engagement, after emptying the quiver. On the left wrift, they wore a circular wooden plate neatly covered, and joined with Rraw, about five inches in diameter, upon which they broke the violence of the recoiling bow-ftring, and prevented it from hurting their arms. This kind of ruflle, and their ornaments, fuch as the bracelets above mentioned, pieces of fhell cut in form of large rings, which were alfo worn on thc arm, the (lone in their nofc, and thc fhell which hung on their bread, fufpended by a firing round the neck, they at this time rcfufed to fell. Wc obfervcd no new plants on thc borders of the beach where our people cut down trees ; but the country within looked very tempting, being one great forcft. Dr. Sparrman, and myfelf, obferving a path which afcended into thc wood behind fome buflres, went in unnoticed, and advanced about twenty yards, where wc fortunately found two fine new plants. Hut we had fcarcely made this valuable ac-quifition, when fome of the natives appeared coming from the country, who at fight of us flopped, and made repeated figns to us to return to thc beach. We beckoned to them, and flicwed them the plants which wc had collected, intimating as well as our gcflurcs could cxprefs it, that we had come for no other purpofc. This pretence availed us nothing *, nothing ; and as they continued to call us our of thc wood, we complied for fear of raifmg a new diflurbance. The wood which we had thus fuddenly quitted, was very dark and interfperfed with bufhes. However, a bro d mafs of light in thc interior pans, fccmcd to indicate a plantation, which we mould have reached, if we had not been too early interrupted. The various voices of women and children, which iflliecl from that fpot confirmed our conjecture. Thc trees which grew in thc wood, were in general of will known forts ; btit among thc under-woods there appeared fcveral forts hitherto unnoticed. From thc fhip however, we had perceived vafl numbers of coco palms, fome bana-11 is, bread-fruit, and other valuable cultivated trees, of which the natives had given us thc names. Capt tin Cook having in thc mean while, afked for rYeft water, the pcrfon whom wc fuppofed to be a chief, fent for a calabafh full, which was very pure, and alfo prcfented thc captain with a coco-nut; but in fpitc of all our enquiries, we could not prcvad upon the natives to bring us any more. A few of them wore a fmall bunch of greens on their arm, which we knew to be part of an odoriferous plant of a new genus, named audit (Fork Nov. Gen.) Some fullered us to rake and examine it, but others took it out of our hands and threw it away, with an angrv ex pre (lion, a1, if it was cither noxious or ominous. We had hc-qucntly eaten thc feeds of this plant, which arc finely aromatic, without without fuffcring the leaR inconvenience, and were well j£7i.\:. convinced, that the whole plant was very harmlefs ; but whether it might not be a fign of enmity or defiance, in thc fame manner as many others arc cilecmcd emblems of fricndiliip, mud remain in doubt. The tide was now fo low, that the reef remained quite dry behind us, and a great number of the natives had walked over it to our boats, where they traded with thc crew. Being in fome meafure furrounded by thefc people, thc marines were placed alternately towards the fliore and thc fea, in order to prefent a front both ways ; though it did not appear that thc natives had the lcaft intention of quarrelling with us. Wc converfed very freely with them, and their tongues ran on with fuch unremitted volubility, that we compared thc noife about us, to thc confufed uproar in a great lair. Our aflonifhmcnt therefore, may fooncr be conceived than defcribed, when this chattering ccafed all at once, and a dead filcnce fuccceded.—We looked at each Other, we threw our eyes wildly about, and joined thc wings at opt corps de garde. The natives fecmed to Hand in expectation of fome mifchance ; but by degrees feeing us quiet, they began to talk again, and in a few minutes, mutual confidence was rcftored. Thc circumflance which had given rife to this alarm was trifling in itielf, but cx-preffed the good difpofition of the natives towards us. One of our boat's crew, had dcfircd a native to flioot an arrow Vol. II. 1 1 into into the air as high as he could. Thc man very readily complied, and had drawn his bow, when fome of his countrymen, recollecting that we might look upon this as an infringement of thc peace, called out to him to flop, and alarmed all the people on the beach, by pronouncing a few words, which immediately produced univcrfal fdencc, ex-preiling extreme jealoufy in. a moft dreadful manner, and affording a proper fubject to cxcrcifc thc talents of painters and poets. Affrighted countenances, full of anxiety and horrid fufpenfe ; many a wild flare, many a gloomy, mif-chicvous look, and fome undaunted Ready glances ; aa infinite variety of attitudes; a characterise difference in thc manner of handling the arms ; thc fecne, the groups of inhabitants, &c. all confpircd to furnifh thc proper requi-fites for a good picture. As foon as this alarm was over, our wood-cutters refumcd their occupations, and the natives admired their fkill. A few women now likewife came to our lines, but remained at fome dillancc. They were of fmall flature, and had thc mofl difagrecablc features which wc had obferved in the South Sea. Thofe who were grown up, and probably married, had fliort pieces of a kind of cloth, or rather matting round their waifls, reaching nearly to the knees ; thc reft had only a firing round the middle with a whifp of flraw ; and thc younger ones, from infancy to the age of ten years, went flark naked, like thc boys of thc fame age. Some of thefc A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 219 - *• ■ m - ' w —-IBS -•» % thefc women had covered their heads with the Orange July powder of turmeric-root; fome had daubed their face, and others their whole body with this colour, which on their dark ikins had a moR filthy effect:. But with their countrymen it is probably efteemcd an ornament, as the tafte of mankind is aflonifhingly various. We did not obfervc, that thefe women had any finery in their ears, round their neck, or arms; for it fcems it is fafhionable in the ifland, only for the men to adorn themfclves. Wherever that is thc cafe, the fex is commonly opprcfTcd, defpifed, and in a deplorable fituation. They were fecn with bundles on their backs, which contained their children, and had a moR miferable appearance. Thc men feemed to have no kind of regard for them, would not permit them to come nearer; and as oft as wc went towards them, the women ran away. About noon a great part of the croud difperfed, probably to take their dinner. Captain Cook received an invitation from the chief, to accompany him to his dwelling in the woods, but declined it ; and having continued on more till one o'clock, wc all re-imbarked in the bcR order, without any molellation from the natives, who remained on the beach till we were on board. M. de Bougainville had not been fo fortunate at thc Ifle of Lepers ; the natives were very friendly to appearance, till all his men were embarked ; but a flight of arrows was then fent after them, and re- V f 2 venged tjj£ vengcd by a volley of mufketry, which killed feveral natives. As thefe iflanders live in fight of each other, and M. de Bougainville's vifit was fo recent, the natives with whom we had to deal, were probably apprifed of thc power of Europeans, and therefore acted with caution. Immediately after dinner, captain Cook and my father went afhorc on the north fide of the harbour, in quefl of our buoy, which the natives had conveyed thither, and which we faw on the beach by thc help of our glaffcs. In the mean time the fouthern fhorc, on which wc had landed in the morning, was entirely clear of the natives ; but in the woods we heard the frequent fqucaking of pigs, from whence it may be concluded that thc natives poflefs great numbers of thefe animals. Soon after our boat's departure, feveral natives in their canoes came alongiidc to trade with us. They readily fold us their bows and arrows, clubs and fpears, for old rags and other trifles, plying between the fliip and the fliore all thc evening. Their canoes were fmall, not exceeding twenty feet in length, of indifferent workmanfliip, and without ornament, but provided with an outrigger. The number which came to the fhip never amounted to more than fourteen, which fecms to confirm that thefe people are no great fifhcrmen. Our boat returned before funfet, with the buoy which they had taken as foon as they landed, without any oppo-fition on the part of thc natives. Some trifling appendages to to it were loR, but thefe could eafily be replaced. The inhabitants of that part traded with the captain and his company, felling their arms and ornaments for various trifles of no intrinfic worth. An old woman parted with two femi-tranfparcnt bits of felenitcs, cut into a conical fhape, and connected at thc pointed ends, by means of a ribbon made of leaves. The diameter of the broad end was about half an inch, and the length of each bit three quarters of an inch. She took it out of the hole in the cartilage of her nofc, which was very broad, ugly, and fmcarcd with black paint. Our people took great pains to obtain refreshments from the natives ; but notwithflanding all their figns, they did not bring.a fingle article of food. Our goods, no doubt, did not fecm valuable enough in their eyes, to be confidered as an equivalent to eatables, which are always thc real riches of mankind. Upon this plain principle the people of thc South Sea always acted j and from the value which they put on our goods, after they were acquainted with their ufes, wc can with a degree of certainty judge of their opulence, or thc fertility of their country, from hence they flill proceeded northward, towards the exterior point of the harbour. Here they found fome bananas, bread-fruit trees, coco-palms, and other plants, feparated by an cnclofure; and near them fome dwellings of thc natives, wretched hovels, of an inconfidcrablc fize, and fo low that they could hardly Rand upright in them. They confined of a roof thatched thatched with palm-leaves, refting on a few polls. Here however they obfervcd a great many hogs, and fome common poultry. The natives feemed to be convinced that our people had no finiflcr intentions, and cxprcflcd much lefs curiofity than in thc morning. Their numbers were in-confiderable in this place; and though they did not entirely approve of captain Cook's vifit to their houfes, they did not oppofe it with pcrfcvcrancc. From hence our gentlemen proceeded farther towards the point, till they came in fight of thc three iflands to thc eailward, of which they learnt the names. The largeff, on which we had obferved the volcano, was called Ambrrym, thc high peek Pa-odm, and the fouthcmmotl Apec. This good fuccefs encouraged them to point to thc land on which they flood, and to enquire of thc natives by what name that Wafe diftinguifhed. The name of fVlallicollo, which they immediately received in anfwer, was fo llrikingly fmiilar to Mmicolo, which cap-tain Qtjiros had received and prcfcivcd above i 60 years ago, that they rejoiced to obtain fuch indifputablc proof of his veracity, h appears from Quiros's account, that he ne~ vcr viftted Mailicollo himfelf, hut only received intelligence of it from thc natives ; however, that his Tierra del Kfpiiitu Santo is a part of this group of iflands, feemed at prefent to he very clear. Having obtained this information, they return \1 to their boats ; but in their way one of them picked up an orange on the fliore, which he fhewed to thc natives. They They told him the name which it bears in their country, and thus gave another proof that the accounts of Quiros, relative to thc productions of the lands difcovercd by him, are not void of foundation. We had found fhaddocks in the friendly Iflands, but never met with oranges in any iiland of thc Pacific Ocean before. Thc ideas of the natural riches of the iiland of Mallicollo were confiderably railed after this confirmation of Quiros's reports. Our people rowed into the harbour near two miles, and found its bottom filled with mangroves, but could not meet with freih wa.rer. A river probably flowed into the fea among thefe mangroves, but it was in vain to attempt a paffage through the clofe tiffue of their branches, which multiply out of every feed, without forming a feparate tree. The evening was very hot, and they returned on board heartily tired. As they rowed along thc fliore, they heard the drums beating, and faw the natives dancing to thc found by their fires. Their mufic, and that which they made the preceding night, was not remarkable cither for harmony or variety, but fccmcd to be of a more lively turn than that of the friendly Iflands. During night feveral of our people tried to fifh, and fome of them were fucccfsful. One caught a fliark nine feet long, which was now very acceptable, all our frefh provifions being entirely confumcd, excepting a few yams, which were eaten inflcad of bread. Another took an Indian dian fucking-fifh (echeneis naucrates) near two feet long ; and a third made prize of two large red fifties of the fea-bream kind (probably thc fparus erythrinus, Linn,) one of which he kept for his meRmates, and the other he prcfented to thc lieutenants. The captain received a fliare of thc fhark, on which wc fcafled the next day, when thc whole (hip's company regaled themfelves with a frefli meal. Sharks do not afford a very palatable food, but it was at all times preferable to fait provifions, and ncccRity taught us to relifh it. This ferere teacher reconciles thc Grccnlander to whale-blubber, and the Hottentot to filthy intellincs ; and time makes thefc indelicate viands acceptable and delicious to their uille. This (hark, when cut open, was found to have the bone point of a poifoned arrow (ticking in his head, having been (hot quite through thc ikull. The wound was healed fo perfectly, that not the fmallcll vcilige of it appeared on the outlide. A piece of the wood fUll remained fluking to thc bony point, as well as a few fibres with which it had been tied on; but both thc wood and the fibre! were fo rotten, as to crumble into duR at thc touch. Lilhcs therefore arc not affected by thefe arrows, which wc fuppofed to be poifoned. The next morning we weighed the anchor and fet fail, having learcely had time fudicient to fketch a plan of the harbour, which was honoured with the title of Tort Sandwich. Its lunation, deduced from agronomical ohlerva- tions, dons, is in i6° 28' fouth lat. and i6y° 56' eafl long. Wc jl^A. were becalmed before we could clear the reefs, and obliged to fend our boats ahead to tow us out, which they performed very flowly and with great difficulty. In thc mean time thc natives came to us with all their fourteen canoes, and fold us great numbers of arrows of all kinds and fome clubs. They made fcveral trips between thc fhip and the fhore, as they had done the preceding day, and fecmed to be very eager to part with their arms for Taheitce cloth. We repeated our demand for provifions ; but they would not lillcn to it, and only parted with what they could more eafily fpare or replace. Towards noon wc got clear of thc harbour, and left Mallicollo with thc fea-brccze, which then frefhened, (landing over to Ambrrym, or thc Ifland of Volcanoes. Whether wc might have obtained fome re-frefhmcnts by flaying a tew d lys longer and improving our acquaintance with thc natives, is very uncertain ; for fince they let no value on our iron-ware, wc could offer no equivalent tor their provifions. The iiland of Mallicollo h about twenty leagues long from north to font!), and thc port which wc had left lies in us fouth-cail extremity. Its inland mountains arc very hi . i, clad with tuielts, and without doubt contain many fine ipiings, though wc could not trace them between the ;!( . The foil, as far as wc were able to examine it, is a rich and fertile mould, like that Which covers thc plains of Vol. II. G g the the Society Iflands j and the vicinity of thc volcano at Am-hrrym gave us great room to fuppofe that Mallicollo is no Rrangcr to the proccffcs carried on in thefe natural laboratories. Its vegetable productions fccm to be luxuriant and in great variety, and thc ufeful plants not lefs numerous than in thc iflands wc had before vifited. Coco nuts, breadfruit, bananas, fugar-canes, yams, eddoes, turmcrick, and oranges were fcen on the ifland, and enumerated by the natives. Hogs and common poultry arc their domcflic animals ; to which wc have added dogs, by felling them a pair of puppies brought from thc Society Iflands. They re> ceived them with flrong figns of extreme fatisfacTion j but as they called them hogs, (broods,) we were convinced that they were entirely new to them. We did not find any other quadruped during our fliort flay, nor is it probable that, on an ifland fo far remote from continents, there fliould be any wild animals of that clafs. In thc courfe of one day, and confined to a barren beach, it is not likely that we could form i more adequate idea of thc animals than of thc vegetables of this country. Wc faw enough, however, to he convinced, that the woods are inhabited by many fpecies of birds, among which there are doubtlcfs fome which have as yet efcaped the attention of naturalifls. Thc productions of Mallicollo are, however, lefs remarkable and linking at full light than the race of its inhabitants. To judge of their numbers from the croud we faw at at Port Sandwich, I Riould conclude, that they are far from inconfidcrable ; but confidering the great fize of the ifland, I cannot fuppofc it to be. very populous. Fifty thoufand is, I think, thc grcateR number we can admit; and thefe are not confined to thc fkirts of the hills, as at Taheitee, but difperfed over the whole extent of more than fix hundred fquare miles. We ought to figure their country to ourfelves as one extenfive forefi.: they have only begun to clear and plant a few infulated fpots, which arc loft in it, like fmall iflands in thc vail Pacific Ocean. Perhaps if we could ever penetrate through the darknefs which involves thc hiflory of this nation, we might find that they have arrived in thc South Sea much later than thc natives of thc Friendly and Society Iflands. So much at lcaft is certain, that they appear to be of a race totally diftincL from thefc. Their form, their language, and their manners flrongly and completely mark the difference. The natives on fome parts of New Guinea and Papua feem to correfpond in many particulars with what wc have obferved among the Millicollefc. Thc black colour and woolly hair in particular arc characlcriflics common to both nations. If thc influence of climate be admitted, which is fo llrongly defended by count Buffon, it offers another proof that Mallicollo has been but lately peopled*, face the interval of time has not been fufficient to work a change in thc colour and hair of thc inhabitants. * The render will perceive that we only ufe this CAprcflicn comparatively, G g 2 hut lUX But I am far from being convinced of this general and powerful influence of climates. I have only ventured out into thc great field of probabilities, and am ready to quit my opinion as foon as another more jufl and more rational is offered. New Guinea and the iflands adjacent, thc only countries from whence we can expect fome light on this iabject, Rill remain unknown to us, not only in regard to their geographical fituation, but more efpccially as to their inhabitants. From the voyagers who have vifitcd that part of thc world * it appears that many diflinct tribes dwell in its different parts. But it is particularly to be remarked, that befides the black race, there are alfo fome of a lighter colour, who, if wc may judge from their cuftoms, fecm to be related to the natives of the Society and Friendly Iflands. Some other tribes there are who may, in all probability, be a mixture of both races. Thc flender form of thc Mallicol-lele is a character, as far as I know, peculiar to them and the New Hollanders ; but that nation hath nothing in common with them in all other refpects. Their cuflom of tying a rope very faft round their belly is flill more Angular, and would be fatal to a pcrfon nnaccuflomed from infancy to fuch an abfurd ligature. The rope was as thick as a man's finger, and cut fuch a deep notch acrofs the navel, that thc belly fccmcd in a manner double, one part being above and thc other below thc rope. Their bracelets * Dampler, Carteret, Bougainville, which which prefs the upper arm fo clofely, mull have been put on while the natives are very young, and appear to have been contrived upon the fame principle. The features of thefe people, though remarkably irregular and ugly, yet arc full of great fprightlincfs, and cxprefs a quick compre-henfion. Their lips and the lower part of their face arc entirely different from thofe of African Negroes ; but the upper part, efpccially the nofe, is of a very fimilar conformation, and thc fubflancc of the hair the fame. Thc deprcf-fion of their forehead may perhaps be artificial, as the heads of infants may be fqueezed into all kinds of forms. On thc continent of America there arc many inftanccs of nations who disfigure their heads to make them refcmblc thc fun, thc moon, or fome other object. But, upon thc whole, this figure of the forehead among thc Mallicollcfe is not carried to excefs, and docs not remarkably cncrcafc their uglinefs. Thc climate of Mallicollo, and thc adjacent iflands, is very warm, but perhaps not at all times fo temperate as at Taheitce, becaufc the extent of land is infinitely greater. However, during our fliort Ray we experienced no unufual degree of heat, thc thermometer being at 7 6° and 78°, which is very moderate in thc torrid zone, Drefs, in fuch a climate, is to he confidcrcd as an article of luxury, and. cannot properly be placed among the indifpenfiblc ncec/fii-rics. At Mallicollo they have not yet attained that device of opulence which could have fuggefted the invention of garments* garment?. In their tufted groves they neither feel the fcorching beams of a vertical fun, nor ever know the uncomfortable fenfation of cold. Briars and fhrubberics oblige them to take fome precaution, and the impulfes of nature towards the en ere a fe of thc fpecies, have fuggefted thc moil fimple means of preferving thc faculties and guarding againll the dangers of mutilation, (fee pag. 206.) We are too apt to look upon the principles which arc early inflillcd into our mind by education as innate, and have frequently rniftaken a moral fentimcnt for a phyfical inflincl. From the contemplation of unpolifhcd people, we find that mo-(klly and challity, which have long been fuppofed inherent in the hitman mind, arc local ideas, unknown in thc Rate of nature, and modified according to thc various degrees of civilization. It is not likely that thc Mallicollcfe have ever thought of banifhing unfcafonable ideas from the mind, by a contrivance which feems much more apt to provoke their defircs. Nay, it is uncertain whether thc fcanty drefs of their women owes its origin to a feme of fhame, or to an artful endeavour to pleafe. The ideas of beauty feem to be more obvious, though lingular and different among divers nations. Thc Malli-collefe ate not fatisfied with thc charms of their own pcr-fon, but think that a Hone hung in the nofe, a bracelet, a necklace of ihclls, and a mining black paint, fet them off to greater advantage. Their women, as far as we could oblcrvc, obferve, have no trinkets, but paint themfclves with the yellow colour of turmcrick, which has a peculiar aromatic fmell. The natives of the Friendly Iflcs powder their hair and the women of Eaflcr Ifland likewife paint their face and garments with it. It may therefore be employed, on account of its fuppofed virtues, rather than for ornament. Thc Mullicollcfe differ very remarkably from the lighter-coloured nation of the South Sea, by keeping their body entirely from punctures, which characterize all the various tribes of that race. Their food feems to be principally vegetable, fince they apply themfclves to agriculture. At times they may like-wife feafl on pork or fowls ; and though wc had no time to obferve any implements of fifhing, yet, as they have canoes, it may be fuppofed that they have not entirely neglected thc produce of thc ocean. Our fliort Ray did not give us an opportunity of feeing any of their tools; but from the workmanfhip of their boats, and the conflruction of their houfes, wc have no great reafon to admire their fkill in thc arts. Their ifland being wholly covered with forefls, it mud require a great deal of labour to cultivate a fpot of ground fuflicicnt for their fupport. The country itfelf appears very fertile; but the luxuriant growth of wild vegetables, cafdy conquers and deftroys the more tender flioots of thofe which arc planted. This being the cafe, it may fcrvc to account for the cuflom of confining their limbs to 1 ^ *12 to a fmall and ilender form, by ropes, bracelets, &x. Such monftrous contrivances to pinch and contract the body, feem to be dictated by neccflity, and in time may have been adopted as the marks of beauty. As their agriculture is fo toilfome, it is plain they have not time to manufacture a drefs, for which they have no immediate neccflity. Rcpofc and indolence arc the favourite principles of fmall uncivilized focieties, and neccRity alone forces them to become indudiious. We have obfervcd that the Mailicollcfe pais away a part of their time with mufic and dancing. Their inllrumcnrs arc doubtlcfs very fimple; we heard no other than drums ; and thefc, together with whittles or pipes, are moil eafily invented. Thc common tranfactions of domcllic life arc fo quiet and regular, that human nature feems to require fome cxccntric movement to animate it. At times to be extravagant in the motions and excrcifes of thc body, to produce a variety of founds from various fubllanccs, and to llrain the vocal organs bey (Hid their ufnal fcale, arc functions perhaps indilpenlibly neccflary in the revolution of human life, to act as fpurs or fumnli, and to fwecten thc labours of thc day. The drums of thc Mailicollcfe not only fervc as a paflime, but are likewue employed to found an alarm in cafes of danger. Wc have gieat reafon to believe, that they arc frequently involved in quarrels with the iflandcrs in the neighbourhood ; and it is not impiobable, that living difperfed difpcrfcd throughout the ifland in fmall families, they fre-quently difagree amongR themfelves. We never faw the Mailicollcfe without their arms, (except thofe who came into the captain's cabin) and it feems much more care and ingenuity has been bellowed on this part of their manufactures than upon any other. Their bows are Rrong, elaflic, and nicely polifhed ; their arrows well wrought; and thofe which we fuppofed to be poifoned, were very neatly ornamented. The cuflom of poifoning thc arrows is a proof of their under-Handing ; and thedefire of revenge againfl unjuft oppreflion, may have fuggeflcd it. Their fmall nature, and flender make, fcem indeed to require fome artifice to fupply the place of flrength j but it is at this moment doubtful, whether their arrows are really poifoned. The dog on which wc made thc experiment on the day of our arrival, recovered perfectly without any afliflancc, though he was afflicted with thc mofl dreadful illnefs from eating part of a poifoned fifh. Another experiment was tried in thc fe-quel upon a different dog; an incifion was made in his leg with a lancet, and thc gummy fubilancc, fuppofed to be thc poifon, was laid into it, and covered with a plaflcr. The dog was very lame a few days, from the fwclling and fcllcring of thc wound; but gradually recovered like the full. The iflandcrs of Santa Cruz *, who killed a number * E^rnont Ifland, of captain Carteret'—Sec llawkcfworlh, vol. I. p. 576. Vol. II. II h of of captain Carteret's men, feem, according to his defcription, to be very like the Mailicollcfe; and are likewife accufed of having poifoned arrows *, by the Spanifh navigator who firfl difcovered that iiland. Their bows and arrows, according to captain Carteret, are, however, of a remarkable length f, and thc latter pointed with flints. Quiros alfo mentions poifoned arrows among thc natives in thc Bay of St. Philip at St. Jago J ; but from both inllances it appears, that thc fuppofed poifon was not very efficacious. Thc wooden ruffle, which fecures thc arms of thc Mailicollcfe againR the recoil of the bow-firing, fcems to imply a frequent ufe of their bows. Bcfidcs thc niiililc weapons, fuch as arrows and fpcars, they have alfo fhort clubs, fecm-ingly for clofe engagement, and arc thus well prepared for all occafions. Their behaviour towards us was in general harmlcfs, but cautious. We received no invitations to flay with them ; for they did not like thc proximity of fuch powerful people, being probably accuflomed to acts of violence and ill ufage from thc rcfl of their neighbours. In fome of their countenances we thought wc could trace a mischievous, ill-natured difpofition ; but we might miflakc jealoufy for hatred. It is probable, that being continually on their guard, and engaged in wars, they have fome * See Meiulanu's voyage in Mr. Dalrymplc':; collection, vol. I. p. 78. }- The bows arc fix feet five inches, and the arrows four feet four inches, t Sec Mr. Dalrymplc's collection, vol. I. p. 135. chiefs chiefs and leaders in battle, who, like the commanders at New Zeeland, arc obeyed at the time of action. The only man whom wc fuppofed to be a chief, at Mallicollo, did not appear to be rcfpcctcd and it was only when he procured us fome frelh water, that we could attribute to him any authority at all. Remarks on the government of a people arc R-ldom to be made at the firfl interview, and therefore I only offer probabilities inflcad of facts. Their religion is entirely unknown to us, as well as the particular cufloms of domcftic life; nor can it be fuppofed, that we could gather any intelligence concerning their difeafes. We did not take notice of any fick pcrfon among them during our Ray; however, according to Mr. de Bougainville's account, the natives on an adjacent iiland arc fubjcct to thc leprofy in fuch a high degree, that he named it the Ifle of Lepers. The general character of the Mailicollcfe ought to be confidcrcd with a retrofpeet to their civilization. Difperfcd into fmall tribes, who have frequent caufes of difputc, it is not furprifing that they arc cautious and diflruflful. At the fame time, however, their behaviour towards us fhewed, that they had no propcnfny to quarrel without a caufe, but wifhed to give no offence; and were in general much dif-pleafcd with a few individuals among themfclves who attempted to infringe the peace. Green boughs, their figns of friend mi p, confirmed mil good difpofuion. The ceremony of pouring water on their heads, is flill more important, as it II h 2 fhews fhcws a great fimilarity between them and the people of New Guinea. Dampier obferved exactly the fame fign of amity at Pulo Sabuda, on the wcftcrn coaft of New Guinea *. The fliort converfations which wc had with the Mallicollefc, proved them to be a people of quick perception ; their fenfes are acute, and their intellects very open to improvement. From their amufemcnts it may be concluded, that they arechcarful and good-humoured •, and it I may venture another conjecture, they only want the impulfc of an ambitious individual to bring them into a higher flatc of civilization. After this detail, it is time to rcfume the thread of our voyage. Having cleared thc reefs of Port Sandwich, and flanding towards the Ifle of Ambrrym, wc gradually came in fight of thc fouth-cafl extremity of Mallicollo, where four or five fmall iilands form a kind of bay. Ambrrym, on which the volcano is fituatcd, appears to be upwards of twenty leagues in circuit. The centre of thc ifland lies in 1 6° 15' S. and 1 6 8° 2o' E. Pa-oom, the high peak to thc fouth of it, is of an inconfidcrablc fize, but we were dubious whether the land which wc faw before, or to thc weflward of it, and which was of moderate height, is connected with it or nor. Thc whole circuit of both parts, fuppofing them to form a finglc iiland, cannot exceed five leagues. Thc peak, according to our obfervations, lies in 1 6° 25 S. and • Sec DlSipto'l Voyages, vol. III. p. 186. 1 6B° 30' E. Apce, the iiland to the fouth of this peak, is large, hilly, and of the fame extent as Ambrrym, being nearly fevcn leagues long. Its middle is fituatcd in 1 6Q 42' S. and 1680 36' E. The numerous fmokes which arofe from all thefe iilands, gave us reafon to fuppofe, that the natives drefs their victuals above ground, by an open fire. At the Society and Friendly Ides, where the inhabitants are accuftomcd to Rew their food, by means of heated Rones under thc ground, wc rarely perceived either fmoke or fire. Thc frefh meal with which all our fhip's company regaled themfclves this day, was very near being fatal to fome of them. All the lieutenants and their meffmates, together with one of the mates, fcveral midfhipmcn, and thc carpenter, having eaten of the red fea breams (ffwus erytbrhms) of which two had been caught, were in thc fpace of a few hours, feized with violent fymptoms of being poifoned. It began with great heat in thc face, acute headache, fevcre vomiting, and diarrhaia ; thc arms, knecs^, and legs were fo benumbed, that they could fcarcely walk, or Hand ; the falival glands were fwcllcd, and a moR copious difcharge enfued ; they wctc alfo troubled with acute pains, and fpafms in thc bowels. A hog, which had eaten* of the garbage was lei zed with fimilar fymptoms, fwcllcd to a great fize, and died at night. Several dogs on board, having received a fliarc of thc entrails, and fome being fed upon vli upon Part °^ tne bcnkcl fifli, were affected in the fame manner ; they groaned moR pitifully, had violent Teachings, and could hardly drag their limbs along. A little favourite parroquet from the Friendly files, which familiarly hopped on its mailer's fhoulder, having likewife tailed a morfel of thc fifh, died the next day. In a word, the joy of having obtained a frcih meal was fudclenly converted into forrow ; and the only comfort in this misfortune was, that our furgcon hid dined with thc captain this day, and by that means cfcaped the fate of his meffmatcs. We Hill continued in fight of Mallicollo, Ambrrym, Apce, st.nd.iy j+. and t'a-oom, thc next morning; but flood towards thc fouthcrnmoft ifland then in fight, and difcovcred on the 11 il, which from the three hills upon it, was named Three-Hills Ifland (fee p. 204.) Wc approached within half a mile of it, and obfervcd it to be of thc fame nature with thofe already difcovercd. It was well wooded, and probably well inhabited; for fome of the natives appeared on the fliore, who refemblcd thofe of Mallicollo, and were armed like them with bows and arrows. A very cxtcnfive reef runs out from thc fouth point of the ifland, with fome rocks in it. Thc whole ifland feemed to be about five leagues in circuit; its great ell extent was from north-calf to fouth-well ; and according to allronomic il obfervationi, it is fituatcdin 17° 4/ S. latitude, and i6 8y 32' \L longitude) At noon wc put about, and flood for icvcral fmall iflandi A VOYAGE ROUND THE \V O R L D. 19 iflands and broken lands, which appeared off the s. e. end of the ifland of Apce, and now lay to thc N. E. of us. We likewife had fight of a peak to the S. E. and of fome land beyond that, which feemed very large, though at a great diflance. The number of iflands in this group was very furprifing ; and their direction to thc fouthward, gave us great hopes of continuing to make difcoveries, which might gradually lead us back once more to New Zeeland. Wc Rood on towards thefc north-caflcrly lands, and came among them in thc afternoon. They were of an in-confiderablc fize when compared to Mallicollo, Ambrrym, Apee, or even to Three-hills Ifland, and Pa-oom. Mod of them, however, were inhabited \ which circumftance wc col-leclcd particularly in thc evening, when wc faw fcveral fires, even on thofe which wc had by day light judged to have no inhabitants. After funfet we were becalmed for fcveral hours in the midfl of thefe iflcs; thc darknefs of the night, and fcveral broken rocks clofe to us on all fides, rendered our fituation extremely critical. The navigator, who means to explore new iflands, and give an accurate account of their pofition, is often in danger of lofing his fhip. h is impoflible for him to form a jufl concq>*"m of the eoall, without approaching clofe to it; but he muft ncteffarily he expofed to thc dangers of a fad* dctl florin, a funken rod;, or a fwift current, which are fuf- ficientv, fieicnt, in a few moments, to dcRroy all his hopes of glory, rrudence and caution are very neceffary in the conduct of every great enterprise ; but it feems, that in a voyage of difcovery, as in every undertaking of confequcncc, a certain degree of rafhnefs, and reliance on good fortune, become thc principal roads to fame, by being crowned with great and undeferved fuccefs. Thefe dangerous iflands received the name of Shepherd's Iflcs, from thc Rev. Dr. A. Shepherd, F. R. S. profeflbr of aflronomy in the univcrfity of Cambridge. Wc obtained a frefli breeze the fame night, and tacked ofl* and on till the next morning at day-break, when, being near thc fouthcr-mofl ifland, wc flood away to thc fouthward for the lands which we had difcovercd thc day before. Wc pa fled to thc callwaid of Three-hills Ifland, towards two other iflcs a few leagues to thc fouth of it, of a much fmallcr fize, but covered with verdure and groves in thc fame manner. We failed between one of them and a high columnar rock, which we named the Monument, from its remarkable ihape. Thc furf which had beaten upon it, had worn feveral deep furrows and channels into it. It looked blackifh, might be an hundred and fifty yards high, and was not wholly deftitute of verdure. A great number of boobies and terns were fcen flying about it, and fccmcd to have taken up their rcftdencc on it. Thc larger ifland, near which it was fituatcd, was called Two-hills Ifland, by captain captain Cook, bccaufc it had only two elevations of any remarkable fize. We now flood due fouth, towards thc large land which appeared in that quarter, and which wc had already noticed on the 24th. A canoe, with a triangular fail, was obfervcd at a great dillancc, coming from the S. W. towards Three-hills Ifland. Thc natives of thefe different iflands have therefore, in all likelihood, a friendly intercourfe with each other, in thc fame manner as the different inhabitants of thc Society and Friendly Iflands. In the afternoon wc had almoll made the fouthern ifland, which now appeared to confifl of two •, and were preparing to pafs to windward of hoth, being near the caflcrmofl of them, when thc breeze fuddenly failed us, and wc were carried to thc well by thc tide or current at a great rate. Our fituation this night was no lefs dangerous than on the preceding, with this difference only, that thc moon fhonc very bright, and wc could judge of the quick advances which wc made towards thc weftcrn ifland. Its northernmofl point was of a great height, rocky, black, and almofl perpendicular, having only a narrow beach, and a few fcattercd rocks at the bottom, Wc remained in the mofl dreadful fufpcnfc till near ten o'clock, as the current was fo Rrong, that holding out our boats would fcarcely have availed us any thing. Thc fhip's head, her flcrn, or her broad fide, were by turns directed towards thc fliore, on which we heard thc furf breaking Vol. II. 1 i with il7™'. with a much more dreadful found than it had ever had before, when unconnected with thc ideas of immediate danger ; at lafl we fortunately drifted clear of thc point at a fhort diilance. Tutflij -6. Thc next morning a gentle breeze fprung up, with which wc advanced towards thc land again. Wc now ran within the eaflcrmoft ifland, which, though it was not above eight or nine miles in circuit, was however inhabited, many of thc people running along fhorc to gaze at us, with bows, arrows, and darts in their hands. This ifle had a hill of moderate height in its centre, which appeared to be deditute of woods in mofl parts, thc cultivated lands and groves lying at its foot and on its firfl Hope. They confided of coco-palms, bananas, and various other trees ; amongil which wc difecrned a number of fmall huts, and on thc beach, fcveral canoes hauled afliorc. The land oppofitc to thc wed was about four or live leagues dillant from it, and now likewife appeared to confifl of two iflands. One of thefc to thc north, thc fame on which wc were near being lod, was fmall, not above twelve or fifteen miles in circumference, but of moderate height, like thc former, and with much the fame afpecT. To thc fouth of it, the main iiland appeared, which extended no lefs than ten leagues from N. W. to S. E. It was of a moderate height, like thc two others near it, but very gently Hoping in all parts, and prefented to thc eye many beautiful profpccls. Thick groves, and ex ten five cxtcnfive tracts of clear ground, were very agreeably varied, and thc latter had a rich ycllowifh colour, which exactly rcfcmblcd the golden corn-fields of Europe. We all agreed that this iiland was one of thc fined wc had hitherto fcen in thc new group, and fecmed to be well fituated for thc purpofc of an European fettlemcnt. We kept at a con-iiderablc didancc from it •, but it appeared to us to be more thinly inhabited than thofe which wc had left to the northward. This circumdancc would facilitate the cftabliuV meat of a colony; and if thc fpirit of philanthropy could ever animate thc planters, they would here have an opportunity to become the benefactors of the natives. From what wc obfervcd at Mallicollo, this race of men is very intelligent, and would readily receive the improvements of civilization. There appeared to be a bay towards thc N. W. end of thc iiland, which wc did not examine, on account of fcveral fmall illands and reefs lying before it to the caft-ward, It appeared to form a deep indenture on thc fliore, and to he more accciliblc from the wed ward. Captain Cook named this cxtcnfive idand Sandwich, that to thc north Hinchinbrook, and thc other to thc cad Mcfntagu. The middle of Sandwich Iiland lies in 170 40' S. hit. and 1^8° 30' K. long. We ran to the fouth-cadward all thc afternoon and Wedwrd, %7. night ; but at day-break, thc next morning, another ifland w:;<; fcen ahead, about fourteen leagues didanr, Sandwich 1 i 2 he in:; being Hill faintly in fight, nearly at the fame diftance. Our (hips now perfectly refembled an hofpital; the poifoned patients were flill in a deplorable fituation ; they continued to have gripes, and acute pains in all their bones: in the day time they were in. a manner giddy, and felt a great heavinefs in their heads ; at nighr, as foon as they were warm in bed, their pains redoubled, and robbed them entirely of flecp. The fecrction of faHva was execftive ; thc (kin peeled off from thc whole body, and pimples appeared on their hands. Thole who were lefs aRlictcd with pain, were much weaker in proportion, and crawled about thc decks, emaciated to mere ihadows. We had not one lieutenant able to do duty; and as one of the mates, and fcveral of thc midlhipmen were likewife ill, thc watches were commanded by the gunner and thc other mates. The dogs which had unfortunately fed upon the fame fifh, were in a Hill worfc condition, as wc could not give them any relief. They groaned and panted moft pitcoufty, drank great quantities of water, and appeared to be tortured with pain, thofe which had eaten of thc entrails were infinitely more alfcetcd than the reft. One of thefe poor creatures was doomed to be a martyr, being thc fame upon which wc •ried the Mailicollcfe arrows; however, he luckily got thc better of both thefc attacks, and was brought to England. It is remarkable, that captain Qtiiros complains of a fort of fifh, which he tails pargos, that poifoned great part of his crew, crew, in the bay of Sr. Philip and St. James. Nothing is jJL7*; more probable, than that it was of the fame fpecies, pargos being the Spanifh name of the fea-brcam (pagrm.) It is to be fufpccTcd, at thc fame time, that thefe fifhes are not always poifonous, but, like many fpecics in thc Weft andEaft Indies, may acquire that quality, by feeding on poifonous vegetables. Thc circumftancc, that the interlines were more poifonous than thc reft, fecms to confirm this fuppofuion ; thc grcatcft part of thc venom remaining in the prima: via, vvhilft only a fmall part was carried into thc mufclcs, by the chyle and blood. We had had very mild weather after leaving Mallicollo, but thc trade-wind had blown frefh from time to time. At prefent, however, being in fight of this new ifland, we were flopped by light airs and faint breezes. All the next day Timrfaay »8. wc lay becalmed, and rolled about very uncomfortably, being fet to the northward feveral leagues by a current. In thc evening wc difcovercd another ifland very far off to the fouth caftward, of which for thc prefent we took no notice. Thc day after wc obtained a breeze towards noon, which Friday *9. continued till the next day in thc evening, and brought us Siuurd«y3o. Within fix leagues of thc land. In thc afternoon one of thc dogs, lefs affected with the poifon of thc fifh than thc reft, being quite recovered, wc determined to try another experiment with the poifon of the Mailicollcfe arrow. An mcifion was made with a lancet in his thigh, and the re- finous jJly. Rnous fubflancc Ricking on the bony point of thc arrow, as well as thc green earthy fluff which lodged in thc compartments formed by thc coco-nut fibres, were fcraped oR, and laid into thc wound, covered with a platter, in ordt.v to make the experiment as fair as poRible. Thc dog, as I have already mentioned, recovered as quickly as if nothing had been laid into thc wound, sun^y ji. Thc next morning it was abfolutcly calm again, and many of our failors obfervcd, that thc ifland before us was certainly enchanted, becaufc our attempts to come near it had hitherto failed. At prefent we faw the other ifland to thc fouth, which had been difcovercd on thc 28th, more diflincTly than before. Thc nearer ifland fccmcd to be lefs fertile and agreeable than thofe which wc had hitherto difcovercd ; it fccmcd, however, to be Inhabited, which we concluded on feeing a great fmoke rile from it. Our litua-tion was thc more difagrccablc, as it was tantalizing to be in fight of land, and not to be able to approach it. Not-with Handing its fuppofed barrennefs, which precluded the hope of refrefhments, wc were all very dcfirous of being better acquainted with it. We never felt the tedioufnefs of being confined to thc fhip more feverely, nor ever wiflied more cargcrly to have intcrcourfc with human creatures. The company of ravages, and an opportunity of contemplating their manners, dwellings and plantations were at prefent, in our cllimation, defirable objects. In the afternoon noon two (harks were caught, which fwam about the fliip, j1™* attended by pilot and fucking-nfhes. One of thefe huge voracious animals fecmed to be a fpecies of epicure, having in his maw no lefs than four young turtles, of eighteen inches in diameter, two large cuttlc-fifhes, and the feathers and Ikeleton of a booby ; but though he was well fed, he did not difdain a piece of fait pork, with which we baited our hook, Thc failors had no fooner hauled them on deck, than every one drew his knife, and in a few moments divided them into fmall pieces, which they hallencd to drefs, and to devour. One of the marks making fome refinance in hauling Up, was (hot dead by our officers, who were equally concerned with thc rcit of their fliipmatcs to prevent his cfcapc. In this manner wc revenged thc caufe of the whole fubmarinc creation. Salt provifions arc more loathfomc in hot climates than every where clfe, which is partly owing to thc raging third they occafion. As wc had lived upon fait meat fince we left Namoka, it may be eafily imagined that no mark was ever more delicious to our taflc. A faint breeze fprung up at night, with which we proceeded towards the land once more. Wc difcerned a fmglc rock thc next morning lying oil its north end, at m^S*ju the diflance of a few leagues j and as wc approached, found thc iiland lefs barren than we had at firfl fuppofed. Towards ten o'cloCKj we were mod dreadfully alarmed by a fire in thc ihip. Confufion and horror appeared in all our faces, faces, at the bare mention of it; and it was fome time before proper meafures were taken to Rop its progrefs: for in thefe moments of danger, few arc able to collect their faculties, and to acT. with cool deliberation. Thc mind which unexpected and imminent danger cannot ruRlc for a time, is one of the fcarccft phxnomena in human nature; no wonder then, that it was not to be met with among thc fmall number of perfons to whom thc fhip was cntrullcd. To be on board of a fhip on fire, is perhaps one of thc mofl trying fituations that can be imagined ; a florm itfelf, on a dangerous coafl, is lefs dreadful, as it docs not fo entirely preclude all hopes of cfcaping with life. Providentially, thc fire of this day was very trifling, and extinguifhed in a few moments. Our fears fuggeiled that it was in the fail-room ; but we foon found, that a piece of Taheitee cloth, carelcfsly laid near thc lamp in the Reward's room, had taken fire, and railed a quantity of fmoke, which gave thc alarm. In proportion as we advanced towards the land, we difecrned fine woods upon it, intcrfperfed with glades and plantations on the veiy iummitsof thc hills. A number of coco-palms were likewif • obferved upon it, which had not however that noble appearance, by which we diRinguifhcd them in other countries. In thc afternoon wc came up with thc well fide of the ifland, and running clofe to thc fhorc, wc obferved fcveral fmall beaches, at the foot of Rccp hills, covered with plantations. tations. Thefc chiefly confided of bananas, and were con- Kmv*t, fined in neat cnclofures, near which we alfo noticed feveral houfes like flicds. Thirty or forty natives were fcen running along the fliore, armed with bows and arrows, as well as fpcars. They looked very fvvarthy at a diflance, and refcmbled tbc people of Mallicollo. Some women were obferved among them, who wore a kind of petticoat, apparently made of leaves and Rraw, which defcended to thc mid leg, or fometimes nearly to thc ancles; the men on the contrary were naked, like the Mailicollcfe. We entered a kind of open bay, where thc natives of both fcxes waded a good way into thc water, and called to us, to all appearance, with very friendly gefturcs. We Rood acrofs the bay, where it was not thought proper to anchor. It was growing dark when wc opened thc fouthcrnmoft point, and faw thc coaR flretching to the eaft. As the wind was falling again, wc did not attempt to (land in fliore any longer, but rather endeavoured to keep off during night, for fear of being let towards it by thc current. Every morning and evening, at fun-rife and fun-fct, our failors warned the decks from one end to the other, to prevent Use heat from drying them up too mucl), and making them leaky. This evening one of thc marines, who was drawing water on the fhip'a fide, for this purpofe, had the misfortune to fallovcr-board. He was not able to fwim ; however, by bringing the fhip to inilantly, and throwing a Vol, II. K k number » .177'- number of ropes over-board, one of which he feized, wc fuccecdcd in our endeavours to favc him. Thc poor fehow was immediately conducted between decks, by his comrades thc marines, being much weakened by the efforts he had made to favc himfelf by keeping faR hold of the rope, as well as the hidden fear of death. They fhiftcd his clot lies, and gave him a dram or two of brandy to revive thc animal fpirits, treating him with peculiar tcn-dernefs, the rcfult of an cfprit du corps, to which failors arc at prefent utter Rrangcrs. Tmteyt, Thc calms which had fo long perfecuted us, were not yet at an end. Our fliip lay like a log on the water all night, and the next day being gradually drifted into thc bay which wc had palled the day before, thc boats were hoirtcd out, and fent in quell of anchorage, They had no foundings till they came near thc fhorc, but there had found twenty fathom, at the diftance of three cables lengths (fix hundred yards.) The natives were fcen running to the beach again, but our people held no converfc with them ; for captain Cook feeing a breeze fpring up, made the fignal for them to return, and bodied them in again. The cannon which was fired on thc occafion, fccmcd to have no particular effect on thc natives, who were doubtlcfs utterly unacquainted with our arms, and with Europeans. wcdncf.i. j. We failed round thc N. W. point of the iiland, and in the morning advanced towards thc fmglc rock, which wc had noticed noticed before. A very remarkable mountain with a aJgvi*, double fummit, which had fome refcmblancc to a faddle, lay on thc ifland jufl abrcaft of this rock, and feemed to be of great height, even though the reft of the ifland had a eonlidcrablc elevation. The detached rock appeared to be covered with wood, and our fhip being greatly in want of fuel, two boats were hoiftcd out and fent towards it. Thc hopes of making fome botanical acquifitions, engaged us to embark in one of thefc boats. Thc diilancc which had been fuppofed trifling, was found to be near five miles ; but after rowing all this fpace, wc were wholly difappointcd. An enormous furf broke upon thc rock on all fides, which rendered thc landing abfolutely impracticable. In vain we rowed all round it, calling many a longing look at thc verdure and trees with which wc faw it covered. A large bat, and fome fmall birds were obfervcd flying through its bullies ; and a number of fifh fwam among thc broken rocks ; but the former did not come within muikct-fhot, and the other* refilled to take our hooks. Returning back to thc (hip we caught a watcr-fnakc (colnhcr laticaudatus, Linn J of the lime fort which had been obfervcd fo plentiful on one of the low iflcs oR Maria hay, in Tonga-Tabboo. (See vol. I, p. 478.) Alter returning on board, a gentle breeze fprung up, and wc flood into a kind of bay, dole under thc Saddle-peak, to the weftward of it. Wc caiuc in towards evening, K k 1 and August, an d found the bay very extenfrve, above eight miles wide, but not above two deep. The Saddle which forms a kind of pcninfula, lies on its caft fide, and flickers it from the* trade-wind, being very flecp towards the point, but gradually Hoping into Icfler hills towards the bottom of the* bay. Every part of thc fliore was well cultivated between the wild groves; and every plantation feemed to be en-clofed in very neat fences of rccd, exactly refcmbling thofo which wc had obferved at the Friendly Iftes. We dropped an anchor about a quarter of a mile from fliore, having a low point a-head of us, behind which there appeared to bo a harbour. The natives lined the fliore in great crouds ; fome of them fwam off, and came within hail, but no nearer; crying out and fcrcaming aloud to us. They appeared at a diftance to rcfcmble the Mailicollcfe, and were fwarthy ; one of them however, had reddifh hair, and was fairer than thc reft. It was remarkable that not a Angle canoe appeared, cither on thc water, or hauled afhore though we can hardly fuppofc fo fine an ifland to be deftitute of boats. As it was growing dark, all thc fwimmcrs returned to the fhorc, and made feveral fires in their plantations. Our provifion of frcfli water being very low, and that which we filled at Namoka being very bad, wc rejoiced to have found a place, where thc appearance of thc country, gave us thc greatcll hopes of meeting with a frefli fupply, not only of this necclfary article, but of all forts of of refreflimcnts. All thofe who had been poifoned by the A^™-red ftfh at Mallicollo, were not yet wholly recovered, but feh their pains returning every night, their teeth lofe, and their gums and palate excoriated. They likewife hoped to get rid of the remains of their tedious ficknefs, by making fome Ray on this ifland, and recruiting their Rrength with wholefome frcfli food, to which they had long been ft rangers. But all our expectations proved abortive and premature. Early in thc morning, captain Cook ordered two boats T^rfday to be properly armed and manned, and commanding, himfelf in one, and entrufting the other to thc care of the mafter, went in icarch of a convenient watering-place. He firft rowed towards thc fliore directly abreaft of thc fhip, where a number of natives not lefs than iixty, were aflembled on the beach. As foon as he was near thc fhore, fome of the natives came into the water, round the boats, where thc captain dillributcd to them nails, medals, Taheitee cloth, &c. with which they fccmcd vaflly delighted. He foon put oflT, and rowed along thc fliore, more ahead of thc (hip, round thc low point which I have already mentioned, thc natives running along in thc fame direction. Thc boats having got round the point, which might be about three quarters of a mile oil*, continued out of fight near an hour. In thc mean time, the natives were obfervcd running towards thc point from all parts, whilft a great number aIcI^v. number fat down oppofttc the fhip, gazing at it with thc greateft attention. At once wc heard the difchargc of fome mufkets, and an irregular fire kept up for fome time. Upon this alarm, another boat was inliantly equipped, and fent to thc affiuancc of the former, and a fwivel Riot directed over the point; A great gun was likewife brought upon thc forc-cafllc, and fired oR towards thc lulls. This Rruck a panic into thc inhabitants in our fight, who all haftcned to fcrccn themfclves in thc bufhes ; many were fcen running out of the plantations on thc hills, foufed by thc found, and hurrying away again, as foon as they beheld their countrymen put to flight. Wc alfo faw fcveral dragging a dead or wounded man up one of the hills, from the place where we heard the fire of our boats. In a liitle time the captain returned in one boat, while thc two others continued to found in thc bay. One of our fcamen was brought into the (hip with a wound in the cheek and another in thc wiill ; and we had the following account from captain Cook and thofe who accompanied him, concerning this unfortunate attack. The boats had no fooncr rowed round thc point than they found a godd landing-place, where the captain and another perfon flcppcd afhore. He found fcveral hundred natives armed with bows and arrows, clubs, and long fpcars. Their nature was of thc middle fr/.c, and much fupenor to that of the Mailicollcfe ; they were indeed nearly of thc fame fwarthy fwarthy hue, but better limbed and better featured. They Au7G7i'ST, went Hark naked, with a rope only about thc middle, and were for the rcR to the full as indecent in the eyes of Europeans as the Mallicollefe. Black paint and ruddle were likewife not fparcd on fome of their faces ; their hair was black, very curly or frizzled, but not woolly in all perfons alike, and in a great quantity. Some, however, had reddifli hair, and all iad Rrong black beards. Captain Cook began with ddtributing prefents to feveral of thc natives, and particularly to a man who appeared to have fome authority over thc reft. Having cxprcfled by figns that he wanted frelh water and other provifion?, the chief fent away fome men, and continued to convcrfe by ligns. In a fliort time the men returned, bringing a hollow bamboo filled with frcfli water, a few coco-nuts, and thc root of a yam. Our people undcrftood from their gef-turcs, that they had fetched thc water at a little diftance, but it fccmcd the natives were not inclined to let them walk thither to examine it. Their numbers encrcafing every moment, thc captain rc-embarked, and ordered his boat to be puthctl oif. One of thc natives immediately feized an oar, but another took it out of his hand and threw it back towards the boat. Some then took hold of thc gang-bond, which thc failors had neglected to fecure, and hauled thc boat back to thc fliore, whilft others came into thc water and and fcized the boat itfclf, taking out two other oars. Thc chief Rood near thc boat, and fccmcd to direct this whole manoeuvre. Captain Cook levelled his mufket at the natives, but here, as at Savage Ifland, (fee pag. i 6 6.) thc piece miffed fire fcveral times. The natives feeing him take aim, and readily conceiving that what he held in his hand was a weapon, drew their bows and poifed their fpears. A volley of arrows was directed at our people, and feveral fpears were thrown into the boat. One of them, without any carving and perfectly blunt, wounded a fcaman in the check. Captain Cook, feeing the lives of his people in Ranger, ordered them to fire, but it was fome time before any of them could difcharge their mufkets. Thc firfl discharge killed two natives, who fell clofe to the boat. The reft, Hill undifmayed, ran back a little at firfl, but returned brifkly to thc charge, throwing flones and mooting arrowl at our people. Thc other boat likewife fired upon them, but only two or three of their mufkets went off; however, they alfo killed and wounded fome other natives. It is remarkable, that though the^beft flints arc to be had in England, and though government allows thc highefl price for them to thc contractors, yet are our troops fupplicd with the very worft flints by thefc people, who ufc every means to amafs a fortune at thc cxpencc of thc public. Some attention ought to be paid to an article, upon which thc lives of of many thoufand fubjeets, nay often thc fuccefs of engagements, in great meafure depends *. An arrow hit thc matter on the naked bread, but being entirely fpent, it did not even fetch blood. It confided of a reed, armed with a long point of black wood, which was jagged or bearded with many indentures on one fide. Some of the natives who were wounded crawled upon all fours into the bufhes. When our fwivels and cannon were fired from thc (hip, thc whole croud difperfed ; fome, however, hid themfelves behind a fandy elevation, which fcrved as a brcaft-work, from whence they continued to annoy our people, who for fome time amufed themfclves to fire at them as often as their beads appeared. At lad, captain Cook feeing a third boat come to his ailillance returned on board, and ordered the other two to found thc bay. From his account of this Unhappy difputc, Mr. Hodges has invented a drawing, which is meant as a rcprefentation of his interview with thc natives. 1 or my own part, I cannot entirely pcrfuade myfelf that thefe people had any hollilc intentions in detaining our boat. The U veiling of a mulkct at them, or rather at their chief, provoked them to attack our crew. On our part this * It has been obfervcd by foreigner!, who have been fpcclators of military manoeuvres, abroad as well as in Hyde-Park, that upon a company's fiffrlg fevo I»| rounds, fix private men at Icaft retire behind thc lines to draw or to fire their mufkcis, which did not go off l> fore. This fingular circumftance is not owin^ to any dcfeS in thc locks, but to the badnefs of thc flints. All foreign troops are ,n that refpeit fupcrior to thc Britifh. Vol. 11. LI manoeuvre «774. manoeuvre was equally ncceflary ; but it is much to be la-mcnted that the voyages of Europeans cannot be performed without being fatal to the nations whom they vifit. After breakfafl we weighed the anchor, and prepared to (land farther into the bay, our boats having found convenient anchorage nearer to thc watering-place. All the weftern coall of the bay was covered with thoufands of palms, which had a beautiful eRecT, and appeared to be different from thc coco-palm. Wc foon came in fight of thc place where the engagement had happened. A few natives who Rood here and there on thc fliore, ran into thc woods on feeing thc fhip. We faw the two oars which they had taken out of the boat Ruck in thc ground and leaning on the bufhes; but it was not thought proper to fend a boat in qucft of them, though thc coall was clear. After we had entertained hopes of coming to an anchor again for fome time, thc captain gave orders to put about, and flood to thc caftward round the faddle-pcak, which was now called Traitor's Head. We racked all the morning, in order to weather that point, but could not accomplish it till three o'clock in the afternoon, when wc opened a bay immediately to thc cat!ward of it. This bay extended very far inland, and fccmcd to contain fcveral fnug creeks or harbours. The lands on both fides were covered with thc thickcR woods, which had a mofl fertile and cue banting appearance. To the fouth, the land Hoped very gently, oft- icring fering a fine cxpofure of vaft extent almoR wholly culti- Ay™ vated, and in all likelihood rich in vegetable productions* Wc were juR abrcafl of this bay, and perhaps in doubt whether we fliould not go in, when the iiland appeared in fight again to the fouth, which wc had already difcovercd on the 28 th of July. Captain Cook now refolved to re-linquifli the nearer ifland, and to proceed to the more dif-tant one, in order to leave as little unexplored as pofliblc. The breeze was very frefh, and wc left the iiland with great rapidity. It is fituatcd in 1 8° 48' fouth latitude, and 1 690 20' eafl longitude*, and is nearly of a fquare figure, which meafurcs at lcaft 30 leagues in circuit. Wc flood fouthcrly towards thc new ifland, with fludding fails fet, which had been in difufe with us ever fince wc arrived among this group of iilcs. Several fires appeared upon thc ifland at night, one of which blazed up from time to time like thc thc flame of a volcano. At day-break we faw a low iiland to the north-call ward Frickyi of us, having puiicd clofe to it during the night, and a high one nearly call of us, at thc diflance of eight or nine leagues. The low iiland was covered with coco-palms, but wc could not determine whether it confided of a circular reef or not. The large iiland, towards which wc ilill * Wc have given it the name of Irhomanoa, for, as we afterward* learnt »4 in ailj.icrnti/lanJ, this is the name by which it 1*1 known among the natives. Sec the iu\t chapter. L 1 2 d> .reeled directed our courfe, extended from N. W. to S. E. and confided of a high range of mountains. Towards the fouth-eaftern extremity, at thc end of a fecondary range of hills, we difcovercd a volcano, of which we had really fcen thc fire at night. It was a low hill, much lower than any in the fame range, and of a conical fhape, with a crater in thc middle. Its colour was rcddilh brown, confiding of a heap of burnt flones, perfectly barren, but it offered a very linking fight to our eyes. A column of heavy fmoke rofe up from time to time, like a great tree, whofe crown gradually fprcad as it afcended. Every time that a new column of fmoke was thus thrown up, we heard a very deep rumbling found like thunder, and the columns followed each other at very fliort intervals. Thc colour of thc fmoke was not always the fame; it was white and ycllowifh in general, but fometimes of a dirty rcddilh grey, which wc fufpcclcd to be partly owing to thc lire in thc crater which illuminated thc fmoke and afhes. Thc whole iiland, except thc volcano, is well wooded, and contains abundance of fine coco-palms; its verdure, even at this fcafon, which was thc winter of thefe regions, was very rich and beautiful. After eight o'clock wc hoillcd out our boats, and the mailer went to found a harbour, winch appeared in view to the eafl of thc volcano. '1 hey ran in very fall, and were followed by two canoes of thc natives, which put ofT Iron different parts of the coa(l; another canoe was fcen at a diflance a diftance failing along fliore. In a little time they made fignals for the (hip to follow. We flood on into the harbour, which has a narrow entrance, and as we kept a man conftantly founding in the chains, wc were greatly alarmed when our foundings fuddenly decreafed from fix fathom to three and a hair; however, an inflant afterwards wc had four, five, and more fathoms. It appeared that we had providentially palled over a rock before thc entrance, on which wc had run thc grcatcft riik of Ariking. Thc harbour was a fmall mug bafon, where we let go our anchor in four fathom, furrounded by a number of natives in their canoes. This was thc only anchorage where wc made any flay in all the cxtcnfive duller of iflands which wc had now difcovercd. Wc provided our (hip with wood and water, but did not obtain any rcfrefhmcnts worth mentioning. Thc principal advantage which wc derived from putting in here, confiilcd in a few remarks on a race of people, in a great mcafure ditliiicT from all the tribes which were known to us before. But while wc were entertained with various new and Unking objects, it was very difagrecablc to l>c tanta-li/.ed with the fight of wholefome vegetable and animal food, with which thc natives did not choofc to fupply u:. C II A L\ »77*- August. C H A P. II. Account of our flay at Tanna, and departure from the New Hebrides. dnt, T TAVING brought thc {hip to an anchor, wc were well A plcafcd to fee thc natives coming off in their canoes from different parts of thc bay, and paddling round about us at a little diflance. Their behaviour at firfl was very ir-rcfolutc; though all were armed with fpears, clubs, bows and arrows. One or two came clofe to us, and fent a yam, or a coco-nut, upon the deck, for which wc made them prefents of our goods. In a few moments the number of canoes encreafed to fcvcntccn \ fome of them contained twenty-two men; others ten, feven, five, and thc fmallcft only two; fo that thc number of people abotifiw exceeded two hundred. They pronounced fcveral words to us from time to time, and feemed to propofe <|ucilions ; but if wc uttered a word of the Taheitee, or Mallicollo dialect, they repeated it, without fceming to have thc lcaft idea of ir. liy degrees they were familiarized with our appearance, and ventured clofe along fide. We had hung a net over-board aftero, containing fait meat for dinner, which the fea water was to frefhen, as wc did every day ; one of thc natives, tivcs, an old man, fcizcd this net, and was about to detach a'^t. it j but being called to, he inflantly defined. However, another fhook his dart at us upon this occafion, and dill another adjuded an arrow to his bow, taking aim by turns at different perfons on thc quarter-deck. Captain Cook imagined that thc difchargc of a cannon might be of great fcrvicc, to prevent any unhappy differences with the natives, by apprizing them of our power. He made 6gn accordingly to the canoes to paddle afide, in order to keep clear of the fliot. It was remarkable that they were not offended by this fign, which had thc air of authority, but readily dropped adern. Thc gun was fired towards thc fhorc, and thc two hundred people leaped out of their canoes into thc fea in thc fame indant. Only a tingle young man, very well made, and of a very open friendly countenance, remained danding in his canoe, without thc lead marks of furprizc or fear, but looking with a mixture of mirth and contempt at his affrighted countrymen. They prefently recovered their dation in their canoes, and feeing no ill confcqucnces had enfued after our bravado, convcrfed yery loud with each other, and fecmed to laugh at their o;vn fears. They kept off however at a little dillancc, and did not flicw any hoflilc inclinations. Ciptain Cook did not like the fllip'f birth, but rcfolvcd to carry her deeper into the bay. To that purpofc, a boat w*s fent off with an anchor, and our people proceeded in their their operation without being molefled. The buoy, however, which belonged to our firfl anchor, appeared fo tempting, that an old Indian, who was quite bald, put off in his canoe, and endeavoured to carry it away, at firfl by towing it, but afterwards by detaching it from its rope. As foon as we perceived that he was ferioufly at work about ir, captain Cook called to him to dcliil, but he was not able fo much as to divert his attention. Thc captain fired a muikct loaded with fmall fliot at him ; and fome of the fliot having flruek him, he immediately threw the buoy out of his canoe. A few moments after, however, feeling himfelf very little hurt, he returned once more to complete his former undo -taking. A muiket, uiih a ball, was now fired rather fhort of him into thc fea; upon this he left thc buoy, and came long fide to prefent us with a coco-nut. There was fomething bold and generous in his behaviour, which I think plainly indicated, that he offered us his friendfhip, after making trial of our fpiiit. Our boat having laid the anchor in thc ground with another buoy, came on board, and we began to watp in by it. The buoy tempted anothcr native, notwithstanding the correction which his countryman had received He wa > afraid of taking it up; but piddled feveral rirnca toward* it, and as often turned back a gain. At lafl thc temptation prevailed, and he began to haul it into his canoe. A large muiketoon was fired at bun, and thc ball fell clofe to him, linking the water fcveral ij m&t times, and at lad dropping on the beach. A number of people (food near thc place, and immediately ran off; but thc man in the canoe returned again to the buoy. Another mufketoon, a fwivel, and laft of all a cannon were fired, which terrified him and all the natives both on the water and on lhorc, without doing them any hurt. Wc brought thc ihip deeper into thc bay, after this little diilurbance ; but in warping her in, flic flruek aground fcveral times, being drawn out of the deep channel. The water was very fmooth, and thc bottom covered with mud, fo that (he could receive no material damage, and the fault was calily redreffed. Wc then went to dinner very quietly, and aftciwards proceeded to thc beach in three boats, well manned, cfpecially by all our marines. The opportunity fecmed very favourable, as thc number of natives in fight was very fmall, and not likely to give us any trouble. A few of them, who were fea ted in the gcafs along the beach, ran off* upon our landing, but returned as loon as we beckoned to them. On our left, or to thc well ward, we faw a body of about a hundred and fifty, well armed, who advanced towards us with the green blanches of coco-palm, which they prclcnud us in iign of peace. We ditlribuicd medal;, Taheitce cloth, and iron ware, to conciliate their good will; and aiuiw.irds exchanged thefc articles h: a few coco-nuts which they brought us, alter we had pointed to the trees, and made our wants intelligible by different Vol, II. M m gcllurcs. hvGvtt, ge (lures. One of our firfl rcqucfls was, that they fhould fit down i which was imperfectly complied with: another, that they mould not tranfgrefs a line which wc drew on the land ; and to this they readily aflented. Wc prefently found a pond of very palatable frefh water, and made figns to the natives, that wc came to provide ourfelves from thence, and that wc alfo dcfired leave to cut fome trees. They immediately pointed out feveral wild trees which wc might cut, only excepting thc coco-palms, of which innumerable quantities covered thc fhorc. Wc filled two fmall barrels with water, and cut down a few trees, to fhew in what manner we intended to proceed ; and thc natives appeared to be fatisficd. Our marines were however drawn up, and thc lead motion they made fo terrified thc inhabitants, that they ran off to a conlidcrablc diflance, only a few old men remaining near us. We defned them to lay down their arms j and even in this demand, which was in itfclfun-rcafonablc, thc grcatcfl part acquiefecd. Their flaturc was of thc middle fize, and their perfons infinitely flronger, and better proportioned, than thofe of thc Mailicollcfe. Their colour was a dark or chefnut brown, with a very fwarthy mixture. Like thc natives of Mallicollo, they went flark naked, having only a firing round the belly, which did not cut their body in fuch a fhocking manner, as wc had obfervcd at that iiland. Wc faw fome women at a diftance, who did not fecm to be fo ugly as thofe of Mallicollo, and and wore a kind of petticoat, which defcended below the aSISmt. knee. Two girls had each a long fpear in their hand, but did not venture nearer than thc reft. Wc collected a number of words from thefc people, among which, far the grcatcft part were entirely new to us; but fometimes they expreffed thc fame idea by two words, one of which was new, and thc other corresponded with thc language of the friendly lllands ; from whence wc had reafon to conclude, that they have fome neighbours of thc other race, who fpeak that language. They alfo told us, that they call their own iiland Tanna, a word which fignifics " tartb" in thc Malay language. This lafl wc looked upon as a great acquiiition ; for the indigenous name of a country is always permanent. Wc made but a fliort flay among thefc people, and returned on board as foon as we had fdled our calks. We now thought thc peace concluded, and every difficulty conquered ; but wc found matters in a very different fituation thc next morning. Our intcrcourfc with them had hitherto been peaceable, becaufc they did not feel themfclves a match for us; but it feems they were very far from purpofmg to give us free admittance into their country. They looked upon us as invaders, and appeared jealous of their property, and rcfolvcd to defend it. We faw the flame of the volcano in thc evening, blazing up, with an cxplofion once in five minutes or thereabouts. The tranfaClions of thc day prevented my fpeakingof this M m ?. wonderful \-7Jv,t wonderful phxnomenon, though it was in continual agitation. Some of thc cxplofions rcfembled very violent claps of thunder, and a rumbling noifc continued for half a minute together. Thc whole air was filled with fmoky particles and with allies, which occafioncd much pain when they fell into thc eye. Thc decks, rigging, and all parts of the fhip were covered with black fhcrl aflics in the fpace of a few hours, and thc fame fand, mixed with fmall cinders and pumice Hones, covered thc fea-fliore. The diflance of this volcano from our haibour was five or fix miles; but fcveral hills lay between, fo that wc only faw its fummir, which threw up thc fmoke from a crater, confiding of fcveral ragged points, tent!*? * Early in thc morning, thc fhip was moored ftill more conveniently and nearer to the fliore. The natives appeared at fun-rife coming out of their groves and confulting together on thc beach. In order to make thc fcqucl more intelligible, it will be ncceflary to give a flight fketch of the appearance of thc country which cnclofcd the harbour. Thc point which forms its caftcrn ihorc is very low and flat, but prefently rifes into a level hill, about fifteen or twenty yards high, which is wholly laid out in plantations* This encompaffes thc caflern and fouthern (horc of thc bay, being near three miles long, and extending fcveral miles inland to the lea on the other lide. Where this flat hill ends, a fine plain covered with planttaions runs to thc fouth ward, bounded bounded by fcveral ranges of pleafant hilts, of which the aSR**. nearer! are of eafy afecnt. To the wcR this plain, as well as the whole bay itfclf, is cnclofcd by a Reep hill, three or four hundred yards high, which is nearly perpendicular in moil places. A narrow beach of large broken fhingles and Rones runs along the weftern fliore, but a perpendicular rock feparatcs it from the fouthern beach. This laft is very broad, and confills of a firm black land ; it bounds the plain, and is thc fame where wc cut wood and filled our calks with water. A beach of coral rock and fhell land continues from thence along the foot of the flat hill quite to the caflern point of the harbour. Thc flat hill docs not lie clofe to this beach, but a fpace of level land, thirty or forty yards wide, covered with groves of palms, extends to its foot. Thc whole fouth-caft corner of thc bay is filled With a flat reef of coral, which is overflowed at low water. A few canoes put off one by one from the fliore, and each brought a coco-nut or two and a cluftcr of bananas for fale, which they readily exchanged for Taheitee cloth. As foon as thc natives in them had difpofed of their cargo, they returned to thc fhore and brought off another. One of them offered captain Cook his club, and, having agreed to take a piece of cloth for it, it was let down into his canoe. However, he had no fooncr received thi3 cloth, than he took no farther trouble to fulfil his agreement. 1 he captain (poke to him fcveral times, by fuch figns as the maa man fccmcd to under (land, but all in vain; a mufket, charged with fmall fliot was fired into his face, upon which he, and two men who were with him, betook themfclves to paddling with thc grcatefl agility. Their canoe was pur-fucd from deck by feveral fliot from thc (hip's mufketoons; one of them fell fo near them, and rebounded fo often from thc water, that they all jumped into the fea and fwam afliorc. A great concourfc of natives was prefently obfervcd near thc fpot where they landed, to whom they probably rehired their flory. A few minutes after, a fingle man came off to us in a canoe, with fome fugar-cancs, coco-nuts, and yams. He was an old man, of a low ilature, but had a very friendly countenance, which announced his good dif-pofitioftt lie had been active thc preceding afternoon to prcferve the peace with our people, and his arrival was therefore thc more acceptable to us. Captain Cook made llim a prefent of a complete drefs of the bell Bed Taheitee cl th, with which thc old man was highly pleafed. He had in hi ; canoe two large clubs, none of thefc people ever going without arms j but captain Cook, being in one of our boats along fide, took them out and threw them into the lea, making figns to thc man, that all his countrymen on ihorc fhould lay down their arms. Thc old fellow liked thia prOpOfc] exceedingly, and fecming entirely contented With 'he lofs of his clubs, returned to the fhore, where wc abfcrvcd him parading tor fome time in his new drefs. Vail Vafl numbers of people were now fcen aflcmbling on the Ai7cu beach from all quarters of thc ifland, but far the greatcfl part came down from the Recp hill on the weft fide of the bay. Thc buflics and groves on the plain were filled with men, of whom none went without arms. Towards nine o'clock, having fixed a fpring on the cable, we prepared to land in thc launch and two other boats, with all our marines and a party of fcamcn well armed. As foon as thc natives faw our boats coming, they haftcned out of the bufhes on thc beach, and formed chiefly in two large bodies, one on each fide of thc watering-place. That on the weft fide was by far the mofl confidcrablc, confifling of no lefs than feven hundred men, in a compact body, who feemed prepared for action. On thc call fide wc gucflcd there might be about two hundred men, who, though equally well armed, had however a more peaceable look. In thc middle, between them, flood thc little old man who had been with us juft before, and two other natives. Thefe three were unarmed, and had laid a heap of bananas on the beach, Having approached within twenty yards of thc beach, captain Cook called to thc natives, and made li^ns for them to lay down their arms, and to recede from the beach. hut of this demand they took no manner or no* tice, perhaps thinking it abfurd and unjuft that a few ft rangers (bould prtfcrrbe laws to them on their own ground. A« it was not thought prudent to land between thc the two bodies of natives, and to expofe ourfelves to an attack in which many of thefe innocent people, and perhaps fome of us, might have been killed, captain Cook ordered a mufkct-ball to be lircd over their heads, in order, if pof-fible to frighten them away. Indeed, the whole body was immediately in motion at the found ; but, foon recovering from their furpiize, thc great eft number flood their ground. One of them, (landing clofe to the water's edge, was fo bold as to turn his poftcriors towards us, and ilap them with hi! hand, which is thc ufual challenge with all the nations of thc South Sea. Captain Cook ordered another mufket to be (hot into the air, and, at this fignal, the (hip played her whole artillery, confiding of five four-poundei s, two fwivcls, and four mulkctoons. The balls whittled over our heads, and making fome havock among thc coco-palms, had the defired effeft, and entirely cleared the beach in a few moments. Only our old peace maker, with his two friends, remained unconcerned near his pile of fruit, which lie prcfented to thc captain as foon as he had landed, at thc fame lime dcfiring him not to flioot any longer. An intcielUng pit lure, representing this lauding at Tanna, compofed by Mi. Hodg with great ingenuity, has been engraved for l aptain Cook's account of this voyage. It is one of thofe pieces in which thc lkdl of that able attiil is difplaycd in its full force. Our Our firft care was to draw up thc marines in two lines, «twj to guard thc waterers. Stakes were driven into the ground on both fides, and ropes faftencd to them, leaving a fpace of fifty or fixty yards clear, for our people to pafs and repafs unmolcfted. By degrees they ventured out of the bufhes, and came upon the beach, where we made figns to them not to tranfgrefs our lines, which none of them attempted. Thc captain once more repeated his figns, that they fliould lay down their arms ; thofe on thc wcR did not attend to them, but the other party, who were in fome meafure connected with our old friend, complied for thc greater! parr. Thc old man told us his name, which was Paw yangom, and was permitted to Ray within the lines if he chofc. We now endeavoured to advance into the woods in queft of plants, but wc had not got twenty yards, before wc faw numbers of natives behind every bulb, who kept up a communication between thc two parties on the beach. It was there/ore impollible 10 make any gtcat acquisitions at firft, and wc contented ourfelves with two or three new fpecics. With thefe wc returned on thc beach, and by endeavouring to convcrfc with the party on our left (to the cafl of us) filled our vocabularies with many words of their language. We often offered to purchafe their arms hut they con-flantly refufed to part with them. However, one of them difpofed of a cylindrical piece of alabailcr, two inches long, Vot.. II. N n which »77+. which he wore as a nofe-jewel. Before he delivered it. he warned it in the fea, whether from a principle of clcan-linefs, or not, wc cannot determine. During thc whole time of our Ray on fhore this morning, the natives did not attempt to moleft or attack us ; and thofe on our left fccmcd very well difpofed, and.gavc us hopes, that wc might cfta-blifli a friendly intcrcourfe with them in a fliort time. As we now faw a great part of thc inhabitants of this ifland aflemblcd, wc had the bcR opportunity of forming an adequate idea of their general habit of body, their drefs and arms. They arc of thc middlc-fizcd Raturc, but many among them may be reckoned tall. Their limbs arc well made, and rather flendcr ; fome arc likewife very Rout and flrong ; but thofe beautiful outlines, which arc fo frequent among thc people of the Society and friendly Iflands, and of the Marqucfas, arc rarely to be met with at Tanna. I did not obferve one finglc corpulent man among them \ all are active, and full of fpirit. Their features arc large, thc nofc broad, but the eyes full, and in general agreeable. Moft of them have an open, manly, and good-natured air, though fome may likewife he found, ft8 in other n i tions, whofe countenance betrays malevolence. Thc colour of their hair is black ; however, wc obfervcd fome which had brown or ycllowilh tips. It grew very thick and hufhy, and in generally frizzled ; but in a few individuals it ilill prefcrved a degree of woollincfs. Thc beard is like- W i ft wife thick, black, and frizzled. The colour of their whole Avivix. body is a dark chefnut brown, which is frequently mixed with a blackifh hue, fo that it appears at firft fight, as if it were fullied with foot ; and their fkin is extremely foft to the touch, as is obfervcd to be thc cafe with Negroes. They almoft go perfectly naked; but, true to thc general charac-tcriftic of mankind, wear feveral forts of ornaments. They drefs their hair after thc following method: they take a quantity, not exceeding a pigeon's quill in thicknefs, and wrap it in a thin tin cad or ribbon, made of thc ftalk of a bindweed, fo that only a fmall tuft remains at thc end. All the hair on thc head is difpofed exactly in the fame manner, fo that they have feveral hundred (]iicucs) three or four inches long, Handing an end, and diverging every way, Like quills upon thc fretful porcupine. SnaKespeare. If thefc parcels arc a little longer, from five to eight or nine inches, they hang down on both fides of the head, and in that cafe, the wearer ftrongly rcfcmblcs a river-god, with his lank hair all foaked and dripping. Some however, and particularly thofe who have woolly liair, let it grow without torturing it into any particular form, or, at fartheft, tic it in a bunch on thc crown of thc head with a leaf. Moft of them wear a thin ilick or reed, about nine inches long, in their hair, with which they occafionally difturb thc vermin that abound in their heads, A reed N n 2 fct Av"oit« fet with cock's or owls feathers, is likewife fometimes (luck in the hair as an ornament. A few of them alfo wear a cap made of a green plantane leaf, or of matted work, on their heads. Some twill their beard into a kind of rope, bat the greater number leave it in its natural form. The cartilage between the noRrils is commonly perforated, and in thc aperture, they wear a cylindrical flone, or a bit of rccd, half an inch thick. The cars arc pierced with a very large hole, in which they wear a number of rings of tortoifc-fheli, or of a piece of white fliell an inch in diameter, and three quarter's of an inch broad. Sometimes one ring is fattened within the other, fo as to form a kind of chain. Round their neck they fometimes pal's a ilring, to which they fallen a fliell, or a fmall cylindrical piece of green nephritic Rone, rcfcmbling that which is common at New Zeeland. On the left upper arm, they commonly have a bracelet made of a piece of coco-nut-ftiell, cither curioufly carved, or plain and polilhcd, between which they frequently Hick fome plant, as thc cuodia hrtenfts *, thc croton variegatuniy lycopodium phhgmaria, vittx trijiYui, or a fpecics of epidendrum. Some of them wear a belt, or faih, of a kind of coarfc cloth, made of the inner bark of a tree, which is commonly of a dark cinnamon colour. Round their middle they tic a firing, and below that, they employ the leaves • Sec Furft. N'w. (Jcner. Pl.nit.ir. Of of a plant like ginger f, for the fame purpofe, and in the A'H*;T fame manner as the natives of Mallicollo. Boys, as foon as they attain the age of fix years, are already provided with thefe leaves, which feems to confirm, what I have obfervcd in regard to the Mailicollcfe, viz. that they do not employ this covering from motives of decency. Indeed it had fo much thc contrary appearance, that in the pcrfon of every native of Tanna or Mallicollo, wc thought wc beheld a living reprcfentation of that terrible divinity, who protected thc orchards and gardens of thc ancients. To complete the lid of their ornaments, I mufl add their paints and incifions. Thc paints arc refcrved for thc face *, they arc red ochre, white lime, and a colour (liming like black lead ; all thefe they mix with coco nut oil, and lay on thc face in oblique bars, two or three inches broad. Thc white colour is feldom employed, but the red and black is more frequent, and fometimes each covers one half of thc face. Thc incifions arc chiefly made on thc upper arm, and thc belly, and fupply the place of punctures, which arc common in the lighter-coloured race of men, who inhabit thc friendly and Society Iflands, New Zeeland, Eaflcr Iiland, and the Marqucfas. They cut the flcfli with a bamboo, or (harp fliell, and apply a particular plant, which forms an elevated fear on the furface of thc fkin, after it is healed. Thefc fears arc formed to rcprcfent flowers, and other fan* . t Of thc order of JiitumiHa. cicdi cicd figures, which arc deemed a great beauty by thc natives. A fmglc man only was obferved, who had a figure punctured on his bread, which appeared to have been performed in the fame manner as among thc nations above enumerated. The weapons which thc men of Tanna conitantly carry are bows and arrows, clubs, darts and flings. Their young men arc commonly dingers and archers, but thofe of a more advanced age make ufe of clubs or darts. Thc bows are made of the bcfl club-wood fcafltarmej very flrong and claflic. They polifh them very highly, and perhaps rub them with oil from time to time, in order to keep them in repair. Their arrows are of reed, near four feet long. Thc i ime black wood, which the Mailicollcfe employ for thc point, is likewife made ufe of at Tanna ; but thc whole point, which is frequently above a foot long, is jagged or bearded on two or three fides. They have likewife arrows with three points, but thefe arc chiefly intended to kill birds and fifh. Their flings arc made of coco-nut fibres, and worn round the arm or waiil\ they have a broad part for thc reception of thc Rone, of which thc people carry with them feveral in a leaf. The darts or fpcars arc thc third fort of miflilc weapons at Tanna. They arc commonly made of a thin, knotty, and illThapcd Hick, not exceeding half an inch in diameter, but nine or ten feet long. At the thickcfl end they are fhaped into a triangular point, i\\ or eight inches long, and on each corner there is a row of eight eight or ten beards or hooks. Thefe darts they throw A^7v\-Tt with great accuracy, at a ihort diftance, by thc help of a piece of plaited cord, four or five inches long, which has a knob at one end, and an eye at thc other. They hold the dart between thc thumb and fore-finger, having previoufly placed the latter in the eye of the rope, the remaining part of which is flung round the dart, above the hand, and forms a kind of noofc round it, fcrving to guide and confine the dart in its proper direction, when it is once projected. I have fcen one of thefe darts thrown, at the diftance of ten or twelve yards, into a flake four inches in diameter, with fuch violence, that thc jagged point waa forced quite through it. The fame thing may be faid of 'their arrows ; at eight or ten yards dillancc they fhoot them very accurately, and witli great force ; but as they arc cautious of breaking their bows, they feldom draw them to the full ftrctch, and therefore at twenty-five or thirty yards their arrows have little effect, and are not to be dreaded. The clubs arc refcrved for clofe engagement, and every grown man carries one of them, bcfides fome of the miflilc. weapons. They axe of four or five different fhapes. Thc moft valuable are made of the ca\un the ftcep iides of thc hill we gathered fcveral new plants, and Hid down thc precipice feveral time... Different forts of minerals appeared in this place. The principal llrata of the iUep hill coiifid of | fpcciei ot clay, very foft, and CfUml ling in pieces when expofed to the air and moillurc. We ah j found a fpecics of black land-Hone, a iiibllancc re- fcmbling fumbling rotten-Hone (lapis fuillm), and fome pieces of AJg£r. chalk, which were either pure, or tinged with a rcddifli colour, perhaps arifmg from particles of iron. Wc walked fcveral hundred yards along the beach, towards the weR point of thc harbour, and at lull feeing a path which led up thc lull, prepared to advance into the country, wdicn wc were met by a number of natives, who were all armed. We then rejoined our party, who loaded ballad, and traded with the natives for a lew fu gar-cartes and coco-nuts. They all lac down on thc rocks near us j and one of them, to whom the Deft paid fome deference, exchanged names with my father. He was called Oomb-ycgan. This cuflom of making fricndlhip, by a reciprocal exchange of names, is common in all thc fouthern iflands which we had hitherto vi-.ite 1, and in reality has fomcthing in it very engaging and affectionate. After having been in this manner adopted among the natives, we continued upon the bell terms imaginable, and collected gieat fupplemcnts to the vocabulary. They made us a prefent of fome leaves of a fig, which had been wrapped in banana-leaves, ami flcwcd. They were extremely well tailed, and might be eaten as a fubduutc Ear. our ipinach. Wc likewile obtained two large planuues of the courier fort j which proved, that even here the fpirit of hofpitality is natural to the inhabitants, 'the women ami cluhhcn brought down loeie dainties from the hills, and prcfented them to us ; but ihej iJouit tncy were f° cxtrcmely timorous, that if we only fixed our eyes upon them, they indantly ran away, to the great entertainment of thc men. However, their coming fo near us, was fuflicicnt proof that wc had made great progrefs towards gaining their confidence. Wc obfervcd fome of them which had a finite on their countenance, but in general they looked gloomy and melancholy. They had car-rings and necklaces like the men, and the married women wore caps of matted work. The greater part of them had nofc-jcwcls of white llonc. Whenever wc prcfented a bead, a nail, or ribbon to any of thc people, they refufed to touch it, but dcfircd us to lay it down, and then took it up in a leaf. Whether this was owing to fome fupcrditious notions, or to a fancied idea of cleanlincfb, or of civility, mull remain a matter of doubt. Towards noon our party re cm-batked, and we went on board with them, the git a efl part of the natives having already retired to their dwellings on the hill. Thc afternoon was fpent in fiihing again, but without our former fuccefs, for wc only caught about two dozen of fifli, after many repeated hauls of the net. The natives on the beach were very numerous; and their pretence made it improper for us to ramble far into the woods. Wc therefore confined ourfelves to the Ikirts, and collected I few words of their language. ' '.y 9 We returned to thc fame place the next morning, where our people had loaded ballad thc day before. Wc climbed about about thc rocks for fcveral hours in the heat of thc day, Al: without much fuccefs; and were only tantalized by thc appearance of a rich forcft, into which wc could not venture to advance with any degree of prudence. Before wc returned on board again, wc difcovercd a hot fpring coming out of the rock clofe to thc water's edge. Wc had no thermometer at hand ; but thc degree of heat was fuch, that wc could not bear to hold a finger in the water above a fmglc fecond. As Uun\ as wc had returned to thc fhip at noon, captain Cook likewife came from thc watering party, and brought one of thc natives with him in his boat. Wc foon difcovercd him to be thc fame young man, who had Ihcwcd fo much cool-nefs anil bravery on thc firft day of our arrival, by remaining in his canoe, when near two hundred of his countrymen leaped into the fea at thc difcharge of a cannon, (fee p. 263.) He told us his name was Fannokko, and enquired for our names, which he endeavoured to remember. He, as well as all his countrymen, had not thc fame facility of pronunciation as thc Mailicollcfe; we were therefore obliged to tell him our names, modified according to the fofter organs of thc Tahcitians. His features were rather lundfomc ; his eyes large, and very lively ; and the whole countenance cxpidkd good-humour, fprightlincfs, and acutcnefs. To mention only a fmglc inllanec of his ingenuity ; it happened that my father and captain Cook, on «ompaiing their vocabularies, difcovercd that each had collected aJJ^It lccTcd a different word to fignify the iky; they appealed to him, to know which of the two exprcflions was right ; he prefently held out one hand, and applied it to one of the words, then moving thc other hand under it, he pronounced thc fccond word; intimating that the upper was properly thc iky, and thc lower the clouds which moved under it. He likewife gave us thc names of feveral illands in the neighbourhood. That from which wc came to Tanna, and on which captain Cook had an unhappy difference with thc natives, he called Irromanga. The low Ifland which wc hail palled in Handing in to this harbour he named Immcr; a high iiland, which we had difcovercd to thc eaft of Tanna, on thc fame day, hronan ; and another to thc fouth, which we had not yet fcen, Anattom. He fat down to dinner with us, and tailed of our fait pork, but did not eat more than a fmglc morfel of it. Some yams, fried in lard, or fimply boiled, he relilhcd better ; but he ate very fparingly upon thc whole, and finilhed his rep ail with a itmill portion of pye, made of dried and worm-eaten apples, which fecmed to be very agreeable to his palate. He alio tailed a little wine alter dinner; hut though he drank it without fhewing any diihkc, he did not choofc to take a fccond gltfs, His manners at tabic were extremely becoming ;md decent; and thc only practice which did not appear quite cleanly in our eye*, was his making ufe of a Hick, which he woke in his bur, inllead of a fork, with which he occaiionally feratched his his head. As his hair was drcffed in the highcR fafhion of thc country, a la porc-Jpkt greafcd witlt oil and paint, our Romachs were fo much thc more eafily offended ; though 1 annokko had not the IcaR notion that fuch an action was rcprehcnfible. After dinner wc walked about the decks with him, and fhewed him different parts of thc fhip. He foon fixed his eyes on one of our Taheitian dogs, which he called bobga, hog ; a furc (ign that dogs arc unknown in his country. He fccmcd fo defirous of pollclling this creature, that captain Cook made him a prefent of one of each fcx. hcfidcs this, he received a batcher, a large piece of Taheitce cloth, fome fpikc-nails, medals, and other trinkets of lefs value, with which wc carried him back to thc fhore, happy beyond cxprcflinn. As foon as lie landed he left thc beach with his riches, and walked into thc country to his home. Wc took a walk to thc catlward along the fliore of thc bay, and looked into thc groves which fkirted thc flat hill, of which I have fpoken above. Wc found thefe groves to confifl of coco-palms, and feveral fpecics of fhady fig-trees, with eatable fruits, nearly of thc fi/.c of common figs. Wc alfo obfervcd fcveral fhcds, under which fome of their canoes were fecured from thc fun and weather; but there were no habitations, except towards thc caftcrn point. Wc were Hill above three hundred yards from thence, when a great number of natives came and begged us not to go Vol. II. Pp farther; farther ; fome likewife ran to captain Cook, and pointing to us, defired him to recall us. We returned to our party, and endeavoured to penetrate into thc country, immediately at thc back of our watcrcrs. Wc found a path, which led through a variety of bullies, upon the dat hills. In our way to it, wc croflcd fome glades, or meadows, cnclofcd in woods on all fides, and covered with a very rich herbage of thc moft vivid green. On our afcending the hill, wc were met by three natives, who endeavoured to pcrfuade us to return ; but feeing us rcfolved to proceed, they accompanied us. We palled through a little airy grove, into fcveral cxtcnfive plantations of bananas, yama, eddocs, aud fig-trees, which were in fome places cnclofcd i;i fences of done two feet high. Wc heard thc furf beating oa the fliore to thc fouth, and feeing thc three natives very uiir cafy at our progrefs, we told them wc only wiflied to behold the fea. They led us to a little eminence, from whence we got fight of it, and of an idand eight or ten leagues didant, which was thc fame that Fannokko had named Anattom. It appeared to be of confidcrablc height ; and though not of thc fame extent as Tanna, was probably about ten or twelve leagues in circuit. Having fcen this ifland, thc natives invited us to go on farther inland with them, with the fame cagcrnefs which they hail before cxprelfcd to keep us back j but as wc took notice, that one of them was fent before the red, wc did not care to trull their invitations at that time, time, which might however, for aught I know, have been avow* very friendly and honeft. Wc retreated therefore gradually to the beach, having picked up a new plant, and feen fo much of the country, as only made us more defirous of examining it. Our people had once more tried their luck in fifliing, but were not by far fo fortunate as thc firft time. The natives attended to their method of hauling thc net, and from their geftures, wc learnt that they are unacquainted with this contrivance, and only dart or (hoot with arrows at the fifh, when they rife near thc furface of the water. They never failed to beg for fome ftfli as often as our people hauled thc fcinc, which is fome confirmation that they rarely catch or ftrike them. As often as they took notice of any thing new to them, they broke out into the interjection, heebou / They likewife made ufe of thc fame word, when they were fuddenly furprifed,' when they admired, or dillikcd, or coveted any thing. Thc different tone and geflurc with which it was cither drawled out, or quickly repeated feveral times in a breath, Rrongly marked thc various affections of the mind. They mapped their fingers at thc fame time, especially when they expreffed their admiration. Wc went on fliore at thc watering-place thc next morn- w«dnefd, rt. ing, immediately after brcakfall. A party of our people had been there ever fince day-break, and told us they had fcen many of thc natives palling by them, from thc caftcrn P p z P^rt part of thc bay, loaded with bundles, which they carried into thc country. Our men were of opinion that they had actually removed, in order to remain undiilurbed, and out of the reach of our fire-arms ; but as we never found many habitations on this part of thc fliore, our arrival might at firfl have drawn together a number of people from other parts of the iiland, who occafionally lodged in the woods thereabouts, but now returned to their own dwellings, feeing that no farther mifchicf was to be apprehended from thc flrangcrs, who had arrived among them. We endeavoured to conquer their diflidence more and more, by counting on our Angers, that wc only intended to remain a certain number of days on thc ifland ; and wc found that they were always much plcafed and pacified by this intelligence. It muft be obfervcd, however, that all thofe who carried loads this morning were women, whilfl thc men walked on unconcernedly without any incumbrance, except their arms. It fliould appear from this circumllancc, that thc people of Tanna arc not yet arrived at that advanced ilatc, which dillinguiihcs thc natives of thc Society and Friendly Iflands. All favagc nations hive the general character of ufing the other fcx with great unkindnefs and indignity, obliging them to perform all forts of laborious, and humiliating operations. the removal of thc natives was foon difccrnible, as thofe who came on the beach to us, were in very fmall n urn her3. numbers. We therefore took the opportunity of walking ax7ott out upon thc plain, behind the watering-place. Wc met with fcveral ponds of flagnant water, in which the natives had planted great quantities of eddoes (arum.) The coco-palms formed fpacious groves, full of different fhrubberies, where a great number of birds of different forts, chiefly fly-catchers, creepers, and parroquets refided. Wc faw like-wife many lofty trees, covered with nuts, which arc common at Taheitee, (inocarpns Nov. Gen j Thefe trees were commonly thc rcfort of pigeons of different kinds, and chiefly of thc fort which are to be met with at thc Friendly Iflands, where thc natives catch and tame them. It fliould fecm that thc inhabitants of Tanna likewife pracTifc fowling ; for one of our lieutenants fliot a pigeon this day, which had two very long white feathers faflencd to its tail by firings ; he had believed it to be a new and fingular fpecics of bird, till he difcovercd thc artifice. We met with fome natives on this cxcurfion, who told us, that one of our people had killed two pigeons ; but this intelligence was only valuable to us, on account of thc language in which it was conveyed, which was exactly the fame with that fpoken at thc Friendly Iflands. It appeared to us that he made ufe of this language, in order to be more intelligible to us, having frequently obfervcd that wc pronounced fcveral words of it. We cxpreiled fome furprizc however, at his knowledge, and he then repeated thc fame meaning in in the language of Tanna, which was totally diftincT from thc other. He added at the fame time, that the former language was fpoken at the ifland of Irronan, which lies feven or eight leagues to the eaft of Tanna*. Perhaps a colony of the fame race, who inhabit the Friendly Iflands, and all the caftcrly iflands of the South Pacific Ocean, may have fettled on that ifland ; or perhaps the natives of Irronan keep up a communication with thc Friendly Iflands, by means of fome Iflcs unknown to us, lying between them. Wc made another excurfion in thc afternoon, and faw but few inhabitants in our way,4 though wc advanced near three miles on thc plain. We always told them, that we wanted to kill birds, and they immediately went on without giving us any uncaflnefs. Wc flrot indeed a number of fmall birds, but the grafs was fo thick that wc lofl nlmofl all of them. Wc paflcd by fome plantations of bananas and fugar-cancs, but faw no houfes, the grcateft part of thc ground being uncultivated, and Covered with fhady forcfls, or low fhrubbcrics. At thc end of thc plain wc obfervcd a long, and fpacious valley, from whence we faw a great number of fmokes rifmg, and heard thc promifcuous voices of many men, women, and children. We flood in a path, on both fides of which were thick fhrubbcrics; and the vale itfclf was fo full of groves, * He likewife acquainted us, that Irronan was fometimes called I'ootoona. that ihat we neither faw the people, whofe voices we heard, nor A«o«rr, any of their dwellings. It being late in the evening, we proceeded no farther, and without difcovcring ourfelves, retreated to the beach. The volcano had been quiet ever fince the 7 th, and though it continued to emit fmoke from time to time, yet the rumbling had entirely ceafcd. The fire within the crater, Rill however illuminated the clouds of fmoke. Wc had heavy, and almoft continual rains all night. In the morning we landed on the beach, and faw but few inhabitants j we therefore repaired to its wedernmod corner, where wc had obfervcd a path which led to the deep hill on the weft fide of the bay. Wc afcended by very eafy Reps, through the moft delightful groves of fpontaneous trees and fhrubs, which every where fpread a fragrant and rcfrcfliing fmcll. Several kinds of flowers cmbcHifhcd the tufted foliage, and thc moft beautiful bindweeds climbed like ivy to the fummits of thc tailed trees, and adorned them with garlands of blue and. purple bloflbms. A number of birds twittered round us, and gave life to a fcene, which would without them have been inanimate. Indeed, wc did not fee a fmglc native on thc firft dope of this hill, nor did wc meet with any plantations. Having walked up about half a mile by diftcrcnt windings, we came to a little glade, covered with delicate herbage, and furrounded with thc mod beautiful wild trees of the wood. Here Here the fun fhone excefiively hot upon us, the place being entirely flieltered from winds. A fulphureous fmell however, foon betrayed a kind of Ream rifing out of the ground, which added to the heat of the place. There was a little mound of whitifh earth, which looked as if it were calcareous, on thc left fide of the path, almoft hid by the branches of feveral forts of wild fig-trees, that throve luxuriantly in this neighbourhood. From this mound we faw a vapour, or Ream rifing continually; the earth was fo hot, that we could hardly bear to fland upon it, and we found it impregnated with native fulphur. When wc flirrcd in thc white earth, we found thc fleam coming up fatter ; and on tailing it, we obferved a Ayptic or aflringcnt quality, like that of alum in it. From this place we walked on a great way higher, and came to another open place, which lay on thc flope, and was rather barren. Here likewife wc found two other fpots, which emitted Ream, but not in fuch quantities as the firft, nor fo ilrongly fcented, Thc earth which covered thefe folfatarras, was of the fame nature as that on the firft, and had a grcenifli tinge from thc fulphur with which it was penetrated. But in the neighbourhood of it, wc found red ochre of thc fame fort with that which the natives employ to paint their faces. The volcano was more loud than ever wc had known it this day, and at every cxplofion we obfervcd the Ream rifing much more copioufly than before, in thick white clouds, clouds, from the folfatarras. This circumftance feems to indicate, that they have a fubterraneous connection with, or arc, by fome means unknown to us, affected by the convulfions of this burning mountain. Wc remarked that this was the fecond time the explofions of the volcano had recommenced after fhowers of rain; and were therefore led to fufpect, that the rain in fome meafure excites thefe explofions, by promoting or encrcaiing the fermentation of various mineral fubftances in thc mountain. Having contemplated thefc fingular fpiracula, we mounted Rill higher, and difcovered a great number of plantations, in different parts of the foreft. The path continued to be very good and eafy of afcent, furrounded on all fides by very fliady trees ; but as foon as it approached the plantations, we loft it by fome means or other, and it fecmed as if thc natives had purpofely contrived it fo, in order to prevent being furprifed by their enemies. At laft wtc reached the fummit of this hill, and went down the other fide of it, in a narrow lane between hedges of reeds, in fight of the fea, which waflics the north-caft coaft of thc ifland. In a little time we got fight of the volcano between the trees, and perceived that the walk which led to it, acrofs feveral hills and vallics, could not be lefs than two leagues long from our Ration. Wc faw its eruption however, and took notice of immenfe maffes of rock which it hurled upwards in the fmoke, and fome of which were at leaft as large as the hull Vol. II. Q^q of of our long-boat. We were thinking to go on towards it, as we had hitherto met with no bad accident, nor fecn fo much as a fingle native on our walk : however, our voices muft have alarmed fome of them in the plantations along which we paRed, for we prefently heard one or two blowing on great conchs, which, among many favage nations, and particularly in the South Seas, are ufed to alarm the country. At this found we inRantly refolved to retreat, and got fafely down to the folfatarra which we had lad difc covered, unfccn by any of the natives. Here we met a few of them coming up the hill from the fea fide, who feemed greatly furprifed to fee us fo far advanced into their receflesa We told them that we went about to flioot birds, and de-fired them to bring us fomcthing to drink. They went on without feeming to take much notice of our requeit; but after we had botanized on thc fpot above a quarter of an hour, and were jufl: preparing to defcend, we faw a whole family of men, women, and children, coming down with abundance of fugar-canes and two or three coco-nuts. We fat down, and after refreshing ourfelves with the juices which thefe vegetables contained, made our hofpitable friends fcveral prefents, with which they parted from us well contented. We went down with our acquifitions, and came on thc beach when the boats were going on board. Thc natives had now begun to trade with yams, fugar canes, coco-nuts, and bananas; and though they only fupplicd us fparingly, fparingly, yet we were highly pleafed even with this fmall aI'J^t. beginning, hoping that in time we might obtain more con-liderable fupplies. They fet no value on our iron-ware, but preferred Taheitee cloth, fmall pieces of green nephritic (tone from New Zeeland, mother of pearl ihells, and, above all, pieces of tortoife-fhell. Eor thefe lafl they fold their arms ; at firft, parting only with darts and arrows, but afterwards difpofmg alfo of their bows and dabs. In the afternoon we landed, and walked along the fca-fhorc towards the eaft point, where thc natives had prevented our going on two days before- Wc met fome of them, who talked with us a few moments; but whilft they flood near us, we took notice of a fingle man fitting behind a tree, with his bow bent and the arrow pointed towards us. As foon as he perceived himfelf difcovercd, and a mufket pointed at him, he threw his arms into the bufh and crept out to us, and I believe he really had no bad intent, though fuch kinds of jefls arc not much to be truftcd. We reached thc eaftern point of the harbour, and there gathered fome beautiful red flowers, which had tempted us ever fincc we came to an anchor ; they belonged to a fpecics of yam-boos or eugenia. As we were going to crofs thc point and to proceed along the fhorc beyond it, fifteen or twenty natives crouded about us, and begged us with the grcatcft earncftnefs to return. Wc were not much inclined to comply with their demand, but they repeated their intrcatie9, Q^q 2 and and at laR made figns that we fliould be killed and eaten* The fame geftures, though much lefs intelligible, had been made to us two days before, but we had paid very little attention to them, unwilling, upon fuch flight teflimony, to fuppofc that they had any idea of anthropophagy. However, at prefent we could no longer be miftaken -t for, having pretended to mifundertland them, and making them believe that we thought they offered us fome provifions, we began to move forward, and cxprefTed that wc fliould be glad to eat fomething. They were very eager to undeceive us, and fhowed, by figns, how they killed a man, cut his limbs afunder, and ieparatcd the flefh from the bones. Laftly, they bit their own arms, to exprefs more clearly that they eat human flefh. We turned from the point, but walked' towards a hut which wc obferved about fifty yards from it, where the ground began to rife. Here fcveral of them, feeing us advance, took up arms out of the hut, perhaps to force us to return* It was not our wifh to offend thefe people in their own country, and therefore we checked a fpirit of curiofity, which might have proved fatal to fome of them, if they had obliged U3 to defend our lives. Thc motives for purfuing our difcoverics on this point were not, however, of a trifling nature. Every morning, at day-break, wc heard a flow folemn fong or dirge fung on this point, which laftcd more than a quarter of an hour. It feemed to be a religious ac% and gave us great reafon reafon to fufpecT that fome place of worihip was concealed A^707J; in thefe groves, and the conflant endeavours of the natives to keep us from this place, greatly confirmed us in this fuppofition. Having walked back a little way, we refolved to get upon the flat hill in a place where the afcent was eafy, and where, being very near the point, we hoped to be able to make fome obfervations. When we had reached the top, which was about thirty-five or forty feet perpendicular in height, wc found ourfelves in a fpacious plantation, chiefly confifting of innumerable banana-trees. We found it interfperfed with coco-palms and other tall and tufted trees, which entirely impeded the profpecT on all fides, and feparated from other plantations by various fences of reeds, . very neatly made, much refembling thofe of Tonga-Tabboo and Namoka. Here the natives began to repeat their threats, and, if poflible, made it more plain to us than before, that we fhould be killed and eaten if we went on. Wc told them we only wifhed to fhoot fome birds, but they did not feem to pay much attention to this excufe, and I know not whether we fhould have made any difcoverics this afternoon, if the little friendly old man, Paw-yangom, had not luckily met us. We cxprefled reciprocal joy on finding each other, and the old man immediately conducted us along the edge of the hill towards its weflern extremity. Here we faw great numbers of fig-trees, which the natives cultivate for the fake of the fruit and the leaves. They are of a Voyage RouMb the world. of two or three different kinds, and one fort, in particular, bears figs of the common fize, which are woolly, like peaches, on the outfide, and have a beautiful crimfon pulp like pomegranates. They are fwcetifh and juicy, but, upon the whole, rather infipid. Thc yamboos, (vugenia,) a cooling watery fruit, of thc fize of pears, but with an agreeable tartnefs, likewife grew here in great abundance on large trees; and we alfo obferved fome fine cabbage-palms, farrvd vki-acea.) We advanced into a little thicket of various flowering flirubs, and in a few minutes found ourfelves on a fine open area not lefs than an hundred yards fquare, on the fkirts of which we faw three habitations of the natives. Many lofty trees, richly furnifhed with foliage, made this rccefs impenetrable to the eye from the outfide. Among the reft wc noticed an immenfe wild fig-tree in one corner of the green, of which thc ftem was three yards in diameter, and the branches fprcad at lead forty yards on all fides in thc moft picturefquc manner. At the foot of this beautiful tree, which was ftill in full vigour, wc faw a fmall family featcd round a fire, on which they roafted fome yams and bananas. They ran away into their huts at fight of us, hut Paw-yangom telling them they had nothing to fear, they came out again; the women and girls, however, remained at a great diftance, and only peeped at ub behind thc bufhes. We fat down with them, and they offered us fome of their provifions, with thc fame hofpitality which wc we had experienced in other iflands. Their huts were, properly fpeaking, large fheds, of which the roof reaches down to the very ground, and forms a ridge at top. They are open at both ends, having only a fmall enclofure or railing of reeds and flicks about eighteen inches high. The height of thc ridge in the largcR was nine or ten feet, and the width on thc floor between the roofs nearly thc fame. The length, however, was confidcrable, and exceeded five and thirty feet. The conurucTion of thefe huts is very fimple; two row of Rakes arc placed in the ground, bending towards each other, and thofe which are oppofite are tied together. Over thefe they lay feveral mats, made of coco-nut leaves, which form a thatch fufficient to defend them from the inclemencies of the air. We faw no manner of utenfils or furniture in thefe houfes. The floor was covered with dry grafs, and a few mats-of palm-lcaves lay fpread in different parts. Wc likewife obferved that all the infide was blackened by fmoke, and found in every hut the vefliges of feveral fire-places. In the middle of the area, wc faw three tall poles flanding clofe together, which were made of the ilcms of coco-palms, and connected together by means of tranfverfe laths at the top. A vafl number of fmall flicks were fattened acrofs them from the top to within nine or ten fect of thc bottom, and thefe were hung with old coconuts. As they make ufe of the oil in the kernel, and employ thc fliell for bracelets, they probably keep them in this place place to feafon them. All thc fkirts of the flat hill, where we faw no habitation, are, as I have already obferved, well Rocked with immenfe numbers of wild coco-palms, and the ground underneath them is covered with nuts, of which as it fliould feem they take the trouble to collect only an in-confiderable quantity. Little bits of their cloth, which they wear as fafhes or belts, were fufpended on thc bufhes which furrounded the green j and the prefents which Paw-yangom had received, among which was a laced hat, were placed in the fame manner like fo many trophies. This was a convincing proof to me of the general honcfly of thc people towards each other. At Taheitee they arc already obliged to fufpend their goods to thc roofs of their houfes, in order to keep them out of thc reach of thieves; but here they are fafe on every bufli. It mud be obfervcd likewife, in confirmation of this remark, that during our flay among the people of Tanna, we had not a fmgle inflance of their Healing the lead triile from any one of our people. The natives having obfervcd, that though wc looked into their huts, we did not attempt to do any hurt, to difplace or take any thing, foon became more reconciled to our appearance, and the boys, from fix to fourteen years, who had hitherto kept aloof, ventured to come near, and fullered us to fcize their hands. We dillributcd medals with filk ribbons to them, and gave them handkerchiefs of Taheitee cloth, which entirely conciliated their aifection, and baniflied refer ve fcrve and the remains of apprehenfion. Diftruft and fuf-picion, are not yet known to the boy y he is frank and honed, and thinks every body is like himfelf. We learnt all their names, and prcferved them in memory, and it can hardly be thought how much this little artifice affiflcd us in gaining their good graces j they were overjoyed that we remembered them, and came running as often as we called. Having fpent fome time with them, we got up to return to the beach, and old Paw-yangom, who did not Care to go down, it being very near fun-fet, gave directions to two or three young men to (hew us the ncarcfl path. We took leave of him very heartily, and made fome addition to the prefents he had already received. In our way we told our conductors, pointing to the coco-palms near the beach, that wc were dry, and fhould be glad to tafle fome of them. Upon this they immediately led us into another path, where a number of palms Rood in the midft of the plantation. From thence they took fome nuts, and prcfented them to us, which we interpreted as a mark of great good-nature ; but when we tailed the liquor, we found that they had done us a particular kindnefs or civility, it being infinitely more delicious than that of thc nuts near the beach. We now looked at thc trees, and finding them in very fine order, concluded that thofe below were wild ; but thefc, planted and brought to perfection by the care of the inhabitants, it is well known that by means of cultivation Vol. II. R r thc the coco-palm, as well as all other trees, is made fitter for domeftic purpofes j and the Javanefe have many varieties, of which the nuts are much improved *. The fort which is ufual in the Society Iflands is one of the bell, and like-wife owes its excellence to culture j nor do I remember to have feen any variety there refembling the wild palms of Tanna, which thrive even on the mountains. Having been well refrefhed through the benevolence of our friendly Indians, we proceeded towards the beach, and in a few minutes rejoined our watering-party there, by a path which led us directly down. Here we rewarded our conductors to the belt of our power, and embarking in a boat returned to the fhip for the enfuing night. The lingular nature of the folfatarra on the weflern hill fo much attracted our attention, that we haftcned thither again the next morning, and Mr. Hodges was of thc party. The volcano continued to thunder all the day, and threw up vaR quantities of minute black aflies, which, when more accurately examined, proved to be long ncedlc-like and femitranfparent fhcrls. The whole country was ilrewcd with thefe particles, and they proved remarkably dangerous to our eyes in botanizing, as every leaf on the ifland was entirely covered with them. It may however be remarked, that thc volcano and its productions fecm to contribute greatly to that prodigious luxuriance of vegetation which • Sec Ilawkefworth, vol. III. p. 736. is is fo remarkable on this iiland. Many plants here attain twice the height which they have in other countries j their leaves are broader, their flowers larger, and more richly fcented. The fame obfervation has been made in various volcanic countries. The foil of Vefuvius and Etna is reckoned the moR fertile in Italy and Sicily ; and fome of the bell flavoured wines which Italy produces are raifed upon it. The volcanic ground on the Habichtfwald, in Hefle, though fltuated in a high, cold, and barren country, is fur-prilingly fertile, and covered with verdure. All kinds of plants, indigenous and foreign, thrive with luxuriance, and make this beautiful fpot, on which the gardens of the landgrave arc fltuated, thc admiration of all beholders. Nay, to confine ourfelves to our own voyage, the Society lilands, thc Marqucfas, and fome of the Friendly Iflands, where we found volcanic remains, as well as Ambrrym and Tanna, where wc actually faw burning mountains, have a rich and fertile foil, in which nature difplays the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom. Eaflcr Ifland itfclf, wholly overturned by fome volcanic eruption, produces different vegetables and ufeful roots, without any other foil than flags, cinders, and pumice-floncs ; though the burning heat of thc fun, from which there is no flicker, fliould fecm fuf-ficient to fhrivel and deftroy every plant. We foon reached thc firfl fmoking place, but feeing the natives fbmewhat higher, wc did not flop, and walked up r r 2 to to them. They were the fame who had behaved fo well to us the day before, and they now fent fome of their people up into thc country, as foon as they faw us. Mr. Hodges fketched fome views, whilfl: we paffed our time in examining feveral plants, and fufpended a thermometer, with Fahrenheit's feale, on a tree in thc ihade. This thermometer Rood at 7 8° on board the fhip, at half an hour pad eight, which was the time of our departure. Having been carried up clofe to thc body, it had rifen to 87° ; but after hanging five minutes, at a diflance of twenty yards from the folfatarra, it remained at 80°. We made a hole in the earth, deep enough to contain thc thermometer in its whole length, and fufpending it from a Rick into this hole, it rofe in half a minute to 1700. Wc left it there for thc fpace of four minutes, and at the end of that time it Rill marked thc fame degree. The inflant it was taken out, it fell to 1 6o°, and in a few minutes gradually to 8c'J again. The Ream which iflucs from this place is consequently of thc hottefl. Thc natives, who obfervcd that we Rirred in thc folfatarra, dcfircd us to leave it, telling us it would take fire, and rcfcmblc thc volcano, which they called qffobr. They fccmcd to be extremely apprehenfivc of fome mifchance, and were very uncafy as often as we made the lcafl attempt to dillurb thc fulphurcous earth. Wc walked higher, and found fcveral other fpots fmoking, and of the fame nature with that before defcribed. By this- time time the meflengers, whom the people had fent off, came Aic\4sT. back with fugar-canes and coco-nuts, and treated us as they had done the preceding morning. After this refrefh-ment wc advanced higher up the hill, towards another in fight, from whence we hoped to have a nearer view of the volcano ; but upon our approaching fome plantations, the natives came out, and pointed out a path, which they pretended led directly to the volcano or afloor, We followed them for feveral miles, through various windings, being continually furrounded by woods, which hid the country from us on all fides. At lafl we found ourfelves near the fea-fliore, from whence wc had fct our, and faw, or thought we faw, that thc inhabitants had been artful enough to lead, us far from their dwellings, where they diflike the prefence of flrangcrs. One of them was a very intelligent man, and gave us the names of feveral iflands in thc neighbourhood, fome in directions where wc had not been. As we knew, that captain Cook had collected a lifl of names of countries thc day before, all which he afterwards found to be dillricts on the ifle of Tanna, wc particularly enquired of our Indian, whether thc places which he enumerated were like-wife fltuated on this iiland ; but he exprefsly faid there was thc fea (taifec) between them ; and feeing us make circles on a paper, made figns that wc were right. We fpent thc afternoon in an excurflon round the flat hill: to thc fouth-caftward. Here wc found fome new plants, and, and met with a few natives, who offered to conduct us to the fea on the other fide. However, obferving that they only endeavoured to lead us back to the watering place by another path, we left them, and walked on alone through the plantations, many of which were enclofcd with fences of rccd five feet high. However another native foon came after us, and brought us to thc beach on the other fide of the ifland. We faw the ifle of Anattom again, and the native pointed a little to the north of it, where he faid another ifland was fituatcd, which he called Eetonga. This circum-Rancc flrcngthens the conjecture which I ventured before, that there is fome connection or intcrcourfe between Tanna and the Friendly Iflands. The name of Eetonga has a great fimilarity with that of Tonga-Tabboo, and fome of the natives of Middleburgh Iiland, or Eaoowhe, really call it Eetonga-Tabboo. Thc latter part of thc word, (Tabboo) is affixed to other iflands in thc Pacific Ocean ; viz. Tabboo-amannoo (Saunders Ifland) and Tabboo ai *. I will not pretend to fay that thc people of Tanna defign the ifland of Tonga-Tabboo by their Eetonga ; but there is room to fuppofc that fome other ifland of that name may be fltuated towards the Friendly Iflands which facilitates the connection. When we had fatisficd our curiofity wc returned to thc beach at the bay, where our people had once more * An ifland enumerated by thc Tahcitians. caught caught about two hundred and fifty pounds weight of fiOi. This good fortune enabled the captain to give the whole fhip's company another frefh meal, which was confumed with the greatefl avidity. The bay contained great plenty of fifh, and fome of the petty officers, who took the trouble of fifhing, caught feveral albecores and cavalhas of prodigious dimcnfions during night. Two fifh of the fame fpecies which bad poifoned fo many perfons at Mallicollo were likewife taken one morning ; but though I wifhed particularly to draw and defcribe this fpecies, in order to enable future navigators to be on their guard, yet fuch was the grcedinefs with which all our fliipmates now feized on a frcfh meal, that in fpite of the example, which was recent in all our memories, the fifh were cut up, falted, and peppered the moment they came out of the water. Fortunately thofe who dined upon them did not feel any bad effects; a farther proof that thofe which poifoned the officers had fed upon fome noxious vegetables, and by that means acquired a bad quality, which is not natural to them. Our failors relied on thc experiment of the filver-fpoon, which remained perfectly untainted after being boiled with thc fifh; but it is at prefent well known that this mark is extremely fallacious, and that only certain forts of poifons tinge that metal with an unufud colour. The natives Rill continued to fell us fome yams, but the trade was very far from being brifk. Tortoife-fhell was the only commodity which Ai'^r. which they were defirous to obtain; but as wc had never expected a demand for it, it happened that there were only a few fmall pieces in the (hip, which had been accidentally purchafed at Tonga-Tabboo. Thofe who were in poffefllon of this valuable article were far from making proper ufe of it. Notwithftanding thc loathfomenefs of fait meat, the failor could not be brought to have a fingle provident thought for the future, and exchanged his tortoife-fhell for bows and arrows, inflcad of laying up a Rock of yams. Our (hort excurfions into the country did not produce fuch great difcovcrics in botany, as to confine us to thc fliip a whole day. *We therefore haflcncd afliorc every morning, and endeavoured to collect materials for new obfer-vation. On thc 13th, wc walked up the flat hill to thc eaftward, in order to vifit our friends who lived with old Paw-yangom. Wc arrived at the plantations unfeen by any of thc natives, who now came down in very fmall numbers to thc beach, their curiofity being fatiaficd, and their ditlrull confiderably lcllcned. Wc heard one of thc men at work cutting down a tree with his hatchet of (lone, and obfervcd him through thc bullies a long while, Thc tree was not fo thick as a man's thigh, and yet it was a very laborious undertaking, with fuch a tool as this hatchet, to cut it in two. Wc went up to him, and he immediately left off working, in order to talk to us. Several boys, who remembered us, came, calling us by name, and brought Saturday ij. brought us handfulls of figs and yamboos; and thc women likewife ventured to come and look at us. We examined the hatchet which the man employed, and found it formed exactly like thofe which are made ufe of at the Friendly and Society Iflands. Thc blade was of a black Rone, which refembled the bafaltcs employed at thofe places, and he told us it came from the ifle of Anattom. He flicwed us at thc fame time another kind of hatchet, to which a broken fliell was faliened inilead of a blade. This fliell, which feemed to be a part of a mitre-fhcll (voluta mltra), he faid was brought from the low ifland Immcr, a few leagues to the nortlnvard of thc bay.' It appeared that he was clearing a piece of ground, in order to plant it with yams. He had'already cut down a quantity of bufhes, which lay in heaps, and which he told us he would fet on fire. We proceeded from hence towards the fea fliore on the other fide, attended by a number of boys, and feveral young men. We (hot fome birds in our way thither, and collected feveral new plants in the plantations, which were more delightfully fltuated than any wc had hitherto fcen. We found in them a variety of odoriferous plants, and fome others, which it feems were cultivated only for their elegant appearance, as is frequently practifed in gardens, Wc alfo took notice of thc catappa-trce, of which thc nuts have a large delicious kernel, twice as big as an almond. It had flied its leaves at prefent; but the nuts of the lafl fcafon were flill flicking Vol. II. S s on on the branches: the boys broke the hard fhell between Rones, prefenting the kernel to us on a clean frelh leaf. They were as afliduous at prefent in offering their fervices as the Tahcitians, and from lefs interefted motives. If we had collected a plant, of which we could find no other fpe-cimens, we only (hewed it them, and away they flew to gather it for us, in places where they knew it was to be found. They were extremely fond of feeing us fhoot, eagerly pointed out birds on the fummits of the coco-palms, and were overjoyed as often as wc killed them. Near every hut we faw fome poultry, and feveral well fed hogs and here and there we obfervcd rats running over the path, of thc fame fort which is common in the other iflands of the Pacific Ocean. They particularly frequented thc fields of fugar-cane, in which they make great depredation. The natives had therefore dug feveral holes all round thefe plantations, in which they catch thefe animals. When wc came to the fea (horc, wc walked to thc northward along the beach a good away, in order to come to the point, which the natives from thc other fide had repeatedly guarded from our fight. On the fhore wc obferved fome fmall huts, which we took to be thc abode of fifhermen, and from whence we concluded that wc had been formerly miflaken, in fuppofing them unacquainted with filhingj however, wc (aw no inhabitants, no nets, nor fifli in thefe huts, but only fome darts, which might be ufed as harpoons, poons, or frfh-gigs. Our attending Indians were greatly alarmed on feeing us go on towards the point, and with much anxious intreaty prevailed on us to give up all thoughts of going to examine that part of the iRand. They repeated to us the figns of eating human flefh ; and it is not to be doubted, but that this practice Rill prevails among them. Thofe who contend, that anthropophagy has the plea of the moll cruel neceffity, will hardly be able to account for its cxillcnce in a nation living in a rich and fertile country, having plenty of vegetable food, and likewife well provided with domeftic animals. The principle of revenge feems much more likely to have produced this extraordinary cuflom, wherever it has been obfervcd. Self-preservation is doubtlefs the firfl. law of nature, and thc pailions are fubfer-vicnt to its purpofes. In civilized communities wc have tacitly confented to laws and regulations, and delegated to certain individuals the power to rcdrefs our wrongs ; but among favages every man rights himfelf, and anger and revenge arc implanted in his bread, to reprefs thc injuries and opprcffions of others. They arc equally natural to him as thc fentiments of general philanthropy ; and however different and oppofite thefc two impulfes of nature may feem, yet they are fprings, which by acting again ft each other, keep the whole fydem of human fociety in conflant motion, and prevent its total fubvcrfion or corruption. A man wholly deftitute of philanthropy is a S s 2 monflcr, monfler, juflly detefled by all mankind; but another, entirely incapable of anger, is a ftieepifli wretch, liable to be infulted by every mean-fpirited villain. A nation, or I may fay a family, (as favages feldom live in greater communities), which has been frequently expofed to the attacks and infults of others, naturally contracts a degree of hatred and inveteracy againfl its oppreffors, which renders its revenge more furious, unbounded, and, in our eyes, more cruel. If the enemy have ufed treacherous arts, they create diftrufl, and in thc end form a malevolent difpofition, which foon has recourfeto thc fame bafenefs. At thc Icaft fliadow of an injury they arc up in arms, and threaten to hear down all before them : when they are actually provoked, they arc ruled by no other law but that of the flrongefl, and exterminate their foes with a degree of fury, which is capable of the molt horrid cxcclfcs *. On the contrary, a nation, which has not experienced, or has long loll the remembrance of mifchievous enemies, and inveterate broils, which, by applying to agriculture, has arrived to a degree of opulence, luxury, and civilization, and acquired new and refined ideas of philanthropy, is unaccuilomcd to the hidden overflowings of thc bile, and flow to refent an affront |\ The natives of Tanna doubtlcfs arc engaged, cither in civil feuds with each other, or in frequent wars * Sec vol, I. p. 173, ■\ lb ill, p. 321. with with the adjacent iflandcrs j their referved and diflruflful behaviour towards us at firfl, and their cuflom of going conflantly armed, feems clearly to prove the truth of this ailertion. We have therefore, I think, great room to believe, that the violence of refentment has infenfibly led them to the cuflom of eating human flefli, which they pracTife according to their own confeflion. But we muR Rill remain utterly ignorant of the reafons which induced them to prohibit our accefs towards the caftern point of the harbour. We turned back with our Indians to their great joy and fatisfaction. They led us on by a path which we had never trodden before, through a variety of the richefl plantations, kept in excellent order. The boys ran before us, and gave us repeated marks of their Dull in warlike excrcifes. They flung a Rone wich great accuracy, and made ufe of a green reed, or fliff grafs, in lieu of a dart. They had attained to fuch perfection in throwing the latter, that they never failed to hit their object, and knew to give the reed, which every breath of air might turn out of its way, fo much force and moment, that it entered above an inch into the harder! wood. They poifed it between the lowed: joint of the thumb, and the hand, without touching it with a fingle finger. The youngefl among them, five or fix years old, already habituated them-felv, s to this exercife, and thus prepared one day, to wield their their arms with activity and effect. By various windings we came back to their habitations, where the women were employed in dreffing their dinner. They had made a fire of a few flicks above ground, under the fig-tree, and broiled the roots of yams and eddoes over it. As foon as we arrived they were fiartled, and began to run away, but our conductors quieted them, and they continued their operations. We fat down on the trunk of a tree which lay before one of the houfes, and endeavoured to talk with our new friends as well as we could, whilft fome of them were gone to fetch us fome refreshments. We collected a number of words of their language on this occafion, and had the pleafure to fatisfy their curiofity rc-fpecting our drefs, arms, and various implements, con^ cerning which they had hitherto not ventured to alk a finglc qucftion. Thc inhabitants of adjacent plantations hearing of our arrival, crouded about us, and fecmed much plcafcd that they could converfe amicably and familiarly with us. As I happened to hum a fong, many of them very eagerly intrcated me to fing to them, and though not one of ns was propetly acquainted with mufic, yet we ventured to gratify their curiofity, and in fact, offered them a great variety of different airs. Some German and Englifh fong*, efpecially of the more lively kind, plcafcd them very much ; but Dr. Sparrman's Swcdifh tunes .gained univerfal applaufe ; from whence it appeared that their their judgment of mufic was not influenced by the fame Al7J£'ST. rules which regulate the tafle of other countries. When we had performed, we defircd them in return to give us an opportunity of admiring their talents, and one of them immediately began a very fimple tune ; it was however harmonious, and, as far as we could judge, fupcrior to thc mufic of all the nations in thc tropical part of thc South Sea, which we had hitherto heard. It ran through a much more con-fulcrable compafs of notes, than is employed at Taheitce, or even at Tonga-Tabboo ; and had a fcrious turn which diflin-guifhed it very remarkably from the foftcr effeminate mufic of thofe iflands. The words fecmed to be metrically arranged, and flowed very currently from the tongue. When thc firfl had finiflied his (ong, another began ; his tunc was different as to thc compofition, but had the fame ferious ftyle which flrongly marked thc general turn of thc people. They were indeed feldom fcen to laugh fo heartily, and jcil fo facctioufly, as the more polifhcd nations of thc friendly and Society Iflands, who have already learnt to fet a great value on thefe enjoyments. Our friendly natives likewife produced a mufical inflrumcnt, which confiflcd of eight reeds, like thc fyrinx of Tonga-Tabboo, with this difference, that the reeds regularly decreafed in li/.c, and comprehended an octave, though thc fmglc reeds were not perfectly in tune. We might perhaps have had an opportunity of hearing them play on this inflrument, had not the arrival of fome of their brethren with a prefent of coco-nuts, yams, fngar- cancs5 canes, and figs, obliged us in civility to transfer our attention from thc muficians, to thofe who brought us fuch a valuable gift. And here I cannot but lament, that the ingenious and obliging friend, who communicated to me his remarks on the mufic of the Friendly Iflands, of Taheitce and New Zeeland, did not likewife vifit the ifland of Tanna, which in that refpect would doubtlefs have fur-nifhed him with fome curious and ufeful obfervations. If we have before obfervcd thc principle of revenge to have been active among the natives of Tanna, we mufl allow at thc fame time, that benevolence, and a love of thc fellow-creature, are not entirely baniflicd from their hearts. As there is the grcatcft reafon to fuppofc, that their life is frequently diflurbed by the troubles of war, we cannot be furprifed at thc diflruft which they all cxprciTed towards us, on the firfl days of our acquaintance *, but as foon as they were thoroughly convinced of our harmlcfs intentions, they naturally gave way to a contrary impulfc, which nothing but die neccflity of fclf-preservation could have Glenced fo long. They did not indeed trade with us, bc-caufc their affluence is not yet equal to that of thc Tahcitians; but hofpitality docs not confifl in exchanging an article of which you have more than a fufllcicncy, for another of which you (land greatly in need. Having made various prefents to our friends, to thc befl of our abilities, we returned down to thc beach, and paflcd fome fome time among the natives who were there affembled. We aIV?*t. obferved more women among them this day, than we had found before; moft of them were married, and carried their children in a mat-fatchel on their backs. Some had bafkets of a clofe texture, made of pliant Ricks, in which they brought a brood of young chickens, whilfl others had yam boos, and figs, which they prefented to us. Among the rcll, wc faw" one who had a whole bafket full of green oranges, though on all our excurfions wc had never found a Angle orange tree in the plantations. However, we were much pleafed to have fecn this fruit at Tanna, as well as at Mallicollo, there being great room to fuppofc, that it is likewife a production of thc intermediate idands. We were fortunate in little acquifitions to-day ; another woman gave us a pye or pudding, of which the crufl or dough was made of bananas, and eddoes ; and thc contents were thc leaves of thc okra (hibifvm ejculenius) mixed up with the kernel of a coco-nut. This pudding was exceedingly well-tailed, and flic wed that the women arc well fkilled in cookery. Wc alfo purchafed feveral pipes of eight reeds, which the natives brought for fale, and fome bows, arrows, and clubs ; wiih all which we returned on board, rather la'cr in thc day than ufual. After dinner wc came on fliore again, to be prefent at hauling the fcinc ; however, when we arrived on thc beach, wc fcparated, and Dr. Sparrman went up the flat hill with Vol. II. T t me, me, to pay another vifit to the natives. Some of them met us about half way, and conducted us to the huts. Wc were no fooncr fcatcd with the father of one of the families, a middle-aged man, of a promifing countenance, than our friends importuned us to fing to them again. Wc readily complied with their rcqueft, and when they fecmed to wonder at thc difference in our fongs, we endeavoured to make them comprehend that we were natives of different countries. Hearing this, they pointed at an elderly thin man in thc circle of our hearers, and telling us that he was a native of Irromanga *, dcfircd him to fing to us. Thc man immediately ftepped forward, and began a fong, in the courfe of which he made a variety of getliculations, not only to our entertainment, but to thc great fatisfaction of all the people about him. His fong was to thc full as muueal as that of thc people of Tanna, but it fecmed to be of a droll or humorous nature, from his various ludicrous poilures, and from thc particular tone of thc whole. Thc language was utterly dillincT from that of Tanna, but not hailh or ill-fuited to mufic. It fccmcd likewife to have a certain metre, but very different from that ilovv and fcrious ouc which \vj heard this morning. It appeared to us, when he had done finging, that thc people of Tanna fpoke to him in his own language, but that he was not acquainted with theirs. Whether he came as a viiitor, or had been * The laft ifland from whence wc came to Tanna. taken taken prifoner, we could not determine; the natives how- AJ£ ever told us upon this occafion, that their befi clubs, made of cafuarina wood, came from Irromanga, fo that it is probable they have an amicable intercourfe, or carry on a kind of trade with the inhabitants of that iQand. We obferved no remarkable characTeriftic difference in his features from thofe of the people of Tanna, and his cuflom of dreff-ing, or rather ornamenting himfelf was the fame. His hair was woolly, fliort, and therefore not divided into Httlc queues. His temper was very chearful, and he appeared to be more inclined to mirth than any of the people of Tanna. Whilfl thc native of Irromanga was finging, the women came out of their huts, and fcatcd themfclves in thc little group which furrounded us. They were in general of a low flature, compared with the men, and wore fhaggy petticoats, made of graffes and leaves, which lengthened according to their age. Such as had borne children, and iu ined to be about thirty years old, had entirely loR all the feminine graces, and their petticoats defcended to the ancles. Some young girls, about fourteen years of age, had very agreeable fmall features, and a fmile which became more engaging, in proportion as their fears wore off. Their whole form was flcndcr, their arms particularly delicate, but the bofom round and full, and the petticoats barely reaching to thc knee. Their hair cmHng upon T t 2 their their heads, without being cut, or reftrained into any particular form, had not a bad effect j and the green plantane leaf which they generally wore, inflcad of covering it from thc fight, fcrved rather to fet off its black colour to advantage. They wore in their ears tortoife-fliell rings ; but we obferved that the number of ornaments confiderably encreafed with age, the oldeft and uglicfl being loaded with necklaces, ear-rings, nofe-jewels, and bracelets. It appeared to me that thc women were not held in any cflccm by the men, but obeyed upon the fmallcfl fign ; and according to thc accounts of our waterers (Sec above, p. 2^2.) many were fcen in the humiliating guife of drudges and beads of burden. Perhaps thc laborious talks which they arc forced to perform, contribute to leflen their flaturc, cf-pecially if they are difproportioncd to their flrcngth. It is thc practice of all uncivilized nations to deny their women thc common privileges of human beings, and to treat them as creatures inferior to themfclves. The ideas of finding happinefs and comfort in thc bofom of a companion, only a rife with a higher degree of culture. Where the mind is continually occupied with thc means of felf-prefer\ at ion, there can be but little refined fentiment in thc commerce of thc fexes, and nothing but brutal enjoyment is known. Inlirmity and mccknefr, inflcad of finding a protector in the lavage, arc commonly infuhed and oppreffed : thc love of power is fo natural to mankind, that they eagerly fci/e every oppor.- opportunity to exercife their Superiority over thofe who are Av"ukti unable to refill. Thc encrcafe of population neceffarily brings on a greater degree of polifh; the cares of felf-prefervation are in great mcafure removed from the individual to the community ; alllucnce takes the place of want and indigence, and the mind more unemployed, takes plcafure in the more refined enjoyment of life; it gives a loofc to a difpofition for mirth and play, and learns to fet a value on the amiable qualities of the fex. The favage is not wholly incapable of tender-nefs and affection ; wc trace them in thc boy whilfl he remains thoughtlcfs and free from care* ; but as foon as he feels the urgent wants of his cxiflencc, every other fenti-ment or inflinct is forced to lie dormant. We obfervcd an in fiance of affection among the natives of Tanna this evening, which flrongly proves that the paffions and innate qualities of human nature are much thc fame in every climate. A little girl, about eight years old, of very agreeable features, peeped at us between thc heads of the people who were featcd on thc ground. As foon as flie found hcr-fclf obfervcd, flic ran away to hide herfelf in the hut. I beckoned thc child to come back, and fliewed her a piece of Taheitee cloth, but I could not prevail on her to come and fetch it. Her father got up, and with fome entreaty per-funded her to come to me. I took hold of her hand, and * Wc may remember, that thc attachment of thc people at Tanna towards us, began with thc rifing generation. gave gave her thc cloth, and a number of little ornaments. But I was overpaid by the pleafure of the father, the joy, the tbndncfs which fparkled in his eyes, and lighted up his whole countenance. We Aaid among thefe people till funfet, and were entertained with fongs, and with a difplay of their fkilh At our rcqucft they fliot their arrows into thc air, and at a mark. They did not force thc arrow to any extraordinary height, but were very accurate markfmcn at a fhort diftance, as has been already obferved. With their clubs they parried the darts of their antagonifl, nearly in thc fame manner as I have defcribed at Taheitee (Sec p. 104,) They told us that all the clubs which have a lateral blade, like a fleam (See p. 280.) are brought from thc low ifland, which they call Immcr ; but we could not learn whether they are manufactured there by the inhabitants, or whether the iiland is uninhabited, and they only vifit it occa(tonally, ro gather fhclls and to cut wood. Before we left thc huts, the women had lighted feveral Arcs in and about them, and began to drefs their fuppcrs, The natives all huddled about thefc fires, and fecmed to feel the evening air rather too cool for their naked bodies. Several of them had a /welling in the upper eye-lid, which wc attributed in fome mcafure to this practice of fitting in the fmoak. It impeded their fight fo much, that they were obliged to lean their heads backwards, till thc eye was in a horizontal line with with the object which they wiflied to behold. This com- aJgKt. plaint was the more remarkable, as it extended to feveral little boys five and fix years old \ from whence we fuf-pected that it was perhaps propagated from one generation to another. When we arrived on the beach, almofl all the natives had left it, and in a lhort time we were left entirely to ourfelves. To us, who were provided with cloaths, the cool of the evening was delightful, and wc rambled about the deferted woods till the twilight had entirely difappearcd. A prodigious number of bats of a fmall fize fluttered about us, coming out of every bufh ; but our endeavours to (hoot at them were entirely uniuccefsful, for wc could not ice them till they were clofe to us, and they were inflantly out of light again. Our people having replaced their nets in the boats, after toiling a long time with no other fuccefs than a dozen or two of fifh, which all together might weigh thirty pounds, wc embarked likewife, and returned on board to re (I from our cxcurfion. Thc next morning captain Cook, Mr. Wales, Mr. Patron, and fcveral other gentlemen, who were dcfirous to examine thc volcano, fet out with Dr. Sparrman, my father, myfelf, and two men, and walked up thc hill on the vveR fide of thc bay. The weather was foggy, heavy, and fultry, but the volcano was quiet. We foon reached thc folfatara, where the hot fleam rofe plentifully. The experiment to meafure aSV. meafure thc degree of heat was repeated as on the 12th, with this difference, that the thermometer was entirely buried in thc white earth where the vapour came up. After it had remained one minute in this Rate, it rofe to 2100, which is nearly the heat of boiling water, and remained flationary there as long as we kept it in the hole, which was for thc fpace of five minutes. As foon as it was taken our, it fell inftantly to 95 °, and gradually defcended to So°, where it had Rood previous to the immerfion. The perpendicular height of thc firft foifatara, above the level of the fea, is about 80 yards. We proceeded up thc hill, and faw feveral cxtenlive fpots of ground which had been cleared of wood in order to be cultivated. The wretched tools of thc natives, and the ncccility of working very flowly with them, to which we had been witnefles on the other hill, convinced us that tins piece of ground, which comprehended near two acres, muff have required a great deal of labour and a long fpace of time to clear. We pa Red by fome dwellings, but did not fee a native ftirring, till we came to another plantation in very good order, where a fingle man was planting fome yams. He was at firft a little flan fed at our appearance, but on afking him the way to die volcano, he pointed out a pat!) and returned to his former employment. Wc faw fome hogs and poultry in the neighbourhood of thefe houfes, which were permitted to roam ah 'in unconfined; but perhaps the fences which the natives tives form round fome of their plantations, may be intend- aIc'SU. ed to exclude the hogs. A little farther on we were met by two natives, who came out of an adjacent garden of bananas, and continued to walk with us. Coming to a place wmcre the path divided, another man appeared in that part which led into the country, and with his uplifted dart prohibited our advancing that way. We told him we were de-firous of going to the volcano, and he prefently pointed out the other path to us, and went before to lead the way. As we advanced, we took notice that he continually counted over our number; and having brought us to a clear part of the hill, from whence a considerable fpace of country could be overlooked, we difcovcred that he had milled us, and attempted to bring us off our road. We therefore returned thc fame way we came, in fpite of his figns, which he did not think proper to enforce at prefent with any hof-tilc gcflurcs. However, feeing us determined to proceed againfl his will, he blew with great force into his hand Several times, and was foon anfwered by thc founding of fcveral conchs on different parts of thc hill. He now called oyt as loud as he could, and we plainly heard him mention how many there were of us, probably defiling his countrymen to affcmblc and oppofe us. In the meanwhile wc loll our road and came into a fine fecludcd dell, fur-rounded by trees of prodigious height and extent, where numbers of pigeons and parroqucts fluttered about. We Vol. II U u paffed pafled fome time in Riooting here, whilfl feveral of the natives Rill continued with us, efpecially a couple of little boys, to whom we made fome prefents to gain their goodwill. From hence we proceeded into a dark path, which had many various windings, and at once opened upon a clear fpot, fur rounded by three or four houfes of the fame dimenfions as thofe where old Paw-yangom dwelt. Here about a dozen men, well armed with bows and arrows, clubs and darts, were fitting on their hams in a row, who inftantly flartcd up at fight of us. We beckoned to them, and made figns that wc meant no harm, but they feemed not to truft us entirely. Some elderly men among them feemed to have pacific intentions, but two or three young fellows frowned, and made feveral motions with their arms, which, though not exactly directed towards us, yet might liave been conflrucd into a provocation if we had been very irafcible. We concluded it was bed to return, and defired them to flicw us the road to thc fea. We could not have hit upon a better method of quieting their diflrull and ap-prchenfions at once. Some of them went before us down a narrow path, which was rather flccp at firft but became more eafy afterwards. Having defcended about a quarter of a mile, they defired us to flop and take fome repofe, and fcveral of their brethren came to us loaded with coco-nuts,, bananas, and abundance of fugar-cancs. The fultrinefs of thc weather made thefe rcfrefhmcnts very acceptable. We gave gave the Indians feveral prefents in return, and were well Av\^t'-,, pleafed that it was only from diltruft, and not real malevolence, that they had collected together to oppofe our pro-grcfs into thc country. After a walk of half an hour wc returned to the beach from whence we had fet out, and happily ended an excurfion which might, with a little more rafhnefs on our part, have proved fatal not only to thc natives, but, in the end, to ourfelves. We were forced to give up all hopes of approaching thc volcano j but it is furcly advifcable to abandon a purfuit where knowledge cannot be obtained without bloodfhcd and injuflice. During our walk, our people had hauled the feinc with thc flood-tide, and obtained a fmall quantity of fifh, among which we found a new fpecies. The pond of frefh water likewife furnifhed us with a new fort of fifh, and the fca-men caught a number of mud eels in it. With thefe fifh, and feveral new plants collected on thc hill, we returned on board, and palled the afternoon in defcribing and drawing them. We rcfumed our excurfionss into the country the next Monday r* morning. The trade for yams and for thc weapons of the natives was flill carried on, but tortoife-fliell was fo fcarce in thc (hip that we could make but a fmall purchafe of provifions. The mother of pearl fifh-hooks of thc Friendly lilands, which had the barb of tortoifc-fhcll, were in great rcquell, and our feamcn could fometimes obtain a handful U u 2 of of arrows for one of them; whereas another fifh-hook, equally good, but with a mother of pearl barb, was not cfleemed by the natives. We rambled about among thc woods on the plain, and Riot fcveral birds, of which this ifland has a great variety. We alfo met with a number of Eaft-Indian plants* which we had never obferved in the more caflcrly iilands. But the moR valuable acquifition, in our opinion, was a pigeon, of the fort which is common at thc Friendly Iflands. This bird had the fides of its bill covered with a red fubftancc, and, upon farther examination, had in its mouth and craw two nutmegs, recently fwallowcd. They were flill furrounded by a fcarlet coating, which was their mace, and had a bitter aromatic taflc, but no fmcll. The nutmeg itfclf was confiderably more oblong than the true fpicc of that name, but had likewife a very bitter and aromatic taflc. We foon met with a native, to whom we fhewed thc fruit, and defired him to point out the tree on which it grew, offering him a mother of pearl fliell for his trouble. He conducted us about half a mile up into thc country to a young tree, which, as he affirmed, bore thc nutmeg. Wc gathered its leaves, but faw no fruit, which thc native faid had all been eaten by thc pigeons. The name of the fruit, in the language of the country, was * The flerculia b JlercuUa ftetldu, dlofcorca eppo/itifolia, ricinus vwppay acanthus i/icifolius, ifchamum mutttum, pankum dimidiutum, croton variegatunh Ml*j many others. guamiatdu. guannatdn, We heard fome mufkets fired, which had an A^\4;% unufual report, and made us apprehenfive that fome diflur-bance had happened, cfpecially as we thought wc under-Rood fomething to that purpofe from the mouth of a native who paffed by us coming from the beach. Wc therefore hailened to the fea-iide, but foon found that every tiling had been quiet there. However, mewing the leaves of the tree, which we had received as belonging to the nutmeg-tree, all the natives on the beach agreed in giving it a different name from that which our guide had told us, though he endeavoured to cover his deceit by telling his countrymen to name thc leaf as he had done. We expreffed flrong marks of indignation at his behaviour, and thc other natives likewife rebuked him. In the afternoon captain Cook, with lieutenants Cooper and Pickerfgill, Mr. Patton, Mr. Hodges, Dr. Sparrman, my father, and myfelf, went upon thc flat hill to the eaft-ward, and pafled through thc plantation to the fca^fhore on the other fide. The Ifle of Anattom, which thc captain was particularly defirous to fee, was for the greatcfl part involved in haze. We returned therefore leifurcly through other gardens, (hooting fcveral birds, till we came to the huts of our friendly Indians. The father of thc child which I mentioned page 325, brought me a prefent of bananas, fugar-canes, and coco-nuts, and thus confirmed U3 in the good opinion we had formed of his fcnfibility. Mr. ai^/ust Mr. Hodges made feveral fketches of views, and particularly drew this little farm, with a group of natives of both fexes, feated under the fiiady branches of the fig-tree. From thence he afterwards compofed an elegant picture, which is engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage, and gives a perfect idea of the iiland of Tanna, and its inhabitants. Towards fun-fet wc returned on board, Tuefday 10. rphe next morning wc came afhore again, and immediately walked into the woods on the plain. We faw a great number of large and beautiful parroqucts, of black, red, and yellow plumage ; but they kept on the tops of the higheil fig-trees, where they were wholly out of the reach of fmall (hot, guarded by the thick foliage. Thc fize of thefc trees can fcarcely be imagined. Their roots grow above ground a conliderable part of their length, and converge together into one enormous Rem about ten or twelve feet above the furface. This Rem which is frequently no lefs than three yards in diameter, feems to confifl of fcveral trees grown together, which form every where fliarp longitudinal angles, projecting above three feet from the main body. Thus it riles thirty or forty feet, before it divides into branches, which are above a yard in diameter. Thefe run up nearly to thc fame height without dividing, and the fummit of the tree is at lcafl one hundred and fifty feet high. The place where they were mofl frequent, was a niarlh or fwamp, occalioncd by feveral branches of the fame fame pond, from which we fupplied our fliip with freih aJg7v4Jt. water. We were not able to determine whether this pond is the remains of a river, coming from the inland mountains, and lofing itfelf in the volcanic fand and aflies which cover the plain ; or whether it is only the produce of thc rains in the fummer months. It had innumerable quantities of mufketoes which were very troublefome to us, and was likewife the abode of rails and ducks, of which we could never obtain any, though they appeared to be of a new fpecies. We walked on through the plain, keeping on its weflern part, and croffed feveral fpots, which being covered with grafles, rcfembled our meadows, but were much overun with bind-weeds, and feparated from each other by wild fhrubberics which had the effect of hedges. Now and then we met with great fpots entirely covered with tall reeds (faccharum fpontaneum, Linn.) which wc could hardly imagine to have grown in fuch great quantities without cultivation. They fupply thc natives with fhafts for their arrows, and are made ufe of in bafket-work, fences, &c. Beyond thefe fields wc came into a forefl, confiding of trees of thc fame fort with thofe which cover thc weftern fhorcs of thc bay. Here we fliot a fpecies of wild dove hitherto unknown to naturalills, and faw fome parro-qucts, which were cxccffivcly (hy, and may perhaps be feared by thc natives, whofe orchards they infeft. Advancing dill farther we came into a hollow road, which appeared; .7.74*.. peared to have been formed by a current of water, but was perfectly dry at prefent, and ferved as a path to the natives. Its fides were fringed in the moft beautiful manner with fhrubberics and palms ; and in one part a huge venerable fig-tree (ficus rcHgiofa, Linn.) of the fame fort to which the Cinghalefe and natives of Malabar pay a particular regard *, flruck its roots into both fides, and formed an aflonifhing vaulted arch over the lane, which was at leail five yards wide. A prodigious number of birds, of a very diminutive fize, fluttered about on its uppcrmoft branches, and picked off thc fruit. We reftcd fome time under its (Lade, whilfl fcveral natives paffed by, who did not exprefs thc leaf! uncaflnefs at fight of us, and with perfect unconcern heard our fowling-pieces fired at birds. Towards noon we returned to the fea fide, and though the weather was very hot, yet as wc walked almofl continually in thc fhadc, wc felt no inconvenience. Before wc came to the water-in g-pjace, wc paffed through a fhrubbery, where we found a native at work cutting flicks, on which thc climbing flalks of thc yams (diofcorca opfofuifolia) arc fupportcd. Seeing that he cut them very flowly with his hatchet, which had only a bic of fliell in lieu of a blade, we began to help hum with ah Englifli hatchet, and in a few minutes cut a much greater heap than he had done the whole day. The * They make faenfiecs under its fliadc, where fome of their divinities arc faid to have been born. natives natives who were now frequently pafling, as the hour of AJ2L. their meals was at hand, flood Rill, and expreffed the greatefl aftoniflimcnt at the extreme utility of this tool, and fome were very deftrous to pofTefs it, by offering their bows and arrows for it. We thought this was a favouiable opportunity to encourage them to part with their hogs, and told them we would exchange our hatchet for one of thefe animals; but they were deaf to this propofal, and never fold us a Angle hog during our flay. Having fhewn them the wild nutmeg which we had found in thc pigeon's craw the day before, one of them produced three others, which were wrapped in their mace, but could not point out the tree on which they grew. They gave thefe nuts feveral different: names, and told us they grew on a tree called neerqflj. On having rccourfe to our books, we found that this fpecies has fome refcmblance to the wild nutmeg of Rumphius, and feems to be exactly the fame with a fort which is found in thc Philipinas. The pigeon which feeds upon it at Tanna is the fame which Rumphius defcribes as the difleminator of the true nutmeg at the Spice Iflands, and we had the honour of prefenting one alive to her majefty. We found a very old decrepit man fitting on the beach whom we had never feen before. Many among thc croud told us his name was Yogai, and that he was their areckee* He was of a tall ftature, but very lean and worn out ; his face was wrinkled, his hcadalmofl entirely bald, and what Vol. Jl. X x little little hair remained was perfectly grey. There was however an expreRion of kindnefs in his features, which pre-ferved the veftiges of a former manly beauty. Near hinx fat another pcrfon, who might have paffed for an old man, if he had not been in company with the former. The refl of the people told us he was the fon of Yogai, and named Yatta. He was likewife a tall man, but well-proportioned, and remarkably well-featured for a native of Tanna. His hair was black, frizzled, and almofl woolly, but not dreffed; and he had a very engaging, fenfible look, which exprcflcd great good-nature towards the (hangers. The natives acquainted us that he was the kou-vo/b, which we fuppofe to be a title perhaps equivalent to fuch exprcflions as " fuc-ceRor, heir, prince of the blood," and the like, which are ufed in civilized countries. As their colour was exactly the fame with that of the common people, for they were both of a very blackiih or footy complexion, we took particular care to examine whether there was any difference between their ornaments and thofe of thc refl of the natives ; but all the diflinction which we could obferve, confided in the kind of fafli, or cloth, which they wore round their body as a belt. Thc fames of the common people were of an uniform cinnamon, or brownifh-ycllow colour ; but thefe two chiefs wore them painted with black lines, and chequered with compartments of black and red : however, it is not improbable that even this variation is merely accidental, dental, and by no means confidered as a mark of royalty by the natives. Upon the whole, no deference was paid to thefe two perfons, if we except the title of chiefs, with which they were diflinguifhed. We never obferved cither of them to ifTue any command, and it is very probable that their orders arc only obeyed in time of war. At Rich a period, the people readily give up their judgment to the experience of hoary age, and follow its counfels inflcad of laws. They implicitly truR their lives and fortunes to the conduct of a man, whofe fuperior valour, and confummate art, they acknowledge with one common voice. We made them fome trifling prefents, and gave them an invitation to come on board, which they declined. We then embarked in one of the boats, in order to go to dinner. Our people brought off a great quantity of club wood (cajuarina) from the fliore, having cut down a (lately tree of this fort, which grew upon the edge of the flat hill. They began to faw it thc preceding afternoon \ but Paw-yangom came to captain Cook to complain, becaufe this tree is highly valued at Tanna, and fo very fcarcc, that they arc obliged to go to Irromanga, where it grows more plentifully, in order to fupply themfclves with clubs. Captain Cook immediately ordered thc workmen to leave it; but afterwards finding that it wTas cut fo far that it could not grow any more, he gave the old man a dog, a quantity of Taheitce cloth, and fcveral other articles, for which he agreed that wc fliould take the tree, % x 2 and AvovtT. ana* tne inhabitants in his neighbourhood feemed perfectly fatisfied. Paw-yangom, no doubt, was a man of fome weight among the people who dwelt on thc flat hill, and it is not unlikely that his age alone had entitled him to fome deference. The government of the people of Tanna feems to be in its infant flate, and every family is guided by the advice of theoldeft men, their patriarchs, who never cxercife their authority in a fevere or tyrannical manner. We returned into the woods again after dinner, but made an unfuccefsful excurfion, having now fearched the fame fpots almoft every day fince our arrival on the ifland. The *r«d.Kfd. 17. next morning we renewed our rambles, in hopes of meeting by accident with thc nutmeg-tree. We pafled fome time in a fine plantation of bananas clofe to the weftern corner of the beach, where a number of parrots deflroyed the fruit; but they were fo extremely fliy, that we attempted in vain to come at them. Having taken a long walk into the country, during which we frequently fcparated from each other to a confidcrablc diflance, as we had now nothing to apprehend from the inhabitants, wc came back to thc beach. We found the lafl boat ready to put off, and returned to the fhip, where we found thc old chief YogaV, his fon Yatta, and a well-made boy, about fourteen years old, named Narrep, who appeared to be nearly related to them. They were all featcd on thc floor of the cabin when we came in, and captain Cook had given them a variety of prefents of all kinds. Thc old man man had received them with the indifference natural at his age; but his fon, and above all the boy Narrep, were extremely well plcafed with the civilities which had been Racwn them. We invited them to dinner, and they ate of fome yams, but would not touch any other food, behaving nearly as Fanokko, our former vifitor, had done (Ste p. 288.) As foon as we had dined, we embarked with them, and brought them to the beach, where the other natives converfed with them, and feemed to be highly plcafed with the deference which we had paid to their chiefs. The number of natives on the beach now rarely ever amounted to one hundred, including women and children, who commonly fat down in feveral groups under the fliadc of the bufhes. From time to time they brought us a yam or a bunch of bananas, for which they took. Taheitce cloth in exchange. The women fometimes had bafkets full of yamboo apples, feugeniaj which they fold for trifles, fuch as fmall bits of green nephritic Rone, black beads, and the like, and, as it feemed, more to fhew their good will, than from any value which they fet upon thofe articles. The civility of thc natives was, upon the whole, very confpicuous towards us. If they met us in a narrow path, they always ftepped afide into [he bufhes and gralfcs in order to make way for us. If they happened to know our names,they pronounced *Hem with a fflailc, which could be extremely well underwood Rood as a falutation ; or, if they had not feen us before, ihey commonly enquired our names in order to know us again. On the beach we had for fome days left off ftretch-ing ropes to rcferve a clear fpot for our waterers and woodcutters ; only a centry was placed on each fide, beyond whom they never ventured to advance, unlefs they came frefli from thc country, and were unacquainted with our regulations. In fliort, the change which our little flay among them had wrought in their opinion of us was already very remarkable, and continued every day to turn more in our favour. Yogai and Yatta, with Narrep and feveral other natives, left thc beach very foon, and returned through the woods to their own homes, which they pointed at as far diflant from thc bay. As foon as they were gone, captain Cook went in his boat with us to the people who loaded ballafl under thc weflern hill. Here we examined the hot-fprings which wc had difcovercd on the Thc next morning we were ready for failing, having taken in a fufficient quantity of ballaft, wood, and frcfli-watcr ; only the wind, which blew right into thc harbour, prevented our putting to fea. We went on fliore after brcak-faft, with the captain, and a party of people ; and he continued to trade with thc natives, whilfl wc went into thc country. Wc foon feparatcd, and each of us went by himfelf to a different part. I paflcd by a number of natives in their way to thc beach j but they all flepped out of the path to make room for mc, though I was without any companion, and not one of them attempted with a look or geflure to offend me. I flrollcd alone feveral miles in the back of the flat hill, or in thc valley along its fouth-fidc, to a part where I had never been before. Thc path which I followed was hid in thc thickefl groves, from whence I could only now and then difcern thc cxtcnfive plantations which covered the whole flopc of thc hill. Here 1 fee- I frequently faw the natives employed in cutting down trees, or pruning them, or digging up thc ground with a branch of a tree, inflead of a fpade, or planting yams, and other roots j and in one place, I heard a man finging at his work, nearly the fame tune which they ufed to fing to us on thc hill. The profpecT which I beheld was fo pleafing, that it did not fall much fliort of the beautiful fcencs of Taheitce. It had this advantage befides, that all the country about me to a great diflance, confiflcd of gentle elevations, and fpacious vallics, all which were capable of culture ; whereas at Taheitce the mountains rofe immediately craggy, wild, and majeftic from thc plain, which has no where the breadth of two miles. The plantations at Tanna confifl, for thc grcateft part of yams, bananas, eddocs, and fugar-cancs, all which being very low *, permit thc eye to take in a great extent of country. Single tufted trees rife in different places, and amufc the beholder with a variety of romantic forms. Thc whole fummit of the level hill which bounds a part of the horizon, appears fhaggy with little groves, where a number of lofty palms rife over thc refl of thc trees. Thofe who are capable of being delighted with the beau-tics of nature, which deck the globe for thc gratification of man, may conceive thc plcafurc which is derived from * The talleft banana-tree docs not exceed ten feet, and in general they are ■about fix f.'ct hi^h. Y y 2 every every little object, trifling in iifelf, but important in the moment when the heart is expanded, and when a kind of blifsful trance opens a higher and purer fphere of enjoyment. Then we behold with rapture the dark colour of lands frefh prepared for culture, the uniform verdure of meadows, the various tints upon the foliage of different trees, and the infinite varieties in the abundance, form, ancl fize of the leaves. Here thefe varieties appeared in all their perfection, and the different expofure of the trees to thc fun added to the magnificence of thc view. Some reflected a thoufand dancing beams, whilfl others formed a hroad mafs of fhadow, in contrafl with the furrounding world of light. The numerous fmokes which afcended from every grove on the hill, revived thc plcafing impref-fions of domeflic life; nay my thoughts naturally turned upon friendfhip and national felicity, when I beheld large fields of plantanes all round me, which, loaded with golden cluftcrs of fruit, feemed to be juflly chofen thc emblems of peace and affluence. The cheerful voice of thc labouring hufbandman refounded very opportunely to complete this idea. The landfcape to the weftward was not lefs admirable than that of which I have juft now fpoken. The rich plain was bounded on that fide by a vafl number of fertile hills, covered with forcfls, interfperfed with plantations, and beyond them rofe a ridge of high mountains, not inferior to thofe of the Society Illands, though apparently fy of a much eafier Hope. The folitary fpot from whence I beheld this rural fcene was likewife favoured by nature. It was a delightful duller of trees, which climbers and bindweeds decked with odoriferous bloffoms. The richnefs of the foil was here extremely remarkable \ for though I beheld many palms which the winds had thrown down *, yet mofl of them bent their fummits upwards from the ground, and fent forth new fhoots with furprifing luxuriance. Their branches were thc rcfort of various birds, adorned with the brightefl colours, which now and then flruck the ear with an unexpected fong not deflitute of harmony. Thc facility of the air, and the coolnefs of the breeze, contributed to make my fituation ftill more agreeable. Thc mind at reft, and lulled by this train of plcafing ideas, indulged a few fallacious reflections, which encreafed its happinefs at that inftant by reprcfenting mankind in a favourable light. Wc had now paflcd a fortnight amidfl a people who received us with thc flrongeft fymptoms of dif-trufl, and who prepared to repel every hoflile act with vigour. Our cool deliberate conduct, our moderation, and the conflant uniformity in all our proceedings, had conquered their jealous fears. They, who in all probability had never dealt with fuch a fct of inoifenfive, peaceable, and * The roots of the coco-palm are naturally extremely fliort, and confift of innumerable fibres ; but at Tanna thc foil, though rich and fertile, is fo extremely loofe, that it docs not require a great florm to overturn thc trees which grow in it. yet yet not defpicable men ; they who had been ufed to fee in every ilranger a bafe and treacherous enemy, now learnt from us to think more nobly of their fellow-creatures. Prudence, which accompanied the civilized voyagers, had no fooner fafcinatcd the inftinct of the favages, watchful for their iafcty, than another, no lefs powerful, awoke in their bread, and taught them to reiifh the fweets of fociety. They fliarcd the abundant produce of their foil with their new acquaintance, being no longer apprehcnfivc that thcy would take it by force. They permitted us to vifit them in their (hady rcccflcs, and we fat clown in their domeftic circles with that harmony which befits thc members of one great family. In a few days they began to feel a plcafure in our convcrfation, and a new difintcrcfted fentimcnt, of more than earthly mould, even fricndiliip, filled their heart. This rctrofpccT was honourable to human nature, as it made us the benefactors of a numerous race. I fell from hence into a reverie on thc pre-eminence of our civilized fociety, from which I was routed by thc found of approaching Reps. I turned about and law Dr. Sparrman, to whom I pointed out the profpeet and communicated my ideas. Wc agreed in our fentiments, and let out on our return, as the hour cf noon was approaching. Thc full native whom wc met ran out of thc way and hid himfelf in a bufh. Thc next was a woman at the entrance of a plantation, to whom wc appeared fo unexpectedly, that flic had no time to cfcapc. She She offered us a bafket full of yamboos, with a trembling avcvVt hand, and with all thc expreflions of fear ftrongly marked in her countenance. We were furprifed at this behaviour, and giving her fome fmall trifles proceeded in our way. A number of men flood behind the bufhes in and about the plantation, and made figns to us to walk on by waving their hands towards thc beach. At lafl, when we ftepped out of thc wood, we beheld two natives feated on thc grafs, holding one of their brethren dead in their arms. They pointed to a wound in his fide, which had been made by a muikct-ball, and with a mofl affecting look they told us " he is killed We looked haflily towards the flation of our people, and feeing them defcrted by the natives, hurried to join them, and learn thc particulars of this fhocking event. A fcntincl had been ported as ufual to keep the natives at a diftance from our party, but the failors took thc liberty of walking and trading freely among them. A native, who in all likelihood had never been on the beach before, came through the croud and began to walk acrofs thc fpace which our people occupied. Thc fentry puflicd him back among thc reft of his brethren, who were already accuflomcd to this injurious treatment, and acquicfccd in it. The new-comer, however, refufed to be controulcd on his own iftand by a (hanger ; he prepared once more to crofs the area, perhaps with no other motive at prefent than that • In tlivir languagcthcy cxprcfj this more ftrilcini;,ly by one word, nuuhm. of; of aliening his liberty of walking where he pleafed. Thc fen try drove him back once more, with a rude thruft fufll-cient to roufc a man much lefs irafcible than a favage. He, to vindicate his right, laid an arrow on his bow, which he " aimed at the aggreflbr; but the foldier inRantly levelled his mufket and fliot him dead. Captain Cook landed in the fame moment; he faw the native fall, and many of his countrymen running off to hide themfelves from the cruel and treacherous people who had polluted their ifland. He commanded thc foldier to be loaded with irons, and fent him on board the iliip. He next endeavoured to appeafc the natives, and the natural excellence of the human heart is fuch, that fcveral, efpccially thofe who came from the flat caflcrn hill, were pcrfuaded to flay, and once more to trufl thofe who had fo grievoufly violated thc laws of hof-pitality. Dr. Sparrman and myfelf were flruck with thc moderation of thc people, who had fullered us to pafs by them unmolefled, when they might caflly have taken a fevcre revenge for thc murder of their countryman. We went on board with captain Cook, greatly apprchenfivc for thc fafety of my father, who ft ill remained in the woods, accompanied by a Angle failor. We had, however, thc fatisfacTion to e him fafe about a quarter of an hour after, among the party of marines who were left, on thc beach to protect: fome of our watcr-caiks. A boat was immediately lent oif, rhich brought him on board. He had met with the fame good good treatment from the natives as ourfelves j they had AJ™ learnt to know our difpofition, and feemed to be too good tempered to confound the innocent with the guilty. Thus one dark and deteflable action effaced all the hopes with which I had flattered myfelf. The natives, inflead of looking upon us in a more favourable light than upon other flrangcrs, had reafon to deleft us much more, as we came to deftroy under the fpecious malk of friendftiip j and fome amongft us lamented that inftcad of making amends at this place for the many rafli acts which we had perpetrated at almoft every iiland in our courfe, we had wantonly made it the fcene of the grcatcft cruelty. Captain Cook refolved to punifh thc marine with the utmoft rigour for having tranf-greffed his pofnivc orders, according to which the choleric emotions of the favagc were to be repreffed with gcntlenefs, and prudently fullered to cool. But the officer who commanded on fliore, declared that he had not delivered thefe orders to thc fentry, but given him others which imported, that the Icait threat was to be puniflicd with immediate death. The foldier was therefore immediately cleared, and the officer's right to difpofc of thc lives of the natives re- • maincd uncontrovertcd. We came on Ihore again after dinner, where our people hauled the feme, and caught a few fifli, Thc natives on thc beach were very few in number, and chiefly without inns; thc murder of their countryman fccmcd to be for-Vol, II. X z gotten, august, gotten, or at leaft they feemed to have forgiven it in their hearts.' My father, with Dr. Sparrman and myfelf, walked about on the plain, and Riot fome birds. We only met a fmglc native, who at fight of us immediately Rruck into a different path, and walked very fwiftly to efcape us. Wc called to him, and making all the friendly figns which we could invent, at lad prevailed on him to turn back. He approached us with diflrufl and apprehcnfion marked in every gefturc; however, by making him fome prefents, his fears were removed, mutual confidence took place, and wc parted very good friends. It was late in the evening when we left thc fliore with all our people. Saturday 20. Early in thc morning feveral canoes of the natives got under fail, and went out of thc harbour. Their form rc-femblcd that of the canoes at thc Friendly Iflands, but with this difference, that thc workmanfhip was very inferior at Tanna. They have out-riggers to all their canoes, and fome may contain twenty people. Their fails were low triangular mats, of which thc broadcil part is uppcrmofl, and thc fharp angle below. A long piece of timber, hollowed out in the middle, forms thc bottom of the canoe, and upon this one or two planks are fixed, forming the two fides, by means of ropes of thc coco-nut fibres. Thefe ropes arc drawn through the round holes in fcveral knobs on the infide of thc planks, by which means the latter arc not pierced with a finglc hole. Their oars are ill-fhapcd, and and very clumfily made. It feems the fabrick of a boat is fo tedious an enterprizc to people who are in a continual Rate of warfare, that they cannot fpend much time in po-lifhing the timbers, and giving them that perfection and elegance, which is confpicuous in the manufactures of the Friendly Iilands. Thc wind being favourable to our departure at prefent, we weighed the anchor, and fet fail, after a Ray of fixtcen days. Thc ifland of Tanna is fltuated in i 90 %o S, lat. and 1 6<)° 38' E. long, and I believe does not exceed twenty-four leagues in circuit. A clayey fort of none, mixed with pieces of chalk-flones, forms mofl of the rocks which we examined. It is commonly of a brownifh or yellowifli colour, and lies in flrata nearly horizontal, about fix inches thick. In a few places wc obfervcd a foft black flonc, compofed of the allies and flicrls thrown up by thc volcano, mixed with clay, or with a fort of tripoly, which is called rottcn-flone by fome miners. This fubilancc fometimes forma alternate flrata with the black flonc. The fame volcanic land, mixed with vegetable mold, forms thc rich foil of this ifland, on which, as I have already mentioned, all vegetables thrive with uncommon luxuriance. The volcano which hums on the ifland, doubtlefs works a great change in its mineral productions, and might perhaps have alfordcd fome new observations, if thc jcaloufy of the natives had not continually prevented our examining it. Wc Z z 2 found found native fulphur in thc white earth which covers thc folfataras, from whence the aqueous ftrcams arife. Thc taftc of this earth was Rrongly aluminous, and it may perhaps be impregnated with particles of that fait. We like-wife met with a red bolus near thefe places, and obfervcd a white fclenitic flone among thc natives, which they wear as an ornament in thc cartilage between thc nollrils. Wc found fome fpecimens of itrong lavas ; but as wc could not come near thc volcano, wc never met with them in any quantity. The hot fprings have a kind of aflringcncy in the tafle, which gives us fome reafon to fufpect that they contain mineral particles ; but we had no opportunity to make experiments on board with the water which wc brought from thence. Thc only remark of any confequcncc, is a confirmation of a former well-known fact with regard to volcanos, viz. that thefc burning mountains arc not always the high eft in thc whole ridge, as in Peru and Sicily, but that they fometimes breakout in a fecondary ridge, and are even of an inconfidcrable height. As there arc inftanccs in the A<;orcs, and in thc Archipelago, that volcanic eruptions have forced their way through thc fea from thc unfathomable bottom, this circumflancc would be of lefs confequcncc, if it had not difagrccd with thc opinion of the great naturalill, M. dc IJufTbn. He aflcrts, that thc highcR mountains alone arc thc feat of volcanic fires, being defirous to remove thefc fires as far from the centre of thc earth as poflible. polliblc. Another obfervation which wc made fecms to prove, that thc eruptions commonly Riccecded after ihowcrs of rain j but fo fhort a (lay as ours is infufficient to give this remark its neceffary weight, though it coincides with the conjectures which have hitherto been made concerning thc caufes of fubtcrrancous fires. The vegetable productions of Tanna are very rich and various. The forefls arc filled with plants, of which a great number were new to us, and fome were fpecies hitherto known only in thc Eaft Indian iflands. The cultivated grounds likewife contain a great variety of plants which arc unknown in the Society and Friendly Iflands, and no lefs than forty different fpecies are cultivated. Among thc fpontancous plants, wc ought particularly to repeat thc mention of thc nutmeg, in defence of Quiros's veracity, who affcrts that he found it in Tierra del EfpiritU Santo, which doubtlcfs belongs to this group of iflands. Whether oranges are cultivated, or grow wild, is uncertain, as wc never met with a fmglc tree that bore them, but were obliged to content ourfelves with thc fruit, which the women fometimes fold to us. Thc animal creation in Tanna^is likewife numerous and beautiful. Shells indeed arc fcarcc upon thc coafl, and thc natives go in quell of them to other iflands, letting fome value alfo upon large mother of pearl fhclls. Fifh, on the contrary, arc numerous, and in great variety i with the feinc and hook wc caught mullet (mu!lus)} Brafilian pike, gariifh, dolphins,, dolphins, cavalhas, parrot-fifli, (ling-rays, toothlcfs-rayn, angel-fiih, iliarks, and Aicking-fifli, as well as feveral fpecies of mackrcl and mullet (muni). The woods contained a variety of birds, efpecially feveral forts of pigeons, parro-qucts, and fly-catchcrs. Among thc latter we found a fpecies which is likewife to be met with in New Zeeland. The Ccylancfe owl, a fpecies of creeper, a fort of duck, and a purple water-hen, were likewife fcen ; but all in general were remarkably fhy, which fecms to indicate their being purfued by the natives. Thc only tame fowls are the common cock and hen j and the only domeilic quadrupeds are hogs. Rats and bats, both which I have already mentioned, form the only two wild fpecies of quadrupeds. Tanna, thus well fupplicd by nature, and blcflcd with the mild influence of a tropical climate, contains a race of men in a much inferior ftatc of civilization, than tlie natives of thc Friendly and Society IRmds, who live nearly in the fame parallel, but to the caflward. I am oi Dphaioil, we rate the population of Tanna very high, when we fuppofc it to amount to twenty thoufand perfons. The plantations fecm to bear a fmall proportion to thc wild forcfls, wherever wc walked about in thc ifland, only excepting thc flat hill along thc caflcrn fliore of thc bay, which is indeed the richefl fpot 1 ever beheld in thc South Seas. The excellence of the foil, in Head of being an advantage to cultivation in its infant Aatc, is rather of dillc-rvice; as all kinds kinds of wild trees, bullies and weeds, arc with the greatefl A 1774* difficulty rooted out, and propagate with luxuriance, either from feeds, or from the roots. Cultivated vegetables, being of a more weakly and delicate nature, are eafily op--preffed and fuRbcated by the indigenous wild tribes, till repeated labours fucceed at lafl to bring them to a flourifhing flare. Thefe two circumflances together flrongly indicate, that the nation which inhabits Tanna is not very numerous, in proportion to the extent of that iiland. Thc people feem to live difperfed in fmall villages, confiding of a few families ; and their conflant cuflom of going armed is a certain fign that they formerly had, and probably flill have, wars with neighbouring iflandcrs, or quarrels amongd themfclves. If I might venture a conjecture, founded upon thc languages which wc heard fpoken in thc ifland, I fliould fuppofc that feveral tribes of different nations have peopled the ifland of Tanna, and may have difputcd thc poflcflion of thc ground with each other. Bcfidcs thc common language of the ifland, and bcfidcs a dialect of that of the friendly Iflands, wc collected fome words of a third language, chiefly current among thc inhabitants of its wcllcrn hills ; and we particularly obtained thc numerals of all thc three tongues, which arc indeed totally dillinct. In the common language of Tanna, wc met with two or three Words, which have a clear affinity with thc language of Mallicollo, and about thc fame number correfpond with fome fome words of the Malay ; but in general they are wholly unlike each other, and related to no other tongue that I know of. There is a flrong kind of afpiration, and a guttural found, in many words at Tanna, which arc, however, very fonorous and full of vowels, and therefore eafily pronounced. Thc fmall fize of the iflands in the South Sea, and the want of wild quadrupeds on them, have totally prevented their full fcttlcrs from living by thc chacc, thc ufual occupation of lavages. This confined fpace likewife did not allow them to breed numerous herds of domeftic animals, and obliged them to have reCpurfe to the cultivation of thc foil for their immediate fubflllcncc, especially when they could not fupport themfclves by fifhing. It has been thc falutary confequcncc of this early application to rural ceco-nomy, to facilitate civilization. All thc nations of tropical idands in the South Sea have fixed habitations, and it is only the degree of elegance and convenience which dillinguiihcs their different progrefs in culture. The people of Tanna do not appear, according to this flandard, to be far advanced ; their houfes arc mere fheds, which barely cover them from thc inclemency of thc weather. Drefs, another dillinguifhing character of civilization, is as yet entirely unknown to them ; and in the place of cleanlincfs, which every where renders mankind agreeable to each other, we obferved divers forts of paint anil greafc. They fecm however ever to be in great forwardnefs towards receiving a greater polifh. Their food is much varied by the arts of cookery which the women put in practice j they roafl or broil the yams and bananas; they Rcw the green leaves of a kind of fig, and of the okra (hibifcus efcukntus), they bake puddings made of a paRe of bananas and eddoes, containing a mixture of coco-nut kernel and leaves, and they likewife cat feveral forts of ripe fruits, without any preparation. Their poultry and hogs doubtlefs fupply them at times with animal food ; and from time to time they catch fifh. and birds, which very probably are reckoned dainties. If thc tafle for a variety of food becomes more general and violent, agriculture, arts, and manufactures will be carried on with greater fpirit, as far as they are fubfervient to the plcafurc of the palate, and one refinement flill muR give birth to another. Thc hcavieft talk becomes light and amufmg, as foon as it is undertaken from our own inclination, and for thc gratification of our fenfes. The domeftic life of the people of Tanna is not wholly deftitute of amufe-mcnts ; they arc at prefent indeed of a more fcrious turn than thc civilized nations of the friendly and Society Iflands, and the more favagc inhabitants of Mallicollo: bur, on the other hand, their mufic is in greater perfection than any in the South Sea ; and it cannot be difputcd that a predilection for harmonious founds implies great fcnfibility, and mufl prepare thc way for civilization. Agreeably to their prc-Vol. II. A a a fent fent fituation, their government is in a very imperfect Rate. Every village or family appears to be independent, and only to join with the reft when their common intereft is abfo-lately the fame i for example, when their country is threatened by the invafion of ftrangcrs. The aged or the flrong appear to have the grcateft influence among the multitude, and a diverfity of ranks feems to be unknown. The feparatc intereft of many fmall focieties muft frequently clafh, and of courfe involve them in feuds, which nourifh, in fome mca-furc, the principles of diflruft and revenge. This difficulty can only be remedied in procefs of time by the encreafc of population, which will oblige them to unite and to cftablifli a government on a more permanent bafis. The manufacture of arms, upon which they now fpend more time than on any other, will then employ their more numerous lcifure hours, and the fame elegance which is at prefent laviflicd on the arms at thc Friendly Iflands, may likewife at Tanna become the work of peace and mutual fafcty. How far their navigations to ncighbourings iflands may hatlcn that period is uncertain ; hut commerce is doubtlefs of infinite fcrvice to the encreafc of civilization. We know nothing of their religion, except thc fo-Icmn fong which we heard on the caflcrn point of the bay almoll every morning, from whence we fufpect that they have a place of worfhip in the woods thereabouts. Their folicitudc to prevent our acccf3 to that part fecms fecms to Arengthen this conjecture ; but in their general behaviour we did not take notice of the leaft religious act, nor of any thing that could be conflrued into fuperftition. The only circumflance which has fome appearance of owing its origin to a religious notion, is their taking up the prefents which we gave them, in a leaf j but as this was not a general cuflom, and almoR entirely neglected as foon as we became better acquainted, I cannot lay any Rrefs upon it. Civilization enlarges and unravels the idea of a Deity, which is not unknown to the favagc, though his more immediate wants prevent his giving attention to it. When the exigencies of nature are fupplicd with lefs trouble, and in a fhortcr time, the intellectual part expands and mounts to heaven to find fome occupation. It cannot be expected that during thc little Ray which we made at Tanna, and in the confined fituation to which the diflruft of thc natives reduced us at firft, we fliould have been able to collect more certain and inflructivc obfervations, or an exact detail of the whole extent of knowledge among the natives. Many articles, and efpccially all thc cufloms of domcflic life, remain entirely unknown to us. All nations practife certain ceremonies on folcmn occalions, fuch as marriages, births, or deaths \ and however fimple they may be at Tanna, they contribute to delineate the character of the people, of which our knowledge is but too imperfect. Thc vifits which we made to them on thc hill, gave us great room to believe A a a 2 them them hofpitablc, and open to fentiments of univerfal benevolence, as foon as the apprchcnfions for their fafety were pacified. We found them unjuft to their women, but not fo cruel and unnatural as the New Zeclandcrs; on thc contrary, it is rather to be fuppofed that they make gradual advances towards that kind difpofition which manifefts itfelf in the good treatment of thc fcx at thc friendly and Society Iflands. Upon other occafions wc had reafon to believe them brave and intrepid, and their conduct to us in the woods, after thc fatal murder of their countryman, was certainly generous. Their convcrfation fometimes afforded us an opportunity of admiring their fagacity. Their behaviour to us at our firfl arrival, and thc cuflom of going conftantly armed, arc evident marks of diflrufl j and thc cuflom of eating human flcfli, which their figns plainly indicated, is a proof that their paflions arc violent. The intcrcourfe with Etiropcans might perhaps have proved a benefit to them, and laid thc ground-work for a future progrefs in civilization, if their lafl rafli action had not effaced thofe favourable imprcfllons which thc natives had already conceived of them. European goods were in no repute; but as wc left a considerable number of nails and fome hatchets among them, thc durability of the metal will foon teach them to hold it in high cflccm, and it is not improbable that the ncKt fhip which may happen to vifit them, will find them fond of iron-ware, and eager to barter provifions for it. I laving Having once more put to fea, we ran to the caflward, in A[£ order to examine the ifland of Irronan. Our flay at Tanna had fupplied us only with three or four meals of frefli fifli, and a fmall quantity of yams, which we treahired up to fcrvc upon emergencies. Some of our crew were at this time afflicted with fevers, and received fmall portions of thofe roots, as fubftitutcs to the unwholefome bifcuit and pickled beef. In the evening we came near thc ifland of Irronan, which Sunday was found to lie about twelve leagues to the caft of Tanna, and confined of a high table-bill. We paflcd thc night in tacking, and thc next morning afecrtained the fituation of Anattom in 20° 3' fouth, and 1700 eafl. Its fize was inferior to that of Tanna, though wc kept at fuch a diflance that wc could not determine it with prccifion; but the height of its mountains was to all appearance nearly thc fame. Obferving no other iflands to the fouthward at prefent, wc fliaped our courfe along thc fouth-weft fliore of Tanna, which wc faw to great advantage on that fide, all the hills floping very gently from their fummits and inland ridges* As thc wind was very frefli and wholly in our favour, we Monda were on thc lee-fide of Irromanga the next morning. Captain Cook was rcfolvcd to fpend fome time in examining the wedern coafls of all this group of iflands, and particularly not to leave unexplored that to thc north of Mallicollo, which had been fcen by M. de Bougainville. This group being a 1774". being the weftcrnmoft hitherto known in thc South Pacific Ocean, captain Cook named the New Hebrides *, having acquired the right of giving this new collective name by difcovering ten large iflands, befides a number of fmallcr ones, all which had never been fcen before. Thc day was not yet fpenf when wc had already palled thc fouthern mores * of Sandwich Ifland. Its afpect on that fide was very beautiful, and its forefls fccmcd more rich and copious than we had formerly obferved them to the northward. Four fmall' iflands, of inconfidcrable height but finely wooded with the moil tufted trees, formed a harbour, which had thc appearance of being very convenient and fafc. uclibyi3. Running on all night with great fpecd, wc came in fight of thc Iflcs of Apcc, Ta-oom, and Ambrrym the next morning, and flood along the fouth well fide of Mallicollo, Thc peak of Pa-oom fccmcd at this diflance in one direction, to be entirely feparate from thc land before it, but it may nevertheless be connected with it by low land. Mallicollo furprifed U3 again with thc beauty and (hagginefs of its forefls, from whence vatl numbers of fmokes afcended, fuflicicnt to prove, that a great part of thefc forefls was inhabited. A fpacious bay foon opened to our view, with a fine beach ; and thc land about it, was to all appearance, extremely populous and fertile. Two fmall iflands were fltuated in this bay, and we fcaflcd our eyes * The Hebrides arc thc weftermuft iflands of Great Britain. on on thc richncfs and luxuriance of the profpecl, where the aucw. brighteft tints of verdure were profufely fpread. A great number of natives were obferved on the fhore, and two canoes put oR about noon, paddling towards us, but foon giving over thc chace, as wc failed on too fall for them. Beyond the point which included thc bay to thc north-weft, thc country loft fomcthing of its exuberant fertility, and was intcrfperfed with barren fpots, though we faw fmokes and habitations on thc higheft ridges : and at night thc mountains were illuminated in different places, by fcveral lines of fires, fome of which appeared to extend at leaft half a mile in length. Wc paffed thc north point of Mallicollo during night, and were a good way advanced in Bougainville's paRagc at day-break on the 24th. Mai- wednefd. a* licollo lies nearly N. N. W. and S. S. E. and the north point is in 1 50 jfo'S. and 1670 2 3' E. The land which forms the north fide of thc paffage, appeared very extenfive, high and mountainous, and a number of fmall iflands lay along its fouthern coaft, which were of a very moderate height, and covered with the fmcft forefls. The continual fair weather which attended this part of our navigation, made all thefe beautiful landfcapcs appear to the greatcft advantage ; and thc plcafure of contemplating a great variety of rich fccncrics, made us fome amends for the wretchednefs of our diet, which at prefent confiflcd of no other than the 1 hip's provifions. The* AJ-^-r The land which wc now faw to thc northward, fee ma to he the fame, which that great navigator, captain Quiros, called Ticrra Auflral del Efpiritu Santo, and which at that time, he fuppofed to make part of a continent. It is not improbable, that thc bay of Sr. Philip and St. Jago, where he anchored, is fltuated within the fmall iflands, which He before that great land. We really faw thc appearance of a bay within them, but did not flop to examine it, only giving thc fmall iflands the name of Bar-tholcmcw Iflcs, from thc day on which we faw them. We were now entertained once more with thc fight of thc iiland of Lepers, and Aurora which remained at a great: diftance to the cail of us. Our courfe continued to the north along thc callern fliore of Tierra del Efpiritu Santo, where wc Hill difcovercd new iflands, which were not fcen by M. de Bougainville. Thefe fmall iflands, as well as the main land, had ail a very fertile afpccT, being covered with fine forces, from whence numerous fmokes afcended, which were fo many figns of a great population. Hiving pafKd the night, (landing off and on, wc came abrcall of the northernmoft iiland, the next morning, and took notice Tlunilhy «5. that even thc large land extended no further northward. Moft of the fmall iflands were very long, narrow, and bluff at one end, but formed a low flat point, running out to thc northward. Their bluff part was commonly white like a chalk-cliff, and it was remarkable that we did not obferve any coconut nut trees among their forefls, which in fome places confuted chiefly of club-wood. As we paflcd by their northern extremity, they formed a very beautiful profpect, gradually opening from each other, and clear of the main land. Steering to thc weflward, we paflcd a projecting point on Tierra del Efpiritu Santo, and opened a moft fpacious bay of which thc entrance could be no lefs than five leagues wide. Thc depth of the bay was proportioned to the width. The mores on each fide feemed to run parallel for the fpace of feven leagues, at thc end of which thc bay terminates. A fine beach was fecn all along the bottom of it, and the land from thence, for many leagues within thc country, confided of hills of a very moderate height, and extenfivc populous vallics, which had thc appearance of fertility and plenty. We flood over to its weftern fliore where we faw many natives, efpecially towards 'he evening ; and likewife took notice of a canoe fimilar to thofe which we had obferved at Mallicollo ; it came oR, but the people in it kept it at a didance from t^c fhip, and would not come near, though wc gave them ever fo many invitations. The hill which formed thc weflern fliore was rather flccp, but however well inhabited, and covered with woods. A low flat point ran out from it a mile or two into the bay, and formed a kind of cove where we wiflicd to come to an anchor, as we were becalmed, and thc night was coming on. Wc founded fcveral times, but found no bottom with one Vol. IL B b b hundred Au'JutV, hundred and thirty, and one hundred and forty fathom, about a mile from the fliore. It was foon perfectly dark, and as we only difccrned the land by the lights which glimmered through the woods in different places, our fituation was beginning to be alarming, and we thought of hoifling out our boats to tow us oR, when a faint breeze afllfted us to get into thc middle of thc bay. Here we Friday *«. waited for day-light, and then continued to Rand in to thc fouth ward with light airs, which vanifhed towards noon. Two boats were fent after dinner to thc beach which runs along thc bottom of the bay, in order to reconnoitre whether there was any port, or a river, which wc could not difcern from on board, being Rill above a league and .i half diflant. In the mean while three canoes put ofTfrom thc fliore, with triangular fails, and approached thc fhip very fall. In each of them wc obfervcd four or five men, to whom we called, as foon as wc thought them within hearing. They were naked, and of thc fame colour as the Mailicollcfe ; but taller, and more floutly formed ; their hair fccmcd to be woolly, and their beards frizzled. Some of them had a bunch of feathers on the top of the head, and others wore a white fhell tied on thc fore-head. On their arms they had bracelets of fliell-work, exactly re-fembling thofe which we had obfervcd at M;illicollo, and round their middle they wore a narrow belt, from whence a long flip of matted-work, live inches broad, defended to the the knees before and behind. One of them had a fago- Aoovrr. leaf rolled round his head, forming a kind of airy cap. Their canoes were of indifferent workmanfhip like thofe of Mallicollo, and had out-riggers. We faw fome fpears in them, which had two or three prongs, and were doubtlefs intended as flfh-gigs but, bcftdes thefe, thc people had no arms whatfoevcr. They came fo near as to accept a prefent of medals, nails, Taheitce cloth, and red baize; and we could obferve them feizing upon the nails with peculiar cagcrnefs, which feems to indicate that they were not wholly unacquainted with them: Quiros perhaps might leave fome iron-ware on this ifland, which has thus acquired a high value among thc natives. They fattened a branch of the pepper-plant to the fame rope by which we had lowered down thc nails to them; but it appeared, that bcfidcs this emblem of friendfhip, they had nothing elfc to give. Wc fpokc a good deal to them, and they anfwercd from time to time, but neither party underflood the other. However, I thought of repeating the numerals in the dialect of thc friendly Iflands, and had fcarccly begun to count, when they immediately interrupted me, and counted very exactly till ten. We now pointed to thc fliore, and enquired for the name of thc ifland. They repeated thc word Fdnnoba, which in thc dialect: jufl mentioned fignifics land ; and called thc level dillrict, at the bottom of thc bay, Tal/a- B b b 2 onee, onet% at the fame time giving feveral names for different parts of the country on the fides; but we could not obtain a general name of thc ifland, which we therefore diflin-guifhed by that of Ticrra del Efpiritu Santo, as Quiros had done before. The languages of Mallicollo and Tanna, of which wc repeated fome words to thefe people, were either unknown to them, or we pronounced them too improperly to be underftood. When they faw our boats coming back from the fliore, they left us, it being then near funfet. Lieutenant Pickerfgill, who had thc command of our boats, re-* ported that he found no foundings before he came within two or three cable's lengths of thc Ihorc, but that the bottom was good at this diftance. He had found a fine river, which was deep enough for his boat at the entrance, and had landed on one of thc banks, whilft a great number of natives appeared in the bullies on the oppofitc fide. He made many figns of friendlhip, and called and beckoned to them to come over thc water ; but none of them venturing to accept thc invitation, he re-embarked, and returned to the ihip. Thc boats were hoiflcd in, and a breeze fpringing-up, afliflcd us to go gradually out of the bay. Captain Cook gave this bay the name of St. Philip and St. Iago j but it is flili fomewhat doubtful, whether it is the fame which Quiros has diftinguifhed by that name ; at lead the port of Vera Cruz, which according to that Spanifli navigator, has room room for a thoufand mips, is not to be found in it The auc72W, eaflern point of the entrance was named cape Quiros, and lies in 140 55' S. and \6j° 14' E. The weftern point extends fome what more to the northward, being in 140 38' S. and \66Q 52' E. and was named cape Cumberland. W.e were 01T this point early the next morning, and advanced flowly out of the bay, along the northern coaft of the ifland, being much detained by calms and light airs. Quiros had-great reafon to extol the beauty and fertility of this country ; it is indeed to appearance, one of the finefl: in the world. Its riches in vegetable productions would doubt-lefs have afforded the botanift an ample harveft of new plants, as next to New Zeeland it was the largeft land we had hitherto fcen, and had the advantage of having never been examined by other naturalifls. But the ftudy of nature was only made the fecondary object in this voyage, which, contrary to its original intent, was fo contrived in the execution, as to produce little more than a new track on the chart of the fouthern hemifphere. We were therefore obliged to look upon thofe moments, as peculiarly fortunate, when thc urgent wants of the crew, and the intereft of the fcicnccs, happened to coincide. A ftiark was caught in thc afternoon, and afforded us a frcfli meal. Wc found a fmall infect, of the monoculus * Sec Mr. Dilrymple's ufeful and judicious Collection of Voyages, vol. I. p. *32> 142, and 169. tribe. tribe, upon its back, which much refembled the fpecies in thc gills of falmons. A fcorpion was likewife diflodged from a fhelf, by the accidental removal of a book; fome of thefc creatures having been brought on board at the Society or Friendly Iflands with cluflcrs of bananas, on which they fometimes fit. Towards night we made another acquifi-tion ; it was a booby, of the fort which Linnccus callspclecanus fiber, which had rooflcd on thc main-yard. Thc day following a light air likewife retarded our pro-grefs, fo that we flowly examined thc weftern coaft of Ticrra del Efpiritu Santo. A variety of fifh were obferved fwimming along fide ; two albecores were caught, and a finglc dolphin was Rruck with thc harpoon, after many un-fucccfsful attempts. Thc land on this fide was high, and thc mountains very flcep. Many fires were obfervcd at night, probably in order to clear thc ground for plantations. Quiros having likewife fcen fires on this ifland, conjcclurcd as wc had done at firft, that they were fcux dejoyc, and illuminations, on account of thc arrival of fliips. A fouthcrly brce/c fpringing up, obliged us to tack oR and on, during thc 30th and 3 ill, when we reached the S. W. point of thc ifland, which wc named Cape Lifburne, and which is fltuated in I$° and 1 6 7 0 E. We flood once more into the paffage between Ticrra del Efpiritu Santo and Mallicollo, in order to complete the circuit of thc former. Here wc faw thc bay which M. dc Bougainville has cxprcRcd in his map, map, flickered by fome of the Bartholomew Iflands: it did august. not however appear to be of fuch great extent as it is there rcprcfented. About fix in the evening we put about, and flood to the S. S, W. from the New Hebrides, with a S. E. trade-wind. This group of iflands, which wc had now curforily examined in the fpace of forty-fix days, feems to be well worth the attention of future navigators, cfpecially if they fliould ever be fent out upon the liberal plan of making difcoverics in all the various branches of fcience. I will not pretend to fay that they would find great riches of filvcr and pearls, which Quiros was forced to fpeak of, in order to engage an intcreftcd, avaricious court, to fupport his great and fpiritcd undertakings. Thefe incitements are not ncccflary now a-days, when fcveral monarchs in Europe have convinced thc world that they can inRitutc voyages of difcovery, with no other view than the increafe of human knowledge, and thc improvement of mankind. The fums which fome of their predeceflors have lavifhed on parafites, have been found fuflicicnt to make an immenfe progrefs, nay, to produce a new and important revolution in the ftate of ihe feiences, which have ever required a trifling ex-pence to triumph over the numbcrlcfs obllacles that ignorance, envy, or fuperflation oppofed againfl them. Thc natural productions of the New Hebrides, cxclufivc of all kinds of artificial riches, are therefore in my opinion conflderablc enough to engage thc attention of future voyagers. Their volcanoes-, >774 volcanoes, their vegetables, and their inhabitants, would provide fuflicient employment for a Ferber *', a Solander, and many of thc hillorians of mankind. mtuy**.' We proceeded at prefent to the fouthward, and prepared to crofs the South Sea in its grcatcft breadth towards thc extremity of America j and though our crew were much weakened by living entirely upon fait meat in a hot climate, yet it was intended not to touch at any place by the way ; a project, which if it had been put in execution, would tloubtlefs have proved fatal to fome of them, whofe bad conftitution would not prompt them to fupport fuch an ah-flinence. Fortunately, after Handing on thc fame courfe for three days, wc fell in with a large land, which had never been vifited by any European navigator before, and which entirely altered thc plan of our proceedings for the remaining part of our flay in thc South Seas. * Mr, Ferber is the firfl: and only man of feience who has given ill a truly fcientifical and mincralogical account of Vcfuvius, which in worthy thc attention of nuturjliits. Sec his Letters to baron Born, London, 1776. C II A P. 1774. September* CHAP. III. Difcovery of New Caledonia.—Account af our jlay there,—Range along the coajl to our departure.—'Difcovery of Norfolk Ifland,— Return to New Zeeland. /"""AN the 4th of September, about feven in the morning, a Sunday* midfhipman at thc mail-head difcovered land to thc fouth, extending a great way to the weftward, and likewife to the fouth-caflward. It appeared to be very high, and its diftance from us was about eight leagues, being fcen through a haze, which made it appear farther off than it really was. We had at this time little wind, though fair weather, and therefore advanced (lowly towards this new and unexpected coaft. M. de Bougainville takes notice of meeting with a part of thc fea which was entirely fmooth *, and where fcveral pieces of wood and fruits floated pafl his fliip. This was nearly to the N, W. of thc land which wc now difcovercd, and which, as an able and intelligent navigator, he had conjectured to lie in that direction. * Sec his Voyage, Eng. odition, p. 303. Vol, II. Ccc A calm A calm, which happened after noon, entirely Hopped our progrefs towards the land, to which wc were now near enough to difcern fcveral fmokes, fufTicient to prove that it was inhabited. An ofliccr at the mail-head likewife enter-taincd us with thc hope of feeing another volcano, of which he faid he had fecn the fmoke burfling out. lie muR, however, have been deceived by appearances, as wc never afterwards faw any volcanic production upon this ifland. The point which had firfl been fcen, was named after the midfliipman, Cape Colnctt,'and is fltuated in 20° 30' fouth, and 1650 2 cafl. The whole land, appearing to be very cxtcnfive, was honoured with thc appellation of Nova Caledonia* Wc could not wait thc moment which fliould bring us acquainted with thc inhabitants of this land, but formed feveral conjectures relative to them. As wc had found the inhabitants of thc New Hebrides not only entirely diflinct: from the New Zeclandcrs, but alfo different amongrt themfclves, this new country offered itfclf to our eyes very opportunely in order to account for thc population of New Zeeland; but the fequcl convinced us that oUr ideas were very premature on this fubjccT, and that thc hiftory of the human fpecies in the South Seas cannot yet be unravelled with any degree of precifion. Before it was dark, three failing canoes were fcen coming off from thc fliore. Perhaps thc natives had taken our fhip to be a canoe, and upon this fuppolition had miflaken x\\z the diftance, for foon after they put about and returned, Scpr^K The land to the weftward fecmed to be divided into feveral iflands, and a-hcad of the fhip wc obferved fome breakers, which gave us reafon to conclude that a reef of coral fur-Toundcd the land at a confiderable diflance from it. Early the next morning, having a fine breeze, we flood M^uUy y. towards thc fliore, and foon difcovered the reef, which ran parallel to the coafl, at the diflance of three leagues. Within it we faw feveral canoes, each provided with two large fails, one behind the other, and fome natives on board of them employed in fifhing. A few other canoes put off from the fhore fome time after, and, pafling thc reef, came towards thc (hip. We called to them as foon as we could he heard, but they only looked at us, and foon returned thc way they came, making however no unfriendly gefturcs. Having obfervcd an entrance into thc reef we hoiftcd two boats our, which wc fent to found. In a little time they made thc flgnal of having found a convenient and fafc pafl*-age into thc fmooth water within thc reef, and we could obferve them converting upon very amicable terms with a canoe full of thc natives. Our ihip Rood into this fmooth bafon through a gap in the reef, which was about a mile in breadth. The natives laid fome of their canoes on both fides of the paflage, in a place where it was narrow, and beckoned to us to keep in the middle between, which gave us a very high opinion of their friendly and open difpofi- C e c 2 tkm tion. Our boats mil continued to proceed a-head of us, founding from rime to time, and making fignals of the depth of water. The face of thc country looked rather barren as we approached, and was covered with a dry whitifh grafs. Trees were very fparingly fcattercd on the mountains, and fecmed all to have white Items, and to re-fcmble willows ; nor was any kind of flirubberics or underwood to be fecn. Coming nearer, wc difcovercd a fmall border of flat land at the foot of thc hills, covered with green and tufted trees and bullies, among A which wc faw now and then a coco-nut palm and a banana-tree. Some houfes likewife appeared, which had thc fhape of conical or round bee-hives, with a hole for thc entrance, and exactly rcfcmblcd thc houfes which arc rcprcfentcd in he Jvlaire's and Schou ten's voyage, and which they faw on Cocos and Hoorne Ifland *. Lieutenant Pickcrfgill, who had been out in thc boat, now returned on board, and told us that thc people in the canoes had been extremely friendly towards him, and flic wed him one of their number whom they named 7'cd-l>oomay and flilcd their arcckec, or king. He gave him fome medals and other trifles, and likewife prcfented thc other people in thc canoe with thc fame; but they all delivered what they received immediately into the hands of Tca-booma. Mr. Fickerfgill brought on board four or five fifh, of which * Sec the phtci in Mr. Dairy mplc's Collection ©f Voyages, vul. II. thefc thefe good people had made him a prefent; but unfortunately they were already putrid and unfit to be eaten. We faw a fmall iflet in the harbour, furrounded by reefs and flioals, near which we let go our anchor in a good bottom. This was no fooner done than we were furrounded by about twenty canoes, each of which was provided with fails, and conflfled of two hulls, connected by a platform of boards, on which lay a heap of foil and allies, where the natives kept a conflant fire. Many of thefe people immediately came on board, placing perfect confidence in us, and one of them exchanged a yam for a fmall bit of red cloth. Wc fat down to dinner, and a number of the natives were our fpe5tators. They ate very heartily of the yams which wc had obtained at Tanna, but rcfufed to touch our fait pork, or to drink a drop of wine. Unfortunately, yams were fuch a rarity upon our table, that we could not conveniently part with them. They admired every thing that had a red colour, particularly red cloth or baize, but did not choofe to give us any thing in exchange. Their language, if we except thc word areckee and one or two more, had no affinity with any one of the various languages which we had heard in the South Sea before. This was thc more furprifing to us, as we had found one language, or at lead dialects of it, in all thc caflcrly iflands of the South Sea, as well as at New Zeeland. Thc people were likewife iliiTcrcnt from any we had fcen. They were very flout, tali, and and in general well proportioned ; their features mild, their beards and hair black and ftrongly frizzled, fo as to be al-nioft woolly in fome individuals, and their general colour fwarthy or a dark chefnut brown, nearly the fame with that of the people of Tanna. After dinner wc proceeded to a flat point on thc fliore, where wc faw a great croud of the natives afifembled. Two boats filled with people went on this expedition, and among them were twelve marines, well armed. Wc landed without the lead oppofition among thc natives, fome of whom were armed, but others entirely dcfcncclcfs. Our marines drew up in a line, whilfl we went up and down before them, and defired the na'ivcs to give us fome room, to which they readily confentcd. A handfomc young man, who, according to Mr. Pickerfgill, was the chief Tca-booma, held a fpeech almoll as foon as wc had Hepped afhorc. Previous to this, another of the natives pronounced fome words very loud, upon which a general fdence immediately enfucd. The fpeech was very moderate, though ferious, and from time to time delivered in a loud tone. S -mctimcs the orator fecmed to propofe feveral qu eft ion 8, which were alwavs anfwered by fome old men in thc croud, and thc whole laftcd two or three minutes. A little while after another chief arrived, who likewife held a fpeech of the fame nature to us ; after which wc mixed freely in the croud, and had an opportunity of examining their arms and ornament9. Our Our principal enquiry, which we expreffcd by figns, was whether they had any frefli water, upon which fome pointed to the weft, but the grcatefl number to the eaftward. Their perfons were tall and wholly of that character which I obferved in thofe who came on board at firfl. Many of them, howTevcr, had prodigious thick legs and arms, which feemed to be affected by a kind of leprofy. They all went naked, only tying a firing round thc middle, and another round the neck. A little piece of brown cloth, made of the bark of a fig-tree, which is fometimes tucked up to the belt, and fometimes pendulous, fearccly deferves the name of a covering; it fecms indeed not to be intended for a veil, any more than thc contrivance of thc Mailicollcfe, and in thc eyes of Europeans would rather be reckoned obfeene than decent. Every inhabitant of this ifland, therefore, like thc natives of Tanna and Mallicollo, was an ambulant figure of thc Roman Garden-God. The ideas of modefty arc different in every country, and change in different periods o£ time. Where all men go naked, for inflance on New Holland cuflom familiarizes them to each other's eyes, as much as if they went wholly muffled up in garments. The-fafh ion able die lies and fuits of armour which were worn in thc fifteenth and fixtccnth century at every European court, would at prefent be looked upon as the moR indecent that • The native! of New Holland, of both fcxes, go entirely naked, and have© wot the Ic.tft covering from motives of fliumc. Sec Iljwkefwortb, vol. III. cars can poiRbly be contrived ; and yet who will dare to afTert that there was lefs modefly in the world at that age than in this, or defame the virtuous characters of the invincible knights of that time, fo famous for chaflity, honour, and gallantry,—becaufe they wore breeches made after the fafhions of thc times f ? The fame piece of cloth, which the natives of New Caledonia have made fo confpicuous, is fometimes of fuch a length, that the extremity is faflcned to the firing round the neck. To this firing they alfo hang fmall round beads, of a pale green nephritic Rone, which is of thc fame fpecies with that of Tanna, and nearly related to that of New Zeeland. On their heads many among them wear black cylindrical caps, made of a very coarfe matted work, and entirely open at both ends, being only a kind of fliR cloth, formed by a longitudinal feam into a cylinder, which has fome rclcmblancc to thc cap of an huflar. Thc chiefs had ornamented theirs with many fmall red plumes, and at the top with long black cock's feathers. In their cars, of which thc extremity is ilrctchcd to a great length, and thc whole cartilage cut out, as at Eaflcr Iiland, they hang great numbers of tortoife-fheil rings, as is cuflom ary at Tanna, and fometimes place a fcroll, made of a fugar-canc leaf, in thc f In thc irfcnals at thc Tov/cr of Loudon may be fcen many complete fuits of armour, which will better explain my meaning hole. hole. Their arms were clubs, fpears and flings. The for- ^ffly^ mcr were of different fhapcs and woods, but in general rather fliort, feldom exceeding three feet in length, and re-fcmbling that fort of the clubs of Tanna, which is made of thc cafuarina. Their ends are cut out in ftars and various knobs, and fome are formed almoR like a fcythe or pickaxe, with a very fliort handle. Their fpears are fifteen or twenty feet long, and black, or blackened over; and the befl of them, fomcwhat before the middle, have a prominence, which is carved fo as to bear a rude refemblance to a human face. They throw them by the afliftance of fuch fhort cords, knobbed at one end and looped at the other, as arc ufual at Tanna, and which feamen call beckcts. Thofe of New Caledonia were of fuperior workmanfhip, and con-taincd a quantity of red wool, which we fliould have taken for thc covering of a new fort of animal, if wc had not formerly fcen the vampyre, or great Indian bat, from whence it was taken. Their lafl weapons were flings, for hows and arrows were wholly unknown to them. Thefe flings confided of a flender round cord, no thicker than a packthread, which had a tafTel at one end, and a loop at the other end and in the middle. Thc flones which they ufed were oblong, and pointed at each end, being made of a fbft and unctuous foap-rock (fmccTttes), which could eafily be rubbed into that fliapc. Thefc exactly fitted thc loop in thc middle of thc fling, and were kept in a wallet or pocket Vol. 11. D d d of of coarfe cloth, ftrongly woven, of a kind of grafs, which was tied on about the middle. Their fliape gives them x Rriking refemblance to the glandcs phimbea of the Romans * Captain Cook being defirous to find a watering-place, foon returned to the boats, and proceeded along fhore to the eaflward, where he faw the whole coaft lined with mangroves, growing in (hallow water, and in fwampy or marfhy ground. The natives on the beach, feeing us put off, difperfed immediately, and went to their fcveral homes. Two of them were fecn walking with great difficulty along the mangroves ; for which reafon we rowed towards them, and took them into the boat. After wc had proceeded near two miles, thefe two men pointed out an entrance between thc mangroves, which looked like a river. As it was deep enough for our boats, we went in, and foon perceived, that, after fcveral turns and windings, it led to a few habitations. In our way wc faw fome of the natives (landing on thc fhorc, and a flock of wild ducks pafling over our heads at the fame time. I killed one of them, which one of our friends in the boat was fo defirous of poflefling, that we readily made him a prefent of it. He, as well as thofe on fliore, expreffed fome admiration on obferving the cflecT of our fire-arms, but did not betray the fmallcfl fymptom of fear. Before wc reached their houfes, wc re- » Sec Count Caylus's Antiquit. III. 327. Tab. XCII. lie. 3. pcatcd pcatcd die experiment, much to their fatisfacTion, and were Sep^ very well plcafed to give them an idea of our power, by fuch innocent means. At lafl, the river being not above twelve yards wide, we landed on its banks, which were raffed about two feet above the water, it being near the flood tide. Here we found a few fmall families, with their wives and children, who all came familiarly about us, without the lcaft marks of diflruft or ill-will. Thc wo' men were in general of a dark chefnut, or fometimes mahogany brown colour j their flaturc was middle fized, fome being rather tall, and their whole form very flour, and fomcwhat clumfy. Their drefs was thc mofl disfiguring that can be imagined, and gave them a thick fquat fliape. It was a fliort petticoat or fringe, confiding of filaments or little cords about eight inches long, which were fattened to a very long firing, which they had tied feveral times round thc waifl. Thc filaments or little ropes therefore lay above cadi other in fcveral layers, forming a kind of thick thatch all round thc body, which did not cover above a third part of the thigh. Thefe filaments were fometimes dyed black ; but frequently thofe on thc outfide only were of that colour, whilfl the red had a dirty flraw-colour. They wore fhtlh, ear-rings, and bits of nephritic flones, like thc men ; and fome had three black lines longitudinally from the under-lip to the chin, which had been punclurctl by the fame methods pracTifed at thc friendly * D d d z and and Society Iflands. Their features were coarfc, but ex-prefled great good-nature. The forehead in general was high, the nofe broad and flat at the root, and the eyes rather fmall. Their cheek-bones were very prominent, and the cheeks commonly plump. Their hair was frizzled, and often cut fliort, as among the natives of the Society and Friendly Iflands. The huts, which flood about ten yards from the banks of the river, on a little rifing, were of a conical fhape, about ten feet high, but not pointed at the top. Their innermofl ikcleton confiflcd of fcveral poles placed nearly upright, and connected together by twifted flicks like hurdles. Over thefc we found a covering of matts from top to bottom, and upon that a thick and well-contrived thatch of Araw. What little light there is in thefe houfes, comes in through thc entrance, which is a hole about four fect high ; fo that thc inhabitants mull ftoop to go in or out. We found them full of fmoke, and faw a heap of aflies in thc entrance ; and concluded that they were obliged to light fires, in order to drive away the mofquitocs, which muft infefl thc fwamps in thc neighbourhood ; though this day being rather cool, we faw but few. The huts were furrounded by a fmall number of coco-palms, deflitute of fruit, fome fugar-canes, bananas, and eddoes, which thc natives had fupplicd with water by fcveral little trenches. Some of the eddocs were aftually fet under water, in thc fame manner as is cuflomary through* throughout the South Sea Iflands, The whole plantation, however, had a very fcanty appearance, and feemed to be infufficient to afford nourifhment to the inhabitants throughout the year. We entirely miffed that variety of fruits, which we had hitherto met with in the tropical iflands, and naturally recollccTcd the poverty of thc inhabitants of Eafter Iiland, above whom it appeared, that the people before us enjoyed but few advantages. A native named Hcebai, fecmed to be thc principal man among the few families which were here affembled ; we made him fome prefents, and walked about on thc banks of the river towards thc mangroves, meeting with a new plant by the way. Towards the hills, of which the firfl: rifings were at the diftance of about two miles, thc country looked extremely dreary j here and there indeed, we faw a few trees, and fmall cultivated fpots, but they appeared to be loR on thc great extent of barren and unprofitable country, which rcfembled our moors more than any thing clfe. Upon a large heap of embers and afhes before the huts, lay a round earthen pot, which could hold four or five gallons. It was very clumfdy fhaped, had a large belly, and confided of a reddifh fubdance, which was totally covered with foot both without and within. After a fliort day with thc good people of this fpot, whofe provifions were doubtlcfs fo fcanty, that they could not fparc any for us, we reimbarked in our boats. The natives came along fide early the next morning morning in their canoes. They had fires upon every canoeT having laid fome flones and allies on the platform, to prevent any accident. There were fome women in the boats, who did not come into thc fliip, but many of the men came in without invitation, and began to fell their arms for pieces of Taheitee cloth. The boats were fent afliore again in fcarch of a nearer watering-place. We landed at the fame point, where we had made our firfl landing the day before. Here wc met with a few inhabitants, who on our making enquiry forfrcfli-watcr, pointed to thc weflward where wc had not yet been. We walked along the beach, which was here fandy, and bounded by a fine wild flirubbery : wc foon came to a hut, from whence a number of plantations extended to the back of the bcachand wild wood. Wc rambled into thc country, and came to a canal that watered this plantation, but of which the water was very brackifli. From hence however, wc ran immediately to ancminencc near us, where thc nature of thc country appeared evidently changed. Thc plain was covered with a thin llratum of vegetable foil, which being very poor was manured in thc plantations with broken fliclls and corals. The eminence on the contrary was a rocky ground, con-filling of large pieces of quartz and glimmer (mica*). Here • This kind of rock is called gtjlell-jlnn by thc German mincralogifls. Sec Mr. Fcrbcr's Letters to Baron Norn, Knglifh edition, 8vo. 1776, p. 327. Thil name is particularly applied to thai ldnd of rock, whcic the mica or glimmer lies in frequent and horizontal it rata. grew grew a quantity of dry graffes, about two or three feet high, very thin in mofl places j and at thc diflance of fifteen or twenty yards afunder, wc faw large trees black at the root, but with a bark perfectly white and loofc, and having narrow long leaves like our willows. They were of thc fort which Linnc calls Melaleuca leucadendra, and Rumphius arbor albat who fays that the natives of the Moluccas make thc oil of cayputi, from thc leaves, which arc indeed extremely fragrant and aromatic f. Not the lead flirub was to be fcen on this eminence, and thc trees did not intercept thc diftant profpecl. Wc difcerned from hence a line of tufted trees and fhrubberies, which extended from thc fca-fide towards the mountains, and immediately concluded that they flood on the banks of a rivulet. We walked pafl a few other plantations, and foon found thc rivulet we fought, which about two hundred yards from the fea, was unmixed with falt-watcr, fo that we could fdl our calks without much trouble. Here we faw thc chief Tcabooma, and gave him feveral medals and other trifles, for which he made us a prefent of a fling, and fome clubs. The banks of thc river were lined with mangroves, beyond, which a few other forts of plants and trees occupied a fpace of fifteen or twenty feer, which had a layer of vegetable mould, charged with nutritive moiilurc, and covered with a green bed of graffes, where thc eye gladly repofed t Herb, amboia. vol. II. T. 16, 17. p. 72. Kelt SfPTE7i«*. itfelf after viewing a parched profpccT. The border of flirubberies and wild trees which lined the fea fliore, was the moft advantageous to us as naturalifls; here wc met with fome unknown plants, and faw a great variety of birds of different clafles, which were for the grcatcft part entirely new. But the character of thc inhabitants, and their friendly, inoflcnfivc behaviour towards us, gave us greater plcafurc than all the refl. Wc found their numbers very inconfiderablc, and their habitations very thinly fcat-tcrcd. They commonly had built two or three houfes near each other, under a group of very lofty fig-trees, of which thc branches were fo clofely entwined, that thc fky was fcarcely vifiblc through thc foliage, and thc huts were involved in a perpetual cool fliadc. They had another advantage b: fides, from this plcafant fituation ; for numbers of birds continually twittered in the tufted tops of thc tree, and hid themfclves from the fcorching beams of the fun. Thc wild note of fome fpecies of creepers was very agreeable, and conveyed a fcnfiblc plcafurc to every one who delighted in this kind of artlcfs harmony. The inhabitants themfelves were commonly fcated at the foot of thefe trees, which had this remarkable quality, that they l'hot long roots from the upper part of the ftem, perfectly round, as if they had been made by a turner, into thc ground, ten, fifteen, and twenty feet from the tree, and formed a moft exact (trait line, being extremely claftic, and as tenfe as as a bow-flring prepared for action. The bark, of thefe trees feems to be the fubftance of which they make thofe little bits of cloth, fo remarkable in their drefs. They communicated a number of words of their language to us, which had no affinity with thofe we had learnt before in other iflands; a circumflance fuflicicnt to difcourage thc grcatcft and mofl: indefatigable gencalogift. Their temper feemed to be as indolent, as it was good-natured and harm-lefs. It was very rare indeed, that any one of them chofe to follow us on our rambles ; if wc paflcd by their huts, and talked to them, they anfwered us, but if wc went on without addrcfling them, they took no farther notice of us. The women were rather more curious, and fometimes flrayed in thc bufhes to obferve us, but would not venture to come near, except in thc prcfencc of the men. Wc fhot a number of birds, without giving the lcafl offence by this amufemcnt to any of thc natives j on thc contrary, when wc came near their houfes, thc young men readily pointed them out to us. It appeared that they had very little occupation at this time of thc year, having now prepared thc ground, and planted roots and bananas, of which they expected a new crop thc enfuing fummcr. 4 Perhaps from thc fame reafon, they were at prefent more unable than at any other time, to part with their provifions to us, though their infufpicious, open difpofition, gave us thc grcatcft room to believe that they were not flrangcrs to Vol. II. E e c the the principles of hofpitality, which render all thc natives of the South Sea fo amiable in the eyes of their vifitors. Wc walked about till noon, when the boats returned on board with a load of water, having only left a fmall party with the calks ; a precaution, which the honcfty of the natives perhaps did not render ncceiTary. Mr. Wales, our allronomer, had in the meanwhile fixed fome inflruments on thc little fandy iilct, in order to obferve an eclipfe of the fun, which happened this day. Thc captain joined him there, and from this, as well as fubfequent obfervations, they deduced thc fituation of this little ifland to be in 20° 1 $ S. and 1 640 40' E. In thc evening wc went on fhorc with captain Cook to thc watering-place. The cayputi-trecs (mclakuca), of which wc found fcveral in flower, had a loofe bark, which in many places burft off from the wood, and concealed within it beetles, ants, fpidcrs, lizards, and fcorpions. Wc thought WC obfervcd quails among thc tall dry grades this day, but could not be certain j wc walked about till funfct,on the hillocks ncarefl to our watering-place, where wc faw but very few natives, who fold fome of their arms to us. Wc endeavoured to represent to them that wc flood in need of provifions, but they lent a deaf car to every hint of that kind, fince it was plain they had barely enough for their own fubflflencc. Thc foil of New Caledonia is indeed very unfit for for agriculture, and poorly rewards the labours which the natives bellow upon it. Early in the morning, before any natives come on board, we fent a boat to the offing with thc body of one of our feamcn, who had acted as butcher on board the fhip, but died the day before, of a hurt which he had received on the 5 th of September by a fall. He was a laborious man, indefatigable in his employment, though he feemed to be near fixty years old. This was the third man whom we loR on this voyage, one having been drowned, and another dying of a dropfy. Wc fet out with thc captain, thc mailer, two midfliip-mcn, and three failors, after breakfafl, and afcended thc hills from whence thc rivulet fprung, at which wc watered. Wc found a convenient path all the way, though the mountain was very flccp in fome places. The rock was every where of the fame nature; it was always a mixture of a kind of glimmer and quartz, more or lefs tinged with an ochrcous Or rcddifli colour, which owed its origin to particles of iron. Wc found the cayputi trees all thc way up; but as we came higher, wc met with various forts of ihrubs, though thinly ft altered, which offered new fpecies of flow-crs to our eyes. The higher we came, thc more thc trees dwindled into fhrubs, except in a few deep glens, where we obferved fome fmall rills gufhing down, which fertilized the ground fo much, that a variety of plants fliot up in E e c 2 them ptsmbki. tnem vvith luxuriance. Wc had not afcended an hour, when we met a body of near two hundred men of the natives defccnding, moR of them well armed, who feemed to have come on purpofe to fee the flrangers. The greater part turned back with us^ feeing us advance towards the fummit of the hill. Being near the fummit, wc flopped to look at fome flakes placed here and there in thc ground, with dry branches of trees and dry grades laid acrofs them. Thc natives told us they buried their dead on this hill, and that thc flakes indicated thc places where every one was interred. In thc meanwhile, captain Cook, with thc mailer, had reached the fummit of thc hill, from whence he beheld thc fea on thc fouth fide, at no greater diflance from thc mountains than that to thc north. A plain appeared on that fide watered by various rivulets, and fome plantations could be difecrned; but upon the whole, no material difference was obfervcd between thc two fides of thc ridge. The natives feeing us very dry, and tired by the immenfe heat of thc day, brought us fome fugar-canes j though I cannot conceive where they found them fo foon, as we could not fee, or indeed fuppofc, any growing in the neighbourhood. Thc tops of the hills were almoft entirely barren, but flill confuted of thc fame kind of flonc, which fecms to indicate, that New Caledonia contains fome valuable minerals. Their height, from the time which the afcent took up, and all other circumftanccs confidercd, appears not to be very con- eonflderable, and mud be inferior to the height of the Table- R*V*L mountain at the Cape of Good Hope, which, according to abbe la Caille *, is faid to be 3 35° Rbinland feet high. We defcended by a different path, which was more Reep and rugged than the firft, but likewife brought us down on thc plain in a much fliortcr time. We found a number of plantations on that part of the plain where wc came down, which was a confidcrablc way to the wcRward of our watering-place. A few habitations of thc natives were fltuated in the mid (I of thefc cultivated fpots, without being fheltcrcd againfl thc fun. Their inhabitants came out, and offered us fome cups full of frcfli water, which the heat rendered very acceptable. This friendly action is fully fuflicient to prove that thc people have a kind and hofpitablc difpofition, which nothing but their indigence, and their ungrateful foil, prevented them from manifesting in a more flriking manner. In our polifhcd regions wc fometimes fee real gencrofity fliinc through thc cracks of a ruinous cottage, while it faintly glimmers in fumptuous palaces. Having rejoined our watering party, we returned on board, where wc found a number of natives, who vifitcd every p4lit of the fhip, and difpofed of their clubs, fpcars, anu ornaments. One among them was prodigiouily tall, and fecmed at Icafl fuc feet five inches hi^h, and thc black Sec his Voyage, p. 237. cylindrical: smiim* cylindrical cap which he wore, made him appear at lead eight inches higher. Many of thefe caps were ornamented with the feathers of the Ceylonefe owl, which is alfo to be met with here and in the woods of Tanna ; and it wras almoft a general cuRom to tie the fling round them, letting the taiTel hang down on thc Rioulder. Fern leaves were likewife no uncommon ornament about thefe caps, which the natives fold us for Taheitce cloth, though they fet a great value upon them. The number of ear-rings, which many of them wore, was remarkable; wc obfervcd one who had no lefs than eighteen, made of tortoife-fliell, an inch in diameter, and a quarter of an inch in breadth. They brought a mufical inflrumcnt, a kind of whittle, for fale this day. It was a little polifhcd piece of brown wood, about two inches long, fhaped like a bell, though apparently folid, with a rope fixed at thc fmall end. Two holes were made in it near the bafe, and another near the infertion of the rope, all which had fome communication with each other, and by blowing in thc uppcrmoit, a thrill found, like whiffling, was formed at thc other. Bcfidcs this, wc never obfervcd any inflrument among them which had the lead relation to mufic. They had now begun to take our large fpike-nails ; but feeing fome round iron bolts in the fhip, to which fome of the cordage is fattened (commonly called bclaying-pins), they conftantly {hewed a great defire of poilcfling them. They did not attempt to take thc Icall trifle trifle by flealth, behaving with the ftricteft honcfty and pro- SErS4ber. priety on board. Many came fwimming from the fhore, which was better than a mile off, holding their piece of brown cloth out of the water with one hand, whilfl with thc other they moved forwards, and brought with them a fpear, or a club, though not of the fort which is made of cafuarina wood, that being too heavy to be conveyed in fuch a manner. Wc embarked in a boat after dinner, and landed near two miles to the weft of our watering-place, on a point which formed thc bay where our fhip lay at anchor. Here captain Cook took fome bearings, whilft we purfued our refearcb.es. Immediately on the beach we found a large irregular mafs of rock, not lefs than a cube of ten feet, which confiftcd of a clofe-grained horn-Rone, fpeckled full of garnets, fomcwhat bigger than pins heads. This difcovery confirmed what we had before conjectured, viz. that there was fome probability of meeting with rich and ufeful minerals upon this ifland, which, as far as we faw, dif-tinguifhed itfelf from all thofe wc had hitherto examined in thc South Seas, in being entirely deftitute of volcanic productions, from this rock we flruck into the woods which lined the fhorc, and which happened to be very thick in this part to a fliort diftance on all fides. Here we found a few young bread-fruit-trees, not yet fufliciently grown to bear fruit j but they fccmcd to have come up without without culture, and were perhaps indigenous wild trees of the country. We likewife met with a new fpecies of paf-fion-nower, which was chiefly extraordinary on this account, that all its fpecies formerly known to thc learned world were confined to America. I feparatcd from my company during this fcarch, and came into a hollow fandy way, which was hung with bindweeds and fweet-fcented flarubs on both fides, and fecmed to have been the bed of a torrent or rivulet. It brought me to a group of two or three huts, furrounded by coco-nut trees. Before one of them I obferved a man featcd with a little girl of eight or ten years old on his lap, and examining her head. He was fomcwhat furprifed at fight of me, but prefently recovering his tranquillity, proceeded in his occupation. He had a piece of fine tranfparcnt quartz in his hand, which having a very (harp edge, he made ufe of inflcad of fciffars to cut thc girl's hair. 1 made her a prefent of fome black heads, and alio gave him a few, with which he fccmcd much plcafed. I now went on to the other huts, and found two placed fo near together, as to inclofc an area of about ten feet fquare, which was partly fhut in with a fence. Here I found three women, one middle-aged, and the others fomcwhat younger, who made a fire under one of thofe large earthen pots which I have already mentioned. As foon as they faw mc, they made figns that I fliould leave them } however, being defirous to fee their method of cooking. ing, I came in, and faw that they had fluffed the pot full of dry graffes and green leaves, in which they had wrapped up a few fmall yams. Thefe roots are therefore in a manner baked in this pot, or undergo the fame operation which the natives of Taheitee perform by burying them under a heap of earth, among heated flones. It was with difficulty they would give me time to intrude fo far; they repeated their figns that I fhould go away, and pointing to the huts, moved their fingers feveral times under their throat; which I interpreted, that if they were obferved to be thus alone with a Rranger, they would be choaked or killed. I left them after they had made this gefture, and peeped into the huts, which I found quite empty. Returning into the wood, I met Dr. Sparrman j and we went to the women again, in order to look at their work once more, and to be convinced whether I had properly interpreted their figns, or whether they had only fome particular objection to my appearance. We found them in the fame place, and walking up to them, immediately made them a prefent of fome beads, which they accepted with great exprcffions of joy ; but at the fame time they repeated thc geftures which they bad made when I came alone, and looked at us as if they would add entreaties to their figns, with which we immediately complied, and retired. Wc met the reft of our company fome time after, and being athiifl, afked thc man who cut his daughter's hair for a little water. He flic wed Vol. II. t f f us us a tree, on which he had hung about a dozen cocomuc {hells, filled with frefh water, that element being to all appearance rather fcarce in the country. We emptied fome of thefe cups, and made him a prefent of a bit of Taheitee cloth, with which he feemed to be well plcafed. From hence we proceeded to the watering place, fome by land, and fome in the boat. Wc fliot fome curious birds by the way, with which thc country abounds j and among the refl a fpecies of crow, which is common in Europe. At the watering place we found a confidcrable number of natives, fome of whom, for a little rag of Taheitce cloth, carried our people into and out of their boats about forty yards, the water being too fliallow for boats at that diflance from thc fliore. Here wc alfo faw fome women, who, far from exprefling any dread of thc jcaloufy of their men, came among the croud, and lbmctimcs amufed themfclves in encouraging the propofals of our fcamcn. They commonly beckoned them to come into the bullies, but as foon as thc failors followed, they gave them the flip, and ran with fuch agility, that they could not be overtaken. Thus they took plcafurc in difappointing their new adorers, and laughed very heartily as often as they had put their little arts in practice. There was not a fmglc inflancc, during our flay upon thc ifland, of their ever having condcfccndcd to permit any indecent familiarity from an European ; an innocent recreation, which flicwed them good humoured, and and not deftitute of ingenuity, was what they fliicTly adhered to. The captain's clerk purchafed a fifli on fliore, for a piece of Taheitee cloth, from one of the natives, who had killed it with a fpear. As foon as he came on board, he fent it to the captain ; and as I found it to be a new fpecies, I made a drawing and defcription of it. It was of the genus, by Linnaeus named tetraodon, of which feveral fpecies arc reckoned poifonous. We hinted this circumftance to cap. tain Cook, efpecially as the ugly fhape, and large head of the fifh, were greatly in its disfavour; but he told us he had eaten this identical fort of fifh on the coaft of New Holland, during his former voyage, without the lead bad confcqucnccs. It was accordingly preferved for the next day, and wc fat down very chearful, in expectation of a frefli meal. At fupper the liver of this fifli was ferved up, which was very large and oily. For this reafon the captain, my father, and myfelf eat only a morfel or two of it, and thought it had no other bad taftc, than what arofe from thc oil. Our mcflinatc, Dr. Sparrman, fortunately did not touch it. We went to bed upon this fomcwhat early, intending to rcvifit the fliore at day break ; but at three o clock in the morning, my father awaking, found himfelf extremely giddy, and his hands and feet entirely, as it were, benumbed. He got up, and was fcarccly able to (land. He came into thc flceragc, where Dr. Sparrman flept, and Iff- ac^ 1774- September, acquainted him with his illnefs. Captain Cook's apartment was only feparated by a thin partition: he was awake, and feeling the fame fymptoms of which he heard my father complain, got out of bed, and found himfelf unable to walk without holding. I was in the fame fituation, upon being awakened by my father, and crawled into the cabin* where the furgeon, Mr. Patton, immediately appeared, to aflift us. Our diforder had indeed a moR ferious afpectj the blood had left our cheeks, all our limbs were benumbed, and without fenfation, and a great degree of languor and oppreflion had taken place. Emetics were adminiflered,. which gave my father and myfelf fome relief, but had not much effect upon captain Cook. We took a fudorific after this, and went to bed agaim In the morning, about eight, we got up, very giddy and, heavy; however I found myfelf well enough to pafs thc whole morning in fketching the outlines of fix or eight plants, and fome birds, which we had collected on our former cxcurfions. Dr. Sparrman, in the mean while, went on fliore to collect farther fupplics. Towards noon my father endeavoured to converfe with fome of the natives who. came into thc fliip. At fight of the fifli, which was bun2-under the half-deck, they made figns that it occafioncd pain, intheftomach, and by leaning their heads upononehand, and. (hutting their eyes, expreffed that it caufed flecp and drow-(inefs, and death. Still thinking they might only make thefc thefe geftures in order to obtain the fifh, we offered it to SlrT\ them, but they refufed it with the flrongeft marks of averfion, holding both their hands out before them, and turning away the head. They afterwards defired us to throw it into the fea, but we determined to preferve it in fpirits of wine. I was feverely punifhed about noon for making light of my complaint, and pafRng the morning at work; for I was fuddenly feized with ficknefs, and forced to go to bed, by a returning fit of dizzinefs. The only remedies which gave any relief, were fudorifics ; but the poifon was of too virulent a nature, to be fubdued in a fhort time. It prevented our making thofe refearches, which from the nature of the country before us, would doubtlefs have teemed with a variety of interefting difcoveries in every branch of natural hiftory. The next morning lieutenant Pickerfgill, Fnda was fent with the launch and another boat, to an iiland to the wcR, about eight leagues diflant, which the natives named Balabcca j in order to examine the fituation and direction of the coafts in that part. We faw thefe boats put off with thc grcatcft regret, being obliged by the continuance of our dizzinefs, to forego this opportunity of examining an extenfive tract of unknown country. Abfo-lute inability to ftand or walk longer than five minutes at a time, was the only circumftance which withheld us from, embarking on this excurfion. The poifon which had been, thus fatal to us, had likewife affected feveral dogs, taken on board at the Society Iflands ; thefc creatures having feized upon the remains of thc liver, were extremely ill, and had the fame fymptoms as thofe which were poifoned at Mallicollo. A little pig, the only one which wc obtained at Tanna, having eaten the entrails of the fifli, died foon after, being fwclled to an unufual fize. Thc natives who came on board, began now to admire our iron ware, and readily took nails, knives, and hatchets. Tca-booma, the chief, fent captain Cook a prefent of fome fugar-canes and yams, which, confidering thc poverty of thc country, was indeed a kingly prefent. He was complimented in return with a hatcher, a gimlet, and a Taheitian dog of each fcx, thefe animals being entirely unknown in the country. We endeavoured to obtain the name of this great ifland from thc natives, but we could not fucceed, being always put off with the appellations of particular diftricts. Thus for inflancc, they called thc part oppofite to the fhip, Baladd j the obfervatory ifland, Poozooc ; and the diftrict beyond thc hills on the S. W. coafl, Tcaboo-ma ; which being alfo the name of thc chief, occafioncd fcveral conjectures. The general name of New Caledonia was therefore prefcrved, particularly as it fuited not only with the good difpofition of the people, but alfo with the nature of the country. We We ventured, though excefftvely weakened, to go on SE^l7^ {hore the next morning. Having landed to the eaRward Saturday of the watering-place, we walked acrofs a part of the plain, which was wholly uncultivated, and covered with thin dry graffes. A path brought us into a fine wood at the foot of the hills, which abounded with new plants, birds, and infccTs. Every thing confpired here, to make us look upon thc country as a folitude. We faw the hills before us, and on both fides, without a finglc habitation upon them, and the plain which we had croRed, was in this neighbourhood equally deftitute of inhabitants. The population of New Caledonia muft indeed be extremely thin ; for the foil is unfit for cultivation on the mountains, and the narrow plain itfclf, is for thc greatcR part very barren and defert. We proceeded to the eaftward, till we came near a few houfes, placed among fwamps. Some of the inhabitants came to us with great good-nature in their countenances, and pointed out the places where wc might walk with iafcty without finking into the mud. We obfervcd that their houfes had not only a covering of mats made of coco-nut leaves, but that the innermoft coating fometimes confiftcd of the bark of thc cayputi-tree. Before one of the huts, fome of thc natives were eating a few leaves which had been ftcwed ; and others fucking thc bark of the bH'ifais ti!idcciis% after they had broiled it over thc fire. We tailed of this bark, but found it extremely infipid, naufcous, and and affording little nutriment. Neccflity feems to have forced the people to content themfclves with thc mofl fcanty means of fubflftence, at certain feafons j and no time of the year is more likely to be feverely felt, than that of fpring, when their winter flores is exhaufted, and thc new crop is not yet come up. They doubtlcfs fupply thc deficiency by fifhing, for which thc cxtcnfive reefs round their iiland furnifh the befl opportunity; but fince our arrival in the harbour it had blown rather frcfli, and the wind daily encreafed to fuch a pitch, that it would have been to no purpofe to venture from thc fliore. Mahine, whilfl he accompanied us, frequently ufed to mention, that even the opulent natives of Taheitce and thc Society Iflands, fometimes, though rarely, feel thc inconveniences of a dry or barren year, and are obliged during fome months, to have rccourfc to fern-roots, thc bark of various trees, and the fruit of wild buflics, to fatisfy thc cravings of hunger. Wc found near thefe huts a number of tame fowls of a Luge breed, and bright plumage, which were the only domeilic animals of any kind, belonging to thc natives \ and alfo faw heaps of lhells, which they had collected on the reefs, and of which they had eaten thc fifli. The temper of thefc people in general was indolent, and almofl deftitute of curiofity ; thc greater part of them did not ftir from their feats, when we paflcd by their huts, fpokc very feltlom, feldom, and almoft always in a ferious tone. The women Al7™\ were fomewhat more cheerful, and thofe who were married, carried their infants on their backs in a kind of fatchel. We returned on board about one o'clock, but landed again after dinner. Having obferved that thc buflies and trees near the fea fide, were better Rocked with birds than thofe in thc interior country, becaufc they afforded more made and more food, we confined our cxcurfion to the plain, being defirous of cncrcafing our zoological collection. We fell in with another group of huts, clofe to thc water; here the natives had put one of their large earthen pot6 over the fire, and filled it with fliclls, of which by this means they roaftcd thc fifli. Wc faw one of them who had a hatchet in his hand, of a very remarkable fhape. It was made of a crooked piece of wood, which forms a great knob, but has a fliort handle, not exceeding fix inches. Thc other end is hollowed out, and a black flonc jufl fitting the cavity is pi iced in it, without being tied on, as is thc cafe with thc hatchets of thc Society and friendly Iflands. We purchafed this hatchet, it being thc firfl inflrumcnt relating to agriculture which wc had fcen in this country. Wc likewife made an acquifition of fome clubs, flings, and fpcars, and had an opportunity of admiring thc fkill of fcveral youths, who made ufe of their flings with thc greater! prccifion. In thc courfe of our rambles, wc came to an cnclofure of flicks, round a little hillock or mound, four Vol. II. G gg fect jtemuer. feet high; within the enclofure thc natives had (luck in the ground fome other (ticks befet with large trumpet?--(hells. We enquired for what purpofe this fpot was fo enclofed, and were told that the chiefs of thc diftricT were buried in that ground. As wc found numerous burying-places on thc hills, it appears to be a general cuflom with thc natives, to commit their dead bodies to thc earth. This manner of difpofing of thc dead, feems indeed much more judicious than that of Taheitce, where they expofe them above ground, till all thc flefh is perfectly putrificd. If thc mortality were more confidcrablc, than wc have reafon to believe it in that happy ifland, this cuflom might have thc mofl pernicious confcqucnccs, and produce a dreadful epidemical diflcmpcr. Europeans, above all, mould be extremely cautious of communicating any contagious difordcr to the people whom they vifit in the South Seas. Such a difeafe as thc fmall pox, for example, would undoubtedly make dreadful havock, and go near to deflroy the whole race of Tahcitians. The acrimony of thc poifon which wc had received into thc body, by tailing the liver of the fifli, had fo much weakened US, that wc were entirely cxhaullcd towards evening, and obliged to fit down repeatedly, in order to recruit our wailed fpirits. Wc flill felt returns of dizzinefs which made us unfit for any kind of researches, in fpite of ourfelves, and even deprived us of thc power of thinking^ judging, judging, and remembering, as well as of the perfect ufe of Se?tTmber our external fenfes. I cannot mention this misfortune, without lamenting once more, that it befell us in a country newly difcovered, where we had more need than ever of perfect health, and of all our attention and difcernment, in order to make thc moft of the few moments which we were allowed to fpend among a people wholly different from all we had hitherto fcen. The reader, who perhaps may find lefs food for his curiofity in this part of our narrative, than he expected, is rcqucftcd to confidcr our unhappy fituation at that time, when all our corporeal and intellectual faculties were impaired by this virulent poifon. We came back before it was daik to the fliip, which thc natives left foon after our return. A few of them only went off in canoes j for, as the wind blew very hard, the grcateft number had come on board fwimming, and returned the fame way. We faw forty or fifty put off together, and in fpitc of thc great agitation of the water, fwim to thc fhore; it blew fo hard thc next morning, however, that none of them came back to the {hip. Wc went alhorc again, though wc were much wetted in Sunday u, our paffagc thither, and took a walk to the wcllward. On this cxcurfion wc faw a great number of birds, and enriched our collection with many new fpecies. It is not to be doubted, that thc vicinity of fuch an cxtcnfive continent as that of New Holland, contributes to encreafe thc variety of animal C g g 2 and and vegetable fpecies in this ifland. To confirm this affertion, we may quote the tcftimony of captain Cook, and of all thofe perfons who had feen New Holland with him in the Endeavour, and who, upon examining New Caledonia, unanimoufly pronounced that in its general appearance it perfectly re fern bled that continent. New Holland is faid to differ from New Caledonia only in having a more fertile foil in fome places, confining of a ftratum of vegetable earth j but there is no difference in thc growth of thc trees, the want of flirubbcry in the forefls, and the general dry-nefs or parched appearance of thc country. Wc flopped at feveral houfes of thc natives, iituated in a group of fliady trees ; the inhabitants of thefe huts were feated on the ground, without any occupation, and none but young people rofe from their feats at our approach. Wc found here a man who had perfectly flaxen hair, a complexion much fairer than common, and his face covered with freckles. Anomalous individuals have been found among the Negroes of Africa, and thc inhabitants of America, thc Moluccas, and the tropical iflands of thc South Sea; but their weak habit of body, and particularly a wcaknefs in their eyes, have given the grcatcft room to believe, that a difeafe of the parents occafioned thefe varieties *i In the man whom wc * This opinion is very ably fct forth by M. Paanw, in thc Rcchcrchea Vhilofophiques fur 1c Amcricains, vol. II. fett, i. Dcs Blafanh tk tics Ncgrco blancs. faw, faw, no fymptom of weaknefs, and no defect in the organs sErHlth of fight could be obfervcd; and therefore fome flighter caufe muff have influenced the colour of his hair and fkin. A gentleman cut off a lock of his hair, as well as another from a man of the common colour, and gave them both to us. Thc natives expreRed fome diflike on lofing their lock of hair, but as he had performed the operation before they were aware, he foon pacified them with a few trifles. Their good temper, and their indolence, feem to make their re-fentrnent very fhort-lived, cfpccially upon trifling occasions. After leaving thefe huts, wc rambled fcparatcly all the morning, and did not rejoin each other till it was time to return. Dr. Sparrman, with my father, had gone upon the hills, whilfl: I remained in thc woody ikirts of the plain, and convcrfed as well as I could with the natives. They gave me the names of many dillricts upon their ifland, of which we had not heard brforc, and of which we could not make ufe, for want of knowing their proper fituations. Here I faw again many individuals with one leg, or arm, of an enormous fize, in the fame manner as I had obferved fome at our firfl landing,, (fee p. 383.) and one had both his legs aRlicted in thc fame manner. I touched this fwelling, and found it extremely hard ; but the fkin was not harih and fcaly alike in all the ^ck perfons. The preternatural cxpanlion of the leg or arm did not appear to be a great inconvenience to them, and, as far far as I undcrftood, they rarely feel any pain it; but in fome the difordcr caufed a kind of excoriation, and began to form blotches, which were marks of a greater degree of virulence. The leprofy, of which this elephantiafis, or prodigious fwclling, according to thc opinion of thc medical faculty, is a fpecies, fecms to be a difeafe particularly incident to dry, parched climates. Thc countries where it commits the grcatcft ravages, as thc coaft of Malabar, Egypt, Pa-lcftine, and all Africa, are remarkable for droughts, and contain in many places vaft tracts of fandy defarts. I do not mean to fuppofc that leprofy is thc natural effect of a dry climate, but only to hint, that heat and drought may contribute to make the human body more liable to its attacks. I obfervcd this day that the women of New Caledonia are hardly fo much cllccmcd by thc men as thofe of Tanna. They commonly kept at a diftance from thc men, and fccmcd fearful of offending them by a look or gefture; th y were the only perfons in thc family who had any employment, and feveral of them brought bundles of fticks and fuel on their backs. Their infcnlible hulbands feldom deigned to look upon them, and continued in a kind of phlegmatic indolence, whilft thc women fometimes in-dulged that focial checrfulncfs, which is the dillinguilhing ornament of the fcx. Thus, in every country, mankind arc fond of being tyrants, and the pooreft Indian, who knowB no wants but thofe which his cxitlcncc requires, has already learnt A VOYAGE ROUND THE W O R L D. 4*5 learnt to cnflave his weaker helpmate, in order to lave him- sep-m felf the trouble of fupplying thofe wants, and cruelly exacts an obedience from her, which has been continued among favages as a curfe upon the fex*. Confidering thefe humiliations and cruel opprcflions of the fex, we have fometimes the greateR reafon to admire, that the human race has perpetuated itfelf, and that the Creator has wifely planted a motive in the female breaft, wThich flands thc teft of every outrage, which makes them patient to fuller, and prevents their withdrawing from thc power of their tyrants. After dining on board, we paffed the afternoon afhore again, and were fo far fuccefsful in our refearches, as to obtain a beautiful fpecies of parrot, which was entirely new to zoologifls. It was fliot in a plantation far exceeding every thing I had fcen upon New Caledonia for extent, as well as for thc variety and flourifhing Rate of thc vegetables in it. There were feveral walks of bananas, fcveral fields of yams and eddoes, together with fugar-cancs, and like-wife fome fpecies of yamboo-trccs fcitgenio), which we had never fcen before. Different parts of it were feparated by paths, and the whole was kept in good order. Indubious individuals arc therefore to be met with even among thefe indolent people; and when navigators have an opportunity of becoming thc benefactors of favages, for example, by * Gen. iii. vcr. 16. giving giving them domeftic animals, they fliould felcct fuch people as are mod likely to make a good ufe of their prefents. We returned on board in the evening, after (Looting at a mark to amufe fome of the natives, who fet up their clubs for that purpofe, and were much plcafed with our fuppofed fkill. Soon after arrived thc two boats which lieutenant Pickcrfgill had conducted to thc weft ward, and which had hcen detained by contrary winds. We were fortunate enough to collect thc following particulars of that intelligent officer's cxcurfion. Having fet out from thc fhip, he did not approach thc fliore till he had advanced feveral leagues, and faw many turtles on the water, of which he could not ftrike one, on account of thc violence of the wind. Thc boats putting afhore, found thc face of thc country, towards the N. W. end of the ifland, very like the part oppofitc our anchoring place, though confiderably more fertile and cultivated, and covered with many coco-trees. Thc natives were as civil and inoflenfivc in this place as we had found them from the beginning. Two of them, who had already been on board thc fhip, hearing that our people intended to crofs over to thc ifle of Balabeca, more to the northward, took a paflage in the cutter. One of them, whole name was Boobik, was a merry fellow, different in this refpect from moft of his countrymen ; he talked a great deal to our people at firft, and taught them is name, which they they pronounced booty, with thc fame pleafure with which he heard it. After fome time, however, the waves rifing, and frequently wafhing into the boat, he became very filent, and crept into a boat-cloak, to fcrecn himfelf from thc wer, and recover from the chillinefs which the wind occafioned on his naked body. He likewife grew very hungry, having taken no provifions with him, and very thankfully received what our people offered him. His fituation, and that of all his companions, however, became very foon alarming to thc bighcfl degree. Thc cutter fprung a leak, which admitted fuch quantities of water, that it was impofliblc to free thc boat, though every body baled with his hat, or fuch utcnfil as he could find mofl fit for the purpofe. They were prefently reduced to heave over-board a cafk of ficfli water, and many other articles, in order to lighten thc boat; but all was to no purpofe, till having cleared away fome bundles, they found thc leak, which they Roppcd as well as they could for the prefent with their caps, and with rags, and proceeded for thc ifle of Balabcea with all pofliblc dif-patch. Mr. Pickcrfgill, in the launch, met a canoe of that ifland with a few natives, who had caught a large quantity of fifh, of which they readily fliarcd out a part to him for a trifling confidcration of iron-ware. It was late in the afternoon when he arrived upon the ifland. Thc natives, being exactly of the fame race as thofe of New Caledonia, were not Lis good-tempered, and freely parted with their Vol, IL H h h arms arms to our people for trifles of iron-ware, or Taheitee cloth. They alfo, at thc defirc of Mr. Pickerfgill, brought him fome frefh water. In the evening our party retired to a few bullies, and made a great fire, by which they broiled the fifh which had been prcfented to them, and ate their fuppcrs. A number of thc natives Rill remained with them, and fpokc of a great land to thc northward, which they called Mingha, of which thc inhabitants were their enemies, and very warlike. They likewife pointed out a fcpulchral mound or tumulus, where one of their chiefs lay buried, who had been killed in defence of his own country, by thc hand of a native of Mingha. Thc appearance of a large becf-bonc, which fome of our people began to pick towards the conclufion of their fuppcr, interrupted this convcrfation. Thc natives talked very loud and carncflly to each other, looked with great furprizc, and fome marks of difgufi, at our people, and at lafl went away all together, cxprcfling by figns that they fufpetted the flrangcrs of eating human flefh. Our officer endeavoured to free himfelf and his fhipmatcs from this fufpicion ; but thc want of language was an unfur-mountable obflaclc to this undertaking, even fuppofmg it pofliblc to pcrfuade a fet of people, who had never fcen a quadruped in their lives. Thc next morning they went about to mend their boat, and fprcad their wet cloaths upon thc ground to dry in thc fun. The natives gathered about them them in great crouds from all parts of the ifland, and Mr. g^i"^ Pickerfgill found it advifeable to draw lines on the fand, in order to fecure the cloaths of his people. The natives very readily came into his propofal, and never croflcd the lines. One of them, however, feemed to be more furprifed than all thc reft at this contrivance, and with a great deal of humour drew a circle round about himfelf, on the ground, with a Rick; and intimated, by many ludicrous geflures, that every body prefent fliould keep at a diflance from him. This little fally was thc more (hiking, as it was extremely uncommon among the grave inhabitants of thefe countries. They fpent thc day in repairing their boats, and examining the ifland on which they had landed; and thc next morning before day-break put off, in order to return. They were, however, unfortunate enough to find their repairs to little purpofe, and therefore, in order to lighten thc boat, landed on New Caledonia at fix in the morning. They left only thc rowers in thc boat, and proceeded on foot, along a coafl of near twenty-four miles, to the land abrcaft of the fhip. One of thc furgcon's mates, who went on this cx-curfion, collected a prodigious variety of new and curious (hells upon thc iiland of Ilallabcca, and likewife met with many new fpecies of plants, of which we did not fee a fmglc fpecimen in the diflriets we had vifited ; but the mcanefl and moft unreafonablc envv taur/ht him to conceal thefe diicovcrics from us, though he was utterly incapable of H h h 2 making IutTumi, making ufe of them for the benefit of fcience * Wc had therefore more reafon than ever to regret that our illnefs difablcd us from fharing the perils of this little excurfion. We accompanied captain Cook the next morning into the river to thc eaflward, where he went to give his friend * It will not be improper to acquaint thc reader, that wc were fo fituated on board thc Refolution, as to meet with obftacles in all our refearches, from thofe who might have been expcclcd to give us all manner of afliflancc. It has always been the fate of fcience and philofophy to incur the contempt of ignorance, and this wc might have fuffercd without repining; but as we could not purchafc thc good will of every petty tyrant with gold, wc were fhidioufly debarred thc means of drawing the leafl advantage to fcience from the obfervations of others, who of themfclves did not know how to make thc proper lift of a difcovery when they had nude it, Circumfhnccs which were known to every pcrfon around us, remained impenetrable niyflcrics to us ; and it was aflurcdly not owing to the good nature of our fhipmatcs, if wc have been fortunate enough to obtain even fuch trifling information, as has enabled me to give thc true and cxaft fituations of every place in this narrative, and in my chart. If it had been pofliblc, they would have decci/ed even our eyes. It may feem extraordinary, that nun pf fcience, fent out in a fhip belonging to thc moft enlightened nation in thc world, fhould be cramped and deprived of thc means of purfuing knowledge, in a manner which would only become a fet of barbarians ; but it is certain, that the traveller who vifits thc ruins of Egypt and Paleftinc, cannot experience greater mortification from the ignorant felfiihncfs of Bedouins and other Arabs, than fell to our lot ; fince every difcovery wc attempted to make, was fuppofed to contain a treafurc, which became thc object of envy. The world will, however, derive cue advantage from this proceeding ; wc (hall have little to oflrr, but what we have fcen with our own eyes, and for thc truth and precifion of which wc can be anfwerablc. If there had not been a few individuals of a more liberal way of thinking, whofe difmtcrclted leve for the fcicnccs comforted us from time to time, wc fliould in all probability have fallen victims to that malevolence, which even the pofitive commands of captain Cook were fometimes infufScicnt to keep within bounds. Ileebai Heebai a little pig of each fex, in order to provide, if pof- September. fiblc, a (lock of domeftic animals for a nation, whofe good, inoifeniive temper feemed highly to deferve fuch a prefent. We found this man and his family at the huts where wTe had firft feen him ; and captain Cook having delivered thc pigs to him, each of us contributed his mite of knowledge of the language, in order to make it intelligible to him, that thc propagation of thefe animals would fupply him, in courfe of time, with conftant food, and that they deferved to be carefully nurfed. He, as well as the whole family, were furprifed at the fight of thefe creatures, and at firft exprcITed fo much diuike and dread of them, that they made figns to us to take them back. Wc now redoubled our efforts to convince them of their error, and at la(L prevailed upon them to keep thc pigs. It mull be allowed, that fwine arc far from being well-looking quadrupeds, and that thofe who have never feen an animal of that clafs, cannot be fuppofed to like them at firft fight. Men feem to have had rccourfc to animal food through ncceftity at full, .13 thc depriving any creature of life is an act of violence, which demands a powerful caufe, before it is made familiar by habit. When they had the choice, it fhould feem that fuch ill-looking animals as hogs were commonly rejected, till a more urgent opportunity proved, that, in fpite of their appearance, their Hcih was as delicious as that of (hcep and oxen. Thc poor natives of New Calt* Caledonia had hitherto tailed no other animal food than fifh and birds, and therefore the introduction of a quadruped into their ceconomy, could not fail to furprife them. Wc walked about for fome time among thc marflies and plantations, and came to a houfe detached from the refl, which was cnclofcd by flakes, and behind which we faw a row of wooden pillars. Each of them was about a foot fquare, and nine feet high ; and on the top of each a human head was rudely carved. Here we found a folitary old man, who, on our pointing to thefe pillars, made figns that they indicated his burying-place. Nothing is more remarkable in thc hiflory of mankind, than thc general concurrence of different nations, to erect a monument on the fpot where they lie buried. To dive into thc original motives for this cuflom, with various people, would be a curious and intercfling purfuit, and might perhaps lead us to difcovcr, among all nations an univerfal idea of a future flute. After leaving this fpot, wc palled a plantation, where the natives, and particularly thc women, were at work to clear, and dig up a piece of fwampy ground, probably in order to plant it with yams or eddocs. They had an in-Rrumcnt with a long crooked, and fharp-pointcd bill, like thc bill of a bird, with which they llirrcd up the foil. The fame tool they frequently make ufe of as an olfcnfivc weapon, and as fuch 1 mentioned it page 385. It fecms the foil foil of this country is fo poor, as to require more than SE1,^;{t ordinary pains to make it fit for planting, efpecially as I never obferved the people digging in this manner, in any of the iflands of thc South Sea. We fhot fome curious and beautiful birds at this place, and then returned to the fhip, where we found all the other boats hoilled in. We landed at the watering-place after dinner, where captain Cook ordered the following infeription to be cut into a remarkable large and fhady tree on the beach, clofe to thc rivulet ; " His Britannic Majcfly's Ship Rcfolution, Sept. 1774/' This being done, wc rambled for the laR time along thc brook, which had fupplicd us with as much water as we had expended fince our departure from Tanna; and having matched a few plants, which our difordcr had caufed us to overlook before, wc took our lafl leave of this large ifland, and were hurried on board from our fcene o£ action. At day-light the next morning, the feamen weighed the Tucfday anchors, thc fhip foon cleared the reefs, and we flood along fliore to thc N. W. We had lain in this harbour exactly feven days and a half; but on the third night after our arrival, wc were poifoned by eating of thc fifh, by which means we loR thc opportunity of making thc mofl of this, fliort flay. On leaving this place, wc were far from being recovered, but had daily acute head-aches, and fpafmodic pains over thc body, together with an eruption on our lips* Si:PTEMEEi. lips. We alfo felt ourfelves much weakened, and unfit to go through our ufual occupations j whilft the want of frefh food greatly contributed to keep us in a lingering Rate, and retarded our rccovcy. Thus wc left an ifland fltuated in the weftcrnmoft part of thc South Pacific Ocean, not above 12 degrees diflant from the coaR of New Holland, and inhabited by a race of men very diflincT from all wc had hitherto feen in thc fame ocean, from their vicinity to New Holland, one might have been apt to fuppofc, that they had thc fame origin with thc people of that continent ; but upon comparing all the accounts of former voyagers, who have vifited New Holland, its inhabitants bear no re-femblancc to one another, and as a farther proof, thc vocabulary of both nations is totally different*. Their numbers appear to be very inconlidcrable, and thc moll probable guefs wc would form of them, after ranging thc whole northern coaft of thc iiland, docs not make them amount to fifty thoufand, upon a fea-coaft of near two hundred leagues. Thc country which they inhabit, fecms indeed to be very unfit for cultivation in moll parts. The narrow plain which furrounds it, is full of fwamps on thc fca-fidc, covered with mangroves ; and this part is with much trouble drained by ditches, and dug till it is made fit for the purpofes of * A vocabulary of the New Holland lan^ua^e was obli-in^ly communicated 4o us by captain Cook, a§ri- agriculture. The reft of the plain is fomcwhat higher, hut s^rL iup.. in return exccffively dry, fo that they are obliged to moiftcn it by means of canals which conduct thc water from the rivulets or pools. Beyond this feveral hillocks rife, covered with a dry parched earth, where fome fpecies of Snivelled grafs, the cayputi-tree, and a few flirubs thrive, at a great diftance afunder; and from thence upwards, the interior mountains are almoft entirely deftitute of vegetable earth in many places, and confift of a fhining red glimmer, and large pieces of quartz. The nature of this foil cannot give luxuriance to the growth of vegetables ; on the contrary, it is rather furprifing, that fuch a variety of fpecies fpring up in ir, as wc met with, though they arc for thc greatcft part dry, and of a very homely appearance. Only the woods on fome parts of the plain, are filled with flirubberics, bind-wceds, gay flowers, and tufted fhady trees. It is eafy to be conceived, that the contrail between Nova Caledonia, and the New Hebrides, was very linking to us, who had fo lately vifued thofe rich and fertile iflands, where thc vegetable kingdom glories in its grcatcft perfection. Thc difference in thc charater of thc people was no lefs furprifing. All thc natives of thc South Sea iflands, excepting thofe only which Tafman found on Tonga-Tabboo and Namoka * made fome attempt to drive away the flrangcrs * And thofe perhaps had been informed of what had paflcd between lc Mairc, and the natives of Home, Cocos, and Traitors Ifland, fome years before. Vol. II. 1 i i who / who came to vifit them. But the people of New Caledonia at the firft fight of us, received us as friends ; they ventured to come on board our fliip, without thc lcaft marks of fear or diftruft, and fuftered us to ramble freely throughout their country as far as wc plcafcd. They rcfcmblcd moft the people of Tanna in colour, and thc woollincfs of their hair ; but their ftaturc was fuperior, their limbs in general more flout, their features more mild, open, and inoRcnfivc ; and their cuftoms in many refpccls very different. Thc peculiar character of their faces may be fcen in thc accurate portraits which Mr. Hodges has drawn of each fex, and which arc engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage. A juR idea of the country may likewife be formed, by confulting thc views which that ingenious artift has copied from nature. There is, however, fome fimilirity between their manufactures, and thofe of Tanna; cfpccially in the fhape of their arms, in thc ufe of the rope or twkft, (fee p. 27 c;.) to throw thc fpear, in the nature of thc ornaments which they wear, and particularly in what I have mentioned p. 277, and p. 383*. Thc language, which on thefe occafions is thc furcft guide, is totally diilbnant; their dwellings are of a dilfcrcnt conftruction, and their mode of living fcems to correspond only in a few inflanccs. The * Their arms, their cap, their beckct, and various other articles have been accurately drawn and engraved, under my father's infpeclion, for eapuin Coot's account of this voyage. people people of Tanna are rich, in comr/arifon'with thofe of New Caledonia; their plantations furnifh them with abundance of vegetables, and if thefe fliould fail, the woods on their fea-fliore are full of coco-palms, which offer an ample (lore of fruits. At New Caledonia, the plantations yield in moR places a fcanty produce j and the wild country, as far as wc had an opportunity of examining it, does not contain a fingle article which could be deemed of great fervice. On thc other hand, the people of New Caledonia feem to be great fiflicrmen, and the reefs round their ifland, give them excellent opportunities for this purpofe, and are doubtlcfs at certain feafons, thc refort of turtles. As nature has been fo fparing here of her gifts, it is the moR furprifing, that inllcad of feeing thc inhabitants favagc, diftruRful, and warlike as at Tanna, wc fliould find them peaceable, wcll-difpofed, and unfufpicious. It is not lefs remarkable, that in fpite of thc drought which prevails in their country, and thc fcanty fupply of vegetable food, they fliould have attained to a greater fize, and a more mufcular body. Perhaps inllcad of placing thc caufes which effect difparity of Aaturc among various nations in the difference of food, this inllancc ought to teach us, to have fome retrofpecf like-wife to the Original races from which thofe tribes are def-cended, that fell under our examination. Let us for inllance fuppofc, that thc people of New Caledonia are thc offspring of a nation, who by living in affluence, and in a genial 1 i i 2 climate, climate, have not hcen Rinted in their growth ; the colony which removed into the barren foil of New Caledonia, will probably prefcrve thc habit of body of their anceftors for many generations. The people of Tanna may have undergone a contrary revolution, and being defcended of a Render and fliort race, like the Mallicollefc, the richnefs of their prefent country may not yet entirely have taken effect Thefe hints are fubmitted to thc learned, whofe province it is to confirm or refute them; but on which fide focver the truth may fall, I fliall reft equally contented, as I have adopted no particular fyftem. The inoffenfivc character of thc people of New Caledonia appears to great advantage in their conduct towards us. They are thc only people in thc South Seas who have not had reafon to complain of our arrival among them. When we confider how cafy it is to provoke thc mariner to fport with thc lives of Indians, from the numerous examples throughout this narrative, we mull acknowledge that it required an uncommon degree of good temper, not to draw upon themfelves a (ingle act of brutality. Thofe philofo* phcrs who are of opinion that thc temper, the manners, and genius of a people, depend entirely upon thc climate, will be at alofs to account for thc peaceful character of thc inhabitants of New Caledonia. If wc admit that they arc only ftrangcrs to diflruft, becaufc they have little to lofc, we fhall not folvc thc difficulty ; fince thc people of New Holland, land, under the influence of a fimilar climate and foil, and Slf *J£;1IU in a more wretched fituation than the inhabitants of New Caledonia, are favage and unfociable. The different characters of nations feem therefore to depend upon a multitude of different caufcs, which have acted together during a fcries of many ages. Thc inhabitants of New Caledonia do not owe their kind difpofition to a total ignorance of wars and difputes ; the variety of their offenfive weapons being alone fuflicient to put this matter out of doubt. By converting with them we learnt that they have enemies, and that the people of an ifland called Mingha had a very different character from their own. I was once in a boat with captain Cook and Mr. Wales, when one of the natives acquainted us by very fignificant and intelligible geflurcs, that they had enemies who fcafled on human flefh; and thc behaviour of thc inhabitants of Balabcca, on feeing our people eat fait beef, which they miflook for human flefh, contributes to prove that fuch a cuflom is not unknown to them, and that they look upon it with horror and detefta-tion. Civilization is therefore much farther advanced in this refpect among them, than with their more opulent neighbours. That higher degree of culture, where the un-dcrflanding is fuflicicntly enlightened to remove the unjuft contempt fhewn to thc fair fex, is however unknown to them ; their temper is too grave to be captivated by female blandifhmcnts, or to fet a proper value upon the refined enjoyments joymcnts of life. They are obliged to work hard, at times, for thc means of fubfiflcncc ; but their leifure hours are ipent in indolence, without thofe little recreations which contribute fo much to the happinefs of mankind, and dif-fufe a fpirit of chccrfulncfs and vivacity throughout the Society and Friendly Iflands. Bcfidcs thc little whiflle which I have mentioned above, wc never faw a mufical in-flrumcnt among the people of New Caledonia. Their dances and fongs are equally unknown to us ; and what we obfervcd during our fliort flay, gave us reafon to fuppofc, that even laughter is an uncommon gucft among them. They are likewife niggards of fpecch, and we rarely met with individuals among them, who took a plcafurc in holding convcrfe with us. Their language therefore fecms to be uncultivated, and their pronunciation fo indiflinct, that thc vocabularies which fcveral of our fhipmatcs collected, difagrccd remarkably. Though they have few harfh con-fonants, they have a frequent return of gutturals and fome-timea a nafal found, or rhinifmus, which commonly puzzled thofe who were not acquainted with any other language than thc I'odilh. Perhaps, their plantations lying remote from each other, are thc means of preventing that familiar Imercourfe which would gradually give life to the pleafurcs of fociety. As their country fecms not to-be very fit for agriculture, thc bell means to forward civilization among them might be thc introduction of quadrupeds, fuch as they they mould not find it difficult to maintain ; for inRance, a September. few hogs, to keep near their huts, and goats to run wild. The latter in all probabilily would thrive extremely well in that dry climate, and afford an excellent article of food. ,That fimplicity which is remarkable in their domcftic life, cannot fail to be confpicuous in their government. Teabooma was acknowledged as a chief in the diftricT op-pofitc thc fhip's anchoring-placc; but thc poverty of the country did not afford him great and exclufive advantages, and luxury being hitherto unknown, he lived like the reft of his countrymen. Among a people fo fimple we cannot expect exterior marks of deference ; and the only act which fecmed to indicate a certain degree of homage on their part, confiftcd in delivering to thc chief, thc prefents which they had received from Mr. Pickerfgill at their firft interview. Thc neighbouring diilridls are not under thc government Of Tcabooma, and probably have their own chiefs; or perhaps each family forms a liitlc kingdom of its own, which is directed by its patriarch, as muft be the cafe in all infant Rates. We cannot attempt to extend our obfervations to the religion of thc natives, or which, in the fpace of eight day3, wc had no opportunity of acquiring afty information. Wc did not obferve any thing which might diilantly be con-ftrucd into a religious act, nor remark a fingle cuflom which had the leaft colour of fuperllition.^ Probably thc fimplicity fimplicity of their ideas on this fubject, correfponds with the whole tenour of their character. There is nothing to dif-prove this fuppofition, unlefs thc Right marks which point out their burying-places, ihould be deemed indications that fome ceremonies attend their funerals. Death, the moR remarkable fecne in the occonomy of human affairs, is commonly honoured with fome unufual act by thc fur-vivors ; and grief is particularly apt to be extravagant. It remains unknown whether the mortality is great or moderate at New Caledonia, and what difeafes are moll fatal in that iiland. We faw no other than thc clcphantiafis, a fort of leprofy, which I have already mentioned, and which was very common. However, I never obfervcd this evil in fo violent a degree, that thc patient fccmcd to be in danger of loling his life by it. Upon thc whole, a great multitude of difeafes arc thc confcqucnccs of unbounded luxury, and cannot take place among perfons fo little refined as thofe of New Caledonia. I faw fome among them whofe grey hair and wrinkles indicated a great age; but it was im-pollible to convcrfc with them upon fuch an abllract idea as age, fuppofmg they took the pains to number their years. We were not able to make ourfelves undcrftood when wc attempted to make enquiries at Taheitce concern-ing the age of thc inhabitants, though our knowledge of their language was very cxtcnfive, when compared with thc few words which wc had fnatched up in hade on New Caledonia. Caledonia. After thefe few remarks, I refume the narrative September. of the voyage. We Rcered between the north and weft, along the reefs which enclofc New Caledonia, in order to afcertain the pofi-tion of lands which we had indiftindtly feen in that quarter. Having advanced towards Balabeea, wc found the reefs running northerly^ and in fome places near fix leagues from the fhore. Man of war birds, boobies, and tropic birds frequented this part of thc fea in great numbers, hovering about our fliip. Wc difcovercd on the 15 th, that Thurfdajr t$i there were three iflands to the north of the weft end of New Caledonia; but, as thc reef extended very far to thc caft of them, and wc could find no paflage, it was impoffi- blc to form an exact idea of their figure and extent. The largcft of them might be ahout feven leagues long. Wc were becalmed on the 15th, within four miles of the reef, towards which a heavy fvvell drifted us very vifibly. In order to prevent Ariking on thefe dangerous rocks, we hoiftcd out two boats, and the crew were obliged to labour very hard to tow thc fhip off. A faint breeze in thc evening gave them fome refpite, but at midnight they were obliged to return to their work, rcleafing each other from time to time. Thc morning was fo calm that wc went out Md«y to fhoot birds, but had little fuccefs. Wc did not obtain a breeze till thc evening came on, and then, inflcad of lofing pur time in farther rcfcarchcs to thc northward, where we Vol. II. K k k tried eiPT^BE*. tried in vain to find a paflage, wc left that part, and prepared to range the fouth-eaft end of New Caledonia. Thc nor-thernmoft lands, which we had feen, lie in i 90 37' S. and 163° 40' E. 5iturda7i7. The next morning we paflcd the difhicl: of Balladd, where wc had lain at anchor. Repeated calms rendered our courfe very tedious ; wc did not advance above twenty leagues in two days, and Rill feeing the land to the fouth of us, were apprchenfivc of coming late to New Zeeland, where it was now faid we fhould prepare for the lafl fouthern cruize. Wc continued however (landing to the eafl-ward, and fomcwhat fouthcrly, having gentle breezes which laftcd fcveral hours, between the calm intervals. On thc gktrify**, 2 2d, in the evening, we faw a remarkable bluff point on the land, which was named Cape Coronation, in commemoration of that day. The reefs which had cnclofcd thc northern coafts of New Caledonia, did not extend to this part; but a3 wc had hitherto kept at thc diflanc of four or five leagues, wc could not difcern any thing of the nature of the country, except that thc ridge of mountains continued to run along of thc fame height as near our anchoring-place, and without any remarkable prominences or peaks. In the morning wc faw a fpot of ground, which could not he lefs than half a mile in length, from whence a quantity of fmoke afcended. Thc fea coafl near it was covered witJi innumerable columnar forms, of a confiderablc height, which which wc diftinguifhed by the help of our glafTes. Some September. of them Rood remote from each other, but far the greater part were placed in clofe, and feemingly compact, groups. The nature of the pillars of Bafaltes, which are found in many parts of the world *, gave us fome reafon to look upon thefe extraordinary appearances as fo many colonnades of Bafaltes; and having fo lately fcen feveral volcanoes in the neighbourhood, and one fo near as Tanna, we were greatly ftrcngthened in this opinion, it being alTerted by the moR judicious and experienced mineralogies, that bafaltes is a volcanic production. In thc evening, having left Cape Coronation aflcrn, we difecrned a vaft quantity of thefc columnar forms projecting into thc fea, on a flat point. Early on thc 24th, we came in fight of a cape which terminated New Caledonia to thc call; it was rather flecp, but of no great height, and perfectly level at the top to a confidcrable diflance. A number of pillars flood upon it, which fomething invalidated the opinion of their being bafalt-columns. This cape, winch captain Cook named Queen Charlotte's foreland, lies in 220 15' S. and 1670 15 E. In the evening, towards fix o'clock, another iiland was difcovercd far to thc fouth-cail from thc mafl-hcad, and thc next morning fcveral fmall iflands appeared between • Near AflTuyi, or Sycnc, in Upper Egyptj at Holfcna in Italy; near Kadie in Arabia Fdix 1 *t Ilikldhcim, Stolpcn,and Y;iucr, in different parts of Germany j iu the Hebrides of Scotland; and in thc county of Antrim in licland. K k k % New New Caledonia and this new difcovery, which the inflabi-lity of the wind would not permit us to examine. We obferved, however, that a great reef cnclofcd thefe iflands, which feemed entirely to preclude a paffagc, and obliged us to fland on to the caflward, in order to weather all the diflant land in fight. This part of our cruize was extremely difagrccable and tantalizing; we longed to have an opportunity of examining thc country, and were at prefent in great diflrefs for frcfli food. A fcanty portion of yams remained, which were eaten as dainties at the officers tables; but thc crew had not taflcd any rcfrefhmcnts fince our departure from Namoka. The appearance of new-lands made but little amends for the involuntary fall which we kept, and only fupported our hopes of making fome fortunate difcovery, which might perhaps offer uj frefh fupplics. Wc did not obtain a fettled breeze till thc 26th in thc evening, when wc immediately began to ply to windward* in order to double the large ifland before us. It confided of a mountain of lefs elevation than New Caledonia, and cafy of afcent, every where furrounded by flat land, on which the columnar bodies were innumerable. As wc made fe^ vcral trips within two miles in-fhorc, wc were at lafl con* vinccd that they were nothing clfc than trees, which on a prodigious tall Hem had fliort and (lender branches, not dif-ccrnible at a diflance. We Wc doubled the caflermoft extremity of this ifland, and September. of its reefs, on the 28th, at day-break, and then bore away along its fouth-eaR fliore. Captain Cook gave it the name of Ifle of Pines, fufpecting the columnar trees upon it to be of that kind. It feems to be about eighteen leagues in circumference, and the middle is fltuated in 22 0 40'S. and 1670 40'' E. The fouth-eaR wind, which had now fet in very frcfli, cooled thc air fo much in this latitude, that the thermometer funk to 6 3°, which caufed a difagrceable fen-fation to our bodies, long ufed to a warmer climate. The next day wc found a paflage between feveral reefs, and Thurfitiy came to an anchor off a little ifland, not above two miles in circuit, which was covered with tall columnar trees, though it was intircly flat and fandy. Thc fouth end of New Caledonia was not above fix leagues diflant from hence, and the fouthern coafl of that ifland feemed to run nearly parallel to the northern, giving the whole a long, narrow fhapc. This fouth point, which was called the Prince of Wales's Foreland, lies in 22° 30'S. and 1660 58' E. Wc hoiflcd a boat out immediately, and rowed to the little iflct, which was about a mile and a half from us. It was furrounded with a fmall reef of its own, in which we found a narrow paflage, containing many rocks, notwiihv flanding which wc landed with fafcty. Thc tall trees immediately demanded our firfl attention, and wc found that they. they belonged to the genus of cypreffes. They were remarkably (trait, and at lead ninety or a hundred feet high. Their branches grew round the (1cm, forming little tufts, but fcldom exceeded the length of ten feet, and were very (lender in proportion. A variety of other trees and Rirubs grew up between them, and rendered this little fpot thc rcfort of a great number of birds. We faw here alfo fome fcurvy-grafs, and another plant (tetydgoma)^ which wc commonly made ufe of at New Iceland in our foups. Captain Cook returned to the fhip with us, after this difcovery, intending to land again after dinner, in order to cut down fome of thc trees, and to collcft fome greens. Wc met with a variety of plants in thc afternoon, wrhich quite furprifed us, on fuch a confined fpot. Wc alfo faw fome fire-places on its fandy fliorcs, on which lay thc remains of fcveral turtles, which had probably afforded a delicious rcpall to fome of thc natives. A fpecies of hawk was fliot, which proved to ho thc common faho hallahou or ofprcy * j a kind of flycatcher likewife fell into our hands, which was not known heforc ; but bcfidcs this we faw feveral large beautiful pigeons, which wc could not fhoot. 1 dat-tailed watcr-fnakes (angmi flatvra) were likewife numerous upon the ifland. The cyprcfs-trccs were found to be exceeding good timber, and thc younger ones were very clallic, and fit for (bidding * Sec Mr. Pennant's Uiiiith Zoology. fail- fail-booms. After rambling: about this little foot till near B I774- o * oEPTEMBE fun-fet, we all returned on board, and at day-light the next morning, weighed the anchor, and failed flowly on to clear Fliclay thc reefs. Captain Cook gave this little iflct the name of Botany Ifland, becaufe it contained in fo fmall a fpace a jhva of near thirty fpecies, among which we faw feveral new ones. Its fituation is nearly 220 28' S. and 167 0 1 6' E. Its foil is very fandy on thc fhores, but in the interior part mixed with vegetable earth, from the trees and plants which continually decay on it, without being cleared away by human induftry. Whilfl wc lay at anchor, the firfl lieutenant caught a fifli, exactly of the fame fpecies with that which poifoned captain Cook, my father, and myfelf. He ordered it to be cleaned and boiled, in fpite of the carneft reprefentations of all his meflmates, who warned him againfl its pernicious effects. It was at lafl fet before him, by his pofitive orders, and his friends found no other means to fave him, than to ridicule his mad defign. Their humorous and fatirical remarks had a better effect than friendly admonitions, and he defifted from thc attempt. A little dog was, however, unfortunate enough to cat of thc entrails of thc fifli, and lay fcveral days in fuch exquifite torments, that it was at lafl thrown overboard, to put an end to its paiu and mifcry. This circumflancc proves to what great ditlrcflcs wc were now driven for want of frefh food, fince even thc riik of being poifoned was made light of, 1774 settbmb1r of, for the fake of a fingle meal. All our officers, who had made feveral voyages round the world, and experienced a multiplicity of hardftiips, acknowledged at prefent, that all their former fufferings were not to be compared to thofe of the prefent voyage, and that they had never before fo thoroughly loathed a fait diet. Captain Cook had made a provifion of dried hams for thc voyage, which by length of time were much corrupted ; all the fat being converted into a rancid oil, and thc fait having filled thc ilefli with a quantity of alkaline concretions like tartar. However, as often as this putrid and loathfome meat was carried to table, which happened once a week, thc petty officers devoured it with willful looks, and fpoke of our good fortune fo feelingly, that it would have given pain to a favagc. It was owing to our having fuch an excellent prefcrvative as four-krout on board, that thc fcurvy did not at this time make any confidcrablc progrefs amongtl us ; but our fituation was indeed wretched enough, without thc additional horrors of 1 difeafe. Wc were becalmed in thc evening among the reefs, which furrounded us on all fides, and made our fituation dangerous, on account of the tides and currents, as well as for want of anchoring-ground, having founded in vain with aline of 150 fathoms. At half pail Rvcn o'clock wc faw a ball of fire to thc northward, in fize and fplcndor refembliig the fun, though fomcwhat paler. Jt burn1 a lew few moments after, and left behind it feveral bright fparks, ^721 of which the largeit, of an oblong fliape, moved quickly out of our horizon, whilR a kind of bluifh flame followed, and marked its courfe. Some heard a hifTing noife, which accompanied the fwift defcent of this meteor. Our fliip-mates expected a frefh gale after its appearance, having frequently obferved the fame to enfue upon fimilar occafions. And in fact, whatever may be the relation between this phenomenon, and thc motion of the atmofphere, or whether it was accident, their predictions were verified the fame night. A brifk gale fprung up, which fettled at fouth, the OcTOBI next morning, and permitted us to direct our courfe E, by S. Saturday and S, S. E. from New Caledonia. This ifland, the largeft hitherto difcovercd in the South Seas between the tropics, remains entirely unexplored on its fouth fide. Thc direction and outline of its northern coafl, was fketched out during the fliort time which we could afford to fpend on this valuable difcovery ; but its animals, vegetables, and minerals flill remain untouched, and oiler an ample field to thc naturalifl. The appearance of cyprefs trees on the caflcrn part, fecms to prove that thc nature of the foil, and the mineral productions arc totally different in that part, from thofe of Balladd, of which wc had a curfory view; and from what wc faw on the little fandy Botany Ifland, a clifiinct fet of pi ants mufl there cover thc ground, and various unknown birds inhabit the woods. Thus it flill Vol. IL L I 1 remains (crom. remains for future navigators, to continue our difcoveries in the South Seas, and to take more time in invefligating their productions. Several pans of the Pacific Ocean are Rill untouched by former tracks j for inflancc, the fpace between io° S. and the line, acrofs the whole ocean, from America to New Britain; the fpace between io°S. and i 40 S. included between the meridian of 1400 and 1600 W. thc fpace included between the parallels of %oQ and 200 S. and the meridian of 140° and 1750 weft j the fpace between the fouthern moft of thc friendly Iflands, and New Caledonia, and that between New Caledonia and New Holland. M. de Surville's track, which I have mentioned vol. It p. 238, is thc only one which lies between thefe two countries. But New Guinea, New Britain, and all' the lands in that neighbourhood, obvioufly require to be more minutely examined, and would doubtlcfs reward thc navigator by a world of new and important difcoveries. All thefe diftricts of the South Sea being fearched, thc northern part of thc fame fea will require feveral voyages before it can be thoroughly explored. ^ It fell calm again on the 2d in the forenoon, and fcveral marks appearing about thc (hip, one of them was caught, and divided inflantly among thc whole mips company. Wc had our fliare of it, which the keen fauce of hunger made very delicious to our palate, though it was in fact very oily. We We foon recovered a wefterly breeze, which permitted us to 0ctom*. go to the S. S. E. after croihng the tropic of Capricorn, On the fifth in the afternoon, we had fight of two al- wcdncfdays. batrofifes again, being between the 26 th and 2 7 th degree of fouth latitude. Thc calm which happened the day after, permitted our ofheers to go out in a boat, in order to flioot fome birds ; but after toiling the whole day, they brought on board only four, of which two were petrels, and two al batrofifes. Wc were now once more on the confines of thc caflerly trade-wind, which fo near thc folftice became variable as foon as we had paffed the tropic. On the 7 th in the afternoon, wc had a gentle breeze with which wc failed between the fouth and weft j captain Cook being defirous to fall in with thc weft coaft of New Zeeland, in order to cfcape thc fame difficulties which we had experienced the year before in going into Cook's Strait. In the evening of the 8th, a numerous ihoal of large por-peffes paffed thc fhip, and played about it, leaping frequently out of thc water. One of them was ftruck with an harpoon, and by giving it a great deal of line, we had time to hoiil a boat out, and to kill it with live mufket fhot. H was of that fpecies which thc ancients called thc dolphin *, and which, wiih thc common porpefs, is found in every fea. It was fix fect long, and its dugs were full of * &t\ latter offered us a moR welcome and palatable refrefhment. We cut down feveral of them, and took on board the central fhoot, or heart, which in tafle more rcfembles an almond than a cabbage, Thc animal creation, like the vegetable, confided chiefly of the fame fpecies which we found at New Zeeland, The parrots and parroqucts were infinitely brighter coloured, though evidently of the fame fpecies ; but the pigeon was exactly the fame. Wc found bcfidcs thefc, a number of fmall birds, peculiar to this fpot, fome of which were very beautiful. On the beach we found feveral fucculcnt plants, fuch as a fpecies of tctragonia, and a mefcmhfyduthenvim, of which we gathered a quantity to boil in our loops. Thc melody of thc birds was very plcafing in this little deferted fpot, which if it had been of a greater fize, would have been unexceptionable for an European fcttle-mcnt. Wc put off from it late in thc evening, and when wc arrived on board, we greatly regretted that we had not thought of leaving a hog of each fex, which would doubilcfs have propagated undillurbcd, and in thc fpace of a few years flocked the iiland, fo as to become ufeful to future navigators. Captain Cook gave this pretty little fpot, the name of Norfolk Ifland; it is fltuated in : / % 30" S. and 1 6S° 1 6' E, Whilll wc had examined the woods, fome of the boatb' crew had been no lefs bufy in catching fifh, having been fortunate enough to meet with a pool, where they had come in at high water. Thc tops of the cabbage- AOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 44 bage-palm, thefe fifh, and the birds which we had Riot, 0c^7B4 afforded us an excellent refrefliment for a day or two. We pafTed the S. E. end of thc ifland the next morning, and faw a large Angle rock off that end. We founded repeatedly all the forenoon, and found bottom at thirty and forty fathom, to the diflance of eight leagues and upwards from the ifland. The vaft number of boobies, and fhear-waters, which were continually catching fifh about us, by darting down into the fea, indicated that this was a kind of fifiring-bank. At one o'clock in the afternoon, wc were out of foundings, and advanced with a frefh breeze towards New Zeeland, where we could expect to meet with regular refrefhmcnts after our tropical cruize, which towards the latter end had greatly weakened thc crew, by confining them to a putrid falt-diet, and which had proved particularly fatal to thc officers and ourfelves, by means of the poifonous fiflies that unfortunately fell in our way. We made fuch fpeed, attended by flocks of pintadas, pe- Monday trcls, and albatroRcs, that we made thc coaflof New Zeeland on the 17 th, early in thc morning, after having heavy dews for two nights before, which arc commonly reckoned iigns of land. Thc part of New Zeeland which wc now fell in with, was Mount Egmont, that prodigious peak which forms thc north point of Cook's Strait coming from the wefl. It appeared to be covered with fnow and ice nearly from thc middle to thc fummit, of which we had only octoIe'r. only a glimpfe now and then, when thc clouds broke which involved it. Its appearance is remarkably majcllic, and the neighbouring hills look like dwarfs in comparifon. It Rands upon, or rather its bafe gradually flattens into an extenfivc plain on all fides; and its fummit, tapering gradually, terminates in a fmall point. Its height is fuppofed to be not much inferior to the peak of Tcneriff, from the fpace which the fnow occupies on it. The breeze, which had hitherto been moderate, now changed into a hard gale, which carried us forward at the rate of eight knots an hour ; and wc felt thc air very fliarp and uncomfortable, thc thermometer Aanding at 58°. Wc now cllccmed ourfelves happy to be on thc well coall of New Zeeland, where this gale was favourable, which on the call fide would have been furiouiiy again A us. Thc next 1 i»Msytt. morning it hurried us pall Cape Stephens, Admiralty Hay, and Point Jackfon. As foon as wc entered Queen Charlotte's Sound, it only blew in intermittent gulls, with the help of Which wc came fafely to an anchor, thc third time during this voyage, in Ship Cove, which we had left near eleven months before. The fight of each well known object, however bleak and favagc its appearance, conveyed a pleafmg fenfation, and the hope of recruiting our walled fpirits and Arcngth, infpiicd unufual chcarfulncfs. C H A P. 1774" OCTOBLlU CHAP. IV. tfkird and lajl Jlay at Queen Charlotte's Sound, in New Zeeland, "O EPEATED fliowers, and chilling fqualls of wind, T«fl*tfi gave us a rough reception on thc wild fliorcs of New Zeeland. Thc feafon was not yet far advanced in this raw climate, and thc withered foliage of the lafl year, had not made room on many trees for the verdure of fpring. After dinner, wc went on fhorc to examine the beach where wc had twice before fixed our tents during this voyage, being defirous of feeing what was become of thc bottle which contained a letter to captain Furncaux. Before we landed wc took notice of a fmall flock of fliags, which had built their ncils on fome trees hanging over the water; a fign that the cove had not lately been vifitcd by men. Indeed wc have reafon to fuppofc that thc natives dwell in the interior rcccllcs of the bay during winter, thofe parts being probably rtforted to by thc fifli at that inhofpitablc feafon. Alter diflodging the fhags, and killing fome of their young, which, though fledged, were yet too flupid to fly away, wc landed, and were prefently convinced that an European fhip had vifitcd this place after our departure in November lafl. Vol. U, M m m Many ©iiaJi*. Many trees which we had left (landing were cut down with faws and other tools unknown to thc natives j the bottle was removed, and other indubitable veftiges of the new vi-fitation remained. Thc plantations which we had formerly * made were almofl entirely deftroyed, being partly rooted out, and partly fliflcd by the indigenous weeds, which grew luxuriantly in thc foil after it had been turned up. Our failors dragged a net feveral times, but to no purpofe ; however, we were fomcwhat more fuccefsful after our return to thc fhip, where fcveral fifli were caught with the hook and line. Amongft others, a fine fea-brcam (fparus pegrus), weighing eleven pounds, was taken, it being one of thofe fpecies which are to be met with in almofl every ocean *. About funfet a cannon was fired, with a view to apprize the natives of our arrival, if any of them happened to be within hearing. It was our intereft to have them near us, in order to fupply us with fifli, which our failors were not expert enough to catch in any quantity, fuppofing we could have difpenfed with their labours in repairing thc rigging, &c. UbdMft »9. At day-break all our people began to warp the fhip deeper into the cove, and about nine o'clock they had brought her into a convenient fituation very near the fliore*. Wc profited by an interval of fair weather, in order to vifit • It is caught on thc coafts of Kngtand,.in thc Mediterranean, at ihc Cape of Good Hope, and in thc South S«ft#. the beach, where we once more pitched our tents. The lad year's generation of birds, unacquainted with the treacherous arms of Europeans, fat patiently till we came near enough not to run thc rifle of miffing them; and thus we not only recruited our collection, but likewife provided a delicious refreshment. The creepers in particular, and fcveral fmallcr fpecies, were to the full as grateful to the palate as ortolans ; and every land-bird of this part of New Zeeland, hawks excepted, would have been rcliflied at the moll luxurious tables. In thc afternoon wc accompanied captain Cook to Cani-bal Cove, thc next to the northward of our anchoring-place. The fliorcs of this cove wc knew to be rich in celery and fcurvy-grafs, which it was thc captain's conflant care to provide for his crew, wherever they were to be had. In our rambles through thc woods at this place wc found a true Cabbage-palm (arcca oleracea), of the fame fort which wc had fcen at Norfolk Ifland. Its fituation in this high latitude was fomcwhat furprifing, and fecms to prove that this fpecies is of a more hardy nature than thc rcR in thc fame clafs, Wc returned Oil board with a rich load of greens, very acceptable to all our fhipmatcs, but eyed with peculiar plcafurc by all thofe who had been poifoned, and who honed, by thc ufe of this wholcfome diet, to be rcllored to health and flrcngth, which they had never enjoyed fince that unfortunate event. Another cannon was fned in the M m m 2 evening, ocVoJer. evening, as no natives had hitherto made their appearance. Thc next day we experienced dreadful gales, which coming over thc bleak and fnow-capt alps to the fouth of us, chilled thc air mofl uncomfortably, and at lafl brought on heavy rains. Thc wind abated thc day following, but fliowcrs and thick fogs continued till thc evening. A N. W. wind then fpringing up, chafed thc clouds from thc Saturdaymountains, &c. The fun arofe in all his fplcndor thc next morning ; thc choir of feathered fongflcrs was heard on all fides for thc firfl time fince our arrival, announcing a mild vernal day, and fummoncd us into the woods. Many of our ofliccrs immediately embraced this opportunity of recreation, and we accompanied captain Cook in a boat, coafl-ing thc fliorcs towards Point Jackfon, and landing from time to time in thc different coves on our way. Thc afternoon was fpent in an excurfion to the Hippah-rock, on which we made a fire to allure thc natives, being very defirous of their company. Wc likewife vifitcd thc cabbage-garden on Motu-Aro, and found thc plants fhot into feed, which had been for thc grcatcfl part confumcd by the birds. In the evening all the fportfmcn returned loaded with birds; thc different boats' crews had collected frcfli fupplies of greens, and thc refl had caught fifh during thc fair weather. All thefc fucccflis contributed to make a kind of general feilival in thc fhip, which the levity of the mariners mariners rendered the more chearful, as every paft difcom- October fort was already forgotten. Having waited in vain another day for the appearance of the natives, wc refolvcd to go in queR of them into the fouthern creeks on thc 24th. That morning, however, at Mwufcy 441 day-break, two canoes appeared oif the point of Shag Cove with their fails fet ; but they were no fooner in fight of the fhip, than the fail was initantly let down, and the people betook themfclves to paddling very fall back again. Their refcrve only made us more defirous to have fome intercourfe with them, as it appeared to be a mark of fear or diflrufl. Captain Cook fet out in his boat with us, and wc came into Shag Cove, where wc paffed fome time (hooting fhags and fca-pics, of which wtc found great numbers. At lad, however, we heard fome fhouts on the fouth fliore of the cove, and coming towards that part, difecrned feveral natives who had retired to the upper part of the hills, whilfl only three or four remained below on a rifing, where feveral huts were concealed in the woods. Here wc found their canoes hauled on thc beach, and immediately landing, made figns for thefe people to come to us. They hcfitated a little ; then one defcended, and having joined nofes with us, the ufual fign of friendihip, the rcR came down, and thofe who had afcended thc higher parts likewife joined us. They were all drefied in fhaggy cloaks, which were old and ragged j their hair hung about their heads in dif- order, 1774. order, and filth and flench announced them even at a dif- October. j tance. We did not remember to have fcen above three or four of them at our former Ray in this found ; but having learnt their names, enquired concerning many of their countrymen who were better known to us. They gave us an anfwer which was infinitely too complex to be intelligible to us ; but we could collect that they fpokc of a battle, and mentioned thc death of fcveral of thc natives. They continued from time to time to afk if wc were dif-plcafcd with them, and fccmcd to be very apprchenfive that our prefent proteflaiions of friend fhip were not quite finccre. Wc fufpefted from this circum fiance, that a fatal mi hinder {landing had happened between thc natives and thc crew of fome European fhip, and we naturally thought of our confort thc Adventure. However, far from confirming the natives in their fears, wc endeavoured by every method to gain their confidence, in which wc fuccceded very well, by waving thc iubjeel; of our difcourfe, and a (king if they had any fifh to fell. They ran to their canoes immediately, and clearing away the mats with which they were covered, produced a vail quantity of fdh, probably < -night thc fame morning. for a few pieces of Taheitian cloth, a nail, fome medals, and a bit of red bai/.c, wc bought a fuflicicnt quantity to fupply our whole (hip's company, and (o far gained thc confidence of thc natives, that they promifed to conic to the (hip thc next day. One of them, of a middle age, who fecmed to be the principal man in this fmall vil- octSbi^ lage, told us his name was Peeterre, and (hewed himfelf thc friendliell of them all. We parted from them, after admiring their bold fpirit, which difdaincd concealment, at thc moment when they were filled with apprehenfions that we fhould take advantage of our fuperiority of numbers. We were indeed ignorant at that time how much reafon they had to dread our refentment, a circumftancc which gives Rill greater Iuflre to their bravciy. They were indeed as good as their word, and came to us Tueftay»Si, at fun-rife the next morning, in five canoes, felling a great quantity of fine fifh, and thus rcfloring affluence on our tables. Having parted with their fifli, they produced a number of pieces of green nephritic flone, wrought into chiflels and various ornaments, which they eagerly exchanger! for Taheitian and Englifli cloth, as well as iron ware. Not content with what they could collect on board, fome of them went to thc beach, where a number of our people were employed in watering, wooding, Sec. and where Mr. Wales had once more fixed his obfervatory. Here they made many acquifitions, and then all went to pafs the night on a neighbouring beach. They rofe at day-break, and caught abundance of fifh, with which they returned to us, continuing to fupply us every day in thc fame manner. Their favourite place of refort was, however, our watering-place \ for there they met with fcveral marines, who took a plcav ocTotj*, a plcafurc in converting with them, as well as they could, for hours together. It appears this kind of familiar inter-courfe fuited their difpofition, for they foon became fo intimate as to impart to their new friends a talc, of which thc particulars were of thc utmoit importance to us. They related, that an European vcflcl had put into the harbour fome time ago ; but that in a quarrel with the inhabitants, all her people had been killed and eaten. This intelligence alarmed us greatly, as wc apprehended that this vcflcl was mofl probably thc Adventure. The natives were repeatedly qucflioned, and in every convcrfation wc difcovercd fome additional circumflanccs, by which thc fact was more clearly cflablifhed. At lafl, however, obferving that our enquiries on this fubjeaft were frequently repeated, they rcfolvcd to give us no farther information, and by threats flopped fliort one of their own brethren, who had been prevailed upon to fpeak once more on thc fubjecT:, Captain Cook being very defirous of obtaining fome certainty concerning the fate of the Adventure, called fceteric and another native into thc cabin, both of whom denied that any harm had been done to the Kuropcans. Wc made two pieces of paper, to reprcfent thc two Clips, and drew thc figure of the Sound on a larger piece ; then drawing thc two fliips into thc Sound, and out of it again, as often as they had touched at and left it, including our lafl departure, we flopped a while, and at lafl proceeded to bring our fhip ihip in again : but the natives interrupted us, and taking up the paper which reprefcnted the Adventure, they brought it into thc harbour, and drew it out again, counting on their fingers how many moons me had been gone. This circumflance gave us two-fold plcafurc, fince at the fame time that wc were perfuaded our con fort had fafcly failed from hence, wc had room to admire thc fagacity of the natives. Still, however, there was fomcthing myRerious in thc former accounts, which intimated that fome Europeans were killed ; and wc continued to doubt whether we had rightly undcrftood this part of their converfation, till wc received more certain intelligence at our return to the Cape of Good Hope. Here wc learnt that our confort had loft a boat with ten men at New Zeeland. Some account of this mclancholv event will, 1 hope, not ho unwelcome to my readers, as I fhall occafionally compare thc ilory of the natives with the reports of our fellow-voyagers. It appears that captain furncaux, after fcparating from us, was obliged, on the oth of November 1773, to put into Tolaga Bay *, on thc northern ifle of New Zeeland, where he lay till the 1 cub. lie then failed towards Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he arrived on the 30th, a few days after our departure. O-Mai, thc native of llaieiea, whom he had on board, told me he was the firft who found thc inieription on thc tree, under which our bottle was buried. He pointed it out to thc captain, and * Sec thc chart of New Zetland, in Ilawkcfvrorih, vol. IF. Voi. 11. Nun the psYtitft. tnc u0ttiC tne letter was immediately found. In confequcncc of this, captain Furneaux made all thc neceflary preparations for the remaining part of his voyage, in as little time as pofliblc. I lis fhip the Adventure was ready to fail, when he fent a boat to Grafs Cove, on thc eaflcrn fliore of thc Sound, in order to gather a load of celery and fcurvy. grafs for thc crew. Mr. Rovvc, thc unfortunate youth who had thc command of this boat, combined with many liberal fentimcnts thc prejudices of a naval education, which induced him to look upon all thc natives of thc South Sea with contempt, and to affume that kind of right over them, with which thc Spaniards, in more baibarous ages, dilpofed of the lives of thc American Indians. After landing in Grafs Cove, his people began to cut greens, and fome in all probability flripped off their cloaths, to perform their talk with greater cafe ; for thc accounts which wc obtained from the natives at Queen Charlottes Sound import, that one of their countrymen Hole a failor's jacket; that our people had hereupon immediately begun to fire, and continued to do fo till all their ammunition was fpent ; that thc natives had taken this opportunity to rufli upon thc Europeans, and had killed every one of them. This relation is very rccon-cilcablc with thc opinion which thc late Mr. Rowc always entertained of thc New Zcclandcrs, viz. that they would never fland thc lire of European mulkctry. He had before, when at Tolaga Bay, been exceeding defirous of firing upon them, them, for having Rolen a fmall keg of brandy from the boat's crew ; but the judicious and humane advice of lieutenant Burney checked his impctuofity. Captain Furneaux finding that his boat did not return the next day, fent Mr. Burney in another boat, well armed, to look after the former. They foon reached thc entrance of Eaft Bay, where they obferved a canoe containing many natives, who at fight of them paddled away as faft as poflible. Our people made after them, but the fear of being taken made the natives jump overboard, and fwim to the fliore. This behaviour alarmed Mr. Burney, and his apprchcnfions were but too fully verified when he came up with the canoe. Here they found fcveral mangled limbs of their comrades, and fome of their cloaths. After rowing about fome time, they came to Grafs Cove, towards feven in the evening, where they faw a confidcrablc number of the natives affemblcd, who fccmcd prepared to oppofc them. The whole hill to the top was covered with crouds of people, as in a fair, and fmokes afcended in fcveral places, where they were probably drefling human flefh. Horror chilled thc failors blood in their veins, but the next moment they glowed with the fierce ardour of revenge, and cooler reafon was obliged to give way to thc powerful impulfe. They fired and killed feveral of thc natives, driving them at lafl, but with great they robbed the wile ofTuboraj Tamaide 1 Tamaide at Taheitee, and feemed at New Zeeland* to think Nov!^. they had a right to the property of thc natives. Indeed their character is very uniform, and cannot well be other-wife from their manner of life; and it may be obfervcd, that their own commanders complain of the fame inhuman propenfity to deflroy the poor harmlefs people of the Soudi Seas, which I have fo frequently obferved in thc courfe of this voyage |. The embargo which was laid on thc trade was the reafon that all thc natives left us on the 4th, except a dnglQ wretched family, who had not been able to catch fifli during thc two lafl days, on account of thc ftormy weather. We found them at thc Indian Cove, feeding on infipid fern-roots, for want of more nutritive food. Each of their huts contained a fire, of which thc fmoke entirely involved them; however, by lying down clofe to thc ground, they were lefs incommoded by the fmoke than if they had fat uptight. Notwithstanding the inconvenience of this fituation, there were not wanting fcveral of our fhipmatcs who readily took up with thc fame lodging, in order to receive the carcfles of the filthy female inhabitants. Perhaps it may be imagined that only brutilh failors could have fuch • Sec Hawkfworth, vol II. p. 103, and 136. Wc may likewife confult vol. III. p. 659, where an inltanccof barbarity is recorded, fimilar to that mentioned in this work, vol. I. p. 2S2. j Sec Hawkd'worth, vol. II. p. 365. groveling Noviuiu groveling appetites; but thc imperious element, on which th^y arc continually toiled about, fcems to level all dif-tincTions. Indeed, when people habitually give full courfe to their unbounded dcfires, it is not furprifmg that they gratify one fenfe at thc cxpence of all thc reft. Thc nations whom we had lately vifitcd in thc New Hebrides, and at New Caledonia, having very wifely declined every indecent familiarity with their guclls, the moft loathfomc objects in a New Xcclander's fmoky and nally hovel, were eagerly addreffed. Satufej s- The next day was very fair, after an interval of bad weather \ captain Cook therefore chofe to make an excur-fion, to trace the end of the found, which Rill remained unknown. Wc fet out in a boar, and advanced a coniider-able way towards fome canoes which were fifhing. At fight of us the people in them left their employment, and paddled away ; but as our crew rowed very briikly, wc foon overtook them, and enquired if they knew a paflage out to fea through thc extremity of thc Sound. They feemed not to undcrftand our qucllion, but offered us fome fifh, which they had jull caught. We purchafed a great quantity, and found thc natives very friendly in their behaviour, they having been on board the fhip a few days before. Receiving no intelligence from them, wc rowed a great way higher, and palled an arm of thc Sound to thc left, and fcveral bay6 and coves on thc right hand. Here meeting meeting with another canoe, which came up towards us, VJ7;4\-we afked the natives concerning the outlet into the fea. They pointed out the left or eaflcrn arm, and told us that the other to the fouth at lafl ended in a bay, which was every where furrounded by mountains. Upon their report we Reeled into the eaflcrn arm, and foon difcovercd a moR fpacious Jay in it, ro the right of which the fhorcs were every w^erc lined with natives. We landed at one of thc n^,d populous places, and falutcd by the nofe the chief and principal j :ople, who fleppcd forward from thc refl. The chief immediately acquainted us that his name was Tringo-Bcohec *. He was a little elderly man, but very active, lively and friendly ; his face was punctured all over in fcrolls, by which he diRinguifhcd himfelf from every one of his countrymen prefent, who were all much lefs disfigured by this operation. The women fat in feveral rows before their huts, and a few of them were known to us, having been on board the fhip fome days before. They all fecmed to be much better fltuated than the fcattered families in thc neighbourhood of our cove; their garb was new and neat, and thc features of fome much lefs difgufling than wc had generally fcen. Perhaps this was owing to their faces being clean, without being covered with paint, foot, or other dirt. The number of men encreafed about uo * Trin^ho fecms to be a kind of title among tbeni, being affiled to fcveral names of their chiefs. every every minute, as wc traded eagerly for fifli, which they were equally eager to fell. Our friend Tringho-BoKcc, however, feemed to diflike the arrival of fo many people, cfpccialiy as thc price of his fifh fell, in proportion as thc market was better fupplied. A great number of them likewife brought their arms and clothes to fell, and mod of them went naked, except a fmall piece of mat girt about the loins, this day being remarkably mild, and the place fheltcred from all winds. After Haying here about a quarter of an hour, captain Cook reimbarked with us, which was the more advifcabic, as many of the natives who arrived lafl, brought their arms, and thc whole croud now amounted to two hundred and upwards, a much greater number than wc had fufpefted thc found to contain, or had ever feen allcmhled together. We had already put off, when a failor acquainted the captain, that he had bought a bundle of fifh from one of tin: natives, for which he had not paid him. Captain Cook took thc lafl nail which was left, and calling to thc native, threw it on the beach at his feet. The lavage being offended, or thinking himfelf attacked, picked up a flonc, and threw it into the boat with great force, but luckily without hitting any one of us. We now called to him again, and pointed to the nail which wc had thrown towards him. As foon ft8 he had feen, and picked it up, he laughed at his own petulance, and fccmcd highly plcafcd with our conduce conduct towards him. This circumftance, with a little Nov LMBER, raQmefs 011 our part, might have become very fatal to us, or might at load have involved us in a dangerous quarrel. If wc had refented thc affront of being pelted with a flonc, thc whole body would have joined in thc caufe of their countryman, and wc mull have fallen an cafy prey to thcir numbers, being at the diflance of five or fix leagues from the fhip, without any hopes of aRiflancc. It was fortunate that wc were not acquainted at that time with the wretched fate of Mr. Rowe and his companions ; clfe the unexpected meeting with fuch a body of natives, would greatly have alarmed us, cfpccially as it appears probable from their fituation, that they acted a principal part in his maffacre. When wc conluler the numerous opportunities which we gave thc natives to cut us oR, by leaving our boats, walking up hills, landing in their populous fettlcmcnts, going among them unarmed, and thc like ; it becomes every moment clearer to me, that their friendfhip is always to be milled, unlcfs it is infringed on our part, and that accordingly they did not cut olf thc Adventure's people without provocation. It muft ncvcrthelcfs be acknowledged, that wc were peculiarly fortunate in our cxcurfions, which Providence always guided in fuch a manner, that wc did not fall unawares into the hands of any families of the natives, with whom we had not concluded a previous treaty of peace. Vol.11. ? P P Thc The people at this place agreed with thofe to whom we had fpoken in the canoe, that thc arm which wc had entered communicated with thc fea. We continued our route accordingly, and obferved after fome turnings, that the inlet ran to the northward, at the back of Grafs Cove, and Eaff Bay. Wc found in it many coves and beaches, with greens, and plenty of wild fowl; the water was perfectly fmooth, and the mountains formed many romantic prof-pects, being clothed with fine forefls. Having advanced about three leagues from Tringo-Boohcc's fcttlement, which thc natives call Ko-Haghec-nooee, wc began to fee many fliags, with a double creil, a fpecies which always builds in thc vicinity of thc fea. A few moments afterwards wc alfo faw breakers at thc farther end of thc inlet, which fully confirmed the accounts of thc natives. On the left, or at thc back of Grafs Cove, wc faw a bippah, built on a high rock which Rood in a manner infulatcd, on a fine fpot of level land. The whole fort was furrounded with many tall poles, and appeared to be in very good order. Having left it at fome dhlancc, (for it lay in a kind of bay) we faw the outlet into Cook's Strait, and found it a very narrow palfagc j before it lay many dangerous and lofty rocks, upon which a dreadful furf broke continually. In thc paflage, or gap itfclf, we had thirteen fathom of water, and obfervcd a Rrong tide running pall. Wc had a fair view from hence of thc northern iiland, ifland, and of the ftrait through which we were to pafs vmHit into the South Sea for the lad time. It was about four o'clock when we made this difcovery, but having the wind againfl: us, or at leaR very uncertain, we were obliged to return the fame way we came, inftead of going round cape Koamaroo, which would have favcd us much time. As wc knew of fuch a numerous tribe of natives living in this neighbourhood, wc did not venture to Ray a night on fliore ; but pafling the Hippah, and Ko-Haghee-nooee, arrived fafe on board about ten o'clock at night, having faded the whole time, and being thoroughly fatigued with our long cxcurfion. Thc new channel which we had now difcovercd, is indicated as a bay in captain Cook's map of the Straits, infertcd in his former voyage, he being at that time unacquainted with its outlet into the fea. The weather was rather dull thc next day; however, our Sunday «. friend Pccterrc returned with his family to vifit us. Captain Cook took him into thc cabin, and drcflcd him in a fliirt, Rockings, breeches, and coat, as a mark of friendfhip for his afliduity in fupplying us with fifli. Pectcrrc fccmcd highly delighted with his new drefs, and valued himfelf upon being in favour with us. As he was consented with thefe prefents, lie did not venture to beg for any others, but behaved with great moderation. lie accompanied us to Long Ifland, where wc paRcd fome time in (hooting, and then returned on board to dinner, of which P p p 2 Pcctcrrc Pceterrc partook with peculiar good manners, confidering his education. It is fcarcc to be doubted, that he felt the fupcriority of our knowledge, of our arts, manufactures, and mode of living, in fome degree, efpccially as lie was always remarkably in good fpirits when amongfl us ; but notwithstanding all this, he never once cxprcfTed a defire of going with us; and when wc propofed it to him, he declined it, preferring the wretched precarious life of his countrymen, to all thc advantages of which he faw us poffeffed. I have already mentioned in another place", that this way of thinking is common to all favages ; and I might have added, that it is not entirely obliterated among polifhcd nations. The force of habit no where appears more ftrikingly than in fuch inflanccs, where it fcems alone to counterbalance thc comforts of a civilized life. Pcctcrrc returned on fhorc with his comrades in the evening, but came to fell us fifh again the next day. Wc frequently heard him and the refl of thc natives finging on ihorc, and were fometimes favoured with a fong when they vifitcd us on board. Their mufic is far fupcrior in Variety to that of thc Society and Friendly I Hands; and if any nation of thc South Sea comes in competition with them in this refpeft, I fliould apprehend it to be that of Tanna. Thc fame intelligent friend who favoured mc with a fpecimen of • Sec p. 53. thc thc fongs at Tonga-Tabboo, (fee vol. I. p. 429), has likewife NovTE7^ obligingly communicated to mc another of the New Zee-land mufic, which will be fuflicient to give an idea of the tafte of the people. He did not vifit the iiland of Tanna, but allured me that there appeared to be fome difplay of genius in the New Zeeland tunes, which foarcd very far above the wretched humming of the Tahcitian, or even the four notes of thc people at thc friendly Iflands. Of this tunc they continue to fing the two firfl bars till the words of their fong are at an end, and then they clofe with thc lafl. Sometimes they alfo fing an under-part, Which is is a third lower, except the two lafl notes, which arc unifons. Thc fame gentleman likewife took notice of a kind of dirge-like melancholy fong, relating to thc death of Tupaya. This fong was chiefly practifed by thc inhabitants round Tolaga Day, on thc northern iiland, where the people feem U) have had a high regard for that Taheitian. There is an extreme fimplicity in the words, though they feem to he metrically metrically arranged, in fuch a manner, as to cxprefs the feelings of the mourners, by their flow movement. aghec, matte awhay Tupaya ! Departed, dead, alas! Tupaya ! The firft cRufions of grief arc not loquacious; the only idea to which we can give utterance is that of our lofs, which takes the form of a complaint. Whether the fimplicity of the tunc is equally agreeable, or well judged, is a que 11 ion which I cannot pretend to determine. Thc con-noiffcurs in mufic muft acquit or condemn thc New Zcclandcrs. A-guee matte a-wliay Tu-pa ya. They defcend at thc clofe from c to thc ocTavc below in a fall, rcfcmbling the Hiding of a finger along the fingerboard on thc violin. I (hall now difmifs this fubjecT with thc following obfervation, that the taflc for mufic of the New Zeelandcrs, and their fupcriority in this refpecT toother nations in the South Seas, are to me flronger proofs, in favour of their heart, than all thc idle eloquence of philo-fophers in their cabinets can invalidate. They have violent paflions; but it would be abfurd to alien that thefc only lead them to inhuman cxccflcs. We 177+-novembir. Wc continued to make feveral excurfions along fliore, and to the iflands in the Sound, till the 9 th of November. In this interval we made fuch additions to our botanical and zoological collecfions, as could hardly have been ex-peeked at fo early a feafon, and after fearching the fame woods fo many times. We collected ten or twelve fpecies of plants, and four or five forts of birds, which we had not feen before. Our crew afliduoufly filled all our water-cafks, cut a great quantity of wood, repaired the rigging, and fitted thc ihip once more to encounter thc fury of fouthern gales. The quantity of fdh which the natives daily brought for falc, allowed us to fait fo many as to fill fcveral cafks with them, which fcrved as a fca-Rock during our paffagc to Ticrra del Fucgo, kept extremely well, and were very palatable to moft people. Thc latter part of our flay was likewife employed in laying in an ample provifion of fliags, cormorants, and fuch other birds as wc could find, in order that we might prolong as much as pofliblc the term of living on frefh food. On the 9th, in thc afternoon, we unmoored, and rode all night at a Angle anchor, which wc weighed the next morning at four, thus leaving New Zeeland a third time in the courfe of one voyage. As often as we had vifitcd this country, it bad abundantly fupplicd us with refrcfh-ments, which were particularly efficacious in rcfloring our hcahh, and banifliing thc fymptoms of thc fcurvy. Not Not only well-tailed antifcorbutic plants, bat likewife the fifh, which arc eafily digeflcd, feem to me to have been equally falutary rcflorativcs. Thc keen air which is felt in New Zeeland, on the finefl days, contributed not a little to brace our fibres, relaxed by a long cruize in warmer climates, and thc ftrong exercife wc took was doubtlefs beneficial in many rcfpccTs. From hence it happened that wc always left that country with new vigour. If we came in ever fo pale and emaciated, thc good cheer which wc enjoyed during our flay, foon rekindled a glow of health on our checks, and wc returned to thc fouth, like our fhip, to all outward appearance, as clean and found as ever, though in reality fomcwhat impaired by thc many hard rubs of thc voyage. Perhaps it may be attributed in part to thc hcalthincfs of the air, thc fimplicity of food, and particularly its eafy di-geftion and great abundance, that thc natives have attained a tall llature, arc muicular, well proportioned *, and well formed. It appears indeed from many circumfhmces, that fifh arc fo innumerable on their coafls, as to fupply them with conflant food, in fuRicicnt quantity throughout the year, efpeoially as M. Crozet and ourfelves obferved that they had laid up a plentiful lhaic of dried fifh for thc winter. * Except their legs, which arc ill-rhapeJ, fiom their mcJc of lining. C II A P. 1774-November.. CHAP. V. The courfe from New Zeeland to Tierra del Fuego.—Stay at Cbrijlmas Harbour, Barbara praeruptis inclufa eft (infula) faxis: Horrida, defcrtis umlique vafta locis. Umbrarum nullo vcr eft laetabile fcetu, Nullaquc in infauito nafcitur hcrba folo, Seneca. \ X 7E cleared Cook's Strait on thc 1 oth in the afternoon Thurfday io, after pafling within a few leagues of thc new inlet, which wc had difcovercd previous to our departure. Wc were becalmed all the next day in fight of thc land, and did not obtain a breeze till towards evening. On thc 12th in thc morning wc were out of fight of land, and Rccrcd away between thc fouth and call, towards Ticrra del Fucgo. Wc entered upon this navigation with more chcarfulncfs, than upon thc lad fouthern cruize. We were pcrfuaded that no land lay in our way to retard our progrefs ; thc weflcrly winds, which prevail in thefe latitudes, were in our favour ; and wc knew that the hardlhips of thc voyage were drawing to an end. Indeed we looked upon ourfelves as already fafe from perils, and the hope of rcvifit-1 uropc, after many hazardous tracks and narrow \'oi II. (-ijl (1 cfcapes, liftttMm. cfcapcs, fecmed to animate us with new Promethean fire. The run from New Zeeland to Ticrra del Fit ego furpailed our warmed expectations, and, confulering the conflruction of our fliip, which was always reckoned a dull failor, was indeed one of the quickcfl paffages which can be imagined, as we made one day with another upwards of forty leagues. Wc faw a whale on thc 12th, about twelve yards long, with an oblong blunt head, on which were two longitudinal furrows, and as many upright ridges. It had fmall eyes, two fcmilunar apertures, from whence it occafionally fpoutcd thc water, and was mottled all over with white fpots. It had two large fins behind thc head, but none on the back. This extraordinary creature fecms to have been intircly unknown before. We had fptung a leak on going out of Queen Charlotte's Sound, which wc difcovercd on the 14th ; but it gave us very little uncalincfs, as the water in thc pump-well encreafed only five inches in eight hours. The weflcrly winds blew with ailonifhing violence, and the breadth of thc ocean being very confiderable, thc billows encreafed to an im-menfe fize, and fecmed to he fometimes feveral hundred yanb. long. The fhip rolled very difagrecably when thc wind was quite aft ; and though it has been fuppofed that a fhip's inclination in the grcatcil roll never exceeds twenty degrees, we have obfervcd it inclined above thirty, and fcveral times even to forty degrees. During During this run we faw birds of the albatrofs, petrel, No^";E and pinguin kinds, almofl every day, and cfpecially at equal diflances from New Zeeland and America, which are about fifteen hundred leagues afundcr. On the 27th of November we made a greater run than ever was made in our Riip before, which confiRcd of 184 miles by thc log. On the 2d of December, after a fliort calm, wc had a becembei frdh breeze, which continued to blow without intermilTion, but with different degrees of velocity, till the 18th, when Bwrfsy we made the land, a little after midnight, near Cape De-feado, on one of the wcflermoft iflands of Ticrra del Fucgo. Thc filh which we had faked at New Zeeland had laflcd during the whole run, and wc had found great benefit from living upon them preferably to fait beef and pork, which was now fo univcrfally loathed, that captain Cook himfelf declared he fliould probably never cat it again widi any degree of fatisfaction. The four-krout had been con-fhmtly ufed in thc mean while, and thc wort had been taken as a preiervative by many perfons in thc fhip. The former was flill as good as ever, but thc malt was much damaged, and had loll part of its efficacy, by having been put up in green unfeafoned calks. I drank plentifully of it, but was notwiihflanding aillicled with conlidcrable fuelling! in the legs, attended with pains, which returned from time to time. Qjj q 2 The Thc part of thc world which was now in fight had a very unfavourable afpecl. About three o'clock in the morning we ran along it, and found it for the greater! pare hid in a thick haze. Thc parts near us feemed to be fmall iflands, which though not very high, were however very black, and almofl entirely barren. Beyond them we faw fome broken high lands, which were covered with fnow, almofl to thc water's edge. Great flocks of fhags, fhcar-watcrs, fkuas, and other water-fowl, in fome meafurc made amends for thc de folate appearance of thc coall, as they gave us great hopes that we mould meet with refreshments, if wc could find a harbour. Few countries that wc touched at are fo wretchedly dcllitutc, as not to have afforded us fome fupply of food, cither animal or vegetable, by thc al-fillance of which wc made fliift to keep ourfelves free from a high degree of thc fcurvy and other diflcmpcrs. In thc afternoon wc paflcd the ifland, upon which Cape Noir is fltuated, mentioned by M. 1 rczicr. Thc view which he gives of the land correfponded very well with what we faw j and to the N, E. there appeared to be a long inlet, which is doubt lefs thc channel of St. Barbara. In thc Spanifh charts this extremity of Ticrra del Fuego has long fince been very accurately laid down as divided into many iflands and channels, which have been explored, and each in particular named, by their early navigators. One of of the bed charts of this kind accompanies the Spanifli n translation of the anonymous account of Mr. Byron's Voyage round the World, by Dr. Cafimir Gomez Ortega, Agreeably to their difcoveries, we found many feparate iflands, from the place where wc made the coad to Cape Noir, and fliould perhaps have fcen many more, if thc weather had not been very hazy. Wc found thc land to all appearance much more compact after palling Cape Noir; and the next morning in. Mondays particular, thc coall fecmed to be entirely connected ; the mountains rofe to a much greater height, immediately from the fea-fidc, and were covered with fnow in every part. Thc wind gradually lcflcncd, and towards noon wc were entirely becalmed, having thc fined fun-fliine, and mild weather. Many forts of water-birds appeared about us from time to time, and fcveral feals alfo fported in the water. In the afternoon about thirty grampuffes were feen playing about us, chiefly fwimming in couples. Another calm fuccccded again thc next day, though we had T«efdty«w had an caflerly wind during a part of the preceding afternoon. It was very amufmg to us, to meet with mild weather in thc neighbourhood of that tempeduous cape, of which the name alone has affrighted thc mariners, ever fince lord Anfon's voyage. Thc dcflruetion of vulgar pre -judiccs is of fo much fervicc to fcience, and to mankind in general, that it cannot fail of giving plcafurc, to every one fcnfiblc. fenfible of its benefits. We had this day thc thermometer at 4S0 which, confidering thc neighbourhood of thc huge heaps of fnow on fliore, was very moderate. This part of the world has been called the Coafl of Dcfolation by the navigators who firfl vifitcd it, and feem8 fully to deferve thc appellation. Here we difecrned nothing but vail mountains, of which the fpiry fummits were every where covered with eternal fnow. Along thc fea, the neareft rocks were clear of fnow, but black, and deilitute of gralfes or fhrubbery. Some inlets appeared in different parts, where a few iflands feemed to have a covering of green. We Rood in to one of thefe in the evening, having then obtained an eaflcrly breeze. A huge perpendicular wall of rock formed its weflcrn entrance, and captain Cook called it thc York Minllcr, having difcovercd a llrong rcfcmblancc between that Gothic building, and this dreary chaotic rock. It lies in 550 30'S. and 70° 28 W, Along the coafl wc found regular foundings, but in thc mouth of the inlet, we could not reach the bottom with one hundred and fifty fathom of line. This circumflancc had already happened to us before at Duflcy liay (vol. 1. p. 123); but as wc faw a very fpacious found before us, wc ventured to Rand on, amidll different rude iflands, on which the fummits of hills were fometimes capt with fnow. A boat was hoifled out, in which my father accompanied fome of thc lieutenants, who endeavoured to flioot birds, but brought only one \ one on board. After being much retarded by calms, we DhJe7mke* arrived about nine o'clock in a fmall cove, indifferently fheltered cither from wind or fea, but a welcome place of refuge on account of the approach of night. Here, then we dropped thc anchor, which had been a weigh only forty-one days, during which wc had croRcd the South Sea in its full extent, from New Zeeland to Cape Defeado. Thc next morning captain Cook, accompanied by feveral WedncfJ-: officers, as well as my father, Dr. Sparrman, and myfelf, went in a boat in qucfl of a more fare and convenient anchorage. We only rowed round a (ingle point of thc ifland under which our fhip lay, and immediately found a fine cove fheltered from all winds, and perfectly land-locked, with a little rill of water, and a fhrubbcry. Thc weather was mild confidering the climate, and fcveral birds were heard on the fhore. Wc found many little clefts, which cannot properly be called vallies, where a few fhrubs of different fpecies, fprung up in a thin layer of fwampy foil, being defended againfl the violence of norms, and expofed to the genial influence of reverberated fun-beams. "I he rock of which thc whole ifland confided, is a coarfe granite, compofed of fcld-fpath, quartz, and black mica or glimmer. This rock h in moft places entirely naked, without the fmallcll vegetable particle; but wherever thc rains, or melted fnOW9 have wafhed together fome little rubbifh, and other particles in decay, it is covered with a coating of minute plants, plants, in growth like moffes, which forming a kind of turf, about an inch or more in thickncfs, very eafdy flip away under thc foot, having no firm hold on thc rock. In fheltered places a few other plants thrive among thefc mofTy fpecies, and thefe at laft form a fuflicient quantity of foil, for the nutriment of fhrubs, efpccially in fuch fpots as I have mentioned before. Among them we immediately found thc fpecies, thc bark of which captain Winter difcovercd to be an excellent aromatic, known in thc fhops by the name of Winter's bark, but frequently, till of late, confounded with a very different plant, the candla albay of Jamaica. This Winter's bark-tree grows on the fhores of the ffraits of Magalhaens, and on the caflcrn parts of Ticrra del fucgo, to a (lately fize; but in this barren part wc never faw it under any other form than that of a fhrub, about ten feet high, crooked and fhape lefs. Barren as thefe rocks appeared, yet aim oft every plant which wc gathered on them was new to us, and fome fpecies were remarkable for the beauty of their flowers, or their fmell. A new fpecies of gcefe, a tort of (hags, thc black oyilcr-catchcrs, or lea-pics, and feveral other birds dwelt along the fhores, which were lined with immenfe floating beds of rock weeds. At our return, all our people began to remove thc fhip into her new (ituath n, where flic was m 00 red in the afternoon. A few fmall fifh, of a new fpecies of end. were caught among thc weeds; but in general every attempt to fupply the table DtcuuK. by fiQiing proved unfuccefsful. Early the next morning, captain Cook fet out to take bearings in the found, and we took that opportunity of examining its natural productions. The found is very fpa-cious, and furrounded to the north and eafl by feveral ranges of high mountains, which feem covered with permanent fnow and ice. In thc bay itfelf are fcveral iflands of con-fidcrablc elevation, though not equal to the height of thc main land, of which only the higheR have fome fnow on their very fummits. That under which our fhip lay at anchor, was free from fnow, though it fecmed to be at leafl: two hundred yards perpendicular in height. Befidcs thefc high iflands, wc obfervcd fcveral, from ten to twenty yards high, which lay in the northern part of thc found, and appeared to be almofl covered with verdure at a diftance. Wc directed our courfe to one of thefc, about three miles off, of which the modes and fhrubs, upon nearer examination, fecmed to have been burnt in fcveral places. The rock was here a kind of yellowifh flate, which lay in horizontal flrata, covered with a much thicker flratum of foil, than wc had feen on thc other ifland. Among thc plants which grew on it, wc picked up fome new ones, and on its fliorea met with a new fort of ily-catchcr, which lived Upon fhell-fifh and worms, and feemed for that purpofe to be furnilhed with a much ftronger bill, than the birds of Vol. h\ ftf* that that genus commonly have. Rowing round one end of this ifland, we obfervcd a fhrubbery, or little grove on a point of land, in the fhade of which flood feveral empty huts. They refembled in fhape that which is defcribed and drawn in the Endeavour's voyage *, with this difference, that they were not covered with fcals-fkins, which arc perhaps put on occafionally, and deemed too valuable to be left behind. They were only fkeletons of huts, confiding of boughs of trees, which for thc grcatcd part had frefh green foliage on them; a fign that the natives had but lately made them. On entering this found, and taking notice of its dreary, de folate appearance, we had fuppofed that thc natives of Tierra del Fucgo, never touch upon this in-hofpitable part, but confine themfclves to thc neighbourhood of thc Straits of Magalhacns, and to the caflcrn fide of Ticrra del Fucgo; but it fecms that human nature is capable of withflanding thc grcatcd inclemencies of weather, and of fupporting its cxidence alike in thc burning find:, of Africa, and in thc frozen extremities of thc globe. We landed on fcveral other iflands, from whence wc had a mod cxtcnfive view acrofs the found, which looked wild and horrid in its wintcry drefs. This was however, the firfl fummcr month of thefc regions ; mod of the plants wc faw were in dower, and thc birds were every where bringing up their young. From thence wc may eafily form an * Sec H.iwkcfwortli, vol, II. adequate adequate idea of the torpid (late of thefe regions, where Dt*V£\ the fun-beams cannot melt the fnow, at a feafon when their influence is thc ilrongcfl. The farther we advanced from the fea, thc more fnow appeared on the mountains. In fome places wc faw cafcades, and Rreams gufhing down over the fnow, cfpccially where thc rays of thc fun took effect by being frequently rcflc&cd. We found a mofl beautiful cove on this coafl, which formed a circular baton, where thc water was fmooth and tranfparent as a mirror. All thc lower parts were fringed with trees, which wc had no where feen fo tall in thc neighbourhood, and many flrcams rufhed down with great impctuofity between their roots, making a mofl convenient watering-place. A prodigious number of fmall birds fat on every branch, and twittered around us in thc fun fhinc. They were of many different fpecic?, but unacquainted with men, hopped fo near us, that it was impofliblc to fhoot them, cfpccially as wc had now no other than coarfc fliot left, and that in very fmall quantity. Abundance of moflcs, ferns, and climbers grew up between thc trees, and were no fmall impediment to us in walking. Various flowers enlivened thefe woods, and encreafed our collection with new fpecies. Here then there was thc appearance of fummer; but if wc looked ftp to the monflrous cloud-capt mountains which formed almofl perpendicular walls on all fides of thc harbour, and beheld them covered with fnow and ice, which had fomc- R r r 2 times 49- A VOYAGE ROUND THE W O R L D. times a blue, and fometimes a yellowifh tinge, we thought ourfelves tranfportcd to thc Glaciers of Switzerland, where the feafons feem likewife to be loft, and confounded in each other. Thc height of thefc mountains was very confidcrablc, though not equal to thc Alps, and their fummits were divided into many Riarp and craggy points, between which rhe interval was fdled with fnow. We landed here, and walked along thc fliore to another port, formed by a number of low iflands, which entirely flicltcrcd it from all winds. Here wc met with feveral fpecies of wild ducks, and particularly one of the fize of a goofe, which ran along thc furface of thc fea with amazing velocity, beating thc water with its wings and feet. -ftlgtt ilia per undtl Ocyor ctjaculo, ct ventos arquank- fagitt.i, Vircii.. Indeed its motion was fo quick, that wc faw it was in vain to attempt to (hoot at it; a more favourable opportunity was therefore eagerly wifhed for. In the fequei we really obtained feveral fpecimens of this curious bird, which rcfcmblcd a duck, except in the fize, and in thc extreme mortnefs of its wings. It had a grey plumage, with a few white quill-feathers ; a yellow bill and feet, and two large, naked, callous knobs of the fame colour, upon the joint of each wing, at thc alula. Ottr failors called it a race-horfc, from its vafl fwiftnefs ; but in the Falkland Falkland Iflands, thc EngliRi have given it the name of loggerhcad-duck *. Befides this fpecies, we found numbers of thc great gull or fkua, which had their neils among fome dry grafs on one of the iflands. We were fortunate enough to meet with an ifland entirely covered with the fhrubs of a fpecies of arbutus, loaded with red fruit, of the fize of fmall cherries, which were very well tailed, and combined an agreeable tartnefs with a fwect and a bitter flavour. The rocks of thc fame ifland, at the waters edge, were covered with large mufclc-fhclls, of which we found thc fifh more delicious than oyflcrs. On thefe two articles, with thc help of a few bifcuits, and a little piece of falt-becf, wc dined luxurioufly, amidll thc dreary rocks of a county, which at firft fight did not feem likely to furnifh fuch an entertainment. To add to our good fur-tune, wc met with fcveral iflands in our return, covered with excellent celery, which, though much fmallcr than that of New Zeeland, was much higher flavoured, its juices being probably more concentrated. Wc loaded our boat with it, and returned late on board, after being overtaken by fcveral fmart ihowcrs. On our return, we found that thc neighbourhood of thc fhip was very fenfibly warmer than thc northern parts of thc found, where the air was rcfrigrated by the abundance of fnow on the mountains. ■ Sec thc Philosophical Tranfc&ioiw, vol. LXVI. part i. One One of thc lieutenants returned the fame evening from an .December. exciufion to the north-weflward, whither he had been fent by captain Cook to take the bearings of thc land. f:khy t3. The next day was fo fine and mild, that fcveral gentle- men walked acrofs thc ifland under which the fhip lay at anchor, and (hot many little birds in their cxcurfion. Mr. 1 lodges took a draught of the wdiole found from the height, which has a moll picturefque appearance in that point of view. It has been engraved for captain Cook's account of this voyage j and the print is remarkable for the figure cf a falcon in thc fore-ground, which, from is fupcrnatural (i/.c, fecms to rcfcmblc thc rukh, celebrated in the Arabian Tales, more than any bird of lefs fanciful dimentions. Wc met with a mofl beautiful fpecies of hawk on Ticrra del Fucgo, about the C/.e of the falcon gentil, brown, with a black ere (I, and thc neck and fhoulders barred with a grey and chocolate colour; the figure above mentioned may perhaps be meant for this fpecies. * We accompanied thc captain this morning on an cxcurfion round the iiland under which thc fhip lay at anchor, whilil he fent lieutenant I'iekcrfgill to explore another part of thc bay. The trouble of this day wc thought well rewarded by a great number of fhags which we fhot among the rocks, where they had built their ncfls by thoufmds. The powet of inllinct had commonly impelled them tochoofe for this purpofe fuch places where the rocks project over the fea, fea, or where at leaR they rife perpendicular; that in cafe Di£m their young fhould happen to fall out, they might take no hurt by dropping only in the water. The flate of which the rocjc confided in this part was not very hard; but it is nevertheless very furprifing that thefe birds have found means to make holes in it, or even to enlarge its natural cavities fo much, as to make room for their offspring in them. Thefc fhags always returned to their nefls immediately after wc had fired, and flew fo heavily, that we found not much difficulty to fhoot them on thc wing, Thc French at the Falkland Iflcs have called thefe birds nigauds, or ninnies, on account of their feeming flupidity, which could hardly be taught to fhun dcflruction *. Bcfidcs thefc, wc alfo brought on hoard three gcefc which we had fliot on this cxcurfion, and which were very remarkable, on account of thc difference of colour between the male and female. Thc gander was fomcwhat lefs than a common tame goofe, and perfectly white, except thc feet, which were yellow, and thc bill, which was black. Thc goofe, on the contrary, was black, with white tranfverfc bars, a grey head, fome green, and fome white quill-feathers. It ihould feem that nature hath very wifely ordered this disparity ; for the female being oblij^d to lead the young brood, its graver colour does not fo cafdy difcover them to * Sec Dom Pernctty's Voyage to thc Malouincs. falcons falcons and other birds of prey. I would only hint this as a fuppofition which requires farther confirmation; perhaps our undcrflanding is much too fliort-lighted to ailign, on fuch flight grounds, the true ways of Divine Providence in the wonderful works of thc creation. After wc had returned on board, lieutenant Pickerfgill arrived, who had met with a cove on thc caRern fliore of the found, where a prodigious number of gecfc had taken up their refidence. Captain Cook being defirous to procure fome kind of rcfrcflunent for his people, and to enable them to fpend their Chrillmas-day with chcarfulncfs, proceeded towards thai place the next morning, and fent Mr. Pickerfgill thither in another boat by a different route. My father, Dr. Sparrman, myfelf, and one midfliipman, accompanied the captatQ in the pinnace. Wc flood out to fea, along an ifland to the call of the fhip, which Uy between us and the Goofe Gpve. It happened very fortunately that we took tliis courfe, without which wc fhould probably have made a very unfuccefsful cxcurfion. But along thc whole fouthern extremity of the iiland, extending at lcall four or five miles, wc faw prodigious numbers of gecfc, which fullered us to come clofe to them. We perceived that they were1, for the grcatcll part, young birds of the lafl year's brood, which moulted their feathers in this place, and having loft their quill-feathers, could not fly to any great diflance. if \vc had been apprifed of thi* circumilunec at firfl, W« might VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD. 49 7 might have taken greater fpoils than we did; however, Dec'e7 after toiling till funfet, we had collected no lefs than fixty-three geefe, which enabled us to give a frefh meal to every man on board. The fport of the day was extremely entertaining ; for though the object of our million was variety, yet our principles were not yet Sufficiently fanctified, to re-fufe a good meal when it was offered *. We found many deep caverns in thc rock, which vaulted fometimes thirty yards over our heads; and the fwell being rather moderate, we could often enter into thefc dark places with the boat, and were always amply rewarded for our trouble by meeting with a number of birds. Several of thefe caverns were * forty or fifty yards in length, and the rocky walls, about their entrance, were commonly thc abode of fhags, to which we paid no attention at prefent. The flatc of which many of thefe rocks confift had likewife huge chafms and crevices, which commonly proved fatal to the gecfc, as they could fcldom fly over, but fell between them, and were taken up alive by our failors, to whom this employment was an inexhaufliblc fund of divcrfion. It was late in thc evening when wc arrived on board, where wc found lieutenant Pickerfgill, who had difcovercd a fmall ifland in his way, almofl entirely covered with thc eggs of fea fwallows or terns. He brought away about three hundred of them, which were in general very fit to be eaten. • Sec Hiwvkcfworth, vol. III. p. 502. Vol. II. S s s During dicJIcm*. During our abfencc fome of the natives, in four fmall canoes, had vifited the fhip; they were defcribed to us as wretched and poor, but inoRenfive, and ready to part with their fpears, fcal-fkins, and thc like. Wc now regretted that we had loR the opportunity of feeing them, but fortunately they returned the next morning, though thc weather was rainy. The four canoes in which they came were made of thc bark of trees, which could hardly have grown in this found, on account of their fize. Several fmall Ricks are the ribs which dillcnd this bark, and another Rick forms the gunwale, over which they have wrapped thc extremity of the bark, and fewed it on. A few flones, with a fmall quantity of earth, arc laid in the bottom of each canoe, and on this thc natives keep a conflant fire. Their paddles are fmall, and rudely formed, and they work very Rowly with them. Each canoe contained from live to eight, perfons, including children, who, contrary to thc cullom of all the nations in thc South Sea, were very fdent in their approach to the fhip, and when along fide, hardly pronounced any other word than pejftray. Thofe whom M. dc Bougainville law in the Strait of Magclhacns, not far from hence, ufed the lame word, from whence he gave them the general name of Pcchcrais. Wc beckoned to them to come into the Clip, and fome accepted thc invitation, though without the lcafl fign of being plcafcd, and fcciningly without thc to al left-degree of curiofhy. Their perfons were fhort, not exceeding ing five feet fix inches at moft, their heads large, the face broad, thc cheek-bones very prominent, and the nofe very flat. They had little brown eyes, without life their hair was black and lank, hanging about their heads in disorder, and befmcarcd with train-oil. On thc chin they had a few (haggling fliort hairs inflcad of a beard, and from their nofe there was a conflant difchargc of mucus into their ugly Op6n mouth. The whole aRemblagc of their features formed thc mod loathfomc picture of mifcry and wretched-nefs to which human nature can poflibly be reduced. Mr. Hodges made a moft excellent drawing of one of the men, which is extremely characteriftic, and the print which Mr. Dafirc has executed after it, for captain Cook's account of this voyage, is a proof of his confummate (kill. The flioul-ders and cheft were broad and bony, but thc reft of thc figure was fo thin and fhrivcllcd, that to have fcen it fepa-ratc, wc could not have fuppofed it belonged to the fame perfon. Their legs were lean and bowed, and their knees difproportionatcly large. They had no other clothing than a fmall piece of old fcal-fkin, which hung from their ihouldcrs to thc middle of thc back, being fattened round the neck with a firing. Thc reft of their body was pcr-fcetly naked, not thc Icafl regard being paid to what Europeans would term decency. Their natural colour appeared to be an olive-brown, with a kind of glofs, which has really fome rcfcmblancc to that of copper ; but many S s s 2 of SJSi«. of them had difguifed themfelves with flreaks of red paint, and fometimes, though feldom, with white ; from whence it mould feem evident, that the ideas of ornament are of a more ancient date with mankind, than thofe of fliamc and modcfly. The women were nearly formed as the men, though fomcwhat lefs in Raturc ; their features were not lefs uncouth and ugly, and their drefs exactly the fame. They had only added a fmall piece of fcal-ikin, not fo large as thc palm of the hand, which hung down before, fixed to a firing, which was tied about thc waift. Round their necks rhcy wore leather firings, on which they had hung a numbci of ihells ; and on their heads they had a kind of bonnet, confiding of a few white quill feathers of gecfe, which they occafionally placed upright on thc head, by that means giving them a rcfcmblancc to the French hcad-dreRcs of the lad century *. There was but a fingle pcrfon among them, who had a fmall piece of a guanaco's fkin fewed on his fcal-fkin, to lengthen it. The children were perfectly naked, and, like their mothers, huddled about thc fire in each canoe, ihivcring continually with cold, and rarely uttering any other word than peffiray, which fometimes founded like a word of endearment, and fometimes fccmcd to be thc cxpreflion of complaint. Thofe of thc men who had come on deck, fpokc a few other words, which contained many confonants and gutturals, particularly thc // of thc • Funtanget, Welch i Welch ; and all feemed to lifp very Rrongly, which contributed to make them wholly unintelligible. They accepted triiles, fuch as beads, without fecming to value them, but at the fame time they alfo gave away their own arms, or even their ragged feal-fkins, without the leaif concern; their whole character being thc flrangeR compound of ilu-pidity, indiflcrence, and inactivity. They had no other arms than bows and arrows ; the former were made of a kind of berberry wood, very fmall and ill-fliaped; and the latter of a different wood, between two and three feet long, feathered at one end, and not pointed. Thc points are put on occafionally, and they carried them in little feal-fkin fatchels, and parted only with a fmgle one, which was a wretched irregular triangle of black (late. Befidcs thefc they have fiili-gigs, of which thc ftaffs are about ten feet long, of equal thicknefs, but angular inRcad of being round, and provided at one end with a iharp bone about a foo: long, which has a fingle barb on one fide, and is occafionally tied on. Thefe inRruments they employ to take ihclls from the rocks, according to the accounts of former voyagers *. All thofe gefturcs, which the moR wretched nation in the South Sea had eafily undcrflood, were made to them in vain ; they fccmcd not to have the mofl diflant idea of teaching us their language, and having probably * Sec Hawkcfworth, vol. II. p. 56. no no eager defire of poflciling any thing which they faw amongft us, they were not follicitous to make themfelves intelligible. All thofe who had made the voyage in thc Endeavour agreed, that the people whom they had fcen at Succefs Bay, lived much more comfortably and happily than thefe wretched outcalis * ; and upon comparing my account with the publifhcd narrative of that voyage, it will cafdy appear, that thc Pechcrais of Succcfs Bay were confiderably more civilized (if I may make ufe of this term) than thofe who fell under our obfervation. Their llature was taller ; they had contrived bufkins, which fecured then feet ; they appeared to be fcnlible of the excellence of fcveral European goods, and to fet a value upon them ; lallly, they were more communicative, and had ideas of ceremony or civility ; whereas thofe wc law, at thc fame time that they felt thc inclemency of thc weather, were yet toollupid, too indolent, or too wretchedly dellitute of means to guard againfl it. They fccmcd totally infcnfibic of thc fuperiority of our lit nation, and did not once, with a fmglc gcflurc, exprefs their admiration of the (hip, and its many great and remarkable objects. I cannot figure to myfelf a more un-happy human being, than one who fecms to be fo far deprived of reafon, as not to defend himfelf againfl the injuries ol weather, whilll he fevcrcly feels its effects ; and J Bff Ihwkciworth, vol. li. p. 54. who who is incapable of combining ideas, and comparing bis own ncccRitous fituation with that of others more happy than himfelf. If ever the pre-eminence of a civilized life over that of the favage could have been rcafonably dif-puted, wc might, from thc bare contemplation of thefe mi-fcrablc people, draw thc mofl Rriking conclufions in favour of our fuperior happinefs. Till it can be proved, that a man in continual pain, from the rigour of climate, is-happy, 1 fliall not give credit to thc eloquence of philofo-phers, who have cither had no opportunity of contemplating human nature under all its modifications, or who have not felt what they have fcen *. It were to be wiflied, that thc confeioufnefs of thofe great advantages which heaven hath bellowed on us, in preference to fo many of our rational fcllow-crcaturcs, might tend to thc general reformation of morals amongft us ; inflcad of which, our civilized communities arc ilaincd with vices and enormities, unknown to thc wretch, who, compared with ourfelves, is next to a brute, being dcllitutc of that fuperior knowledge, • The ill-naturcJ fyftcm of philofophy which thefc men fupport, is only copied from Scnoca, who made light of the diftreflcs of othen, being himfelf in af- • Alienee, The following ptfllgC is very applicable to thc poor Pechcrais, and thc reflation at thc end is one of thofe I allude to. Pcrprtua illit bitms, trijlc ea-lant promt \—imkrm culma aut ftondt dtftndunt \ nulla ■ i/i'is dW.///<>, f*** nift quas lajjitudo in diim pofuit.—In alimtntis ftras captutity—vilit, & bit quxrnidus mautt vi'hts.'—Miftri tltii videntur T—Nihil miferum tjl quod in naturawi con-Juttudj pcrduxit —Hoc quod tibi calamitax vidttur> tit ventitun vita rjh-— Scncc.i A VO'YAGE ROUND T il E WORLD. iT7« cvcr fugjtelted this horrid practice, I Riould admit that ir was pofliblc, among a fmall number of unhappy individuals, driven from more convenient feats to thefe barren extremities of the world ; and in that cafe it mud likewife be allowed, that fuch a tribe cannot long continue in being. Thc poor- Pecheraia embarked in their canoes again about noon, and flowly and filcntly paddled away, in thc Mur > if. fame manner as they came. Our failors well pleafcd to fee their fhip fafc at anchor, had already begun their holiday the evening before, and continued to caroufc during two days without intcrmiflion, till captain Cook ordered thc grcatclt part of them to be packed into a boat, and put afliorc, to recover from their drunkennefs in thc frefh air. jucfj..)^. On thc 27th in the morning, fome of thc people being tolerably fober, captain Cook manned a boat, and went with my father, and Dr. Sparrman, to thc fame ifland where wc had been fo fuccefsful on thc lie brought on board in thc evening fome gcefc and other fowls, which were roafted, and prefcrved as a kind of fea-lloek. In his abience thc natives came on board again, but made a very Ihort flay, as nobody took any notice of them on account of their infulferablc flench. Thc word pffftray which they repeated from time to time, was pronounced in fuch a piteous tone, that we fometimes believed thc natives W< l)(,££m£ i hut upon looking at them, wc difcovercd no change change of countenance; nothing but that vacant Mare DcJL7i+BERi which is the characTeriftic of the mofl confummate flu-pidity. Having completed our provifion of wood and water, and brought thc tents on board, which had been erecfed on more, we failed the 28th in the morning, at eight o'clock, wednem »s. on our way towards Cape Horn. The rcfrcftimcnts which wc had obtained in this found, which was named Chrift-mas Sound, ami its convenient fituation for (hips coming into, or going out of thc South Sea, make it a very fit place of re fort. It contains many excellent harbours, and has wood enough for fuel, though little or none for the carpenter's ufe j its water is very pure, and well-tailed, and the air though keen, is yet very falubrious. Whilfl we lay in this found, one of thc marines was unfortunately diowned. lie was not milled till two days after, when an enquiry being made, it was difcovercd, that being much intoxicated he had gone down into the head, where he had probably Hipped overboard. It was the fame perfon who had before efcaped drowning off thc Ifle of Irromanga, and who afterwards fliot a native of Tanna. This was thc fourth and lafl man we loft in the courfe of our whole voyage, In the afternoon we paflcd the ifland of St. Udcfonfo, TlluIl!jy probably fo called by Spanifh navigators ; after which we fleered to the eallward whilll it was light, and tacked till T t t 2 the D1CIMB11. the day broke. At fix in thc morning we paflcd Cape Horn, which is a large black rock, at the extremity of an ifland, lying before the Naflau inlet, difcovercd by Jacques FHcr-mite *, This famous cape has hitherto been ill placed in the charts, but thc two voyages of captain Cook round ir, have fixed its fituation exactly at $5° 58' S. and 6yv 46 W. After taking our leave of the South Sea, wc fleered for Lc Mairc's Strait, between Ticrra del fucgo, and Stateri Ifland. Towards evening, wc came near enough to obferve, that this fide of Ticrra del fucgo had a much milder afpeft, than that about Chriftmas Sound. Here the land Hoped down from the hills into long level points, covered with tall forefls ; and no fnow was to be feen, except on the 4 diftant weftern mountains. We entered thc flrait the next morning, but were becalmed in it almofl thc whole day. Succcfs Ray lay open to our eyes, and the country about it looked fo rich and fertile, that wc heartily wiflicd to make Gome flay there. About two o'clock in thc afternoon, whilfl we were at dinner, captain Cook difpatched a boat to thc fliore, in order to examine whether the Adventure had touched there, and to leave fome account of our pafling the flrait. The fhip in thc mean while flood on with faint breezes towards thc - * Set Kccucil des Voyages qui out fervi I rHftablilll-rncnt, &c, vol, IV. p. 690. fide &£e of Ticrra del Fuego, in order to take up the boat on its return. A number of large whales, not lefs than thirty, and fome hundreds of feals, played in the water about us. Thc whales went chiefly in couples, from whence we fuppofed this to be the feafon when the fexes meet. Whenever they fpouted up the water, or, as the failors term it, were fcen blowing to windward, the whole fhip was infefled with a mofl dcteflable, rank, and poifonous flench, which went off in thc fpace of two or three minutes. Sometimes thefc huge animals lay on their backs, and with their long pectoral fins beat thc furface of the fea, which always caufed a great noifc, equal to the explofion of a fwivcl. This kind of play has doubtlefs given rife to the mariner's Rory of a fight hetween the tlnafher and whale, of which thc former is faid to leap out of thc water, in order to fall heavily on thc latter. Here wc had an opportunity of ob-ferving thc fame excrcife many times repeated, and difcerned that all thc belly and under fide of the fins and tail are of a white colour, whereas the refl is black. As wc happened to be only fixty yards from one of thefe animals, wc perceived a number of longitudinal furrows, or wrinkles, on its belly, from whence we concluded it was the fpecies by Linnxus named balttna hoops. Bcfidcs flapping their fins in the water, thefe unwieldy animals, of forty feet in length, and not lefs than ten feet in diameter, fometimes fairly leaped into thc air, and dropped down again with a heavy fall, which which made thc water foam all round them. The prodigious quantity of power required to raife fuch a vaR creature out of the water is aflonifhing ; and their peculiar oeconomy cannot but give room to many reflections. Thc boat which thc captain had fent to Succefs Bay returned about fix o'clock in thc evening. The lieutenant acquainted us that his boat had been followed into the bay by many fcals, and fome whales, upon one of which the boat narrowly cfcaped linking. He had not found thc leaft fign at the watering-place of any European fhip having lately paffed this way ; but on landing, fcveral natives met him well drefTcd in guanacoe-fkins, and large cloaks of feal-ikms, with a much more cheaiful and happy countenance, than thc poor tribe whom wc had left at Ch rift ma A Sound. They had bracelets of recti, with filvcr-wire wrapped about it, to which they often pointed, pronouncing ihc word i>,!jf ray, and fecming to fet no value on any tiling our people had to oiler. It was concluded that they had received thefe ornaments from thc Spaniard ft, cither by means of flaips which had touched at this bay, or indireclly through the hands of other tribes to the north of the flrait of Magclhacns. After flaying on fliore two or three minutes, our people rc embarked, and came on board. We continued our courfe through thc Strait of he Mairc, and thc next morning ran along the (hpre of Staten Land, which was wrapped in thick fogs. Later in the day thc fog cleared a little a little away, and gave us a view of the land, which con- v£l7** filled of mountains, to the full as craggy and barren as thofe of the well coaft of Tierra del Tuego, though not fo high, and therefore lefs covered with fnow. Several iflands, about thirty yards perpendicular in height, lay off this coafl, and feemed entirely covered with grafs at the top. Great numbers of feals were fcen about them •, and as captain Cook was in want of oil, he thought he fliould have the befl opportunity of providing himfelf with this article, by coming to an anchor fomewhere in the neighbourhood. Thefe iflands were feen by father Feuillee, who has given a map of them in his Voyage to Peru, which we found to be very erroneous. After turning round them, we perceived a fnug harbour on Staten Land, but captain Cook did not choofc to put in there, becaufc he was of opinion he might be detained in it by contrary winds. He therefore preferred anchoring under the lee of one of thc low iflands ; and as the 31R of December ended at noon, according to thc nautical reckoning, he gave thefe iflands thc name of New Year's Iflands, and the harbour on Staten Land, that of New Year's Harbour. C H A P. 177+» DlCfMIltt CHAP. VL Stay at the New Tears (/lands.—Difcovery of lands to the fouthward. —Return to the Cape of Good ILpe. Saturday jt, /^\UR boats were hoiftcd out immediately after dinner, ^+r and we went in them to thc iiland, which was above a mile oR. The rocks along fliore were covered with a multitude of feals, among!! which the largcll had a longihaggy mane, and therefore deferved to be called fea-lions with much greater propriety, than thofe fmooth animals to which Lord Anfon gave that name at Juan Fernandez. Indeed many former navigators have alfo given them that name, though their writings are little read at prefent*. * Francis Pretty, in Hackluyt, III. fpcaks of our fca-Jions, p. 805. ** Thefc feaks arc of a wonderfull great bigncfle, huge and monflrous of lhupe, and for thc forepart of their bodies cannot he compared to any thin- better than to a lion : their head and ncckc, and foreparts of their bodies, arc full o4 rough hnirc." Sir Iviehard Hawkins fays fomcthinj; to thc fame purpofe, and adds, that they have whifkrrs, of which 011= may make tooth-picks.—Sec Des Urofles Nav. aux Tcrrc* Auftralo, vol. I. p. 244. Sir John Narborough likewife takes notice of their linking rc-Icmblancc to lions; and Labbe, in the Lettres des Miffionnaircs, torn. XV. add-., that the fea-lion only differs from thc fea-bear by the Jong hair about his neck ; an ob&mtiOM which is ilriCtly true—Sec Des Diufics Kjlv. aux Teiies Aulliale., vol. II p. 434, We We put into a little cove under Richer of a few rocks, and dumber, fired at fome of thefe fierce animals, moll of which immediately threw themfelves into the water. Some of thc mofl unwieldy, however, kept their ground, and were killed by our bullets. Several fhowers interrupted our fport for fome time, but thc weather clearing up afterwards, we killed with clubs a great number of the fattcR fea-lions, which our crew carried on board, in order to boil their blubber into train-oil. Thc old males were in general very fat, and mcafurcd from ten to twelve feet in length ; the females were more flendcr, and from fix to eight feet long. The weight of the largcil male amounts to 1200 or 1 500lb. for one of a middle fize weighed 550lb. after thc fkin, entrails, and blubber were taken oil*. The head of the male has really fome rcfemblance to a lion's head, and thc colour is likewife very nearly the fame, being only a, darker hue of tawny. Thc long Riaggy hair on thc neck and throat of the male, beginning at thc back of the head, bears a Rrong rcfemblance to a mane, and is hard and coarfe to thc touch ; all the refl of the body is covered with ihort hairs, which lie very dole to thc fkin, and form a fmooth gloffy coat. The lionefs is perfectly fmooth all over thc body ; but both fexes arc formed alike with regard to the feet, or rather fins. Thofe fms which originate near the brcaft arc large flat pieces of a black coriaceous membrane, which have only fome fmall indiflincT veiligcs of Vol. II. U u u nails m ^£t™ nails on their middle. Thc hinder fins are rather more like feet, being black membranes divided into five long toes, with a thin thong, or membrane, projecting far beyond the nails, which are very fmall. With thefe nails however we have feen them fcratch all parts of their body. The tail is cxcellivcly fliort, and hid between thc hind feet or fins, which grow clofe together. Thc whole hind quarters are very round, being covered with an amazing quantity of fat. Thc noifc which all thc animals of this kind make together was various, and fometimes Runncd our car,. Thc old males fnort and roar like mad bulls or lions j thc females bleat exactly like calves, and the young cubs like lambs. Of the young wc faw great numbers on thc hcaches j and one of thc females being knocked down with a club, littered in thc fame inftant. The fca-lions live together in numerous herds. Thc oldcR and fattcR males lie apart, each having chofen a large Hone, which none of thc iell dares approach without engaging in a furious battle. Wc have often feen them fcizc each other with a degree of rage which is not to be defcribed ; and many of them had deep gafhes on their backs, which they had received in the wars. Thc younger active fea lions, with all thc females and thc cubs, lie together. They commonly waited thc approach of our people; but as foon as fome of the herd were killed, thc refl took flight with great precipitation, fome females carrying off a cub in their mouths, whilfl many mci fo fo terrified as to leave them behind. When left to themfclves, they were often feen carefling each other in the moR tender manner, and their fnouts oft met together, as if they were kifling. The late profeffor Steller found thefe animals at Bering's Ifland, near Kamtchatka, where he was fhipwrecked; and his defcriptions, the firft and befl ever drawn up, correfpond exactly with our obfervations. M. Pcrnetty, in Ins Voyage to thc Falkland Iflands, has like-wife mentioned them ; but his figure, which is very inaccurate, is perfectly in theflylc of all his other drawings, and correfponds with the truth and accuracy of his writings *s M. de Bougainville, in his Voyage round thc World, alfo fpeaks of them. They come aihorc on thefc uninhabited fpots to breed ; they do nor, however, feed during their flay on more, which fometimes lafls feveral weeks, but grow lean, and fwallow a confidcrablc quantity of flones to keep their flomach diflcndcd. Wc were furprifed to find the flomachs of many of thefc animals entirely empty, and of others filled with ten or a dozen round heavy llones, each of thc fize of two fills f. * Sec his Voyage, Englifli coition, p. 240, and tab. 15, fig. 2. f Hcauthefnc (Jouin, thc French navigator, has made the fame obfervation, and ..'!■■," there was fome appearance that thefc flones were already begun to be di-j»rfteJ though I doubt whether this part of the ftory will gain credit with his readers.—Sec Dos tiroflcs Navig. aux Tcrrcs Auftralcs, vol. II. p, 114. U U U 2 Having Having made fome havock among thefe creatures, we walked upon the fummit of the iiland, which was nearly level, but covered with innumerable little mounds of earth, on each of which grew a large tuft of grafs {daclylis ghmerata). The intervals between thefe tufts were very muddy and dirty, which obliged us to leap from one tuft to the other. We foon difcovercd that another kind of fcals occupied this part of the iiland, and caufed thc mud by coming wet out of thc fea. Thefc were no other than the fea-bcars which we had already feen at Duiky Bay, but which were here infinitely more numerous, and grown to a much larger Rze, equalling that alligncd to them by Stellcr. They arc however far inferior to thc fea-lions, the males being never above eight or nine fect long, and thick in proportion. Their hair is dark brown, minutely fprinklcd with grey, and much longer on thc whole body than that of thc fea-lion, but docs not form a mane. The general outline of thc body, and the fliapc of the fins arc exactly thc fame, They were more fierce towards us, and their females commonly died in defence of their young. Great numbers of a fpecie9 of vultures, commonly called carrion crows by the failors (vidtur awr*)\ were fcen upon this iiland, and probably feed on young fcal-cubs, which either die in the birth, or which they take an opportunity to fcizc upon, Bcfides them we alfo found a new fpecies of hawk*, and fcveral fcveral gecfc of the fort which had fo well furniflicd out J77A-our Chriftmas entertainment. Here we likewife faw a few pinguins, of a fpecies which wc had not met with before, fome large grey petrels of thc fize of albatrolTes, being thc fame fpecies which the Spaniards name que branta-huejjbs, or the bone-breakers, and fome fhags. The new year began with a very fair day, though it j^JJJ^ blew frcfli, and the air was fharp. A boat was difpatched W!ay * to New Year's harbour, to found and furvey it, but as lieutenant Pickerfgill had orders not to make any Ray on fhorc, wc did not accompany him, choofing rather to take another turn on the new ifland with captain Cook. The flrata of this iiland, confiflcd of a yellowifli clay-Rone, and fometimes of a grey date, both which were of different degrees of hardnefs, in different places. Wc fell in with many herds of fca-bcars, and fea-lions, which wc did not attack, as another party was fent out upon that errand. We obfervcd however, that thefc two fpecies, though fome-rjmcs encamped on the fame beach, always kept at a great diftance afundcr, and had no communication with each other. A firong rank flench is common to them, as well as to all other fcals; a circumftancc as well known to thc ancients, as their inactivity and drowfinefs whilfl they lie on fliore, -QOXXt. '*A0foat il' i£xvz$v? roAuCoAiof 6?uwi Homer. Wcbfootcd fcals forfakc thc whitening waves, And flccp in herds, exhaling naufeous ftench. Rowing along fliore, wc fell in with a fpot where fcveral thoufand (hags had built their nefls, on thofe elevated tufts which I have mentioned before. Here was an opportunity to provide the whole fhip's company with a frcih meal, which was not neglected. The birds were for the grcatcfl part fo tame, as to let our boat's crew come among them with clubs and (laves ; by which means fjvcral hundreds of them were killed. On this day's cx-curiion wc found a bird of a new genus, which was of (he fize of a pigeon, and perfectly white It belonged to thc clafs of wading water-fowl, its toes were half webbed, and its eyes, as well as t lie bafe of the bill, fin rounded by many little white elands or warts. 1c had fuch an horrid oi- o 9 fenfive fmcil, that wc could not tallc thc flefh, though ar, this time we were not eafily difguilcd. Captain Cook ob-fci ved thc latitude on the cafl end of thc ifland, which was a barren rock wholly covered with herds of feals, flocks of gulls, fhags, and other animals. Wc returned to dine on board, and then fpent thc afternoon upon the iiland again. We fliot there feveral gecfe, amongfl which was a new fpecies $ fpecies; and were not lefs fuccefsful among a flock of pinguins, than we had been among the fhags in the morning. They were of thc fize of fmali geefe, and of that fpecies which is the moft common in the neighbourhood of the Straits of Magclhaens. The Englifli at the Falkland Iflands have named them jumping-jacks *. They deep very found, for Dr. Sparrman met one of them, which he kicked feveral yards by accidentally Rumbling over it, without breaking its flccp, till by repeatedly (baking the bird, it awoke. When the whole flock was befet, they all became very bold at once, and ran violently at us, biting our legs, or any part of our clothes. They are cxccffively hard lived, for having left a great number of them, feem-ingly dead on the field of battle, and going in the purftiit of the reft, they all at once got up, and walked ofT with great gravity. Thc feals and fea lions were likewife killed with great difficulty, but their fnout was by far thc moR fcnfiblc part. Dr. Sparrman, and myfelf, were near being attacked by one of thc oldcfl fca-bcars, on a cliff where fcveral hundreds lay affcmblcd, which all fccmcd to wait the iflue of the fight. The Doctor had discharged his mufket at a bird, and was going to pick it up, when this old bear growled and fnaiicd, and fccmcd ready fo oppofc him. As foon as I was near enough, I fliot thc furly creature dead, and at that inflant the whole herd, feeing their • Sec Phil. Tranf. vol, LXVI. part. i. champion champion fallen, hurried to the fea; and many of them hobbled along with fuch precipitation, as to leap down ten or fifteen yards perpendicular, upon the pointed rocks on thc fliore, though without receiving any burr, which may be attributed to their fat cafdy giving way, and their hide being remarkably tough. Thc chace of thefe animals afforded great fport to our people ; and the many lingular circumflanccs which mull fit ike thc obferver, in contemplating a fpecies of animals aiLciated into numerous herds, gave us much fatisfaclion. All thefe creatures were here in their proper climate ; for the feall and fea I ion 9 being loaded with an irnmcnfe quantity of far, and the fliags and pinguins with a thick plumage, felt no inconvenience from thc coolnefs of thc weather. Thc captain obtained a conliderablc quantity of blubber, which was put into calks, and afterwards converted into oil ; but a difagrccablc putrid flench infected thc whole fllip for fcveral days alter leaving thefe New Year's Iflcs. In the evening our piny returned from New Year's Harbour, on Staien Land, which they had found extremely fafc and commodious. They brought with them fome gulls, and five large ducks of thc mort-winged fort, which our failors called race-hui fes. Each of thefc weighed fix-teen pounds, but their meat was remarkably fetid, and not fit to be eaten. Wc fpent thc fccond of January in the fame manner as the iirll, jlill mailing an acquifition of fome fome new fpecies of birds, with which this ifland, notwkh- .wiStm flanding its fmall fize, abounded. Among the reft wc found a fine fort of grey curlew, with a yellow neck, which was one of the ftateliefl birds we had ever feen. The vegetable productions of this fpot were confined to fix or eight fpecies, among which wc faw fome fmall flirubs not above three feet high, and a new plant ; but thc grafs above mentioned (dachlis ghmerata) occupied almofl the whole furface of thc ifland. In the evening we hoiftcd in all our boats, and the next morning at three o'clock we fet Tuefdayj, fail, and doubled the N. E. end of Staten Land, which is named Cape St. John by father Feuillee. A prodigious llrong tide was obfervcd to run paft our fhip every day whilfl wc lay at anchor, at the rate of four or five miles an hour. This is, however, fo much thc lefs remarkable, as thc Straits of Magclhacns and thc callcrn coafl of America, in high fouthern latitudes, are likewife known to have flrong tides. The New Year's Iflands, which wc now left, arc fltuated in 540 46' S. and 640 30' W. The largeft of them is about fix leagues, and that under which wc lay at anchor appeared to be between three and four leagues in circuit. They arc excellent places of rcfrcflimcnt for a fhip'a crew bound on expeditions like ours j for though the flefh of fea-lions and pinguins is not the mofl palatable food, yet it is infinitely more falubrious than fait meat; ml by fcarching thc dliferent iflands, it is not improbable . Vol, II. X x x that janVary. that a fumcient quantity of celery and fcurvy-grafs might be found to fupply thc whole crew, cfpccially as we faw both thc fpecies on our excurfions. Our fcamcn lived fcveral days on young fhags and pinguins, of which they found thc former extremely palatable, comparing them to young pullets. They likewife roaflcd feveral little cubs of fcals, but there was a degree of foftnefs in the meat which made it difguflful. The flefh of young but full-grown fea-bears was greatly preferable, and tailed like coarfe and bad beef ; but that of the old fea lions and bears was fo rank and offenfive, that we could not touch it. After ranging the callcrn and fouthern coaR of Staten-Land, till the afternoon, we took our departure, and fleered to the E. S. E. in order to pafs our third fummer feafon to the fouth ward. Wc had flrong gales, which carried away a main-top-gallant-mall, and fome Audding fail-booms; but as the wind was in our favour, thefe loffes were cflccmcd of little confequcncc. A halo of very great circumference- rhurfday 5- was obferved round the fun on thc 5th. It inclofed a dark area, but the circle itfclf was white, with feveral faint prifmatic hues on the edges. This was reckoned a prog-noflic of floims, but wc experienced mild weather for levc-ral days afterwards, from whence wc may conclude how-far fuch figns are to be relied upon. The la tell charts published in England and France, have laid down a great fea-coafl between 400 and $Z° wcil> In the latitude of 540 and and 58° fouth, which they found marked in a chart pro- January, jetted by Ortelius, in 1 586 *, and in that of Mercator, published fo early as the year 1569. It appears to have been difcovercd by Spanifh navigators, as thc name of Golfo de San Sebaftiano feems to indicate. Wc paffed over that part of the ocean, where the weftern coaft of this gulph is faid to be fltuated, but did not meet with any land. . Captain Furncaux likewife thc year before, palled acrofs both the caftcrn and weftern fhores of this gulph, in 6o°, and afterwards 58° S. from 6o° to 40° W. without feeing land. It appears therefore that cither this gulph docs not cxiil, or that it is not rightly laid down in former charts ; and the latter is much more probable, fince it can hardly be conceived by what means fuch a difcovery could obtain a place in the old charts, without fome authority to fupport it. On thc 6th, at eight in thc evening, we changed our courfe, and Rood to thc northward, having reached upwards of 58° S. without feeing any ice ; though Dr. Hal-ley, in the year 1700, at the fame feafon, found abundance of ice in thc latitude of 52° 8. A heavy dew fell on thc 8th in the evening, which is reckoned an indubitable fign of land ; and petrels, albatroRcs, and fcals had been fcen from time to time, ever fince we left Staten Land. * See Mr. Dalrymplc's Memoir of a Chart of thc Southern Ocean, and thc Chait iti'.'ll", which br.u ;m mdilpiitablf tdl iinony of thc laudable cnthufitfm with vvhich Chat gentleman ha* profecuted his inquiries on this fuhjedt. X x x 2 Having «77* January. Saturday 14. Having run into 540 S. we began to Rcer to the cad ware again, in fearch of the land which was difcovered by M. Duclos Guyot, in the Spanifh fhip Lion, which failed from Callao in Peru, in February 1756, and paffed Cape Horn in the depth of Winter *. We continued to Rand to thc eaflward, feeing many birds, and now and then pinguins, and fea-wceds, till thc 1 4th, in the morning, when thc officer of thc watch acquainted the captain that an iiland of ice was in fight. We continued failing towards it all day j but in thc evening we difcovercd that what had been taken for ice, was really land, which fccmcd to be of great height, and covered with fnow for ihe greateft part. By coniulting the accounts of M. Guvot, it appears to be certain, that this land is the fame of which he faw thc fouth end in June 1756, and which he named Ifle de St. Pierre. He lays it down in 38° 10' W. from Greenwich, which agrees entirely with our obfervations of thc north-well extremity, and is only between thirty and forty leagues to thc weft of thc longitude which we aflign for the S. E. end f, Notwithllanding this coincidence, many were flill of opinion that wc only faw • Sec a Collection of Voyages, chiefly in thc Southern Atlantic Ocean, pub-liflicd by Mr. Dalrymplc, 1775. The land i'ecn by Antonio h Roche, in 1675, appears to be the fame with this difcoytftd in the Lion. f Sec thc Extract of Mr. (luyot's Journal, published by Mr. Dalrymplc in Hii Collection of Voyages in thc Southern Atlantic Ocean, p. 5, and p. 15. an an iiland of ice ; and as the wind was very boifterous the next day, and the weather extremely foggy, the point remained undetermined till the i 6th. We had very cold weather all this time, thc thermometer being at 341°, and great falls of fnow covering our decks. On the 1 6 th, in the morning, wc had fight of the land again, and found its mountains of a vaft height, covered with loads of fnow and ice, in moR places down to the water's edge. The only parts which were clear of fnow were a few black and barren cliffs, and particularly fome huge hollow rocks, that — ■ mm o'er their wave-worn bafis bowed. Shakespeare. Towards thc fouth end of this land wc faw feveral low iflands, like thc New Year's iflands, which appeared to have fome verdure upon them, and were therefore called the Green Iflands. As it had been the main object of our voyage to explore thc high fouthern latitude, my father fuggclled to captain Cook, that it would be proper to name this land after thc monarch who had fet on foot our expedition, folcly for the improvement of fcience, and whofe name ought therefore to be celebrated in both hemi-fphcrcs, ■ Tua fcclus orbia Nomina ducct J ITor, It was accordingly honoured with the name of Southern Georgia, which will give it importance, and continue to fprcad. jmilix fpread a degree of luftrc over it, which it cannot derive from its barrennefs and dreary appearance. In the afternoon wc faw two rocky iflands at the north end of Georgia, which lay about a league afunder, and were of a dull black colour. Wc fleered towards them, and about five o'clock palled in the middle between them. Thc northcrnmoft. was a craggy cliff, nearly perpendicular, which contained thc nefts of many thoufand fhags, and was named Willib's Ifland; it is fltuated in 54° S. and 38^ 25' W. Thc fouthcrnmoR floped gradually to the weft-ward, being covered on that fide with fome grafs, and with innumerable flocks of birds of all forts, from thc largeft al-bfttroffea down to the lead petrels, for which reafon it was named liird Iiland. Great numbers of fhags, pinguins, divers, and other birds played about, and fettled in thc water around us, this cold climate fecming to be perfectly agreeable to them. Several porpefTes were likewife noticed, and many feals were feen, which probably came to breed on thefe inhofpitablc fhores. Wc ran along thc north-eafl coafl of thc land till it was dark, when we brought to, and did not refiimc our courfe 'l'ackhy 17. till the next morning at three o'clock. Thc afpect of the land was extremely unpromifmg ; the mountains were thc mofl craggy we had ever fcen, and formed many (harp points, between which thc intervals were filled up with fuow. Wc paffed a bay, which, from the number of low green A VOYAGE ROUND T II E W O r L D. 5-7 grrcn iflands in ir, was named the Bay of Iflands, and opened another, towards which wc flood with the fhip,, having foundings at the diflance of two or three miles. About nine o'clock a boat was hoifled out, and captain Cook, accompanid by one midmipman, my father, Dr, Sparrman, and myfelf, went into the bay. Wc founded in thc entrance, but found no bottom with thirty-four fathom. Upon advancing into thc furtheft rccefs of the bay, wc foon obferved a folid mafs of ice, fuch as is found in the harbours of Spitfbergen *, in thc northern hemifphcre. This mafs of ice bore a great refcmblancc to thofe detached iflands, of which we faw fuch numbers floating upon the ocean in the high fouthern latitudes. The fhores of the bay, nearer the fea, were clear of fnowr but cxcellivcly dreary, and almoR perpendicular. We landed in a fpot which was perfectly fheltered from the fwcll, and where thc land formed a long projecting point. Hcrcwc faw a number of feals afTcmbled on a flony beach, and among them a huge animal, which wc had taken to be a rock at a diflance, but which proved to be exactly thc fame animal with lord Anfon's fea-lion. Thc midfhipman (hot it through thc head whilll it lay faR. aflccp, and wc afterwards found a younger one of thc fame-fort. It was all over of a dink grey colour, with a flight olive cafl, fomcthing like thc feals in thc northern hemi- * Sec the Hon. captain Phipp's (now lord Mulgravc's) Voyage towards tl.«-North Pole, 1775. fphere;. END OF THE SECOND BOOK. fphere. It likewife refembled thefe animals in the more perfect (liape of its fore feet, and the want of external ears. Its nofe projected far beyond the mouth, and had a loofe wrinkled fkin, which may perhaps be occafionally puffed up when the animal is angry, and will in that cafe form fomcthing like thc crefl which has been figured in the print accompanying lord Anfon's voyage. Thc animal which we examined was about thirteen feet long, but in proportion, of a more (lender make than thc fea-lion with a mane, which we faw at Staten Land *. Here wc likewife found a flock of about twenty pinguins, of a much greater fize than any wc had hitherto fcen ; they were thirty-nine inches long, and weighed forty pounds. Their belly was of a mofl enormous Czc, and covered with a vaft quantity of fat. An oval fpot of bright yellow, ojf lemon colour, appears on each fide of the head, and is edged with black, thc refl of the body being of a blackifh-grcy colour on the whole back, and Uppep-fide, and white on the belly, under thc fins, and all thc fore-part. Thefe birds were fo dull, as hardly to waddle from us ; we eafily overtook them by running, and knocked them down with flicks. When wc returned on board, we found that they , were mentioned by that great zoologifl Mr. Pennant, in * This animal, or Anfon's fcadion, (phoca Icon'ma^ Linn.) fecms to be thc fame which thc Englifli, at Falkland Iiland, have called the clap match-teal .-—Sec thc JPhilof. Tranfadt. vol. LXV1 pan i. the the Phil. Tranf. by thc name of Patagonian pinguins, and we likewife fuppofe them to be the fame fpecies which the Englifli at the Falkland Iflands, have named yellow, or king pinguins *. The feals which wc found here, were more fierce, than any we had feen on the New Year's Ides, and did not run out of our way. The youngeR cubs barked at us, and ran after our heels when wc paffed by them, trying to bite our legs. They were all of the fpecies which I have before named fea-bears, (urfine feals, PennJ and not a fmglc fca-lion with a mane, was to be feen among them. We climbed upon a little hummock, about eight yards high, where wc found two fpecies of plants ; one was the grafs which grows plentifully on the New Year's Iflcs (dadlylisgkmerata), and the other a kind of burnet (finguifoylhu) Here captain Cook difplayed the Britifh flag, and performed the ceremony of taking pofTcfTion of thefe barren rocks, " in thc name of his Britannic Majcfty, and his heirs for ever.'' A volley of two or three mufkets was fired into thc air, to give greater weight to this adertion; and the barren rocks re-echoed with the found, to the utter amazement of thc feals and pinguins, the inhabitants of thefc newly difcovercd dominions. The rocks confided of a bluifh grey Hate, in horizontal flrata, of which many fragments every where covered thc beaches. As far as • Seethe Phtlolbphka] Tnnfadiani, vol. LXVI. part i. Vox, II. Y y y we 1775. we were able to examine them, they contained no other vUARTf, minerals of any kind ; the whole country being ufclefs, and frightfully barren in every refpect. We embarked foon after with a load of feals, pinguins, and fhags, and leaving this bay, which was named Poflcflion Bay, and is fltuated in 540 15' S, and 37 0 15' W. arrived fafc on board before noon. During our Ray on fliore, we faw fome fmall fragments of ice floating out to fea, and heard the huge maflcs in the farthefl part of thc bay, crack very loud from time to time. Wc continued to coafl the land during the two following days, and difcovercd fcveral bays and head-lands upon it, which were fucceflively named Cumberland Bay, Cape George, Royal Bay, Cape Charlotte, and Sandwich Bay. Thc appearance of thc land was always nearly the fame ; its mountains towards thc fouth were execflivcly high, and divided into innumerable ragged points, like the flames in a raging fire. Mr. Hodges has drawn a very maflerly view of part of this coafl, where the . horrors and caricatures of nature arc faithfully copied, in-that great flylc which is peculiar to him, and which animates all his views of favagc countries. The drawings I here mention arc engraved, and intended for caplain Cook's account of this voyage. On thc 1 pth wc reached thc S. E. extremity of fouthern Georgia, which we now difcovercd to be an ifland, between fifty and fixty leagues in length, A rock which was named (loopcr's Cooper's Ifland, lies off the fouth end, in 5*4° 5 2'S. and .^Jgg 35° 5"° Wt Wc difcovercd at the fame time, an ifland to thc fouth-eaftvvard, about fourteen leagues diflant, of which we could not yet determine the fize. We failed towards it on the 20th in the morning, after Friday » having coaflcd the fouth end of the Ifle of Georgia, till wc came in fight of thc Green Iflands, difcovercd on the 16 th. The weather bad for thefe four days pail, been extremely fair, and favourable for thc purpofe of exploring this land; the winds had likewife been gentle, and the air very mild. We had however, no fooncr left the coafl, than a flrong gale, attended with fogs and rains fprung up, which obliged us to take in all our topfails ; but it fortunately was of a fliort duration, for at midnight wc were becalmed. Thc land towards which wc failed, was fo much involved in fogs, that our feamcn were uncertain-of thc fituation, and continued to tack from time to time, in order to avoid it. The fog continued during the 21ft, and 22d, and obliged us to change our courfe very frequently. On the 2 3d, the fame thick weather, being attended Mom,*y with a frcih breeze, we flood boldly on a tack, which all on board were firmly pcri'uadcd, would carry us directly from the land. Inllcad of that, about eleven o'clock, lieutenant Gierke faw the breakers fcarcc half a mile ahead, .and feveral (hags came to meet us, which fcldom go to a Y y y 2 greater JanJUV, greater diftance from land. We now difcovercd that we had very providentially efcaped being wrecked on thc land, by making thc circuit of it without knowing it. We put about inllantly after this difcovery, and Rood off and on all day, as well as the next, becaufe the fame kind of thick fog, with frequent intervals of calm weather continued. In the evening however, thc fog cleared for a little while, and gave us a fair view, both of the Ifle of Georgia, and of the fmaller one round which we had failed. Wc found thc latter of an inconfldcrable fize, and furrounded with other broken rocks ; thc whole dangerous group was therefore named Gierke's rocks, and lies in 55° jVcdncfd. »5« S. and 340 50' W. Early on thc 2.5th, wc directed our courfe to the eaflward, and afterwards fomcwhat foutherly, in order to make another run towards thc fouth before wc returned into milder climates. It has been fuppofed, that all parts of this globe, including thofe which are barren and dreary in the higheft degree, are fit to become thc abode of men. Before wc arrived at this Ifland of Georgia, wc had nothing to opp^h to this opinion, fince even the wintcry fhores of Ticrra del Fucgo were inhabited by human beings, who were flill one Rep removed from brutes. But thc climate of Tierra del Fucgo is mild with refpeel: to that of Georgia, thc difference in thc thermometer which wc obfervcd, being at kail ten uegrccs. It has bcfidcs thc advantage of producing a quantity quantity of fhrubbery and wood, fuRicicnt to fupply the wants of the natives, who are by that means enabled to rcR fheltered from the inclemencies of the air, and to light fires, which give them warmth, and may ferve to make their food eatable and wholefomc. As New Georgia is wholly deftitute of wood, and of any other combuflible to ferve as a fud-ccdancum, I apprehend it would be impoflible for any race of men to live upon it, though they fhould, inflcad of thc flupidity of thc PcRerais, be poffcRed of thc ingenuity of Europeans. The fummcrs of this new ifland arc rigoroufly cold, thc thermometer having never rifen ten degrees above thc freezing point, during our flay on thc coafl j and though we have reafon to fuppofc, that the winters arc not colder in thc fame proportion as in our hemifpherc, yet it is probable there will be at lcaft a difference of twenty or thirty degrees. This I think is fuflicient to kill any men who may furvive thc fummcr there, fuppofmg them provided with no other defence than that which thc country affords. Rut South Georgia, bcfides being uninhabitable, docs not appear to contain any fmglc article, for which it might be vifitcd occafonally by European fliips. Seals, and fca-lions, of which thc blubber is accounted an article of commerce, arc much more numerous on thc defartcoafls of South America, thc Falkland, and thc New Year's Iflands, where they may likewife be obtained at a much fmallcr rifk. If the northern ocean fliould ever be cleared of whales, 1775- January. whales, by our annual fimeries, wc might then vifit thc other hcmifphere, where thefe animals arc known to be numerous. However, there fcems to be little neceiTity to advance fo far fouth as New Georgia in queft of them, fince the Portuguese, and thc North Americans, have of late years killed numbers of them on thc coal* of America, going no farther than the Falkland Iflands. It fhould therefore feem probable, that though Southern Georgia may hereafter become important to mankind, that period is at prefent fo far remote, and perhaps will not happen, till Patagonia and Tierra del Fucgo arc inhabited, and civilifed like Scotland and Sweden. We Hood to the fouthward on the 26th, with a frcfli breeze, and thc horizon tolerably clear, confidering thc ufuai weather of thefc climates, and returned to our wonted but loathed diet of faltcd meat, having eaten the lall pin-guin which wc had killed in Pofl'cflion Pay ; however, thc expectation of a fpeedy arrival at thc Cape of Good Hope, in fome meafure alleviated our fufferings. On thc 27th at noon wc had paRed the latitude of >yl° S. and faw fcveral fulmars (fmiliark glaciaBsJ which arc commonly the forerunners of ice in high latitudes. Accordingly in the evening, between fix and feven, wc faw feveral iflands of ice, and a quantity of looic ice. fo;;:; and wet weather fet in this day, which prevented our ileering fo much to thc fouthward as wc had hitherto done. Many great maflcs of of ice furrounded us on all fides the next day, and in the j,/N7Jiry. afternoon a large bed of fmall ice, adjoining to feveral Saturday aS. fields of ice, Roppcd our farther progrefs, greatly to the fa-tisfaction of all the crew, who were at prefent thoroughly tired of this dreadful climate, and cxhaufled by perpetual watching and attendance, which the frequency and Ridden appearance of dangers required. Wc had this time penetrated only a few minutes beyond 66° S. and gradually fleered to the northward, as well as the winds, the thick-nefs of thc weather, and the ice would permit. Many of our people were at this time afflicted with fevere rheumatic pains and colds, and fome were fuddenly taken with fainting fits, fince their unwholcfomc, juicclefs food could not fupply thc waflc of animal fpirits. The thermometer flood at 35p in thefe high latitudes ; and this degree of cold, as well as thc continuance of fnow-fhowers and wet fogs, greatly retarded the recovery of our patients. However, as wc now Rccrcd to the northward, we were in hopes of foon reaching a milder climate, fully perfuaded that no farther obftacles lay in wait to try our patience. But wc were again doomed to experience difappointmcnt, and difcovercd another frozen country, which Lies dark and wild, beat with perpetual ftorms Of whirlwind and dire hail ; which on firm land Thaws not, but leathers heap, and ruin fecrns Of ancient pik\ Milton.. The Thc difcovery of this land happened on thc gift of January, at feven in the morning, when thc weather was fo hazy, that we could not fee four or five miles around us. We ran towards it near an hour, when wc were within half a mile of thc rocks, which were black, cavernous, and perpendicular to a vaR height, inhabited by flocks of fhags, and beaten by dreadful breakers. Thick clouds veiled thc upper parts of the mountains, but one imm.cn fc peak appeared towering beyond them, covered with fnow. It was agreed by all prefent, that thc perpendicular height of this mountain could not be far fliort of two miles. We founded with 170 fathom clofe in fliore, and then put about, Handing to the fouth, in order to weather thc weftem point, which wc had now difcovercd. Wc had not run above an hour on this tack, when we faw high mountains to thc S. S. E. about five or fix leagues dillant, which, from the courfe we had kept, we mull have narrowly e leaped about midnight. This being thc fouthernmod extremity of thc Jand, my father named it Southern Thulc, a name which captain Cook has prefcrved. It is fuuatcd in S9° 3° .and 2 70 30' W. At one o'clock in the afternoon wc put about, and flood to thc northward, beyond thc point which we had firfl fcen. This now appeared to be a black rock, feparatcd from a great projecting head-land. The rock was named Trcczcland's Head, from a German fail or who firfl difcovercd it, and lies in 58° 55' S. and 27 u \V\ The head- head-land, which has fince been named Cape Briflol, ap- jAituii'r. peared to be connected with the Southern Thule, by fome lands which we faw very far to thc eaflward, forming a fpacious bay. Captain Cook, however, did not venture to lofc any time in the invefligation of this coaR, where he was cxpofed to imminent danger from the violence of wcflerly winds. He chofe rather to explore its northern extremities, which befides, were doubtlefs the moR likely to be of importance to navigators. Wc kept at the diflance of two or three leagues from thc land, having little winds, and feeing thc coaR every where ffeep and inacccilible. Thc mountains appeared to be of vail height, their fummits being conflantly wrapped in clouds, and thc lower part covered with fnow down to thc water's edge in fuch a manner, that we fhould have found it difficult to pronounce whether wc faw land or ice, if fome hollow rocks had not IheWD their black and naked caverns in feveral places. Wc found ourfelves abrcaR of another projecting point in Fmu*tr. 1 ° 1 Wednefd. i. the morning, which captain Cook has fince named Cape Montague, and which fecms to be connected with Cape Briftol, a kind of bay lying between them. Beyond it wc difcovercd another point to thc north, which upon our nearer approach was found to be a feparate ifland, and named Saunders's Ifland. It was not inferior in height to the mountainous coafl to thc fouth of ir, and was covered Vol. II. Zzz with d»«7i?U with fnow and ice in the fame manner. It is fuuatcd in 57° 48' S. and 2 6° 35' W. Thuraby *. We had little wind during night, but with the return of day-light, flood to the eaflward, in order to weather Saunders's Iiland. On this courfe we faw two fmall iflands far to the northward of us, which, from the day, were named Candlemas Iilands. Wc could not accomplifh our point with a fmglc board, but the wind being contrary, tacked all thc afternoon, in order to double the northern extremity of Saunders's Ifland. We came very near it fcveral times, and obfervcd a flat point or beach running out to thc northward, covered with heaps of fhinglc, which were piled up in the wildefl manner, and offered nothing but fharp points and ridges to the eye; Thc whole country had thc moft defolate and horrid appearance which can poflihly be conceived ; not a fmglc grafs could be difecrned upon it, and it fccmcd to be forfaken even by thc amphibious and lumpifli animals which dwelt on Southern (Jcorgia. In fhen, we could not help applying to it, that remarkable cxprcllion of Pliny, Pan muntli damnata a rerum natura, et deni'.i merfa calcine. Hifl. Nat. lib. xv. c. 36. The wind permitted us thc next day to approach thc Candlemas Iflcs, in order to afecrtain their fituation, which which we found to be in 57 0 10' S. and 27° 6' W. We FeJJ254*-now (leered to the eaRward, and loft fight of the fouthern land, having doubled its northern extremity. Captain Cook at firft gave it the general name of Snowland, but afterwards honoured it with that of Sandwich Land. I am inclined to believe that this land has been difcovercd by thofe early navigators, who have furniflacd thc geographers with the Gulph of St. Scbaflian, and the ifle of Creffalina. It remains very doubtful, whether the different projecting points of Thulc, Cape Briftol, and Cape Montague, form one connected land, or fcveral diflinct iflands; and this may probably continue undetermined for ages to come, fince an expedition to thofe inhofpitablc parts of thc world, befides being extremely perilous, doe* not feem likely to be productive of great advantages to mankind. It was thc object of our hazardous voyage to explore thc fouthern hemi-ipherc to the fixtieih degree of' latitude, and to afecrtain the cxiflencc of a fouthern continent in the temperate zone. Our different tracks have not only rendered it evident, that a continent docs not exift in the temperate fouthern zone, but have likewife made it probable, by advancing into the frigid zone to feventy one degrees fouth, that the fpace within thc antarctic circle is far from being every whera filled up with land. The cxiflencc of fuch a continent has been believed by the moll philofophic enquirers of thc prefent age; and this opinion, though now fo much invali- Z z z 2 dated, dated, is ncverthelefs a proof of their great intelligence, confidering the few data upon which they could proceed. Without ascertaining whether Sandwich Land is part of a greater tract, it may not be improper to mention, that one of the reafbns alledged in favour of a continent, has lately been overthrown by experiments. It has always been fuppofed that thc ice, which is feen floating in immenfe quantities on the fea, muft be formed on fliore from fnow or frclh water ; but it has now heen proved that fea-water will freeze, and that thc ice which is thus formed docs not contain any particles of fait, except where it comes in contact with the water, which introduces itfelf into its pores and intcrflices *. Thc barrennefs of Sandwich Land, thc gradual cncrcafc Of the nights, and the approach of a more rigorous feafon in thefc high latitudes, added to thc confidcration that wc had a long run to make before wc arrived at another place of rcfrefhmcnt, and that our provifions were almofl expended, induced captain Cook to abandon thc further invefli-gation of thc coafl, and to Acer to the caflward, nearly in the parallel of 5 8° S. where wc had frequent fnow fliowcrs, faw many icc-iilands every day, and, contrary to our former obfervations, found thc northerly winds colder than * Sec Mr. Nairnc'a Experiments in thc LXVI. vol, of thc Philosophical Tranf-actiona, part i, thofe thofe from the fouth ; on which a flrong prefumption may l.-FB'^5A#RT# be founded, that there is no land in the laR mentioned direction. Thc four krout, that excellent antifcorbutic food, of i:'i!;,>,0-which fixty large calks were put on board our fhip, was now entirely confumed, and the want of it was feverely felt from thc captain down to the failor. It enabled us to eat our portion of fait meat, of which it corrected the feptic quality. Thc willi for a fpecdy rcleafe from this naufeous diet now became univerfal, and our continuance in thc high latitudes of 58° and 570 was difagreeablc to all on board. On the 1 5th we bore away to the northward, having crolTed thc meridian of Greenwich, and on thc 17 th, at noon, reached thc parallel of M. Bouvet's difcovery of Cape Ch-cumcifion, when wc again ran to thc call ward that we might not mifs it. Thc weather was favourable for the purpofe ; we had a fair wind, and could fee to the diftance of eight or ten leagues. On thc 19th, in thc morning, wc croflcd thc place where this cape is laid down by M. des Lozicrs Bouvct, according to his own journal *, without having at that time thc lcail figns of land, or pafling more than four or five iflands of ice in the courfe of the whole day. Wc continued to run on in the fame parallel till tlic 2 2d, hav- Wedeefd. 2«. • Sec Mr. DilrympU'l Collection of Voyages in thc Southern Athmtic Ocean, tag ing then explored fix degrees of longitude to the well: of M. Bouvct's fuppofed land, and about feven degrees to the eaft of it. Captain Furncaux likewife, after failing over the fpace where the Gulph of St. Scbailian is delineated in the charts, and pafling between our two difcoveries of Georgia and Sandwich Land, croflcd the meridian of Cape Circum-cifion, in the latitude of 5*4° S. without meeting with land. From thc joint authority of thefe two tracks, wc have great room to fuppofc, that Mr. des Lozicrs Bouvet faw only a field of ice, with fuch huge mountainous iflands of ice upon it, as wc fell in with on the 1 41b of December, 1772*. Some of our officers were at that time flrongly of opinion that they faw find, as the iec bore a itriking rcfemblance to ir, and thc French captain might be deceived in thc fame manner. Captain Cook was unwilling to leave it in doubt whether there was land or not in the fituation of that field of ice fcen in thc beginning of our voyage ; and therefore directed his courfe acrofs it on thc 23d, without meeting with any'obflaclcs in hr> way, nor feeing a fmglc iiland of ice in thc fame fpot which had been covered with immenfe floating mallcs about two years and two months before. Being now well aflurcd that there was no confulcrable land in this put of thc ocean, we fleered to thc northward, in order to make thc bed of our way towards the Cape of Good Sec vol. 1. p. 98. I lope. Hope. The winds being north-wefterly, and blowing very ul7Jsi frefh, obliged us to make a great deviation to the eaft of our proper courfe, till thc firft of March, when wc could wednefo i. fleer directly towards the Cape. Thc wind, however, foon fhiftcd, and blew from its former quarter at fcveral intervals. Its frequent changes occafioncd great difcontcnt among our fhip's company, whofe expectations of putting an end to their diftreffes, were wound up to thc high eft pitch. Thc clouds had perhaps never before been fo attentively examined, in order to find fome prognoftics of a fair wind in their appearance, and the general uneafinefs and impatience at an unfavourable change can fcarccly be dc-feribed. Our voyage had now laftcd twenty-feven months after leaving thc Cape of Good Hope, fince which time wc had not touched at any European port, and lived chiefly Upon fait provifions. The fum total of all-the days which wc had fpent on fliore at different iflands, and at very great intervals of time, did not amount to more than one hundred and eighty, or about fix months. This was the only time of rcfrcflimcnt in thc courlc of our long voyage, and yet during part of this, cfpccially thc laft year's cruize, wc obtained no frefli provili ns at fcveral iflands. The run from New Zeeland towards the Cape of Good Hope was by far thc longeftand moft difficult which we had ever made; for thc trilling rcfrclhmrnts which wc obtained in Chrift-mas Sound, and at the New Years Iflands, did not afford the iftl?cir, the crew more than four or five frefh meals. If wc add to this, thc deficiency of fuch a falutary article of provifion as four krout, and the continual progrcftivc decay of our fait meat, it cannot be very furprifing, that towards the latter end of this run, the hardfhips of our unnatural fituation mould become more intolerable than ever. Several obvious reflections likewife encreafed our uncafinefs, in proportion as wc advanced towards a place which had fome intercourfe with Europe. All thofe who had left behind them relations and parents, were apprehenfivc thai they had loft fome of thc number during their abfence ; and it was more than probable, that this interval of time would have diflblvcd many valuable connections, diminished the number of our friends, and robbed us of the comforts which wc ufed to find in their fociety. Wcdndd. 15. Notwithstanding thc frequent changes of wind, wc advanced to the northward fo far, that wc began to change our cloaths on thc 15th, being then between 15? tod 36^8. The next morning, at feven, wc law a (hip to the windward of us, and about three hours afterwards we came in fight of another; and the cagcrnefs with which every pcrfon oil board bent his eyes towards thefe welcome objects, was the ftrongeil proof of that univcrfai longing for an intercourfe with Europeans, which, though hitherto liknt, now broke out into loud and fervent wilhes. It was thought proper to hoift Dutch colours, upon which thc fhip in fight bodied thc thc fame; we then hoifted the Britifh flag, and fired a gun MJlc5i, to leeward, but the ftranger Rill continued to fliew the firft. As wc were now arrived in a part of the fea frequented by European fhips, captain Cook called together all his officers and failors, and in the name of thc Admiralty board, demanded their journals and log books, which were all packed up and fealed. Thofe who did not belong to the military eftablifhmcnt *', were not fubject to this reftriclion, but pro-fcrved their papers, being only rcqucftcd not to divulge the particular fituations of our late difcoveries, previous to their arrival in England. The zealous and candid concern for the advancement of the feiences, which animates thc Britifli government, has not fuffercd them to conceal thc improvement which different branches of knowledge have received under their aufpiccs ; and it were to be wifhed, that fo laudable and generous an example, might be followed by other maritime powers, who at prefent feem to Real into thc South Seas, and to he afhamcd of owning that they have been there. Thc fhip in fight fccmcd to be a homeward bound Dutch Incliaman, and held the fame courfe with us, but we gradually came up with her. On the 17th in thc morning Friday 17. wc founded, and found bottom with fifty-five fathom, being arrived on thc bank which runs off thc fouth end of * Mr. Wale, Mr. Ilod-'i;, my father, ami myfelf. Vol. II- A A Africa. MlVci. Africa. Some fifhing lines were thrown overboard, and iv fifh called a pollack was caught. In the evening wc made thc coaR of Africa, which here conftfted of low fandy hummocks, and on which we perceived feveral fires. Thc Saturday 18. next morning a boat was hoilled out, and fent on board thc Indiaman, which was now about five miles off. Our people returned in a few hours with thc welcome news, that there was univcrfal peace in Europe. Thc plcafurc of this intelligence, was however, in a great mcafurc foured by an account of thc maffacrc of the Adventure's boat's crew. Thc Dutch captain having been long at fea from Bengal, la-mcntcd that he had no refrefhments to offer us. In the afternoon, thc weather being very fair, and the breeze freshening, wc got fight of two Swcdifh, one Danifh, and an Englifli fhip, which glided along with all their fails fcr, and colours Hying, and offered to our eyes one of thc mofl plcafing fights which wc had beheld for fome time Sunday i9. pad. The next morning, the Englifli fhip bore down to US, and lieu tenant Gierke, with my father, and a mid fhip-man, went on board of her. In the afternoon, a ftrong breeze fet in, our boat returned, and the Indiaman carefully. Rood off to fea, whilft wc proceeded till wc were clofe in fhore. This fllip was the True Briton, captain Broadlcv.on her return from China. Our gentlemen fpukc in thc ilrongcll terms of the hearty hofpitality with which they had been received, and invited to a pLin dinner. Our readers readers may imagine with what avidity three famifhed cir- march. cumnavigafors, who had not feen frefli meat for fix weeks pall, feU upon a difh of fattened Chinefe quails, and a delicious goofe, which their ho ft reckoned a very homely fare. On relating how long they had been abfent from any European lettlcmcnt, how long they had lived upon falt-bcef, and how oft they had regaled themfclves with feals, albatroffes, and pinguins, the captain and his mates dropt their knives and forks, and in pure pity to thc ftrangcrs, rcfigncd all prctenfions to their dinner. At parting, captain Rroadlcy prcfented them with a large fat pig, and feveral gecfc, on which wc dined thc two following days. Wc palTcd Cape Agulhas on the 20th, and were near being blown far to leeward of thc Cape, by a very hard gale, if wc had not difcovercd the land through thc haze early on thc 21R. We hauled up for it, and carrying more fail *han wc had ever ventured to do, in thc courfe of the whole voyage, wc came fafc to an anchor in Table Bay, on the w\c). We returned on board at noon, where we faw only fix turtles which had been caught over night, their laying feafon being almofl at an end. Thc officer who had been lent to the caflward, found the wreck of a (hip (here, which appealed to have been partly con-fumed by fire, and was probfcbly run on fhorc by ihc people, in order to favc their lives. Thc dillrcfsful fituation to which fuch a let of men mull have been reduced, in this barren iiland, before a fhip could take them up, drew an expidlion of pity even from thc failors. But their mif- fortunc fortune was now become our advantage ; for our provifion lllx. of fuel being very low, captain Cook fent his boats to take in a fufficient quantity of thc timbers of this wreck. About eight in the evening, it being then quite dark, a fmall vcffd came into thc bay, and anchored directly within us. Captain Cook having hailed her repeatedly, received in anfwer, that (he was thc Lucretia, a New York floop, which had been at Sierra Leon, and was now come to catch turtles, in order to fell them at the windward iflands of thc Well Indies. A lieutenant was fent on board, who learnt from thc mailer, that he had taken our fhip to be a French Indiaman, and was very defirous of trading with Englifli India-filips, in which he was difappointed by thc Company's regulations. He dined with our officers the next day, but on the 31A at day-break, left thc iiland. On the ^oth in the morning, wc landed a fccond time, and crofling the plain, arrived at a prodigious lava current, in-tcrfcetcd by many channels, from fix to eight yards deep, which bore llrong marks of being worn by vail torrents of water; but were at prefent perfectly dry, thc fun being in the northern hemifpherc. In thefc gullies wc found a fmall quantity of foil, confiding of a black volcanic earth, mixed with fome whitifli particles gritty to the touch. Here wc law fome fmall bunches of purflane, and a fpecies of grafs (pj/iiiiwi jdiiruincumj which found fuflicicnt nutriment ini in the dry foil. Having at 1 a il with great fatigue, climbed over this extenftve and tremendous current of lava, which was much more folid than the heaps nearer to thc fea, we came to the foot of thc green mountain, which even from thc fhip's place in thc bay, we had plainly diftinguilhcd to be of a different nature from all thc reft of thc country, Thofe parts of the lava which furrounded it, were covered with a prodigious quantity of purilanc, and a kind of new fern (hnchitis adjaiifnnis) where feveral flocks of wild goats were feeding. The great mountain is divided in its exit cm ities, by various clefts into fcveral bodies, but in thc centre they all run together, and form one broad mafs of great heigh*, The whole appears to con lift of a gritty tophaceous liinc-llone, which has never been attacked by the volcano, but probably exillcd prior to its eruption j its fides are covered with a kind of grafs, peculiar to thc ifland, which Linnnus has named arijlidi aficnfionis. Wc likewife obfervcd feferal (lock ; of goats feeding on it j but they were all cxccllively fhy, and ran with furprifing velocity along tremendous precipices, where it was impoilible to follow them. The mailer of the New Yoik (loop acquainted us, that there is a fpring of water on one part of this mountain, which falls down a great precipice, and is afterwards ab-forbed in thc find. I am almoil perfuadetl that with a little trouble, Afcenfion might fliortly be made fit for thc rcfidcnce of of men. The introduction of furze fulex europaus), and jjjg* of a few other plants which thrive befl in a parched foil, and are not likely to be attacked by rats or goats, would foon have the fame effect as at St, Helena. The moiflure attracted from thc atmofphere by the high mountains in the centre of the iiland, would then no longer be evaporated by the violent action of the fun, but collect into rivulets, and gradually fupply the whole iiland. A fod of graflcs would every where cover the furface of the ground, and annually encreafe the ftratum of mould, till it could be planted with more ufeful vegetables. We returned gradually to Crofs Bay, in the heat of noon, over thc plain, having a fpace of more than five miles to travcrfc, where the fun burnt, and bliilered our faces and necks, and heated thc foil to fuch a degree, that our feet were likewife extremely fore. About three o'clock we arrived at the waters-fide, and after bathing in a fmall cove among a few rocks, wc made the fignai for a boar, and were taken on board. The next forenoon Wedneta. 31, wc made another fmall cxcurfion, in company with captain Couk, towards the Green Mountain, but wc were all of us fo much fatigued that we could not reach it. Wc made no new observations in thc courfe of this day, thc nature of thc ifland being dreary beyond defcription, in its outlkirts. In thc afternoon wc hoillcd in all our boats, and fet fail, Vol. II. 4 E having having taken twenty-four turtles, weighing from three to four hundred pounds each. They lafled us three weeks, one and fometimes two being killed every day, and the fhip's company receiving as much as they could eat of this wholcfome and palatable food. C H A P. CHAP. VIII. Run from Afcenjion, pafl the IJland of Fernando da Noronhat to the Acores.—Stay at Fayal.—Return to England. ETER leaving Afccnfion wc made a good deal of T welling, infomuch that we came in fight of the Ifland of Fernando da Noronha, near the coafl of Brafil, on thc tjxh of June, about one o'clock in thc afternoon. Tire longitude of this iiland being hitherto unfettled, captain Cook only ran in fight of it, in order to determine its true fituation. Amcrico Vcfpucci, whofe name has fince been given to the continent, of which he was one of the firfl difco-verers, fell in with this ifland in his fourth voyage, fo early as the year 1502 * j but in what manner it received its prefent name remains unknown. In 1733, tnc French India Company made a fmall fcttlcmcnt on it; but the Eor-cuguefc laid claim to it, and took pofleflion of it, in 1739 j. According to thc charts of thc French, all thc interior part of thc ifland confills of cxtcnfive plains, which arc furrounded by fcveral hills along thc fea-fhorcs f. We ap- * See Ramulio R.itxolca di Viaggi, jfc, torn. I, j>. 129. I Don Antonio UHoa's Voyage to South America, vol. II. may be confultcd, where fome account of thc Portugufe fcttlcmcnt is infertcd. I A very fine plan of the ifland \s publilhcd in M, Buache's map, intitlcd, C.nrtt de U Pirtit dt I'Oican ins YEquattur rtttre Us Gates d'Afrique fcf th, wc direcTed our courfe towards the Acorcs, commonly called thc Weftern Illands in Englifli charts ; and on thc 1 3th, at four in thc afternoon, faw thc Ifland of Fayal; Early thc next morn- FriJay Hi> ing we flood in for thc find, and gradually came in fight of thc lofty Ifland of Pico, of which the fkirts appeared to be covered with verdure and habitations. Towards feven we drew near the road or bay on thc Ifland of fayal, where fhipa mips commonly anchor. Thc Portuguefc mailer of thc port came off to us in a fmall boat, in order to point out a fecure place of anchorage, where three vclTels were already moored. He acquainted us in French, that one of theft, a fnow under Portuguefe colours, had lately arrived from Para in thc Brafils, having, through the ignorance of her conductor, milled the Cape Vcid Iflands, to which flic was bound. Another fmall vcflcl, which did not flicw any colours, was a North-American iloop. Thc third was the Pourvoycufc, a French frigate, whofe captain, M. d'l tkllc, with great politencfs fent a lieutenant on board, to offer his fcrvicci, to captain Gx)k. After coming to an anchor, an ofliccr was fent on fliore to the commandant of the fort, in order to make thc ufual enquiry with regard to thc falute ; but after being detained feveral hours, he was told that thc fort always returned two guns lefs than it received, for which real OB wc did not think proper to pay the compliment. Thc American floop fet fail in thc afternoon, being greatly apprchenfivc of fome mifchancc from us, though we were inclined to he at peace with all the world. The appearance of the town, from thc fea fide, made nearly thc fame rmpreflion on us, ta that of Funchal in Madeira. It lies along thc fliore of thc bay, and rifes in thc form of an amphitheatre upon thc hill, with an cafy Hope. Its churches, monaflcrics, forts, and flat roofed Iioufe^, which arc for thc greatefl part white, produce a very very pleafing effect. Thc hills beyond the town are fome of thc richeft that nature and induflry ever adorned. They were at this time loaded with ripe corn-fields, interfperfed with gardens, groves, and various buildings, which bore evident marks of a great population, and raifed every idea of plenty. There are two forts which command the bay, one at each extremity of the town, but thc fouthcrnmofl is thc mod confiderahlc. • Immediately after dinner captain Cook, accompanied by my father and myfelf, went on fliore at the foot of thc fouthern fort. We were no fooncr landed than we plainly difcovercd from what motives the Portugucfc had refilled to return an equal falute. Thc cannon rcftcd on rotten carriages, which it was not prudent to cxpofe to the lliock of a difchargc ; and thc greater part of them were placed on a rampart, which was infinitely too narow to be fit for ufe. Bcfidcs this, we were afterwards informed, that the cxpcncc of powder, upon fuch occafions, was deemed fupcrfluous by thc prefent occonomical minillry in Portugal. Wc walked through great part of the town, which is named Villa da Horta, and extends a mile and a quarter in length, confining chiefly of one irregular ftrect, interfered by a few fmall lanes. The pavement is made of large flones, and tolerably clean, being little frequented. Thc houfes arc contrived exactly in thc fame manner as thofe of Madeira, with projecting balconies which are roofed at the top, and: have have lattices that may be lifted up occafionally, fupplying the place of windows. After wc hadVifited the churches, of which there are three, dark and Gothic like thofe of Madeira, we were conducted to Mr. Dent, thc Englifli deputy-conful, who received us very kindly, and offered Mr. Wales, my father, Mr. Hodges, and myfelf a lodging in his houfe during our Hay. He accompanied us next to the different convents within thc town. One of thefc belongs to thc Erancifcan Cordeliers, who arc twenty in number, bcfidcs feveral lay-brothers j and, according to their own account, teach rhetoric, philofophy, and divinity to the children of thc inhabitants. Another, fituatcd on an eminence, contains twelve Carmelites, with their lay-brothers. Thc third lies on a hill above thc town, and belongs to twelve Capuchins, with fume lay-brothers. Thc fourth i3 placed in thc hell and moll confpicuous part of thc town, and was formerly thc college of the Jcfuits, but is now converted into a court of jullicc, a part of it being rclcrvcd for a public fchool. It cannot be expected that learning fliould flourish in all thefe dreary cells. The monks being here entirely cut oil from thc means of acquiring knowledge, are content to live comfortably and agreeably, without undergoing thc fatigues of fliuly. The two nunneries next attracted our attention ; thc one is dedicated to St. John, and contains one hundred and fifty nuns of thc order of St. r.lata, with as many fcrvants. They wear a long cloak, of dark dark brown fcrgc, over another of white callicoe. Eighty jVZy, er ninety nuns, of thc order of NoiTa Senhora de Conceicao, occupy another convent, with an equal number of fervants. They wear white drcflcs, and have a piece of blue fiifc fixed on the bread, together with an image of the Virgin on a filver plate. The reception which wc met with at their grates was very polite ; but we could not convcrfc with them for want of knowing their language. Their pronunciation was very foft, and in a finging tone, which wc fliould have taken to be affected, if we had not afterwards found it general among all ranks of people. Thc features of fome were very agreeable, and their complexions fairer than we expected, though in general rather languid. Religion had not yet fo entirely occupied their breafl, as to extinguish every fpark of corporeal lire; their eyes, which were indeed their iincil features, flill betrayed an attachment 1 1 nature; and if there is truth in the hundredth part of the accounts which wc heard at 1 ayal, love reigns with ab-1 lute fway in the midfl of their cloiilcrs. After walking about till funfet, wc returned to Mr. Dent's houfe, and were introduced to a Portugucfe prieil, who fpokc Latin better than all thc friars in the different convents, and appeared to be a very intelligent man, whofe inquifi-tive turn of mind had got the better of many prejudices which were common among his countrymen. lie communicated to us a Spaniih literary and political journal, Vol, II. 4 F which *fr* which is read at prefent throughout the Portuguefc dominions ; the prime miniflcr having prohibited thc printing of any kind of gazette or news-paper in Portugal. This regulation greatly contributes to keep that kingdom in profound ignorance, which is the only fecurity of an oppreflivc government. The next morning we paid a vifit to thc officers of thc French frigate, who lodged at the houfe of Mrs. Milton, an Englifli woman, and a widow. This good lady, hearing we had been round thc world, flicd a flood of tears, and told us that our arrival put her in mind of thc cruel death of one of her fons, . who had embarked in captain Fur-neaux's fhip, and was one of thofe unfortunate men that were killed and devoured in l^pw Zeeland. Thc circum-flanccs with which his untimely fate was attended, arc much more horrible, according to thc ideas wc imbibe by education, than thole of any other manner of death, and could not fail of making a deeper imprcflion on thc un-happy parent. Her grief was likewife of that genuine kind, to which no feeling heart can rcfufe a fympathctic tribute i and it taught us to relief, how many mothers in Europe, and in the South Seas, have had reafon to wail the lofs of their fons, and to execrate thc enterprising fphit of mankind. Mrs. Milton, reflecting on thc many calamities which hid embittered her life, was refolved to fecure re-pofc and happincl's for her daughter, by placing her in one of • of thc nunneries of Fayal; without confidering at the fame time, that the world has charms at the age of fourteen, which lofe their attractive power at fifty. Her daughter was handfomc enough to difputc the palm of beauty with all thc Portuguefe ladies at Fayal. One of our officers, therefore, undertook to d;ffuade Mrs. Milton from her project, and allured her, in very blunt terms indeed, that fo far from doing a meritorious action, flie would incur thc eternal difplcafure of heaven. Whether a fcaman's admonition could have much effect I leave thc reader to determine ; Mrs. Milton, however, received it with good humour; and thc conversation which followed, gave a convincing proof, that religious motives were not fo urgent, in behalf of her daughter's confinement, as thofe of private intereft. From hence wc took a walk upon the hills beyond thc town, and found thc ground extremely well cultivated, all thc fields being cnclofcd by walls of flonc, in fome places cemented together, in others only wrapped in mofs. Thc people chiefly fow wheat of thc bearded fort, of which thc cars were very large, and the Ilraw of no great length. Bcfidcs this, they have likewife barley, which was already houfed ; and maize, or Indian corn, which grows in fome places under fine groves of chefnut trees, that greatly adorn thc country; but where it Rands in open fields, they mix it with French beans. Near the cottages wc found fome fields of cucumbers, gourds, melons, and watcr- 4 F 2 melons, melons, together with fafflor, which the Ponuguefe employ to colour their eatables yellow. Their orchards fupply them with lemons, oranges, plums, apricots, figs, pears, and apples. They have few cabbages, and their carrots degenerate, and turn white, which obliges them to fend for frefh feeds to Europe every year. They plant abundance of potatoes by the exprefs command of thc government, and fell them very cheap, becaufe they do not like to cat them. Large fvvect onions, and garlick, thc favourite greens of thc Portugucfc, arc plentiful on thc ifland; together with thc folanum tycopcrficon, thc fruit of which they call tomatos, and likewife abundance of flrawbcrrics. There arc a few vineyards on thc ifland ; but thc quantity of wine which is made is inconfidcrahlc, and it:; quality very indifferent. Their oxen are fmall, but the meat very good, though they arc employed to draw thc plough and thc cart. Their fheep arc likewife of a very fmall breed, but thc mutton well tailed. Their goats and hogs arc long-legged ; and bcfidcs thefe, they keep abundance of poultry of all forts. Their horfes arc fmall and ill-looking; but alfcs and mules arc more numerous, and perhaps more fcrviccablc in this hilly ifland. The roads are much better than at Madeira, and every thing, upon thc whole, bears evident marks of greater indullry. The deafening noifc made by their carts is, however, very difagrccable, and owing to their aukward con 11 ruction. The wheels are formed of three large clumly pieces of wood> wood, bound by iron, and faftened to a Rrong axletree, which moves therefore together with the wheels, and turns in a round hole made through a fquare piece of wood, which is tranfverfely fixed to thc bottom of the cart. The cottages of the common people arc built of clay, and thatched with ftraw; and are fmall, but cleanly and cool. The inhabitants were in general fairer than thofe of Madeira ; their features, though limilar, were however fomcwhat foftcr; and their drefs was in general much more decent and comfortable, confifling of coarfe linen fhirts and drawers, with blue or brown jackets, and boots on thc legs. A fhort jacket and petticoat is the drefs of the women, whofe hair is tied in a hunch behind, and whofe features arc not always difagrccable. When they go to town, they put on a cloak which covers their heads, leaving only a fmall opening for the eyes, and is tied round thc waift. The men likewife add a broad-brimmed hat and a cloak upon thefe occafions. Wherever wc came wc found them employed; in the fields reaping their corn, or at home in various other branches of hulbandry ; and not one idle beggar made his appearance, by which means thc difference between this iiland and Madeira became dill more (hiking. We rambled to fome groves and wild fhrub-bi ries on the fummits of the hills, where we found abundance of myrtles growing wild among tall afpen-trcc?, and great quantities of beeches, which being called faya ffagus,/ in in thc Portugucfc language, have, it is faid, given occafion to name the iiland Fayal. Thc profpect from thefe eminences was very thJ ghtful, the town and road lying as it were under our feet, and the ifland of Pico oppofitc, at the diftance of two or three leagues. A number of canary-birds, blackbirds, and other fong-birds were heard on all fides and their harmony was the more enchanting, as it put us in mind of thofe European feencs from which wc had fo long been abfent. The whole country was filled with a variety of birds, among which wc particularly noticed prodigious numbers of common quails, fome American woodcocks, and a fmall fpecies of hawks, from whence this group of iflands was named Acores, that being the Portugucfc name of a hawk. Thc prodigious heat of thc day obliged us to return to the town about noon, and to take fheltcr in ihe lofty cool rooms of thc conful's houfe. I was however too much plcafcd with thc appearance of the country to pafs thc whole afternoon in town, and therefore accompanied Mr. Wales, Mr. Patton, Mr. Hodges, and Mr. Gilbert on another excurfion. Wc paflcd by thc Capuchin monaflcry of Sr. Antonio, which is fltuated on thc hill\ and being particularly defirous of feeing a rivulet, which would naturally cmbcllifh the landfcapc where it (lowed, we engaged two lively boys to become our conductors. Wc now croflcd fome romantic hills and groves, where Mr. Hodges took fcveral fketches, and foon opened a fine fine rich plain, laid out in corn-fields and paflures, in the midft of which Jay the village of Noffa Senhora de la Luz, furrounded by groves of afpen and beech. When we had reached this place we feparated, and Mr. Patton and Mr. Hodges only continued to walk to the rivulet with me. Wc were fomcwhat difappointcd, when we faw a very deep and broad bed of a torrent almofl entirely dry, except in one part, where an inconfidcrable brook appeared to wind its way among thc rocks and Rones. However, we were prevailed upon by our conductors to go down into this hollow, where we foon found a great number of young girls affcmbled about thc head of the fpring, employed in drawing water. Among them was one who, by her fair complexion and drefs, appeared to be of higher rank than the rcR ; notwithflanding this, flic had no manner of advantage over her companions, but like them filled her pails with water from thc fountain. Wc could not help being plcafcd * to find thc remains of patriarchal fimplicity among a civilized people, where thc fupcriority of rank is commonly marked by pride and indolence. From hence wc walked along thc bed of the river, which wc were told is filled to the top in winter, when heavy rains ufually happen in this ifland, Thc people told us they expected a fliower, and had, for that reafon, laid great quantities of flax in bundles into thc dry bed of the ton cut, in order to be foaked. This flax appeared to be long, and of a good quality, and is manufactured nufacTured into coarfe linens on thc ifland. Wc came back to town much fatigued, when it began to grow dark, after having called at a pcafant's houfe on the road, where we drank fome of thc common wine of the country, which has a bitter taflc, but fecms to be very wholcfome. The rain, which thc people expected, really fet in as foon as wc were returned j and I was told it would be of infinite value to thc iflands at this feafon, by fwclling thc grapes with juice, which othcrwife remain no bigger than currants. During my abfence, my father had convcrfed with feveral Portugucfc, cfpccially with thc clergyman I mentioned before, from whom he obtained fome particulars relative to thc Azores, which have enabled me 10 give the following account of them. Thc Acores were firfl difcovercd by fome Fiemilh fliips, in »439» when fcveral families of that nation fettled ai Fayal, where one of the parilhcs flill bears thc name of Flamingos. For this reafon fome of the old geographers have called them the Flcmifli Iflands. In 1447, thc Portugucfc dilcovcred thc ifland of Sr. Maria, which is the caflcrnmoil of this group, then St. Miguiel (Michael) ami next Tcrccira. Don Gon/alo Vclho Cabral, commander of Almuros, fettled on Tcrccira in 1440, and founded thc but as he receives no falary, he poorly earns his bread by teaching the rudiments of Lai in. It mull be eonfeffed, that the import upon the wine, is not thc only one which is mifapplicd in this iiland. There is another much more confidcrablc, of iwo per cent, laid on all thc exports, the produce of which is intended to maintain thc fortifications in good repair. How-ever, it is at prefent thought fit to fuller thc batteries to decay, and to tranfmit thc money to Tcrccira, where it is not better employed. One tenth on all the productions of thc Accra belong to thc king, and the finglc article of tobacco, which is monopolized by the crown, brings in a confiderable fum. The poffeRion of thefc iflands, fmall as they are, can therefore never be indifferent to Portugal. Wheat and maize are the chief products of Fayal ; and of the former, it fends fcveral fhip loads to Liibon in plentiful years. Some flax is likewife railed there; hut the wine known by thc name of Fayal wine, is all railed on the iiland of Pico, which lies directly oppofitc, and has no harbour. harbour. The number of inhabitants in Fayal is computed at i 5 o oo, distributed in twelve pariflies; and one third of the number live in the town, or Villa da Horta, which contains three of the above pariflies. Its road or bay is reckoned tolerably fafe in fummer, but in winter it is open to fouth and fouth-cafl winds, which, I was told, blow hard at that feafon. However, as the bottom is a good fand, thc American vcRels fometimes ride there in the worfl weather, by three or four anchors. The wine of Pico is chiefly carried from Fayal to North America, and to Brafil. The ifle of Pico has its name from the peak or high mountain upon it, which is frequently capt with clouds, and ferves thc inhabitants of Fayal nearly the fame purpofe as a barometer. The ifland is not only the grcateft, but alfo thc moft populous of the Azores, containing 30000 inhabitants. It has no corn-fields, being every where covered with vineyards, which have a moft enchanting appearance on thc cafy flopc at the foot of the mountain. Thc corn, and other neceflliries for the confumption of the natives, are therefore fupplied from Fayal, moft of the principal families of that ifland having large poffeflions on thc oppofitc, or weftern part of Pico. The feafon of vintage, is the feafon of mirth and feftivity, when a fourth, or even a third part of thc inhabitants of Fayal, remove to Pico with their families, down to thc fmalleft domeftic animals. It It is affirmed that a quantity of grapes, which would yield three thoufand pipes of wine, are eaten at that time, every pcrfon indulging his taftc with this delicious fruit, though no people are more fobcr and frugal at their meals than the Portuguefc. Formerly thc vintage produced annually 30000, and fometimes in fortunate years 37000 pipes of wine j but a kind of difeafe attacked the vines fome years ago, which caufes thc leaves to drop oR, at the time when the grapes require to be flickered from the fun*. Of late however they have recovered, and at prefent yield from 18000 to 20000 pipes a year. Thc bv.fl wine is made on the weft fide of thc ifland, in the vineyards which belong to the natives of Fayal. That which is raifed on the oppofitc fide, is convened into brandy, of which one pipe is made from three or four pipes of wine. The befl fort of wine is tart, but plcafant, and has a good body, which improves greatly by being kept ; a pipe of it is fold on thc fpot for between four and five pounds ftcrling. A fmall quantity of fwect wine is likewife made, which they call paMcla* and of which thc pipe is fold at thc rate of fevt n or eight pounds ilerling. St. George is a fmall narrow ifland, very flccp, and of confidcrable height. It is inhabited by 5000 perfons, who .cultivate much wheat, but fcarccly any wine. ) • I fufpett this to be caulcd by fome fye.cics of infects. Graciofa, Graciofa has a more gentle Hope than the former, but is likewife very fmall, and chiefly produces wheat, having 3000 inhabitants. a fmall quantity of indifferent wine is likewife made on it, which is converted into brandy ; from five to fix pipes of wine being required to make one pipe of brandy. Graciofa and St. George likewife have fome paftures, and export cheefe and butter. Terceira is the largeft iiland, next to Pico, of all the Aeores. It is highly cultivated with wheat, and likewife produces fome bad wine. As it is the refidencc of the governor-general, and of the fuperior court of juflice, as well as a bifhop's fee, it has fome kind of importance above the reft. Its inhabitants arc computed at 20,000, and its exports confift in wheat, which is fent to Lifbon. St. Miguiel is likewife of confiderable extent, very fertile and populous, containing about 25,000 inhabitants. They cultivate no vines, but abundance of wheat and flax, Of thc latter they manufacture fuch a quantity of coarfe linens, that three fhip-loads of them are annually fent to BrafiL The linen is about two feet wide, and the vara* of the common fort is fold for about one flailing and fix pence, which is to all appearance a very high price. The principal place on this ifland is a city named Ponte de Gada. Santa Maria is thc fouth-eaftcrmoft of all the Aeorcr-j and produces plenty of wheat. The inhabitants amount * Portugucfc yaril. to* to 5000, fome of whom manufacture a kind of coarfe earthcmware, with which they fupply all the illands. They have likewife built two fmall fliips lately, of wood which grew in their own iiland. I flatter myfelf that the above particulars, though inefficient to give a perfect: idea of the Acores, will not be unacceptable to my readers, efpccially as thefe iflands, being feldom vifitcd by Europeans, arc little known, notwithftand-ing their fliort diflance from us. Wc paflcd the Sunday in vifiting feveral churches, and accompanied captain Cook, in the afternoon, to thc different convents, Each of them has a church annexed to it, where wc commonly faw two pulpits, oppofitc to each other. It is ufual here, at certain ftatcd timc9, to allow the devil to defend himfelf in one of thefe pulpits, whilfl he is arraigned in thc other ; but at thc fame time it may be fupcrfluous to mention, that Satan is always furc to be defeated, though hi* opponent were thc moll ignorant monk that ever was fattened in a convent. Mofl of the ahars arc made of cedar wood, and perfume thc wdiolc church very agreeably. In the evening we faw a great proceflion, at which all the clergy in town aflilled, and where mod of thc principal inhabitants likewife took part, by walking in black gowns before thc I loft. The commercial intercourfe with the North-Americans fecms to have abated thc fpirit of pcrlccu-tion, gf which thc church of Rome is f inctimcs accufed in in other countries. When the hoR pafles, no perfon is in-fuhed, who does not choofe to perform an act of adoration; and Rrangers in particular are treated with a degree of civility on this fubject, which they do not meet with in the polite but flavifli metropolis of France. We took a walk thc next morning upon thc hills to the northward of the town, which furniflicd fome of the moR beautiful profpects. All the roads were lined with tall fliady trees, and on both fides were corn-fields, gajllcns, and orchards. We were able to overlook thc whole,plain, r in which the village of Noffa Scnhora de la Luz is fltuated, and beyond it viewed a ridge of hills, which lead to the higheft part of thc idand. There is a deep circular valley, as I was informed by thc inhabitants, on thc fummit of one of the hills, about nine miles from thc town. This cavity is about two leagues in circumference, and its fides Rope uniformly down, covered with a rich herbage, where many fheep are grazing in flocks, which, though belonging to private perfons, arc almofl entirely wild. Rabbits and quails likewife arc plentiful on its fides, and at the bottom there is a lake of frefli water, well flocked with wild-ducks. Thc water is faid to be about four or five feet deep all over it. This excavation, called La Caldeira, or thc Kettle, from its figure, fecms to be thc crater of a former volcano ; which becomes fo much thc more probable, as wc know that fome other volcanos have exided in thc Vol. II. 4 11 Acorea, Acores. That remarkable mountain, which rofe to the furface of the fea, forming a new iiland, in the year 1638, clofe to the iflands of St. Michael, was doubtlefs produced by the action of a very powerful volcano ; and though it funk again within a fhort fpace of time after its formation, yet its momentary appearance fufficicntly overthrows thc aiTenion, that only thc higheft peaks of the world can have internal fires *. Thc ifland which appeared between Tcrccira and St. Michael, in November 1720, was exactly of the fame nature, and confirms thc above circumftanccs. Thc lofty fummit of Pico likewife conftantly emits a fmoke, which we were affurcd of by a Portugucfc captain, named Xaviers, who hud taken the pains to climb to the top ; and this fmoke may be feen on fair days at Fayal, very early in the morning. Earthquakes arc likewife very common at all thc Acores, and fcveral fhocks were felt at Fayal three weeks before our arrival. It appears therefore that almofl all thc iflands of thc Atlantic Ocean, like thofe of the South Sea, have velligcs of former volcanos, or ftill contain burning mountains, at this moment. * Sec an account of this remarkable volcano in thc Memoirei dc I Acad, de Paris, dc 1721, p. 26. Ibid, 1721, p. 12. Phi). Tranf. abridged, vol. VI. p. 154. and Rafpc Specimen Hilt. N.it. (Jlobi Tcrraquei. Amtt. 176j. p. 115. The l.ill mentioned author has collected every thing relating to thc hiltory of volcanic illands, known at thc time when he wrote; and having treated thc fubjeel as a man ot fcience and genius, his book is very fit to be perufed by thc tribe of fballow pretenders to knowledge, who diefs in borrowed plumes. Wc Wc returned to town, after vifiting the country-houfe and gardens belonging to one of thc principal inhabitants, which were contrived with more tafle than could be expected in this iiland. We were extremely fenfible of the heat, which was very great at this feafon, though wc came from thc torrid zone. In general, however, the climate of thc Acores is faid to be very happy, falubrious, and temperate. The fevcrities of winter are never felt; thc winds indeed arc fometimes boiftcrous at that feafon, and the rains more frequent, but froR and fnow appear only on the higher parts of thc peak. The fpring and autumn, as alfo thc grcatcft part of fummer, are reckoned delightful ; fince a fine breeze of wind commonly cools the air fufTiciently to mitigate the heat of the fun. In thc afternoon, M. EArics, thc French conful, went with me to thc convent of St. Clare, where his whole family paid a vifit to his fillers, who had taken thc veil. I was much fur-prifcd,that not even thc female relations were admitted within thc parlour grates, as this degree of rigid fcqueftration is uncommon. It is cuflomary for the nuns to olfcr their viators fome daintier to cat, but here they fcrved up a whole repair, which confided of fcveral rich and lufcious dillic$. That thc mind can be at cafe, and dffpoftd to fpiiitual meditation, when thc body is cxhauflcd with abilincncc and watching, fecms to be improbable ; but whether thc oppofitc extreme, thc luxury of a well furnifhed table, is better fuitcd to that 4 II 2 prin- JuiyI principal intent of monaflic life, may be doubted with equal juflicc. The next day, about noon, having taken leave of all our acquaintance, wc returned on board with the conful, and fcveral Portugucfc, who honoured us with their company at dinner; wc paflcd thc afternoon very agreeably, their con-verfation being cafy and chcarful, the rcverfc of that haughty taciturnity which is the general character of the Portugucfc nobility at Madeira. They were put on fliore in the evening, and at four the next morning we weighec, and fet fail with a fair wind. Wcdncti. 19. We palled by thc iflands of St. George and Graciofa, and came in fight of Tcrccira at noon. About three o'clock in thc afternoon wc failed along its north fide, which exhibited the richefl corn-fields, and various villages furrounded by trees. Wc took leave of it in thc evening, and then directed our courfe to thc channel. On thc 2 9th, at four o'clock, wc faw thc Start Point and Eddiflonc light-houfe near it, the fame parts of the Englifli fliorcs which wc had lafl feen s»«wi.Mo. at thc beginning of thc voyage. Thc next morning wc palled through thc Needles, and fwiftly failing between thc hie of Wight and thc fertile fliorcs of Hampshire, came to an anchor a little before noon at Spithcad. Thus, after cfcaping inuumcrablc dangers, and fuller ing a long feries of hardfliips, wc happily completed a voyage which had laflcd three years and fixtcen days; in thc courfe courfe of which, it is computed we run over a greater fpace of fea than any lliip ever did before us; fince, taking all our tracks together, they form more than thrice thc circumference of the globe. We were likewife fortunate enough to lofe only four men; three of whom died by accident, and one by a difeafe, which would perhaps have brought him to thc grave much fooncr had he continued in England*. The principal view of our expedition, the fearch after a fouthern continent within the bounds of the temperate zone, was fulfilled ; we had even fearched thc frozen fcas of the oppofitc hemifpherc, within thc antarctic circle, without meeting with that vail tract of land which had formerly been fuppofed to cxift. At thc fame time, wc had made another difcovery important to fcience, that nature forms great maiTcs of ice in the midft of thc wide ocean, which arc deftitute of any faline particles, but have all thc ufeful and falubrious qualities of the pure clement. At other fcafons wc explored the Pacific Ocean between the tropics, and in the temperate zone ; and there furniflicd geographers with new illands, naturalifls with new plants and birds, and, • From thc billi of mortality in Europe, it is computed that three men in a hundred annually die ; according to which, wc/houJJ have loft at lend ten men. There;-fore, notwithstanding thc beft precaution* may be taken for thc future, yet, from the chance or probability of events, another fhip may not prefcrve her men in thc fame proportion as 01M ; and it would be extremely rath to fuppofc that this execp. tion could always be produced, merely by thc prophylactics and antifcorbutics we fead on board. above. jJly. above all, the friends of mankind with various modifications of human nature. In one extreme wc faw, and not without compaflion, thc dull, hungry, deformed favages of Tierra del Fucgo, incapable of guarding againfl the fevcri-ties of their wretched climate, and having their mental faculties reduced to that miferablc fituation which places them next to brutes. In the other, thc happier tribes of thc Society Iflands, beautifully formed, placed in a delightful climate, which fupplics all their wants ; fcnfible of thc advantages of a well-ordered fociety, affectionate towards each other, and accuflomcd to gratify their fenfes, even till they lead to cxccflcs. From thc contemplation ol: thefc different characters! the advantages, the blcflings which civili/.ation and revealed religion have diffulcd over our part of the globe, will become more and more obvious to thc impartial enquirer. He will acknowledge, with a thankful heart, that incomprehensible goudnefs which has given him a dillingurfhed fupcriority over fo many of his folio w-creatures, who follow the impulfe of their fenfes, without knowing thc nature or name of virtue; without being able to form that great idea of general order, which could alone convey to them a juR conception of thc Creator. Upon the whole, nothing appears more evident, than that the additions to the flock of human knowledge Which have been made during this voyage, however confidcrablc they may be when put in competition with what was known before, are are of fmall moment when compared with the immenfe variety of unknown objects which, even in our prefent confined fituation, are Rill within our [reach, and which, for ages to come, will probably open new and extenfive fields, where the human foul will have room to expatiate, and difplay its faculties with fuperior luflre. " Vcdi inficmc l'uno e l'altropolo, Lc ftcllc vaghc c lor viaggio torto ; E vcdi, '1 veder noftro quanto c corto ! PetR.ar.ca. FINIS.