VOYAGES
and
TRAVELS
THROUGH
The RUSSIAN Empire, TARTARY, and Part of the Kingdom of PERSIA.
By JOHN C O O K, M. D. at Hamilt
in  two volumes.
The  SECOND EDITIO
VOL. I.
Si ad honejiatem natt fawns, e.i nut Join expetenda eft, aut cette omtii por:-Here gravior ejl habvnda, quam rttiqua omnia. tul.
EDINBURGH:
Printed  for the Author, and Sold by E. & C. D 1 L L Y, London.
M/DCC,LXXVIft
t o
the   most noble
DOUGLAS,
duke    of hamilton, chattelerault    and brandon*
marquis   of douglas and clydesdale;
earl   of   angus,   a r r a n, lanark   and cambridge;
lord   aven, aberbrothick, polmont,   machan shire,
and innerdale; baron dutton;
Heretarle Keepi:r of his Majesty's Palace of holy-rood-house, etc. etc. etc.
My Lord Duke,
HAVING, by the appointment of your il-luflxious parents, had the honour to tend your Grace, the late Duke of Hamilton, and Lady Elifabeth, in the various difeafes and diforders incident to infancy and childhood ; and the happinefs, by the divine bleifing on a fafe practice, and an incefTant care to carry you through them, and preferve iuch precious lives, I, in refpecl: of thofe perils, and their ever uncertain events, now feel much pleafure and fatisfa&ion,  where I
formerly
ii DEDICATION.
formerly felt the moft fenflble pain and folli-citude.
Your Grace then, the fecond hope, is now, alas! (here foft pity fteals a tear) the firft; and, too foon, the Head of a moft an-tient, and a moft illuftrious Family ; but the bud is beautiful; for, in the dawn of youth, you bid fair for future eminence, and that you will in the day of manhood republish the virtues of your Great Anceftors.
Your Anceftors, an illuftrious Race! were, my Lord Duke, great fubjects, nearly related to Sovereignty, diftinguiftred in their feveral fuccefTtons for their wifdom and their valour, and by their firm and fteady adherence to Liberty, to Loyalty, and Religion : And your Grace, animated by their great example, fweetly blended with the milder virtues of the moft amiable Beauty and,Perfection imaginable, *' fo perfect, and fo peer-V lefs," will, I know it, begin early to e-nmlate their excellence, and, born a Prince, behave after a princely manner.
For it is not titles of honour, however many and fplendid, nor dignity of ftation,
however
DEDICATION. Ill
however high and elevated ; nor wealth, however vaft and various ; but true virtue, and inward worth, a foul fupreme, fuperior to fortune, to pafllon and pride, that ennoble humanity, make a man great, good, and god-like, and mark him out as the object of the veneration of die prefent, and the admiration of all fucceeding ages.
Meanwh ile, permitted by your Grace, a high and undeferved diftinction, I moll humbly, and with much diffidence, prefume to lay the following Travels at your Grace's feet, and pour forth my fervent prayers, that you may be endowed with the choiceft. gifts ; that you may tread in the paths of wiftlom and virtue, which alone lead to true glory and folid greatnefs ; and that you may live long, great and good, the pride of your country, as well as the prime of the Peerage, to adorn your high nation, and adore the Glorious Author of it.
With the mod profound, and the moll refpeclful efteem, I have the honour to be,
May it pleafe your Grace, Your Grace's mod humble, moft obliged, and moft devoted Servant,
JOHN COOK,
THE
CONTENTS.
Chap. I. The author's departure, and ivhat happened immediately before he left England Page 3
Chap. II. Of Elfineur and Cronjladt 6
Chap. III. The author fets out from Cronjladt, and arrives in St Petersburgh i 3
Chap. IV. Concerning St Petersburgh 14
Chap. V. Concerning the policy of the medicine chancery and council 25
Chap. VI. Concerning the hofpitals in St Petersburgh 3 o
Chap. VII. Concerning military regulations . 38
Chap. VIII. Differences of ranks in the fleet and army 4°
Chap. IX. The different degrees of honour in the army 41
Chap. X. Regulations for widows and orphans in the Ruffian fcrvice and religion 44 Chap. XI.    Concerning the  Ruffian religion^ their churches, &c. 46 Chap. XII.   A defcriptionof the chriflenijig of the water 50 Chap,. XIII.   Of the different degrees and cu-fioms of the clergy 51
% Chapo
Chap. XIV. Of the academy, admiralty, cafllc,
and joundery 55 Chap. XV. Of the exchange and markets     61 Chap. XVI.   A general defcription of the city, &c. 62 Chap. XVII. A continuation of the fame, and of Peter hoff 66 Chap. XVIII. Of Ranyhoam, Ruffian laws, nobility and gentry . 68 Chap. XIX. Injli tut ions of companies of merchants, &c. 75 Chap. XX. What happened at Peterjhoff, and elfezvhere 78 Chap. XXI. A continuation of what happened at Peterfl?off 8 1 Chap. XXII. The author engageth in the Ruffian fervice 84 Chap. XXIII. The author employed in the general hofpital 86 Chap. XXIV.   The author receives orders to march.   Great Conflagrations in St Peterf-burgb, and the criminals puniflied 04 Chap. XXV.   Anecdotes during the author's flay in St Petersburgh.   Coins, weights, and mcafitres                                         q q Chap. XXVI.   Concerning Ruffian meafures of extenflon 108 Chap. XXVII.   The author leaves St Pctcrfl burgh.    Account of the Earns 109 Chap. XXVIII.  What happened to the author in his way to Mofcow iii
Chap.
Chap.. XXIX. A continuation of the former 116 Chap. XXX. A continuation of the fame dif-
courfe 11 o
Chap. XXXI- A continuation of the fame, and
of our arrival in Mofcow 121 Chap. XXXII.   Short obfervations on Mofcow,
its bells, &c. 123 Chap. XXXIII. The author leaves Mofcow 125 Chap. XXXIV.   The author's journey from
Tula to Taverboff 128 Chap. XXXV. A continuation of the fame, and
fome account of the Cojjack government 144 Chap. XXXVI.   A continuation of the fame
148
Chap. XXXVII. Our return to Taverhoff by the river Don 159
Chap. XXXVIII. What happened after my arrival in Taverhoff\ ckc. , 17^
Chap. XXXIX. Concerning what happened to the author by Admiral Bredal, &c. 182
Chap. XL* A geographical defcription of the province of Veronits, its capital, and a natural hiflory of this country
Chap. XLI. Concerning the Ruffian and Turkijh war, from the year 1736, till the latter end of the year 1739 i 96
Chap. XLII. The operations of the armies in the year 1737 199
Chap. XLII I. The operations of the armies in the year 1738 208
Chap. XLIV. A continuation of the fuccefs of the Ruffian army 217
Chap.
Chap. XLV.   A continuation of the fuccefs of the Ruff'an arms ■ 225
Chap. XLVI. Concerning the fuccefs of the Ruffian arm in the year 1739 228
Chap. XLVII. A continuation of the fuccefs of the Ruffian arms wider the orders of Count Muinich 131
Chap. XLV III. A continuation of the fuccefs of the Ruffian arms under the command of Count Muinich       ; 238
Chap. XLIX. Concerning the nature of- the climate, and difeafes properly cndcmical, -with the author's opinion op the caufes 246
Chap. L. Concerning various anecdotes during my two years peregrination in and about Ta-vcrhoff 256
Chap. LI. A continuation of what lyappcned remarkable in Taverlwff, early in the fummer 1748 263
Chap. LI-I. A continuation of the fame fub-jeci 269
Chap. LIIL A defcription of the city and kingdom of aftrachan, 6cc. 292
Chap. LIV. Being an account of the Jaik n-vtr inhabitants, wid a relation of what paf-Jed there, with fome anecdotes which the author was informed of from creditable people, &c. 296
Chap. LV. What happened at our fir (I coming to Ajirachan 302
Chap,
Chap. LVI. Concerning the inhabitants, and o* ther people living in, and immediately about Aftrachan 306
Chap. LVII. Concerning tlx foil, animals, vegetables, and minerals about the city of Aftra-chan 314
Chap. LVIIL A continuation of the hiftory of animals 321
Chap. LIX. Concerning the different methods the Aftrachanians have to take fifty, cure them, and their method of making caviar, called by the Ruffians ikra 320
Chap. LX. Concerning minerals found about A-ftrachan 337
Chap. LXI. A defcription of the river Volga
34°
Chap. LXII. Of the garrifon and government of Aftrachan 345
Chap. LXII I. Concerning the commerce of A-ftrachan 348
Chap. LXIV. Concerning the occurrences 'which happened during the author's fir ft abode in Aftrachan 357
Chap. LXV. Concerning what happened in the year 1740 at Aftrachan 359
Chap. LXVI. A continuation of -what happened in the year 1740 366
Chap. LXVII. Continuation of what happened in the year 1740 370
Chap. LXVIII. The author treats of the different anecdotes, as they happened in the courfe of this year 375
Chap*
viii
The CONTENTS.
Chap. LXIX. Concerning Monfieur Pierre Pof-fet, and bis adventures 379 Chap. LXX. ^Concerning different affairs -which happened this year 387 Chap. LXXI. Concerning the death of the Em-prefs Anna lvanovna, Sec. 392 Chap. LXXII. An account of the fall of the Duke of Court and, regent of Ruflia, as the author was informed by creditable people, •when he -went to St Petersburgh 400 Chap. LXXIII.   A continuation of what happened in the year 1740, at St Petersburgh and Aftrachan 408 Chap. LXXIV.   What happened in the year ij^l 416 Chap. LXXV. Concerning the author's journey to St Petersburgh; what happened remark-able on the road, at St Petersburgh, and till his return 428 Chap. LXXVI. Concerning what happened in St Petersburgh 44 r
Chap. LXXVIL Declaration of war againft Sweden 453 Chap. LXX VIII. Concerning what happened to the author, and the cruel Crafna Schoke 458
INTRODUCTION.
THE public muft decide concerning the merit of the following travels: meanwhile their author, meaning well, and ambitious to pieafe, if he mould not improve his readers, hath ftrictly adhered to truth, and advanced iiodihig falle.
Impartial in his narrative, he endeavours to render it agreeable and entertaining by giving a juft and plain defcription of eveiy diftinguifhed place through which lie palled, or where he refided j and fahiy lays before the reader a general account of its laws and police* its religion, its manners and cuftoms, with whatever is curious, uncommon, or remarkable concerning it,
Afraid of being deemed tedious, he omits the mention of many obvious tilings: nor does he, as is but too often the cafe with travellers, affect the new, but always aims at the true, defpifing the ftilts of ftory, and regarding the ftandard of tilings, fo that all his accounts of them are authentic, and none of them counterfeit.
Long abfent from his native country, and, by his bulinefs, obliged to learn the language of others, he hath had little or no leiiure to cultivate that of Ms own ; hence the gentle reader will, he humbly hopes, generoufly forgive fome few deviations from purity, proprie-
A ty,
ii INTRODUCTION.
ty, or correclnefs of ftyle which may be found in die following (beets.
Plainnefs and fimplicity, and not pomp and elegance, have been liis aim ; and if he hath fucceeded in tliis refpecl, he fought no more.
The egotijm, fo frequent and familiar in dicfe his travels, can fcarce offend, as it is ef--fential to them.
Finally, feeling the frailty of an author, a i character to him entirely new, he, with much lbllicitude, but more fubmiffion, awaits the a-ward of die public, in wliich, be it praife or cenfure, he (hall moft refpeclfidly acquicfce.
voy-
VOYAGES
and
T   R   A   V   E   L S.
CHAP. I.
The Author's departure, and what happened im- . mediately before he left England,
ON the firft of May 1735* I was taken ill hi Chelfea with a malignant fever, from which, by the great care of Dr Sharp, I was . recovered; but it was fucceeded by a flow remittent one, which daily feemed to increafe, notwidiftanding that worthy gentleman let me want for nothing which a fkilful phyfician could adminifter ; whereon he, having con-fulted the late Dr Mead concerning my caie, was advifed by him to fend me down to Scot-land to the place of my birth, not doubting but my native air, with the aid of proper medicines, would carry off the fever, and accom-plifli my recovery.
I carefully followed this advice, and lived, about eight months in Scotland : but could fcarcely obferve any change for the better. Early in the year 1736, I refolved to go for Ruflkij hoping that the voyage, and change of
air, would do me fome fervice, or at leaft that I could but die ; and that was then a matter of no confequence to me, whether it fliould happen abroad, or at home.
Accordingly, in June I took fliipping for London, and on die fifth day of July fell down from Blackwall with the tide to Gravefend, in a fhip commanded by Mr Thomas Belchicr.
We arrived at Elfineur on the i odi, and at Cronftadt on the 29th of July. This paflage was thought by many to be one of the quick-eft ever made from London.
But here the reader will halt a little, till I fhall have told him of two trivial accidents which happened to me before I left this happy land of liberty and good fenfe.
The fhip having fallen down from London to Blackwall, we dropped anchor for the night; and the mafter went to London. My brother, the mate, two countrymen and I went on fliore to lpend the evening: We ftaid a-bout two hours, and were going to bid farewell to our countrymen, when the mate told me, if I had any gold to change it, and pay our fcore ; for, faid he, what I afterwards found to be falie, '* Britim filver is of greater " value than our gold in Ruffta." I then bid the maid, (as our hoft and liis wife were gone to the country on a vifit) get me change for a guinea. The maid foon came back with the guinea, and faid flie could get no filver for it; when, as I was juft going to pay our reckoning,
a
a waterman entered the room, and told us that lie would go and get it exchanged for filver. Upon enquiring, and the maid airuring us diat he was honeft, and well known to the whole family, I accordingly gave him the guinea, but never faw him more.-
Determined however to have juftice done me next morning, we flaid in the houfe tiH nearly eleven o'clock at night, when we were of a fudden furprifed with a female fcream, which feemed to indicate great diftrefs. Ever ready to contribute what help I could to the affli&ed, I ran to the room to the relief of the fair one, who, in an angry tone, told me, " that her houfe was of good repute, that no-" tiling of that kind had ever happened be-" fore diat time, that (he w^as miftrefs of the ' * houfe, and that the man in the room with her was her hufliand, and that they hop-*' ed to get us puniflied for defaming her " houfe."   My anfwer was, " Well, well, " good woman, I have been cozened out of a " guinea, and doubt not of getting fatisfac-" tion;" and fo returned to my company.
Soon after tliis affair, a real or pretended wratchman entered our room with his long pole, and ordered us to bed. We defired him to be gone, as we were honeft people, and making no manner of difturbance. Our mild anfwer made the fellow more bold, up^ on which we turned him out, and remained quiet, till we were alarmed with die ciy of the
Chip's
fhip's crew hoifting up the anchor, which o-bliged us to part with our honeft hoftefs, and me to put up with die foolilh lofs of my guinea.
In our paffage to Ruflia, I told our captain die whole tranfacrion.   He defired tlie narration under my hand; this 1 readily gave him, attefted by my brother, dhd the mate. In die year 1741,1 was informed by Captain Belcliier, whom I met at that time in St Peterfburgh, that liis crew at dieir return to London went to that houfe, got drunk upon the credit of the guinea, and at lafl prefented to the people of the houfe my attefted declaration, as payment of their reckoning.   The landlord and his family threatened, the llulors ran mad, and broke every thing, not leaving a finglc glafs window, nor any thing they could break, and lb with great fatisfaction retreated to London.
CHAP. II.
Of Elfuieur and Cronjladt.
AT Elfineur I went afliorc, till die fliip-mafter dilpatched fome bufinefs, wliich was linifhed in lefs than two hours ; I can therefore lay litde about die people, only that they teemed to lie veiy poor, but happy under the government of dieir king. They were extremely affable to us. I made only one general
T R A V  E  L  S. 7
neral renark concerning that town, as I was in no other, namely, that their native animals were very fmali, except themlelves- and their maflifF dogs.
At Cronftadt the fhipmafter told me that I (liould pay my compliments, without lofs of time, to the commander Admiral Gordon, clfe it would be very ill taken: Accordingly I went with him to a large palace, where the Admiral lived. As I entered the door, a man, Handing with proper niftruments, flopped me, and pointed to my flioes, which were covered with duft. He immediately cleaned them with -as great art as if he had been taught hi London. I offered him money, but a gentleman, who was walking in the lobby, forbade me, and, in good Englifh, afked me if I imagined their Admiral was not able to pay his fervants for doing their duty.   I excufed mylelf to him, and obferved, that as I imagined he was a Briton, he knew it was the cunom in that country to give vails to gentlemcns fervants-. He fmiled, and told me that it was no cuftom in Ruflia, and that dieir maflers took it as a very great affront; not only fo, but tliat it made them ufelefs ; as they mif-fpent then-money, and neglecfed dieir duty.   I could not deny the juftice of his remark, and he immediately hi the moft obliging manner (hewed me the room where the Admiral was. The Admiral afked me a great many pertinent queflions, and, in fhort, received me . . with
with that graceful eafe which is namra! to great minds.   Amongft other tilings he afked me, Whedier I had any acquaintances in Ruffia? and, Whether I was recommended to any pcrlbns who could be of iervice to me ? My anfwer was. That I knew not a fingle per-fon, nor did I afk for recommendations to a-ny,. He faid that a knowledge of bulinefs was the beft recommendation in that country, but at the fame tune an introduction to the principal overfeers, made every thing more eafy, and told me, that although Ruffia was but in its infancy in moft branches of arts and learning, yet I would experience as fmart an examination as in any country ; but doubted not that I fliould meet with juftice. He then fpoke to a geudeman wrho was in company with him, m die German language, and, after that, defired nie to wait upon diat gentleman tomorrow, who would give me a letter to the Arcliiator, who was Prefident of the Medicine Chancery, or College of Medicine, and that probably die Archiator would order me to be examined in a veiy few days ; and, if I was found qualified, he made no doubt of my being put in bufinef s without lofs of time. Next morning I got the letter from the gentleman, who was phyfician to the fleet at Cronftadt.
My fliort ftay in Cronftadt, and my ignorance of fortification will not permit my giving an exact or fatisfaftory account of the plage: Suffice it however to fay, that it is, con-
firfering
fidering its infancy, a port of no fmall ftrength, great fafety to (hipping, and good policy. The port is a femicircle on the fouth fide of die ifland, built from the bottom of the fea with Hones, and topped above with a ftrong ftage of timber, which fupports a great number of the largefl cannon.   From the middle of the femicircle, exactly oppofite the port or entry, is built a large tongue, fo far into the harbour, as to leave only room for fliips of the largefl fize to be warped in. The royal navy ly moored on the eaft fide, and fhipping from all trading countries ly on the weft fide of the tongue. Directly oppofite the port of this fine harbour, at a little diftance, is a fmall rock well fortified, and furnifhed with large cannon, called Crozvnjlott.   No perfons are allowed to have fire or candle aboard any fhip in the harbour: A candle is allowed in great need; but the candleftick muft be placed in a veflel with water.   All gun-powder is taken from the (hips before they enter the harbour, and fecurely put into the imperial magazines till the fhips are warped out, and ready to fail. Cook-rooms are built at a diftance from the fliips next die city, hi the harbour, fo that the water fur-rounds them on all fides, where the feafarino: people are allowed to drefs their meat. Fronting this harbour is a range of fine palaces, built of brick, for the great lea-officers, and their different courts.   Behind thefe buildings is the city, confifting of many wooden houfes,
B and
and one ot" die finert diy docks poflibly in die world; behind all wliich to die north is a large line and ditch, reaching from call: to well, on the rampart of which are many baftions with cannon. The whole ifland is naturally fortified on the eaft, north, and well, with {hallow water and many rocks and flones; and the city is alfb well fortified by art. The royal navy here coniifls of about thirty fhips of war; one of them, the Royal Ann, mounts 120 guns. The fortifications are defended by marines and failors. When any lliip is to be let into the port, a foldier is placed on board, to take care of f inuggling, and that the orders of police be ftrictly complied with. Their authority, if they behave well, is not fmall. Every morning and evening a large boat, with an officer, full of foldiers, is rowed round the {hipping, and at eveiy fliip the officer enquires, If all is well?
Two accidents happened wliilft I was there, of which I mull acquaint the reader. I bought an anchor of brandy at Elfineur: Before we dropped anchor at Cronftadt, I was informed that the cuftom-houfe officers would carefully vilit every cheft, and that my brandy would Hand a bad chance, though it was hi bottles. The mate deiired me to leave my key with him, wliilft I went with die Captain to wait on the Admiral. At my return I was informed, diat fo foon as eight or ten of thefe cuftom-houfe people few the flafks, they feated diem-
jfelves
felves round with a view to drink, faying, Boch dal, that is, " God hath lent," a very common expreilion among the Ruffians, when they accidentally meet with any good Juck. The mate, who was prefent, told them that thofe bottles belonged to a doctor; that there was poifon hi fome of them, but as the doctor was gone aihore, it was impofLble for him to fay which was good, or dangerous. Upon this they role condoling their misfortunes.
The other is; A pafFenger, who had a few watches to difpofe of, and a dozen of new hats. The failors, who had given him a good lefTon, fmuggled the watches eafily, but the hats coft more trouble, as each failor could take only one at a time on his head.  At lafl it was ob-ferved by one of the cuftomhoufe foldiers in a fhip which lay along fide of ours, that the failors went afhore with new hats, but returned either with old ones, or none.   This happened jufl as the whole cargo had been fafely landed over night.   Next day, in the afternoon, as the paflenger was going afhore, the difcovery was then made public; whereupon the foldier feized Mm, and wanted to take die watch from his pocket; for which, in place of delivering it, he gave the foldier a box on the ear; but the people on board inftantly fepa-rated them, fo that none of them were hurt. The foldier fwore revenge, and the mate, a very ingenuous good lad, told me, that our young paflenger was in no fmall danger of
B z being
being feverely profecuted; becaufe, he faid, which I afterwards found to be very true, diat the greatefl general durft not flrike a foldier when upon duty; that ignorance of the lan^ guage was the beft, and indeed a good plea: «' But," fays he, " if you'll take my advice, ** I hope to bring him off, at the going round *« of the evening boat." Accordingly die mace and I cauied prepare a quart mug of punch, but fo ftrong, diat it was at leaf! half ipirits, widi a large proportion of fugar; this, alter having feigned to drink to each other, we left on the capitain, and went into the cabbin, pretending bufinefs. The foldier wanted to talte die liquor; he did lb, found it palatable, tailed it again and again, and dius continued tipling till he had emptied the mug, fbolifhly believing it fair drink, and that we had forgot it. This was juft what the mate expected; for when the round returned, our foldier was fall afleep, and fo dead drunk, that, when roufed, he could not articulate one fenfible word. The mate told die officer, that he could not take upon him to anfwer for what might be done in the fhip, as die foldier was a thief, and was drunk, fleeping on the deck, with liquor he had flolen wliilfl we were engaged in bufinefs below; diat he believed he was dnmk in the morning, having without the leafl reafon abufed one of the paffengers, and wanted to rob him of his watch. The officer coming aboard, and finding the man
quite
quite fhipid, changed him immediately for another ; and forry was I next morning to iee him feverely whipped with rods. The foldier on board the other fhip, I was told, was afraid to complain to his officer, as he had not done liis duty, when he at firft made the obferva-tion ; for which neglect he wTould have been feverely punifhed.   But the other, that was punifhed, fuffered for two crimes in one ac-. tion; die firft was, in taking what was not his own, and the next, in getting drunk, efpe-cially when upon his duty.
CHAP. IIL
The author fits out from Cronftadt, and arrives in St Petersburg.
HAVING ftaid in Cronftadt three days, I went in a long boat to St Peterfburg, wliich is about 20 miles diftant from Cronftadt.   "We failed up the end of the gulf of Finland, wliich, to die eaft of Cronftadt, may be about nine or ten miles broad: The country on both fides is a riling country, covered over, as we thought, with lofty trees, moftly firs, wliich forms an agreeable profpect from the water; but there is much cleared ground, tho' in our fituation we could fee but little of it. The wind blowing high, and eafterly, accom-* panied with fuch thunder and rain as I never
faw before, and the ftorm encreafing to fucli a degree, that we were happy in getting our boat under the cover of trees, and moored on the weft fide of Vaiilie ifland; where, all wet, we covered ourlelves with die fails, and lay till the morning, near a haven called die Galley port, or Galerna haven.
On Sunday morning we failed up the north branch of the Neva, having Vaiilie Oftroff or ifland to the fouth, and the caf lie to the north fide, botli fhores well covered with barks, and fliips of a fmaller fize: We at laft arrived in the city, and lodged at the only Br cifh pub ic houfe in it, kept by one Frazer a Scotfman K
CHAP. IV.
Concerning St Petersburgh,,
HERE I do notpropofe to defcribc diis city, but only to take notice of the more remarkable places, of die royal palaces, different; courts, curiofities, cuftoms, and policy of the city; which, by die bye, is a pattern to all the reft of the cities in Ruffia. Tho' thci-e are feveral different palacrs in the city, I ftiall only mention three. The moft ancient and moft refpecfed, is a fmall houfe, wliich was built by the founder of the city, and father of the grandeur of the Ruffian empire, Peter the Great.   It is built of wood, confifting of
T Pv A V E L S.
15
a fmall kitchen, a room to do bufinefs in and dine, and a fmall bed-chamber, little bigger than a large bed-Head.    It has a gallery round it covered, where that great emperor ufed to walk in rainy weather, or when the heat of die fun was intolerable. k The firft boat built hi Peterfburgh by him, is placed at the end of this palace ; and bodi houfe and boat are covered over with a fhade of timber, to preferve them from the injuries of the air.   It flands on the north fide of the river Neva, near the citadel.   The next palace (lands on the fouth fide, is alfo built of wood, and is called the fummer palace. This was alfo faid to be built by the great Peter; but it differs much from the former, being a very great building, containing a good many fpacious rich rooms, well fupplied with die richefl furnitui-e, having the Neva on the north, and very fpacious gardens to the fouth, in wliich are fcveral pleaiure-houfes, pavilions, fliell-works, water-works, line ftatues, and a private play-houfe, with a beautiful lake, well flored with fifli, wliich will fwim to you upon tolling a bell on a flage, whence they get the grofs of dieir food.
Before diis palace there is a very fmall fliip mounting fix fmall cannon, faid to have been built by a Ruffian peafant,and presented to the great Peter, who called it Dadufhka or grandfather, and obliged every fliip, wliich was
built
x6     voyages and
built at St Peterfburgh, to pay their refpecT:* to it.
About half a mile down the fbuth fide of the Neva, Hands a noble pile of ftone, a very large fquare, containing a great number of fpacious rooms : This is called the winter palace. It is probably one of the fined buildings in Europe ; but die infide far outdoes the outfide- Surely no palace has nobler furniture, made of the finefl materials, and remarkable for the moft exquifite workman-fhip.   In tliis fquafe are lodged, not only the royal family, its retinue and attendants, but alfo the guards on duty, wliich are faid to be 500, and are changed every morning. A-bout a quarter of a mile fouth from the Neva, IS mother beautiful wooden palace biujt upon a canal.   I never was within it, but was told that it furpafied all the reft in gilding, rich finifhing and furniture, as it was built by the late emprefs Elizabeth; and it is probably very true, as flie loved grandeur, and in her conceits never conlidered expence. There are two others of lefs note.
The lupreme court, wliich abfolutcly rules the whole Ruifian empire, and all other inferior courts, is called the cabinet. In it die monarch prefides ; and, widi the advice of two or three principal officers of ftate, decides all fecret, perplexed, troublefome, and weighty affairs ; nor do diey give notice of any of their tranfactions to any other «ourt, except
they
they judge it neceflary ; and this is always done by way of a royal command, againll wliich there is no addrelfing, but by way oi petition in the humbled manner, never find ing nor even infinuating the fmalled fault, but refpecliully reprefenting the real date of the cafe, and moft humbly entreating re-confideration of the affair ; but this is never done till the monarch is verbally and cautioufly informed of the matter, and the great minifters of flate are gained over to aifift heartily in a repeal ; for, fliould they act in a lefs cautious manner, it would fur-prize none, if all the members of the inferior court were punifhed with death, as even the high fenate itfelf is not exempted.
The next two great courts are thofe of commerce and foreign affairs : Their names imply their natures. No court interferes with the bufinefs of another, except hi fome very particular cafes.
The next court is the high fenate ; it con-fifts of many or few members, as the monarch commands ; 24 or 36 are commonly the number : They have a prefident ordained by die cabinet. In this court all inland affairs are debated and difcufled ; but an appeal may be made to the cabinet: However, the appellant muft be Hire that juftice is on his fide ; for, fliould it prove otherways, no lefs than death is the punifliment. Tliis is die fupreme court of juftice and policy, to which all the courts of Ruffta, and all the provinces
C in
in it, mufl reibrt and addrefs for directions and relief. Tliis court is conflaiuly kep% where the Emprefs refides ; that, in cafe of any difficulty, rcdrcfs and directions may he had without lofs of time.
The next two courts fecm to be pretty c-qual in power and honour; they are the war-office and admiralty : They decide all affairs relating to the army and iiect, under the direction only of the cabinet. If money is wanted they apply to the fenate, if their demands are reafonable ; but if refilled or delayed, they only may, without danger of punifli-ment, apply to the cabinet. In all thefe courts, wliich confift of many members, the propo-fal is firft: debated, then the youngefl members opinions are afked; and when the majority agree to it, it then becomes a law ; but the minority have it in their power not to fubferibe the refolution, without finding fault with it, fliould the refolution afterwards be disapproved by the cabinet; thole who did not fubferibe it are never cenfured : Every member has a right to fubferibe, and, if a-greeable to bis confeience, he ought to do it. Every dubious matter is reprefented to the cabinet for their approbation.   If they act according to the regulations eftabliflied by Peter the Great, they never can be found culpable, altho', for weighty reafons, the cabinet fometimes do at leafl modify, if not alter, thofe regulations.
The
* The laic court is the policy.   In every province there is a general provincial policy, and every city has a private policy.   The Inferiors mull report regularly to their fuperiors. But all the provinces in Ruilia mull report to St Petcrfburgh-policy, and obey their orders. The policy is of very great ufe, and a great protection of the innocent and induflrious, as ity without lofs of time, apprehends, and pu-nifheth all fuch as are guilty of fmaller crimes, takes up, ^examines, and punifheth all idle people, and vagrants, of whatfoever condition or rank.   This way of exprerhng myfelf, by faying vagrants of whatfoever condition or rank, may appear ftrange to Britons; but it is, notwithstanding, extremely compatible with the conflitutions of that abfolute empire; for every nobleman and gentleman is obliged to ferve the flate, either in a civil or military ca» pacity.   Now there are fome who abicond ; and fueh I tenn vagrants: For when they are difcovered, they will, though of the bell family, be feized by the policy, and fent fo the department to wliich they belong,, to Hand trial, and the confequences of it.    It is to be obferved here, that no court can tiy any per** fon belonging to another department, except for capital crimes"; and in the courts of war and aclmirality, they are always tried by a court-marfhal, of wliich I fliall fay fometliing prefently.   No perfon wliatfoevcr can travel
from;
from one city or province to another, without a paflport from the department to which he properly belongs, fpecifying the number of his attendants.   Any gentleman may grant a paifpoi t to any of his houfehold, but it mult have annexed to it the policy feal. Peter the Great was fo very careful to prevent people travelling without proper paflports, that he conftantly ufed them himiclf, and had them regularly booked.  Thus at tliis day even am-balTadors, and field-maiilials at the head of their victorious armies, mull have pafTports, and confequendy all inferiors muft fubmit to the fame regulation.    It would be thought a great mark of flavery to be coiiflrained to have a paffport from Edinburgh to London, and that this paffport muft be examined at every city through which the perfon paffeth. I cannot deny diat it is fo ; but Hill, infuchan cxtenfive country as Kullla, I imagine it is very neceflary, and for the good of the people.   The defign docs not feem calculated only to keep people undergrcatfubjection,butto prevent idle people from going about to rob, plunder, or Heal from their neighbours, and to protect die innocent, diligent, and ufefiil fubject, and alfo to bring a fmall revenue into the treafiiry. Sup-pofe one with a regular paflport,tiavelling from StPeterfburgh to Mofcow, is robbed and murdered on the road, his friends are not long before they fufpect it.   They immediately apply to the policy.   The policy give nodce in
the
the news-paper, and without lofs of time fend off couriers to ail towns through wliich he was defigned to pafs, and orders to interior policies to report when that perfon palled through their dHlricts; at laft, e. g. they find that he palTed tlirough Novogorod, but after that never was feen on the whole road to Mofcow. The governor of Novogorod iffues out orders for his dragoons to purfue, and raiie the whole country, to fcour the deferts and woods. The country people at fuch a time never fail to feize all fufpecTed perfons, nor dare they harbour any who have no paffport; unlets they are refolved to fuffcr death.   They alfo fend off expreffes to all the neighbouring provinces. Every perfon is ftriclly examined.   Thus the reader will fee it is next to impoffible that rogues or robbers (hould efcape, unlei's upon the borders.   And although the robbers are foon feized, and punifhed with torture and a cruel death, the governor (hall fcarcely efcape degradation ; and though he fhould have the greateft intcreft, he will yet be lure to meet with a veiy fevere reprimand, and tlireaten-ed if he does not keep better order, and a more ftricr. out-look for the future.   He is alfo mulcted, to make good at leaft what value was loft, when the unhappy man was murdered. The governor muft bear all tliis ; but he alfo mulcts his inferiors. Thus you fee how much it behoves every one to take great care of the traveller j for if he is taken ill of any natural
dileafe,
difcafc, and death enfues, a uric! mqumtiori Is made about eveiy circumftance of his dif-eafe, what attendants he had, and what was done for his relief, that it may give his friends fatisfaction, and diat diey may recover what value he had, wliich his books or his attendants (hall dif cover. The great life of the policy will appear from two remarkable inftances which I (hall here recite.
When the late great field-marfliall Prince Michael Golitzin was a child, his mother (the old prince being dead) went out to the country, widi her numerous family, to pais a month in the fummer, for the benefit of the country air in the hot weather.   She left Mof-cow late in the afternoon with a numerous retinue, which, according to her rank, were well provided With arms.   They had not travelled fifteen miles till they Were attacked by a very great band of robbers.   There were feveral noblemen and gentlemen of the army with her, who encouraged the fen ants, and behaved themfelves fo gallantry, that they killed and wounded a good many of the robbers, not without lofs on their own fide : however, they could take no priibners, and were even glad diat it Was no worie.   At the beginning cf the conflict, the waggon, in wliich were the young prince with fome of liis brothers and lifters, was in the rear.   The waggoner, at the'very beginning, turned the horfes, and drove for Mofcow with all ipeed, and loft no
dme
time in acquainting the policy with what had happened, who, with all poilible expedition, fent off a numerous party to purfue and apprehend the robbers, who had built a cave in the middle of a thicket of thorns hi a wood, and had fo well taken care of tracks, that the party, though they foon met with their horfes, were fome time before they found out themfelves. However, they were at lad difcovered, apprehends ed, and carried to Mofcow, where they were tried, convicted, and condemned to a mod cruel and ignominious death, wliich they de-fervedly differed.
The next indance was that of a robbeiy, as I had it from a noble lady of great honour. A relation of her's, an old maiden lady, but very rich, kept a girl as waiting woman, for whom die had a great regard. A young fellow came frequendy about die houfe to fell ribbands, beads, and other trinkets. During two or three months, he became perfectly acquainted witli all the principal f ervants, and having got ^a thorough knowledge of the houfe, he made Iiis addreffcs to the lady's waiting-woman, gave her many pretty prefents, told her that lie was the fon of a rich merchant in Siberia, but had fpent a fum of money fince his arrival in Mofcow, and therefore intreated her to let none in the houfe know his affairs nor his parentage. When he had obtained her con-lent to many him, he got her alfo perfuaded, tho* againdher mclination, not only to make
Li     \ *F>
a private elopement from her good lady, hut alfo to carry off her flrong box, in which there was not only a round fum of ready fpecie, but alio all the lady's jewels.   It was in the winter feaibn ; he had a fledge and a pair of good hories ready, and iuddenly drove her out of Mofcow to a pit, where they throw all the dead bodies of felons and liiicides, and fuch as have no relations ; there they ly and are buried by a bifliop once every year.   At their arrival, the villain ordered her to prepare for immediate death, telling her that this place was the burial houfe of felons, and, as he had brought her there, he was detenuined to put her to death.   A peafant, fome time before, going home drunk from Mofcow, and not being able to weather the cold, and an extraordinary drift of ihow, went under the cover of this pit, and fell afleep, but, by the noife of the threatenings of the villain, and the importunities of the poor girl, was not only wakened, but overheard dieir difcourfe.   He, both brave and refolute, ifliied out, maldng a terrible noife, and threatened the villain, who, frightened out of his wits, leapt into the fledge, and inftantly drove off, leaving the maid with her drunken, but generous deliverer. This incident was very lucky for them both, becaufe had it not happened, the maid would certainly have been murdered, and the poor man had very likely been frozen to death. When the girl had recovered the ufe of her reafon,
confined
T R A  V  E  L Si
(he informed the peafant of every thing (he had done, and all that flie knew of the villain* Upon tliis he congratulated her* but carried her,directly to the police, where they both made oath of what they knew: but as they them (elves were unknown, they were confined till next day, when a meflage was lent to the lady, acquainting her with what had happened. The good old lady ufed all her influence to preferve her fervant from the punifliment due, procured her a pardon from the Emprefs, took her home, and got her comfortably married*
The police however loft lib time in making proper fearch for the villain, and in a veiy few days got him,when, being convicted of his crime, he was broken on the wheel; and the lady got back almoft the whole value flie had loft. Long after this affair, die lady herielf happened to be a, patient of mine, and confirmed the foregoing account which I have given of it. From thefe two inftances then,the great ide of a good policy in a defpotic nation is obvious to every one;
CHAP, ti
Concerning the Policy of the Medicine Chancery and Councili
BEFORE  I proceed to profecute my Journal, it will not, I hope, be deemed D improper
improper or unplcafing, that I here give fome account of the medical department, ami of its powers and regulations, to which I belonged fifteen years.
The fupreme regulations of medical affairs were inft.ituted by Peter the Great, who, when in Holland, got acquainted with a Scotch Gentleman, Dr Erfkine.    Peter loved this phyiician, and prevailed upon him to go to Ruffia: He gave him great encouragment, he was declared to be the Emperor's principal ■ Phyiician, and Director-General of all Phy-ficians, Surgeons, Apothecaries and their dependents witliin that vafl empire, and Chancellor of a court, called the Medicine Chancery; where every tiling relating to that bufinefs, and all die branches of it are determined. Peter alfo, as I wras well informed, preflcd die Doctor to be one of his privy council; but of this honour he would never accept ; as he alledged, diat altho' the Emperor had no difficulty of getting him acknowlegcd as fuch by die whole empire, yet he was certain, fuch . a flep would not fail to procure him, or any other foreigner, many enemies : But it was believed, that notwidiflanding this, the Emperor veiy frequently confulted him.    It was Dr Erfkine who erected the Medicine Chancery, and planned out the fundamental regulations of it wliich are in force at this day. The Doctor was Prctident of diis Chancery, and appointed a Phyiician (two fecretaries and
many
many writers, eke.) as Vice Prefident ; whole bufinefs it is to go to the Chancery once or twice a day, and flay in it two hours at lean:, in the forenoon; and, if needful, as many m the afternoon; he receives all reports from all the provinces in Ruffia, fr om the armies, and fleet: He is obliged to acquaint the Prefident every morning and evening with whatever happens, and takes his directions, and ifllies out orders accordingly. There is one Chancery in St Petersburg, and one in Mofcow. The one is fubordinate to the other, as the court is at either of thefe places. The Chancery, upon any extraordinary affair, immediately conveens inch a number of phyficians and furgeons as the prefident fhall think proper, nor may any of them be abfent, except they are lick. On the principal chancery does every branch of the medical affair abfolutely depend; nor dares any one practife in Rtiflia,till he be examined and found qualified,, cither by the CIVcUicery or its deputies, and get a written teflinlonial of his qualifications. All phyficians muft fubmit to this regulation, which effectually prevents quackry of all kinds. Some few quacks however, there are, the* net in the imperial iervicc ; but if any thing curious, uncommon, or remarkable, happens in their practice, they muff immediately report the cafe to the Medicine chancery. The chancery buys *ip all drugs, and takes care that
every drug be good of its kind. Thefe are delivered over to the principal apothecaries, who muft account for every ounce. There are indeed fome private apothecaries ; but they are as much iubject to the inks of the chancery as thole employed by the empire.
Every army of 40,000 men are allowed two phyficians and a furgeon-general. Every regiment is allowed one furgeo.11 and a jnate : and every company is allowed twq young men, who can let blood, fpread an<| apply plaiftcrs, and do many other fmall tilings. The regimental furgeonsi muft be obedient to the directions, of the physicians and their gcncral-furgeon, either jointly or Jeparately, The apothecaries muft inftantly difpenfe what medicines the fiirgeons require for the ufe of the regiments, if attefted by the iiirgcon -general, or any of the phyficians. The general hofpital of the army muft be vi-fited by the phyficians and iurgeon-general, at leaft twice every week ; and ever)" regir mental-hofpital, as often as pofliblc, during the fiimmer. The furseons muft vifit all their lick twice eveiy day, and if any extraordinary cafe happens, they muft report it without lois of thne to the iiirgeon-general; and every regimental furgeon muft report every month the ftatc of the regiment, during the preceding month, to their furgeon-gencral. The furgeon-gcneral makes out a general report of the fick of the whole
army,
T R A Y E* L S.
*9
firmy, which, being iigned by one of the phyficians and him, is lent to the Medicine-^ chancery, by which means the Emprefs or cabinet, can every month, fee the Hate of the army, in refpecT of health and iicknefs. Except for crimes of the deepeft dye, no colo-r nel dare arreft or otherways moled their furgeons; becaufe they are accountable only to the medical department for their actions ; and if diey neglect their duty tliey are feverely punifhed,
In cafe of an accufation by a commander againft the furgeon, a memorial is made out, and lent to the furgeon-general. He is ob^ liged immediately to take cognizance of the crime : If it is of fiich a nature, that he t]iinks the fick are not to be longer trufted to the furgeon, lie appoints another, puts the furgeon under arrclt, and reports to the chancery : The chancery orders, with the approbation and confent of die war-oflice, a council of war to lit upon the accufed, con-? fifting of five officers, and two old furgeons: Whatever is done, is flgned and fealed up, and fent to the chancery, who have it in, their power to put the fentence hi execution, or elfe, (which frequently happens) to mode-* rHle the feverity of it^
C H A P«
CHAP. VI.
Concerning the Hofpitals in St Pctersbwgh.
PETER the Great erected two royal grand hofpitals in St Petcrfburg. A defcription of them will fuffice to make any perfon fenfi-ble of the nature of the fervice in every ho-fpital in Ruffia, as there is no difference in die regulations.    One is for the army, the other for die fleet.   They are joined together, compleating  three fides of a   veiy large fquare, In the middle of the fide facing the river Neva, is a fine church for the ufe of both holpitaLs ; the wards are veiy well contrived; the building is two ftories high, and covered galleries go quite round both hofpitals, ib as any perfon may walk without being ex* pofed to the injuries of the weather. At each corner of each hofpital is a noble theatre, and diflecling chamber.   I have known nine frelh bodies in it at once, belonging to the fea hofpital.   The theatre is large  enough to contain two or three hundred fpectators. Here are kept a very great number of curiofi-ties, and chirurgical dafes injected, or other-ways preferred.   It would be agreeable to the curious to have a hifloricaf catalogue and defcription of thefc curioiities ; fome of my preparations are thought worthy of a place there,   Centinels are placed fo as to fuffer
none
TRAVELS 31
jftone to go out or come in to the hofpital, except proper peribns. Several phyficians belong to them ; a iuperior furgeon, and -five ordinary furgeons, ten fub-iurgeons or mates, and twenty fludents to each. A pro-feffor of botany teaches the fhidents of both hofpitals. Each hofpital has a profeffor of medicine and furgery, and a profeffor of anatomy, and a limner is appointed to teach fludents to draw any part of the human body. The Profeffors of medicine, furgery, and anatomy, are obliged to teach and examine twice eveiy wreek in their feveral hofpitals ; but fo diat the fludents of both may attend each profeffor.
The profeffor of botany teaches every lawful day, during the fuinmer. If any very difficult chirurgical operation is to be per* formed, the profeffor of anatomy is operator, unlefs he appoints one whom he can trail: but both phyficians and furgeons fliould be prefent.
If there has been any difpute about a dif-eafe, of which a patient died, the body muff not be interred until the caufe of death is dil-covered by anatomical difquifition ; and the profefTor has a right to diflect a part of any dead body before burial: For the bodies of all malefactors, filicides, and all who die in jail be fore execution, are lent to thefe hofpitals. Every morning at fix o'clock, the bell warn* the furgeons to get ready : At ieven, it fig-
niiies-
nifics their immediate attendance in the ward, where thole who arc \voundcd,ulcerated, or have fractured bones', or dillocatcd joints, are kept, or mult make their repair from the other wards : hi an inffcmt all hands are at work, until ail die ordinary patient* arc dreffed.
Then l'ucceed confukatioiis about patients labouring under more troublelbme dileaics : Ordinarily, young furgeons give their opinions iirlt, and lb on till the eldell, joined with thole of the phyjjcia;i.s and operator. Every one has a right to plead : The greatcit number carry their dclign, ii" fupponrd by either a phyiician* or a furgeon of knov/n abilities. When the operation is performed,the caufcof the diicafe is always cUicovcrcd, if it be a number ; and when death happens, the eaule of it is likewile frequently developed j but no man is found fault with, tho* his opinion ihould not be juit ; but fliil it does him great honour who ibretold what happened*
I cannot help here relating a cafcj which happened whilft I attended (hat hofpital. At the exliibition of grand fire-works for the taking of Aibph from the Turks, the tail of a rocket fell upon the head, and fractured the fkull of a 1'ailor, who was immediately canned to the hofpital. Dr Mounfeyand I attended, hut could then neither i\>eak the language of die country, nor high Germain, and but with few who underflood Latin. The operator afked our opinion. We bodiu'.mkly told him, that not widv-
ftanding
ftandhig they could not dif cover any fracture by any means they had tried, and that altho' the /kuli was laid bare* by a large wound, hi wliich they could discover no fracture, we were yet of opinion there was a fracture near that place; and thought that die trepan fliould be applied without lols of time. Hie reft did not join with us ; but the profeffor faid that he fufpected what we advanced was but too true. A clay or two after that (for neither of us would take care of him, as our advice was rejected) Dr Mounfey and I, both then very young, obferved that the patient was veiy flu-pid, which daily encreafed, and that his eyes were much in flamed, and had not their faculties; that the flayer run conftantly from Ms mouth, and that he feemed quite infeniible of pain.
We, talking concerning him, and feeming to finiie, were obferved by the fuprcme furgeon, a proud man, and of no great learning, who defired Mr Hanhart, profeffor of anatomy, to alk of us " the caufe of our mirth ?" We were fimple enough to tell him, wliich was the caufe of great jealou-iy ever after ; and I doubt not of our being fo fpeedily ordered to the fervice of the navy.
A few days thereafter, the doctor and I returned to the hofpital. I went to the chamber of anatomy (having been appointed to adifl the profeffor to prepare leffons of anatomy fome time before  that) ac-
E cording
cording to cuftom : The door was made fall with a bit of twine lealed, wliich, in Ruffia, is reckoned more facred than even a lock. I, however, imagining it had been done by fome young men, thought nothing of it, (becaufe I had an undoubted right, by order of the Medicine-chancery ; nor could even the pro-.feflbr deprive one of this right, but by a counter-order from the chancery,) and therefore, with my knife, eafily made the door open ; and obferved a new body, fewed up hi a ma-treis, ready for burial.   I inftantly cut that open alfo, knew die face,and found that they had fawn die fkull tlirough, and not only found a great fracture, but many fmall ones; and, in place of the left lobe of the brain, that fpace was full of putrid matter, &c.    I inftantly acquainted Dr Mounfey ; and left the body, without pretending to conceal what we had been about.   Wliilfl we were talking of this affair, a young man, who fpoke Latin well, came and afked us, If we knew who had been in the anatomy-room ? I told liim all we had done ; and that I was ignorant the door had been made faft by order, or that a feal to a door, that properly belonged to me, could prevent my entrance, unlefs orders from the chanceiy were countermanded, of wliich I thought I ought previoufly to have been made acquainted,  and finally that I fliould petition the Chancery properly concerning it.   When he had reported what was
faid
faid to the firft furgeon, a council was called, and I was afterwards affured, that this affair had put them in no fmall fright. Left I had put my threats in execution, the profeffor invited Dr Mounfey and me to fupper, and enjoined us fecrecy. He told us that he could not have his will for the firft furgeon, who had great friends at court, and was alfo protected by the archiator; and diat fuch pro^ tection was the principal caufe of Iris almoft always liaving had a majority of votes againll liim. Tho' this affair has but a very bad appearance, yet many excellent operations were performed, and many notable cures perfected during my flay in this hofpital.
From this ward, the furgeons proceed with the phyficians through all the remaining wards: The furgeons mates write down in a day-book what the phyficians order for every perfon ; to which book their names and difeafes are prefixed. After all the patients have been vi-fited, the furgeons mates go with then- fludents to the apothecary, where they attend till the medicines are prepared ; carry them to die refpective wards, and exhibit diem as was directed : One of the furgeons in ordinary watches by turns (this is called dejour) in the hofpital eveiy day ; nor is it lawful for him, who is on watch, to go out of the hofpital, unlets he get another liirgeon to fup-ply his place ; and they muft both go to the furgeon in chief, and acquaint liim with their
agreement
agreement. The reft of the furgeons may attend their private patients, but muft return at 7 o'clock p. m. The mates, as they are not allowed to practife, nor the fludents, can go no where from the hofpital, w it ho tit leave from the principal furgeon.
Reports of the number of lick entered, cured, dead, and remaining, with the names of the different difeafes, are regularly lent to the Chancery every week. There are no want of all forts of attendants. The belt of food js plentifully allowed them by the phyficians order, as alfo drinks and decoctions of all kinds ; nor are the mofl expenfiVe wines ipa-red, when neceflary. If a complaint is made either of the phyficians, furgeons, or their mates, for non-attendance one day, they are mulcted in one month's falary ; and, on thole who bear no rank, corporal punifhment is inflicted.
By evciy hofpital is appointed an officer whole bufinefs it is to provide all ibits of provisions, and keep a j uft account of the fame: A number of writers are appointed to ailift him. He has alfo the charge of the foldiers who keep watch about the hofpital, but can punifh none without liberty from the principal furgeon. The prelidcnts of the admiralty and war-office either go diemielvcs, or depute o-thers to fee that every thing is in good order; and the commanders in chief pf lefs hoipitals, at greater diftance from court, attended by a
filial
fifcal, enquire every week, If the fick have good wholefome proviiions, and well-dreffed, according to the phyiicians orders ? Though the phyiicians, furgeons, <&c. give due at-r tendance, yet if any complaint is made, wliich I have known to happen, ftrict hiquiiition will follow; but if the complaint is groundlefs, the patient who made it is carefully cured, and, when difmiffed, is feverely wliipped before the whole command.
If a delirious man is difcontented, no notice is taken of his complaints. It is a regulation tlirough all Ruflia, that every furgeon, whether in the fervice or not, is obliged in difficult cafes to call for the advice of fome regular phyiician or fenior furgeon, whether the cafe is internal, or purely chirurgical ; nor dare any furgeon perform an operation on a-ny perfon, without previoufly having had the advice and concurrence of fuch, if poffible to be got. If the patient fliould die, or have reafon to complain, the prelumptuous furgeon would not efcape punifhmeiit. Where diere is difficulty or danger, even phyiicians are o-bliged to call the advice of others, if to be had; and if they neglect to do fo, and death fliould follow, diey will not efcape puiiifhment. I knew two phyiicians who,for fuch neglect and, malpractice, were inflantly expelled the fervice. No apodiecary dare give medicines without orders from a phyfician or furgeon. At every grand apothecary's fhop a good furgeon
is '
is appointed with a fufficient falary to attend daily two hours forenoon and afternoon, to give advice to the poor; and if liich are not able to pay for the medicines, the apothecary notwitliftanding difpenfeth diem, and placeth fuch to the aid of the Emprels.   If any per-ibn, not having a licence from the Medicine Chancery, fliould preliime to give medicines to patients, the penalty is no lefs than to liif- . fer the knute, to be lent to the galleys during pleafure, and confutation of all he has, one half for the Emprefs, the other to the informer.   If any attendant or fervant fhould give any medicines, meats or drink, to a lick perfon, not authorifed by the phyfician, he fliall not, when difcovered, efcape a fevere whip* ping.
CHAP. VII.
Concerning military regulations.
COn c ern i ng military affairs, I am afraid, I can fay but little to the f atisfaclion 'of the gentlemen of that honourable profeffion. However, the following is a fair account of the military regulations hi the Ruffian empire. In general, eveiy perfon of the fmalleft diflinclion in the imperial fervice hath fome rank: Thus, for inflance, a fhip builder is a Colonel, and gets the honour of that character paid liim in
all
all places.   A Generalifllmo is the liighefl officer in die army; Field-marfhall, General Lieutenant-general,   Major-general, Brigadier, and fo on, form the feveral gradations, and end in the enfign.    The inferior ought to report daily to his fuperior concerning the trull, repofed in him; and his reports mull be true, elfe he {lands a chance of being reduced by a court-martial.   Every inferior muil readily obey the orders he gets from his fuperior, no matter how dangerous; and if an inferior is ordered on irregular duty, he dares not dif* obey the orders, but has it hi his power to complain of liis commander; and if it mould be found that he has acted contrary to the regulations, unlefs the inferior pardon liim before the coiut-martial is ended, the fuperior runs a great rifque of being rendered incapable, at leall for a time, during which he has neitlier rank nor Hilary.   If a iiiperior flrikes an inferior, which fometimes liappens hi drunken fquabbles, when the complaint is made, fuppofe by an enfign, the fuperior officer is obliged (let his rank be what it will) to appear before the whole command of wliich he is fuperior, and there on liis knees beg pardon of die gentleman, receive the fame blows from the provoll, and pay three years falary to liim whom he had injured.
If a fuperior infults an inferior, by names or language beneath a gentleman to give or take, he will be obliged before the command,
on
on liis knees to beg pardon, acknowledge his fault, and pay three years falary to the inferior he had infulted.
HE highcft officer in the fleet is Lord
high Admiral, and after him are the Admiral, Vice-admiral, Reer-admiral, Commodore, Captain, and lb on, down to the midfhip-man, who ranks with a lieutenant in the army.
71ie highcft officers in the fleet and army are equal, and take their precedency only from the dates of their commiflions. A commodore is brigadier; a captain in the navy is colonel *' a lieutenant is primier major; and the regulations by way of command is much the lame as in the anny.
If a fuperior officer, whether in the fleet, army, artillery, or engineer, arrives in any gar-rifoned city, the commander of wliich is an inferior, he immediately makes his repair to liim, reports the ftatc of die garrifon, demands his written orders, parole, 6*c. and thus religns the command, while his fuperior refides in the place. Whenever a general officer enters a fortified place, a number of cannon are clifcharged, to denote the quality
chap. VIII.
Differences of ranks in the fleet and army.
lity of tlie ftranger, that every one may take notice of, and properly refpect him.
The late Emprefs Elizabeth, however, cau-fed the officers, who had that honour done them, immediately pay die expence of die la-lute ; wrhich is not great, in regard they have all the materials, and make as good powder as any in Europe.
CHAP. IX.
TIjc different degrees of honour in the army*.
THE army has different degrees of precedency. The guards are the moft honourable, the cuiralfiers are next, the dragoons fucceed, the infantry are the laft of regulars, but one regiment demands the poll of honour according to the date of their creation* The irregular- light horfe called huzzars are next in place : The CofTack granadier regiments preceded by the Coflack horfe, are the laft, except the Barbarian Calmuicks. Over and above thef I are the trains of artillery, a moft glorious body of men. The cannon and mortars are all of brals. The engineers are likewife very honourably refpecTed; their officers are equal In rank with thole of the fleet. In St Peterf burg is a large palace, and many buildings belonging to it, as alfo a large fine garden : it formerly belonged to Prince
F Mentzicoff.
Mentzicoff. This man was, I think, dilgraccd in the Emprefs Ann's reign, wlien every tiling he had was confifcated for the Emprcfs's life. Tliis great palace was allotted for the education of poor gentlemen's children in the military way, and the cliildren of foreigners who had ferved the empire, and is called the Cadets Core.   In my time, it was laid to give good lodging to fifteen hundred, with their officers; now, I am told, the number is two thoufand. A general officer, with a good falary and lodging, is commander in cliicf.   They are divided into companies ; every company has a captain, lieutenant and eniign, with rank equal to the guards.   They are all lodged hi tlais houfe, and there is but one grand entry into it.   Cliildren are received at the. age of feven years.   Here they are taught all the European languages, writing, aritlmietic, ma-thematicks, and every branch of natural phi-lofbphy, painting, dancing, and fencing. One hundred mount guard daily, and ferve in eveiy fhape as conunon foldiers.  Thole who arc not on guard are Undying.   The mailers are not allowed to punifh diem, but only to mark down their faults : They are not to be whipped with a birch, or any other common rod of correction, becaufe they are gentlemen ; but have a piece of fine fleel made in form of a fword, very thin, long, but not fliarp. For flight crimes they are confined in the guard-houie, for greater they mult ride the wooden
mare,
mare; for heinous crimes they are flogged with this fword. If they are not to be kept in order, they are feverely whipped with rods, the Cadets uniform torn from them, they forfeit the title of gentlemen, and are re ferved to ferve as common foldiers hi the army. If they are of age, difcreet and diligent, they are advanced firft to corporal, then captain at arms, laftly to ferjeants of their own corps. When they have ferved honourably till they are feventeen or eighteen, they are difmiffed to the army, as captains, lieutenants, or en-figns. None dare abfent themlelves without leave afked and given.
They bear a mortal hatred to the guards, and the guards to them, the effects whereof are fometimes very terrible, and numbers are killed on both fides The guards are all accoutered with broad fwords; the cadets with fmall tucks. If the guard-fbl-dier gets one blow, the cadet is no more; but veiy frequently the cadet flmns the blow, and before the guard-foldier can be ready to give another, the cadet runs him through. In order as much as poflible to prevent fuch ex-cefTcs, the cadets were not allowed by the em-prefs Elizabeth to go to the fouth fide of the Neva with their 1 words, nor were the guards allowed to go to their fide armed ; and this prohibition has, I am told, had a very good effect.
chap, ■
CHAP. X.
Regulations for widoivs and orphans in the Ruffian fervice and religion.
THE male children of Rulfian officers have each of themT after their father's death, one fourth of liis annual falary, till they are ten years of age ; the girls have the fame till they are fifteen; at which time it is thought the boys may be provided for in the Cadets core, and the girls are then thought to be fit for marriage. The widows, if young, have one year's falary, if old, they have one fourth, fo long as they live, paid them annually.
Soldiers boys, as fooii as they are born, enter into fmall pay till they are five years of age, when diey nnut go to a military fchool: They have alio a man's proyifion; but the girls have no allowance. In every garrifbned town there is kept a military fchool. ITie boys have all of them one uniform. A captain prefides to keep order: they alfo keep guard upon the fchool, and are taught to read, write, and keep accompts ; but if any of them rather chufe to beat the drum, or play upon any martial mu-fical inflrument, they are encouraged ; but the dolts, who difcover no genius, are kept dole to the exercife of arms. If an officer of rank approaches towards the fchool, the whole
guard
travels,
guard turns out to pay dieir reipecls with their wooden guns, niftruments of mufic, and drums, according to their ranks.
In Ruilia eveiy religion is tolerated, providing ftrangers do not diflurb die eftablifhed religion, wliich is of the Greek communion. When Peter tfie Great firft introduced foreigners into his fervice, many fquabbles happened, and frequently murders; whereupon that wife prince ordered, under a moft fevere penalty, that none of the different religions fliould difagree with, or ijifult one another on diat fcore ; wliich order hath had its full effect, by preventing cmimllon, and promoting government.
It cannot be expected I can fay much about the religion of the Ruifians, as it formed but a fmall part of my ftudy. They worfliip every day, and die clergy are feemingly fincere and devout; but this is all farce and affectation, as their manners are motley, and their morality is deficient. This remark, however, ^vill, I am afraid, apply, more or lefs, to all the preachers and profcffors in the world, namely, that dieir practice is not analagous to then* precepts.
chap.
CHAP. XI.
Concerning the Ruffian religion, their churches, &c.
THE Greeks have many holy-days. I imagine diey have at leaf! a faint for every day in the year ; but they at the fame time have many and very fevere long falls, which, one with another, engrofs nearly one half of the year: they have alio auricular con-felfions, invoke, and pray to faints.
The walls of their churches are hung round with pictures of faints, and ibme of them extremely rich. They make ufe of fumigations and holy water, extreme unction, pallports for the dead, and prayers after death to relieve the dead out of purgatory. They have many other ceremonies, which I do not remember ; but the burial of Chrift, and the fanctifying of the water, are the moll remarkable. They baptize by three feveral immer-lions, and making the fign of the crofs.
I was once at the celebration of the burial of Clirifl crucified, and, as I rightly remember, it was performed in the following manner in the metropolitan church in Aftrachan, From the altar, which is always on the eafl end, next to the fancium fanclorum, and to which no layman may approach, a large flage was erected two foot above the floor, covered with carpets.
On
On the weft end of tliis ftage was a chair facing the altar, and a table before it, covered with clean linen, and on it a large filver bafon of water, and a comb. On each fide of the ftage were placed fix chairs. After a long ferviee, the archbifhop appeared in an ordinary fattin toga, performed fome part of duty on the altar, and bleffed the people tliree times : at each time he made the fign of the crofs with two candlefticks, in one of which were three wax candles, in the other, two.
I was told the three wax candles were an emblem of the Ever-bleffed Trinity; but I have forgotten the meaning of the two. After this foleum act was over, he difappeared, and palled into the fanBum fanctorum. Twelve bi-ihops, or firft dignitaries in the diocefe, walked gravely, in fuperb facerdotals, from the altar, fix on each fide of it, and feated them-felves on chairs: They reprefented the twelve apoftles. When they were placed, the archbifhop again appeared, followed by two deacons and other church-officers, with fingers, chanting in the moft charming manner. He, with an awful air and a folemn gait, wralked along, and feated liimfelf on the weft end of the ftage. The fingers flopped, and a deacon, with profound reverence, prefented to liim a comb, with which he combed liis head and beard, then waflied his face and hands, and girded liimfelf widi a linen cloth, die deacon carrying a bowl of water after liim, wherewith
he
he warned one foot of each of the twelve fc& fliopsi   One of diem who rcprefentcd St Pe-* ter challenged liim for wafliing his feet : The dilcourle betwixt them was what happened betwixt Chrift and Peter, when the Saviour of mankind waflied his minifters feet.   Then he Was dreffed by the deacons with the richeft robes I ever law, with a crown of gold upon, his head, thick befet with pearls, diamonds, rubies, and other precious ftones. The twelve bifhops were alfo dreffed in extremely rich cloaths, and many pearls upon them ; they had alfo every one a crown, but inferior to that of the archbilhop.  Alter tliis was ended, they all returned to the ftuiclum fanftorum, when one of the priefts appeared, and told the audience that Chrift was dead, whereon they departed feemingly in great forrow. Tliis was acted on Friday.  The whole citizens appeared little on the ftreets on Saturday7 and many of them eat notliing from die time of Friday's ceremony till Sunday morning ; but the cooks were every where fet to work on Saturday afternoon, to prepare the moft delicious meals of all kinds againft Sunday. I was told, but did not fee it, that a coflin was really buried on Friday, and was expoled empty in die church on Sunday morning. On Sunday morning, alfoon as the clock had ftruck twelve, the bells tolled for fervice : However, I did not chtife to rife, but was told, that, after a piece of fervice was performed, die arch-
bifliop
bifliop appeared, and, after blefung die people, allured them that Clirift was rifen from the dead. Upon this a rocket, placed at the church-door, was played off as a fignal, wliich was" immediately fucceeded by a round of all the cannon hi die citadel and the city, wliich never fails to give notice to all the abfent inhabitants, who are not dead or deaf, of die final end of this affair; and then men and women congratulate one another upon this happy occafion, offering an egg, and a friendly kifs.
I wras told,thefe laft ceremonies are reckoned ib eflential,and are fb ft rictly adhered to,that if a common foldier were to meet the Em-prefs, and offer an egg, declaring his belief, he would have die honour of an imperial kifs. In fhort, after the laft fervice is over, every one reforts to liis home, and eats and drinks as much as he is able: For eight days the jubilee is univerfal ; with fome it lafts longer, which, hi refpecT of my intereft, I found convenient, as furfeits feldom go off widiout the doctor's aid.
The faft, which is very ftrict, continues fe-ven weeks : Tliis is fucceeded by a voracious eating, and plenty of the ftrongeft liquor, which never fails to brhig many to then* beds, and not a few to their graves.
G CHAP.
CHAP. XII.
ji defcription of the chrificning of the water.
THE following is a fliort account of the manner of chriftcning the water, as I law it in St Peterlburgh and other places. A fquare hole is dug dirough the ice about fix feet one fide, befide wliich are laid a great number of dales after the manner of a floor, fenced around with pales to keep off the mob, with a canopy over it. The fervice being fi-nifhed, the clergy ifliie from the principal church, and form a proccffion, following one another according to their dignity, and walking four or five in a line, to the number of ibme hundreds. A great flag of the crofs, a large lanthoni, and a large picture of our Saviour, or fome faint, are carried aniongft them. They proceed in tliis order, followed by the principal, and common people, tinging hymns all die way to the river. The priefts enter the fquare with but a few of the principal people, and there perform other parts of the ceremony. 'VMien the water is faid to be fufficiendy fancTified, a fignal is given to 1200 guards, who furround the whole in tliree lines, and immediately begin a running fire, wliich is tlirice repeated : then the great guns in the citadel begin, and alfo fire about
Travels. $x.
300 cannon thrice. Thus ends this ceremony, wliich is performed- much after the fame manner through all Ruffia. Many fick fana-ticks go to be immerfed in tliis holy water, hi order to be relieved from their complaints; and indeed many of them meet with then: defire, but not in the way they expected ; that is to fay, they are killed by the exceflive coldnefs of the weather, the ceremony being performed in the middle of whiter. Many ignorant fools carry their infants, fome of them new born, to be immerfed : They are delivered to the priefls, who duck them thrice over head and ears ; fome happen to be ftifled, fome have dropped from the pricfVs hands, and been carried under ice by the ftream : When this happens, it is faid that God took them to himlelf; but many more die of the cold.
CHAP. XIII.
Of the different degrees and cufioms of the clergy.
HERE are many different degrees of the JL clergy in Ruffia : They formerly had a patriarch ; but Peter the Great abolifhed that dignity, as an office of too great power for a fubject; in place of which he conflitutcd a fynod at St Peterfburgh, to be near the court. The fynod determines all ccclefiaflical affairs; but if it is thought to be of great confequence,
or
52      VOYAGES   a n *>
or if any new regulation is to be made, their opinions are firlt tranfmitted to the patriarch of Conftantinoplc, and from him to the patriarch of Jerufalem, to get their alfent and approbation : When this is obtained, it is a fixed law tlirough the whole Greek church.
They have archbilhops, bilhops, protopa-pas, and papas, deacons, and monks; I'm not certain but there are more degrees. The archbifhops, biftiops, or archimandrites arc always elected from the monks, who take the vow of celibacy : The protopapas and papas, as they are allowed to many only one wife, never can expect to rife higher in the church. If any of the clergy are found incontinent, they are put to death,   The protopapas and papas, or ordinary pricfts, may marry one woman ; but if fhe dies, and he is afraid he cannot live without a woman, he muft give up the church, and take to any other bulinefs ; then he may many as other laymen do. None in the Greek church are allowed to marry beyond three times, and ever after, let liis con-ftitution be what it will, he can have no wife; but the keeping of a miftrefs is not thought fo deadly a fin here as clfewhere, if they only take care of their progeny.   Adultery is reckoned a very great crime ; but the puniihment, if only papa knows it, is many proftrations to fome flint daily, for a long time : But if a hufband can prove his wife guilty with another
ther man, flie is divorced, and the adulterer punifhed.
The punifhment for fornication is fmall; die priefl appoints lb many times invoking God's forgivenefs through die day, accompanied with proftrations. And the law orders, if a child happens to be born, only that the man buy for liis miftrefs a milk cow. All the time I was in Ruffia, I never heard of a child-murder but one. It is to be feared, that our abfurd cuftom in Scotland of obliging offenders againft chaftity to perform public penance, the veiy dregs of popery, is the chief, if not the only caufe of infant-murder ; for our females have as fine fenfations, and as feeling an humanity as any in the uni-verfe; but die dread of public fhame and difgrace drives fome of them to defpera-tion, and makes them do with their hands what they abhor hi dieir hearts. Fornication, no doubt, is an offence againft order, but child-murder is fo fliocking an affair, and is fo frequent in Scotland, diat it calls aloud for means more powerful and more effectual than any that have been hitherto employed to prevent it: And were the clergy to part with, or knock down their ffool of repentance, it woidd, I am confident, five nineteen of twenty cliildren, who now fuller as a facrifice to the terrors of the mother's fhame.
Humanity will forgive tliis difagrccahle di-greflion, from wliich I return to my ftory.
There
There are many veiy beautiful monafteries in Ruifia, full of prielts and monks: An arch-bifhop or archimandrite generally prelidcs in them. They are not only extremely rich in jewels, filver, and gold, but have annexed to them, for their fupport, many large territories: I obferved, however, not without concern, that the peafants belonging to the church were kept in greater flavcry and poverty than thole belonging to die mofl profligate gentlemen. The only reafon I can give for it is tliis, that the clergy, generally lpeaking, are derived from the dregs of tlie people, and have not had fo liberal an education as the gentlemen, nor fuch noble fentiments of humanity inftil-led into then* early years ; hence that almolt total want of it, when they rife to dignity and renown.
The gentlemen are very different now from what they were before: They are all of them employed fome way or other in the imperial fervice; the old ones arc dead, and, fince the Great Peter's time, there are very few of them who have not made the torn* of Europe. • The greateft care is taken of their education; They are not priefl-ridden now, as was formerly the cafe; and were any of them to ule his peafants as the prielts do theirs, he would not only be hilfcd by the re It, but no man of either honour or judgment would regard him.
The preient Emprefs liath, I am told, relieved countrymen belonging to the church from
fuch
fuch flavery. She has wifely conferred proper falaries upon them, which makes the hearts of thoufancb leap for joy. It was a hold ftroke ! but it feems, hitherto at leaf!:, to liave been done with great judgment. The defign was good and god-like, and one fifth of the whole empire have felt its glorious effects, for I am convinced, that a number of people not inferior to that proportion were formerly fubject to the facerdotal jurifdicYion.
CHAP. XIV.
Of the Academy, Admiralty ,Cafl!e, and Foundery*
THERE is an academy eftablifhed at St. Peterfburgh, by Peter the Great. This academy has a fufficient number of profef-ibrs of all arts and fciences. The Great Peter was at much pains to give encouragement to die learned of all countries to come there. He endowed them liberally with royal falaries, and other emoluments ; but I'm lorry to fay, that before I left Ruffia, fome were dead, others had retired to their native countries difiatil1 fied, and the few who remained were much difpleafed at being neglected, and having an ignorant perfon placed at their head, as prefident ; who, by liis great power, and protection from court t made die Emprcfs believe that fne had fome of her natives qualified to
become
become profeflbrs. Tlie foreign profeflbrs, who were moflly Germans, could do no more than make their diflrcfs known to their friends.
The building is a noble large pile of two ftories high, with a beautiful cupola in the middle, and an obfervatory. In the middle, below the cupola, is a fquare fpace about thirty foot long and thirty broad, without flooring, but a large gallery is built round it, one for each ftory, fo diat one can fee from the pavement of the houlc to the top of the cupola. In each of dicle galleries are kept all manner of natural and artificial curiofities, as alfo a good library.
In one of the galleries in a cafe, is die fkin of a Frenchman, tanned and fluffed: This lias been the talleft man I ever* faw. In another cafe was his fkeleton, and a pair of breeches made of his wife's fkin, alfo drcfled; the leather was like to buff.
On the bottom, or pavement> Hands the fkin of an Englifli chefnut horfe, fluffed, f addled and bridled, andbcfide it the fkeleton. Peter the Great ufed to ride tliis horfe. Amongfl the curiofities are very many abortions, and great variety of monftroiis births, as alfo liuyfch's complcat collection. Here I faw the head of the unfortunate Mils Hamilton, a Swed-ifh lady, who loft: it for havnig murdered her child, unlawfully begotten; and this is the only murder of that kind I ever heard of in Ruflia*
Tliis
This lady was maid of honour to the Emprefs Cadiarine. It is laid Peter went and faw her executed: He wept much, but could not pre-,vail with liimfelf to pardon her, for fear, as is faid, that God would charge him with the innocent blood (lie had fhed. He caufed her head to be capped, and injected. The forehead is a Imofl compleat; the face is die beau-thullefl my eyes ever beheld ; the dura mater and brain are all preferved in their natural fi-tuation: This is kept in fpirits, in a large chryflal veflcL
I law three great chambers; in one of them were all manner of earths, foflils, Hones, ores, and natural metals, and minerals.; in the o-ther, all forts of f hells, modes, corals, <&c. and in the third fat in an elbow-chair, in waxwork, as big as the life,the Great Peter, drefled hi a blue coat and waiit-coat, and breeches, white {lockings, his legs acrofs, uncovered, having a head of fhort black hair, with an hanger by his fide. About him hi the room were all the fine mechanical and mathematical inflmments he ufed to take delight in, and many pieces of work which he made without the help of others.
In another part of the houfe I was fhown a very large globe ; I forget whether it was celeflial or tcrreflrial. It opened on one fide, into which three or four people went and fat upon benches round a table. Tliis was thought a veiy great curiofity. . This edifice
H was
was burnt clown in the year 1745 or 46 ; but molt of the books, papers, and curiolities in it were faved, and it was again rebuilt.
The Admiralty is on the fouth tide of the river, oppofite the Academy : It is almoft a fquare ; one of the fides facing the river is fortified only with cbevaux defrize; the other three fides are furrounded by a high rampart of earth, upon a wall of ftone eight or ten feet high,above the water of a very deep and broad foflee ; the rampart is flanked with good baftions, and the whole well ftored with many brafs camion. There are diree entries into the admiralty over draw-bridges; on each fide is one. Within this fortification are noble buildings, containing offices for every thing belonging to the royal navy. Many fhips, floops, and boats are built here. I faw the Royal Anne launched,a fliip which earned 120 pieces of brafs cannon.Thereisatower,and on the top ot it an high fpear, covered with copper, double gilt, with a fhip on the top of all, of the fame metal, and alfo double gilt.
On the north fide of the river, further to the eaft than the admiralty, is the ca-ftle, built upon an ifland. It has but two entries over drawbridges. A veiy large and deep ditch runs from the Neva quite round, till it again rejoins the Neva. I believe it is as ftrong as is pofiible for the belt engineers to make it. The fortification is all of ftone; the walls are very high, and defended
by
TRAVELS J9
by ftrong baftions, mounted with the be I brafs cannon. However, like die Tower of London, it is for little ufe, odicr than that of a ftate-prifon. I have no notion it can in any fliape protect St Peterfburgh, tho* I am poiitive it is capable, in a fliort time, to lay the whole city in allies. Witliin this cattle are many large magazines, all of them bombproof, and many neceflary buildhigs, bar* racks, and prifons. In the middle of it is a very beautiful church, with a fet of mufic* bells : On the head of the belfiy is a liigh fpear like diat in the admiralty, terminating at the top with a crofs riclily gilt. The great Peter lies interred in this church, and I believe all the royal family from his time. A centincl Hands day and night at the place of interment. Here is one very large ivory branch, fit to hold i oo candles, the handy work of Peter the Great.
Further eaft, on the other fide of the Neva, oppofite the royal hofpitals, formerly taken notice of, is the foundcry, a very noble building, with a fpear topped with a burning bomb, all double gilt. In this foundery are eaft the belt cannon, mortars, and bombs in the world.
On the weft end of St Peterfburgh, is a wharf for building fliips of fmall burthen, and macliines called camels ; they arc ufed to carry great fliips over the bar, for Cron-ftad.   They are hollow boxes, and fo con-
ftruded
ftructed, diat, when full ofwater, one of them brought to each fide of the fhip is funk as low as to receive betwixt them the keel and bottom of the fhip: Then they are locked together, and, when well fccured, the water is tlirown out by a great number of pumps. In proportion as the water is pumped out, ib does the lliip locked in them rife ; for when they have die whole weight of the (hip to fiipport, they do not draw 4 foot water, and the bar does not exceed 6 or 7 foot.    When the apparatus is adjlifted, and there is but little wind, the fhip is towed over the bar.    I went once on board a 70 gun fhip that was juft got over the bar. When the wind role and blew hard, I obferved that the feamen were very much alarmed, for fear of their anchors not holding ; but the fhip was very faft in the camels, and the motion of both was fcarcely perceptible.
On the weft end of Vafilie Oftrof, or the weftermofl ifland belonging to St Petersburgh, Peter die Great built a fine well fortified haven for liis galleys. I belonged to this port about 6 months : There are faid to be contained in it 200 galleys : A few arc lent to fea every liunmer, hi order chiefly to keep the men hi practice. A great officer, called general of the galleys, is commander in cliief. No perfon is allowed to enter this fortification, unlels he is well known. It is about an Englifh mile to the weft of St Petersburgh
burgh, and from it you have a fine profpecT: of the gulf of Finland.
CHAP. XV.
Of the exchange and markets*
ON the weft end of the fame ifland is the cuftom-houfe, and the exchange, where, as in London, the merchants meet. The exchange is nothing elfe than a veiy great timber ftage, built one half of it on that branch of the Neva which wafheth the eaft fide of the ifland. It is about 300 paces long, and proportionally broad. Near to it is a moft noble magazine for preferving merchandize ; it is a fquare built with brick, and has only one great port or entry. An hundred foldiers keep watch here day and night, that no harm may happen to the merchants goods. A merchant may have a very large room for paying ten fliillings per month. The fide of the ftage next the river is well lined with fhips of a fmaller burthen, during the fummer feafon, for the readier difpatch of bufinefs.
Near the fouthermoft part of the city is the market-place, where all forts of goods, both home and foreign, are kept to be fold. It is a very large fquare with four entries; on each lide whereof is a range of ill ops, both within, and without.   There are covered galleries
built
built quite round the fquare, both on the out and intide, that people may be defended from rain. A ftrangcr need not, as in other places, hunt through tliis great city for what he wants to buy: A pleafant walk in thefe galleries will give him an opportunity of feeing many of the bell people in St Peterfburgh, and all ions of commodities in the world. The younger merchants and their fervants guard it during the night, and in it great order and decency are always obferved.
CHAP. XVI.
A general defcription of the City, &c.
THE river Neva runs out of a large lake called Ladoga, about twenty miles eaft from St Peterfburgh. In die mouth of the river is fituated diat ftrong fort called Schluf-felhurg, which Peter die Great took from the Swedes. Prince Michael Golitzin took this city by ftorm. He landed his foldiers on the ifland in boats and canoes; many were killed by the artillery ; the Prince Marfliall was al-moft killed with a ftone thrown down from the walls. Peter at a diftance faw the great lofs of liis men; and, of fix couriers which he fent to raile the fiege, only one arrived fafe. The prince however would not defift nil he liad taken the place ; at wliich time he made
the
the Emperor fenfible, that,if he had retreated* he would undoubtedly have loft all Ms men. This prince was the greateft general the Ruffians had, during the Swedifh war. The lake is about 250 miles long, and very near as broad. Much merchandize was formerly fent from Ruftia and all the bordering countries about the Ladoga to the different ports in die gulf of Finland, and many veflels were annually loft ; to prevent which, this great and magnanimous monarch (when he had taken SclilulFelburg, wliich fignifies the key city, becaufe it was a key eidier into Ruftia or Sweden), caufed cut a large canal betwixt the rivers Volcholf and Neva, with twenty-feven locks or fluices, through which veflels may be conveyed quite fafe for the fmall expence of a ruble betwixt thefc two rivers. Tliis canal is on the weft fide of the Ladoga.
The topography of St Peterfburgh is out of my plan; wherefore I (hall leave it to others who have more leifure, after having made die following remarks. The guards are reckoned to be about i 2 or 13,000; 15,000 field troops are alfo conftantly kept in the neighbouring villages, called the Petersburgh corps. Every ftreet, lane, or avenue, have many great gates wiiich are fhut in the night time : At each gate is a watchman, as in London, with a pole and a great rattle, (having convenient watch-houfes through the whole city)like thofe with which the fanners here fright away the
fowls
fowls from their grain. Thefe Watch-men arcap-pointed to prevent robberies and thefts, and to give warning if fire or any tiling ciie larming fliould happen during the lilent vt at-ches of the night. No perlbn is allowed, either in machines, on horle back, or on foot,to pafs the flreets without a lanthorn. If offenders are obferved, they are ieized, and lent to the police.
The north of Peterfburgh is built, as was faid, upon if lands, and has the advantage of water-carriage by die branches of the beautiful Neva, than wiiich no chryflal is more pervious or trani"parent.   The fouth part, which is properly called Peterfburgh, is alfo well fupplied with all coiivenieiicies by many canals, but cliiefiy two ku*ge ones, bodi deep and broad, the fides of wliich are faced with hewn flones.    Thefe canals are almoft femi circles.   They take their rife out of the Neva on the eaft, and, running through die city,  difembogue dicmf elves into the Neva again on the welt.   Where the ftrccts (wliich are all broad, well paved, and formed in ftralght lines,where poflible), cut thefe canals, there are built large draw-bridges ; and that the common people may have no pretext for leaving naftinefs in any part of the flreets, convenient places are built upon the banks of the river and its canals: Bel ides, all houfes wliich are built two flcries high, and in ftraight Hues, are well fupplied widi eveiy
conveniency
Conveniency to keep the city fweet and clean. Any perfon wanting to have his court or part of his property improved, may demand from the flaves-prifon as many haves as are fufll-cicnt. The number is immediately fent under a guard of foldiers. When the bufinefs is compleated, it is cuftomary to give the fol-diers a fmall acknowledgment for their care; but little or nothing to the flaves. Thefe flaves are delinquents who deferve death ; but .not having committed murder, they are condemned to flavery for life; and others, for fmaller crimes, only for a limited time. Hack* neys, porters, watermen, and all forts of pu-Hick fervants, have a number on their flioul-ders. They dare not impofe on theftranger left they be detected. They are all fubjecl: to the policy ; and if they commit any roguery, it is not furficient that they rcftore what they have taken, and pay all cxpenccs ; but they will be feverely wliipped on the bare back. If they are not able to reftore what they have embezzelcd, then they are not only whipped, but turned over to the galleys; where they muft remain till the perfon injured is fa* tisfied.
I C II A P.
66        V O.Y AGES and
C II A P. XVII.
.'ji continuation of the fame, and of Pcterbojf.
THe Emprcfs has a large play-houfc in the city, with German and French adors y alio a let of Italian lingers. No perlbn pays for going to either play or concert; but none are allowed to enter, except iiich as have tickets by authority. The doors are guarded ; and if any fliould get hi without proper right, they would be feverely punifhed. No irregularity can happen here, as the royal family are frequently preient ; and it would be efteemed moll criminal and inexcuiable to commit any fuch folly in the prefence of the Monarch of Ruffia.
Weft from St Peterfburgh, about 20 miles, is that beautiful country-feat of the Emprefs, called Peterhoff, after Peter the Great, who formed it. Here, on the top of a rifing ■ground, is a palace, and a great number of neceflary houfes for attendants. The palace is built by itfelf, eaft and weft : The front is fouth : It is fituated in the middle of a large garden ; and in the centre of it, on the fouth of die palace, is a very large pond of water, clear as chryftal. When the Emprcfs re-fides here, the guards are encamped in the garden to the fouth : Their tents and regularity make a veiy fine appearance, The garden
den on the north, is betwixt the palace and die gulf of Finland: It contains many acres of ground, and has in it many pleaiure-houies, cafcades, jetts, and wraterworks. A large cafcadc 30 or 40 feet broad, runs from under the pavement of the palace, and, in its egrefs, falls down large Heps made of hewn ftone, Hoping about 20 or 30 feet: Then it flies over the entiy of a large grotto, 1 6 or 18 feet perpendicular, upon a pavement of hewn ftone, and, at laft, lofes itielf in a very large circular bafon, of at leaft 40 feet in diameter, ever full, but never overflowing: From die middle of which, iprings up a fplendid fpout or jett of water, which riles to a great height; and is, I was told, larger than the famous one in France. Out of the water, much to my agreeable furprife, arofe a dog and three ducks, made of copper or iron, and in appearance all alive : The ducks fluster through the water quacking, the dog follows after them barking. There is, in a fiib-terraneous place, a charming chime of chry-ftal bells, which play by water. The grotto, of which I fpoke, covered before with die cafcade, has two entries, one at each fide of it. The entries are guarded by flatties, which, when you are in, prevent any getting out, till the keeper, by turning a handle, puts a flop to them. Thefe ftatues evacuate fo much water, by vomiting and fhooting out of ftone piftols and guns, that, the keeper laid, it
woul<4
68       V O Y A G E S and
would founder any man. The bottom is of channel, iutcrfpericd wiiha veiy great number of finall pipes, imperceptible to the unwary ftranger. The keeper placed us in, certain niches, wbetfe we could fee eveiy thing, and not a drop of water touch us. He then turned a handle, upon which thefe pipes played with very great force, fo that the perpendicular jetts role near as high as the roof. The roof and walls were all covered with rock, and different forts of mofs. It would take up too much time to dcfcribe the various pleafure-houfes, and vegetables in this beautiful garden ; wherefore I (hall only add, that, belides the curiof tics before mentioned, there is a beautiful gallery full of the fineft china in the world : At one end of which is a fmalf but commodious room,widi a bed in it, whither the Emprcls ibmctimes re* tires to repoie herielf,
CHAP. XVIII,
Of Ranyboam, Ruffian laws, nobility and gentry^
WEST on the gulf of Finland, about four miles from Pctcrhoff, frauds the palace of Ranyboam, ftraight foutii from Cronftadt. The palace was in my time but very indifferent ; but it had a pleafant pro-fpeef from the gulf, and a fine quay for fmall
veflels
Travels. 69
veflels and boats ; but as I law nothing there worth notice, I fhall lay no more about it.
It is well known that the monarch is abfo-lute over the lives and fortunes of her fubjects, of whatever condition they are, tho' lew examples can be given, at lealt in our days, of the perverfion or abufe of that unlimited pow-, er. Individuals may fuffer innocently ; but that happens ieldom, and commonly it proceeds from private piques, mifreprefented by fome of die monarch's favourites : But generally, either in the prefent or preceeding reign, the offenders are punifhed moft ievere-ly ; and the innocent, if alive, are not only re-inltated, but flune with a diftinguiflied lultre. If they be dead, then their children, or neareft relations, fucceed to all their wealth, and often are favourites : This is extremely natural, as will be elucidated by feveral in-flances in the following remarks,
Ancient families are veiy much refpecled ; and whoever deferves well, will be ftill the more refpected on that account, even by the Emprefs herfelf. Except titles, I know real* ly no natural difference betwixt their nobility and gentiy, as they have equal powers ; and all honourable diltinctions arife from their different perfonal ranks in the Empire. The noblemen and gentlemen are lords over their peafants ; and may at pleafure punifh them with whip and confifeation, without giving any reafon to any perlbn : But they
jo      VOYAGES   a if d
have no power over tlieir lives ; and therefore if, by excels of punifhment, any of them {hould happen to die, their lords muft even iatisiy juftice, by iiibmitting to be hanged. The peafants, as hath been laid, are ablbtute flaves to their lords ; and yet, the' it may leein furpriiing, they are fatisficd with their flavery.   They commonly have good warm houfes to live in i They have as much land as they can labour, and as much pafturagc as they can (lore with cattle, without paying a farthing for it.    They are obliged to work four days in fix for their lords, and have two days in the week for themfelves : But their lords often reap where they do not low ; for when any of them appear to thrive and pro-fper, and to rife above his neighbour, his lord and mailer foon reduces him to equality, by levying a loan from him, never to be paid. Their lords can tranlplant them when and where they pleafe, or left them, either with or without their lands, to any perfon : And frequently it happens that they buy thcmlclvcs ; that is, they get a good friend, or merchant, to buy them from then* lord at a certain price, wliich the boor refunds, and then enters into the community of merchants.   They take all care to promote matrimony early. They cannot force marriage by law, but if two be recommended, one to the other, by their lords or their factors, there is feldom any objection made ; nor is diis to be wondered at, as the
perfon,
TRAVELS, 71;
perfon, who declined the match, would after* wards live a moft uneafy life.
I have known young women of 20 years of age married to a hoy of nine or ten : The reafon given for this is, that the boy being a poor orphan, the girl is able, by her work, to maintain him till he is of years ; and if they had any cattle when married, they would probably increafe to a good ftock by the time he is major.   If the woman proves with child, before it is thought natural for the hufband to be the father of it,ftill,as flie has a hufband, no notice is taken of it; but probably the prieft may give her fome private penance. The ceremony of marriage and confummation is not fo ridiculous as it formerly was faid to have been.   The bride does not prefent her bridegroom with the whip.    The bride and bridegroom are married in prefence of their friends and relations at church ; thereafter they return home and make merry with their guefts ; and, at the ufiial time of night, go to bed, when their friends leave them till next day.   Li fhort every thing is carried on with as great decorum and modefty as with us. And I never heard that the men treated their wives but with the greateft tendernefs and affection.   One great occafion why they are young married, is, that their children may be able, if neceflary, to fupport them in their old age.   I am of opinion, there cannot be produced many examples in RtuTia, that cliildren
dren ever did or durft fuffer their parents to\ pine in want, whilft they thcmfclves lived in plenty. One remarkable inllance, however, of the want of filial affection,I Avail here relate: A peafant, a common lbldier in the guards, behaved liimfelf lb well in many actions, lbme of them under the eye of the Great Peter, diat, notwithstanding his native oblcurity, and an entire ignorance of his parents,he was made captain of the guards, a rank equal to a lieutenant colonel in the field regiments. His father, a peaf ant, on the borders of Siberia, and in great want, got a paflport for St Peterfburgh ; and hoping to be kept by his fon in eafy circumfiances, fold off his poor pittance ; and after a fatiguing journey, at lafh arrived in that city.   He foon learned where his fon lived, and afked the centinel at the gate, to get fome perfon to acquaint him, (who, at that time, had fome company at his houfe,) that his father longed to fee him.   The fbldiers, gathered together, Tcof-fed and derided the poor old man ; for the captain had given liimfelf out for a gentleman by birth.    The noife made in the court, foon brought out the fervants, and at laft the captain and his company, to fee what was the matter.   The captain ordered his old father to be beaten with rods, and turned out to the ftreet.   This did not fail to aflemble a multitude of people, amongft whom there happened to be a writer, who. carried the old
man
nian to a houfe, and, for a fmall confidera-tion, drew out a petition, humbly reprefen-ting his cafe, and advifed him to wait near die palace next day, at a certain place by wliich the Emperor ufiially palfed, and then to hold up his petition to his Majefty. Next morning, as the Emperor palfed by in a two wheeled-chaife, attended only by a footman, and obferving the old man, he Hopped, took Ms petition, read it inflantly/ and commanded him to be on the parade next morning, at a certain hour, telling liim that the foldiers on duty fliould have orders not to molefl him. Every thing happened as the Emperor had ordered ; and at the old man prefenting him-felf to the Emperor, he ordered the guards to form a circle, and commanded the captain's prefence. He then afked the captain, Whether he was not born in fuch a village ; and whether of fuch parentage? And commanded that on pain of death he fhould tell him the truth, for he was determined to know his birth. The captain, conlidering that the Emperor would certainly dilcover it, and diat the confequence of diffembling and putting liim to fo much trouble might not only be fatal, but probably provoke him to inflict a painful and ignominious death, fell at his feet, confeffed the whole, and afked pardon. Upon this, that wife and wonderful Prince called for his dubine, (this was an oak flick kept hi a fcarlet cloatli, and always carried
K by
by a fcrvant) with which he ufed inftantly to punifh flight offences wjdi liis own liand. This dubine he delivered into die old man's hand, and commanded liim to ufe it as a father ought to do to difobedient and ungrateful cliildren.    The old man pauled, and told die Emperor he could not ftrike liis Ion while he had on him die uniform of the guards. Tliis was agreeable to the Emperor, who ordered the captain to put off thele incumbrances, when the father challifed liis unnatural fon widi fuch wholefome fevcrity, that the Emperor at laft defired liim to lpare his captain, and ordered one half of liis falary to be applied to the maintenance of the old man, and, with a firm tone, told the by-ftanders that what they had juft now feen done was agreeable to die laws of God and the Empire, and that he was determined that thefe laws fhould, without regard to diftinc-tion of office, or dignity of defcent, be put in execution againft every one who durft tranlgrefs them.   At the fame time, he acknowledged that the captain was a brave officer, and that if he continued to behave well, he would endeavour to forget his unnatural crime, and advance him in the army according to the regulations, and liis merit.
CHAP.
C HA P. XIX.
I'lftitution of Companies of Merchants, &c.
PETER inftituted, in eveiy one of his cides, companies of merchants, fubject only to burgomafters, bailies, or aldermen and their counfellors ; but thefe people, formerly peafants, and railed from that rank to polls of power and honour, could not contain themfelves witliin the bounds of moderation ; wherefore tliis regulation was difcon-tinued either in Peter's reign, or in that of fome of liis fucceffors : But it was afterwards re-eftablifhed, as will appear in the courfe of tliis work.
From what hath been faid, it is eafy to fee a line lyftem of order and regularity in die Ruffian governments, but, being abfo-lute, the people are ibmetimes fubject to terrible oppreflions, which, however, cannot be charged on die general plan, or the wife regulations of tlie great fatlier of tliis vaft empire, but on weak princes, and wicked miiiiitcrs, who commonly pervert power, raiflead the prince, and opprefs the people.
The Ruffians, formerly lavage, but now civilized, are a brave, and virtuous people, then* manners mild, and their judges juft ; nor are there in the world better officers and bolder men. Merit in Ruffia is the fure road to preferment, and none but men are
admitted
admitted into ports of honour and consideration : Boys, or milk fops, however nobly born, have no chance in the army or navy, nor can family-influence prefer them;
In Rulfia nothing pleafed me more than then* eafy and elegant civility and difcretion to ftrangers, a virtue this lor which all ranks are remarkable. In Ruliia too, acceis to juftice is exceeding eaiy and inexpensive, and it but rarely happens that the injured are not repaired.
Rudenefs is fcarce known in Ruftia, nor is this to be wondered at, as the Great Peter in one of his regulations exprefsly enjoins due .deference to be paid to all degrees of men ; hence every perfon lives in peace, in quiet and iecurity.
Britons juftly boaft of the Britilh conftitu-tion, but it is a grofs abufe of it to confider that of any other nation with contempt; a practice, however, which but too often occurs. The author,| partial to his country, joins in general in its juft pi*aife, but the gentle reader will, he humbly hopes, have him forgiven if he fliould here regret a grievous defect in our police, which delerves con-i fideration.
I had a younger brother whom I brought up under my own eye, and who ferved in all the late wars in America and the Weft Indies, and bravely fell in driving off the enemy from a hill which covered the Moro
caftle,
cattle, which he effected with a fmall number of his brave countrymen in the Royal. His colonel, a general officer, wrote a polite letter, now in my poftellion, condoling with his aged parents, and has it in thefe memorable words : " I heartily condole with Lieutenant Cook's aged parents, they have had a great lols in their fon, but the Royal has alfo received a very remarkable lofs of a brave gallant officer."
It was expected, and one fhould think, not without reafon, that Lieutenant Cook's heirs would have received fome fmall fhare, or pittance of the booty got at the Havan-nah; but his friends were difappointed, though it is certain, he loft liis fife not by accident, or by acting improperly, but hi bravely and exactly obeying the orders of his fuperiors. Indeed, if he had furvived die taking of that city, his proportion of the booty would not have been a premium, as every one knows that the diftribution of it was re-markbly partial and unequal, repugnant to everv juft and proper regulation. Gentlemen, who are intrufted with a command, deferve, no doubt, the firft difthiction in dignity and emolument ; but it will be hard to find a police or political arithmetic, fufficient to warrant a fcheme of divifion, by which one or two got all, and 20,000 men got in a manner, nothing. A police fo partial and improper, fhould, with fubmilfion, be amended;
for
for however officers, unwilling to diflurb the public peace, may find it convenient to connive at fuch an oeconomy, it-has a natural tendency to rcprefs ardour,and extinguifli emulation ; and therefore though gentlemen will e-ver do their duty, yet great efforts cannot be expected, nor glorious exploits be performed,
CHAP. XX.
What happened at ?ctcrjl:ojfy and elfenshcrc.
HAVING made fome general remarks upon the government, religion, and policy of Ruflia,I fhall relate particulars as they occur in the courle of my travels. Next morning after I arrived hi St Peterfburgh, I -.vent to the Medicine Chancery with my landlord, and produced the letter from Cronftadt to the Archiator. The fecretary received it, but told me tliat the Archiator was at Peter-hoff, and was not expected till the Court returned, which was very uncertain: But ad-, vifed me to go and wait on him there.
Accordingly, having hired horfes, I next day let out with a Ruffian, with whom I could have no converfation. When we arrived, I difmiffed my Ruilian, and walked towards the palace into the garden on the fouth, where I faw the guards encamped on the banks of a beautiful canal, with their officers
ilcers fuperb tents next the palace. I fpoke to many people, but I was underflood by none. J walked till I was quite tired and Well appetiled, when I left this pleafant garden, not knowing where to go, nor to whom to apply. At laft, it was my good fortune to {peak to a German, a butler, very well dreffed. He told me that he had been in England, afked me When I arrived? with many other queftions ; and veiy civilly de-fired I would go to liis lodgings and accept of a collation. I was no way averfe to that, and indeed he gave me plenty of meats, exceedingly well dreffed, and as much Burgundy as I cared for, and rather more. He told me that he had no acquaintance of the Arcliiator, but that a furgeon to her Maje-fty, a countryman of mine, would be at Pe-terflioff next day, and that I fhould be very welcome to a bed in his lodgings, as I would be veiy ill accommodated in the neighbouring village.
He favoured me with the knowledge of many things, and exprefled his furprize that I had walked in the garden covered, without being affronted. He allured me that none were allowed to pafs by the Emprefs's windows, but with their hats under their arms, and therefore imagined that the Emprels had probably feen me, and given charge not to molefl me: Probably this was true, for I had obferved many chevaliers in their orders, and
others
others walking as he def bribed them, but I looked upon them as fine gentlemen of rank and fortune jufl amufing themlclves.
For all his kindncfs I returned him my unfeigned thanks, and begged him to accept of fome money for my good - entertain* ment. At this he fmiling laid, that he fold nothing; and that none who had the honour to lerve the Emprefs durlt take any thing lor* any little civility they might have in their power to (hew to ftrangers.
I then told him that I wanted to go for Cronfladt, and that I would return next morning if* I could get a boat. He immediately went with me through the north garden to a key opening into the frith, and got me a place in a ten oared barge, in company with two gentlemen, with whom he lpoke.
We immediately put off, and loon reached our port: The failors rowed extremely well; I underflood they belonged to Admiral Gordon. I attempted to fpeak with the gentlemen, but we could not underftand one another, as they underflood neither Latin nor Englifli. They were, however, extremely polite, offering me a piece of fiiggared mufk-melon, very delicious, and alfo a fhare of their wine.
Next morning early, I hired a boat and went for Ranyboam: That palace is four or five miles fouth from Cronfladt, a moft a-greeable fituation.   From the windows, one
has
TRAVELS 81
has a view of Cronftadt city, with all the ihipping, and a veiy extenfive flieet of water in the gulf of Finland. From tliis I walked to Peterflioff being only three or four miles diftant. Peter the Great took much delight in Ranybcam, and, if he had lived longer,would have made it more beautiful than even Peterflioff. It was in Ranyboam, Peter the third was feized by his barbarous and traiterous fubjects.
CHAP. XXL
A Continuation of what happened at Peterfljojf.
AT my arrival I went to Mr Lewis Calder-wood's lodgings, one of die houfehold furgeons who had come from St Peterfburgh to change with another furgeon, a German called Menzies. After I had acquainted him with my bufinefs, we breakfafted together, and he immediately introduced me to die Archiator, oneDr Fiflier a Livonian. It was eafy to lee that he aflumed great ftate, and Mr Caldcrwood advifed me to give him the title of Excellence, which I did not forget. He fpoke in Lathi very elegantly, and after having afked me a great number of queftions, he advifed me to teach furgery, telling me that though my education that way might be Veiy good, yet he could not think my expe-
L perience
perience could be great, confidering my youth; and in Ihort that he would grant me a good falary and horfe, fervants, and firewood.
I returned him my molt refpecffill acknowledgments for the care he expreffed forme, and candidly confeffed that though my experience could not be called extenlive, I had yet made as good uie of my time as was in my power, and that I was ready to perform any piece of furgery, wliich he fliould appoint.   I tofci him, that a long and lingering difeafe had reduced me to what he faw, and wliich might caufe him think me younger than I really was.   But I allured him that though I had come to Ruffia to have the honour to ferve the Emprefs, and was ready to go any where, yet .1 was determined never to commence fchoolmafter, for two principal reafons; the firft was that a fedentary life would never give me the fmalleft chance of recovering my loft health; and the next was, that I had a natural averfion from that way of life, and never could bring myfelf to fubmit to the drudgery of it.
At this he fmilcd, fpoke fomewhat to Mr Calderwood in the German language, and faid to me that he would immediately order my examination, and that when he fhould arrive in St Peterfburgh, which would be in a few days, we fliould talk more about it. We then retired; I dined with Mefirs Calderwood
wood and Menzies, and returned the fame day to St Peterfburgh with Mr Menzies, who, on the road favoured me with many a fine advice how I fliould behave.
He told me, under lecrecy, never to en gage but by contract, nor to fign any papers till fome of my countrymen had explained their contents. He faid that people fpoke but little there, and that a -word to the wife was fufficient. In two or three days thereafter I was brought to my examination before nine gentlemen, but only two of them could ipeak Lathi; however one of them interpreted to the reft, and from them to mc. Having fi-niflied it, they told me that they had little to fay againft my qualifications but that as I feemed very young they could not think my experience could be great. They examined me on anatomy, furgery, medicine and pharmacy. They propofed fundry difeafes and caufed me write fuch medicines, <&y. as I thought fit for fuch complaints, and very politely difmifled me after they had kept me about tliree hours: However they gave me a few glafles of wine, and allowed, nay entreated me to fit down. My landlord, who was very obliging, told me that the examiners were veiy well pleafed with my anfwers.
At the Archiator's arrival, I was lent for, he told me that it would be veiy agreeable to him if I would engage only for two or diree years to teach furgery,   Tliis I abfolutely refilled.
fufed, and infilled on ferving one year at lead in St Peterfbiirgh,either in the fleet or in the hofpitals; he faid that could not be granted, becaufe he' had already engaged five more than the ordinary number in the fleet, that the hofpitals were over complement, but that, rather than I fliould return, he would fend me to a good garrifon, or to one of the armies then acting againll the Turks, wliich I declined, took my leave, and refolvcd to return home.
CHAP. XXII.
The Author engages h in the Ruffian Service*
IIMMEDIATELY applied to Mr Rown-dox the Britifh Refident for a paflport, who fent a memorial by me to the college of foreign affairs. They told me to make my appearance to-morrow, and every day after that, I got the fame anfwer, and this continued till I went to Mr Bell of Antermony, told him diat the Britifh fliipping were all going home, and I mull be left, if I could not get home directly, in which cafe I fliould be obliged to fubmit to any agreement they might think proper. That truly worthy gentleman went with me; and expoflulatcd with them fo effectually, that they told hint they were forbid granting a paflport by a
memorial
memorial from the Medicine Chancery, Upon this, Mr Bell procured a politive meiiage from Mr Rowndox to the chancery, in wliich, as I was informed, amongft other things, he faid that if the Chancery offered to flop my returning home, on the morrow he was to wait upon the Emprefs, and would not fail to lay the affair before her Majefly. Tliis had the effect; the Chancery was fo uneafy at fuch a refolute declaration, that they lent for me by the time I got to my lodging, and granted my demands the 30 th day of Sep" tember.
The Archiator told me that he would have a care of me, and be as a parent, providing I did not neglect my bufinefs, but acted according to the regulations. I bowed before him, but humbly obferved that it could not be expected I could, as if I was infpired, know the regulations ; becaufe I was not only a flranger, but could neither read nor fpeak then- language: At this he laughed, and faid all that he meant by regulations at prefent, was only to attend the hofpital, where I was going to be fettled, twice every day; and in difficult cafes to afk the advice of the phyficians and furgeons.
This I ackowledged was mofl reafonable, and I allured him that I would pledge my life for the faithful performance of it.
He faid he had lent orders to the fupreme furgeon in the fea-hofpital to caufe a lodging
to
to be got ready for me, that it would be right I fliould go to him in a day or two, hut that he had ordered to give me leave for one month to get all my affairs in order ; and thus tliis affair ended to my fatisfaclion.
CHAP. XXIII.
The Author employed in the General Hofpital. jij>■ ■• i>^.! vfri G3 "JO"" JL 'JliilJ       "y o ^fu "(Oi
IWAITED upon the fuprcmc furgeon of die fea-hofpital Mr Engbrodt a Swedifh prifoner, in company with Mr Selkirk furgeon to the guards. Mr Engbrodt, received me very politely, and told us that he had got orders about me, he faid that I might board myfelf at the gardener's, where all the gentlemen batchelors in both hofpitals were provided with dinner and fuppcr, and that I fhould always be welcome to liis table, when it was convenient for me. He advifed me to be fure to make my repair to the hofpital precifely at the end of the month; becaufe, whatever inclination he might have to befriend me, it would not be in his power ; becaufe he was obliged to make out regular reports and fend them to the Chanceiy once, at leafl, every week; that though the Archiator might overlook it, yet it could add nothing to my character to begin my fen7 ice with neglect of duty.    I anfwered him, that
TRAVELS., 87
I did not intend to take half the time die Ar-cliiator had been gracioufly pleafed to grant me, and therefore defired he would give orders to have my lodgings foon put in order. I then took my leave, and in eight or ten days thereafter, entered Upon my employ. Jr juftice to the gentlemen in both hofpitals, I mult here confefs that from them I received many and fignal civilities.
I was alfo allowed a young gentleman, Mr Rolen, who fpoke Latin well, to go with me as my interpreter when I viiited the fick. I clofely attended the anatomical preparations, and, when the work aniongft my patients was over, I fcarcely was ever out of the dhTect-ing chamber. I had not followed bufinefs above a fortnight when Mr Hanhafl profeffor of anatomy, a Swifs, who had ever fliewed me great friendfhip, and one of the belt ana-tomifts in Europe, came to my chamber, and begged of me as a mighty favour, that I would prepare the leffon for next day, in regard he had fome bufinefs of much importance to traiifacT. that day in the city.
I anfwered that few tilings could give me greater pleafiire than to ferve him, from whom I had received fo many marks of friendfhip; that I was truly proud of his thinking me fit for fuch employment; and that it would be moft agreeable to me, if he would frequently honour me with it. He gave me the leffon, wliich I got ready long
before
before night.   Next day I was prcfent when die cadaver was brought into the theatre. Mr Hanhafl viewed my work very carefully,-*' and, as I was told by Mr Rofen, faid a great deal in my favour.   At the end of his dif-courfe he allied me, If I was willing to prepare the leflbns with or without his afliflancc as oc-cafion might require ? I anfwered, notliiug could give me greater pleafure : Whereupon he read an order to the gentlemen in the hofpital, letting them know that I was difcharg-ed from all bufinefs in the hoipital, except when I chufed to help, and that I was appointed by the Medicine Chancery folely to prepare the leflbns: But I never neglected vifiting the lick, though I was appointed to no particular ward, by tliis means I had it in my option to vifit all the wards, without being a Have to any.   Soon after this, the Archiator arrived to vifit the hofpitals, he fent for me, and laid diat he was well plcafed with me, and would not forget to do for me better, I returned him thanks for what he had done, and retired.   When he was gone, the profeflbr told me that the Archiator's fon was to lludy anatomy in our hofpital, advifed me to make fome preparations for him, and when he fhould be in the differing chamber that I fhould (hew him any part he defired to be informed of.   I took tliis hi very good part, and immediately fct to work, injected and prepared an eye with all its mufcles, arteries,
tcrics, veins and nerves, alfo a heart, and varnilhed them i I got the iinall bones of the car joined together in their natural fituation within the cavity, careftuly fawn afunder, and at different times I prefented him with thefe factitious affairs.
He frequently invited me to vifit liim, but. I always excufed myfelf. Thus I lived much to my own iatisfaction till March 15th 1737, when I very unexpectedly got orders to re-, pair to the galley-haven and attend the fick m that place; becaufe one furgeon was dead, and the other fo far gone in a coniumption that he could do but little fervice* Mr Han-hart expreffed rather a greater diflatisfaction than I did: He told me that he intended to go to Leyden for one year, and take out liis degrees as phyiician: For which he undoubtedly was well qualified. That he had told the Archiator of tliis long ago, aiid that he had recommended me to fupply his place: With all which, the Archiator feemed very well pleafed. He faid, that he did not altogether defpair but this might happen; becaufe he Was certain the Chancery fcarcely knew what to do for qualified furgeons, as there was a daily lofs of them in the armies. He faid, that he hoped that was the Archiator's intention, becaufe I was lent to no diftance, and to be in a fixed place.
With regret I left this hofpital, and the fame day made my appearance at the galley-
M haven
haven to the redding commander in chief, who was a Greek, and, what is far better, a good man. He was about 60 years of age: I was much taken widi him, and he daily invited me to his houie. He was veiy fobcr and difcreet, had only one daughter, a pretty lady about 17, and flie was as complaifant as her father, who doated on her. I was lb well received by this good old man that I had very near forgot the hofpital, and indeed I lived in good friendfhip with all the inferior officers. I was appointed a boat with four oars to ufe as I plealed. Many officers and our general lived in the city, but it was my duty to go at leaf! once a week to vifit our fick in the general fea-hofpital: For although there was a fmall hofpital hi the galley-haven, yet, by the regulations, I was ordered to lend all patients, whole difeafes would take a long time to cure to St Peterfburgh. Our hofpital was confidered only as a place prepared for fudden ailments and accidents.
Next day I waited upon our general, an old-man, and a Rids, whole name was Ivan Golovine. He received me very well. His adjutant defired I would take a glafs of wine with him in his apartment, to which I a-greed, and he told me that our commander was a man of no merit, and remarkably ob-ftinatc.
He
He faid diat he was indeed of a good family, and that was his only qualification; for there was not a lingle action that he ever did, or indeed could do, for the good of the Empire, and he was belides altogether illiterate.
This adjutant was a German, and a good fcholar. He told me that Peter the Great f ent for our general when he was young, and having been told of liis character, deiireci him to live in the palace, or ferve in his armies or fleet. The anfwer he gave to the Emperor was, diat he wiflied he would know him no better than the lace Emperor liis father knew his Golovine's father. At tliis time it pleafed the Emperor, and he wanted fuch people about him who without fear or flattery, would tell him what they knew.
Peter the Great appointed him an officer in the galleys, which he never commanded in perfon, and foon afterwards advanced liim to die rank of general, but kept liim conftantly about his perfon. He faid, at Ka-ritzin when the Emperor was going to profe-cute his war in Perfia, this general was miffing two or three days, nor could die Emperor get notice where he was ; but as he was much given to drink, fuppofed he might be in fome common houie. The Emperor to find out where he was, and alfo to puniih his pride, caufed the drums to beat through the city, and at certain places, caufed the
crier
crier to.make known to the inhabitants, that the general of die galleys was loft; and therefore ordered that whoever knew of him, Ihoukl immediately make difcoveiy, without lofs of time, offering a reward to the difcoverer of three farthings, but threatening punifliment to any who fhould dare to conceal liim.
This had the effect: It roufed liim: He in-ftantly defcited liis drunken companions, went to the Emperor, and expoftulated with him about affronting in fo public a manner an officer of his rank, threatening at the fame time that he would be revenged.
Tliis pleafed the Emperor, for he kept him by way of a buffoon, and confequcnt-ly allowed him all liberty of fpeech. The Emperor ufed to take an hour's fleep after dinner which is the cuftom hi thefe countries : lie loved the fleet as is well known to excels.
A fleet of fmall velfels at that time lay at Tzaritz and, while he was (lecp'ng in one of them, Golovine ordered all the bells in the city to be rung, and at the lame time to make an alarm with all the drums ; which in Ruflia, is a certain fign of fbmething ex-i inordinary.
The Emperor difturbed out of liis deep, made enquiry at the officers on board concerning the caufe of this alarm. They all law there was no lire in the city, but could not conceive what was the matter; wherefore the Emperor went to the commandant
mandant to enquire.   He knew as little of the Caufe as liis Majefty, but faid that the general of the galleys had given liich orders: All fearch was made for liim, but he was not to be found.
At laft Golovine, who perfectly knew the Emperor's way, ftayeel fo long till he thought the Emperor would be pleafed to fee him a-gain, he was only hid in an old calk which was in the houfe where the Emperor reiided when in town. He told die Emperor that was the revenge he took for the affront he had given him.
The Emperor's anger being over, Golovine got off, but was ferioufly advifed never more to adventure on fuch daring actions, left he might fuffer the lofs of his head. Many fuch ftories were told of him, but tliis is fufficient to fliew that the man was admired only for liis folly and impertinence.
The Emprcfs Anne took pleafure in plaguing him, and the more rude he exprefTed liimfelf to her, flie liked him the better, however the greateft lord durft not affront him ; for, though he could do little or no good, he was yet able to do, and had clone, much harm!
The galley-haven is truly a pleafant for-trefs: It is fituated on the weft end of Vaiilie Oftroff on the eaft end of the gulph of Finland, and communicates with St Pcterfbursrh with a profpective cut through the woods. I was told there were 200 galleys kept here,
and
and I believe there are not many fewer, I liave frequently feen them, though I never numbered them. They are drawn out of the water and kept under fhades in the winter, but they are eafily launched, when needful. The garrifon keeps a good look-out, and will permit none to enter widiout orders from die main-guard, though men of diftinc-don, and acquainted widi all the officers.
CHAP, XXIV.
The Author receives orders to march. Great conflagrations in St Petersburgh, ami the eriminals puniflied.
ONE day Mr Farcharfon Profeffor of A-ftronomy came from the Academy to drink tea with me, but, although all the younger officers had ftudied under him, and particularly the gentlemen at that time on guard, whom he well knew, he could not get admittance nil die commander gave orders. Indeed die Captain ran to the gate, and conducted his old regent with great deference to my houfe. When feated, the good old profeffor told him, diat he was glad to have lived fo long as to fee many gentlemen in die fleet, formerly his pupils, of diitinguifhed learning, who could prelcribe laws to liim. Compliments on both lides were not wanting.   I Ipent my time in tliis pleafant place,
and
mid amongft agreeable company, only till the beginning of Auguft, when one morning I was fnrprized with an order from the Medicine Chancery for me to attend the admiralty, and get ready to march to a village on the river Don called Cotcholoff, diftant about 30 or 40 miles from Afoph, which now was in poffefiion of the Ruffian army.
I acknowledge it furprifed me not a little, yet after reflection I found that I had no rea-lon to complain, lince I had lived in St Peterfburgh one year. But, before I enter upon my travels, I again muft fay I never had fpent a year fo pleafantly as at this place, nor did I ever meet with any thing incommodious during that whole time, nor any thing which could give uneafinels to any of my agreeable neighbours, except two veiy terrible conflagrations in the city of St Peterfburgh.
The firft happened in May or June, and burnt down many fine palaces, belides her Majefty's great dilpenfary, and the Medicine Chancery in that ftreet called the Milion. The other burnt down fome hundreds of houfes, inoftly indeed of timber, in that part of the city called the Little Morfkoy.
Here I was prefent, and happened to ftand by the fide of a canal near a great brick houfe belonging to a prince, all inflames. The roof was fallen in, and few of the byftanders were taking any nodce of it, when it fiu!-
denly
denly blew up with fuch a (liock as made the earth tremble where we Itcxxh
The day was ferene, little wind, but very hot, but in an inftant we were all covered with fo thick a fmoke, that the fun could not be feen for fome time: In a minute however, after the blaft, or lefs time, many chairs, tables, and other pieces of furniture, fome of them half* burnt, fell from the air into the canal adjoining, without hurting any one perfon. It was indeed fortunate that none of them fell on the other lide of the canal where were very large and coftly magazines of hemp, ropes, cables, pitch, tar, belonging to the Emprefs, for had the fire reached that ma* gazine, ail the Englifh merchants houfes and the Admiralty would have been deftroyed.
It was found out that the fire was let to the-houfes in different flreets at once, fo that the poor inhabitants could fcarccly lave any thing, and before any help could come, the whole Morfkoy was in flames. Three incendiaries were taken, two men and a woman, thefe I faw executed a few days thereafter, in the ruins of the Morfkoy. The men were each chained to the top of a large maft fixed in the ground ; they flood upon fmall fcaf-folds and many thoufand billets of wood were built from the ground, fo as to form a pyramid round each maft. Thefe pyramids were fo high as to reach witliin two or three fathoms of the litdc ftages on wliich the men
flood
TRAVELS; 97
ftood in dieir fhirts, and dieir-drawers.- They were condemned in this manner to be burnt to powder : But before the pyramids were fet on fire, the woman was brought betwixt thefe mafts, and a declaration of their villa-ny, and the order for their execution, read. The men called out loudly, that, though they were guilty, yet the woman was innocent, however the woman's head was chopped ofL For they never expofe the perfons of women, either by hanging or burning, let their crime be what it will. Pollibly had the Emprefs Anne been at Peterfburgh, the woman would have been pardoned; it was faid however, that the proof was very clear, and that die woman knew, that the villains were determined to commit this horrid crime, fome days before it happened.
No fooner was the woman's head chopped off, than a link was put to the wooden pyramids, and as the timber was very dry, it formed in an inftant a very terrible fire : The men would loon have died had not the wind frequently blown the flames from them; how-. ever, diey both expired in lefs than three quarters of an hour, in great torment.
An accident happened at this execution, which amufed many people. Immediately after the men were dead, a young airy writer, veiy neatly dreffed, was running through the ruins, in order to fee the execu-
N tion:
tion: The whole ground was covcrd with the? charcoal from the late conflagration, fo that none were fafe to go any where but on the paved ftreets : As the Ruffians are obliged to keep their ftreets and houfes fweet and clean: Every houfe has conveniences for that purpofe, and the poor writer ,gazing at the criminals, as he haftened towards the place of execution, plumped into one of diefe above the middle. Many of the guards, and others, not fatisfied with fcoffing and laughing at the unfortunate writer, threw into the filth pieces of burnt wood, bricks and ftones, with a view to fplafh liim all over. Such treatment fliarpened the ingenuity of the diftrefled writer, and fired liis refentment to the high-eft pitch.
As they were very near him, he threw plenty of the fetid fluff about liim, bedaubed many, and forced them to retreat to a greater diftance, by "which means he got out without . great interruption,'but his rage was fo great, thatinftead of going home, he run amongft the guards, who he imagined were the caufe of the ludricous condition he was expofed to. Many of them he bedaubed, well knowing they would not efcape punifhment for having their cloaths fo damaged: Indeed I believe the Ruffian guards were never put to fuch a (hamcful flight.
CHAP.
TRAVELS,
CHAP. XXV.
Anecdotes during the Author's flay in St Petersburgh : Coins, Weights and Meafures*
MANY very entertaining and magnificent fireworks were exhibited on the river Neva, and grand illuminations for the fuccefs of the Ruffian arms againft the Turks, fo expenfive and grand that many people fkilled in fuch works, faid that they did not believe the like had ever been feen in any part of Europe: The rockets were terrible. The charge of each large one was faid to weigh an extraordinary weight, and when they had rifen to an immenfe height in the air, they burfl with an explofion equal to that of a large cannon, and exhibited many fire balls, of various colours, falling down to the earth: A great variety of wheels, and many other things whole names I am unacquainted with, were played off, fo that in midnight, one might have feen as clearly as in mid-day. The grand illuminations were placed on a large timber building of two flories high, and a great length, creeled on the north iide of the river oppofite the winter palace. The lamps exhibited flames of different colours, reprcfent-ing the laft city or fortification taken from the Turks, fucji as Afoph, Perecop, Kin-burn,
burn, Kinbam,^. Before the fire works were played off, there was erected upon the river a large tall maft, on which was hung a white flieet of cloath, as broad as the fail of the largefl fhip of war, but longer, fire was put to this as the fignal for beginning : The flame ran up the flieet inflantly like a fiafh of lightening, but left upon it the figure of the city, for the honour of which the works were to be played off? in a deep and glofly fire which continued ten or twelve minutes, before the fheet was deltroyed. Whilfl the fpeclators were qbferving tliis figure, all the lamps were expeditioufly lighted, which, as was faid, exhibited the fame figure, but in a much more extenfive fpace, and thefe continued burning the whole time, and even longer than the fireworks lafled. As the timber galleries were upwards of two hundred foot long, the regularity and difpatch in performing thefe wonderful works no doubt fuqDrifed me, and they had much the fame effect upon people more acquainted with them.
As I was a flranger, and neither underflood the manner nor language of the people, I laid down a plan of behaviour, wliich was to remark the ordinary cufloms of the people, and to ufe all the gentle ways in my power to make them underfland me. I meant no ill, and never to fhew anger or refentment, but with a refolution to put my threats in as compleat execution as I was able, and to go as little out
in
in the night time as I could, wliich I doubt not was the caule of my efcaping many troubles and affronts at firft.
I fhall make two or three remarks of what happened to me during my flay at St Peteri-burgh. I went into the great fquare before the fummer palace to fee the firft regiment of guards exercifed called Preprofenfky, coiir-iifling of betwixt five and 600 men. I walked towards a canal wliich furrounds the palace and gardens, in order to get behind the guards, and get out of the croud. . Looking up the canal, I efpied on the op-polite fide a magnificently rich tent, the rirfl tinie I faw the Emprcfs, accompanied with a great number of ladies and gentlemen. It was eafy to know her by the refpeclfui di-? fiance the ladies and gentlemen kept ; the gentlemen were all uncovered, I thought it could not be taken ill, if I went a little nigh-er to get a view of the Emprefs and court, but walked veiy cautioufly with my hat uw der my ami. A lord called out and made a motion with his hand towards me, and thinking I had tranfgrefled, was going off, but with my eyes fixed on the Court, when I ob^ ferved the Emprefs turn, and heard her fpeak; at which, the lame perfon moved down the fide of the canal nearer to me, and fpoke, made motions, as I thought fignifying that I fliould come nearer to where the Court was. At fii-fl, I dared not, but by the many motions
fions he made, I ventured forward, though (lowly, and had the fatisfaction to lee one of die grand eft courts in the world. The Emprefs Anne was no beauty, but had fome-thing fo graceful and full of majeffy, diat it had a ftrange effect upon me; I, at the fame time, both feared and revered her. The men, were in the richefl drefs, and alfo die ladies, a-mongfl whom were many very exquifite beauties : However I ftole away, as imperceptibly and fuddenly as I could.
The Princeffes Elizabeth and Anne made veiy fine appearances and were both veiy beautiful.
At another time, I was invited to dine at Mr Selkirk's, who lived on the north fide of |ihe river, oppofite the fummer palace. I went to the common ferry, which I had upon former occajions palfed many times : A great number of people went into a boat, which I fuppofcd was to crofs the river, but, to my difappointment,carried me up the Neva to the eaft of the palace, wrhere I had never been : I payed my fare, went afhore, and as I could not get to the other fide, wandered about feeking my way to the city ; but met with difficulties from canals, high walls, and blind flreets. At laft, quite fatigued, I faw a gate open into a garden, and fine gravel walks, which afterwards I was informed was a garden and fiimmer-houfe belonging to die Emprefs ;  Two granadiers
flood
ftood centinels at that gate, who would not fuffer me to enter: I then returned to the ftairs where I had landed, expecting when a boat fliould put off* The Ruftians are the moft dextrous at finding out, and relieving the want of flrangers, of any people, I believe,in the world. I had not ftood long, when a waterman came and fpoke to me, but I not knowing what he faid, pointed to the o-ther fide, and fliewed him a handful of copper money: He pointed to liis boat, took me by the liand, and carried me to the port I defired, nor would he take fo much money as I thought he deferved ; for they dare take no more than their fare.
Another tune after the froft had begun, I was walking under the fliade at the great market-place, wanting to buy fomewhat. At once, a Ruilian merchant took hold of me by the arm, laying fometliing : He took a handful of lhow,and was going to apply it to my face, when I twilled myfelf from liim, but by a certain gentlenefs in his deportment, and anxiety in his countenance, I fubmitted, and he again feized me and rubbed one of my cheeks with lhow till it glowed. I did not well know what to make of it, but was told at my return home, that my cheek was frofted, and that the Ruffians never obferve that in any perfon, but they immediately rub the part well with lhow, wliich indeed I have
fince
fince experienced to be a late and certain cure.
When I lived at the galley-haven, it wa3 my duty daily to go and vilit the lick officers who lived in the city, and fbmetimcs it -was late before I could return. I had been warned to take care not to go on the Pro-fpective; becaufe many people had been robbed and murdered there in the night time, I therefore generally went through a private road in the woods at a dillance from the Pro-ipeclive, A gentlemani lieutenant hi the fleet, Mr Alexander Gordon having had fome bufinefs in St Peterfburgh, and having a de fire to take his bed in my houfe, lived with me fome weeks t
One night we were late together in the city, and propofed to go home through the Profpective, cfpecially as the night was not
verv dark.   We had come near the end of
j
the avenue, when four men rufhed from the woods towards us: We bodi, rcfolutc enough, drew our f words and were determined neither to give nor receive quarters. The rogues obferving that it would hazard their lives and a detection, fuddenly retired again into the woods, leaving us a free paflagc into the gallcy-haven-
I was. obliged to attend the admiralty in order to get my difpatches and money for the journey, and horfes. Thus I had attended daily for tlirec or four weeks, and every
time
time applied to a fecretaiy called Newleboff, a great rogue: His anfwer eveiy time he law me was, Zaftra, that is to lay, to-morrow ; not knowing the meaning of this, and that I might be blameable for not applying to o-thers, I complained to one Gordon a fecretaiy, and translator for the Britilhj alfo by the admiralty.
He declined meddling in this affair* as he was afraid of getting ill-will from the Ruffian fecretaries; but told me, that, notwidiftand-ing bribes were on pain of death, forbidden to be either offered or received, yet that fecretaiy would fcarcely do any thing, unlefs forced, or without fome acknowledgment. He was of opinion, I fliould go to the admiralty daily, and make figns to any gentleman I might fee, and fay what he had taught me. I no fooner had got my leffon, but I went, and it was my fortune to fee the principal fecretaiy, to whom I addreffed myfelf in my jargon. Whilll I was endeavouring to make him conceive what I meant, a gentleman came from the board to fpeak with this fecretaiy ; neither of them could understand me ; but this gentleman, who I afterwards learnt was procurator, took me by the liand, and led me to the board. An admiral, called Mufluacoff, (poke to me in good Englifh.
This gentleman had been long in England, and had frequently fhewn much favour to Britifh fiibjects: To him I laid open the whole
O truth:
truth: He defined me to wait a little ; and gave orders in the Ruis language. Soon thereafter, Nelewboff appeared, when lie obferved I was there, he changed colours, and no doubt faid fomewhat for liis excufe, whilft he was (peaking, he frequently looked to me, and put on an angry and difdainful countenance. I imagined he was acculing me, and knowing it muft be falfe, laid in Rufs, "Techudoi cheloveck," which fignifics that he was a very bad man. I did not know diat I had exceeded in laying Co to an officer, but the Lords of the Admiralty fell into an exceeding fit of laugliing, and widiout more ado gave him orders.
Admiral Mufliiacoff defired me to go with him, and told me lie hoped there would be no more delay, but if there was, he ordered me to wait on the admiralty next day. Accordingly we went out together; when we came to the outer room where the principal lecrctary and writers were, at the fight of us they fell into an immoderate fit of laughter at Nelewboff and me, which feemed much to difturb him, and going through the admiralty yard, he flopped, fpoke in paflion, and threatened, at which I clapped my hand on my fword and wanted to return; on this he   changed    his  tone,    talked calmly, and in the moft abject manner took me by the hand, led me to his apartment, fent for Gordon, and begged all animolity might
be
TRAVELS 107
be laid afide, alTuring me that tilings could not be furniUied that day, but next morning they mould be ready.
For once he kept his word, and I was dil-patcbed without any further trouble. The admiralty, without my delire, alio ordered an old marine, who could fpeak a medley of Englilh and Hollands, which I had no difficulty to underftaiid, to convoy me; this old foldier had been through that country hi Peter the Great's time.
Before I leave this city, I imagine it will be agreeable to give fome account of the money, weights and mcafiires. The coin con-fifts of ducats of gold, rubles, halt' rubles, or poltincs, quarter rubles, or chetwerte ru-bleoif, grivcners or ten copeaks, and copcaks of lilvcr, five copeaks, two copeaks, half co-peaks or diniihkas, and quarter copeaks or poluflika of copper.
A Rufs ducat is worth two rubles. A ruble is in our money much about four fliillings and lixpence, the denominations of half and quarter ruble exprcfs their value ; a grivener is the value of the tenth part of a ruble, as a copeak is the hundreth part. They alfo count by altines, which is at prcfent no coin. An althie contains three copcaks. I never faw an account which mentions ducats. The highefl denominations of money in their accounts are cxprcfl by a fum of rubles.
Ruffian
Ruffian weights confifl of zolotnicks, lotes, flints or pounds, poods and berkewitz. A zo~ lotnick weighs two penny-weight 17 grains 1 fourth Englifli. Three zolotnicks make a lote; 32 lotes make a pound. The Rufs pound is exactly apothecary weight ; forty pounds make a pood ; ten poods make a 'berkwitz, and 63 poods make a tun.
Liquid meafure confilts of cruikas, vedros, ftakans, anchors and hogs. Eight cruikas make a vedro, one and a half vedro make a ftakan, two llakans make an anchor, fix anchors make an hog, or, according to our language, hogiliead, which fignifies the fame thing, and is the fame meafure.
Diy meafure confifls of vocemiks, chet-vericks and chetwoiths : One chetverick contains four vocemicks, and one chetworth contains eight chctvericks, equal to 24 pecks, or fix bufhels Englifli.
CHAP. XXVL
Concerning Ruffian Mcafircs of Extenfon,
THEIR meafure of cxtenfion is thus divided and denominated ; veri-chock, archine, 28 inches, fazen, verfl: An arcliinc contains 16 equal parts, called verf-chocks, a fazen contains three archines, and a verfl is mcafured by 500 fazens.  As feven
feet
feet Englifli are nearly equal to a fazen, a verfl: is equal to 3500 feet, or 1140 ells Englifli ; one degree contains about 104 verfts, according to the meafure of Picardy. In my travels through Rullia, I fliall confine my meafure to verfls, except in defarts not mea-f ured, wliich are calculated only by hours, and this way of meafuring is not very uncertain, providing you travel with the fame horfes, and at an equal pace.
CHAP. XXVII.
The Author leaves St Petersburgh,    Account of the Earns*
ON the 8th of September 1737, I left St Peterfburgh, and at four o'clock P.M. arrived at a village called Eamfkoi. It is a iiiburb to the city, where travellers get horfes, and all villages in Ruffia, which by the law are obliged to keep horfes, are called Earns. Thele villages have a grant of fo much land as is fufficient for their maintenance, and are therefore obliged to keep a number of horfes, particularly for die ufe of the army or fleet, and are fatisfied to take fmall wages for thefe in the fervice of the Empire.
Every Earn has proper officers appointed to fee that difpatch be regularly given. They have alfo a cantoin in St Peterfburgh who fu-
perintends
pcrintends all affairs belonging to thefe Earns; and takes care diat gentlemen from the army or fleet do not diftrefs them. But if it happen, that, upon any pretence, delay fhould be made in inflantly getting the horfes ready, the exprefs, whether officer or common centinel, has a power to bring them to reafon with a whip, not fparing their ftarofts or fuperiors.
A remarkable inftance of this kind happened at the time of my firft letting out: A fer-jeant was difpatched from the army to the cabinet; he rode day and night till he arrived at St Peterfburgh* The Emprefs ordered him into her prefence, to enquire particularly about the army, and obferving the mark of a ftroke upon his face, was pleafcd to afk the caufe. He faid, That the poft-boy or eamfhick, not riding faft enough, he therefore wliipped his horfe, and the boy gave liim a ftroke over die face. Upon this die pofh boy was taken under arreft, and a certain number of eamfliicks, or thofe poft-pcoplc, were fummoned to attend on a fixed day at St Peterfburgh, from all the Earns betwixt Mofcow and Peterfburgh.
On the appointed day, the faid poft-boy was hanged, and an imperial decree lent dirough Ruflia, letting forth the crime and execution ; and further declaring, that none, of what condition focver, fhould, upon any pretence whatever, moleft, flop, or hinder any courier *iifpatched from the army or licet,
to
TRAVEL  S. in
to St'Peterfburgh, or from the fupreme cabinet to any province or city through the Empire ; and that if eamfhicks fliould in any manner hinder or flop any exprefs employed in the affairs of the Empire, fuch delinquents fhall fuffer death. jp
Here two obfervations occur, with which I fhall clofe this chapter. Firft, The abfolute nature of the Ruffian government; and next, The ready fervice that is given to its couriers, or difpatches, from one end to the other of that vaft Empire, than wliich nodiing can more advantage the affairs of ftate, efpecial-ly in times of war, and on odier important emergencies.
CHAP. XXVIII,
What happened to the Author in his way to Mofcow.
AT this village 300 failors were ready to march with their proper officers early next morning for Afoph. As I knew not any of them, I thought proper, with my old foldier, and two carriages, to proceed fifteen verfts further, where there is a fmall village, and where a guard is kept to examine every <>ne*s paffports. In this village I lodged, and proceeded on my journey early next morn-mg ; but had not travelled far, till I was o-
vertaken
vertaken by the above-mentioned body of failors, driving in carts like Jehu. One horfe and cart were allotted for tliree failors. They foon palfed me: However, I happened to dine at the fame village where they were. As my foldier could fpeak broken Englifli, J went td their Commander, acquainted him what I was, where I was going, and begged he would take me along with him, and order horfes to be got ready for me with thole belonging to liis command, for which I fliould readily pay my proportion. Tins he not only granted, but let the whole command know my profelliort, that they might refpect me as an officer belonging to themfclves, and fhew me all civilities.
At the fame time, he introduced a boat-fwain, an Englifhman, of whofe company, though not veiy refined, I was truly glad. We marched from tliis village till we arrived, without any-accident, at the Priftan upon the banks of the river Volehoff, through a very woody countiy, but good roads and many villages, all the houfes of which were built of wood, and the ftreets laid with the fame materials. Every houfe of any confequence has a great gate, which opens into a large fquare covered deep with clean ftraw, and built on every fide with wooden wralls and timber fliades, wliich prevent rain from falling upon cattle or carriages ; for they have no other liable. I imagine it is a good eafy contrivance,
TRAVELS,
vance, and better for horfes than our (tables, and although the frofl is exquifitely inteiife in that country, yet then* catde have no other liable, nor have I ever heard that the cold hurts chem, and they feed well.
The diftance betwixt St Peterfburgh and Priftan is 115 verfts : When we arrived there, the captain told me, That he wras obliged to liire barks to carry his men to Novogorod, and that if I would go by water, I fliould have a cabbin granted to Mr Rannie and me, for tliis was the boatfwain's name. I accepted of his offer, and was tranfportcd up the river to Novogorod, diflant 67 verfts from Priftan. I paid one copeak per verfl for one* horfe, from St Peterfburgh to Priftan, from Priftan to Mofcow, and thence to Cotchalore, at the rate of fix copeaks per ten verfts ; but •I'm informed that travelling is at prefent more expenfive.
The river Volehoff takes its rife from the lake Ilmen, runs through the city of Novogorod, and difembogues itfelf into the Ladoga lake. Tliis river is extremely pleafant, is well flored with a variety of fifli, and has plenty of water-fowls. On its banks arc many large and populous, many fweet and pleafant villages. The country is really moft delightful, abounding with-every thing fit for man and .beaft. The loll appears to be light, but very fertile, and the only agriculture there, is that of turning up the clod.
P Novogorod
Novogorod Vclike, or die great Novogorod, is laid to have formerly been a very great city, and indeed it is veiy probable it was lb. It was faid to have been deftroyed by Ivan Valilytch the tyrant, with iiich fury and unheard of cruelty, that I fhall neither pain my reader with fuch cruel relations, nor help to perpetuate the memory of fuch a monftcr.
There are faid to be no lefs than nearly 200 monafteries and churches in this city. I fcarcely believe there are twice that number of houfes, and thole too veiy mean, and the people poor. Then' houfes, ftreets, and walls, are all built of timber, but their monafteries are veiy grand. Here is a citadel built of ftone, but it is not a regular fortification. Novogorod Ve-like is die metropolis of a veiy large province of the fame name. There are at prefent very many village's in Ruflia, much larger than Novogorod, and much better built. It may juftly now be called the city of priefts. It is a bi-fhop's fee. The metropolitan and others of the clergy, are faid to enjoy very large revenues in land, if the prefent Emprefs has not feized upon part of them, which would undoubtedly be good ceconomy, as thefe wretches are the veiy worft of tyrants over their fellow creatures.
The province cf Novogorod is bounded by Ingermanland or Ingria on the north, Pfkopfkoi province on the weft, the province cf Mofcow on the fouth, and Bicloozerfke province
vince on the eaft. Tliis province is betwixt 56 and 61 degrees north latitude, and betwixt 47 and 56 ealt longitude. The metropolis lies in 58 degrees 25 minutes north latitude, almoft fouth-caft from St Peterfburgh. The lake Ilmen is diftant from the city fouth by weft 11 verfts, and is faid to be 18 Polifh miles long from eaft to weft, and 1 2 broad from fouth to north. Tliis lake is well ftored with variety of fine fifli.
As veiy little happened worth the reader's attention on my pallage from Novogorod to Mofcow, I fhall fet down the names of the cities, earns, and their diflances one from the o-ther, all, the way to Mofcow, and after that make fome general remarks concerning' the
O <~J
country, cities, and villages through which I paffed.
Imprimis, To Brunets verfts 25, to Zuilzoff 30, to Kreflitza 33, to Eafliifbitza 40, to Zy-mygotze 23, to Earova 22, to Chotelova 38, to Vefhnevolotehock 37, to Vidropfkei-eam 3 3, to Torzchoak 37, to Medna 33, to Tweer 37, to Gorodyn 30, to Gavidova 30, to Kleen 27, to Binka 30, to Tchurno 25, to Mofcow 28.
Thefe are the names of only die cities or villages where I took refrelhment, but there arc more villages on the road which I paffed through. I added the number cf verfts, and found them juft 725, tho' I'm told, by a late admeasurement they amount to 784. No
pcrfca
i r 6      VOYAGES and
perfon poflefled of the above route can be ini-poled on by the eamfhicks, which they are more ready to do to (hangers betwixt St Peterfburgh and Mofcow, than any where elle in Kuflia?
C PI A P. XXIX.
A continuation of the former.
AFTER we had lodged one night in No? vogorod, we had orders next morning ■to embark and proceed by water to Brunets. Tliis fcene exhibited a great deal of tendcr-nefs betwixt the failors and their wives, who had travelled from St Peterfburgh to Novogorod, to take their laft farewell of their huf-bands, whom they had but fmall hopes of e-vcr feeing again, not fo much from fear of the war, as from the inclemency of the climes to which they were bound. The officers waited patiently for about an hour on the banks of the river, and feemed to fympathize with them in their friendly embraces ; but at laft, finding that orders and entreaties could not force the hufbands from their wives, who clung to them, they fent fome fubalterns a-mongft them, who without ceremony net only parted the loving pahs, but tiled them fo ill, as even fliocked my humanity.
The
The bitter lamentations and fervent prayers of the women on fhore, and the iilent fig-nals made to them by then- hufbands from the barks, were truly tender and affecling. At laft, all hands were employed in warping, pufhing with filings, and rowing againll the ftream, till we palfed under the ftone bridge up the river into the Ilmen lake, which was about the time of the morning prayers.
The Ruflians are extremely devout, and, if poffible, will not let any opportunity flip in putting up their prayers to heaven, efpecially when they are to malce veiy long and dangerous voyages or travels : They therefore ordered the barks to bring to at a monaltery on die north fide of the Jake. I went into the church with them, where they uled very many proftrations and croilings, whilft the priefts were imploring heaven for their f afety and fuccefs.
After prayers were ended, we, having a fair wind, crofted the lake, and arrived at Brunets, where we were foon mr milled with horfes, and let out about dinner-time, being the fourth day from St Peterfburgh, and took up our night's lodging in Zuilzoff, after having travelled through a veiy plentiful fine country. Next morning, according to my cuftom, I departed long before the command, and fo palled through all the villages formerly mentioned, till we arrived in Twcer, without meeting with an}' accident.
TliLs
This country, though more open than betwixt Novogorod and St Peterfburgh, is veiy full of woods. Hence, as I was told, a Rui-iian peafant had begged leave of Peter the Great, to cut a fmall canal, in order to join a branch of the rivers Volga and Mlla, which runs into the lake Ilmen ; and, in order to defray his expences, he procured a royal edict, to impofe upon paffengers a fmall toll at a bridge laid over this canal, and another toll for opening the draw-bridge to let barks pafs and repafs from the one river to the other. That great Emperor not only granted the boor's requeft, but nobilitated him, and made the tplls or impofts perpetual to him and liis heirs or fuccelfors, providing the canal and bridge were kept in good repair, and refcrved only free palTage for his own armies and fleet.
The peafant performed with great judgment what he had propofed, and his fuccelfors live in opulence from the annualrcnts they get; for by this canal a palTage is opened from St Peterfburgh to Aflrachan for linall barks, and this has not only incrcafed trade, but rendered the immenfe woods, in that di-, ftant country, ufeful even in St Peterfburgh and Mofcow.
Valdoi is a very pleafant large village, ancj lias a beautiful lake in full view of it. At two miles diftance, almoft in the middle of the lake, there is an ifland and monaftciy. The ifland is well covered with trees, and makes a
fine
fine profpect from the village. When a traveller enters tliis village, no matter whether Rufs or foreigner, lie is immediately furround-ed with many girls, wanting to fell wheat-bread baked hi a particular form, like to plaited ropes, which they call kringlkes. Thefe girls feern to be a different people from the Rufiians. I was told they came from the borders of Poland. They are very pretty, and remarkably well coloured. They are alfo extremely kind and obliging to ffrangers, and will, I doubt not, for a fmall coniideration, grant them the laft favour.
CHAP. XXX.
A cominuation of the fame difcourfe.
EARLY in the morning we arrived in Tweer, crofling the great river Volga on a floating timber bridge. Tweer is a very large city, moftly built with timber, the ftreets are made of the fame materials, fo that when a fire happens in any part, it generally proves dreadful. The greateft part of the city is on die fouth-eaft fide of the river. A citadel, fiirronnded with earthen ramparts and wooden walls, is on the north-weft of the Volga. Tweer is now formed into a dutchy, and the territories fubject to its jurifdidtion are taken from the provinces of Mofcow and Novogo-
iod.
rod. It is a city of great commerce, fends the produce of Ruffia all the way to Aftrachan, and many other countries, by water, in flat, but very broad and long barks; and, in lieu thereof, it receives goods from India, Siberia, Perfia and Georgia. Of what extent their trade may be, I cannot fay, but it is, no doubt, very confiderable.
On the ninth day from St Peterfburgh, we fet out in the morning, and dined at Goro-din. I told Mr Rannie, that in the nighttime I had a pair of new Ihoes and my buckles ftolen from my waggon, notwithstanding I flept in it. He faid that poffibly this was the fame thief who had attempted to fteal his beft coat and veft. After I was gone away, Mr Rannie rofe and followed the thief, and with a hanger almoft killed liim ; at the lame time they were both feized and carried to the commander, who lent the thief to the governor, who alfo demanded Rannie, but the commander woidd not only not lend him, but alfo refilled to put him under arreft. The fteaiing of my f hoes and buckles fnrniflied Rannie with a fine plea ; and this trifling affair employed the pens of the writers in representing it both to the admiralty, and the governor of Tweer.
CHAP,
T R A V EL S,
la*
C HAP. XXXI.
A Continuation of the fame, and our Arrival in Mofcow.
FROM Gorodin we marched on to Mofcow, where we arrived the twelfth day from St Peterfburgh.   The country betwixt Tweer and Mofcow is not fo full of woods, but ftill there are very many, and though the foil is light, yet it produceth plentifully for man and beaft; but the inhabitants are much given to pilfering, drinking, and many other vices.   I cannot help obferving here the magnificent profpect tliis metropolis (fitua-ted in 55 degrees 1 o minutes north latitude, 55 degrees 3 o minutes eaft longitude, diftant from St Peterfburgh 730, fome call it 734 verfts,) made, at the diftance of fix or feven verfts, for the many thoufand turrets, moft-ly covered with gilt copper,  are wonderfully grand and beautiful ; but at our arrival, I was not a little furprized to rind, that, except a few palaces and churches, the great^ eft part of this iiiperb city was built with timber. I was fcarcely houfed, when I was greatly frightened with a difpute betwixt one of my camflucks and my old foldier.   It feems the eamfhick, alking more money than his fare, words rofe high, and he reached a fud-
den
den flroke with a great flick, which laid old Firelock flat on the ground.
I was at no great diftance, and, being then young and thoughtlef's, drew my fword, and, had not the fellow retreated, I fliould certainly have wounded, if not killed him ; but he and his comerade run to the other end of the court. By tliis time my old foldier had recovered his feet, and, tho* blooding copioufly, feemed to take little notice of it, but I was very much miflaken ; for he, with great deliberation, walked up towards the man that had flruck himi who, fearing what was to happen, fcram-bled to the top of the fliade. His neighbour, not thinking lie would hurt him, though the villain had attempted to beat the foldier, flood frill, but, at one blow with the great brafs hilt of his broad fword, old Firelock brought him to the ground : However, I intcrpofed, and hindered him from being further hurt. At the very inftant in which my foldier had knocked down the one, the other flipping his feet, fell from the fliade. He was nothing the worfe of the fall, as he fell on his feet ; but, though lucky in this refpect, the foldier gave him two blows on the head, both wliich reached the fkull. I got him at laft confined, flopped the blood, and dreffed die wounds ; but the varlets, in place of returning me thanks, went off with their horfes, threatening to have me and my foldier taken under arreft ; however, I heard no more of them.
CHAP.
CHAP. XXXIL Short Objcreations on Mofcow, its Bells,
MOSCOW is truly a pleafant, large, po* pulous city, and, being almoft circular, is laid to be feyen verfts in diameter. Ha* ving but little time to fpare, I at prefent faw but few curiofities ; however, I went to fee the great bell, which was then in a large pit. A fire had, about two months before this, burnt down near two thirds of this great city, and the belfry, being all of timber, fha-red the fame fate ; the bell fell into the bottom of the pit, and had a piece broken out of its edge, large enough to permit any man to go into it. Its weight is faid to be 443,772 lib. Its height is about 21 feet 4! inches, its diameter I could not tell, but it teemed to be very well proportioned. It was impoffi-ble to find out its diameter by meafure, as its broadeft lips were funk confiderably into the earth, fo that they could not be meafured. Mr Hairway fays, its weight is 12,327 poods, =443,772 lib. Englifb;its height 21 feet 4J inches, its value L. 65,681 Stcrling,its diameter at die top 7 feet 4J inches, and at the bale, he fays, it meafure s 22 feet 4J inches.
I the:i
I then went to the top of a veiy high tower, called Ivan Velike, or the Great John, I fuppofe after the tyrant Ivan Vafilytch. From diis tower I had a complete view of the whole city, which indeed made a very grand appearance. The weather being very cold, the Rulfians heat then* ftoves before daylight, and make ufe of fire at no time of the day, except to get dinner ready, fo that the view is never, but at thofe times, obftrucled by fmoke.
Upon the top of this tower there are three bells, I think the leaft of which is larger than the largefl in London. Under the tower is the antient Imperial palace, a large Gothick ftone building. All thefe I have mentioned, and all the imperial antient archives, and different courts of juftice, are in that part of the city called the Crimline, which is f iirrounded with a high brick wall, faid to be about 2000 paces in circumference. I fhall fay little more about this city at prefent, but fliall make further mention of it at my return to it, when I flaid four months in it.
I went after tliis and vifited Mr Tarncr, and delivered him a commiffion from my friend Mr Bell of Antermony. He detained me to fupper, and fent me home in his coach. On my way home, I was flopped a fliort time by a party of dragoons, who patrol through the city in the night-time, notwithstanding there are many thouf and citizens who keep
watch
watch, like onr watchmen of London, to prevent robberies, thefts, and incendiaries. After a fhort examination, the dragoons looked into the coach with a lanthorn, and let me pafs.
CHAP. XXXIII.
The Author leaves Mofcow.
IT was now the 20th of September, and the froft was fetting in very fall. At Peterfburgh I bought a- veiy long good morning gown lined with fur ; and I hoped, that, as I was travelling towards the fouth, I fliould liand in need of no other covering to keep me from the cold, but in tliis I was much millaken, and indeed for fome mornings pall I had been obliged to get out of my waggon, and run on foot to keep myfelf warm. I was advifed therefore, by my foldier and landlord, to buy an wolf's fkin fur, and lucky it was for me that I follbwed their advice ; for without it, a large furred cap, and the bell boots, I coidd not have flood out the journey, as the cold was fo intenfc and fevcre.
Next morning, fo foon as the ports were open, I left Mofcow, and proceeded in my route to TaverhoiT, through the following cities and villages, with the numbers of verfts annexed to them, paying at the fame rate as I
had
had done from Novogorod to Mofcow per horfe. The 300 failors I never law after this day, and was now obliged to travel only with my old foldier. Thus equipped and furniftV cd with provisions, I took the following route: Folonna Gorra 5 verfb from Mofcow, to Pa-chra 29, to Molodie 20, to Laperna 16, to Serpuchoff 25, to Lyriti iq, to Veolmen 25, to Vafham 15, to Tula Earn 30, to Dedi-loff 10, to Bocharoditza 25, to Kirfofske 12, to Mekilfchoka 1 o, to Krufliova, all del art, 30, to Echvim 15, to Polne, all delart, 45, to Elitfka Earn 25, to Tfvala 22, to Kaflia 17, to Sellochlilnie Earn 25, to Konhalodcs 8, to Voronits, all defart, 12, to Taverhoff i o verfts. In all, from Mofcow to Taverhoff, 437 verfts.
Though I fet out from Mofcow early on die 21 ft, yet I could proceed no further than Polonna Gorra, on account of my lbldier having drunk too freely with our landlord at JVlofcow, fo that I only marched to Pachra late in the evening; after that I continued to travel through the above-mentioned villages, without meeting with any thing remarkable, till I arrived at Tula, (on the 2 3d) fituated 54 degrees 1 o minutes north latitude, and 55 eaft longitude. Here I was detained very agreeably five days, by a general having taken all the horfes from this Earn the day before I arrived.
Tula
Tula is a veiy large, village, and in it are many forges for making fmall arms for the ufe of the army, and a foundeiy for calling hand-granades and larger fhells. A few officers and artillery4bldiers fuperintend diis work. They told me that the number of workmen coiififted of about 2000, and many mafters ; that it formerly belonged to Mr Dimidcoff, a rich Siberian merchant, who was the firft that wrought the great iron-mines of Siberia ; and that in Siberia he had at leaft 100,000 men at work. Peter the "Great gave him great privileges, and, among others, a liberty to engage, for the working in thefe mines, all vagrants and villains, who were afraid of being impreffed into the army, or of punifhment due for their crimes; be-fides, many thoufand criminals who did not cleferve death, were fent there to work for a fixed time, or during their lives, at a very fmall wage.
But I was again told, that the Emprefs E-lifabeth had nobiiitated the grand-cliildren of the old Dimidcoff, redeemed the grant of Peter the Great, and put die iron mines into the poiTeilion of the crown ; but I have a ilrong fufpicion tliis will not fucceed, for certain reafons, which I may afterwards have occalion to mention.
CHAP.
CHAP, XXXIV*
The Author's journey from Tula to Taverbojf.
HAVING ftaid at Tula five days, and been moft agreeably entertained by the artillery officers, I left it on the 28th of September about one o'clock P. M. I had not travelled four verfts till I began to experience to what cuftrefles travellers are iubject, and muft fubmit.   A north eaft wind blew violently, accompanied with a veiy fmart froft; The road   here was deep, from the rain that had fallen,  and rrom the marching of fome foldiers to one of the armies ai t-ing againft the Turks ;  but notwithstanding the froft, it was not hard enough in many places to bear up our machines* The puddle, however, froze to the wheels, and we were frequently obliged to halt and cut it, to make them turn round ; add to this, the fhow drove fb furioufly in our laces, that we loft our way, nor could we fee twice the length of a horfe before us.    Thus fatigiied, bewildered, and afraid of being frozen to death, we were ready to defpair, when, in an inftant, wc heard the barking of dogs at no great diftance : This cliipeilcd our fears, revived our fpirits, and following the found,
we
TRAVELS- 129
we foon arrived at a fmall village, called De-diloff, belonging to an officer in the guards.
We proceeded to a great gate, as the cul-tom is, and defired admittance for the night. Two fervants, armed with halberds, told us in a furly manner, that we fhould have no harbour there, and threatned our lives if we attempted to force our way. Old Steven, for that was my foldier's name, recommended himfelf to St Nicolas, fcrewed his bayonet on liis mufket, and fwore that the firft man Who durft to advance, fliould inftantly.be fent to the devil,   lie then, by the ailiftance of our eamfliicks, got on the top of the gate, and made as if he intended to fire into the court; upon which, the party thought proper to retreat into the houfe.   The foldier opened the gate, and let us all in.   He next defired' me to put on my fword, and fcrew the bayonet on my fowling-piece, for he laid, there was no trufting to thefe wretches, which I believe might be true.  I did as.he advifed, and in tliis manner we entered the houfe. When we came to the door, Steven again let them know, that if the leaft violence was but offered to any of us, none of their lives would be fpared ; diat, as we had the honour to ierve the Emprefs, we were determined rather to die like men, than to be frozen to death.
But how much was I furprifed, when we entered into a large room, to fee a veiy pret-
R ty
ty lady furroundcd by many maidens ! 1 made her all the compliments I could, and ordered Steven to allure her we were in the ierviee, and that I would anfwer for the behaviour of my people, providing her's were quiet; and that I always flept in my travelling waggon, and only deiired, that he and the drivers might be allowed to deep in fome warm room ; to which (he agreed : She appeared however fomewhat fullen, and while We were taking lide-views of one anodier, an old man, with a long white, beard, entered the room, and, after having enquired into the caufe of the dilfnrbance, told me, that he was veiy forry that it had fo happened, but added that the authors fliould be punifhed. He faid, that young lady was liis foil's wife, and that her hufband was in the army; that he liimfelf had long ferved Peter the Great, and confequendy wiflied Well to the army; that the village was his, and but a little way from our right road ; he preffed me to go to his houie to partake of a flipper, to which I had not the fmallefl objection.
Indeed, this old gentleman regaled me in a princely manner: He laid, it would be im-poihble for me to proceed in my travelling waggon if the froft continued ; and therefore ordered a great fledge to be fitted up to receive my waggon with its wheels ; which was fo expedition fly done, that when I took my leave of him to go to bed in my waggon,
every
every thing was fixed ; and, with much diffir culty, I was allowed to give liis men a ruble for their trouble.
A travelling waggon is a moft convenient vehicle, made like to an oblong coach, with a coach-box for die driver to fit on, in wliich are placed a fmall bed and pillows: It is covered with leather, and lined with baize. I therefore rather chofe to fleep in my waggon, tha# in a room full of people and naufeous ImeUs, and indeed, with the help of good furs, and a wax candle, burning half an hour aiter it was buckled up, I flood out the greatefl frofts •very comfortably. This old gentleman was a mofl agreeable landlord, his company fuch as I loved much : He gave me a fhort hiflo-ry of the life and actions of Peter the Great, of wliich he was veiy capable, as he belonged to the guards, and many times had fought under liis immediate orders, and near his perfon ; and indeed he was fb wonderfully agreeable and entertaining that had not Lethe overcome Steven my interpreter, I believe neither of us would have thought of fleep till early in the morning : But we parted at midnight, and I never faw my friendly hoft again, for next morning, before I awakened from deep, we were fome miles dillant from this village,
After tliis, we paffed on till we arrived at. a fmglc houfe, near a village, called Echvim, fituated on tliis fide of a defart, 45 verfts
over
over, where nothing but fky and fnow was to be feen, without meeting any thing worth relating. The Ifba, or warm room was very large, but a number of mafons and other labourers had taken pofleifion of it in then-way from Voronits, fo that tliere was fcarce-ly room for me to lit down. »
I expreired my fears to Steven, that they might Ileal fomething from my waggon; and therefore, as we did not intend to ilay long, propofed that he and I mould interchanger-ably watch the waggon and baggage. But he was of another opinion, and advifed me to charge my pipe with tobacco, and to put near the top fome alTa fcetida mixed with to.-bacco, for, faid he, " When you have lighted it, and they obferve the aifa fcetida begin to burn, then to blow from me, I will anfwer for the confequencc."   The common people in Ruiiia are extremely religious and ignorant, and confequendy extremely fiiperfliti-ous.   They believe that no perfon, or nation can have the leaft chance of being faved, even by the merits of our Saviour, unlefs they profefs die Greek religion : they imar gine that they have lefs or more fome cor-refpondence with the devil: and that thole who profefs any branch of medicine, are his moll intimate friends, hence, the following affair will not furprife the reader.
I did as the foldier had directed, thole next me perceiving the fmell of fomething
more
more than tobacco, began to retire to the door, where Steven did not fail to raife their fufpicions and fears to the greater!: height, but when I had blown out- the rich fumes of alia fcetida, they reached thofe on the top of the flove firft, who,  coughing exceflively, jumped down with the greateft precipitation on their neighbours, frightened out of their wits, and, in the hurry to get out of the room, fome were not a little bruifed. Upon their retreat, Steven entered laughing, and told me that were we to remain all clay and night, the landlord liimfelf would not enter the houfe, that he was certain their prieft Would be fent for to fancfify the houfe by prayers, holy waters, and fumigations : He faid as it was Lent, if he had not got them out, he muft have failed that day, as he had nothing to eat but what I left, and this by the Ruffians is efteemed pagana, or unclean. Tliis indeed, would have been fevere treat* ment to Steven; for none loved their paunch or eafe better than liimfelf: Thus having dined plentifully, and fed our horfes, who had performed but a finall journey : We proceeded, at about the diftance of a quarter verft, and paffed all the miferable people, whom we had turned out, fome fitting on the fnow, others running about, others placing at hand and foot to keep themfelves warm.   We had not travelled four verfts further, when a young Coflack came up with us,
at
at which time our eamfliicks were infinuating that they were afraid they fhould not find the road.
I enquired of this young man, he faid, he was not acquainted with the road, but believ-ed we were very right, I promifed him a trifle, if he would keep us company, to wliich he agreed. We had not travelled much further till the fky, wlikh was ferene before, began to overcafl, and was fuc^ ceeded by a thick fall of fnow. The young man at this feemed much difmayed, and told me that many people had been loll by fuch accidents, who were well acquainted with the del art at other times, in lliort, we continued to travel on, in the heavy fall of fnow, til} the young man rode forward, and for fome time difappeared, but at laft returned and allured us, that we were right, for that he had difcovered a valley hard by, well known to him.
We proceeded to this valley, where he defired us to feed our horfes. We did fb, and then proceeded. We had hardly gone five verfls further, wrhen the fky turned clear, the wind abated, and in fhort, the cold de-creafed fo much, that it appeared to be thaw. The horfes were much fatigued, though we were flill about i o verfls diflant from our de-figned village.
Afraid of being obliged to take up my lodging in die defart, I walked on foot, and
obliged
TRAVELS 133
obliged my foldier and - die reft to do the fame, but at laft,- being conftitutionally un-1 able to bear much fatigue, I was obliged to betake myfelf to the waggon. We had not travelled far, when I obferved the foldier fitting behind my waggon, I upbraided him, and ordered him to get off; he did fo, and, as I believed, imagined I could not proceed without liim ; for he laid himfelf down upon the fnow, nor offered to ftir, when we were at leaft a verft diftant from liim. I was told this by the eamfliicks, and indeed faw him myfelf, but afraid, Steven would become my mafter, had I yielded to liis humour, I ordered the eamfliicks to drive oh to the village, nor did I difcover my thoughts about liim to any perfon : I had it always in my power to have lent in feareh of him, but deemed it right to allowr a rcafonablc time for his arrival ; and indeed, he did not deceive me, for he arrived before I expected him, and for liis excufe, he laid he was feized with a violent cholic, and could not fo much as acquaint me with the reft of liis complaint.
I told liim that I underflood his difeafe, that I was determined not to be trilled with, and that lie might provide liimfelf with meat and drink for the future unlefs, lie were to behave better in time coming; for though I could fpeak but a little of the Rufs, I would get him, punifhed for liis obftinacy. Upon this, he alk-«?d pardon, and promiled to act fo no mote :
Thus
Thus we were friends, and he behaved well till we arrived at TaverhofF.
The truth was, he was afraid that the wolves would have made a meal of liim, and I was of the fame opinion, and this made him repair fo veiy expeditioufly to the village. Having arrived fafe at Polno 45 verfts from our laft ftage, I was as glad as a general could be of having gained a victory, for indeed, we ran a great rifque of loling our road, of being frozen, or ftarved, or of being devoured by wolves, who are fometimes feen to the number of three or 400 together, and fo furious are they, as I have been told, that they enter villages, and fometimes devour men and beafts.
From Polno, we met with nothing worth relating, till we arrived at Voronits, though we palled dirough another fmall defart betwixt Koukalodis and Voronits, being only 12 verfts. Having day light, we marched 011 1 o miles further to TaverhofF, fituated in 52 degrees, 30 minutes north latitude, 57 degrees, fix minutes eaft longitude, where I arrived on the fourth of October: Thus in 26 days, I marched from St Peterfburgh to TaverhofF, diftant from'Mofcow 443 verfts, in moft books, it is called Towrow veiy improperly : Let it therefore once for all be remembered, that I fpeli names according as the Ruffians found them. Ii any ftranger was to pronounce them as I have fpelled
them
Travels. i37
them, every Ruffian would readily under-fland what is meant, but if they were to enquire bf a Ruilian according to the pronunciation of former writers, I can engage that none but fuch as are ufed to foreign pronunciations, could underftand what was meant : My knowledge of the Ruffian language makes me quite certain of this point.
CaptainCarrabine, a Ruilian, who had been in England, and fpoke the language well, was commander of the port. Jie faid, that notwithftanding my delays at Mofeow and o-ther places, I had made a very 'expeditious journey, confldering how heavy the carriages were to the finall number of horfes. Though from the map, it would appear that Vero-nits is not far from Mofcow, yet the necef-fity to get provifion and horles, oblige travellers to take a veiy crooked and round-a-bout road.
Tavcrhoff it will appear is very near due fouth from Mofeow: I was told, (for as all the country was covered with fnow, I could be no judge of it) that the Country is very rich in provifion for men and beafts. I believe this to be very true ; for I experienced no want, and at fuch a fmall price, that it would leem incredible to people who never had been out of Britain.
As my flay in TaverhofF Was very fhort, I fhall lay no more of it nor of Vcronits till my return.   At my arrival, Captain Carrabine
S behaved
138      V O YAGES and
behaved moft difcreetly. He had me frequently to dinner or iupper, and feemed as if he could not want me : He laid my new commander Prince Golitzin was an exceeding good man, that he atpreient was hiKotchatoffon the river Don, not far from the city Teherkalkoi, which is lituated within 20 verfts of Albph, well fortified with many cannon, and where the Hetman or Prince of the Co flacks reiides, that he may have the earlieft notice of any depredations from the neighbouring Tartars: He laid, that as Mr Burman, the only furgeon they had to atte*nd the officers, marines, and failors belonging to the port, as alio the hofpital, was lick, and efpecially as he well knew the Prince, in about a month or fix weeks, would return with his command; he, for thefe reafons, thought it needlefs to fend me toKot-chatoff, where I would be veiy uncertain of finding liim, fince he, Carrabine, was certain, lb foon as he fliould receive orders from the admiralty, he would lofe no time in coming to TaverhofF.
Thus I palled my time in attending the fick in the hofpital and garrilbn, till the beginning of December. About this time, one evening having flipped at Carrabine's, he told me, that Mr Burman was out of fome medicines ; therefore, faid he, I doubt not you'll readily gave him from your's what may be at prefent needful; that he was certain the Prince would take it in good part, and thank
me
me for doing fo. I anfwered him, diat my inftruclions from the Medicine chancery ordered, that, by my oath to the government, I fhould carefully carry thefe medicines for the ufe of the men under the orders of 'Prince Go-litzin my commander, and there break open die feal, and require a centinel, as the cuftom of Ruifia is, to be appointed, with liis drawn fword, to guard thefe medicines, left any might make free with them without my knowledge ; and that I fhould not dare to give any part of them to any perfon, except fuch as were immediately under the Prince's command, as I fliould anfwer at my peril to God and the Emprefs.
I laid, thefe were my orders; and that, tho' I was extremefy fenflble of the eafy and elegant civilities he had fhewn me, I was yet determined to act conformably to my inftructi-ons. I at the fame time allured him, that I would not only give liim and liis lady proofs of my gratitude and refpect, but was alio willing to do every thing in my power for the recovery of the meaneft of his fervants. He anfwered, that he knew I had fuch inftrucli-011s ; that every one entrufted with her Maje-fty's medicines had the fame ; that, however, it was looked upon as a mere form, and that the Medicine chancery well knew, that their furgeons not only lent their medicines, but cured with them her Majefty's officers, their wives, children, and fervants. I anfwered, that
what-
whatever others might do, I was determined, though at the peril of my life, not only to keep my oaths, but alio my promifes im violable, both to her Majefty, and to all men. Upon this the captain began to fhow many airs, fit only, as I told him, to frighten cliildren ; and, amongft other things, he told me, that he would take Stephen from me. This, I aflured liim, was only in the power of the fupreme court of admiralty, or of my immediate commander Prince Golitzin, and that, if he did lb, I would immediately dii-continue all duty, and have it decided by a court martial; and thus I left him. Next morning, as I was on duty in tjie hofpital, a writer put info my hand a pafTport, telling 1 me at the fame time, that I muft let out that very day. I commanded him out of the hofpital, and confulted with Mr Burman what was to be done. He, well knowing how un-r fit he was, by reafon of his difeafe, to attend the lick, and how uncertain his time of life might be, by a petition to the Cantoir, required that I might be detained in Taverhoff. So brutal was the vain Carrabine, that he gave no ear to this, but go I muft. I acknowledge I had no liking to tliis journey in the whiter leaf on, though it would have been moft a-greeable in the fummer, as my route lay thro' the pleaianteft country cf the Ukraine, on the beautiful banks of the Don, the ancient Ta-nais : However, I, in hopes the Prince might
arrive
T R A V E I/S. i4r
arrive every day, poftponed it as Jong as I could ; and indeed it was fix days after I had got my paf's, before I thought to go in eaiv neft. The incenfed 'Carrabine imagined- I was gone, as I had not appeared in public ; but that day, I walked by Ms houfe on pur-pofe : He no fboner faw me, than he expref-fed liis furprize how I durft loiter away my time. I told liim, that I neither had received money for my journey, nor were any horfes to be found in TaverhofF.
This was indeed, as intended, to him a reproof, but in a fliort time I had both, and, recom mending myfelf to the guidance of heaven, inftandy let out, on the i oth of December, accompanied with my old fellow-traveller, Stephen, and took the following route, for which I paid per verfl: as formerly.
To Ulinan verfts 15, to Skorits 60, to Skeftacoff 35, to Pauloffky 37, to Kaftikin 20, to Mamonill 22, to Brutchock 22, to Matulhka Loch 22, to Kazanka 22, to Mofs-hack 38, to Molan 22, to Buftikonaften 23, to Ulkadvid 21, to Ufkapcr 12, to Aftratfka-ja 27, to Wifemadits 12, to Kafpopin 20, to Klidika 17, to Perikapfka 50, to Grigoryof-fka 24, to Serothie 10, to Beiafke 32, to Gor lobhilke 45, to Petifbe 35, to Cliirie 33, to Kizni Chirie 10, to Kakeiglikina iq, to Ifau-loif 19, to Zimalikie 7, to Kiriman 17, to Na-galkin 17, to Kurman 13, to Ughain 13, to Koitikin 13, to Tcrnosikoi 9, to llomanoffkoi
24, to Kirgala 8, to Kamufhink 6, to Buftri-aike io, to Karagla 3, to Michaelkom 14, to Nifni Mic'haelkom 3, to Kagalak 18, to Vedernik 7, to Babbe 4, to Zoloto 10, to Kotehatova ro. Thus I arrived at Koteha-tova, on the 2 3d of December, by the route Mr Carrabine pointed out, being in all above 030 verfts. Tliis long journey I accompliftied in thirteen days and nights, for when the villages were not far diftant, I had frelli horfes at every village, whereas in Ruftia one can have them only at Earns, but the Coffacks bear all burdens equally.
I {hall now take notice of a lew incidents which bcfel me on the road. Firft, I left Taverhoff in no good humour, by which means I had forgot to lay in a good ftore of frelh meat. Bread I had enough : Betwixt Ufman and Skorits I met with nothing to buy ; but near Skorits, as Stephen was up* 6n the ramble, we efpied at a poft-hoiife, a foldier and poft-boy bringing betwixt them a very large pike on a pole; and, afking the value, they required three copeaks, which was very readily agreed to.
Tliis good fortune was very agreeable, and would have been fo, had they a Iked three (hillings. We were told, that at Pauloffky, the Emprefs had another grand fabrick for all forts of fmall arms. At tliis place we provided ourfelves with provifions, and, without lofs of time, fet out, meeting with nothing
remarkable,
remarkable, till near to Molliack, Stephen af-liired me that a kind of heath fowl, who had perched upon trees at no great diftance, were deaf, and excellent food, and that if I could get near enough, without being perceived, I might kill fome. Accordingly I got beliind a large tree, at no great diftance from them, and killed three,which, when falling, I obferved the reft to look at ; but at laft, whether they perceived me or not, they flew away ; however, thefe three were excellent food. The Ruffians call thefe fowls gluchoi teterks, or deaf, to diftinguilli them from another kind which hear well, and never perch on trees. At Mo-lan I obferved the ftreets were narrow, and 1 dclired the niagiftratcs, who are the moft ho-fpitable people in the world, that I might get a fafe place to put my fledges in, for fear of thieves. At this they laughed heartily, and allured me I was now in the Ukraine amongft the Dons Coftacks.
In Ruflia, they laid, there were thieves; but it was fcarcely ever heard that any thing-was ftolen by the Coftacks, for that thieves among them were inftantly punifhed with death.
C H A P.
CHAP. XXXV.
A Continuation of the fame, and fume Account of the Cojfack Government,
T Begged they would give me fome fhort in--■- formation about their government,and they complied with my delire in the following manner: They, laid they, were fo far fubject to the laws of Ruffia, as to oblige thcmfclves to allift the Imperial army with a certain number of troops, when required : That they, being borderers with the Crim Tartars and Turks, were natural foldiers :   That therefore they were under the protection of the Emprefs, but had their own Prince called Hetman Velike; That the Hetman was ordinarily appointed by the Emprefs, chofen from amongft them : That they made laws for thcmfclves, providing they were not repugnant to, nor dallied with thofe of the Empire :; That every citizen thro* the whole Ukraine, above 21 years of age, had a vote in every thing done; and coniequently could not be ignorant of the laws which they aflented to.   They faid, that when the army refided amongft them, it was not at all times agreeable, if not commanded by j ndieious men; that the only rcdrefs they had, was to complain to their Hetman, who represented their, complaints to St Peterfburgh ; and that moft
commonly
commonly they got recirefs. I indeed found aftensfrards, that the army was afraid of complaints from them. They told me of a theft ot cattle wliich had been committed in a certain village by fome Kalmucks, who immediately fled to die deiart: That, without delay, die villagers gave their next neighbours notice, and thefe to others, &c. &c. fo that hi little more than 24 hours the* whole Ukraine was in motion, and every village, or little city, lent out a party of horfemen to fcour die defarts. In lliort the thieves were taken, with the horfes they had ftolen, and immediately conducted to the village where the theft was committed. The magiflrates of that village convcened the inhabitants, who encircled the town-clerk, priefl and thieves hi the market-place, under the canopy of heaven, and, after they had all heard what was allcdged a-gainft them, and the defences of the thieves, the magiflrates ordered the fame to be read by the writer, and required the Coffacks to determine, Whether guilty or not ? wliich is done by putting on, or off then* caps, and the majority carries it j (the Coflacks never move their caps to one another.) It fell out that the Kalmucks were found guilty by a great majority. The prielts then recommended to the thieves to make their peace with God, for they were inflantly to be put to death. They were immediately carried in boats into the middle of die river Don, their arms pinioned,
T and
and a parcel of land, tied up in a cloath, put about their necks to link diem. Then, widiout further ceremony, they were thrown out of the boat. Their Lord offered to pay, any thing reafonable to lave them, but the Colfacks were inexorable ; notwithstanding, he tlireatcned to complain to the Emprcls, which indeed he did, but to little effect • for he was ordered to allow none of his men to fojourn in the Ukraine. They laid their magiflrates continued in office only one year ; and that a poor man, if fenfible and upright, had the fame chance to be preferred as a rich one. It feems riches have no great weight, and are in no great eftimation there ; and indeed I never law a beggar among them.
They have great plenty of provifions, and confequendy are under no temptation to fteal. I am convinced, that I did not pay a fixpence value for all the provilion I had need of tor me and my men, in travelling dirough their country ; tor, if I flayed any time, their magiflrates, for the honour of their town, ufed to lend me fowls and fit It, and a bottle of f pints, which Stephen loved well ; as alio fome ale or mead : And, when diey underflood my profellion, the fick afked my advice, for wliich they commonly lent fowls of all kinds, which I have often refilled, becaufe I could not dif-pofe of them. The Colfacks are dreffed in long tog# like the Ruffians, and the women differ from the Ruffian women only in tliis,
that
that they wear 011 their heads a cap, with a front (landing up about a foot above their heads, in form of a crefcent, either embelliflied with ducats of gold, pearl, or beads, or all three formed together, according to their different fancies.
Rich people may have better houfes than others, with a piece of ground inclofed for their ufe and conveniency, but the defart is free to them all alike ; confequendy a poor man, if he can purchafe a cow and ewe, may have plenty before he turns old. They neither will make a prefent of, nor fell any young creature, faying, that it is contrary to reafon to think, for as great a love as the Supreme Being may have for man, that his defign was, that man fliould kill young creatures at pica-lure, as it feemed in fome degree to be a contradiction to the very defign of the creation ; and that none but crazy foolifh people, and fuch as prefer pampering their bellies to every rcafonable thought, can think otherwiie.
They are all Chriilians of the Greek perfiia-fion ; but by the wars in Sweden, Poland, Turky, and Perlia, they are not near fo fu-perllitious as the common Ruffians ; and, al-tho' they have a great regard ibr their priefls, they will yet puniih them, when guilty of crimes, as well as other men. Every man. who comes into their country to relide a-mong diem, is made a denizon, and inflant-ly has all the immunities and privileges of a
CoiTack.
Coffack, They will give to Grangers all titles due to their rank in the world, but they think 110 title more honourable than to be called Cofllick, meaning by that their freedom and honour in war, and honcfty to every perfon, except enemies; nor can it be faid that they are generous enemies, for if they cannot take prifonersealily,they murder them without any helitation, alledging that it is the fortune of war, and that their enemies clo juft the fame to them ; but I have conveiied with fome. Swedes and their offspring, who feemed well enough fatisfied with their fortune, nor had they the lead clefire to return into their own country.
G H A P. XXXVI.
A continuation of the fame.
Icontinued to travel night and day through the above mentioned villages, which, after we palfed Serotine, are all furrounded with a fojfa and rampart, having ordinarily two gates and fome cannon, and indeed they have great rcafon to do fo, as will be immediately feen. The Don abounds with many excellent fifh, as flurgeons, flirlets, &c. and there is great plenty of game on its banks, wliich are covered with almoft continued forcfls. The beautiful large grey eagle loves tliis land of libers'*
ty, and indeed, by liis fearlefs freedom, made me think he was a real native. I wanted to try what execution a ball would make upon two of them walking at fome diftance, but the Coftacks prevented me, faying, that they were not afraid of man, and that they fome*-times did inifchief: That they made very free with dieir geefe and lambs, and were known to fly away with the linaller flieep.
Belafke is diftant from Gobulinfke 45 verfts. Betwixt thefe towns there are two roads, vone upon the banks of the Don, the other through the defart. My Colfacks told me of diem, and laid the one through the del art was every way better, and that the other by the Don was through woods, and fometimes infeft-ed by the Kalmucks, very uneven, and the longeft of the two : That the road through the defart was free of all incumbrances whatfoever ; and that> at about 2 5 verfts diftance, there was a folitary mill, where we could re-frefli our ourfelves and feed our horics. It is eafy to imagine that I refolved to go by the defart, efpccially as it was in the night-time, which deprived me of amufing myfelf with the varieties and beauties of the country.
We therefore proceeded with good horfes, arrived at the mill about ten o'clock at ni^ht. and no fooner had we Hopped, than five ftutc-ly clever young men came out, made us heartily welcome, and defired we would walk in, where there was a good fire, of wliich we
were
were very glad.   They did not flop here, but offered us a glafs of fpirits, thereafter mead, and ale as much as we pleafed, at which my truffy Stephen rejoiced, and took two or three powerful pulls, wliich would have loon flupi-fied liim, had I not ordered him to retire. A litde after this, one of my Colfacks came into the mill, and, unperceived by the millers, gave a fign to fpeak with me.   I went to the door, pretending fome neceflary bufinefs ; but was furprifed to hear the Coffack fay, " Sir, take care of yourfclf and us, keep company with the millers no longer ; fome officers have lately been loft here, rior could they hitherto ever be heard of." Upon tliis information, I defired the Coffack to keep liimfelf and his comerades in good order, and that I would, without lofs of time, retire, as if I was to take a fleep, defiling him to fend Stephen to me; for as yet, though I had learned many vocables* fincc I left St Peterfburgh, I could not keep up converfation, nor, in fuch an intricate affair, was fure but they, if villains, as I fufpe&ed they were, might find out my defign.
When Stephen came, I begged to know if I could have a warm place or room to retire to, to take two or three hours fleep. They feemed extremely glad of this, told me that they had fome zemlenkes"*, and that I fhould
have
* A zeralenke is a room well lined with timber, and covered
have the bed. Accordingly they {hewed me where I was to go. I ordered my bed and arms to be taken out of the waggon before them, and carried to the zcmlenke, deliring Stephen to tell the millers, that a little fleep ferved me, and that none might difturb me for two. or three hours, admonifhing them at fame time, that, as we were flrangers, if we were unexpectedly difturbed, they would have themfelves to blame if they were hurt, becaufe, after fuch admonition, we would un-> doubtediy fire upon them.
Accordingly, I and old Stephen had one of thefe zemlenkes, and the Colfacks another, the millers retirinp- into the mill. When the mill-doors were fhut, the Colfacks, with all expedition, yoked their horfes, my foldier and I put the things into the waggon, and inflant-ly drove off. Our way lying very near the mill-door, the noife wliich the horfes and fledge,; made alarmed the millers, who came altogether in great halle to the mill-door, and, though their defign was not known, yet we gueffed at it. The foldiers and Colfacks ordered them to remain where they were, if they valued their lives. They took our advice, and were in the right, for every one of us were ready to fire upon them. When" w£ had got out of danger, the Colfacks told me,
that
"vercd with the fame under ground. They are very warm, :md not to be known but by a fundi door, and an opening on the ton for a window.
that two or three officers, convoyed in the lame Way I was, let out by this mill, and ne< ver were heard of more*
That the neighbouring Colfacks had interrogated the millers, who denied their having ever had any knowledge about them: That an order, by the authority of the Court of St Peterfburgh from the Hetman, was that day received by the magiftrates of Bclafke, commanding them to make Uriel: enquiry into the conduct of thefe millers ; and laffly, as the millers were not of that country, confequendy not well known, it wras fufpected they were the murderers of thefe officers and their convoy. They faid, that next day they would be feized, and examined feparately ; and that this was the reafon, why they had taken fuch care of themfelves and me. I never had an opportunity thereafter, to learn any thing further about them.
Thus I continued my journey, till I arrived at Romanoffkoi, where the Colfacks, more fcrupulous than their brethren, would not open the gate, though in the day-time, till they had carefully examined my paffport. At this gate two cannon were charged, and a number of men in arms, writh matches burning, ready to difcharge the cannon. I was directed to go to the town-houfe where the Hetmans or magiflrates waited for me (for every town in the Ukraine has a town-houfe, where all public bufinefs is tranlactcd, wliich
is
is a good lodging for all travellers who have no right to regular quarters on the citizens. It is a large room, with feats and tables, and, in the fevereft froils, always kept warm by the ipfauls,or town-officers.) When I arrived,they welcomed me, and produced bread and fait, which is ufual, as I faid before, for the honour of their town. They alfured me, that yefter-day a body of at lead 6000 Turkilh and Tartarian horfe had left their town, after a fmart liege of 48 hours : That within the town there were not at prefent above 20 young men able to Hand on ^the walls: That their townfmen, in company with other Colfacks, to the number of about feven or 8000 were in the Cuban Tartary, making depredations among them ; but that an enlign had arrived a few hours before me with fome maials and 30 or 40,000 rubles for the troops in Albph, and that he was determined to flay there till he could proceed with fafety. They advifed me alio to remain with them, faying, that the government would juflify fuch a refolution in fo dangerous times, and that they would think dicmfelves happy in having one of my profelfion with medicines, inftruments, &c. in cafe of another affault, which they were in no fmall dread of. To which I anfwered, that it might appear veiy reafonablc to them, but I obferved it in a veiy different view : That I had fworn to evite no perfonal danger, when her Majcffv's fervice demand-
U   ' ed
ed my* attendance: That they had juft now feen the outlines of my orders, commanding me to travel day and niglit, till I had joined my commander : And finally, that, as it was agreeable to the regulations and cunmon feufe, 1 would flay that night, but next morning, God willing, I would proceed: That if I Ihould happen to be unfortunate, no perfon would be to blame but thofe who fent me. Therefore I delired that men and horfes might be ready by day-light to go with me, together writh as many men as they mould think neceflary for my fafety. They anfwered, that, from what diey had faid, I could eaiily fee that they had no fuilicient guard to fend againll 6000 enemies, but that I fliould have the lame number of men and hories granted me, which brought me to this place, and alfo a fenlible refolute man as a convoy, and advifed me to keep a good lookout.
Thus having parted in friendfliip, I made my addrcfles to the enfign, to encourage liim to go with me. Ke laid, that he had a valuable truft, and only 20 recruits, who had never feen fire; therefore he could put but very little trull in them, and was detennined to report this iituation to his liiperiors in Afoph, and patiently wait their orders. My hoflefs„ a young Swede, told me, that flie had mounted the wails alinolc the whole time the enemy was beiore them :  That fhe believed many
had
had been killed, for that they made three or four defperate affaults, but could not mailer the rampart ; and at each time the old men, 'who played the cannon, had galled them ex-cedively ; and that, from the walls, die had feen them dragging off their dead men with hooks, which they carry with them, in order to conceal the number of their dead ; and that I could fee many of their dead a.id -wounded horfes about the town. She faid, there were but few of their folk hurt, became they never appeared unlefs the enemy was at a diftance, or juft at the wails, when they never failed to give them a well-marked falute; immediately thereafter they jumped down, and charged, whilfl the young men with fome women remained, left they had entered the town. She faid much mote to the fame pur-pofe, widi which I lhall not trouble the reader.
We fet out next morning early, with great fecrecy, and all the precaution we could, our guide riding a fhcrt way before us. We palled Kirgola iinoaking in feme parts, as alfo Kainuihink, and arrived at Bu'lriafke, a large village iinoaking in many places, but not a houie (binding. We obferved at a fmall diftance fome ruinous houfes, Where the inhabitants ufed to keep cattle. Thither we went, and having fed our horfes, and taken fome refreshment to ourfelves, fit out again. Having paired Kargala, with oi^ly one houfe
ftanding
156      V O Y A G E S and
{landing, in the door of which was a woman, who gave us her beft wifhes, and defired us to take great care that we did not meet wjtth the enemy in the defart- The fun was let, and we ftill had 14 verfts to go ; however, it was our fortune that the defart was well covered wjth fnow, and the froft veiy fevere.
"We rode on at an ordinary trot tor about ten verfts, when our guide returning, told us, that ibme men were upon the road; we con-fulted, but for many good reafons drove foi> ward, having new-primed our anns. As we approached the place where they had been, I obferved many fmall lights flying up in the air to an immenfe height; upon enquiry, the Coftacks told me, that thefe were fignals to their comeradcs., to let them know that we were on the road, and prefently we obferved at a fmall diftance fix men, three on each fide of the road. I thought that they were within gimfhot, but the Coflacks advifed us not to fire at them, for fear of alarming their companions ; whereupon, we drove as faft as the horfes were able to gallop. We at laft arrived on the top of a high mountain, lefs than half a mile from Michaelkom, in all fafety.
The people in that town having been a* larmed, only kept us at the port for fome time, till they were allured we were friends;, -and the next day we reached Kotchatoff, on the 23d of December.
After
After deducting the time I ipent at Tula and Taverhoff, I was only 34 clays in travelling from St Peterfburgh to Kotchatoff, which amounts to 2103 verfls, akhough heavy loaded, wliich wras upwards of 64 verfls per day. I can give no right defcripticn of this country, as it was all covered over with fnow; but was told, that it was very fruitful, and certainly, in time of peace, it is an agreeable country. It is diflant about 30 Englifh miles north from Afoph. Kotchatoff is in 47 der grees 8 minutes north latitude, and in 60 degrees eafl longitude, diflant from Taverhoff, by the road on the Don, 930 verfls. It is but a fmall village. The Prince had three barks, with fome cannon, ammunition, and materials for cutting of wood to build veffels for navigating the Palus Moeotis a-gainfl the Turks; but of this I fhall fay more hereafter. Upon vifiting the places on the Don, none was found fo proper as die Ico-rits ; wherefore, we only remained after my arrival in Kotchatoff till the 5di of January '738.
However, before I proceed, in my return, I mufl again acquaint the reader, that about that time, or very foon after our departure, the Coflacks, who had been employed in Cuban, returned, after having deflroyed that o-pen country, and carried off much plunder, many prifoners, flocks, and cattle. It feems the Tiirjdfh Tartars hovered about, and I believe
Jieve were the fame who put us in a fright, when on our return. The Coflacks, as I £rid, returning fiuihed with victory, and loaded with plunder, (no doubt had notice with what barbarity the Tartars had afted upon the Don) met them in die woods not far from the ruins of the burnt villages. They took their meafures fo well, and hemmed them in fo effectually, that they cut 4000 of them in pieces, and recovered all their own cattle, and living Coflacks, with all the other valuable things in their pofle(fion.
The CofTacks were fo much enraged at the unheard of cruelty, that the Turks had ex*-^relied upon the Coflack prifoners, that they would neidier let die dead bodies be buried, nor throw them into the Don, but eaft them into two heaps, 2000 to each, The armies, fleet, and Coflacks through the whole Ukraine paid dearly for tliis; for as the hot weather came on, die dead bodies putrifled ; and I was told by fome officers, who pafTed by them, that djey were obliged to make a circuit of about fix miles diftance, and yet the fmell was moft: offenfive: In fhort, the plague this fummer 1738, raged moft dreadfully, and if it did not take its rife altogether, from thefe heaps of dead, certainly it was increafed by them.
CHAP.
CHAP. XXXVIL Our return to Taverhoff by the river Don.
HAVING, as I faid, received orders from the admiralty to return to TaverhofF, we let out from Kotchatoff, (leaving a fmall guard for the barks and implements of war, with orders to proceed for Afoph with the firft: thaw) on the 5th January 1738, by an* other road much nearer than by the Don. As we were fometimes obliged, notwitliftand-ing the feverity of the froft, to take up our lodgings in woods, under the canopy of heaven alone ; I fhall only mention a few of the more remarkable towns on the banks of the Don and Ofkol, till we again arrived at Rib-na upon the river Soina, almoft where its flreams join the Don. All thefe rivers empty themfelves into the Don.
In fo doing, I fhall obferve the fame 6f-» der I have hitherto done. From Kotchatoff to Kundrutze town on the Don, are 53 verfts, to Burftra 16, to Kamennoi 86, to. Gun-1 droffke 45, to Lugan 84, to Krafnaianfke 50, to Jamepol 61, to Kareoff, BorhTof on the Ofkol 47, to Senkoff 56, to Afnofka 10, to Kamenka 47, to Valviki 36, to Ob-zunfke on the Soina 84, to Ribna t8, to Chovorotak on die Don 50, to TaverhofF 53.
By
By this road, we meafured 776 verfls betwixt Kotchatoff and Taverhoff, fo that it meauircs lefs than the road on the Don by 156 verfls.
It is proper, however, to obferve that the Don and Ofkol rivers run through the very middle of Little Tartary; that though the towns are generally pretty well fortified, and have numerous inhabitants, yet the diflances betwixt them are veiy great, .quite uninhabited, and either defart, or full of great woods; for which reafons, it is much expo fed in time of war, to the depredations of flying parties of Crim Tartars, who commonly lie in wait upon the fide of the woods, ready to fall upon paflengers, when but few in number.
Our commander, Prince Gallitzin having every thing in readinefs, let out from Kotchatoff about four o'clock in the morning, with great fccrecy; for the enemy never could learn what was the number of men he commanded: and as he caufed fire a morn^ ing and an evening gun, as Vice Admiral and Ccnator, they imagined his command muft have been veiy confiderable. He like-wife took the precaution of keeping a very Uriel: guard about the town with great judgment.
He allowed none, whether foldiers, failors, or inhabitants, to go out of the town under pain of death.   But in truth, it was quite
the
the contrary, for it is faid, and he did not hefitate to fay fo alfo, diat the Lords of the Admiralty planned out, and fent him this route, oil purpofe that he might have been cut off.
His eldeft brother, Prince Demitry, a Senator, one of the wifett men at the helm of affairs, was, in the year 1736, for fpeaking his mind too freely, lliut tip during the remaining part of his lire in the caftle of Sluf-felburgh, and all die Golitzin family were banifhed, fome of them degraded: To which the Eniprefs Artne, the daughter of Ivan or John, chearfully acceded : For the Golitzins are blood relations of Peter the Great, and had it not been for them, and the Narifhkins, die Princeis Sophy would have murdered Peter*.
Our Commander had been for many years before, grand-trealllrer to the admiralty: It feems formerly, When the lords of the admiralty happened to be in want of money, they made free to borrow from the ti eaiurer": But,. during the whole time of Prhice Golitzin's management, they never could get a farthing ; confequendy, they Were glad to be rid of him. Thefe are faid to be the reaibns that they ordered him upon the Don, in fuch perilous times, with a command not exceeding 200 officers and fervants included: Add to tliis, that he was ordered from St Peterfburgh the fame night, on which liis brother was ar-
X retted,
reded, nor could he have one day allowed him to put his affairs hi order, and upon lib leaving St Peterfburgh, the admiral'y was, during four months, clolcly employed in examining his books, to fee if they could pcf-fibly find any fault, tliat they might get his life and eltate. All thefe fchemes failing, and people talking with great freedom of their barbarous uflige of the Prince, and reports having been long received in St Peterfburgh from the officers, and an engineer under the Prince's command, that no place was found more convenient to build finall vef-fels than icorits, diflant about 70 verfls from TaverhofF, nearer Azoph : Accordingly, he was at laft ordered to return as 1 have laid.
His enemies not doubting, and feeing all their fchemes had proved abortive, but ibme blunder would happen to him in die confu-flon of a command of about 3000 fbldiers and failors, and 30,000 peafants.
We arrived at Kundritze town on the Don» about mid-day. It was here I had die firft opportunity of feeing with what refpeci thefe people received Ruffian grandees, and truly, I mufl fay, that it was next to adoration : I was informed however, that the Coflacks e-fleemcd the Golitzin family preferable tq any in the whole Empire, and were well acquainted with the cloud wliich hovered over jt.   It is fomething remakable tliat through
all
all Little Tartary, they paid as great refpe<3 to this good, old, noble general, as if he had had the power of life and death. They brought Mm many prefents, but he frankly told them, that as he ftood in need of no prefents, he confequendy wTould accept *>f npne, but would not refuie fome victuals ; becaufe he knew they would not permit him to buy, aud he could get theni no other way, and indeed, his fledges were loaded with provifions, diat he might ft and in no need by the way.~ Not fadsfied with having regaled the Prince and his officers plentifully, they did not forget liis men, whereby, that very evening, I was involved in a good deal of trouble, attended with the molt exquifite anxiety.
At our arrival, the Coflacks fent off fome of their men armed, to give the next town notice of the Prince's arrival, and to warn them to have a fufficient number of fiefh horfes ready upon his arrival, that he might not be hindered in the leaft to proceed with all the expedition he pica!ed ; Accordingly, having refrefhed ourfelves about two hours, We fet out betwixt two and three of the clock P. M, and had fcarcely reached a mile till we were alarmed with ah irregular firing of cannon at the laft: town. Some of our convoy, (for they fent as many armed Colfacks, as they could fpare, from one town to the
next,
next, and this practice they continued thro* our route, till we arrived at TaverhofF) begged leave of the Prince, to return to defend their own town, not doubdng that the Tartars had made an attack upon it.
The Prince very readily allowed as many to go as pleafed, but the greater part flaid with us. We had proceeded about two verfls after this, mending our pace for fear of the Tartars, when our adjutant came to me, and told me that one of the medicine chefls with the men belonging to it were not come forward, and that if it was loir, I would be charged with it. J not knowing at this time, the truth of his aflertion, returned accordingly, my iriate and Mr Bowman, whole chelt it properly was, accompanied me, tho* I entreated him to flay by the command, al-ledging that it was quite ncedlefs for us both to run the rifque of being either killed, or taken prisoners by thefe barbarians : But he was as much afraid of loling the medicines as I was, and indeed it was more his charge, as I had not received them from him. We had not drove back two verfls, when a Coffack on horfeback dif covered the people we wanted, in a fmall valley, a little way from the right road. It feems, they had been 'making too free with their bottle, while in Kundrutze, and being quite flupid with liquor, they loll their road, and with all the ti^quillity imaginable, had lain down on
the
T R A V EL s. 165
the fnow and fell faft afleep, notwlthftanding die great froft, and noife the cannon made hard by them.
Mr Bowman very foon brought them to their fenfes with a fevere whipping, and ordered them to drive on before us, as faft as the horfes could gallop.   We did not over-take the Prince till we arrived at Buiftra : The Coflacks who had returned to Kundratze o-r vertook us, and told that all was well in their town ; that the magiflrates having neglected to pay their compliments to the Prince with their cannon, at liis arrival in their town, they thought it their duty to do fuch a piece of neceflary ceremony at his departure; and that this was the caufe of cur alarm.   It was a cuftom, and I believe a law, tliat when any flag or general officer approached any cities or towns of note, which had cannon mounted, to fklute him with more or lefs cannon, according to liis rank in the army or fleet; but I do not believe the Coflacks were fubjecled to this, becaufe they bought ail then* own ammunition ; whereas in Ruffia, the powder and all other ammunition belongs to the Emprefs.  I was informed that when the Prince received tliis information, that he fent orders to all the towns through which he was to pafs, to keep their powder for the fafety of their towns, acquainting them, that the ceremony was very clif agreeable to him, and not only unncceflary and
expeniive
16*4"     VOYAGES and
expermVe to them; but expofed them in time of war to the danger of want of powder, when drey might have much more occa-fion for it: Efpecially, as he was well informed that pardes of the enemy were hovering about, who would be glad to find them unprepared. After this, nothing uncommon happened till we arrived at Gundrofslce; Be. twixt this laft town and Lugan are computed 84 verfts; confequendy no horfes could carry us through, without reft and food. About 30 verfts diflant from Gundrofske is a fmall village, where we halted to refrefh ourfel* ves and cattle in the day time, After we had given our horfes two or three hours feeding, we fet out in the afternoon, but before We had travelled 20 verfts, night came on, and we were flill forced to proceed 20 verfts further, till we arrived in a very great wood, where we had fires made in many places, to get cur food warmed, and alfo, as it was extreme hard froft, to foften the air. The horfes which "were yoked before the medicines, fee. were quite tired, fo that I arrived later than any of our men.
At our arrival, my appetite was very keen, but I had nothing to eat, except a piece of very good roafted beef frozen quite hard, my bread was in the fame condition. Stephen, my only help-mate, and I, with no fmall trouble thawed our victuals before the fire, then fcraped off a little and eat it, «as I
was
was very tired, I defired Stephen to bring my bed, and lay it down upon the fnow, upon which, I ffretched myfelf a fhort while, with my feet to the fire, and left Stephen to heat, fcrape, and eat as much as he pleafed.
The Prince, when obliged to take up liis abode in the fields, trufted none of his officers, but was wont to go round his men, and fee that the centinels were alert, and the reft in good order.   As he was thus employed, he found me on my bed, and Stephen very bufy eating.   He afked if I was well ? I in-ftantly role, but Stephen told him every diing which had happened; he took me by the hand, and defired me to go with him, I obeyed, we went together to another fire, where his officers were bufy eating fome exceeding good hfii foup very warm.   He ordered to give me a fpeon, wliich I exercifed well, and got alfo a few glalTes cf excellent wine.   He lpoke to me frequently : But I believe he could only guefs at my anfwers; fo much kindnefs I could obierve, fretted not a little his adjutant, and indeed, as he ufed too great freedom with die Prince, I thought he laid that probably I would not in time deferve fo much kindnefs, at which I am certain the Prince was very angry. Having eat and drunk heartily, I paid my compliments to the Prince, and his officers, except the adjutant, of whom I have ever retained a bad oninion.
• m Before
*
Before day-light, the whole command was in motion. My people, having been very tired the night before, were not fo foon ready as the others, which was lucky for the Prince. It feems the Coflacks upon watch had given informadon, that, as they heard a noife among the trees, they iufpe&ed the ene-: my had diicovered us. This report focn fpread, and he was belt off who could get fooneft away. Our horfes, as I faid before, were heavy loaded, and probably not fo good as the reft; wherefore, we were obliged to. march on flowly. We had not drove many verfts from the wood, when we obferved a cheft, which, though net large, I fufpecled might contain the Prince's plate, on account of its weight.   Day now began to appear.
We travelled on till we were within three or four verfts of Liegon, the country free of woods, and the fun Aiming bright, when our heroic adjutant, Balotnicoff, (for that was his name,) appeared with a guard of four fbldiers, and, with a loud voice, and a very haughty ah*, afked If we had feen a cheft ? Stephen anfwered in the affirmative, and, pointing, told him, it was lying a-crofs my fledge, and laid, that I would carry it to the Prince. Balotnicoff put on fuch airs, that I refolved to let him know that I was determined not to bear his impertinence : But he, miftaking the gentle anlwers I gave him by my foldier, as if caufed dirough fear of him, alighted from
his
TRAVELS !6Q
his horfe, came forward with his foldiers: to take the che'ife per three. Upon which, I took up a carrabine which lay by me, laid it on my knee, as if ready for any thing, and ordered my men to drive on. The gallant Ba-lotivcoffand his ibidlers mounted their horles^. and rode off, threatening me no doubt, lri Stent; we arrived but a litde after liim, when I was conduced with the cheit to the Prince. A aoife ioQ/i eniued. I deiired Stephen to inform the Prince, tliat I tbund tiic cneft, and fulpecbd it was liis iiiver plate: That, as. I was a itraager, had I parted with it, and if any tiling had been lofe, I might have moft in* nocently fuffered in character at leaf! : "1 hat what was in it I knew not, but was certain nodihigwaslaft finceit was in my poifeilion. I faid, (tor the adjutant had been complaining grievQciiy, as if 1 had threatened to fhoot liim,) that it was very true I had laid my carrabine on my knee, the manner in which 1 frequently travelled, but did not threaten him, thof I was uncertain what might have happened, had he offered force : Tliat I was determined to be as obliging to ail the off cers, and all men, as lay in my power : That I never would defgnr edly affront or difoblige any of them ; but, at fame time, I was every whit as unw'iling* to take affronts : I bat, by my inflrudions from the College of Medicine, I was ordered to be under his Excellency's order:: ; and that I fliould receive orders from no other, uniefs o-
Y therways
thenvays directed by the Medi cine Chancery. At this the Prince ibemed very well plea-led.
The tables were turned. BalotnicofF imagined that I would be at once diigraced ; but this day began a mutual kindnefs betwixt this good Prince and me, wliich continued ever alter. He happened to alk me, How I came fo foon to be acquainted with Ruilian vocables I for, tho' I could not keep up converia-tion in the Ruilian language, I had learned many vocables. 1 told him, and produced a vocabulary in Latin and Ruis; at this he exprefc fed great fatisfaction in Lathi; but after this, even after I had made great progrefs in under-Handing and promptly fpeaking the Ruilian language, he fpoke with me leldom in any other language than Latin.
He now gave me, net only a general invitation to his table, but inforced it as my duty, during the reft: of our journey to Taverhoff, and ordered me always to fit near himfelf for the conveniency of diicourfb. This was a terrible blow to BalotnicofF. I thought he would have burft with infignificant malice. By this means the Ptince came to be made acquainted with Captain Carrabine's dilpute, and his reafons for fending me, fo much contrary to common fenfe, and the intereft of the lick in Taverhoff, as Mr Burman was unable to attend them.
After
After this I keenly cultivated the love of all the officers, except Balotnicoff, whom I avowedly defpiied ; and indeed, he at laff was ridiculed and delphed by the whole command. He was a gentleman by birth, but poor, had no education, and therefore was made a cooper to the fleet by Peter the Great. H*s cafe had been,two years by paft,repreiented to die Prince, who, by his intereft, got him made a midfhipman, which is of equal rank to lieutenant in the army.
We now travelled on, without any thing remarkable happening, till we arrived at Sen-koff on the river Alkol. 1 he weather here had been mild, and during the winter but little fnow, which, by the influence of the fun, was faft melting, fo that in many places there was none. We here propos'd to fell cur fledges, and take to carts j but the CofTacks would give nothing for them worth our acceptance. rl hey alfo informed us, that, further on, we would have veiy deep fnow. Upon this the Prince ordered us to lafh our fledges upon carts, which the Coftacks procured, with an additional number of horfes. Thus equipped, we marched on, not fo much afraid of the Tartars as formerly.
We for many miles palled over little hills and large vallics. After rcfrefhing curfelves and horfes at a wood in the night-time,' we proceeded, and in the morning went up by a veiy eaiy afcent of fome verfts, a riling
ground,
ground, frerh the top of which We d;icovcr-ed, at about four or five verUs diftance, the -beautiful town called Kamenka, .foliated in the mid lie of a very cKteniive plain, upon the banks of the Afkol; the dticent from this height was very fleep. The Prince was foro-Snoft, bur engineer immediately before me, and three writers in a fledge mounted on a cart, were a considerable "Way behind me. Ve had proceeded but a little way down the hill, when I was alarmed with an cxceilive ncife «from the wr't.-rs cart. Looking about, I faw that their boiie had taken fright, and was galloping dure (ly upon me. My driver could but only clear the way, when they paifed my wheels veiy near, and, their driver having fallen from his feat, their horfe overturned the engineer's cart and horfe, whereby it was all broke to pieces.
It affecled me much to fee at once three •writers and our engineer lying motionkfs on tht ground, I went to them, and, upon enquiry, found that they were only extremely "frightened ; but the engineer lay Hill en the ground like another Hercules, as he was a remarkably big man. He could not fpeak, but groaned. I cauied Mr Bowman bleed him inftantly, put him into my cart, and drove *>n to Kamenka, where every thing was done for his recovery, agreeable to the ait of imagery. Ke recovered very well, nor did lie fever forget my care, and my readily yielding
my
my cart to him, gained me good will from the •whole command : And the good Prince returned me thanks publicly, for what I would* in doe like circumftances, have done to my enemy, as I told diem.
We met with nothing worth relating after this, till we arrived in Taverhoff, but I muft .acquaint the reader, tliat the city of Ribna is the moft beautiful I law in the Ukraine. It is large, and has fix or feven churches. The Jaft day of our travels was a continued thaw, which obliged me to walk on foot more than to verfts. At laft, about eight o'clock at night, I arrived on the 15th of January, har ving travelled 77^ verfts in ten days.
CHAP. XXXVIII.
What happened after my Arrival in Taver-bojf, &c.
NOT being able to get lodgings, though-fatigued and wet, I went to the Prince, with whom were many officers, and my old acquaintance Captain Carcahine among the reft
The Prince no fooner faw me, than, having been informed of the caufe of my dc-lay, he ordered Carrabine to give me a lodging with Mr Burman the furgeon ; and, at fame tune, made enquiry at him about the rea-
fon
fon of fending me to Kotchatoff, when he was well affured, that lie (the Prince) was foon to return to Taverhoff; How he durft demand medicines, which he knew were deliined for another command ? fee. In fhort, the Prince fpoke a long while concerning his undue attention to the Emprefs's intereft, and, conic-quently, his acting contrary to the Imperial mandate; his defign to miflcad a ftranger, and laflly, his want of humanity, in fending a young man, who knew nothing of the roads, and could not fpeak die language, threatening to take his foldier from him, who was granted by the admiralty, into a country, not only bordering on, but daily ikirmifhing, with the enemy.
He alfo oblerved, that Captain Carrabine was an old officer, coniequently the more culpable, and that, in fhort, he did not know how he could difpenfe with palfing unnoticed fiich very grofs faults. Here he ended his difcourfe, and, immediately after, a piece of Ruilian humiliation began, wliich I had never feen before. The poor captain fell on his knees, confefTed that all was true that the Prince had faid, put him in mind diat he was a gentleman, and laflly, begged, for Chrift3s fake, that he would pardon him this time, ai-furing him, that he never would again give caufe for the like reproof. Thus Carrabine's high fpirit was brought low, to the moft pitiful degree.
The
The Ruffians are ftrongly attached to their religion and cuftoms. If a crime is any way pardonable, the delinquent will fcarcely mils the anfwer of his fupplication, if he afks it for the fake of Chrift, St Nicolas, the Emperor, or Emprefs. Prince Golitzin could not Hand out againft this iiibmiflive way of alk-ing, and his fake for whom he afked it. He did not let him remain long on his knees, but took him up, embraced, and pardoned him fincerely, I believe, what he had acted contrary to liimfelf; obferving, that I had it hi my power to reprefent whatever difficulties I might meet with, to the Medicinerchancery, the members of wliich, ufualiy, as he well knew, having always accefs to the Emprefs, made but very little difficulty, not only of re-prefenting their affairs to all the fuperior colleges, but effectually to in force juftice to be done to dieir dependents. He told liim, that he liad received a letter from his good friend Dr Fiflier, the archiator, (in anfwer to one he had wrote liim, intreating him to fend a well qualified furgeon, to take care of him and his command) in wliich he allured him, it was his opinion, that the Prince would thank liim for the man he had fent, aldio* he was then ignorant of the language, that he doubted not, when he was abfent from his countrymen, that he would foon learn the Ruffian language. He faid a great deal more, which I fhall not here repeat,
Captain
Captain Carrabine knew tliat every word the Prince had laid was true; therefore defired in Englifli, that I would forget any thing he had acted difagreeabie to mc. I took him by the hand, gave him a hearty (hake, and allured him, that, if ever an opportunity offered, in wliich I could be offer-vice to him, he would experience my lincere readinefs to oblige him. Thus ended this important atfair.
Captain Hertzenbergh, a Dane, Lieutenants Every, Smallman and Luggar, Etiglifhmen* came and welcomed me to 1 averhaff. They had been upon the Afophian lea, or Pains Mceotis, laft fummer, and were ordered, with 5 or 6oo failors, to come to Taverhoff, and had arrived there, whilifc I was in my way to Kotchatoff. It is eafy to any one, who has been fome months without feeing a country, man, to imagine how glad I v/as, fo unex> pecledly, to meet them. I forgot that 1 was tired, and, at Captain Hertzcnbergh's invitation, we went to his houfe, and enjoyed om> felves very agreeably till bed-time. Captain Hertzenbergh had learned the theory and practice of navigation in England, and indeed mowed mc as much kindnefs as my countrymen, or any other could do. Two days afr-ter this, Captain Hertzenbergh came to my lodffinst, before I was out of bed, and obfer-ving, that I ftept on my bed laced upon chairs, a&ed the reafonof tjiis. I told him, that Mr
Burman
Burman had no fpare bedftead but one, and that a furgeon, who was in poneflion of it before I arrived, was troubled with the itch, a difeafe I did not like ; and that, if the fuirimer was once let in, I would deep in a tent. The captain waited till I had dreffed myfelf, and invited me to breakfaft with him. He then let me fee a fmall room he had next his bed-chamber, and a feparate door by which I could go in or come out at pleafure, without difturbinghim. He faid, if I would accept of it, it would be fo far from being inconvenient to him, that he would take it veiy kindly, and think himfelf obliged. I had no objection to his offer, and, in an inftant, my bed and all my baggage was trail f ported to Captain Hertzenbergh's houfe.
I fhall j aft mention two or three anecdotes which happened this liimmer, and then proceed to more interefting lubjects. Thefe officers were ordered here to aifift the Prince in getting vcffels ready againft the fummer, wliich was fait advancing. The Prince iflu-ed out orders to the governors of Veronits, Cafan, and Kiove, to fend, without lofs of time, their complement of peafants, - to cut clown timber in the'neighbouring woods, to cany it to Taverhoff and Icorits. No lefs than 30,000 peafants were employed. It may appear to every one veiy ridiculous to caufe vcffels of 60 or 70 tons burden to be built with new felled timber ; but how ridiculous
2i foever
foeyer filch orders may appear to an intelli-gent reader, it was really {act; and it is incredible, with what expedition a number of thefe veflels were got ready againft May and the beginning of June, and were carried to A-foph with the fwelling of the Don, which always happens about this time, from the melting of the fnow covering fuch immenfe tracts of land.
The confequence was, that the failors had enough a-do to keep them fwimming. In fhort, they were obliged to cork the feams every day during hammer ; and, though we were mod fuccefsful again ft the Turks by land, we were as unfucefsiul by fea : For, whereas we could fend to the Afophianfea on-y fuch veflels as thefe, capable to cany four or five, or at moft fix fmall cannon, die Falus Mceotis was covered with large Turkifh velfels carrying 60 or 70 great cannon ; and it was confi-dently reported, that thefe veflels were directed by French mailers and gunners. In fhort, thefe veflels frequently fell into the hands of the Turks. The reader probably will afk, To what fervice liich veflels could be ufeful ? The defign of them was only to tranfport ammunition and provifions for the army under the orders of the late Field Mar-flial Count Lacy, which fometimes they effected, but never returned all to Afoph in fafety.
Another fleet of this kind was deilined for the army, under the command of Count Muinich,
who
who acted on the weft fide of the Drieiper; but indeed neither was of great ufe, as will appear, when I relate the progreis of our anus againft the Turks.
Mr Smalhnan was a good natured quiet perfon, and, I believe, would not willingly have quarrelled with any man. He had been, fince the year 1736, miferably reduced by the obffinacy cf a difeafe, and though he had been under the care of eminent men; yet, as he was obliged every fummer to fail into the Pains Mceotis, before his arrival in Taverhoff, he was again in a worfe condition than before he let out. I had this winter cured liim. He was but recovered, and in a very weak ftate, when the reft of our countrymen were ordered, with all their men, to repair to Afoph ; but Suiallmaii was kept by my atteftation, declaring, that, till he recovered ftrength, he could do no duty: That at prefent he was unable to perform fuch a journey, and that it would riifc his life to no pur-pofe. This, I afterwards was informed, was very difagreeable to the haughty Breda!, their infignificant admiral, as will be related.
One day as we were in the citadel of Taverhoff, a brother lieutenant of his in the fleet, enquired of Smallman, Where he learned the firft rudiments of navigation ? Smalhnan anfwered, That he was bound apprentice to the coal-fliips which ply betwixt Newcaftle and London, and afterwards ferved hi the royal
navy.
navy. Mr Paveloff, for that was the other lieu-tenant's name, wanted no more dian.to turn this into ridicule, and indeed was bearing hard upon Mr Smallman, when I faid, that I was no failor, but that I had heard it often af-ferted by tlie moll knowing people in thcie affairs hi Great Britain, that failors bred in the coal-trade were eftecmed the beft and hardielf, poilibly in the world ; and that certainly the Ruilian admiralty knew this well, elfe they never would have engaged Mr Small-man in the Imperial fervice. In fhort, Pavc-loif anfwered, that as I was no lailor, he did not direct liis difcourfe to me, and only wanted to talk with Smallman.
Mr Paveloff was very rich, vain, proud, and overbearing ; and I obferved that he wanted to make Mr Smallman a butt to his vanity. It went to my heart to be prefent, and fee a good natured countryman made the game of a vain empty fellow (for Scots, Engliih, and Irilh, are all countrymen a-broad.) I begged of Mr Smallman, as he loved his country, his countrymen prefent, and his honour, to fuffer him no longer, to call him aiide, and let him know, that he would have him either to alk pardon immediately, or elfe to allure liim, that he would take the firft opportunity of doing liimfelf juftice ; and, if needful, I allured him, he fhould not want a fecond. Smallman did lb, and the coniequence was, Paveloff alked pardon,
TRAVELS- i8r
don, which effectually turned a great laugh againft him, even by liis countrymen. He lbIbecled that I was the caufe,(Iipoke in Englifli) and as I was but of ihiall growth, young, and had, at that time, more the appearance c£ a coniumptive perfon than any thing elie, as I was exercifing myfelf in a very immoderate fit of laughter, he, unexpectedly enough, collared me, and, without great difficulty, I believe as in jeft however, threw me on the ground : I had alfo got faft held of him, and held fo faft, thai he fell over me down the fide of the hill, (for it was a riling ground where this happened, and we were on the very top j at the bottom of wliich were fome old docks, where Peter the Great uied to launch his new built veflels:) I had no intention to flop the diverfion, nor was I in the fmailed degree angry, efpecially as I was dreffed in. an ordinary green frock, and he in liis uniform, richly mounted with broad gold lace ; fo I veiy nimbly flew over him, but, ftill holding faft, tho' he would have been dif engaged, I brought him again over me, and thus we tumbled down to the dock, where we were both bedaubed from head to foot. At riling, as we were out of hearing of the by-ftanders, I allured him, that I looked upon him as a fcoundrel, and would embrace the veiy firft fafe opportunity of chaflifing him as fuch. However, tho' liis cloaths were not only rendered ufelefs with naftinefs, but in many
places
places torn, yet he affected to treat all that had happened as a joke, and took liis Mends to witnels, it could be nothing elie. By their uiterpoiition then, a reconciliation was made, and, to confirm it, he entertained us with a few bottles of wine. Indeed, thro* the whole farce, I had enough a-do to look any way fe-rious, frequently burfting out into involuntary laughs.
Soon after the departure of our countrymen, Captain Carrabine was difmiffed to St Petcrlburgh, and one Captain Rufelius, a German, appointed as captain of the port in liis place.
CHAP. XXXIX.
Concerning what happened to the Author by Admiral Bredal, ckc.
IN the month of February, Bredal arrived in Veronits,and fent word to the captain of the port to provide h:in a lodging in Taverhoff. Rufelius ordered me to evacuate my quarters. Capt. Hertzenbergh not only had left me his houfe, but a very confiderable quantity of wood for fuel, which Bredal would have undoubtedly burnt. I, confided ng myfelf as not under the directions of the port, returned however my compliments to die captain, who was truly a good man.
Inflead
Inftead of obeying his orders, I defired my fervant to yoke my horfe in the fledge: While he was doing this, I lectured, by barring and locking, all die entries into this great houie, and then drove into the defart for an airing, where I remained long enough to give Rufelius and his admiral time to adjuft then' affairs, and, when late, returned to Mr Burman, difmiffed my fervant to go home to take care of the houfe.   At Mr Burman's I was told by die admiral's furgeon, that the admiral was very angry that I flopped Small-man, and tliat he was determined to have a fecond vifitation, in order to carry him along with him : That I had now again incurred his difpleafure, by not evacuating the houfe, according to Rulelius's order; and that, as he had great need of men of my profeflion, he had heard him fay, he would require me by an unanfwerable  memorial to Prince Golitzin, (hewing him liis cafe, and the im-pollibility of being provided any other way ; whereas the Prince had many chances of lurgeons% palling either to die fleet or armies.
In anfwer to this, efpecially as I knew this furgeon was to fup with Bredal that night, I told him/ that Mr Rufelius and I, I hoped, would not difagrce about my leaving the houfe, when he was fenfible of the caufe: That Mr Burman and I jointly had attefted Smallman, and diat if Bredal, after fuch at-
reflation,
184      VOYAGES ant*
teflation, took him, though warranted by the attellation of others, I would immediately lodge in the Medicine Chancery a protefl, and another in the admiralty, in the ftrongelc terms. I faid that my inftr nations from the Medicine Chancery, and corroborated by inductions from the board of admiralty, who, he ought to know, never attempted to contradLl tiie deiign of the Chancery in medical affairs, bore that I IhouLl witii all pof-iiblc exocdition make mv renalr to Prince Golitzin, and there to take care of his health, and of thole under his immediate command.
I laid, I was furpriied tliat any vice-admiral was fo thoughtlefs as to imagine any perfon, who had the fmallelt title to common fenfe, would run the riique of difobeying in-ftructions from his principal conflituents, in favours of a man ahfblutcly under their orders, and of a perfon, of whom he knows nothing. That I fliould not hefitate to lpeak the fame language, and fomething more to the admiral, if he urged any fuch matter; and, in fhort, tho* Prince Golitzin was ever fo willing to oblige Admiral Bredal, in this I would obey neither the one nor the other, till they procured me new orders from die Medicine Chancery.
As I laid before, a dark cloud hovered o-ver the Prince, and this made liim, tho* naturally a quiet good man, fubmitto many liberties, wliich men, in no fhape equal to him,
at
TRAVELS, 1&5
at this time frequently took. I was certain that what I had faid would be agreeable to die Prince, efpecially as I took the blame of refufal to myfelf; the two German furgeons flared at my reafoning, acknowledged the truth of our being only under the direction of the Medicine Chancery, but laid that die admiral, was he to hear fuch difcourfe, might do me a great injury; becaufe at fuch diftance, his power was very great, and liis connections with the admiralty and Medicine Chancery might be alfo great. That he was, they had reafon to believe, alfo a very invective man, and that people greatly fuperior to me in rank, durft not take the liberty to withftand his orders, though not flrictly agreeable to the regulations.
I only replied, that I was born in a land of liberty, and was refolved to fpeak the language of my heart ; and that fb long as I did my duty to her Majeily, and was determined to act up to the meaning of die regulations, to wliich I was ftrictly bound by my oath; therefore I was certain that no admiral could greatly moleft me, if I continued to purfue tliis way. I faid much more which I fhall not, for brevity's fake, mention ; but, as I expected, and indeed, defigned, the admiral's furgeon at fupper told him every word, and probably more. The auditory expreifed great furprize, as they faid, at my impudence: But the admiral, tho' a Dane,
A a had
had been long on board Britifh men of war,, where he learned his principles of navigation, and likewiie, the lengths that Britifh people will go, when hardly tried, laid nothing but bit his lips, and his acquaintances faid it was a fign of dlipieniure. Next morning I waited upon my Prince, who feemed to be tlifturbed : He told mc that Bredal, for whom lie had not the (mallejft regard, had infilled to take me with him, 6v„ I in return, acquainted him of our difcourfe laft night, and of my reafbns for faying that I would not go even if the Prince ordered me. As none were prefent, he faid, I had told what was true, and, in fome rapture, threw his morning gown about me, which was a fign cf great fatisfaction. He however ordered that I fliould make my appearance before Bredal, and advifed, that I migl it moderate my paffion ; becaufe it might,., fome-time or other, lie in his power to do me an injury,. I accordingly went into a great hall where the admiral was ftanding with a number of his minions about him : As I was very neatly dreffed, he eyed me: Capt. Ruflelins told him who I was, and as an anfwer, he gave a nod. I remained about a quarter of an hour fpcak-ing to my acquaintances : At laft, I made-my bow, and went off, not ill pleafcd that I had no opportunity of making a wider breach, and when I coniider the important ah*, and pride wliich he clumfily enough
alTumed^
T R A  V EL  S, If*
antimed, .1 imagine he was as glacl to be •quit of me.
As this haughty man was cletermiried to cany fome of his prcpoials agamic inch a diminutive antagoniif as mc, and as it was the only one -remaining, orders were iffued to rc-villt Mr Smaiiman, and his own furgeon was to be one of the judges.   I (hall not here take up my reader's time, nor tire liis patience about medical controverfies in this affair, againd the admiral and his furgeon only, that I allured him, he difhonoured his place in the Emprefs's fervice, either in acting according as Bredal would have him, or elfe, he evidently betrayed his ignorance, in alledging it was 1 ale and poiiible for a man to do what lie was truly not able to perform, or that he run no rifque of his life, to make a journey of betwixt 7 and 800 verfls, at Rich a Jfcafon, confidering die dangerous course he .had jufl undergone, and the prefent feeble and weak condition he was brought to. I told him, it was not enough for him to think to get protection from fuch a head as his admiral's : He ought to be fure, that he acted according to princ3pk?s of the medical infti-tutions agreed upon by the heft mailers, and particularly, according to the faithful obfer-vations of the moil bono arable authors in the profeflion; that a deliberate action againft the truths they afferted,  was an acknowledgement of ignorance. I laid, I was acquainted
with
•with the Archiator, and diat he knew me; that I durft fay, Mr Burman was a man of more integrity and experience than to join with him: But that fuppof ing he fhould, it would rather ftimulate, than difcourage me to reprefent the affair more effectually; and that if Mr Smallman fhould lole his life after fuch fair admonition, he and his admiral was molt juftiy anfwerable to her Majefty, for fuch an indirect ftep, contrary to the tenure of Peter the Great's regulations, and that I would immediately lay my complaint before the Cantoir in Taverhoff, enjoining them to acquaint his admiral with it, before he left TaverhofF, that he might not plead ignorance; that laflly, the Emprefs had too great a love for juftice, to let fuch crimes efcape punifliment; a furprifing privilege truly, allowed to great men and judges, thro' many principalities in Europe ! Wherever this happens to be the cafe, who can help thinking, if they dare not lpeak their minds, that fuch a ftate is ruled by madmen, or ab-folute fools ! 1 fhall, for inflance, fuppofe that a man obnoxious to a great man, had inadvertently in anger, threatened another, this other aftewards happened to come to an untimely death, by an unknown hand ; the man, who formerly had inadvertently threatened liim, was feized, thrown into jail, tried and condemned to be hanged, and pofi-tively was hanged, only by the power of a
great
great man of neither honour, honefty, nor real good judgment: And fuch a cafe has been difcovered afterwards by the veiy author of the murder, either from a difturbed confcience, or from a defire before he left tliis world to do juftice to the relations of the perfon, who had innocently been fed to the altar as the vi£tim of a wrong-headed great man.
In fhort, my former declaration concerning Mr Smallman, was a fecond time confirmed by the admiral's own furgeon, tho' s very contrary to liis inclination : But the fear of being expofed, tried and degraded, preponderated with him for once to defert the warm injunctions of liis empty headed admiral, and indeed, I did not part widi him, till he was fenfible enough of the poor pitiful opinion I entertained of his admiral and himfelf, which was, in a very fhort time after this, fully evidenced to be very well founded, as will be faithfully related in its proper place. His furgeon advifed me to go along with him and Mr Burman to deliver our report : This I declined for many reafons. Thus we parted, nor did I ever fee either of them after this, fo that what I have wrote cannot be referred to any other motive, than a natural antipathy I ever had, and continue to bear againft all fuch bale men j nor did I ever hefitate to declare my opinion either to
them
them or their friends, let their greatncfs be ever fo extendve.
CHAP. XL.
A geographical defcription of the province of Veronits, its capital, and a natural hifipry of this country.
THE metropolis of the province of Veronits bears the fame name, and lies almoft fouth-f outh-eaft from the city of Mofcow, diflant from Taverhoff 10 verfts. The city of Veronits is built upon the fouth fide of a hill, and the river Veronits wafhes the fouth fide of the city. Upon the top of the hill is a citadel furrounded with a dry ditch, fortified with palifadocs, it is a place of no great flrength: In it, the archbifhop has his palace, and there are fome churches. The whole city is encompaffed with a dry ditch and rampart with palifadocs. It is faid to contain about 6000 inhabitants : The governor's palace and courts of juftice are all built at the foot of the hill**   The province
Of
* At a diftance from the city, especially to the fotith tip-on many hills and high grounds, the inhabitants, in fbr-• iner times; probably^ before the Ukraine was peopled, formed rickles of fl ones, or cones of earth where ctrttinels were placed with tar barrels or other combustibles, to give notice to the cities and countries of the approach of
the
TRAVEL  S. to\
of Veronits has the province of Mofcow on the north* Bielogorod and Kiove provinces on the weft; Little Tartary on the fouth • Penzinfkoi, Sinbirfkoi and part of the king* doni of Aftrachan on the eaft. In 47 degrees 1 o minutes north latitude on the fouthy by 6 3 degrees 45 minutes eaft longitude, on the eaft by 54 degrees three minutes, on the north, and by 54 degrees* 10 minutes eaft longitude on the weft. A great part of the Ukraine is fubjecl to the provinces of Veronits and Kiove. The province of Veronits is* Very juftly reckoned a natural, rich and fertile country, there are indeed many great de-farts in it, only from want of water, for on brooks and rivers are many veiy large and populous cities and villages ; excepting its lbuthermoft borders in Little Tartary on the Don, wliich, though a rich pleafant country, does not feem to be well inhabited: This proceeds, I fuipecT from their fear of the Crim Tartars; for, unlels a colony of warlike men forms and fortifies a town at once, there can be no fafety for a few inhabiting^ the o-pen country, as no manner of trull is to be put in die Crim Tartars, nor indeed in their proteclors, the Turks.   Taverhoff lies fouth
weft
the enemy. Thefe are ftill remaining, as with us m Scotland, and I was informed, that in fufpicirms times, two Jiorfemen were appointed by each of thefe, who, when they perceived any conftderable body of men travelling *iom the enemy's country, immediately fet fire to the com-kuiiibles, and made their repair to places of ftrciigth.
weft from the city Veronits, built by Peter die Great on the fouth banks of the river Veronits, which runs into the Don at the diftance of about two verfts from f averhoff* Two thirds of Taverhoff are lurrounded by the rivers Don and Veronits. The low flat grounds are covered over with thick woods and lakes, after the floods of May and June are over, which, I prefumc, makes Taverhoff very unhealthy. About mid-way betwixt Veronits and Taverhoff, Feter made a long, flrong, high dyke, with a lock in it, for confining the waters of Veronits, in order to float die fhips he built there. He made another of the fame materials, but much ftronger and higher, upon the Don, three miles from Taverhoff. The dyke alone is more than two verfts in length, and has two fluices in it; by the help of wliich great locks, it is almoft incredible, what a depth of water he afle-m-bled, by which he launched fhips of war of 70 guns, fome of which I have feen ftill pre-ferved in Taverhoff ; and by this conflux of water, he carried thefe great fliips to Afoph; which, when the laft peace was made with the Turks, in his life time, were again, by the fame care and art, brought back to Taverhoff, laid up on dry ground, and fhadcs built over them, I fuppofe only to peqietuate the memory of that great Emperor.
Taverhoff is built very regularly, with the ftreets interfering one another at right angles,
all
all of wood : A fine palace Hands on the well end of the town, with good gardens, where the Prince lived, built of the fame materials. The fort lies to die weft of this, in which eveiy tiling neceftaiy for (hip-building, and magazines of all* forts, are kept. The citadel is made of earthen ramparts palifadoed, with baftions at the corners, (it being an exact fquare) mounted with cannon. To the weft of this, is a village inhabited by 3000 foldi-ersy for the fafety of the place. Taverhoff is inhabited only by failors, and a few fiflier-men. I prefume tins policy is not bad, becaufe the fame fpirit of envy takes place in Ruftia, as in many other nations, betwixt fol-diers and failors. They never can agree, lor in St Peterfburgh, though under the imme^ diate difciplme of the fupreme government, their animofity was fb ftrong, that, in my time, the guards and failors have fought, notwithstanding fevere orders to the contrary, pitched battles, where fome 011 both fides have been flain : At laft, however, they were reftrained from this by the Emprefs Anne.
Certainly the province of Veronits is one of the moft plentiful countries in the world, comprehending great part of the Ukraine ; for the numbers of our armies and fleet, altogether acting againft the Turks, with an army for the protection of the Ukraine, were no lefs than 150,000; add to thele 40 or 50,000 peafants employed in the different works of Qiip-building, all which were fup-
B b plied
194      VOYAGES and-
plied with pro virions from the provinces of Veronits and Kiove, nor did I ever learn, that any provifion was brouglit from any o-ther province of Rulfia into this, during the whole war ; yet, for all tliis, I have known an ox bought for a ruble; a large low, killed and cleaned, for 3s. 6d. a gooic or turkey 2d. or at moft 3d. a hen r d. and fo forth. I have often bought a bag cf oats, equal to four bulhels Winchefter meafure, for about 3 s. 6 d» Large magazines of provilions, during the war, were kept in many fortified cities in tliis province, always in good order, fo that the army, when on the Lkraine, never fuffered die imalleft want of any thing.
The defarts, when they are watered with a few (howers of rain in the fummer, produce grafs in abundance. The banks of the rivers are like gardens, producing many vegetables, which we, with all our art", can fcarce-ly cultivate in ours. Hops and Sparrowgrafs grow luxuriantly eveiy where ; their apples are not good; pears, from which we have made, for a mere trifle, the beft perry I ever tailed, grow wild ; great variety of the medicinal plants, ufed in the apothecaries Ihops, grow GJily by the richnefs of the foil.
The rivers afford food and all convenien-cy to different kinds of water-fowl, fuch as fwans, different forts of geefe and ducks, fnipes, &c. The defart produces heath-fowl of different kinds,buflards,cranes, partridges,
quails,
quails, fee. Quadrupeds, harts, feveral forts of deer, wild 1 wine not very plentiful, hares, wolves, foxes, bears, and a veiy beautiful a-nimal, called by the natives furks, which burrow under ground, and live far from any in} habited place, are of a brown colour, fomething like a lap-dog, but have large eyes and whifkers, and only four large teeth in.die fore part of their mouths, are exceflively fat, he at or near their holes, and, when they fee any man, whiffle very loud two or three times, then retire. They live as it were in colonies, for they are always found in large bands. The rivers and lakes are full of veiy fine fifh, fuch as flurgeon, ffirlet, pike, tench, perch, carp, -fee. In fhort, nothing is wanted to make Veronits the happieft country in the world, but liberty and mild government \ What is in the bowels of the earth, I know not, for the inhabitants, having no need of any thing more than what nature has fb plentifully provided for them, feek after notliing elfe.
CHAP*
CHAP. XLI.
Concerning the Ruffian and Turkijh War, from the Tear 1736, //// the latter End of the Tear 1730.
DURING the two years I (laid in TaverhofF, I had many opportunities of being informed concerning the operations of our armies and fieets, by gentlemen who had been eye-witneftcs. I fhall, however, for brevity's fake, only give a general relation of what happened every fiimmer> without entering into very many, though brave, petty aclions. Mighty empires, it is well known, like children, quarrel, and agree again after they are tired. They are both in the right, and both in the wrong; as this is often the cafe, I (hall not lay whether the Ruffians or Turks were in the wrong,but fo it was,war was declared by the Ruffians againft the Turks and Tartars in 1736, and two armies were ordered to act immediately. The firft fet out under the command of the brave Count Muinich, who, without lofs of time, laid liege to Afoph, where he loft a great number of brave men, nor could he take the city- Another army was getting ready by the wife, the humane, the brave Count Lacy. Thefe two great men were both field-marfhals in the armies
TRAVELS 197-
niies cf Ruffia. They were both great experienced generals, but their characters are different. Count Muinich was a German from Heffenhumburg, an intrepid, bold man, but endeavoured to carry all his enterprifes at once ; he therefore had no notion of fparing even his own men. Count Lacy, under whofe immediate orders I ferved two years, was an Irifli gentleman. He was at the fiege of Limrick, and followed King James VII. to France : He ferved the Emperor of Germany, and at laft the Empire of Ruifia : He was at the famous battle of Narva, and many have told me, that it was owing to that gentleman that the whole Ruilian army was not cut to pieces ; for he wifely deftroyed the roads, fo that the victorious Charles could not pal's. The univerfal character he bore in the Ruffian army, by all ranks of men, joined to what I have faid, is, diat, when he commanded the army, he never fought a battle, but he was victorious ; he never laid fiege to any place that he did take.
At the fiege of Dantzick, they commanded by turns eveiy week. After they had made 1500 French prifoners, it was de^ termined in a council of war, to chaftife the citizens for galling the Ruffians with then* ar* tillery from the walls, during their action with the French, who had taken protection under the walls of Dantzick. The marflials agreed that the citizens lliould be chaftifed, but they
differed
differed far in the manner of attack. Count Muinich wanted to lcale the walls inftantly, deipifing fuch a neft of burghers ; but the wary Count Lacy was againft this, on account of the great lofs of men which muft neceftari-ly be the coniequence, in fo much that he protelled againft the council of war, and never would command with Muinich after this.
His advice was foon verified, for, although they foon made themfelves mafters of the city, it was with the lofs of r 5,000 men. Count Muinich, as I laid before, had loft a great number of his belt troops before Afoph, nor had he made the fmalleft impreftion on the city ; for thefe reafons, the Court of Peterfburgh ordered Count Lacy to take the command of Muinich's troops, and Muinich to march a-gainft the Pericop.
As Count Lacy was marching with the ut-moft expedition alongft the Don, efcorted only by a few Coftacks and barbarous Kalmucks, part of the Kdmucks ftole his horfes, giving out that they were ftolen by a party of the Crim Tartars. The marflial being in the defart, could not proceed, fent the remaining Kalmucks in queft of his horfes, promifing them their value if they were recovered. In fhort, his horfes were returned quite fatigued, and the Kalmucks received their reward according to the marfhai's promife ; but afterwards their villany was diicovcred, and they were glad to return the money to preferve their
lives.
live?.   When Count Lacy had taken a view of the city, he caufed new works to be made, and the artillery, efpecially the mortars, to be placed, ib as to reach their great powder magazine ; at fame time he ordered two large praams to be ftationed under the walls of the city.   By this change of operations, the great-eft powder magazine was blown up by a bomb, which, as was reported, deftroyed at leaft one third of die city, upon which the Turks delivered it up, with the cannon, mortars, and ammunition remaining, but agreed to tranfport as many Turks as chufed to go to the Crim, with their proper effects, and this he did with great exactnefs. Count Mu^ inich deftroy ed the Pericop, fent many pri-foners to Peterfburgh*, and thefe operations concluded the campaign this year.
ARLY this fummer, as General Leflie, a
J2j gentlemen of Scots extraction, was, with a fmall body of men, palling from one part of the Ukraine to another, he was attack^ ed by a large body of Tartars.   It wras faid,
* The Ruflzans had a finall fleet in the Don, ftationed to carry provifions and ammunition to the army under the command of Count Lacy at Afoph.
CHAP. XLII.
The Operations of the Armies in the Tear iJ2>7m
that
that he fent off exprefTes immediately, to a German, Maj or-General Heim, at no great diftance, who, had he been willing, might easily have relieved that brave man. General Leflie encouraged liis men not to deliver themlelves up prifoners, but die like men ; which accordingly happened.    The Tartars got fome fpoil, but did not make one prisoner : Some alledged, diat his fon was made prifoner, but if fo, he was certainly mortally wounded, for he was never heard of, and, had he been alive, the Tartars would have preserved him for ranfbm. Heim was fliot to death, for neglecT of duty.
General Lacy marched from the Ukraine, with an army not exceeding 40,000 regular troops, but a confiderable body of Coftacks and Kalmucks joined this army, palfed the Rotten Sea, or Guiloi More, upon a bridge of boats, beat the Turks and Tartars where ever they met them, returned to the Ukraine loaded with honour, fpoils, and many prifoners*.
Count
* I cannot pa/s by the operations of a finall flotilla of Ttuilian boats, acting on the Palus Moeotis this year. They carried fome ammunition and provifions for the army under Count Lacy's orders, as they were returning back to a-foph. One of them, commanded by a French gentleman, L'Efremeiy, flruck upon a land-bank. The Turks obfer-ved it, and cannonaded it very brijkly, being far from the reft, and not protected by the army. The brave L'Efve-mery laid trains to blow up his veflel, then he fent all bis men afhore, to make their efcape to the reft of the fleet, which was at fome diftance. The Turks bavinrr filenccd L'Efremery, and having obferved the men making their rev
treat
Count Muinich marched from Kiove with a regular army, confuting, of 40,000 troops, and many thoufands of irregulars, palled the Borifthenes, not far from Kiove, upon pontoons, and, in his march towards Otchakoff, drove with great daughter all his enemies before liim into the city of Otchakoff, (called in other books Oczacow.) An admiral was ordered to attend this army with a fleet of fmall craft, loaded with provifions ; but (it was faid, through fear of a Turkifh fleet lying oppofite to Otchakoff) he did not come up in time. The defart was covered over with great plenty of grafs, but it was withered and quite dried up, by the continued drought, which frequently happens in thefe countries, at that time of the year. The Rullians no fooner had arrived in the neighbourhood of Otchakoff, than the Tartars let fire to the grafs in the defart j The Rullians were obliged, to preferve their camp, to'fet fire to the grafs round it, that the two fires, meeting at a great diftance from the camp, might be the lefs troublcfpme to the army, and dangerous to their magazines of powder. The confequence of this was, that there was no grafs left for the cavahy, but what grew on the banks of the river ; add to
treat by land, Cent feveral boats to bring ofF the vefiel: •when L'Efremery obferved the vcflel full of Turks, he fet fire to the train, and blew up his vefiel, hinxfelf, and a good jtiumber of liis enemies.
C c tliis
tliis misfortune, that the flotilla, with provifions for the army, was not arrived, nor could the marlhal get the lealt account of it.
Upon this, a council of war being fummon-cd, they were nearly unanimous to retire. In councils of war, die yoimgefl: conuantly ipcaks firft, and the inarihal gives his opinion laft of all. The memorable brave General Keith, being fecond in command, advifed them, that it was abfblutely iinpollible to retire, without the help of their flotilla, that if this advice was attempted, they mult kill all their horfes, lofe their artillery, and deflroy their ammunition and baggage ; becaufe there was no forage, remaining ; tliat there was not provilion for the armyr even at lliort allowance, for above fix or ieven days ; that, laft-ly, it was his opinion, the attack of the city mould not be delayed, and pointed out the manner of attacking it, offering bis fervice to command in the moll dangerous place, tho*, by his being fecond in command, this offer was irregular.
The tieki-marfhaf agreed to his advice, plan, and method : Some faid, that though Muinich loved Keith, yet he was finely jealous of his growing greatnefs, as he was the darling of the whole army, both regular and irregular. From whatever motive it happened, the Count adhered to Genera] Keith's ad-Vice, and, in the night-time, a body of veterans were lodged in an old Turkilh redoubt,
which
wliich lay upon the banks of the river, and at break of day, Gen. Keith led a body of 3 or 4000 men into the dry fojfa wjaich furround-ed the city, which brought the greateft part of the braveft Turks to tliat fide, they fearing that the Rullians would fcaie die walls immediately. Whilft the beiieged were hi the greateft eonfternation, and bringing their braveft force aeainft the marflial, who liad time to play his mortars and cannon from the proper places agreed upon, and was foon wounded in the knee with a mufquet-ball. However, he gave orders never to leave the attack till the city furrendered, which, he affiled them, would very foon happen, and then was carried to the camp by fix grana-diers. About this time, as was expeclcd, a large body of Spaliis ruined out of the eaft gate, palfed by the old redoubt before mentioned, and attacked the Ruilian camp ; but it was too well fortified by the d>cvaux de frife, cannon, and fmall arms, for them to make the leaft imprefticn upon it. Upon this, the regulars rulhed out, and, at the very firft at tack, the men formerly mentioned, lodged in the old redoubt, made very dreadful daughter from behind, and, about this veiy time, a large bomb broke through their great magazine, which blew it up, with great part of the city. The Spaliis, being fo hotly handled, fled with great precipitation, and in the greateft £onfu(ion, running the gauntlet, as they palfed
fed by the old redoubt, the Gaflpcks, and o-thers, entered the gate with them, bravely maintained their poll, and kept the gate o-pen, till greater numbers coming in, mattered it and the city.
In public foreign papers it was faid, that die Ruffians befteged it four days ; but the account I have given, I believe to be true, as I had it from gentlemen who were prefent; and, though the Ruiiians might have been before it four days, yet, I'm perfuaded, the city was taken on the very lame day in which the nrft attack was made. Be that as it will, a veiy terrible maffacre enfucd. The Turks continued obftinate, and many Ruiiians were flain, which fo incenfed the victors, that, for i'ome time, they lulled every living Turk they met with, f paring neither men, women, nor children.
Tho' my intention is to make my relation veiy fhort, yet I cannot help mentioning two brave actions performed by a countryman from Aberdeen, as I was informed, whole name was limes. Mr Innes, lieutenant in the Horfe Guards, allied, and obtained leave, from the Emprefs, to ferve under Count Muinich, as a volunteer. He was riding at a final! diftance before the held-marfhal, but in his view, through the ftreets of Otchakoff. No doubt the' officers were much grieved to fee the foldiers fb mad, thnt they, at other times moft obedient, would not-
defift
defift from their butchery. Innes called to a granadier of the Guards, who was barbarouf-ly expofing a Turkifh child, which he had juft pierced with his bayonet, and, in a ridiculous manner, was bafely diverting liimfelf with the agonies of the poor little innocent. Innes, determuied to put a flop to fuch bar*-barky, reproved the granadier in very harfh words : The granadier, as I faid, mad with rage, threw the infant from him, and, forgetting all duty, made bis way to Innes, who, far from deferring the unequal challenge, received him, put his bayonet afide, (for the fellow intended to have flabbed him) and, at one blow fevered his head from his body; another foldier, with great indignation, feeing how Mr Innes had ferved his friend, made at him with his fcrewed bayonet alfo, but met with the very fame fate. The field-marflial, being an eye witneis of Innes's bravely, greatly commended him. This encouraged fome odier officers, who foon thereafter got the foldiers brought to a fenfe of their duty.
With no fmall fatigue they had become mafters of the whole city, except one baftion, where fome hundreds of Janizaries had lodged : They were determined to maintain that place with the greateft obftinacy, firing, and throwing granades at all the Ruifians who went near them. The field-marfhal, though he had barricaded all the avenues to them, and
rendered
rendered their efcape impoftible, yet was un-eafy, that fuch a number of delperate men mil held out, nor did he think that he was mailer of the city, until they were in his power. He therefore gave orders to bring up the artillery, to deftroy them. Mr Innes pitied the fate of lb many brave enemies: He obferved, that the Turks only had iired at men in arms, and the furious heat of then* pailion was alfo by this time much abated. The Turks had a way by which they ufed to draw up their artillery to die top of the baftion. Mr Innes faid to liis comerades, that he would take thefe Turks prifoncrs, providing the Ruiiians could be reftrained from firing upon them as -they came down. They diffuaded him from fo dangerous an undertaking ; but he anfwered, tliat he would do it, or die in the attempt, -and, fheathing his fword, he rode calmly up to the enemy, amongft whom he efpied a pretty youth, of about 15 or i 6 years of age. When he came near him, he alighted from his horfe, and, taking this youth to be their commander, who indeed was fo, approached him in a rcipeclable, though foldier-like manner, called out, Ne-bofs, which figfiifies, Don't fear. Then he put him in mind of the dangerous fituation they were in, of the fieldrmar-fhal's defigns, deliring them to obferve the hafte the Ruffians were in to bring up their artillery, and allured them, that he had rilk-ed liis own life to favc theirs ; and that if
they
they would march along with him, he would pawn Ms life and honour, that the field-mar-fhal, who loved, and efteenied brave men, tho' enemies, would treat them as refpecTful-hy as they could expect, providing they behaved with becoming moderation. Tliis dif-courfe charmed them, and accordingly they went along with him, and laid their arms at the field-marfhaPs feet, who carreffed the boy, and kept him always at liis own table. Some faid, that he was the governor's fon, others, that he was fon of the Khan of die Crim Tartars. The boy faid, diat it was the barharitv of the Ruiiians wliich forced them to take the refolution of fighting to the laft man. When every tiling was quiet, and proper order again eftablifhed, the marflial returned Mr limes thanks, at the fame time, conflituted him lieutenant-colonel of a regiment of horfe, and not fatisfied with diis, in his report to the Emprefs, he did not forget to make honourable mention of liim, and that he had granted him the highcft commiftion which was in the power of a Ruilian field-marflial to beftow. By die return of the courier, the Emprefs difpatched a commilfion to be rilled up by the iield-marflial, appointing * Mr Innes colonel of dragoons.
Every thing being now accomplished according to Count Muinich's willies, he appointed Major-general Stoffehi governor of Otchakoff, with 12,000 good men, and returned
turned loaded with victory, honour and riches. It was faid, that fome of die Colfacks filled, and carried home their caps full of gold; and, undoubtedly, the irregulars got great booty, but the regular troops have it not in their power, as they dare not abfent thcmfclves from their colours : Thus ended the memorable actions of the year 1737*
CHAP. XLIIL The Operations of the Armies in the Tear 1738*
ADMIRAL Bredal was ordered to get his fleet of fmall craft ready early, that Count Lacy's operations might not be retarded for want of provifions and ammunition. This was the reafon that the failors with their officers made fo fhort a flay at Taverhoff. An order from the admiralty had been lent to Bredal, to caufe found the bar at Afoph, to fee if it were poflible for fliips of fome force to get over it. The admiral reported, that it was impoflible to get over the bar with larger veffels than thefe already in ufe, and ufed all his art to perfuade the few Britifh there, to fubmit to the fame opinion ; but Capt. Ken-zie, Lieutenants Leflie, Every, and Smallman, were of another opinion, protefted againft the admiral's plan, and lent a report of the foundings, fubferibed by them all, which they
had
TRAYE L S. 20$f
had carefully taken. They alledged that it was pollible to build veffels fit to cany 20, or even 30 guns : That, if they were provided with a fufficient number of fuch veflels, they would not only be in a condition to protect dieir tranfports^ but did not doubt to give a very good account of the Turkifh fleet, not-withftanding the largencfs of their fhips, or the number of their cannon.
Thus thefe affairs, undetermined by the admiralty, remained, when admiral Bredal returned this year to Afoph ; nor had the Ruffians one fhip or veflel which could carry more than fix fmall pieces, four or fix pounders each, which Were not able to engage fliips of 70 great guns, of which the Turks had a great number. This inequality of veflels, and difcord among the fea-oflicers, was the true caufe of all the misfortunes which bclel them this fuminer.
In fhort,- a fleet, as I was informed by officers belonging to it, was early enough got ready, and Lieutenant Eveiy, an excellent failor, was difpatched as commander of one of thefe little (hips, or rather covered boats, to bring advice to Bredal, Whether any Tur-kifli fleet was to be iecn in the Palus Moeotis.-? Mr Every, it feems, performed that piece of fervice to the fatisfaction of every perfon, except the admiral, who deflgning he fhould fall into the hands of the Turks, and being difappointed, was determined to opprefs liim
D d right
-iio      VOYAGES and
right or wrong. He accordingly fummnned the officers of the fleet, and, when affemblccL let them, know, that Mr Every there prefent, had not performed liis voyage according to the meaning of his inflru6tions. The admiral produced a report, with day-books, fuch as lea-officers keep, giving an account of his failings, foundings, the bays and promontories, which Mr Every had feen in his voyage; and laflly, that on fuch a day and hour, he Every had feen, from his top-mall-head, a> large fleet of Turkilh-veflels,. upon which he initantly changed his ccurle, and returned with all diligence. The lnidfhipmen, and o-thcrs, under Every's command, being examined, laid, that Mr Every's books and obfer-vadons were very exact,, but denied diat they had feen the Turkifh fleet. Mr Every faid, that he had acted up to the meaning of his inflructions r That he had acquitted liimfelf -as an experienced failor, which would be proved by the fleet when they failed out: That, as the inflructions were given to him alone, he was not obliged to fhew them to any under his command, and that it would have been contrary to the regulations, and to good fenfe, fo to have done.
He like wile plainly told the admiral, that, when he took his leave of him, he Bredal enjoined liim to fpeak of the defign of his failing to none, which Bredal denied. Mr Every faid, that if the admiral had intended, that
any
any number under liis order .ought to have witnefled his having feen the Turkilh ileet, he ought to have given it as part of his in-iUTJCtions; and laflly, that as he was the principal commander, and intnifted with the whole expedition, his report and word of honour ought to gain credit. Bredal's council of officers, however, would not blame l-.-ir Every ; but the proud admiral, wixhout lofs of time, ordered the fleet to fail, openly de-fpifing Every's report, giving out that he did not believe there was any "1 "urkifli fleet in that fea.
In tliis, however, he was deceived, and a fmall (hare of prudence and good fenfe might have convinced him that either the Turkifh iieet would early put to fea this year, or that in fo many ihoniand Turks, there were, none who had power ai|d judgment enough to prevent the Ruffian boats from doing them probably more mii "chief dian they did in the year 1737 ; for had it not been for the fmaii flotilla, Marfhal Lacy never could have pair fed his armies into die Crim by the Guiloi More. The Ruilian flotilla (ailed, directing their courfe weft towards the Crims, fleering as near the northern fhore as they could, and founding frequently. They at laft arrived at a promontory, from which neigbourhood Mr Every had reported that he had ctiicovered the Turks. None were here feen, and the admiral exulted greatly.   Every laid, that he
had
had no orders to advife the Turks to wait in this place ; but that he very probably would fee them before they reached the Guiloi More. The provident admiral was fo veiy fecure, that he ordered the flotilla to drop anchor during the night time, in the bottom of a deep bay about 300 verfls diflant from A-zoph. Next morning, die weather was fo hazy, that they could not fee a cable's length before them : About 11 o'clock J. M. the air cleared up, which dilcovered the whole Turkilh fleet in the mouth of the bay, hen> minn- in the Ruffians. They were not idle, their great guns reached the flotilla; and hi fhort the braveft Ruffian, that is to fay the admiral, and a few of his elect, were firft a-fhore, and happy were they who gained it. I was not informed of any great lofs of men on our fide, but I Was well informed that the Ruffians deflroyed their awn fleet by finking and burning it; and in fhort, rendered e-very thing ufeiels to the Turks. The Ruffians eaft an entrenchment, and mounted a few cannon afhore; nor durft the Turks land to attack them. A memorable incident happened at this time, which I cannot pafs by in filence ; it was diis: The entrenchment was not fifiifhed, when the brave admiral fent for fome of the principal captains, acquainting them diat he was taken very ill, and as there was no proper medicines in the defart, he determined tp go for help by land to Azoph,
4 and
and therefore he would be glad that they would accompany him. Captain Kenzy flatly refufed, telling him that he was reibived to remain, live, or bravely die with thofe under Ms command: The admiral however went off, drawn by oxen, accompanied by fome of his friends, and left the diflreffed failors and a few foldiers to Brigadier Lukine, a far better commander.
The brigadier, having rendered every thing ufelefs to the Turks, decamped and took a few fmall cannon and ammunition with him, drawn by the cattle they had brought with them for frelh provifion. The brigadier, a Ruilian gentleman, by his good deportment, had gained not only the efleem of the few foldiers, but of all the failors and their officers. His conduct and bravery was well known to them all, and glad they were. of the change. They - had not travelled 100 verfls, till about 1 o o'clock A. M. they fpied a great dull in the defart, approaching towards thein. Lukine ordered the failors to take the charge of the cannon, and formed the imall army into what is called by them, Battalia dc Carrie, the fame* I fuppofe, wliich we term hollow fquare. In this order, they had not marched long, till they difcovered a-bout 6000 Turkifh horfe well appointed, making all the hafte they could to get up to them. The brigadier gave ihort but clear orders, which were well obferved.   In fhort,
the
the Turks bravely advanced without order, (according to their ciiftoni, when diey defptfe the imall number of enemies) to the very points of our bayonets: When, die fignal. being given, immediately began a regular fire platoon-ways from the lquares, inter-fperfed with hand granades, wliilfl the fmall camion raked thein every way, fo tliat they were foon weary of this drubbing, and rode off, rather falfer than they had approached, leaving fome hundred horfe in die field for uie, which our poor men had much need of. A very few of our men were wounded ; for die Turks were fo ibon put into confufion, that the affair was over in about half an hour, and indeed it is worth remarking, that one midfliipman only was killed by a cannon ball, during this smpliibious expedition.
After this, diey proceeded to Azoph without any other lihidrance. No hiftory, I am perfuaded, can give an account of fuch another military affair: An admiral, under pretence of ficknefs, left his command, and arrived, drawn with oxen, with a few of his own kidney, and his fiulors bravely equips ped on horfeback!
§>vid faciant leges ubi fola pecwiia re gnat, Et ubi, paupertas vinccre nulla puiefl ?
Our admiral Byng fuffered death fcr a lefs crime, in my opinion: But Bredal, it was
laid,
faid, was protected at tliat time hy the moft formidable Duke of Courland.
At their arrival in Azoph, all was in con*, fufion: The admiral's conduct was highly ceniured by the britifh, who ffpoke iiheir minds too freely to the admiral's iace. The admiral was juftly blameable by all forts of people, but they fpoke with refpect. The Britifh were blamed only for imprudently telling the admiral that he was a coward, and ought not to command brave men. A court-martial was ordered to proceed againft them, which was compofed of the admiral's friends^ and it was refolved that Captain Kenzie and George Leflie fliould be difmhTed the Emprefs's fervice, and fent out of the "Efflor pire without an honourable diicharge*or pafF-port: That Lieutenants Every and Smallman ■fhould fuifer death. I had an early account of all thefe proceedings the enfuing winter from three fea officers, who, at the fame time, delivered me a letter from Lieutenant George Leflie, and a pacquet of letters, in which, one was directed to Mr Rowndaux. the Brl-tifli refident at St Peterfburgh, another to Count Golovine, one to Mr Bell of Anter-mony, and one to Mr George Napier merchant there, pointing out the moft unjuft and barbarous proceedings of the admiral, and defiring only that, by their means, the Emprefs might be acquainted with it, fo as juftice might be done to them.
I could
st6      V O Y AGES   Atf d
I could do nodiing without the help of Prince Golitzin; and therefore, without lofs of time, acquainted him\: He defired that I would not mention rriy having fpoken to him, or to any perfon, but that he would tliat very night difpatch for St r^terfburgh the a-cutefr. courier in Taverhoff, and faid, that I might take my meafures accordingly, with great fecrecy.   I fent for the courier immediately ; he laid, that at, or near Mofcow, a party of foldiers was ftationed on purpofe ftricidy to examine all paffengers, for fear of the plague, which raged at this time with great devaflation in the Ukraine, and that although it would be alcertained that Taverhoff was quite free, yet they certainly took all letters from private people, and burnt them.   I put a piece of money into his hand, and affured him that I would be more generous when he brought me an anfwer that the packet was received in St Peterfburgh. He took my money, and ingenioufly made a hole in the thick fole of his fledge, in which he concealed the packet, and fb was earned fafely to Peterfburgh: Upon wliich, an order was difpatched to Bredal, commanding him to fend his prifoners to the admiralty, where I fhall leave them, and proceed.
chap;
CHAP. XLIIL
A continuation of the fuccefs of the Ruffian Army.
IN the beginning of March, a great body of Turks and Tartars defign ed to make an eruption into the Ukraine, of which Lieutenant General Count Douglafs having had certain notice, laid wait for them. They, defpifing his fmall army, attacked him with, their wonted fury, but were feverely drubbed, loft a great many thoufand men killed on the fpot, had many prifoners taken, and the Khan's great flandard fell into his hands.
The next operation worth notice, is die fiege of Otchakoff, by a body of about 80,000 Turks and Tartars: Major General Stoffeln was commander in the city ; he was left with 12,000 regular troops laft year, by the army under the command of Count Muinich; but the plague raged in the garrifon with great violence through the whole winter, which had carried off upwards of 6000 men, the remaining were, many of them confined to the hofpital, and daily dying in great numbers. He therefore, for the benefit of frefh air, had ordered the garrifon to encamp in the neighbourhood of the city, except fo many as neceffarily were obliged to meant ^ Ee guard
guard in and upon the walls. When they were in this deplorable fituation, fome of his irregulars, who had been lent to fcour the defart, brought liim certain advice, that a very confiderable army were marching towards Otchakoff. He without delay beat to arms, and every thing was immediately in die heft order he could contrive. I was aiTu-red by his fon, and other officers, that foldiers, who could not Hand half an hour at once, mounted the walls. In fliort, the Turkilh army befieged them vigoroufly three days without intermillion, to little purpofc, tho', had they known the deplorable condition the garrifon was in, it is probable they would not have given it over : They left near one half of their army dead under the walls, which the garrifon, (ahnoft exhaufted) threw into the Borifthenes. The plague raged with more violence than ever, both here and in Kinburn: This, obliged the Ruiiians to defcroy thefe ftrong cities, and retire to the Ukraine.
Ths famous Donduk Amho was the righteous Prince of the Kalmucks; the Emprefs Anne, however, placed another, by the name of Donduk Dafhee, over the Kalmucks at the death of their laft Prince. Donduk Ambo would not fubmit to yield up what he thought his right by lineal defcent. 1 he greateft part of the Kalmuck nation joined him, and being afraid to live in the defarts
of
of Aftrachan their native country, they fled to Cuban Tartary, ikuated on the fouth fide of the Palus Mceotis, and put themf elves under the protection of die Grand Signior, four or five years before the war brcke cut. Donduk Ambo did not like his new protector, nor yet the Tartars of Cuban. At the beginning of the war, he would not af-lift the Turks againft the Ruiiians ; but let our generals know, that, notwithstanding what had paffed betwixt the Court of Peterfburgh and him, if the Emprefs would permit him to live in peace in Aftrachan, and reign over the Kalmucks, he would aflift the Ruffian arms with 40, or even 60,000 brave men : This was agreed to, and prefents fent from the Emprefs to Donduk Ambo confirmed tliis agreement; amongft other prefents, the Emprefs feat him two imall beautiful brafs cannon cf two or three pounders, and a line fcymitar, with the hilt cf gold, richly fet with precious ftones. 1 lie Cuban Tar* tars had been troublefome to liim during his ftay amongft them ; but when he departed to the defarts of Aftrachan, they purfued him, until he had the wilhed for opportunity of trying the metal of his fcymitar, which he did fo effectually, that he ahnpft extirpated all the fighting men in their country, and returned to the defarts, (after having fent fome thoufands of his men to the allulancc of Marihal Lacy) with mnumerable
herds
herds of the Cuban cattle. I fhall give a furr ther account of him, and the notable exr. ploits of his princefs, who was a Circaffian lady, and my patient, after Donduk Am-bo's death.
Field Marihal Lacy took the field this year with a gallant army of regulars not exceeding 40,000, and many thoulands of irregulars. Let it be obferved once for all, that whatever our news papers have laid, and may fay, the Rulfian regular armies never exceed 40,000 regular troops : Though in the late Pruflian war, our news papers made them exceed that number, I never gave any credit to their afTertion, becaufe it is altogether contrary to their rules and cuftom. I fay, Count Lacy proceeded through the defart ftraight for the Pericop, as BredaPs misfortune had difappointed him. He had not proceeded far when he was threatned by an army of a-bout 120,000 Turks and Tartars. The Count Ordered the regulars to form a triangle, and the irregulars to keep in the rear, and form wings to the regulars: After this manner, they proceeded to march daily, notwithstanding the enemy's great army.
At laft, the enemy proved more obftinate than formerly: Upon which, a party of irregulars went out to fkirmifh, who giving way, two or three regiments of dragoons were fent to fimport them : But, the enemy determined this day to have 2 general battle,
they
TRAVELS 221
they therefore formed themfelves into the figure of a wedge, and thus, the laft driving on the foremoft, drove our dragoons and irregulars before them, who taking fhelter behind the army left it quite expofed. A young nobleman, a court favourite, had not only been lately made a colonel, but had leave to pick out the likelieft men from the whole army: Thus he commanded the moft fightly regiment, probably in all the armies in Ruffia. Ambitious of glory, he had obtained the honour to defend the angle oppofite to the enemy; it was this regiment the Turks gallantly attacked, and quite routed by which an open pafTage was made into the center of the army. It feems, the prudent old held-marfhal forefbeing that this might happen, had accordingly placed on each fide of this infant regiment, two old veteran colonels, with regiments proud of their honour. The one was Colonel Johnfton, a Scotfman from Kenneil. The number of fears on his body received in the wars of Ruftia, was an ear-neft that he was no coward. The other, as brave, was a Ruffian; neither of them could count fewer than 70 years of age. Thefe two brave men joined their regiments, and formed the angle in the midft of the Turk-iih army; their field pieces, fmall arms, grana-des, and bayonets, making Tad havock, foon drove back thofe who were without, whilft thefe who had broken into the heart of the
army
222-       VOYAGES and
array could get out no where ; but, after a terrible maffacre, were forced to throw down their arms, and beg their lives upon their knees.
Colonel Johnfton allured me, that 15,000 prifoners were taken, (hackled, and fent to Ruffia immediately, and it was almoft irnpol-fible to number the dead, but that he believed 15,000 more had been killed. Next day, the fleld-marfiial, before the whole army, returned thanks to thefe colonels and their regiments, acknowledging, that, had it not been for their experience and bravery, the whole army would have been in the titmoft danger. Old Johnfton, with a fbl-dierrlike refolution, advifed the marfha], to order his young unexperienced officers, for the future, to be cafed up amongft die baggage ; which, it is faid, lie did not take a-mifs.
Next day, the army marched townrds the Pericop, but could not fee the enemy ail that day. Two days after this, the Turks appeared at a diftance, and encamped at night v/ithin 14 verfts of our army. Thus they continued to march, till they were within two days march of the Pericop. After the Ruffian army was encamped, and every tiling, in quietnefs, the marfhal caufed all the dragoons mount their horfes, ancj leave all their incumbrance, with the greateft iecrecy, and each of them to take a foot foldier behind him. Ke
ordered.
ordered, at the break of day, on a fignal given from the army, an attack to be made upon the Turks all at once, on three different fides of their army, at which time he would be ready to fupport them with the whole army, and inflamdy fend off the irregulars to their afiiftance. Every thing was done according to orders, with the greateft exactnefs, the Turks and Tartars were totally routed, leaving every thing to the conquerors; many were taken prifoners, nor did the Ruiiians e-ver fee them afterwards, till they arrived at the Pericop.
The following account of Count Lacy's actions at, and after taking Pericop, I had from John Baptift, a Capuchine Friar, the marshal's father conleffor, and I believe it to be true : He laid, that, three days before the Ruiiians arrived at Pericop, it had conftantly blown a perfect hurricane from the weft t That, when the camp was formed, and, as Toon as night came on, he privately fent for his priefts to adminifler the facrament to him, a cuftom he always ufed before he attempted any great action ; tliat done, with a chearful-nefs very natural to him, he ordered a glafs of wine for the priefts, and recommended them to take their reft. He then inftantly cauied a few of his belt troops to get ready, and wait his orders ; at the fame time he ordered many pieces of cannon to play againft
Pericop,
Pericop, and all the drums and mufic in the army to make as much noife as pofliblc.
He then mounted his horfe, and rode off with the cavalry formerly mentioned, Sraight to the gut of water on the call end of Pericop, part of that called Guiloi More, and went quite through it, on a hard bottom, nor was it deep.   (The Turks had before this given out, that it was bcttornlcfs, which gained fo much credit, that the Ruffians never had attempted to pafs it till that night.) The held-marfhal finding the bottom hard, returned, ordered all the regular army to be got ready, except 12,000 men, with the irregulars, drums, and mufic, which he left with orders not to move from their camp, nor leave off firing and making every other pof-fible alarm, during the darknefs of the night. In the meantime, the marfhal was fo diligent, that he fafely inarched the army and artillery through that water, without the enemy's having the leafl fufpicion of it; furdier, that the terrible fire from three batteries (which he had made in fuch hurry in the night-time, a-gainft the fouth and weakefl fide of the Pericop) carried the hrfl news of the Ruilian army's being there.   Notwithstanding the great furprife the 1 urks were in, they held out till noon, when their walls being demolished, and the Ruffians making ready for a general affault, they Surrendered themfelves prifoners of war, and that very afternoon were Shackled,
led, pinioned, and fent off to RuiTia. After this, the Count marched through all the low country, burnt Baccieliray, called by the Ruffians Buclifhezeray, and Calfa, with many either towns of fmaller note ; blew up the Pericop, and returned loaded with fpoils, pri-loners and honour, and a very great number of fine brafs and other cannon. I law fome of them with the Imperial arms of Germany upon them.
Thus the Pericop was taken, with the lofs of very few men, by the experience and wii-dom of one man, which had formerly coft the Ruffians, each time they attempted it, many thoufand brave men ; add to this, that at this time the northern walls of Pericop were much more regular and flrong, than ever they had been before the fiege.
CHAP. XLV.
A Continuation of the Suceefs of the Ruffian Anns.
COUNT Muinich marched his army thro* the defarts bordering upon Poland, from the Borifthenes to the river Nieffer, not-widitiaiiding armies of Turks and Tartars, triple his number, and all their diligence to obftrucc his march daily. He was five times 'attacked in formed battles, and beat diem each
F f time,
time, with no great lofs on his fide, but with terrible havock of his enemies.
It was late in the year before he could gain the banks of the Niefter, and, whendiere, he would have rifked much, to have, at that dine, attempted to force a paffagc, fo far from help, had he not fucceeded ; dierefbre he returned through the fouthern provinces of Poland, loaded with honour. There are a kind of Colfacks, which the Ruffians call Za-porogs ; they inhabit iflands in die river Bo-riilhenes, amongft the falls, wliich makes it extremely hazardous for any enemy to attack them. They are a ncfl cf robbers, and fometimes were under the protection of the Turks, but now are under the Ruffian government. Thefe are nothing like the Ukraine Colfacks. They have no wives, nor allow of any women hi their iflands, but have plenty on the banks of the rivers. They compare theni-felves to the Knights of Malta, by being con-flantly at war with the Turks and Tartars ; that is to fay, they live by rapine, tho' pro-fcifing the Chriiiian religion, and therefore, have a pricft or two, are the deferters, villainous fcurn, and outlaws of ail the neighbouring nations. They have laws among them-felves, and fubmit to a kind of magistracy, but what rhele laws arc, I prefume few know; and indeed it is probable, they are fo volatile, diat there can no trull be put in them, their principal glory and profefiion being to de-
j _ flroy
"ftroy mankind. It is true, diey feldom are taken prisoners, becaufe they neither take nor give quarter, and, Tin told, diat they take fome fuch oath, before they can be admitted into the community, for they have every thing in common.
The moft daring and barbarous amongft them are called Buggateers, which is a title all the Tartar nations give to heroes.
They pretend to fight only againft the Turks ; but I fhrewdly fulpect, that they make inroads into Poland, at fuch times ai-iiiming the name of Haydmaks, whole abominable cruelties we frequently are made acquainted with in the news-papers. They form a good barrier betwixt the Tartars inhabiting the weft of the Borifthenes and the Ukraine ; for if their flocks or herds come within their reach, they commonly kill the people who feed them, drive off the cattle, and fell them to the Poliih, Ruilian, or Ukraine borderers.
Complaints had been brought laft year, to Count Muinich, that 1 itndry inroads had been made by fome of his irregulars into the fbuthorn provinces of Poland ; wherefore, this year, when the whole army was aflcmblcd on the weftern banks of the Borifthenes, before they began to march, die count ordered proclamation to be made, that whoever made a-ny inroads into the kingdom of Poland, lliouid be punifhed with deadi.
Though
36 28
VOYAGES and
Though none could plead ignorance of thefe orders, yet the army had fcarccly marched four days, when complaints, well authori-fcd by one of the Polifh voivades, were received, declaring, that a fmall number of Zapo-rogi had burnt two or three villages to the ground, murdered many of the inhabitants, and carried off all their cattle.
The heid-marfhal immediately made flricb enquiry into this affair, and found it clearly proved, that two of the Zaporogi chief Bug-gateers were guilty, whom he ordered inflant-ly to be hanged, little regarding the moil ferious fbllicitations which their friends made to fpare their lives, who, at the fame time, offered the count an immenfe fum of money, if he would, but for this once, fpare them. This year they had fent 6000 men to the af-fiflance of the Ruffians, but fn ding that they would be allowed only to acl againft. the enemy, they, in a few days after this execution, withdrew, and retired to their iflands.
CHAP. XLVI.
Concerning the Succcfs of ther Rujfan Arms in the Tear 1730.
LAST year the Crim Tartars had been fo feverely handled by Count Lacy, that they made no eruptions into the Ukraine this
winter,
winter, and indeed I believe the greateft number of men able to bear arms, were either killed in battle, or made prifoners. However, the Turks fupplied them with all the help they could fpare during the winter feafon ; for they had great reafon to fear, that the Ruffians would conquer the whole Crim or Crimea, which, if they had done, would have proved moft dangerous to the Turkifh empire : For, if ever the Ruffians can mailer je-nicala and Taman, which command the ifth-mtis leading into the Palus Mceotis, they will effectually protect a fafe navigation diro' that fea ; and if their fleet fhould prove fuperior to that of the Turks, nothing can hhider dieir failing to Conftantinople. This I take to be one reafon why the Turks are fo much afraid of the Ruffians having a fleet on thefe feas, and that they conftantly deny them this liberty, by making it one of the principal articles of peace.
Donduk Ambo began early to fill the Cuban country with dreadful devaftadons; not contented with their herds and flocks, he killed or took prifoners all the Cubans who were found in arms ; but, tho' the Ukraine was, by the fuperior talents and care cf our victorious generals, fecurcd from the inroads cf the enemy, the plague made great havock, which fhall be taken notice of in its proper place. This was the caufe of our marfhal's leading out their armies fooner than formerly ; and,
tho'
2$<*       VOYAGES and
tho* they could not march till the fnow was gone, and the defarts covered with grafs, they encamped far from inhabited places.
Count Lacy marched about the beginning of June, as formerly: He foon made himfelf mailer of Pericop, and inarched to the fouth-cm parts of die Crim ; but, though he met with no considerable force to obitrucT his o-peradons, he could proceed no further, becaufe Bredal (either from the confufion his whole command was in, or from the fright he was put into laft year, or from the want of fufhcient veflels) was not in condition to bring either ammunition or provifions for the army, and the Crim Tartars fo effectually concealed their grain, that none could be got fufticient to maintain one regiment, tho' they got fome cattle. Add to this, that, though, as I faid before, the Tartars and Turks durft not give battle, yet in narrow defijes they galled our army from the heights, where neither the dragoons nor irregulars could purliie them. However, he caufed burn the towns and cides to the ground, in the countries through which he pafled, that the enemy might have other employment, during' the winter, than making inroads into the Ukraine. When he had diftrefled their country as much as poftible, lie returned early into the Ukraine, but two or three regiments had contracted the plague, and were therefore obliged
ged to encamp in the defart till they recovered, wliich was not till late in winter.
CHAP. XLVII.
A Continuation cf the Succefs of the Ruffian Arms under the Orders of Count Muinidu ,
' I *HE following narration I had from gen-J_ tlemen in the army, who were eye-wit-neiles of whatever happened. Upon die 5th or 6th of Jane, the count marched with his victorious army, well apppointed, ftraight to Chotzhn, commonly called Choczim, without meeting with any thing very extraordinary-He carried with him a good train of artillery, beiides field-pieces, and arrived on the banks of the river lCnifkoffke about the 20th inft. In the march two accidents happened, which, altho' they feem may trifling to fome, may be agreeable to others, and therefore I fhall relate them.
A lieutenant-general was loft in the defart, nor could any notice be got of Mm during the inarch of the army to Chotzhn. The o-ther was Captain Gray, born in Pruflia of Englifh parents, a good officer, and an excellent engineer. The field-marfhal ordered him to give directions for placing pontoons over the rivers, and regulating the transportation jof the battering cannon, great mortars, and
other
t>ther heavy carriages. This captain was in very great friendfhip with a French gentle-man, whole name I have forgot. The French captain was extremely good natured, lively, and gave himfelf very little trouble to think of weighty matters, or to forefec what misfortunes might happen by the lofs of a little time, even when engaged in the moft lcrious affairs. At the time when Mr Gray was bringing down a large piece of cannon from a fleep bank, which, if not managed with great fkill, would not only have killed many of the horfes, but might either have run into the river and be loft, or probably deftroy the pontoons, upon which, I fuppofe, the iafety of the army did not a little depend. Be thai as it will, wherl Captain Gray was in the greateft anxiety about the fafety of the cannon, Ids friend, the Frenchman, addreffed him with troublefome importunity about trifling affairs. Gray, after he had once or twice defired him to defift for that time, at laft, in a pafiion, uttered fome words in German, rather harfh, and the Frenchman not knowing the meaning of them, afked lome other of Ids acquaintances, who, in a ludicrous manner, informed him. After the artillery was earned lafcly over, and the army in march, the Frenchman challenged Gray to give liim fatisiaction. As nothing elfe would do, they retired privately into a neighbouring wood, and there fatisfied diemielvcs by wounding each other.
None
travels.
None of their wounds proved mortal, but the anxiety of the one for the fafety of the other, was the caufe of a coniultation of furgeons, and thus it became public.
The premier major of their regiment was an old unponflied Ruffian. He carried a report of the aifair to all his fuperiors, at lair to Count Muinich, complaining, that two officers had acted againft the regulations ; that, according to his duty, he had complained of it to all his fuperiors, from his lieutenant-colonel upwards regularly to his Excellency, and demanded, that, without lofs. of time, tills affair might be enquired into by a court-martial. The marfhal defired the major to clefift from fuch profecution, which the major flatly reftded, for many reaibns." Upon this, the marfhal kept the report, and clifmilled him, without letting him know what he intended to do. The count next fent for the officers, examined them, liimlelf, and defired,. that they would, without reftraint, tell .him, the truth. They did fo, but with this remarkable difference, that each endeavoured to perfuade the marfhal, that he only was guilty, and that his antagonifl was innocent. The marfhal Foqn learned how the affair ftood, admired their fentiinents of honour, and recommended them to moderate their paffion for the future, tliinking a few hours before they came to extremes ; and then difniifFed them, in a moft affectionate maimer.
G g Next
234      V O V A 6 E S and
Next morning early, their major and they Were lent for to the count's tent.    They had Hot waited long when he appeared, and delivered a commiflicn to each cf the captains, cxmftituting them maj ors for their honourable fervices, and then he gave the major an order to proceed from die army to Oranburgh, with exprelTcs to its governor ; and that as#ie was not young, he (hould diere officiate as a gani-fon-major, till further orders. This \va3 a bitter dole, but death would have followed difebedi-ence. Thus tliis wrong-headed man, by his fool-ifli obftinacy, was obliged inftantly to march a-Tone tlirough many defarts, moil of them in-fefted with the enemy, to the diflance of near 3000 miles, and become a garriibn-major, and probably with the hopes of no Hidden advancement.
During this march,, we were frequently in view of the enemy, who were triple our number j but, having been defeated five different times laft year, with great flaughter on their fide, and a very inconfiderable lofs on: ours, it feemed that they now defigncd to rifle all in a decilive battle near Chotzhn; and, not-withftanding their great lofs laft year, they feemed to be certain, that, without great difficulty, they would extirpate this gallant army, wliich had beaten them fo frequently ; for rhey drew up all their forces on the other fide the river Niefter, and gave the Ruflians no mcleftation whatever, though they knew that*
the
the Ruffians intended to befiege the fhrong. Jfortrefs of Chotzim, from which place they were diflant only about fix verfls. The count encamped in a very low ground, having the Turkifh, army pn the top cf a high ground in, front, and another army of Crim Nogas, and other Tartars, confifting of at leaf I 109,000 men, on a hill to cur left. The .Turkifh ai>, my, it was faid by many, confifted of 20,009. Janizaries, and 60 or 70,000 Spahis. The Ruffians took die pontoons from the river, and brought them among the baggage. At midnight, the marfhal fent off, with the greateft fecrecy, 500 of our befl granadiers, under the command of chofen captains, to a gullet in the hill, to the left cf the Turkifh army, with orders to ly concealed, till a fignal, by throwing up a rocket, fnoiild warn them to act according to the orders they had received.
Next morning the Rnflians were all in a ftir, and, after prayers, they marched with their field-pieces, and fome imaii mortars, chiefly drawn by men ; for the hiii in feme places rendered the horfes ufclefs. Thus they directed their march towards the right, and advanced till the marfhal imagined the Turkifh cannon might hurt them. Tlic Turks, not doubting that die Ruiiians Intended to gain the top of the hill there, had afTembled all their Janizaries and belt- troops ; but they Were foon undeceived, when they faw them Suddenly march with great diligence immedi-
atcly under die top of the lull to the left, towards the place where the granadiers were concealed. This unexpected movement put diem into great cliforder; for they not only had expected them to mount the hill, on the fore-mentioned place, with their bell: troops, but had pointed their largelt cannon that way, which were placed on carriages widiout wheels, fo that they were rendered almofc ufe-lefs on this occasion. Add to this, that the Turkifh camp was open near to where the granadiers were placed, that their horfe might readily march out and in as need required. In ijieir hurry they advanced to the veiy place where the granadiers were, and then the flgT nal was given, when they played their part fo well, that our field-pieces and mortal's gained the top of the hill; with thefe the Turkifh cannon were immediately defertcd,and indeed proved of no manner of ufe to them during the action.
Now, every where among the Turks there was nothing but death and confufion ; their camp was let on fire in various places; our cannon, fhiali arms, and granades, made fad havock in front, wliilft the bombs were burning and btiriling in their camp and rear. After they had loft three-fourths of their Janizaries, they fled in fuch confufion, that none entered Chotzim. The Tartars made fome feeble attempts upon our camp, but never came up in time to help the Turks;
and.
and, it was faid, they advifed them to throw every heavy thing away, alledging, that our irregulars, who were quite frefh, would foon be widi them: Whether the Turks followed their advice, is uncertain, but it is certain,* that they threw much away, fome of which our troops got, but their own Tartars got much more.
One anecdote is very remarkable. The prieft of a regiment got on horfeback, with a large brafs crofs in his hand, and rode with the foremolt of the foldiers, encouraging them to follow the crois, amhring them, that no hurt could happen to them who did fo. It is certain, that this prieft was not wounded; and it is as certain,, that he was nobly rewarded by the Emprefs ; though it is no lefs evident, that thefe gallant troops needed no fuch encouragement. It is alfo very dubious, whether many very learned men would venture, fo implicitly, as to truft to the fingular favour of heaven, amid ft the found of fo many thousand and thundering melTengers of death ?
CHAP,
CHAP. XLVIII.
/i continuation of the Succefs of the -Ruffian Anns, under the Command of Count; M/,V-rdch.
THE victorious army had now little elfe to do, but to march to Chotzim, and demand the gates to be opened : They did, fo : The ferafkicr indeed required fome hours v to deliberate, and confult with his friends, what was fafe and honourable to be done. However, the anfwer Count Muinich returned was difagreeable and determined, viz. " You (hall yourfclf bring the keys in half an hour ; if you exceed that time, not cue of the garrifon jflhall efcape death." Thus fpeke Count Muinich i and at Jame time ordered the. artillery to be brought forward in ad hafre. However, he needed not have been in Ihch a hurry, for the Turks had great; reafon to know him well,'and did not dcubt the veracity of his direats : Therefore the ferafkier, without delay, offered up the keys, with the whole garrifon at his back, who, with the reft of their countrymen and foldiers, were immediately Chadded and fent off to Kiove, under the orders cf Lieutenant-general Byron.
In tills city of Chotzim, it was faid, great trealitrcs were got; and warlike ammunition
of
of all forts, were found in the greateft abundance, and no lels than 300 brafs cannon: mounted, befides odier pieces. I have 'been: likewife informed, that here they found dieif lieutenant-general, whole name I fliall net mention, left it fhould difoblige a good antient Ruffan family. The general, no doubt, was glad to be reftored, as he dibught", to his liberty, congratulated the victorious marfhal, and returned him thanks for being die hiilru.-' merit of his relief: But diis fevere difcip'Iina-rian anfwered him, diat, according to the regulations of war, he ought to have taken better care of hinifelf than he had done, and net have expoied fo refpecTable a character as a Heuteiiaiit-geiieral to be taken priibner in Inch a manner. lie put hhn in mind, that he ought not to have 30 ne to reconnoitre the e-nemy, without a certain refpeclable number of chofeh troops, to protect him from falling' into their hands.
Therefore the marfhal remanded him back" to prifon, till a court-martial fliould determine his 1:ite, which was inftantly ordered toA fit- By their fentence, agreeable to the Ruffian articles of war, it was determined, he had forfeited all liis military honour, and therefore he was declared a dragoon, till the Emprefs's pleafure fliould be known. The fentence was jufl, and agreeable to die articles of war, therefore no favour could be granted; none was afked, fufcmaffibri took place, and he was
obliged
obliged inftantly to officiate as other dragoons, though he was a gentleman of large polleifions, and one of the principal reprcf'en-tatives of a very antient family in Ruilia. All the favour he alked of the count was, that he might have liberty to have liis unfortunate ftate reprefented, without lofs of time, to the Court. This was granted, and he difpatched one of his truftv fervants to St Peterfburdi in Augufl, at which time this affair happened. I faw liim enter Veronits with 40 or 50 attendants, in November following, in his way to St Peterfburgh, tho' only a dragoon.
The foldiers upon duty at the gates of the city paid him no refpect, wliich indeed was right, and agreeable to the articles of war; but I was grieved to hear them fay, that now, notwithftanding his great riches, he was only their brother, viz. a dragoon. However, he did not long remain in this ftation, for he was foon appointed governor of the kingdom of Kazan.
Having thus got pofteftion of this ftrong place, Wailachia and Moldavia having no troops to defend them, were at the mercy of the count; but the greateft: part of the inhabitants, being Chriftians of the Greek prpfef-fion, needed no conipulfion. They were told, and no doubt believed, that, at laft, the Ruiiians were come to free all the Chriilians in Greece from the heavy Turkifti yoke. Thus die field-marflial made an eafy conqueft as far
as
as the banks of the Danube. Some of our news-papers faid, that he conquered Bender, but tliis is a miftake, as he never pointed that way, well knowing, that if the war went on, he, next fummer, could fix liimfelf fo firmly in thefe provinces, that all the different people on the eaft woidd fubmit, without great trouble. It was confidently reported, and I believe it to be true, that Count Muinich defired only 20,000 regular troops to be added to thefe he already commanded, early in the fummer 1740, and that he made no doubt of putting her Majefty in pofteftion of C011-flantinople ; but all thefe grand fchemes and expectations fuddenly dropped, by an order from Peterfburgh, giving an account that the Emperor of Germany had made, peace with die Turks, and that the Ruffians had acceded , to the fame, and therefore requiring that the count fliould evacuate all that country, and return into Rufiia with all diligence.
He vilited the capital of Wallaehia, and carried off all the cannon. In Chotzim, Jafty, the Turkifh camp* and on the road, they got no fewer than 800 cannon, befides mortars, fee. Thefe were ail brought to Chotzim ; but, when the count received the above mentioned order, he was at a lofs what to do with fo many brafs cannon.- He at kill determined to fell them to Jewifh merchants from Poland, and was content to take at the rate of 1 i d.
H h far
per lib. only the Jews were obliged to get them broken at their own expence.
Thus tliis war ended, it leems, to the mutual fatisfaction of both nations, but to both their great lofs ; for altho' the Ruffians were every where victorious, and had conquered Wallachia, Moldavia, and all the countries lying betwixt them and the Borifthenes; tho* they every fummer gave laws to the Crim, and kept or deftroy ed many of their ftrong places, while their diftrelTed inhabitants were glad to fly to the mountains; tho* they had al-moft totally extirpated the inhabitants of Cuban, taken and deftroyed Afoph, Pericop, Otchakoff, Chotzim, and many other cities; and laflly, tho' they had defeated the Turkifh armies at all times, with incredible flaughter, and had fent into Ruftia innumerable thou-fands of prifoners, and brought home very great riches ; yet, by die peace, molt of their conqucfts were given up.
If now we balance their loftes, we may have a juft idea of the truth of what I faid above. By the peace they got fome more defart to the weft of the river Borifthenes and fouth of Poland, than they had formerly. Reafon, however, fhows this acquifition to be of no value to the Ruffians, who already have, in their own Empire, more uninhabited country* than, moderately fpeaking, the *one half of Europe. The next and only advantage they got, was to deftroy Afoph, and render it a defart; but then all commerce betwixt
twixt the: two empires mud be tranfported in Turkifh veflels. It is true, that the Ruffian$ have nothing to liinder them (if another war fliould happen) from marching directly into Cuban.
Tho* the Ruffians did not lofe many men in battle, yet it cannot be denied, that they loft great numbers by fatigue, want of water, travelling thro' thefe fcorching defarts, and by the plague. Tho' all care was taken to keep thefe lofTes fecret, yet I fhall give one reafon why I fay fb : The armies acting on the Ukraine and againft the Turks, I com* pute not to have exceeded i 20,000 men in all. In the year 1738 thefe armies were recruited with 50,000 men, and in the year 1739 with 100,000 men ; add to thefe, the devaluation made by the plague in the Ukraine. I do not pretend to aftert any number. I fhall only inftance Paveloffke, and a large village, diflant from it 20 verfts, In. the former, I was credibly informed, that no lefs than 50,000 people died, and in the latter, wliich was only 1 o verfts diftant from I-korits, where Prince Golitzin commanded 30,000 men for building veiTeis, I was allured, that the plague carried off at leaft 20,000 men : Fnit how inconliderable are thefe two tow:is in comparifon of the whole Ukraine ? In the year 1739, Dr Miniatty, who was ex-prcfsly fent to the Ukraine, to give neceflary .directions about this formidable difeafe, and
infpect
infpect every fufpected place, made the number of dead lb incredible, that I fhall not repeat what he laid, although he was a man of great veracity and honour. Add to this, that what he faid was in confidence that I fhould not Ipeak of it to his prejudice, which now J do not, becaufe he is dead.
At prefent the Ruffians have it not in their power to act againft the Turks by lea, becaufe the bar at Afoph is not deep enough to float large fhips, which was the reafon that Peter the Great was at fo much expence, after he had dcmolifhed Afoph, in building Tagen-rook. He was afterwards obliged to rcflore Afoph, and fill up, and othcrways render ufe-lefs the fine new made harbour Tagenrook, by the fatal agreement at Pruth. When a new war fhall happen betwixt them, I have fome reafon to believe, that the Ruffians will apply all their power and fkill to conquer the two fides of the ifthmus leading from the Pains Mceotis into the Black Sea. If ever they mould become mailers of this, then Conflan-tinople will be in imminent danger, and, I imagine, the Crim will iiifrantly beg to be their tributaries, becaufe they can be in no iafety otherways.
If the Ruffians fhould ever get poffciTion of that ifthmus, they can bring to it fhips of as great burthen as any in Europe. They have ^iich great plenty of timber growing on the banks of the Don, that they might build
10,000
10,000 fhips of the greateft force; and, if they have good officers, the natives make excellent failors ; and, where money is, officers will not be long a-wanting. Then they may command commerce at die walls of Conftan-tinople, and if that fhould ever happen, how far it might prove beneficial to Ruftia, and fafe to our Levant company to carry their Turky trade that way, I am not politician e-nough to determine ; but one thing I am certain of, and that is, that there feems to be no danger from pirates in the Baltlck; that the expence of carriage, if rightly managed, betwixt Peterfburgh and Taverhoff, will be very fmall, and from thence, by the Don to A-foph in barks, can be but trifling. Moreover, the Ruffians know their intereft too well, ever to be againft a project, wliich would undoubtedly be of advantage to them in many relpects. The obfervations I have here made may amufe, but cannot greatly difob-lige the reader. Schemes, every way more extraordinary, have been projected, and, when all difadvantages have been fully underflood and known, have yet proved of lingular utility to our country*
The Ruffians can build no vefTeis of force upon the Dnieper or Borifthenes ; becaufe it would be quite impoftible to tranfport them through the cataracts where the Zaporogi live, and, they have neither woods nor inhabitants
bitants on cither fide of the river, betwixt thefe cataracts and the Black lea.
CHAP. XLIX.
Concerning the nature of the climate, and difeafes properly endemical, vAth the Author's opinion of the caufes.
TO make tliis chapter the lefs difagree-able to my readers of all kinds, I acquaint them, that I fhall enter no farther upon this fubject, than only fiiperfi-cially to touch upon what is propofed above, that it may be of fome ufe both to people e-ducated in the medical profeifion, and alio to thofe who may travel into thofe pails. - About the middle of March, the weather was temperate, and continued fo till May, when the heat increafed confiderably; and June •began with rain. July was more itrcne, fel-dom any fhowers, but exceftively hot, the heat and drought increafed till the latter end of Augufl: After that, the air was gradually colder with rain till the month of October, or beginning of November, when froft lets in. Let it he obferved about the evenings, after the fun was let, thick ftinking fogs arofe from the morals and woods conftantly through the whole -fummer : After the high waters proceeding from the melted fnow and ice were
quite
quite gone, and the waters were confined within their own proper banks, and as the neat came on, a thick fcum appeared on the ftagnating waters only, and increafed with the heat and length of the fummer: in Au» guff I mealured them, and, in waters fur-rounded with trees, I found them to meafure four or live inches deep. Add to this, that in veiy hot calm weather, diey produced a veiy difagreeable ftinking fmell. In March, the f how had no fooner difappeared than a thoufand delightful beauties arofe out of the defart, but the morafles and low grounds were covered with waters till the middle of May CL S. then indeed, they appeared like a veiy rich garden, exhibiting to our fight and fmell abundance of different flowers. Here the lily of the valley grows in fuch abundance, that I queflion if all the gardens in Britain can produce fo many as one fquare mile of Taverhoff morals. They produce, as I faid before, many other ufeful and pleafant vegetables ; in the day time, one is charmed with the pleafant notes of finging birds, fuch a9 blackbirds, thrufhes, larks, fee. in the night, the nightingales have frequently diverted me from fleep. June produces great flocks of water-fowl; the end of July produces fruits, fuch as water-melons, a variety of different melons, fee. but as no gentlemen live here conflantly, there are none of our European fruits cultivated.     Satisfied  with a
few
few flowers and pot-herbs, during the fhort dme, they wifh to refide in fb very unhealthy a climate ; health is only wanted to jnake Taverhoff one of die molt delightful places in die world.
Endemical difeafes, the two years I rcfid-ed here, did not make their appearance till the beginning of July, at which time, intermittent, remittent, flow fevers were very rife, and increafed till near the end of this month, when they decreafed till the latter end of Au-guft, and the remittent, flow fevers difap-peared: But die regular intermittent fevers were more obftinate than before tliis, and fluxes of all kinds accompanied them till the beginning of October, when, as the winter drew on, they difappeard, and gave place to pleurifies, peripneumonies and inflammatory difeafes of all kinds, which alfo difap-peared when the frofl was continual, and the waters were frozen over. Above, I have only ipoken of diefe difeafes wliich make their appearances near a fixed time of the year, which I obferved, and noted down the very dates two years fucceffiveiy.   I was alfo informed, that they always raged, whether in time of war or peace, much in the fame way, but proved more obftinate and fatal to flran-gers than to inhabitants. In the hot months, malignant,  putrid, petechial, eryfipelatous fevers made their appearances in the moft formidable maimer, during the two years I
was
Was there : But at the fame time, I was informed that they neither appeared with fuch violent rapidity, nor in fuch numbers in time of peace: Therefore, I do not rank them widi die former, but they put on, in the 1739, fuch horrid appearances that I was-uncertain if we were quite free of the plague, as will prefently appear.
In the year 1739, Mr Rofen the furgeon of the hofpital, (Mr Bourman being dead) fent for me to vifit the hofpital. At my arrival, he told me a patient was brought from I-korits with very uncommon lymptoms, and therefore, he had fent for me to confuit what was to be done, and how we were to act. This patient, a failor, was carried into the ward where malignant putrid fevers were taken care of. He had been lick the third day, was covered all over with fmall black petechia:, and his tongue and mouth, as far as we could obferve, with a thick black fur: his pulfe was fcarcely fometimes to be obferved, at other times very irregular, with a fuhfultus tendimim. He had loft all fenfes whatfoever ; his eyes were inflamed, but appeared rather of a livid than a red colour. He paffed urine and excrements without any perception. At Ikorits, he had been blooded, vomited, and his back, arms, and legs were bliftered, of which he had no manner of feeling. As the plague raged with great violence in Pavelofske and the foremen-
I i tioncd
tioned village, I fcnipled not, though I had never feen that difeafe, to pronounce it to be the plague: The lick man, and every thing belonging to him, was carried into a little ward, where maniacs had been formerly kept, now vacant." Ami as the weather was extremely warm and no wind, I ordered the windows of die fick wards to be kept open through the day, and the floors and bed-cloaths of the fick to be fJM'inkled frequently "with vinegar, and alfo morning and evening, and die wards univcrfally to be well fumigated with fragrant gums, of which we were allowed great plenty.
As all hopes of recovering the patient from Tkorits wTerc loft, I advifed diat drink fhould be frequently given him with antifeptic medicines, and that he fliould ke kept as clean as poilible ; and laflly, that the man appointed to attend him, fhould have no intercourfe either; with the men in the hofpital, or elfe-where in the city. I prognofticated that he would foon die, and he did fo tliat very day. At night, the body was carefully carried out to the defart, and buried deep in the ground: His bed, bed-cloaths, and every thing elfe belonging to him, were burnt. The people, who were appointed to do this, kept as far on the windy fide as poftiblc, and none were allowed to touch any thing, but the peribn who had waited upon him when living, and they who brouglit liim, were obliged to ftay
their
their quarantine in the defart, where victuals were regularly carried to them. Three per-fons were in this manner brought from Ikorits, before inflructions and orders could be lent there to prohibit this practice. They liad all the fame fymptoms, were treated much in *he fame manner, and they all died.
As foon as Mr Rofen and I had taken all the precautions hi our power, we went to Captain Ruffelius, and acquainted him with what we had obferved, and what we had done, and hinted to liim wrhat we thought ought to be done. The captain was of opinion, that, notwithstanding the Prince at this time was not in good health, he ought to be made acquainted widi every thing, becaufe Jiis orders would have a better effect, and would be rei peeled at a greater diftance. We accordingly made the Prince acquainted with it, and he immediately caufed me get ready inflructions, till directions could be procured' from the Medicine Chancery, which had forgotten to give me any about the plague. I immediately obeyed, and the Prince from this iffued out die following orders.
Mr Ruffelius immediately difpatched a fe-cret memorial to die governor of Veronits, requiring liim to take all care of his province, and fent liim a copy of the prince's orders to all immediately under liis command, which were, prohibiting all people, under pain of death, to go from Taverhoff to any other city, town,
or
$52      VOYAGES aitd
or inhabited place, without liberty from the Prince's Chancery, and likewife any people from other places to enter Taverhoff, or its dependencies; and that thefe orders might meet with all obedience without miilakes, ■centinels were placed about the city day and night.   He required that no flefh or fifth fhould be made ufe of, till further advice ; but that, in cafe difeafed people were advifed by any of the faculty to ufe fuch food, it was recommended that fuch fhould ufe either vinegar,  lemon-juice, or odier acid vegetables, to wliich they were formerly accui-tomed ; that, under pain of a fevere whipping, the inhabitants fhould keep their houfes fweet and clean, open their windows through the whole day, and fprinkle their floors and bed-cloaths   with vinegar;   that the poor fliould get vinegar from the Emprefs's flores.
That, if any dead animal was found in the flreets, or any where near the houfes, die fuperintendant fliould be feverely punifhed; and that, if it could be made appear, that any, after thefe orders were publifhed, from carelefsnefs, or any other caufe, did not immediately bury all dead animals, even to the bignefs of a cliicken, deep in the defart, they fhould be punifhed with the Knout! That the priefts, who always attend burials, fhould take all care that the graves fhould be at leaft feven foot deep ; that, in every flrect, there fhould be kept day and night, pieces of
fir,
fir, wet flraw, with pitch or tar fmoaking, till further orders. Their times of working, althletick exercifes, and other diverfions, were alfo regulated.
The fame orders were fent to Ikorits, with thefe only differences, that it was flrictly ordered they mould fend no lick to 1 averhoff, but form an hofpital apart to receive fuch as were infected with thefe fymptoms accoimted dangerous, and that the attendants upon them fhould have no communication whatfoever with other people, till further orders : That what exprefles might be fent to Taverhoff, fliould be enjoined not to offer to come near any people on the road, nor in the city Taverhoff, but that they fliould approach the city from that part oppofite to the wind; and there, from as great diftance as poffible, to acquaint the foldier on duty with his orders. A writer at fuch times went, and, in the defart, on the windy fide, took a copy of fuch difpatches, which were immediately burnt. Laflly, a line of foldiers was formed quite round the people in Ikorits, and high gibbets built on thefe lines, to let flrangers and others fee their danger, if they pafled them, for the law would inflantly have been put in execution.
From whatever caufe, whether from the immediate protection of heaven, or from thefe regulations having been flriclly obeyed, I fhall not difputc, but certainly I faw no
more
rnorc of thefe terrible fevers : Some indeed appeared in Ikorits, but, confidering the number of people there, and its vicinity to the before-mentioned infected places, it is truly furprifing that we efcaped fo very well.
From the fituadon of 1 averhoff, its being furrounded with moraffes, lakes, large woods, and reeds, with what I have faid already about the extraordinary heat and moilture, and the fthiking exhalations towards die e-venings, from the flagnant waters in the lakes, it will furprif e none, ever fo little ver-fant in medicine, diat the folids of the human body fhould be rendered very weak, by being, through fo many months, as it were fie wed, the fecretory and excretory faculties perverted, concretions, obfh-uctions, and vifcofities in die fluids nourifhed, and daily increafed, digcflion much impaired : diefe I take to be the true caufes of the endemical difeafes. The metliod of curing them is, in promoting the evacuations, to perfect regularity, attenuating the vifcous humours, and expelling the morbid; and laflly, in corroborating the folids, and for fome dme diercaftcr all if l-ing them to recover their natural tone, I ima-agine is a good proof of the caufe.
But there is another undeniable one; which is, that peafants, having no afliflancc from the phyiician, who fall into thefe difeafes, and have the good fortune not to die, generally remain fick during the hrit fummer ; but
when
when winter comes on, and their folids are rendered ftrong by the froft, die difeafe is conquered ; and tliis natural cure,, when it happens, is undoubtedly the moft certain. I ihail fay nothing more about the method of curing thefe different difeafes, as quite foreign to this defign, only I can allure phyficians, that iieceflity caufed us to make trial of monk's rhubarb in place of Chinefe; and, if it be given in a double or even a triple dole, it comes nothing behind the other in fluxes. Another medicine I can fcarcely pais by, which is ^vitrum    ceratum    antimonii.      It    lias a greater effect  upon people almoft worn out  with  either a diarrhoea or dyfente-ry, providing the greater glands of the abdomen are not ulcerated, than it has upon rebuff, young men juft feized with this difeafe. I have known people, in the opinion of phyficians of the greateft experience, paft all hopes of recovery, effeclually, and in a very fhort time, quite recovered by two or three dofes of this noble medicine, with proper analep-sicks after its ufe.   This digrelfion, tho' fhort, may be ufeful to fome, and can hurt none.
cha p.
CHAP. L*
Concerning various Anecdotes during my two Years Peregrination in and about Taverhoff.
IRemained in die houfe that I got from Capt. Hertzenbergh till May, veiy much to my fatisfactiom The Prince had a veiy numerous family, and, when they got notice that it was determined that the fuperinten-dency of the building fliould be in TaverhofF, the Princefs arrived there, in the beginning of May, with her children. They were not long there till fome of them began to fall lick. The Prince and Princefs were both of them the befl of parents, extremely fond of their children, and had the art of bringing them up without any fevere treatment, in the moft agreeable manner. His fons had a governor, and liis daughters a governefs. The fons llept altogether in one large room, each in a ftparate bed, and their lifters in another, with their governefs, in the fame manner.
They rofe at ftated hours in die morning, paid their devotions, were dreffed, took their meals, went to fchool and their diveriions, daily. In fhort, I never knew fuch a large family fo well educated, and under an equal ceconomy. They had feven cliildren, four fons and three daughters, at the Princef s's arrival;
and
and flie was delivered of a fifth fon in Taverhoff, who was her laft. This great and antient family is derived from one of the moft illuftrious in Poland. Their firft appearance in Ruilia, was in the tyrant Ivan Vafilovitch's tinier they were created Dukes of Novogorod Velike, and to this day bear the arms of that province. My Prince and liis Princefs commanded refpecl from the greateft people, by then- eafy fweet deportment. I'm certain they had the beft whiles and fervices I could polfibly do them, out of pure principle. I never knew a family that in the leaft could be ccmoared to them.
ST
As I faid before, fome of the Princefs*s children fell fick foon after her arrival ; and, it teems, the Prince had loft 15 fervants by ficknefs laft year, which frightened them much. They therefore defired that I would-live with the adjutant, telling me, that, in that cafe, I fhould have nothing to provide, either for myfelf, fervant, or horfe. I could deny them notliiug, and therefore acquieiced, net* withstanding 1 forefaw, that fome difference might happen betwixt the adjutant and me ; nor was I mil taken ; for, one day, when he and I were both abient, the lock of my delk was picked, and 30 crowns taken away. My fervant was widi me; and, as I had driven to Veronits, I needed pocket-money, and took fome out in the morning, when my cafli was fafc. At my return, I put up what I had in my K k pocket,
pocket, and thus made the difcovery. In order to deceive me, he (the adjutant's fervant) had not taken all. He being prefent, I eenfurecl him for it; he denied, and returned reproachful anfwers, which obliged me to beat liim. This certainly was wrong : His mafter took it highly amifs, notwithftanding I acknowledged my error to liim. He not only did not forgive this rafhnefs caufed by provocation, but took the rogue's part fo far, as to give me names, which I retorted, and indeed fcarcely could refrain myfelf from linking liim. This he wanted much, but I retired. At my return, I learned, that he had complained to the Prince, requiring that a court-martial fliould determine our difpure, alledging, that I had challenged him. The Prince made enquiry ; I told liim as above, and faid, that I had not challenged him, but only contended that he durft not give me fuch language at a diftance from witnelfes : I faid, I knew he fcarcely had a foul a degree above a flieep's ; and therefore it would have been a fign of great folly in me to challenge fuch a milk-fop as he. I defired the Prince to let the court-martial proceed, demonftrating, that, as he was the firft: aggrefTor, and had learned me to ufe fuch words, the fignification of fome of them I Was ignorant of, I certainly fliould be juftifi-ed, and recover the money liis fervant had ftolen fi-om me.
That
TRAVELS 25Q
That the Emprefs had 350,000 good foldiers, each of which fhe coidd make an officer every jot as good as BalotnicofF ; but that it would prove a little difficult to create one cf Tiny profeftion out of them all. I faid a great deal more ; to all which, the Prince defired diat I would for tliis once put it up. I yielded, and immediately Balotnicoff was fent for, and commanded that he fliould never dare to give me the fmalleft provocation after this, under the penalty of being inftantly fent to A-foph, wliich was very near as horrible to him as hell itfelf. Thus ended tliis difpute, nor had I any other in Taverhoff, with this advantage to me, tliat I got an agreeable apartment in the palace; the Prince made up my lofs, and the Princefs ever after, until I was married, was my caffo-keeper.
The above-mentioned difeafe ran like wild fire through tliis moft noble family ; but, to my great fatisfacYion, not one of them died. However, in the year I739» die good Prince was at once affected with a fever and bloody flux. As I never loved man equal to him, my conftant attendance, without fleep for nine days and nights, except in an elbow-chair at his bed-fide for half an hour at a time, had almoft deprived me both of my appetite and flrength. My old friend Dr Miniatty, an acquaintance of the Prince's, came in his way from the Ukraine to Veronits; I therefore begged pf liim that lie wpuld attend the Prince,
tai
till I fhould get a fleep in my bed ; but when I had only laid myfelf'down a very fhort time, I was feized with the incubus, a difcaie I never had experienced before. I attempted thrice to get reft, and thrice I was attacked with this dreadful difeafe, which put fleep quite from me. I then put on my cloaths, told what had happened, and let the doctor pafs on to Veronits.
In a few days thereafter, the Prince grew fomewhat better, but recovered very flowly ; and, after he was quite free of this flux and fever, he was threatened with a dropfy. There were few parts of his body free of what is called ana fare a, but his legs were worfe, attended With fuch coldnefs, that it was almoft impofli-ble to make him fenfible of heat. It took my greateft fkill to recover him during the length of the fummer ; but at laft it was fb fuccefs-fully accomplifhed, that Pm told he only died at St Petersburgh laft year, betwixt 80 and 90 years old, full of honour, wliich he truly de-ferved : He was then lord high admiral, fe-nator, privy-counfellor, and knight of the order of St Andrew, the firft Ruftian order.
Before I leave this fubject, I fhall give one inftance of the Prince's juftice: When he was in fuch an uncertain ftate of health, and as I did every thing in my power for his recovery, I advifed him, among other things, to go to a pleafant village about two miles diflant from Taverhoff, called Shilofke, fitu-
ated on the top of a high diy ground, and a mile at leafl from any woods, except thofe in die morafs betwixt Taverhoff and it, whence the vapours feldom or never afcended fo high ; and was well watered with a fountain of fpring water, as clear as chryflal-
One day as I waited on the Prince, I faw in the entry a very well behaved man, gen^ teelly dreffed. He was the more remarkable, as he had on a fuit of fhperfine cloaths in the Englifli fafliion. The next time I waited upon the Prince, tliis man was fitting at the door upon a heavy clog of wood, to which he was chained by the neck. As die Prince Was fo far from hindering me to make inquiry, that he took all opportunities of encouraging me, I hciitated not to a{k him the reafon of treating a man fo ignominioufly. He faid, that the late Field-marfhal Prince Golitzin had made a prefent of liim, when about nine years of age, to my Prince : That, as he efleemed the memory of his brother, he had fpared no expence in making him mafter of writing and arithmetick ; and that, as he was a Crim Tartar by birth, he had liim baptifecl, and married to a very pretty, modefl, young woman, by whom he had a numerous family. As he had done ib much for him, he appointed him his factor over many villages, and that he had behaved very well till the Prince was fent from Peterfburgh, when he imagined him-feif at liberty to act as he pjeafed, poifibly expecting
pecting that the Emprefs would take the vib lages from the Prince : That a petition was fent to him fome time ago, acquainting him, that this fellow had abfolutely ruined fome hundreds of people, and that, upon a fair inquiry, he found it was true : That by the laws of the country, he fliould be hanged, or, at leaft, fent to the galleys for life ; but diat he would punifli him in this manner. He faid, diat he had already appointed another factor, with orders to take every thing from this villain, and make reflitudon to the peafants as far as was poilible. *
He alfo had ordered a certain maintenance for his wife and cliildren, with orders to have the children carefully educated ; but this fellow fliould undergo a fevere whipping, and then to be fent to the villages, to write under the new factor, to whom orders were given to let no fault go unpunilhed ; and laftly, that if it was found out that he had not made a clear difcovery of ail the value he had, he would be fent to the galleys for life ; whereas, if he had made a clear difcovery, he fliould remain in the village; and, if he behaved well for the future, he had a chance of being again promoted, and freed from liis chains.
CHAP.
CHAP. LI.
A Continuation of uubat happened remarkable in Taverhoff, early in the Summer 1748.
AN old acquaintance Mr Rofen, a furgeon, defigned for Afoph, arrived in Taver-hoif.   Mr Burman was unable to perform his duty in the hofpital, and fo very weak, that we could have no hopes of liis living much longer.   Mr Rofen and I had lived in great friendfhip.   He ui'ed to interpret for me in the hofpital at Peterfburgh, as he fpoke Latin well, confequently no wonder I was glad to fee him ; I therefore, finding it not difa-greeable to Mr Rofen, projected a fcheme of getting him kept at Taverhoff.   I applied to the Prince, reprefenting die dangerous flate of Mr Bunnan's health, and the impoflibility of my attending the bufinefs of the hofpital daily, and that of his great command, at the lame time, only with the affiftance of two mates.   This had the defired effect, and Mr Kofen was appointed to attend the hofpital, and this was foon confirmed by orders from the medicine-chancery and admiralty. It may appear fcarcely credible, but it is neverthelefs true, that I was greatly at a lofs to fpeak Latin with Mr Rofen at our firft meeting, frequently interlarding with it either Ruffian or German
words.
26*4       VOYAGES and
words. After I had got an apartment in die palace, where the writes? were employed daily, I applied myfelf to learn to read and write the Ruffian language, and it was altogether owing to this, that I was before lb confined. I knew one Peter Miln, who had been nine years keeping the books for Mr Dimicleof j belonging to his great iron-works in Siberia, and who, at his return to St Peterfburgh, could not {peak Englifli.
Mrs Luggar, a lieutenant's widow, arrived in Taverhoff from Afoph, in the latter end of Auguft 1738, in her way to St Peterfburgh. Some days paffed before I could lpeakEnglilh promptly, and without confounding it with other languages.   At Afoph flie had petitioned Admiral Bredal to pay her widow-money, which that bale man denied, and fhe was in fome diflrefs.   She was old, but infilled that flie was marriageable, and capable of bearing children.   I fuppofe fhe infilled upon riiis, that flie might at once get a complete year's falary, viz. the fum of 290 rubles.   I begged of her rather to acknowledge that flie was fu-perannuated, that fhe might get her widow-money paid yearly, wliich (as flie had no thoughts of returning to England) would be a certainty as long as fhe lived, and great a-bundance in flich a cheap country as tliis ; but flie infilled to have the large fum at once, for the before-mentioned reafons, and three years after diat, I law her in St Peterfburgh
married
married a fecond time. In fhort, I ufed all my intereft with the Prince, and fucceeded in getting her money, and, at her defire, bought her a very convenient houfe, and did every other thing in my power to ferve her; fo glad was I of having one in the place with whom I could fpeak my native language.
Tliis old woman had a daughter married in the neighbourhood to an officer. She alfo arrived in November to fee her mother, and acquainted us, not without fatisfaclion, that her hufband, a Ruflian, was dead, by whole death flie had acquired a third of his cflate, wliich was not great. It feems he had ufed her with great feverity, but I fufpecT that there Were faults on both fides. Mr Rofen made his addreffes to her. As we ever lived in good fiiendfliip, he firft made his propofals to me, and defired my afliftance, providing I was not engaged with her. I allured him, I was already verbally engaged to another hi St Pe-teriburgh, and, unlefs fhe married in my ab-fence, I did not think myfelf at liberty to make fuit to any other perfon. I declined giving liim any counfel in an affair of fuch confequence ; but, at the fame time, offered my ready fervice to affifl him, if he was fully refolved. He faid he was; wherefoie I allifl-ed, and the marriage was foon confummated to the fatisfacYion of both parties.
In the beginning of the winter 1 730, an accident happened at Veronits, wliich alarmed
L 1 the
the inhabitants of that city and all their neighbours, the mentioning of which, I doubt net, will be agreeable to the reader, becaufe it lets us fee what mifchief may be produced from ignorance, or a miftake in time of the plague. A woman arrived in Veronits from fome diftance, but from a healthy place well attefted. As Ihe had come from a diftance, ihe delired to ufe the bagnio, very cuftomaiy among the Ruffians after much fatigue. After Ihe had wafhed herlelf,, and taken a plentiful flipper,, fhe flept in die hot-houfe. Next morning ill-- was found dead ! The landlord A\as obliged to acquaint the governor, before he durft bury her* The governor had lent off his only gamibn-furgeon, fome time before this, to aifift the inhabitants of Paveluffke ; confequendy he had none to direct liim in this affair. The field-apothecary lived in Veronits, to be near the army, and prepare medicines for all people in the fervice, in diat neighbourhood. He hnd formerly been afflicted with the plague, and his wife had died of this difeafe the third time flie was feized with it; which may be fufficient to undeceive thofe who imagine that the plague, like the fmall pox, afflict perfons only once in their lives.
The governor having no other belonging to the medical affair, ordered the apothecarv to vifit the dead body, and report whatever was oblervahle, and what was liis opinion.
He
He did fq, and reported that fhe had died of •the plague, becaufe flie had a great" buboe in one of her groins. Upon this the governor caufed :fimt *he city, and declare it unclean, denying any intercourfe between the inhabitants and thofe of other parts : At the fame time, he fent an exprefs to Taverhoff, t to acquaint the Prince of the misfortunate condition of the inhabitants of Veronits, requiting the ailiflance of a furgeon from thence. In return, the Prince expreffed his farrow for their misfortune, but would not allow any of his medical people to go to their ailiflance, becaufe he was uncertain how foon we might be in the fame condition,, adviiing him to fend for proper afliflance to Mofcow, and difcharging him to fend any more to Taverhoff. It happened that fame day in the e-vening, that two lbrgeon's mates, hi their way from Mofcow to the arniy, demanded admittance into the city, which the foldier upon duty denied, acquainting them of their mife-rable condition.
The mates intended to have gone round the city to the next village, for ircfli horfes, rejoicing that they could lb cafily efcape fuch danger; but an officer was upon duty, and being informed what diey were, demanded that they fliould wait at the gate till the governor was made acquainted; telling them, that .they probably would be obliged to return, if th:y went further.   The governor was very
glad to converfe with fnch people, demanded their immediate attendance in his houie ; and acquainted them with what he knew, had done, and what he dreaded. They faid, that they never had feen that difeafe, but acknowledged that they had read about it, and that th^y alfo had heard feveral lectures by Dr Blu-mentrofe, phyiician, by the Great Hofpital in Mofcow, concerning it, and the various methods of cure. In fhort, the governor defired them to take their repole, and next morning caufe the body be taken out of the grave, infpect. it very carefully, and make an accurate report of whatever they might difco-vcr. They did lb ; found the buboe ; but, making a ftricter fearch than the apothecary had clone, found cut other fymptoms, which determined them to report that the woman had not the fmalleft fign of the plague, but that the buboe and fome other fymptoms were venereal, and that the woman had been fuf-focated in the bagnio, an event which is not alarming, and wliich frequently happens in Ruffia, from the carelefsnefs of the people who heat it, and clofe it up before the coals are thoroughly burnt to charcoal. They alfo obferved, that the buboe was completely fuppu-rated, a circumftance which could not have happened, if flie had been infected with the plague, efpecially as they had opened the buboe, and declared it was full of well concocted matter.
This
Tliis their report gave univerfal joy to the city and the adjacent country ; but the poor apothecary was much and juflly expofed, for his ignorance and prefumption.
CHAP. LII.
A Continuation of the fame Subjefi.
FOUR officers had been appointed by Admiral Bredal to iuperintend the works at Ikorits, before Prince Golitzin arrived ; three of them were Ruffians, and the other a German. It feems die Ruiiians had let from the work, under pretence of licknefs, fee. the peafants, who were lent from different provinces to afiill in getting veflels ready for the ufe of the army. They had taken money from each peafant, to the value of fome rubles, in order to let them go home. This undoubtedly was a very great crime hi Ruflia, where no per-quifites whatever are allowed, except their falary, fervants, provifion, rations, and forage, according to their ranks. By the articles of war, crimes of diis nature are punilhabie by death.
The German had, as he told me, taken only two or three men to aflifl in making a coach for him : Thefe were their crimes. Admiral Bredal, an exccllively proud man, ha- 0 ving been made acquainted widi diefe affairs,
lent
fent for them, and, I was affured, defigncd only to chide them : He did fo ; but one named Chiricoff, a lieutenant, a very rich man, and eveiy whit as proud as his commander, could not bear die admiral's taunts : He veiy unfeafonably retorted with a great deal of virulence : The confequence was, that Chiricoff was arretted, and a court-martial con-vcened to judge of this affair. He was found guilty, and, not willing to fuffer alone, he accufed the others, who were alfo found guilty.    Sentence of death was palled upon them all.    They had remained under arrefl, upon half pay, three years, and doubted not but they would get a pardon, as Chiricoff was of an honourable family, and had great alliances : But they could not agree among thcm-felves; and, as they only law one another at church, they were foolifh enough to fcold there.   Captain Ruffelius was importuned by the priefls to reprefent this, which he could not deny.   He not only reprefented it, but alfo begged that the admiralty would either order them to Peterfburgh, or free him from any accufation which might be brought a-gainft liim for not keeping better order, which he affirmed was not in liis power.   In anfwer to this, the ultimate fentence was font, confirmed by the Emprefs, commanding tliat they, without lofs of time, fliould be brought to the parade, and there have their fwords broken over their heads by the Iiands of the
hangman,
TRAVELS, 27i
hangman, and be declared infamous *■ that they fliould be fhackled, and fent, under a guard to Oranburgh, to the galleys for life ; and laflly, that all their eflates and other riches mould be forfeited to the Emprefs. This fentence was foon put in execution; but, by the humanity of the captain, not with the greateft rigour, for horfes, carriages, cloaths, and many other things, were let go for the ufe of their wives and relations. At the fame time, fome writers, who have no rank in the army, were feverely whipt and fent to the galleys, becaufe they knew, and did not discover, the villainy of the officers.
At this time alfo an affair happened, which put me in a great fright, and was the caufe of laughter to the Prince and others. The archbiftiop of Veronits was taken ill of a fever, wrote to the Prince, and begged that he would lend me to give the apothecary directions how to cure him. I had been bad for a loiig time of a tertian ague and bloody flux, which, though fomething better, had reduced my flrength very much. The Prince came into my room, told me of the archbiftiop's ficknefs and defire, but at the fame time faid, that, though fcarcely any thing could give him greater pleafure than to be obliging to the bifhop, yet he would not defire me to go, tuilefs I thought I coidd do it with fafety. Not being able to deny that good man any thing, I confenced, and fent to Mr ChiricofF
for
for the loan of his large fur-coat, to defend me from the cold.    It was at my return from Veronits, that I heard the fentence was to be put in execution next day.   I was much afraid, when I was told that every thing was to be taken from them, that my having borrowed liis furred coat, might have been interpreted mucli to my diladvantage, efpecially as it was very coflly, the fur alone being fable ; therefore, without lofs of time, I fent it to liis houfe, and then expreffed my fears to the fe-cretary, who laughed at me, as did every one who heard of it, faying, that if I had kept it, tho' all the courts in Peterfburgh had known, it would not have been looked upon as any way criminal, as I had got it before the fentence was publicly declared : However, the Satisfaction I had in the quietnefs and peace of my mind, wTas, I think to this clay, much preferable to it, if it had been of far greater value.
When the Prince ftaid at Shiloffke, I ufed, after I had vilited my patients, frequently to divert myfelf with my fowling-piece upon the banks of the rivers Don and Veronits: One day I came up to a man who wasfilhing,and, afldng him what fport he had got, and talking with liim, I underflood that he was blind, had loft liis right leg and thigh, and his left foot; being a poor young peafant, I gave him fome money, and defired that he would give me an account of the caufe and cure.   He faid,
that
that fome years ago he was taken ill of a violent fever, that thefe members already named had dropt from him ; laflly, that lie at the fame time had lofl liis fight, but that God was his only doctor. He faid the neighbours had kept liim clean, and had applied to the ulcerated parts only the leaves of green kail, or bur-dock, made foft before the fire : That, after he had recovered his health, he got a fmall boat, and ufed to go to fifli with his neighbours ; but that now, he was fo well acquainted with die banks of die Veronits, that he frequently went fome miles from the village, and was the principal fiftier in it, by which lie had got a very good livelihood ; as for riches, he defpifed them. I mention this to let people fee that nature, when left to herfelf, fometimes makes incredible cures; and I imagine it may be of ufe to intelligent 'honeft furgeons, to be veiy careful how and when they perform operations ; for, in the courfe of my practice, I have known people loft by ignorant daring furgeons.
I fhall give an inftance of nature's having performed a cure, when the patient would have been loft if another niethod had been taken, and this may be of ufe to all my readers. It was this: A fail or was brought to the hofpital. He was very feverifh, an cryfi-pelas had fprcad over the fkin of the penis and fcrotwn, as far as the os pubis. \ Every thing was done, which art hitherto recommend.-,- to M m no
no purpofe.   Mr Rofen and I called for the advice of MrFrifh at Veronits, a gentleman who had fuccefsfully performed many operations ; the more dangerous, the readier he was to .perform ; confequendy he gave his advice immediately to amputate all the affected parts, to which I made the following objections: i?na, That the eryfipclas had fpread above the cs .pubis, and how deep it went, none could poilibly fay* 2do, That his fever was extremely high, and conlequcntly none could juflly fay how far the whole mafs of blood was contaminated with the eryfipelatous eauie ; and that daily experience (hewed* that in iuch difeafes a wound inflicted upon a found part generally tranflated the eryfipclas to the wounded part, and fometimes left the former difeaf-cd part altogether.   This could not be denied, becaufe we frequently found the eryfipclas next day affecting ftrongly the member which had been bled. But laflly, a ring, of a brown colour, run quite round, and circumfenbed the cryfipelas from the found fkin, which I took to be a fure fign of a feparation ; and confequendy, that, if nature's intention was now interrupted, it would undoubtedly caufe tjre man's death.    Mr Frifh was of a different opinion, and was bale enough, privately, to afperfe my character, by faying, that if the man fhould lofe his life, it was owing to my obftinacy.   I foon got notice of this.
And
And having been warned, I doubled my diligence, and had the Satisfaction to complete the cure. The fkin of the penis and factum were quite loft, yet nature furrounded the. tefticles and penis with a callolity to admiration ; and, diough the tefticles were ftrained, yet he was completely cured, and begot children, wliich I prognofticated to his wife, when flie ufed to vifit liim.
The confequence of this cure was to me very agreeable. Mr Frifli, underftanding diat I was for Satisfaction, came to the hofpital when I was there, and, before many of our officers, begged pardon, and acknowledged that he did not think that he was cureable, and believed that the operation was the only cure ; but now was convinced of ihe contrary. Be tliat as it may, Mr Frifti certainly fuffered much in his reputation, though not Undefervedly* *
It was in Auguft when we arrived in the pleafant village Sliilofske, and confequendy Very hot weather ; the foil is diy, rather in^ clhiing to fandy. It was towards the evening when we arrived, and I arrived in my travelling-waggon, where I flcpt the firft night, or rather deiigned to rake my reft, for niy eyes were not (hut one hour the whole night, oQcafioned by an innumerable quantity of fleas, which forced me at laft, with o-thcrs, to get up and walk about, among whom Was the Prince's eldeft fon Prince Alexander,
the
the fame who was lately ambafTador at the Court of London. We were ahTircd that the defart, every fummer, was in the fame condition ; but that where many people lodged together, or encamped, their numbers very foon decreafed, and we found this to prove true at Sliilofske.
We again returned to Taverhoff in the latter end of September, the good Prince having recovered, to the unfeigned joy of his own family, and all the good people who had the happinefs to be aquainted with him. He rc-afTumed his command, which was like to have run into confufion, when he was fick.
A gentleman of die name of Ifmaeloff, of an antient family and great poffeflions, was fent to Taverhoff, it was faid, by the defire of his relations. He was but weak and vain, a great lover cf game, and confequendy every villain could make a bait for him : He was good natured, and therefore not dangerous. He was a relation to the Prince, and his Lady a near relation to the Princefs royal Elifa-beth, afterwards Emprefs of Ruffia. This gentleman kept a large pack of hounds, many grey-hounds, and other kinds of dogs. He was only a lieutenant, but the Prince appointed under him proper mid-fliip-men, who tranfacied the affairs of the Empire without blemifli. Mr Ifmaeloff rejoiced in nothing fo much as obliging every one as far as he could.   He hunted frequently, and, not
only
only made every one welcome to partake of that diverfion, but regaled them fumptuouf-ly, and looked upon them as his friends. When the weather would not permit of hunting, we might ever meet with fome agreeable diverfion in Mr Ifmaelofffs houfe, providing only that it happened to be none of his drinking days, wliich were very frequent. Every pleafant fummer-day, we either went a-hunt-ing, fifliing, fowling, or playing, and drinking our tea at the fide of a wood, or. on the banks of a river, in the afternoons only ; and in this manner I paffed two years,, as.it wJere in paradife, except only when I.was.fick. The good Prince never failed to honour us with his prefence, when affairs permitted,: and when he could not, the Princefs and a coachful or two of his children were partners of our innocent diverfions.
There are many wolves and bears about Taverhoff, and the inhabitants have different ways of catching them ; as a relation of tliis kind may be agreeable to fome of my readers, take what follows. The bear is killed with a piece of fliarp fleel fixed on the end of a fhort ftrong pole, and a club armed with a heavy piece of iron : When they have routed the bear, he makes a brifk attack, inflantly the peafant gets on his knee, and fixes his pole on the ground, keeping the fliarp ftccl pointed to the bear, who, not obferving, or elfe little a-fraid of the pole, rufhes on to the mail, who t directs
directs the fteel fo, as to pierce his breaft, and then with one blow of his armed club on the head, difpatches him at once.   I have been told tliat they are fo fond of bear-hunting, that, though it is attended with great danger, they very carefully will go to kill them, without acquainting any of their neighbours. Another way is with ffrong nets in the woods, and the mufquet.   A diird way is more .curious, and not dangerous r They take a large door, into which they drive many pieces of iron made very (harp, and {landing fome inches above the wood, into the middle of this they fix a living pig, which fqueaks the whole night, then they cover all over with grafs or reeds. When the bear hears the pig, he makes all the hafle he can to feize his prey; but when he jumps on the door, the fliarp irons, being bearded, run into his feet, then he turns liimfelf on his back, and continues to roll and roar widi the door above him, till the hunter next morning difpatches him. There are many fierce wolves about Taverhoff in the winter feafbn, which they kill, by tying a living pig to the end of a fledge with a long rope ; two men fit in the Hedge well armed with guns loaded with Hug-mot. They drive their horfe by feme wood, and then throw out the pig which makes a loud noife, at which the wolves come out, and, endeavouring to feize their prey, are difpatched with the fowling-pieces, but the (hot renders the fur of fmall
value
value. Two accidents happened when I was in Taverhoff, which deferve to be mentioned.
An old failor ufed to get a dead horfe, or a piece of one, and carry it to the defart, into the middle of which he fixed a flick ; he then, planted two or three loaded guns, pointed to the flick, in fuch a manner, that if any thing moved the horfe, the motion, by the help of fmall cords, drew the triggers. One morning, as the failor went to fee what kind of game he had got, he fpied from a diftance fomediing very bulky, and, though it was froft, when the boars don't roam abroad, yet he imagined it could be nothing elfe. Gladly he run to the part, but foon was undeceived. It was a man who had loft his way, having been the worfe of drink, and feeing fomething black among the fnow, went and fat down to take a reft, where he was wounded by nine flugs. The poor man wras cured, but the failor, after a long confinement, was difchar*-ged fuch diverfion ever after. Two foldiers belonging to die garrifon of Veronits, lovers of fport, went one night, according to cu-flom, to fome hay-ricks widi a pig ; an old large cunning wolf appeared, but did not run straight to the pig ; after running about them fome time, he jumped upon the head of one of the foldiers, and veiy foon would have devoured him, had not the other, who was very near liim, (hot him dead, wliich he did without wounding the man.
if
i If a man has only a few houfes of his own, though he may be ever fo rich, he, (not as here) dare not affume die title of gentleman; he is only a peafant of the better fort, and called odna dvorctz, which fignifles in Englifli, one houfe. One of thefe peafants lived in the neighbourhood of Taverhoff, he was extremely obliging : One winter-day, he begged of the Prince to permit his cliildren to go and fee liis method of hilling, wliich was granted, and I made one of the party. After we had got a homely repaff in his houfe, we went to a pleafant lake about three miles long, but not half a mile broad, where we .frequently ufed to divert ourielves in the fummer feafon, by fifhing, (hooting, gathering l!rawberries and different lands of fruit growing on the banks, and this odna dvorctz fupplied us with cream in abundance. Thither •we went with a light, and well armed, for fear of wolves ; the peafant cut a circular hole through the ice, and, caufing the light to be held near it, with a net in the form of a large laddie, he took as many fifh as he plea-fed, fuch as perches, pike, tench, and carp. In fhort, he loaded two fledges in lefs than an hour. This relation may furprife fome at firft reading, but the fact is fo well known, that, in Pvuiha, the peafants have no readier way of catching fifli for their,ufe ; and they fay, which is moft reafonable, diat the fifh
fwim
Swim from afar to the hole, directed by the light, for the benefit of frefh air.
After this manner we lived in Taverhoff, till the middle of October, when orders arrived to the Prince, acquainting him of the peace, and commanding him to caufe lay up all ftores, and veflels already built, or near fi-nifhed, under fhades, to appoint proper officers to take notice of every thing left; finally to difmifs his command, make his repair to St Peterfburgh, and take a feat in the fenate and admiralty. This was agreeable news to Us all. I looked upon Peterfburgh, as I would have done upon London ; and now all people were employed to get every thing ended : But the Prince never would leave any thing half done, wliich caufed us to remain in Taverhoff till February 1740, when we were thinking to fet out in two or three days for St Peterfburgh. One morning I went into the Princefs's chamber, and was not a little Sur-prifed to fee her weeping, and in fo much Sorrow that fhe could not Speak one word. I had not been there three minutes, till the Prince entered, dreffed only in his morning gown ; and, pointing to the Princefs, fmiled, tho* he was alfo grieved, and faid, obferve Fatiana, for that was the Princcfs's name, hew flie grieves for what can not be helped, flnce it is agreeable to God and the government.
He faid, that about midnight a courier arrived, with orders for him to make his repair
N 11 to
to Aftrachan, and govern that kingdom till further orders ; he then threw his gown about me, and faid, it grieved hiin mod: that he was obliged to fend me to St Peterfburgh, and c-fpecially at this time, when three of his children were ftck, and the Princefs not w i recovered from the effects of a peteclrial fever> (lie had near loft her life by.- To which I anfwered, that, if I fhould not be reckoned a defertcr, I would go with him and h s family to any part upon earth ; but that I would defire to be lent from Aftrachan to St Petersburgh when he arrived, by which means neither the admiralty nor medicine chancery could blame me ; becaufe, as we were to proceed very faft, I could return by poft, as loon as I was obliged by the eamfliicks, or ordinary way of marching, which is at the rate of 50 verfts in three days, agreeable to Peter the Great's regulations.
My ready anfwer gave them both great fa-tisfacTion. Econtra his adjutant, whom he had, from a'maker of barrel:-;, made an officer, denied to go further than Pavclofske ; but the Prince eafed him of that trouble, and not only excufed him, but granted liberty and time enough to go and fpend fome days with his relations, before he fhould arrive in St Petersburgh.
We loft no time in getting every thing ready, and left Taverhoff on the roth of February r 748, and next morning readied to No-
vopavelofske,
vopavelofske, where there arc fome thoufands of men conflantly employed in in.ik'-.: !C} repairing fmall arms for the army.   An acci ■dent happened here, which I {had very brie& ly relate.
The commandant, who was only a major, came to pay hisrefpects to the Prince, and demanded his orders. I was walkia;r in the lobby till breakiafl was ready ; my furred coat, and the reft cf my dreis, were the lame as that of the Prince's fons ; for every year I got from die Princefs two complete {bits of ■cloatiis, one for the winter .and the other for fummer,. lie came up ;to rae, and aiked, if the Prince was to be leen? I faid he was, and 1 hewed him the door : lie then in a moil fub miffivc manner afked me, What my rank hi the army was ?' I told him :. He then in a mod -defpiteful manner laid. Is that all! and moved oil'. As there were none prefent, I hefi-tated not to acquaint him, diat he certainly was a inufhrooni fptuiig from froth. He went into the room however, without returning any anfwer ; from this I was certain, that lie cither was no gentleman, or ii lie was, he had had none of die genteel education which the Ruffians bellow upon their children with fuch care. I was not mid a ken. A fervant warned me to go to breakiafl ; when. I enter-■tcrcd the room, the Prince was fitting taking a dilh of coffee, at fome diftance from the ta-Jble ; My commandant was (landing at the
door
door, a fure fign that he was no gentleman: The Princefs and her children were fitting at die table. When I had Unit the door, I made a veiy low bow to my major, and begged to know his rank; at which the noble family all flared, well knowing it was not my cuflom to be impertinently inquifitive to ftrangers. The major, not a little difconcerted, anfwered pitifully enough, that he was a major and commandant of the city; to which I eplied, Is that all ! it is undoubtedly for want of a better, turned round with an air of hnportance, and took my place at the table. 1 he whole family were greatly embarraffed to keep from laughter ; but they were foon freed of all re-ffraint, for I only began to tell what palled in the lobby, when my major made a low bow, and fuddenly departed ; but before he left the houfe, he muft have heard a very hearty laugh, and, no doubt, he knew it was at his expence. I never could put up with vain, empty, fclf-fufficient fools, but continually took all opportunities to humble them.
The Prince faid, that he was a gentleman, but that their family was fcarcely known, and therefore remained in a ftate of old ignorance; and that he believed this major was tne greateft military rank belonging to his family. Thus we travelled on, night and day brifkly, through the fame villages I mentioned in my journey to Kotchatoff, till we arrived upon the line v/hich reachcth from the Don to the
river
river Volga. Before I defcribe this line, I niuft mention two little accidents,- which happened to me betwixt Pavelofske and the line.
The firft was, the Princefs fometimes defired that I fliould fit upon the forepart of the fledge in which flie and the Prince were, in order to pafs the time. When we had left Pavelofske, I went into a very large fledge to vifit two of the lick children ; it was very warm ; and, whilft I was talking with them and the nurfes, the fledge went off; they advifed me to fit (till, to which I had no objection; accordingly we proceeded to the next village, without the fhialleft accident : But, when I came to the Prince and Princefs, they feemed to be furprif ed, telling me, that they thought I had been loft, as none knew where I was. The Prince had on the way difpatch-ed back an exprefs to Novopavelofske, to fee what was become of me ; but they faid it was a good fcheme to go into the fick-fledgc.
One fine frcfty c!ay we arrived in a village fituated hioh on the banks of the Don. As
o
we were to ftay a few hours here, the fervants and other idle people poured water on the fide of the hill, which inftantly froze like glafs ; they then, men and women, upon the bark of trees, Aided down the hill. This is a diversion which the Ruftians arc very fond of; the Princefs went out to fee it, and I accompanied her. After wc had looked on a while, die defired that I would try it alone, for fome
times
times three, or even four, can either fit or ftand on the bark, but then diey are often o-verfet, and this oceafions laughter, especially among the women, when what they commonly take great pains to hide, is expofed to public view.
They were fo fond of the diveriion, that, the winter I was employed in die hofpitals in St Peterfburgh, I was informed the Emprcls Ann caufed make a hill of iiiow for it; and that Prince Courakin, the fame who was fome time envoy at die Court of Great Britain, who at that time was mailer of horfe, and nfed to take great liberties in order to divert the Emprefs : He frcquendy fat upon a fmall fledge, and took fome of the ladies upon his knee ; but when the velocity of the fledge, at the foot of the hill, was fb diminifhed as not to endanger hurting the ladies, he then fell off with Ms fair partner, to the mirdi of die by-flanders ; but the ladies were drefied in long linen drawers, fo that thsir modefly was not hurt. At the Princels's defire, I fat down on the middle of a large piece of bark ; and, as I was not acquainted with fuch excrcifes, I through ignorance placed my legs alfo upon the bark: Thus equipped, I was gently pufh-ed off, and, though I did not fall off, the bark turned fb frequently round, that it exhibited to the fkilful ijxxtators much mirth. At laft, my bark being veiy fmooth, and I unfkihul, not able to diiccT it, carried mc forward into
a pit,
TRAVELS 287
a pit, from whence the people ufed to fetch water. This unforefeen accident foon turned their mirth into the other extreme. I however went down unhurt, and it being all frozen over, except a fmall hole, I was in no danger ; therefore, conlidering how merry they had been at my expenee, in my turn I had the fatisfaclion to divert myfelf at their fright; I lay flill, not<vihble by them, and obferved many, in their hurry, to help me, lying on the iide of the hill, overturned in lb many different fhapes, that, at another time, it would have exhibited a fcene of laughter to all fpeetators. At laft, when they came near me, I arofe, and left my vehicle for them to Carry back at my return. The Princefs faid, fhe never would again defire me to make proof of my readinefs to oblige her at fuch a rifle, which indeed fhe was ignorant of.
We at laft arrived on the weft end of this much famed line, which runs betwixt the rivers Don and Volga, a work of the great Peter's, fit only for fuch a Prince to have made. It is a ditch and rampart reaching the whole length of 60 verfts ; the ditch is 20 yards broad, well formed, and proportionably deep. The rampart is veiy high, and the fouth fide, towards the Kalmucks (commonly called Cal-muks in other authors) country, or the delart of Aftrachan, is planted with high and ftrong paliifadoes made of fir-trees, drove into the ground, and fattened together with crofs-
beams,
beams, fo clofc, that a mail cannot get thro' any where, except, I think, at two places, through which brooks of water run, and thefe are fortified as far as art hath hitherto been able.   There arc four ftrong forts built upon this line at equal diflanccs, well ftored with cannon, and betwixt the forts are many houfes, where foldiers only live.   Ccntincl-boxcs are placed on the top of the wall, the whole length, fo near one another, that the foldiers on duty can almoft fpeak together.   The names of the forts from the well end to the call, are called in the fame order, viz. Donfkaja, Ofo-kor, Graczi, Meczotnaja, and Tfaritzin, in o-ther authors falfely called Carizyn.
The defign of building this line, is to rc-flrain the incurfions of the Kalmucks into the Empire of Ruffia, and, although it has the effect of curbing great bodies, yet fmall parties have made their way thro* where the brooks run, and done very confiderable damage, as will be taken notice of in courle of my travels.   We reached that caftlc called Ofokor, about feven at night, and as the horfes were very tired, and no change to be got here, we were obliged to take our lodging in the caftle. Except the captain's apartment, who was commandant of the caftlc, there was no other private clean room in it; diis being deftined for the Prince and his family, I colild get none, unlcls I would fleep in the guard-room, which was very large, but as full of men as it could
flow,
TRAVEL  S. 280
flow, and I imagine this was the coldefl night I had ever experienced in my life. I ft^d in the Prince's apartment till bed-time, and as it was excefiively cold after fupper, I took a little more wine than I ufed to do, to comfort me, but notwithstanding all my care, when I went to the door, it was intolerable. I then returned into the guard-room ; but though it was warm enough, when I viewed the number of people of all forts, I by no means thought of making one cf their company : I therefore ordered my fervant to get ready two bottles of boiling water to be put to my feet, and a wax candle to be lighted in my fledge, and when all was ready to let me know. He did fo, and I went as quickly as I was able, had my boots taken off, laid myfelf down under good far covers, having a good furred gown wrapped clofs with a falli g:i my body, and a warm furred cap on my head, yet I really imagined that I Would have been frozen to death this night; for after my fervant had buckled the cover of the fledge fall, and retired, had I fo de-figned, I would not have been able to get out again without help. In this condition, I put out the candle, and flill with my feet at the bottles of water which comforted me not a little, I fell afleep, and flept found, till eight next morning, when I was roufed from fleep by being overturned amongft the fnow, as my driver was palling down a fleep
Oo hill:
hill: Nor did I hear the cannon which were diich ug^cl at their governor's departure. I was in a great fweat; but the men were not long before they had replaced all my affairs, and put me to bed ; where I remained in pretty good condition; till I arrived in Tfarkzin.
The city Tfarkzin is neat and very compact, the ftreets well laid, out, but the houfes are all of timber; it is f unrounded with a deep dry ditch and high ramparts, with baf-ftiorts, well ftored with great cannon. At Mr Cultzoif's the commandant, an old colonel, veiy ferious defire, the Prince remained here till next morning, when we Get out, and die day thereafter, arriving at Tehorna-jar, or black-hill, we travelled now on the Volga.   Tchornajar is cliftant from Tfarkzin 112 verfts, and from Aftrachan 500. It is but a fmall town, fortified in the fame manner as Tfarkzin, but they have not fb many cannon.    The Prince, having been informed that the ice below this town was not good, refolved to go hence in die morning, that he might pals this dangerous place in day-light. The city flands on a high ground, that they may fee far into the defart, lead the Kalmucks, who inliabit this country, make fome fudden attack upon them.   I (hall defcribe thefe people afterwards. ; Next morning, we departed, cfcorted by 300 Colfacks and a party of dragoons ; the way from the town to the river is very fleep, and it was my lot,
at
at this time, to have a pair of veiy good young horfes in my (ledge, I was alfo in the rear : Whether the fledge had bore hard up* on the horfes, or the report of the cannon had frighted them., I know not, but they ran off, and my driver fell from his box, and left the horfes at their own will; my fervant alfo fllpt off from behind. The horfes galloped on, and had almoft over* turned the fledge in wliich the Prince was. He, according to his former goodnefs, immediately gave orders to the .dragoons and Cof* facks to endeavour to get betwixt my fledge and a piece of the Volga on the weft fide, not frozen, about a mile or two long. My fledge wras unbuckled on the right fide, look* ing to that unfrozen part of the Volga. I faw it, but knew not what to do, I attempted to get hold of a piflol, in order to (hoot one of the horfes, but they ran very fwiftly ; die ice was by no means fmooth, many boards lying one upon another, being frozen together, made mc imagine diat, as I hoped, I fhould be overturned, and eonfe-quently prevented my getting a piflol; at laft, I fpy-ed the horfcmen get betwixt me and the water, who, with their whips and cries forced the horfes to run towards the eatt fhorc, which gave me hopes that I fhould at lead efqape drowning : At laft, a gallant Coflacfc; upon a (wire horfe, got hold of one cf t! e reins of the horfe hi the {hafts. apd3: by a fuddeii jerk, threw clown that horfe; any
may
may eaiily imagine, tliat I made what hafte I could to get out of the fledge, but was furprifed, when out, that with great difficulty I could either Hand or walk, a tremor, which had feized me, was fo violent: But whether this proceeded from fear, to which I never was remarkably fubjecl, or the irregular diveriity of motions, I fhall not fay ; but the tremor continued more than twenty four hours, and fuch a tremor I never experienced either before or fince, though I at iundry times, have been in as great danger, as will be feen in the fequel. Nothing further remarkable happened in this journey, till we arrived all fafe in Aftrachan, wliich .we did on the fifth of March.
CHAP. LIII.
A defcription of the City and Kingdom of Aftrachan, &c.
THE city of Aftrachan is built upon an ifland called the ifland of Hares, that ifland lying eaft and weft, having the famous river Volga on its north fide, it makes a pretty appearance to ftrangers at their arrival from Ruffia; becaufe they have a view of its length, and the fteeple? of all its churches with a very high brick wall, which furrounds both it and its citadel: Mr Hanway has
been
been mifinformed. He fays, it contains about 70,000 inhabitants. It certainly contains many more than an hundred thoufand, but this in Ruilia, is not to be certainly known, as they keep no regifter of women and very young cliildren. The city is in latitude 46 degrees 13 minutes, and 68 degrees eaft longitude. The citadel is built upon the weft end of the city on a hill, the wall fur-rounding it is of brick, 30 feet high atleaft, and very thick, having many high ftrong baftions, mounted with a great number of large cannon : But it is not a regular fortification, though ftrong enough for any enemy in that country : Aftrachan lieth 60 Verfts from the Cafpian lea: In it are contained magazines of all kinds, the governor's and archbiftiop's palaces, the government's chancery where all affairs, civil and military, are judged of, and all the records are kept. The metropolitan church, a large monaftery, all built with white freeftone, guard-houfe, and feveral other buildings, are within the walls of the citadel: There are only three gates into the citadel, one from the city, another from the fouth opening into the Tartar fuburbs, a third from the north towards the Volga. The wall of the city takes its beginning from the north eaft corner of the citadel, and rims eaftward three quarters of a mile, then turns fouth a quarter of a mile, and proceeds - from the fouth eaft corner weft,
till
till it again joins the fotuh-eaft corner of the citadel. There are only three gates iooking towards the river, one only to the sail, and two to die fouth. Like the citadel, it has many baltions mounted with cannon, but not built in a regular way.
On the inlide of the walls, betwixt them and the houfes, there is a void fpacc, where none are allowed to build 20 fathoms broad, quite round the city.   There are three long flreets from eaft to weft, and many crofs-flreets interfering the former three. There are within the walls two large ftone churches, and one of wood.    I think the length of the city and citadel is equal to an Englilh mile. The houfes are built with timber, and the ftreets are laid over with timber alio, fo that a fire happening in this city muft be very dangerous.   The fuburbs are many, and extend wide : They contain many more inhabitants than the city.   '1 here arc two churches on the eaft, and a large monaftery of ftone, one wooden church on the fouth, and one betwixt the river and city on the north, all for thofe of the Greek perfuafion ; befldcs which, the reformed have one built with timber, the Romans have a monaftery, and the Armenians have a fine church, thefe two are built of ftone.
The hofpitah, are built without the fuburbs on the eaft, bellde the large monaflery, both for tho army and fleet, though the admiralty
is
TRAVEL  SI -295
is built on the weft end of the citadel, inclofed with a deep ditch and rampart, with baftions mounted with cannon. The Ruftian and Armenian merchants inhabit the eaftern fuburbs, the Ruffians only the fouth and north, but the ancient Tartar inhabitants live in the fuburbs next to the admiralty. Within the city none of the Tartars are permitted to live, and they are forced to evacuate the city every evening before fun-fet; if they are found in it after that time, they are fent to a guard-houfe, there being one at every gate, and next morning are feverely whipped on die bare back.
The Indians, and fome Armenians, are permitted to live in two fpacious caravanfe-ras, wliich have only two ports, at which guards are kept day and night; they are inclofed with high ftone walls.
The kingdom of Aftrachan on the fouth is confined by Circaflia, and 44 degrees 10 minutes north latitude, on the weft by 62 degrees 30 minutes eaft longitude, 011 the north by 52 degrees north latitude, and on die eaft: by 69 degrees eaft longitude, as they compute ; for the inhabitants have no certain knowledge of the extent of tliis great kingdom to the eaft, poftibiy it mayVeach to die Jaik river, or further.
C II A P.
CHAP. LIV.
Being an Account of the Jaik river inhabitants j and a relation of what pajfed there, vjith fome Anecdotes which the Author was in* formed of from creditable People, 6cc.
BEFORE I treat of what properly concerns Aftrachan, I thought it would be agreeable to the reader, to be informed of the nations which live on the confines of that kingdom. The Coftacks inhabit the Don on the eaft. Circaftia is on the fouth, an account of which I fhall give in the courfe of my travels, when I arrive in that country* The kingdom of Cazan, and part of Siberia, bound Aftrachan on the north, but to the eaft, as I faid before, the inhabitants are ignorant of their proper limits, it being all defart, except the forts of flek, Borodinikoi, and Orenburgh, which properly belong to the province of U-fimfkaja.
The river Jaik takes its rife in veiy different parts, both fouth and north. I fhall defcribe its courfe from the north. Streams run from the mountains and lakes in Ufimfkaja in the north latitude of 54 degrees 20 minutes, and 70 degrees eaft longitude ; it continues its courfe fouth-caft through a vaft defart, and difembogues itfelf into die Cafpian fea, fonth-
fbuth-
fouth-eaft from the city of Aftrachan, diftant about 140 verfts. At the diftance of 2 or 300 verfts north from the mouth of this river, there is a large ftrong town, which a colony of Don's Colfacks built, and at prefent inhabit ; they called it Jaik after the river. It feerns that they hitherto have bravely defended thernfelves againft all the different Tartar tribes which furround them. BetwixtAftrachan city and Tfarkzin and the river Jaik, till you arrive at the town Jaik, there is not one fixed inhabited place. Tliis vaft defart, neverthelefs, is inhabited by different hoards of wild Tartars, wliich annoy their civilized neighbours very much. They who roam next the Cafpian are called Karakal-paaks, and they who roam to the north of the Karakalpaaks are called Kirgees and Baf-keers, they are faid to profefs the Mahomedan religion : Many broils yearly happen betwixt them and the Kalmucks, nor is it in the power of Ruftia to prevent this, although, as Ihall be hereafter explained, they are at no fmall charges and trouble to keep peace amongft them.
The Kirgees and Bafkeers, in the latter end of the year 1739, being Mahomedans, and un derftanding that the Ruiiians carried on a bloody war againft their brethren the Turks, without the fmalleft provocation, fell fudden-ly upon the open and dcfencelcfs villages in the fouth of Umfimafofkaja province, murdered all the very old people who unluckily
P p fell
fell in their way, together with the infants, carried widi them all die young people of both fexes, propoling, either to keep them for Haves, or elfe fell diem to odicrs.
They could not have perpetrated fuch villainy in a worfe time for themielves. Vaiilie Kikifach Tatifhoff was governor in Orenburg, a man, though I cannot commend his morals, as fit to treat with fuch barbarians as any one la Kulfia, of whom I fhall have occafion to fay more afterwards.   Tliis governor, who had his fpics every where, foon, not only got jpfctke oi the horrid depredations the Kirgees |^ad commuted, but certain advice where diey TFcre ; and that they were living at all cafe, void of care, and quite mdifferent about what they had been doing. He prefently difpatched 5000 regular troops, and 3000 Coflacks, un-<3er able commanders, with proper inflructions-   Tliey marched with all lecrecy, and, although the Kirgees were faid to be upwards of 20,000 fighting men ftrong, the Ruiiians fell on them in a morning, and made a terrible ilaaghter ; few got away. The Rulfians, who were with them, obtained their liberty, and the Kirgee and Bafkecr women and children were, in their turn, made prifoners ; for die Ruiiians killed none, but fuch as were able to carry arms-
Tins relation I had from a furgeon of dragoons, wlio was in die aeTion, and liad four male and female children ibr his fhare ; he
faid.
that he might have gotioo, if he cbxild hav£ maintained them. He told me, that tlie^ were much pinched for wrant of provisions for fuch a number of people in the defart: That the foldiers have been known to fell either a boy or a girl for a pinch of ihuff; and Mr TatifhofF, afterwards governor of Aftrachan, confirmed tliis relation, which Mr Chen-mitzer, for that was the furgeon's name, had told me. Since that terrible maflacre, they never more were heard of, fo long as I ftaid in Ruftia.
I faid, that the Coflacks had firft found out that ft ne river Jaik, and built a town to which they gave the name of the river. They fortified it ftrongly, fo as to become refpecTed hy the ftrongeft hoards of Tartars, and, of courfe, they were a good barrier to the Ruffian dominions, llicy acquired great riches hy fifhing and hunting, but fifhing was then-principal ftaple, wliich, when they had cured, they carried by water to Aftrachan, and fold them there to be lent to RufTia.
Before Peter the Great's dme, though the Volga abounded with the beft fifh in the world, fifhing was of no benefit to the crown. A poor peafant, named Demidioff, whom I was intimately acquainted with, when he was very rich: He could neither read nor Write, yet he began that ufeful branch of commerce: He improved it fo much, that when Peter Was in Aftrachan the firft time, he fent for
him?
him, who told the Emperor all his fchemes, and made it evident to his penetrating genius, that, if he had a fmall fum of money, he was in condition to make this one of the belt branches of trade in Allrachan. The Great Peter ordered him 20,000 rubles, and gave him all encouragement, prohibiting any to moled him in any Chape* Id a lew years thereafter, Demiclioff paid off the Emperor's money, and had many vefTcls of burden on the Volga. When I was there, lie had fhips of 200 tons trading to Perfia, and was e-ileemed one of the richelt merchants in Aflra-chan.
The fifhing became fo refpeclable, that taxations were laid upon it, before I arrived there, and a cantoir was erected to take care that they were duly collected ; over and above tliis, the crown fcized upon the ichthyocolla, and all kind of glew. Many years after this, the court got notice, that, in a fhort time, the Jaik filhery would even vie with tliat of Aftrachan, and rcfolved to eflabliih a cantoir in Jaik, hi the fame manner as they had done in Aftrachan: In confecjuence of this, proper officers and writers were diipatched to Jaik. (This happened about the time of my arrival.) When they arrived, they lent for the Coflacks, and declared to them the Imperial decree, probably in a haughty threatening manner. The Colfacks flared at this, and urged that they had firft found out tliis river; that they paid as much as any of the Don Coffack?, from whom
they
were fprung ; tliat they were always true and faithful to the Empire ; that they had, by great labour and expence, built this town, and had defended themlelves againll all then: neighbouring Tartar enemies, without the al-liftance of Ruftia, at a very great expence of their blood ; and laflly, that, if it were not for fear of them, even Orenburgh would be in no fmall danger from the great Tartar Prince Jean-beck-bater, who was able to af-femble an army of 100,000 fighting men ea-fily, and who had often put Orenburgh in no fmall fright, notwitliftanding their formidable garrifon, fee. Thefe were their principal reafons ; but, to fuch high lords, they fignifi-ed nothing, and they infilled, not only to levy the taxes propefed, but alfo forthwith to have a refpecfable garrifon eflablifhed there.
This was a bitter pill, and fo very naufe-ous, that that very night they fummoned a council of the Colfacks, and determined not to fwallow it. Next morning, they waited upon thefe new-comers, and fent them headlong into the other world, by drowning them in the river. Several expreffes were difpatch-ed after that from Peterfburgh, to know what could be the reafon they never had received any report from Jaik. The Coflacks fent them all the fame way. At laft, Mr Tatif-hoff was employed to find out what was become of the commilfioners : He indeed got notice that they were all drowned ; but, at
the
j62      VOYAGES   a net
the fame time, advifed the court to take n6 lurther notice of it, till the country was better peopled, and a few forts built about them. And thus this affair ended to the fatisfaclion of the Colfacks. Certainly a government Icnows veiy little of found policy, if they think it a good fcheme to opprels borderers.
Men, who think they are unreafonably op-preffed, will not fail, upon all occafions, to take the firft opportunity they meet with, to fliake diemfefves free of their oppreffor?, even at the rifk of life and liberty. How much Hood the Romans, Englifh, and Scots, have loft, only to maintain then' Kberty, every perfon knows, or may be informed of by hiftory : And we have frequently feen, from very fmall beginnings, that many governments have been quite overturned, and much blood and treaflire loft, by the ill-founded fchemes of a weak, or wicked admiriiftradon.
What happened at our firft coming to Aftrachan.
Xl way, and made die reader acquainted with the neighbourhood of Aftrachan, I pro-Jjofe to let him know what is worthy of notice at the Prince's arrival. He was within three or four miles of the city, when many
officers,
CHAP. LV.
meafure cleared the
officers, and the principal inhabitants of •the city, to die number of fome hundreds, approached him, and, on the ice, which was very bad, paid their compliments to him, which he, in the moll obliging manner, peculiar n> himfelf, returned as he paiTed on.
They then returned behind the governor's fuSic, and fo drove on to the city. When he entered under the principal port, the cannon began there, and were fired off quite round the city and citadel. W7hen he entered the citadel, he was there received by die guards under arms, who paid their compliments with their arms, drums, and mufic. He next arrived at the governor's palace, and there wras ialuted by his own proper guard, confifUng of a captain's command, viz. 120 men under aims, and a complete band of mufic.
I gave dire&ions to my fervant to get fome room to put up my bed in for diat night, till I fhould have more leifure to feek out a convenient lodging, and then went to fee my iick provided for. I had not been long a-fcout diat, when the Princefs defired me to go into the great hall, where the Prince was. I did fo : He was Handing .(peaking with the principal officers, civil and military. There was one tall well-made old man, that bore a veiy diflhiguillied deportment, but he feemed very penfive. I inquired who he was ? and was anfwered by the captain on duty, that his name was Younger ; that he was a brigadier
dicr, and commandant of the city ; that it was thought he had almoft loft his judgment by a fright, which he would acquaint me of when more at leifure ; and laftly, that his father was a Scots gentleman.
A great number of merchants entered the hall, every one having fome coftly prefent for the Prince ; fome with different wines, fruits, and fweet-meats of all kinds ; others with rich iilks, fattins, brocades, the produce of India and Perfia ; others with cloths, fee. When the Prince obferved them, he, in his homely way, returned them thanks, and faid, Gentlemen, I doubt not but you are accuftomed to make prefents to your new governors, but I am fo iimple, that I never could take a prefent in my life, and therefore beg you'll let them be carried home : I am determined to diftribute juftice, as far as my judgment (hall direct me, to great and fmall alike. The honeft man is always my bofom-friend, whatever his condition othcrways may be. And I am to inform you, that, after this admonition, if any fhall bring prefents to the Princefs or any of my family, (you may believe me to be fincere) I will look upon that perfon as my enemy, and fhall ftmn him accordingly.
Then he, turned to the gentlemen of the army, and laid, Gentlemen, you and I are quite ftrangers; I hope you fhall experience, that I am an honeft man, and confequendy love honeft men, and fuch as delight in doing their
duty
duty to her Majefty. Such I fhall always e-fleem and honour, whether their rank is great or finall. I have no doubt of every one's obfcrving his duty, in his different flation. I have only faid this, that I may at once be known to you. All the gentlemen returned him thanks becaufe he fpoke his mind ib freely. The merchants fent off their pre-lents to their own homes ; but one might eafily have feen furprize in their countenances, and, (by this time I underflood the Ruffian language very well,) I overheard them making their different remarks, though all a-greed that they never had feen a governor, at his firfl arrival, before this, refufe a prefent; becaufe, fay they, luch prelents are not given by way of bribes, nor can fuch prefents bear any other interpretation, than that of a certain regard which they wanted to exprefs for the perfon of their governor.
He happened to call his eye upon me, and defired to fpeak with me. He afked, If I was fatigued with my journey ? and feveral other queftions he put to me, as if he had been my father. I told him, that I only wanted a lodging. He faid, in the moft affectionate manner, that where-ever he lodged, I fliould have my fliare. Then he turned to the gentlemen, and laid fo much about me that I fhall not repeat it,< and withdrew to the Princefs, and told her what had palfed. She was very well pleafed at every tiring, but his
fo very peremptorily refilling the prefents, e-fpecially as it never was forbidden, even by feter the Great, who did not refufe to take a prefent, purely from the relpect people had for him.
After a fhort flay, the gentlemen retired, and left the governor and his family to put their affairs to rights, and take their repofe, which indeed we needed, fince we left IXchornaya, becaufe we had no houfes betwixt that city and Aftrachan to lodge in, except zemlenkes, wliich, as has already been defcribed, are built under-ground, and diere-fore not agreeable to every one ; add to this, that we were obliged to keep Uriel watch, left the Kalmucks made an affault upon us unprovided.
CHAP. LVI.
Concerning the Inhabitants and other People living in, and immediately about Aftrachan*
~wy USSIANS, in our days, are the natural, J.V ar*d the greateft number of the inhabitants of the city of Aftrachan, but the kingdom is inhabited by Kalmucks and Nagai Tartars ; the laft of which are die dependents of the antient inhabitants, who were conquered by Ivan Valilitch the tyrant. They,
at
at this day, pay very great refpect to their chiefs, who are called by them Murzas.
The city is inhabited by great numbers of Georgians, who embrace the Greek religion, and ferve in the army, as alio Armenians. They do not feek much after any other glory than merchandiie, and are reckoned as cunning as the Jews, though they all profefs the Chriffian religion. I have often thought, and am ftill of opinion, that they, viz. the Armenians and Georgians, are the defcendents of the Jews who were fent into captivity by Nebuchadrezzar. They are liker the Jews than any other people I ever law, and, though they are Chriftlans, yet they have all the cunning and deceit of their progenitors.
There are many Perfians, and various kinds of Tartars, wliich I do not rank among the inhabitants, becaufe they plead dependence upon their own proper countries.
The Kalmucks properly inhabit that great defart lying betwixt the rivers Volga and Don, having Circatiia on die lbuth, and die line, already defcribed, running betwixt the Volga and the Don on the north. They till no land, but feed their numerous flocks. They have no fixed place of abode, but emigrate from one place to another continually, living in tents made in the form of bee-hives; the better kinds are covered with felt, and the poorer fort with rufhes or reeds. The Kalmucks live ki the borders of Circaffia in the
winter
winter fcafon, but, when the fpring advances, they proceed northerly, even to Tfarkzin, and return back again as the winter draweth nigh. There are many different hoards, tho' they are all one kind of people, feemingly without mixture ; every hoard has a chief, but all their chiefs are lubjecT to one Prince, called Chan. Their Chan conftantly keeps a refident in Aftrachan, to take care that his fubjecls have juftice done them ; and a capr tain prefides over a cantoir, where many writers and interpreters are kept in pay for that purpofe.
The Ruffians pretend, that they are fub-jecls of their empire : The Kalmucks deny that altogether, but alledge, that they are happy in being under their protection. The Ruffians always keep a refident at the Chan's court, with 2 or 300 foldiers, that he may reprefent every thing neceflary to the Chan. It was Donduk Ambo who reigned over them, when we arrived in Aftrachan. This prince kept very good order, and was a fe-vere dlfciplinarian: There were very few great robberies in his days, but when any happened to be brought to him, who had committed any heinous crime, he caufed break their arms and legs, and let them be expcled to the wild beafts, without meat or drink, till they expired. They profefs the religion of the Chi-nefe, and pay worihip to idols, but acknowledge, that they are only idols to exprels thp
great
great regard they have for fome of their faints. They acknowledge only one God, keep holidays, and have no unbecoming way of wor-fliip. They praife God by vocal and inftru-mental mufic, having at fuch times books in their hands, the notes of wliich are wrote from the top to the bottom of the page. Their mufic confifls of (fringed inftruments and cymbals, to which they beat time, and indeed it is by no means difagreeable. They have a fpear about eight feet long, headed as other fpears, broad, and double gilt; the neck of the head is encompafted by a ring, to which a leather thong is faftened of about a foot long, to the end of which a piece of lead or other metal is made faft. When they wor-fliip, one placeth the end of this fpear on die ground, and, by an imperceptible motion of the hand, caufeth the metal turn round, during the time of their worfliip. Upon enquiry, they informed me, that this rotation was an emblem of eternity.
They certainly believe in a future ftate, and have fome lingular rejoicing in the time of new moons, by building a fmall tower of earth, placing on it veflels filled with oil and other materials, which they fet fire to, and which exliibits light of different colours, round which they dance, gambol, and ling. They marry only one wife at once, nor muft they know ether women during their marriage-ftate.   Their ceremony of marriage is rea-
fonable,
fonable, though not agreeable to the cufloms of any other country I know. It is thus : A young pair, agreed betwixt themfelves, redre, and live as man and wife for one year. If the young woman produceth a child in the 1 pace of one year, the marriage is completed and lawful; but if not, they either make another year's trial, or part: Nor is the woman in the leaft reflected upon ; (he is as greedily picked up for another trial by others, as if (he were a young virgin.
Women, when married, are faithful to their hufbands, for a contrary practice is punifhable with death, if the hufband is fo minded, and he is alfo executioner. An example of this I was once very forry to fee. Some young men, belonging to my hofpital, returning one evening home from the city, and having been overtaken with liquor, as they palfed to the holpital by a few Kalmuck tents,they went in, and gave the woman liquor to intoxicate her. The hufband not being prefent when they came there, gave them opportunities of ufing what liberties they pleafed with the woman. In fhort, it was faid, Ihe was caught by her hufband in the very act. He difmiffed her guefls wkhout quarrelling with them, thereafter put his wife to death, and, next morning, I, with others, faw him dragging the dead body towards a bridge, from the middle of wliich he threw her into the river.
Their
Their priefts never marry, but then they have a right, by their law, to go into any man's wife for a night. The men are fo far from refenting this, that they take it as a very great honour done to them. Their priefts have no riches, for they are free to ufe any diing belonging to any of the Kalmucks, as their own property. They make pilgrimages to China, for inftruclions and benedictions from their lama or high prieft.
I hope our reverend fathers will not be dif-obliged at this narration, as I write nothing but what I have been informed of by many to be true ; and, I am of opinion, that few young men, in the vigour of youdi, could relift the cravings of the moft fenfible defires and paftions, in a country where diere is not only no reftraint, but where it is thought to be a part of dieir duty, and undoubted rights and privileges.
Their burials are very lingular. I was told, that they bury, as we do, in die earth for a certain number of years; for an equal number, they throw their dead into the water, for another they burn the dead bodies; and laftly, at equal terms diey expofe the naked bodies on the ground, to be devoured by any animal; but they think, if their dogs eat diem, it is a great fign of happinefs hi then' after-ftate. I am very certain that they drew them out from then* tents but a very (liort fpace, to be devoured by any beaft or fowl, all the time
I was
I was at Aftrachan, and that their dogs fed chiefly on them and fifh, till I got a flop put to it, as the reader will be informed of in the fequel. They make continual wars or depredations upon their neighbours, but particularly againft the Karacalpaaks, which obli-geth the Ruffians to keep about three regiments of dragoons, and 4 or 5000 Colfacks, upon the banks of the Volga every fummer, to prevent their palling that river. But generally it happens, that the Kalmuck? have done the Karacalpaaks all the damage they could for the year, before the Ruiiians can get to their ftations ; becaufe the Kalmucks pals the river on die ice, and travel into the Karacalpaak country at the time when they are leaft on their guard, murder and deftroy great numbers, and carry many into captivity, together with their herds and numerous flocks of cattle.
The Karacalpaaks can purfue them no further than the Volga, becaufe, by the time they arrive upon the eaftern banks, the Ruffians have formed their line, and deny them paffage. The Karacalpaaks can only act a-gainft them in the winter feafon, when their formidable ftrength inhabit the defart on the borders of Circaffia, 5 or 600 verfts from the weft fide of the Volga ; wherefore they kill and deftroy all the poor Kalmucks which happen to fall in their way. Of their actions inftances will be given in the courfe of my
travels.
travels. The Kalmucks are a very fwarthy, broad faced, fmall eyed people. They are indeed very ftrong and robuft ; their nofes are veiy little railed above their faces, except at the noftrils, where you obferve two large broad holes. The Nagai and Karacalpaaks are a little fwarthy, from their being, I fup-pofe, in the fields during the fummer feafon, but in other refpecTs, they are as well formed as any man in Europe, and their women are veiy agreeable. The Nagai till and drefs the grounds, in wliich they fow millet, pulfe, oats, and Indian wheat, with a vari-ety of the fineft melons in the world. They live in houfes in the neighbourhood of Aftrachan in the winter feafon, but drefs the land, feed their herds, hunt, and fifti during the fummer ; and, for their greater conveniency, live in tents, not very unlike the Kalmucks, but much more cleanly every way.
No broils happen betwixt the Nagai and Kalmucks ; for the Nagai inhabit the iflands betwixt Aftrachan and the Cafpian fea, whereas the Kalmucks are obliged to feed their flocks in the defart to the weft of the Volga. Their cattle are dromedaries, horfe, horned cattle, and llieep, veiy lingular for their tails, called by the inhabitants kardruick. The tails weigh about one-fourth of the fheep. They are very large, rather bigger than any I ever faw in England. In the beginning of fummer, the Kalmucks iliear the hair from
R r the
the dromedaries, and fell it to the Aftrachan merchants. I fuppole it is what we call mohair. 1 frequently have worn cloth made of it. Their Prince always keeps ftrong guards of 20, 30, or even 40,000 warriors about his perfon. Their arms are fcymi-tars, bows and arrows. They are the beft bowmen, I believe, in the world, learning die bow from their infancy. They never fubmit to a!k their lives, and feldom give quarter to a-ny enemy ; nor has the utmoft Ruffian fe-verity been able to curb this barbarous dif-pofition ; it was for this that they were expelled the Ruffian army in the late war againft his Pruiiian Majefty.
They are the moft hardy of the whole human race. I am told, that they eat any thing, and in a march, they would not go a mile°ont of their way to pafs any river a mile broad. They plunge into the water, and proceed with the greateft intrepidity.
C PI A P. LVI.
Concerning the Soil, Animals, Vegetables, and Minerals about the City of Aftrachan.
~\ MR Hanway, as was faid, placeth Aftra-1 VJ. chart on the long ifland : But the inhabitants, who ought to know beft, call it the ifland of Hares.   In the true fenfe, it is not
a large
a large ifland, for a branch of the Volga wafhes it from the north round the eaft fide, and, at the diftance of two miles fouth, it cafts off a fmall branch which runs ftraight weft, and f^Us again into the Volga, about a mile or two fouth from the city. The foil, not only of this ifland, but of the reft, and alfo of the defart, is very light and iandy, but it is fb very much mixed with fait, that it produceth only, naturally, a great variety ofKals, vaft quantities of liquorice, reeds, genifta aculeata, an herb called Aftracha-nia, nitraria, and others of the like nature. The earth will produce no grain, ur.leis it has, during the winter feafon, lain under water; wherefore the Tartars have great dikes, which they open or fhut, as they intend to have grain, or wafli out the fak, when they intend to fow a piece of ground, they cut through the dike on the loweft end of the valley, and let out the water which formed a lake the preceeding year, and, in two or diree days, from the exceflive heat and drought of the climate, it is fit for tilling, then they drefs it, and fow it with what grain they pleafe, and it is incredible what increafe it produces, whether grain or fruits.
They fow many different kinds of melons and pompions which they eat with bread: The water melon, I was told by our countrymen who had been in the Weft Indies and Italy, Is far preferable to any growing in thefe
countries;
countries : Indeed, I drank little liquor to fa-tisfy nature, when I could get the water melon ; it is extremely healthy, but the other melons are very dangerous, producing agues accompanied with dyfenteries. Aftrachan produceth the largeft grapes I ever faw, and veiy agreeable to eat, though, the wine has a fharpnefs uncommon, wliich I believe proceeds from the fait of the earth. There are two kinds of mulberries here, the red and the white, the white kind, or a particular kind of white mulberries, had almoft killed fome of the Prince's fervants by vomiting exceftively, and if I had not been prefent, and prevented, his children would have iliared the fame fate.
Aftrachan gardens produce very many vegetables, but they muft be frequently watered for the heat and drought is very great, and (howers are feldom feen here, indeed in the evenings and night-time, there falls a very great dew, dangerous for the ftranger ; but this is far from being fufticient to walh the lalts from the earth : For an hour after fun-rife, the fait lies upon die furface of the earth like a hoar-froft.
The inhabitants of Aftrachan are bleffed with all kinds of tame animals which we have, and by a far greater number of wild than we have, or than I can defcribe ; the following is a fample, wild fwine, deer of different kinds, fuch as the elk, red and fallow
deer
deer, and the antelope, wliich in the defart roam in herds to the number of fome hundreds: The laft mentioned is not well known, and therefore I fliall give the following defcription of it, which may be relied upon, becaufe I have killed veiy many.   The antelope is about the bignefs of a fallow deer, of a white gray colour, the head refembles fomething that of a cow, but its nofe has no griftle, and feels in your hand as loft as velvet, it has beautiful black, yet bright proml-nent eyes, they are all purblind, fo that a man may eafily get within fliot of them, they are legged and footed like other deer, they have a pair of beautiful horns, not branched, tapering from the root to the top, they have rings at equal diftances from the root to the top, but they are not fpiral as fome write, their flelh is extremely tender and delicious, but I tliink it has fome tafte of mufk, which was the reafon that I could never eat of it above twice or thrice in one year; They are very fwift, but cannot, in the winter feafon,   efpecially, hold  it  out long;   for I have taken them frequently with grayhounds, although, at their firft fetting out, they outrun the dogs by far.   They are the fineft runners I ever beheld, you would imagine, as they run from you, that they incline very much to one fide, and that their feet fcarcely touch the ground.
Hares
Hares are in veiy great plenty : I never faw in Aftrachan, nor heard of either bears or wolves, and I fufpect this may proceed from the want of their natural coverts, woods ; for there are no woods, except in the iflands, and hi the time of high water, the iflands are all covered over, except the higher kind, and the Tartars of all nadons are naturally fo keen hunters, that they would foon extirpate any number : Notliing but the fwift-nefs of deer keeps up the breed. There are wild horfes in Aftrachan as I was informed, but I never law any of them alive, they are run down, and hunted like other wile! animals, and it is faid, they are excellent food, which I believe to be true. I have eaten what was called wild horfe, but it was much preferable to any beef.
At an entertainment, my wife being with child, Mr Thomfon, our landlord acquainted me, that there was to be a difh of frorfe-ftakes, and defired I fliould acquaint Mrs Cook, left, if fhe got notice afterwards, it might prove of bad confequence to her : I did fo, fhe did not eat, but I did, our company numbered nine, and except Mrs Cook, evciy one eat plentifully, and declared they never had eaten fo good beef in England, for they imagined it was beef. One Mrs Bell, who loved what was good very well, declared that fhe never had eaten fuch beef in Northumberland, where (he was born, but after
fhe
TRAVELS, 3ig
flie was informed that it was horfe fiefli, flie foon turned fick, and threw it up ; but I imagine tliis proceeded neither from the bad quality of the flakes, nor from the delicacy of her conftitution, but truly from the quantity fhe had eaten, which was not the moft moderate.
Before I leave this fubject, I am obliged to mention one of the moft beautiful quadrupeds that I ever faw, it is called by the Ruffians and Circalfians, the wild goat, and is properly a native of Caucafus. I never faw more than one, which was fent as a very great prefent to the Prince: It is faid, that there are many of them, but that they inhabit the moft inacceffible mountains in Caucafus, where neither horfes nor hounds can with fafety pafs ; wherefore, though they flioot them fometimes, yet it is very rare tliat they can catch them alive ; diis was living, and did not feem to be old. It was neither fo bulky nor fo high, nor indeed any way refembled a goat, it had no beard, which indeed might have proceeded from its youth: It had a well-proportioned head, with gentle tapering jaws ,beautifulJy prominent, bright fiery black eyes ; the head fixed to a long tapering neck, which grew agreeably greater, till it reached the well formed breaft, the body of a very regular length, with a gentle belly, and ftrong well built pofteriors, tapering legs, and cloven hoofs, with a fmafttail
like
like a deer ; it is all over fpotted brown and white, but rather wreathed on the fides. I was told that it is good venifon, but never tailed it; the Prince fent it into lluffia.
All the world have heard of the wonderful baronetze, philofophers and naturalills were divided in opinion about it, they could not adjudge it to be an animal, nor properly a vegetable:   It  was laid   that   the baronetze grew in the kingdom of Aftrachan, upon a ftalk two foot high, from the top of which grew a lamb-like fruit, covered with a fine fur every way refembling that of a young lamb ! Who are ignorant that the Armenian or other merchants fold one to the late King of Prulfia, which he as a very great curiofity, made a prefent of it to the Royal Society ? who fufpecting a fraud, alked and obtained leave of the King to diflect it : within the fkin, they difcovercd faw-duft or fome other materials with which it was fluffed, and the navel pierced with a flick, which was fo fixed, as to appearance, looked like a ftalk. It was alfo faid that no grafs grew within fome feet diftance of this baronetze, becaufe no doubt, it was fuppofed that the monfter eat it up ! for it had a mouth, nor could it mifs ; becaufe it was only a lamb-lkin (luffed. So full of this whim, was our Archiator Dr Fiflier, that he, at the defire of his corre-fpondents, wrote to Mr Malioch, cur field a-pothecary, Mr Swartze, and me, to make all
diligent
diligent fearch for tliis wonderful herb, tho* it was then known the Royal Society had made the difcovery I jufl now mentioned, but no doubt he imagined that though the King of Pruffia had been impofed upon, yet fuch wonderful vegetables might exilt. We, o-bedient to our Archiator, made fearch, we alfo afked all the different Tartars who inhabit the defarts of Aftrachan, and were ridiculed and laughed at, as we very well defer ved, thefe people jnftly wondering that men who were faid to be very learned, could, upon fueh flight informations, be fo very eafily impofed upon ; and from this, inferring, how properly I fhall not fay, that much of our learning was certainly chimerical.
C II A P. LVII.
A Continuation of the Hiflory of Animals.
THE plumed inhabitants of Aftrachan are too numerous for me to give an account of them, and indeed, I fcarcely believe that the different nations who inhabit and traverfe that kingdom, put all together, are equal to fuch a talk ; I lhall however, give a fhort defcription of a few, leaving the reft to men who have more time, and abler pens than I pretend to.
S f The
The pelican of the defart, onocrotalus or pelecanus being the largefl fowl, I begin witli it. It is as large as the gray eagle, which I think is greater than the fwan, it is endowed with a very long bill pointed, but broad where it joins the head; the upper half is very folid, but the lower is as it were two horns, from the point diverging towards the head ; betwixt wliich is a very capacious large bag fuflicient to take in a very large fifh, fuppofe a carp, which I have feen them (Wallow with eafe, the head is large, die neck well proportioned to the bignefs of the fowl, as is the body, the wings and tail are veiy long to carry fuch a weight : They are of a white gray colour, are great fifhers, and flock together to the number of 2 01-300. They fit upon the banks of the river through the day and nighttime, and only fifli in the morning and e-vening. When they fifh they fly to a bank, the bottom of which they can nearly reach with their feet, which are webbed fomething like a goofe, and join one to one in fuch a manner, that a fifh can fcarcely pals by them, e-fpecially becaufe they join their wings to their neighbours, and immerfing them and their fpread tails into the water, form a very great line fomething refembling a crefcent, enclofing all the fmall fifh betwixt them and the fliore, to which they proceed flowly, picking up the fifli till they are got on fliore, which they do very nimbly: It is a very
harmleis
T R A V E h S. 323
harmlefs bird, only a great deflroyer of fifli. Where they hatch their young I know not: They tafle fb much of fifli that they are not eaten by the inhabitants, and they depart towards Perlia in the winter. Another there is, wliich the Ruiiians like ways call pelican, the Germans Ichcl ganfe : The body of it is white as fnow, its legs are long and black, as is its bill, which from round near the head turns an inch broad at leaft at thefarthefl extremity, it is full of fliarp prickles fit to hold any tiling it may catch, it is as white as fnow; and from the hind part of the head grow five or fix long milk-white beautiful feathers, wliich the Emprefs Anne and her ladies wore, placed in fockets of gold on their head-drefs ; the body of this pelican is about as big as a Mufcovy duck; they are fifhers, and through the whole day run upon the banks of fhallow lakes, continually directing their broad bill from one fide to the other, that they may readily apprehend their fifli. They are not very delicious food; becaufe they partake of the fifli tafle, though I have frequently eaten them.
There is another water-fowl called by the Pvuilians corovaika, it is all of a colour, but not quite black ; it is ahout'the bignefs of a hen, has a long crooked black bill like a fnipe but much longer, it lives and feeks its food on the banks of the rivers and lakes, yet it docs not tafle of fch: Its fkfh is brown, but
extremely
extremely delicious, although it is not fat, it is very tender, it is not fliy. Wherefore they are eafily killed. There are very many {wans, and a very great variety of ducks. I {hall only defcribe two kinds which are not known in tliis country, at leaft I have not heard of them, and I am fo far diftant from any good libraries, that I only can confult my own. One kind is of a brown-red colour, but more red on the breaft than any other part of the body: They fly in flocks, but a little fcattered, and are always near rivers or lakes, though I never faw any of them fwimming. If you happen to kill one of them, all thofe who heard the report of the gun, immediately take wing and fly towards the place where the fowler Hands; and if he does not conceal the killed duck, they continue fo long to fly round, making a veiy mournful tone, tliat an indifferent good fportfman may kill a veiy great number of them without altering liis fituation : But they are not good to eat, tailing very dry, hard, and fifhy. There is another kind extremely fmall not bigger than a quail, it is very beautiful, exactly fhaped like a cluck, but the feathers are curioufly diverfifled with green, white, red and yellow. They are fliy, and I imagine never were eaten. I only once killed one at Derbent with a ball; you have no chance with fmall fliot, as they permit none to come fo near them.
Ifliall
I (hall juft mention another water-fowl, and make an end of them. The one I mean is of a white colour, but a little variegated with either black or green. It has two very-long legs red as blood, and wades deep into the water ; the bill is red, but from the head it projects in a horizontal figure, and then it makes an angle, and turns downwards towards the bread. It fillies by wading, but does not fwim. Every kind of fowls which are to be found on the land of Great Britain, are alio to be found here, and therefore I fhall not defcribe them ; only I cannot pafs by one remarkable accident, which happened long after I arrived in Aftrachan. One day walking by a large field of millet, in company -with another, my dog went among the millet and fprung fome quails, fome of which we fhot. A Tartar, to whom the field belonged, came to us. We imagined,' before he came near us, that he defigned to chide us for permitting the dog to go among the millet, and would, for that reafon, have been glad we had been fomewhere elfe; not that foe were in the leaft afraid of any thing the Tartar could do, but the thoughts of having wantonly wronged a harmlefs kind of people, were very dif-agreeable. In fhort, when he came to us, he with great courtefy told us, that thefe birds deftroy ed his millet, and that if we liked the diverfion of killing them, if we would take the trouble to go into the field among the millet, it was probable we would get 100 for
one :
one : He faid he would go to liis tent and provide fome delicious melons by the time we fliould return, not doubting but that we would be very thirfty.
We readily agreed to this fcheme, and, as few people fhot there, killed a great many. We arrived in liis tent afterwards, and obferved, that we did not care to walk among liis millet, left we fliould deftroy much with our feet and the dogs. He returned for anfwer, that it was true that we might deftroy fome, but that men never would deftroy much; and affirmed, tliat the quails deftroy ed more than jf many men were to pafs through it daily, after it was once headed. He faid, that men naturally, for the love they had for grain, never would ralhly tread it down, but carefully mark their footfteps; that the dogs indeed, faid he, would fliake fome, was certain ; but, he averred, that that altogether would not equal one tenth part of what the quails devoured and fliook.
After this I many times diverted myfelf in this way, and many of my friends, with eating the quail, which, however delicious, were lb fat, that I could make but two or three meals of them in a feafon. The people in Aftrachan alfo faid, that they never had known quails (hot in that neighbourhood before that time. From what is faid, it is indifputablc, that here there is nq want of wild fowl and the beft quadrupeds in the world ; but if the
kind
land produceth fo luxuriantly * the water, the famous Volga, produceth to the full as great variety and plenty of the moll delicious fifli.
The belugo is the firft I fhall mention, as the largefl in that mighty river. I imagine it is fo compleatly defcribed in Ray's fynop/is methodica pifcium, that I may refer the reader to it under the name of Attllus, by Rondel. Beljon. de aquatil. p. 126. Gefn. Aldrov. A-dslla et Adano, hodie halls dictis, fee. which he may read, page 113 of the above book. He indeed, and fome others, thought tliat it Was a fifli only to be found in the rivers of I-taly, Lombardy, the Danube, and Borifthenes. I imagine that the hufo, attilus, and belugo, is the fame fifh. It is indeed very like the flurgeon in make, but much larger. It frequently weighs more than 1000 lb. A ftone, or rather a bone, is found in the head of the belugo, which, when broken in two, one would imagine, by the colour and fines through it, that it is a piece of mercurius fublimatus corrofwus ; but every one knows, that the fublimate is very ponderous, but this is very light. It is kept as a curiofity, and is faid to be a great lithontriptic. I have ufed it, but cannot fay much to its praife.
In the year 1740, I fent a very large one to my learned and worthy friend Dr Sancliiez, phyfician to the Emprefs. The belugo is fo touch like the flurgeon, and, as faid above, fo well defcribed by the great Ray, that I fhall
fay
fliy no more of.   The flurgeon is fo well known, that it would take up time needlefsly to fay any thing about it more, than only that the Volga abounds fo much with it, that it makes great part of the fifti-commerce betwixt Ruftia, other countries, and Aftrachan. The Volga produceth white ialmon, a very fat and unwholcfbme fifth ; carp, pike, perch, a fifh as large as a falmon, but not fo good, wliich the Ruffians call fudaak ; fmelts, and an incredible variety of fmall fifli.   I fhall only mention two, becaufe, I believe, they are little known in this country ; the firft is the flirlet, it is made very like to a flurgeon, but never fo large, and has no bone in its body, in place whereof it has cartilages, which may be, and are frequently eaten.   This is a moft: delicious fifli.    The biggeft I ever faw weighed only 35 lb. Troy.    The other fifh I fhall mention is called by the Ruffians lorn, and their young foimka.    It has a large flat, round head, a mouth in the form of a cref-cent, fet hill of teeth like an heckle; its neck, and as far as the anus, is of an equal bignefs, from thence to the tail it grows gradually fmaller.   It has fcarcely any fcalcs, is very much fkinned like an eel, and has large eyes. Some of them are a yard or more in circumference.
The fom is a bold fifh, and will attack a man, and if out of his depth will eafily drown him, being both big and long.  He meafures,
if
if old, five feet and fome inches. The Ruffians will not eat of it, becaufe it eats men. The Kalmucks greedily devour it. I have eaten of a young fom, and found it veiy delicious, the flefh being as white as milk. One day I had veiy near loft an excellent water-dog, by fome young fom ; long he ftruggled, but at laft got free. Had it been an old one, he would have taken the dog eafily to the bottom. Many men, when fwmiming, have been drowned by the fom.
G H A P. LIX.
Concerning the different Methods the Aftrachani* ans have to take Fi/h, cure them, and their Method of making Caviar, called hy the Ruft fans Ikra.
T Would not be thought here to know in^-timately all then* ways of managing thefe branches of bufinefs ; yet I hope what I write will be fo intelligible, that any may underftand my meaning. I am confident, that many will find it new; andaltho' 1 have formerly written thefe accounts to my learned correspondents, yet many who may read this, never have feen the other.
The fifhers, who live on the iflands of the Volga in zemlenkes, or wooden houfes under-ground, catch their fifli with hooks, nets,
T t and
and harping irons.    Though thefe arc the inftruments with which we catch fifli, yet I'm perfuadcd, that they ufe them differently, both fummer and winter.   With lines and hooks baited they take the flurgeon, and all other fifli lefs in magnitude; but very feldom can they take the belugo in this manner ; wherefore they make ufe of a ftrong rope, i, 2, or 300 ells long, and, at the diftance of every two ells or lefs, from one end of the rope to the other, they fix large barlxxl hooks, but not baited, with their fliarp points (landing upwards, looking over each (ide of the rope.   The rope thus prepared they place a-crofs the river, letting it down to the bottom, with the points of the hooks above the rope, and fix a buoy to each end of it.   The belugo, wliich is chiefly taken in this manner, loves to fwim near the fandy bottom of the river, and he fwims ordinarily very rapidly • therefore, whether he is fwiniming with or a-gainft the ftream, he has a great chance of being hooked in the belly, becaufe the points of the hooks look to each fide of the rope. If the grip is but fmall, he breaks off; but the greateft number of the largefl belugo are thus taken.   When the fifher miffes liis buoys at the places he put them in, he is certain that a fifli has been there, and fo fails about till he finds them, and then coils up the rope very carefully into the boat.   If the fifh is not fpent, he may draw the boat and rope after
liim
him for a long while; but at laft, being quite exhaufted, the fifhers gently draw him near the boat, and, before he touch it, they flrike him on the head with an iron hammer, but 'have the rope ready to let go, if they fliould mils the proper place, for he will fwim a great way, and, if they do not give him rope e-nough, he would ealily draw the boat, tho* large, under water. Thus to the fiflier it is very troublefome and dangerous to take a belugo, though, to a fpectator, it affords very agreeable diverfion.
. The nets which are ufed in the Volga are both ftrong, long, and deep : They are from 50 to 100 fathoms long. In fummer they place the net fo as to make the figure of half a circle, out of their boats, and bring the ropes fixed to both ends of the net afhore, at a great diftance the one end from the other ; then, having a great number of men, they pull till they get near the bank, when they row their boats within the net, and, with their barbed irons, they ftrike the larger fifli, and take them into their boats ; but it requires much patience and great toil. Laftly, they draw out die net with an incredible number of different fifli. If a ftrong old belugo happens to be amongft them, he frequently breaks the net, gets away, and lets many prifoners efcape ; fo tliat the fifher is never glad to Ice a large belugo in the net. In the winter feafon they cannot ufe fuch large nets, but I
have
have feen them ufe nets of betwixt 30 and 50 fathoms long ; and the way they do is this: They cut a large fquare hole through the ice on the fide of the river, for extracting the net; then, oppolite to that fquare hole, they cut another at a juft diftance, fo that a ftraight Kne drawn betwixt thefe twro holes forms a diameter to a large circle, which they afterwards form with a number of holes cut thro* the ice, at fuch a diftance one from the other, that they can reach with a long pole. Having now made all their holes, they introduce into the middle hole, far in the river or lake, two poles, for the greater expedition, and fhove one forward on each fide, from one hole to the other, till they meet at the firft made fquare hq^ at the fliore. A rope having been made faft'to the end of each pole, ferves to conduct the net regularly, fo as to form a circle, which, with the aflillance of many men, they draw out of the fquare hole.
In this manner, I once, near Aftrachan, faw an incredible number of different fifti taken by a number of men. They catch final* ler fifti as big as carp, pike, or falmon, with a barbed harping iron, made faft to a long pole, (wliich the Scots call lifter,) as we do, particularly in the time of high water, when the fifti play among the grafs ; but there aro few if any red lalmon in the Volga. As e-very one knows how fifli are taken with bait, I fhall fay nothing of it further, than that I
have
have feen a belugo thus taken in the winter feafon, wliich was fo ponderous, that, the filhermen alfured me, it would be, though fixed upon (ledges, a large load for two good horfes to draw on the ice.
The Ruffians prepare caviar almoft from every kind of fifh : Thus, I have frequently, at the beft tables in that empire, eaten frefh caviar from pike. The Ruffians have three different ways of preparing caviar : The firft is the fimpleft and beft, and is truly but a part of the other two operations. Caviar is the fpawn or ova of the female fifti. That prepared for keeping, and for the Ruffian and' foreign market, is extracted chiefly from the belugo and flurgeon ; that of the flirlet is, I imagine, all confumed at home, being extremely delicious food. The only art uled in the firft preparation, is, carefully to clear the ova from their membranes and filaments, which they do by fliaking and wafhing them; then, under a fhade, they place them upon a fieve or board, fo that the fuperfluous moi-fture may drain off. Th'i3 frefh caviar is fold at Aftrachan at about three pence per 12 ounce. The fecond method of preparing it is, firft to cleanfe it, as has been faid, and caflt it up well faked, which is fit either for foreign or Ruffian markets. The third way IS, to prepare as formerly, and, when well' faked, they put it into a prefs to fqueeze out much of the moiflure ; this is called prefled
caviar ;
caviar; but I do not think it good, for it lofes much of the delicious tafle of that prepared the fecond way.   I imagine no part of any filh, at lcafl which I have tailed, is comparable to the frefh caviar.   The fifhei men have fiages well aired, though the rays of the fun cannot penetrate the roof, where diey cut o-pen their large fifh, and either fun-dry them, or fait them, and then pack them up for the market.   The fmaller fifh, being cut open, and the guts taken out, are fo perfectly fun-dried, that, -upon the banks of the river, they build them up into Hacks, and let them Hand expofed to the open air till they arc (hipped off.   In tliis manner they prepare the carp. I have known 100 carp bought from the net for a ruble.   In London, their tongues pre-ferved alone, I doubt not, would bring to the fifhmonger ten times that value.   I have frequently bought a live flurgeon at Aftrachan for three pence, and fo the reft. One is always lure of fifti upon the Volga. The filliers never would take money from me, but gave gratis, for me and the people with me, as much as we could eat, and fome to carry along with us ; and if I gave them a glafsful of fpirits, they exprefTed great fatisfaction,    I had almoft forgot to acquaint the reader, that the largefl, fulleft, and beft tailed cray-fifh I ever met with, are to be found on the banks of the Volga ; and, for a penny, one may get as many as fix men can eat.   In half an hour, a
man
man accnflomed to catch them, may g-et a balket full, or as many as he can conveniently bring home.
There are but few reptiles in Aftrachan. I have feen only three different kinds. The firft is very rare, it may be two ells long, and is fpeckled yellow and black. I never heard that they hurt any perfon, though fome fay that they are noxious. The fecond kind are fpeckled black and white ; they are not fo large as the firft, but are quite innocent, un-lefs they are irritated, and their number is incredible. In the month of March, firft when they make their appearance, they are very feeble, and fcarcely can crawl, and ly in fome pit or hollow place, many of them linked together > DUt» as the heat advances, they get flrength. The third kind is the viper, wliich is fo well known, that I fhall fay nothing a-bout them. Polfibly there is a greater variety, but I neither was informed of, nor faw a-ny other. There are many tarantulas in A-ftrachan, which carry their young on their bodies about with them, where-ever they go. I have had many patients bit by them, but never had any difficulty to cure them, altho* the bite always produceth a very fordid ulcer. There is another infect which I muft mention; that is the locuft : It is about two inches and one half long, or three at moft, of a whitifli grey colour, and is accomplilhed with four wings.   It is as big about the body as a filk-
worm.
worm.   They appear about Aftrachan in the end of July, or beginning of Augull, in fuch numbers, that it is incredible.   A fouth-weft wind conftantfy brings them like large clouds. Mr Hanway is miftaken, when he fays, that they come from W. N. W. The truth of this I aflert, becaufe I obferved them every year. Indeed I believe, that, when they are Hying, and a north wind blows, they will proceed fouth.   They are a great plague to the inhabitants of Aftrachan ; for, where-ever they a-Eghfc, they leave but few vegetables growing; however, they never were known to cat the leaves of melons.   In the month of Auguft I believe they copulate, and for a long time ilick fall together, but at no other time, as I have been informed.   I believe that they generate in Cuban, Georgia, Circaflia, and A-ftrachan ; and I make no doubt of their generating in all the countries fouth of diele; but I fuppole, that the extreme frofts in Rufl lia deftroy them and their feeds. The Aftracha-nians endeavour to frighten them from their fields and gardens, by Ihooting, ringing bells, and making great noife, but I fufpecT to little pnrpofe; for I have known them alight in gardens, in fpite of all oppofition, and, before they decamped, would not have left any thing valuable green.   When I failed on the Caf-pian, I have feen an incredible number floating on the furface of the water, above 50 miles from fhore.   There are great numbers
of
of fmall tortoifes about the banks of the Volga, not exceeding one foot in length, but they are not eaten by the inhabitants, becaufe they imagine they are poifonous, though the cook, who went to Perfia with us, who was an Au-ftrian, affirmed the contrary, and faid, that he had drefled them frequently.
CHAP. LX.
Concerning Minerals found about Aftrachan, ckc.
NORTH from Aftrachan, about the diftance of feven miles, the Ruffians dig up a kind of earth, in a place on the weft banks of the Volga, called Jal litri, a corruption of fal nitri, and macerate it for fome time in water; then they draw off the clear water, and, by adding foot and fome quick lime, they evaporate the water, and make as good fait petre as can be made any where. They fay, that this has been an antient city. I doubt not the truth of this, becaufe brick has been found frequently under ground, and money alfo, fome of wliich, both filver and gold, I have feen, and am in pofleifion of fome at prefent, though the characters are not, I believe, legible*.
Uu The
* Some authors have given out, that the fwallows abont
thjs
The men frequently find precious llones in digging this earth. Whether they have been lolt accidentally in former ages, or are natural minerals, I fhall not difpute ; but I am certain, that fome of them are quite rough, and of little value till they are polifhed. One day I bought from a j ewcller two uri polifhed rough rubies, found there by a foldier, and two fmall diamonds. The rubies weighed eight carats, and were without blemifh: The diamonds weighed both but one carat, and were polifhed. Thefe four ftoncs were va1-lued by the jeweller at five rubles: I agreed to give him the money next day, but Captain Tandcfelt, a Swede, one of Governor Tatif-hofFs fpies, went in and informed Mr Tatif-hoff, who fent, unknown to me, for the jeweller, paid him the money, and kept the jewels. Indeed, when I challenged liim for buying my jewels from a perfon who had no right to fell them, he could give no reafon-able anfwer, but defired, that I would let him keep them, and at the fame time made me a prefent of a ring with a large amethyft, but not very good. Many fuch ftones have been found at that place ; and, though they have turned over the earth twice already, and,
when
this place are of a different fort from our7, and tie their young with hairs by the feet, left they fall out of their nefts. Dr Leuch and I made (trice fearch about this, and I can affirm, that it is f'.lfe. There is not the fmalleil difference, nor did we find any tied by the feet.
when I was there, were working the fame earth the tliird time, yet they continue to dif-cover both ftones and pieces of filver and gold ; but the metal has been wrought, and therefore it is no native of the place. There are very few frefli water lakes in the neighbourhood of the city, but a great many bra-kifh, veiy fait, or even covered over widi fait, like to ice : Upon fome of them I have walked ; and if the fait is broken any where upon the banks of the lake, where it is not deep, the moifture beneath is black as ink, and emits a. molt difagreeable noifome fmell, though the fait is of the beft kind. In fome exceeding brakifti lakes, but not crufted over, I have taken up fmall cakes of the moft excellent chryftal fait. At the diftance of 60 verfts fouth-weft from Aftrachan, there is a large fait lake, about 50 verfts long and 20 broad, fb thick crufted over, that fome hundred horfe and carts are conftantly at work, carrying fait to be put on board veflels riding in the Volga,. not only, for the ufe of the kingdom of Aftrachan, but the greateft part of the Empire of Ruftia. This falt-men dig out of the lake with great iron gavelocks. There are .two remarkable fait lakes immediately under the fouth walls of Aftrachan, always crufted over in the fummer feafon. The fait is neither pure nor fine, but it has a rednefs in its colour, and fmells ftrongly of violets. Pofti-hly it may receive that particular fmell from
the
the drains of the city running into the lakes, and volatilizing the fait. Our < apothecary took a large quantity of it, and, by many ib-lutions, filtrations and chryftallizations, rendered it as pure as was polfible ; yet it retained the fmell, though weaker by much, a? alfo the reddilh colour. This was fent to the medicine chancery as a curiolity.
CHAP. LXI.
A Defcription of the River Volga.
THE Volga takes its rife in Novogorod-Velik, in the lake Troickoi, and further north in different places. It is joined by a canal to die river Mfta, as has already been faid. It has, belides thefe, fo many different fources in different provinces, that it would be endlefs to defcribe all its different heads ; for it runs through fuch a large tract of ground, and communicates with fo many different rivers, navigable by fmall craft, running from lb many provinces, that it promotes trade and commerce to a greater extent of land than France, Spain, and Italy joined together : But the main body, running from Tweer to Aftrachan, I imagine, if you compute the different turnings and windings, will meafure about 3000 verfts, and, on the other fide of Tweer, it cannot exceed 200
verfts ;
verfts ; and, adding 60 verfts betwixt Aftrachan and the Cafpian fea, its length, from its fource to the fea, is 3250 verfts. The Ruilian corrected map will witnefs that I am not far from the truth, notwithftanding Mr Han-Way, according to his incorrect way, makes this river 4500 verfts. The main or principal ftream of the Volga glides by the following cities and great mercantile towns : In its way betwixt Tweer and Aftrachan, beginning from Tweer, Cafzin, Uglitz, Oreftma, Koftro-ma, Pavelofske, Nifni Novogorod, Kuzmude-mianlk, Kazan, Sinbirlk, Samara, Alexerifk, Sizran, Kafzpor, Saratof, Demitzofske, Tfa-ritzin, Tchorna-yare, Sallitri, and Aftrachan. I hope the reader will excufe mentioning the above places, becaufe my defign in doing this is purely for the ufe of paflengers, that they may run no rifk of being impofed upon, and have always plenty (if provifion and other necefla-ries. I have not mentioned the diftances, becaufe, as I never navigated the river betwixt Tweer and Tfarkzin, I know them no other way but by meafuring the map, wliich every one may perufe. I have not fpelled the names of the cities and towns the fame way as thole who have written before me, as I hinted formerly, becauie they have all been foreigners, who were not mafters of the Ruilian language, and have fpelled them fo, that a Ruilian would not underftand what they meant; whereas, if any (hall pronounce them,
as
342      V O Y A G E S and
as I have fpelled thera, the inhabitants can be at no manner of lofs, which is of the greateft ufe to a ftranger who is ignorant of the Ruffian language.
At Tweer the Volga receives the Twccrka, which is only a branch of the Volga. In it? paftage to Aftrachan, it receives the following remarkable rivers, upon which harks and large boats are navigated : Sekfha, Untzaj Klyafma, Okka, the Wjatha, and Biclaja, join and enter the Volga in one ftream together with the Kama, Samara : Achtaba is only a branch of the Volga, which is eaft off at Tfarkzin, and thence proceeds to the 1 frequently joining with each other, by detached ftreams. Betwixt Aftrachan and the fea it is fo divided, that its inhabitants, I am perfuaded, do not know all the iflands and different ftreams; but the principal ones keep near the weft bank, and, at forty-five verfts diftance from Aftrachan, run by Eaikee, a port belonging to the admiralty, for taking proper notice of vcffels outward or homeward bound ; and beyond this, next the lea, are four hills, which, in the Ruffian language-, are called Tchatire bugree, where paflengers arc detained in fufpicious times, to perform quarantine. On this however there are no proper houfes. The inhabitants of Earkee and Aftrachan fay, that the Volga difem-bogues itfclf into the Cafpian by fifteen or fixteen ftreams ; but, as I laid, they are not
very
T R A V E L S.
343
very certain. I fhall conclude my remarks about the Volga, by acquainting the reader-, that, about the latter end of April, the river begins to fwell every year, and continues to increafe for five or fix weeks, but begins to fubfide about the latter end of June, and foon runs out by the tenth or twelfth of July. The overflowing of this vaft river is caufed purely by die melting of the ice and fnow covering the immenfe fpace, during the long whiter, through which its various branches run; no o-ther caufe of rains having any perceptible effect at Aftrachan, where it rifes in perpendicular height, above its ordinary level, eight or ten feet. It is true, at a greater diftance from Aftrachan, towards Ruftia, in fome places it rifes, above the common level, twenty feet and upwards ; but this proceeds from the current being confined by high banks and lands ; whereas at Aftrachan, except a very few fmall hills in die iflands, there are no high lands on the eaft as far as the eye can perceive any thing. Add to this, that the Volga is divided into fo many large ftreams, as has been already mentioned, that the water gets a free and unconfined paffage into the Cafpian fea. At no other fixed time in the year the Volga fwells, and I never knew it fwell by rains, which are very rare in Aftrachan ; but f have known it fwell five or fix feet perpendicular, by ftrong winds blowing from the fouth, if they continue three or four
days ;
days ; and indeed it will fwell as far up, or farther than Tfarkzin, wliich many think proceeds purely from the fea-water, though I am of a different opinion.   That the fea-water greatly allifls, I have no difficulty to grant; but then it is certain, that very high winds, blowing contrary to the ftream for a long continued time, will flop its paffage, in proportion to the ftrength of the winds, and level of the country through which it runs; and the level of the county betwixt Tfarkzin and A-ffrachan is known to be very great, becaufe the waters do not run two miles in one hour, unlefs they are accelerated by north winds. Mr John Perry, that accurate engineer, makes the Volga to run fomewhat falter than one mile and an half in one hour;    I was told by Mr Poffet (a Frenchman, who kept the Em-prefs's vine-gardens in order, of whom I fhall have occafion to make mention in the courfe of this work,) and many of the inhabitants affirmed, that it was true, that the Cafpian fea rofe gradually high, and overtopped feve* ral low iflands, and gradually decreafed, leaving them dry every nineteen years. One would be apt to think, that this phenomenon might be caufed by the moon ; but as I intend to purfue my travels clofely and briefly, 1 fhall leave this to be canvaffed by aftrono-mers.   There are very few cities in the kingdom of Aftrachan.   Kamfhinka and Saratoff, neither of which I ever faw, Tfarkzin, Tchor-
nayar,
nayar, and Aftrachan, are the only cities, properly f'peaking, in this kingdom. There was a new city built, at my leaving the place, betwixt Tchornayar and Aftrachan, called Ea-nataivaCrepuft; now Chircaflia is joined to the kingdom of Aftrachan, of which Kizleer is the capital ; but as I fhall have occafion to defcribe that country in my journey to Perfia, I fhall fay no more about it at prefent.
CHAP. LXI.
Of the Garrifon and Government of Aftrachan.
r"PHE garrifon of Aftrachan confifts of fix X regiments, five of infantry and one of dragoons. The immediate chief commander of the garrifon is the commandant, who is commonly a brigadier, though I have known a colonel, but then he cannot command a fenior colonel : But orders iftued from, and in the name of the cantoir or office belonging to the garrilbn, where all dieir affairs are tranfacTed by all officers of fuperior rank, muft be obeyed. Each regiment has a fe-parate hofpital, though in very bad condition, as will be taken notice of in the fe-q.uel. Befides the proper garrifon, three or a greater number of field regiments commonly winter here, and 2 or 3000 Coftacks, belides the Tartar militia : For the Kalmucks are not, in Aftrachan efpecially, much to be trufted. The ufe of this regular garrifon is to keep watch about the city and citadel;
X x there
there arc alio a detached number of 3 or 400 fent to Kizleer, and a few to Tchornayaz, but none to Tfarkzin : It being garrifoncd by the field forces. The irregulars, are never made ufe of, but in conjunction with the regulars, and to fcour the defart in troublefome times, and bring certain advice of the operations, places of refort, and numbers of theie wandering barbarians who dif-turb their neighbours. This garrifon of Aftrachan feems to have more fatigue, and no better pay than any other garrifon in RufTia : They are frequently obliged to march into the deiarts in the greateft frofts, by wliich many-are frozen to death, they are alfo obliged in the fummer to fell and bring to Aftrachan wood for the ufe of the garrifon hofpitals, but chiefly for then* officers, as alfo hay: This mal-praclice will not be redrefted till they get another fovereign like Peter the Great. I was allured, and have fome reafon to believe it, that this garrifon one year with another, is recruited with 1 500 men, and, that fuch a lofs of men at Aftrachan is peculiar only to the garrifon, I am 'certain, becaufe I have frequently compared the dead lift of my hofpitals belonging to the admiralty, who were kept in the beft order, and had every tiling required for the benefit of the lick, whether medicines, eating and drinking, granted immediately with thofe of the garrifon.   When thefe poor recruits are ordered
to
to march for Aftrachan, they are fent by water to lave charges, and the more effectually to keep them together.  They therefore are fent m the fummer feafon, and, by the time they arrive in Aftrachan, the different fruits are all ripe, on which thefe poor half ftarved creatures fly with great voracioufnefs, and in a very fhort time, from a fifli diet upon the Volga   for fix or eight wreeks,   a warm nioift air flill increafing as they advance nearer Aftrachan,  and  being lodged in very ill contrived wet barracks, and fur-charging all the veflels in their bodies w7ith fruits,   which   before   their   arrival they never had feen, far lefs eaten, they contract nialignant quartans, and fluxes of all kinds, which very foon reduce their numbers to what I mentioned above.   That tliis might he helped I have no doubt: But as I am not Writing about medical aft'airs, I fhall fay no more of it here, left it may be difagreeable to many of my readers, who will find in die end of this work many obfervations upon the wretched condition of the garrifon at Riga, over which I had the direction as well as °f the army, and what ftruggles I chearful-h engaged in, and had fome better order introduced before I left them, which very few inhabitants in Riga are ignorant of, and which, I hope, the garrifon of that place *eaPs gr^at advantages to tliis day.
CHAP,
CHAP. LXII.
Concerning the Commerce of Aftrachan.
BEING, as I faid before, quite ignorant of mercantile affairs, I can only here give an account of the goods imported and exported to and from Aftrachan : Its merchants from very different nations, not only refide here for a time, but many are born in the place, and through length of time, feeing the advantages and privileges the Ruilian merchants enjoy, which foreigners cannot, they very frequently declare themfelves fub-jeefs of Ruftia, fo that at prefent many Armenians, who, every one knows, are the natural fubjects of either Perfia or Turkey, deny their allegiance to either of thefe mighty monarchies, and even, when they refide for a time in either of thefe empires, boldly claim the protection of the Ruilian ambaffa-dors, refidents, or confuls. This being the cafe, I may certainly afhrm that the produce of Perlia, Armenia, Georgia, India, Buchar, and Chiva, are imported by the Cafpian fea from all thefe countries ; fuch as filks, fat-tins, velvets, brocades, cotton cloaths of all denominations, jewels, fome drugs, copper and many other things, together with Perfi-an wines, and variety of fruits and fweet-
meats.
meats, confections, &c. From Ruflia they tranfport to Perlia, and the other nations named above, but very few goods; becaufe many articles of the produce of Rullia are prohibited to be exported to thefe nations, though they are allowed to be exported to the different nations in Europe. Thus, iron, hemp, pitch, tar, gun-powder, falt-petre, fulphur, flint-ftones and every thing fit for fhip-building and war, are reckoned contraband to be expoited to any port in Perfia. Meal only but by the immediate permiilion of the Court, is exported: Cloaths of different forts, woolen manufacfuries, fifh, fait and a few other things alfo are permitted to be exported ; the Armenians are allowed indeed to tranfport European goods of all fons, except warlike and naval ftores, but they muff fell none in Rullia, and muft buy them with the produce of raw filks of the Perflan growth, or jewels.
The Aftrachan merchants alone are allowed to have fliips on the Cafpian fea, and they generally have betwixt twenty and thirty for fea fervice, which they call heght boats. Thefe veffels carry, one with another, one hundred tuns, but are built very flat like the Holland fhips, and therefore are only fit for the coalt ; becaufe they cannot fail, like the Britiih, near the wind. Befides thefe fea veffels, they have barks for navigating the Volga, barks of a monitrous figure and fize,
fome
fome of them are more than a hundred feet long, and about forty feet broad, but not much above four or five feet deep, quite flat bottomed, in diefe barks, they tranfport fifh, fait, fee. to Ruflia ; they are warped up the river againll die ftrcam, wliich work neceffa-rily requires many hands, not fewer than two hundred. It is true that thefe large barks have each one mail, and a fail of incredible breadth, for the mail is not very long, but it is of no manner of ufe, unlefs the wind is very near right a-ftern. I have been told that they go at the rate of forty or fifty verfts in one day againft the ftream and wind, if*it is not very ftrong : But they neither fail nor warp in the night-time. Each bark is accompanied by three boats, one boat is conftantly at the ftern to receive the rope from the men who are warping, and as foon as they have received the whole length with its anchor, they run away a-head, to drop the anchor in a proper place, whilft the fecond boat is ready to deliver the rope to the men on board, and then fails down to the ftern to receive the rope again : Before the half of this rope is warped into the fecond boat, the third boat lies ready with a part of the rope it has fixed by an anchor, to be delivered on board the boats. Indeed, it is alraoft incredible how faft by this method, the bark is warped, nor does fhe ftand ftill one moment through the whole day, if the wind is not
very
Veiy high ; but if the wind is very high, they warp none till it is calmer.   The warpers are all accommodated with a broad belt of leather,  which lies on the right moulder, and is brought under die left arm, to this is joined a piece of fmall ftrong cord with a knot at the end, the warper toffeth the fmall rope round the great one, and in an inftant fixeth it, and moves forward as faft as they can go, and when they have readied the ftern of the bark, they immediately difen-gage themfelves, and return to the head. It is furprif! ng how expedition fly and regularly they perform this work.   I have been told that if pirates board their barks they call out, and let them know that they are pirates, and order them to fall down on their faces and lie in that pofture, till the pirates are gone. They accordingly obey, for they do not love fighting, and the pirates take what they ftand in need of, and depart without injuring either the men or hark, but if any look up when the pirates are on board, they run the rifque of being inftantly killed ; and if they fight With the pirates, and are overcome, no quarter will be granted, left they be difcovered. The Armenians however fight very bravely, and the pirates do not altogether relifli a combat with them,  unlefs they are veiy numerous, and well provided with arms.
Before I make an end of this chapter, I cannot pafs by a piece of hiftory which happened
pened this year with the pirates, who were laid to have been about two thoufand ftrong, and very well provided with good arms. They wrerc fo bold as to attack, and murder all who made refiftance, and not fatisfied with plundering paflengcrs on the river, they carried off from the neighbouring villages whatfoever they flood in need of. The Court having been duly informed of this ordered a regiment of dragoons to march a-gainft them, commanded by a Ruffian colonel : The colonel, not fiifpeCting any danger near, efpecially as he was marching a-gainft irregular banditti, drove forward for the convenieney of lodging, and left his re-> gimentto march flowly after him, commanded by his lieutenant colonel.    Long before he came near the place where they fufpected the pirates to be, one day foon after, the colonel had taken up ids lodgirig, and was re-pofing liimfelf on a bed, a fellow entered the room, and afked him if he was the commander in chief of the regiment ? The colonel ordered him otit of his prefence ; but, inftead of complying, he called out to his companions, who entered the room in great numbers, and moft imperioufly ftripped the colonel, and whipped him moft unmercifully, ordered him back, though he was all over covered with blood, to attend his regiment, and tauntingly told him, that what he had fuffered was only a fmall punifhment, for
not
hot underftanding his duty ; therefore advifed him not to part again with his regiment on a march, but added he would do well to'ad vile his fuperiors, that many iiich regiments would find it a hard task to reduce fuch a number of brave well-difciplined fellows as they were. In this however they were miferably iniftak-en ; for the governor of Cazan, having been informed of what had happened to the colonel,  ordered the brave Innes, of whom mention has been made formerly at the fiege of Otchakoff; Mr Innes took a very different method of marching, and loft no time to come up with them, and as foon as poftible he difpatched fome f enfible trufty fpiesf mounted on good horfes, and dreffed as peafants, and he took care to pafs all cities and great villages on the river in the night-time, through bye-roads, and, by this cautious Way, he came within a fmall diftance of the place Where they were, and was well informed that the pirates imagined themfelves in very great fafety, and were caroufing and making very merry at the expence of the former unfortunate colonel; that they were fo far from expecting any danger that they were encamp-; ed on the banks of the Volga, and not on any'of the iflands, which they conftanty do, when they dread any danger, and that their boats were at anchor hard by them.   1 lie colonel drew his men as near as he could, to prevent his being difcovered, and fent his fpies on foot to watch their motions: At
Yy - ; laft,
laft, word was brought, near the morning, that they were probably ileeping, as every thing m their camp was quiet.   The colonel encouraged his men, who loved him much, to obey command with exaclncfs, and declared, tliat all liis (hare of booty fliould be given to the dragoons : Then he ordered one party to ride up the banks of the river, and another to ride down the banks ; that thcie two parties fliould endeavour to get betwixt, them and their boats, and, at the fame time, fend off a few of the beft lwimmcrs to fecure the boats.  Whilft this was tranlacling, he, with a confiderahle divifion, marched ftraight upon them to prevent their getting into the woods, and in this manner, I was informed, he furrounded them, and took poflelfion of then* boats.     He ordered his men inftantly to fall on the main body, which they executed with great brifknefs ; many were killed as they lay fleeping, but many got their aims, and fought with lurpriling refolution and conduct.    At laft however, they were reduced to a veiy few, and moft of them wounded, who, for the love of living a few days longer in die greateft of mifery and many torments, and at laft the moft cruel of deaths, rendered themfelves prifoners to the victorious colonel, by whom they were fent to Cafan, tried by the governor,   and executed,  by hanging them up by the ribs alive, upon gibbets fixed upon floats. Five or fix men were thus hanged
ed upon one float, upon each of which written orders were palfed on the moft confpicu-ous places, commanding, that if the floats fliould perhaps be intangled, and fo flopped from going down with the ftream, whoever fliould happen to fee them, fliould pufli them off again ; and that whoever fliould be known to give the pirates any help or relief, fhould be punifhed with death in the fame manner.
When a report of this tranfacTion reached St Peterfburgh, every one applauded the conduct and bravery of Mr Innes, except fome rich Lords at court, whole villages, as has been faid, had been plundered by thefe banditti.   They accufed Mr Innes of granting the fpoil to the dragoons, being, as they faid, the property of their innocent peafants. They infilled on having Mr Innes brought to a court-martial, and tried for the fame.   I was informed, that orders were either making or niade out for this purpofe, when the news of the brave Jnnes's death prevented any further enquiry.   How far Mr Innes was right or Wrong, I fhall not take upon me to determine : Nor fhall I affert, whether any let of people, who have fuffercd by fuch a rcfpecT-' able body of villains, if I may be allowed to nle fuch an exprefiion, have any better right than others to be indemnified for their lofs ; nor "how it could well be poihble to afcertain that lofs, confidering that many things had
been
been fold, embezzled, or othenvays rendered invifible. But fure none could fay, that the colonel had any gain by it; and as lure he meant to act for the bell; and, tho* he might have very good reafons to put great trull in the bravery and refolution of his men, it cannot be denied, that, where interefl is in view, it gives additional refolution to the belt troops in the world. Though it were pollible to i-magine a body of 1500 men capable of being quite difinterefted, yet the thoughts of their fighting and expofing their lives to imminent danger, purely to enrich, if victorious, the minions of a court, would naturally damp their ardour ; and, when fuch practice is continued, it never fails to have that effect, and frequently worfe confequences, even the total fubverfion of government. Thus fell the jrcave Innes, the fcldier's friend, and beloved of all good men, whole lofs was juflly rcgrc-ted by all the armies of Ruffia. I neither ever bad the honour of his acquaintance, nor any of his relations ; and therefore, what I write Is intended purely to do j uflice to the memo~ ry of a man, who deferved a far better fate.
CHAP
G H A P. LXIV,
Concerning the Occurrences -which happened during the Author's firft abode in Aftrachan.
IT is eafy to be conceived, that after our arrival, the lingular parental-like behaviour of the Governor and his Lady to me, caufed every one believe, that I was no fmall favorite ; and therefore I was not a little careffed hy all degrees of the inhabitants. Some wantr ed to make me an advocate in then* affairs, by promifes and prefents, which I rejected with fuch difdain, that I was very foon eafed of a great deal of trouble.
The ice went off the day after our arrival; and, in a few days thereafter, the Governor and his family went by water to fee a filk-worm fhade, which an Armenian merchant had, by his knowledge and induftry, produced about two or three years ago. As the method of propagating lilk is very well known, I fhall % nothing of it here, but that the Armenian had planted the garden with mulberries four or five years before this, in lefs than two acres of ground; and he faid, that he hoped tliis year Would produce near a bale of good filk, and that in the year 1739, this infant factory had produced more than half a bale. The mulberry-trees were but very young, but the Armenian
menian got fome afliflance of mulberry leaves from other gardens.    I overheard them faying, that the great Emperor Peter had planted a mulberry-garden, for the propagating of {ilk-worms, at no great diftance from this place.    At our return, I, thinking that I was veiy foon to depart from this city, propofed to vifit the imperial filk-factory, not doubting that I would fee it in much greater perfection, as it was fird begun in Peter the Great's time.    That I might meet with no hindrance or flop, I laid nothing to any of the Governor's family, but privately caufed my iervant hire a boat to conduct me to this factory.   Accordingly, at the diftance of two verfts from Aftrachan, I was landed on a very pleafant ifland, on the top of which, near the middle, was built a very long houfe, dr rather a long line of houfes, with gardens on the north fide, which, I was told, was the factory. Thither I went, in great hopes of being very agreeably entertained; but how much was I difappointed, when, in this great building, I only found a poor woman, and fome mife-rable children, who told me, that her hufband was gone a-fifhing for their dinner ; that the great filk-work of Peter the Great was reduced to eight or nine worms, only to keep up the name of it, and give bread to this poor, lir/y, indolent, and ignorant family of beggars ; but I underflood, that an annual fum, allotted by Peter for propagating filk-worms,
pretty
pretty confiderable, was appointed for the relief of fome court beggars.
CHAP. LXV.
Concerning what happened in the Tear 1740 at Aftrachan.
IBegan to prepare for my departure for St Peterfburgh : The Prince however encouraged my (lay a little longer. At laft, about three weeks after our arrival in Aftrachan, one morning as I paid my refpects to the Prince, and was fully determined to follicit my paffport, the Governor put an Imperial decree from the medicine-chancery into my hand, and congratulated me by faying, that he was glad the chancery had given me a fuperior rank, by conftituting me principal furgeon in the port of Aftrachan, in the place of Mr Silvefter Malloch my countryman, and commanding all the furgeons in the rieet, gar-riibn and army, when they had no principal, or general furgeons in that kingdom, to take directions from me, and report regularly to me every month.
• Though it is very natural for mankind to be very fond of fame, and of being preferred to places of honour and truft, efpecially when «this is effected purely by merit; and though I deny not, that I was much pleafed that the
medicine-
medicine-chancery took fuch lingular notice of me, who, without any foilicitation, had advanced me, though I had onJy ferved four years, to be director to many very able furgeons, who had ferved the greateft part of their lives ; yet I thought I could perceive that this had been effected by fome fecret fervices of the Governor, and made free not to tell liim as much; and added, that his High-nefs might eaftly think how difagreeable it muft be to any man to have all his hopes at once fruftrated, and that by people of whom he had deferred better treatment.
The Prince, ever the fame man, fmiled, and told me, that he had indeed wrote to his friend the archiator, returned him thanks for fending me to have the care of him and his command, and warmly obferved the care I ever had taken of all the fick intrufted to me, and particularly of the advice I had given to defend the people under his command from the plague, at a time When our very near neighbours were fuffering fo much. He faid, diat he had prevailed upon me to attend the Princefs and two of her fick children to A-flrachan, and could not help exprefling fome uneafinefs at being obliged to part with me diere : And laftly, that he had intreated the archiator to ward off any reproof which I might be liable to from the admiralty, by fome order from the chancery approving of what I had done ; and concluded by faying,
that
that he indeed thought the archiator had fent this order for thefe reafons ; but that, as he had brought me to Aftrachan, he would ufe all his power and policy to get me removed, whenever it fliould pleaie heaven to remove himfelf; having laid this, he put a letter from the archiator to liim, in Latin, into my hands, and retired to bufinefs of more confequence.
When I had read the archiator's letter, I could entertain no manner of doubt that the Prince had told me the truth; efpecially when I confidered the whole conduct, of this illuftrious perfon, which was ever directed by honour and truth.    I next perufed the ukanfe, or imperial order, and by it obferved, that, about twenty years before this, the plague had made very great havock in Aftrachan, and therefore required that I fliould, with the greateft diligence, take all care to prevent this difeafe from appearing again, and immediately report to the chancery my having received the imperial decree, and what I found neceflary to be done to prevent the plague being brought into that country.    In tliis order I was informed, that the medicine-chancery, by a memorial of the fame date, had given notice to the college of admiralty, that I was appointed by the hofpital in Aftrachan, in the place of the principal furgeon Malloch, and requiring the college to caufe the commander of the port receive me in that capacity, and to give notice of the fune to every
Z, z one
one concerned ; laflly, to difmifs Mr Millech from the admiralty's fervice, who was to bo employed in St Peterfburgh. , I confidered Mr Malloch's intercfl. PIe was married, and had a wife and children ; I therefore fuppofmg that he might not know of this, and, unprepared, might receive orders to march from Aftrachan to St Peterfburgh in three days warning, with his family, (fuch politive and peremptory orders being frequently iflued, many of which I have, to my very great lofs, experienced ;) I for thefe reafons, without lofs of time, went to Mr Malloch, and fhewed him the orders I hacj juft received, no doubt thinking it would give him great joy to go to St Peterfburgh, and time to fell off all his houfehold furniture to the bell advantage ; but in this I was very much miftaken. I prefently faw liis colour go and come, and, from a chearful ferenenefs, he was quite over-clouded, nor could he hide the confufion he was in from the moft ignorant perfon, although he would gladly have made me believe that he was quite fatisfied. In fhort, that very evening, he had intereft c-liough with the officers, by the fleet, to get a courier difpatched to St Peterfburgh, without lofs of time ; and, it was faid, with veiy re-fpeclablc prefents to the gentlemen of the quill, who, hough many of them have fuffer-ed even death fo aking bribes, beftirred thcmfelves effecTtta ly in his caufe. They
found
found it however quite impofiible to retain him by the admiralty-holpital, but conftituted him chief furgeon over the garrilbn-hofpital, and thole of inarching regiments, commanding that he and I fliould monthly communicate to one another whatever happened remarkable in our feparate commands ; and that if any infectious alarming fevers fhould happen, in fuch a cafe, we were to lofe no time in conf ulting together; and immediately, by written reports, to acquaint the government and admiralty, what we thought moll proper to be done, and to fend a fuceinct report of every thing to the medicine-chancery.
Although the medicine-chancery had been very expeditious, the admiralty writers kept back the orders from being fent, eighteen months, as will afterwards appear. In the mean time, I had nothing to do but give attendance to my private patients, and, though I got no falary till orders were difpatched from the admiralty for that purpofe, yet at laft I received every farthing ; and, having f) 'are time, made double that fum by my private patients.
In the month of May, when the air was very ferene and extremely hot, being invited, I went a-hunting with many gentlemen, and the Prince's two eldefl fon. . The heat, being greater than any I had ever experienced, obliged me to let down the brims of my hat, and take off my periwig.   At our return,
on]y
only the Governor's children and I, out of the whole company, who were not accuftom-ed to fuch hot air, complained of a pungent pain, heat, and itchinefs in our faces ; but my head, being clofe fhaved, and flioulders, were as bad as my face.    The Princefs anointed her children with frefh butter, but I took no great notice of it: However, next day they were much better, but I fuffercd a finart eryfipclas on all thefe parts, and at laft loft the epidermis, which prevented my hunting, except in a morning very early, before the heat grew to great height.    I ufed frequently, in a morning, to go in company with the Governor's eldeft fon, to {hoot.   One morning we went to a morafs betwixt a riling ground and the Volga, on the banks of which many Kalmucks had formed a camp.  As there was a great fcarcity of water-fowl, we thought proper to feparate, to no great diftance however.   I unknowingly approached a hollow place,  where many dogs were making a breakfaft on a dead Kalmuck.    The dogs inftantly attacked me; I fired my gun among them, but, though I killed one, it had no ef-fecT in frightening the reft ; I therefore was obliged, with my clubbed fowling piece, to keep them off, by turning round, which ex-ercife I could not have performed long, if the young Prince had not perceived my danger, and refcued me by firing among them. In the mean time, I loaded, whilft they fur-rounded
rounded him, and gave diem one other discharge, which dhniniflied their number, and poflibly wounded others. After this they fled to their mafters, and we returned home, both in great fright.
In the afternoon, in company with fome young officers, to whom we had related tliis affair, we went upon the banks of the Volga, and, with our piftols, did not leave a Kalmuck dog alive within two miles of Aftrachan*.
The Prince I mentioned above, was the fame who lately was minifter from Ruffia to the Court of Great Britain, and, at prefent, I am agreeably informed, is vice-chancellor to the Empire of Ruftia. Prince Alexander, for that is his name, was then indeed a moft pro-mifing youth; wherefore, I am not furprifed at his prefent elevation, for he was early and effectually taught the beauty of virtue and the deformity of vice, had naturally noble fentiments, which were improved and brought to perfection by the great example of liis illuftrious parents.
* I mention this trifling affair, that the reader may fee how dangerous it is to go near thefe dogs accuflomed to eat human bodies. It may appear trifling to fome, and very ufeful to others.
CHAP.
CHAP. LXVL
A Continuation of what happened in the Tear 1740.
ABOUT the month of June, the brave Kalmuck Prince Donduk Ambo died, it was faid, of a fever. The Ruffian court now intended to appoint one named Donduk Daf-chee, Prince over the Kalmucks. They had kept him in Cafan many years in a princely manner, had carefled him much, with a view to get him fo far in the interefl of Ruffia, as to perfuade the Kalmucks to live in cities and villages on the banks of the Volga, and no more wander about the defart in tents.
Donduk Ambo's lady, a Circaflian by birth, defcended of one of the moll illuftrious families in Circaffia, wras of a different opinion. She had five children to Donduk Ambo, and very naturally wiflied that her children fhould fucceed their father; and therefore at prefent fummoned all the Kalmuck chiefs to attend at her tent. They frankly enough c-fpoufed her caufe, and determined to keep near her perfon. It was faid, at tliis time, that fne had a body of at leaft 40,000 men, all warriors, who had been tried under the orders of the late Donduk Ambo. She encamped on the weft fide of the Volga, over-
againft
againft Aftrachan, till the beginning of Au-guft, and then marched through the defart fouth to the borders of Circaftia, where they wintered, and where I now leave them tifl next year.
In the month of Auguft, one named Ana-ftatius, a Greek merchant, arrived in Aftrachan from Buchara : He gave privately an account to the Governor, that, under pretence of going to trade in different parts of Tartary, for which purpofe he had obtained proper paftports from Kuli Khan, who, he faid, had conquered Buchara and Chiva, wliich indeed was very true. He faid, that Kuli Khan had caufed make a very uricf enquiry a-mong the merchants who were acquainted with the defarts betwixt Chiva and Aftrachan, about the diftance, water, provifions, the nations who inhabit thefe defarts, and wranted to know if it was poffible to march a great army from thence to Aftrachan ; and he, Kuli Khan, further enquired of Anaftatius many things concerning the forces and ftrength of Aftrachan. I fay, under pretence of going into different parts of Tartary, Anaftatius obtained a paffport from the Shach, but, as foon as he thought himfelf to be out of clanger of being taken by any Perfian party, he directed his courfe ftraigbt to Aftrachan, to acquaint the government of their clanger. 1 he governor was well fatisfied that no truft was to be put hi the friendly meftage; wh'ch were
frequently
frequently fent to Ruffia by that tyrant ; as for honour, he never laid claim to any. At this time the Shach had an ambaffador at the court of Rullia, and was fending two who were in Kizlaar with twenty elephants, and many valuable prefents to the Emprefs and her minifters, being part of the fpoils he had taken from the Great Mogul. But all thefe figns of friendfhip fignificd very little, fince it wTas very well known, that, upon the pretence of friendfhip, he had frequently invaded his neighbour's countries, and not only deftroy ed all the beft of the natives, but effectually ruined thefe countries, and gave up the fubjecls to the moft unparalleled cruelties ; and all the women, without diftindion, to fatisfy the lnft of his brutal army. Soon after Aftanatius had brought this true information, it was corroborated by many others, who had fled from the cruelties of the mon-ftrous Kuli Khan. He had marched his army againft Buchara in the year 1 740; the Prince of which country, finding liimfelf unable to ftand out againft fuch a numerous army of devils, caufed open the gates of his capital and the other cities belonging to him, and fixed for mercy, which for once was granted, alledging that the Prince of Buchara was the true defcendent of Mahomet, and therefore ought to meet with adoration from all the true believers. Kuli Khan took nothing from tliis prince, but begged, that he
would
would grant him one of his daughters, that he might mile up a progeny of the defcend-ents of Mahomet, who might in after ages fway the fceptre of Perfia.    Tliis favour was cahly obtained.    From Buchara he marched directly for Chiva ;  but thefe brave ignorant people did not properly receive him, but upbraided him in the grofleft manner, which railed his pailion to fuch a height, that he fat down before their city, and in a fhort time made very many large breaches in the walls, and particularly overthrew one veiy ftrong battery, in which the deluded inhabitants placed their greateft hopes. When he was giving the neceflary orders, and making difpoiitions for an immediate ailault, the inhabitants begged for mercy, and  opened their gates. '1 he Shach, at this time proceeding with good policy, ordered ftrong guards to take polfeilion of the gates, and, by found of trumpets, difcharged any of his army to enter the city, or in any fliape moleft the natives or foreign merchants, who might be found there : He next caufed a ftrong party enter the city, patrole the flreets, and place fafe-guards at the gates of all the caravanferas in it, forbidding either natives or foreigners, on pain of death, to appear in the ftreets, till further orders. Next he caufed fcize the Khan and his counfellors, whole heads were chopped off. Next day he declared a general pardon, and permitted foreigners to bring their
3 A prefents
prefents to his camp. This account I had from a countryman who was prefent, and believe every word to be true.
After he had conquered thefe inhabited countries, he could proceed no farther for defarts infefted by wandering hoards of Tartars, which inhabited die defarts betwixt him and Aflrachan ; and underftanding from every perfon, who knew thefe defarts, that it would be quite impoflible to march his army thro' them, he garrifoned Chiva, and the other towns belonging to that principality, with a numerous body of men, and returned into Perfia by the way of Aftrabat, Mezanderan, Cafbin and Ardevil, with a defign, as was given out, to punifli die rebellious Lefgee Tartars : Of which expedition, and his fuccefs, I fhall give the hiftory hi a more proper place.
CHAP. LXVII.
Continuation of what happened in the Tear 1740.
UPON being well affured of the truth of Anaftatius's information, the careful Governor loft no time in .acquainting the court, and in caufing ftrong lines to be drawn round the fouth of Aftrachan, at the diftance of one verft from the city, well ftrengthened with batteries, upon which cannon were fixed.   He fent into the defeat many parties of
dragoon^
dragoons and irregulars, to watch die motions of whoever palled thefe defarts, and to bring him all intelligence. He diipatched orders to the relident and conful in Perfia, requiring them to fpare no coft to get all the intelligence polfible of the defigns of Kuli Khan.
In the latter end of July, nineteen elephants arrived on the weft banks of the Volga, with an ambaflador called Huflein Khan, and a great number of attendants, in their Way to St Peterfburgh.   The principal am-bafTador, Sadat1 Khan, a great favourite of the Shach, died of a flux at Kizlaar, and the one who came with the elephants, wanted much to have wintered in Aftrachan, threatening to return to his m after in cafe of a denial; but the Governor let him know, that in Aftrachan there was neither provifion nor conveniences for his retinue, being live hundred men and elephants ; that he was at full liberty, either to proceed on his way to St Peterfburgh, or return, when he flfould be efcorted with four regiments of dragoons under the orders of Major general Apraxin, who had convoyed them from Kizlaar to this place. The only liberty which this ambalfador could obtain, was to be permitted to go into a bagnio with a few of his followers.   During his ftay in Aftrachan, (which was only a few hours,) all care was taken, that neither Perfians nor Tartars were permitted to go to liim, except fuch in whom die Governor could confide,
and
and who had dieir inftruetions given diem. , I went over the river to fee thefe menders, in company with the field-apothecary, and as we could not lpeak with the Perfians, and the dragoons being at fome diftance from the e-lephants, becaufe the horfes were terrified for them, we went to one who feemed to be the largefl, with two fmaller female ones, one on each fide. They were all chained by the hinder legs with ftrong iron chains. The male elephant made great noife, and with his trunk flruck the ground lb veiy ftrongly, that we thought the earth trembled. Little did we know the danger we were in, nor the reafon of all this paflion, when a little Indian got up, from among the hay which the beafts were eating, with a lance in his hand, made ligns for us to retire, fpoke angrily to the elephant, and then thruft the fpear many times into his fides. At laft, after he had thus punifhed liim, he again fpoke, but the beaft did not feem to relifh this treatment, wherefore he began again to wound him with a very broad fpear, when at length the monftcr made a particular kind of noife, and laid his left fore leg outward, upon which the Indian crept, till he got on his back, from whence he moved forward, till he was feated right behind his ears ; then he took an ax, fuch as we break fugar with, only on the oppofite fide to the cutting edge, was a pike about a finger-length, with which he beat the beaft on
the
the head, and fpoke to liim betwixt every blow, till he had punillied him fufficiently. A man palling by, who fpoke the Ruffian and Indian language, told us, that we had been in great danger, and that the beaft was very angry that we approached fo near the females; that this elephant was the only one in the number, who was not as yet rightly tamed, and therefore very dangerous. Tliis was not faying much for the natural fagacity of the e-lephant, though ever fo wild, to be jealous of the apothecary and me with his miftreftcs; but, on the other hand, it is certain, that thofe who are well tamed, and ufed with mankind, do behave in a very extraordinary manner. An inftance of which, for the entertainment of the reader, Ell venture to give as I was informed by General-major Aoraxin. It is this :
When they went out of Kizlaar, many of the inhabitants went to fee the elephants; a-niong the reft was a felf-fufficient proud prieft, ftrutting with great ftatelinefs to expofe his importance to the common people. This clod of pride the general fpied, and privately fent one of his fervants to defire the governor of a very large elephant, but quite tame and docile, to frighten the prieft rwithout hurting him. At the Indian's pronouncing the word of direction, the elephant reared his long trunk in the air, made a great noife, and approached the prieft.   The multitude fled,
but
but the elephant kept elofe to the prieft, who fled into the del art. As he palled near a large pit made for catching wild beafts (which will be defcribed when I arrive in Circalfia) about eight or nine feet deep, he ran to it, and jumped in, there thinking he would be fafe. The beaft followed, and immediately, I fuppofc as directed, threflied on each fide of the pit, wliich was loofe ground, fo violently, that the earth tumbled down upon him • wherefore, he was obliged to fcramble up, left he had been buried alive. However, when he was very tired, and effectually frightened, the elephant went away, and the prieft was carried home, as was reported, in a very homely ftinking condition, nor did he recover bis fright foon.
I faw thefe creatures go away, conveyed by four regiments They moved from the fouth fide of a hill, northward, up the banks of the Volga. It is incredible how frighted the Ruffian horfes were for them, the flouteft dragoons could not command them to go near. On the back of one of the largeft tame elephant, they had a machine fixed, where two or three men could fit, railed about. I was told, tliat the ambaflador, in company widi one or two'more, ufed fometimes, in a pleafant day, to fit there for a clay's journey. Although, as has been obferved, their chains were very weighty, yet they dragged them with great eafe ; and their ordinary walk requires
quires an ordinary horfe to trot, to keep pace with them. As that animal is fo well known, I fhall fay no more about it at pre-* lent.
CHAP. LXVIII,
The Author treats of the different anecdotes as they happened in the courfe of this year.
IHad been in Aftrachan about two or three weeks, when one afternoon Paftor Wife payed me a vifit: He afked me, If I was of the reformed religion ? I anfwered him in the affirmative. He faid that he had been informed fo, and told me that he  rejoiced at it, and faid he doubted not that I adhered to the kirk of Scotland. I laid I did, and at prefent believed I fliould not change, tho' I began to entertain a very good opinion of the church of England.   He faid that of the < two he loved or cfteemed the kirk beft, but tliat he alfo had a very great opinion of the purity of the doctrine of the church of England ; and that the Englifli church had produced fome of the moft learned divines in the world.   Then he afked me, Why I had not been at church fince my arrival in Aftrachan? I faid, that I underflood the German language veiy imperfectly, nor did I know the method of worfhip in their church, never
having
having once been in any, that I fcarcely could read the German print, and that I looked upon every one, who pretended to join in divine worfhip with others whom they did not undcrftand, to be hypocrites.   He begged I would entertain no fuch opinion, that I would come to church, and made me a prefent of a German bible, laying, that if f read it frequently, God would afhft me foon to underftand the language, and, without oivino- me time to return an anfwer, immediately kneeled down, and prayed. He was, I dare fay, a very good man ; but a great cnthufiaft. I accepted of his bible, and indeed foon learned the German language, but this was owing to my daily keeping company with the Germans in Aftrachan.
Mr Wife told me, that he had been preacher to Count Muinich, but that, at the earneft defire of Brigadier Younger, and the gentlemen belonging to the garrifon, he came there: But laid, that it was expected the brigadier would foon leave this place, and, when thatftiould happen, he would go with him ; becaufe Colonel Pile, the eldcft officer belonging to the garrifon, bore him a grudge, nor had paid him his falary, according to his fubfeription, for one year bypaft, and that many others had done the fame thing ; be* caufe he had reproved him for feizing the effects belonging to one of Prince Dolgaruka's family, after his death, though he had left
a wife
a wife in no veiy opulent circumftances. He faid, that the Prince had a great liking to the colonel's lady, and diat flie had, in his laft days, perfuaded him to this, and that he had granted a will in her favour, in prejudice of his own wife, which he thought not only dif-graced themfelves, but would have brought a reproach on the foreigners, if he had not burnt the will, and lb forced them to deliver tip the Prince's effects to his widow.   I afked him, How he attempted to burn the will ? or how he got poffeilion of it ? He laid, that foreigners were fo univerfally fcandalized on this account, that he went to the houfe and expofluJated with them ; but finding that this ferved only to inflame them againft him, he defired to fee this will, that he might fay whether it was genuine • Accordingly the will was produced, and when Madam had gone into another room, he committed it to the fire in. prefence of the colonel, who was fo old and ftiff that he could not reach the fire till it was confumed : And this fioifhed, and faid, he prelently withdrew, and never entered the houfe again.    They fwore revenge, but were obliged to reftore eveiy thing be-lonpinpr to the deceafed Prince; and hitherto the brig'adier had protected him.    Ot this I gave our governor a very f uccincT: account, who next day fent, and defired the paftor would dine with liim : He fent alfo for the colonel, and after dinner gently fpoke of
3 B that
that affair, and told Mr Wife, that if any, fit either garrifon or army, had iigned a call for him to come as parfon to Aftrachan, and had annexed a certain fum of money : And if, at any time, any of thefe officers refilled to pay the fum they had voluntarily fubferibed; upon Mr Wife's complaint, he would order payment immediately, and a ftop to, be put to their falary till all was clear.   He told him alfo, that he would protect him, and every honeft man, as long as he governed that kingdom, let their religion be what theypleafed. The governor pronounced this fentence with fuch a determinate countenance, that next day the poor parfon got all his demands paid up : But the colonel and apothecary fwore they never would enter the church as long as Mr Wife was there ; which oath was alfo broken, when the apothecary buried his fon. By their rules, the dead body is brought into church, when a fhort fermon upon luch occafions is preached before burial: In that fermon, the pallor lafhed them veiy feverely before the whole congregation.    He faid, that men that had bound themf elves by oath never to enter the church fo long as pallor Wife preached there, but God had determined that they fliould enter the church either dead or alive.    He laid,  that whoever were fo foolifh as to make fuch promifes, did not attend to the will of God, who it was evident, by the melancholy example before us,
was
was determined to bring them upon fuch occafions, and advifed them rather to walk into the church, as their duty required, or elfe God would caule them to be carried into this houfe when dead, and when it was dubious whether they had a chance for falvation. He, I thought, upon this occafion, carried his re-fentment too far, and, in place of cementing differences, made, as he well might have forcleen, the breach not only wider; but provoked other people, and in fhort was loon thereafter, in company with the good brigadier, obliged to leave Aftrachan. I was informed tliat he went to Pruflia, and was much carcffed in that kingdom.
C II A P. LXVIII.
Concerning Monfteur Pierre Pojfet and his Adventures.
IHad been but a fhort time in Aftrachan, when I was made acquainted with a French refugee called Pierre PofJet, who gave me the following relation of his adventures. He was at that time about fixty years of age ; and Mrs Poflet, both French, was fifty. Mr Poffet faid, that when lie was veiy young, his father was taken up and broken on the wheel, after lie had iuifered unheard of tortures ; and a fmall eftate wliich belonged to
their
their family was annexed to the crown of France, becaufe he openly profefted the Reformed Religion, nor would renounce-it to the laft. Mr Poftet was, when his father fuffcred, nine or ten years old i He v/as liis only child, and was fent to a monaftery, to be educated according to the Roman principles : But after the priefts had half flarved him, whipped, and othenvays tortured him, finding they could not prevail, they appoint-" ed him to work hard in their gardens daily under fevere difcipline : At laft, however, he got an opportunity, and, in great danger, elcaped. He laid, that as he had great reafon to be diffatisfied with their unheard of cruelties, he loft no opportunity of doing them all the injury he pofiibly could during his flay there, wliich was about three years, and very feldom was fuibec'ted. When he had efcaped, he went begging thro* France, till he was preffed into the King's fervice, as a draooon, where he ferved till the Kino; of France loft a battle on this lide the Alps. At which time, the Reformed, who were in the royal army, defhted in a body, and fled into Tirol, and thence difperfed through Germany and other countries. Poftet took his road to Holland, from thence into England; betwixt wliich countries, having gotten fome fmall flock, and credit from the refugees in London, he traded fome years, and married in Holland.   At laft, be went to
Ruftia,
t
Rullia, and, as fuder, he followed the Ruffian army to the flcge of Afoph, which was the fuit expedition Peter the Great made a-gaiaft the Turks. When Afoph was taken, PolTet had intereft to be appointed, with a good falary, overfeer of the vine-gardens in Afoph, and continued there till Afoph was a-gain reftored to the Turks, by the unfortunate treaty of the Pruith. During this time, Poffet, who had knowledge in commerce, had made a pretty fortune : But inclined to go to Aftrachan, where he was appointed principal over the Emperor's vine-gardens, by a contract during his life, by which he was to have good houfes to dwell in, and the whole produce of the garden for his maintenance, except what fruits might be required by the Court, and forty men maintained at the Empire's expence to work in the garden, which garden was at leaft forty acres of the beft ground.
Pierre was thus employed long before I arrived in Aftrachan, and alio continued in the fame way when I left it; where he had made a very great fortune, and had a family of two fons and a daughter. His eldefl fon was lame, and died there, liis fecond, Cornelius Poftet was fent as futlcr to Afoph, the laft time it was befieged and taken, as has been already noticed, by the late ever victorious Field Marfhal Count Lacy. Young Cornelius, who abhorred being a Hitler,
ler, foon fpcnt all the money his father had intruded him with, which was the fum of 2000 rubles. He gave credit indilcriminate-ly to all the officers who were in want, and only took their notes of hand. When he was reduced, and his father would not anfwer his demands, he entered into the army as volunteer. It was not long before he was advanced to the rank of ferjeant, and, what is very remarkable three or four clays prccecxl-ing the capitulation of Afoph ; he went a volunteer to the ftorming of a breach three different times, and, agreeable to the Ru£ flan regulations, every time he was advanced one rank liigher ; fo that when the city capitulated, he was captain of dragoons, and in that quality marched with us to Perfia, in which expedition he behaved fo well that he was advanced to a majority when we returned,
Old Poftet in his younger days fuffered much mifery, and, as he has frequently told me, efcaped many imminent dangers: Bat one he efcaped at Aftrachan, which was well known to all the inhabitants, and which for its fingularity, I think deferves to be related, as it will I doubt not be agreeable to the jeader.
I laid, that he had a good houfe in the vine-gardens. This houfe, in which he lived, was built of timber, two ftories high, which formed one fide of a fquare, facing which
was
was another houfe, in which the labourers of the garden dwelt, and a large gate, which formed another lide ; ftables and other necef-fary houfes made a third fide, and the fourth was fmjfhed with palifadoes betwixt it and the garden. Poller was univerfally accounted one of the richer! men in Aftrachan, tho* he made no great fliew of it: He was the principal banker in or about the city, and his houfe was well furnifhed with the bell and largefl quantity of filver-plate and porcelain.
One night, as. they were going to bed, a violent knocking at the door fummoned liim to enquire into the caufe. He was anfwered, that it was an exprefs from the Governor, requiring his immediate attendance in his palace, and that there was an Order for him. Sufpecling no harm, he opened the door, and foon was made fenfible, that he was at the mercy of a band of robbers, confifling of 40 men, armed with knives and bludgeons. They told him, that they had carefully fecu-red his men by barricading the door, and placing ftrong guards there, and alfo at the window ; therefore defired him, without further trouble, to give them all the money and value in his houfe. Poffet, feeing diere was no help, allured them, that, if they would fpare his life and Mrs Pellet's, he would inflantly deliver to them every thing in his houfe. This was agreed to, and Poffet kept his word, hut they, not regarding their promife, moft
unmercifully
unmercifully beat both Mr and Mrs PolFe^ ftrippcd her naked, and tied her to a tree in the garden, though it was extremely cold weather^   They alfo tied Mr Pollet's hands and feet together; and, as one of them was taking a long knife out of its fheath, to cut his throat, whilft he was putting up his fop* plications to heaven for the fafety of his foul, all hopes of relief having vanifhed, an old foldier, whom Poffet kept to take care of the ftoves, and do any little work about the houfe, had efcaped the robbers fearch in the garret ; he made faff the entry into the gar-ret, and, from a window, called out, as if he had been directing a captain how he might difpofe of his men to catch all the robbers. The robbers overhearing that an effectual af-fiftance was fo near, in the greateft confterna--tion and hurry, evacuated the houfe, and made their efcape through the vine-garden. The foldier, feeing that the coaft was clear,, loft no time in letting the labouring people out of their confinement, and releafing Poffet and his wife, almoft frozen to death. The villains had earned off all his plate and money.    Poffet not thinking liimfelf as yet fe-cure, efcorted by a few of his workmen, went to the city about half a mile diflant, and applied to the commandant, who fent a company of foldiers to watch his houfe. Another company was directed to patrole the ftreets with great fecrecy;  wliile other foldiers,
dreffed
dreffed as boors, were fent into fuch houfes as fold 1 iquor, with orders to fecure all fuch boors as changed rubles or ducats, for examination.   Before noon next day, the greateft. part were taken, and Poffet recovered al-moft every thing, though, no doubt, he was at fome expence in employing fo many people.    The foldiers got little more than meat and drink, becaufe they are not allowed to take money for doing their duty. Thefe mi-ferable banditti, after the moft cxquifite torture, finifhed their wretched lives, by being-broken on the wheel, or hung up by the ribs, till they expired, except a few who died in prifon. After this, Mr Poffet never duril live in the country, but retired to the city, where he was living when I left Aftrachan, in die year 1748.   Scarcely any thing is more a-grecable to mankind than to know the manners, euftoms, or fofhious of different nations; and this curioiity prevails with the bulk of the human race all the world over, therefore the following need to furprize none.
Mr Poftet was accuftomcd to lure from the Tartar Muzlas, a number of their men, in the fpring time, to drefs the vine-gardens, for he had fine gardens his own property, into which he never permitted the labourers belonging to the Empire to enter, left they might have accufed him of employing them in dref-fing his own gardens, which would have rilk-i ed his forfeiting them: He therefore was weft 3 C acquainted*
acquainted with the Tartar Muzlas, who had been many years hofpitably entertained in his, Mr PofTet's, houfe; they therefore prevailed with him to go with Mrs Poller, in the fum-jner-time, to their camp, to take a dinner, obliging themfelves to put no reftraint on either of them, which the difference of religion, (they being all Mahometans) might have probably occafioned. It is well enough known,that the Mahometans arc very careful to keep themfelves very clean, by bathing, dcpilation, or taking off the hah which grows about the greater emunclories upon the body, and by frequent daily ablutions, particularly before and after repairs. At Mr and Mrs Poffet's arrival, dinner was ferved up, confifting principally of mutton and fowls. After dinner was over, Mrs Poffet cxprefted fome delire to vifit their wives, which was complied with. She accordingly was introduced into a large tent, where many of the Muzfas wives had aflembled, no doubt to fee and converfe with a Chriftiaii, with whom they very rarely, if ever, had any correfpondence. The men had not long retired into their former tent, to converfe about their affairs, till they were a-larmed with a great {'creaming among the women, but Mrs Pollers voice was heard much louder than any of the reft ; whereupon Poffet, forgetting tliat it was dangerous and very rude, immediately ran to, and, without a-ny hefitation, entered the womens tent, where
he
he fpied die Tartar women fitting oppo-fite to Mrs Poffet, expoling what modefty requires fhould be hid, and two of them wanted much to explore what Mrs Pallet would have kept fecrct. Mr Poffet immediately relcued his wife, and the Tartars were no ways diflatisned with Poffet's going into their wives tent. Mr Poflet faid, that he frequently went and vifitcd the Tartars, but Mrs Poflet never could be prevailed upon to repeat her viiits. The old woman acknowledged the truth of this. Hiftorlcal examples, of themfelvcs not difagreeable,ferve not only to amufe young readers, but more effectually to fix in their memories the cu-floms and manners of countries, and, as it were, force them to learn geography better than any fyftern whatever ; which is one reafon why I fometimes have related frories of themfelves not very mterefling, for which, I hope, the learned reader, if he has good principles, will pardon me,
C IT A P, LXX.
Concerning different Affairs which happened this Tear.
AS no orders were fent from the admiralty, appointing me to take care of the fick belonging to the port, I had much time on
my
my hands, and thought it my duty to give my opinion about the proper way to prevent the plague from making its appearance in Aftrachan.    I therefore gave in va petition to the prccawfe or government's chancery, and font a copy of it to the medicine-chancery, chiefly reprefenting, that we cotdd not be free of the danger of getting the plague in fuch a very hot kingdom as Aftrachan, unlefs the inhabitants were ordered to keep every thing as clean and free from putrefaction as polftble, both without and within doors, wliich I imagined would not be difficult to be clone, if the following rules were carefully attended to.    I obferved that the common people buried their dead in the churchyards, both within and without the city, very litpcrricially, fcarcely covering the coftin half a foot with earth ; which, confidering the looicnefs of the foil, gave the greateft chance to promote the difeafe we were fo much afraid of; and that many were buried in churchyards not fenced about, fo that horfes and carriages drove frequently over the graves, and, in this dry climate, rendered the earth finely pulverized,which was eaiily carried away by the firft guft of wind, expoled the coffins to view a veiy few clays after interment: That the noi-fome fmell, and a vifkation of the churchyards, would prove what I had aftcrted, to be true.   I therefore defired, that, without lofs pf time, this might be altered, by ordering the
church-
churchyards to be fenced In, or by preventing wheel'd machines or horfes ever to pafs through thefe places ; and laftly, to order the graves to be made very deep.   I next repre-lented the Joathfome manner in which the Kalmucks expoled their dead, not only in the neighbourhood of Aftrachan, but under the walls of the city, where dogs, crows, and fivine were daily to be feen feeding upon them, to the great lhame and danger of a well regulated government.   I therefore re* quired, that, fince it was contrary to their law to bury, they fliould be obliged either to burn them, or eaft them into the Volga. . I next took notice of the dead-houfe being not a verft diftaiit from the city, the putrid exhalations of which, when the wind blew, might be obferved to be very offenlivc, on the lee-fide, at the diftance of three verfts.    This being an unanfwerable proof that the inhabitants of the city were daily obliged to refpire air much faturated with one of the well known caufes of the plague, I begged tliat, whatever the archbiftiop and his priefts might alledge to the contrary, the prefent dead-houfe fhould be filled up, and a new one creeled at a rca-fbnable diftance from the city.   Laftly, I cle-monftrated the danger of pennitting the merchants to form many great flacks of fat fifli about the city, and begged that a ftop might be put to this practice ; and that the ftreets and houfes in and about the city be kept
fweet
fwect and clean. I next fubmitted to their confideration, Whether it would not conli-derably tend to the prefervation of this kingdom, if they gave directions to then refidents and confuls attending the empires and principalities of the neighbouring nations, to make known to the princes and others concerned, in die moft exprefs and public manner, that none of their fubjecls fhould be admitted into the kingdom of Aftrachan, unlefs they had a teftimonial of health, fUo-fcribecf by the Ruffian refident or conful I That, to prevent effectually any people froax entering into the kingdom, ftrong guards fhould be appointed in different places, to caufe all fuch, who came without the proper teftimonial, remain in quarantine for three months in fummer, and fix weeks during the winter.
My petition met with all the fuccefs I could expect from the governor of Aftrachan, and alfo from the medicine-chancery. I was the better pleafed, that all the inhabitants were quite well allured it was deflgned for their good. None objected to any thing but the archbiftiop and Kalmucks. The firft faid, that none had a right to appoint him a place where to form the dead-houfe ; and the laft, that it was difagrecable to their religion to be obliged to throw their dead into the Volga; but both were forced to fubmit to thefe regulations. The proud bilhop bore me a grudge for
this
this'ever after, tho* he could not have (hewed his dilfike to one who valued it lefs than I did.
The archbilhop, three or four months after this, childiflity enough, intended to affront me in the following manner: He had a houfe and church, built upon one of the branches of the Volga, diitant about one verfl eafl from A-flrachan, near to which were fome fwamps and lakes, wrell flored with a variety of waterfowl : Thither I went in a boat, to take ibme diverfion with my fowling-piece. At the hearing of a fhot, the bifliop fent five or fix fervants, with orders to take my piece from me: As they approached, I drew near to my boat, which lay covered under the bank of the river, out of fight. When I was within call of the crew, I demanded what the prieflly people wanted ? With much impudence, they laid, that the archbilhop had fent them to take my gun from me, becaufe the ground belonged to the church, and he allowed no creature to be killed there. I faid, that I was certain the ground was the Emprefs's, whom I had the honour to ferve, and that I had a very good right to divert myfelf innocently there, as well as in other places, and defired them, if they valued their fafeties, to keep at a due diftance, otherways I was determined firft to let them experience what the gun was charged with, and next to treat them as robbers. Our difcourfe was overheard by five failors who were in the boat; they inflantly
made
made their appearance, armed with ftiffened ropes in their hands, which die failors in Ruffia" frequently cany in their pockets, and therewith, without the fmallefl ceremony, ex^ erciied their dexterity upon the backs of thefe fools fo well, that they foon took to their heels, and happy was he who firft reached the bifhop's houfe ; for the failors would not leave off, though the biftiop called to them from his window. After which time I never was more troubled by him*
CHAP. LXXI.
Concerning the Death of the Emprefs Anna Iva. novna, &c<
ON the 17th of October, old ftile, the Emprefs Anna Ivanovna died at St Peterfburgh. She Wi3tS the only daughter of the Czar Ivan or John (elder brother of Peter the Great) who furvived Peter the fecond. She was married to Frederick-William, Duke of Courland, in the year 1710, on the 1 3th of February O. S. but the Duke died in January 1711, and left no children. His Lady, the Dutchefs, reigned in Courland till the year 1730, when, after the death of Peter the fecond, fhe was declared Emprcfs on the .29th of January the fame year. As this affair, fo far as I know, never has been made
public,
public, and, as I was informed of the follow^ ing things by many perfons who had a fhare in them, efpecially as I hope it will be agreeable to the reader, I (hall give him an account of what palled at this time, as briefly as I can.
At the death of Peter the fecond, the lords, who were at die head of affairs, detached to Courland many noblemen of the firft families and rank in Rudia, among whom was Prince Michael Golitzin, the fame with whom I went to Aftrachan. They conducted her from Courland to a village within feven verfts of Mofcow, with all the ceremonious pomp to wliich her higrh birth intitled her. Here how-ever flie was defired to halt, till flie had fign-* ed an inftrument, which was made out by the great lords in the regency, by which flie was declared Emprefs of all the Ruftias, fee. according to uliial form ; but it was required, that flie, on her part, fliould oblige herfelf, and her heirs, to take into her and their councils, eight or nine noblemen, chofen from the families of Ruffia who were at the head of affairs at this time, of which number the Dolga-ratti were the principal. The Emprefs did not relifli this unexpected attack upon her power, which flie thought was her birth-right; but, by the advice of her friends, the chief of whom was a Courland gentleman, Mr Byron, now Duke of Courland, Ihe figned the deed, hoping for better times, and made ready for
3 D her
her entry into Mofcow next dny, through many fuperb triumphal arches prepared on this occafion.
The lords of regency, full of fecurity, as they thought, next morning fummoneel the guards, and all nobility and gentry, to make their appearance in the metropolitan church, in order to confirm this agreement or deed by their oaths. A gentleman, Vafilic Nikitetch Tatifiioff, afterwards governor of Allrachan, who was only a lieutenant, ltanding near the altar, as foon as the deed was read, and the gendemen firft in rank were defired to fign it) and give their oaths, declaring, diat they would (land by it with their lives and fortunes, unaffifted by any, jumped into the chancel, and, with a loud voice, called to the guards to hear What he had to fay. The great lords ordered to knock him down ; but the guards furronnded him widi their drawn broad fwords, and declared, that Mr Tatifnorf fhould be heard, and threatened to put any to death who fliould offer the leaft hurt to him. Silence enfuing, Mr Tatifiioff began, by telling them what they verv well knew, viz. That their government of Ruffia was abfolute, and fiiited belt with their empire : That ihe guards, who were gentlemen, other gentlemen through the whole empire, and many of the nobility, were altogether excluded from this fettlement: That only nine families were mentioned, nine out of
wliich
TRAVELS*
395
which were to be chofen as hereditary conn-fellors, without whole advice and approbation, the Emprefs and all her iuceeflbrs could do nothing of the fmalleft importance. From this he drew a certain confequence, that none would  have the leaft chance for preferment in  the empire, but the cadets of their families, or the moft obfequious to their interefts ^ and confequendy he, Tatifhoff,and all other gentlemen, might, with certainty, bid farewell to the hopes of advancement, let their faithful fervices deferve ever fo much. He faid, that in place of one monarch, lie was fbrry to oblerve a defign of having ten. He put tlie guards in remembrance of Peter the Great, who, without refpecl: to families, provinces, or different nations, indifcraninately advanced every one as he deferved ; Wherefore he begged of the guards to go with him, and bring the Emprefs to her palace widi honour, affuring them, that if fhe voluntarily fliould part with any fliare of her power, int that cafe he would make no objection,. Upon this, the guards, with Tatifhoff, and a very great number of nobility, went and brought the Emprefs to the palace, where Mr Tadf-hoff was, from a lieutenant, declared prlvy-counfellor, which is equal in rank to lieutenant-general.   The great lords were banifh-ed at prefent, but afterwards many of them were punifhed with cruet deaths*
This
This Emprefs ruled with juftice, but great feverity. If flie at any time fliewed favour, it was chiefly to foreigners. She kept all her lifetime her Chriftian neighbours in awe and peace; and carried on a moft fuccefsful war, full of glory, againft the 1 urks. In the year 1739, flie got her niece, the Duke of Mecklenburgh's daughter, Princefs Anne, married to Prince Erneft Ulrich of Wolfen-buttel, and declared their iflue heirs to the throne of Rullia. At the Emprefs Anne's death, flie declared Prince Ivan, or John, the only fon of the aforefaid Prince and Princefs, heir to the empire ; his mother his governefs till of age, and Byron, now Duke of Courland, regent, till the Emperor fliould attain his feventeenth year of age. The news of the Emprefs's death, and a copy of her will, were fent by a young Courland gentleman to Aftrachan, and were received with awful fi-lence. Next day we were all obliged to go to the great church there, to be fwom before the archbiftiop, and fign our oaths, declaring that we were determined to fpend our lives and fortunes in defence of the late Emprefs's will, to maintain the Emperor Ivan on the throne, and the Duke of Courland regent of the empire, till the Emperor fliould attain his feventeenth year of age.
At this time, our Governor relieved a poor prifbner, who had been an enfign in the army when Peter the Great returned from his
conquefts
con quells in Perfia.   Peter gave out orders by the parole, and caufed publifli them by beat of drum, that, in the night time, if any perfon walking the ftreets fliould deny to anfwer the centinePs third fummons, he had orders to fire upon liim.   When the orders were read to the enfign, young Pufkoff, for that was liis name, laid, foolilhly enough, that if the Emperor himfelf denied to anfwer the third fummons, he would not hefitate to fire upon him.   This was foon reported to die Emperor, who ordered him to be immured. He was accordingly put into a hole in the city wall, and the door built up with ftone and lime ; neither was there any other opening into that hole, except a flit in the wall, through which he received his meat.   In this hole he had remained fixteen years, and in that time had loft liis underftanding ; but, as he was a great enthufiaft, the populace believed him alfo to have been infpired; for when he had been fome time confined, he, not knowing a better way to get any thing to fupport nature, except what was allowed by the government, which was only very coarfe rye-flour and a little fait, pretended to predict and tell fortunes, by which means, joined to his great profellion of fancTity, he lived very well. Many thoufands of people ran to fee him taken out, and I went upon an oppofite wall with fome of Prince'Golitzin's children, where I could have a good view, without any hazard.
zard. The foldiers firft called to him to return, thanks to heaven, alluring him, that Emprefs Anne was dead, and that the merciful Governor, Prince Golitzin, had given orders to reftore him to liberty upon tliis occafion : Then they began to break clown the door, and when it was open, he was informed of it, and ordered to come out, but he returned no anfwer ; whereupon a ftrong foldier entered into the hole, and brought him to the open air ; in doing whkh, Pufhkin had very near killed him with the ram-rod of a gun which he was in polfcflion of. He ftared round, and afked many queftions at the byftanders, and in particular, Whether they were not leading him to fome cruel death ? But l>eing at laft convinced that the Prince had rcftorcd him to liis liberty, and had ordered them to cany him to the bagnio to be wafhed clean, and dreffed in new cioaths, which were ready for liim, he, in the moft fervent and fin-cere manner, rendered thanks to heaven, and prayed for the profperity of the merciful Governor's family. He had no fooner feen the metropolitan church, than he threw himfelf on the ground, with his head towards the church, and continued a long time rendering thanks to God for his deliverance ; dien he rofe, crofled himfelf many times, and went to the bagnio, of which he had much need, for he had not the colour of a man, and it was not eafy to come near him, he fmelt
fo
fo difagreeably. After he had been wafhed, and drefled in clean new cloaths, he had great plenty of meat given him, of which he had no great need, for Prince Golitzin ordered him, and many other prifoners, meat from his own table daily. He at laft had li-berty given liim to go where he pleafed, and a room and bed provided for him in fome of the fervants apartments, with orders to take care of him. Every perfon expreffed great fatisfaCtion at the releafe of this man, and welcomed liim by giving him ftrong liquor and fpirits to drink, which foon put an end to his fufferings. Four days after he was taken out, I went into the hole, but though the door continued open, I could not draw my breath in it' but with difficulty. It con lifted of two apartments nearly fquare, the fmalleft: being eight feet by fix.
This fettlement did not continue long, for, in the month of November, we received another ucawfe or royal order, acquainting the inhabitants, that the Duke of Courland was arrefted, and lent into fome place of fafety, becaufe he had intended to ufurp the government by the moft villainous means, &c. Laftly, that the Duchefs of Brunf-Vvick, at the moft humble defire of the mini-ftry, fenate, and all die orders of the fhftper-fonages, and others of note in Peteriburph, had taken the reins of government into her hands, until the Emperor her fon fhould be of age ;
and
and that, as flie was declared regent of the empire by the minifhy and army, it was commanded that (lie fliould be declared regent thro* the kingdom of Aftrachan, and that all ranks of people in the armies and fleet fliould give and fubferibe their oaths to be obedient and faithful to her government, and fliould, to the rifk of their lives and fortunes, by all means in their power, defend and maintain her in diis high ftation,and zealoufly maintain the rights of her royal fon and family.   The Princefs had, by the advice and confent of the miniftry, appointed the Prince her hufband to be gene-raliilimo of all the armies in Rullia, and, at the lame time, had declared Count Muinich to be the firft fubject in Ruftia next the royal family, but that he was no longer to have any command in the army ; and therefore required that the army in Aftrachan fliould take notice of this, as no orders from him ought to be obeyed.
CHAP. LXXII.
A<i Account of the Fall of the Duke of Courland, Regent of Ruffia, as the Author was informed hy creditable People, when he went to St Petersburgh.
"^TO great changes happen in the world, JL^I    but they are related very differently.
The
t R A V.E l S. 4or
The following account of the fall of the Duke of Courland I had from people of very good reputation, and who were in St Peterfburgh at the time.    Tlie Ruffians were not fatisfied that the Duke of Courland, a foreigner, and but lately a private gentleman, fliould be regent of Ruffia, and the royal family have no fhare of the government.    Many, it was faid, had fpokcn of this rather too freely, which was reported to the Duke, who, without lofs of time, caufed feize them, and fent diem to the caflle for examination. Reprefentations in their favours from the Prince and Princefs of Brunf-wick were not only difregarded, but ill taken. Jealoufies, fears, and animofities ran now very high, fo that, I was affured, none of. the royal family durft take an airing, for fear of the regent.    Five hundred men mounted guard for the protection and honour of each of the two courts every day, and the royal family did every thing which was in their power to   fccure   their favour;  whereas the Duke of Courland carried on affairs rather with a high hand, as he thought he was certain of keeping this power, and tliat the only Way to do fo.would be to rule with a rod of iron.    It was faid, and believed by many, that he intended to cut off the royal family, and, by one way or other, to get the Princefs Elifabeth to many his eldcft fon.    Be this as it will, the Prince and Princefs of Brunfwick being in tliis dangerous condition, and get-
3 E ting
ting notice that the regent had caufed torture many of their friends in the caftle, and had parted fentence of death upon fome, who were ordered for execution in a few days, fent for the Field Marfhal Count Muinich. They made him acquainted with eveiy thing, with all the caufes of their fears, and demanded his advice and afliftance. He advifed fhem that they lliould difclofe dieir appre-henfions to none, and promifed that he would foon free them of their fears or lofe his life in the attempt: Which, if he did, fliould never be a caufe of making their fituation in the fmalleft degree worfe; therefore he defired that they would leave the execution of this affair to him- He had gone very privately from his own houfe to the palace, and took the fame precaution in returning home.
Before this time, a mifunderftanding had happened betwixt the Duke of Courland and the field marfhal ; but, as the duke was now declared regent of the Empire, the field marfhal thought it could not derogate from his honour to make the firft advances to a reconciliation. He therefore, without lofs of time, or the fmalleft hefitation, fent a letter to the regent pro felling great defire of being efteemed one of his friends, and that he would be glad to know when it would be convenient for his Highnefs to receive a vifit.
Nothing
TRAVEL S.".*
Nothing could poffibly have happened fo agreeable to the regent. He had not the leaft doubt of the count's iincerity, and wiflied above all tilings to make a man of his great abilities his friend :  He therefore returned for anfwer, that he would be extremely glad to receive a vilit from the count at all times, die fooner the better; and begged that he would favour him with his company that very day at dinner; becaufe he had fome affairs of the greateft coniequence to lay before him.
At dinner, (for fuch an anfwer the count expected, and confequendy obeyed the fummons immediately) the count appeared extremely glad, and exprefled much fatisfaction at the happy reconciliation,   The regent, no doubt thought himfejf a happy man, in having as he imagined, a perfon of the count's abilities, his declared and open friend. The higheft marks of refpect and friendfliip were profefled, with the greateft fliew of fin-eerity, on both fides, and they fpent the afternoon together, taking a chearful glafs, till late in the afternoon, when they parted with mutual fatisfaclion : The one diat he had, as he thought, gained one of the greateft men in the Empire to be his tmfty friend ; the o-ther, that he had lulled the regent into a notion of the greateft fecurity.   The regent begged that the count would make his vifits very frequent, wliich the other affured him
fliould
fliould be complied with, as long as they fliould be acceptable. The regent declared nothing could ever be more agreeable to him, but little did he dream of what very foon followed.
Soon after midnight, when moft people are generally afleep, except fuch as are in pain or  mifery,   card-players, drunkards, and villains of all kinds, the -count in company of two or three trufty brave men went to the regent's palace.   As he was lieutenant-colonel of the regiment of guards upon duty, and very well known to all the foldiers, he palfed on to the guard-houle, where he demanded to fpeak with the major, who was principal commander on duty, and who, it was thought, was well acquainted with the count's defign, and fully refolved heartily to fecond him.   They with a few more of the guards, whom the major could well truft, with great caution approached the bed-chamber,   and foon forced open the cloor.   It was faid that the duke with his fword for a long time defended himfelf bravely, and the dutchefs with a fabre wounds ing feverals, till fome rude foldiers knocked heron the head, and even after that with difficulty fecured her at laft ! Scarcely it ever happens otherways than that lomething veiy prodigious is related at the deaths or difgraces of great men, who have in fome ftiape been eminent in the world ; and iuch (lories are
greedily
T R A V E L S.
greedily fwallowed down, and by the multitude, gain credit fboner than more probable hiflory. That the Duke of Courland, who it was well enough known did not want good judgment, fhould upon fuch an occafion expofe himfelf, lady, and family to immediate certain death, when he faw himfelf fur-rounded by fo many brave men, may gain credit with fome children, but fcarcely with any other ; that the dutchefs might have fallen into fome outrageous fit I fhall not dif pute, but her fo readily getdng a fabre, where none were kept, and there performing military feats, canying down all before her, till, only by accident, Ihe was knocked on the head by a rude foldier : Whilfl her brother-in-law, Guftavus Biron, bred a foldier, and naturally afraid of nothing., was caught making his efcape through the garden, is too romantic for me to believe. In fhort, that they were all made prifoners and fent to Sluf-felburgh, thence to Siberia, is very certain.
This event was indeed as fudden as un-forefeen by the Duke of Courland: But it was moft fortunate for the Royal family, and for many (fome making their numbers exceed a hundred, others confining them to forty) gentlemen, related to the principal families in Ruffia, at that time confined in the caftle, for it was afferted, and probably very truly, that many were to have been brought to the torture, and fbqie to have fuffered death the
day
day following : So diat it was no wonder to hear that the Ruifians rejoiced much at the downfal of the Duke of Courland. He was faid to be a man of very good parts, but rather cruel; it was thought it was purely by his counlel that the late Emprefs fhew-ed fo great diiHain and cruelty to the moft ancient and noble families in Ruftia : And I cannot help thinking there are many reafons in the courie of the late reign to juftify the Ruffians, and others for believing this. Whoever were we]l with the Duke, were alfo ca-refled by the Emprefs; but it was much more dangerous for any perfon to affront one of the Duke's fervants than any of the Empreis's. The Duke certainly ruled the cabinet, and by what happened in the eoui'fe of this reign, it may be truly laid that affairs for the good and glory of the Empire were carried on at a high rate, but then his ambition and cruelty rendered him odious to die Ruffians: and, though no wife man would fpeak his opinion, every one, even foreigners undoubtedly condemned fuch bad conduct, which made his fall regreted by none, but his immediate dependents. Was it not die higheft ambition which made him not only advile the late Emprefs to appoint him regent ; but, contrary to all views of good policy, to maintain himfelf, which he faw he could not effect but by fwimming thro' feas of blood, in the regency ? Was it good
policy
policy to fet himfelf upon a level, and even threaten the Royal Family, and at the fame time, by all the ways and means which tyranny can effecl, alienate the good difpohV-tions, and opinions of the moft ignorant of all the Ruffians, by the unparalleled cruel tortures daily inflicted upon, poftibly the moft illuftrious and honourable, as well as innocent and induftrious people in the Empire? It fig-nifies very little what any defpotic court gives out againft a prifoner, where perfons are examined, tried, condemned, and fuffer, not in the eyes of the world, but, moft fecredy, by their enemies, who lay what ever crimes diey may think fit to their charge ; or if they fuffer publicly, it is very well known that they are rendered incapable of fpeaking by gags driven into their mouths.    The Duke of Courland was confcious to himfelf that he was not beloved by the Ruiiians, and therefore probably wiftied for the regency, that he might have it in his power abfolutely to crufh all liis enemies.   But it feems he did not think that torturing and putting to cruel death fo many men of different families, who only wiftied well to, and fpoke well of the Royal Family, would raife him a greater number of enemies, and that they, added to the weight of the Royal Family, might one day prove too ftrong for a ftranger and an alien ! But if he had generoufly, and of himfelf given up his regency to the Grand Duchefs, whofe
natural
natural right it was, then he might have lived in great fplendor and tranquillity in his dukedom of Courland, protected by the whole power of Ruifia : And probably his illuftrious family would have been in fafety at this day.
CHAP. LXXII.
A Continuation of what happened in the Tear 1740, at St Petersburgh and Aftrachan.
ISHALL clofe tliis year with an account of what happened at St Peterfburgh and Aftrachan, in relation to the Turkith and Peril-an ambaffadors. The Turks difpatched from Conftantinople a grand embaffy, but being veiy late in the year, it was obliged to halt on the Turfkifh borders till the year 1741 of wliich I fhall fay no more till I take notice of the affairs which then happened.
I obferved that two anibafladors had been fent by Kuli Khan this year with the elephants, one of whom died in Kizlaar. Kuli Khan however was determined to have two, therefore he difpatched another, faid to be his confin-gernian ; who arrived in Aftrachan with a train of five hundred men, the latter end of November. He gave out that he was to ftay but a very few days and then proceed with all expedition for St Peterfburgh,
and
and therefore required  that the governor would hold a ftrong efcort of horfemen ready to protect him and his retinue from the Kalmucks, and that the governor would grant proper paflports for his couriers to be fent to the former ambaffador, who was obliged, by the feverity of the winter, to ftop at Tam-boff, .a large city on the eaft fide of the province of Veronits : The governor anfwered all thefe requefts without the fmalleft lofs of time, and being very willing to get rid of fuch a troublefome gueft at Aftrachan, he let him know that it would be almoft impof-fible for liim and his retinue to lodge in that city during the winter, becaufe magazines of provifions were laid up only for the ufe of the army and garrifon, and as the Kalmucks were now on the borders of Circaffia, they could not fupply him fufficiently with live cattle.   The governor would not permit liim to lodge hi the city, being afraid, as they were very carelefs, that they might fet the city in flames, and poftibly they might do this defignedly ; as the governor was well allured by the Refident Arapoff in Perfia^ that the Shach was marching his great army round the fouth end of the Cafpian Sea, through the provinces of Aftrabat, Mefande-ran, Baclria, Cafbin and Ardebil, and that the vanguard was on the borders of die great Mogan defart, or Media, and that though the Shach gave out that he defigned to pu-
3 F nUh
nidi his rebellious fubjeeffs the Lefgec Tartars, who inhabit the mountains of Cauca-fus, (who by the bye-never acknowledge fubjection to the Empire of Perfia) yet it was greatly to be f ufpecled that his principal defign was upon Circallia, and the kingdom of Aftrachan. This, I fay, forced the governor to ufe all his fkill to fend him into Ruftia, where he could neither be fuch an effectual fpy, nor influence the Tartar inhabitants of Aftrachan, who were all Mahometans. The governor therefore gave liim a lodging in a large fuburb oppofite to the admiralty, which was ftrongly fortified with a number of cannon ready to be difcharged a-mongft them in cafe of any danger. Not contented with this, he ordered three hundred grenadiers to keep watch about him and bis retinue night and day, under the command of Lieutenant-colonel Eglcbright, an able, refolute officer, a Swede, who was made prifoner at the battle of Poltava. The ambaffaclor ftormed at this treatment, threat-ning to make his complaint to the Shach. The governor did not regard tliis much, but returned polite anfwers, telling him that the colonel had been formerly well acquainted with the Perfians, and their cuftoms; and that it was to do him honour that he had appointed a man of his rank to attend his Excellency, and provide every thing neceflary for him; diat the foldiers were cliiefly defign-
ed
TRAVEL S. 4ir
ed to do him honour, and to take care that no fire, theft, or any other unforefeen mif-chief might happen, for wliich he the governor might be blamed by his own court.
Thefe anfwers amuled him, and were not difagreeable to his pride.  He had not been in Aftrachan eight days till he was taken ill of an ague ; he fent to the governor, defir-ing that one of the beft phyficians or furgeons in the city might be appointed to attend liim. The governor acquainted me with tliis, and defired I would attend him ; but at my eanieft defire, Mr Malloch, who had been formerly employed by the Perfians, and knew much more about their ways than I could do, was appointed. Mr Malloch was a very fenfible man, but had a eonfiderable fhare of vanity, and was follicitous to become rich ; He was fb far from taking this in ill part that he returned me thanks for doing him this honour.    He went, and confidering that violent medicines, fuch as emeticks might occafion fuch a vain ignorant man as the ambaffador was, to reject all medicines, and poflibly complain of him, ordered fome in* fiifion of the bark.   When this was lent.to the ambaftiidor,   he fignified   to Colonel Eglebright that he would take none of it till Mr Malloch was fent for and prefent. At Mr Malloch/s arrival, he went to the ambaffador with the colonel ; who required Malloch to take the firft dole : This furprif ed
him,
412      VOYAGES "and
him, who made anfwer diat he was in good health, nor had need of any medicine, that he never took any medicines except when he was lick, and that if liis Excellency did not chufe to take the medicines, there was no need of his attendance, and was going a-way, when he ordered to (lop him, and at fame time, ordered two of his men who had long poles in their hands to ftrike him, which they were preparing to do, when the colonel full of rage, his eyes fialhing lire, laid his hand on his fword, and fwore that whoever ftruck Mr Malloch, (hould inftantly lofe his head. He did not fcruple even to upbraid the ambafTador, and faid that he wondered much that fuch a great Prince as the Shach was, fent as his ambalfador a man fo impolite, and fo very unmannerly as to to offer to ftrike any officer belonging to the Empire of Ruftia, telling him at the fame time that the greateft lords in Ruftia durfl not prefume to ufe men of his rank in that fcandalous way. Eglebright was probably as brave a man as ever eyes beheld, and was like another Hercules : His very looks dif-concerted the ambaflador fo much that he begged the colonel would take no further notice of it, and faid that he hoped Mr Malloch and he would be good friends, adding that it was a cuftom in Perfia, that the phyfician fhould take the firft dofe of any medicine he might prefcribe for people of
great
great rank; to which the colonel anfwered, that no regular bred man in Europe would ever fubmit to fuch indignity ; and from this he was at no lofs to know that Perfia was not fupplied with anyperfons regularly educated. Thus this affair ended, much to the fatis-faction of the Governor, who never fpoke of it to the ambaffador, and Mr Malloch very foon cured liim, but got only about the va-? lue of three pounds flerling for his trouble.
New year's day came on before we could get free of this beaft.   There is a cuftom in Ruftia, that the drummers and muiicians belonging to the army and fleet go about in a body, to pay their refpects to the great men on new year's day.   The Governor ordered them to go to the ambaflador's houfe, and Colonel Eglebright to be there.   I believe there were three hundred hi all, or a few more.   When the drums began, it was eafily obferved, that the ambaflador's countenance changed, and he feemed to be in very great confufion, for he knew nothing of it before they began, and, feemingly afraid, afked the colonel the meaning of it? who, fmiling, told him it was their new-year's-day, and they meant only to do his Excellency honour ; at which he turned calm, and, when the mufick began to play, rofe from his fbpha, and ex-prelfed great fatisfaclion; but, though he kept the men long, he gave them only a trifle, which the colonel caufed them to return ;
then
then lie talked of the number of the army a. bout Aftrachan, and their late fuccefs againft the Turks ? to wliich the colonel made pertinent anfVers, but magnified every diing greatly. On die twelfth day, the chriftening of the waters was performed after the manner in Ruftia, at which many Perfians mounted on horfeback attended upon a high ground immediately under a great baftion of the caftle, upon which were mounted many very great guns. When the circular fire from the fmall arms began, the Perfian horle were put in fome conftilion ; but when the great cannon were fired, they were diffracted, and yet, which is furpriiing, although diere were at leaft forty Perfians mounted, hot one of them fell from their horfes. From this we could learn, that thefe horfes were not accu-ftomcd to great guns, but that the Perfians were excellent horfemcn. This ambaftador and his retinue were watched fo clofely, that they could make but few difcoveries here. The Tartars, and others of the Mahometan religion, were given to know, that it would be taken very ill if they went to him, unlefs fome Ruffian fwoni interpreter was prefent, and that it would be efteemed a great crime to invite any of them to their houfes. At laft, he „ refolved to march from Aftrachan, and appointed a day for every thing to be got ready ; but when die day came he would have again fhifted: However the colonel let
liim
him know, tliat, as he had done fo frequently before, if he did not go, the Governor was determined to fend off a courier to the Ruilian refident, who would get orders to repre-fent the ambaflador's unreafonable behaviour fince his arrival in Rullia; and finally, that neither carriages nor paffage would be granted till the courier returned with an anfwer from the Shach. Upon this reprefentation, he prefently refolved to march; and orders were given to the lieutenant-colonel to pafs all the towns and cities in Aftrachan, without the ambaflador's being able to view them, and thus to hurry him through the kingdom of Aftrachan. Indeed all forts of men were glad at the departure of this troublefome man^ efpecially as our markets were beginning to be very coftly to the poorer houfe-keepers.
At this time we had no fewer than four Perlian ambaffadors at once in Ruftia, viz. one on his return in Ruffia, the other on his way to St Peterfburgh with the elephants, and the troublefome man I have faid fb much a-bont. There was a fourth called Ifmael Bey, who had lived in Aftrachan eighteen or twenty years : He made peace with Shach Talimas and Peter the Great, granting to Peter, Gi-land, and all the provinces upon the weft fide of the Cafpian fea betwixt it and die borders of Rullia ; but was afraid ever to return into Perfia, and therefore lived at the Ruftian ex-pence, and kept a court like a great prince in
Aftrachan.
Aftrachan. When any ambafTador from Per* fla, in his way to Ruffia, halted at Aftrachan, a captain's command confifting of a hundred and twenty men kept guard upon Ifmael Bey, for two reafons : The firft was, to let the Perfians fee what honour was paid him ; and the other was, to prevent the Perfians from aflaflinating tliis old mam At fuch times, no Perfian was admitted into Ifmael Bey's prefence, unlefs he gave orders to the captain. Some have been unlucky in attempting to pafs the guard, without previoufly demanding leave from Ifmael Bey ; for no foldiers are more pointed in their duty than the Ruffians ; and if the leaft: force is ufed, the foldier, widiout any hcfitation, will knock liim down with the butt of liis mufquet, or run him through with his bayonet.
CHAP. LXXIV. What happened in the Tear i741.
DURING the hard froft, we were ignorant of every thing pafting in Perfia ; but, as the froft feldom continues much longer than two months, that time foon elapfed, and then we were informed, that Kuli Khan had paffed the great Mogan defart, through die middle of which die rivers Arras and Cur run, and join their ftreams about fixty verfts
weft:
weft from the fea : Tliat he had made many unf uccefsful attempts againft thefe brave high-landers, and had loft many thoufands of his beft troops, an account of which I fhall give when I treat of my travels through that country.
In the month of April, the heat began to grow very uneafy, and ufhered in with it petechial fevers, which raged through the whole city with great fury.   The Governor's children and fervants were firft feized, and after that liis lady.   By the mercy of God they all recovered, though the Princefs was in the greateft danger, chiefly owing to her being-delirious, and not eafily managed by her fervants, nor indeed by me, as I could not take the liberty to ufe all freedom with a lady of her diftinguiftied family and rank in the world.   At the beginning of this difeafe, I advifed the good old Prince not to enter the rooms where the fick children lay, nor eat much animal food, nor fleep with any perfon with him, but to drink with acids, and every morning and evening to take a little exercife by walking upon the walls of the caftle ; but above all, to take care that the'non-naturals be kept perfectly regular.   He followed my advice, and efcaped. His lady had a dangerous relapfe, from which fhe was recovered by a very great diaphorefis.   Three days before tliis happened, fhe was quite delirious, when I expreifed my very^ great concern for her fafe-^ 3 G ty,
ty, at which the Prince was very melancholy; hut there was a neceflity for my difcovering iliat I apprehended clanger, becaufe it was fo ordered by an imperial decree, that all the ceremonies, according to the Greek church, might be duly performed : But had not that been the cafe, I was fo much eaft down from die tear of her danger, that any, who knew me, might have eaiily known the caule ; for my own mother never could have been more careful of me than flie was. She had not been long fweating, when flie was overtaken -with a calm pleafant fleep. I then attended d fl .v, and, alter flie had flept fourteen hours, flic lifired up her eyes, and fpoke to me quite feniibly. I then left her with her waidng-woman, and, with joy, told the Prince of my good hopes, who could not be kept from feeing her ; but he ftaid no time, as I aflured him, that, unlefs {lie had more fleep, flic would probably fufter a fecond relapfe. This being the laft time that any of that illuftrious family were fick during my ftay in Aftrachan, I (hall trouble the reader no further a-bout their difeafes, but proceed.
The Princefs of the Kalmucks arrived upon the banks of the Volga fooner than was expected, and palfed the river with her children and the bulk of the warlike Kalmucks, before the Ruffians and Colfacks could arrive on the banks of the Volga, where (lie remained during die fummer.   It was believed, that
tliis
this Princefs was advifed to take this (lep, to prevent being forced to yield up the princi-, pality to the above-mentioned Don duck Da-fhee, who, flie was informed, was on his journey for that purpofe, and had let out from Cazan, where I (hall juft now leaver him   Had  this Princefs remained on the well fide of the Volga, fhe was afraid that, the weftern banks of the Volga, the Don Cof-facks upon the river Don, and the Circaflians and Grebenfke Coflacks on the fouth, might altogether either have forced her to quit all titles to her principality, or might have gained over many of the Kalmuck chiefs either through deceitful promifes or fear ; or laflly, that all thefe powers combined at once a-gainll her, might have cramped her principality very much, and at laft, probably, force her to leek protection from the Turks, which fhe had already experienced in her hufbancPs lifetime to be very uncomfortable ; and therefore it was faid, that fhe had ftolen a march upon the Ruilian troops, and very early palfed the Volga; that, in cafe die empire fhould ufe violent means, flie might at leaft have the chance of a vaft extended defart, where flie, with her faithful Kalmucks, might take refuge, and have a probability of joining with the great nation, called Black Kalmucks, whole religion, manners, and cuftoms, are the fame with her's and the Chinefe. Whatever her reafons were, I cannot pofitively all
fertj
fert, but that fhe pafled the Volga, with thirty or forty thoufand men, is certain.
The next affair that happened worth talking notice of, is the arrival of the Perlian ambaffador from St Peterfburgh, who was obliged to winter in Rullia in his way to Perfia.
The governor having experienced the danger of letting thefe Perfians lodge near the city, obliged this ambaffador to flay in an old palace, which Peter the Great had btiilt for himfelf, diflant about one mile from Aflrachan, on a branch of the river Volga. He alfo commanded three hundred foldiers to encamp about the palace, under pretence of doing honour to, and protecting the embaffy; but truly to fpy their actions and take particular notice of the inhabitants of Aflrachan who might pay him vifits, which was forbidden : For by this time the Shach had marched to the north of Derbent, and we had very great reafon to fear, that, whatever excufes he made, or pretences to punifh his rebellious Lefgees, his real defign was to fall upon Aflrachan. But the Governor had more certain reafons to be afraid of this, than the inhabitants of Aflrachan were acquainted with, of which he gave me the following account, when I went with him into Perfia.
As the Governor had been warned by many trufly men from Buchara and Chiva, he was as much on his guard as was poffible. Ke alfo not only, under divers pretences,
fent
fent fpies into Perfia, but alfo into Buchara and Chiva.   He, from all thefe inftruments, learned certainly, tliat the Shach had fcarcely reached Mezenderan, when he was informed, that the inhabitants of Chiva had unexpectedly fallen upon the Perfian troops he had left to keep them under his government, and had Cut them all to pieces, except a very few flragglers, who had brought thefe news ; whereupon the Chivines loft no time in dispatching ambafladors to St Peterfburgh to declare this happy event for them, to warn the Ruiiians to put no truft in the perfidious Perfian promifes ; and laflly, to feek the protection of the empire againft Kuli Khan. As thefe ambaffadors were obliged to pais thro* Aftrachan, they difcovered all to the Governor, who carefled them much, and fent them carefully and expeditioufly forward to St Peterfburgh.   At the fame time, the friendfhip he cultivated with the Chivines, was only perfonal, never engaging for the honour of the empire.   Add to this, that many of the Georgians and Lefgee Tartars were often coming to Aflrachan, giving an account of what the Shach had done, and the places of his encampment; all agreeing that he certainly defign ed, if nothing flopped him, to fall upon the borders of Rullia, notwithflanding the great profeflions of amity and refpect he pretended to have for the Ruilian empire.
About
About this time Perfian coin, both gold and filver, was brought to the Tartar markets, and alio into the city in great plenty. The governor having been intbrmed of this, caufed feize the Kalmucks, who brought it in ; and upon examination they declared, that they had that money from Perfian and Tartar fpies, a number of whom were fent a-inongft them, (and fome were alfo in Aftrachan.
With fuch privacy and precaution were thefe fpies picked up, and fent to Oranburgh, and other places of fecurity, that I, who lived in the governor's houfe, and daily eat at his table, never learned any thing of it, till five years after this the Prince informed me, when we were marching into Perfia ; and the me-thod he took to keep every tiling fccret was thus.
He caufed bring the prifoners, found in and about the city, into the citadel, and lodge them in a ftrong lecure place, into which he went, attended only by his counsellors and fecretaries, who were fworn not to divulge what paffed there, or fpeak about thefe prifoners to any perfon. After due examination, and when there was a number of them together, they were chained and fent with their proper guard, out of the city in the night time to Oranburgh. He ordered alfo a number of foldiers, armed with piflols and broad fwords hid under their garments,
and
and cloathed like Ruffian peafants, to go, as if to traffic, amongft the Kalmueks, and pick up all fufpicious perfons, but ftrictly ordered them to obferve the utmoft fecrecy. In this manna* did this wife governor pick up the greateft number of thofe fpies, that the Shach was quite at a lofs how to proceed.
He had threatened the Turks, it is true, and at this time it was rumoured that he Irad actually laid fiege to Kars, and other cities belonging to the Turks : But we were very well allured of the contrary : For he was encamped with his army about thirty miles north from Derbent, fighting with Ufmei a Lefgee prince, and had built a large caftle under the hills, which I have feen, to protect his army from the inroads of thefe brave highlanders; a diftinct account of which I fhall give when treating of thefe countries.
In Ihort, the couriers difpatched by land, by the way of Kizlaar, from the Perfian ara-bafladors to their Shach, were way-laid, feized and lent to Siberia, as were alfo the couriers difpatched from him to them, whole writings fell into the hands of the Governor, which effectually difcovered that he intended to fall upon the kingdom of Aftrachan.
At laft it was found out, that the Per- -fian couriers were loft, whereon a complaint was made to the court of St Peterfburgh, and alfo to the government of Aftrachan. The Governor iffued out his fham orders
ders to fcour the defarts, to take better care in time coming, and to examine all fufpeeled perfons,and many innocent people at this time were feized, but fulfered no manner of hurt, only a fhort confinement, but very good treatment otherways, purely with a defign to amufe, and fatisfy the Perfians.
Left the unwary,foldiers employed in thefe fecret affairs, fhould acquaint their companions of what they had been doing, exprefs informations were lent to the governors, to whofe care they were fent, to retain them diere, and fend an equal number of their foldiers to Aftrachan. By tliis means thefe fecret tranfa&ions never were known to the inhabitants of Aftrachan : Nor could I ever have come to the knowledge of them if I had not been informed by the Prince himfelf five years thereafter, as I faid above.
I thought it interefting to know what became of thefe prifoners who were fent to O-ranburgh and other parts, and begged thatthe Prince would inform me whether they were not put to death: He afTured me that they were only kept as prifoners at large, that is to fay, they had liberty to go about and follow any bufinefs they could, hue were not permitted to go out of the confines prefcribed to them ; and that all of them expreffed very great faiisfaction at their fortune, in being refcued from fo much trouble and danger as they were daily expofeel to by their tyrant,
and
and diat many of them had profefled the Chriftian religion, were married, and enjoyed all the immunities which natural-born Ruf. iians enjoy.
But to return to the ambaffador, who was getting ready to fet out on liis return from Aftrachan to Perfia : About the end of May, he was informed that two fhips were ready to tranfport him and his retinue to Perfia ; and the Governor defired that he would make all hafte to depart, as much time had already been loft, and that the veflels would fail in a few days, whether he went or not ; but advertifed him, that if he did not accept of that good opportunity of a free paffage, he might go in what manner he plcafed on liis own charges; and that the court of Rullia had fent orders to withdraw his daily allowance of provifion, if he ftaid longer than the time prefcribed. Accordingly the ambaffador in earneft made all hafte, and bought up many things which were, by the Ruffians, judged contraband, and alfo had imprudently ftolen two Ruffian boys from poor people.    The parents having acquainted the Governor of their reafbns for fufpecfmg that the Perfians had ftolen their children, he fent a friendly meflage to the am-baflador, letting him know, that he could permit no contraband merchandife to be fliipped off for Perfia, and deiiring him inftantly to return fuch goods to the merchants, and receive back his money.   He alfo acquainted
3 H him,
him, that two boys were loft, and the parents had but too good reafon to fulpecT that fome of his train had ftolen them; therefore defired that they might be reftored without further trouble to their parents.   Tliis civil remon-frrance was neither kindly taken, nor in any part complied with ; wherefore the ambaffador received a fecond menage, acquainting him, that the Governor intended to pay him a viik that afternoon, and explain matters to him.   The Governor was told, that the am-baflador raged at his menage in a veiy threatening, ill-bred manner ; wherefore lie caufed a few troops to march, and remain near the old palace, and, with a retinue of gentlemen, rowed down the river in liis barge.  At their firft meeting, the Perfian was very ill-bred and high, but a chair being placed for the Governor, after his fuiy was a little abated, he very calmly told him, tliat he was fiirpri-fed that any perfon, who reprefented his fo-vereign, could put himfelf in fuch puerile paftion about what could not be helped ; that he might eaiily think no government would have their laws trampled upon and defpifed by any.    He faid, for I was prefent and heard the whole difcourfe, that no ambafiador ever pretended to privileges which were repugnant to the well-being or laws of the empire to which he was fent; but that, when he had taken his laft audience of leave to return to his native country from the late Emprefs, his
embafly
embafty ended ; nor could any perfon in dieir fenfes imagine, that he then had properly the privileges of ambaftadors, though it was true tliat the Ruffians, fo long as they behaved well, paid great refpect to thole who had been in that high nation; yet his embafty being ended,he was no ambaffador.   But he obferved, with a determined countenance, diat all thefe his tranfacfions, lince he came to Aftrachan, would be honeftly reported to the Shach ; and laftly, that he was refolved, that no provifions, nor other marks of refpeel or beneficence fliould be granted to liim and his retinue, till the children were reftored, and that he had already given orders to the commanders of the fliips, to receive no forbidden merchandife ; and having faid this, he took liis leave.   He had fcarcely gone to the river fide, when the boys were reftored, and tliis troublefome Perfian was at laft obliged to give up all his merchandife. NThe Governor was pointed in having the infamous actions of this man fo effectually represented to the Shach, that we were well afliired he was ftrangled foon after liis arrival in Perfia.
CHAP.
CHAP. LXXV.
Concerning the Author's Journey to St Petersburgh, wlxit happened remarkable on ihe road, at St Petersburgh, and till his return.
IHad now remained eighteen months in A-ftrachan, without having received my falary, or any other appointment. Before I left St Peterfburgh, I had contracted a great kindnefs for Mifs Hadderling, whole father was fuperintendant over all the floop-builders, and captain in the Ruffian fervice; her mother was daughter to Mr Edwards, captain of one of the Ruffian men of war, both Englifh. Some overtures about our marriage having been a-greed to, I delired greatly to go to St Petersburgh, and, for excufe, reprefented effectually my not having been properly appointed to any command, nor having received my fa-kry to fubfifl upon. My greateft difficulty was to get perm if lion from the Governor ; but, after many fruitlefs attempts, I at laft fucceeded, by promifing to return to him, e-ven if I fliould take my difcharge from the fervice; to do which, I thought my right could pot be oppofed, though in this I was mifta* ken, as I afterwards experienced.
Before I enter upon my journey, I muft beg to be indulged in relating what happened
ed to my wife when flie was an infant. Her parents had made a fmall fortune, and, tired of the Ruifian fervice, agreed to return to England, to live in Woolwich among their relations : In order to effect this with the greater fafety, they agreed that Mrs Hadderling fhould go with her infant and all their valuable effects to an uncle flie had, named Edwards, an eminent filk-weaver, who lived in London.    She accordingly failed from Cronftadt in a Britifh fhip, in the year 1722, with great prosperity and favourable winds,till they were oppofite Yarmouth, when the fhip began to fill with water ; though the weather was not very ftormy, nor could the pumps relieve them: In tliis diftrefs, they took to the long-boat, into which they  hurried Mrs Hadderling, and a humane failor took care of the infant; but the,fhip funk quickly, which obliged the failor to tofs the child into the long-boat, which was preferved by falling upon fomething foft, By this misfortune Mrs Hadderling loft all her effects ; and, it was faid, that the captain had villainoufly funk the fhip. Be tliis as it will, Mrs Hadderling next day arrived in London, and waited upon her uncle, who kept them that winter ; and, as he had no children, would gladly have kept his niece, promifing to give her, at his death, all the fortune he might be worth : But her father would not fubmit to this, and her good uncle, fhe is afraid, is dead, as fhe has heard
nothing
43<>      VQYAGpS and
nothing of him fmce (he has been marri-ed.
Having, as was ,faid, obtained leave, and received the neceflary paflport, I let out in a poft-boat, accompanied, by the goodncis of our Governor, with a grenadier, who formerly had been frequently fent courier to St Peterfburgh, and knew the road very well.   We proceeded about two hundred miles from Aflrachan, by rowing and failing, without meeting with any thing uncommon: At tliis diflance it blew a ftrong gale from the north, fo that, having hodi the current of the river and an exceeding bold wind to fight againft, and the men being unable to do more, we drew the boat into a fmall creek in an ifland, refolving to wait till the wind was abated.   The men being veiy much fatigued, and wet with the fplafhing of the water, for we had no rain, went afliore, and laid themfelves down to fleep, wliilft I watched, for my thoughts had baniflied fleep from me.   In tliis creek we had not been long, till I fpied a boat coming down the river with reefed fail.   I wakened the men, who faid that it was a poft-boat,and that their orders were, never to pafs one another, when there was a poflibility of changing ; wherefore they made a fignal, which effectually brought the other boat to. They were convoying a Kalmuck to the Governor of Aftrachan.   This man feemed to be in di-flrefs, was very well dreffed,had only a battle-ax
TRAVEL $ m*
ax, but neither bow, arrows, nor fcymitar* Lhiderftanding he could fpeak Ruffian language, I enquired if there were any news in the country, and from whence he came ? Upon this he burft out in a flood of tears, but, having compofed himfelf, gave me the following account by one of the boatmen who underflood him : I am flying for my life to the protection of the Governor of Aflrachan. This day has been a fatal day to my Prince, and I am afraid, that out of five thoufand brave Kalmucks, I am the only one relerved to lament the lofs of the much beloved, brave Prince of the Kalmucks, who, upon the moft- explicit aflurances given him by the Court of Ruffia, that the Princefs, wife of the late Donduk Ambo, would diveft herfelf and her children of any pretenfions they might have to reign o-ver the Kalmucks, in his favour, marched from Ca2an, where he had lived fome years in a princely manner, to the place where the widow Princefs kept her court, (not twenty miles diflant from where we then were, on the eafl: fide cf the Volga.)   He, after a week's march, arrived within three or four verfts of the Princefs, accompanied with five thoufand brave men, to her fore-poft or out-guards, dreading no harm ; there he was advifed to flop by them, becaufe, they faid, they had orders to permit no armed men to advance nearer the camp where flie was, and begged that he would not rafhly expofe his
men
men or them to unneceflary danger ; but at die lame time told liim, diat diey would receive any melTagc from him to the Princefs, deliver the fame, and bring an anfwer, or that they would permit any one of liis followers, unarmed, to carry a menage to the Princels, and receive what anfwer flie might be difpo-fed to grant.
Tliis being agreed to, the Prince withdrew his followers to a fmall diftance, and fent one, in whom he could confide to the Princefs, with inftru£tions to inform her Highnefs of die great refpecl: he entertained for her and her children ; that he hoped he never fliould have reafon to change his lentiments ; and let her know, that he was arrived there with a few faithful friends, by the aflurances the Court of Rullia had given liim, that her High-nels would have no objections that he fliould take on him, which he faid was his right,the government of the Kalmucks ; that her Hignels's. out-guards would not permit him to advance nearer till her pleafure was known, and he Iiad withdrawn to a fmall diftance, where he intended to wait her friendly anfwer.
The onl^ anfwer fhe was pleafed to return, was, that it was now late, but that next morning flie would foon adjuft all their affairs. He faid the Prince did not relifli fuch an anfwer, but was determined to wait the event.
Accordingly next morning, with the riling ©f the fun, the Princels appeared, mounted
on
on horfeback, with about thirty thoufand armed men at her back, and, without the fmalleft ceremony, gave orders for an attack, which, he believed, bloody on both fides : At this he cried like a child, faying, that without doubt his Prince was killed, and that he had no reafon to believe that any were faved but himfelf, who miraculoufly fled, he thought, unperceived in the thick duft, to the Ruilian refident, who was encamped with about three hundred foldiers on a rifing ground, at no great diftance from the field of battle.
The refident was a captain : Whether it would have been thought prudent in him to interfere or not, I fhall not take on me to determine. He never, fb far as I know, was queftioned for looking on as an impotent fpectator : But fure he might have ufed all his arguments to diffuade the Princefs from fpilling fo much innocent blood, which I never heard he had attempted.
The refident however got this man conveyed privately to the river fide, where he had boats for the ufe of liis men; from thence he difpatched him poft with a pacquet, which lie fhowed me, for the Governor. I requcftcd him to eat a little of what I had, but he laid he could not; however, I got him perfuaded to take a glafs of wine and a bit of bread, and thus we parted. 1 imagined that I was long enough in company, and in the neighbourhood of thefe barbarians :  As my
3 I men
434     VOYAGES.and
men were not fatigued, after giving each of them a glafs of fpirits, I perfuadv d them to proceed, which they did with difficulty and danger. We gained their poflhoufe in the evening, and palTed the Kalmuek's camp in the night-time, and met with nothing re* markable till we arrived at Tzaritzin.
At this city I hoped to get a travelling waggon, but no fuch vehicle was to be put-chafed.   I was obliged to let out on a cart with four wheels, for which I paid a ruble and a little fpirits.   We were lent with difpatches to the cabinet, and therefore were obliged to make all expedition.    It is true, that I had two paffports, one for myfelf, and the other for the grenadier, in cafe I might happen to fall lick, or, by any un-forefeen caufe, be hindered from profecu-ting my journey with fuch expedition as was required.    In inch  a conjuncture, I would have been obliged to fend off the grenadier with the difpatches, which I had no inclination to do ; becaufe the foldier was of great ufe in procuring horfes, and whatever I wanted.    From Aflrachan I arrived in Tzaritzin in fix days by water, and from Tzaritzin I arrived in Mofcow in nine days in my cart, without meeting with any other accident than burning four axletrees, and breaking twelve cart-wheels.   Thus I was carried by water againll the flream, and frequently a^uiiUt the wind, five hundred and
twelve
twelve verfts in fix days, and from Tzaritzin to Moicow one thoufand and fifty one verfts in nine days. I, being extremely fatigued, and all over bruifed with the cart, lent my foldier to buy a waggon with proper harnefles ; and, thus equipped, fet out and arrived in St Petersburgh in little more than three days, though I met with fome hindrance on the road. I fhall not mention the more remarkable towns I palled by and through at this time; becaufe I wTas too much fatigued, and in too great hafte to make any obfervations ; I fhall refer that til} my return with my wife, and fhall only take notice of two or three accidents, though trifling, which I met with betwixt Tzaritzin and St Peterfburgh.
At Tzaritzin I bought up as much provifion as I thought would be neeedful for the foldier and me, till we fliould arrive at Chopra caftle, where we might have been fupplied with more. We marched, without any uncommon accident happening, till we arrived at a poft-houfe within a mile of Mi-chaelofka. (N. B. Thofe who go by poll feldom touch at any town till they arrive at Tamboff. Pofthoufes are built in the defart in order that the courier may have the fliort-eft way) where, by accident, I happened to prefent to the writer the foldier's paffport in place of my own: At this the writer made fome fcruple, laying it was very uncommon
to
to have two paflports : But as we were difpatched to the Senate he durft not offer to flop us ; becaufe it is no lefs than death to flop fuch couriers. He however drove the cart to Chopra, but arriving there late, the writer belonging to that place had gone to bed in the town ; of which I was glad, becaufe I might have been unneceffarily hindered all night: The writer who brought us there, made what hafte he could to confult with the other writer : But I ordered in the mean time to yoke in the frefh horfes and drive away. In paffing between the town and caftle, we met both the writers, lb very expeditious had they been, who would have flopped us; but the foldier, who was a terror amongll thefe people, fvvore that he would inflantly fhoot any who durft attempt to flop us, as we were travelling in the night-time, and couriers for the cabinet, and that if the pofl-boy deferted us, that he would fire at him and drive on himfelf: Thus we efcaped being flopped a whole night at leaft, and I was afraid that if they had been examined, it might have been found irregular in the governor of Aftrachan to have granted two paflports iu this manner; though neither the government nor poft-houfes fuffered by them any lofs. I was afterwards however informed that the governor had done nothing irregular: But the Colfacks, whofe towns thefe two were, having more liberty than the Ruffians,
fians, frequently make great work about nothing. Betwixt Chopra and Tamboff is a great defart of one hundred and eighty verfls in which I had but fmall chance of getting any proviiion, and the foldier being a ftrong young healthy fellow who eat plentifully, we, having eat every bit of our own provifions, were reduced to the greateft neceflity. In this extretremity we arrived at a pofthoufe in a very hot fultry day, near the middle of this defart, where we joyfully obferved a kettle boiling; the people told us that they were making a foup of pork, and fome barley and greens ; that we fliould be welcome to a little of it; but, they having no odier veffels to cool it in, than a trough in which they ufed to feed fome pigs, we would be obliged to wait till it was cool enough in the pot, which was the only veffel they eat out of. (Thefe people only flay for a fortnight or month, and are changed by others, fb that they bring no furniture of any kind but what they find abfolutelely neceflary.) We durft make no flay; hunger is extremely pinching; the foldier made not the leaft he-fitation to wafh as clean as he could the naffy veffel, and having cooled fome broth, he defired to know whether I would tafle it ? At any other time fuch a mefs thus ferved up would have proved emetic, but at this time hunger forced me to tafle it, which feeming very delicious, I eat greedily. The pork was
truly
truly good, which, with rye bread, was one of the beft meals I ever made in my life, upon the ftrength of which we arrived at Tain-boff, where we were plentifully fupplied.
Farther on betwixt Tambolf and Rezen, notwithstanding all the care we had the hind-ermoft axletree burnt, and our carriage broke down in the middle of a fmall defart. We had a fpare axletree, but it was too large, nor had we an ax; at a diilance we faw fome peafants mowing hay, to whom the foldier went for an ax, but returned without fuccefs. Extremely mortified at this accident, I was going to difpatch the foldier with the exprefs for the cabinet on foot to the next pofthoufe, when he, who did not chule to part with me, made anfwer, that if I would buy him a broad-fword, if he happened to break his, he would foon make the axletree to anfwer ; To this propofal I gladly agreed, and indeed very expeditioufly he made the axletree fit for the carnage. After this, 1 never travelled without an ax. On the north fide of Mofcow I was ncceflitated to vifit a relation of our governor's, who kept me to flipper about two hours. As his houfe was a mile from the pofl road, the poft-boy, at the next village on the right road, faid, that his horfes, had no refrefhment at the laft village and defired an hour to feed them, which was readily granted.   I fell on a fleep, as did die foldier, but
when
when I looked up, the fun was high in the firmament, and the poft-boy with his two horfes were gone. In the village we found only one man and two horfes, who agreed to carry us about fix verfls farther to the next poft-houfe. If a regular complaint had been made of him who left us, he would have fuf-fered death ; but, I thank God, my hands are hitherto free from blood.
My grenadier had hitherto behaved with undaunted courage, and though I had frequently reproved him for mal-treating the poftmen for not making the expedition he directed, though impoflible for their horfes to do more, he would not abfolutely defiff, but; with an air of important diligence, would order them to drive on ; and, diough often reproved, did not feldom refrefh their memories with his whip. At laft, to the north of Tweer, he threatened a very furly fellow, and, receiving very difagreeable returns, foon made him experience the elaflicity of liis whip. The driver, not relifhing fuch difcipline, leapt from the waggon, and in an inftant overturned my grenadier, dexteroufly belabouring him, till I was truly afraid he would have killed him. With all my power, joined to that of the grenadier, I could fcarcely get him difengaged from the grenadier's hair, who by this time was heartily frightened, his face being all covered with blood, and much hair torn from liis head.   After this my grenadier
was
was metamorphofed from a very troublefome quarrelfome fellow, to the gentlenels of a lamb, nor durft he ufe his ftrength and former inclination when there was need for it. At the next village, however, though I was not difpleafed that the foldier had got a check, I complained to the poll-over leers, and put them in mind of the danger they were in to let a crime of that kind go unpunifhed. I did not forget to allure the guilty man, that my doing fo was with a view to lave him from the gallows, of wliich he would have been certain, if I had complained to the cabinet. His fuperiors, as the grenadier, who gladly witnefled the execution, told me, punifhed him feverely till liis back was covered over with blood.
We had travelled within a few verfts of Novogorod, when we fpied many couriers from the cabinet, all officers ; but as they were exerting all their faculties, trying who fliould get firft, we could have no intelligence from them. We had not proceeded much farther, when we were met by one leading liis horfe quite fatigued, who would have prefled our horfes, being a cabinet-courier ; but when he underflood that we were carrying melfages to the cabinet, he defined ; for cabinet couriers have power to prefs any horfes, when theirs are fatigued, and rendered unable to proceed. He however informed us, that the Grand Duchefs was delivered
of
of a daughter, and thofe officers who had paf-fed us were lent to the different provinces, to intimate thefe joyful news. After this I met with nothing remarkable until I arrived at St Peterfburgh, wliich I did with all fafety on the i 8th of July, and took up my lodging in a palace belonging to my benefactor and commander, Prince Golitzin.
CHAP. LXXVI. Concerning -what happened in St Petersburgh*
IT is remarkable that none of my old acquaintances knew me : I was unknown e-ven to my own brother. As I thought it rea-fonable to take this day to myfelf, I fent for him, and then, in company with him, went to Mr Hadderling's houfe.   We found him at home in company with Brigadier Crofts, my wife's uncle, but neither of them knew inc.    I enquired for Mr Hadderling's daughters, and was informed that they were taking a walk, but would return about tea-time, which they did, but they alio did not know me ; indeed I was as brown as a Spaniard, having been conftantly cxpofed to the weather eighteen days.   Next day I went to die medicine-chancery, at the regular hours, and was immediately introduced to the archiator, who happened to be there with my worthy
3 K friend
friend Dr Miniatty, of whom I made mentidn formerly. The archiator exprelfed fome fur-prife and refentment at my arrival, without having afked leave from the chancery ; but when I had fatisfied him that I had hitherto never been appointed by the admiralty, nor had received my falary fince I left Taverhoff, and produced my paffport from the Prince, with a letter for him, he was fatisfied, and af-fured me, that he had fent four memorials to the admiralty to enforce my fettlement and falary, and that I fhould carry the fifth next day. I returned him my refpectful thanks, but begged that he would either grant my difcharge, or increafe my falary five crowns more per month, as Mr Malloch had received the fame ; and as I was intrufled with the affairs which he had been intrufled with, that I would prefently petition the chancery for that purpofe. The archiator anfwered, that I had not ferved long, and that fuch an advancement of falary was granted only to old fervants. I infifled however, that I had done my duty, and now, as I was born free, I- would either have what was but reafonable, or my difcharge. Dr Miniatty, who had been filent all this time, faid many obliging things in my favour,and defired to fpeak with the archiator privately. The refult was,that he ordered me to prepare a petition for the advancement of my falary, which he had determined to grant,  Jttt difcharged me to mention
any
any thing about my difcharge. Before I left the chancery, I got my petition ready, and delivered it into the archiator's hand.
Next morning I attended the chancery, and received my dilpatches according to my defire for die admiralty. At this time,being well able to fpeak, read, and write the Ruilian language, I had no need of an interpreter, and, afraid of falling into the bafe Secretary Neleuboff's hand, I, though I had no acquaintance with him, went refolutely to Admiral Golovine, a profeffed friend to the Britifh upon all occafions, and prefident of the admiralty. The grandees do not keep people long in waiting, as is done in more civilized nations. I was immediately admitted, and, after I had told him all my grievances, I offered to put into his hands the memorials from the chancery ; but he faid that I ought to carry them to the admiralty, and prefent them myfelf to the board, with a petition acquainting them, that I had been near nineteen months kept from duty by the admiralty's not having duly anfwered the memorials from the medicine-chancery, and craving that the board would do me juftice, and difpatch me for Aftrachan with all convenient fpeed. I did fo, and next morning attended the board when the prefident was there, and produced my memorials and petition, which oc-cafioned a veiy great commotion among the writers. Neleuboff was fent for, and inftant-
ly
ly put under arreft, as was his conciliarift. This laft is a perfon whofe bufinefs it is to keep all the writers belonging to the department in good order, and alio to get all difpatches ready, according to orders he receives from the fecretary ; but fometimes, as in the prefent cafe, they confound all regularity,and when detected, feldorn efcape deferved pu-nifhment.
The fecretary, by fome fubterfuge, had the good fortune to get free with a threatening reprimand ; but the poor conciliarift was condemned to die. I was told that application was made to the moft merciful regent the Grand Duchefs to fave his life, and appoint him to run the gauntlet, which he could but have performed aukwardly enough, as he had formerly loft a leg. This punifliment he had the good fortune to efcape, by the Princefs Elifabeth's mounting her father's throne a few days before he ought to have fuffered.
I loft no time, as has been related, to put my affairs on a good footing ; but there I let them remain a while. As 1 had fome defire to flay, after fo long abfence, amongft my friends ; and, as I had nothing to do but attend the admiralty once every clay, only to let them fee I was in the way of my duty and ready, I had the more time to make my ob-fervations. Befidcs European ambaffadors, one from China, one from Conftantinople, and two from Perfia, refided at once in St Peterfburgh,
terfburgh, and many from fmaller Afiatick principalides. The Chinefe ambaffador was much efleemed for his moderation and good quiet behaviour. The Turkifh was infolent, as was his numerous retinue, beyond all defcription. Some of his followers, having tranf* greffed the bounds of all difcretion, not fatisfied with affronting people on the ftreets, through which they frequently ufed to ride, purely for mifchief, at laft entered into the inhabitants houfes by force, and attempted to abufe both married and unmarried women. Complaints having been fent from the mini-ftry to the ambaffador, were unanfwered and difregarded : At laft a memorial was put into his hands acquainting him of the many former reprefentations which had been fent to him, reprefenting the mifcondud: of his followers, without any regard having been paid to them ; that this was the laft they intended to fend, in which the miniftry demanded, that the Turks fliould only be allowed to walk, unarmed, into the city ; and that their number never fhould exceed two or three at a time ; that the centinels had orders to put a flop to a greater number; and laftly, that an exprefs was fent to the Sublime Porte to juftify fuch conduct. This memorial, inftead of reftraining, rather inflamed them ; for foon after they received it, five Turks fiiperbly drafted, mounted upon their beft horfes, dared to ride up to the bridge,
where
where a ferjeant's command did duty, which they attempted to pais, though the foldier upon watch gave them a fign to retire. The foremoft of the Turks, at pne blow, cut off an arm of the foldier with his fcymitar. The ferjeant at the head of the foldiers brought the Turk to the ground with his halbert, and killed another outright, then ordered the foldiers to prefent; but the three rcmainiug, Turks had no inclination to continue longer. It was faid that die Turk who fell from his horfe was in great danger of liis Ufe, Threatening complaints were lent to the Grand Chancellor Count Ofterman, who, I doubt not, anfwered them properly ; but in place (as was demanded by the ambaffador) of pu-nifhing the ferjeant, he was immediately advanced, for his gallant behaviour, to the rank of an enfign, becaufe be had exactly obeyed the orders given him.
I there faw the public entry of the Perfian ambaffador, and the prefents, with the elephants I formerly had feen at Aflrachan, which was fb per b enough. The ambaffador, with fome of his principal attendants, was carried to court in coaches belonging to the Emperor. Soon after that, many Perfians advanced with Chinefe boxes, in which, it was faid, were contained valuable curiofities natural and artificial, and fome jewels of all kinds. - What the value of thefe prefents might be, I never was informed.  After they
were
were gone, the elephants were conducted, e-very one directed by a man fitting behind liis ears, with a fmall ax in his hand, fuch as I defcribed formerly.    The unruly elephant was very troublefome, for I was witnefs to liis dying into a lit of paflion, that required all die art and power of his keeper to command him.   I happened to be {landing with the learned and reverend Mr Lerna, our mi-nifler, within the glacis of the admiralty, when die beaft, unprovoked, reared his trunk high, made a noife, and directed liis fteps towards us.    We very foon retreated, but if his rider had not been able to manage him, he might have undoubtedly killed fome hundreds of people.    Thefe great beafts were covered with veiy rich filks, brocades, and cloth of gold, fome of them reached near the ground. They gave out that King Solomon's tent covered one of them. It was of filk, very large, antient, and certainly the.worfe of the wearing ; but I fcarcely believe it was Solomon's. Tliis however was efteemed a precious prefent.
After I left St Peterfburgh, in the reign of the Emprefs Elilabeth, in the winter feafon, I was informed, that the courtiers caufed two of die large ft elephants to be brought before the winter palace, with a defign to make them fight; for which purpofe a large dyke of fnow was made crofs t he great area before thepalace. They brought an elephant on each fide of
this
this dyke, oppofite the one to the other, fpoke to them, encouraged, and provoked them as much as they could, but all to no purpofe. They feemed to rejoice to meet, and played with their long teeth as oxen are wont to do widi their horns, but never offered the fmalleft: violence. The foldiers had at laft orders to throw fquibs and fmall fire-works among their feet. The elephant is extremely afraid of all kinds of fire-works : It was cherefore thought, that this would have the effect of cauling diem fight; but in this they were alio miftaken. It had indeed the effecT of frightening them excelfively ; and they ran with their directors differently; the one ran under a large arch, and there killed his governor, by fqueezing him betwixt the arch and his back; the other ran up the principal ftreet, and in his fright feized a German baker, tof-fed him high up in the air, and when the unfortunate man fell down upon the ftreet, the elephant at once prefled him with liis foot to a mafh.
I faw yet remaining betwixt the palace and the admiralty part of the ice houfe, which the late Emprefs Anne had caufed build with a view to ridicule one of the moft antient and refpeclable families in Ruffia, by caufing marry one of that family difordered in mind, to a woman troubled with the fame infirmity. Few great perfonages have ever appeared in the world, who have not one time or other
difcovered
difcovered  fome  weakness, which could fcarcely have been fiifpectcd, till detected. The Emprefs Anne was laid to have been a fenfible, humane, judicious lady, but (he could not check her childifh levities ; and it is not ealy to imagine what was her policy or pleafure in this improper dilplay of her power. The walls were of ice ; the bed-Head, and all pieces of houfehold furniture were made of ice ; they fired out of ice cannons : But for what ? to do honour, or, which is the truth, to ridicule the Rufs nobility in the perfon of a poor foolilh pair, taken from the beft family in Ruflia.    The lame fum of money, which was expended upon this dream, might have made many honeft good families in Ruftia very happy.   I could not help thinking, that it looked as if heaven had designed to let us fee,   what a poor end the greateft earthly grandeur frequently comes to ; for no fooner was tliis farce of mock magnificence ended, than that great Emprefs was taken ill and died ; and although the fucceeding fummer was extremely hot, yet part of the walls of that ice-houfe ftood, to expofe the laft action of the great Empreis Anne, till the month of Auguft, as it were to let people, living at the diftance of thou-fands of miles, have time to witnefs the laft whim of one of the greateft perlbnages upon earth, to have been only fit to amufe children.
3 L In
4*<*     VOYAGES and
In the month of Auguft wo had darly news of the Swedes defigning to attempt the de-flrucliori of the royal navy at Cronftadt. One day in the admiralty, I happened to fpeak with an EngHfhman, who had been very long in the fervice, and was employed at Revel. He was exprefsly lent for to go to Cronftadt, to (ink fome veflels to prevent any ac-cels by the Swedes near the harbour. He faid that he had effectually done his duty, and that die board had given him the rank of'captain of foot; but obferved j that if they had advanced his falary, and given him a fmall pecuniary confideration, it would have been more agreeable to him. Phis man was brought into Ruftia by the father of liis country, the Great Peter: he was faid to be a veiy eminent mechanic, and underflood fea-af-fairs extremely well, andaitho* he was grown old in the fervice, he was but at that time titled a captain, without any in create of his falary for that work I mentioned : No lefs than the fafety of Cronftadt depended upon it, though there was not found one belonging to the navy that the board of admiralty could truft with it ; and the only impediment to make a figure in the navy was owing to an cxcelhve modefty, and a confiderable (hare of wifdom,u(eful to others,but not to himfelf.
7he great General Keidi arrived in St Pe-terfburgh this feafon. I would gladly give a character of this great man, but finding
myfelf
myfelf very unequal to fuch a performance, let it therefore fuffice to fay, if ever any man was polfeiled with wifdom, true bravery, ami greatnefs of foul, he was the perfon. JHis actions, during the courfe of his long fervice in Rullia, demon/bate this to be true. He kept excellent difcipline in his army, yet the foldiers called and efteeined him their father; He never was vain-glorious, no high language did he ever utter; every exprelhon was mo-deft : But the word of command was refolution itfelf. The foldiers adored him,nor were they ever in the leaft afraid of any number of enemies, when he commanded them. He was always fuccefsful, and though he Mas wounded, yet he never was conquered. It would employ larger volumes than mine to give fome regular account of this great man. I ftiall therefore only obferve, that he commanded an army of 40,000 regular troops in the Ukraine, when the late Emprefs Anna Joannovna died ; and when he received the orders to fwear, and alfo to caufe his army fwear leaky to the Duke of Conrland, he would not do it.   Ke had no objection to the Emperor John's being heir ; but he judged very prudently, diat the Duke of Courland, being couftiuued regent, never could be agreeable to the Grand Duchefs, nor the Prince ; wherefore, he pcrfiiaded the army under his command to remain as they were, till the royal family's pleafurc fliould be
known ;
known ; and for that very purpofe difpatched a major, in whom he could put trull, with an account of his refolution, and advifed the major to get into St Peterfburgh, by unfren quented vtfays, dreffed as a peafant, and apply to the Grand Duchefs, or her royal hufband, perfonally.   This was fucccfsfully effected ; but the Duke of Courland was arretted, and fent to Shiffelburgh that night he arrived : However, the Grand Duchefs was well pleafed to fee that flie had a general in chief, with fo refpectable a number of troops, Tvho had nobly difdained to take oaths for the jbuke of Courland, and only waited her Highnefs's orders, to refcue her from all danger.    This great general was in St Per teriburgh at my arrival, defign ed to command the army under his great friend Count Lacy,whoever entertained fo high an opinion of his military genius, that he never attempted any tiling of moment without his approbation and concurrence.   The Swedes infatuated, declared war, at a time when any fingle man might have forefeen their danger. The army |of Rullia was then not only numerous, but flufhed with the many victories and conquefls they had gained over the Turks, and commanded by their victorious generals, whom they really adored.
CHAR
CHAP. LXXVII.
Declaration of War againft Sweden.
TH E Swedes were forward enough to declare war on the 28th of July, and the Ruiiians on the 24th of Augufl following. The declaration was read in the Britifh chapel immediately after fervice, before any of the auditory were permitted to retire, and on Monday the army began to crofs the Neva in their way to Wilmanflraiid, where General Wrangle lay ftrongly encamped with a body of 14,000 men.   An accident happened in the night preceding the aclion, which might have difcouraged lefs refolute troops than the Ruffians. The Ruffians, at no great diftance from the enemy, encamped on a riling ground, almofl furrounded with bogs. Orders were given to keep a fliarp look-out during the night-time, and that if any thing was obferved to flir in the bogs, a fignal was to  be given by the difcharge of a mufket.   The night was very dark, and a thick fog had fpread over all that country. Near morning a horfe had flrayed into the bogs, and a centinel hearing fome noife from thence, fired (as he was commanded) his piece; when inftantly the whole army was under arms.    The regiment next to that
centinel,
454-     VOYAGES and
centinel, raiftaking, in the fog, their friends for enemies, fired upon them, which was immediately returned, and many brave men were killed and wounded on both fides, before it was poftible to difcover their error : However, this had no other bad effect upon the braveft troops in the world, than the lofs, which was too great, of thefe few men.
The army marched ftraight to the enemy, whom they found flrongly intrenched, with Wilmanftrand on their right, and a very well fortified camp on their left. The Ruiiians attacked them with the greateft conduct and refolution imaginable. The Swedes, equally refolute, defended thcmfclves with great bravery from two o'clock, P. M. till nine at night, when the fhattered remains of thenar my fur rendered themlelves prifoners of war. An ill advifed accident happened at the end of this action. The town of Wilmanftrand difplayed their white flag, and offered to deliver it up to the Ruffians. The field-marfhal ordered a few of his beft troops to take poffefhon of the gates : Before they had marched half way, the Swedes upon the walls fired upon them, which exafperated them to fuch a degree, that a terrible carnage enfued.
During the heat of the battle, as I was credibly informed, Major-general Uxkull ordered a Scots gentleman (Captain Fullerton) to march with his company, to force a redoubt.
TRAVEL S.
doubt : Mr Fullerton, now Lieutenant Ge-eral, bad not marched far before he loft the half of his men. At this inftant General Keith, who was every where, palling by, afked who that was? and ordered him back to his former ftation. Mr Fullerton aftiired-t-hc General that he had only obeyed the orders of his Major General. Keith fent off one of his adjutants in queft of the Major General, who was found far from danger : But Mr Keith, who could not relifli fo very abfurd an order, told Mr Uxkull of his error, and alfo of his keeping- far from danger. He then ordered him to remain in fuch a place from whence he could have a diftinct view of his divilion, and fend his orders without lofs of time. It was told me that thefe orders were fcarcely given, till Uxkull was killed with a cannon ball, as it were to go hence and anfwer for the blood of fo many brave men foolifhly fpilt.
All the ammunition, cannon, fmall arms, grenadoes, rents, fee. belonging to the Swe-difh army fell into the hands of the Rufti-ans ; the fort of Willmanftrand was razed to the ground, and upwards of two thoufand prilbners were difpatched into Ruffia, bolides three thoufand wounded foldiers. The brave General Wrangle was wounded and fent with the reft of the Swedifti officers to St Peterfburgh, and ufed with great humanity.   He begged, and obtained his defire,
diat
that he might be kept near Count Lacy, his conqueror. The Count gave him lodgings in his houfe, and frequently through the day vifited him, and although Mr Wrangle was near eighty years of age, he was very f00n recovered.
Tliis old General had been formerly a prifoner in Ruffia, in Peter the Great's time, and had been obliged, before he could obtain liberty, to return home, to engage never to ferve againft the Ruiiians upon pain of death, and fuch an engagement he had (ign-cd. He no fooncr was recovered, than the Emprefs Elizabeth, who tlien reigned, fent to congratulate him on his recovery, and exprefled her defire to fee him at Court. He accordingly went and paid his refpe&s to her Majefty, but flill he had fome diffidence that die Ruilian government might call him to an account for having ferved againll them at this time ; and therefore thought proper to hint as much to that mofr merciful Sovereign. She called him father, and expreffed no fmall fnrprife that he could entertain a thought tliat die Ruffians were lb barbarous ; afluring him of all liberty cither to (lay there, or retire to Sweden, upon his parole given not to ferve during this prefent war. But flie exprefled no fmall furprife that he, in fo advanced an age, could be prevailed upon, or indeed was able, to endure the fatigues of war. To wliich he only anfwered
fwercd that he thought it his duty to ferve his country, nor never could decline it, lb long as he was able, unlefs prevented by his parole of honour ; though at the lame time he acknowledged, that even giving his parole not to ferve longer againft the Empire of Ruftia could not be difagreeable to him, be-caufe he had, fince liis arrival in St Peterfburgh, experienced lb much humanity and poiitenefs, that he much doubted if any nation in Europe could equal it: For, laid the old man, to f urpafs it is impollible ; and he did not fcruple to declare that even the Swedes could not blame liim lor fuch fen timet! ts.   He farther declared that he, from principle purely, never would fight againit. her Imperial Majefty's intereft, but would be glad of all opportunities to fight againft her enemies, provided only that Sweden was excepted.    Upon which he obtained his liberty, and the Swedilh officers were permitted to walk through the flreets of St Peterfburgh, and dine at any gentlemen's houfes, who were alfo recommended by the Court to ufe diem with all manner of hofpitality.
3 M C II A P.
CHAP. LXXVIIL
Concerning what happened to the Author, and the cruel Crafna Schoke.
THE battle of Wilmanftrand was fought upon, the third of September. An order from the Medicine's Chanceiy was brought to my lodgings on the fifth, early in the morning, commanding my immediate attendance. When I entered the Chancery, the fecretary defired me to make all hafte to go for Wilmanftrand ; becaufe, faid he, the number of wounded is fo great that it is not polfible for the furgeons, and others to vifit them once in one day, and, telling me, that a memorial was making out for the Admiralty to acquaint them with this refolution. This was a blow I very little expected. I ex-poffulated with them as much as I was able. I put them in mind of my contract, by which they might learn that I never intended to ferve in the army : Then I defired them to reflect upon my having been near twenty months without pay, one farthing of which I had not as yet received: Laftly, I defired them to confider what the Board of Admiralty and others would think of them, when they daily fent to diem fuch wavering un-fettled memorials. To this an old fly tranf-litor, a German, named Waring, faid that
the
the Archiator defigned, as foon as a vacancy fhould happen, to advance me in the army, and had promifed me out of the Chancery two months pay as a prefent.   By this time I had got a little more courage, and calm reafon was taking its place : I frankly anfwered, tliat from the very beginning of my fervices I was told, and indeed gave credit to it, that the Archiator defigned to advance me; that I hoped this would have taken place long before the time of my contract, was expired : But that all thefe fine promifes had hitherto taken no other effect, than to make me quite diffident.    That, as I was in pofleffion of atteffations from all my commanders concerning my good fervices, and from the Medicine's Chancery concerning my qualifications ; and finally as the time of my engagement in the fervice was expired;  I was determined to take my difmiffion  from it.    To   thefe rea-fonable remonflranccs, I was told that fuch language was fcklom heard in Ruffia, and that if I would not go voluntarily, there was no difficulty to fend me with a party of dragoons,   Though I made anfwer, that if they fent me with dragoons, neither they nor the dragoons could caufe me do what I would not; yet the dragoons ran fo much in my fancy all day, that I dreamed of them at night.   Finding they could not get me to agree, they advifed me to go to the Archia-
tor>
tor. I did fo, and our difconrfe ended much in the fame way as above, only with this remarkable difference, that the Archiator in great rage declared that I fliould be lent that very night.
I now for the firft time, fince I arrived in Rulfia, began to be alarmed, and I could find none to firpport me, however juft my caufe was, but the .Britifh Ambaflador. I loft, therefore, no time in reprefenting my grievances to him, though altogether a ftranger. The honourable Mr Finch our ambaflador, who was greatly carcfled at court, ordered me to return to the chancery, and let them know from him, that if diey broke through the agreement of our contract, or that if they fent me by an act of arbitrary power to anyplace, contrary to their fenfe of my a^ greement with them, he woidd cfpoule my caufe, and have juftice done me; and that he had ordered me to call daily at his houfe to acquaint his fecretary with their proceed* ings againft me : And laftly, if they fent me away, he would apply to the Grand Duchefs, and get me brought back very foon, and would not fail to get them punifhed for their perfidy and tyranny. I made no manner of hefitation to report the ambaflador's meftagc, at which they feemed not a little difturbed. Whilft I was in the chancery, the Archiator arrived; and I, not knowing what would be my fate, depended upon Mr; Finch's pro-mi fe,
mife, and, as I was defired, fat in the room waiting the iffue; for at this time all the doors where the Archiator and his counfellors were confulting, were not only flint, but centi-nels placed at them, fo that it was impofli-ble to over-hear one word.    After about half an hour's waiting, I was fummoned to attend.    I doubted not that they would threaten much, and endeavour by fuch ways to prevail with me to fubmit, though I was firmly refolved to Hand it out to the laft extremity.    But how much was I furprifed to hear the Archiator fpeak to me with more complaifance than ever he did before, and put into my hands at the fame time a memorial to the admiralty, acquainting them that the fub-furgeons and learners whom I had formerly required, agreeable to the regulations for the port at Aftrachan, were difpatched; therefore defiring the admiralty to grant their falaries and difpatches without lofs of time. He at this time never fpoke one word about the army or dragooning, but parted with me very relpecftfully: The truth is, I had been informed, and experienced it to be true, that * the honourable Mr Finch was remarkably diftinguiflied at that court, and that every college or office in St Peterfburgh was afraid of him ; for he always fpoke out, and whatever he reprefented was well taken, and anfwered according to his defire.   As I was walking home, Dr Smith, an Irifli gentfc-
man,
man, phyfician to the guards, met mc, and laid tliat the Archiator had laid to liim that I was extremely obftinate, fee. This gentleman, I dare lay, wiftied me very well, and fpoke the real fentiments of his mind. At the finiflhing of his difcourfe, he defired me to remember I was not in Great Britain, and wiflicd I would fmell the ground. My anfwer was fhort, viz. that I had eonfidered every thing, and that though I had not been fo long in Ruftia as he, I had fmelled and meafured twice as much Ruffian ground as he had, at leaft: That I had taken my meafures, and was determined never to fubmit to do any thing, but what by my contract I had pointedly agreed to. This affair thus ended, and I never was troubled more about it.
The war was carried on with vigour on the Ruffians fide. Gen. Keith forced a very ftrong out-poft belonging to the Swedes, not without an equal lofs of men : But a barbarous affair happened at this time, which Would have tarniftied the glory of the Ruffian army, if it bad been carried on by any of the regulars. A Coffack, called Crafna Schoke, or Red Checks, was bred in Peter the Great's army, and, for his bravery upon all occafions, was, by that Great Sovereign, created major-general of the irregular Coftacks. This Crafna Schoke was a perfect lavage, nor was even Peter the Great able to reftrain his cruel diipofition, neither
by
by threats nor punifhments.  He was indeed ftrong, indefatigable, and took veiy little reft. Before the war was declared, he arrived in St Peterfburgh with 4000 horfemen under his command.    He one day was admitted into die preience of the Grand Duchefs, who was pleafed to fay, tliat (he was fbrry for all the horfe, but particularly the irregulars, becaufe no magazines had been erected for them. Crafna Schoke, without any hefitation, made anfwer, That if her Highnefs would only lofe no time in declaring war, he would alk no manner of forage for his horfes; but till that was done, he could not provide for them, and a very fhort delay would render them quite ufelefs lor war : fie laid, tliat had Peter die Great followed his advice, there would have been no war at prelcnt; for, faid he, I advifed the Great Emperor to cut off women and children: Now, laid he, thefe very infants, then fucking their mothers breads, and many born fince, arc the people who form their arnfy at prefent: Upon this declaration, the Great Duchefs let him know, that (lie and the u hole miniftry hated cruelty of all kinds ; that fhe cftcemed Peter the Great for his humanity, as much at leaft, as for all his other great qualifications joined together. She ufed the force of all her rhetoric to dil1 fuade him from cruelty, and ended her dif-courie by alluring him that he never could expect any cftecm or regard from her, if he
ufed
464      V O Y A G E S and
ufed the enemy cruelly, but averred that file looked upon all fuch as the common enemies of mankind. Then, this generous and companionate Princels intreated the Eield-marlhal and General Keith carefully to obferve Crafna Schoke's actions, and to reftrain his native fiercenefs and barbarity. However defpotic a regular general may ex-ercife his great power over the irregulars in the Ruilian army, a prudent man finds himfelf obliged to ufe found policy, and take all the gentle ways poflible to gain his end ; wherefore thele two great generals contented themfelvcs to difliiadc Crafna Schoke to refrain from his former barbarous actions, and careffed him much above what either his rank, or any other qualifications had a title
to. ' "f?^4^H
The battle of Wilmanftrand was fcarcely ended, when Crafna Schoke and his men were amiifing* The generals had no doubt of his being let out upon fome of his irregular expeditions, but couki not conceive what it might be. At laft, after three or four days abfence, he appeared loaded with fpoil, and many thoufand heads of cattle. A few days after that, a major was difpatched from Count Lewenhaupt with expreifes for Field-marflial Lacy, giving a particular account of the many hamlets . and villages burnt to the ground, and every foul put to death, who unfortunately fell into the hands of that
barbarian
barbarian Crafna Schoke, and poflibly this major was charged with fome other affairs. The Field-marlhal, agreeable to liis natural politenefs, received the major, treated him, and entertained him as a gentleman, and laftly parted with him, after having been an hour in fecret difcourle, openly conferring upon him fome marks of diftinction : Whether   Crafna Schoke  iufpected that complaints had been made to the Field-marfhal or not, I never could learn; but the next morning he went off with only a handful of men, to reconnoitre the enemies lituaiion ; he palfed fome miles on a narrow way, fitu-ated betwixt mountains and an impaflable morafs, till he was at laft flopped by a breaft-work, mounted with cannon, which he did not rclifh ; lie therefore returned back the way he came, for there was no other; but had not retreated far till he was flopped by another breaft-work, which the enemy had thrown up whilft he was inarching to the far-theft off one: lie was there attacked brifkly, nor could he efcape ; he would not deliver himfelf and men up prifoners : At laft however he rode into the morafs, but not far, till his horfe was drowned, and himfelf fliot ; too good a death for fuch a man! The Swedes certainly had way-laid hunt, for thcv* knew him well, and not fatisfied with having fliot him, it was faid, they cut the dead
I N body
body all to pieces. Such was the end of this inonfter of the human kind.
But this affair did not altogether end thus, for a body of the guards was at this time in the army, and a few of them were upon duty at the Field-marfhal's tents, when the Swedifh major had a conference with his Excellency. They, having obferved the polite behaviour of the Ficld-marfhal to the major, tho* an enemy, were prepoftelTed with a foolifli notion that the Fiekl-marfhal was defigned to deliver the Ruif an army into the hands of Count Lewenhaupt ; and, without great difficulty, brought the reft of the guards into their way of thinking ; who fuddenly took to arms, without fb much as one officer, threatening to extirpate all the foreigners in the army: The Field-marfhal committed their reduction to the care of General Keith, who, being their lieutenant-colonel, mounted immediately, after having given private orders to his adjutants, and rode calmly up to them, made inquiry into thecaufe of their grievances, put them in mind that they never could attempt any thing of them-felves, and allured them that the refult would end in their deflrucTion. He then advifed them to put themfelves under his command, who was their lieutenant-colonel, and he would anfwer for it, that they fliould have fpeedy juftice done th^m. They agreed to this and declared their fatisfaclion to be commanded
manded by the ever-victorious General Keith. He then commanded them to draw up and go through their exercile ; at laft, he ordered them to ground their pieces, and march off the ground : At this inftant, a regiment of Cuiraftiers rode up, furrounded and dif-armed them.   They were mftantly (hackled and fent to St Peterfburgh in carts; and thence difperfed in fmall numbers in garrilbns through the whole Empire, with ftricT orders to punifh them with great Severity for every final! crime which they might be guilty of.   Twenty or thirty of thofe mad-men were fent to Aftrachan ; but the Princefs Elizabeth had mounted the throne before this happened ; an account of which memorable affair I fhall give, as I had it from good authority, though I acknowledge it is not agreeable to any other account hitherto given of it.
END   OF   VOLUME FIRST:
%* Same few Error* have efcaped into this Firft Vo* lume, the Author refiding at a Diftance from the Prefs, hut thefe fliall be carefully corrected hy Errata at the End of the Second.