17

A

Brief Account

OF SOME

TRAVELS

I N

IIVNGARIA, ] r AV  S TRIA,
SERVIA, ST TRIA,
BVLGARIA,  l < CARINTHIA .
MACEDONIAJ CARNIOLA.

THESSALT,

and FRIVLI.

As alfo

Seme Obfervations on thc Gold, Silvcr , Copper 9

^uick-filver fitnes, Baths,  and ^Jiiinerd Waters  in
thofe parts:

With the

Figures  of fome Habits and Remarkable places.

By E D WA R D B R 0 W N  M. D.

of the Collegc of LONDON,  Fellow of the R.Sccietj?,
and Fhyfician in Ordinary to His M A J ES T Y.

LONDON ,

Printed by T. R. for Benj. Tookg , and are to be Sold at thc
Sign of thc Ship  in St .fault  Church-yard , 1673.


er

U


TOT II E

RIGHT HONOURABLE

H E N R Y

Lord MARQUIS of DORCHESTE  /?,
Earl of KING S T 0 N,
Vifcount N E W A R K y

Lord E1ERREEONE, MJNFERS,  an d HERRIR,

AND

One of the Lorcls of His  MAJESTIES moftHoncu- ;
rabi e Privy Gornici!.


MY LORD,

gg§ F Ambition had not made it al~
ready the c njimi of many Parts
of  Europc j which fretend to $e
the mofi literate , and univ erfalf fnoiv-
ing j to dedicate their Boohy not onely to
great Princes 3  and Heroes y  and to the  Di j
minorum gen ti um, but alfo to afcend
higher y  and offer them  ( bon ? mean foever

A  3

THE E PIS TLE

they be') even to Omnifciency, and Omni -
potency  , I Jhould be afraid to prefent any
thing fo inconfiderable to fo great a Fer-
fon. Tour Lordfiip is our particular Pa -
tron, and you bave ohliged ali our Facnlty
for ever , by fo noble a condefcenfion of
your Lordpips, as that of honouring the
College of  Phy(itians tvith your Name 3
and being one of their Society.

Some Princes in former Ages kave
not thought it betom their greatnefs to
loof^ into a Profeffion fo nfefull to man-
fynd y  and fome of great birth bave
madeit their Employment ali their life-
time: but to tompare them to your Lord -
pip monld be to be injurious to your great
Name ; and me mili eafely forget to
Eoafl of  Abenhali., Alhafen 3  Ebenhali,
Ebenfina Prince of  Corduba 5  fince your
Lordjhip bat h given us leave to glory in
the Name of  Dorchefter. Kingfton ,

Newark.

dedicatory.

Nevvark, Pierrepont, Man ver s and  Her-
rir. Ali our Lahom s, S tudi e s  5  Trme Is :
and Induflry 3  can n e v er arrive at that ac-
comflifhment 3  as to return thanby band-
fomly for that gentile way your Lordfiip
bat h found cut to honcur us: and y a y our
L or dpif is fleafed to accep of the por
Attemps of bim that is the moji inferior
of them. 1 can onely fay that your Lord-
jhig confirms that Amhition and Ardenr
l aln?ayes bad to he 3

MY LORD,*

Your Lordftiips

Moft devoted and moft humble Scrvanr,

EDWARD BROfVN.

TO T H &

R E A D E R.

I V I N G in an Age ib cu~
rious 5 and inquiiitive,and with-
ali ib induftrious , that every
day addeth new Informations,
and Accounts , both of our own Coun-
try and forraign parts; The Gandor alfo
and ingenuity of many being iuck, that
they will eafily accept of imall Attempts
to manifefl: any thing of Art or Nature,
I am encouraged to publilli theie few
Sheets of what occurred to me in ibme
remote parts of Europe.  The laft-year
I found it not amiis, that I cauled to be
Printed in Englijh  a Diicourie of the O-
riginal , Country, Manners , Govern¬
ment, and Religion of the Cojjac\ f, with
another of the Prsecopian Tartan , and
the Hiftory of the Wars of the Coffacfy

b againit

To the R E A D E R

M

i

againft Poland,  and if this year I put
forth fome Obfervationsand fhort Re~
marks, made in Hnngaria 3  Servia 3  BuL
gariaJVLacedoniaf&c.  I am bold to hope
for a kind acceptance from Civil^Learn-
ed., and worthy Perfons. Nor could I
well omit fhaving feen fo many places
in Hungary :> and had opportunity of con-
verfation with many of the Country)
to make a general Delcripdon  thereof.
Having alfo fo favourable an opportu-
nity to view the Baths., Mineral-waters 3
and Mineš of that Country, and by the
fpecial favour of Signor Gianelli , the
ehief Officer, andCountof the Mine-
Chamber 3  obfervcd many tbings in the
Copper, Silver^ and Gold Mines^I hope
you will excufe fo long aDilcourfo therofl
And although it were a hard and un-
ufual Journey 9  yet a fair opportunity
at Vienrn  carried me unto the Ottoman

Court

To the RE A D ER.

Court at Larijfa  through a good part
of th q  Europdsan Turine  A  which having
been paffed by few Englijh  men,I thought
fome account thereof might be admitted
as containing many things which are not
ulually delivered 3  although it intendeth
not the Defcription of the Turh^jh  Pow-
er- Greatnefi 3  and Po3icy, which hath
been already lo weil performed by others.

Obiervation of natura! Remarkables.,
in Hilly, and Mountainous Countryes 3
inclined me chiefly unto my Journey
from Vknna to Verice 3  but underftand-
ing there was not fo much to beobferved
in the common Road 3  I fetched a com-
pafe, and came about, paffing from plače
to plače a  according as remarkable things
or curiofities invited , and made my re-
turn to Vienna 3  by the Road 3  or little
out ofit j that 1 .might have the better.
variety in that Journey.

b 2

I

To the R E A D E

I was unwilling to charge this W ork
with numerous Guts, and Prints; and
therefore have inferted but a few :)  al-
though I was not unprovided of many
more 3  to thenumber of an hundredj
proper to this Work of Habits y  Po¬
li: u res , Hi lis y  Caftles 3  Forts y  Monafte-
ries, Sepulchres^ Fountains., Ruines^Me-
dals, Coyns, Bridges, ColumnesSta-
tua’5^ &c.  rareJy or not at ali  to be
met with , which from my own rude
draughts and dire&ions. I ha ve caufed
to be drawn in their proper colours linče
my return.

If any of thefe inferted be pleafing to
your eye, or any thing mentioned here-
in may be acceptable, I ftiall be encou-
raged hereafter to fet forth the Defcrip-
tionof otherparts, and places 5  but will
atprefent detain you no longer from the
reading of thefe.

Edvard Bron?n.

THE

General Defcription

o F

HUNGARY.

far HUN G A RIA  exceedeth o-
aS tlier Countries of Europe  in Mineš,
Baths, and .Mineral-waters; becaufe
I have elfewhere given a particular
account'of fuch Subjeds, I fhall at
prefent omit their repetitions,andat
this time add fome other Confidera-
bles; and in thefirft plače fay, That
it aboundeth not onIy in thofe,but is alfo the beft  Rivered
Country in Europe:  nor doth any region thereof afford fo
many noble and ufeful Streains.

Gn the Eaftfide it is wafhed with that noble and Navi-
gable River Eibifcus,or,  the 2Vr/T(?,arifing in the Country of
Mkremrm, at the foot of the high Carpathian  hills: Which
having received the Marifcm  or Marija , and many Rivers
into it,runneth into the Dambe,  betvveen Varadine , St.iV-
ter,  and Belgrade.  By this River cometh down the great
quantity of natural Štone-falt, brought from many Salt-
mines in Hungarp,  and Tranfplvam;  whertof a great part
is brought up the Dambe  to ali places, as far as Presburg;
(it being prohibited to be carryed any higher) leaft it
fhould hinder the fak of the Jiipim  Sak , uponwhich

B the

C 2 )

the Emperour hath an Impofr, and no finali quantity alfo
down the D muhe , and aftervvards up the River Morava
into Servia,  and neighbour Countrie?.

On the VVeft fide runsthe River ^Arabo  or Rab,  rifing in
Stjria,  and runninginto the Drnube by Javrimm  or Rab.
A confiderable River receiving the Lauffnmz, Ricca,
Guncz,  and other Rivers into it. And now Jately more
fatnous , forthedefeat of the Tbttrks,  under Aehmet  the
Grand Vizier,  by the Imperial Forces, at St. Goihard,
mgh this River. The di fcourfe hereof \va's fr e (h,  wfcen I
was at theCity of Rab:  and many I found, who favvthe
eorps of Men and Horfes floating in that ftream.

Upon the Southern parts, are confiderable the River
D ravne  or Dreta,  which arifing in the Territory of Saltz-
burgland,  a partof old Koric/m,  runneth a long courfe
through Cetrmthm  and Jhmgary , and falleth into the Da~
mbe,x\t2X Erdeed,or  old ‘leutoburgtum\zittx  it hath pafied
froin its head about three hundred miles. About its en-
trance into Hmgary,  it receiveth into it the long River
Mar ; and, far above this, nearer its original I found it
a confiderable flream r having pafled the fatne by a good
Bridge as highas Villach  or Vittaco,  and bettveen CUgenfurt,
and Mount Leubeli  in Carmthia , I paffed the farne alfo
by two long Wooden Bridges, and an Ifland in the rniddle
between them.

On the-faine fide is alfo the noble River Savne,  or the
54«;’which arifing in Carintbia , entreth the Drnube  at
Relgrade \  continuing a long courfe of about three hun-
dred miles, and ftvelling by the accefilon of many good
Rivers. Beingat Carmdunum  or Crainburg,  anhandfome
Town, not- far diftant from the head, it appeared a con¬
fiderable flream; vvhich is aftervvards fo enlarged, as to
have reinarkablelflands in it, as that of Metubaris , to the
Wefl of old Sirnim ,  and that oi.SigeJlica  or Sijfeck,

by

C 3 )

by Zagrabia , containing of o!d a ftrong and famous
Town ;  unto which the Old Rcmans  brought their Com-
modities from Jquileia,  and fo by Land to Labach  or JSfau-
p ort m  ; From ihence un;o Segejlica , and fonvards, for the
fupply of thofe Provinces, and their Garrifons and Forces
in them. Between thefe two nob!e Currents of the Dra-
•vu-s  and the Savus^peth  a fair and long Inter-anmian  Coun-
try, vvherein Soljman  the Magnificent chofe a fafe retreat,
until he came to Eelgrade :  when, vvith about four hun-
dred thoufand men, which he brought to take Vienna , he
darednot tomeet the Forces of Charles the  Fifth, then en-
canrped before that City.

Upon the North part of Hungarj,  are the Rivers arifing
from the Carpathun  Mountains vvhich divide Poland  and
Hungarj more part icu/arly the River G ran,  which run-
neth into the Danube , over againft Strigonium  or G ran  ;
and alfo the River Waag  or Vagus , which cometh in above
Cmara:  which Stuckim , an ocnlar witnefs, conceivetb
to equal the Po  in ltalj.  I ain fure, at Preijlat,  above fifty
mi les, before it difchargeth into the Danube, -it  is a very
Jarge Stream, and hath a long Bridge over it; part where-
of was broken down by the [ce, the farne year when I was
there. And far above it, nearerthe head , there is alfo a
confiderable Bridge at Trenfihin , a fair Tovvn, which
giveth the name unto that Country, and tnuch reforted
unto, for its hot Baths, and Mineral Waters ; having no
lefs than thirty two plentiful Springs.

The great Dambius  or 7'honau  continueth its flream
quite through Hungarj;  and no one Province hathalarger
fhare of it; for accounting from the City gf Ulme  in
Srvabenland  or Suevia  , where it beginneth to be Naviga-
ble, it continueth a long courfe , pafling b y Ingoljlad,
Ratisbone, Straubing , Paffau , Pint z,,  and Vtema,  unto Prej-
burg \  from whence through Hungarj  it maket h a courfe

B 2  of

c 4;

of above thre hundred miles, before it pafifeth by Eeb-
grade:  To o mit the long ftrearo thereof in it s ftrther pro-
grefs, when having vvafhed the fhoars of Servia, Eulgaria,
Waliachia , and Moldavia  , vvith many mouths it entreth the
E it x ui e  or Black Sea:  having in.this long paffage- drank in
above fixty confiderable Rivers; and in foberaccount
performed a courfe of above fifteen hundred miles.
Whereby it may tolerably adinit the double name of
Dambim  , and IJler , properiy applyed unto difiind
parts thereof.

So that, although I have feen the Dannbim,  for about
feven hundred miles ; yet cannot teli, vvhether I may cei>
tainly fay,. that I have feen any part of ljier.  For Strahe
afcribeth that name unto it, belovv its Cataratf,  or great
ft.ll, vvhich happeneth about Jxicfolis,  in Mcejta  inferior,
or Eulgari a.  But jjppianus,  and later Account, define it to
begin at its concurrence vvith the Savu. f, at Eelgrade  and
if fo, yetwehad butaihort fight of the IJler ; vvhich tra-
velling more up into Servia , vve were fain to leave at Hif-
fargich.  And of this IJler  or lower part of the River,many
"things are fpoken and related by the Ancients, vvhich are
not fo p!ainly verifiable of Dambius,.

Befides thefe large Rivers above named, there are fome
others, taken notice of alfo by E linj;  and efteemed Eluvii
mn igmbiles.  The Sarvizza,  or Orpanus,  arifing near Vej
prinium , and pafiing by dl Ib a Regalu , runneth into the
Darnbe , vvhich I paffed over at Jeni , or nova E danka .
The River Walpo  or Vulpanm,  arifing above the Town of
Walp,  which was taken by Solj/man,  in his march to Alba
Regalu,  or Stull-Wei[fenburg .. We paffed over it by Walco-
var,  and the River Eejnethor Eacuntlm vvhich runneth
into the Savm,  not far from old Sirmium.

As this Country excelleth in Rivers, fo hath it alfo
man v confiderable and long Bridges ; there is a long.

Bridge

( 5 )

Bridge of Boats over the Danube , between Strigonium
and Barchan  ; which is the firft Bridge onf s this River,
which vremeet with froin the great Wooden Bridge at Vir
enna , which takes above two thoufand Trees to plancher
it. Upon the fhoar of St.^Fndrem IJiand,  by Virouichitz,

I took notice of a ruineof Stones, where the Furks  to!d
us, there had been formerly a Stone Bridge : But the Turks
in thefe parts, think it beft to make Bridges of Boats;
which they fo handfomly contrive, as to open a paffage
for Boats, and Veftelsof burthen to pafs; fo that he that
beholds thofe in thefe parts, will not wonder at the
Bridges of Boats at Rouen , and Grenoble  in France.  Be-
tvveen Buda  and Feft , there is a Bridge of Boats over the
Danube , whereit runnethallinoneftrcam, of above ha!f
a mile long v the beft I have feen of this kind, and if
Sigifmundhzd  lived to effeft his defign,. of making a nota-
ble Stone-Bridge in this plače, there had probabIy been
no Bridge in Europe  to compare with it. There is a!fo a
Bridge at Calocza , formerlv an Jrchbifbofs  Sea,and a hand-
fome and vvell-eontrived Bridge , by Walcovar  over the
River Walpo.  But that of EJfeck,  or Murja  of o’d,i$ fcarce
to be paralleBd vvith any other;built partly over the Dra-
uui.)  and partly over the Fenns , which are often over-
flo\ved. The Bridge is five.miles at leaft in length , having
Towers builtupon it at the diftance of every quarter of a
mile: It is handfomIy railed on each fide, and fupported
by great Trees, ere&ed underit; nine or ten in a rank,
unto each Arch. That part of the Bridge, which was
built over the Dravta , was burnt down by Count Nicho-
las Seri n,  in the late Turkijh  Wars between ■Lecpolduc  the
Firft, Emperour of G er manj , and Sultan Mahomet  the
Fourth : and is now fupplyed by a Bridge of Boats,fome-
what below the former ; which I pafled over in Septem¬
ber g. 669,  The Turks  didr.ot rebuild it in the farne placs,

becaufe

(6 j

becaufe the Supporters below the water, when the fire
ceafed, were fo ftrongly faftned and hard, that it would
have coft them too great a labour, to get them up. By
this Bridge the Turktjh  Forces pais into Hungarg :  and at
this plače the unfortunateKing Ludovicm  thought to have
flopped the Turkijb  Army, vvhich marched under S o Igman.
And late]y Count Serim  undertook alongmarch to burn
the farne, to prevent fupplies from coming to the Vifier,
who vvas with his Artny inorher parts of Hungarg.

And as thereare ftill many Bridges over theupper Da-
mbe , fo have there alfo been in old time upon the lotver,
or JJirian  part thereof. Varim  King of Ferfia  made a
Bridge of Boats over that mouth of the IJler,  called Ojlium
Sacrum. Nicefhorm  relates, that Conjiantine  bui lt a Stone
Bridge oven it. But the moft remarkable and admirable
Bridge, vvas that, bui It by the Enfperour Jdrian , and
defcribed by Dion  the Hiftorian : vvhereof there are ftiil
fome ruines, not far from Severin , about twenty Hunga-
rian  mi les from Belgrade.  This Bridge confifted of twenty
piles of fquare Stone of an hundred foot high, befides
the foundation: of fixty foot in breadth, and the diftance
between each of them one hundred and feventy foot; and
conjoyned by Arches, upon the vvhich \vas this Infcri-

PROVIDENTI A AUG.

VERE PONTIFICIS VIRTUS ROMANA
QUID  NON  DOMAT? SUB JUGUM ECCE
RAPITUR ET DANUBItIS.

And, as a Memorial hereof, many Koman  Coynes were
ftamped, and fome in Silver, not yet rare among us;
with this Infcription, DAN UVIII S,

No

C 7 )

No River affordeth fo large and peopled Iflands. Be-
tvveen Vicegrad  and Vacia , there is a fair and large Ifland.,
called Bt.Jbndreves  Ifland. Another a litde belovv Buda,
againft the wettfideof which flands JaW,extendingforty
mi les; and exceeds that of the Ifie of Mati,c ontaining many
Viilages in it; upon part whereof the Burkijb  Forces en-
camped,when they catnc to raife the Chriftiati  Siege at Bu¬
da,znA  was the great omillion and error of the Chriftiaris,
rhat they Fortified not in that Ifland.. Another, againfl
Mohatch:  another,about the entrance of the Dravtu:  and
anewonehard by Belgrade , tnade by the fetling of the
Šiit  or O uje  brought down by the Savm , and the Darnbe  ;
where thirty five years ago there was no face of an Ifland,.
but is now full of Trees ; how this may advantage, or dif-
advantage Belgrade , future times may fhew. But the
'Jur k s  are fofecure and fearlefs of any Forces, thatmav
ever hurt them in thefe parts, that they have no confidera-
tionof fuch things. And al'owing the Puver Le^tobe
the boundary of Jvflria,  the Ifland of Schut,  or Injula Ci-
tuorum  vvill prove moft corflderabie of any ; containing
many good Tovvns, as Gomora, Šamane n ; befides very
many Viilages. And pafling throiigh it, I found itwell
peopled, and ordered againfi incurfions; vvherein there
have been divers, formerly made by Bur k s , Bar tar s , and
Rebellious Forces.

No River whatfoever, fo far from its difcharge into the
Sea, affordeth more Naval Veflels of ftrength and fuffi-
■ ciency fbr Fight; nor hath any afforded the like fignai
engagements and encounters,at this diftance from the Sea.
The Emperour hath fome Veffels of War handfomly built,,
like Gadies at Vienna, Presburg,  and Gomora y  and an Jr-
fettal  for provifion of many, upon occafion. The Burk
at Strigonium , Buda, Belgrade,  and other places be—
low.,

At

C s )

At the Siege of Belgrade , sJftahmet  the great brotfght
„  . two hundred Ships and Galleys, vvell ap-
w un .:j,ory.  p QU p  t he ftreara. And the Hungarims

lent fo many down the ftreain, from Buda  , that,afcera
fliarp encounter, they took twenty of the Burkijh  Veffels,
and forced the reft on fhoar, near the Čamp; fo that, to
prevent felling into the Enemies band, VMahomet  vvas
fain to caufe them to be fet on fire. The Chrtfiiam  had a
great Fleet at the Siege of Buda,  vvhen al!
m !jh j/ij!cry.  m ;y carr  j ec [ unc j er  Connt Regenfdorff.  For the

LIiflory delivers, that the Cbrijlian  FJeet confified of four
andtwenty Galliots, about fourfcore finali Pinnaces, and
litcle Jefs then an hundred Ships of burthen, and other
great Boats. By the help of fuch Naval Veffels Wolfgan -
gus Hodder dld  a good piece of fervice, vvhen Seljman
befieged Vienrn; for he  came out of Breshurg  with armed
Veffels, and-funk the Veffels Cent  from Buda  with the great
Ordnance, to 'batter the Walls of Vienrn.

And as this Country aboundeth in Rivers, fo is it not
Vvithout fomenotable Lakes, as the Lake B alat on  or PUt-
fee,  or Volcaa  of Old, extendinga great length betvveen
Fejprinium  and the Dravm , with fome ftrong Forts tipen
it.’ This Lake put a ftop untothe cruelty of Seljman %
Souldiers, who deftroyed ali from Buda  unto the Lake
Balaton.  Andfince it lyeth on the Eaft of the River Lejta,
we may alfo reckon in the Nevefidlsr  Sea, a pleafant Lake
feven German  miles Iong, and three broad: fo called from
Nevefidel,  a finali Town, of one ftreet and fome backvvard
Houfes, vvith a finali fquare Cafi le npon an Hill by it,
from vvhence I had a good profpeft over ali the Lake.
In the Counnotions of Botfcaj , fourteen Villages about
this Lake wer@ burnt, by Burk s , Bartars , and rebellious
Hejducks.  The Hungarians  call it ferteu^nd P linj, Peifo.

It is in the middie way beiween Vienna  and Sabaria,  the

birth-

birth-place of Saint Martin.  The long extended plain
of Fampus,  in Faraguap m ^America,  exceedeth ali others,
as being two Thoufand Miles in Length. And I have
heard tliat fatnous Navigator Captain Narborough  fay,who
not long fmce, was Commander of the Srveepfiakes  ; and
made a Voyage in her into the South-Se a ;  that there is
ali lovv Land from the River of Fiate,  unto the rniddle
of the Srraightsof Magellan. Mofcovia  and F o land  have
long Plaines, but ntany of thent Woody, and obfcured
by Trees; but none more open and clear plains then
this Country. The greateft Plains I have obferved in
England , are thofe of Salisbury, Lincoln,  and JSl  ew-Mar¬
ket.  But thefe are but long Walkes, cotnpared with
thofe of Hungarj •,  and are exceeded by the plaines of
Aufiria,  from Vienna  unto Mount Simmeren , unto the
Borders of Styria.  And though the Upper Hungary  be
Hilly, andplentiful inWood; yet are there large Plains
belotv. I Travelled from Vienna  to Belgrade , about four
hundred Miles, upon continued and not interrupted
Plains; which often appeared like the Sea, vvithout any
vifible Eminencies, only a fh ort and plain Wood, by
Bacna,  and Shilberg,  beyond Dotit ; and if we reckon
the full of this Plain, it will prove much longer exten-
ding from Mount Kalenberg  or Cetin s , two German
miles weftward of Vienna  and fo beyond Belgrade , ftill
along the Northfide of the Danube,  unto the Borders of
Walachia  ; which will make alarger extent, than the fa-
mous long Walk from jfgra  to Labor  in India.  This
plainnefs of the Country, affordeth an handfome way of
Travelling in open Chariots, carryingone or twoMen
with a Charioter, dravvn by two or three, fometimes
four Horfes of a Breaft • and room enough to lye down.
In this manner I travelled front Buda  to Belgrade,  over
fair large Plains; and many miles upon Green-Swarthe,

C and

C IO )

and unworne wayes ;  erpecially in the County of Sir-
mium  or Schremnia,  as they nowcall it.

No Country hath fj large a fhare of Capital Cityes
upon the Danube ; for whereas from the courfe thereof
from Ulme  unto Belgradc , thereare reckoned Ten very
confiderable ones, there are no lefs then four thereof,
that is Prefourg , Strigonium , Buda,  and Belgrade  ac-
counted unto Hungary,  and Buda,  witb the.addition
of Pejl,  on theotherfide the water, feemes to be the Jar-
geft of them ali; and I believe the largell: alfo of any up-
on that St-ream.

Andasthis Country excelleth in River s, fo  rsitvery
abundant in Fifoes.  The Tibifcus  or Teijfe,  is efteemed the
moft Fifhy Riverin Furope,  ifnot in theWorid; info-
much, that they have a cominon faying, That it confifieth
of tvoo parts of Water  , and one of Fifo.  And the River
Bodrack  which rtinnes into the Tibijcus,  not far from To-
kay,  is forepleniflhed with Fifo,  that in the Summer when
the River islovv, thePeopIe fay theWater fmellsof Fifh.
And this is no fmall River , but as I had the aceount
from a Commander, who purpofely made it forme when
he pafTed it, was thirty Fathoms broad, and
eight and an half deepjmt beingofthis Figure
it could not be well Fifhed vvith Netts.Which
exceeding fertility if any will aferibe unto Saline Tin*
čtures, both of its own ftream, and others acceffionary
into it, which lick the many natural Salt*Mines iinder
ground, and fo may carry fome principles of fcecundity
vviththem, it may admit of confideration. The Danube
aboundeth inmany good Fifoes:  as Trouts, Ferches,  large
anddelicious Carpes,  exceeding any I have feen; andbe-
fides many others, a Fifh called Coppen , a kindeof Car
pito  ; a Bife h  me,  or kind of Lamprey  ; a Grundel , or
fpotted kinde of Cobites,  with fix Beards , two fhort,

* and

C n )

and four longer; a large Fifih much exceeding a Pike y
called Scheyden,  a Silurns Gefneri:  and above ali, there
is atfome feafonsgreat floreof Hufines , called by them
Haufons:  vthereof fome are twenty foot long ; efteemed
a very gOod difli, and fomevvhat like Sturgeon . There are
Tet Fifhing-places and Store-houfes upon thefideof the
Danube  ; vvhereof the higheft is above Gomora,,  upon
Schut-l(land , butthe greateft Fiihingis about Kilta,  in
JValachia;  wherethey falt them, and fend them into other
parts; they come out of the E uxine Sea.

As the Rivers are full of Fift , fo are they covered
\vith Kovale,  in the Winter; Svoans  I obferved none in
the Danube,  but niany other Fowles; and fome Pelicans,
not far from Eelgrade.

As the Waters are alfo fruitful in Fifh,  fo the Land a-
boundeth in other Provijtons  ; and very eminently in the
two fupporters of Life, B read  and Wine :  their Bread is
hardly eKceeded by any in Europe ; worked up and
kneadcdvvith long continued labour;and fomadelight,
vvholefome, and well tafted ;  and at fo cheap a rate,
that for two penceas much is afForded there, as twelve
pence with us in England.  Andindeed in ali the Turktjh
Dominions,  \vhere I travelled, I met with fo good and
well tafted Bread, that with Wine, it was to me a Feaft ;
and with Watera fufficient Repaft. Grape s  they have
very delicious and large; thofeat Virovichitz,  by Vacia,
are of eminent Note, Wines  alfo of a generous and noble
fort,the Wines of Tokay  are highly efteemed; the Sirmian
Winesare very rich and pleafant, in the South part of
Dungarj : in which Province, the Emperour Probus  is
faid' to have planted Vines , about Mount jHmus,  or Ir-
pataro.  In many other places theWines arevery noble ;
and fome brought unto Vtenna ,where there are above thir-
ty forts of Wines to be fold,brought from feveral part?.

C 3 , And

( 12  )

Andasthe ground is not unfruitful in itsovvn nature,
fo tbey are not without the pra&ife of Gopd-Husbandry ,
both in their Arable,and Pafture Grounds : efpecialiy in
Kpper-Hungarp,  and parts not fubjeded to the Turks.  I
being there, about the end of Febrtmj,  faw every night
ali the Country about us on Fire ; occafioned, by bur¬
ni ng the Stubble and Grafs and Hearbs; which af-
tervvards, arofe vvith p!enty again. They ufe not
Barnes, or Stacks of Corn ; but have many deep
and large Caves under Ground , wherein they lay it up
fafe, both from Robbers and fudden incurfion of Ene-
mies. At Clefch  near toopokhm , when the 'turks  and
Tartars  made their Inroades in the laft Warrs, the Peo-
p!e retired,and hid themfelves infuch Cavities; but fome
turks , fpeaking S chhvoman , told them that. the Coaft
was clear, and the Enemy gone; and fo teinpting  them out
of their Holes, they were unfortunately deceived into
Captivity, and carried away into remote Countreys,.
never to be heard of again.

There is alfo great p!enty of Deer, Hares,  ali forts
of Foultrey , Fartridges , and Fhcefants) great  flore of
Sheep ;  vvhichin divers places, have Iong Spiral Horns,
and very long curled Wooll. And Qxen  in great num-
bers, vvhereof tis thought they fend an hundred thou-
fand yearlyinto ltdy, Germnny r  and other parts; and it
is commonly faid, they have enough, toferve a great
part of tur op c.  They are of a kind of Moufi-
cclour ; and the Fujlern Cempomy  at Viennti  hath the pri-
viledg to bringthem, to furnifh that City. There are
alfo Buffelos , whereof theyirakeno finali advantage, in
ploughing of their Lands, efpecially in fome ftifif
Grounds, where they rnvift elfe ufe five Yoaks of Oxen  to
a Plough ; and one in tny coinpany told me that he had
becn fain to make ufe of fix Buffatis , to dravv a light

G&llechc }

C 13 )

Calleche  , or Chariot through fome Grounds. Not far
fro mBotefech,  there are Harfe s  alfo inverygreat num-
ber, fomelarge, many butfmal!, yetfwift. IfawaThcm
fandof them belonging tothe Peafaiits at Sene, Sene,  or
Senu, a Village upon the Dambe,  inthe Contribution
Country, not farr froni Centar a.

As they exceed in many things, fo they are peculiar
in fome othersj particularly in their Language, wh\ch  is
ptoper to themfelves, and different from any other. I
wentto aChurchat Bitchka,  where the Minifter prayed
and Preached ; and though there were a very good Lin-
guiftwith me, who fpake Schlavonian , German, Turktfh,
Vulgar Greel^,  and ltalian ; yetcould he make nothingof
it, or find affinity in it , with any other Language he
knew.A Specimen hereof is fet down by Megiferus , of the
Lords Frayer,  in that Language. Mi Attyanck Ky vagy
az> meniegbe, megh Szentel Teffeck az te neveed,
Inthe like maraierwe were confounded by the Language
of Albania,  on' the Northward part of Efirus , and weft
of Mače doni a.  We made ufe of fomeof that Countrey
in paffing the Mounrains, who were able to fpeak fome
Schlavonian : But as for Albanefe , or their ov/n Language,.
wherein they were delighted to fing Pay and Nighr y
as they travelled with us,, our beft Linguifts, bot h,
Turk s,  and Chriftians,  underftood nothing of it.

In fome parts of Hangary , many fpeak Schlavo¬
nian  , at Freiftat,  which the Hungarians  call Colgotz.
I obferved , that at the Church, the Sermon was in;
Schlavonian  ; but at. the Francifcans  Church in Hunga-
rian.  This incommunication in Speech r  makes them to
kara other Languages, and efpecialiy the Latin,  vrhich
very great numbers fpeak , efpecially the Gentrj  and'
Souldiers , and I fcarce met with any elfevvhere , who>
fpake it more ready, then the Noble GraffSacchy , Gover-

C 3 nour

C r 4  )

TiGur of Doris,  and his Lieutenant Elvedy.  I have alfo
met vvith Coachmen , Watertnen, and mean Perfons,
who could make themlelves nnderftood therebv,

The Larin-Bongue  is very ferviceable in Hungaria  and
Tranfplvania :  But below Belgrade  of little help unto a
Traveller, where that farr extending Language, the Scbla-
<vonitw ,  prevaileth. And indeed, vvith the helpof tv. o
Languages, German,  and SchUvonian,  a man may make a
fhift to Travel from Hamburg  to the Borders of Tartarj?,
and to Conftantimple.  And I have heard that the SchU¬
vonian  a'one. is underftood from <$JHccke/berg  in Germany
to the Cafpian Sea.  And before we come to Belgrade,
the Schlavonian  enters again ;  vvhich is alfo fpoken in
Ser vin, Bulgaria, Romania,zr\dd.  greatpart of Macedonia\
and in fo many other Countreys, that vvith this Language
a Man may make a fliift to be underdood from the J-
driatick-Shore  of Dalmatia,  unto the Tartarian Ocean . For
we read in Bureku ,  that when the Hollanders  returned
From Nova ZembU ;  the Inhabitants not very far ofFcould
fay, Dobre,  and Nich Dobre  ; that is, Goo d,  and not Geod ;
vvhich are exprefiions of approving  dr difapproving,  in the
Schlavonian  Language.

The Furkijh  Power fo much prevailing, or threatning
in thefe Parts ; it is in vain, to exped any great Umverjity
beyond Vienna.  Nor do I find that there hath been
any very confiderable ones in this Coantrey ; and though
they havehad many Bijhops, and learned men; yet they
have had theirEducation many of themout of Hungary.
As  had alfo of old St. Jerome  and St. Martin.  And the
prefent Hungarians ,  vvhich addift themfelves unto
Learning , efpecially thofe of Quality, do commonly
Study at Vienna , Prague ,  or BreJIavo ; a fmall llniver-
fity, or publick Study there is at prefent at Schem -
nitz.

But

C 15 )

But the Hungarims  may juftly boaft of early belps mi=
tolearning, andavery N ob: e Library,  Ere&edat Buda,
by their King Matthias Corvims,  Son of the famous
Hunniades , about two hundred years ago; confifting
of fome thoufands of Books, efpecia!Iy Greek  and La¬
tine  Manufcripts, not to be met vvith, or Purchafed elfe-
where; partvvhereof vvasdifperfed into th z Eur k if h Do¬
miniraš  , when Solyman  furprized that City; and a
choicepart thereof procured aftervvards, forth elmpe-
nal Librarg , at Vienna , when Cujpinianus  was Keeper
thereof, divers whereof are marked vvith the Armes of
Corvims , a Crovo bearing a Gold King inhis Eeak ;  which
with many fucceeding additions, made by Bufeeqims ,
Wolfgangus, Laz,ius , Fugger , and others ; together vvith
the choyceft Manufcripts  , brought from the Jmbrajian
Library  near Infprucb,  b y  the Learned Let rus Lambe-
cius , theprefent Library Keeper, make up the fourfcore
thoufand Volumes, now contamed in the Emperours Libra-
'ry  at Viennafsj  the Efpecial favour of which worthy Per-
fon, I had the honour,not cinlv to fee many of the choyceft
and moil fpecious thereof together with many Noble
Rarities in that plače; but to have any ufeful Bookunto
my private Lodgings. And at my coming away, he gave
me a C at doga e  of fome hundreds of JAchjmical Manu¬
fcripts , which arein that Library, which I prefented to
the Royd Sockty,  frotn him ; vvith leave to have any of
them brought into England , or to be Tranfcribed at Vi¬
enna,  if they pleafed. And if the threemoft admirable
Erafs Statua’s  which were placedat theentranceof Ccr-
vinus  his Palače in Buda,  had not been carried away by
Solyman , and caft into Ordnance , at Confiantinople ; it is
not improbable, they had been by this time at Vienna ,
about four hundred Books, theReliques and refufe of the
Library at Buda,  werelately remaining there; where it

(Ib)

was no eafie matter, to have a fight of them ; yet fo
carelefly kept by the Turks,  that WormeS, Mice and
Ratts were like to have the fpoil thereof. ButtheHre
at Buda  1669, hathnow confumed them ali.

And as their Language is peculiar, Ib is the opinion of
-their Crown ; of which they have the greateft efleem of
any other Nation. Thisthey commonly believe, tobave
been brought by an Angel from Heaven unto St. Stephen
their King : And have fo high an eftimation thereof, that
they think, the rightand fate of theKingdom goeth vvith
the pofTeflion thereof Which makes them very wary
in the cuflody of it, and in ali adverfities to fecure
it. And the Turk  hath been alwayes induftrious to ob-
tain it. Itwas formerly kept in the Caftle of Vicegrad;
butatprefent in that of Prefburg.

Andthis opinion isprobably fbunded upoa theTra-
fm/aout dition or Stor y, how  they came unto it; whieh
Olcrometus.  is thus Delivered. King Stephen  intending to
fettle the Chriftian Government in his King-
clom , appointed two ^/rch-Bifiops Sees ; Strigonium ,
whicb was the plače of his Nativity, and Colocza  ; and
fene jfjlricus  Bifhop of Colocza  to the Pope, to confirm
the farne, together withhis Kingdome, and tofend hima
Crown , and other Royal Ornaments. At the lame time
itfell out, that Mifca,  King of Polonia,  fent about the
farne Errant: and a Crown was providing for him. But
Pope BenedhT  the Eighth, in themean time was warned
byan Angelica \Jpparition,  to fend theCrown unto King
Stephen',  wbichaccordingly he did,whichprobablybe-
got that great Veneration and high Opinion, they have e-
ver linče had of it.

TheCrown it felf is alfo lingular in its Fafhion and
Figure ; for it is a low Crown, with a Crofs upon it, with
four Leaves or Turnings up about it \  one whereof is as

large

C 17 )

large as the other three, at leaft as two theredf. It  is no
eafiefavour toobtain a view of this Crown at jP resburg,
biit I faw a model of it in the Treafure of the piefent
Emperour Leopolda ; vvhich vvas a Crown of Gold, a-
dorned with many precious Stones, exačtly made after
the faihionof the Hangar im  C-rown> and perhaps richer
tban the exemplar.

Though the Hungartms  want not Ingenuity, Induftry,
and fufficient parts for Learning, and liberal Arts; yet
have they been more addičted unto itMartial affairs , than
unto deep Learning : Even the Bijhops  and Clergy-wen
proving ftout Souldiers ; and no lefs than fi'x Bijhops  were
fiain, with. their King Ludevictes,  in that fatal Battle of

oJMobatch.

Some report, andothersbelieve, that the faraon s Poet
Ovidd  yedandwas buried in Hangary  at Sahari a , feated
at the confluence of the Rivers Guntz,  and Regnitz  be-
fore they run into the Rab.  Where it is reported, that
he having been banifhed unto Tomos,  near the Euxine Sea,
was at laft recalled, and in his return towards ltaly  dyed
at Sabaria.  Where ’tis faid hisTomb was found with
this Epitaph,  made by himfelf;

Hic Jitus ejl Vates, quem Divi  Caefaris (ra
Augufti, patrid cedere jttffit burno*

Sape mifer veluit patriis occumbere terris,

Sed frufird , hunc illi fata dedere locum.

Before I came into Hungary , I obferved no ihadotv
©rfliewof the old Pyrrhical Sati at ion , or Warlikeway
of Dancing, which the Heyducks  pra&ife in this Country.
They dance with naked Swords in their hands, advancing,
brandifhingand clafhing the farne •, turning, winding, ele-
vating, and depreffing their bodies with ftrong and a<ftive

. D motions ;

C 18 )

motions; finging withal unčo their meafures, after the
manner of tl Greeks.

The mighty Ads of ^Attila,  King of thisCountry, to-
gether with the numerous Forces he brought out of thefe
and the neighbcruring parts, are very remarkabie ; vvhere-
by he over-ran a coniiderable part of Germany,  and a
great part of ltaly:  Sacked and burnt ^Acfuileia ; and
fought that memorable Battel with zALtim  the Koman
General, in Campks Catalo nicis,  near Tholoufe;  wherein’tis
faid were ten Kings  prefent, and about two hundred
thoufand fiain: and, which isalfoobfervable, the Gene-
rals on both fides were of thefe parts ; for
jom.tr Jes.  a  JTunne  , and zALtitu  a Mafan,  or

Servian , of the neighbour Country. And in fucceeding
ages, how far and widely the Kings of Hungary  enlarged
their Dominions, befides many HidoricaJ Account s, is
teftified at their Coronation, by ten Banners  carryed by
Great perfons: wherein were reprefented Ten Province s
of that Kingdom ; »that is, Hungaria, Dd-
matia , Croatia, Schlavonia, Galtjia , Rafcia ,
Servi.a,Bulgaria,Bcfnia,  and LudomirJa.

This Country hath given the Iongeft Rop  unto the
Turkifb  Conquefts, and farther intrulion into the VVeftern
parts of Europe.  For raoft, vvhich they have already ob-
tained, hathbeenupon the advantageof the Hungarian
E-ivifions, and their own fubtilty and falfe praftifes; and
Solymm  , by fuch falfe and low dealings, furprized the
Capital City of Buda.  Andalthough the Turk  hath now
obtained the beft part of the Country, yet almoft a third
part remaineth out of his power, and inobedience to the
Emperour, as King of Hungaria : as almoft ali Upper
Hungary , from Bresburg  unto Tekaj,  and Zatmar.  And
there are yet out of their hands the three notableft Bul-
warks of Chrijiendome  ; Rab, Kmara y  and Heopldjladt ;

ali

Monfieur de
Tumu.

C 19 )

ali which I had the advantage to fee. This laft bath
been ere&ed fince the lofs of Nervhevofell  ; and made
much after the farne manner; confifting of fix regular
Bafiions revefiues.  It is feated on the Weft ftde of the
River Waag,  over againft Freijladt , not far from the plače
where the Tartars  pafled over in the laft War, and de-
ftroyed a great part of the Country, and carryed away
many Captives from thofe parts, 'and out of Moravia.
This Fortification was begun in theyear 1665, and was
well advanced, but not finifhed when I was there, 1669.
Count Seuches  the younger was then Governour thereof;
from vrhom I receivedgreat Civility in that plače; and
a Guard of Foot Souldiers, to convoy me through the
Contribution Country , tovrards Schemnitz, , Cremnitz
and the other Mine-Towns.

Many Koman Emperours  have honoured thefe Quarters
vvith their pr elene e, birtb, death, or great A&ions. For
( to omit Trajan , Caracalla , Galienm, Conflantim , and
many more) the Emperours jdureliamu, Frobus, Gratianus
had their Nativities at Sirmium \  and Claudius Gothicus
dyedinit, ornearir. Joviams,  and Valenti ni anus  vrere
born in Fannonia. Ingemus , Governour of Fannonia ,
was faluted Emperour by the Mcejian  Legions. Vetranio
1  ikewife, in the farne Country. And at Sirmium  was held
a General Gounfel, when Fhotinus  was Bifhop of that
plače.

The Koman  Armies being much in this Ccuntry, No
wonder it is, that fo many Coynes  of Cefper , Gold , and
Silv er  are to be found in it : Whereof I obtained no
finail number at Fetronell,  or Old Carnuntum,  which v, as
apartof Fannonia.  And at Sene , or Senia , fcituated
near the Danube,  I met \vith very many. They are alfo
to be found at Old Buda,  or Sicambria  ; at Old Sirmium,
in the Country now called Scbremnia;  at Murfa, or Fjfeck ,

D 2 and

( 20  )

and many other parts. An Jlrmenhri Merchant, in vrhofe
Houfe I lodged at Belgrade,  undertook to provide me
\vith Koman  Coynes againft my return: which he might
well do about thofe parts, as at Sirmium 3  Samandria , and
other places.' And not far frotn thence Lyjimachm, King of
Macedon  and Thrace,is  conceived to have kept his abode at
a Caftle or Pallace near Deva;  wherethat unparal!ei’d
rnafs of Gold ^Medals  was found, as is particularjy de-
iivered by Monfeuv Fumee-,  in his account of the Wars
of llungarj.

Near the Town of Deva ovDevas , was found great
flore of Treafure , by the Peafants of the Country, under
an Ancient Caftle or Palače, ali ruined and decayed.

■ The Rain continuing a long time, and the Water running
with a forcible curren t, there. was difcovered aninfinite
cosnpany of Golden Medals  : tipon one (ide of  whichwas
Coyned the Image of Ljfimachtee,  on the other fide a
Viftory; everyone\veighingtwoorthreeCrawns. The
Storm and rage of water being paft, and the Sun fhining
otHhefe, made a marvellous glittering; which perceived
by the Peafants, they remained ravifhed with joy; and
taking thetn up, they alfo found a Golden Serpent:  which
afterwards General Cajialde  fent unto Ferdinand,  with
a part of thefe Ancient Medals.  This being an ancient
euftome with thofe, who buryed their Treafure, to plače
Serpents  there, in tokenof a Faithfu! keeper. After the
Peafants had taken, no man knew what; others toak from
thence more than twenty thoufand Ducats.  And the
. report was, that they might have taken an hundred thou¬
fand. Fdr that had fometimes been the abode of King
Lyjimachi&.  Whereof Ferdinand  had a thoufand , and
Cajialde  three hundred. Which Coyn remained in this
plače from Lgfimachies s  time. Atnong other notable An-
tiouities, there were alfo found two Medals of Gcld,  the

one

( 21  )

oneof Ninttt,  theother of Semiramis^  which were fent
to the Emperour Charles  the Fifi h.  And there was not
any man in ali that Province, of vvhat Authority orrepu-
tation foever, who had not forne of thefe JMedals:  fo in-
finite was fouhdthis funvtobe.

In the Old Roman  Towns, through vvhich I paffed,
the people, upon notice given, wouldbring vvhat Coyns
they had, ca 1 led by them Heathen-monp.  In the C ou fi¬
tnes of Servis,  and Bojna,  the Irme nians  and Je ves  make
Collečtions, and fend them to Raguji  , from vvhencethe
greateft part is carryed into ltaly.  J mufi; not omit one
Copper  Coyn of the Emperour Julim PhiUppus,  vvhich I
found common in thofe parts , and very rare inothers; it
hath on the Obverfe, the head of Phihppm , with this
Infcription: IMF . C. M. JUL. PHILIPPUS JUG .
on the Reverfe, a Womm  bet ween a Lyon  and a Buli,  vvith
the Infcription: P. M. S. COL. VIM. AN. Vil  • vvhich
may be Provinci<e Moejle Superioris ColoniaViminacittm
Annonci Septimo dat a.

Viminacium  was a Roman  Co!ony in Mcsfia  Superiour,
no tv Ser vi a;  andconceived to be Singidunum,  or Sende--
rin,  upon the Danuhe,  at the entrance of the River Mof-
chiusot Morava \  by the Lyon  andthe Buli,  might bede-
clafed thtgoodnefloš  the Soyfi  fit for Agriculture, and the ■
Valour  and courage  of the people; and by thofe fierceA--
nimals fitting fo quietly together, that, by the prudence
of Philippui , Agriculture  went on, and none found oppo-
fition from the Ljon,  or force of others.

Innom Septimo Jata  ; The feventh time of thediftribu-
tion of Cern  under Philippsss.  The, Legio de cima fext a
frumentaria  , which was quartered in that plače, having
the Cbarge of the conduffing  thereof *> as the Learned
Trifian  hath conjedured.

This

( 22  )

This is the habit ofan Hungurun , which isfoundto
befbfit and convenient for ali Tort of exercife, efpeci-
ally on Horfe-back, and in War, that it is made ufe of
alfo by the Crontims, Schlavonians,  and other Nations,
and by the Turks  themfelves who live near the Frontiers;
although otherwife they feldome change their own habits.
The HungArims  delight moft in Colours, wearingblew,
yellow, green, and purple CIoth ;  and it is rare to fee any
one in black; the Priefis themfelves being habited in long
Purple Garments.

A


c 23 r

FR O M

V I E N N A in  Auftria,

T O

L a r 1 s s a in  Theflalia.

Aving paffed the Winter in the Imperial¬
en of VIE N N A , I took a Journey
in to Hungary,  to vic w the Copper, Silv er,
and Gold  Mineš in thofe parts. And not
long afier, although I had alreadj had a fair
fightof lulj,  I made a Journey unto VENI  C E,  paiTing
through Jujlru, Stpna, Carmthia, Car niola ,  and V nuli ;
and foon after my return toVienm,  I met with an oppor-
tunity, which carryed me unto the Ottomm  Court, which
then, and a iong time before, refided at the famousOld
City of LA RIS SA irtThejfalp  You are not to expe&
theNamesof ali places, vvhich I paffed 5 ,yet divers you
will find mentioned, which are not to be found in Mapps;
except youhave fome more exad, than any I have met
with.

Betvveen Vienna  and Rreshurg , above the confluence of
the RiverMarck  with the Dambe,\  could not but take no¬
tice of the Town of Retronell, zndHapmhirg  Hill and Ca-
ille. Vetronell  is conceived to have been Old CarnuntumpL
ftrongHoldof th e Pamonuns,  invain attempted-by the
Rmms , an hundred and feventy years before the Incar-

nation :

C 24 )

nation; but was afterwards fubdued, in the time of Ju-
gujlus,  tnade a Roman  Co!ony, and the Station of the
Legio decima quarta gemina r  and the Claffis IJlrica ; and
in procefs of time foenlarged, that it became the chief
City of Famonia  Superior, and comprehended that tračt
cn the South bank of the Danube , vvherein now ftand
Hajrmbvrg,  Dutch Altenburg,  and ^t.Petronell.

f had been formerly at Fetronell ., to inform niy felf in
the nobie Ruines and Antiquities thereof; where I met
with variety of Me da Is ^ Infcrjtions,  rcma i nders of a nobie
Aquxdu£b,  and the Remains of a goodly Fabrick, vvhich
I thought might be theruineof a Temple of Januš,  but
it is conceived to have been aTriumphal Arcb, eredled in
nlemory of a great Vičtory over the Fannonians , and Dal-
matians , by Tiberiu *, in the Ninth year of our Lord.
My nobie Frien d,Petrus Lambecius,  hath fet forth the Fi¬
gure of  one fide thereof fin the Second part of his De -
fcription ef the Imperial Librarj/, )  and of the back part
I tookadraught my felf. This, and other Carmmtine
Antiquities tnay be feen in the farne Author; and more may
be expe<Tted, when that Worthy perfon fhall pleafe to
publifh his Carnuntum redivivum.

In this plače, the Emperour Antonlnm Fhilofophus , in
order to his Wars vvith the <tMarcomanm ,now Moravuns ,
refided the fpace of three years, and dyed at Vindobona ,
now Vietma:  and here Severu*  was eleded Emperour by
čhe German  Legions. But this nobie and Ancient City
wasruined, in after-times, b y Attila  the Himne , in his
Incurfions into thefe parts: Yet there are ftill remaining
many marks of its Ancient greatnefs. And though grafs
now groweth where Old Garnuhtttm  flood; yet by an
obfervingeye,the Foundationsof their Houfes,and their
Streets are irill difcoverable: and fuch great quantities
<©fR<w^Coyns have been of a long time, and are ftill

found

'C 25 )

fcund there, that the Boores  are comrnon ly well lurnaihed
vviththem; of whoni 1 purchafed a great number: and
Mr. DoneUan,  an Irijh  Gentleman, who thentravelled wirh
me, and was walkingin my company, viewing thele Old
Remainsof former greatnefs, by chance ftrook with his
foot a Silver  Coyn out of the Earth.

Eresburg , E o foni tm, Eifonium  , and by fbme thought
to be Flexum , is a pleafant City feate d on the Northfide
of the Danube , ten German  mile s Eafhvard from Vtenna,
the chief City of Hungaria , in the Imperial Dmnmons
thereof; fincethe lofsof Buda,  the plače of Convention
for the EJlotes : and fince the lofs of Strigomum, the Me¬
tropolitan Citjr.  The City  is pleafant; the Cajlle  is ftately,
beautiful, and well fcituated; vvherein is kept the fo
highly efteemed Crown of Hmgarp , commonly believed
to have been brought by an Angel  from Heaven, unto St.
Stephen  their King; and is of a different figure from other
Crowns. The Garden  of the Jrch-Bifhop  is very fair|
the Walks,  the Grottd s, the figure of Jeronimo , the La¬
bi r?ntb , Fijb-pmds, and Fountains  areNoble. In the D me,
or Gothe dr d Ghurch,\ytth  the Body of St. Johannes Elee-
jvofymrius,  Bifliop of Alexandria.  The Jefitits  have a part
of the farne Churcb, and a noble Apothecaries  Shop,full of
Raritie*. The Luther ms  have alfo a fair Church  here.

Rab, or Javrimm,  a Gity  feated at'the confluenceof
the Rivers Rab, Rabnitz,,  and the Danube : and a ftrong
FrontierBulvvark againft the Turk.  It hath two Bridges,
one over a double Ditch, leading towards Aujlria;  and
anot her towards Albo RegdU,ox Stullrveiff inbttrg.  11 ha th
feven large BaJBons , and four Cavalliers,  or highMounts,
which over-Iook them. The fifft is the Caftle BaJUon ,
upon which lfands the Caftle or Palače of the Governour.
The fecond is the Water Boji ton,  lying tovvards. the D amile.
The third is the Baftion of the holy Hill , under which when

E the

- c 26 J

the Tur k s  fprang a mine,aHorfeman was bIown ofF from the
top of it into the Dambe , without any hurt to himfelf or
his horfe; thefourth is the middle Baftion, tovvards the
Land Eaftward. The fifch is the ne\v Baftion,the fixth is the
ImperialljOr Emprefie Baftion; and the feventh is the Hun-
garian  Baftion, lying next the River jft«/>,where the Turkijh
Governour was killed when theTownwas furprifed in the
nigftt by the Chriftians.The Country is ali p'aia about,and
there isnothing vvhich feeins to command it, buta  finali
Hill at fome diftance , vvhich is undermined, and m'žy be
blovvn up upon any occafion •, beyond vvhich there is alfo
a Tovver or Spy in the open Fields , to difcover thcap-
proach of the enemy. It was belieged by Sinan Baffa  , in
the raign of Sultan Amurah  the third ; where he laft ma-
ny men , and at one aftfault twelve thoufand; but at laft
was furrendred, by  the treachery of Count Hardeck ,
the Governour; vvhich coft him his headat Vienna..  In a
few years after, it was recOvered, by a notable furprife,
aftedby Count Srvartzenburg  , and Count P alfi,  vvitha.
great flaughter of the Turfis. I  faw a part of the Gate,
vvhich was then broken by a Petard,  the farne being ftill
kept fbr a memorial , in a part of the Cathedral Church.
While this plače was in the Turks  pofTeffion, they made
a Dungeon for Chriftian Prifoners, vvherein there is no
fight, but what enters by a Grate upon the ground in the
Market-place. But this is now feldome empty of Turks
begging the Charity of Paflers-by, and felling neat vvhtps
vvhich they make in this their fad reftraint.

He that wQuld take a view of vvarlike Engines and In-
ftruments, is not like to have better fatisfačiion any
where, then at Rab  and Kmara , vvhere he may take no¬
tice of one, called a morning Star, ufedby the Centinels,
and at an aflauk,  defenceof a breach, or entrance into a
Town i of earthea Bots to throw amongft theEnemies,fil-

led

(  27  )

led with fticking & burning materials. There he may alfo
fee a Lehn Brader, or plank fet with hooks: to be placed
on the out-fideof the works,covered lightly withearth;
whereby thofe', who ftorme are wounded, and intangfed.
A werf Kugel, or inftrument ftlled vvith wild-fire, and
combuftible matter, tobe thrown by thehand, it fticketh
faft and burneth. A Spmmfchc Ritter  or Cbeval de Frife ,
to be laid in the way, to keep out the Horfe j divers forts
of Chain-ihot, and the like.

General <tMontecuculi  was the Governour ofi?^,whofe
Paffe I had the advantage of in the former y ear, to travel
by thefe parts nnto the tnine-Towns. The Emperour be-
ing wearied with Chiaufes, andordinary Envoys, which
fo often catneto Vienm  from the Vifier of Buda.  > andex-
pefted prefents at ’ their return; hath taken order, that,
without efpecial Licence, they fhall come no further than
Raab , but there receive their difpatches.

Kmora,Gomra, Crumenum  or Comaronium , a large and
ftrong Tovvn at the Eaft-end of the Ifland of Schut , look-
ing over the Danube  and Waag,d rongly fortified, and well
mann'd. Colonel Heffkircher  was then Governour thereof,
the ftrongeft plače is the Tortoife  Fort; fb called, from
fome refemblanceit hath to a Tertoife.  This Tovrn, after the
takingof Retah 3  was befieged by Sinttn Bdffa,  with fixty
Ships, and a great numberof tur k s  and Tar tar s ;  but in
vain,and to the great flaughter of the j tartan.

In the inward Caftle I obferved thre old Tombs, vvhich
had been forinerly brought thither from Sene  or Senia , a
plače of Antiquity, not farr off. Some in the Caftlesob-
ferving me to write out their Infcfiptions , were very in-
qui(itive, and obl iged meto leavea copyof than in the
Caftle; and if,upon after-confideration,Ifhould find theni
to be of importance, required a promife of me, r ta fend
them an account thereof: The Infcriptions vvere thefe.

E 2 Ob

C 28 .)

On one of them

M EM O R I AE J V LIA E EM E R IT AE QV A E
' V,IXIT .AN^g&V ALERIAMASCLENIA
FILIAEPIISSIME
And on the. Cover
D M,

The Infcription n pon another was this,

M V A L V A L E R| A NI’L E G11I I F EVIXIT A N
XLII ETMVA  L V LPIO.EQJPVB L’ FILVIXIT.
A N V M -I SI M G O N DITI SV LPI A PAR AT I ANE
"M A  RI TO ETVLPIA VALERIAFI  L I A
ff REDESTS

D. M.

And onthe top or Cover, this follovving,

lTAAMrPl€Tf TX6lM6TATIAT P O C.’

The third Tomb was of the farne Figure, but withouc
any Infcription. I could not omit to fet down thefe, be-
eaufe they are not to be met with in that greal Volume of
Infcriptions of Grtrter.

Gomora  hathbeen of Jate more ftrongIy fortifed, and
-a greater compafs of ground is taken in, by a line drawn
from the Waag  to the Dambe.,  and fortified with four new
Baftions.

Of fome other places, near unto thefe already named,
and whereof I took notice the yearbefore, I fhall make

but

C *9  )

butfhort mention ; as particularly of Nervhevcfell, hy
the Hnngarians  called Vyvear , feated by the River Nentra ,
not farr frorn JSfitria , aftrong plače, and Bifhops See,
taken by Count de Souches  in thelaft warrs» Nervhdujl
is a ftrong hold,regu!arly fortified withfix large Baftions,
which makes it lye in the form of a Starr, it was furren-
dred after fix ftormes unto the grand Vijier ;  who prefent-
Jybelieged it, after that Count Forchatz , the Governour,
had ra£hly loft a great part of his men at the Battelof Bar-
chan  j where thebonesof theflavn lye yet in the Field.
The Turkifb Bajia.  liveth in the Palače, vrhich belonged to •
the Arch-bifhop of Frcsburg  , and hath converted the
Church- into a Mofihe/u  The Bafja  growing too familiar
with the neighbour Gaveitieiur of Kmar/t :was jealoufly
looked on by the Grand Signior , who fent one to take of
hishead, and put another into this Government. This
plače commandeth contributionfroin a good part of the
Country betvv«en the River H aag  andrhe Nentra. , and be-
tvveen the. Neutra,  and the River Grm  : and in plače s,,
where we lodged in thofe patts, the Mafter-of the houfe
told us, he was obliged to give notice unto the Turks , who,,
and how many were in his hou/e ;  vvhereof we were not
unwilling, refolving to be gone, before the account there-
of could come unto them. If the Vijier  had not fpent time
about thefiege of Nervhevejell , but tnarched into 'jfafititt,
when the Rinpereur was yet unprovided, the Auxiii'ary
forces farr off, and Vienm , and ali the Country about in
great fear, he niight haye probably left fad effe&s in thofe
parts ;  but attempting Tome time after, to break into Au*
Jirk  by Saint Godard , when the Imperial forces vere in
readinefs, and the great bodiesof Auxiliaries of Germms
and French  came up , hewas repulfed with great lofs of
his beft foldiers, and readily clapt up a peace, nhich hath
kept thefe parts in quieteverfince,.

C 3° )

Sene, S one  or Šema,  a Village near the Danube , and re<
markable plače fpr variety of Antiquities, vvhere, by the
help of the Byro  or Judg  of the Town, Imet with divers
Coy ns, and foni e of Gold, fome Intaglias,  and as tbey cal-
led it, a Heathen  or Roman  Key. Whereof I ptefented
fome unto Petrus Lambecm ,  vvho fliewed them unto the
Emperour. This plače, being i n the contribution Conn-
try to the Turk *, hath been little enquired into ;  and
therefore the Antiquities thereof were the more welcome„
Araongft ali the Infcriptions of Gruter , I find but one
or two of Senu.  The People fay, this plače was former-
ly called Apodonia,  but without any good ground.

PafTingfrom Raab  to Dot it , St. f^Martinsberg  offers it-
felf to vievv; an handfome Town, and ftronghold, upon
the top of a high Hill, over-looking ali the Countrv.

Dot is , Tata,  or Theodata  about tweJve Etsglijb  miles
from Gomora , where there is a Caftle with a Ditch about
it, and alfo fome Natural Bathes near it. It hath been of-
ten takenandretaken; Graff Zacki,  a Noble Hungarian ,
was then Governour i vvhofe fingular Civilities I muft
always acknow!edg ; and indeed in thefe parts, Iwas at
beft content in the company of Souldiers, for theycom-
mandedall, andwere generous and free-hearted Perfons,
and could cotnmonly fpeak either Latine, High-Dutcb , or
Italian ; my company was the more acceptable to them,
becaule I had feen many parts of Etorope  before, which
they would rnuch enquire after.

But to return into the road  again; vre parted from Como-
ra,  being towedby a Sttick  oftwenty four oares.The//«^-
rians  rowing upon onefide, and the Germans  on the other,
they faluted the Fortrefs with two fmall Guns , which
they carried at the headof the Sate k  > andfo vve pafled by
Sene, Nefmii, Rodtvan,  and came to Motcb,  the exaft plače
of the Frontiers. Here we;expe&ed a Turkijb  Convoy;

vvhich

( 3 1  )

which coming betimes in theraorning, vre tnade ready for
them; their Officers went firft on fhoare , then our Vej da.
or Vejuod  with the Interpreter, and chiefeft of the com-
pany, both partieswa!king ftowly, and at meetinggave
hands toone another, then we delivered our Boat unto
the Turks , vvhich they faftned to their SaicH , and fen tone
into our Boat to fteer it: and t urn ing about, faiuted the
' Chriftians with one Gun, and then with eighteenOares
rowed down the D muhe , we carrying the Eagle  in our
Flag,  they the Double Šavor d, Starr,  and Half-Moon.

The Turkifh S at c k  convoyed us to Strigonium  or Gran,
and fet our Boat on fhoar in the Town, and fo kfc us; the
Governour alfo took no notice of us, either in hopes of a
prefent, or fome private intereft, bnt an Jga;  who came
vvith four troops of Horfe from Neveheavfell , beingcorae
into the Caftle, asked the Governour (.as vre were inforni-
ed by a Turkjt hat cameunto us) what hemeaned to have •
fo little čare of his head, to deal with us after this man-
ner f  vvho were not fent to him , or to a Bajfa ,  or a Vijier,
but to the Sultan  , and no doubt had a Prefent for hira:.
whereupon we were foon  difpatched.

This City of G ran, Strigonium  or Ofircgon,  is feated on >
the South-fide of the Danube  near the Confluence with
the River Gr*#, divided into the upper and lower, and
both walled; the lower Wall  doth weli command the Da¬
nube  , St. 'Thomas Hill , hard by the Town, is alfo walled,
becaufe it cotnmandeth the Town, tfere are in this
plače Natural Bathes of a moderate heat. This hath been
the Metropolitan City of Hungarj,  where St. Stefhcn,  the
firft Chriftian King of Hungarj i  wasborn ; and King Ste-
fhen  the third buried.

Scarce any plače hathfufFered more ftrong and notabje
Sieges, befieged in vain by J^Kingof Hungarj,  taken by
Sdjmm,  recovered by Ccunt Mmsfelt  for mhiat

the

• : pCs? ! D

’ the Arch-Duke , befieged -again in vain , but taken in the
timeof Sultan Jcbmrt,  by the mutinous bafeRefs of the
Chriftian Defendants,who fhuttingup Count D amper  the
Governour delivered the plače unto jily-Beg  the Turkijb
General, overagainft Strigonmm  lieth Earcban,  between
two places there is a Bridge of Boats.

From Strigonium  vvepaffed to V.icegrade  or Vizzegrade:
The upperCaftle of this plače is feated upona very high
Rock, where the Crown of Hungary  hath been fonneriy
kept; the Jower Caftle hath beenfaire , there is alfo a
handfome Fabrick of fquare Stones, theruines vvhereof
do ftiil remain 3  this plače vvas retaken from the Turks  by
the forces of the Arch-Duke Matthias , in the time of Ma-
hemet  the Third, but betrayed , and delivered up by the
£reachery of the Iieyducks  in the raign of Sultan Jchmet,
Charles  King of Naples , and fworn King of Hnngary  v  was
wounded on the head by Ferchatz ;  and being carried in-
totheCaftle, under pretence of laying a pJafter on his
head, was ftrangledL

Over againft Vizzegrade  lieth <z3faroz,  where there is a
largeChurch; and the plače having voluntarily fubmit-
ted unto the lurks^  the Chriftians paying a finali Tribute,
live under no great oppreflion. Below this Tovvn , the
Dambe  divideth, and maketh a faire large Ifiand, called
St. Andrcrcs  Ifiand, ftllLrowing down, by which we paf-
fedby Virovicbitz,  a noted plače for pleafant Vineyards
and good Grapes, and an old ruine of Stone, upon the
ihoar of St. Andrervs  lile, vvhere the Turks  told us, there
was formerly a Stone Bridge, we came to Vacia,  formerly a
Bifiiops See, which hathnow two <tJ[Iosks,  and one Chri¬
ftian Church without the Wall. Here we changed our
Convoy again , and paffed unto Buda  , the Capital City,
and Royal Seat of the Kings of Umgaria , and therefi-
dence of a lurkijh Vifier who hath divers Bajfas  under

C 33 )

him. It isa large City, and of a pleafant fcituation; di-
vided into the upper and Iower Town, vvherein are fome
ruines, and reliques of Magnificent St rud n res, rais’d by
the Hungarian  Kings, efpecially Matthias Corvlnm,  vvhofe
Palače the Vifier  pofTeiled. But much abating ©f its an-
cientglory, there are alfo fome faire Mofches , Caravan-
fara’s,  and very Magnificent Batbes.  I obferved eight, and
bathed in fome of them ;  the moft Magnificent is the But h
of Velibej , very much beautified by Solyman;  having
four Cupotis , befides a very ftately one in the middle, fup-
ported by twelve large pillars. There is a high Hill, ca!-
led St. Jeromes  Mount,which hatha Fort on the top, and
over-looks the Town and Country.

The Germms  call this City Ojfett , and fome vvill have
it founded by Buda , brother of Jttila,  the famous Kingof
the Hurnes , it wascraftilyfurprized by Solynun\  who,
at his entrance, was marvellouflv taken with it, and be-
fieged finceby theChriftians, but withill fuccefs,ata lit¬
je di$ance, there isanother plače, called old O fen , con-
ceived to be Sicambria  of old, where the Sicambrian  Sonl-
diers quartered, in the time of the Romans :  and fome An-
tiquities and Infcriptions have been taken notice of  in
that plače.

O ver againft Buda,  upon the E afern-fjoare  of Dambita,
ftandeth the City Ref , being Quadrangular and feated
upon a Plaine: and by reafon of its Wall, and the Tovvers
of the <BMeskes,  maketh a handfome fhow from Buda.  It
giveth the name unto the County or Cemitatm Pefthienfs :
Hmgaria  beingdivided into Counties, like England
tvveen this plače and Buda , there is a handfome Bridg of
Boats, abote halfa mile long.

The habit of the Turkijh  women was new unto me:
Breeches almoft to their feet, a kind of Smock over them,
andthen a long Gown with their Head-drefs which fetch-

F eth

( 34  )

ethabout, covering their face, except their eys, and
makesthem looklike Poenitents: butit was not unplea-
fant unto me , as taking away the occafionof pride and
fo:ly: though othervvife it can have no good grace in a
Stiangers fancy.

During our Stay at Buda  , we went into a turkiJJj  Con-
vent, vvhere the Prior or Superior called Julpapa,  or Fa-
therof the Rofe , mith fome of his Brethren brought us in¬
to a plače like a Chappel, and entertained us with Melons
and fruit: at parting, vvegratified them with fome pieces
of 1x1 ver, whichwere kindly accepted. The Julpapa  had
his Girdle orCeinture emboffed before mith a mhitifh
Stone, bigger then the palme of my hand, mhich was a Ga-
laffites  or Milke-jlone  ; whereofthey have a great opinion,
becaufe in theirbejief, Mahomet  turneda whole River in
drabia  into this kind of Stone.

We iodged at an old Rafcians  houfe, where we mere well
accommodated ; having from it a faire Profpcdt over the
Danube , the long Eridge  and Fefl , and a good part of the
Country. Divers T 'uvkp,  and fome Chimjes  reforted unto
us, where they vvere treated to their content. The Mafter
of the Houfe was thought to hold fecret correfpondence
vvith a FranciJcanFritr  of Feji,  and togive intelligence of
Occurrencies unto the Minifters of State at Gomora , Rab ,
and Vienna ; he prevailed with me to pen a Letter in La¬
tine  and It dim;  vvherein I mas not unvvilling to gratifie
him, becaufe it contained nothing, befides anaccountof
fome prifoners, and the encroachment of the A rmcnian
Merchants upon the Trade.

As we were riding in theCity, divers of the common
turks  murmured, that we flionldride, vvhere they went on
foot. But I v/as pleafed to fee many turks  to falute Signor
Gabriel the Emperours Courrier, in our company, and to
take his hand, and put it to their foreheads, but mas rnuch

more

C 35 )

more delighted withthe courteous enter ta in of Mortizan
Efbendi , a perfon of note, and who hadbeen an Envoje
extraordinary at Vienna.  He received us in an handfome
large Room, and treated us with greatkindnefs ; faying,
thac hedeiired ourcompany, not toany Feaft , but to a
treatof affedtion and refpeft; fuchasmight declare, that
wehad converfed likefriends, andeat and drunk toge-
ther; he called for a ftool, that I might fet down, it being
then uneafie to me, to fetcrofTe-legged : and asked me,
vvhether I would learn the Turki/b  Language, or whether I
would go to the Port: and how I liked Buda , and among
other queftions, asked, what was the King of j Polanda
name ?  and when I told hira, Michael Wi[nowitski ; his re¬
pi y was fomewhat ftrange unto me; faying, ^Michael,
that J s a good name, that's the nameof thegreateft Saint in
Heaven, except Marie;  and fo having entertained us , he
difmiffed us with good vvifiies.

Leaving Buda , |we travelled by Land; and pafllng by
the ruines of the King of Hungaries  Mint-houfe, by Ham
Zabbi E alanka,  and by Er z, in,  we came to Jdom^mTurkiJft
Ezan Kurteran , or anima liber ata, fo  named by Sohman
the Magnificent; becaufe, in bis hafty retreat from Vien-
na ,he firft made a quiet Rop at this plače, and there could
think himfelf fecure from any purfuit of the Imperial
Forces. This plače was afterwards taken by F alfi,  from
thence wecame to Fentole  or Fentolen Falanka.  This or
Jdom  is conceived to be the old Fotentiana,  where the
Hunnes , invading thofe parts, fought a bloudy Eattel
with the Romans , under theconduftof <HMacrinm  and Te-
trkm , but were overthrown.

From hence to Fodrvar,  in fight of Cdecza;  feated on
the other fide of the Danube , in the road to temefivar,
formerly an Arch-bifhops See *, whereof Tmorem  was
Bifhop, whofe rafhnefs eonferred much unto the loffe of

F 2 Hangar

C 36 )

Hungaria, at  tke,Battel of Mohatz. So  by JBax  or paxi
un:o To In a  , formerly Altinum  or Altinium,  where the
Jrlmnes,  being recruited, faught a fecond Battel ; obtain-
ed the vičtory, and expulfed the Romam , though not
without the ioffeof forty thoufand of their own men.
This hath been a very great plače, but burnt by the Chri-
ft.ans. The Hutigaruns  and Rafeians , who inhabit the
farne, living in no good agreement.

Thence to Jeni PaUnka,  where wie palTed the River
S at  v izza  , fjrmerly Urpanm , a handfome River, arifing
near Vefprinium,  and paffing Alba RegaLis , or StuRvoetJen-
burg , the ancient plače of Sepulture of the Hungarim
Kings, which makes a triangle with Buda ,and Strigonium. }
and running into the D&nube  below. From thence by
Set zve ar  to BotofecJ^,  where we travelled by night and had
a Horie-garde of Spahies , till \ve čarne to Setz ,  alarge
Town ; where I obierved the ruines of an o Id Cafi  le,  and
a ronnd Palefado npon the Hill.

Here is alfo a new Chan  or Caravanfarai ; then to Mo-
kacz ., Before we came to this plače, we paffed by a finali
Bridge over the Brook Curajfe ; ,  which,upon great raines,
over-floweth the Neighbour parts; near which Budovi-
cm  theunfortunate King of Hiwgary perillied, beingfti-
Red in amuddy plače, where his Horfeplunged, after
the Battel fought with the Forcesof Solymm , on theo-
ther fide of the Town. We went to fee the plače, where fo
noble a Prince loffc his life, and an inconfiderate Battel lofi:
the Crown of Hungary. Hereabonts vve met with a Čara-
van of two or three hundred perfons, fome going to a
plače ofDevotion, andhaving Janifaries vvith them, to
garde them; others intending , by permifiion, to feate
themfelves in other parts of Hmgary.  And in divers
places I met wich numerous droves of Oxen, driven to«
wards Vienm,  upon theaccountof the £<*/?fw~Coinpany

of

C 37  )

of that City, who furnifh that plače and Country about,
and are permitted topafs free by the Grand Signor.

From hence by E ari novo ar D ar da  or Draža  unto Ejfcck
or OJfeck >  conceived to be old Murfa }  ornotfarr from
it.  It is feated low, and the Streets are planked with
trees. llpon one bde of the Gate is part of a Rman  In-
fcription. M. iE LI A N , 8 tc. on the other bde, a Maids
head in a bone, there is alfo a Dyal,which is not ord inary,,
hrought from Serimvar ; and the greatebpiece of Grdi-’
nance, whieh I fawin a]l tbofe parts, not 3ying npon a
Garirage,but.upon bodiesof Trees. But that which is mpft
reinarkable bere. ?  i s  the\ve! 1-contri ved Bridge of vvcod:,,
made partiy over the River Dr avtu ,  and partiy over the
Fenaes adjoyning, belug five miles iong: being rayled,
and having Towers at every quarter of a mile, that part
over the River Dravus , was burnt down b y  Count Nico-
las Serini , in the lab warrs, and another built bnce. He
that beholdeththis Bridge, the Towers of \vood upon it 3
the brong raylesand fioare, and the ouraerous fupporters
ofit, cannotburwonder, how they fhould be fupplied
with wood to build it, or maintain it. But hereofl fpeak
elfewhere, this is the greateb paffage into Hangary,  from
Servia, and the r«rF//^Doininlons.Had this been we'll defen“
ded, when Soijman  invaded Hungarj  , he had not proba-
bly obtained fo eabe a march unto Buda.  And to hinder
the SuppSv of the Grand Vifiers  Army from other parts
of Burky  , Count Serini  burned down that part, vvhich was
built over the Dravus  ; and in his return burnt Š£uinque
Ecclefia  ortheCityof bveChurches, which lieth Wdt~
ward from Effeck.

From thence we rame to Vahovar ptntttc  there is a hand-
fome wooden Bridge over the River IValpv  or Falpantu r
plentifull of Fibi; and upon vvhich , to the Webward,,
bapds the Town of Walgo , -takeh by the Em h  in the

F 3  V * year

r 3^ )

vear 1645. Thenby Sotzirt Palanka , and Tm>arnick  or
Tabormck , to Metrouitza  a large Tovvn, and a great plače
for a Faire , ftrengthned by the adjacent Lake* Soro
Simonovitz , leaving at a good diftance on the right
hand the famous old Sirmium , now an inconfiderable
plače, whereofI havealfo iaid fomevvhat ellewhere. They
call this Cotmtry , Schremnia  ; and that, more near the
D razna, Boffega.

In this Country, many Families, and the Inhabitants of
divers littleTovvns, liveall underground. Ihadformer-
ly read of Troglodvtes  and fubterraneous Nations, about
cAtgppt ; but I was much furprized to fee the like in this
plače, and could not but fay unto my felf:

JSforv Ibelieve the  Troglodytes of old ,
lVhereof  Herodotus and  Strabo told  j
Sine e everj veh er e , about thefe parts, in hofes
Cumcular men lfnd, and humane mole s.

Near thefe Habitations areWells, to fupply themvvith
water; which they draw up,like Dyers and Brevvers: and
dogs come out upon Strangers. As we travelled by them,
the poorChriftiansvvould betake themfelves to their holes,
likeConies. So that, tofatisfie our curtofities, wewere
fain to alight, and enter their houfes, vvhich we found bet-
ter then we expedted , divided into partitions, with
wooden chimneys, and a window at the farther end, a lit-
tleabove theground: and allthings as neatlv difpofed,
as in other poor houfes above ground ; although but mean-
ly, afcer the falhion of thofe parts. Their fpeech is a Du¬
le# of the SchUvonUn.  So travel iing on between the Da~
nabita  and the came to Zemlin  upon the Danube-,

from whence we had a fair Profpeft of Belgrade,  into the
Caftleof Zemlin, StepUn>  the ufurping King, reti red, and

year
'Taboi'
for-a
Simoi
hand
piace
call t
j Vraz
In
diver
Ipre

plače

Near
wate)
dogs<
the pc
likeC
fain tc
ter tl
wood
tle ab
as in c
Iy, af
led oi
nubm
frotir
Caftle

c 39;

dyed. Fromhence we pafiedby water unto Eelgrade. Bcl-
grade Ttitirumm , Jlba Gr.eca, Greek-Wei$enburg,o? Kandor
Alba,as  the Uungafians  call it,it is a large,ftrong,populous,
and greac trading City 5 in Servia , or Moefia  Superior,feat-
I ed at the Confiuence of the Rivcr Savu *, and Danubrn :

having the fir/i on the Weft, the other on the North. The
Danubrn  is here very broad, runs furioufly, and feems to
cut off the Savu *,as the Rhofne  doth the Sotine,  by Lyon  in
France.

The vvater of the Danube  feems whiter, troubled, and
more confnfed; That. o f the Savus , darker , greeni fh  and
clear, at the entrancc of the Savus,  there is an Ifiand, on
which there is nowmuch wood, although it be not older
thenfive andthirty years; about\vhich time fince, the
file of both ftreams fo fettled, as to appear fir.fi: above
vvater*

Arrivingat Belgrade ,  I paffed by the vvater Čafile, and-
afterwards by the upper Caftle, bothlarge, and having
many Towers; The Streets, where the greateft tradeis
driven, are covered over with wood, as in divers other
trading places; fo that they are not offended vvith the
Sun, or raine. They coniift connnonly of Shops, vvhich are
but finali; and no other, then aTaylors Shop-board, pla-
ced lovve; upon which , afcer the farne manner, the Shop-
keeper fits, and felleth his wares to his Chapinan with-
out,few or noneentring-in.I faw alfo tvvolarge places built
of ftone,like unto the Exchange,vvith two rowes of PUlars
over one onother ; but they were fo fnll of Merchants
goods, that they lofi: much of their beauty. There are alfo
two large Bezejlens , or places, vvhere the richeftCom-
modities are fold.' They are built in the form of a Ca«
thedral Church, and within are like to the Old Exchange,
above fiayrs. The Grand Vifier  hath builc a noble Čara-
vanfara  in this City , vvith a Fountain in the Court, and

ncar ■

C 40 )

near unto ita Mefibea , with a Fountainbeforeit: vvhich
was the firft ^Mofihea ,  which I had the opportunity to
fee within-fide. He hath alfo built a Metrefeck  or Colledge
for Students,I faw a Študent habited in green, and wearing
a Turbant with four eorners, different from others, vvhich
is a peculiar diftin&ion. Although near tomoft Towns
there be Sepulchres to be feen, yet I obferved them to be
moli numerous at Belgrade , as being very populous, and
the PJague having been lately in it.

Weiodgedat an Armenian  Merchants houfe, where we
were handfomly accommoclated. And we vifited divers
o:hers,who had built them faire houfes; one, in vvhich
there was a Fountain and handfom Bathe, and Stoves,
vvhere we wanted not Coffe, Sherbet,  and excellent wines ;
fuch as the Neigbour Country afFordeth. Thefe Armenians
are diiper/ed inro ali trading places, and have a Church
here at Belgrade , and feem to be more plain dealing, and
reafonable men to buy any thingof, then either Jevcsot
Greeks.

TheCountrysabout have a great trade unto this plače :
the Ragufeans  trade here, and the Eaftern Merchants of
'Viema  have a Fačtory in this City. And furely Belgrade  is
as vvell feated for trade,as any inland plače in Ettrope:  for
beingfcituated upon the Confluenceof the Dambm , and
the Savne,  having the great River Hibifcus  running into the
Danah e  near it; the Dravus  not very farr from it , and
the River Morava  not farr below it; the Danube  alfo
flowing forvvard unto the Euxine  Sea , it may hold no un-
eafie commerce \vith many remote parts. And Servia  be¬
ing a fruitfull and pleafant Country confifting of Plains,
Woods, and Hills, vvhich might afford good Metals, not
vvithout ftout Men, good Horfes, Wines and Rive v s, if it
were in the Chriftians hands of the temper of thofe in the
Wefternpartof Europe } \t  might make a very fiounfhing
Countrv. This

C 4 TJ

This plače hath formerly been the Buhvarkof Hangary,
in vain befiged by Amurath  the fecond, and again by Ma¬
homa  the Great, who was repulfed by the valourof Hun-
mad.es , and the Auxiliaries , raifedby Frier Capifiranua:
when Hmniades  ifiiiing forth, and encampingout of the
City, beat away the Turkijh  Forces vvith great flaughter:
where Mah omet  himfelf' was wounded in the breft, loft
his Ordinance, and two hundred Ships wereover-thrown,
by a Fleet, which came.from Buda.  But, being unprovi-
ded, it was fince taken by Soljman , and in no likely-hood
to be recovered.

Leaving Belgrade,  we proceeded in Servia,  and pafled by
a very high Hill, called Havilleck , on the South or right
feand, where are ftill the ruines of an old Monaftery, and
came unto Hifiargick  , nigh the Dambe ; vvhich, in Maps,
is commonly placed too farr from it. Here we took leave
of that noble River, which by this time hath run a long
courfe ;  and from Utrne , in Schmabenlandt , vvhere itbe-
gins to be navigable, about nine hundred miles : but more
from its fivft fonrce and original ; and hath a long fpace
yet to run, before it entreth the Euxine.  Next to Cellar ,
not farr from Samandria,  an old habitation an d Roman
Colony, novv a plače of no great remark : then to Haf-
fan Baffa Balant;a , about forty Fnglijh  miles from Bel-
grade  : perhaps fo called from Hajfan Baffa  a famous
Turkijh  General. Here I could not but take notice of an
handfom Antiquity in Stone, of a Lyon worrying a Wolf
From thence to Baditzna , where the vvomens drefs be-
ganto change, andwas fomevvhat odd unto me. They
vvear a kind of Canopye on their heads; vvhich is feta-
bout, as alfo their foreheads, wich ali forts ofmony,vvhich
they can get of Strangers. We left fome finali pieces a-
mong them, to add unto that curio(ity; in this kind of
Ornament I haye feen Game G račun veartien  very rich, and

G fanewhat

fomesvhat after this fafhion, but their head-drefs not Pai-
fedfo high, having their forcheads covered with Ducats
ofC-old, and pearle. £o \ve paffea on to Jagodm r pkafdnt-
ly feated , and in a faire Gountry , whenče fetting for-
wards, aftera few houreswe turned South-ward, and foon
after, npon the fide of an Hill, npon the right hand , I faw
the Tonib of a Turkijh  Saint, about four yards long, and a
fquare covered plače by it: bere our Cbiaus  alighted, and
perfonned bis devotions in prayer, then we travelled
on, throngh great Woods, dangerous for wolves and
thieves , by Chiffick,  vvhere there is a Caravanfarah,  but
not always fafe: fo as vve rcfrefhed our felves in a large
Farme-houfe, not farr from tbence, belonging to a rich
Wine-Merchant of Belgrade.  From hence we travelled
by night to the noted River Morava  or Mcfchius,  the chief
River of this Country ; which arifing above in the Moun-
tains in two ftreams, the  one nam ed Morava di Bulgaria ,
the other Morava di Servia,  after uniting, runneth into the
Danube , at Zenderin  or Singidumm,  oppofite to the Raj-
f/<*#fhoare: we paffed this River at a plače which waS
broad, fomewhat deep, and rapid, and thereforenot
without fomefear, and the continued loud  prayer of the
Cbiaus  in Turkijb , and of the Couriers Or a pro nobis.  Nor
vvere they \vell latisfied vvithme, after that \ve had paffed
over, that I had been more filent then the reft, and yet the
fir/tonfhoar. Thispaffageputmeinmindof thefwiftRi-
vet Varus, in  the Confines of Frovence  and ltaly , which f
paffed on Horfe-back, with two men going by me, on the
Jower fide fhoving up my Horfe left the current fihould
bear him down. By this River Morava , the commodities
of Servia,  and part of Bulgaria,  are brought into the Da-
nube , and fo difperfed ; and up the current of the fante
River are brought Salt and other commodities,from Hun-
gary, Aujlria , and the neigbour Countrys, Not farr from

this

C 43 )

this River , was that great flaughtcr of the Turks  by Hm-
ntades  ; who, with ten thoufand Horfe, fet upon the
Jurktjb  Čamp by Moon-Jight, fiew thirty th.ouf&nd, and
took four thoufand prifoners , vifioriouflv returning unto
hi s Gam p. Where he lefc Uladijlaus  and George D e(pot  of
Servia.  We arrived at length at Halli Jabifar , or Crujho-
vatzj  in Bulganan;  a confiderable plače., where there is
an band lom e Church, with two faire Tovvers. Then tra-
veiling the who!e day through Hilis and Woods, we came
to Procupe,  \vhich fome vvhll bave to be Vitla Procojnana , in
‘turkijh  called Urchup.  Here we ftayed till the next day,
being lodged in a Ragafean  Mercbants houfe, where we
werewell entertained. The Prieft, being of the Roman
Church, fpake Latine  , which is a Language not ordi-nary
inthefe parts; and enquiring of me afcer Latine Books,
I prefented him withone , called Manuductio ad ccelum ,
which hekindly accepted, and gave me a wrought-colour-
ed Handkerchief, and fome little things of thofe parts.
Tliey had alfo a Phylit ian, who had fome knowledg of
Simples, and ordinary Compofitions. Hismanner was to
go intothe Market-place every morning, and invi:ea!J
perfons who ftood in need of his afliftance, to refort unto
him.

From hence vve čarne to Lefcoa ,  or Lefcovia , vvhere I
couldobferve little, befides a large Tower, \vhich feemed
to beancicnt j but vvithoutlnfcription. VfepalTedmuch
of our time at a great Faire, which happened to beat that
time kept in a large enclofed Plače , with great refort of
peop'e; where I thought it feafonable , to prefent the
Cbiaus  with a Feacher;hehaving loft his theday before,and '
we foand fome want thereof, for herebj vve trarelledmith
more Aathoriry through alfplaces. This To\vn is feated
upon the reinarkable River Lppcritza ,whicb may well be
called the Maanderot  > foricrunnethfo windirig

G. 2. -and

<  44  )

and cnjnkling bctvveen the Hilis, that inthefpaceof lefs
then twelvehoures, we paffed it ninety times. This called
to my mind the River Taro  in \tdy , which, parting from
the Dominions of Parma , I paffed forty times, before X
čarne to F or nov o.

The next day we travelled over the Mountain Clifara,
one of the Spurs or Excurfions of Mount Hccmus.  We
were much furprifed at the gallant appearance thereof, for
theRocksand Stones of this Mountain ihinedfke Silver,
and by the light of Sun and Moon, afford a pleafant gik-
tering fhow  , as confifting of Mufccvia  glafie, whereof I
brought fome home vvith me. We defcended in a narrov/
rockv way by the ftrong Caftle of Kolombotzpr Golobotz ,
and came unto Urama , feated at the bottom of the Hill ;
this is a ftrong Pafle , which the Caftje commandetb, and
locks up thepafiage.

The Hilis betvveen Servia zndMacedonia , are a part of
Mount Hiemus ; which, under feveral names, is thought to
extend from the Jdriatick  to the Euxine  Sea; admitting of
feveral paffages, which Philip  King of Macedon  took a fpe-
cial čare to fhut up againft the Neigbouring Nations.
Which vvhen he had done, he thought himfelf fecure; and
that from thence no enemys could comeat him,except they
dropped out of the Clouds. Some have thought, that
from the middle peaks of Hamus  a man might fee both
the Euxine  and jdriatick  Seas ; and King Philip  made
tryal of it: but wefind not, that he fatisfiedhis curiofity
therein; nor do I think any hath done it. Being upon
high Mountains, and more inclining to the Jdriatick  Sea,
I vievved ali about ; but found, that the high Albanian
Hilis did cut off ali longProfped.

Prom Urama  we paffed to Comonava,  near which there
is ftill a Greek  Monaftery,upon the fide of the Hilis. From
thence to Kaplanlih  or Jigrcs  Town; but\vhy fo called,

I could

C 4$ )

I could not learn. Then to Kuprnlih  or Bridge-Tmti,w here
there is a confiderable River named Pfima  , and a good
Bridgebuiltover it. This Town vas carually fet onfire,
vvhile vve were in it, and a great part of it burnt down;
the fire encreafing tnuch before vve got out of it. Here we
met with many perfons, who brought theTribute, and a
prefent of Havvks out of Wallachia  unto the Grand Signior ,
then refiding at Larijfa.

From hence, by Ifhar,  vve came to Pjrlipe , firft pafling
the high Mountains of JPjrlipe  in Macedonia , vvhichfhine
like Sil ver, as thofe of Chjjtira ; and, belide ^MofcovU
Glafle, may contain good Minerals in their bowels. The
Rocks of this Mountain are the moft craggy that I have
feen ; andanafly ftones lye upon ftones, without any earth
about them, and upon a ridge of a Mountain many Steeples
high ftands the ftrong Caftle 6f Marc# Crollomtz ,, a man
formerly famous in thefe parts.

Then throngh a plain Country vve came to ^Monafter
or Teli,,  a great plače, well peopled, and pleafantly feat-
ed. Here the Sultana , who was great with child at Larijfa ,
was defigned to be delivered, and lye in. Ali accommoda-
tions being ordered to that purpofe, where I aftervvards
heard fhe wasdelivered of a daaghter,who lived not long
after. The Turks \xho  have a high opinion of Jlexander
the Great, \vonid have bcen glad to have liad a Son of the
Etnpi re bora in Macedonia.

From hence to Filurina , and Ecciffo Verbeni,  where
there are v AciduU  of good efteem, the Springs large, and
plentifull. Before vve defcended the Hill, vvhich leadeth
tb this Town,we had a' fight before us of the famous Mount
Olympus , aboUt feventy miles off ;  and on the left hand vve
faw theLakes of Eetnski,  and OJirova \  they haveaTra-
dition, that one of thefe Lakes was made, by taking great
ftones outbf the (ide of theHills ', whereby the Subterra-

G 3 neous

( 46  )

neous vvatcr, fmding vent, over-flovred rhe Ndghbour
Piaines.

We ca me aftenvards to Egrifagia , wherc we again left
the P aines , and travelled over high rocky Hills to Sa-
nggiole.  Whence palling through the E iv,er Injecora.  , \ve
caineto Sarvitza ., a riored plače, built partly uponan
Hill, and parrly in the Plaine. The Cbriftians live inoft in
the lipper part, the Turks  in the lovver : there is alfo a Ca-
frle upon a very high Rock, not farr fromhence , we went
through a palfage, cut through the Rocks, like to a great
Gate, and a finali River palling alfo through it, vvhich
maketh a faft Palfe, and 'commandeth the paffage of this
Country, which put me in mind of la Chhfa , in the Julirn
Jlpes,  between Venjone  and Fonteva  vvhich paffage the
Venetians  fhut up every night, vve took notice alfo in our
journy, of the firft Turkijb Mofchea  , vvhich was built in
tbefe parts, upon that plače, vvhere the Turks  firif refted,
after they had take,n the ftrong Caflle and pallage of Sar¬
vitza.  Here vve alfo palfedby a Hill of a fine red Earth,
whereof they makePots and Veffels, .like thofe of Fortu-
gd Earth, whichare of e/leemaliabout thefe parts. We
proceeded over dangerous Rocks , in narrovv hanging
ways, ffcill on Horfe-back ; although vve had little plea-
fkre to look down, the Prscipiccs on one hand , and fee
the carkaffes of Horfes in fome places , vvhich had fallen
down and broke their necks. Aftervrards vve- had. the
Mount Oljmpus  on our left hand , till vre came to Jleffone
or jilefian , a confiderable plače; vvhere there is a Gr e ek
Monaftcrv, and Monks of the Order of St. Eafil.  The
Monaftery was of a difrerent kind of buildirg from any,
I had thenfeen. From hence patfbg over a River, we
entred intoa roundPlain , of about ftve miles over ; vrith
divers Tovrns pleafantly feated in it * Then over an Hill
again, vvhich is a Špur of Mount OlympM;  upon the top

vvhereof

r , ^47 )

whereof an old Man ftood beating of a Trum, to give no¬
tice unto Paffengers onbothfides, that thofe parts v. ere
freefrom thieves. Frora this Hill as we defcended, vve
had a good Profpetft of thePlainesof T bejfalp ;  and atthe
foot of it, vve turned to the left, and paifed over a River,
vvhichrunneth frotn under a rocky Moimtain, not in finali
Springs, but the whole body of the River togecher; and
then through Vineyards, and Cotten Fields, to Tomovo,
and from thenee to Laržffa , wbere the Ottcman-Ccurt  re-
fided: of vvhich places vve ihall fpeak more hereafter.

In our return, vve left the road, about Kaplunlih,  and
turned unto Skopia , a Ci:y of great Trade, and the largeft
in thefe parts. Scopia.  or Scupi  of Ptolomj , named Ufcopiu
by the Turkp  , is feated in the remoteft‘parts of M<ejta  Su-
perior, or the Confines of Macedoma , at the foot of Mount
Or beluš , v pon the River Vardar , or jtxius.  in a pleafant
and plentifull Country , feated partly on Hills, andpartly
onPlaines. It vvas firft a Bifliops, aftervvards anArch-
bifhopsSee; ftill a pleafant and populous plače. There
are feven hundred Tanners in it, andthey tanne in great
long Troughs of Ifone, and make excellent Leather, vvhere-
withtheyfurnifti other parts. There are fome handfome
Sepulchral Monuments, and many faire Houfes, as that of
the Čudih , and that bel onging to the Emir , or one of Ma-
bomets  Kindred, whofe Father was of great efteei* in thefe
parts. In the Court-yard of the Emir  s Houfe, ftands a
remarkable and peculiarly contrived Fountain, in tnanner
of a Gaftle, fet round vvith many Tovvers, out of the tops
vvhereof the water fpringth forth. Their beft Houfes are
furnifhed with rich Carpets to tread upon : and the Roofs
divided into triangles, quadrangles, and other Figures,
fairly guilded,and painted with feveral co!ours,but vvith-
out any Imagery or Reprefentation, either of Animal or
Vegetable. Here is alfo a faire Be&eftan ,covered with lead;

many

l  4 a  ;

many Streets covered o v er with wood; and divers places
arefaire bo.th within and without the To\vn, being Tet ofF
by Trees and pleafant Hills and Dales,

There are a great number of Mofchea's  or 3 urkijb
Churches. The faireft is on a Hill, and hath a large Por-
tico  before it, fupported by fourmarble Pillarsj near
which is a Tovver of wood with a Clock and a Bell in it;
from vvhence I had a good Profpečt of the City. There is
alfo an Arch, which feemeth to be Ancienr, and a rivolet
running under it. A large Stone alfo, which feemeth to
be part of a Pillar,with this Inicription S HIA N c . A lit-*
tle way out of the City, there is a noble Aquedu[t  of Stone,
\vithabout two hundred Arches, made from one Hill to
another, over the Iower ground or Valley, between which
is a handfome Antiquity, and addeth to the honour of this
plače. When Mabpmet  the fir/l conquered this City , he
plaeed a Co!ony of JJtaticks  in it / which makech it the
more Turkifb.  Great Ačiions have been performed here-
abouts, in the time of the Romms , particularly by Regil-
lianus ; as is teftified by 'Prebelim Polito , that he won ib
many Battels, and earried on fueh mighty things at Scufi,
that he deferved a Triumph. Hereabouts alfo iiood Para-
eogoliš,  and Ulgianum.

The Sanziack  of this plače is under the Beglerbeg  of Ru~
melja,  or Grada.  ATrade is drivenfrom hence to Bel-
grade  , and to fbejfalomca  or Salonichi , and many other
piaces. I have been more particular concerningthisCi-
ty,becaufe Geogr aghers  pafle it over in a few words ; and
I could nevet meet with any, who had been at it.

From hence we travelled to Catjbamb  aFortrefs that com-
man ds thepaffage between the Hills; and aftervrardsad-
vancedfo farr, as to enter the famous Plaines of Cojfova,
in Btt/garu ; which lome take to be Camgus JMeruU , a
PUine not very rnuch exceeding Umlne Heatb }  yet the

Stage

C 49 J>

Stage of great a&ions. Here the greateft Chriftian Army>
that was ever brought into the Field in JE urope,  conilfting
of five hundred thoufand men, under Lazarus Dejpet  of
Servia  ,fought with the Forcesof Jmurah  thefirft, and
lofttheday. Invvhich Battel Lazarus  was flain; and^f-
murah , viewiug the dead bodies, was ftabbed by Michael
Cohilovitz,  aChriftianSouldier,left for dead in the Field.
Jmurah  hath in thefe Plains a memorial Monument unto
this day; and that part is called thd Field of the Sepul-
chre: in the farne Flaines vras alfo fought that remarkable
Battel betvveen Hunniades  and Mah omet,  for three days to-
gether; where Hunniades , having very unequal Forces,
was at laft over-thrown.

So vve proceeded forward to Prejiina , a good Town,
and where we expefled good accommodation; but having
entred into a fair Room,vve found a man lying down in it,
fick of the plague. So we confulted our fafety, and flaved
not Iong; and having a Gypjie  to our Guide, vre trave!led
through a Country thinly inhabited, but fruitfull and
pleafant, and were much refrefhed vvithfair Cornelions ,
vvhich grevv plentifully inthe vvays: vve paffed alfo by
an hot Eath, a little on the right hand. The Bath is in an
arched Room, vvell built, and very refrefhingunto Travel-
Iors, it hath a red Sediment, and is impregnated \vith a
fucc/cs lapidefcens , and maketh a grav Stone. It is vvithm
two hours going of Bellacherqua  or Curfumne, where I ob-
ferved a Convent andan oldChurch, vvith two handforn.
Tovvers: Fromwhence paffing overthe Hill Jafnebatz,
vve came to Ejbelleck , betvveen the two Morava’s , and fo
by a Caftle upon a Hill, near unto vvhich is a noted Con¬
vent , vvherein is kept the body of Kenez Lazarus , and
the body of St. Romamts , and fo proceeded. But I nmft
not forget to fay foniething of Larijfa .

H

THE

C 51 )

THE DESCRIPTf
OF

s

AND

THESSAL Y-

L JRISSA  is the chief City of Thejfafy ,
feated by the River JBeneus  the chief River
of that Couritry. Upon the North Lt bath
the faraous Mountain Oljmpis ,and on the South
a plain Country. It is now inhabited hy Chri-
Jiims.Turks  and Jeves;  bath fair Bezejlens , divers Turkijh
Mofchezs , and Chriftian Churches in it. It is pleafantly
feated, and upon a rifing ground: on the upper part
vvhereof ftands the Palače of the Grand Signior , vvhich he
bath made ufe of during hisrefidence in this plače: it is
contrived with jettinglarge Windows, on four lides, near
vvhich he took his repaft, and paiTe-time, according as the
wind ferved, or afforded the beft ventilation.

It is alfo an Arch-bifhops See, having divers fuffragan
Bifhops under it. The Reverend Father Dionyfm  vas
then Arch-bifhop. The Churcb of St. JchiUem  is the Ca~
thedral, vvhere I heard Divine Service, the Arch-bifhop
being prefent, and ftanding in his Throne in his Epifcopai
habit, and his Crofier in his hand ; vvhen three or four

H'2 of

L A

( 52  )

of us Strangers came into the Church , hc fent one to fume
us v- uh Incenfe and fvveet Odours.

The Grand Signior  kepthisCourt in this plače for fome
years, in order to his Affairs in Candia , and for thegreat
eonvenience of Hunting and Havvking, vvherein he excee-
dingly deiighteth Wjhen I came away, it was faid, that he
vvould go to Negrofonte  ; but he remained at Larijfa  fonie
months afcer, untiii heremoved to Salonichi,  and after-
wards to ^Jdrianople.

In the hot anddry Summer 1669. the Grand, Signior
paffed above two months of that feafon upon the Neigh-
bouring Mount Ofomffts , partly that he might have a laige
Profpedt over the Plains, and a part of the zAlgtdan Sea,
and partly to enjoy frefh Ayr, and be removed from the
choaking heat of the Val!eys; but this humour proved
deftrmSive to fome hundreds of thofe, which attended
hiui; for it became fo cold upon the Hill, that many, who
reforted untohim, being over-heated by afcending the
Mountain, and then piercedby the cold Ayr above, fell
fick, and dyed; andoften in fueh places, where there was
fcarce earthenough to bury them. The Sn/tanhimfelf  fell
alfo into a diftemper, but it Jafled but three or four days :
of Horfes and Camels not a few perifhed. The Sultan,
is adefperate rider, killedone of his beft Horfes, by
for c ing him up a noted peak of the Mountain, called Fy-
thagon  or Kifagon, where fevv or none could follovv him; he
was alfo fo daring, that he vvould haveleaped on Horfe-
back overaFiffureor Cleftinthe Rocks in a bravery ;
and was fcarce vvith-held from that bold attempt, by the
prayers and importunity of his chiefeft follovvers. Many
alfo perifhed bvdrinkingofa Springof a vvhitifh co ! our
upon the Hill, in their heats and thirffc, concračled by af¬
cending the Mountain ; they complaining of a coldnefs
and heavinefs at their ftomachfor three or four days before
they dyed, The

C 53 )

The Greeks  (who are forvrard to roagnifie tbe Con-
cerns of their Country,) fpeak highly of Mount Olpmpus :
and Homer  would haveit tobe the habitation of Jupiter,
and the Gods,and to be \vitbout Clouds, but unto mefome
parts of the jllpes  feem much higher; and I have feen
Clouds above ic; and in September  there appeared no
' fnow upon it,which the high Peaks in the Jlpes,Pyrenaan,
and Carpathian  Mountains, befides tnany others in Evrope,
are never vvithout. And Olpmftts  alfo vvas plentifuliy f tl p-
plied vvith it upon the firft >rain that fell in that Conntry;
it not being uaknovvn to you, I fuppofe, that when it rain-
eth upon the Valleys, at the farne time it fnovveth upori
high Mountains,and this Hill I muft confefs to be vifible ac
agreat diftance j for I behe'd it from Ecciffo Verbem  in
Macedonia , feventy mi les from it; and it confifteth not of

. nfingpeak, as it is fometimes defcribed, but is alfoeX“
•.ended a greatway in length, and makes geod
theEpithite of Homer, LongumtremerefecitO-  M **f a >'*
Irmpum.  If the word be there takeri , not onely for high,
but long'

This Hill chiefly extending from Eaft to Weft, makes
the Inhabitants , at the foot of the North and South-
fides, to have a different temper of Ayr , as if they lived
in Climes much diftant; vvhich makes the exprei!ion of
Lučan  very Emphatcal;

Nec metuens im:  Borean habitator  01ympi,

Lucentem totis ignorat noclibus  Ardton.

Paulus eALmylius , the Roman  Conful, vvinding abont chis
Hill, by the Sea-fide, overcame King Perfeus,  and ib con-
qnered Macedonia.  When King Antiochus befieged
Larijfa , Jppius Claudius  raifed the fiege, bvgreat L ' v ’
fires, inade upon part of Mount Oljmpus;  the King appre-

hending

C 54 )

hending thcreby, that the vvhole force of tke Romanc  were
coming upon him. But the exploic of the Conful PJvUr-
tim  upon this Hill \vas moft remarkable, and unparallefd
byanyfince; whpbeing fent againft King Philip , thelafl
of-that Name, brought his Souldiers over O-
' ' 5 ' C “.P‘ 7- iy m p M  ^ by palfages unknown, andfuchdiffi-
cult ways,that his men vvere fain to wallow,and make hard
fhifc down ; and his Elephants, bv ftrange contrived En-
gines, fomevvhat like di-aw-Bridges , one tmder another,
were let down into the Plains ;  as 'Sr. Ualter Rmleigh
hath more largely defcribed the farne.

And as the Grand Signior  hath honoured Larijja  by a
'  . long aboadin it; fo King Philip  of oPMacedon,

T  °' y  ' us '  the laK of that Name, did the like: for we find
he pa (led the Suminer at Larijfa , the lame year, vvhen Uan-
nibaL  took Saguntus  in Spahi.  VFhether Xerxes  were here,
when his great Army pafled through Thejfalj/  tovvards
J hermoppU,  Hiftories do not dedare. But King Philips
Father unto Alexander  the Great, after he had quieted the
Uljirians,  and Pannonians  , bent his mind upon Greece \  in
ordervvhereto he took the City Lariffa  upon theRiver
Peneus,  and thereby got fo good footing in Thejfaly,  that
hemade great ufeof the Theffahans , in the following wars.
\vith Greece.

Before the Battel of Pharfalia , as Cafar  delivers, Scipio
tay with a Legion in this City, and this was the firft
plače, unto which Pompeji  retired , after his overthrovr;
accorcling to that of Lučan.

Vidit pinta tune tejlis Larifia ruim.

Nobile , nec violam fatis caput.

And notftayingthere, he went along theRiver, and
taking Boat, went out to Sea, and was taken in by a great
Ship, then ready to vveigh Anchor.

The

C 55 )

The River JP enens , which runncth by Lmjfa , is  the
ehiefeft in Theffdy , and into which tuoft of the other
Rivers run; arifing from Mount Findus ; and running in-
lo tbe Sinus Jhermaicus.or  Gulfof Salmichi ,paffing by the
famous Val!ey of Tempe ,and running bervveen Mount Qlym-
pus  and Ojfit,  into the Sea.

In that farno us e X ped it'.o n againft the Gr<zci&ns,'Xerxes
vrould have made hi s entrance by this way: for Herodot m
delivereth, that he fayled from jberma ,now Salmcbi ,ugto
the mouthof the River Teneus ; to obierve, if there vvere
any pafiage, or any could be made, to enter into Thejfalj  ;
and finding, uponenquiry, that the River had no other
paflage, and that it could not be turned : he faid that the
Thejja.ha.ns  had done wifely, to yield, and make their peace
with him; for, by ftopping of the River Teneus , Thejjafy
might have been drovvned.

J found the Epithiteofifečr very agreeable
unto this River, for it bath a clear ftream and * «•

bottom, and the Fable of Jpollo , and Dapbne , the Daugh-
ter of Teneus , who was turned into a Bay-tree, had a pro-
per Scene in this plače; for on the Banks of the River,
Bay-trees grow plentifully unto this day.

There is an handfome Stone-bridge over this River,,
conflftingof nine Arches; and peculiarly contrived vvith
holesand paflages in the folid partsbetween the Arches,to-
afford fome paflage unto the mater, vrhen it is high; and
hinder the bearing down of the Briage,in high \vattrs, and
great floods.

The City being full, many Turk s  had their Tents in the
Fields, by the River-fide, and lowergrounds vvhich be¬
ing of various colours, and not farr from a large Mofchea.,
and the City aflorded a pleafant Profpečb The Sails of
of their Tents were fo ordered, that they čarne not vvithin
a yardof the ground: fo that the Ayre might . freeiy en-

( ;

ter into them; where they commonly reniained paffing a
great part of the day in DrinkingS^e/-^ and Cofe.

The neareft confiderable Fort unto Lanfra , is that of
Volio,  or old Paga fr , in the Sinus Pagaficns , or Demetna-
cus y  or Gulfof Armiro : not far from whence ftood old Ar-
gos Pelafgicum ;  from which plače the Argonauts  firft fet
fayle, in that famous Voyage for Colchos , by which vvay the
Grand Signior  received intelligence from Candia , and his
jffian  and Afričan  Dominions. And not far from hence, at
the Promontory Sepias,  there happened the greateft Ship-
wrack vve read of; vvhen Xerxes  loft five hundrcd Sayl
by a Tempeft from an Eaft-vvind.

It was no hard matter to have afight of the Grand Sig¬
nior , at this plače ;  for he rode out often, for his recrea-
tion of hunting and hawking , with great number of Atten-
dants, and Huntfmen, and FaJconers, in their proper ha-
bits: and alfo went frequently to the  great Mofrbea , I
had a full view of him, as he came out of his Palače, to go
unto his devotion. Before he came out, divers brave
Horfes ‘richly caparifonned, were monnted by divers of
his Attendants , nobly attyred, and rode about the Court-
yard; ib that he, looking out ufthe  windovv,made choice
of which he Iiked beft, and would then makeufe of.

At his firft appearance abroad, great acclamations were
made,. low bowings from ali, both near and at a diftance ;
the Streets were made clean, and a Janifrrj  was placed at
every corner,to provide,that there might be no hinderance
in the way. The Chiaufes  rode before,the Shatters,or great
Courtiers,about twenty four follovved on foot; and imme-
diately , on each fide of his Horfe, walked two chief Ja-
nijzarijes , with white Feathers, fet in an hallovv Pipe be¬
fore their Caps, very large, and (pread, and about a fathom
high; which ihaking as they walked, were high enough,
both to fttade and fan his face as he jt ode.Many braveHorfes

were

C 57 )

vvere led aFter him, and divers perfons follovved, carrying
Gufhions and Pillovvs to the Mofchea.  Before he came out
ofhis Palače , I obferved many gallant perfons in the
Porch, which the Chiaus,  who walked with me, to Id me,
were perfons of thegreateft quality in Turkj.

The Grand Signior  was then under thirty years of age,
wellfet, fome\vhat fhort necked, inclining to fatnefs, his
cbmpl<?kion fallovv natural!y, and tnuch heightned by fre-
quent riding about in thofe hot Countrys. He hath a very
ftrong body , and healthfull, and is ahard rider; hath a
ftern look, and yet wouId fpeak kindly unto perfons, and
encouragethepeopleabroad to approach him, takingno
delight in the cryes,and frights, and flying away of the In-
habitantsatthefightofhim , or any ofhis Officers. The
Grand Vifier c arried divers Chriftian Chyrurgions with
him to Candia,  but I heard of no Phyfitian of Note about
the Grand Signior.  The Sultan  took great liking to a pri-
vate Turkijh  Prieft, whom he met vvithali by chance in
Theffaly , and made him his Chaplain; but the report vvas*
that a famous Prieft was coming to him,

Achmet , the Prime Vifier , being abfent, the Chaymacham
or Deputy Vijter  difpatched ali Affaires of State bere, and
had the beft Houfe in the City. The Emperours Refident
hadthree Interpreters, who, upon alloccafions, vveremade
ufe of in addrefles unto him, and by whom vve were in-
formed of the moft conliderable occurrencies; they being
civil perfons and good Linguifts,

The Sultana  wasalfo at Lariffa  much belovedby the
Sultan , by birth a Candiot , little offtature , fomewhat
marked with the fmall Poxe; fhe was then vvith childe,and
was to go to lye in at Monajler , a great and pleafant Town
in Macedonia ; whieh being a plače vve were to pafs, pro-
ved a great convenience unto us ;  for, in order to her bet-
ter journy, t he High-ways were plained ^Hills made paf-

I fable

C 58 )

fab'e, with Br.©ad-ways and Bridges over Rivers, to
the great labour of the Inhabitants ; who notvvithftan-
dingvvere not iinready , to make a Bridge forfuch great
ones to pafb out oftheir Country i for at the firft approach
of the Grand Signior  , a greac number of the Greeks  for-
fook their habitacions, for fear of him and his Attendants,
and left them unto the lurks ; but vvere recailed again by
his command.

The Grand Signior s  Son was alfo with him there, about
fix years old.

I vvent with O [man Chiaus  to fee theCbajmackatn s  houfe,
bnt efpecially tohearhis Mufick, which vrasaccounted
the beft in r turky.  Where I heard the loudeffc, yet not un-
pleafant Mufick, I ever met with ; ten men atonce p!aying
in an open high Room upon large Wind-inftruments 1 which
they mifle not to do at certain hours of the day.

In the Town I alfo heard fome Turkijb  Songs, but efpe-
cially concerning Sabata Sevi , the famous Jervijb  Impo-
ftor, vvho had made a great noyfe in the world, and how
Cujfum Bajba  fo handled him, that he vvas glad to turn
Turk.  This Cujfum Bajba , is a perlon much honoured by
the Turks , and cryed up for his great škili and pra&ife in
Phyfick; an Art not much known amongft them. He is
now Vifier  of Erzrum  in JJur,  is married to one of the
Grand Signior's  Sifters, and lives with her ;  and vvas for-
merly Vifier of Buda , and upon that account well knovvn
to the Germans.  Here I met alfo with a French  Book,con-
ceming ^MichaelCtgala , anotfeer Impoftor, who had de-
ceived the Emperour, and the King of France , and other
Chrifhian Princes. Which, the Interpreter to the Refident
told me, the Turks  very much laughed at $ and that he was
a Gracian  born, and not a J Vallacbian.  Of Faddre Otto-
manno,  who vvas thought to be the Grand Signior s  Brother,
nowa Dominican Frier, and vvhorn I had feen at Turine , I
could hear nothing. There

C 59 )

There vvere many thoufand Souldiers, and Horfes,in and
about the City, and five thoufand Camels for the fervice of
• the Grand Sigmor , which being of difFerent magnitudes,
ages, and the bunches on their backs of difFerent ih a pes,
and in fome variety of colours, and treading foft,and with
littlo noyfe, afforded me a pleafant fight, when they vvere
led by my lodging to watering at'the River.

VVhen we read, that Mar donita , the Perjlan  General of
©f the great Army of Xerxes , \vintered in ihef-
falf;  Ic is nofmall teftimony of thefruitful-
nefleof that Country 7  and thoughthenumber
of men was here very great at this time, yet was there no
vvant of provifion , but ali very cheap; in a vi&ualling
houfe, I could dine with roaft and boyled , and Sherbet
for the value of fix pence, and at an eafie rate could ob-
lige Turk s  and Ghrijtians  vvith a meal, vvhich they vvould
take very kindly.

The Plače vvas alfo extraordinary populous: there be¬
ing at that time fuch a mixed multitude in it. Yet was
theCity in very goodorder, and quietnefs. An Officer
■vvith a club in his hand, accompanied vvith about twenty
perfbns, walking about the Streets, and punifhing ali per-
fons drunk, quarelling, clamorous, or a&ing any thing ar
gainft good manners.

When I was there in September  1669. it vvas very hot
weather,andmany vvere fick of Feavers,and Agues; as they
vvere at that time in moli parts of Evrope,  and at my re-
turn into England  I found many languifhing under Quar-
tan Agues, who had been taken therevvith about that time.
They vvere then alfo in their vintage, and we had the op-
portunity of tafling their Muft andnevv Wine; and the
ftrifter Turks,\vho  would netbe tempted withWine,w©uld
be rnuch delighted, to take a little in the Mufi.

During the hot fweating feafon, vre went often to the

I 2 Barber,

C  60  )

Barber, who wou3d handfomely perform his work, and
much to ©ur refrefhinent; trimming every man according
tothefafhion of hisCountry.

The Greeks  bave a plače, ofthebredthof a Dollar, left
bare upon the top of their Crovns; andthenlet thehair
grow round it, the bredth of two fingers, more or
Mie;  after which they fhave ali the reft of  their head,
and wear it bare.

The Croatim,  hath one Bde of his head fliorn, and the
other fideis neither fhorn nor cut, but the hair is let to
grow as long as it will. The Hungarim  fhaves his whole
head, except his/ore-top. The Pelander , vveareth his
haire fliort cut, foas it cometh down to the middle of his
fcrehead, and the middle of his ear. The Turk  fhaves
his whole head, except a lock-upon his Crovvn. The
'Prancks  fhave not their heads, but wear their hair long,
as with us, one!y for the more amicable converfe, and that
nothingabout them might be offenfive to thofe,whom they
live amongft, they often tuck it up under their caps.
The Gr c ek  Priefts, alfo neither fhave nor cut their hair,
but wear it as long as it will grow; and inany of them
bave thick heads of hair ; butthofe , that have leaft, re-
ceive mcft refreflhment here. The party, to be fhaved, fit-
teth low; and the Barber hath the better advantage , to
fhave much at one ftroke, he 3ays on very much foap , and
holds his Rafor as a Knife, and in a few flroaks finifheth
his vvork. Tbere is a veffel of water with aCock hanging
over their heads, which the Barber openeth as he pleafetb,
and lets fall the water on them*

In oneof thefe Barbers-fhops in the City o f Lariffa  I
fewanancient largeTomb of Stone of a Jtftis  green co-<
lour, a noble Monument, but takenlittle notice of there,
and the Barberhad caufed a hole to be digged through the

top- :

C6i )

top-ftone, and put \vater into it, and made i t to ferve .him
for a Ceftern.

I vvas in Tome doubt, how we iihould be accommodated
for the exchange of our Ducats, Dollars, and other money
we brought with us; buc we found ready accoinmodation
therein from Mony-changers, who ftood at Stališ in the
Market-place for fuch purpofes, to change them into Me-
dines, Afpers,andfivefolspieces,whereof there vrasplen«
ty in thdfe parts-

The great trading Streets were covered, as in other
great 'Lmkijh  Towns; The Shopsare finali, butvvellfur-
niflred ; wherein hang ali commodities, which may be had
in a larger manner, if defired. The-Shop-keeper fets like -
a.Taylor inhisShop, and fo fells his Commodities unto »
his Chapman, who coinnionly ftands in the Street, For o*
ther Commodities, a manriding through the Street?crys
them, and gives notice, where, and at what rate they may
behad.

Though I have beenmuch pleafed at the fight of the fine
Stables of Horfes of many Princes in Chnjienieme,  as at
thatof the Louvre  in Far is.  The Vice- Roy’s of JSTaples.
The Dukeof Saxonys  noble Stable zi Drefden , and Con n c:
Wallefieynt s  at Frague  in the laft of which each Horfebath
a Marble Pillar by him, eats his Provender out of aMan-
gerof polifhed Marble upon a Pediftall of the farne, pla-
ced in a Nicchio  invvhich hangeth alfo his račk of ham- -
niered Steel, andoverhis head on one fide his Pid ure as
big as the life. Yet thofegallant Horfes, I beheld at La- -
rijfa , were furprifing unto me, chofen from ali parts of
the Turkijb  Empire j which were fo richly equipped with
Bridles and Sadles fet with pretious Stones, and vri t ha 11
fo teader mouthed and tradable, that it wasa great de-
light to behoid them. I favv fotne Tar tartan  Horfes, which
areoffmgvdar efteem>for hardnefsJaftiiig, & fwifmefs,bnt

unfightly v

C 6  2)

unfighdy, and pronvife lictle, and when Cha Gagi dga,  Em-
bafladour from the Cham  of I ’ctrtary , prefented fome of
them to the Emperour of German),  at firft fight, I thotight
them but a pitifull prefent.

The Greek  Merchants fome of them learn the Itditm
Tongne, in order to their Commerce : whichmakes that
Language of good ufe unto a traveller in thefe parts,where
Fremh  and Latine  are in a manner ufelefs. The Jervs
fpeak commonly Spanijh , as they do in dAlacedcma  , Ser-
via,  and Bulgaria;  and High-Dutcb  in Hungarja.

I\vas \wThefaly , at a very dry feafon, and fomeconfi-
derable Rivers were low, and fmall onesdry,yet one I ob-
ferved,about feven miles on thisfide Tornevo, to flow plen-
tifully from under a rocky Mountain ;  not in fmall fprings
or ftreams; but the whole body of the Rivercame from
under the Hill. The Country however in general was very
hot and dry, and I could not but think, what a different
'face it now had, from that, in the time of Deucalion  King of
Thejfaly\  when that memorable deluge happened in this-
Country, which fome affirm, to have lafted an whole win-
ter ; occafioned by fome ftopping of  the River Feneus,
and its current into the Se a ;  into which River inoft of
the others run, and Ib an inundation muft follow in fuch
a Country as Thej[aly ,  which is plain, and encompafled
with Hills. And fome alfo conceive, that in the firft times
ali thisCountry was under water, till anEarthquake di-
vided the Mountains of Offa  and Ob/mfus,  and made a free
palfage for Feneus , to paffe by Tempe  into the Sea. In
Mac e doma , behvcen Comonava , and Filurina , at a plače
called Ecci([o Verbem , where I faw plentifull Springsof
Mineral waters, Ihad alfo a Frofped of two great Lakes ;
one whereof thepeoplehaveaTradition, that it fxrft hap¬
pened by taking great ftones out of the fide of a Mountain;
whe r ponthere iffued out fuch a fioodof water, as to

drown

C 63 )

drown the C©untry about, and to caufe a Lake.

As 1 travelled in Macedonia ,the Chirns  toid me, that
witbin two days he \vould fiiow me French  men , \vhereby
hemeant theCountry people of Thejfaly  ■ fromfomedike-’
nefs of their Caps vvith filiali brims, to the little Hats Iately
infalhion.

The Thejfalians  havebeen a vvarlike Nation , and are
ftill a ftout people, I heard the Turk s  complain of them,as
a fturdy and defperate people; and men, who if injured,
vvould fmd opportunity to be revenged: and that tlivers
of the Turk*  had been furprized, and had loft their li ves
by thein..

Many famous Battels have beenfonghtin the plainsof
Thefialy \  and a greater then any there might have been, if
the Grudam.  had accepted of the challengeof Mardomus,
the Ferjian  General, vvhenhe fent untothem, to corne out
of their faft places, and fight with thern in T hejfdy , where>
there vvere Plains and open places enough, wherein to
ihow their valour.

The %hejfdkns  are an handfome race of peopl e, hav i ng.
black hair, black eys, and their faces of a frelh and florid .
fanguine, njuch like our frefh complexions in Fngland : fo'
that Strangers much admired the women, and fpoke often
of the bel fingue de Gred , or fairblood of the Gr# dan s.
The Mmdonuns , who live in hil]y Countries, are of a
courfer complexion: and the Mor e ms , or Feloponef.ans,
who 1 i ve more South-ward, incline nnto a fvvartinefs.

They have allways had the nameof good Horfe-men,
and the Country ftill aboundeth in good Horfes. They
have alfo great BuffitU’s,eftetmed  the largeft in Greece , ex-
cept thofe of Santu Mauru  in Epyrua.  There are alfo large
and vvell-coloured Tcrtoyfes , or afineyellow and black J
and efteemed very good rneat. But theT#r&f laughedat the
Chriftians, for feeding on fuch food ?  vvhere they might

have.

(M  )

havc Mutton, Pullets, and Parcridges.

The Country produceth very large, fair, and delicious
Figs, Water-melons ,  the largeft and moft pleafant I have
tafted ; vvhich were very refrefhing untous, as alfo fair
and delicate Pomegranates , Orenges, Lenimons, and Ci-
trons, Vines, which are low, like thofe dbout Montpellier,
and not fupporred; but the branches and clufters great,
andtheGrapesas bigasgood Damfons ,andofadelicious
tafte. TheWineof theCountryisrich., but much thereof
hath a refinous tafte, or tangof the Boracho.

They plant Tobacco, and efteem it better, then what is
brought fromother parts, as bemg more ftrong and pun-
gent. The Fields are fpread with Sefamurn, and Cotton
Trees , but the T  rees grow low, yetmake a fair £how.
The Country abounds in Almonds, and Olives; and the
Greeks  delight moft in the ripe Olive pickled , as we in
thegreen.

The Gourdes intheHedges, with their large yellow
Flovvers, and the many fortsof greenThorns, and ever
green Oaks, make the ways pleafant.

The llex coccifera  and Chermes-berry,or the Excretion,
ferving fordying, and inaking the Confečlion of jikher-
me s  grovvs here. Upon the high Hills grow „ Afclepias ,  and
Helleborus \  in the ftony Plains Carduus globofus, Cpftus,
Lavender, Marjerome , Rofemary, and other fvveetfmel-
ling Planeš. The E latam s  or Plain-tree groweth moft fair,
large, and well fpread mMacedonia ,  aftording a refrefhing
fhade ; fo that it is lefs to be vvondredat, that Hippocrates
found Democritus  fetting under a Plain-tree at Jbdera  in
Macedonia.  Some of the feeds and tufts I brought with
me into England.

They ufe much Garlick in moft of their difhes,and their
Onyons are extraordinary, as large as twoor three fair
ones wichus, and of a farr better tafte*, being fharp,

quick

C 65 )

quick, and pleafantlv pungenc, and without any ofTen-
ftve fmell. Though I were no lover of Onyons befcre, yet
I found thefe exceeding pleafant, and comforrable ro my
ftoniack. They areufed at moft collations, andeaten vvitfa
bread in good quantity. I asked a Cbiaus  , then with n s,
whohad travelied through moft of che Turkijh  Dominion',
whither he had any-where met with fo good Onyons, as
thefe of Tbeffalv ; who anfvvered me, that the Onyons of
c /Egjft  werebetter, uhich wasthe firft timel fenfibly
underttood the exprefiion in Scripture, and ceafed to
tvonder, why the Ifraelites  lingred after the Onyons of that
Country.

They have a Fr uit vrbich they call P at le jan  or Metan-
zan,  between a Melon and a Cucumber; out of which
they makeavery pleafant Difh ,by takingoutthemiddie
or feeds of it, and filling it up with the meat of Savvfages,
and then pare it, and boyleit.

Of the Agents of forrain Countries, there attended on
the Grand Sigmor^  the Reftdent of the Emperour of Ger-
i manj ,  the EmbafTadour of Raguji,  and another of Wallachia,
•vvhich are Embafiadours of the Confines; the Embaffa-
dours for Trade , refiding about Conftantincfle , and not
obliged to keep clofe unto the Sultan. Larijfa  being full
and peftered with people , the Emperours Reftdent deft-
red of the Sultan  leave, to abide in fome Neighbour
Town; who bade hitn to make choice of any plače,or any
Houfeheliked; vfhich concefiion moved hirn tocaft his
eye upon 'Tomovo,  a large and pleafant City of Ihejfalj/ , a-
bout ten miles Weft-ward from Lariffa,  and feated near the
Hills; where moft of the Inhabitants are Chriftians,there
being onely tbree Mofchea*s,  but eighteen Churches of the
Greeks ; whereof thechiefeft, which I obferved, were
thefe: The Cathedral Church of St. John , the Churdi of
St. Demetrm,  of Cofintts  and Damiantu,  of the Nativity of

K the

( 66  ;

theblefTed Virgin ; of  St. J Bas  (where thereisalfoanad-
•joyning Monaftery,featedonthe lideof the Hill) of St. J-
najUfm,  of the tv. el ve Apoftlesfof St. Nicholas,  ywitha
Convent alfo,) and of S . Jnthonj  the H trmi te. The Bifhop
hereof ts under the Arch-biihop of Lariffa And I coukl
Rot but take; notice hovv thefe Eaftern parts of E ur op e  a-
botmded with Chriftians of the Gr e ek.  Church beyond
my expeftation, and fince they are thus to be found in ma-
ny large Countr.yes. Jn Grasia  and the Greek  Iflands , in
the Turkijh  parts of Dalmatin  and Croatia,  in Rafcia , Boj-
} tia, Servia , I 'brada , Sapora  , Bulgaria , Sirfia ,, Bejfarabia,
Coffackia , Podolia  , Moldavia  and IVaUachia , and the vaft
Dominionsof the Emperour of Ruffia , they_ riuift needs
make a no tab le part of Chriftendome, and put me more
fentibly intnind of an expreffion of alearned Writer. lf
me Jbould collejl and put together ali the Chrijlian
prirereoods pg e ^ ons m  Europe rvhich are of the  Greek Com-
munionand  compare them mit h the parts pr o-
fefingthe  Roman Rehgion in  Europe, me Jbouldfind the
Greek/ar r to exceed.

The Fields about this plače are planted with Fines,Cotton,
and Sefamutn.  The Emperours Refident lllujlrijfimo Sign or e
di Cafa nova,was  well accommodated here with a fair houfe,
and had thirty Burks  and Chriftians in his Family, and
two Janizzaries  attending at the Gate , good humoured
and fair conditioned men, as con Id be vrifhed. The Re-
fident v/as a Milanefe  by birth, a grave and fober per-
fon , fomevvhat melanchoIy , much addičted to his Book
and reading, but very civil and courteous. He dined and
fbppeda ! one by himfelf; his Secretary., Interpreters,
and others of his Family , had another plače of repaft,
and were allways well provided, and ferved after the
Turkijh  manner.

The Embafiadour alfo o ^Raguja  tuade choiee of the farne

Tom n ;

( 6 7  )

Town; and their follovvers often met each other, and ma-
ny courteous falutes paffed be'tween them, but ,they were
one!y by civil Meftagea , for they never met. Upon a pm-
ttilio , which kept them afunder, the Rafufa  Embafiaaour
pretendinga right to take the firft plače, he being m the
quality of an EmbafTadour, the other but ofa Relident;
although he were mudi defpifed for it by th oGermans,
and his Mafters looked upon but as Gentlemen of the Settc
Bmdiere , or perfons that wereand had been Subjeds and
Tributaries under feven Mafters, or foverain Princes,

I muft not forget TJemetrim , a Greek  Merchant of Tor¬
kovo , invvhom I thought I beheld the humour of theold
Greeks , vve were divers times entertained at his houfe
with much generolity, and hearty freedom. He defired us
to enjoy his houfe free]y, and to be merry after t*he mode
of our own Countries : and, as an efpecial favour,brought
his two Daughters to bidus wellcome: and we took the
liberty, after the cuftom of France , Ilclland  , and JLng-
lani , to falute them; they vvere handfomely attired, after
the manner of their Country; their hair brayded and
hanging down their back; their ihooes or  flippers pain-
ted, their nayls coloured of a reddifti colourwith Cndor
'Alcanna  ; the leaves of which Plant, poudred and fteeped
in water and wine , and iayed a night upon their nayls,
leaveth this tinfture, and is much ufed in Turky .; where
fome delight alfo to colourthe maynsand taylsof their
Horfes. The Gracmis  of Scu>  alfo, who wear gloves (it
being a rare thing to fee any here) do colour their gloves
alfo upon thofe parts which cover their nayls. Cm  is
a great Commodity in the Turkijh  Dominions,. brought
out of Arama  and' <iAlgypt , and to be bought in every
good Town, or Fair. I brought a pound of it home with
me, which loft not its tinčUiringquality.

The Gracian  Countrys , which I pailed, are extremely

K 2 altered

* c 63  )

altered from tbat fiate, whereof we read in ancient Hifto-
ry : as having fufrered fpoyling incurfions frommany Na-
tions, and afatal conqueft by the Turk s ; who utterly de-
fti oyed m a ny Towns and fatnous places, and changed the
names of inoft; not leaving the old appellations unto Ri-
vers, which moft lafling!y maintain their ancient Names.
I pafFed moft of the great Riversin Macedmia,  the Jxius
Tngonm,  and Miacmon , vvhich have now names of no af-
finity unto them. The River Tenem,  fo famous in the old
Poets,hath loftits name, togetherwith Jpidama,Empevs,
and others, that run into it. The Tur h  call L&r $*, Jem-
Sahari and TheJ[a/y y  Cmemlitaru

SOME

( «9  )

S-OME

OCCUR RENČI ES

AND

0BSIRVATIONS

IN T H IS

J OURNE Y-

I T is no unpleafant fight, to behold a new Scene of
the World, and unknovm face of things, in Habits,
Dyet, Manners,Cufioms and Language. A man feems
to rake leave of our WorJd, when he hath pafied a
days journey from Rak,or Comrra : and, before he
cometh to Buda , feems to enter upon a new Stage of the
world,quitedifFerentfromthatof thefeWeftem Countrys:
for he then bids adieu to hair on the Head, Bands, Cuffes,
Hats, Gloves, Beds, Beer: and enters upon Habits, Man-
ners, and courfeof life: which with nogreat variety,but
under fome confonnity, extend unto China ,and the iitmoft
parts of

Though we were pretty well fecured by Authority for
fafe trave!,yet we were not without fear of the Hujfars , rili
we came to Effeck  Bridge , over the River Dravus : for
they are a&ive perfons; and underftanding the Language,
vnliboldly range about for booty a$. farr as that noted

F^fle,

C 70 )

palfe; and,knowing ali by-ways, will rob and fpoyl vi'ho®
they meet, efpecially tfieiT urkifh  Subječts.

Nor were vve vvithout fear alfo of Gypjies , who are ftout
and bo Id , and fomeof them have been noted Robbers.
There are many of them in Hungaria , Servia , Bulgaria,
Mac e doma;  and fome I favv a t Larijjd , and other parts of
Theftajy.  They are in tnofr Towns, and liveby Iabonr,and
handy-crafts Trades; many of them colour their hands
and feet of a reddilh colour, with Cm , and think thofe
parts fuffer lefle from the cold thereby. Šotne Gypjy  wo-
men colour the ends of their hair alfo. Though they be re-
motely difperfed , yet they are thought to have had their
beginning abou t Wallachia , and the adjoyning parts, many
of them are conceived to be fpies unto the “Turk,  A little
before I came to Beopoldftadt,  by Breijiadt,  a great drove
of  them appeared in thoie parts : which the people fufpe-
fted to be Spies of the Vijier  of Buda , to take notice of the
State of thofe parts, andhovv that Fort proceeded.

Travelling from Belgrade  into Serviet , we vvere in fome
fearofbeing robbecl; for we perceived three Horfe-men
to ride very faft after us; and , when they ha d over-taken
us, they rode about us, vvaving their Lances, and dif-
eharged their Piftols, butthe Chiaus  perceiving them to
be Sfahies,  fhowed his Feather, and faid to me, difeharge
one of your Piftols at randome, and let them know, we are
not unarmed ; atwhich theywentoff, and vve favv them
no more.

Caravanpirets,Chans,o  r places of publick Iodging,buik
by Benefadours, vve liked not fo vvell as private Houfes;
and therefore, beingbut fevv in company, feldome lodged
in them , for they arevvideRooms, and vve muft provide
for our fel ves therein; and fometimes they are dangeroufly
feated , fo that it vvasnot fit toadventure our felves there¬
in , for fear of being robbed; for though Robberies be

C  71 )

fe'verely punifted, yet are they frequently committed,and
Ggpfies  are well verfed inthatTrade, and thertfore, in
orcier tothefafetyofTi?avellers ; drummersare appointed
in dangerous paflages ; and in <gj Macedonia,  in a narrovv
paffe, J faw an old. Man beating a d rum upon the ridge of
a Hill; whereby we had notice, that the paflage vvasclear
and free from theeves.

We had theadvantage of goodaccommodation for trat
vel, for part ing from Comom  , our Boat was tovved by a ,
Srnic k  of twenty four oars ; Hmgarims  rovving upon on 2
fide , and G er mm s  on the other; ti H vve čarne to Mo teh]
the Frontier Town,where we had a 'Turkifo  Convoy ; vvho
faftning our Boat to their Saick  vvith eighteen oars, rowed
dovvn the Dambe,  we carrying the Eagie on our Flag,žmd
the “turks  the double Sword , and Half-moon , and paffed
by divers remarkable places to Buda,  from vvhence vve had
good accommodation for travel to B e Igr a de  • by open
Chariots,vvith two,threeor four Horfes on breaft; which
with great fpeed conveyed us through that pleafant plain
Gountry, and from thence through S ervia , and other Pro-
vinces, vve vvere furnifhed vvith very good Horfes, wbich
vvould travel at a good rate tvventy miles in a Stage, and
were very fure of foot • vvhereof I had good experience, .
vvhen in fome parts we travelled over great Hills, unequal
and craggy places, and over the bare Rocks. They are ■
very free, and therefore the Ovvners of the Horfes took
acceptionsat our Spurs, vvhichare feldome ufedby them,
and the turks  had none, but what vve brought, and gave
tbetn. They are very tra&able and tender mouthed ; and,
when we mounted oralighted, wou!d handfomely apply
themfelves to fuch places : andvvhen we wa!ked, fome of
them vvould fo!low us vvithout leading,they havea lighter
and leflfer fhoe chen our Horfes •, and vvhen they have ibod
one foot,the.y take up the foot againft it,&fetting the other

upon

(  72  )

upon a block of three inches bigh, they pare it.

They have very good Horfes in moft of thefe Countrys*
and veryfleet, but tbey never dock them, but tlieir tayls
grow out at length , and fometimes they handfomely make
them up: and in their;ourneys they often aiight frarn
them,and ftrongly puli at their fore-topor forebead-lock,
and think that doth much refrefti them, which the Stran-
gers who travel bere call Cnatian  Provender.

The Baffaof Tamejvoar  prefented Ragotzi  with a Horfe,
which Ragotzi  ilighting cut off the Horfes £ars, Main, and
Tayl, and fent him back again. This perhaps would ha ve
been thought an ornament to an Horfe in England : but the
Bajfa  took it as fuch-an aftfont to his, that he never ceafed
from ftirring up the Sultan  , and other Princesagainft him,
and never forgave the in;ury, but by the help of the 'Turi:,
Tar tar, Emperour, P de s , and RagttzPs  ovvn Country-men
alfo,be wrought at laft his ruine.

For their feeding, they makenohigh Mangers or Kacks,
to puli dovvn their food; but obferving the rule of na¬
ture , lay their Hay low before them, and almoft even
with the ground; wbich in long necked Animals , may be
the moft commodious vvay,they ate lodged hard,and often
with little covering. At Larijfa,  vvhere the Town was pe-
ftered with Horfes andCamels: the Tardsof the Houfes
were full of them, and places made at the bottom of the
Wall for their food.

In Cauvanfards  the Horfes are tyed to a ringle, faftned
into the fideof a long plače, a little elevated, upon which
he Travellers take their reft ;  and the hay \vas layed a lic-
tle below our feet, whereon the Horfes fed.

They plotigh more \vith Oxen then Horfes,and efpecial-
ly with Buffelds ; and have great variety of Ploughs and
Carts ; fome vvhereofl could not but take notice of in
MiMedenim,  made with wheels,not confifting of fpoaks,but

of

( 73  )

of folid wood, in the vvhole piece; vvhether fo con tri ved
for ftrength, in rhofe rocky Countries, where they muli
lirike and force upon fuch unequalities, I cannot teli.

We \vere furnifhed with finali things to obiige the peo-
ple, vvhere we palfed: and in Houfes vvhere vve entred,
many vvould vvellcome the Emperours Courier, and ask
him what he had brought for them. We pleafed them with
Ciflers, Knives ; and they vvould be content, if vve gave
a Glove to one, and the fellovv to another. To the women
vve gave finali pieces of Furopean  Coyns ; and I was much
thanked by a Bulgarian  woman,for a bright cinq fcls  piece,
which fhe added to the drefle of her Head, over her fore-
head, vvithother Coyns fhe had there before; fomeof
them vvearing Duckets of Gold, and Pearl, and Stonesof
value upon that part, which make nounhandfome fhovv.

Eeing oneIy carefull to keep our fel ves from thieves, vve
expeded no fuch trouble, as vve found from vvolves and
dogs, in our journey about the Mountains in ServU ; and
efpecially inlargeWoods, wewere continually alarmed
by vvolves, efpecially in the night ;  vvhen they feldotne
ceafed to houie in  great numbers, and not farr from us; fo
that we vvere forced to be follicitous in our guard, and to
to keepclofe together. And as the vvolves vvere trouble-
fome, fo alfo the great number of dogs in thofe parts vvere
very offenfive to us. As foon as we came near any Town,
or lefc it, they came out, running at us, barking and bi-
ting the Horfes Iegs, and in houfes vvould be barking and
fnarling, fo that vvithout acudgel it was not fafe going in-
to the Yard. And it feems impoffible, that thefe Tovvns
fhould be furprifed by themoft iilent enemy, vvithout ha»
ving good notice thereof by dogs: andfure, they are
keptto this intent. For as foon as the Sun fetteth they  be¬
gin to bark and ceafo not tili the moniing. The Town of
St. MaIos  in France  is alfo garded fomevvhat after this

L manner,

(  74  )

manner,where they turnthedogs cut ofthe Town at night
and are as fecure thereby, as if they h a d an army of Watch-
111 e n to guard them.Some fucb trcuble fr oni dogs I remem-
bred, that I bad met withat the ftrong Tovvn of Komar a,
when I came into the Tovvn about midnight, v, bich was fo
fuli ofdogs fiercely barking and running upon us, that to
fave our felves,we were fain to rake fhelter in the Car p s de
guard , tiil a iodging was provided forus.

Jcouldnotbut pity thepoorChriftians, feeingunder
wbat fear rhey lived in thofe parts: vvhen I cbferved them
to make a way, as foon as tbey perceived us coming to-
vvards them. In Macedonia  the men and women vvould be-
take themfelves into the Woods to avoid us ; and vve took
the pains fovnetimes to ride after them, to undeceive them
of their folly, and needleffe frights.

But that which moved memoft, was the pitifuJl fpečta-
cle of Captives and Slaves, which are often met with in
thofe Countries; together mththe varietyof thei?hard
fates and accounts > how they fell into that condition •, fome
by treachery, fome by chance of warr ; others by Pla-
giary, and man-flealing Tartars,\vho plentifullg fu  rnifh the
Turkijh  Dominion; fome fixed to one Mafter, others ha-
ving been fold unto many, and at diftant places. But their
condition is moft defperate, who are Slaves to the Court,
and belong to the Grand Signior : for they are never to be
redeemed. Of vvbichkind I  metvvithoneat Kgribugia  in
Macedoma , attending at the Poft-boufe; who though he
had no hard office, yet was extremely deje&ed upon this
misfortune of N©n-redemption.

In Theffaij zlfo  I met with one Sigifmund,  who had been
a Slave to feveral perfons, andinfeveral Countries. He
was an Hungarian , bora at Gran,  and taken at the Battel of
Barachan , under Count Forchatz , in the Jafi: warrs; firffc
ferveda Turk,  then fould to a Jeva  who proved a hard Ma-

fter;

C 75 )

fter, then to an Armenian ; under whom he fo well acquit-
tedhimfelf, that his Maller gavehim his freedom, and he
made afhift to come to Larijja , where the Emperours Re-
fident entertained him , I was very much pleafed with his
converfation , beinga worthy , honeft, and good natured
®ian; and had maintained his Chriftianity in his feveral
Fortunes. He fpoke Hungarian , Sclavcnian , Turkijh , Ar-
menim  and Latin:  fhew a me the draughts of many Mo-
nafteries, kbbies,<L?vTcfchea’s,  and confiderable buildings in
jtrmenia , Ferf.a , and Turkj : and I hope by this time he
is in his own Country,

The Turks  wh.o are well acquainted with the Captives
of feveral Nations, make obfervations of them: fo they
Fay, a Ruffian  is beft for the oare, a Georgian  makes a good
Gourtier, and an Ribanim , a good Counfellor. A Turk  in
ourcompany, obfervinga Georgian  Cap ti re muchdeje-
čled at his condition, encouragea him, and bid him be of
good cheer; teli ing him he might come to be a great man,
and one of the beft in Turky.

The firft time I went to have a fight of the Grand Sig-
nior , O [man Chmu  made no great hafte forvvard, and when
I asked him the reafon, he replied I take no great pleafure
to be too near him: and aftervvards when he talkedoffome
Baflas  who had*been ftrangled,and Iadded that in thisre-
fpeft he lived more happily then any Baffa:  hefaid; Such
things muftbe patiently putup, ali our lives are in the
Sultans  hands; in your petty Kingdoms and States,men are
tryed and convided, but our great Empire cannot be fo
maintained, and if the Sultan  fhould now fend for my head
I muft be content to lay it down patiently , not asking
wherefore; and I rememberhis words were that in this
Country vve muft have, patienz,a fin a perder latefia , e pol
patienza , patience even to the lofle of our heads, and pa-
tience after that.

L 2 j

We

C 76 )

We had frequent Metnonto’s of morta!ity, by Graves
and Sepulchres, as we pafled ;  efpecia!iy near Belgratk.
For che Tur k s  are common'y buried by the High-vvays:
yet their Tombs are not ordinari!y fplendid ; confifting
oneiy of a Stone erečled at the head and at the feet; yet
Fome fet up Stones of tvvo, three, or four yards high. Some
havca Turoant carved upon the Stone , at the Head, and
others fet up two Pillars of Stone ; fomeproceed farther,
and raife the Sepulchres, as with us, and aftervvards plače
tvvo Pidars upon thern, one at the Head, and another at the
Feet. At ScopU  I faw fair ones,after this  inanner, and tvvo
Sepu ! chres inoneof them: but the bed way I obferved
in thefe parts, is by building a Pavillion fupported by
four Pillars. As we travelled to the South from Jagodna
in Servia.  I favv upon the fide of a Hill , a \argtTurkijh
Tomb, about four yards long , and a lquare plače covered
by ir, vvhich the Chiaus  told me  was the Tomb of one of
their Saints, and accordingly performed his devotions at
it, and at ©ther places ,on Thurfday nights, and Fryday’s,
I obferved the vremen to vifit the Sepulchres, and pay
their devotions at the Tombs of their dead friends.

This Gigantick Saint tbat Jay buried here, vvas certain-
ly afit man in his time to wield the holy Club,with vvhiefe
the T«r4does propogate his Religionand Dominion, and
if he vrere as long as his Tomb he vvas as formidable a per-
fon as an y  of the Patagcnim  Gyants painfed upon the
Southern part of divers Maps of Jmeriea  with long ar-
rows in their throats. I iiiuft confefle it feetns ftrange to
nvethat theStature of man fhould be extetided to that
height. Mr. Woodzn  ingenious perfon who hath made ve-
ry  ha ir and accurate Maps of the Streights of Magellanove
Iflands therein, and the Coaft from ffie Ri ver of P late  fo
Baldivu,  in the South Sea: told me that he had feen divers
Graves in the Southern parts of Jmema  near four yards

long,

C 77 )

foiig, vvhich furprifed hitri the more, becaufe he ha d r.ever
feen ariy American  that was tvvo yards high, and therefore
he opened one of thefe long Sepulchres from oneendto
the other, and found m it a man and a woman, fo placed,
that the womans head lay at the mans feet, and fo might
feafonabiy require a Tomb of near that length..

But to retiirn into the rode for our diveriion, we fome-
timesmet with Turkijb  Fairs, vvhich are ordinarily keptin
Tome large ground, enclofed and divided into Street s and
Pafles, according to the variety of Commodities to be
fold, where a man may recreate himfeif with nmkiplici-
tyof fripperies , and things diferenc from thofe ofonr
parts, and cannot want variety of Muf c k \  which »,
though but mean, proved fome diverfion unto us, The firft
Fair vvemet with ( , mas at L e fesa  or Lcfcovia , uperi the
River Lip er izza  in Servid.

It was iio filiali comfort to us,to find the Countrv fo free
from the plague, which weonely met with at Prejiim  , a
large Town,on part of the Plains of CoJfova^vhm  we came
into that plače, we were entertained in a very geod houfe,.
and brought into a Jarge room, well accommodated with
Carpets and other Ornaments; vvhere we found a Turk  ly-
ing fick of the plague. The Cfe»^,after the Turkijh  humour,
made nothing of it ■,  but Orne others were not fo content-
ed ;  and therefore we removed,and travelled in the night,
ti 11 we came to a Gypjtes  houfe amongffc the Mills, vvhere
\ve were well accommodated.

The Tur k s  vveremucb pleafed to fee me write, vvhen I
came into any Houfe, I pulledout my Paper-book, to fet
down what I obferved *, vvhich vvhen they perceived,they
vvould corne about me ,• taking notice of the paper, and
binding of the Book , vvondring to fee me vvrkefo faftp.
and v? it h fueh a pen, wftich vvas made of a Gcofe quiT,
they ufualfy writtng with a hard reed %  cut like our pens .

Many,

(  73  )

Many carry about them an handfome brafTe Inkhorn,
which they hangby their fides; tbeir ink is good, paper
fmooth and polifhed ; whereon they vvill write very fair-
ly, as I have to fliovv in the Suit ms  Palfe, wbich I brought
home with me.

When I found occafion, I ufed to look npon Tome Maps,
\vhiph I carried withme : whereat Ofman Chiaus  fnuled,
faying, there is no depending upori Maps; they fetdown
onely great Totvns, and often falfelv- Chiaufes  areable to
make the beftMaps, whopafle theirdays in travelling
Countries, and take notice of ali places, and knovv their
Turkifb  names; and in many particulars f found fonie truth
in his words v for the Maps of Hmgdry  are not exači ;
thofe of Servia , Bulgaria, Macedoma  , and T heffaljr  very
imperfeft. In upper Hungary , many Towns are omitted;
many ill-p!aced, in the lovveralfo not a few. The Danube
feetns to fetch about toomuch to the fouth-vreft,' before
the Tibifcus enter s  into it. In Servia , Hijsargick  is placed
too far from the Danube , which runneth by it, I fin d no
mention of Prccupa , or Urchoep,  of Lefcea,  or Lefcovia ,
confiderableTowns; the laft upon the vvindingRiver Li-
periz&a : nor of Kaplanlyor Tigres  Town, in Macedmia ;
norof Kupuly  or Bridge-Tovvn:  nor of Urania,Pyrlipe,
Comonava , £eciffo Verbeni , nor of the Lake Petrisk }, and
Oftrova,  not far from it : nor of Egribugra , Sariggiole,Sar-
'viz.za ; norof the River Injecora  near it: nor of Jlejfon,
nor T ornova  in Theffa/y,  a handfome confiderable City.
And he that travels m Mac e dom a,  will never be able to re-
concile the pofitions of Rivers andTovvns to their ufual
Defcriptions in Maps, althoughnot long ago there have
been largeones publifhed of Greece.

I took great pleafure to converfe \vith Chiaufes , efpe-
cially if they vvereof any ycars; for they fpeakdivers
Langnages, and have feen muchof the wor!d; are com-


( 79  )

ntonly good ccmpanj, and able to give account or many
things. Ofman Chiaus,  vvho t ra vel led with us, mas aboti t
fiftyyearsof age, fpak eTurkiJb, ScUvonian  and \talian :
a ftout and faithfull honeft perfon, very clean!y and neat:
he told me he had travelled the greateft part of Turky,zx\d
growing o;d leated himfelf in Buda , as a Chiam  to the Vi-
fier ;  which plače pleafed himbetter then anyinT ’urky :
he took a civil fareweil of me at Buda , bringing me outof
theGates , and withmany a Dios  wifhed me a bappy re-
turn into my Country , and indeed in ali my ;ourney I met
with fair carriage , and civil ufage; when I came into any
Room where the Turks  were fitting, they would falute me,
and touching my hand , require me to fit down with their,
then offer m t.Coffe , and fometimes Tobacco,  and atmeal s iu-
vite meto eat hearcily; onely in fome p’ace>, the boys, and
rneaner Fort of peop'e would callme Sajbtlu gaur , or hai-
red InfideK And a Jew  at LariJJa , whom 1 had emp!oyed
to buy fome little things fbr me j and I faying, they mere
too dear, gaveme fome ill Langnage, which fodifpleafed
lome that were by, that if the Grand Signior  had not been
in perfon in the Tovvn ,  they would have taughc hiin ocher
manners.

The Tur k s  took mnch Tobacco ih the Countries which
I pafled , and many carried little bags thereof by their
fides, which they take in pipes of anell lorrg, made of an
hard reed, and an car then head at the end, laying one end on
the ground, and holding the other in their mouthes. Fdid
feldotne take any, but to comply with their kindnefs, I
w ould not refufe it j  and by reafon cf the length of the
pipe, it vvas cool, and leffe difturbing; they take it alfo.
often in fnuffe. Signior Gabriel,  the Emperours Courier,
weuld teli thein many ftories; and while he mas ipeaking,
they would corae abont h im, and lifTen vere attentively r
and he mouid puli out hts fmiffe-boXe, ancUput fnuffe-

poudei.

C Bo )

pouder into their nofes, vvhich they vvould take very
k.indly. They would be a'lways gazing upon the Empe-
rours Armes cut in a Stone,'vvhich he wore upon his breaft;
vvhereuponhe would take occafion to magnifie the Empe-
rour, defcribe the multitude of Provinces fubjeft unto
him; and anythihgthat might conferr unto his honour,
vvhereof they vvould take great notice.

I liked vvell the neatneffe andcleanlinefleof the Turks,
vvhich weconverfedwith, and their vvafhingof their feet,
hands, and faces, though they had Tome purifying con-
ceit thereof ;  vvhile we travelled, the Chmes ,  at the fight of
a Spring, or clear vvater, vvould ofcenalight,and vvafh him-
felf; and every morning was very curious in vvinding up
hisTurbant, and combingof his beard; andwouldask
me, vvhither it were vvell done. When they go to the houfe
of office, they carry a pitcher of water with them; they
affed privacy whentheymake water ;  vvhich theyper-
form,refting upon one knee, and ftretching out theother
kg. Walking in Laržjfa  with the Chiatts , the Streets being
narrovv , and full of people , and remembring the fad fate
of Vincent le BUnc,  who lo/l his libeny, bčfides  other mif-
iortunes, for piifing over a Turkijb  Saints head, vvho lay
interred in a plače,he little fufpeded;I asked him,where I
might make water vvithout offence,who anfvvered me grum-
bling!y at firft, but aftervvards direded me to a plače, and
ftood at a little diftance,to fecure me fromany affiront. And
at another time vvhile I travelled in anopen Calefehe  by
Moon-light, I made vvater over one fide thereof, to avoid
being troublefome to the reft in ingaging them to ftay for
me till I alighted and vvent afide or retard their journey
in the night; but one vvho layed dovvn by my feet took
notice of it to me vvith a great deal of regret, and though
out of the refped he profefled to bear me, he was refolved
not to divulge it. Yet he wondered I vvould venture the

loffe

C Sr )

iofTeof my čredit in fuch a matter.

Some- experience we had in our return of the Turkifb
Juftice, at Egribugia , 'vaMacedoma ;  fortraveIHng frotn
Sariggiole  over high Rocks, we met with a TurJ^jb Jga  be-
fore our arrival; who, baving anumerous train, had taken
upali the Horfesat Egribugia ; fo that \vecouldnot be
readily fupplied; and therefore intended to ride our
Horfes another Stage, the way laying now in the Plain, and
our Horfes , ftrong and able; we fet forward on the
farne Horfes; but before we were got out of the Town,we
were ftopped, and carried before the Cadih , by the Poft-
mafter; who alledged againft us, that we were injurious
unto bitn, in that we palfed by, \vithout taking Horfes at
his Houfe; he being allowed by the Grand Signior , whofe
Servant he is, fomuch for every Horfe he provideth ; and
that none was to provide Horfes in that plače, but himfelf;
Ib that hewas damnified and had no profit coming unto
h im.

The Cadih  therefore confidering of the bufinefs, and
fetting croffe-legged upon his Garpet, and leaning his el-
bow upon fbur or five Folio Books, which he had by him;
commanded hisServants tofillevery one a difhof Cofe.
The Chiatts  in our defence, urged, that we had bufinefs of
concern; that we had the Gkajmacharris  Letters; andvvere
employed from the Grand Signier  to the Emperour of Ger-
many;  thathehimfelf was a Chtaus  to the Vijter  of Buda,
whither he was to conduft us, and that no man couldor
ought to ftophim; whereupon the Cadih  faid , the ehiarn
mufi not be hindred in his ;ourney, nor thePoft-mafter be
unconfidered ; and fo prefently called for the Poft-mafters
Boo k, and vvith his pen made of a reed s  fet down a Suita-
nine  to be a!lowed him in his accounts to the Tefterdar ,
and bade us good tnorrow, and vvifhed us a good  journey.

In the European Turhjb  Dominions, which I paffed, f

M could

C §2 )

could not but take notice of the great number of Chri-
fiians; for, excepting great Cities , or where the Seldierj
refide, they are generaliy.all Chriftians; whereof the great
body isof the.Gr^Church, who live patiently under
the 7urkijb  toleration, If there fliould happen any conli-
derable commotion among the Turkiflo  povvers; it is high-r
ly probable, they would fetftill, and be little a&ive; and
if any Forces of the Latine  Chureh fhould attempt the
Conquefts of thefe parts, in ali probability they would
find very litdeaffiftance from thcm, and Ifear they would
rather adhere unto their 7urkijh  Mafters.

Though. Jugujlus  thought it a point of wifdom x  to pur.
fome limit unto the Roman  Empire, yet I do not find the
7urks  areof his judgment, but ffcill endeavour to enlarge-
their Dominions, and when I confider that people, their
hardy education , fober courfe of iife, and obedience to
their Superiours.;. that no Eafa  ca n eafily intend a. revolt,;
but folne others will difcover him, in hope to obtain his
plače, or fome great preferment; and that they fo pun-
ftually obferve the duty of their Charges; I am apt to-
think, or fear, if he, who putteth bounds to the  Sea, and,
faith hither thou flhalt eomeand no further, doth not, out
of his great mercy, put a ftop to their further incurfions,
they may probably obtain and conferve a far larger Em-
pire, and even ali Europe,  unto the Wefiem Ocean.

Certain it is that they are unfatisfied with their prefent
bounds and look beyond Hmgaria ,  and I have heard thein
fay, wemuft in due tirnecome to Beatch , for fo they calj
Fiema,  and try our fortunes again.

At this day the Star and Half-mcon are above the Crofs,
hpon the Steepleofthe Cathedral Chureh of St. Stephen ,
in the Einperour of Germanj  his Imperial City of Vienna i
and kgrieved me to Tee in ali the Confmes a fortof Crofs
whichow Heralds do not dream of, which is a Crofs Lu-

nated

\  »3;

natedafter this manner, \vbereby thelnhabitantsasthey
teftifietheirChriftianicy, fo they acknowledg thc TurktjJj
power.

*

A Crofs with Half-moons fetover theChurchesin the
Country which payeth contribution to thc Tmks  in Hm-
gary.

The Star and Half-moon upon the Steeple of S. Stepbetfs
Church a iVietm*.

M a

A JOUR-

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C 85 )

AJOURNET

F ROM

KOMARA

OR

G O M O R Ar

TO THE

M I N E-T O W  N S

m

H U N GA R Y;

AND F ROM THENCE TO

V I E N N A-

B E IN G at Kemra,  and having fatisfied my
curiofity as far thatway as the Chriftian Domi-
nions extended. I purfued my intention of fee-
ing the Copper, Sil ver andGold Mineš in Hm-
gary \  and being iinwilling to return againto
Pus&urg  fo far about to get into the road tdwards tliem ;
I attempted a nearer paffage, although there be few who
go that way. And therefore I travejied along the North-

Shozt

' ( V6 )

fhoar of the Ifland of Schut , till I čarne to the Conflueace
of the River Waag  and Danube , and then pafied over to
a Fortifkation raiied fince the laft war, called Gutta  it
Iyeth in a Mariih ground.between a branch of the Da-
nube , the Waag,  and the Srvartz,  within a mi!e ofNeveheva-
[el;  which vve p!ainly faw frotn the Steeple of the Church
at Gutta,  andcoulddiftinguifh the buildings vvithin it
as the Baffas  Palače fonnerly belonging to the Arch-Bi-
fhep of 1 ‘resburg.  TheChurch in the middle of the Town,
the Tower to the ploske , and others. Their Boats here
are of one pieceof wood, in\vhich notwith/iandingthey
ventiire themfelves, and paffe the greateft Rivers with
thenr; in this Fort vvere 130. mencommandedbyCaptain
Matthias Fruhrvurdt.  From hence by Forchatz  we came
to SchelLa , where there is another Fort built to hinder the
Turksfrom  pafiingthe River Waag,  for hereaboms the Tar¬
tan  broke over, burned and ruined the whoIe'Country
about in the late war, in fucha manner, that itremains ftill
defolate; at half a rniles diftance from this plače is a hole
in the Earth \vhich burnslike Solfaterra  by Nap le s.  Frotn
hence we vvent to Schinta  a Jarge Fort,and built  long fince
:to cotntnand the River and the Country about. There is  a
Tower in the middle, Four Baftions and many good pieces
of Canon. At the entrance there hangetha greatRib, a
Thigh-bone and a Tooth,which I judged tobe of an E^e-
phant,having feen the Skeleten  of one: and alfo fnch bones
as thefe hang up before the Emperours Houfe at Laxam-
bourg , thofe bearing the name of the bones of a great Hea-
then Virgin; and thefe ofaGyant. We came aftenvards
to Leepoljldt '■>  a noble regular Fortification withfixBa-
ftions, where the youngCount de Souches  commanded, to
vvhom I delivered Letters, and received manyfavours
from him. Afcerwards I pafied the River and came to
freijlat , a lar^e fair Townbut la{ely burned by the Turk.

Counc

Gount Forchat-z,  hath a handfbme Caftle here , and a lafge
Houfe in the Tovvn, whereof I took the draught.

The iMherans  had alfo a School or Colledge here, but
ruined.vvith the reft of the Euildings. 'They are Tributa-
ries to the Burk , pay ing yearly eightt Hungarifche , almc ft;
four pence of our mony, for every head, whitherof Man,
Woman, Children,Sheep,Oxen, or Hor-fes. The Children
are educated to hardfhip, and the Women feldonie marry
twice. They bathe much,and ufe fvveating naked in Stoves,
holding their feet in warm water. They ufe Cuppmg-
glalfesalfo very muchand fcarrifications. In the Con ven c
of the FrAncijcms , were onely twelve Friers left; and the
Formn  Chrittians in thefe parts have fevv other Priefts but.
Monks.

Two FlungArim  miles from FreijFat  lyeth Ba»ca ■,  where
in a low ground near the River are fifteen Baths; into
three of whieh the River-water is now entred., the River
J-Vaag  continually vvearing out its banks by reafon of its
rapid courfe. Twenty years finoe there were alfo hot-
Baths on the other fide of the River, but are novv covered
with the cold  ilrcam. Thefe Baths leavea white fedimer.t:
in ali places, and tinge Copper and Sil ver immediately as
blackaslnk : Hard by thefe Bathsis a Quarry of Stone,
and fome Veins of Chalk, which were very pleafmg to be-
hold,the Chalk being of ali colours except green, and the
eolours fofraely mixed, as a painting, or marblePaper
doth not equal it.

We being here Hpon the 18. of March , and thevveather
verycold, had no thoughtsof bathing info open a plače;
though in foine of them we faw Women and Children ;
and the Hujfar  who drove our Chariot hither,after we had
fupped, went out, and in a very hard froft pulled oft bis
cloaths in the open Medow at midnight, and bathed hira 11
felf in one of thofe Baths.

C 38  )

March  the 21. Grajf Souches  fene us German  Mufqueteers
' to convoy us through the Contribution Country, and de-
fend us inour travels; we palTed by Ripnich , and a Cafi J e
at Decatzi,  belonging to Baron Benini , and came at night
tO-2 opolehan  upon the River Nit ra ., where the Town with
the Church were burnt in the laft war, and had not well
recovered it feif again. A mile from hence at Bellitz  are
aifo hot Baths. The next day by Glefeb,the  Jnhabitants of
vvhich plače were ali carried away Captives in the lafl
wars, and through a great wood by Hccbveife , where the
Inhabitants were moft Germms.  We came to Sernoveitz
feated upon the River Gran,  where is -a Caftle upon a
Rock, but the Town is Tributary to the Turks , and they
often vifit it. March  23. We palfed the River Gran  early
• in rhe morning, and came among the HiJIs to Hcdrytz , by
whic-hTovra runneth a fvvifc ftream very ferviceable to
them jwhich helpeth tomovetheirEngines employed ih
the poundi ng, wafhing and melting of the Silver-ore. We
travelled overaMountain called Hell , and came to Schem-
' nit z , the greateft of the Minejo wns in Hungary:  and
where great quantity of Silver-ore is every daydigged.
TheTown is well built, hath three fairGhurches in it, the
greateft partof the Inhabitants are Lutherans. Thereare
alfo three Caftles here ; the old Caftle in the Town,where
there is Wind-Mufick at fix every morning, and at twelve,
and at fix at night. 2. The New-Caftle, built by aLady
who removed theGibbet from this Hill,and lefc a fair buil-
ding in lieu of it ;  the third is on a high peak,where there
is a continuahvatch kepttodifcover the approach of the
'Turks , who immediately give notice of it by the fhpoting
off a Culverin. The Streets lye up and down Hill, the
Country hereaboutsbeingall very uneven.

There are very many Mineš here, and many adventurers
are induced to try their fortunes by the good fuccefs fo

many

C 89 )

many have had : forifthey finda Vein of Oreinany rea-
fonable time, before they have quke fpent their Stocks in
digging, they may probably expe6 great profit.

Thefe Mineš amongft others are very remarkable • the
Wmd[chacht  Mine, the irinitjr , that of Sr. Benedičt , St.
Jehn, Mattbias , and one called the three Kings;  but the
chiefeftand moft wrought are thofe of Windfibacht  and
"trinitj/. 1rinity-Mine  is feventy fathoms deep, built and
keptopenwithunder-work at a great expence, muchof
this Mine being in an earthy foyl, The Ore of it is much
efteemed,and is commonly of ablack colour covered vvith
a white Earth or Clay; fo that the ftreams where they
work it, become milky and whitifh, and is that fubftance
I fuppofe which is called Lac Lana^ca^the  Milk of the
MoonorSilver. Divers Veins in this Mine lyeNorth, and
other rich Veins run to the North-Eafl. When two Veins
crofs one another they efteem it fortunate ; fo that ali
Veins of Ore keep not the farne point even in the farne
Mine, which vvould be an help to difcover them; but
they have no certain way to know either vvhich way they
run, or where they are, till by induftriousperfevering in
thelabourof the Mineš they are at laft found out. They
ufe not the Virgula divina,  or forked Hazel-ftick to direft
thera,havingnoopinionof it, (as I obferved they had at
the Silver Mine at Friburg  in Mifnia , where I alfo learned
theufethereof') but digalwayes as the Adventurers de*
fire. They fliew’d me one plače, which they had digged
ftreight on fix years, when the Ore was but two fathoms
diftant from the plače where they firft began: and in ano¬
ther plače they digged twelve years outright, and at laft
found a Vein which in a (hort time paid their charges. I
was*inmany parts of this Mine, and went fo far, that at
length I paffed quice under a Hill, andcameoutontheo-
ther fide t

N

In

C 9 ° ')

In Wtnd[chacht-Mine  wherein I alfo dcfcencled -as far as
■ the water would then permitme, defcending thricealmoft
perpendicular!y about-three hundred large fteps or ftares
of a Ladder. 1 obferved a large Wheel deep in the Earth,
of tvvelve yards Diameter; turned abou c by the fall of
fubterraneous Waters. This Wheel moves Engines which
putnpout the waterfroin thebottomof the Mine, up to
the cavity wherein this Wheel is placed. The \vater \vhich
moves this Wheel falls nolower into the Mine, but paket h
away through a Cuniculus  made on purpofe, through which
both this and the other wacer pumped from the deepeft
parts of the Mine, dorunout together at the footof an
"Hill* Belides this Wheel there is another above ground
which lyeth Horizontally drawn about qontrauaily by
tv/elve Horfes,which fervethalfo to pump outnmchofthe
waterof this Mine; aboutall the Works whereof, I was
informed that there vvere no lefs then two thaufand men
employed.

In forne places of the Mine it is very cold,and in others
fo hot, that to refrefh my felf I was conftrained to go vvith
my bre/t naked 5  akhough I ha d only  iinnen CJoaths on.
Where they work it is alwayes hot, fo that they labour
nakedfbr eight hours if they are able, and then reft eight
’ hours more.

In this Mine they fhewedme a plače vVhere five men and
a Perfon of qualicy were deftroyed by a Damp,for which
reafon they have now placed a Tube there, the 1 i ke they
plape over ali doors, and over ali wayes vvhere they djg
right oft for a greatfpace, and have no paffage through;
whereby tiie air is let in, let out, er carried round, and the
Miners under-ground ventilated with it.

The blackifhOre is efteemedthe beft ;  much of it hath
- a mixture of a fhining yeilow fubftance or
vvhich if it be not in toogrut a quanti ty is not unvvel-

come,

C 9' )

come, by reafon that it difpofeth the Ore to fLiidity, or
renders it more eafie to be melted; but if it be in too great
a proportion, they are of opinion, that it preys upon the
Silver in the Mine ; and in the Furnace carrieeh it away
while it meltetb,by over-volatilizing it;and therefore they
term it a Robber, as a fubftance which fpoyls and takes a-
way the richnefs of the Ore.

There is often founda red fubftance vrhich grows to the
Grecalled Cinnaber  of Silver, which being grinded with
Oyl maketh a Vermillion equal to, if not furpaftingthe
Cinnaber  madeby fublimation.

There are alfo found in thefe Mineš, Cryfials^methyjls,
and Amethyftme  mixtures in the clefts of the Rocks, and
fometimes nigh or joyned to the Ore; as alfo Vitriolna-
turally cryftalliz’d in the Earth in divers of thefe Mineš ;
and particularly in a Mine in Paradife Hill;  which then
belonged to Mr. Jacobus Schrviboda  an Apothecary, at
whofe Houfe I Iodged, and who prefented me with many
curious Minerals.

And as there is great variety in the Silver-Ore, as to its
mixtures ,with Partb, St one s ^ Marcbajite, Cinmber ,Vitriol y
(frc.Soalfb  in its r ichnefsjfome holding a great proportion
of Silver in refpeft of others. An hundred pound weight
of Ore fometimes yields but half an punce or an ounce of
Silver; fometimes two ounces, three,four, frve, and unto
twenty ounces; what is rieher is very rare, yet fome hath
been found to hol d half Silver, and Ihavefeen of itfo
rich, as to becut with a knife.

A Specimen of each fort of Ore which they digput or
the Mineš is carried upon its firft being difcovered td  an
Officer called the Probierer , who is to prove andjudge
of its richnefs; which he doth in thismanner. Ofall forcs
of Ores he taketh the farne quantity, the Ores being firft s
dry ed, burned, and pounded, he giveth an equal propor-

Na tion

C 92 )

tion of Iead to ali, melceth and purifieth them, and then by
cxaft Scales takes notice of the proportion between the
Ore and the Metal contained in it, andreports it tothofe
emp!oyed in thegreat melting Furnaces ; who according-
]y  add or diminifh the quantities of thofe fublfances vvhich
are to be mixed with the Ores to nielt them in the melting
Furnace; as forexample, to an hundred centen or ten
thoufand pound vveight of Silver-Ore, vvhich hokleth a-
bove two ounces and an half of Silver in an hundred
pounds weight, they add forty centen of Letch , vvhich
is Ore pounded and waihed ; tvvo hundred centen of Iron-
Stone, vvhich is not Iron-Ore, but a Stone found in thofe
Hills, of which the liver coloured is the beft. A quantity
of Kis , or a fort of Pyr 'ttes , accordingas the Ore \smixed
with Marchafite,  and of Skoke n  asmuch as theypleafe.
This laft is the icum or cake taken off from the top of the
Pan into which the Metals run, and is a fiibftance made ouc
of the former mentioned, by fufion.

NVhatfoever is melted in the melting Furnace, is let out
through an hole at the bottom thereof into the Pan, vvhich
is placed in the Earth before it; and thus expo^d, it im-
mediately acquires an hard ffum/irofs^oafor cake,vvhich
being continua!ly taken away, the Metal remaining be-
comespurer; to vvhich is addedlead vvhichcarrieth ali the
Silver down to the bottom with it, and after Torne time the
melted Metal is taken out; then being again melted in the
drivingFurnace, the Iead or vvhat elferemains mixtwith
the Silver is driven off by the blovving of two great bel-
lows ; and runs over from the melted Silver in form of Li-
tharge.  That which firft comes over, is the vvhite and that
vvhich comes laft being longer in thefire,is the red,not that
it is Litharge ofGold, bothbeing driven off from the farne
Meta'.

Moft of the Schemnitz*  Silver-Ore holds Tome Gold

vvhich

( 63  )

which they feparateby melting thcSilver, then granulating
it, and aftervvards by diffolving it in Jqmfortis  madeout
of apeculiar Vitriol preparedat Chremmtz , vrhcrebv the
Goldislefcatthe bottom and is aftervrards melted • tbe
Jquxfortu  is diftilled frotn the Si Iver, and ferveth again
for ufe. But it vvould be tootcdious todefcribe ali the
works of thefe Mineš which do well deferve as accurate
Defcriptions as thofe of , and other parts

of which Jgricola.  batiKtvritten largelv, and very vvell in
tliš Books De re Metalhca & de foffihbm. Lenys  aifoof
Mine-works is efteemed, and Ltzarus Erker  hath hand-
fo.nely defcribed the principal Ores and Mineral bodies.
But certainly there are few places in theWorld to be com-
red with this, where Art and Nature ftrive to thow their
utmoftforceand riches.

They work in this Country much after the manner thev
did in the Eraperour Rudolj/htu  his time; who was a great
undertaker and encourager of Mine-works; but, many of
their Inftruments and Engines are much improved.

Notmthftanding the great quantity of Silver madee-
very vveekat Schentnitz  and carried away in Carts,! found
fome d.fficulty to procure the leaft piece there, and icarce
■any one in the Town could furnifh me with any that was
pure, for the Mohey of the Country is mixed with above
half Copper, and being defirous to fee what alteration di-
versof thofe Mineral-waters in that Country, wou(d make
upon Metals; for want of other Silver, I was forced to
make ufeof filver Crofles, Gručifixes and Medals, which
I borrowed.

Near unro Schemnitz , where old Schemnitz  ftoodj is an
high Perpendicular Rock, part of vvhich frotn the botrom
to the top is natura!ly tindiured with a fhiningfair blue,
fome green, and fpots of yellow in it. At firil fight I was
muchfurprifed with the beauty of it, and could fancy

nothing

C 94 )

nothing like it, but a wholeRock of polifhed Lapis La-
zdi:  and I have heard from a Spaniard  who iived long in
the Wefi-lndies  , that there is alfo a Rock like this nigh to
the Silver Mineš in Eeru.

At Glas-Hittea , an Hungman  mile, or about feven En-
glijh  miles fron. Scbemnitz.  There was formerly a rich
Gold Mine, butat .s  ,loft, no man knowing where the en-
trance was fince the time that Bethlem Gabor  ovcr-ran that
Country, and the Inhabitants fled avvay. The Ovvner
notvmhftanding left fomemarks and direčtions whereby
they might difcover it, with the Figures ofhis Inftruments
upon the Barks of Trees; which Inftruments they have
alreadyfound by digging in the Earth, and thusmuchis
intimated to thetn, that where they find a Stone, on which
a Face is carved, they are then at it, and are onely to re-
move part of a Ročk with which the Ovvner /iopped up
the Mine.

This plače is muchfrequented, by reafonof its natural
hotBathes, of wh\ch there are five very convenient, with
handfome defcents into -them, and covered over with
large high Roofs. The Springs are veryclear , the Sedi¬
ment is red and green, the wood and feats of the Baths  un-
der vvater are incruftated witha ftony fubftance, and Sil¬
ver is guilded by beingleft in them : But the moft remark-«
ableof thefe Baths, is thatwhichis called the fweating
Bath, whofe hot Springs drain through an Hill, and fall in¬
to a Bathbuilt to receive thetn; at one end of which by
afcendingl went into a Cave which is rnade a noble Stove
by theheat of thefe 'Iherms , and fo ordered with Seats,
that every one v/ho (its in it, either by choodng anhigher
pr a lower feat, may regulate his fvreating, or enjoy what
degree of heat he defireth. This Cave, as alfo the fides of
the Bath are covered by the continual dropping of thofe
hot Springs , with a red, white, and green fubftance, very
fair and pleafmg to the eye. Bath-

C 95  )

Bathing my fclf in the largeft of thefe Baths when there
were agreat many men and women in it; an a&ive man
todivert the Company,had private!y conveyed hknfelf to
the top of the Houfe which covered the Eath, and on a
fodain caft himfelf downinto thewater , and hy taking
hold upon the bottom of the Seats kept himfelf imder wa-
terfor fonie time ; aftervvards a Serpent coming in to the
Bath through a channel v, hich conveyed the vvater into it,
manyof the women were afrighted at it. He ftiil to con«
tinue his fervice and good will to the Company,. was the
Bril that wou!d encouncer it, and cleliver the Damfels;
vvhichhe did ina fhort time,fo fuccefsful!y,that he catighr
the Serpent in both his hands, and holding it out of the
vvater, ptic it into his mouth, and bit the head off. Eeing
taken with his good hlitnour,lafterwards fent for him into
the Store; and finding that he had been empIoyed in the
Mineš, I asked him amongother things,whither hehad feen
any natnral Vitriol,and vvhere, in the Mineš, cryftallized
inlumps, pure and ready for ufe , which he faid he had in
many piaces, but in the greateil quantity, in a Mine now
givenover; by reafon that in iome piaces  the Earth was
fallenin, vvhich was near to Schemmtz:  And according]y
twoor threedays after he-came to fee me at Schemmtz^
brought me Lamps and Mine-mens habi ts for tny felf, and
two Eriends more ; and we went with him under ground,
till Icame where he fhew’d me great quantitiesof it,innch
to my facisfačlion: the Vitriol there fhooting upon the
Stones and Earth, upon the floar and fides of the paflages,
as it doth by art in the Pans, and about thefticks ,noc
hanging from the top, as in many other piaces I have feen it,
like to Ice-icles.

• GUfi-hitten  belongeth to the Counf of of whofe
Family v/as the Learned Eoljcarpus Frocopm Eoca;uzs
vvho vvas lent fome time paft by. the Arch-Bilhop of

Ercshurg

(  96  ) ’

Presburg  to give an account of the rarities of thefe Couo-
tries; but his death hindred the publifliing of his obfer-

X 3 X Jai[enb<ich  about four Englijb  milts from Glafs-hitten,
and fiveor fix from Sehemmtz,  hath alfo hot Baths; the
Sediment of which is red, and turneth into ftone; fo thac
I brought away with me pieces of it of five or fix inches
diameter: I took alfo alargepiece of this vvater petri-
fied as it fell from a fpout in which the waves of it are to
befeen; but the fpout it felf although madeof wood,
was not at allchanged, as lying under it. Hovvever, thofe
Trees with which they built the fides of theBathwerefo
petrified, that thofe which lay next above the water, were
ihtirely turned into Stone. And it was not unpleafant to
obferve how nature did here alfift art,and out of the body
of a Firre-Tree franje a Column of Stone. Nor is it
much to be wondred at, that the wood under the water
fhould remain unalterd whilft that above fuffered fo great
achange. Thefe waters are hot, and part of whatfoever is
contained in them is fufficiently Volatilized to be carried
up wkh the fteam of the Bath, and I remember in the
Bath of the Green Pillars at Buda, I  took notice, that the
exhalation from the Bath reverberated by the high CupoU
built over it,and by the Irons extended from one Column
to another, and by the Capitals of the Pillars was formed
into longStones like lce-icles , which hangtoall the faid
places, fuch asmay beobferved in many fubterraneous
Gretto’s  , and particularly in Enghni  in Okgy-hole  in So-
merfet-Jhire , and Pooles-hole  in Darbjr-Jhire. Sulphur  alfo
which is ingreat quantity in many hot Springs flyetha-
way continually, and is not to be found in them, if you
boyl or evaporate the Bath water: and therefore to difco-
ver it,I thought it more rational to look outof thewater
theninto it; neither was I more deceived in my con-

;edure,

( 97  )

conječture, then he who looked towards the Weft, rather
then tovvards the Eaft tofeethe riling of thefun. For
upon many places vvhich were over the Eathes, and recei-
ved the fteams ofthe hot vvater, I ha ve feen Sulphur  toftick;
and to fatisfie my curiolity further herein, I caufed once
a Pipe to be opened a tBaden  in ^fo/?m,through vvhich the
hot vvater continual!y ran,and took vvith my hand from the
upper part of the Pipe, divers Boxes-full of a fubftance
fcarce to be diftinguifhed from Flower of Briinftone.
Walking about alfo one day in the Sorver Bath atBaden, and
leaning over the Balliftres to talk with fome Friends vvho
were then bathing themfelves ;  I perceived that my But-
tons and vv.hat elfe Ivvoreof filver,were ali tnrned yellovv of
a fair Gold colour T  although I were at fome diftance from
the vvater. Which made me try this experiment alfo,vvhich
was to hang money over the Bath at a foot diftance, or at
a greater, to fee what alteration it vvouldmake, and hovv
foon ; which it coloured in aminutes time, and that vvhich
was nearer in half a minute.

But to returnto JLijenbach , there are two convenient
Baths much frequentea, and a third vvhich is made by the
vvater let out of the former, called the Smkes-bath,  from
thenumber ofSnakes comiag into, and delighting in it
when it is filled with thefe vvarm vvaters.

March  the thirtieth, I travelled from Schemnitz,  by
Glafs-Hitten , and Apfelsdorff,  vvhere there is a Houfe of the
Arch-Bifliop of Bresburg ; and aftervvards pafted the
River Grm  and came in hetween the Hills; vvhere in one
plače they have thrown up the Earth, and made a work
from one ridge of the Hills to the other, to defend the
Country, and hinder the Turkifb  Excurfions tovvards
Chremnitz ,: aftervvards we proceeded by that Golden
River and yellow Stream vvhich vvaflieth ali the Ore aBove
till we came to the Town.

O Cbrem-

( 98  )

Chemnitz,  is a finali Town, but hath large Suburbs,
and lyeth high, St. Jehns  Church at lome diHance from it,,
is thought to band upon the higheft ground in Bungary.
This is the oldeffc Mine- fown, and the richeft in Goid of
ali the feven in thefe parts, whicb are thefe, Scbemnitz>.
Chremnitz,, Nevofil, Koningsberg , Bochantz, Libeten  and
Tih.

They have worked in the Gold-Mine at Chremnitz  nine
hundred and fifty years; the Mine is about nine or ten
Englijb  miJes in iength, and there is one Cunicuhu  or Ho¬
rizontal paffage which is eight hundred fathoms long,  cal-
ied the Erbjlall.  The depth of it is above one hundred and
feventy fathoms j they do not ufe Ladders to defcend in-
to this Mine, but are let down at the end of a Cable, un-
to vvhich is fafined a fling, or feat of Leather; the Leather
being broad, and divided ordinarily into two or three
parts, fo that it is to beftiifted or changed as you fin d con-
venience, and affords no uneafie feat even to fuch as are
not ufed to it. And in this manner , whofoever entreth the
Mine is let down. Through one of the Schachts  or perpen-
dicular Pits, of which there are fix. j. Thacof Rodol-
phus.  2. Queen Jnne.  3. Ferdinand.  4. ^EMatthias.  5. Wind-
fchacht,  and 6 . Leopold.  I went downby the Pit of the
Emperour Rodolpbtts , gently defcending by the turning a-
bout of a large vvheel to which the Cable is faftned , one
hundred and eight fathoms dee p into the Earth; and after
inanyhours being in the Mine, was drawn outagainby
Leopoldi Scbacht , or Leopolds  Pit, orShaft, ftreight upa-
bove one hundredand fifty fathoms; a heigth furpaffing
that of the Pyramids by a third parf; At the bottom of
\vhieh Scacht  I wasnot difcouraged to find my felf fo deep
in the earth, for confid er ing that I was yet above.three thou-
fand miles from the Cen ter,I thought my felf but in a Well.
It is buiit on ali fides with Firre-Trees one laying upon

another

C 99 >

another on four fides froai the bottorn to the top, and
afterthefame mannerall thefe Mineš are kept open where
they have not a Rock on ali fides.

Many Veins of the Ore run to the North, and to the
Eafi:; They work alfo towards one, two, or three of the
clock, as they fpcak; for the Miners direčt themfelves
nnder-ground by a Compafs not of thirty two points
(fuch as is ufed at Sea) but by one of twenty four, which
they divide as we do the hours of the day into twice
twelve. Of the Gold-Ore fome is white, fome black, fome
of it red, and fome yellow. That with black fpots in white
is efteemed the beli, as alfo the Ore which lyeth next to
the black Veins. This Ore is not rich enough to fuffer any
proof in fmall parcels, like that ©f other Mineš, whereby
to know what proportionof Metal is contain’d in it; but
they pound a very great quantity thereof, and waih it in a
iittle River which runneth near the Town: The whoIe
River being divided and admitted into divers cuts, runs
over the Ore c©ntinually, and fo wafheth away the earthy
parts frotn the MetaUin, andffom a clear River above the
Town, by its running through fo.many works, and over
fo much pounded Ore,it becomes below the Town a dark
yellow Stream, of thecolourof theEarthof thofe Hills.
Unlefs it be upon fix days of the year; two at Chrijimus^
two at Eafter , and two at IVhitjmtide , when the River it
felf asweilasthe Mine-inen ceafeth from working, and is
permitted to flow clear within its own Banks.

There have been pieces of pure or Virgin Gold Found
in this Mine, fomeofwhich I have feen in the Etnperours
Treafury, and in the Eleftor of Sax 0 n/s  Repofitory, one
pieceas broad as the palm of my hand,and others lefsjand
upon a white Stone many pieces of pure Gold; but thefe
areveryrare.

The common yellow Earth of the Couqtry near Ckrem*

O 2 mtz>y

( 100  )

»i/£,efpecia!ly of theHillstowarcIs the Weft, although it
be no: efteemed Ore, affords forne Gold. And in one plače
1 faw a great part ofan Hill digg’d away, which hath been
caft into the works, wafhed and Wrought in the farne man-
ner,as pounded Ore with confiderable profit.

M.atthus Dollinger  the chief Officer at Chremnitz,  for
the Mine-work , hath alfo lately invented a Mili to pound
the Ore finer then it was before; and by this invention hath
obtaineda coniiderablequantity of Goldout of that Ore
wnich otherwife would have yielded none ;  in hisHoufe
I iaw many forts of Minerals, and was very kindly enter-
tained by him ; and when I vvas at the bottom of the Gold-
Mine he fent me down a prefent ofexcelIent Wine to drink
the Emperours health,

SomepalTages in this Mine cut through the Rock and
long difufed, havegrown up again; and Iobfervedthe
fidesof forne vvhich had been formerly wide enough to
carry their Ore through , to approach each other; fo as
we paffed with difficulty •, this happens moft in moill
places, the paffages unite not from the top to the bottom,
but from one fide to another.

They carry their Ore underground from one plače to
another; or to the bottom of the Pit whence it is drawn
out, inaBox or Cheft which they call a Hundt or Dog;
this runs vipon four wheels, is higher behind then before,
andhathatongueoflronatthe bottom, vvhichbeingfit-
ted into a channel of wood framed in the middle of the
bottom of each paffage, it can no ways deviate, but keeps
allwayes in the middle ; and by this rneans a little Boy
will run full fpeed with three or four hundred pound
weight of Ore or Earth before him, whereveryou com-
mand him , without any light, through thofe difmal dark
paffages of the Mine: and it was very new to me to hear
therattling theymakeinthe Mine, and the alterationof
,~ v , . rhe

c i°i ;

the found as they are nearer or further from us; and to Tee
them come with that fwiftnefs out of the Rocks o?ertum
their llttle Charriot,where they are to leave their Ore, then
turnagainand enter thofe dark Caves with fuch a force and
fwiftnefs.

Notmuch unlikethis is another inftrument they have to
bring the Ore from the raouth of the Mine,or from the Hilis
down to the Buchvporke  where they pound it and wafh it;
but inftead ofa tongue it hath eight wheels or four rowlers
and four wheels,and the way is made withFirre in fuch man-
ner and at fuch a diftance that therovders rowle upon the
woodof the Firre-trees. And thefe rovvlers and whcels are
fo contrived, that thefe Chefts can never overturn nor go
out ofthe way , and a child draweth them , and fometimes
a dog.ferves the turn. To one Buchvoorke  alone, they carry
every week three or four hundred of thefe Chefts fuU, and
each Cbeft holdeth four hundred pound weighf.

There were two very bad ftrong damps in this Mine
whenl was there , and diversothers that hadnot che like
force to fuffocate in fo fmall a time. One of thefe Damps
was in a Shacht Futeus  or Pit, and the other in a Stali, or
right-on paftage; no Lamps would burn in either of them,
yet the Miners would venture inčo them fbr fome fhort
fpace of time: and we let one man do\vn into that Damp
which was in the Pit five or fix times; but pulied him up
againasfoonaseverwefawhisLampgoout; thisplaceis
moft poyfonous when the water is high, the vapour then
ariiing more ftrong'ly 3 the other Damp in the Cuniculus  they
hopeto remedy by perflation, and making or digging
another paftage into it.

Iwasinformed that there had beeentwenty eight men
killedat one time, by Damps in four Gtmicult , feven in
each; and in the finking of Leopolds  Pit, they were much
troubled with Damps which they remedied in this manner.

They ;

( io2 ;

They fixed to the ficle of the Schacht  or Pit a Tube
from the top to the bottom; and that not proving fuffi-
cient they forced down a broad fiat board which covered
orftoppedthe Pit, or couchedvery nearthefides of it
on ali iides,butwhere the Tube was; and fo forced out ali
the Air in the Pit tbrough the Tube; wbich work they
vvere forced often to repeat. And now they having divers
other paflages into it, the Air is good and fufficient, and I
was drawn up through it without the leaft trouble in
breathing.

Jltermms  Fore-ftall, a Cuniculm  five hundred fathoms
Iong, wasburned in theyear 164.2. by the carelefnefs of
a boy vviping the fnufFe of a Lamp upon the wood ;  and fif-
ty men fmothered in it; they were ali taken out except
one, who was afterwards found to be diffolved by the
fharpvvaters of the Mine, nothing efcaping eitherof fleft
or bones, but one!y fome of his cloaths.

There is Vitriol in this Mine,white,red,blue and green;
and alfo Vitriolat waters. There is a fubftance found 1 ,
which fticks to the Gold-Ore of fmall pointed parts like
needles, of a purple colour, and fhining, the  mother of
which is yellow like brimftone, it is called by them Anti-
mony of Gold. There are Cryftals found here, and fome
tinftured yellow.

There is a Vitriol-Mine inthefe Hills nigh the Gold-
Mine,about eighty fathoms deep. The Earth or Ore vvhere-
of is reddilh, and fometimes greenilh. This Earth is in-
fufed in water, and after three days the water is poured
off,and boyledfeven days ina leadenVeflel, till it comes
to a thick granulated whitilh fubftance , which is after-
wards reduced to a Calx-in an Oven, and fervethinthe
making of fortis,  or the feparating water ufed ac
Schemnitz,.

Where they pound the Gold-Ore, they lay afoundation
*"• three

C 103 )

threc yards deep of wood , upon whieb chey plače the
Ore, over which there are four and twenty Beams armed
at the bottom with Iron, vvhich break and grind the Or e,.
it being covered ali the while wi th vvater. Thefe Beams are
moved by four Wheels, one Wheel to fix Beams, the water
vvhich comethout fhotn the pounded Ore, is let into litile.
Pits or Chefts commonly feven or eightone after another;
and afterwards into a large Pit of almoft half an Aker of
ground, and then after fetling let out.

TheGold-Ore in pouder-or pounded is called Slich,  of
vvhich that is the richeft vvhich is neareft to the Beams
vvhere it is firft pounded. They work chus day and night
continually. The Candles which they make ufeof areof '
Firre or fome Ref.notis wood.

They take the Slicb  vvafhed fo long as perhaps in an hun-
dred pound vveight,there may be half an ounce or an ounce
of Gold and Silver, the greateftpart ordinarily Gold,
two thirds generally. (For the Chremnitz  Gold-Ore
is feldom without fome nhxture of Silver, and the beft
of the Schemnitz  Silver-Ore yieldeth an eighth part of
Gold ipproportion to the Si Iver;,) to this Slich they zdd
Limeftone and Sclacken, and melt them together in the
melting Furnace.

This firft melting produceth a fubftance called Le c h-,
this Lech  they burn wifh Cbarcoal to make it lighter, to
©pen its body and render itporous, and then it is called

Reft'

To the Roji  they add Sand as they fee occafion, and melt
it again in the melting Furnace; then let it out into the
Pan, and proceed as in the melting of Silver.

They have divers other wayes to get the Gold outof  the
pounded Ore, and I cannot omit to fet down this one , in
vvhich they proceed without Lead.

They waCh the pounded ore eften, andlay it inponder

upon


C 104 )

.upon Cloaths, and by the gentle obIique defcending of the
vvater over it, and their continual ftirring it, the earthy,
clayifh,and lighter parts are vvafiit away , vvhile the hea-
vier and uietalline remain in the Cloath, not much unlike
to this proceeding is that vvith Sheep-skins and Wooli,
which they plače either in the water which comes from the
vvorks, or in rivolets which have their Heads hid in Hiils
and Mountains rich in Gold; fo thatwhi]e the wateraad
fiuid parts pafs throngh or over thetn, the more folid, hea-
vy  andmetalJineare infnared; and by this way fome have
obtained theGolden Fleece. But to continue the manner
of working with cloaths, they vvafli the cloaths in vvhich
the Ore doth ftick in feveral Tubs, and the water after
fome fetling is pour’d off from its Sediment; which Sedi¬
ment is again vvafiit and ftirr'd up in feveral VefTelsand
Troughs, till  atiength they fprinkle Quick-fil ver upon it,
and knead it well together for an hour or two; and then
vvafhing it again in a wooden Veffel , after the feparating
ofmuchof it,which the Quick-filver toucheth not, by
ftriking this Veflel againft their leg, they bring the Gold
and Quick-filver together in an Amalgama, to  one^ corner
of it. From this Amalgama  they ftrain as much of the
Quick*filver as they can through courfe cloaths firft, and
then through fine. They put the Mafs remaining upon a
perforated Plate, which they fet over a deep Pan placed
in the Earthj in the bottom of vvhich Pan they alfo put
Quick-filver: This Pantbey cover, and lutethe cover
well, and then make a Charcoal fire upon it, and drive
down the Qu'tck-filver yet remaining in the Gold to the
reli in the bottom of the Pan; and then taking out the Gold,
they caft it into the fire that it may ftill become purer.

After fome few days having feen the moft remarkable
curiofities of Chremnitz , I vvent to Nevpjel ; paflingthofe
Hiils vvhich Iieonthe Eaft-fide of Chremnitz , upon the

top

C f°5 ) -

top of one of wbich lyeth a vaft Stone or Rock alone by
it felf, ncar the way-fide; thefe Hills afford wood for ti,e
Service of the Gold-Mine. Paffing on further we werc
not far from Lila , a Village where they find Quick-ffver;
andafterwe had travelled over the Quick-filver Mills, we
čarne again to the River Gran , n pon which Neveri  frand-
eth; thereis aBridge of wood topafs the River at this
Town, and an handfom building of Piles flioring crofs the
River to ftop the wood thrown into this River, ten miles
higher, where the Country is very full of wood: and by
this Artifke withouc labotir or charge, it is conveyed to
Ne%vfol,  to beufed in the working of the Copper-Ore,
and in theburning, melting, cafting, hammering of the
Copper.

Nervfil  is an handfom Tovvn, and hath a large JPiazza ,
at the upper end vvhereof ftandeth a fair Tower. The Ca¬
fi le alfo is vvorth thefeeing, in vvhichis the Church co-
vered over with Copper; within the Church there are ma-
ny Figures of carved Wood, and fomeReliques: but be-
ing in the pofteflkmof the Lutherans  thev are not much re-
garded , though carefully preferved. As I alfo obferved
infome Luther an Churches in Germany , as at Nurentberg,
and ^Magdeburg,  where fome Reliques had been lefc;
vvhich tbey have not parted with, but ftill keep as rari-
ties.

At this Tovvn, and near unto it,are the greateft Copper-
works in Hungarjt , the body of the Copper being very
Rrongly United to its Stone bed, or Ore, thefeparation of
it is effe&ed with great labour and difficulty ; for the
Copper-Ore takenoutof the Mine is burned and melted
fourteen times before that it becomes Rt for ufe; and firffc
it is melted with a Stone vvhich they call Flufs-Jlein , and
its ovvn drofs, and with Kis , or a fort of Fjrites.  It is af-
terwards carricd to the Rojl-hearth , where it is Iayed up-

P on

C T 06  )

on great fracks or heaps of Billets, and thofe fet on fire
under it; by which means it is bumed into a fubftance
called Roji , and this is repeated feven or eight times; af-
terwards it is melted again in the melting Furnace, and at
tvvo Furnaces more at Mzfmlls , and twice at the Hatn-
mer.

Here they alfo meltKžs  which is brought hitherfrom
Jefizt/t  , which fubftance melted is ferviceable in the mel-
tingof Silver.

At not far from hence they get Silver out of

Copper, which they feparate thus: T hey  add Lead to the
Copper when it is melted, and take out the Metals melted
together in Spoons or Iron Diflies. When it is cold they
give it a ftrong fire again as it lyeth upon crofs Bars, untill
the Silver and Lead melteth'and falleth through. When the
Copper hath pafled itslaft melting and isfitforufe, they
cut it in pieces, with great Hammers which arefharp,
to move everyone of whichthereis a Mili on purpofe,
which with great force lifteth up the Hammer: and to
fhape and form it into Velfels orPlates, they have other
Hammers, which are fiat or round according  as they in-
tend to frame the Copper.

The Governour of thefe Works at Nervfol  was highly
obliging,andbefidesthegivingusopportunity of feeing
every thing we defired , he fent me a handfom prefent cf
Wine and Fovvls, and wrotea Letter to the Prsefeft of the
Copper-Mine at Herrn-grundt  to fhevv me every thingthat
was curious and obfervable in that Mine.

Herm-Grttnelt  is a little Townfeated very high betvveen
tvvo Hills, upon a part of Land of the farne name, an Hun-
garian  mile diftantfrom Nevpjbl.  The Country about vvas
then ali covercd with Snow after we came to fuch a
heighth, but in the Valleys,and in our journey from jVrn?-
f>l  hither we met wich none; fo that we found the Aire

very

C I°7 >

very piercing as we pafled towards the entrance of che
MineinMinershabits; which habit confiftsof a Linnen
Coat and Drawers, a ftiff round Cap, like the ero v; n of
a Hat, a leather Apron turned behind, and t\vo pieces of
Leather tyed to the Knees, to defend thofe parts againft
any fudden ftrikingagainft theRocks, or thefall of Earth
upon them. In the Mihe we were wann enough.

I went into this Mine through a Guniculus  called 'lach-
fioln , and continued divers hours in the Mine, and vifited
many of the moft remarkable places in it. The fteep def-
cents in this Mine are made by Ladders or Trees fet up-
right, with deep notches or ftayers cut in them to ftay the
foot upon: They are not troubled with water, the Mine
lyinghigh in the Hill, fo that the water may drain away ;
but they are niolefted with duft 9  which is choaking and
fretting, and alfo with pernicious damps.

In one plače of the Mine they fhewed me the manner
how they had lately cured a very bad Damp by a great
pairof Bellows, which vvere blown continually formany
days; and in divers other places the Damps were fo ftrong
as to hinder the Work-nien very much in their labour, and
thefe Damps are not only men with in places where the
Earth is full of Clay or the like fubftances, but alfo where
it is rocky, and one plače they fhevved me where there had
been a pernicious Damp, and yet the Rockfo hard, that it
could not be broken by their Inftruments; but the def-
cent was ali made by the means of Gun-pouder rammed
into long round holes in the Rock, and fo blovvn up.

Much of this Mine lyeth in the Rocks where thev have
noneedof Wood-work tokeepit open, and fome paf-
fages lye between the Rock and the Earth, fo that they are
kept open upon one fide by Firre-Trees , and on the other
fide with Stone, the paffages alfo are not fo  regular asat
Chemnitz,  for manv here are neither horizontal, nor near

P 2 to


( io8 )

toa perpendicu!ar,fcnt nsodera:ely inclining up and down,
and there are i«any large Cavities vvithin. In one plače
where vvedefcended obliquely to go toa remarkabie part
of the Mine , we found that the Earth had fallen in and
fiopped up the paffage, but one of our Guides unwilling
to go about, and the Earth being vet loofe, he made a Bur-
rough into it and digged his way through, although the
Earth continuaIIy fell upon h im andcovered him; and
got at length through and tumbJed down amongfi: the
Work-men beIow,withagreat quantity of Earth afterhim;
with which they fo fpeedily laded their Barrows and
Hundts ,,of which I fpake before, and the Boys ran away
with thern with fuch fvviftnefs, that in a fhort time he tnade
the paffage clearagainup to the plače where he had lefc
us.

The Veins of this Mine are very Jarge , many of thetn,
fuch as are termed cumulata ,  and the Ore is very rich, in an
hnndred pounds ofOre they ordinarily findtwentypounds
of Copper, fometimes thirty, forty, halfCopper,and even
to fixty in the hundred. Much of the  Ore is joyned fo
faft to the Kock, that tis feparated with  great difficulty,
and in many places the Ore and the Rock are one conti-
nuedBody or Stone, onelywith this difFerence that one
partof the Rock will yield Copper, the othernone;
vvhich is knownand diftinguifhed by the colour, and ea(ily
at firft fight, the Copper-Ore being for the moft part,efpe-
cially the beft of it, either yellow or black; The yellow
is pure Copper-Ore, the black contains alfo a proportion
of Silver.

There aredivers forts of Vitriol found in this Mine,
white, green, blue, and a red clear tranfparent. There is
alfoagreen Earth or Sediment of a green Water, called
Berg-Gru0,ufed  by thePainters; there are likewifeStones
found of a beautifull green and blue colour, and one fort

upon

( io9 )

upon vvhich Turcoifes  have been found, and therefore. cal-
led the Mother.of the JurcoiA

There are alfo two Springs of a Vitriolat Water which
tura Iron into Copper, calied the oid and the new Zi-
3 merit\  thefe Springs lye very deep in the Mine, and the
Iron is ordinarily left in the vvater fourteen days, Thefe
Waters are very profitable , feeing that the worft fortof
Iron, and ufelefs old Iron is hereby turned into the pureft
fort of Copper, whichbath thiscommendationabove o-
ther Copper to be more dudi'.e, malleable, andeafily mel-
ted; and I have melted it without the addition of any
other fubftance, vvithout difficulty. Whilft the Ore of
Copper muli run through fomany F i res and Furnaces to
be brought toany thing. Ofthis fort of Copper I took a
good quantity out of - the.old Ziment , and I took alfo a
pieee of Copper of the Figure of a Heart vvhich ha d been
Iayed in it eleven or tvvelve days before ; having.the fatne
Figure, but as perfedly Iron then,as it is at this day Cop¬
per. Some will not have this to be a Tranfmutation of one
Metal into another, but that this Water of th t Ziment
beingfa tu ra red vvitha Vitfi&lum Veneris , and meeting vvith
fuch a body fj ready to receive it as Mars,it  depofeth Ve~
nui‘,  who immediate!y inftnuateth her felf fo far into Mars .,.
that fhe doth dividere dr imperare , and at laft fhe fubfti-
tutes her own body,and precipitates that of Mars ,

In the changing of, Iron into Copper in thefe Springs,
many parts are indeed ofcen feparated, and lye at the bot¬
rom in pouder, but thefe parts are not Iron but Copper ;
and I have taken of this pouder out of the Spring, and
melted it into exceilent Copper; fo that if the Iron be not.,
changed, I knovvnot what becomes of it. This Opera-
tion vvhich nature fo curioufly performs in the Mine, I
have fmce feen atcempted tobe imitated by Are j and in
my judgment fuccefsfully. .

After '

C ir° ) I

After that I had feen many of tbe moft remarkable
places in the Mine, I returned to the Vemdter  of Hcrrn-
Grmdt  his Houfe, and put my cloaths on again in the
Stove: where we were afcerwards very kindly entertain-
ed. He flievved me a Map of that Mine whereinwehad
fpentmoftpartof that day; and the delineations of ali
thofe places \ve had been at, with a Scale to meafure the
lengths and diftances ofall PafTages and Places in the Mine;
and it was very delightful tofee fo large a Draught or Pi¬
cture of fo fair a Subterraneous City; nor can I terni it
lefs, in which there is more building then in many. The
extent furpaffeth mod, and the number of the Inbabitants
are confiderable, their Order admirable, their Watcbes
exaft , their Reft undifturbed, grateful after Labour and
refrefhing, they repofing themfelves eight hours in the
hollovr of a Rock after the farne time /pent in labour;
befides this Map,he fhew’d me many curiousMinerals taken
out of that Mine,and by heating the Copper-Ore,and caffc-
ing it into water, rnade the water like fome natural
Baths which arife nearthefe Hills. And upon my com-
mending the Ziment  waterand its /1 range Operacion upon
Iron, he prefented me with divers fair pieces, and a chain
of Copper tranfmuted in thofe Springs. They make al¬
fo very handfome Cups and Veflels out of this fort of Cop¬
per, and we drank out of one of them which was gilded
over, and had a rich piece of Silver-Ore,faftned in the mid-
dle ofit; and this Infcription gravedon the outfide:

Eifen w&re ich , Kupfer bin ich
Silbcr trag ich , Geldt bedeckt mich.  i. e.

Copper I am, but.Iron was of old,

SilverIcarry , coverdam vvith Gold.

From

From Herrn-Grundt  we čarne to Stubn , a Town three
Hangar ian  mi les diftant frotn Nervfol,  and two;from Chrem-
nitz\  vvhere nearuntoa Rivolet there aredivershot Baths
of great efteem, and tnuch frequented; the vvater whereof
is very clear and fmells of Sulphur  , the Sediment green ;
it colours the wood over it green and black, but doth not
change the colour of Metals fo foon as moft others• I left
money in it a whole night, vvhich was yet but faintly eo*
loured. The Springs arife underneath, and paffe through
the holes in the plancher of the Baths.

The heat of thefe is anfvverable tothat of the Kings-
Bath in Eng/and ; there are feven in numberThe firft is
the Noblemans Bath, the fecond the Gentlemans, the third
the Country-mans, thefourth the Country-womans, the
fifth the Beggars Bath,the fixth for fuch as are infetted with
the Laesfenerea,  the fevench the Bath of the Gypfies.  Thefe
Baths are in a Plain en co m paffe d on ali fides with Hills,the
nigheft unto them are towards the Eaft; and it is the farne
ridgeof Hillswhich on the other Bde are fo rich in Me-*
tals* 1 bath’d in one of thefe and met good companv tkat
I was detained too long, and received fbnie inconvenience
from the heat of the Bath, nor could I commend their cu-
ftomofeating, drinking , and ileeping muchwhile they
bathed.

From Štab’n Bad  we vvent to Boinitz , crofTmg the River
Nit ra.  and leaving Privitz , a Jarge Town on the left hand.
At Boinitz  there are alfo fivenatural Baths of amoderate
gentle heat delightfull to bathe in, being much beautified
by Count P alfi  Palatine of Hmgary , and ali of them co-
vered under one large roof. The firft is the Noblemans
Bath built of Stone, defcended into on ali fides by Stone-
ftairs; the other four are of wood, very handfo.melj
and well built,where it was a pleafure to us to fee the Boys
andGirles dive fofinely for any thing that we caft in. A-

bo.ut

i 112 )

bout this part of the Country there grovreth very much

SafFron. •

From Boimtz  wewent to Wcfionitz , two llungnrun
mi les, and from Weftonitz  the next day,we arrived at Tre#-
fcbin , which they count four jUungurian  miles ;  but fuch
long ones they are, that we were travelling from before
Sun-rifing till eight of the clock at night, before we could
come to our journeys end.

Erenfhin  is a handfome Town feated upon the River
Waag,  o ver which there is a Eridgeof vvood; -the Etazza
is fair, the Jefuites Church handfome,the Caftle feated ve-
ry high,eafily difcernable at twentyEngli[b  miles diftance,
and belonged to the Graf Jellhafej.  There are two warm
Baths a mile from the Town,and a great number of Springs
of Mineral waters in the Country about. Here we met
with Count Rothallgo  ing froin the Emperour to treat with
"Ab&ffi  Prince of Tranf Ivama  his Commiflioners at Efe¬
rle s  , where I engaged fome of his Attendants to make en-
quiry into the Salt-Mines of that plače, or any other., ac-
cording to the inftrudions I left with them, and after-
wards I received an Account to this efFečh

Half an houfs going from the C\ty of Epcries  in upper
llungarj , there is a Salt-Mine of great note from the firffc
plače of defcent unto the bottom, 'it is about one hundred
and fourfcore fathoms deep. Into this the Miners defcend
firft.by Ropes, and at iafh by Ladders unto the lovver
parts. The Mine is for the moft part inan Earthy, and
not a Rocky ground.

The Veins of Sak are large, and there arepiecesto be
found of ten thoufand pound weight : they commonly
hew out the Sak into long fquare pieces of two foot in
length, and one inthicknefs, and for ufe it is broken and
grinded between two Grind-ftones.

The Mine is cold and inoift, but the Salt being a Stone-

falf,

falt, is not eafily d i (To! ved, or at leaft in arsy great quantity
bydampnefs or moifture ; yetmuchof thewaterof the
Mine is impregnated with falt, in fuch fort that being
drawnout in large buckets, and afterwards boy l’d up , it
afFords a blackifh Salt, vvhich chey give to their Cattle in
that Country.

The colour of the ordinary Stone-falt of fhis Mine is
not very white, but fomevvhat grey ;  yet being broken and
grinded to pouder, it becomes as white as if it vvere refi-
ned, and this Sak confifts ofpointed parts or foflrts. Ano-
ther fort of Salt thereis alfo, which confilfs of Squares
and Tables; and a third to be found of fomewhat ftirious
orlong lhoots.

Npr is ali the Salt of this Mine of one colour, but of
div er sthat  which is found grofly mixt with the Earth
receives lome colour frotn it; and even that which is moft
pure and refenibleth Cryftal, doth often receive tindures
of feveral colours; in the niiddle of a Cryftal-fak with
long lhoots, I have feen a delicate blue ; andatCount Ro-
■tkati  hi s Houfe at Vienm , I faw a large piece of a fair tran-
fparent yellow. There are alfo fome pieces fo clear and
bard, that they carve them into divers Figures, as if they
were Cryftal it felf. Of ali thefe forts mentioned I alfo
obtained fome pieces , and brought them with me into
JLnghmL

But it is time to conclude this long difcourfe of Mineš
and Minerals, which may feem 'of littleconcern unto ma-
ny; yet for the fatisfadion of the more curioUs in fo con-
fiderable a piece of Naturals, inplaces little knownunto
us ; and vvithall, undefcribed by any JingUfb  Pen that I
know; I wouldnotomit this particular account there-
of.

I continued my journeynear to the River Wug , and
came to N<rveM.nefio,  and frorn thence thenext day to

Q ‘tkntm

1

( H4 )

Tirnatv  a Qty feared upon a Plain, and to befeen ata great
didance ; it bath almoft recovered itfelf outof the Alhes
that it was reducedintofix years before:theday follovving
\ve got to the Danube  again , and lodged that night at Preš-
burg , whereofI have fpoken elfewhere ;  and then paffing
the Danube in  two Ferry-boats,we travelledb yHomburg
Tower, by HaiinbergHill,  by theTown of Haimberg , by
Rege Is bran , Vifchet  and Sva echet,and  fo čarne to Vienna .

A great part of  thefe Countries of upper Humarju
through vvhich I traveJled, had a different face from that
of Jujiria,  and from whatthey had forinerJy been. For
fome piaces had been burnt or plundred by the Far tar s
and Turk s  in the late war, and divers pay contribution to
them, fo that many live warily andvneanly to becotne lefs
noted: And in divers piaces their Houfes are bare and
nnfurniihed; and it is wellif they have any other Bed
then one for the  man of the Houfe and his wife. Even in
parts of the Country better provided, and uhder the Em-
perour, a great part of the people being of the reformed
Religion, are under fuch hard meafureand fearsthat they
live in little content, and being of a ftout and  perfevering
temper, they may in time beeome fodefperate, that if  the
Furk  ftiould break powerfulIy in,'tis probable they would
notfight fo heartily againft hira as in tiraes paft. There
are many Calvinifts,  many Lutherans ; they were formerly
almoftall Luther ans  in the Mine-Towns,but now the Offi-
cersareof the Roman  Chnrch. At Schemnitz  a very fair
Church was lately taken from the Luther ans ; and they
toldmethat at Boinitz,  and the Country about. Count
j Valji  caufed ali his Lutheran  Tenants to change, or at leaft
to declare the change of their Religion, or elfe to part with
their Houfes and Lands: There are alfo raany Jnabaftijfs
up anddown, more obferved for their neatworking in
Mother of Pearle then any thing elfe. The Unitartj  live

in

C )

inthefarther parts of upper Hangarji  towards TranJ}lva-
nia,  and havethe commendation to fpeak generally Latin,
even the Hmgarian  Catholicks are nauch diffatisfied at
the intrufion of the Germans , and their encroaching upon
them, they look jealoufly upon the Court at Vientta , think
themfelves notregarded accordingto their merits or a-
bility of their Services, nor the Hungarian  Priviledges
well obferved, fo that they can fcarce diffemble their Dif-
contents, whieh may in time prove of very bad confe-
quence.

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f "7 )

A J O U R N E Y

FROM

I E N N A

INTO

STYRIA , ČARINTHIA,

G ARNI OL A, FRI UL I.

Unto the ftrange Lake of Z irchnltz^  to the Quick-
filver-Mines at IJria,  and to other remark-
able places in the Alpes ..

W HILE Iremained at Vienm , I took,
the pains to fee divers places not far
diftant from it, as Nmgebau, Kalenberg^
Clojier Netvberg, Itzing,Baden, Laxam -
bitrg , Kevpfidler-See , withothers; and
aftervvards made a ;ourney unto Venice,  not by the Stage-
Coaches which keep oneconftant road, ,but chofe rathtr
to perforna it by Horfe whereby I tnight ftay in any plače,
or go outof the road at pleafure.

The firft oonfiderahle plače we favv was Baden,  abotit
foiir German  tniles from Vunna , a pretty walled Town
feated near a part of Mount Cetini  , which divided Nori-
mm  from Banmrit *» aKivolet named Srvechet  pafleth by
it, wbich afterwards enlargeth and runneth in to the Da-■
nttbe  about a German  mile from Viema , t here are three
Ghurches, that of the Auguftmers , of our Lady,and S. St e~

fhcn

C «8 )

phen ; but this plače is moft remarkable for its Bathes
vvhicharemuch frequented from Vienna  and thefe parts.
They are nine in number , whereof having given a parti-
cular defcription to be feen m the Philofophical Tranf-
a&ions for the year 1670 .1  fhall one]y name them here.The
Dukes Bath which is theIargeft , fquare, and in the mid-
dleof a building of the lame Figure, the fteam pafieth
out by a tunnel at the top. The Bathof our Lady, one
end vvhereof is under a Church of the fame name. The new
Bath, St. Johns  Bath of a triangular Figure; the Jeves
Bath vvith a partition to feparate the men from  the women»
The Beggars Bath fo fhallovv that they ]ye down in it;
the Bath of the Holy Crofs chiefly for the Clergy; St.
Feters  Bath; and laftly the Sower Bath fet about with
done Ballefters, and covered vvith a handfome CupoU  and
Emthome.  They are ali  en clofed , the Sears fides and Bot-
toms being made of Firre. They ufe no guide as vvith us,
but direft themfelves with alhort turned Staff,and the hot-
teft of them come fhort in heat of the Queens Bath in Eng-
Und.

Here vve met vvith very good Company, and alJ kind of
accommodation at no dear rate. A Ca.pta.in of  the Empe-
rours vvhom I had accompanied to thefe Baths asatoken
of histove gave me a Gempskugel  vvhich is faid tobean
excrefcence upon the Liver of a vvild Goatof Fyrol , and
highly cryed up in Germiwy  for a fignal remedy againft the
difeafesof the Liver, malignant Feavers and thePJague,
and many are fo obftinately credulous as to think that
vvhofoever taketh it becomes invulnerablefor twenty four
hours after,

Having bathed in ihe Baths, and taken a draught of the
Town, lleftBaden r  and the next confiderable plačewas,
JSfevpfiad , one of the chiefeft Gities in Aujbiti ; it is of a
; Fquare Figure wi th a Fm&za  in the middle of it, two fides-

whereof

C 119 )

vvhereofare arched and fupported with Pillars: tbere are
four Gates, three vvhereof are to be feen frotn the P/azza •
Sc. Jacobs  is the chiefefl: Church which hath two Steeples
in the.Front. The Emperour hath a Pallace here of a
fquare Building with four Tovvers , which are to be feen
a great way off, as is alfo moft part of the Town , as lying
in a Marrifh gromid, and in a plain Country ; it is encom-
pafled wich a Ditch and two Walls, the one very low, the
other feems not ftrong; yet as they told me at one time
the Turk  cou-Id not take it, but left it upon condition that
they might take fomething out of the Town ; vvhich being
granted they took the Prongcr  or WhippingPo(l,  and carri-
ed it unto Conflantimple.  At this plače Count Peter Serini
and Frattgi^ani  werebeheaded the laft year, as. being chief
Contrivers in the Hungarim  Revolt.

From hencethrough the Plains we čarne to Monnt Sme¬
ren  paffing. by Nevnkirckel , where there is a Chappel with
a little red Pinnacle vvhich they fay was built by an Png-
Ufo  King ; I fuppofe by King Richard  the firft who was
kept prifoner in Aufiria  in his returnfrom the Holy Land,
vvhofeRanfoim built the old Walls ©f Viernet.  Mount Si-*
meren  is a part of Mount Cetius  upon the top vvhereof ly-
ethanheapof Stones vvhich make the boundarie between
'Jujlria.  and Styria ;  the afcent of the Hill is fteep and fto-
ny', fo that fometimes it takes tvventpfouoHorfes or,
Oxen to draw up a Cart or Coach.

We lodged at Schotveien  or Schadtvoien , a ft range Tovvrj.
feated'betvveen Rocks upon the paffage of the Hills,
the Houfes upon the .fides of the Rocks are inaccef-
fible but from the top ©f the Hills , and looking of,
ver the Plains, ferve for Watch-Towers ; this isafaft
plače, and called by fome Clmftra ^Auftrin;  having,
theMountainsoneach hand, and fhut up vvith a Gatear.,
tach end, a  finali current coming dowm from the Hills, is.

admitted

( 12 » )

admitted into the Town under the Wall, which put me
ianiindof the Pičture of theWall to the Kingdoni of Chi-
na,  vvherein is expreffed the mannerof the Riversrunning
into China ,the Wall being ftill continued over them. Front
hence I came to <$SMebrzufthlag , the plače where they beat
out the Iron into Bars; fo to Keimburg  paffing by a fvvifc
ftnall Rivernamedikf*rte, then travelled by a Caftlebe-
longing to the Family of Stubnberg,  which is efteemed one
of the Ancienteft in Germunj , and came to Prag  feated
upon the River Muror Muer  a fvvift large River, biit not
navigable, akhough after it hath pafied by Gratz  and Ra-
■ kenburg  it enlargeth. Pragov Muripons  is not iil built
«onfidering the Country, and hath a fair Piazza.  Another
Town of this natne I had feen before feated upon the Ri¬
ver Leyta , and for diftindion called Prag  upon the
Feyta,  fo forvrard h y Luheim  where the Staple oflrcn
is * I came to Knitelfeldt  and Judenburg  fiill nigh to the
River Mar , thenext day to Hundtsmark  and JSTervmark,
then to Freifach , vhich fome think to have been Virunum ,
others Vacorium , in fight of Altenbefnyht  Caftleof Itro-
veitz,  and theCafide of J ‘ottenbrun, which  belongeth to the
Arch-bifhop of Saltzburg.

Then to St. Veit or  Sr. Faith,  formerly the chief City
of Carinthia  , feated upon the Confluence of the River
Glm  and Wunich, it is walled abour, hath fix Churchesin it,
a Piazza  alfo, and in the farne a remarkable Fountain with
a Laver or Bafon of white Marble made out of one Stone,
\vhichwasfive of mvfathomsin eircumference : thisno-
ble Antiquity was brought from Saal or Zolfeldt , a plače
'not far off, and abounding with Roman  Antiquities.

In fight of Uitopolisdt St. Veit ,  there are four remark¬
able Hills, as the Hill of St. Veit , St. Ulrick , St. Lanrence ,
and St. Helena , with aChappel upon each of them, to ali
'thefe upon one day in the year the lnhabitants go inde-

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( 121  )

voti-on on foot, akhough to perform tke farne they muft
travel above thirty Z nglijh  miles.

Weftayed at St. Veit , and had the divertifment of a
tine  Comedy at the Jera naje m  Convent, itwas in May
when the higher Hillswere covered with fnovv, but the
lower were allgreen, full of Firre and Larch-trees, it
thundred and lightned very much, and as foon as it began
they rang their Beliš. Many here have great throats, fome
as big as their heads, many are blind, divers dumb and
fools withalJ; \vithout the Town there is an Hofpital for
fnch as have loft their voice, their vvits, or are othervvife
oppreffed by their great throats,inany of them cover their
throats, which othervvife are very ill comp!exiohed in
cold vveather. Men and vvomen have them, the better fort
of people which live well drink wine and good beer ,are
leffe fubječt to them. I faw bigger throats in thefe parts,
then any Ihad obferved in the Alpine  parts of Savoy.

St. Vek  vvhole same this plače beareth was a zealous
Chriftian who laboured much in the Converfion of thefe
parts,and was perfecuted under DioeleJtanMany  Churches
and Tovvns do carry his name in other parts of Eurepe ,and
the people have an opinion of St. Veit  in the curing of that
dancing difeafe ealled Chorea Sandi Viti .

Fromhence we travelled to Sad , or Solun ,  anciently
a Roman  Colonie, and fet down in the Map of Wol[gangus
Lazita  by the name of Coionia Soluenfis  $ a Field near un-
to it, is ealled Ager Soluenfis  or Zolfeldt , a plače very
fruitful in Antiquities, many vvhereof have beencarried
into other parts: in'this Field I fawthat nmch-fpoken
of Antiquity of the Kings Chair; it is madeof Stone fec
together in the form of two Elbovv-Chairs turned back to
back. Ilpon three of the Stones there are Infcnptions,
but furely more ancientthen the Chair. At the  inftali ing
of the Duke of Carintbia , whither he be King, Prince, or

R Emperour>

( 122  )

Eujperour, 'either he himfelforhis Snbftitute fits in one
part of the Chair towards the Eafl:, and a Baur or Coun-
try-man in the other part of the Chair toward the Weft;
and arnong other Cerenionies, the Country-man rifeth up
and prefents the Duke with a fat and a lean Oxe; the
Duke is obliged to take the lean and return the fat one, and
aberwards to receive a gentle box on the earefromthe
Country-man, and fo after this manner is i.nftalled.

The Church of Saal  is very ancient, and hath efcaped
the fury of the Barbarous Nationš ; herein I favv the Tomb
of Modejlus  a Companion of S. Veit, it is  a plain Monu-
ment, and they have a Tradition here, that the Tombhath
removed itfelf about a yard nearer unto the Al tar then
whereit vvasfirft placed. On the ChurchWallsaremany
old Roman  Antiquitiesof good Eaffo relievo,  whichwere
fir/1 taken out of Zolfeldt; thofewhich I  chiefly obferved
were thefe. ji Cbanot vpith tveo Horfes. A Chariot and a
man in it. A Wolf lieking of fruitfallen front a Tree. Hector
fajined unto the Chariot of  Achilles as he vvas dravvn about
Troy. Four fair Heads unto the middle. Tvpo Wolves  , each
holding a Horn and a Cup betrveenthem, out of vohich jhooteth
a Vine with Leaves and Grapes,  this is over the Porch.
Within the Porch is a Cupid  holding ofa bunch of Grapes.
Romulus and Rentus fuckingof aWolf. Two Figuresover
theCrucifix by S. Chrijlopher , with fome others, ali vvhich
Zoldfeldt  afForded ; vvhere I alfo fawmany Infcriptions,
one upona Stone on the South-fideof the Church , was
this,

HERCVLI- X*

E PONAE- AVG*

PRO SALVTE-IMP-
CAES- M’ AVR-
ANTONINI. PIr FE
■ JLICIS- INVICTI-

allc.

C 123 )

Alfo divers Romun  Coyns of Copper and Silver found in
thefe parts, and I brought away a Medal of Trajam  in
Gold.

From thence we čarne to cLgenfurt  or C kudu  of o!d,
which is at prefent the chief Town in Carinthu , a fair
four fquare Town enclofed wit'h m  handfom Wall; the
Rampart is very broad, at each corner there is a Baftibn,
and one in the tniddle of each Currain ; the Streets are
ftraight and uniform as well as the Works, there is alfo a
very fair Piazza  in the tniddle. For the beauty of this
plače they are beholden to the Induflrious Lutherans
while they held this Country: The Riazza  is adorned
witha Column of Marble, andaStatueof theVirginup-
pon it, alfo with a Statue of theEmperour, but aboveall
with a noble Fountain in the tniddle, over which is a large
prodigious Dragon tnade out of one Stone, Hercules  with
a Club ftanding before it, which the people think to be
the Statue of a Baur which killed this Dragon in thefe
parts. This was alfo brought from the above-mentioned
Fieldof Saal.  There are three noble MafTy Fountains ob-
fervable in thefehilly parts, thefe tvvo of St. Veit  and Cia,-
genfurt , and another of vvhite Marble at Sdtzburg.

Atnong the odd cuftoms of Carinthia.  there is an old
one delivered of this plače, that if a man were
vehemently fufpefted of thefe, they hanged him,
and three days after jttdged of the faft; if he
were found guilty theylet his bodyhang till icbecor-
rupted, if othervvife, they took down the body, buried
it upon the publick account, and laid prayers for his
foul. CUgenfurt  was then full of Souldiers, wherel had
the honour to fee Count Lejley  the chief Commander, Ba¬
ron U Hay,  and my Lord j ?eajly  who had a Company in the
Town, whofefingularcivilities and favours I cannot fuf-
ficiently acknowledge, they obliged me to be at their Ta-

R 2 bi e

C 124 )

£>le vvhile I ffaved , and one day my Lord Lejley  carried
me in his Barge throngh a handfom ftreight cut into the
Werd-Sea or Lakeof GUgenfurte  to a Houfe of pleafure
ca 1 led horetto , ffnely feated, and vvhich hath a Chapel in
k built after the farne manner with that of Loretto  in halj,
'vvhich havrng former!y feen, I was the better able tocon-
firtn the exa<ft imifation of ir. Count LeJlej  is related to
Montecueitli , and fo was pleafed to give me Letters to Vien-
na , and to other parts r The honour I had to know the
right honourable the Earl of Norveich  , Earl Mariih ali ©f
Englmd,  dl d inuch encreafe my kind r eception  among
shem, whofe worthy name I found not onely knovvn in the
Pommions of the Empire, but afterwards alfo in Lurbj.

Leaving C\&genfurte , I continued my journey South-
\vard , and after a German  mile and half crofied the R iver
Dr&vus  vvhere I found it already a large fwift River, paf-
fing over two long Bridges of wood, and an Jiland in the
tniddle; and after an hour or two I began to enter betvveen
the Hills at a plače called the Hammer,  where the Iron is
beaten out, and proceeded in order to my paffage over
Mount Luibel.  In a fliort time entring  into a s odd a De*
fert of Rocks as ma.y be feen, vvhere there is  a grea tCafia-
ta.  or fall of waters, and the vvater hath fo worn the Rocks
thatallfeemstobe artificial: the way up is made with
Walls, turningbackvvard and forward vvith great pains,
andgreater art then Iconld haveexpeded inthisCoun-
try, fowewent on winding backward and fbrvvardtill
vve reached the highefr paffage of the great Mountain Lut¬
hri,  vvhich is a part of the Carnick ^Alpes , dividing Carin-
thia  and Carniota , and one of the moft remarkable Hills I
ever fiw; for having paflfed up as high as the fteep Rocks
and Peaks vvpuld permit vve turned fidevvife by a made way
vvhich led us into a holeor paffage cut quitethrougb the
Mounrain, imitating the famed Grotto  of the Hill Lanfilipo,

C  125 ).

by Naples : thereis aRoof of Woocl-work in the middie,
which is continued unto the Carm'dum  fide ; the Roof of
this paffage is high, the iengthof it is 156. yards, aifd it
is four yards broad.

The raanner of pafling through this Hill was furprizing
unto me , having never read nor heard hereof befbre, I
thougbt it might be fosne work of the old Romam,  but I
was afcerwards informed that it was imich later, and that
in former time there was no paffage in to Car mola  this way,
but they went about by Villach.  At fir/1 light of this hole
when I vvas far be!ow it, I conje&ured, it might be the
habitation or Chapelof fotne Hermit, but could not ima-
gin how he ftiould come unto it, tiil at laft by the winding
and turning of the way up the Hill, I did not onely pafs
through it my felf, but met with divers Paffengers who
čarne out of C ar mola,  and it is fo well contrived, that
the Country carriages and Carts pafs through it every
day.

In afcending this Hill we had bad weather, rain and
fierce bad , and the fnow layed ftill by the way-iide;
and beingffo high at the time of a ftorm , I  had an oppor-
tunity to fee the Clouds defccnd, .and-after it was paft to
afcend again fo high, as to get over part of the Mountain,.
and a ftream of them paffed through theholeout of Car-
niola  into Carinthia , oppofite!y unto us who paffed out of r
Carmthia  into Carniola , or out of Karmen  into Craen.

This noble paffage being already fo vreli corftrived, and
in the Country of a laborious and induftrious people, is
like to be continued , vvho remove the fnow with great
pains in the Win£er,and keep the way'paffable, as we con-
rinuaily afcended till we came to this Grotto , fo when we
were once got through itvve alwayes defcended, and came
firft to S. Jima ,two Enrfifh  miles downward then to Nav*
Jlatteh German  mile and balf fuccher ftill defcending, and,

fo':

• C TZ6 )

proceeded till we came to Cramburg , vhich is thought to
have been formerly Garnodunum,  a good Town fcated upon
theUiver , from vvhence through a fair Plainfour
German  miles long,we came to Labach  or Lubiana  the chief
City of Car mola  ; the River Labach  runneth through it,
vvhich falleth aftenvards into the Savus  It is an handfom
City witha Caftle feated upon an Hill which over-looketh
two" large Valleys to the North and South, and hath a fair
Profpedt of many Mills and Caftles, but being commanded
byanother Hill not far from it, it isneglečled, although we
find that it hath endured a ftrong Siegc, for vvhile the Em-
perour Fretierick  vvas rečeiving the Crown at Aken , his
Brother jllbertus  and Count Ulrick  took the advantage to
befiege it, but it made fo good refiftance that the Empe-
rourhadtime to raife the Siege and deftroythe Army. At
Labach  I happily met vvith Mr. Tefh  a Sotch  Apothecary
in that Town, who was very civil unto me, informing me
of the places about, andfhewing me many Curiofities, and
the feveralMineralsof thofe parts.

This plače is conceived to be old Nauportus  famous
for thelandingof the Jrgonautes , vvhofetring forthfrom
Argos Pelafgicum  in TheJfalj  fayled unto Colebos  on the
Eaft-fideof the Fužine Sea,  but being purfued by the
King of Golchts  his Veffels difpatched after them, they de-
clined returning by the Hellejponf , but bearing North-
vvard entred the mouth oilfter  or Danubius,  and pafled up
the River till they came to the concurrence of the Danu-
bius  and the Savus , and taking up the Savus  they came to
the River Labach,  and went up that River landing about
this plače anciently called Nauportus,  and then travelled
to the Jdriatick Sea  and returned unto Greece.  So that in
my travels I had been near their fetting out in Thejfalg,  and
at the plače of their landing in Carnioh.

From bence we travelled towards the Zirchnitzer-See,

or

(  127  )

or famous ftrange Lake o fZirchnitz,  baving the Marfhes
on our left hand, and the Hills on-our right, till 'we came'
to Brounitza ,and tben paffing over them v. e čarne to Zirch-
ftitz,  a Town of about threc hundred Houfes, which giveth
the name unto the Lake, here I applyed my felf unto Jn-
dreas Wifer  the Richter  or Judgeof the Tovvnvvho affor-
ded me direčlions and accommodations for the vievving of
the Lake; and went down to Seedorjf,  a Village half a mile
nearer the Lake, and then to Kiderdvrff,  where I took Boat
andfpent fome timeupon the Lake.

This Lake is about two German  mileslong, and one
broad, encompafled with Hills at fome d Ulance, and upon
theSouth-fide lyeth a Foreftpart of Birnbaurner  Foreft,
which extendeth a great way , \v here in are many Dear,
wild Boars, Foxes, Wolves and Bears..

Every year in fome part of the Month of June  , the
water of this Lake defcendeth under-ground through
many great holes at the bottoms; and in the Month of -
September  returneth again by the farne holes i and witha
fpeedv afcent, fpringingand mounting up to the heighth
of a Pike, and foon covering that tradt of ground again. ;
When the vvater is under-ground, the Earth makes a fpee-
dy produflion of Grafš yielding food for Cattel in the
Winter, and at the farne time, Hares, Deer and Boars refort
to this plače out of the Country, and the fore-ment ioned
Forreft, and are often taken by the people.

The Lake affordeth plenty of Fifh, but they fifh but
by permiffion, for the Prince of Eckenberg  is Lord there-
of, and a good^part of the Country about, but up-.'
on the going awa"y of the vvater, ali have liberty to-take :
Fifh, which they do by flanding in the vvater by the holes,
and fo intercepting their paffage take great pJeney cf
them, which otherwife would follovv the water under-
ground, and nat returnagain untill September* J  could not >.

hear

C m8 )

hear thatany unknown Fifhes \vere brought up by the wa-
ter, but thofe which come up are of the farne kind with
thofe which went down, which are a kind of Carp,Tench,
Eeels, andfuchasare commonin otherLakes; and they
are rather gainers then loofers hereby, vvhen they came up,
for the Fifhhaving fpawned before, the frye thatgoeth
down hath had about three months growth under-ground
when they are brought upagain.

The Ground under the Lake is very unequal, and the
water not near of the farne depth, but in fome places four
foot , and then fuddenly again twenty yards deep .* and
beeaufe the Fifh frequent the Valleys or deeper places,
more then the Hills or eminent parts, the Fifhennen who
know the plače vret and dry, have given unto fev.en of
thefe Vallyes peculiar names, which in th z Schvoriun,

■  theLanguageof that Country are thefe,'

Vtdanas.

RefbetuT

Sitarja.  *

RibijhkUma.

Nakmjhtt .

Levijhe.

Kottel.

I pafled over the five fir/l mentioned Vallyes, and went
to a noted Stone called the Fifhers Stone, by the appear-
ance whereof they can conjefture how foon the water wiil
defcend, and by an Hill, vvhich when jthe water is high
becometh a pleafant Ifland, and then returned.

They can give no account that this Lake hath fayled any
year to ddcend and arife again, or have any tradition hovv
long this property of the Lake hath been obferved. Some
Lakes have been made by Earth-quakes, but it is more

probable

( 129  )

probabie that thishath been from ali Antiquitj, and ac-
cording to the beft con|e&ures, this is the Luge* J?altu  of
Strabo , and therefore more ftrange that the Ancients are
filent in this remarkable account.

The neareft Sea unto this Lake is the Sum 'tergejlims,
and Sims Fhnaticus , the Gulf of triejte , and the Guif of
JŠl \ uevero . And not many miles fiom heqce are the Heads
of divers confiderable Rivers, as that of Laback , the Gor¬
co ms  or Gttrk , the Colapis  pr Culp,  which run into the Sa-
vus.  The Vifao  or amnis frigidus  which runs into Lpfmfo  bjr
Goritia , and divers more, but vvhither thefe Rivers arih*
wherethe Lake falleth, I could not learn.

The Ground not far from this Lake is very hollow and
full of Caverns, and I obferved many Caverns and deep
holes in other parts of C*rniol*  fomevvhat like unto El-
den  hole in DarbpJfjire , and Iwas informed by the raoft
confiderable perfons at Zirchnitz,  tthat the Prince of
Eckenberg  had the curiofity to go into one of them, and
čarne out agai n upon the fide of an Hill.

I was upon confideration whether I fhould go from
hence unto Tergejlum  now 2'dejte  a Port-Town of the Ern-
perours in the Jdriatick-Sea , and then by Ship to Venice ,
but having been in many Mineš before I had a defire alfo
to fee the fitmous Quick-filver Mine at Urici  in the Coun-
tyof Gor iti* ; and par ti ng from Zirchnitz,  I pafled by
Lov ec^  and travelled over Mountainous parts till I came
to Urin,  whicfa is encompafied with Hills on ali fides, and
a River of the farne name runs by it, which although
Leandro  terms [uperbifjimo fiume d Uri* , yet I found it
fmall and fhallovvat the time when I was there, uponplen-
tiful rains howfoever it proves fufficient to convey
down the Firre-trees, and other wood required in the
building of the Mineš,and alfofor fuel necefiary in the fer-
vice of them; and to this end there is an hatidfom work of

S Piles

C *3° )

Piles made floaping athvvart the River, (after the farne
manner as I obferved at Kervfol  in upper Hungary  crofs
the River Grm  ) to ftoptheTrees vvhich are cutdown
and caft in:o the River above this plače.

Whac is chiefly confiderable in this Town are the
Quick-filver Mineš, very vvell kno\vn to the neighbour-
ing parts, and exceeding ufefull to many at greaterdi*
ftance.

The entrance into thefe Mipes is not high or upon an
Hill, bnt in the Town it felf„ whereby they are fomevvhat
rhe more troubled with water,againft vvhich they are pro-
vided with many excellent Enginesand Devices, asat o-
ther deep Mineš; the deepeft part of the Mine front the
entrance is betvveen one hundred and twenty, and one
hundredand thirty farhoms.

Of the Quick-iilver of this Mine they feave two forts,
the one caked Jungfrm , that is virgin Quick-filver, the
other plain Quick-filver, virgin Mercury they call that
vvhich difcovers it.felf vvithout the help of fire, and is ei-
ther plainlyto befeen in the Earth or Ore, or fallsdown
in littledrops in the Mine, and fpmetimes iireams out in
good quantity; as about feven years ago it ran out of the
Ea.rth at firft in a ftreatn as finali as a thred, and afterwards
as big as a Pack-thred,but ceas’d in,three or four days.

That alfo is accounted virgin Quick-filver , vvhich ha-
ving no need topafs the fire, is feparated by vvater firft in
a Sive, and aftervvards in a long Trough, having very fmall
holes at one end, fo that there is in a manner two forts of
Virgin Mercury ; the onerunning out and difcovering it
felf without labour, the other requiring fome way of ex-
tradion and feparation, though not fo high anone as by
fire.

Plain Quick-filver they name that vvhich isnot at firft per-
ceived by the eye, or faJls from the Ore, but is forced out

H

( ni )

by fire, and this they obtain out of the Ore, or out of the
natural Cinnaber of Mercury vvhich they dig out of this
Mine. The Ore is of a dark colour mixed with red, but
thebeft isahardStone which they commit not prefently
to the fire, but pouder it grofly and work it by the five,
thatfoif any Virgin Quick-filver be foundinit, itinay
befeparated in this manner, and whatdothnot pafsthe
five, may be feparated by fire in Iron Furnaces, fifty of
them in a fire.

The Quick-fiIver-Ore of this Mine is the richeft ofall
Ores I haveyetfeen, for ordinarily it contains in it half
Quick-filver, and in tvvo parts of Ore one part of Quick-
filver, andfotnetimes in threeparts of Ore, two parts of
Quick-filver. ,

I went into the Mine by the Pit of St. Agat h a ., and čarne
up again by thac of St. Barbara ,, defcending and afcen-
ding by Ladders ; I afcended at one of fix hundred and
thirty nine ftaves, or eighty ninefathoms. Siferus  in Kir-
chers Mundus fubtena%eus  makes fuch a dreadful defcrip-
tion of this Mine, that it might difcourage any from at-
tempting the defcent, vvhich makes me doubt, whether he
had been in any otherMine, efpeciallv where the defcent
is made by Ladders.

In a Laboratory where the Quick-filver is feparated
by fire, 1  faw an heap of fixteen thoufand retorts of Iron»
every one of which cofts a Crown at the beft hand from
the Iron Furnaces in Canntbia :  herein are alfo at one time
eight hundred retorts, and as many recipients employed
together in draw>ng over the Quick-filver in fixteen Fur¬
naces, fifty in each Furnace, twenty five of a fide, twelve
above, and thirteen below of each fide.

Jme  12. 1669. When I was there they carried out
forty faumes of Quick-filver intoforrainparts,eachiaum e
containing three hundred and fifteen pound vveight to th e

S 2 value

C 132 ;

value of four thoufandi Ducatsof Golci-, choughthe con«
veyance be not ealle, for it is carryed upon Morfts backs,
two finali Barreis upan each Horfe, yet fome is fent as far
as Chremnitz,  in Hmngarji  for the ufe of the Gold Mine, and
fome into Svoeden,  and other remote parts.

In the Cafi!e I faw three thoufand faumes of Quick-
filver together in Barreis; the Quick-filver being firft
made up in double Leather, and in another Houleas much
rich Ore as can bediftilled in two years, except they have
greatplenty of rain to bringdown the wood, but the Hills
being high ahout them, it fnows at the tops of them ofrner
then it rains.

Thofe Strangers wfao come into the Cattleof Idria, have
their names fet down in a Regifter-Book, vvith theCoun«
try of which they are Natives, and the Catalogue is large,
but of Engkfh  men. there are fevv ; of I'ateyearsone!y Mr.
'Evelyn  and Dr. Pope,  with their Company, of whofe ob-
fervations there is an bandfom account in the Philofophi-
cal Tranfadions. fome time fince. Thisplače is the more
gratefui to Strangers inrefpeft that it being aFrontier
Town, and hordering upon d-ivers Nations, suany Lan-
guages are underftood here, and’J obferved cbat there
werefivefpokenfreely bythe Officers and better fbrt of
People, befides Premk  which was not excluded from this
plače, though not foefteemed or defired. viz. Priulian,
ScUvonian, German, Latinand ltalian.

Leaving Idria  I pafled over Sveartzenberg ov  the blaek
Mountain, anddefcendedabout tenmiles through a ftony
Country farr worfe then the Gr mo r fiony Plain in Pro¬
sence,  and came to Jdojbini , and then to Goritia  or Koreja
of ©Id, the chiefeft plače of the Country of Goritia,  well
feated and over-looking a fair Plain to the South-Wefh
The Emperotirs Governour of thisCountry liveth in the
and hath had of late a Guard granted unto hi m, ba-

ving

C r?3 )

visg been fet upon by a Gentleman ©f the Country, who
fot  that faftvvas banifhed, and his Boufe rafed.

Traveli ing inthenight, we had fometimes about us a
great number of large Glow-worms, which pur into pa-
pers gavea dimlight; and in fome places in the Plains
the Air was full of flaming flies affbrding fome del ight to
us.

The CarniolUns  fpeak a Dialečt of the Sclavonian , but
in thefe parts they have a Language called Lirtgrn Ful/ana,
or Fridam  ; he that fpeaketh It dim  may underftand
tnuch chereof. The Lords Prayer in that Language begin-
ueth thus, Fari Nejfri eh' ees in Cijl jee Santijicaat tu to
um, drv.

That neat kind of Acer vvhereof Violi ns and Mufical
Instruments are made, prolpers weM in thele parts, as alfi)
in Carniold.md SdtzAurgfa/tdi,  where they make Trenehers
and Tables of it, and at an eafierate; I brought fome of
the fai r broad Leaves frotn thence.

Leaving Goritia  I pafled the River Sontius  or Ltfonza
■vvhickarifing in the Hilk above runs into- the Adriatiek
Sea. Near tbi-sRiver, Odoacer  who had made himfelf King
of Itd/,  was flain in a Battel by Theodorick  King of the
Goths.i  Afterwards trave! ling on through Medows, Icame
unto the ffcrong and well fortified City of j Palma  j Vezuv-

Ali this long Gircuit uhti 11 we čarne within amile of
FdmceNova  we were ih the Etnperours Dominions ,v/hich
are muth larger then commonly apprehended, and having
fooneror later feen thegreateft part thereof, I cannot but
be of that opinion, for he pofiefTeth ali jftifiria , Stjria ,
CarinthU, Carnivla,  partof Groaria, Ifiria ; and Fridi,  pare
€>f Jlfatia , the large County of Firelis,  the large Country
ef Bohe mio., ^Meravia, Sifejia , and fome part of Lufitia^
and a confiderable part of Bmgari&\  frotn Fresbourg  to
tiufajp  and Zatkmur\  above two hundredand fifty'miles 3

C 134 )

and the Inhabitants cf thefe Countrys beingan hardy ftouc
and valiantPeople,T cannot but think him a great and povv-
erful Prince,and anbappy Bulwark ofChriftčndpm againft
the 'turks.

Palma Nova  in Fridi  is the largeft regular Forcificacicn
I have obferved, it hathnine Baftions, bearingthenames
of Pome noble Venetians , which have little to be accepted
againft but their round ears, on each Currain there are two
Cavalliers, the Rampart is much higher then the Wall, the
Ditch is thirty paces broad, and twelve deep ;  it is kept
dry to render the Town inorehealthfuJI, but may be filled
with vvater upon occafion, as that of Viema , much where-
of is kept dry leaft it fliould injure their deepSeliers;
there are three Gates,Porta Maritma^Porta de Civtdal, and
Porta di Udme.  They were then making one fair Half-
Moon before each Gate: In the Center of the City is fixed
a Standard over a Triple Well, in the middleof a Sexangu-
lar Piazza,from  whence a man may fee the three Gates and
fix Streets quite through the Town- The Piazza  is beau-
rified with the Front of the Domo  Church, divers Statues,
and an Obelisk muchguilded.

In the middie of the Bridge there is a Dravv-bridgemade
with fuch Artifice,that the Centine! difcovering any force
approaching, may by onely touching a cerrain Iron with
his foot dravvup the Bridge; many handfom contrivances
for Dravr-bridges I had feen in otherparts, fometimes ma-
ny upon one Bridge, and not onely one afteror behind
another, but alfo fometimes two or three ona breft , the
outermoft ones ferving for the retreat of the foot, that in
the middie for the Horfe and Carriages. Some Draw-
bridges are not to iifc up,but to be drawn on one ftde, and
foby or>ely turning of it like to the opening of a Gate
Paffengers are conveyed over the Moat and landed; but
thofe which pleafed me moft were the Dravv-bridges at

Amflerdam ,

n (  135 3

Jmfterdam,  which part in the middle 3  and a Vedel though
under fayl raay pafle them, without the help of any one on
ihoar, for thejVlaft,head,or break-water of the Ship, bear-
ing againft the Bridge in the middle, openeth it.

At Palma Neva the Venetians  ha ve made a cut from the
Seato theTovvncapableof good Veffels, and broad and
deep enough to bring provifions and fupplies upon ocča-
fion ro this plače.

This is at preferit efteemed one of the nobleft Fortifica-
tions in Eurepe,  begun by the Venetians  1594. and is a no-
table Bullwark of their State and ltaly \, for this way the
Huns  and barbarous Nations pafled into Ita/y,  and this
vvay the Turki  have formerly made in-roads.aimoft as far
asi revijo.

Havingfeen many of the chief Fortifications in Pur epe,
I had the greater defire to take a view of this, becaufe it
carrieth fo great a farne,and is laid to have been contrived
by Military adyj.ce from ali parts, and as alfo becaufe the
Venetians  wouldhave it believed to be the nobleft Fortifi-
cation, not onely in , but in the vvorld ; Jheartily

wifh they may never know a completeTurkijh  Anny before
it, efpecially when ever they are in no good condition to
relieveit. If theEmperour throtigh whofe Countrys the-
Tur k s  muft pafs to coirie to this plače, and the Republick
holdfirm, it will be hard for the Tur\  to come imto it, and
if the Turk  fhould be at fuch a peace with the Venetians  as :
may bind up their Fleet from affifting the other parts of
ltaly , hePhali not need to attempt it or make his way into
ltaly  by that plače, for vvhether the Naval Forces of ltaly
without the afliftance of the Venetians , be able to refift a
complete Turkijh  Fleet, fo as to hinderTanding and falling
upon that Countrj fome other way, is much to bedoubt-
ed.

From Palma Koval  vvent to Mann St, Vite,  a Port.

Town

( J 3t  )

'Town of the Venetims  in FriWr, To nameči from St Vito ,
who is faid to have been buried in this plače.

At this Town we took a Felluca , and fayling by the fhoar
of Friuli  or Patria,  we paffed by Porto di Fapmento , and
čarne to Cahorle.  In this Ifland there is a Ch ur eh deaicated
to the Bleffed Virgin featedupon the Sea-fhoar nigh the
Wav.es, yet faid never to be overflowed by the Sea, beihg
as it were the Halcyon  Neaft of its Patronefs, and a plače
of remarkable devotion. On this fhoar \ve refreflied our
felves and were divertifed at Sea in feeing them take Shell-
filh, and then pafflng by Livenza , tvhere the Sea čarne for-
merly up as high as Opit ergi urn , and afterwards by Porto
di Piave  , I arrived at Venice  entring by the Porto de Ca-
Jlelli  paffing by the Carthufians  Convent, and landed at the
Piazza  of St. Mark.

Here J found the who!e City highly concerned For the
Hazardous  State of Candia , which was loft foon after ,Do-
minico Cant&rini  the prefent Duke was fedulous in that af-
fair. TheVoyage of Ghiron Francisco Marchefe Vda , Ge¬
neral of the Infanterie of Candia,  with a journal of a Siege
had been Jately publiihed, and was in many hands.

There tvas alfo a fupply of Anxiliaries in goodreadi-
nefs; it was at that time a more then ordinary hot Seafon,
and fome of our Englijh  Sea Captains and Mafters told me,
that they had feldom met vvith fuch hot weather even be-
tween the T 'ropicks.

, Having formerly had a view of Rome, Naplcs^Florence,
and the great Citiesof ltaly , and paffed fome time at Pa¬
dca  a few years before, Trnade but a ihort ftay  about Ve¬
nice 3  and having reviewed what was moff: confiderable,and
renevved my acquaintance with fome worthy courteous
Friends at Venice  and Padoa , Mr. Halespht  Conftil * Mr.
Ffobfon , Dr. Cadined , andothers. I difpofed my affair for
my returnto Vienm  the ordinaryway.

in

( *37  )

In order thereto I took Eoat at Venice  and landed at
Mfjlre  a pretty Tovvn, and the bed plače for accommo-
dation for fuch as travei into German)  by Tir d , or into
jfuftria  by Eriult;f rom.hence I traveiled ten miles ihrough
a pleafant plain Country tiil 1 čarne to Trevife  or Tarvi-
fwm,  wbich giveth the name u n to theCountry about, Ln
aJMarca Trevigiana,  a handfom City adorntd with gocd
Houfes, Churches , Tovvers, and Fountains. The clear Ri-
ver Sile  or Silo  runneth through it, and aftervvards into the
Sea between Me (ir e  and M uran o it aboundeth in good
Winesand Fruit, and was a chief Seat of the Lombar as  in
thefe parts.

Froin thence I came to Lovadim , and crofTed the great
River Eiave^Elavis-pt Jnajfus,  whicharifing in the Moun-
tains, paffeth by the Cities cf E e Huna  and Eeltre,  then to
Concian  or Coniglian , and next to Sadile  or Sacillum , for-
tner]y a Bifhops See under the Patriarch of Jquileia,  a
pleafant and well-bui]t plače efteemed the Garden of the
Republick,and feated by the River Livenza  or Liquentia ,
which pafling by Mctta  runneth into the Gulf of Venice.

Here I took a guide to condud me throngh the PJains
and Meadovvs, and čarne to Splinbergo ,where I again took
a Guide to crofs the fwift River Taiamento  or Tdiaventunr,
this is efteemed the greateft River in Friuli , arifingabove
in the Julian Jlpes,  and running down into the JdrUtick
Sea, and often over-flovving a great part of the plain Coun-

try.

Not far froin Spilimbefgo , IpafiedaneatRiverorno-
tableCut called LaBrentella,  fixteen miles long, madeby
the V^netians  for the better bringing down of wood from
theMountains tobe ufed in the makingof Glafles at Mu-
ran;  it is ali paved with a good Stone , bottoni and fides,
the bottom is round, fo that it is lbmewhat like a Tube
opened or fplit Ln two.

T

Then

C 13Š )

Then I paffed by St. Daniel  feated h  pon an Hill by
Hofpitaletto,  and came to Ve njene,  a Tovvn feated at the be-
ginn ng of theHills, and fonnerly the limit of the Vene -
tun  Domi nians; thence by Rej »ta  to LaChiufa , a plače
retnarkable for the ftreight palfage of the jilpes,  vvhere
the Veneuans  keep a gard , and fltut tip the paffage every
riight; froin thence 1 came to Ponteba or P on te Fe/la  upon
the River Fella , the exad Confines betvveen the Venetian
and Imperial Dominions,and furelya"mancanfeldom pafs
more clearlj and diftin&iy from one Country unto another
then m this Town ; on one fideof the Bridge Viveltalians
Subjeds unto the State of Penice,  on the other fide Ger¬
man s,  Subjeds unto the Emperour. Upon the one fide
their Bmldings,their tnannerofliving,their empty Rooms,
large vVindovvs, Iron Eedfreads fhovv tbem to be It alt an s :
On the other fide immediately their Sto ves, higher Bed-
fteads, Feather-beds one over another, fquare Tables, and
their Bafon and Cloath by theWall declare them to be
Germans  *, the Bridge it feif is alfo half Italian.hzlf Dutch,
one part being builc of Stone, and the other of great Trees
laidover after the German fafhion of imking  Bridges. Be-
tvveen Ve n fine  and Ponteba  thereare many great Cafcatas
or falls of waters ; but of feveral paflages of the Alpes
this feemed unto me the beft and mpft eafie.

Ib thefe Mountainous places I was entertained with
ftrange ftories of the Snow vvhich covereth thefe Hills in
the Winter, as how many pikesjength the Snow was deep
»n forne places, how round the Country would look when
ali the craggy Rocks were covered, bow a Snow-baII
throvvn down from a Mountarn vvould fo gather and aug-
rnent in the fall, as to do great mifchief in the ¥alley, and
Chat if the fina Uefi Bird fliould but ferape with her foot
attheedge of an high Hill, that little beginningmightfo
enereafe in the defcent, upon a thaugb, as to over-vvhelm an
Houfeat the bottom, From

C 139 )

From hence by Tcrvis,  and Tiri,  unto Vittaco,  or Vitlack,
an handfom Town, and one of the chiefeft in Carinthia ;
but before I čarne to Villuck  I went to fee the Natural Baths
which were not much out of the way at the foot of an Hill
about an Fngiijh  mile from the Town and in good efteem.
There are two clear Sulphureous Baths, but very gently
warra, and have an acid and no unpleafant tafte; the bot«
tom is not planchered nor pa ved, but hath its ovvn natural
Spring and fettlement with it; yet into one there is a hot
Spring let in which arifeth by it; they are large and have
ftairs to defcend into them, with little Roomsof wood
about them for accommodation, they are covered over,
and they bathe in them cloathed vvith fhirt and dravvers
as in Auflria.

Notfarfrom hence is a-Lake called the Ojfuc\erSee,
from OJJlack  a Town upori the lide thereof, and is one of
the moli confiderable Lakes in Carinthia , there being be-
fides it, thefe which are remarkable, the White Luke , the
Millftatter , the Werd , and the Forchten  ; this Lake doth
not onely abound in Fifh , but affordeth great plenty of
Ofliacker  Nuts, vvhich the people eat, and fome make
Eread of; vvhich notvvithftanding upon examination I
found to be no other then very large Seeds of Tibulus J-
cjHAtictis , orwater Galltborfs.

From Viilach  I foon came to the IVerd See , and keepfng
it continually on my right hand, I travelled by the (ide of
ittill I came to CUgenfurte , and then paffed again to St.
Veit s,  vvhere I met Mr. DonelUn , from vvhorn upon my
former defires to him,  I received an account of the great
Lead Mineš in upper Cariniki a  at Elejkerg  , vvhere they>
have vvorked e!evenhundredyears, and the Pits are Jecp;
Federms SulLcn  or Ctmicultis  is an hundred and ten fa-
thoms deep in the Earth, and the Hills fohigh about it,
that upon the melting of the Snow in the Spring, there is

T 2 oftea

C H°  )

often much burt done,the Snow rowling and faliing in fuch
vad heaps that notbing is able to refilt it, fo that in the
vear 16 4. it fcli fo vehement!y that it deftroyed and car-
ried away iixteen Houfes He prefented me alfo with ma¬
li)' handfum naturai Curiofities collafted by him in thofe
parts, oneof wbich among the reli I cannot but mention
which v/as a rich iarge fair piece of naturai Cinnaber
found m Crervalt , or in the Forreft of Cre , t\vo German
miles from St. Veit's  in the Lordfihip of Oojierrvitz,  where
there hath beengreat quantities foundout, for the Uerr
von Staudach  above thirty years ago, as he vas bunting in
this Forreft, being thirftyand laying down to drink out of
alittleftream whichrunnethfrom thetop of theHill, he
perceived the ftream to be full of Ginnaber , but fince it
hath been fo diiigent!y fearched after, that vvithout work-
ing and digging for it, there is little to be found.

From St. Veit z,  continued my journey by Friefach,
where formerly there was*a Gold Mine , and rhen by Nerv-
marck , Hmdtsmark , Peltfolz , Knitelfeldt, Lttihm , Prug,
Kemberg, Mehrzu Schlag Scbadtrvien, Nevekirckel, Neve-
jladt , Solinatv, Trafkirchel, Netvdorff, toIVien.

This my return fromVenice to Vienna , about threebun-
dred and fifty It a lian miles , was the moft quiet journey I
ever made, for not meeting with good Company I perform-
ed-italone, and uponone Horfe; and although there are
feveral Nations, and no lefs then four Languages fpoken
upon thisroad , yet 1 met with no difturbance from any,
nor did any one ask from whence I came, or whither I
vvould goe,no trouble as to Bilis of health, and good ac-
commodation in the Innes at an eafie rate, they are for the
moft part a plain People, make good Souldiers, little mu-
tinous, but obedient to commands, and hardy, and are of
good ufe and fervice unto the Emperour.

Inmy travels in Germany  I feld.om failed to meet with

Jervs

C I4 r  )

Jem,  but in this journey I met with none, or fuch as I
could not well diftinguifh , for though there vvere then
whole Villages of Jem  in Aujlria,  yet they were prohibi-
ted in Styria , and fevere!y banifihed ont of Carinthia , fo
that for thofe Jetrs  who travelled betvveen Venice  and
Vienm ; the Emperour difpenceth with them as to their
Rufi, and the Veneti ans  as to their red Hat,

Tofay any thingof Vienm  niay feem fuperfiuous , di-
vers having written thereof, and it might fail better inif
ever I ihould deferibe my journey from the Lovv Coun-
trys to Vienm , and from Vienm  by the way of Mer avta ,
Bobemla , Mifnia , Saxonia  n n to Hamburg;  mean whi !el
wo£ild no longer defer to give fome account of places
lefsknovvn orlefs deferibed in Pannonian, Dacian, Ma¬
jina, G račun, Noricam , and \llyrian  Countrys, uhieh in
their proper order are delivered in this Work,

In my travels through Hangaria  and the Imperial Pr o-
vinces, I could not but take notice of- fome AfTertions
•vvhichl could not verifie.

Be/grade  is commonly counted to be in Hangaria,  and
fo deferibed by fome Authours, but ifftričtly confidered
it is feated in Servia , or Majin  Super i or, beyond the
boundsof Hangar ia.

That St, Jer orne  was a Pannonian  may be granted, but
that he was a Native of Hungaria , ftrickly taken may be
doubted, for he-vvas born in Stridon , novv concei ved to be
Stre do n  or Strejna,  on the imvardor Wefternfideof the
River <HMur,  before it runneth into the Dravas , and is ac-
counted in Steirmark.

It is faid by Plime Curfus Savi  r 50, rniile pafjuum.  that
the courfe of the Savus.is  an hundred aud ffty iruies,
whicb if accounted from the head is much too fhort, and
not much more then half the meafure thereof.

That the River Savu s  runneth into th z Dravas , feetr.s-

affinued

C 142 )

affirmed by Str oho, Vicims Nauporto fluvius efl Cer c o-
ras qui merces accipit, hic in Savum influit , Savusm D ra-
<vim,  that is, Not far from JSfauportus  is the Rjver Corcoras
or the Gurk  which receiveth the Marchandifes, this run-
neth into the Savus , and the Savus  into the Dravus,
vvhereas the Savus  neverrunneth into the Dravus,  and
when it entreth the Danube  at Belgrade  is about an hun-
dred miles from it.

The diftance which St rabo  makes between \Jquileia  and
Nauportus  or Luback  of four hundred furiongs or fifcy
miles, though fomewhat toofhort, may be fairly tolera-
ted, but what he delivers of the fpace betvveen Tergejlum
or Iriefle,  and the Danube  not to be made out. It er *  Ter-
geflo ad  Danubium, Stadiorum tir citer mille & du-
l,i ' 7 ’ centa , that the journey from Triefle  to the Da¬
nube  was about one thoufandand two hundred furiongs,
oran hundred and fifty miles, which is to o fhort amea-
fure unto theneareft part of the Danube,  which will make
about two hundred and fifty miles; but the Ancienrs
might ea(ily err herein, fince fotne of them were miftaken
inthecrue courfe of the Danube,  vvhieh they conceived
to bave one branch to run into the Adriatide  Sea.

I went this journey when the Sun vvas in Cancer , in the
hotteft time of the year, and the heat vvas very offenfive to
me in the great Plains of Iriali , and Auflria;  but in the
jilpes  it was much more moderate, and the Country
was ali green, and pleafant; when on the contrary ali the
the Gtafs in Auflria  vvas burned up by the Sun, and if there
vverenot a continual breeze about the middleof the day
. upon ali great Plains, efpecially in Southern Countrys
the heat vvould be intolerable; and I could not but take
notice how pleafantly the poor Peafants in the Alpine
Countrys divertifed themfelves in the Fields , and after
theirlabour vvould be lively and brisk, fometimes play

at

f 143 j

at Cards , with Cards of a fpan long,fuch as they have in
thofe Countrjs, while the rich Country-tnen m Jiuflna
were faint and gafping for breath, nor did it any thing a-
vail them that Aujiria  was more Northern then Styria  or
Caritithia , for there maybe as mu c h diference as to the
temperature of the Air, and as to heat and cold in one
mile, as in ten degrees of Latitude, and he that would cool
and refrefh himfeif in the Summer, had better goeup to
the top of the next Hill, then remove into a far more Nor¬
thern Country. I have been ready to freeze on the top of
a Hill, and inan hours time after have fuffered asgreat in-
convenience from the heat ofthe Valley ;at the rifing of the
Sun I have been upon a Hill with a clear sky,and good vvea-
ther, and have feena Valley incompaffed with Mountains
and covered ali over with Clouds rnuch be!ow us , the Sun
fihining upon the upper part of the Clouds inade them ap-
pear like fine Down or Woo!l,and made the fofteft fweet-
eft lights and fhadows itnaginable •, afterwards when we
defcended into this Valley under the Clouds we had no
fuch pleafant Profpeft , but were rained upon the moft
partof the day. In tirat hot Ccuntry of 'utrdita  travel-
lers complain moft of the cold they fuffer in paffing the
Hills. The Mountains in ltdy  and Spain  are fome of them
covered with Snow andlce ali the Summer Jon g. Ihave
heardthat Mount Atks  is foalfo, from Dr. But ter  who
lately travelled in thofe parts, and from others; when in
Great Britam  there is no fuch thing. At London  vvebave
Winters for the moft part favowrab!e,when Captain James
who went to difcover the North-weft pafTage,and to fearch
if there were any communication between the w Atlantide
Ocean and the South Sea in the Northern part of America ,
as there is iathe Southern, fuffered more hardfhip in the
farne degree of Latitude then the nine Enghfb imn  who
Vv’ere left ali the Winter in Greenland , and Baffin , on the

contrary

— . c r 44 J

eontrar/, upon the farne defign had a pleafant voyage in
an open Sea, and met with Inhabifants upon the Shoar,
till he came within ninedegrees of the Pole. But I fliall
wander too far outof the way, and therefore will put an
end to this Difcourfe.

F 1 N IS.