X
A V
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TRAVELS
INTO
NORWAY, DENMARK,
AND
RUSSIA
IN THE
YEARS 1789, I79O, AND I79I.
BY
A, SWINTON, Escb
LONDON:
PRINTED  FOR   C. G ■ J. AND  J. ROBINSON, PATERNOSTER-ROW.
1 il
HER IMPERIAL MAJESTY
CATHERINE II.
EMPRESS OF ALL THE RUSSIAS,
THIS VOLUME OF
TRAVELS INTO SCANDINAVIA
IS
MOST HUMBLY DEDICATED.,
E V
HER IMPERIAL MAJESTY'S MOST DEVOTED
\
AND OBEDIENT SERVANT, .
A. SWINTON.
PREFACE.
1 HE northern parts of Europe are feldom vifited by Englifh Travellers; nor have any of thefe, within the fpace of nfteen years, two Gentlemen only excepted, publifhed their travels.
Mr. Wraxal made a tour of 2,000 miles around the Baltic, in the courfe of five months. It is impoffible either to difregard the admirable alacrity of this Gentleman's movements, or to fuppofe that he had it in his power to draw many of his reflections from actual obfervation. Mr. Coxe travelled at a pace fomewhat ilower, and much more folemn. He has given a 3 us
us many accurate and ufeful details concerning manufactures, commerce, population, public revenue, military eftabliiliments, and the ceremonials obferved in various interviews with which he was honoured by Nobles, Princes, and Kings. Thefe, together with hiftorical extracts from a great number of Writers, with multiplied experiments on the congelation of mercury, made by different Philofo-phers, at different times and places, fwell his volumes to a refpectable fize as well as price.
It is not, however, long details, biographical, hiftorical, or philofo-phical, that are expected by every Reader to form the principal parts of books of travels. What the Traveller himfelf obferved, inferred, fuffered,
or
[ m ]
or enjoyed—but above all, manners, cuftoms, drefs, modes of life, domestic ceconomy, amufements, arts, whether liberal or mechanical, and, in a word, whatever tends to illuftrate the actual ftate of fociety, and that not only among the great, but the body, and even the very loweft of the people : all this, in the opinion of thofe who read rather for amnfement, than the ftudy of either politics or natural philofophy, fhould enter into thole narratives which are fuppofed to hold a kind of middle rank between the folidity of ftudied difcourfe and the freedom of colloquial converfation.
It is on this humble ground that the Author of this volume, notwith-ftanding what has been publifhed by the refpectable Gentlemen above-a 4 men-
mentioned, is induced to offer to the Public a variety of obfervations which he has been enabled to make, by frequent voyages to Denmark, and a re-fidence of feveral years in Ruflia.
With regard to what he has written concerning the naval campaigns between Ruflia and Sweden, he drew his information on that fubject from the Britifh, Ruffian, German, and Swedifh Officers, who were actually engaged in the fcenes defcribed; and, as many of our countrymen diftin-guifhed themfelves in every action which took place, and frequently held the fupreme command, the relation becomes to Britifh fubjects, particularly interefting.
Should the prefentbe received with indulgence, the Author will be encouraged
couraged to publifh another volume, containing additional remarks on the cuftoms, manners, agriculture, and commerce of the Danes and Ruffians; and alfo his Travels through Livonia, Courland, part of Poland, andPruffia, in the year 1791.   It may be proper here to obferve, that the Author, in treating of the commerce and agriculture of Ruffia, will have it particularly in view, to fhow how nearly the interefts of Great Britain and Ruffia are connected, and how falfe that fyftem of policy in either country, that would permit even a coolnefs to fubfirt between them.
The Author trufts that the judicious Reader will not cenfure his mentioning a circumftance connected with the credit due to his publication.
Though
Though he did not arrive in RurTia in time to be introduced to the firffc people, by his honourable and near relation Admiral Greig, that di fad vantage was made up to him, in the nobleft manner, by the refpe£l univerfally paid to that great man's memory.
CONTENTS.
LETTER I.
Voyage acrofs the North Sea—Of the Kraken —The Coaft of Norway, its Appearance—-Of the Ancient Norwegians—Of the Light-Houfes, for the Navigation of the Baltic—Sea Scene. P. i.
LETTER II.
Of the Skaw, the North Point of Jutland----
The Country of our AnceJlorst   P. n»
LETTER III.
Of the dangerous Navigation of the Categate —-Of the Hardfoips of a Sea-faring Life ---Journal of the Voyage in the Categate—* A dreadful Storm—Arrival at Elfineur.
P. 13.
LETTER IV.
Defcription of the Pajfage of the Sound—
Danijh
Danijfj Duties paid here—Elfineur—Hel-fmburg—Ween Ifland, the Rejidence of the Danijh Philofopher Tycho Brake—Copenhagen—Amack I/land----Defcription of
the Danijh Jflands, their Produce and
Commerce----Caufes of the unprofperous
State of Denmark—Anecdote of Sir Algernon Sydney—Of the French Revolution —Refections upon Liberty. P. 20.
LETTER V.
Mr. WraxaPs Account of Denmark unjujl— Of Norway, its great Value to Denmark— Pont oppidan and Wraxal contrafed—New Defcription of Norway—The ancient Inhabitants—Of the Laplanders, their Cuf toms and Manners—Productions of Lapland—Climate of Norway----Has two
Summers and two Winters in the Tear—
Character of the Norwegians----Cuftoms
and Manners—Fijheries—Commerce----
Trades and Manufactures—Hints for the Welfare of Norway* P. 36.
LETTER VI.
Of the Hiftory of Norway—Hijlory of the Icelandic Republic, from its Origin to its Conclufion—Cuftoms and Manners of the
Icelanders----Ancient Expeditions----The
Republic of Iceland, the Afylum of Phi-lojophy and Phikfophers, when all Europe was funk in Gothic Darknefs—The Caufe of its Decline. P. 53^.
LETTER VII.
Hijlorical Anecdotes of Denmark—The frfl Expedition of the Cimbri againjl the Romans-—Laplanders, themojl ancient Inhabitants of Sweden and Norway—Odin, the ancient God of the Scandinavians— His remarkable Death—The Origin of the cruel Wars waged among the Goths, or ancient Danes and Swedes themfelves, after Odins Death—Conquejl of England by the Danes. P. 62.
LETTER VIII.
Anecdotes of the Kings and Queens of Denmark — of the famous Margareth—of
Eric
Eric—of his <$ueen, Philippa, Daughter cf Henry IV. of England—Character of the Modern Danes—The Conquejls of the Goths retarded the Caufe of Freedom in Europe—Prince Royal of Denmark—Manners and Cufloms of the Modern Danes.
P. 69.
LETTER IX.
Voyage from Elfmeur to Riga—Fir/l Battle between the Swedes and Danes—Anecdotes of the King of Sweden—Caufes of the National Jeakufies fubfi■fling between Rufjia and Sweden—Bornholm—Earthholm, the Gibraltar of Denmark—Why the Baltic is more dangerous than other Seas— Storm in the Baltic—Sea Scene—Character of the common Seamen—Coajl of Courland. P. 81,
LETTER X.
Gulph of Livonia—Of the Conflruction of the Northern Veffels—The Norwegian Women equally well Jkilledin Sea Affairs with their Hujbands—Dreadful Storm near Riga— A Shipwrecks—Narrative of the difireffed
Si-
Situation of the Ship in which the Author was—-Arrival at Riga. P. 96.
LETTER XL
Of the River Dwina—Defert Appearance of the Country around—Defcription of Riga—Anecdotes of the Hiftory of Livonia —Ancient Commerce of Ruflia—-Origin of the Ruffian European Commerce—The Author carries the frjl Intelligence to Ruflia of the HoJlHities between the Swedes and Danes— Critical Situation  of the
Ruffian Frontiers----Anecdotes of Count
Vietinghq/f—Of Count Brown, the Governor of Riga—Origin of the Connection of Ruflia with England—The Decline of its Indian Commerce—Correfpondence between the Ruffian and Bfitijh Sovereigns—Scots Emigrants to Ruflia, after the Murder of Charles I.—Thefe advije the Conquefl of the Br ovine es upon the Baltic, from the Swedes—A New CharaEler of Charles XII. of Sweden—Patriotic Plans of the Great Men in Ruflia. P. 107.
LETTER XII.
Of the Ruffians—Of the Germans, the Beauty cf their Women—Mafquerade at Riga— Of the German Mujic- -Cufloms and Man-?iers of the Germans—Of the River Dwina and Harbour of Riga. P. 126.
LETTER XIII.
Death of Admiral Greig—Anecdotes of this great man. P. 135.
LETTER XIV.
Journey along the Coajl of the Gulph of Livonia—Defert Appearance of the Camtry
---Manner of Travelling---Manner of
Crofjing the Rivers, which are without Bridges or Boats—Pojl-IIoufes.   P. 137.
LETTER XV.
Jo iirney to and Arrival at Pernaw, a for fifed Town—Army of Charles XII.----
Siege of Narva and Riga—Trade of Per-naw—-Anecdote of the only Briton who reft des at Bern aw—The Livonian Pea fan-try— The Province of Efhonia—State of Cultivation. P. 143.
LETTER XVI.
The City of Revel—The Ruffian Fleet—The magnificent Funeral of Admiral Sir Samuel Greig, Commander in Chief of the Ruffian Navy—Funeral Oration fpoken by Lieut. Colonel Baron Pahlen, trauflatedfrom the German—Particular Account of the Pro-cejjionfrom the Admiralty to the Cathedral ^--Epitaph upon Admiral Greig,   P, 151.
LETTER XVII.
Of the War with Turkey----Unfortunate
Campaign of the Emperor Jofeph 11— Reafons why the Ruffians, appear flew in their Movements—-Naval Campaign in the Baltic between the Ruffians and Swedes, 1788—Naval Engagement between Admiral Greig and the Duke of Sudermania —The Emprefs of RuJJids Letter to Admiral Greig—The King of Sweden de-ferted by his Officers—The Interference of Great Britain and Prufjia in his favour.
P. 160.
LETTER XVIII.
Life of Admiral Greig—Expedition of the. Ruffian Fleet to the Mediterranean—Naval Engagement of the Turkift and Ruffian Fleets—Burning of the Turkijh Fleet by Admiral Greig—Promoted by the Em-prcfs, in confequence of this gallant Action. —Further Account of the Naval Campaign lySS. P.173.
LETTER XIX.
Defcription of Revel—Sudden Approach of the Ruffian Winter—The Swedifh Fleet— A Palace of Fster the Great.     P. 189.
LETTER XX.
Journey from Revel to Peterjburg in a Sledge —Travelling Drefs of the Ruffians—-Of the Ruffians and Finlanders—A Finland Tavern—Narva—Tamburgh —Ingria. Winter bcene—Arrival at Peterjburg.
P. 194.
LETTER XXI.
Peterjburg—Journey to Cronftadt, over the
frozen
frozen Gulph of Finland—Taking of Oc~ zakeiv by the Rufsians—This Fortrefs will be of great Importance to Rufsia. P. 207.
LETTER XXII.
Winter Drefs, andDiver/ions of the Rufsians—* Manners and Gujloms—Rufsian Jubilee—* Ancient and Modern Drejfes of the Rufsians*
P. 217.
LETTER XXIII.
Peterjburg contains the mojl flriking AJfem-* blage of all Nations—The Rufsian Thea^ tre—The native good Tafle of the Rufsians forMufic. P. 229.
LETTER XXIV.
Eafter Holidays— Of the River Neva~±-Rufsian Climate—Winter Market at Peterjburg, a great Curiofty—The Benefit which the Rufsians derive from the fevere Frofis. P* 237.
LETTER XXV.
Of the Tartar Army at Petersburg—Reflec-b 2 tions
tions upon War—Of the Propriety of driving the Turks out of Europe—-and giving a King to Greece from the Defendants of Peter the Great. P. 243.
LETTER XXVI.
Former State of RuJJia—Of the Tartar Nations—Of the Conquejl of China by the Tartars. P.252.
LETTER XXVII.
Finnifo Nations—Error of M. Buff'on—* Cuftoms and Manners of the Tartar Nations—Of the Religion of barbarous Na-tions—Similarity of Cuftoms between the Tartars and American Indians.   P. 262.
LETTER XXVIIL
The different Tartar "tribes—Marriage Ceremonies—A Tartar Divorce—Trial for Adultery in Tartary—Tartarians Gods and Goddeffes—Funeral Orations—Anecdotes of the Circafsians—A Tartar Love Song. P. 272.
LETTER XXIX.
Cuftoms and Maimers of the Tartars*—In* terejling Anecdote of the Tor got Horde--' Specimens of Tartar Poetry, from the Accounts of the Rufsian Travellers—M. Pallas's Account of the Kalmucs-—Anecdotes of the Tongufiansy the hefl of all the Tartar Nations—Politenefs to their Women.
P. 283.
LETTER XXX.
The Rufsian Amufements upon May-Day— The Approach of Summer. P. 304,
LETTER XXXI.
Rufsian Summer—Anecdotes of Prince Naf-fau—Of Paul Jones—Princefs Dafch-kojf—Count Besborodko—Rufsian Dances — Rufsian Amufements in Summer.
P. 307.
LETTER XXXII.
Character of Peter the Great—Rufsian Nobility—Refeclions upon Modern Luxury, as it regards Commerce and Arts—Picture of Modem Rufsia. P. 320.
LET-
t   xxu* ]
LETTER XXXIII.
fhe Arrival of a Rufsian Regiment from Oc-zakow at Petersburg, under the Command of an Englijh Officer—Anecdotes of one of the young Grand Dukes— Of Princefs Naftfau—Of Captain Bent hick, of the Britifh Navy----Of a Portuguefe Colonel—-
Of Lord Wycombe, Mr. Howardy and his Excellency Mr. Whitworth.        P. 335.
LETTER XXXIV.
Summer Amufements in the Metropolis.----
The Imperial Family—The Public entertained at Count Strogonoffs Gardens.
P. 343.
LETTER XXXV.
Rufsian Climate----A Rufsian Wedding----
Anecdote of an old Rufsian Soldier—Of a Band of Gypfies. P. 354.
LETTER XXXVI.
Naval Campaign^ 1789—Naval Engagement of the Rufsian and Swedifh Galley Fleets—Of the Rufsian and Swed/fh Grand
Fleets
Fleets in the Baltic—Expedition of a Squadron of the Rufsian Fleet, under Captain Trevenen, an Englifld Officer, to the Coafl of Swedijh Finland—Folly of the Northern Bowers in keeping fuch large Fleets— Campaign in Finland. P. 363.
LETTER XXXVIL
Defcription of the City of Petersburg—Old Petersburg—The Citadel—Williams If-land—The Exchange— Mujeum—Imperial Academies—Cadet Corps—Statue of Peter the Great—ImperialPalace, &c, &c.
P. 384.
LETTER XXXVIIL
Defcription of Cronftadt—Fortrefs of Cron-flott—Admiralty—Naval Cadet Academy —Palace of Oranienbaum—Palace of Peterhoff— Anecdotes of Peter the Great.
P. 401.
LETTER XXXIX.
The Abbe Chappe Dy Auteroche his invidious Account of the Ruffians—The vague Accounts
counts given by late Travellers, and the Caufe of it—Character of the Ruffians.
P. 416.
LETTER XI
Of the Plan adopted by Catherine II. for the gradual Emancipation of the Ruffian Pea-fan try—Manners and Cuftoms of the Ruffians—The Simplicity of the Religion of the Peafantry. P. 423.
LETTER XLI.
Soil of the Province of Ingria—Prefent State ej Agriculture—Economy of the Peafantry —Anecdote of the Grand Duke Paul Pe-trovitfch—His Attempt to Emancipate the Teafants—German Colonies for the Improvement of Agriculture— Anecdote of a Sa-moeide Member of the Rufsian Parliament.
P. 439*
LETTER XLII.
Cuftoms and Manners of the Finlanders----
Contrafl of Character between the Rufsian and Finlander—Character of the Rufsians
—Native
—Native Politenefs and Good Nature—• Anecdote of a Rufsian Soldier—Of a Ruffian Sheriff. P. 455.
LETTER XLIII.
Rufsian Climate—Of the Hot and Cold Baths, their ill Effects upon the Conflitution of the Natives—The Rufsians enabled to bear Cold by warm Furs alone—Bhyfical and Moral Effects of the Baths. P. 472.
LETTER XLIV.
Plan for Reformation in the Management of the Ruffian Hofpitals—Anecdote of M* Bleflcheyeff—General Defcription of the Rufjian Empire, its Produce and Commerce
----The Britifh, Commerce with Rufsia ill
conducted—Propcfal for tranfplanting the whole Nation of Finlanders to the Ukraine.
P. 484.
r
ERRATUM.
THE attentive Reader will obferve an i confiftency between the fecond fentence of fecond parapraph, p. 446, and the firft fentence of firft paragraph, p. 447. The in-confiftency will be obviated, by reading line 1, p. 447, for, " Now it is wonderful that," " Now it would k wonderful if"
TRAVELS, &c.
LETTER I.
Voyage acrofs the North Sea—Of the Kraken —The Coafl of Norway, its Appearance— Of the Ancient Norwegians—Of the Light-houfes, for the Navigation of the Baltic—Sea Scene.
North Sea, O&ober, 1788.
dear sir,
I have again ventured upon the' faith!efs deep, and to fuch a peripatetic philofopher as myfelf it makes very little difference where he goes.
This is my third expedition to the north : it is a ftrange whim to get in love with deferts, with ice and withfnow.
B I de-
I delight to fee Nature in her Winter uniform 3 to be furrounded with rugged rocks and frozen oceans.
This is the dreary feafon of the year. Few vefTels are now plowing the main, unlefs thofe fleering homewards to their native fhores. The winds are, however, favourable to us: the fea nymphs, in the fhape of billows, pufli our fhip along.
I fit down for the purpofe of writing to you, by a fnug fire in the cabin ; but the fhip rolls in fuch a manner, that it is with difficulty I can either hold my pen or keep my temper. Perhaps it is the Kraken that moves his huge fides under me ? Where mail 1 find a tub large enough to be thrown out to fuch a whale; whofe eyes behold his tail at the difrance of three miles ? Surely the works of creation are fufficient of themfelves to fill and expand the human mind, though they mould not derive any additional grandeur from the affrighted imagination..
Pon-
Pontoppidan gravely records the hiftory of the Kraken from hearfay, although he refided in Norway, into whofe creeks this fifh fometimes wandered ; but getting a-ground, died and infected the air with its effluvia. The reverend Rifliop does not even aver that he himfelf was incommoded with this fcent: he only mentions thofe who had.
Pontoppidan has, however, produced more certain evidence of the exiif ence of the fea worm, who drags along his flow length of about one hundred yards. This may well fatisfy the admirers of monfters.
Eged, a refpecfable Norwegian writer, in a voyage to Greenland, gives an account of this ferpent, which he himfelf beheld : but he laughs at the credulity of his countrymen, in regard to their tales concerning the Kraken.
In the year 1786, a Norwegian Ship-mafter and his Mate made oath before the B 2 Ma-
Magistrates of Dundee, that they had feen a large fifh, within a few leagues of the coaft of Scotland, which they judged to be three miles in length.
Unfortunately, they defcribed it as re-fembling the fea worm. There is no doubt but that it was this animal; and candid indulgence muft attribute their miftake to their fright.
Some philofophers have imagined the existence of a proportion betwixt the fize of animals and the planet they inhabit: for inftance, they give to Saturn, human animals of fixty feet in ftature; but for this hypothecs, there does not feem to be any analogy in nature. On the contrary, the inhabitants of cold climates, and philofophers fuppofe that the climate of Saturn is cold, are generally the fmalleft in ftature. If thefe philofophers are right in their conjectures, the people of Mercury will not exceed feven or nine inches in height.
Creative
( s )
Creative power has indeed, as far as it has come within our knowledge, obferved a certain proportion between the extent of land and that of waters; and between the animals natives of the one, and the animals inhabitants of the other; but it does not appear that Nature intended a proportion between men and mountains. The proportion in fize between land and fea animals, is not only exact, but even their likenefs to each other j as the fea lion, the fea horfe, the fea dog: and although the whale is much larger than the elephant, the former does not apparently much exceed the latter in ftrength: befides, the exiflence of land animals larger than the elephant, has been proved beyond a doubt. Until, therefore, a land animal is found, one, or two, or three miles in length, the exigence of the Kraken will always be difputed. Milton alludes to this fabulous animal—
■■-- or that fea beaft,
Leviathan, which God of all his works Created hugeft that fwim th' ocean ft ream: Him, haply flumb'ring on the Norway foam.
B 3 On
On the third day after we left the mores of Britain, the rocks of Norway appeared, heaving their rugged precipices awefully above the waves that foamed underneath. I renewed my acquaintance with every hill and mountain, and hailed the ancient domains of our conquerors.
Norway, extending one thoufand miles, from the Naze to the North Cape, is one continued groupe of rocks, hills, mountains, and hanging woods. Norway has her mines of gold and filver too, but thefe feem intended by Nature rather for orna-ment than ufet Her real wealth, and what perhaps is more real wealth than gold, con-fifls in her forefts of timber, her iron and copper mines, and her fifheries.
The Norwegians very early diftinguifh-ed themfelves in naval expeditions; but unfortunately they have only retained their conquefts in the north. They planted colonies in Iceland and Greenland, and, from a party of thefe colonifts are defended
fcended the,Efquimaux, who dwell upon the dreary coafts of Labradore. Sometimes under Kings of their own, fome-times under the Danifh Monarchs, they frequently invaded England, Scotland, and Ireland.    Denmark, during her former greatnefs, ruling over Sweden, and all the kingdoms around the Baltic; the name and actions of the Norwegians were loft in that of Danes. At this day, Norway is the only remain of all the Danifh conquefts— if, indeed, it can now be considered as a conqueft ; for it had fhaken off the Dariifh yoke for many years before the famous Margaret, daughter of Waldemar, King of Denmark, and wife of Hacquin, King of Norway, effected the union of thefe two nations.
We were abreaft of the Naze juft as the lights blazed forth. They are exceedingly ufeful upon fuch a dangerous coalf, and light-houfes are therefore eftablifhed, at proper places, all along from this cape to Elfineur. They were originally erected B 4 for
for the benefit of the fubjefrs of the Danifh Government, who, very reafonably, demanded of foreigners trading to the caff feas, a proportion of the expence. This being readily complied with, the Danes began to think of making thofe lights a matter of revenue, and yearly increafed the dues. As their dominions lay at the entrance of the Baltic, no fhips could pais quietly without their permiflion.
Their extortions at laffc offended the Hanfe-towns, the Dutch, and theEnglifh. After much conteft, the Danes lowered the Sound duties, and all nations acquiefced in paying the rates then fixed.
The rapid increafe of trade within thefe hundred years, has made this part of the revenues of Denmark very considerable, and the moft certain of any they have: it is a revenue of which no other nation has the like—it is entirely independent of the fubjecls.
The
The navigation from the Naze to Elfi-neur is the mod dangerous in the world, particularly at this feafon of the year; and to add to our affliction, there is no moonlight. Here are no regular tides, but rapid currents, fetting or running, according as the winds, or other circumftances, influence them.
It is Saturday night: the mariners, forgetting the dangers of the feas, are making merry in the ffeerage, and drinking the healths of their wives and fweethearts: every feaman is fuppofed to have the one or the other, if not both. Thefe pleafmg entertainments of the heart are reliefs from care, and cheer the brave and honeft fai-lor, amidft his hardlhips and perils.
I continued upon the deck this evening until eleven o'clock. The waves roll after us with more violence than ever: it is owing to the current, and to the narrow ftraight we are now entering, called the
Sleeve,
C   io )
Sleeve, the Categate and this making the figure of an arm.
The fable night hangs his dark brown curtain over us—the ftorm whittles in the fhrouds—no objects are diftinguifhablc but the twinkling of the Naze lights, and the white foaming billows that roar around us. Palinurus watches at the helm ; the mariners talk together of dangers and fhip-wrecks.
(   u )
LETTER II.
OftheSkaw, the North Point of Jutland-The Country of our Anceftors,
XT ail ! daughter of Heaven, orient Light! defpair and melancholy fly before thee : by thy influence the mind is foothed as with the prefence of a deity !
We this moment fee a veffel for the firft time fince our departure; fhe appears to be a Britifh fhip, and we confider her as an acquaintance. Oh! here is more company ; I fee four Danifh fhallops to leeward.
Let me tell you, this is a matter of no fmall consideration in fuch dreary weather: the fine morning is already vanifhed j the fogs are at variance with the fun, and almost fhut out the day.   The Skaw light-
houfe
houfe is in fight: you will remember the account which I gave you of a ftorm I encountered near this place, fome years ago: I dread ever lince to be within fifty miles of it. The Skaw is a low land forming the north point of Jutland, the ancient Cim-brica Cherfonefus, from whence iffued that hive of people called Angles, who conquered England, and gave their name to our country.
Night approaches, and every fign of flormy weather faddens the heavens. The wind is unfavourable, yet we muft do our beft, and pufh on through the dangerous Categate.
I idly wifh I could reach the moon with my arm, and turn her face full upon us, though at the expence of the Newtonian fyftem. If we arrive fafe at Elfineur, I will continue my journal.
LETTER III.
Of the dangerous Navigation of the Categafe —Of the HardfJjips of a Seafaring Life —Journal of the Voyage in the Categafe— A dreadful Storm—Arrival at Elfineur.
Elfineur, Oct. 1788.
w e have, thank God! arrived at Elfineur, after the mod dreadful voyage that ever I experienced. We took our departure from the Skaw light, Sunday evening, and entered the Categate: the night dark, and the wind increafing in violence.
I remonftrated with the Captain, advi-fing him to let the fhip remain where fhe was, until he fhould find a more favourable opportunity. " Poh," faidhe,<c there is no danger; don't be afraid." It was idle to contend; fo I put on the beft face I
could,
could, and went down into the cabin to confult the chart of the Categate. The Captain and Mate were no lefs anxious on this fubject than I was; and neither of them went to bed.
Our firft courfe was directed to the Nid-dingen lights, upon the coaft of Sweden, and our firft care to avoid the Treenail, a dangerous flioal lying in the way. You cannot imagine our terror at the moment when involved in total darknefs; we reckoned the fhip to be abreaft of this dreadful fhoal, which, for aught we knew, might be within a few yards of us. What adds to the horror of fuch fituations, is, that other {hips muft be nearly in the fame tract, and confequently in danger of running foul of one another.
The Captain took the compafTes from me, to meafifre different charts: he went upon deck with the Mate, came down a-gain, and re-examined his charts.
The
The Captain had a young fon, of whom he was very fond. " Oh !" exclaimed this veteran feaman, attempting to ftifLle a ri-fmg figh, " I wonder how thefe young creatures incline to go to fea 1"
" Well," fays the Captain, " you condemn me for taking the Categate in contrary winds, and threatening weather? But did not you fee another fhip to-day do the fame ? And what would my Owners think of me, were other vefiels to make their paffage, while I, agreeably to your advice, might be lying in fome harbour in Norway ? Our Owners do not confider winds and currents; they expecl their Ship-mafters to be as quick in their voyages as others; and whatever thefe do, I mufl do alfo, or give up mybufinefs." " I replied, that no doubt it was the duty of Shipmaf-ters to do every thing for the intereft of their employers. At the fame time, it was carrying the idea of duty too far, to rifk wantonly the lives of themfelves and crews. In the prefent inftance, I infilled it would have been acting prudently, to have remained
malned at the entrance of the Categate, or to have gone into fome port in Norway." " And how would the voyage have proceeded," interrupted the Captain, " while we lay in Norway ?"—" As well as it will do, if you run your fhip afhore upon the Treenail." " But then confider that men's wages are running on, and provisions con-fumed." " That," I obferved, " could not be attributed to the fault of the Shipmaster; and that, were it my own cafe, after waiting in Norway fome reafonable time, for favourable winds, and none mould appear in due feafon for proceeding to the Baltic, I mould certainly fail homewards, or act as I thought molt advantageous for the Owners: by taking a freight elfe-where, as my orders, or other circumstances might point out." The Captain fmiled: the Mate, difcharging the effenceof his tobacco, fwore he would like to fail with me were I Shipmaster."
About midnight we faw the Niddingen lights a-head, which eafed our hearts a
good
wood deal, as we knew from this circum-fiance that we had palled the Treenail. The Niddingen lights are two in number, in a low situation, {landing near to each other.
There are two lights likewife at the Naze, the one higher than the other: abreaft of thefe, veifels have the appearance of being one or two miles feparated.
We put the fhip about, and made feve-ral fliort tacks during the night, it being equally hazardous upon all fides of us 5 but as we were clear of the Treenail, I laid my-felf down in my hammock to enjoy amort repofe.
The morning came, and the wind abated. We now approached the Niddingen light-houfes, which had been our leading ftars *m the dark, on the rugged coaftof Sweden. A number of ihips paf-fed us this day, coming from the Baltic, of different nations. Towards the even-C ing
ing the wind role, and directly contrary : we prepared, by reefing top-fails, for a ftormy night. The wind increafed to a tempeft, the top-fails were handed, and the fhip laid to.
Our situation was alarming : the ftorm drove the fhip directly towards the Treenail j from which we were not yet far dif-tant. The night was utter darknefs, and the lights of the Niddingen were either intercepted by the haze, or too far off to be diftinguifhed. Defpair was painted in every face ; but as no effort availed, the failors, worn-out with watching the preceding evening, went to fleep i—fome below, fome upon deck. The ftorm now raged with redoubled violence : the fhip laboured amidft the fea, tumbling from fide to fide, every furge dafhing over her, and driving her nearer to the fatal Treenail.
Had I inclined to fleep, the roaring of the waves under me, and all around, would have terrified it away.
The
The morning came, and with it hope : I never before beheld with fuch pleafure the rifing of the fun! The ftorm continued without abating of its violence until eight o'clock; when, with the quick-nefs of lightning, it changed, and blew with equal violence from an oppofite quarter.
We fpread our fails to this favourable hurricane, and foon made the land of the Koll, at the entrance of the Sound ; and pairing this, we arrived in Elfineur-roads at five o'clock in the afternoon.
LETTER IV.
Defcription of the Pajfage of the Sound— Danijh Duties paid here—Elfineur—Hel-finburg—Ween I/land, the Reftdence of the Danijh Philofopher Tycho Brake—Copenhagen—Amack I/land----Defcription of
the Daniftj //lands, their Produce and
Commerce----Caufe s of the unprofperous
State of Denmark—Anecdote of Sir Algernon Sydney—Of the French Revolution —Refections upon Liberty.
Zealand, Oft. 17S8.
The narrow fea which feparates Zealand, the chief Ulan d of Denmark, from Sweden, and is commonly known by the name of the Sound, begins at the Koll Cape, in the latter kingdom, and the north point of Zealand over againft it.
I prefume, the name Sound is given
by
by mariners, from the method they are obliged to take in failing through this intricate channel, by founding, or fathoming the depth of water, to direct: them in their courfe.
*
Elfineur is the grand turnpike-gate to the Baltic. Here every nation is tributary to Denmark : the only relief of her former greatnefs, and dominion over all the northern land and feas 1 The duties paid at Elfineur by foreigners amount annually from 70,000 to 8o,oool. fterling. In 1692, only 250 Englifli mips palled the Sound, while 1100 Dutch traded to the Baltic.   The whole duties then collected at Elfineur did not amount to more than 13,0001. fterling. In the year 1787, above 3000 Englifli and Dutch mips paffed the Sound, a finking inftance of the increafe of the Britifh trade, and of its afcendency over that of every rival.
Here are always numerous fleets of merchant fhips paffing and repairing, who C 3 muff,
( M )
muff, as an additional acknowledgment of the fovereignty of Denmark, lower their top-fails, or hoift their colours in compliment to the Danifh flag difplayed from the fortrefs of Cronenburg •> while the Swedifh flag from the ramparts of Heifin-burg, upon the oppofite fide, remains unnoticed.
Sweden has a valuable confideration for fubmitting to this, and for paying the Sound duties, with other nations i—-the peaceable poflefhon of the provinces of Schonen, Holland, and Bleking, which had long been the caufe of bloody wars betwixt the two nations. Elfineur is a fmall town, yet carries on a considerable trade. As Government lay the mips under contribution, fo the merchants lay the mips crews, in the fale of brandy, tea, china, and other wares. The ftreets are crowded with failors, difplaying their oratory in different languages.
The Danes, in former ages, ufed to raife contributions among foreigners in
a more
( n )
a more heroic manner. Thofe tales of ancient times appear now as romance. The fouls of their Frothos, their Canutes, and their Waldemars, are perhaps now doing penance in the bodies of fome cus-tom-houfe clerks, and ihopkeepers ; ftill plundering, though under the more fpe-cious name of profit, duties, and commif-fion.
You cannot imagine a more noble prof-peel, than is prefented to the eye, wriile you fail through the (trait feparating Denmark from Sweden. The Koll forming the fouth-weft corner of the latter kingdom, heaves its majeftic fides to a great height, and furnilhes a fite for one of the lights for the direction of mariners.
As we come round this mountain, the caftle of Cronenburg, and town and roads of Elfmeur, attract our notice, and the delightful more of Zealand, variegated with parks, woods, and farm-houfes, the lands gently fweliing into hills, or fpread-
C 4
ing out into plains. The coaft of Sweden to the left, though not mountainous, does not give that idea of fertility, which in-flantly fprings up in the mind on the light of Denmark. In Sweden the foil in many parts seems bleak and fandy.
We viewed the town of Helfmburg, an irregular collection of red houfes, upon the fea more, fronting Elfineur, and fepa-rated by the channel, not exceeding two Englifli miles in breadth.
PafTmg the caftle of Cronenburg, a fine gothic building, fituated clofe by the water, we enjoyed a profpecl of the Iiland of Ween, diitinguiQied by the ruins of Urani-bou.'-gj the city of Heaven, an obfervatory built by the celebrated Danifh aftronomer, or TychoBrahe. It is a flat fpot, and fituated nearly in the middle of the ftrait. I took a drawing of this obfervatory, which is placed upon the fouth point of this iflet. No fragments remain of the city of the Stars, formerly fituated in the center of this
iliand.
Hand. It has fallen, together with Ty-cho's fyftem of the planets. However, for the honour of this philofopher, a part remains, both of his fyftem and of his city.
As we fail towards the eafl from Elfineur, the fpires of Copenhagen gradually rife before us to the right j and upon the left the fea opens, the coait of Sweden running more and more northwards.
The fite of Copenhagen is fo low, that it feems, even at a fmall diftance, to be built in the water : yet the appearance is truly noble.
This capital of Denmark is formed by Nature to be the miftrefs of the Baltic.
The Danifh iilands are placed like cen-tinels at the entrance, and ftotwithftand-ing the paflage of the Belt is fafer than this by the metropolis, the Danes 'have wifely contrived that foreigners mall view
the
the relicts of their former power. A frigate is flationed in the Belt, to prevent merchant mips from taking that courfe, and to oblige them to fail by fhe Sound.
The Danifli Monarch, from his palace windows, fees the fleets of Britain and of Holland in review before him,and fubfcrib-ing to his revenues : if he fees at the fame time his rival Sweden, and provinces, as lias been remarked by a certain writer, taken from his anceftors, this circumftance fhould give him more pleafure than pain : thefe provinces are the natural property of Sweden, bounded and feparated from Denmark by the ocean. They were the occafion, while claimed by the latter, of much blood-ihed, as well as bitter inveteracy between the two nations.
Buoys are fixed to direct veflels in the very narrow channel oppofite to Copenhagen ; for though the fea be broad here, it is (hallow in many parts, and altogether unnavigable, except in the moft favourable
ble winds and weather. You view wrecks upon every fide. This difficult (trait is called by mariners the Grounds.
The Bland of Amack, upon which (lands a part of Copenhagen, and which is   not  diitinguiihable   from Zealand, bounds this narrow channel to the fouth; and the fmall town of Dracor, in Amack, fupplies pilots to thofe (hips who make a fignal for them.   When we have palled Dracor, we are clear of the dangers of the Sound ; but other dangers appear in the furrounding Danifh iflets to the right, and the Swedilh reefs of Falilerfburn to the left, where, however, a light-houfe directs the wandering failor.
I have, in a former voyage, vifited mod of the Danifh illands. Zealand is the largeft, and has the honour to contain both the ancient capital of Rolchild and that of Copenhagen. Funen, the next in magnitude, lies to the fouth well of Zealand, and near to the peninfula of Jutland. Between
( *s )
tween Zealand and Funen is that arm of the Baltic called the Great Belt. The other iflandsare, Falfter, Langeland, Sam-foe, Mona, Femeren, and a number of leifer ones. *
The fertility of thefe iflands, if we confider the poor ftate of agriculture and the climate, is wonderful : their crops are principally rye and oats; and their pastures maintain numerous herds of all kinds of cattle.   As Copenhagen is the only harbour where large velfels can enter, the trade of them all centers there; and every day, during Summer, the fmall Danifh fhallops are bringing in the produce of the iflands to this market} from whence they are again exported to the various parts of the Danifh dominions ; one ifland or province, at this great mart, bartering for the commodities of the other. The fifti, the oil, the tar, the iron, the furs of Norway and Iceland, are exchanged for the corn and beef of Zealand, Funen, the other iflands, and Jutland.
Denmark
Denmark Proper, confuting of thefe iflands, and this peninfuia, cannot fpare much to foreign markets, except cattle; but Norway has abundance of commodities left, after bartering with the parent ftate, and carries on a vaft trade with all Europe. Indeed Norway is the brightefl jewel in the Danifh crown : her woods, her mines, her fifheries are inexhaultible, and her natives brave and hardy.
The productions of Norway, too, are belt calculated for the welfare of a commercial kingdom ; they are bulky; require many fhips to export them, and prove a grand nurfery for feamen. The fleet of Denmark is built with her timber, and manned with Norwegian feamen ; and if the Danifh army were fupported from fources equally natural, fhe would no longer be the jeft of the world.
There is no foreign enemy that fhe has to dread : but if her army is to protect her from enemies at home, her fituation
is
is to be pitied. While Denmark and Sweden were contending for empire, numerous armies were neceffary to the attainment of their refpeclive objects ; but their Handing armies might have ceafed at the figning of the treaty of Stockholm, when both parties, after defolating both kingdoms, were at laft fully fatisfied that all farther contention ferved not any good purpofe. Yet Sweden and Denmark ftill maintain armies to mew jvhat they are ftill willing to do, without daring to do any thing.   This is being at much pains and expence to mortify themfelves. Nations where trade increafes, can afford an increafe of taxes : unluckily for Denmark, her taxes have increafed without any increafe of trade.
A few India goods excepted, fhe has added nothing to her exports or imports thefe two hundred years. Her Monarchs have confequently been reduced to the moft miferable expedients for Supporting their army 5 forcing their fubjecfs to take
copper
(   3i )
copper inftead of fdver coins, &c. Op-preffion forced complaints, and Government had fits of oeconomy and various fchemes of improvement and reformation. The mod: fimple and eafy remedy, is, to reduce the army. Revolutions are kindling over Europe, and the King of Denmark will have other Kings to keep him in countenance, in any change that may take place in favour of the liberties of his people.
The Danes made a compliment of their freedom to his anceftor Frederic III. The prefent Sovereign would act with equal magnanimity and prudence, if he mould give back the compliment with a good grace, before the period arrive when he muff do it with a bad one.   The world at laft turns wife, and will no longer fubmit to be ruled by one, nor by one thoufand tyrants, which was frequently the only choice left to a nation. The prefent times call to mind an anecdote of Sir Algernon
Sydney
Sydney when Ambaflador at the Court of Denmark. *
In the King's library was a manufcript in which all perfons were allowed to write any fhort motto, or diftich ; Sir Algernon wrote down the following ;
Manus hcec inimlca Tyrannh,
Enfe petit placidam jub liber t ate quiet em.
The French Ambaflador, Monf. Terlon, underftanding, though he did not read Latin himfelf, that thefe verfes contained fome reflections upon the French Government, and alluded to French influence in Denmark, tore them out. The French are now going to adopt this motto, notwithstanding the difgrace put upon it by the learned Monf. Terlon.
It is, unfortunately, to be apprehended, from fo lively and fickle a people as the
French,
* Moles wort m.
French, that they will not be Satisfied with that rational degree of freedom which is confident with good government: that they will dream of golden ages before the clouds of the iron one are removed from their horizon ; and requeft, in childifh fits of liberty, for the very crown of their Monarch to play with.
As this nation has long given us the patterns for our cloaths, they will no doubt now attempt to give us patterns of freedom.
Alas! the confequences of fuch attempts will ftir up an additional number of enemies to thofe who will naturally oppofe them even in their juft claims to the liberties of men. Their fooliili effort to go beyond the bounds of rational liberty, may give juft caufe to the Sovereigns of Europe, to endeavour to prevent the contagious example from Spreading among their fubjecfs 3 and in the ftruggle, the French may lofe a part of their newly re-D deemed
deemed inheritance. If the French ffiould abufe what it is now in their power to obtain, a free and equitable government and laws, it may retard rather than forward the caufe of freedom throughout Europe. The bloody ffxuggle both of civil and foreign war may deter other nations from endeavouring to make off the chains of defpofifm, when they fee thefe fucceeded by anarchy and devaftation. Upon the other hand, if the foreign troops employed againff. France refufe to fight, againft what will be termed the caufe of freedom, (aninfectious word!) the peace of Europe is at an end for centuries.
Frenchmen lately beheld with envy the Situation of Britons, and dared not to hope ever to reach to an equal rank with them among mankind. Britons faw and applauded their noble attempt to break their bonds; and Frenchmen may truft, that the moment in which Britons ceafe to applaud their conduct, their flruggles will obtain every thing but freedom.
The
The Britifh conftitution mould be their model in forming a new government. The Britifh conftitution has many faults, but thehappinefs, the profperity, the greatnefs of our nation proves our government the beft in exiftence!
Frenchmen,, as yet inexperienced in what liberty confifts, fhould not venture to. model a conftitution for themfelves. The more exalted their ideas of liberty, the wider they will lead them aftray, in endeavouring to reduce thofe ideas to practice. Painters never draw the human figure fo well as when the living fubftance is actually before their eyes. The Britifh conftitution is the beft living figure of liberty now in the world. When the French have finifhed their drawing of another image agreeably to their own ideas, let them compare the two together! Thofe attributes of freedom, happinefs, profperity, power, muft be the ftandard to judge by!
LETTER V.
Mr. WraxaTs Account of Denmark unjuft-*-* Of Norway, its great Value to Denmark—> Pontoppidan and Wraxal contra/led—New Defcription of Norway—The ancient Inhabitants—Of the Laplanders, their Cuftoms and Manners—Productions of Lapland—Climate of Norway----Has two
Summers and two Winters in the Tear—•
Character of the Norwegians----Cuftoms
and Manners—Fifheries-—Commerce—-Tr*tdes and Manufactures—Hints for the Welfare of Norway.
Zealand, Oil. 178I.
"DENMARK, can boaff," fays Mr. Wraxal, " of a vaft extent of dominion; " but of what importance are the barren " and almoft uninhabited mountains of
" Norway
cc Norway and Lapland ftretching to the c« pole, or the plains of Iceland, where the •* inhabitants are yet, and will probably " ever remain in the moft profound bar-" barifm ?"   Mr. Wraxal might as well have added, of what importance is the whole kingdom of Denmark, feeing that Norway is by far the moft valuable part ? Writers fhould be cautious of degrading countries, and their inhabitants, which they have never feen. This gentleman has not even paid any regard to the beft accounts of Norway and Iceland.
It is not every thing that is related of Lapland that can with juftice be applied to thofe countries.   A confiderable part of Norway is as diftant from the pole as Great Britain ; and, making allowance for its continental lituation, enjoys a climate nearly as mild.  It is true, the foil is not the moft fertile ; but the name of barren is not Suited to a country producing fuch fine timber, and in fuch quantities.
D z Mr*
Mr. Wraxhal, determined to abufe Denmark at a time when there was a mifun-derflanding between the Danifh Court and that of London, has rejected every authority in favour of the Danifh dominions, both in profe and verfe :
"■' the tallcft pine Hewn on Norwegian hills to be the mail Of fome great Admiral ■ Milton.
The Norwegian worn en are celebrated for their fecundity ; and every inhabitable part of Norway fwarms with people : vafl regions are covered with woods, we need not fay with rocks, becaufe the very rocks are covered with pine trees : it is common to fee trees growing, and twitting their roots for their Support and nourifh-ment around, and into every crevice of the ftone, where there is no foil vifible. Every precipice in Norway is overhung with thefe nodding plumes.
Nature has done much for Norway : but the worthy Bifhop of Bergen has done
more ;
more : he nas rcprefentcd Mr. Wraxal's defert as a perfect paradife, and held up every weed and fhell produced in this country to the admiration of posterity.
It is aftonifhing, with what expedition a heaven or a hell can be created, if once a writer ferioufly puts his hand to work !
The Bifhop very gravely celebrates the Norwegians for their politenefs : " A Nor-" wegian Burgher," fays he, " is as po-V lite as a Danifh Nobleman 1"
Might not a compliment be paid to the one, without offending the other ?
I am inclined to call in queftion the politenefs even of a Norwegian Bifhop, from this Specimen of the Suffragan of Bergen.
Norway, orNorwey, has its name from its fituation, /. c. the northern way ; the way to the north.   It is divided into five provinces : firft, Wardhus, or Norwegian D 4 J^apland.
Lapland. Of this province it is Sufficient to obferve, that it lies within the Artie Circle. The natives are a diftincr. race from the inhabitants of the other provinces: they are an ignorant, but a harmlefs people.
They were probably the firft inhabitants of Sweden and Norway ; the firft adventurers from Scythia, and driven from the Southern parts into thofe dreary dc-Serts, by new invaders, long before their irruptions into Britain. Hiftorians agree that thofe fwarms firft choaked up every corner of the north, and that it was in Search of more room, and of bread, rather than of fame and conqueft, that they marched to the fouth.
The poor Laplanders then dwelling in Sweden and Norway, were no doubt firft difmherited: they have ftill traditions among them, of battles with thofe invaders ; and from their manners and cuftoms at this day, we can trace their Scythian origin. The
Goths,
(   4i )
Goths, I fhould fuppofe, did not make choice of the northern mountains for a dwelling place, until they had attempted the richer foil, and finer climate of France and Italy. They were driven back by Ma-rius into Germany j from whence, as it was unable to Support increafing Swarms of yearly emigrants, they would be obliged to pafs over into Scandinavia.
How the Laplanders came into Sweden, and at what period, bids defiance almoffc even to conjecture.   I cannot think they entered Sweden and Norway by the way of Germany.   This fine country would have detained them.   It is more probable that their unlucky flars led them by the head of the Bothnian Gulph. Thofe dif-mal regions upon the frozen ocean, from Wardhus to the northern cape of Kam-fcatka, are ftill inhabited by a race of men Similar to the Laplanders, and who, no doubt, had taken the fame ill-Sated journey from Tartary.
The natives of Wardhus maintain themfelves chiefly by fifhing in Summer -} and they lay up a flock of fifh too for the long Winter. They have, befides, great herds of rhein deer, which are to them instead of horfes and cows: they live upon their milk, feldomkili them, and when they have fiefh meat, it is of the bear and other animals, which they procure by hunting. Their habitations are tents in Summer, erecled near the moll favourable fpots for hunting, fifhing, and grazing.
In Winter, they bury themfelves in conical huts, covered with earth, to keep out the fevere cold. The furs of the bear and wolf furnifh them with cloathing. Unacquainted with luxury, and unaccuf-tomed to hardfhips, they have few wants.
The Norwegians and Danes have at Iaft prevailed upon them to believe that they are in want of fome things, and they exchange their furs for brandy, meal, and other articles.   As their country produces
fo
fo few commodities for trade, they inge-nioufly contrived fome others. They were formerly famous for dealing in winds, thunder, and lightning, wholefale and retail and ftill, now and then, pick up a foolilh mariner to purchafe a talifman, and magical notes.
The Crown of Denmark receives little benefit from this clafs of its Subjects: a few fkins and fifh are all they have to fpare. The Danifh Government, neverthelefs, takes fome pains in civilizing the Laplanders 5 and the Miflionaries have converted many of them to Chriflianity.— Driven, at an early period, from the fouth-ern provinces of Sweden and Norway, they were not inftructed in the doctrines of Chriflianity, on their introduction into thofe kingdoms : but they efcaped the deluge of blood with which Chriftians afterwards covered one another, for ages.— Drontheim is the next province to Ward-hus ; and here begins what is commonly called Norway, as diftinguiihed from Norwegian
wegian Lapland. The next is Bergen ; and the other two, bordering upon the arm of the fea leading to the Categate, are Agcr-hus and Bahus.
Norway has two Summers and two Winters. Towards the fea coafts, and efpe-cially in the fouthern parts, the climate is mild ; neither too hot in Summer, nor too cold in Winter. The neighbourhood of the ocean, eafily accounts for this happy temperature. Inland, the Summer is as hot as the Winter is cold. The high mountains obftrucf the oblique rays of the Winter fun from warming the deep vallies between them, and retain long, upon their tops, ice and Show.
As the mountains occafion an increafe of cold in Winter, fo they are the caufe of increafed heat in Summer.
The fun, more vertical, darts his ray£ into the vallies, and upon the mountains Sides, which, clofely iurrounding the vallies,
lies, collect: thefe rays as in a focus. The farther to the north, the effect is the ftronger, as the caufe is increafed by the greater altitude of the fun, and his longer continuance above the horizon.   In Lapland, the fun, for fome time in Summer, is feen revolving round the earth, without fetting; and when he fets, it is for fo fliort a fpace, that the vallies have not had time to cool, when his fierce rays again heat them.
But this orb, as if it had exhausted its ftrength and heat, never rifes to enlighten thefe dreary lands in Winter. A feeble twilight, a darknefs vifible accompanies his approach to the horizon : but his glowing edge is never feen, nor is there a cloud gilded with his beams 1
Lapland has only one day, and one night, in the year: her day, of two months continuance ; her gloomy night, of ten!
The moon, however, chears the Laplander, and the reflection of her rays upon
the fnow and ice, which Spreads every where, gives Sufficient light for their Winter's work and travelling.
Indeed they could not travel at any other feafon. The fnow fmooths the rugged way, and enables the rhein deer to draw the fledges with amazing rapidity. How admirable is the providence of Nature !—. Were the fun to ihine upon Lapland during Winter, and at the fame time mould the fnow continue upon the ground, it would deprive the inhabitants of fight. — Even the reflection of the moon's rays from the fnow occafions blindnefs in many of the natives. The laws of Nature have rendered the continuance of the fun and of fnow, for any length of time, above the horizon, incompatible.
The Norwegians are a fine race of men, of a free and generous fpirit, and watch over their liberties with unremitted vigilance. Many ages have elapfed fince they have fettled quietly at home, and ceafed to
diflurb
difturb the liberties of others. The Norwegians are all hufbandmen, fifhermen, or mariners. There are few other diftincc profeffions among them: every one, as is commonly the cafe in northern countries in general, is his own taylor, carpenter, fhoemaker, fmith, &c. They fhow much ingenuity in every thing they undertake; and fome of the greater!: curiofities in the Royal Mufeum at Copenhagen are the handy-works of Norwegian peafants.
The fifheries upon the coafts of Norway, and merchant mips, employ one-half of the natives; the other half are employed in agriculture, the iron and copper mines, cutting, tranfporting, and fawing of timber, and fhip-building. The fea coafts are fo formed, as to fave the trouble and expence of many nets in their fifheries : the whole is a kind of net-work of rocks, and thoufands of fmall inlets of the fea, always filled in the feafon with fhoals of fifh. The Norwegians have only to caft a net at the entrance of the inlet, in order
to
to prevent the fifh from going away, and another to drag them to the more. Several kinds are falted j others arc cured by the fimple procefs of Spreading them upon the rocks.
After laying in their yearly quantity for home confumption, and for the merchant veffels, the Norwegians export vaft quantities to every corner of Europe. There are numbers of rivers in Norway; but an inconveniency occurs, naturally to be expected in fuch a mountainous country: their navigation, even for fmall boats, is interrupted by water-walls. The timber cut in the inland foreils is fadly broken, before it arrives at the fea-ports, being hurled down every cataract in its way, and with fuch force, as to be dallied againfl the rocky bottom of the river beneath. For this there is no remedy, as the carriage by land would be impracticable, and at any rate, attended with an expence double the value of the balks. The property of many different merchants is floated
down
down at the fame time, and each is enabled to know his own at its arrival, by his diftinguifhing mark, put upon the trees at the time of their being cut down in the woods.
Great Britain is the principal market for their timber.   The vaft quantity exported, and the difficulty of bringing the balks from the new forefts, at great distance?, which rauft be reforted to, when thofe nearer are thinned or cut down, has raifed the prices confiderably, within thefe few years j and the practice of cutting the young trees, for foreign markets, will add to the fcarcity and price.   The Danifh Government ought to make a ferious inquiry into thefe matters, for if the price increafes in proportion to what it has done of late, the Britifh importer will find out other markets where to fupply himfelf at cheaper rates.
The Norwegians begin to copy the Englifli in the modelling of their fliips,
E and
C so )
and build very fine ones for fale, as well as for their own ufe. The clunify gallies of the Hanfe-towns, the firft European commercial ftates, are no longer the models for the fhips of other nations; though feveral of the cities who were in this famous compact, ftill perfift in the old fa-Jhion of their arks, which firft floated upon ourfeas, in order to preferve, no doubt, fome remembrance of their former Splendour.
The Norwegians are active and honourable in their dealings, and exceedingly keen in proSecuting fchemes of trade.
They are celebrated for their longevity, and of a hardy ftrong conftitution, both of body and mind. They do not bury themfelves in furs, as moft of the northern people do; they pique themfelves on keeping cold at defiance, and, to fhew their hardinefs, they will even put fnow into their bofoms. A warm drefs is confidered as effeminate: and this idea feems to be
received
received too amongft Britons. At this day, there are greater numbers that die in Britain of cold, than of all other difeafes, not originating in colds, put together : and this evil entirely arifes from a foolifh pride of flrutting about in thofe thin dices of modern manufacture. The golden fleeces of our fheep, given us by kind Nature, to guard us againft the peculiar inconstancy of our climate, is fretted away into Spider's webs.   For my part, I am at no lofs to decide which appears moff effeminate, to wear a comfortable great-coat, or to fhiver to death under a gauze tippet. The Norwegians do not carry the jert fo far— it is only with their bofoms they ufe freedom, in the pride of their heart. They wear cloaths of coarfe warm fluffs.
The Norwegians are exceedingly fond of dancing : they are continually trotting to the found of a violin. In Winter there is a ball in every third houfe in every town in Norway, each evening: and even in Summer, when their daily labours are over, they affemble in parties, to dance and drink.
E 2 I have
( 5* )
I have feen the Norwegian failors dancing upon their fhip's deck at fea, in calm weather; and one never meets with their vefTels at fea without hearing a concert, if the weather is moderate. Their mufic is without melody, and their playing without artbut they are determined to be pleafed.
Of a lively difpofition, they are quick and violent in their paffions, efpecially when intoxicated. In former times, it was common for the guefts at an entertainment to have knives in their belts, ready to determine upon the fpot, any quarrel that might arife in the courfe of the feaft. The laws have now curbed this cuftom of Monarchs j and the Norwegian fells his knife, and all his moveables and immoveables, to enable him to ruin himfelf by Iaw-fuits with every perfon who vexes him; nay, when he is ruined, he is certain of a fubfcription from his neighbours, to help him to renew his attacks.
LETTER VI.
Of the Hiftory of Norway—Hiftory of the Icelandic Republic, from its Origin to its Conclufon—Cuftoms and Manners of the
Icelanders----Ancient Expeditions*-—The
Republic of Iceland, the Afylum of Phi-lofophy and Philofophers, when all Europe was funk in Gothic Darknefs—The Caufe of its Decline.
Norway, as moft other kingdoms, has had her tyrants. It was at a time when the iron hand of defpotifm bore down juftice and freedom, that a chofen band of god-like fpirits chole to retire to the frozen plains of Iceland, rather than behold their country overwhelmed in a tide of violence and oppreffion, which they could not ftem. They carried along with them their virtues, and their love of liberty.
E3 The
They received under their protection the opprefTed from every quarter; and when that Gothic eclipfe involved Rome, and with it, all the world in darknefs, Iceland was the only fpot, if we except the Hebrides, with fome of the remoter districts in Ireland and Scotland, both anciently known under the name of Scotia, illuminated with civilization, with arts and Sciences,
To Iceland, as to a fortreSs of heaven, the peaceful philofopher retreated, bringing with him the wrecks of learning faved from the wide ruin. This is the facrcd Spot! this is the people degraded by an Englifh traveller!
From the uSe frequently made of the term barbarifm, I am at a lofs to guefs what they, who make this ufe of the word, mean. The Norwegians, and particularly the Icelanders, even of the loweft claifes, are taught early the duty of men and of Chriftians.
They
They are fifhermen, and have not much occahon for claffical education; but every one of them can read, write, and under-Hand the common rules of arithmetic. —■Will any one venture to affert, that the loweft ranks of the people of England, are equal to them in this refpecl ?
But the hiftory of Iceland is not lefs diftinguifhed by another circumftance of very great curiolity and importance. Of ancient nations we know not the beginning, of the modern we know not the end.
The hiftory of Iceland, clear and undoubted in its origin, progrefs, and termination, prefents to the mind fomething that is entire, and by which curiofity is ftrongly raifed, and fully gratified.
The republic of Iceland exhibited, in the courfe of four hundred years, the revolutions ufually incident to nations. The foundations of this government were laid ,E4 in
in the middle of the ninth century, when the encroachments of Kings urged men to take flielter in the uncultivated regions of freedom. Adventurers from Norway, Scotland, the Hebrides, and Ireland, fettling with their families and effects on unoccupied fhores, wherever the conveniences of pafturage andof fifhing invited them, lived at firft in patriarchal Simplicity and independence.
The increafe of population gave birth to difputes, and the inftitution of laws. The heads of families formed a general affem-bly, which met annually, and made laws by the general confent, according to new circumftances and Situations. Thofe laws, though at firft merely oral, were handed down from father tofon with great exact -nefs; and, in the progreftion of time, they were confirmed by the refpect which is ufually paid to cuftom. Letters were introduced with Chriftianity into Iceland, at the beginning of the eleventh century. The laws of cuftom, enriched with others
drawn
drawn from the ftores of literature and the Chriftian religion, were now written in a book, of which one copy was depo-fited in the place diftinguifhed by the annual meeting of the general affembly, and another in the houfe of the Bifhop of Ice^ land.
In the Icelandic Wittenagemct, or general affembly, two men of venerable character were biennially chofen, by general confent, to prefide in the courts of justice, where trials were carried on, as in other parts of Europe, by Juries, and declare the law in cafes of difpute. Thofe Confuls, or, as they were called,Law-men, originally recited, and after the introduction of letters, read the laws annually to the heads of families, or freemen, convened in the general affembly ; as thefe again did to their bondmen and their tenants.
There were alfo provincial alTemblies, in which the laws were read or recited to
the
the people of the different diftricts of the country. And when the laws were written, it was enacted, that they mould be read in fuch feciions and portions, and at fuch ftated times, that the whole mould be finifhed in a period of three years. Be-fides all this, fchools were eftablifhed for the ftudy of the law, but there were not any lawyers by profeflion.
In the mean time, men of enterprize made excurfions into other countries as merchants, as pirates, and as foldiers of fortune ; which gave them . an opportunity of becoming acquainted with the laws and cuftoms of other nations, both in the wcftern and eaftern parts of Europe. Icelandic foldiers ferved in the armies of the Englifli, the Danes, the Ruffians, and alfo of the Greek Emperors, from whofe illuftrious capital they imported into their native land many of thofe laws that were found in the Jnfti-nian and Theodofian codes at a later period.   And here it is proper to obferve,
that
that every traveller was obliged, by an ex-prefs ftatute, on his return to Iceland, to give an account of whatever had appeared molt remarkable in other countries, and of whatever cuftom might be imitated, with advantage, by his own.
The Subjects of the Icelandic republic, fo long as they adhered to their laws, and preferved their freedom, flouriflied in agriculture, in manufactures and in trade ; increafcd in numbers ; and in arms appeared refpectable in the fight of their neighbours, by fea and land.
Ruined inclofures, veftiges of hedgerows, with regular plantations of trees and traces of the plough on plains now covered with heath, emphatically mark the contraft in point of cultivation, between the former and the prefent ftate of Iceland. Written records Ihew that the Icelanders traded to all the ports of the world : and their population at this day, under an hundred thoufand, has been computed
on
on probable grounds, to have amounted, in the moft flourishing period of the republic, to half a million.
At a period when the reft of Northern Europe was funk in ignorance, and dif-tracted with war, Iceland, the nurfe of the mufes, as well as of the ufeful arts, enjoyed the bleflings of equal laws, extensive commerce, and profound peace. But this profperous ftate of affairs was not of long duration.
Sovereign Princes from the Kings of Macedon, to thofe of Spain and France, have been found in general hoftile to neighbouring republics. The numbers, the wealth, and the power of the Icelanders, tempting the ambition of the King of Norway, at the fame time that they excited his envy, that Monarch determined to Subdue them by arts and by arms. He careffed the leading men in Iceland j invited them to his Court, and by prefents, offices, and honours, endeavoured to fe-
cure
(  6i )
cure them in his intereft, and attach them to his perfon.
The republican virtue of Iceland, fome* what relaxed by the common effects of commerce, and a commercial fpirit, yielded, but not without a ftruggle, to the machinations and the might of a powerful Monarch.
The whole ifland was divided into two parties : the one under the influence of the Norwegian ; the other jealous of his power. Inteitine divifions were followed, in 1240, by civil wars j and in 1263 the government of Iceland was transferred, by a voluntary furrender, to the Crown of Norway.
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LETTER VII.
Hiftorical Anecdotes of Denmark—The firft Expedition of the Cimbri againfl the Romans—Laplanders, the moft ancient Inhabitants of Sweden and Norway—Odin, the ancient God of the Scandinavians— His remarkable Death—The Origin of the cruel Wars waged among the Goths, or ancient Danes and Swedes themfelves, after Odins Death—Conquefl of England by the Danes.
Zealand, O&ober, 1783.
I am not treading here upon claffic, or upon holy ground, but I am treading up • 011 the tombs of heroes: the very duff of my fhoes has poffibly pointed the fpear of Canute,
While I wander along the fea more, and hear the buttle of men, I think I fee Fro-tho and his followers embarking for Britain : their fpears and bucklers thunder in
my
my ears. And here before me is the palace of Hamlet—" Angels and Minifters of Grace defend me!" Thefe inconfidera-ble iflets gave conquerors to England, who long ruled our anceftors with a rod of iron. The Briton fowed, and did every drudgery, while my lazy Lord Dane, or, as we have it now, lazy Lurdane, ate, drank, and dept.*
The hiifory of Denmark, and of the countries bordering upon the Baltic, is the moft interefting of any that the world prefents. The firft peopling of Scandinavia, as we now underftand that name,
was,
* The very learned Profeflbr Thorkelyn, of the Uni-vcrfity of Copenhagen, an Icelandic Gentleman, vho Is well known and highly cftecmed in Great Britain, and to whom principally I am indebted for the account I have given of Iceland, was fo obliging as to draw up for this publication a lift of words of the fame import in the Norfe or Icelandic, and the language at this day fpoken in the Lowlands of Scotland, and the northern counties of England. A manufcript copy of thofe laws has been left by Dr. Thorkelyn with a literary friend in London, who, itisfaid, has fome thoughts of tranflating and pub-lifhing them, with notes hiftorical and philolbphical, in Englifli.
Was, no doubt, from the Scythian flock fettled in Germany, after they had made an unfuccefsful attempt to obtain abodes in more inviting climates.
About one hundred years before the Chriftian ana, thofe fwarms, crufhing a-gainfl one another, pufhed forwards into Gaul and Italy, to procure more room. Their fuccefs in the former, encouraged the Savages to attack the latter, and Rome It— felf; and had not Marius defeated them, at a time their force was divided, the long glories of immortal Rome would have been cut fhorter than what they were, by the fame race of barbarians. Failing in this expedition, the Scythians remaining in Germany were deterred from attempting another to the fouth. The arrival of a new hod from Tartary, under the famous Odin, however, obliged many to look out to fome other quarter, and they went over into Sweden and Norway, driving the inhabitants, who naturally oppofed their entrance into a country where there was only fufficient maintenance for themfelves, into
Lapland.
Lapland. The cold dreary deferts of Lapland, as well as the fword of the new enemy, would foon thin thofe ancient emigrants from the fame country with their invaders.
Odin eftablifhed his dominion over Norway, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, and part of Germany. Some writers fay, that Odin and his followers were driven out of Scy-thia by Pompey, at a time when the Romans were penetrating to every corner of the eaft and weft, enilaving Greece at one extremity of the world, and Britain at the other; railing up a great monument of human ambition for the Goths to pull down. Their incurfions into Tartary was a fatal error; they ltirred up a neft of hornets, to fling themfelves to death.
Whatever motives or circumftanccs brought Odin into Scandinavia, he foftered the flame of vengeance which he brought with his army, or found among the Scythians in Germany, againft the Roman name: F he
he fwore them, after the example of Ha-milcar, to be eternal foes to the Romans; and from the date of his arrival, to the fecond attack upon the Roman Empire, the Scythians were employed in whetting their lances. Odin, the more to flrike into their minds the dreadful engagement, and to confirm their idea of his divine origin, which had already been propagated; perceiving too his end drawing near, and unwilling to leave the flage like a common mortal; refolved to die in the character of a God. It was only neceffary to die an uncommon death-—his fubjecls were not judges of what was becoming or unbecoming in the actions of a Deity, fo it was connected with fomething daring. He called around him an affembly of the people, and after exhorting them to behave upon every oc-cafion with bravery and refolution, and to revenge every difgrace which had or might happen to them, an inherent principle in all northern nations, he bade them a folemn farewell, telling them, that he was going back again into Scythia, to take his feat among the Gods.
Odin
Odin then drew hisfword, and plunged it into his bofom, continuing to wound himfelf with it, until he fell lifelefs at their feet.
Odin divided his kingdoms among his fons, giving to one Denmark, to a fecond Norway, and to a third Sweden: the lad, the regal feat of Odin, was long efteemed the paramount ftate; and at an annual meeting of the three Kings, his Danifli Majefty held the bridle of the King of Sweden's horfe, and the King of Norway the ffir-rup, while he mounted. The Kings of Denmark found afterwards means to kick the Swedifh Sovereign out of the ftirrup; and this divifion of thefe dominions laid the foundations of the cruel wars long waged, not only between Sweden and Denmark, but betwixt the Princes of each particular nation: Odin's example having been copied by their fathers, in dividing their kingdoms among their fons, The fuccefs of the Northerns againft the Roman Empire fired all Scandinavia with a fpirit of <E 2 emi-
emigration, and we find in particular with relation to Denmark, her Frothos, her Haralds, her Swains, and her Canutes, invading Britain, and fubduing the prior invaders from German v.
This racQ of Danifh Kings in Britain ended in Hardy Canute; and the German line again got porfeiTion of the Crown of England.
The Danes withdrew to their iflands in the Baltic; and their Monarchs were forced to be fatisfied with their native realms j yet as England was not the only fpot where the Danes planted their ftan-dards, we were a fecond time conquered by them, in the perfon of William of Normandy.
LETTER VIII.
Anecdotes of the Kings and Queens of Denmark—of the famous Margareth— of Eric—of his Queen, Philippa, Daughter of Henry IV. of England—Character of the Modern Danes—The Conquejls of tfe Goths retarded the Caufe of Freedom in Europe—Prince Royal of Denmark—Manners and Cuftoms of the Modern Danes.
Zealand, Oft. 1788.
M y Lord Molefworth, and fome other writers who have treated of the Danes, feenv to agree, that they poffefs no great fhare of intellect. If this be the cafe, it proves that wit is not requifite in the com-pofition of a warrior, as no country is more famous than Denmark for producing heroes.
F 3 Odin's
Odin's kingdom of Scandinavia has been, from his time, a nurfery of foldiers, who rehearfed at home, upon each other, what they acted abroad in their various expeditions; and when they could no longer plunder foreign nations, they dif-putcd about the rocks and bogs of the north. They would feem to have pitched upon this country, as it produced iron in abundance, for the manufacture of fpears, bucklers, and fabres.
" Every nation," fays Mr. Wraxall, ft has produced her heroes and her pa-
triots, on whom hiltory delights to " dwell: fome countries are, however, " more fruitful in great and fublime fni-" rits than others : in Denmark they have " had few to grace their annals." This traveller allows that Chriltian IV. and Frederic IV. were fublime fpirits; and if this is granted, I am at a lofs to name a King of Denmark, from Canute to the age of Frederick IV. who was not a fublime fpi-rit: they were in general great If atefmen
and
(   7i )
and conquerors. Their Queens, too, were equally famous for their abilities. Like all other celebrated ftatefmen and warriors, they plunged their country into deep diftrefs. There are few Princes who deferve, or even who would value the compliment paid by Mr. Mallet to Chrif-tian I.—" He was one of thofe who do not " attract the admiration of mankind, yet ■* whom Providence never beftows upon a <£ nation, but as a fignal mark of its fa-" vour."
Of all the Sovereigns of Denmark, Mar-gareth is the moft remarkable; her hiftory, like that of Sterne's hero, begins before her birth. Waldemar III. her father, jealous of his Queen, I Jedwige, confined his confort in the Caflle of Seaborg, This King, in one of his hunting parties, put Up for the night at Seaborg, but without any intention of feeing his Queen. One of the Queen's maids attracted the notice of Waldemar: fhe was defired to repair to the Monarch's bed-chamber, at a filent F 4 hour.
hour. This girl, proud of her conqueft, boafred of it in fecret to her female friend, who, no doubt, piqued at a preference given to another before herfelf, ran to her royal miftrefs, and told the ff ory. Hedwige prevailed with her handmaid to give up the place, and purchafed with gold the embraces of her hufband. Waldemar begot Margareth, in fpite of himfelf, and united, by this night's work, the three kingdoms of Denmark, Sweden, and Norway. This is the only proof of the virtues of a northern talifman, which has as yet appeared. The Danes (how the picture of this Sovereign as of a Deity.
Eric, Margareth's fucceiTor, married Philippa, daughter of Henry IV. of England. This warlike Monarch, Eric, fled from his capital, at a time it was befieged by the Swedes. Philippa took upon herfelf the command of the Danifli garrifon, and conducted the defence of the city in fo brave a manner, that the enemy were obliged to retreat.   At another period, in
the
the abfence of Eric, Philippa fent a fleet againft the Swedes, who had at this time fhook off the yoke of Denmark. She was not fo fortunate in this enterprife, and probably becaufe the fleet was not commanded by this Queen in perfon. Eric, though he could not defend his kingdom, could beat his Queen, and upon his return, revenged the difgrace of his arms, by cruelly uiing her, fo as to occafion her death.
It is to be regretted, that this Princefs did not exercife her courage in bellowing a drubbing upon that daflard: we would have called fuch chaltifement with the hils, with the fame propriety as an ancient drubbing of oratory, her Philippics.
Denmark has been equally unfortunate to the daughters as to the fons of Britons*
In fpeaking of the character of the modern Danes, it is neceffary to confider their ancient and prefent fituation, to prevent
drawing
drawing an unjuft likenefs from a figure of which little more than the fkeleton remains. They were formerly free;— they are now flaves. That nation which firft pulled down Roman tyranny, and fpread the flame of liberty throughout Europe, now behold every other European nation free, or attempting to be free; while they, driven back into their northern provinces, are again deprived of the natural as well as the political fun. That flame was as fuddenly extinguished, as it was raifed. The Goths do not deferve the high compliments paid them by moft writers. They made war upon, and drove before them, free nations, as well as flaves: and perhaps their conquefts retarded the liberties of Europe. They fet the example of lawlefs plunder, of murder, rebellion, and anarchy, rather than of real freedom.— The Goths did not originally plant the love of freedom in the minds of men; and had we received originally, as we did latterly, our laws from the examples of Greece and Rome, we fhould now have
been
been equally free, and without that mixture of Gothic barbarifm, which ftill pervades our cuftoms and ftatutes. Rome had tyrants,  and ftabbed them: other tyrants would have fallen facrifices to liberty,  without the interference of the Goths; and the Roman empire would have naturally fallen in pieces, or into fe-parate kingdoms, in like manner as thofe which had preceded it; and from the lame caufes, tyranny, and an over-grown extent of power, and luxury.
Thefe are the difeafes of which the political bodies of great empires die. Nations who have never known liberty, fit eafy and contented in their chains, until the progrefs of arts and fciences among them infpire feelings, inconfiftent with the dignity of Monarchs, but confident with the dignity of men.   The modern Danes  have  not forgot their former name; and the recoileclion occafions fallen pride, or, as frequently, defpondency, as the various tempers of men may receive
the
the imprefTion. Some writers, therefore, defcribe them as a proud j and others as a fpiritlefs, tame, and abject people.
The revolution which took place in the reign of Frederic III. made no alteration in favour of the Danes; they only tranf-ferred their liberties from the Nobility to the Sovereign. The prefent Prince Royal of Denmark is the patron of Liberty, and from the fteps he has already taken, it may be hoped, that the fubjects will not only experience that temporary relief which a mild reign gives, under the molt defpotic Governments, but that the foundations of good government, and rational freedom, will be laid during his adminiftration. The Danes, in their perfons, do not much differ from other European nations, They are diftinguifliable chiefly by their fair hair. Several of the Scandinavian Mo-narchs have been furnamed by the white-nefs of their locks. The coldnefs of the northern climate, I apprehend, occafions this diftinguifliing mark, fmce we find
that
that the brute creation here change their darker-coloured Summer robes, to white, in Winter.
A drunken Dane, is proverbial; but this maybe applied, with equaljuftice,to all nations of the Danifh ftock, theEnglifh, the Scots, the Norwegians, and Swedes. The ancient God of thofe nations recommended full cups, and his example has been devoutly followed.   When reafon partly refumed her feat, and when this earthly Deity was confidered only as a piece of antiquity, to be admired, not worfhipped, the ingenious northerns found out an apo* logy in their Ikies.   The drefs of the men is after the German fafhion.   The ordinary women, when they are habited in their Sunday cloaths, appear exceedingly auk ward.   Their finery is put off to the beft, or to the worft advantage, with ftarch and beads ; they feem to be inclofed in a coat of mail.
The Danes, like the Norwegians, are fond of dancing to the muficof the violin. Bands
Of
of itinerant German muncians fupply them with other forts of harmonies. The great people, in all countries, have now nearly the fame cuftoms: in fpeaking, therefore, of the manners of foreign nations, I draw my obfervations from among the middling and lower clafles, among whom alone is to be found a national character. The Danes are not the moft cleanly in their perfons and houfes; and this may be owing as much to the ufe of ftoves, as to their poverty. The cold Winter makes them exclude the frefh air, in too great a degree, from their apartments * and their ftoves keep them too warm: and what muft appear very ridiculous toftran-gers, many of them, even during their hot Summer, wear great-coats, &c. Indeed both Swedes and Norwegians have this cuftom, notwithstanding the latter affect, in fome inftances, to hold cold at defiance: probably this other cuftom is by way of bidding an equal defiance to heat. The Danifh ladies are not remarkable for their beauty. It muft be from the Saxon females
males thatthemofl confiderablepart of ou& fair countrywomen inherit their charms. The higher claffes of the Englifh, and the lower ranks of the Scotch women, are, no doubt, of Danifh extraction, if we may judge from a parity of uglinefs.
The Danifh houfes are generally built of timber. Their flat iflands have few rocks, and it is only their cities which have a proportion of brick houfes; each houfe has a kind of piazza before it, where the family often fit in Summer, and the landlord fmokes his pipe. The Norwegians, notwithflanding their country is almofl wholly compofed of rock, ftill perfift in building their houfes of timber, which, they fay, are warmer than thofe of ftone. But this is of fmall moment, feeing that the ftoves will keep either kind equally hot. The frequent deftrucfive fires, in every quarter, mould teach them the impropriety and danger of this obftinacy. Even their Princes are generally burnt out once a year, from one or other of their
palaces,
(  So )
palaces, and whole towns are confumed in the fame blaze. The Danifh Watchmen, as they go their rounds at bed-time, ad-drefs a prayer to the Almighty, to preferve the city from fire, and warn the inhabitants to be careful in extinguishing their candles and lights.
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LETTER IX.
Voyage from Elfineur to Riga—Firft Battle between the Swedes and Danes—Anecdotes of the King of Sweden—Caufes of the National fealoufies fubfjling between Rujfta and Sweden—Bornholm—Earthholm, the Gibraltar of Denmark—Why the Baltic is more dangerous than other Seas— Storm in the Baltic—Sea Scenes—Character of the common Seamen—Coaft of Courland.
Baltic Sea, Oft. 1788.
The fhip in which I came pafTenger to Elfineur left me there, and proceeded upon her voyage to Pruflia: my route is for Riga, in Livonia. I embarked on board a fmall veflel, loaded to the water's edge: there was no other at the Sound, and the feafon approaches when there will be none.
G I once
I once more, as we palled the grounds, beheld the City of Copenhagen.
There were lying in the roads feveral
mips of the line, Danifh and Ruffian__
One of the Ruffian men of war failed from the bay; the Danifh mips faluted her$ their thunder echoed to the coafts of Sweden—a prelude to the bloody fcenes that threaten Scandinavia.
The Danes and Swedes have already had an engagement near Gottenburg: the firft* as allies of Ruflia. The Danes were much fuperior in number, and eafdy obtained the victory.
The King of Sweden is arrived at Gottenburg, where he found every thing in thegreateft confufion, and no preparation made for repelling an army of twelve thoufand foes, at the gates. Guftavus fum-moned the Burghers and Officers in the town around him. He addrelTed them in a very pathetic fpecch, and urged them to
their
their duty. 11 I know," faid the King, " that there are traitors in my fervice: I defire that they may retire. I intreat that none, but fuch as are willing to fave their country, may carry a fword in its defence 1" Troops are daily coming into Gottenburg from every quarter; and within the few days Guflavus has been there, the ftate of matters is amazingly altered. The pre-fence of royalty makes treafon hide its head.
Elfineur is crowded with troops—the. drum and fife found in every corner. It is but lately that the King of Sweden dined with his Danifh Majefty, in Copen-ha gen, en famillL Guftavus, without ceremony, journeyed to this city, arrived at his Ambaffador's houfe, and requefted to be dire&ly introduced at Court. The Am-baffador reprefented the impropriety of the hour, as Chriftian would be then at dinner. Guftavus refolved, neverthelefs, to take pot-luck, and went with the Plenipotentiary to the palace. Chriftian was G 2 cutting
cutting up a chicken, when the AmbarTa-dor's name was announced j and the firft intimation he had of his royal gueft, was-his appearance in his dining-room.
Alas! with what eafe can Sovereigns forget their focial moments, and return again to their falfe dignity, and treacherous policy!
The Princes of the Houfe of Holftein wear the three northern Crowns : they are nearly related to one another, and yet, thefe dearly beloved coufins feldom come together, but by the ears.
Odin's domains are ftill divided among brothers; and thefe brothers ftill divided againft themfelves.
Livonia, Ingria, and Carelia, now Ruffian provinces, are hard of digeftion to the Swedifh Monarch; and the revolt of Sweden is not remembered, without a grudge, by Denmark.
But
(  8S )
But thefe two laft-mentioned kingdoms really cannot afford to be jealous of each other, and were it but for the fake of economy, they mould make hands.
We are now in fight of the Ifland of Mona: the Ifland of Zealand, with her cities and woods, have funk in the ocean behind us. Leaving Mona, whofe white fides give an idea of Albion, we proceed on our voyage.
The coaft of Sweden appears upon our left hand, and the iflands of Denmark are now wholly out of fight. I hear the Baltic roaring a-head of the veflel: we are juft entering this noify fea. The night clofes around us3 we fhall, however, have the moon at ten or eleven o'clock. The weather is moderate, and the winds favourable. The moon trembles over the waves, and paints a beautiful light and fhade. Ships of different nations pafs and repafs ours: we fail very heavily; the Captain's avarice has made him forget the feafon of the year, and overload his bark.
G 3 1 Born-
Bornholm appeared in the morning, upon our right hand: the north point is high land, where I can fee, with the fhip's glafs, the remains of afortrefs. Bornholm is not encumbered with woods: it is plea-fantly variegated with corn fields and farm houfes; and fome fifhing towns adorn the fhores.
The fifhing-boats come off to every vef-fel going to, and coming from the Baltic, fupplying them with fifh. The fimermen generally bring, befules, hens, ducks, and other poultry; taking in return either money or brandy.
In my voyage hither, feveral years ago, the Captain of the fhip threw out a fignal for the fifhers to bring us provilions : a dreadful ftorm of wind, thunder, and lightning, fuddenly came on, while thefifhing-boats were along-fide, difpofing of their commodities. The Danes prayed to be taken on board, and the tackles being fastened to their little galleons, we hoifted
them
them altogether upon deck. Within a few miles of Bornholm is a fmall duller of iflands, called Earthohn, not exceeding one Englifli mile in circumference. Here is an excellent harbour, capable of receiving fhips of the line. Eartholm, a duller, of fortified rocks, is the fortrefs of Bornholm, and, in thofe feas, the Gibraltar of Denmark. Both thefe are detached from the other Danifh. iflands, from fifty to fe-venty miles. Next to Zealand and Funen, Bornholm is the mofl confiderable and fertile.
The porpuffes are playing about our fhip: the feamen portend a hurricane— nor are they often miftaken in their prognostications. Like the Afiatics, who dwell upon the tops of their houfes, and have the heavens and earth always before their eyes, they are better acquainted with the fecrets of Nature, than thofe who are moflly within doors, and under cover.
We are fleering our courfe for the Ifland of Gothland, which the charts inftruct us G 4 to
to make, before we ftand over towards the Gulph of Livonia.   Next day the winds increafed, yet with hazy weather: we could not fee Gothland, and were obliged to take an uncertain departure for Windaw, a town upon the coaft of Courland, which is to ferve as a beacon for our further procedure. Thus, we muft carefully pick our road from one part to another. The Baltic does not admit of a direct courfe to the harbour we are bound for, as many rocks and fhoals, and fmall iflands, lie in the way.    The fhallownefs of this fea creates other dangers.   In the wide Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, the depth of the fea, and the extensive field it rolls upon, occasions a long wave, and of confequence a flow motion, and gradual afcent to the top, be the height ever fo great: on the contrary, a fhallow fea cannot give birth to fuch a wave ; it makes them fhort; and hence a quick or boiling motion, which gives the Baltic waves a more perpendicular fhape, evidently more dangerous than the form of the waves in the Indian oceans.
To
To this circumftance, I mean the form of the waves, next to Providence, I would attribute the prefervation of feveral crews of Britifh mips who have taken to their boats in the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. Sure I am that no open boat could long be prevented from foundering in a fform, in the Baltic. You may have fome idea of this great lake, in a high wind, by looking at the boiling water in a cauldron.
Neither the Captain nor Mate had ever been at Riga, fo I took upon me again to dictate. The fhip was going at a great rate before the hurricane, and we expected to fee the Courland fhore next morning. I advifed to lay the fhip to the wind, both to infure our fafety at fea, and to prevent us from running afhore in the night. A heavy-laden veffel fcudding before a ftorm, and in a rough fhort fea, is a situation dreaded by every feaman. I could hear the men afking one another, if they thought the fhip would make fair weather of it? expreffing thereby their apprehenfions of
foundering.
foundering. The main deck was almoft conftantly under water, fo that only the bows and if ern appeared to fwim, and the raging fea, behind, threatened often to poop the veflel, that feemed as if struggling to preferve herfelf amidft the furious elements ! The Captain did not think proper to lay the fhip to, that is, with her head to the fea and wind, for feveral hours from the time I had defired him. When it was done, fhe lay very fnug and eafy under her reefed main-fail.
Being now under no apprehenfions, I looked about with more coolnefs upon the furrounding fcenes. The watery clouds intercepted the fun's rays, and rolled fwift-ly along the firmament; apparently rifing from the ocean at one fide of the horizon, and plunging again into it at the oppofite point on the other. One folitary veflel lay at fome diftance, tolling like our own upon the floods; the waves dafhing, in a fheet of foam, againft her fides.
(  9i )
The mariners, now that the rudder is made faff to leewaid, and nothing to do, are kindling a fire, to warm their broth; one of them even ventures to hum ct The wandering Sailor !'' but none dare to whif-tle, at fuch a time as this, upon any account.   The boldeft Britifh tar would tremble to hear, at this moment, a fmgJe note of any wind inftrument.   I imagine that their fuperftition, refpecting whittling in a ftorm, arifes from the idea, that to whiffle at the fame time with the winds of heaven, is mocking Providence, who guides the tempefl. Except when immediate danger is before their eyes, the common failor has no fears, becaufe he has little or no knowledge of navigation.   They never know where they are, but when informed by their Officers.   Our crew juft know of themfelves that they are in the Baltic, but not one of them,   except the Matter and Mate, could navigate the fhip to a fingle port of the Baltic. Charts, quadrants, and other directories, are all Greek to them, and to ninety-nine of a hundred among
all
all the ordinary feamen of every nation. It is fortunate, or perhaps unfortunate, that common failors and foldiers are ignorant of the dangers into which they are led. A common feaman looks, without much agitation, upon the frowning fkies; but the leafl dark fpot upon the countenance of his Commander, makes him dread fhip wreck and death.
I never think of laying in ftores for the voyage, preferring to take my chance, and to learn the way that others live. Unluckily, the Captain had not thought of laying in any thing more than I did; and we are almoft ffarving. I am gnawing a bifcuit which is covered with maggots: the little beef we have is rotten—yet the failors are flicingit down with onions, making a hotch-potch of it, fuch as it is. I am fortunately born a traveller; that is, I can live upon bread and fait, though not the beft of their kinds j I can lie upon ftraw, or even upon a deal board j and exift almoft as long as a camel without water: I can car-
ry, too, a heavy burden of difappoint-ments, and look up at heaven without murmuring.
The night draws her curtain, and, notwithstanding the moon fhows her edge above the atmofphere, the gloomy clouds intervene, and involve us in darknefs visible. The raging winds and feas, and the rattling fhrouds, make a dreadful concert—an oratorio of elements ! The moon, in her first quarter, foon left us. I never think of going to bed when there is a lee fhore within fifty miles. I am fitting in the cabin, with a fputtering taper before me. There is no fire nor fire-place, and the weather is exceedingly cold. The^vef-fcl is driving flowly towards Courland.
About five o'clock in the morning, the Mate awaked the Master, and told him, that by the founding he judged the fhip to be very near the coaft. All hands were instantly summoned upon deck • the Tails were loofened fr om the yards, and
we
we flood off fhore, until day-light dif-covered our situation. We then law the coaft about three miles diftant, and we were opposite to a part of it diftinguifhed by the name of the Baker's Ovens, to the louth-weft of Windaw, a fmall fea-port town. We fleered along fhore northwards, for Domefnes, the north point of Cour-land, at the entrance of the Gulph of Livonia. A Dutch veffel, our companion in this voyage, was very ferviceable to us: we followed her through the intricate paf-fage to Domefnes. The Courland fhore here has fome dangerous reefs, and, upon the other hand, the ifland of Ofoel, with its fand-banks: betwixt thefe is the channel to the Bay of Riga.
The day and the wind juft ferved us to reach the entrance of this gulph, the ancient Sinus Livonicus j the two light-houfes directed us to avoid the reef of Domefnes. When the lights are feen in one line together, and appear as a fingle light, it marks that the veffel is abreaft of the
fhoals,
fhoals, arid thereby directs her future courfe. I have taken drawings of thecoalt, from the Baker's Ovens to Domefnes, with the different bearings and diftances. This, fhore is generally flat, and covered with woods. A fand-bank runs along the whole coaft. When we paffed the Baker's Ovens, which are detached hillocks, very remarkable in fo level a country, the fpires of Windaw foon appeared, as if floating in the fea, with the forelts around them.
We are this evening becalmed, nearly oppofite to the light-houfes. The lights are trembling upon the water, and illuminating our flap's fides.   Good night.
LETTER X.
Gulph of Livonia—Of the Conf ruction of the Northern Veffels—The Norwegian Women equally well Jkilledin Sea Affairs with their Hufbands—Dreadful Storm near Riga—-A Shipwreck—Narrative of the diflreffed fituation of the Ship in which the Author was—Arrival at Riga.
Riga, Oft. 1788.
In the morning of Friday laft, we proceeded from Domefnes, on our voyage up the gulph to this harbour, with a gentle breeze, and fine clear weather. The Cour-land fhore, bounding the gulph to the fouth, is, like the coaft we had palled, flat and fandy. The woods, which univerfally hedge thofe countries from the ocean, apparently
patently float upon it. The various openings in the forefts have the appearance of rivers and fmall bays, the low faridy coaft, even at an inconfiderable diftance, being funk beneath the watery horizon. On the fubfiding of the waters, after the flood, we beheld the earth! The birds alighted upon the mafts to reft their feet, tired with their airy expedition from the oppofite fhores. This day was the moft delightful we had enjoyed; the winds favourable, and the bay covered with veffels difplaying the colours of various nations. It is a cuftom at fea, when one feaman recognifes a fhip commanded by his acquaintance, to hoift his colours, which are foon noticed by the other, and the compliment returned.
A number of lugfail-boats paffed us, fleering for the ifland of Ofoel, to which they belonged. Thefe boats are constantly employed in carrying the produce of this ifland to the Riga market. They are all open boats, to render them more convenient for rowing ; and they keep near the H fli ore,
fhore, to prevent their being caught in theo-pen gulph by a ftorm. Sometimes, however, the temerity of the crews makes them venture too far, and the confequences are generally fatal. The Norwegians are the moft ingenious of all people, in the con-ftruction of their boats, which are the beft calculated for fafety in the world, and with which they venture out to fea, for the purpofe of piloting fhips into harbour, in the greater! tempefts. I have feen even the women fleering thefe boats, amidft the raging wind'and fea, with theutmoft com-pofure and lkill. They come off with their hufbands, and having left them on board the fhips for pilots, the wives take charge of the boats, and carry them home. It is true, that many of the Norwegians yearly lofe their lives in their boats, and it is only furprifing that any efcape. They are rewarded accordingly; and receive, in cafes of much danger, from fifty to one and two hundred pounds, for conducting a valuable fhip into port.
The
«
The Norwegian yawls are built long and broad; the bow and the item are of the fame fhape; and their fides, gradually Spreading out, and rifing from the keel to the gunwell, ferve to throw off the violence of the waves: to efcape, rather than to refill them. The fhape of the flern and bows has the fame effect: their breadth, terminating in a gradual point, cuts and throws the fea from the boat. The waves, in rifing behind or before a veffel, always take the direction which the form of her fides, her flern, or bows may give: if thefe turn towards the decks, the waves will, come on board; and on the contrary, the construction before noticed returns them again into the ocean.   But if the flern is flat, or what is termed a fquare flern, it relifls the waves, which, befides the dangerous fhock, occasions them to poop the veffel; particularly if the fquare flern is of a perpendicular fhape, and not Hoping outwards from the lower part; or, in Seamen's language, if it has not a great rake. The nearer the largest mips refembie a H 2 Nor-
Norwegian boat, the fafer they are. They fail the beft, carry the largeft burdens, and upon the fmalleft draught of water.
The fpires of Riga appeared about midday, towering above the fand-banks and woods; but as we approached, they funk behind them ; which gave birth to a very learned difpute between the Captain and me, about the laws of perfpecf ive.— Our fhip was clofe in with the harbour at fix o'clock in the evening, and we made the fignal for the pilots to come off. Another Englifli fhip and the Dutch veffel did the fame. No pilot, however, came to conduct us through the channel off the bar, which lies in the mouth of the river Dwina.
The evening was exceedingly pleafant. The firmament glowed with the beams of the fetting fun. The wind was favourable, yet we dared not to venture over the bar, being entirely ignorant of the proper channel.  Nor did the other fhips attempt
it
it any more than we, but prepared, under a fnug fail, to await the morning. We followed their example, and hoifting our lights, to prevent running foul of each other in the dark, flood off and on with the veflel during the night.
At four o'clock in the morning the wind increafed to a briik gale, accompanied with fnow fhowers. At fix o'clock it blew very hard, and the fnow fhowers thickened. We flood in for the land, to difcover our Situation. The day juft began to break. The feamen were looking out a-head, and about feven o'clock one of them called out, that he faw the fhore, within a quarter of a mile's diffance, upon the weather bow j and the fhower clearing up a little, we faw the waves dafhing againff the beach. We inftantly wore fhip, but we were almoft clofe upon the beach, before our veffel fetched any way. Judging that we were to the northward of the Dwina, the Captain thought proper to fteer for this river, as if he had forgot the bar at its mouth.
H 3 We
We foon perceived the marts of veffels lying in the Dwina, but at the fame time found ourfelves fo near the bar, upon which the fea was rolling in white meets of foam, that, unable to clear it, we were forced to let go both anchors in the open roads, to prevent ffriking. Then it was that we all wiihed that we had run the veffel afhore upon the main-land, where we might have had a chance of faving our lives.
This fad alternative was not now in our power. The ftorm blew directly upon the bar, and the breakers, within half a cable's length, foaming in all their terrors. We faw the Englifli fhip drive afhore, and beating againft it, her fails flying in pieces. The ftorm grew more violent, and at laft to a moft dreadful hurricane. The crew fheltered themfelves in the fteerage j none would venture upon the deck, as the fea was breaking over us, and we expected every moment to founder. I had only courage to look from the door of the
cabin:
cabin: the ocean feemed to collect itfelf into one wave, to roll us into eternity ! The feamen were deaf to the repeated orders of the Captain, to go upon deck. They faid, they had no profpect of faving themfelves, but with the wreck 5 and that were they to go upon deck, they could not efcape being warned overboard.
The waves flying over the bows, rufhed into the fteerage and cabin, threatening to drown us as we fat endeavouring to keep ourfelves from being overturned by the rolling of the fhip 3 the veffel at one in-ftant {landing almoft perpendicular upon her bows, and at the other upon her flern. One of the mariners at laft went to fee if the fhip was driving, at the earneft entreaty of the Captain, who was rendered flupid with the fear of lofing his property, as he had made no infurance.   The failor informed us that the anchors were coming: home j the veffel was driving among the breakers!   Good God! was then fervently exclaimed by every one.   The broad axe H 4 was
was called for, and all hands ran upon deck to affift in cutting the cables, to fet what fail we could, and to run the veflel on fhore wherever it happened. The Maf-ter, with the ablef! of the failors, took charge of the helm.   The fhip, when the cables were cut, fwung round, and we plunged among the raging breakers—a throw for life or death !   We were running under bare poles, the fail which the feamen had unbent, being fhattered in a thoufand pieces. The moment we entered among the breakers, boiling in (beets of white foam, I expected inftant annihilation.   My fears fled : defpair fucceeded : and I beheld the awful fcene with com-pofure.   The fhip, at times, was wholly buried in the fpray: the fhrieks of the younger feamen could juft be heard amidft the fury of the hurricane.   The fhow-fhowers darkened the heavens: we did not know where we were—the tempeft was our only pilot. Every mariner was giving his advice in guiding the fhip, and looking out anxioufly for the flags, and other
marks 3
marks; and I, among the reft, went forward to the bows. The rolling of the (hip toffed me nearly into the fea: I was dallied againft the windlafs, and rendered fpeech-lefs.
I was awaked, as from a dream, with the joyful fhout that our lives were faved! One of the buoys was difcovered, which ihowed that we were failing in the proper channel.    Our activity redoubled with hope, and we foon got into the mouth of the river Dwina, to which we were fortunately oppofite when we drove from our anchors.   The crews of the veffels in the harbour held up their hands, as we paffed them, in admiration of ourefcape: they had feen our fituation, and had given us up for loft.   The very guard-fhip in the river was driven upon the banks, and had hoifted a fignal of diftrefs.
We were obliged, after all, to run our ihip aground, having neither anchors nor cables.   Several boats, from Britifli merchantmen
ehantmen, came to our affiftance, and enabled us to get into fafe moorings.
The cuflom-houfe officers came on board, and, humanely forgetting what at another time would have been their duty, joined our countrymen in thanking God for our deliverance, and left us to take fome repofe.
LETTER XL
Of the River Dwina—Defert Appearance, of the Country around—Defcription of Riga—Anecdotes of the Hiftory of Livonia
-__Aficient Commerce of Riifjia—Origin
of the Ruffian European Commerce---The
Author carries the firft Intelligence to Rufjia of the Hoftilities between the Swedes and Danes— Critical Situation of the
Ruffian Frontiers----Anecdotes of Count
Vietinghoff—Of Count Brown, the Govcr~ nor of Riga—Origin of the Connection of Rufjia with England—The Decline of its Indian Commerce—Correfpondence between the Ruffian and Britifh Sovereigns—Scots Emigrants to Rufjia, after the Murder of Charles I.—Thefe advife the Conqucfl of the Provinces upon the Baltic, from the Swedes—A New Cbara&er of Charles
XIL
XII. of Sweden—Patriotic Plans of the Great Men in Rufjia,
Riga, Oa. 17S8.
I need not inform you that this city is the capital of Livonia. It is fituated upon the river Dwina, about three miles from its mouth.
The banks of the Dwina, and the country upon each fide for ten, and even for twenty miles from the fea, are nothing but fandy plains, covered with barren trees and brufh-wood. At the entrance of the Dwina is the fortrefs of Bulderow, and a fmall town of wooden houfes, chiefly inhabited by work people employed in the merchants yards, the pilots, and inn-keepers. Here lie the large fhips to take in their cargoes; other fmaller craft proceed up the river, to the different wharfs nearer Riga. The valuable articles of hemp, flax, tar, tallow, hides, grain, tobacco, &c. &c. are brought in barks from the various provinces and
kingdoms
kingdoms bordering upon the Dwina* which fweep into the merchants ware-houfes the wealth of this extenfive empire.
There are a number of fhips ftill in the river, whofe bofom, in Summer, is covered with a foreft of malts, cheering the dead profpects around. Thefe are the charms of commerce, the enchantments of industry and trade!
I embarked on board a fmall cart, I have not yet forgot my fea terms, for the metropolis of Livonia. Our way is through a defert: in many places not a fingle tree or bufli is to be feen—a continued waving field of fand. The fpires of Riga direct our courfe, and. as wc approach nearer, a few trees and houfes fhow fome figns of earth and life.
We arrived in the fuburbs, fituated upon the fouth banks of the river, and joined to the city, upon the north banks, by a floating bridge of rafts.   The walls of Riga are
walhed
(   no )
wafted in fome parts by the Dwina, which is its beft defence to the fouth; and towards the land it is ftrongly fortified.
Riga muft be considered as a fortrefs, and a commercial town: in any other view it contains nothing worthy of remark. The firft idea that strikes one upon entering this city, is, that the houfes, as well as the inhabitants, had crowded within the walls for protection. The streets are narrow and dirty; the houfes, a few excepted, are old, and of a mean appearance. The fpires and churches alone retain an air of ancient magnificence.
Livonia, as a part of Scandinavia, was long a bone of contest between the Russians, Swedes, and Danes, who have, in their turn, covered the Baltic fhores with blood, and approved themfelves the genuine fons of Odin. The valuable provinces of Ca-relia, Ingria, Efthonia, and Livonia, bordering upon the Gulph of Finland, are now quietly eftabliihed under the firft of
thofe
C in )
thofe powers, and ferve as wharfs for {hipping the productions of her world of dominions behind them: and in order tofe-cure thefe wharfs, for which Ruffia has to thank the misfortunes of Charles XII. of Sweden, Peter I. built a new capital city at the mouth of the Neva.
The inland commerce of Ruflia with India was now no more. Mofcow and Kiow, the ancient capitals, no longer fparkled with the gold and jewels of Indoffan. Peter looked around him at home to fupply the defect. He faw the materials for commerce, but he had not a fmgle port by which he could lend them to foreign nations. Archangel lay too near the Pole. A very inconsiderable commerce only could have been carried on with a harbour frozen up nine months in the year. In the conteft for the maritime provinces, Riga is celebrated for her brave defence, which procured a very honourable capitulation. Her religion, her muni' , al and commercial laws and privileges w&re fecured. The
in-
inhabitants likewife stipulated, that no Ruffian trader fhould dwell within the city. The only caufe to which I can attribute this requeft, is, that there was actually no room for ft rangers. The Ruffians have therefore built a wooden village in the neighbourhood, which would, no doubt, prove another Trojan horfe, were it not for the reafons juft mentioned.
I had not yet refted my feet upon Ruffian ground, when an Officer .from the Governor waited upon me, to know what intelligence there was from Denmark. 1 informed this gentleman of the ikirmifh near Gottenburg, betwixt the Swedes and Danes, and an exprefs was inftantly fent off to the Court of Peterfburg with the news. Until the naval victory of the Ruffian fleet, commanded by Admiral Greig, over the Swedilh navy, the inhabitants of Riga and Revel, as well as Peterfburg, were apprehenfive of an attack. It was the very beft policy in the Ruffian Government, while thefe cities were defencelefs,
to
to divert the Swedifh forces towards Got-tenburg.
Ruflia certainly did not expect the bold affault from Guftavus: but that hero, luckily for the Ruffian Empire, who had her hands filled in other quarters, either mifmanaged his affairs, or was betrayed by his Officers.   I have no idea that the Swedes could have conquered the Ruffian provinces upon the Baltic; but they might have laid them under contribution: they might have deftroyed one or more of their cities, and among thefe Peterfburg.
The Swedes muft have foon retired before the fuperior force of Ruflia, which, when collected, is equal to repel every invader : yet the difgrace and lofs, even of temporary conqueft, would have been a bitter cup for Ruflia. This narrow efcape will in future caution the Ruffian Government againft leaving their capital and their frontiers without troops to defend them : the anxiety and hurry juft now diftinguifh-I abb
able in drawing an army to the Baltic fhores, is a proof that they are fenfible of the danger they incurred by their former neglect.
Riga is not a large town. I think the inhabitants are calculated at twelve thou-fandi four-fifths of whom are Germans; the remainder, Englifli, Swedes, French, and other nations. The fuburbs contain nearly as many more inhabitants, and their number daily increafes with Ruffians, in fearch of commerce. It is the refort too, in "Winter, of the Livonian Nobles and gentlemen, and at this feafon there is a very genteel and agreeable fociety. Count Vietinghoff has built a handfome theatre and affembly-rooms, at his own expence : he is the patron, too, of the rural arts, and has feveral extenfive farms, for the improvement of agriculture. This Nobleman is defervedly beloved by all, and in high effimation with her Imperial Majef-ty, in whofe Councils he holds an exalted rank.
Count
< m )
Count Brown, an Irifhman, Governor-General of Riga, Revel, and Narva, and of the provinces of Efthonia and Livonia, entered, at a very early period, into the Ruffian fervice, in which he has now turned grey. The Count has undergone every hardfhip of war. Upwards of fifty years ago, in the war with Turkey, he was taken prifoner, and fold among the Turks for a Have. He was redeemed at the interference of the French Ambaffador at the Ottoman Court. Catherine II. at her acceffion to the Throne, found many Britons in both her army and navy: fhe continued to them the favour and diftinclion which they had uniformly received, from the reign of Alexis Michaelowitz, father of Peter the Great, and placed them in the moft important ftations. Ruflia, prior to the reign of Alexis, had little intercourfe with the reft of Europe; indeed it was then, almoft entirely, an Afiatic State. Novogorod, an inland city, and not far diftant from Riga, upon the frontiers of the Mofcovite empire, rofe, from its peculiarly happy fi-I 2 tuation.
tuation, and in fpite of the ignorance of defpotifm, at an early period, to be ranked among the Hanfe-towns. It was the medium, not only of the Ruffian, but of the Indian commerce. Its wealth and great-nefs were proverbial—11 Nought can be greater than God and Novogorod !"
To this mart merchants came in crowds from every corner of Europe. The revolutions, occafioned by the conteflrs of the Ruffian Princes who difputcd for empire, as well as the difcovery of the paffage to India by the Cape of Good Hope, overturned Novogorod; and the conquefl of Carelia, Ingria, and Livonia, in the prefent century, by the Ruffians, completed its deftruclion, by affording more convenient commercial towns at the mouths of the Neva, and the Dwina.
Archangel, lying upon the White Sea, had long before belonged to Ruffia. It was only a mean fifhing village, and, hemmed in by the frozen North Sea, feemed to forbid
*
bid every attempt to hold a commercial intercourfe with foreign nations. The Ruffians, without any knowledge of navigation, never thought of Archangel. In the reign of Elizabeth of England, and of John II. of Ruffia, a fmall fquadron was fitted out by theEnglifh Government, under the command of Commodore Willoughby, to make difcoveries to the north. The Commodore's fhip, with every perfon on board perifhed in thofe inclement latitudes : one only of the fquadron, after combating with dreadful florms, was driven by chance into the Bay of Archangel. The Ruffians confidered thofe new comers as the natives of another world. Intelligence foon reached the Czar John, at Mof-cow, who gave orders to have the Officers conveyed to him, that he might examine in perfon from what part of the earth or ocean they had come.
Captain Chancellor, the Matter, had with him the commiffion of his Sovereign, written in different languages.   The Czar I 3 was
was foonfatisfiedj and, from conventions which paffed between the Czar and the Englifh, by the affiftance of foreigners at Mofcow, the idea of commencing a cor-refpondence directly with England firft ftruck the Ruffian nation. Archangel was yearly, from this date, frequented by Englifh fhips and merchants. John corre-fponded, by letters, with our Sovereigns; and, anxious to encourage this firft dawn of foreign trade, which had never before been carried on directly by the Ruffians, granted uncommon privileges to his new allies.
The foreign merchants or agents at Novogorod, which ftill kept up its head, jealous of this new channel of commerce, did every thing in their power to diffuade the Emperor from fhowing fuch countenance to the Englifh, without effect. Archangel increafed in trade and wealth. The Ruffians, proud of this new opening, crouded to Archangel with their commodities; and the Englifh chofe to bring the Ruffian
produce
produce from this port, however dangerous the navigation, rather than fubmittopay the higher prices put upon them by the factors at Novogorod, and other Hanfe-towns, who monopolized the Ruffian, as well as mofl other trades. Thus, the firft dawn of our connection with RufTia daily fpreading, both nations fenfible of its importance, with equal alertnefs and wil-lingnefs entered into treaties of friendfhip. England found in Ruflia a connection which rapidly bore her up to a fuperiority over the Hanfe-towns, who were not only great in trade, but in naval power.— Ruffia afforded the moft favourite articles to Britons—the materials for rendering their navy formidable to all the world I Alexis, the fucceffor of Ivan, and father of Peter I. continued that friendly inter-courfe begun by Elizabeth and Ivan II. Charles I. correfponded with Alexis: this familiar intercourfe gave rife to a fincere perfonal attachment, fo feldom found a-mong Kings!   After the murder of the unfortunate Charles, a number of Scots 1 4 emi-
emigrated to Ruffia; and hence a number of Scottifh furnames are found among the higher ranks of the Ruffians, at this day. Thefe refugees entered chiefly into the army, and greatly contributed, by their knowledge both of commercial and military affairs, to the aggrandizement of the empire that had afforded them an afylum. It is probable that they gave Alexis the firft idea of afferting his claims to the provinces upon the Baltic.   It is not to be fuppofed, that a nation juft beginning a direct intercourfe with foreigners, could have a juft idea of what fteps were neceflary to increafe their commerce.   Betides, the, difficulty to be furmounted in conquering fuch valuable provinces from the Swedes, poffefling a well-difciplined army, and a ftrong fleet—provinces upon whofe fafe-ty the very exiftence of Sweden depended, could not be furmounted, even in idea, but by fome perfons whofe knowledge of the bleflings of commerce, and the happy fituation of thefe countries, faw that every thing ought to be hazarded by Ruffia,
in
in procuring what alone could render her a maritime and trading power. Ruflia had often before had thefe provinces lying at her mercy ; but a want of this knowledge of commerce, made her indifferent about the dominion over lands, in no way fo fruitful as the vafl regions they already poffefled.
Even Peter the Great had little knowledge of thofe machines which make commerce move, and fupport it. He muff have had this matter clearly explained to him, before he ventured his life and his crown in fo hazardous an undertaking, in which he had not only to conquer the regular forces of an ancient and brave nation, with a mob of peafantry, but to conquer, too, a ftill more formidable barrier, the averfion of favage minds to civilization and trade. Peter led on a rabble, unwilling to fight, againfl an army of Charles XII. of Sweden, the greateft hero that ever lived—againfl: an army fluihed with recent victory over their moft inveterate and
powerful
powerful enemies, the Danes-—an army trembling with contempt at the Ruffian Emperor's attack, and who drove before them 50,000 Mofcovites with 5,000 Swe-difli troops, at the firft onfet! Charles XII. committed one fault, which loft him all his fame, and the beft part of his kingdom. He defpifed his enemies, and ex-pofsd himfelf, upon every occafion, to fight under every difadvantage. He had feveral foes to contend with, whofe armies, feparately, were more numerous than his. He imprudently divided his army, to op-pofe them feparately, and at a great distance from each other. The confequences which happened were naturally to be expected. Charles XII. had he kept his brave Swedes together, would have gained ail the victories he did gain, and without being himfelf at laft defeated : he would have preferved his kingdom, and made pof-terity venerate his name! One falfe ftep ruined him; and the world, which for ever judges by the fuccefs of enterprife, and deem misfortune invariably the effect
of
of folly or of madnefs, have consigned his memory to pity, or to derifion, either of which muft be equally galling to his mighty fhade ! Peter I. built his new capital upon the ruins of Sweden. No wonder that the Swedes continue to behold, with the keeneft anguifh, the decided fu-periority attained by Ruflia, erected upon fuch foundations.
In the year 1769, Count Brown was ordered to procure from England a number of naval officers, for the Ruffian fleet then fitting out for an expedition to the Medi terranean. Among thofe engaged by the Count was Lieutenant Greig, the prefent Admiral in Chief, and Governor of Cronftadt, the Portsmouth of Ruffia. The Count ftill boafts of his celebrated recruit, and records, at his table, the burning of the Turkifti navy, atchieved by this fon in war.   The Count is a very plain man, attentive and ardent in the duties of his office, notwithstanding the advanced period of his life; fond of his countrymen,
in-
( m )
including Englifh and Scots, as well as Irifh, with all of whom he affociates as much as his duties will permit. The Britifh Tars, who are not the mofl punctual in paying that refpect which is rigoroufly demanded by Military Governments, fome-times commit miftakes, and are brought before the Count's tribunal. An Englifli Shipmafter had entered the Dwina in a ftorm, and run his fhip up to Riga, without taking any notice of the Ruffian for-trefs of Bulderow. He was taken before the Governor, to anfwer for this neglect. The Count being difpofed to think it had proceeded from ignorance, afked the Shipmafter, if ever he had been in Riga before ? No. Did you fee nothing in your paffage up the Dwina, which feemed to require a mark of refpect, by lowering your top-fails, and hoifting your flag, as you muft have been accuftomed to do in
paffing the the Sound ?-Don Quixote
miftook an inn for a caftle and Voltaire complained, that many of his vifitors miftook his caftle for an inn.   The honeft
Captain
Captain fell into another blunder, of another kind, and conceived the Imperial for-trefs of Bulderow, with its earthen ramparts, and centry-boxes, to be a church, a church-yard, and tomb-ftones ! The Count, in a violent fit of laughter, was hardly able to pronounce the pardon of the Shipmafter, unlkilled in fcarps and coun-terfcarps. It would appear, that the great men in Ruflia are all farmers : his Excellency Count Brown cultivates his own eftates in Livonia, and he has taken charge, too, of Admiral Greig's, lately prefented to him by her Imperial Majefty, as a reward for the Admiral's gallant conduct in the recent victory over the Swedes.
Catherine II. does not only meafurc out an ell of ribbon to her Knights, but mea-fures out to them, befides, a mile, a league, or even a degree of latitude of acres. The fcale of her bounty is magnificent as that of her empire.
LETTER XII.
Of the Ruffians—Of the Germans, the Beauty of their Women—Mafquerade at Riga— Of the German Mufk—-Cuftom, s and Mariners of the Germans—Of the River Dwina and Harbour of Riga.
Riga, Odober, 1788.
Wherever I travel, my nrft inquiries relate to the cuftoms,.manners, and amufements of the people, by which alone their real characters are to be estimated. Man, driven by necessity, rather than by choice, to divers profefilons of life, cannot be fairly drawn while covered with thofe mafques: but in his amufements he is naked, and a good painter has then no difficulty in delineating his figure.
Accustomed to the manners of the Danes, I do not find fo much novelty here* as I
expected.
expected.   Indeed, this is the third time I have retted my feet upon the great continent of Europe, and taken a peep of the natives.   I do not confider myfelf as yet arrived in Ruffia s  Riga is chiefly inhabited by Germans.   The Ruffians will be quite a new people to me; as much fo as if they were inhabitants of the other world: in drefs, in figure, in language and religion, they entirely differ from all the other European nations.   J can fee a* few of them in the if reets, walking about in their fheep fkins and long beards.   They are ftrangers in this new corner of their empire.   They are only beginning to pitch their tents upon the fhores of the Baltic. Peter I. drove them out of their woods, to breathe the fea air upon the coafts of the Finland and Livonian Gulphs. My ears, which will never bear the German, are at once reconciled to the foftnefs of the Ruffian language.   The fpeaker of this feems to depend much upon his arms, to convey his full meaning.  A Ruffian, while converting, toiles about his hands like a field preacher.
Afo-
A foreigner, in order not to be preju-* diced at firft fight againfl the Mofcovites, muff poffefs a considerable degree of apathy, or at leaft of patience. Their drefs is uncouth, their manners aukward, if not barbarous; and every third perfon you meet is drunk. I will not therefore give way to firft impreflions: have patience with me until I have refided for fome time in Ruflia, and I promife a faithful portrait of the children of Peter, for whofe fake I am difpofed to think the beft of them. Virgil has put me already to the expence of purchasing a fur cloak. His defcription of a Scythian Winter, at the firft fall of fnow, fent me to a furrier's fhop. The Rigans are putting in their double windows, and brufhing up the fkins of the Wolf and Sable. The Germans are generally defcribed as a grave, phlegmatic people; but reverfmg the order of animal nature, they revive in the cold feafon of the year. The Livonian gentry are now in town, and the aflemblage of beauty and elegance is far beyond what I expected to
meet
ineet with here. Perhaps there is no town in Europe of its fize that contains fo many handfome women as Rigcs.   I noticed, however, with regret, that rouge formed a component part of their beauty. The Germans are fond of pomp, and there are few among them who do not live fully to the extent of their incomes.   I have been at the firft mafquerade ball given this Winter,   I went in the morning to procure a ticket j—" but you muit have two," faid the retailer of thefe pleafure permits, t{ or you cannot fup."   To eat, is a principal part of a German, as well as of an Englifli entertainment; fo this but coft me another dollar.   My eagernefs to fee a polite affembly under the Pole, brought me an hour too foon: this, however, gave me an opportunity of furveying the company as they entered—thofe who came to laugh, or to be laughed at.   The great people, as ufual, played at cards; and the jocund and gay danced, and went about diftri-buting their jefts among the fober Domi-nos.   Nuns and wanton Widows, Old K Maids
( ry> )
Maids and Coquettes, Harlequins, Dutch
Skippers, and Ballad Singers.-There
goes a Polander, followed by a Pruffian, a Mofcovite, and an Auff rian, at all of whom he fquints, with a watchful eye. There is a fmart Ruffian Girl, playing at hazard with a couple of Turks. There is one attempting to be a Wit, and another to act the Fool: furely wit and madnefs are nearly allied, for one cannot tell which is which, in thefe two candidates. Here is a Fortune-teller ; a Young Beau, with a long beard—O, fortunate puerl he has got hold of the hand of the prettieft girl in the affembly: I do not well underff and German j he certainly tells her to be virtuous, and that every good thing will follow of courfe. An Old Man totters upon the brink of the grave. Is age—is death a proper fubjecf of ridicule ? Let us jeft with the frailty of mortals, yet fpare mortality itfelf! When the firft fubject is exhaufted, we fhall then permit Yorick's fkull to be held up, for the amufement of the humane company.
From
From trie prevailing difpofition to ridicule folly, one would imagine the world to be advancing, at a great rate, in wifdom and virtue. Never was there an age in which folly and vice were more fharply infpecfed, or more wittily ridiculed. But, alas! while every man carries before him the budget of his neighbour's follies, none has the penetration or the courage to prefent his own. Hence, the dullnefs of mafquerade, as well as the greater part of dramatic performances. What dramatiIts, and what mimics, if they would only caricature their own defects or extravagancies !
The fignal for fupper is thrown out from the gallery—tranfparent letters inform the company, that thofe who have tickets for the firft courfe, may file off to the right. I am feated betwixt Diana and the Venus de Medicis : " Grace was in all their fteps,"—I bad feen them dance— " Heaven in their eyes,"—I had feen them ogling: yes, my dear Sir, Diana almoft killed a ftrong German with a fide glance;
K 2 he
he reeled, and in reeling he trod upon my toes. I forgot to help myfelf, and the Waiter paffed me : the point of my fhoe, juft at that moment, rubbed againfl Ve-nus's flipper. This ferved for the firft difh—and had fuch accidents happened every courfe, I mould have fupped, like Sancho Pancho in his government houfe. The German mufic enchants me. It would be imprudent in the moft rigid Platonift to dance at a German ball, where the eye and the ear are both fo ravifhed, where fuch fweet founds from the orcheftra give new pleafure to the fight of lovely females, and both to thought. There were prefent at this mafquerade fome of the firft ranks; and ftars and ribbons, the mafques of a Court, were fported in different corners of the rooms.
The public affemblies are frequent, and conducted by an afibciation of the gentlemen of Riga. But in every private houfe throughout Germany there is, during the continuance of ice and fnow, a dance, or a concert, three or four times a week.—
Every
Every German, male and female, can perform upon fome mufical instrument or other: and wherever they meet, they in-ftinctively look around them in fearch of a violin, a flute, or a piano forte. The mafter of the feaft, if there be any Granger in his houfe, makes him an offer of his belt violin, and is thunderstruck if the gueft is ignorant of fa\ la, mi. A German is fcl-dom without a fiddle or a pipe in his hand. He haftes from bufy fcenes to his family at home, undreffes, and wrapping himfelf up in his night-cap and nightgown, feizes his pipe, and fits down, like a demi-god, in a cloud of his own raifing. If he is again called out, it is with evident chagrin that he parts with his tobacco and flippers: he is, at this time, uncommonly flow in his motions ; but when he returns to his chamber, his wig and coat are off in a twinkling, and his night-cap returned. With all this, he is very polite, and the night-cap is pulled off to every vifitor. But the vifitor fome-times does not perceive this mark of civility, as the night-cap is frequently hid K 3 in
in the fmoke. An univerfal civility, indeed, efpecially to the ladies, whom no gentleman panes, known or unknown, without ialuting them, prevails throughout the whole of this country.
The Winter approaches faff. The northern firmament is in a ftate of confufion. While I reft in bed, I hear the ftorm, and commiferate the situation of mariners. Several Britifh fhips are yet in the river, taking in cargoes of timber, flax, and hemp, for London and other ports. The river Dwina affords a fafe and noble harbour for fhipping; but, like moft other rivers, it has a dangerous bar at its mouth 5 and its banks, formed entirely of loofe fand, are fupported, near Riga, by a fort of bafket-work of brufh-wbod : there is no proper foundation for building ftone piers—the current would foon undermine every fuch erection. With all thefe inconveniences, Riga is, in commerce and in, wealth, the firft port of the Baltic.
LETTER XIII.
Death of Admiral Greig—Anecdotes of this great man.
Riga, Oft. 1788.
I am the moft unfortunate being exift-ing! This morning an exprefs arrived from Revel, with an account of the death of Admiral Greig. I had heard of his recovery from a late illnefs only two days ago. This fad intelligence has ftruck a damp in every heart. My hopes are now blafted. I will poft to Revel inftantly, to pay the laft duty to the memory of this hero.
The Admiral had undergone great fatigue in expediting the fleet from Cronftadt : he faw every thing done himfelf, and attended often from four in the morn-K 4 ing
ing till ten o'clock at night. He was feized with a putrid fever, on board, foon after the engagement with the Swedes, but upon no account would he quit his ftation, and go on fhore. He has died a willing victim in the fervice of Ruffia. In the firfl battle, many of his Captains deferted him: he did not know whom to truft, and he kept himfelf the command, until death tore him from it. Adieu.
a
LETTER XIV.
Journey along the Coaft of the Gulph of Li-vonia—Defert Appearance of the Country —Manner of Travelling—Marnier oj Crofting the Rivers, which are without Bridges or Boats—Boft-houfes.
Livonia, Nov. 1788.
I left Riga two days ago. After driving over a fandy defert, I arrived in fight of the firft poft-houfe, pleafantly fituated upon the banks of a fmall river. The poftil-lion applied his horn to his mouth, and gave notice to the Poftmafter of our approach to the borders of his dominions: we could not advance further, until the wooden raft was fent for us and our cavalry. We landed fafe, and the Poftmafter and his wife very kindly invited me to dine with them.   The Livonian woods begin
now
now to fpread around, and fkirt the fliores of the gulph, along which the road lies towards Revel. Were the trees in the fo-reff s longer, I mould imagine myfeif in the wilds of South America; but their diminutive flze reminds me of their vicinity to the Artie Circle. I am wandering along the dreary coaft of the Baltic : the night clofes around me, and I hear diftinctly the roaring furge.
The poft-horn again founds a charge, and informs me that my lodgings are at hand. The Poftmafter is furprifed when he hears my intention of flaying until the morning; for it is the cuftom of travellers, in thefe countries, to go on day and night. Alas! I (hall be at Revel too late, let me hafte ever fo much. In the morning I proceeded : the vehicle broke d.own in a lonely part of the wood, where no afTiftance was to be had : I therefore trudged away upon foot, leaving the poftillion to do his beft with the crazy machine. Indeed it is fhameful that better ones are not kept by
the
the Poftmaft ers: the expence of building them cannot be great—they confift entire-* ly of timber, and even the wheels are not bound with iron. The poft-waggon from Riga overtook us. My poftillion defcribed our difafter, and endeavoured to prevail with the stubborn German to take me with him. " No—the poft could not be flopped a moment: the bufinefs of the nation was not to be impeded by the milhaps of vagrant travellers:"—if they had not money, I fuppofe he meant to have added; for no fooner had a filver ruble difplayed its charms in the fun beams, than your humble fervant obtained permiflion to feat himfelf befide a man in office. At the next poft-houfe, of Alt Salis, I procured a machine, a kind of plank refting upon four wheels, called a trofky ; and, having drank my coffee, I continued my journey; the Poftmafter fhaking his head at the temerity of an Anglelander, as the Germans call us, driving through Ruffian woods in November, unattended, and ignorant of the language. Travelling through thefe
countries,
countries, at this feafon, the froft not yet having fet in, is extremely difagreeable. There are no roads thai: defervethe name: —I am dragged about, from poff-houfe to poft-houfe, amidif the dirt, and befpat-tcred by every coach-horfe that palfes me. We had not drove three verfts, when I beheld my friend the Poflman in diftrefs- — his waggon broke down, and his letter-bags Scattered about. He came up to my vehicle, in which, without ceremony, he feated himfelf. Was it the fpread eagle upon his breafb, or the recollection of ii-milar obligations, that gave him this air of confcious worth f Be that as it may, I had the honour of conveying, at my ex-pence, her Imperial Majelty's Officer to the next poft of Sea Salis.
There are no bridges over the rivers in Livonia: the paffengers are carried over on fmall rafts of trees, which are pulled from one fide to the other, by means of a rope fixed to poles ftuck in the banks, I left Sea Salis, and again entered the forefts.
I pro-
I procured a kabitka, a kind of covered waggon, which was no fmall luxury, as it began, towards evening, to rain. We drove along the fnore a part of this ft age: the folemn murmur of thefurge, after the late ' gales—the hoarfe cawing of the rooks—
the lowing of cattle----the echo of the
woods, foothed melancholy and reflection. A Livonian villager tended her cows near the beach; fhe was feated under a thick branching tree, and fung, to cheer the dull hours.
Night draws her curtain. I am hurried through the forefts: the lights, darting from the cottages among the trees, direct our way. The rooks proclaim a ftorm. I lit down, in a forrowful mood, at the poft-houfe, to write to you. There is nothing but a bench in the room, for the weary traveller to reft himfelf; and the inhabitant looks as if he were deprived of it by my arrival: he little knows, that were it a bed of flowers, it could not hufli my foul to fleep.   Thefe mores are almoft
un-
Uninhabitable: here is nothing feen but foreffs or fandy waftes. The accounts given of Livonia by travellers mult be fabulous, or elfethe inland parts muft be of a very different foil from that which I have feen. I have opened my ftores to the people of the houfe—they are all bowing to me ; they offered to me fome brown cruft and milk, in exchange for my brandy, which I have accepted.
LETTER XV.
Journey to and arrival at Pernaw, a forti<« fied Town—Army of Charles XII.—* Siege of Narva and Riga—Trade of Per^ naw—Anecdote of the only Briton who re* fides at Pernaw—The IJvonian Peafantry—The Province of' Efihonia---State of
Cultivation.
Efthonia, Nov. 1782.
I left my humble lodgings early in the morning. The road ftill continues through fands and woods, I find nothing like cultivation from Riga to Pernaw, a few fpots excepted, and hardly worth excepting.— The wretched huts, and even thofe thinly ftrewed, feem but an additional fbelter to beafts. The poft-houfes alone indicate that human beings exift. In all this journey, too, I faw but one wild animal, a
kind
kind of deer, which ftarted from its feat, and bounded into the woodlands. I was happy to find near the fhore a fmall neat dwelling, with offices, painted red : it is poffible even here to live comfortably, and any where, when cleanlinefs is combined with good taff e. A garden fpread itfelf behind, not five acres, yet large enough to fupply the family with greens and other roots. Indeed, five acres of cleared ground would be animmenfe tract, in thofe regions: where the bleating of flocks is as feldom heard as the chirping fcythe.
As we approach Pernaw, the eye is re-frefhed with the fight of an open plain; and the Gulph of Livonia waflies the fur-rounding landfcape.
Pernaw is fituated upon the river of the
fame name, where it enters the gulph. It
is ffrongly fortified.   Charles XII. in the
war with Peter I. landed his army of twenty
thoufand men here, and marched from
Pernaw to Narva with about five thoufand,
with
with which he furprifed and defeated the Ruffian army, confiding of near fifty thoufand troops, but men unfkilled in the art of war. Riga was at the fame time be-fieged by a Polifli army, commanded by the Duke of Courland. Charies had a more violent struggle in raifing this fiege than that of Narva; but he fucceeded in driving the Poles before him.
Charles, flufhed with victory, and dreading no danger from flying enemies, left a very inconfiderable number of forces to protect Livonia, which was Toon overrun with Ruffian troops. The Swedes were defeated in their turn by the Ruffians, and Narva and other places taken from them.
Riga, Pernaw, Revel, and Narva, are at no great distance from each other, and compofe the chief barriers of the Ruffian Empire, upon this fide. Pernaw is a very fmall town, and has not much commerce. The river is very inconfiderable, its courfe being confined to the pro-
L vincc
vince which gives it birth. The exports of Pernaw are confequently limited to the produce of Livonia.
I obferved feveral Dutch fhips, Lubeck-ers and others, in the harbour, loading corn, flax, and timber. Very few Britifh fhips come here; and but one Briton re-fides within the walls of the town.
Mr. Addifon fomewhere obferves, that if an inhabitant of this globe mould meet a fon of earth, in the moon, he would confider him as his countryman, and forget ceremony in the introduction.   I ran directly to the houfe of my friend : it was a new world where there were only two Britons!   This gentleman has been only eleven months from England, and in Pernaw, yet fpeaks the German language fluently, and without having had the affift* ance of a mailer.   I wondered at his proficiency : he faid it was no way ilrange, for he had not converfed with an Englilh-jriari fince he arrived, and was obliged to
talk
talk German ! This will ferve in the place of ten chapters upon education, and the moft expeditious methods of learning foreign languages. I drank my coffee with the Anglo-German, and proceeded upon my journey. My pafs-port was demanded a fecond time, as I left the garrifon. No perfon can take an airing through Ruflia fans ordre de la Imperatrice, in which is in-ferted his name, profeffion, and titles.
The raft which carried meacrofs the river Pernaw was funk under water, by the number of Livonian peafants, and their carts, who crouded upon it. Thefe are a poor looking people, cloathed in the coarfefl manner. I had not before heard the language fpoken: it is not at all pleafing to the ear.
The river Pernaw is the boundary between the Defert and Paradife. When I arrived upon the north fide, I entered a finely cultivated country. I now quitted the fhorcs of the Livonian G ulph, and jour-
neyed through the inland parts of the province of Efthonia, which lead to Revel, fituated upon theoppofite fhore of the Gulph of Finland; Efthonia forming an ifthmus between them. The Poflmafters are all Germans, and very civil, if travellers are fo to them: but as their office is deemed by themfelves of great importance and dignity, they expect a return of good manners. In journeying through Efthonia, the eye is agreeably relieved with alternate landfcapes of cultivation and farm-houfes, of woodlands and rivers. But the country is uniformly level: a dead filence reigns : no roaring cataract from a mountain's brow; the water fleeps in its even channel. This province has evidently been gained from the fea. The month of November is not the feafon to judge of a country by its appearance; efpecially a country bordering the frozen ocean. The land, however, feems deferving of more careful hufbandmeri. Rural cultivators here do not attend to the formation of in-clofares, which might be made of theftones which encumber the ground, in the fame
manner
manner as in certain counties in England, as well as Scotland.'1-" I noticed, that the farmer, in many in ftances, ploughed around the ftones, rather than be at the trouble of removing them.
There are few gentlemen's feats to be feen: and thefe conn* ft of a wooden, or partly brick building of one ftory. The farm-houfes are numerous, and are all mean looking huts of wood.
The roads are, owing to the late rains, very bad. I travel {lowly, yet I am not impatient. I fee every traveller in the fame kind of waggon with mine, dragged by northern ponies through the mire. The peafants arfift their horfes in extricating the wheels of their carriages, every inftant buried in mud, and ill calculated for fuch roads, being made very low. The poft-houfes are fituated at about twelve miles distance from each other, and each has a room appropriated for the reception of tra-L 3 vellers,
* See Captain Newte'sTour, p. 25, juftly celebrated as the moft pleating, as well as philosophical Tour in Britain, yet known.
vellers, gratis. Here, the weary wanderer, in cold weather, places his back againfl: the Hove, lights his pipe, unties his wallet, and refreshes himfelf with bread and cheefe.
Every traveller carries his provifions, from the Prince in gold lace to the Boor in ftraw fboes. The poft-houfes do uot afford much accommodation, as it is not required: few travellers flop, but for horfcs. After a tedious day's journey to a poft-houfe within a few ftages of Revel, crofting rivulets fwelled with the rains, twice overturned in the mire, and other circumstances of fuch voyages, I am at laft under cover. There is only one bed-room and one bed in the houfe: if there were two beds, I fhould chearfully give up the one next the fire to the landlady: the landlord is from home : what is to be done ? Why, I have given a glafs of brandy to the landlady. It is excellent: (he has accepted of another. You fee the treaty is on the carpet- but dont miftake me. A treaty was concluded ; and I had the bed and room to myfelf.
LETTER XVI.
The City of Revel—The Ruffian Fleet-—The magnificent Funeral of Admiral Sir Samuel Greig, Commander in Chief of the Ruffian Navy—Funeral Oration fpoken by Lieut. Colonel Baron Pahlen, tranfatedfrom the German—Particular Account of the Pro-ceftjionfrom the Admiralty to the Cathedral —Epitaph upon Admiral Greig,
Revel Nov. 1788.
T^ms morning ufhered in Winter. I wrapped myfelf in my furs, and continued my route. The country varies little in its appearance, from Pernaw to Revel. In the laft ftage, near the fhore of the Finland Gulph, it is covered with wood. As we pafs through this wood the fpires of the city appear, and, arriving at its extremity, L 4 we
( is* )
we dcfcend into a valley, where part of Revel is built, and part upon a hill, at the head of a fmall bay, or inlet of the gulph. A melancholy gloom hung around the city. The Ruffian fleet lay in the harbour, unrigged, and its great Commander no more.
In a few days after my arrival, the remains of Admiral Greig were laid in ft ate in the Admiralty-houfe, and the public admitted to pay their laft refpects to his memory. I had procured admittance early. My limbs trembled as I entered the hall, which was lined with black. The body was placed upon a bed of ftate, dreffed in Admirals' uniforms, and having a crown of laurel upon its head. The Admiral's ftaff, and fix orders of knighthood conferred upon him by her Imperial Ma-jefly, were fpread upon tabourets, covered with white fattin, and fringed with gold. The Admiral's flags were placed at the head of the bed of ftate, and an efcutcheon, with the titles of the deceafed.   The cof-
fiX
fin, fuperbly decorated, refted upon a fd-ver frame at the fide. The filver urn, containing the bowels of this great man, (food at the foot of the bed, with this fimple infcription, " S. G. Nat. D. 30th Nov. 1735, obit D. 15th Oct. 1788. The wax tapers, from candlesticks of mafly filver, threw a flame of light over this awful magnificence ! Britifh. and Ruffian naval Officers guarded the hall; and the grenadiers, the houfe and paffages leading to it. At the hour appointed for the interment, the Governor of Revel, General Wrangel, attended by all the Officers, naval and military, and by the noblemen and gentlemen of the province, affembled at the Admiralty. Lieutenant-Colonel Baron Pahlen made a fpeech to this auguft affemblage, in honour of the deceafed Admiral, to the following effect:
" RefpeSted Sirs, " Our entry into this world, and our exit, are events we know of certainly > but
1 the
the fpace between life and the grave is of uncertain circumstance and date!
" Happy that man who continually fills this period with brave and worthy actions, and leaves behind him a train of glory,— Mifeiable thofe, even in death, whofe memory can only be traced by a dark cloud of vices 1
<f The afhes of the good and great cannot be too highly revered—they are the relicts of fublime fpirits, which another age may not again produce. Behold that urn! it contains fuch relicts as I defcribe: an age would be too fhort a fpace to record his virtues, for we mult for ever dwell in praife of honour and of worth like his. His noble deeds, his heroifm, adorned with prudence and reflection; his unwearied diligence in the moft important commands entrusted to him by our Imperial Sovereign—equally a proof of the difcernment of our august Monarch, and of the Admiral's merit.   He infpired the many thou-
fands
fands who fought under his banner with the fame fentiments of heroifm ; and feeing him at their head, they knew no fear.
" He taught us to conquer our enemies, and fomething more—he taught us to unite religion with the maxims of war.
" Againfl the armed foes of the realm he fought as a Lion : but no fooner are they defeated, than all his native mildnefs returns.
fC He avoids appearing as a conqueror. His words, as the voice of an Angel, ftill vibrate in my ear. * The chance of war,' laid he to an illuftrious prifoner, ' happens to all: take your fword again—the brave mould never be without one, who nfe it in defence of their country !' He continued watching, to the laft hour, for our intereft and fafety, and could be dragged from his poft but by death. Heaven called him away; and we ltruggled with that Heaven, to keep him on earth !
fpeclcd
fpected Sirs! beloved Brethren and Fellow Soldiers, who have come at this awful moment to join our tears together ! we have fought and conquered with him—— led on to victory, by his conduct, our guiding fear to glory! O ! let his example teach us to wear the laurel with the fame dignity he did himfelf!
" Greatest of Sovereigns, the worthy dead had reaped every earthly fame in your fervice, nor would he have quitted it, but to obtain an eternal crown of glory in heaven!"
At a fignal given, the mips of war in the roads began to fire minute guns, which they continued to do, from the moving to the conclufion of the funeral proceffion. The ftreets, from the Admiralty-houfe, where it commenced, to the Cathedral, were lined with troops : a fquadron of' horfe led the proceffion. The dragoons, with standards lowered, preceded by fo-
lemn
lemn mufic, and at intervals the drums of the army, muffled with black crape, added their warlike bafe. The Imperial grenadiers followed, with arms reverfed. The boys of the public fchools, two and two, dreffed in mourning, came next, finging hymns; then followed the clergy, in their habiliments; a herald; General Lehman, of the Artillery, with his two Marfhals; Military and Naval Officers, who had ferved under Admiral Greig, carrying the tabourets, with the flaff and enfigns of the five orders of his nobility; the three flags, and the facred urn !
The body, on a funeral bier, drawn by fix horfes from the Governor's menage, covered with black cloth, and led by fix bombardiers, and the domeffics of the de-ceafed. Twelve Captains of the Navy, Ruffian and Britifh Officers, among whom were Captains Llphinfton and Trevenen, attended by their cockfwains as porters j Major-General Wrangel, Governor of Revel ;
vel; the Staff and other Officers of the State Major, two and two; the different Officers of Government, according to their rank; the Nobility and principal Citizens; two Marfhals, with their flaves, and a company of infantry, arms and colours lowered, clofed the proceffion. The Cathedral was lighted with innumerable wax candles. The cavalry guarded the entrance. The body was placed before the altar, and near the tomb, within the church; and the orders, flaff, and flags around them. After a funeral oration, by the German Bifhop, the body was depofitcd in the tomb: a fignal gave notice of this, and inflantly the fhips of war, the cannon of the ramparts, and all the troops, fired a triple difcharge, rending the air, and flrik-every heart with awful melancholy ! Silence refumcd her reign. I walked in the cathedral, and contemplated of honour and of fame. I fat down upon the hard bofom of the grave, (and taking out my pencil, I wrote upon the flone an epitaph:
If
If Great and Good Actions Command the Refpect of Mankind, The name of Greig will live for Ever. Kc deferved good Fortune, And he found it under the Banners of Cath. IT. He fcattered the Enemies of Ruflia. Fortunate, even in Death, Like Wolfe, like Epaminondas, He died a Conqueror. CATHERINE Bellowed upon him every Earthly Honour— his own Actions, Immortality
LETTER XVII.
Of the War with Turkey----Unfortunate
Campaign of the Emperor Jofeph II— Reafons why the Ruffians appear ftow in their movements—Naval Campaign in the Baltic between the Ruffians and Swedes, 1788—Naval Engagement between Admiral Greig and the Duke of Sudermania —The Emprefs of Ruffia s Letter to Admiral Greig—The King of Sweaen de-ferted by his Officers—The Interference of Great Britain and Prufjia in his favour.
Revel, Nov. 1788.
Early this year, her Imperial Majefty, on the breaking out of the prefent Turkish war, ordered Admiral Greig to prepare a fleet for the Mediterranean. Nothing was lefs expected by the Admiral, than fuch an expedition; nor had the Ruffian Government
vernment an idea that the Turk would have been fo bold as to be the firft in throwing the gauntlet.   Prince Potemkin and Count Romaintzoff are placed at the head of the Ruffian armies, as Admiral Greig was appointed to the chief command of the fleet.   The Ruffian armies are foon collected: near 150,000 men are already acting in different quarters. But the Turks commenced hoftilities before the Ruffians began to recruit. The Emperor of Germany, as the Ally of Ruffia, has, feveral months ago, begun the campaign,  with 80,000 troops. The Emperor has as yet been unfortunate, confidering the number and difcipline of his forces.   He began the attack without waiting for the affittance of the principal in the difpute: he received the whole brunt of the Turkifh army, which, together with the difeafes among his troops, has reduced them to half of their original number, in a very fhort period.
The Ruffian army feems to be carefully watching an opportunity to repair thefe
misfortunes, and we may foon expect to hear of a decifive engagement; which would have taken place before this time, had not the Turks hitherto avoided a general battle; and this accounts for the apparent inactivity of the Ruffians. This is a new fyftem of Turkifh tactics: they ufed formerly to come on in hundreds of thoufands, and decide at once for victory or death I This alteration may be attributed to the foreign Officers in their fer-vice, who, being unable to difcipline this unruly mob, have at leait gained a point of confequence, in preventing the extreme hazard of committing the whole fortune of the war to a fingle throw. Their repeated attacks in different fmall fquadrons, though frequently repulfed, have the fame effect as rallying, and have at laft penetrated into the very center of the German legions. The Ruffians, therefore, muft not give the Ottomans any opportunity of making fuch Tartarian manoeuvres. They muft be-fiege the Turkifh cities, which will bring the Ottoman armies together, to defend
them.
them. The Mofcovites have learned to ftand the firft charge of their furious enemies, andfuccefs muft attend superior dif-cipline.
Admiral Greig, before he fet fail, had to overcome many difficulties. The whole Ruffian empire did not afford feamen sufficient to man ten fhips of the line j and it was neceffary to have twenty, or more, with attendant frigates, and other veffels. The ufual fburce was fhut up: Britain had forbid her feamen to enter into foreign fervice : Holland followed the example— nor would thefe allied maritime powers fuffer even tranfport fhips to be employed in the fervice of any foreign nation. To add to this difficulty, Spain feemed inclined to oppofe the paffage of the Ruffian fleet into the Mediterranean. France, unable, in a civil fever, to aflift her old friend the Turk, had, perhaps, prevailed with Spain to step forward. To complete the fcene, Sweden, feeing every maritime nation unfavourable to Ruffia, concluded that the M 2 prefent
prefent was a favourable conjuncture for striking a blow at her powerful rival.— The encouragements which invited Sweden to action, at this crifis, were great; and the advantages to be obtained, fub-ftantial. The ancient alliance between Sweden and the Porte might be eafily renewed, and a fubfidy obtained for occa-fioning a diverfion of the arms of Ruffia. Swedifh provinces might be recovered, and the Czarina obliged to defift from interfering in the affairs of Sweden.
Catherine II. was not difmayed by all thefe circumftances united. The peafantry were crouded into the fhips, and the Admiral made the beft distribution among thefe, that he could, of feamen. The Rui-tian fleet, confuting of feventeen fail of the line, departed from Cronftadt in July laft. . The Swedifh fleet, confiftiug of fifteen fail of the line, under the command of the Duke of Sudermania, were cruizing, at the fame time, in the Gulph of Finland. The two fleets foon met each other, with
the
the fame determination, of deciding the fovereignty of the Baltic. The Swedes imagined that their fhips, filled with veteran failors, would be an over-match for the Ruffian fhips, tho' greater in number and in ftrength, manned as they were, only with the peafants. Many of the Ruffian fhips had not one hundred feamen on board, to mix withfeven or eight hundred landfmen. Numbers of their beft failors had been drawn to the Black Sea, for their fleets in thofe remote parts; for Government trufted that they would be able to fupply their place with foreign recruits.
The Duke of Sudermania, defpifing opponents lately the inhabitants of woods, or fcorning to take any advantage, gave battle to the Ruffian Admiral, in a fitu-ation every way favourable to the latter. Admiral Greig had much need of fuch advantage, deferted as he was by five of his fineft fhips. It is a fad, that twelve Ruffian fhips of war fuftained the whole weight of the Swedifh fire: but thefe be-M 3 haved
haved fo nobly, for their country's honour and their own, that, notwithstanding the now decided fuperiortfy of the Swedes in fhips and feamen, both fleets were equally tired of the contest. Unlefs the Royal Duke knew that thefe five fhips were to defert, he acted imprudently by engaging the Ruffians in a calm, when both navies lay as batteries to each other; when little fea-manfhip was required, and when the superiority of his enemy was fo great in the weight of metal, and number of men.— He could not be ignorant that the Ruffians, whether feamen or landfmen, were equal in courage to the Swedes, and that they would fiVht their guns to the laft man. The Duke affects, in his letter to King Guftavus, to fay that he kept the field of battle, and that the Ruffians retired in the night, otherwife he would have renewed the attack in the morning. But how does this accord with his declaration immediately afterwards, that many of his fhips had no powder left, and that they could not be fupplicd ?
The
( m )
The Duke of Sudermania behaved, in this engagement, with much gallantry; and his retiring before a fuperior force, when he had little ammunition left, was no way difhonourable, and furely lefs fool-ifh than it would have been to have pointed his harmlefs cannon at the fmoaking muzzles of the Ruffian guns. Admiral Greig, as foon as he had repaired the damage of his rigging, difpatched a {mall fquadron, under the command of Captain Trevenen, who attacked the Swedifh fleet in harbour, and burnt a fhip of the line, taking and deftroying fome fmaller veffels. Trevenen fweeped the feas of every Swedifh fhip that appeared; and a number of tranfports, conveying provifions and other flores to Finland, were taken.
Admiral Greig wrote her Imperial Ma-jefty an account of this naval fight, and he received the following anfwer from his auguff Sovereign, written with her Ma-jefty's own hand:
M 4 f0
" To the Worthy and Brave, &c. &c»
" We mould be wanting in that grati-" tude and politenefs which ought ever to " difiinguifh Sovereigns, did not we, with " the utmoft fpeed, convey to you, and ** our other brave and gallant Officers and " teamen of our fleet, who have proved " themfelves worthy of their country, our " approbation of your exemplary conducts " and the obligations which we owe you " for your intrepid conduct in your cn-u gagement with our enemy, the fleet of " the Swedifh King. To the conftant ex-i6 ertion of your abilities, and your zeal " for the glory of the common caufe of ourfelves and the whole Ruffian Empire, " may, under God, be attributed the very u iignal victory you have gained; and we « have not the fmallefl doubt, but that u every part of our dominions, where this " event fliall be tranfmitted, will behold it " in its proper point of view.   It is with " grief we read the record of thofe pol-" troons, who, unable to catch fire from
" the
( m )
" the fpirited exertions of their fellow-" warriors, have fo fignalized themfelves " in the annals of treafonabie cowards, " and to whofe cowardice the Swede has " to boatr that any fhip of their fleet ef-** caped, when fo encountered; and the " more particularly, that their High Ad-il miral eicaped, when twice fo nearly in " their power to have taken him.   As we ** affume to ourfelves the fole power to " reward the meritorious, we fhall take " fignal care for the very exemplary pu-" nifhment of the guilty. We beg, there-" fore, that you will yourfelf accept our u heartieft acknowledgment; and we trou-" ble you to communicate the fame to our *' worthy and animated Officers and fea-" men.
" It is our command that the delinquents w mentioned in your official letters, beim-" mediately brought to Cronftadt, to wait " our further difpleafure. We fincerely " wilh you, and all with you, health, and " the moft fignal affiftance of the Al-
u mighty
" mighty God, whofe aid we have in* '* voked, and of whofe afiidance we can-« not doubt, in a caufe fo juft.
" Your fervices will perpetually live in " our remembrance, and the annals of our " country muft convey your names to pof-" terity with reverence and with love. So " faying, we recommend you to God's " keeping ever.
" Done at Peterfburg, the 23d of July, " in the year of Grace 1788.
" Catherine."
This vicloxry has finally proved how-much Sweden can do, Guftavus can prevent the Ruffian fleet from going to the Mediterranean j and he might have done this without fighting, fince the Ruffians would never have fent their fleet away, while a hoftile navy is in the Baltic. The Swedifh Monarch would have been more fuccefsful in Finland, with his army, at a period when Ruflia had no forces on that
fide,
fide, to oppofe him. Fortunately for Ruffia, the difaffection of the Swedifh Officers, prevented Guftavus from attempting any thing; and Ruffia, provident for her fafe-ty, had, by her Allies, the Danes, attacked Sweden in the Province of Gottenburg, thereby making it necelfary for the Swedifh King to leave Finland, and to draw what troops he could confide in1,' to defend his own country. This King, who lately held the haughtieft language to the Court of Peterfburg, when he found his fleet defeated, and his army mutinous, fued for peace, through the mediation of Denmark; and now again, that Britain and Pruffia have interfered to fave him, he has af-fumed fpirit, and an air of threatening.
Ruflia would, no doubt, wifli to get rid of fo troublefome a neighbour, at a time her attention is called towards Turkey, and efpecialiy as Denmark will not be allowed to fulfill her treaties with the Empire. The5 mediating powers might eafily bring about a peace; but perhaps they rather
ther wifli to mediate a balance of power between the contending parties, to prolong the war, and to weaken Ruffia and Aultria to a level with Sweden and Turkey. If the Courts of London and Berlin are fe-rious in wifhing for a general peace, or alarmed for the balance of power in Europe, they fhould directly interfere, and enforce their requeft, the one with her naval, the other with her land forces. If, on the contrary, thefe Courts have blown the flame of war, they will look quietly on, until one or other of the party falls, and then endeavour to difguife the odious character of incendiary, under the cloak of mediation. Our Envoy, Mr. Elliot, at Copenhagen, folemnly averred, that his interference, in the name of his Court and that of Berlin, between the Danes and Swedes, was to prevent the effufion of human blood ! Time will difcover, whether or not this folemn affeveration was a mockery of human mifery.
LETTER XVIII.
Life of Admiral Greig—■Expedition of the Ruffian Fleet to the Mediterranean—Naval Engagement of the Turkifh and Ruffian Fleets—Burning of the Turkifi Fleet . by Admiral Greig—Promoted by the Em-prefs, in confequenfe of this gallant Action. —Further Account of the Naval Campaign 1788.
Revel Nov. 1788.
Admiral Sir Samuel Greig was born at a fmall town in the County of Fife, in North Britain. His father, a very refpec-table character, had a considerable property in fhipping, and was himfelf bred to
the fea : his mother was a daughter of--
Charteris, Efq. of Burntifland,
Young
Young Greig accompanied his father in feveral voyages • but afpiring to a higher command than that of a merchant fhip, he entered into the royal navy, and, like the gallant Blake, rofe from a cabin-boy in a merchant veffel, to fupreme command in Imperial fleets.
When the lad war broke out betwixt the Ruffians and Turks, this hero, then a Lieutenant in his country's fervice, and highly efteemed for every good quality, in-lilted under the banners of Catherine II. who had made a requeft to our Court, to furnifh her Imperial Ma jetty with Officers to conduct the Ruffian fleet, then intended for the Mediterranean. Happily for Mr. Greig, he entered into the fervice of a Princefs with whom merit is the fole recommendation j and with this, no catalogue of anceftry is required.
Lieutenant Greig was, foon after his arrival at Cronftadt, promoted to the command of one of the fhips of Count OrlofFs
fquadron.
fquadron. The Ruffian fleet were in the worft order, and few fhips were in readi-nefs; yet her Imperial Majefty, confiding in the numerous Britifh Officers and mariners on board, ordered what fhips were ready to proceed; and ten fail of the line, with a few frigates and fire-fhips, accordingly failed from Cronftadt, under the command of Count Alexis Orloff, and Admiral Spiridoff. The other fquadron, fitting out under the direction and command of Admiral Elphinfton, were to follow, with all expedition. Thefe two fleets, as foon as they arrived at Portfmouth, were joined by a number of Englifli tranfports, loaded with provifions, and warlike ftores.
Count Orloff's fquadron brought the Turkifh fleet to a general engagement, in the Bay of Tfchefme. The Turks, though much fuperior in force, and lying in the ftrongeft pofition in the Bay, at anchor, and with fprings upon their cables, were forced, after a fevere conflict, to cut, and run for the harbour.   The Ruffian fleet
purfued,
purfued the flying enemy, and Admiral Spiridoff, determined upon ngnalizing himfelf, grappled with the Turkifh Admiral's fhip, both of them the largeft in thofe hoftile fleets. The Turk, fcorning to be behind-hand in gallantry, threw his grappling-irons into the Ruffian fhip, re-folved to conquer or to die. Their fhips were repeatedly in flames, and repeatedly boarded, the one by the other. A dreadful carnage enfued, and fo eager were the crews in the work of death, that the flames were permitted to fpread. The Turkifh fhip blew up, and foon after the Ruffian Vice Admiral's, carrying with them what remained of the feamen into the air! The Ruffian and Turkifh Commanders were, with difficulty, prevailed upon to take to their boats before the explofion took place.
This awful fcene ftruck with aftonifh-ment the furrounding navies. The engagement ceafed: the Turkifh fleet retired into the harbour of Tfchefme; and the Ruffian took poffeffion of the road-ftead, which the other had deferted.
Count
Count Orloff called a Council of War, foconfult of the practicability of destroying the enemy's fleet in the harbour. Many of the Captains gave it as their opinion, that the plan was impoflible to be executed, feeing that the entrance to the harbour was narrow, and defended by ftrong forts and batteries, which could eafdy fink fuch veffcls as muft neceifarily be employed in this fervice. When Captain Greig's opinion was afked, he instantly gave it in favour of the undertaking. " Will you " command the frigates and fire-fhips up-<c on this expedition, and anfwer for its " fuccefs ?" faid the Count. " I will," replied Captain Greig, tc endeavour, to the " utmost of my abilities, to execute your " Excellency's orders." The Count de-fired the Captain to take fuch fhips and fuch Officers with him, as he judged moft proper to aflift him.
Captain Greig, by twelve o'clock the fame night, had every thing in readiness: there were four or five frigates, and as N manv
J
many fire-fliips: with thefe he approached the mouth of the harbour of Tfchefme. Count Orloff, with all his Officers and men, liftened anxioufly to the horrid din that inftantly commenced. The fire-fhips entered the harbour, under cover of the fmoke of the frigates fire, as well as of the enemy's forts and fhips of war. The Turks, little expecting fo fudden an attack, were thrown into the utrnofl confufion. The crews of the fire-fhips, intimidated by the danger of their fituation, could not, without difficulty, be brought to proceed. Their Officers, Britifh and Ruffian, behaved with the greatefl intrepidity, and with their own hands fet fire to the trains. —-The crews hurried into the boats, without minding their Commanders, fome of whom were obliged to jump over-board, and to fwim after them. The Turkifh Navy was foon in flames, and feveral thoufand Turks were confumed with it! The Ruffian frigates completed the enterprise, by levelling the forts, and deftroying the town of Tfchefme with their bombs.
The
The night was illuminated with the blaze; and when the flame fubfided in the morning, nought could be feen, fave the allies of a navy, a fortrefs, and a city! Captain Greig, during the engagement, was flightly wounded, by a mulket ball from the Turkifh fort, which alfo broke one of the points of the crofs of the order of St. George, which he then wore. This morning ufhered in the naval triumph of Ruffia, and crowned our young hero with laurels. Count Orloff fent an exprefs to Peterfburg, by way of Greece, whofe inhabitants were the friends of the Ruffians, and, by the return of this exprefs, Captain Greig received her Imperial Majesty's approbation of his conduct, and a confirmation of the rank of Admiral, which was conferred upon him by Count Orloff, immediately after this celebrated victory.   The peace which took place between the Ruffians and Turks, was haften-ed by this victory; and Admiral Greig continued, from this time, to receive marks of diftinguiflied favour from Catherine IT.
N 2 who
who committed to his care the entire management of the Ruffian Marine, which the Admiral brought to the greateff perfection of which it was capable. He was appointed Governor of Cronftadt, the Portfmouth of Ruffia, and had the feveral orders of knighthood of the empire conferred upon him.
For feveral years paft the Admiral was employed in planning and overfeeing the new fortifications of Cronftadt; the dry and wet docks, for building and repairing fhips of war; the new Admiralty buildings, and other works : and had he lived ten years longer, he would have rendered Cronftadt the fineft harbour and fortrefs in the world.
The King of Sweden, jealous of the in-creafing ftrength, ufefulnefs, and beauty of this rival maritime port, has been actively engaged in erecting new forts at Sweaborg, in the Finland Gulph, the beft of the Swedifh harbours, and capable of
being
being rendered the ftrongeft. The revenues of RufTia muft, however, always be a rival which Guftavus cannot match. The Admiral like wife eftabliihed in Ruffia founderies for making cannon, and all the other machines of war.
*•
I am now arrived at a period which clofed this career of fortune and glory.
Early In the Summer of 1788, Admiral Greig received orders from her Imperial Majcfty to equip a fleet, to ferve again in the Mediterranean. From local circum-ftances, which it is unneceffary to mention here, the Admiral had nearly the whole of his crews to collect from the Ruffian villages ! It was with men who were to be trained after they came on board, that Admiral Greig gave battle to the Swedifh fleet, commanded by his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Sudermania, who oppofed his paffage to the Turkifh coafts, in the month of July of the fame year.
At
At the firft onfet, the Ruffian fleet were fuperior in force to the Swedes: but Admiral Greig was foon deferted by five of his beft fhips. The Admiral, however, undifrnayed, redoubled his efforts, and, beating three of the Swedifh fhips, who attacked him at once, among whom was the Duke of Sudermania's, puflied on, to relieve Captain Elphinfton, whofe fhip was difabled by the fire of the Swediih Vice-Admiral, Wachmiefter. The Swede ftruck his flag to this too powerful opponent; but not until moft of his crew were killed, and his decks covered with blood ! Vice-Admiral Wachmiefter and Captain Elphinfton had, for feveral hours, maintained a dreadful conteft, and the circum-ftance alone of the Ruffian fhip being rendered unmanageable by a fhot which carried away her rudder, gave the advantage to the other. Even in this difabled condition, under the raking fire of the enemy, Captain Elphinfton continued the engagement, until he was relieved by his Admiral.   Both fhips were almoft
Shattered
c m )
mattered to pieces, and their crews nearly all killed. The Swedifh Vice-Admiral, when he came on board Admiral Greig's fhip, delivered to him his fword; which the Ruffian Commander returned, with a juft and elegant compliment, " that a <c brave man, who fought fo nobly for his " country, ought never to be without his " fword." This compliment is commonly paid upon fuch occafions, but it never was more defervedly applied than at prefent.
Admiral Greig delivered to Captain Elphinfton the Swediili fhip's colours, re-ferving to himfelf the Vice-Admiral's flag, which the bold Wachmiefter would never have ft ruck to any other than an Admiral, but would have preferred carrying it with him to the bottom. The Swedifh fleet retired, after a well-fought battle, in which all parties did their utmoft for conqueft and glory. Admiral Greig was wounded in the engagement, and was at the time labouring under a fevere indifpofition, occasioned by his indefatigable exertions in N 4 fitting
fitting out this fquadron. He rofe every morning at four o'clock, and was often feen working with his own hands on board his fhip. He rejected the advice of his Phyiician, who intreated him to go afhore, and to leave the command of the fleet, fince every thing had been obtained which it was poffible to accomplifh this campaign. The Admiral perfifted in profe-cuting his advantage, and wilhed to re-hearfe, upon the flying Swedes, the fcenes at Tfchefme. Captain Trevenen was dif-patched with a finall fquadron, to attack the Swedifh fleet in the harbour of Swea-borg,. where they had taken fhelter; and he fucceeded fo far, as to burn one fhip of the line, and fome leffer veflels, belides taking the victualling tranfports, conveying flores to the enemy.
The Ruffian fleet kept the fea as long as the feafon would permit, the Commander paying no regard to his declining health : but in the month of October he carried his own divifion fafe into Revel,
and
and fent the others to Cronftadt. Quite worn out himfelf, he yielded up his breath in his cabin, dying a willing facrirke to the fervice of a Miftrefs who had fo well deferved whatever he could do, to promote her glory.
Her Imperial Majefty fent exprefs his Excellency Doctor Rogerfon, her own Phyfician, to endeavour to fave her favourite Officer.—It was too late !
Upon hearing of the Admiral's death, her Majefty exclaimed, " Where fliall I " find another Greig!"   His name and character were fo much refpected by her Imperial Majefty, that Admiral Greig had only to fpeak his wifh, in regard to regulations in the naval-fervice, and it was ordered.   He had too much modefty to afk any thing for himfelf.   He has died, in •every refpect, like a Roman: but his au-guft Miftrefs will not forget his children. " They are," her Majefty has faid, " a fa-" cred depofit in my hands."
In
In private life Admiral Greig was not lefs amiable than he was refpect able in his public character: of great fimplicity and modefty of deportment, humane, friendly, charitable; a kind hufband, and a tender father.
It is worthy of remark, that Admiral Greig, when a boy, was of a very timorous difpofition. This would feem to have laid the foundation of that extreme caution which guarded all his words and actions. He was flow in his refolves, but intrepid and quick in executing what he had once refolved.
Some affect to fay, that his abilities mould have been employed in the fervice of his own country. Let it be remembered, that he firft offered his fervices to his country, and that he had permiffion from that country to enter into the Ruffian fleet. When Great Britain fhewed a difpofition, in 1788, inimical to Ruffia, and even a rupture was expected, Admiral
Greig
Greig declared openly, " that he would fooner refign all his commands, and the f* honours with which Ruflia had diftin-" guiflied him, than ever be obliged to " fire a fhot in the face of his country."
When Admiral Greig firft arrived in Ruflia, he was not burthened with riches. A tradefman at Cronftadt behaved to him in a hofpitable manner, and gave him board and lodging at his houfe. Lieutenant Greig, when promoted to a higher rank, not fatisfied with returning the obligations he owed his friend, by recommending him to favours in the way of his profeffion, carried his gratitude further, and married the daughter of his benefactor. The Admiral has left behind him a widow, three young fons, and a daughter. The two eldeft fons are now at Cronftadt, where they lately arrived from Edinburgh, to fee their father, before he lhould fail for the Mediterranean: and they faw him, alas! for the laft time.
The
The Admiral has left orders, that his fons fhall complete their education at. Edinburgh, and then be placed apprentices in merchant velfels, as they had already declared their inclination to become feamen : after their apprenticefhips are expired, they are to fittifh their naval lelfons in the Britifh Navy, and finally enter into the Ruffian fervice. The ekleft has already the rank of Captain-Lieutenant, and the fecond fon that of Lieutenant, in the Ruffian fleet.
Her Imperial Majefty prefented the widow with 40,000 rubles, to purchafe a houfe for herfelf and family, and granted them an annuity equal to the Admiral's pay as Governor of Cronftadt, betides the revenues of a confiderable eftate in the fertile province of Livonia.
LETTER XIX.
Defcription of Revel—Sudden approach of the Ruffian Winter—The Swedish Fleet— A Palace of Peter the Great.
Revel, Nov. 1788.
This town is pleafantly fituated at the head of a fmall bay, near the mouth of the Finland Gulph: it is well fortified, and has a good harbour, capable of containing one-third part of the Ruffian fleet. That quarter of the town upon the hill is called the Citadel, and is feparated from the lower town by a wall.   Here is the Governor's houfe, the houfes of the chief Officers of the Garrifon, and Nobility, and the Cathedral, where the remains of Admiral Greig lie interred. The view from the hill muft be extremely pleaiant in Summer: the country lies before you, as upon a map.
Revel *
Revel is crouded with failors and foldiers. The Winter has, however, proclaimed a truce for nine months, without afking confent of the hot!ile powers: today the harbour is frozen over, and the failors fkating, where yeflerday they were labouring with the oar. Thefe few days have made an entire change in the figure of the people ; they appear altogether a new race, buried, from top to toe, infkins of Sheep, Beavers, and Foxes. The inhabitants of the woods have been plundered, to fupply the trembling creature man with raiment. If he is placed under the warm Perfian fun, he robs the filk-worm; and here he {trips the Bear and Sable of the only coat they are poffeffed of. Natural Hiftorians inform us, that when the Beaver is chafed, he cuts off, with his teeth, the bag of caftor, knowing it is this for which he is purfued. I fufpect he muft likewife tear off his fkin, if he would fa-tisfy the generality of northern hunters.
Old Winter is as defpotic a Sovereign as any in the north.   The Sun lowers his
imperial
imperial ftandard to the hoary Monarch in his native kingdoms. The woods and bufhes are all powdered with fnow—the houfes have taken on their annual covering. The dark fea yet wafhes the fides of the land, and forms a contraft with the fnowy coverings of the plains and forefts. But the waters muft foon fubmit to the tyrant, and the Baltic be bound with icy chains. Such is the northern Winter! The foul fhrinks at the idea, and withdraws to more hofpitable climes, where the genial fun nurfes vegetation all the year !
I delight to vifit every climate, and anxioufly wifh to make the grand tour, that is, to viiit the Artie and Antartic, as far as life is found; to tread upon the line, in African deferts, where the Negro fweats under the cooleft fhade he can find, and the King of Beafts lolls out his parched tongue!
A Ruffian frigate arrived, with intelligence that the Swedifh fleet had left Hel-
finfors, and were then off Revel Bay._
All
( m )
All was confufion. We dreaded a vifit 5 and if the Ruffian fleet, then unrigged, had been attacked, the confequence muft have proved fatal. Thanks to the foft, or difioyal hearts of the Swedifh Officers. Though the harbour be frozen, the roads are ftill open, and fhips of the line might come within a cable's length of the pier! Had Admiral Greig lived, the Ruffian fleet would not be yet unrigged, and expo! ed to an enemy, as if they courted de-ftruction.
The Swedes have fifteen fail of the line at fea, and here lie ten, with their mails ftruck, and their rigging in the holds!— At this particular feafon of the year, when the froft firft lets in, the weather, in regard to winds, is moderate, and as favourable as the Swedes could wifh for a bold undertaking. Revel is miferably neglected : the harbour is capable of being rendered as ftrong as any in Europe, if batteries were erected in proper fituations. The Swedes are paffed, and we are at reft.
I have
I have been to fee a palace of Peter I. at a fmall diftance from this city, at the foot of the only hill, I believe, in the Province of Efthonia, and in the midft of a wood, cut out into avenues, in the old Dutch tafte, which Peter imbibed while he wrought with his adze at Sardam.— The gardens of his other palaces, I am told, are in the fame ftyle.
This manfion has a handfome enough look outwardly; but within, the Architect has ftudied the conveniencieS of a Dutch Galiot —mean and aukward. There is fomething, however, that makes me forget all this, when I walk where Peter walked, and fee the trees, planted by his hand. I imagine his mighty (hade hovers around me: I fee him at every turning.
LETTER XX.
Journey from Revel to Peterjburg in a Sledgi —Travelling Drejs of the Ruffians—Of the Ruffians and Finlanders—A Finland Tavern—Nar va—Tamburgh—Ingria. Winter Scene—Arrival at Peterjburg.
Ingria, Nov. 1788.
I left Revel Thurfday morning, and, for the firfr time, feated myfelf in a fledge. I could not brook the idea of being dragged upon a hurdle to the Ruffian capitals a few miles travelling, however, foon reconciled me, and I found it very agreeable* a fledge is a large oblong bafket, partly covered at top, in the fafhion of an half chaife; this is put upon a frame, turning up in the front, like the bow of a (hip* In this latitude one cannot ufe a chaife
with
with any comfort; befides, it is very heavy with wheels, and requires double the number of horfes. It is wonderful with what expedition the bulkiefl fledge is drawn along the furface of the fnow.
Before travellers fet out, they convey their baggage into the bottom of the fledge, if they journey with one only j above this-large feather-beds are laid, ferving both to warm and to defend the traveller againfl the fudden jolting of the vehicle. Here he lies, covering himfelf with blankets and furs. He is, befides, dreffed in furs; a fur coat or pellice, boots lined with fur, and a cap refembling a muff; nor is this wanting: his hands, cloathed with furred gloves, are likewife thru ft into a muff almoft as large as a French jack-boot. With this, too, he defends his face againfl the cold, which, in driving quickly, is felt to penetrate even this load of fkins, if the wind be oppofite. Now, if all this ware-houfe of garments be required, conceive the condition of an Englifhman, in his O 2 poft-
poft-chaife and thin fur tout, traverfing RuAland ! He would not refemble, but actually be a frozen mummy; and thefroft would preferve the carcafe as well as the richeft balms of Egypt.
We now fee nothing but villages, half buried in fnow. The roads are only dif-tinguifhable by the tracks of fledges, and red painted verft-pofts. It is about three hundred verfts, or two hundred miles from Revel to the capital. The road leads through the provinces of Efthonia and Ingria, bordering upon the Finland Gulph.
At the approach of Winter there are no ftorms; the breeze is gentle as Zephyr. The clouds almoft brufh the tops of the forefts, feeming to reft their loads upon the branches. The Ruffian driver has found a method to difturb the filence of the midnight hour, by hanging a bell a* mong the harnefs: he accompanies this inftrument with his voice.   There is no
dif-
difference in drefs between the Fins and Ruffians. I have found out which is which, by their manner of faluting. The Ruffian driver, when I give him a little drink-money, either bows, or gets down upon his knees, and touches my fhoe or the earth with his head. He has a quicker eye in his head than the Fin. The Fin-lander embraces my knees, and kifles my cloaths, or, if you pleafe, the hem of my garment.   The Fin has a fimple look.
We arrive at different pods, change horfes, and away, like lightning. In the morning we entered a poft-houfe, and had fome coffee, while our bed of furs was adjufted in the fledge. It is made, as any other bed after a night's work. A Ruffian Gentleman is here fmoaking his pipe; his fervant is employed in putting his bed in order. His fledge is far preferable to ours, being neatly built and painted, with windows at the fide, and curtains in the front; he has feveral feather-beds under him, O 3 bolfters
bolftersand pillows without number. This is very unlike the hardy Scythians we have heard of—but fo things are; and the boor is as warmly cloathed as his betters; he rolls himfeif in a fheep's fkin, with the wool inwards: were it outwards, he would look like a fheep upon its hinder legs : but the fharpnefs of a Ruffian eye is not favourable to that difguife. The accommodation is tolerably good from Revel to Narva. However, according to cuftom, we take our provifions along with us, ready drafted; a loaf, a cold tongue, and a bottle of brandy, are the contents of my wallet. It does not appear that the Poftmafters are under any obligations to keep provifions for travellers, for reafons formerly noticed. At one of the pofts, we could not even procure a bit of bread; at the next ftage we had an excellent dinner, and a glafs of equally excellent wine. There are accommodations of another kind to be had in thofe latitudes, at the lower order of taverns, called Cabacks, or Brandy-fhops,   I could not
help
help taking notice of a fign-poft, hung at the corner of a hut, within thirty verfts of Revel, upon the Riga road. The painter had done his beft to infpire other paf-fions, befides that for brandy, in the wayfaring Chriftians. The defign was above criticifm—the execution beneath it. I expected to fee fome living figures to cor-refpond with the ticket. I faw a nymph, aged fifty, bringing water from the well. Had it been another Sarah, I might, perhaps, have refted my camels.
Thefe provinces are chiefly inhabited by Fins; a people as ftupid in their vifage as the Ruffians are lively. They are now fhut up in their cottages: very few are without doors. A dreary fcene is every where prefented to view, with fcarcely the appearance of life.
We arrived at Narva at fix o'clock, iu the dark.   A centinel demanded our paff-ports as we entered the gates, in the name of fome great man, or Prince, or Sove-O 4 reign;
reign ; and in his own name he craved ten copies. You cannot befo unreafona-ble as to expect an account of Narva, feen only at four, or five, or fix o'clock of a Winder's evening. I fee a jumble of houfes, and if the light, or rather the dark, does not deceive me, I fee vacancies where houfes might be built.
We pafs under a kind of triumphal arch upon the other fide of the town. I cannot imagine that this was erected in honour of Charles XII. The Matter of the poft-houfe in the fuburbs advifed us to ft ay all night, as the river Yarr.burgh was not fuf-fkiently frozen to bear carriages with fafety. We had to crofs this river in our firft ftage from hence. My German companion would not confent to remain, and away we drove, our bells jingling, and our coachman finging.
We are now at the banks of the river, twenty verfts from Narva. Our poftillion is gone to procure fome Ruffian fifhermen
for
for our guides. I permitted the fledge and horfes, the Ruffians and German, to go hrif.   The pieces of ice, hurled together in this particular place, were to ferve us for a bridge.   1 kept the caravan in fight, and walked with caution behind. The adventure was not of my planning, fo I allowed the gentlemen to fhow me the road. I heard the water rumbling under me, and upon every fide: this, at one o'clock, in a Winter morning, was no agreeable actuation.   We are fafely over, and I have laid myfelf down to fleep.   The poftillion founds his horn.   I have looked out, and beheld what to me appeared enchantment: the Palace of Saladin, a noble fquare of buildings, and fpacious ftreets.   Am I in Peterfburg ?   Surely it is at a greater dif-tance from Narva, or I have flept a long time.   This city, of whofe exiftence I had never heard, is pleafantly fituated, near the banks of the river of the fame name. The moon, peeping out between two clouds, enables us to view Yam burgh.
The
The Poftmafter is a Ruffian, the firft I liave feen in this office. As we approach Peterfburg, the Poftmafters are, in general, Ruffians; and the Ruffian and Finnifh villages more mixed together.
We are now in Ingria, and, notwith-ftanding that the ground is covered with fnow, I can fee marks of a fruitful country. It is level, and not incumbered with forefts or brufh-wood; and, upon the roads, a number of fledges are loaded with all forts of provifions, going to market. The fight is new and ftrange: every fledge has one fmall horfe, and a reverend driver, cloathed in fkins: a long beard hides one-half of his face, while a fur cap nearly covers the other. We find a fad alteration in our accommodations at the ftages. The traveller, however, finds ftill a warm room? and if he has tea or coffee, bread and cheefe of his own, he may eat and drink; and not otherwife. Every thing is good or bad, by comparifon. I ufed to fhrink' from the entertainment at the German houfes
in
in Livonia, and now, I wifhed for any difh, if it only fmoaked. I cannot eat my cold provifions, in fo cold a climate. Even a fharp air creates no appetite, if you are lying in a fledge among feathers. I am therefore convinced, that walking, and next to it riding, is the belt exercife for the prefervation of health, in every climate.
The Fins dwell in villages. I can fee no detached huts in all the country. Their dwellings are wretched indeed. They con-fift of fmall fir trees, laid upon one another : the roof is covered with deal boards, and it is rare to fee any of them new.— What furprifes me, they build their villages in open fields, when the neighbourhood of a wood might protect them from the fevere weather.
We now draw near to Peterfburg, upon a rifing ground called Ropfhaw, within forty verfts of the Ruffian Metropolis.— The view of the champaign before us is truly romantic.   It is bordered with fo-
refts.
refts. The fhrubs, of unequal height, powdered with fnow, exactly refemble waves; and the thinly-fcattered trees, and brum-wood at the bottom, the mails and hulks of veffels.
We now entered a wood, twenty verfts from Ropiliaw, and foon arrived at the Palace of Strelina, upon the fhore of the Gulph of Finland. The Gulph turns very narrow at Cronftadt, and the Palace of Strelina is feveral verfts nearer Peterfburg, •which we can now diftinguifh—its gilded fpires and domes, and the coaft of Carelia, oppofite to us, forming the north, as In-gria, where we now are, does the fouth fhore of this narrow channel, leading from Cronftadt to the capital.
The ideal fcenery at Ropfhaw was here realifed. I faw the frozen Gulph, with fhips arretted in various parts, as they had been attempting to reach Cronftadt or Peterfburg, at the fetting in of the froft.
Pe-
Peteriburg is eighteen verfts from Sire-lina, where we come upon an elegant road, having marble and granite columns, to mark the verfts. The feats of the Nobility are a farther ornament to this grand avenue into the capital. The fnow is fpangled with temples, Chinefe palaces, and many fuperb buildings, all the way to the gates; and, what is ftill a finer fight, the road is crouded with a brave and in-duftrious peafantry, bringing to that emporium every neceffary of life.
Had one trod the banks of the Neva a hundred years ago, when the foundations of Peteriburg were not laid, and forced his way through the bull-rufhes, which then overfpread them, and were he now to behold this new creation, he would imagine himfelf in a dream, reading the Arabian Night's Entertainments. If Milton had wrote within this period, I fhould have fuppofed that he had borrowed from thofe wonderful improvements the ideas, exprelfed in thefe beautiful lines:
Anon,
Anonj out of the earth, a fabric huge Rofe like an exhalation —————from the arched roof, Pendant by fubtile magic, many a row Of tlarry lamps, and blazing crefcents f
( )
LETTER XXI.
Peterjburg—Journey to Cronftadt, over the frozen Gulph of Finland—Taking of Oc-zakow by the Rufsians—This Fortrefs will be of great Importance to Rufsia.
Peterfburg, Dec. 1788.
This morning, for the firft time, I faw the fun rife from the woods furrounding Peteriburg. Having made the tour of the ftreets, I fat down to write you a defcription of a city—but taking, accidentally, a volume of Fenelon's, I found it done to my hand.
Salentum is yet in its infancy; the walls are not yet built; the Doric, the Corinthian, the Ionic pillars of its temples are juft forming. The found of the hammer, the fon^i of the workmen, re-echo from
the
the neighbouring forefts. The Houfehold Gods of the Salentians are not yet placed in their nitches.
Idomeneus, the great founder of this emporium, too foon entered into quarrels with the adjoining ftates. He laid the foundations of his city upon difputed ground: he appealed, for his right, to the fword; and although he had, perhaps, an equal right with the Prince who oppofed him, Idomeneus preferred the decifion of arms to all others: he preferred fuch quick decifion to the flow forms of equity ana* juftice. He was rather cruel than unjuft; he was rather great than good.
Idomeneus paid the utmoff attention to the arts and fclencesj he recommended them to his fubjecls, after his ufua'l method, *vi et armis. Pie delighted moft in thofe arts which taught to prepare for war —in knowledge which taught him to defy, rather than to appeafe his enemies.— He was not fingular in this tafte—nay,
he
he had learned it in his travels among fa-vage nations, who, indeed, called themfelves polifhed, becaufe their fwords were kept in the beft order for war.
You know it was common for heroes to give themfelves titles drawn from fome fuppofed excellence in their armour. Our Black Prince owed his name to his coat of mail, and others were furnamed Long Swords, and Short Swords, and Daggers. Idomeneus, then, was the Hatchet Prince: this was his fceptre—this was his northern talifman, with which he wrought greater feats of magic, than Odin did, with his Runic characters. Mahomet and Odin called in religion to their aid; and had Idomeneus followed their example, he could have eafily procured divine honours. He was born in a profligate age, when beads and prayer-books were out of fafhion: his fhips were his altars, his Generals and Admirals were his Priefts, and they were not more bloody ones than the Apoftles of the Arabian and Scythian Field Preachers.
P Idomeneus
Idomeneus has left behind him many honourable debts to pay—many difputes to fettle. The neighbouring Princes ff ill feel the edge of his hatchet, and take every opportunity to be revenged.
Peace has not long bleffed thefe plains, fmce Idomeneus left the world ; and it will require the moft prudent councils of Mentor to fleer clear of war, the deftroyer of induftry. The empire is abundantly able to defend itfelf, and even to beat all its enemies j but this will not increafe its agriculture and trade, and it has no oeca-fion for more extent of dominion. Peace, therefore, ought to be the fole object of its Government; and in peace, population, agriculture, and commerce will increafe of themfelves. The Government have only to wind up this huge machine, and keep it clear of dull, for we mutt allow Idomeneus the honour of its conflruction ; and a nation that has fo little to dread from war, in regard to its fafety, and fo much to apprehend in regard to its profperity, can
the more eafily, and ought the more anx- j ioufly to avoid war.
As I wandered in the ftreets, the firfc object that ftruck me, was the equeflrian ftatue of Peter the Great. I cannot de-fcribe the emotions I felt. This ftatue does equal honour to the munificence of Catherine II. and to the artift, M. Falconet.
I faw, at fome diftance, the imperial refidence. I walked in front of it. Perhaps this is Catherine, at the window. " If " it pleafe your Imperial Majefty," faid I to myfelf, c< I am arrived in your capital, *€ by your own order, obtained from your '* Governor of Riga. But I am not come ct as a Spy: I venerate the great founder " of this Government, and his fuccelfors " who walk in his footfteps."
Next day I embarked in a fledge for Cronftadt. Our road lay over the frozen Gulph of Finland. The day was ftormy, and clouds of fnow drifted around us.. I
never felt the feverity of cold until this day: I am fhivering to death, though buried in a fur coat. The fun bowed himfelf under the horizon at three o'clock in the afternoon, and left us to grope our way the beft we could. There are yet fome parts of the gulph not frozen, oc-cafioned by cracks in the ice. Our poftil-lion is very careful, but very cold—he runs with the horfes, to keep himfelf warm.
You have heard of the Glaciers of Savoy : the northern Glacier extends over all the Baltic—over all Scandinavia—and from Scandinavia to the North Pole ! Had Winter feized this gulph in a ftormy day, it would have been a very rough turnpike. Fortunately it was arretted in a calm, and is as fmooth and level as a bowling-green.
It is common for the Fins to go from Finland to Sweden in Winter, acrofs the Bothnian Gulph. Figure to yourfelf the peafants travelling in their fledges, loaded with cheefe, butter, and poultry, where lately a fhip of the line had been toffed in
a hur-
a hurricane ! We are jogging on to Cronftadt by the light of the fnow : the moon cannot attend to every part of the Rullian dominions at once. When the moon fhines, the fnow ferves as a reflector to her lamp, and rivals day. The coachman gave us notice of Cronftadt being at hand. I looked out, and faw fome wooden huts flicking among ice and fnow : there was no appearance of land, which was level with the water, and clad in the fame uniform with the ocean. I faw, too, the Ruffian Navy, firmly bound in the harbour, difmantled of its rigging, and hung round with icicles.
I walked the flreets in a melancholy mood :—1 viewed before me the refidence of its late Governor, now no more ! Tears filled my eyes as I entered—the Admiral's youngeft boy was in the parlour. I placed him upon my knee, and prelfed him to my bofom ! Admiral Greig has left behind him a widow, three young fons, and a daughter. The Emprefs is now the guar-P 3 dian
dian of the children—they have no other capable of the charge, and need them not.
It was a fine morning when I returned to Peterfburg. The fun feemed to ft retch a degree in altitude at mid-day, for the honour of the northern climate. The black woods of Finland fringe the plain of ice on either fide, as we proceed. Cronftadt leffens to the eye as we look behind us, and the fpires of Peterfburg rife ma-jeftic in the eaftern horizon. The fun-beams polifh her gilded turrets, which appear like gold pins hanging from the firmament !
On my arrival at Peterfburg, I heard forrowful tidings of our gracious King. We are all here in agony for our Sovereign, and fervently implore the Almighty to reflore him to health, and to his peo-pie!
The Ruffians have at laft ftruck a blow at Mahomet.   The fortrefs of Oczakow
has
has been taken by ftorm by Prince Po-tempkin's army, A horrid flaughter of the garrifon enfued. It is faid, upwards of feven thoufand were put to the fword! The cannon of the Citadel and Admiralty are announcing the victory to the inhabitants.
Oczakow is now taken for the third time by the Ruffians, and has coft them altogether near 100,000 men! If Ruflia is fo foolifh as again to give it up to the Ottomans, they will deferve to be laughed at. The fortrefs itfelf is of vaft confequence. In regard to the Tartars, it is well fituated to keep them in order, and gives Ruffia more command of the navigation of the River Niefter, and eftablifhes her more firmly in her fettlements upon the Black Sea.
Ruffia, formerly an inland kingdom, and without almoft any knowledge of a fea, before fhe eftablifhed a maritime power, had firft to conquer the lands leading P4 to
to the fea-coaft. Ivan Vafilivitfch I. and II. extended their dominions upon every fide. Towards the north, they found a fea unclaimed by any power, and they had no ftruggle in affuming its fovpeignty. Peter I. not fatisfied with thofe frozen lands and waters, feized upon three feas in finer climates, the Black Sea, the Cafpian, and the Baltic, and feemed to confider them only as additional provinces to his empire.
LETTER XXII.
Winter Drefs, and Diver/ions of fhe Rufsians— Manners and Cuftoms—Rufsian Jubilee— Ancient and Modern Dreffes of the Rufsians.
Peterfburg, Jan. Feb. 1789.
The firft day of the year is a great day at Court: every ftar, garter, and ribbon, is waiting upon her Imperial Majefty. The cannons, drums, and trumpets are all at work: thefe are the drawing-room furniture of an Imperial Palace.
It is now defperately cold weather, no lefs than 25 degrees of Reaumur. I ftiall be frozen to a ftatue. We drive about the ftreets and upon the Neva in fledges, of a different conftrucfion from thofe ufed for travelling; fome refembling a fmall boat, and others the body of an open chaife.
The
The higher ranks in general, however, ufe their coaches, placed upon a fledge frame: and it is merely for an hour's amufement when they drive in fledges.
Every gentleman and lady of the lower order, as long as they have a copic to fpend, lay it out chearfully in hiring the ftreet-fledges, ranged at all the corners, fro bono publico. They look like fo many phaetons by the fpeed of their horfes j only their carriages have no wheels.
The ifhwhoihics, or fledge-drivers, make it a point of honour to pafs every other brother of the reins j they ufe no whips: there is a continual ffruggle for fuch preeminence. Their horfes are excellent; few of them worth lefs than twenty or thirty guineas. The ifhwhofliics, by a peculiar management of the reins, make them anfwer the double purpofe of a whip, and indeed they have but to fpeak to their geldings if they wifh them to run; they cannot flop them fo eafily.   I have
never
pever feen horfes with more fpirit. Peter I. ufed thofe ftreet conveyances, in common with his fubjects; and it frequently happened that he had not money in his pocket to pay the fare: on which occafion he borrowed of fome perfon or other to difcharge it.    Peter's attention to great matters left no time to think of little matters, for which little men will never forgive him. The Ruffian beau attends his miftrefs in a fledge, fitting with her orftand-ing behind.  "The grand field, where they parade, is the Neva.   It is the race ground where the gentlemen difplay their expert-nefs at driving, and the fleetnefs of their nags; a part of the frozen river is railed in for the purpofe. But, in ordinary, there is racing every where, and it is well if one ef-capes being rode down. This gives conftant exercife to the eyes in watching, as well as to the feet in getting clear off.   And this, I prefume, may be the caufe of the quick ftep and look of the Peterburghers. There is a perpetual flight in the ftreets, to preferve legs and arms, and the word pady, or
get
get out of the way, refounds from morning to night. Street travelling is much cheaper here in Winter than in Summer. 1 lie fledges are very numerous: many of the Ruffians in the country, whofe work is put an end to by the froft, come into town with their horfes, and commence hackney fledgernen. When Summer returns, thegentlemen and ladies are turned out of their carriages, and again prefs the pavement with their feet. The wheel carriages are double and triple the expence of the Winter equipage. There are no regulations for the hire; a circumftance which very frequently calls forth the moft violent exertions of oratory. The ifhwho-fhic knows by a glance of your countenance how much to aik—If you are a foreigner, he demands five times his fare; if a Ruffian, he onlv afks double. Calcu-lating upon receiving a half of his demand from each. The hirer makes an offer en pajfant; it is refufed, and he walks away: the ifhwhofhic endeavours to perfuade him to give more, until the gentleman is out
of hearing, when, being convinced that argument is fruitlefs, he drives after him, and receives the paffenger without exchanging another word.   Thofe fledges actually add to the feverity of the Ruffian climate.   The quicknefs of their motion, if the wind is in your face, occafions, befides the increafed coldnefs, a fenfation as if your brow was cut with a razor. Againfl this you muft defend yourfelf as you can by the aid of a muff, which covering the whole of your face,  you fit very comfortably while taking an airing in the dark.    The ladies have the advantage of their male relations: they paint inch thick ; which, if it does not add to their beauty, at leaft prevents them from being froft bitten; I fee the fair damfels gallopping in 20 degrees of Reaumur, without even a bonnet; while the fons of Mars, fwords, bucklers, and all, are rolled up in fable.   Va-nity in our fex has the fame effect as paint in the other.   A Ruffian beau of the firft magnitude defpifes awarmdrefs, as it fpoik his fhapes—he ftruts in filk ftockings, a
hat
hat and cockade; and as often as the cold will permit, he throws his fur cloak afide, to difplay his filk breeches, and fatin veil.
The Police are very attentive to preferve the people from ufing improper freedoms, or expofmg themfelves to this ungracious climate. The theatres and all places of public amufement are fhut, when the cold is feventeen degrees of Reaumur. A cuftom of the Ruffian Nobility and Gentry makes this regulation abfolulely neceffary. Afiatic pomp prevails here, as much as at Ifpahan or Delhi, in defiance of ice and ftorms. They make their attendants wait with their carriages wherever they go, for one, or for ten hours, as it happens, let the cold be ever fo violent. The miferable grins of thofe half frozen wretches, convince me that it is not their choice: the coachmen are fometimes froze to death, upon their boxes. I fhall talk of the hardi-nefs of the natives, when I have feen it. Could I forget for a moment fuch barbarity,
rity, this affected pomp of frozen attendants would be truly laughable. Every gentleman who is entitled by his rank, rather than by his fortune, to be drawn by fix horfes, muff have that number: but no regard is had to quality, fize, or colour ; fo that it is common to fee among the fix horfes, four of different tints. The coachmen have beards, hanging to their girdles, and from every hair depends an icicle: the poftillions are all young boys, blowing their fingers: add to this portrait the fheep-fkin doublet, and a cap of the fame fluff, as black as if the fkins were already prepared for fhoe leather. To contrail this fpectacle, the great man within, and his two or three liverymen behind the chaife, are covered with gold lace. Many of the Nobility go to the other extreme, and the magnificence of their carriages, their horfes, and their fervants, are becoming only of crowned heads.
The Ruffian Jubilee has commenced._
Ice hills are erected upon the Neva, and
all
all the apparatus of a Bartholomew Fair. The river is crowded with the beft, and with the worft company : much is the noifeof men, and dogs, and boys. There muft be at leaft thirty thouland people af-fembled.   Her Imperial Majefty Catherine II. drove amid ft her fubjecls in a fledge, followed by feveral others, with the attending Officers of the Court.   A party of the Huffar Guards efcorted her Majefty. The fame day appeared the Grand Duke and Duchefs,and after them came their children, the young Grand Dukes and Ducheffes. We had with us the whole Imperial Houfe of Ruffia, and they were received with every demonftration of loyalty and affection.   The fevere Winter procured the Neva this honour.   Thefe allemblies do not take place upon the river cnlefs when the ice has attained fuch a thicknefs as may infure fafety. This Winter is uncommonly fevere, and feems remarkable, even to the Ruffians.   There is no riot with all this buff le—not a furly look, nor a fingle blow given or received.   The Ruffians are
fo
fo bufy in drinking, finging, and laughing, that they have no time for quarrelling. The police are watchful; but there does not appear to be much reafon for their vigilance.    The temples of Bacchus and of Venus now open their gates. Thefe are built here of a con If ruction proper for the climate,  having ftoves, folding doors, and double windows. The ftaggering votaries of the former make the air refound with their fongs.    A Ruffian never walks by himfelf when he gets drunk, if he can lay hold of a friend : three or four ftagger in concert, and, very focially knock their heads together. They get drunk in company, and rife and fall as one man.   They do not tipple for hours ; they fwallow as much in two or three minutes as completely does the bu-finefs they came about.   If there be no fophas at hand, they can make a fhift to lie wherever they tumble.    With regard to love, and to drefs, a beard a yard long is  in high eftimation among the fair nymphs of Ruflia.    The Scotch have a merry air beginning with
Q_ The
The Carle he came o'er the craft With his beard new (haven.
Such a preparation in a Ruffian loven would go near to ruin his fuit. The commonality have frill a great veneration for this fringe of human hair, notwithstanding the efforts of their Monarchs to root it out; and it is only thofe depending upon Government, in the Army and Navy, who have yet complied with the cuftom and the with of the Court. Thofe who retain their beards, retain likewife the ancient drefs; the long twaddling coat, either of hVins, or of coarfe cloth lined with fkins, in Winter, and in Summer, of cloth only. About their middle they have a fafh of any colour; but what they moftly affect, is green or yellow. They wear trowfers inftead of breeches and ftockings: their limbs are, befides, wrapped in many folds of woollen fluffs to keep them warm, and above all they wear boots. Their fhirts are fafhioned as women's; their necks expofed to the cold, and as hard and impenetrable,
from
from this practice, as a piece of adamant. Government continue to exert every nerve to compel the fubjects to adopt the German drefs The Clergy alone excepted, none can procure any place, any favour from Court, upon other condition than baniming the Afiatic fheep-fkin robes. The worn-out veteran retires with a pen-fion, upon the exprefs terms of never again alfuming the habit of his fathers. But fo •jealoufly attached are the multitude to former manners, and fo honourable do they elteem them, that a Ruffian dreffed in his beard and gown, tells you by his looks that he has not proftituted the memory of his anceftors.
#
The drefs of the women is the reverfe of the men, both in fafhion and colour. Every part of it being as fhort and tight as decency will allow, and as gaudy as their copies will admit. The drefs of the Ruffian women is exactly the fame with that of the Highland women in Scotland: both have the fhort jacket, the
ffriped
ftriped petticoat, and the tartan plaid; and both too, in general, have a napkin rolled about their head. The Ruffian women are, however, far more elegant and rich in their attire; nor is gold lace wanting to fet off their charms, any more than the art of painting. The young generation are modernizing thefe antic veflments; the ftiff embroidered napkin is fupplanted by one of flowing filk; the jacket and petticoat are of muflin, or other fine ffuffs; and the plaid is exchanged for a filk or fattin cloak, in the cold feafon, lined with fur. The better clafs of females wear velvet boots. The drefs of the higher ranks is after the French and Englifh fafhion : and all muff have a covering of fur fix months of the year. Thus equipped, the prince and the peafant are hurled in their chaifes and fledges through the dreary Scythian Winter.
LETTER XXIII.
Peterjburg contains the moft jlriking ajfem-blage of all Nations—The Rufsian Theatre—The native good Tajle of the Rufsians for Muftic— Specimens of the moft favourite Rufsian and Coffac Tunes.
St. Peteriburg, Feb. 1789.
I feel myfelf here as in another world, the drefs, the manners, and cuftoms of the people are fo different from thofe of other nations in Europe.
Befides the variety of nations which compofe the Ruffian Empire, in my daily walk through the city I meet with Englifli, Danes, French, Swedes, Italians,Spaniards, Portuguefe, Venetians, Poles, Germans, Perfians, and Turks; the latter are arrived here prifoners from Oczakow. This af-0,3 fembly
fembly is a natural mafquerade, and no city upon earth prefents any amufement of this kind in fuch perfection as Peterfburg. In other great cities the variety of ffrangers are not fo diflinguifhable as here, owing to their accommodating themfelves to the drefs of the country in which they refide, or fojourn, in order to prevent the mob from flaring at them.
In Peterfburg there is no need of this compliance: let foreigners be dreffed ever fo oddly, they will find, in every lane, fub-jects of the Ruffian Empire to keep them in countenance. She brings into this ball her various fwarms, from the fnowy mountains of Kamfchatka,, to the fertile plains of the Ukraine—a fpace of 4,000 miles! Siberians, Tongufians, Calmucs, and an en diets train of Tartar nations, the Fins, the Coffacs, &c. Peterfburg is a ftrange city, even to the Ruffians: it in-creafes daily, with new recruits from every corner of the empire.
Ruffia
Ruflia refembles an heir newly come to his eftate. She is only beginning to learn, and feems ftruck at her own importance. This young heir has got his different Maf-ters to attend him; the Englifli Mailer is teaching him the art of navigation and commerce; the French, as ufual, to dance and to drefs; the Italian is drawing plans for his houfe, and teaching him to fing; the German makes him wheel to the right and left, and teaches him all the other arts of war.
The truth is, the Ruffians are going on too fait in affecting, as well as attaining improvement. Foreigners have put too many things into their heads, and, I believe, are picking their pockets, by the idle fchemes with which they amufe them. The Ruffians, in general, look upon foreigners as a kind of fuperior beings, in regard to the arts and fciences. They va^ lue themfelves chiefly upon their valour, and the ltrength of their army and navy.
The
The improvement that firft attracted my attention is the theatre: in the depth of a fix month's Winter, this naturally attracts us from other objects perhaps more valuable. They have French, German, and Ruffian Comedians, and an Italian Opera. The mafquerade is a favourite amufement at this dreary feafon. There are fuch great diftinctions of ranks without doors, that they are happy at times to fink and forget thefe in a mafque. On the contrary, in England we are fo much upon a level, without and within doors, that it would be no amufement or relaxation to repeat the fame fcenes: and this I take to be the reafon that we have few mafque? rades.
The French Actors are highly efteem-ed ; and I affure you the Ruffian Players are no lefs fo, in comedy. The latter have a peculiar turn for works of humour; but in tragedy they cut a poor figure. Tragedy has no charms in their eyes, and I am very much of their way of thinking.
There
There are a fufficient number of melan-? choly fcenes prefented every day in real life: I prefer, with the Mofcovites, to ling and dance while we may.
This turn for humour in the Ruffians is attended with a fault: their comedy too often approaches to farce.   They enjoy, with all their fouls, their native operas, in which are introduced rural fcenery, and manners, and native airs.   Were I not afraid of your calling me Goth, I would tell you I prefer many of the Rufs fongs to the Italian: they are fimple, but ex-quifitely pleafmg—the Ruffians forget every thing elfe while they are lift ening to them. Even among the waggoners, and other ruftics, we (hall fometimes find five or fix, dividing their voices into as many keys, and producing a concert, no way contemptible.   They are felf-taught, and do not underftand what tenor, or bafs, or triple means.   I wonder that the Italians have not pretended that fome David Rizio
had
had vifited this country, feeing they are jealous of their quavers.
The Ruffian inftruments of mufic arc fimple as their fongs: of thefe, the bali-< leka is the favourite of the common people. This is a kind of guittar, with two firings: the performer places it upon his knee, and ftrikes the wire with fuch art, as to move fome correfponding chord in the breaft of every Ruffian within hearing. Several , of their other inflruments referable thofe of the ancient Romans; particularly the pipe of Pan is matched by their whiffle, of nine or ten joints, placed at each others fides, of unequal lengths.
You muff always expect to hear poetry mentioned with mufic. Ruffia has produced two excellent poets, in Lomonofof, and Sumorokof. The fongs of the pea-fants are not deftitute of poetry; and, as they convey the trueff characteriftic of a people, I will hereafter endeavour to give you a tranflation of fome of the beft.—
Poetry,
Poetry, under all its difguifes, has deliver* ed to us more faithful pictures of our an-ceffors than hiffory. This fublime art impels to truth. Truth is the actor in poetry; fiction is the fcenery and drefs.
I fend you with this letter a fpecimen of fome of the moft favourite tunes of the Ruffians and Coffacs, which refound upon every road and through every village in Ruffia. I have omitted the variations by modern Matters.
LETTER XXIV.
Eafter Holidays—Of the River Neva----■
Rufsian Climate—Winter Market at Peterfburg, a great Curiofity-—The Beneftt which the Rufsians derive from the fevere Profs.
St. Peterfburg, March, April, 1789.
The Eafter Holidays have ended, and the Bartholomew gambols are again renewed, but not upon the ice. The Neva is beginning to fhake off his icy chain : it is only when he is a bound flave that people venture to tread upon him.
One of the fquares of the city was fixed upon for the exhibitions. Wooden huts are erected, within which the multitude are entertained with brandy and theatrical amufements. Befides the dramatic fcenes in thofe huts, there were a variety of fways,
upon
upon v/hich the Ruffian lads and lalfes mounted together into the air. 1 faw feveral Turks twinging along with their conquerors. I was happy to fee the poor Mahomedan prifoners in fuch good fpirits. Indeed they are treated here with much humanity. Peter I. had, no doubt, brought the models of thofe entertainments from London or Amfterdam, as the beft to be had at that time. They do not appear to be of Ruffian original. It is furprifmg to view the firft Nobility of the empire, driving in their carriages around the circle which holds the rabble, flaring at one another, and at the mob, for hours together.
The Neva, by the continual froft fince the beginning of November laft, has attained an amazing degree of thicknefs, and it would feem to require a whole Summer to melt it. Were the river to remain fhut Until the ice was melted, there would be no navigation of it before July or Auguft. The current of the river, when the ice turns weak and porous, by the melting of
\
the fnow upon its furface, hurls this body-away, and clears the Neva; and the Neva, in like manner, clears the Lake Ladoga.— Soon after the Neva ice is gone, the rotten ice of the Ladoga is drawn into the river by its current. Nature has cut out a river from moft of the northern lakes, to drain them of their ice. The intenfe heat of the Polar Summer afllfts in this work, and to render them foon navigable, for the pur-pofes of fifhing and tranfporting of merchandize. An intenfe fun might reduce the ice to a perfect honey-comb j but while it floats, it incommodes all navigation, and therefore the rivers are abfolutely neceffary to difperfe it.
It has been afferted, that the northern Winter is the beft feafon for tranfporting merchandize, from the uninterrupted fmoothnefs of the roads, over the frozen land and water. This is fo far true—it accelerates the tranfporting of goods in fledges, from inland parts, to the principal towns fituated near lakes and rivers, to be fent by water, in Summer, to the
great
great marts of trade, as Peteriburg, Archangel, and Riga: but the goods could not be brought to thefe laft ports by land-carriage, from one or two thoufand miles diftance, allowing the roads to be ever fo fmooth, without raifmg the prices to an enormous height. It is by (hipping alone that the Ruffian commerce can be effectually fupported. Peteriburg is fupplied by land-carriage in Winter, with provifions ; not becaufe land-carriage is cheaper or more convenient than carnage by water in Summer, but becaufe the provifions cannot be brought at any other feafon with fafety. A live flock cannot be brought to market, at the fame expence, as when killed and packed at the place where it was fed; and befides the expence, a live flock would require to be fatted at their arrival. When killed, cold weather is the only fea-ibn, in a country where the Summer is fo warm, for tranfporting the carcafles to market, frefli, as well as to fait and convey provifions to the cellars in diftant towns, for Summer's ufe. Wild game, and fifh, in
particular,
particular, could not be conveyed frefli, in any other manner, from a diftanceof many hundred miles, but in a frozen Hate. I need only add, that fiiii here is the principal article of confumption. The frozen market in Peterfburg is a curiofity peculiar to Ruffia. It is not held upon the river, but in one of the great buzars, or fquares, in the fuburbs. Here is a very extenfive picture of dead life—a kind of refurrecf ion of quadrupeds, The peafants who fell the collection to the inhabitants, place the dead animals, ft ripped of their fkins, upon their legs, and in different poftures. Aftranger beholds, too, with wonder, an innumerable variety of the feathered creation—an extenfive collection of zoology:—every tint with which Nature has painted the feathered inhabitants of earth and air, is ftrewed around at the foot of tyrant man ! The hare, cloathed in his Winter robes, is not permitted to wear them long, but is dragged to fwell the various feaft.
This vaft wholefale warehoufe fupplies the other buzars in the city, where beef
.   R is
is cut down, and fold in the fmalleft quantities. The fi(h, from a lize not two inches in length, to the fine falmon and fturgeon of from three to five feet, are heaped in frozen piles. The young fry of the lakes and rivers fhould not be fuffered to be fold in the markets: it will in time exhauft that liberal gift which Providence has be-ftowed upon this nation, in filling her lakes and rivers with every variety of the finny kind.
LETTER XXV.
Of the Tartar Army at Petersburg—Reflections upon War—Of the Propriety of driving the Turks out cf Europe—and giving a Kiiigto Greece from the Defcendants of Peter the Great.
St. Peteriburg, April, 1789.
The Winter ended two weeks before the ice broke up in the river, and the fun's rays had become very warm. This is the moft difagreeable feafon of the year in this province. The melting of the fnow renders the ftreets and roads a perfect mire. The citizens are picking their way through a fea of mud.
This forenoon Summer was proclaimed in the Ikies, while yet the head of the R 2 Gulph
Gulph of Finland, betwixt Peteriburg and Cronftadt, is a field of ice, and for many leagues into the ocean. Loud peals of thunder rent the clouds. Alas! the approach of Summer proclaims likewife the approach of war ! The ftreets are daily crouded with troops, marching to the frontiers of Sweden : the Temple of Janus is opened. I heard from my window the trumpet's/brill found: I went out, and followed the regiments, and mixed with the croud attending them. " May you conquer our enemies, and return victorious and unhurt," faid a poor peafant to a foldier; and while he fpoke, the tears gullied from his eyes. The foldier ftepped afide and kiffed him. The inhabitants look wiflifully at thofe going to fight for them. The foldiers feem pleafed with this mark of tender concern, and grafp their muikets firmer in their hands.
Several thoufand Tartars, Eafkeers, and Kirgees are arrived, and encamped near the city.    They are all horfemen: poor
miferable,
miferable looking creatures, efpccially the Kirgees. They refemble a band of Gypfies, and their encampment keeps up the refemblance. Their tents are of poles covered with rags, and in addition to thefe, a few ruinous huts. Their arms are bows and arrows, and a kind of fpear -} a piece of flick with an iron ipike or nail at the end of it. Their horfes are very fmall, but fpirited animals, continually fighting with one another. The horfe-furniture is a wooden faddle, foftened with rags, a very ufeful article in a Tartar equipage ; a bridle made of a leather thong or bit of rope, of a fimple conitruction. But as the Tartars fpeak to their horfes, they have the lefs occafion for fpurs or bridles. The Tartars obferve no kind of order in their camps, and very little in their march; they have no uniform, though a blueifh colour is the prevailing famion among them. The fathion of their coat differs not much from the Ruffian ; but it is fhorter, and with open ileeves; over which the Officers wear a long robe of fcarlet or R 3 other
other gaudy colour, ornamented with narrow gold lace, or embroidered, more or lefs, according to their dignity. Their caps are of fkins, with long flaps hanging about their necks and ears.   The common men are fo ragged and dirty, that one is at a lofs to defcribe their habiliments.— Their face is fhort, and rather oval, with high cheek bones, aquiline nofes, fmall lively eyes, tawny complexions, and low ftature.   They are very aukward in their gait in walking, but quite at home upon horfe-back ; and they delight in inclining their bodies to one or other fide of the horfe, to fhew how eafily they can recover themfelves.   They frequently praclife fhooting at marks, and feem to have no ideas, but fuch as relate to their horfes and their quivers.   The Officers have pif-tols and fabres, richly ornamented with filver and gold. The armour of their men is very mean—they have all of them fabres, but are ill enough provided with muf-kets, with and without locks.   They are not fane- of fighting with, or againft muf-
ketry:
ketry: what work they do in battle, is done quickly, and loading takes up time: they beat, or are beaten, in a moment. I am at a lofs to guefs what fervice they can be of in Finland, whofe rocks and mountains, fo unlike the Plains of Tartary, will, be another world to thofe tribes, and overturn all their fchemes of war. They may, indeed, butcher the dcfencelefs peafants; but I hope this difgrace will not happen to the Ruffian arms. The ft deleft regard to the laws of war, can alone alleviate its horrors, or adorn its triumphs. No fitu-ation, no provocation, no neceffity will apologize for cruelty. Would a monument, hung round with human heads, like the gates of the Kings of Perfia and Da-homy, who drench every paflion in the blood of their fubjecl flaves, tranfmit a heroe's name with honour to pofterity ?-—. Such might have been eretted for Montcalm at Quebec. The orders, or the per-mifhon of that accomplifhed and intrepid Commander, to the Savage Allies of France, to commit wanton acts of barba-R 4 rity,
rity, tarniihes the crown of glory that otherwife would have been his due: and even the facred memory of Wolfe is fullied by permitting retaliation.
I lament the war of Sweden with Ruffia, and earneff ly pray for a fpeedy termination of it.   With regard to the Turks, the enemies of the Chriftian name, I could wifli to fee them difmiffed from Europe. Notwithstanding the follies and vices of Rome, I cannot patiently behold the murderers of the Greeks and Romans. If Greece and Rome gave us the firft models of Jaws, religion, arts and fciences, is it grateful in us to fuffer, and even to protect, a monument of their difgrace ? Would it be cruel to fend the Ottomans to inhabit the fertile plains of Afia Minor, now de-ferts for want of culture ?   Would it be illiberal to feparate the Greeks and Turks, to prevent thereby the daily torments endured by the defcendants of the Athenians, to abridge the empire, and to fhorten tfae reign of barbarifm?   The ancient connection
neclion of Mofcovy with Greece, through the intermarriages of their Sovereigns, points out the Imperial Houfe of Ruffia as the legal heirs to Turkey in Europe.
I do not conceive that a junction of the Turkifh and Ruffian Empires would be favourable to the general balance of power, or to their individual interefts.   But, perhaps, were the Grecian Crown placed upon the head of a younger branch of the houfe of Peter I. it might preferve the political balance of power, much better than to fuffer the Turks to remain, to be played off at the pleafure of intriguing politicians, again!! the  repofe of Europe. There would be no danger from the family compact of Greece and Ruflia, unlefs it could be proved that the Houfes of Bourbon and of Holff ein have increafed their power by their family connections.   The hiftoryof nations, as well as that of individual families, abundantly proves, that oppofition of intereff, and mutual jealoufies, are able to divide brothers and coufms, juft as eafily as any other neighbours.
There
There cannot happen a more favourable period than the prefent, to give Greece a King, and liberty, and to preferve thofe few reliefs of her former iplendour which ftill remain. To raife Greece again from her allies, and ;;o make her again the feat of learning and of elegance, would do more honour to the powers of Europe, and to humanity, than all their political balance fchemes and intrigues, which as yet have only ferved to make mankind more wretched—their Cabinets have been the nurferies of war, and legal murder.
On this fubject it may be further obferved, that the Tartarian hordes have for ages continued to diiturb Europe, and ftill continue to do fo. The prefent war in Europe is occafioned by difputes of which they are the foundation. After having themfelves ceafed to be a terror to European Powers, bloody ftrife ftill fubfifts relating to thofe vagabonds, altogether degenerated from their former character, which, though fierce, was diftinguifhed by
many
(   »Si )
many noble and manly virtues. It throws unfpeakable difgrace upon Europeans, to permit the Tartars and Saracens of Turkey and xlfrica ftill to dilturb their repofe: and, what adds to this difgrace, Europeans keenly engage in quarrels with one another, while they not only put up with every indignity from infolent Barbarians, but even take a fide againfl thofe European Powers who have the fpirit to attempt their extirpation.
/
LETTER XXVI.
Former State of Ruffia—-Of the Tartar Na^ tions—-Of the Conquefi of China by the Tartars.
St. Peterfburg, April, 1789.
The Ruffians, not many hundred years ago, were in the fame ftate as the Tartars now are; and even' after they fettled in the country of Mofcovy, they continued under bondage to the Tartar nations, who furrounded them upon all fides. The Czar Ivan Vafilivitfch I. releafcd his people from this degrading fituation, and his fucceffor, Ivan Vafilivitfch II. effectually rooted out thofe freebooters, and overawed them in their turn. From this period, the Ruffian Monarchs extended their conquefts, and, by a rapid progrefs, the
vaft
vaft regions from the banks of the Nieper to Kamfchatka, which views, from its mores, the American mountains, a fpace of four thoufand miles, acknowledged their fceptre. The moit northerly parts of Siberia are inhabited by Fins, and Tartar tribes, in the lbweft ft ate of civilization; the fouthern provinces border upon Tar-tary, properly fo called.
There are many of the Tartars ftill independent, if we call by that name the liberty of running from the protection of one Sovereign to that of another. The Ruffian Government give them every encouragement to fettle in Siberia, and in the Kingdoms of Cafan and Aftrakan j and the Tartars begin to fhew a difpofition to* become hufbandmen. The Kalmue hordes are the moft obftinate: they dwell near the Wolga, and maintain themfelves by fifhing, and with their flocks and herds. They refute the name of Tartars, becaufe the word fignifi.es a vagrant.
The
The Kalmucs are efteemed by the other tribes as a fuperior clafs; the Kirgees are much inferior in character, as well as in wealth : yet I could not help looking with veneration upon our Scythian fathers, though in rags. The Kalmucs deny them. The Kirgees, Bafkeers, and other Tartars, deny the Fins—the Fins deteft the Lap* landers; and the Laplanders, buried in their earthen caves, efteem themfelves of divine origin. This is the beft ridicule of family pride and connections that I have met with.
The Fins are quiet and induftrious, and confequently fuperior, in fome refpects, to all the others. *' But," fay the Kalmucs, " they are farmers—they till the ground « —they are clowns: we are huntfmen " and warriors, the immediate defcendants " of Zinghis Khan and Tamerlane, con-" querors of India and China 1"
The Tartars are at this day divided into four grand divifions: the firft inhabit their
native
native plains of Tartary,  under their Khans j the fecond are mixed with Chi-nefe, under the fame government of laws; the third having fubmitted to the Government of Ruflia, or to its protection, dwell in Siberia, and upon the banks of the Wol-ga; the fourth acknowledge the Sultan of Conftantinople for their Chief, and pitch their tents in Little Tartary; the laft of thefe divifions arrived, under the command of a defendant of Zinghis Khan, at the time the Crimea was in the poffeffion of the Genoefe, whom they drove out, by the affiftance of the Turks: hence the alliance between thefe two hordes. The Turks confider the Tartars as flaves j and their Princes of the Houfe of Ghyri, their firft Leader, receive an annual fubfidy from the Porte, upon condition of appearing in the field with an army, in the Turkifh wars.   The Turks depofe their Princes at pleafure, but they appoint a Khan always from among the relations of the Ghvrian race.
Thofe
Thofe people have partly changed Masters fince the conqueff of the Crimea by the Ruffians: but they are ftill attached to their old Matters, from habit and li-milarity of religion ; and many have de-fatted to the Turkifh provinces adjacent.
Emigrations from the mother country, at various periods, filled the country joining. The new fettlers, following the example of the Crimeans, adopted in part the Mahomedan Religion, and became Allies of the Porte. The Moguls, or Kalmucs, fettling upon the ealf of the Wolga, were entirely feparated from their brethren in Little Tartary. The Czars of Mofcovy permitted them to live in their o /, iv way, only upon condition of remaining quiet, and paying a trifling tax, in their Jamb-fkins, which are famous, and univerfally worn in Ruflia. As the Kalmucs, notwithffanding thofe gentle terms, were much addicted to lawlefs diforder, and plunder, Czars were more than once obliged to curb their infolence and depredations.
dations. They could claim a fuperiority to the Crim Tartars but in one point— their fteady adherence to the religion of the Lama : both purfued the vocations of hunting and robbing. The Crimeans were dirtinguiihed by the name of Mahomedan Tartars, and confidered as Apoftates.
Mountainous countries are faid to be moft favourable  to   liberty $   and yet the Tartars, in their wide plains, boaft of freedom ; their emigrations,  to feek the protection of foreign Monarchs, however, proves that they have got Tyrants at home,  who, no doubt, contend in arms with one another: in confequence of which,   the defeated are happy to find an afylum in other countries. The freedom of unpolifhed nations, indeed, confifts merely in lawlefs plunder, and difputes.   When a wandering nation are prevailed upon to fettle, and to fubmit to the laws of their Prince, he ill deferves the name of Tyrant, who endeavours by laws, by commerce, and by other means, to rer S form,
form his fubjects, even in fpite of themfelves, and make them capable of liberty !
None but the fpeculative enthufiaft will ever brand the facred name of Peter I. nor of any Prince who purfues meafures fimi-lar to his, with the name of Tyrant.— There cannot be a ffronger proof of a Monarch's wifhing his people to be free, than that of his taking every ftep to render them capable and worthy of freedom.
The Kitan or Kathan Tartars, were the firft conquerors of China, and gave their name to it, Cathay; by which name it is ftill known to the Tartars and Ruffians, who call, too, the fluff Nankin, the famous manufacture of China, Catayka.— Thefe firft conquerors, in conjunction with the original natives, built the celebrated wall, to keep out the numerous fwarms that crouded after the Kitans to their good fortune. The Kitans and Chi-nefe were, however, overpowered fuccef-fively, by the Mongul and Tongufian Tartars.
tars. It is a Prince of the laft horde that now fits upon the Chinefe Throne.
The ruin of the Chinefe Empire would have naturally followed its conqucft by the different nations of Tartars, had the Tartars then been the barbarous race they now are; and a fecond Rome have tumbled before the Goths of Scythia. The Romans, unable to fave themfelves, faved China, In their expeditions into Tartary, they left behind them a tafte for the arts, and, no doubt, many ftragglers of their legions. The Tartars had, befides, in their wars with India, procured a tafte for in-duftry as well as for plunder; and monuments of ancient grandeur, the remains of noble cities and other works, incon-teftibly prove that Tartary was formerly the feat of elegance and arts. Thofe tribes, who boaft their refemblance to the ancient Monguls by their prefent vagrant life, ex-pofe their ignorance and degeneracy.
It would appear that China had drawn into it all the enterprifing and induftrious S 2 Tartars,
Tartars, for thofe left behind fell off from the reputation of their forefathers ; or elfe, the fuccefs of one tribe, in the conqueft of that country, raifed a fimilar fpirit in their brethren at home, which however fub-fided at laft, after many conflicts among themfelves, in fubjection to one or other of the great powers around them. That part of Tartary which fent China her prefent Lords, is under the fame law, and its natives ftill acknowledge the Emperor of China for their Khan.—They have feveral times attempted, with the aififiance of the Chinefe, to fubjugate other kingdoms in Tartary, but have been repeatedly drove back, by fome brave and numerous hordes, which yet remain to defend the tombs of their anceflors. The Monguls and the Tongufians, when they palfed the great wall, were not one-hundredth part fo numerous as the Chinefe : a civil war among themfelves gave an opportunity for attack to a few daring invaders. They copied the example of the Romans, and, by adopting the drefs and
manners
c m )
manners of the vanquished, prevented them from feeing this inferiority of numbers. The Tartar language, alfo, bearing a near affinity to the Chinefe, the conquered could not diff inguifb, in the armies of the ufurpers, who were Tartars, or who their countrymen; nor know, of courfe, with what probability of fuccefs they might be attacked.
China may be confidered as a province of Tartary. It has been certainly, from the earlieff period of time, peopled by refugees from this mother country, flying from tyranny and oppreffion. The mountains afforded them protection, and the delightful climate and rich foil, eafily invited thofe who had fled from war, to arts of peace. It was probably owing, in like manner, to defeat and oppreffion, that colonies were driven into China, by fea, from Egypt.
LETTER XXVII.
Finniftj Nations—Error of M. Buffon— Cuftoms and Manners of the Tartar Nations—Of the Religion of Barbarous Nations—Similarity of Cuftoms between the Tartars and Ameri can Indians.
St. Peterfburg, April, 1789.
The Finniih nations in Europe are thofe inhabiting Finmark, and the provinces bordering upon the Gulph of Finland. They are different from the other tribes, inhabiting the more northern parts of Europe and Afia, in language and religion. Their manners have a nearer resemblance, as muff happen to tribes and nations, whether they be of the fame origin or not, dwelling in the lame climate, and under the fame circumffances. Difference of language is not always, however,
ever, a certain proof of a different origin; nor, on the contrary, is fimilarity of cuftoms a proof of the fame original—if it were, the Fins and Tartars are nearly related to the Romans.   " We find in Lap-" land," fays M. Buffon, * " and in the " northern parts of Tartary, a race of c< fmall-fized men, whofe figure is un-" couth, and whofe phyfiognomyis as wild " as their manners are unpolifhed j though " they ftfem to be of a degenerate fpecies, " they yet are numerous, and the countries " they occupy extenfive. The Laplanders, " the Danes, the Swedes, the Mofcovites, <c the inhabitants of Nova Zembla, the " Borandians, the Samoeids, the Oftiacs " of the old continent, the Greenlanders, " and the Savages to the north of the Ef-<f quimaux Indians of the new continent, " appear to be one common race, which " has been extended and multiplied along " the coafts of the northern feas, and over lc deferts confidered as uninhabitable by S 4 ** every
* Hiftoirc Nat.
" every other nation." This hypothecs M, Buffon attempts to fupport, by fimi-Iarity of fize and features; but this refem-blance is merely ideal. The Ruffians, Swedes, and Danes, are as unlike the natives beyond the Arctic Circle, as the other inhabitants of Europe. They are in general tall, well made, and comely, and as different in language and cuftoms as any two people can poffibly be—except in one inftance j wearing fur cloaks in Winter.
The Afiatic tribes, inhabiting Siberia and the banks of the Wolga, are divided into Fins and Tartars. The latter prevail in number. The Laplanders, with the Greenlanders, Fins, and other tribes upon the Frozen Ocean, were, without doubt, the original inhabitants of Ruflia, Denmark, and Sweden, and had been driven out by the anceftors of the prefent pof-feffors; a matter which is confirmed, in a certain degree, by the traditions of Lapland.
The
The Ruffians call the firft numerical figure Odin, probably in allufion to the firft in place and dignity, as this celebrated Leader was of the northern hives.  The native country of Odin is Scandinavia.   As we approach the Pole, or enter the diftant plains of Tartary, he is lefs known. In Tartary he was only a Chief of a wander- r ing tribe.   In Scandinavia he was the Sovereign, and God of fixed nations. We find the Laplanders and Tartars in particular having other Gods than Odin : they worlhip the Sun, in which, however, they fuppofe the exiftence of a divine being.— The Afiatic Fins and Tartars offer to this luminary annual facrifice \ in Spring, to fupplicate a plenteous harveft: and in Autumn or Winter, to return thanks for it, they offer the fruits of the earth. The Oftiac Tartars have fome fimple inftru-ments of mufic among them, and fome fimple tunes} they add to thefe, extemporary fongs, and, when infpired with the bottle, extemporary verfes.    They have pantomime dances: the dancer puts on a
mafk,
mafk, and changes his drefs, as he would imitate different men, hearts, and birds. In thofe Tartar mafks it is eafy to difco-ver the origin of our modern mafquerades, and our Scythian extraction. Thefe cuftoms are common to many tribes, and in their dances, the women affect the moft amorous geftures; in which particular there is a refemblance between them and the Ruffian females. Their manner of dancing is exactly the fame as that of the women of the iflands of the Indian Ocean, reprefented in the plates of Captain Cook's voyages.
Befides the fun, the Tartars have various inferior Deities, prefiding over vegetation, over harveft and hunting; and every family too, and every foreft, and river, and lake, has its peculiar God. The lower man is funk in ignorance, the greater is his fear; he multiplies his Gods, as a kind of body-guard's, again ft the equal number of evil Genii which his fertile
imagination creates along with them.—
He
He cannot conceive how one Deity is able to extend attention and protection to all animate and inanimate fubftances.---Even in our moft exalted ftate of knowledge, it is almoft too great a weight for the human mind to comprehend the vaft-nefs of a Power, which of itfelf created and regulates all things. As our minds enlarge, the fictitious Gods are banilhed. The lakes, the woods, and firm land, and floating feas, are, as it were, delivered into the hands of one Almighty Governor !
In the facrifice for obtaining plenty of food, the women are permitted to join; but in no other facrifice. Many tribes, who deny the female title to future ex-iftence, imagine that it is unneceffary in the ladies to folicit the Gods, unlets for prefent fubiiftence. The Tartars open a furrow in the Spring, with great ceremony j and in this they are imitated by their defcendant, the Emperor of China. If the harveft fail, they fay it is owing to the Chriftian part of their countrymen, who
offer
offer no Sacrifices. They have a grand fef-tival in honour of all the Gods, and make their offerings before fires, as at an altar. They throw cold water upon the victim, and if it does not fhiver at the feventh ablution, it is deemed an unfortunate omen. The Prieffs, when the vicfim is dreffed, hold up in a dim part of the animal to the Gods, and then divide the reft among the votaries, as was alfo cuftomary among both the Greeks and Romans.
Parents, and age, over all the eaft, are highly venerated. In the Affemblies, in which matters of war and hunting are debated, the old men are firft heard. The North American Indians prefent the moft ftriking pictures of filial love, or rather of filial adoration, in the annual refurrection of their dead relations. The Afiatics do not carry their refpect to fo awful a degree, yet they tranfport the bodies of their dead friends to vaft diftances, to be interred near their other relations, if they happen to die in the country of ft rangers;
and
they have annual feftivals, in commemoration of the dead.   The Tartars in general are very pious and fincere in their devotions: every one holds a rofaryin his hand, by which they mark the number of their ablutions. The Prieff fits crofs-legged upon his heels, facing the congregation ; he recites the prayers in a foft and pathetic tone of voice, and the affembly repeat them, or anfwer amen to each. The prayers of fuch tribes as are of the Mahomedan Religion, are in the Arabic language. When the word Alia is pronounced, every one heaves a profound figh, flops his ears, fhuts his eyes, covering his face with his hands, and bending it towards the ground, as if unworthy to hear the facred name pronounced, or to look up to Heaven.
The Tartars wifli to be interred near the tombs of reputed Saints, as well as their relations, carrying their affections and their zeal to the grave. If the weather be hot, and thediflance considerable of thefe fe-pulchres, the dead body is reduced to a
ike-
Ikeleton, which is tranfported to the def-tined place; while they bury the other parts where death firft: arretted them.   When a Tartar, in travelling, chances to ride by the tomb of his friend, he enters into conversation with the dead—inquires into his prefent condition, and, Snatching a handful of hair from his horfe's mane, depofits it upon the tomb.   The Americans re-femble the Tartars in every thing regarding veneration for the dead, and funeral obfequies.   They place the dead bony upon a cloth, prefenting it with different viands and fruits, put a pipe in its mouth, and converfe with it concerning the accident which occalioned his death. They afk if his wife, or fons, or daughters had vexed him, and broken his heart; pro-mifing Satisfaction upon the delinquents, and to perform annual honours to his manes.   The Ruffians have (till remaining among them cuftoms fimilar to thefe: and, in feveral other cuftoms of the Scythians, the fimilarity between their manners and the Americans, would feem to
confirm
confirm the idea of America having been peopled from the north-eaftern parts of Afia.
The Tartars formerly, when richer than they are now, ufed to bury, with the dead, valuable articles of filver and gold: yet fuch is their veneration for their an-ceffors, it is ftill held, as it always was, the higheft facrilege, to plunder the fepul-chres. The Ruffians, lets fcrupulous, find great treaiures in digging the tombs in Siberia and Tartary. This proves the degeneracy of the Tartars more than any thing elfe: the permitting ftrangers, I mean, to difturb the fhades of their fathers. But their ancient ipirit no longer exifts, and even the Kalmuc will foon begin to put moft value on things of this world.
LETTER XXVIII.
The different Tartar Tribes,—Marriage Ceremonies—A Tartar Divorce—Trial jor Adultery in Tartary—Tartarians Gods and Gcddejjes—Funeral Orations—Anecdotes of the Circassians—A Tartar Love Song.
St. Peterfburg, April, 1789.
The various nations of Tartars are not only jealous of their diftinct origins, but of preferving their race pure and unfullied from mixture, unlets with theMonguls or Kalmucs, whom they elteem the higheft clafs. There are fmall villages in Siberia, which contain a whole nation of thofe unadulterated fpecies, covered with rags and naftinefs, and funk into the lowett degree of ignorance. Sometimes thefe little nurfe-
ries
ries of empires are reduced to ten or twenty families, and no longer able to exiff of themfelves, they intermarry with the tribe among whom they dwell, if thefe happen to be of inferior rank, as none other would admit of fuch alliance.   Hence the language of the reduced tribe, as well as their peculiar manners and cuftoms, in a (hort tirr a. become extinct:. The Arinzes, a Tartar tribe inhabiting Siberia, reduced to a fmall number by war and misfortunes, fled and affociated with the Kat Schinzes, taking wives among them.   In the year 1735, when Meflfs. Muller and Gmelin vifited the Yenifei, there was only one man left who fpoke the Arinzian language. Mr. Muller found this perfon ufeful in giving him words for his vocabulary, from a language nearly expiring.   When Mr. Muller, and his fellow-traveller, Gmelin, vifited the fame part, in the year 1740, the Arinzian was dead, and the language of his nation, and his nation itfelf with him!
Whatever
Whatever difputes may arife about the origin of men, the origin of women affords no grounds for any.   It is perfectly dif-tinct.   They are all of the fame race and family—whether they are placed under the Pole or the Line—whether they tread, bare-footed, the deferts of Tartary, or lead the dance in the gayefl Parifian Affem-blies, they fhew themfelves to be of the fame genuine ftock, in cuftoms and manners.   The Parifian lady pillages every toy-fliop to ornament her perfon: the Tartarian damfel, for the fame end, is equally eager in exploring the fliores of every lake—every hill, and plain, and wood: in order to fet off her charms, fhe picks up every pebble and fhell.   They all agree in one purfuit—man.   Their language and oratory are the fame—their eyes, their tears. They allow men to conquer Aha, Africa, Europe, and America, and when men have done, they lay hold of the victors.
Wives, among all thofe northern and eaftern nations, are purchafed by the men;
and
and fo foon as a Tartar female is mar-riagable, the mother hangs a white fheet Upon the outride of the tent, as fignal to batchelors. The parents in Tartary, as well as in Europe, keep to themfelves the privilege of making the bargain. The bride, as cultom demands, ftruggles hard at leaving the family hut: the bridegroom requires affiff ance in dragging her away j as it would appear forward and ungrateful to feem to go willingly from her parents and Houfehold Gods, and immodeltly to rufh into the arms of a ft range hufband. They at leaft make a fhow of
■ -Innocence, and virgin modefty, That wou'd be woo'd, and not unfought be won.
Milton.
The bride is carried to bed, by force.— Among fome tribes, they fet her upon a mat, and, taking the corners, carry her into the bed-room, faying to the bridegroom, " Here, Wolf, behold thy LambI" But then comes the ordeal trial: if the bridegroom fufpects the virginity of the bride, he returns the wanton to her relations again, allowing, T 2 how-
however, the purchafe-money. Among the Oftiacs the cuftom varies: if the bridegroom be fatisfied with his bride, he pre-fents, next morning, a rhein deer, to his mother-in-law : but fhould he not be fatisfied, the mother-in-law prefents a rhein deer to the bridegroom; thereby juftly and ingenuoufly implying, that the daughter being under the mother's care, the praife or blame of her conduct belongs to her guardian. If a Tartar is determined no longer to bear with the frailties of his wife, he goes up to her, and tears off her cap or veil; and this, of itfelf, conff itutes a divorce. The Tongufian, when he has detected his wife in criminal connection with other men, challenges the adulterer and, being armed with large clubs, the challenger firft receives feveral blows from the challenged, upon his back, which is then returned alternately, until one or other is killed, and frequently both. If* the adulterer refutes the challenge, he muft pay whatever is demanded by the injured hufband, in cattle and goods.
The
The Tartars have their Gods and God-defies in as great abundance as the Greeks and Romans, with other names, but with the fame employments. Their Juno is called Youma Ava, or Mother of the Gods; her fons are the inferior Deities. Pan is chriftened Vadafch, and we find him at his old trade of fheep-herding. The men are under the protection of the Gods, the women of the Goddeffes, whom they addrefs feparately. Unlike the ancients, they be-ffow the title of Thunderer upon an inferior Deity ■> and. indeed, leave very few things for Jupiter to do, except to get children. The Tartars have fome Furies too, but I have not found over whom they pre-fide, as the Tartar hufbands keep their wives in tolerable order with the help of a whip—a famous inffrument in northern countries for making peace—It is the olive branch of Scythia,
Polygamy is permitted among the Tartars, yet it is only the wealthy who can indulge in this • the women chufmg, in T 3 ge-
general, to have a poor hufband to themfelves, rather than to be one of two or three to the richefr. Chief. If a Tartar has not fufficient money or goods to purchafe a wife, he ferves his father-in-law a certain number of years, as Jacob did of old; or perhaps he ffeals a wife from a ffrange tribe. They prefer Kalmuc women to all others, alledging, that they preferve the marks of youth longer than thofe of the common race of Tartars; and to procure fuch alluring wives, they make incurfions into the Kalmuc countries, in order to carry the women off. The haughty Kalmucs would never confent to fuch marriages.
Should a Tartar leave a Kalmuc widow, fhe difplays, in a funeral oration, the heroic tendernefs of her hufband, who did not purchafe hcr#vith vile cattle or money, but ventured his life to obtain hen fhe boafts of his conjugal love, his gene-rofity, his wifdom, his economy, and wealth 5 the number of cattle which he
had
had ftolen, and flaves which his valour had procured him. She pourtrays the noble figure he made upon horfe back, in the chace, and in battle.
The Tartars are not remarkable for the chaftenefs of their character j yet we find examples, even among the Circaflians, who make a trade of beauty, of refpect to decency. Thefe, when under bondage to the Khan of Crimea, were obliged to fur-nifh his haram with a handfome young virgin annually. The Khan fent regularly his Officers to demand this tribute to luft. It happened that the Officers ufing improper freedoms in examining the girls, were put to death by the enraged fathers and relations. They collected their forces, and they cut in pieces the army of the Khan, which was fent againfl them to revenge the murder of his Minifters,
From native poetry and fongs, the dif-pofition of a people are beft determined 5 and if we may judge of the amorous com-T 4 plexion
plexion of the Tartars from theirs, wc fhall think very highly of their tender feelings. The following is a female love fong, literally tranflated from the Kalmuc language $ the fubjecf, the abfence of a lover.
As ever in the morning the larks exalt their voice, And I liften to their long: So my beloved comes inceilantly into my mind ! Ah ! my father ! excellent at fhooting with the bow 1 Ah ! my mother! of fo kind a difpofition ! Muft it then abide only in my thoughts ? Thoughts are ever deceitful; Senfual perceptions alone are real. O, my friend 1 let this be told to you— The conjundtions of Nature are powerful. The approach of our fate is concealed. Blifs flies of itfelf, unexpectedly, And is deftroyed by the viciffitudes of the courfc of the world.
Let me try how it will look in another drefs, or rather freely paraphrafed.
The lark, the cheerful harbinger of light, On quiv'ring pinions hails the op'ning day,
And as he foars, difpels the lilent night With rapt'rous long, with Heav'n-infpired lay.
Ala*'
Alas ' his fong no comfort brings to me,
Sad rccolle&ion of my abfent love ! This little Cherub laughs at mifery,
In Heaven's bofom plays—or myrtle grove.
O ! happy they who in Jove's wedded bands, Their bodies and their fouls together prefs'd ;
My father, brave as e'er trode defert lands,
My mother, fair and yielding, both are blefs'd.
Oh ! come my love ! nor let deceitful glow
■ Of blifs, not real, haunt my nightly dreams : Life's but a day—Oh ! let's that day enjoy,
For (hort-Iiv'd blifs, in its fhort paffage, fwims.
Soon into deep futurity will fink,
Uncertain if to happinefs, or woe : Then come, my love, the living fubftance drink,
And let our fouls, on earth at kaft, fome pleafure know !
Thofe Tartars who deny the rights of women to a future ftate, at the fame time exempt them from all crimes here; and they are fubject to no laws, but the reftraint of their huibands. Other tribes admit their ladies to accompany them to the other world—where, fay they, good men will find their families, their cattle, and property of various kinds, in a much better
ftate
ftate than in this. According to their near or remote acquaintance with their Maho-medan brethren, their religion is more or lefs mixed with its tenets: and fome-times the doctrines of the Lama, and of Mahomet, are fo jumbled among the om-mon race of Tartars, that it is difficult to fay what they profefs. They call their Heaven the land of perfect perfection : their Hell is a cold one, where the poor wretch is doomed to wander, fhivering, naked, and forlorn.
ITTTF.R XXIX.
Cuftoms and Manners of the Tartars—Inter efling Anecdote of the Tor got Horde—<-Specimens of Tartar Poetry^ from the Accounts of the Rufsian Travellers—M.Pallas s Account of the Kalmucs—Anecdotes of the Tonguftans, the beft of all the Tartar Rations—Politenefs to their Women.
St. Peteriburg, April, 1789,
The Scythians, though fhepherds, never refembled, in the leaft, the portraits drawn of Arcadian fwains. Their crooks are fpears; their mellow pipes, are harfh-throated horns; and their hamlets are filled with bows and poifoned arrows.— They are butchers rather than fhepherds; their flocks are fed for {laughter. Where there is agriculture there is proportionable peace and protection : but there is not the
like
like fecurity and repofe in the paftoral life. However brave they may be, we mall find that nation molt averfe to war, where agriculture and commerce ftourifli moft.— Where there is a fixed and great property, the poffeffors are not fond of running the chances of war, by which they may lofe, but cannot gain.
The Tartars are hofpitable to ft rangers. In their prayers, they beg that God would beftow plenty, to enable them to warm and comfort the traveller. When you have once procured their friendfhip by kind offices, they feldom betray any confidence put in them. To one another they are very kind in misfortune, parting with a fhare of their wealth to re-inflate their countrymen in the condition from which they had fallen. Some Writers apologife for their depredations, on the ground that they proceed from a falfe notion of bravery. When a band of Tartars, or I fhall fay a foraging party, have feized upon a herd of cattle, they make a feaft, and what is not needed
for
for prefent confumption, is fent home.— As they grow weary of the expedition, they dropoff, without aiking leave of any one. Their prifoners they make their flaves, as no Tartar, unlefs in the utmoft neceflity, will be a menial fervant. The women difcover, as every where elfe, a mild and humane difpofition: they are the prifoner's advocate with their fierce hufbands, and often connive at their ef-cape, at the hazard of their own lives.— The Ruffian Government, having found the Tartars rather fickle political friends, oblige them to give hoftages; and it is common to fee, in theftreets of Peteriburg, a Tartarian Prince, who is fecurityfor his father's or brother's fubjecls. If it be true, that the Tartars are abject flaves to their own Princes, whom they almoft a-dore, we are at a lofs to reconcile with this their love of freedom. It would feem, they are attached to their old cuftoms, rather than to actual liberty • and when un-retrained in hunting and robbing, they imagine themfelves free.   Their ardent
love
love of a wandering life is ftrorigiy marked by the following occurrence.
The Torgots, a Mongolian horde, formerly inhabited the banks of the Woiga. The Tartarian horde to which they belonged, diffolved, at the death of their Khan, Galdan Zeren, in the year 1746. Part fubmitted to China; part fled to the deferts, to enjoy independence; and the remainder acknowledged Ruflia for their protector, and pitched their tents near the Wolga. They had frequent difputes with the various hordes already under the Ruffian Government, and were conftantly endeavouring to fubdue each other. Their dread of falling, at-laft, into the power of fome of thefe, or of the Ruffians, who were under the neceffity of interfering, in order to keep their Volgaic hordes in awe, made them conceive the defign of marching back into Soongaria, their native country. Their Priefts, to accelerate their motions, foretold their bondage to the Ruffians, who, they pretended, would oblige
them
them to follow agriculture, and furnifli recruits for the Imperial Armies. Trembling at this idea, the whole body moved, in the beginning of the year 1770, towards the plains of Soongaria. The ground was covered with fnow, and they had a vaft tract of country, and many rivers to pafs in their journey; the hardfliips of which, and the attacks they experienced from the numberlefs Tartar nations in their way, reduced them more than one-half before they arrived at their deffination. In this ft ate, they fell an eafy victim to the Chinefe, who forced them to apply themfelves to huibandry, and difmiffed their Prietts, whofe councils might foon again remove them.
Among thofe who were detained by the Ruffians, who puriued them, and brought feveral thoufands of them back, we find a piece of poetry, the burthen of which is the flight of their brethren, and their melancholy fituation in being divided.
As when the heav'ns, in a night ferene, The twinkling fiars illuminate the fcene, And gild the azure firmament on high, And fling their fparkling glories thro' the fky. ' Tis filence all! and peace and pleafure reign, No cloud obfcurcs the air, no ftorm the main. At once a folcmn gloom draws o'er our head, Involving earth and heav'n in one dark fliade. Such quick viflicitudes of blifs and woe Attend the cm-fed fates of men below. Our friends arc fled ! we folitary ftay Where the defcrted Wolga finds his way ; Where, too, the lovely Mazak's orphan ftream: Ah ! is it thus ? or do I only dream ? No ! no ! they're gone I—at leaft bid us adieu! And fay, " with broken hearts we part from you I Sad is the journey for your flocks and herd; Was it not better what we have prefer'd ? Or, fhall we, Heav'n forbid ! drag Slav'ry's chains I While you, in freedom, fcour your native plains! How lank, how lean will be the gen'rous horfe, The herds how crippled with fo long a courfe, O'er rugged frozen hills and fn ,vy dales ; Fate bids it fo, and Fate o'er all prevails. Ah ! comfort us with hope of your return ! Muft we from Houfehold Gods be ever torn ? Muft we for Houfehold Gods and you for ever mourn?
" The Kalmucs," fays M. Pallas, " are more active than the other tribes. They
" are
are a cunning people, but focial; even " in temper, upon every occafion; friend-" ly to their dependants, and faithful to " their Princes; which is remarkable in " fuch widely extended plains and in fuch " a vagrant people. Were it not owing " to their attachment to their native man-" ners, they would not keep together.—• JJ Their tents are of felt, made of the wool " of their fheepj and, indeed, fo hairy, it " is fit for nothing elfe, but very fit for Sf this, keeping out the wind and rain, " and being very portable. They are car-" ried by camels, which, however, do not \\ thrive well in thofe regions. A com-w mon property among them, is ten cows " and a bull, or ten mares and a ftallion j " but they number fometimes by hun-u dreds and thoufands. They ufe the *' bulls for beafls of burthen, and keep u many of them, effeemingone bull as va-" luable as fifty cows. The lambs of their " flreep fupply furs for pellices, or great ** Winter cloaks."
U " When
" When a Kalmuc horde intends to re-" move in fearch of frelh palf ure, which, " in Summer, they are under the neceffity " of doing every four, fix, or eight days, " people are, in the firft place, fent out " to reconnoitre the belt fpot for pitching " the tents of the Khan, or Prince—for " the Lama, or Priefts—and for the idols. " Thefe begin the march, and are followed " by the whole troop, each chufing what " place they think belt in the cavalcade. " The Camel that is loaded with the moft ** precious furniture, is decorated withlit-" tie bells; the reft march in a firing, the u one behind the other. The Bulls, with " the lefs valuable burthens, are driven on " before. On thofe days, the girls drefs " themfelves in their beft apparel, not " forgetting the art of painting, which is " common to the Afiatics : they have the " charge, together with the boys, of lead-" ing the cattle, and on the roads they " beguile the tedioufnefs of the journey " with their fongs. Befides milk, the " Kalmucs are fond of roots.   They pro-
" cure
( m )
<( cure tea, though at a high price, from M Ruflia, which they mix, or fometimes " fubftitute wild herbs intirely for this be-u witching beverage. They cannot en-" dure hot rooms, and are very healthy."
The Monguls, or Kalmucs—-the Mand-JJmirs, or Tongufians, are the two moft dittinguifhed tribes of all the Tartar nations. They both claim theirdefcent from the Conquerors of China, and boalf of native Princes who have fat, or ftill are feated upon the Chinefe Throne. The Kalmucs, the nation of Tzingis Khan, were driven out of China, A. D. 1368,— They revenged their difgrace upon the other Tartars, and deluged their native plains with blood, in fearch of new fettle-men ts. They have now little to diffin-guifh them but their name. The Mand-fhours, more fortunate, were called in by the Chinefe during a civil war; and the wooden horie, once admitted within the walls, has kept his ftation. The Kalmuc Monguls inhabit the countries fituated up-U 2 on
on the Wolga. The Mandfhours, at the other end of the earth, pitch their tents upon the banks of the Amur, and coafts of the northern and eaftern ocean. The Kalmucs, tired with unfuccefsful ftrug-gles, fubmitted to the protection of Ruffia, and the tattered remnants of Tzingis Khan's hoft craved leave to reft under the wing of the Imperial Eagle. The Ton-gufians bravely defended themfelves againfl: the firft Ruffians who ventured to attack them in their native country; but they were at laft vanquifhed, by the fuperior difcipline of their invaders. Though vanquifhed, their fpirit was the fame, and breathing ftill independence. They revolted when an opportunity offered, and murdered the Ruffian Tax-Gatherers. It was not until the year 1657, that Ruffia had obtained the peaceable government of a part of this generous tribe. The Kalmucs are chiefly dittinguifhed from the common race of Tartars, by their form of government, which is monarchical. Their attachment to their Princes keeps up fome
order
order among them, and discipline. The other hordes chufe, among themfelves, Chiefs, according to their ideas of their abilities, paying, at the fame time, due attention to the wealth of thofe elected.
The Kalmuc drefs nearly refembles the Chinefe, no doubt from their longrefidence among that people. The country of the Kalmucs is moft favourable to agriculture, being of a good foil and climate, and not incumbered with woods j yet the breeding of cattle is their favourite employment, as it is attended with lefs manual labour, which they abominate, as derogatory to their high defcent, rather than from any averfion to eat the produce of the lands, for they purchafe meal and other articles from the Ruffians. The Kalmucs I have feen at Peterfburg are of a middling fize, and it inftantly flrikes you, upon fight, that you had feen them before.-— Any perfon in the leaft converfant with the Hiftory of China, and who has feen the plates in the hiftories of that country, U 3 will
will be at no lofs to know a Kalmuc whenever he meets him. Their head and face are broad and round; and they have fmal.l eyes and notes, with fwarthy complexions. Their head is fhaved, all but a fmail lock at the top; and they wear a bell-fafhion-ed cap. The Tartar vifage runs through the whole.
They have learnt at Peteriburg to get into chaifes, where they cut a droll figure, when contrafted with the powdered Courtier, in his vis-a-vis* They have not learnt how many are proper to lit in a chaife at a time, and pack together in crouds, re-fembling a ring of bells.   They are laid not to be the moft cleanly in their perfons: their idle way of life eafity accounts for this.   The Tartars who profefs Maho-medanifm, have at leafl changed fo far for the better, in learning to wafh themfelves. They are a lively, and feem naturally an ingenious people   but their lazy habits, and vagrant life, have naturally given them all the attendant vices.  There are fevy in7
ttances
fiances of murder among the Kalmucs, which, as they are exceedingly irritable and revengeful, is attributed to their belief in Ghofls.
Murder, among the Tartars, is punifh-ed with death, and that inflicted by the hands of the deceafed's relations. If, however, they cannot find the culprit, and their anger abates, they frequently accept a compenfation in money or cattle.
The Monguls have fome relicts among them of their ancient pre-eminence.— They have fchools for teaching their children, not only the common parts of education, but likewife geography, hiftory, aftronomy, medicine, and theology: and they have written books of laws. Their code is very favourable to women, who are confidered by them as incapable of any crime. Moft of the Afiatics efteem the female fex in no other light, than as mere inftruments of pleafure, and as a kind of human dolls, for men to play with all,— U 4 Even
Even thofe Tartars who permit their ladies to accompany them to the other world, mean it only for their own pleafure—they do not bring them before Radamanthus : their women, like their cattle, are only a part of their equipage on the journey.
The domettic animals of the Kalmucs are Camels, Horfes, Cows, Sheep, and Goats: they have neither Swine nor Poultry. Their Horfes, befides the purpofe of riding, ferve them in all. refpech as Cows. They are fond of Mare's milk. Iiorfe's flefh is a delicacy with them; fo that upon any expedition, they are in no danger of wanting food, as every Tartar leads one or two fpare Horfes: they need not waggons to convey their provifions, they contrive to make their provifions carry themfelves. The fleetnefs of their Horfes, in their frequent marches, gives them the preference to all other animals, with thofe, hordes; and a man of quality is therefore known by his numerous ftud; in fome in-ftances, as fome will have it, to the number
of
of four thoufand. The Camels areufed for heavy burthens, and the great men likewife ride upon them in ordinary journeys, or when the tribes are removing to a new fpot of land.
The women manage the ceconomy within doors—the men look to every thing elfe. The exercifes of the Kalmucs are manly, and confift in mooting with the bow, and wreftling. They are fond, too, of finging, but the performance is with the females. In addition to the fpecimens of their fongs already given, take the following. The fubjecl is a lamentation for a dying lover.
THE MAID. Thy reddifli bay horfe
Falls languishing on the banks of the river Sail! Thou falleft, courageous youth—thou that art mine j To thee the Moon will be a ftedfaft companion.
THE DYING YOUTH.
The Eagle's feather that is ftuck in my hair Take from me, and carry it to my friends:
Ah!
Ah \ when you deliver it, fo do it that their tender hearts
Be not fmitten with anguifh at hearing the doleful news:
And let them the golden-lettered Schodba* Order to be read for twelve long years for me.
THE MAID.
Prince of my heart, fall'n in the bloody field, Cover'd with duft and gore : the Moon will yield A fecial beam, and gild his broken fhicld. His gen'rons Steed, in anguifh for the flain, Ties near his corps, where Sail winds thro' the plain,
THE DYING LOVER. Ah ! hear my laft, this laft requeft, my Fair! The Eagle's feather, that adorns my hair, Bear to my friends, and when you give it, fay, " He died a hero, glory led the way !'* Tear not their bofoms with fad tales of woe, How the keen arrow ftruck the deadly blow j Nor echo to their fouls my dying groans, For my difturbed (hade will hear their moans. Tell them to read, for twelve long years, for me, The golden-letter'd book, in memory, Then fhall I foftly reft amidft eternity !
The
* Schodba is a fort of mats far the dead, written in Tetters of gold.
The fubjects of their fongs are, in genera!, the fabulous (lories of gigantic chivalry, heroic tales, and amorous ditties. Their mufical inifruments are, the lute, the violin, and the pipe: they likewife amufe themfelves with playing at chefs, and cards.
Funeral ceremonies are ftrictly obferved by all the Tartars. The moft honourable manner of reducing the body to dutt, according to the notions of the Kalmucs, is that of burning. They have an idea, too, that fuch purification by tire, procures admiffion for the foul directly into Para-dife.
The Tongufians are partly under the Government of China, and partly under that of Ruflia. Their character is a medium betwixt the proud oftentatious Kalmuc, and the common tribes addicted to pilfering, and other low vices. The Ton-gufian nation are divided into two claffes— the fhepherds, and the huntfmen. Their
rugged
Tugged country affords good opportunity for the chace, and plenty of game to induce them to make hunting a buhnefs.— The Kalmuc country is flat, and without wood; the Kalmucs, therefore, hunt but for amufement, and that feldom. The Tongufian huntfman considers the fliep-herd's life as effeminate, and unworthy of men : he If rings his bow, hangs his quiver at his back, and climbs the mountain's fide, fmiling at the folly of his lefs active countrymen, in depriving themfelves of that health and vigour which the purfuit of the Wolf and the Bear gives to him. Few of the Tartar or northern nations are now difHnguifhed for their hardy manner of life.
The Tongufian huntfman prides himfelf upon his fobriety, as well as upon his athletic exercifes. He calls the fhepherd luxurious, who indulges in drinking a fpirit drawn from four milk. The fhephcrds are more wealthy than the huntfmen, and more at their eafe.   Eafe and wealth have
ever
ever occafioned luxury, and here we fee it in its infancy. The fhepherds do not expofe themfelves to cold, like the huntfmen; but the huntfmen are warmer, by exercife, than the others, even with the aid of brandy— brandy, which is as dangerous a fubftitute for warmth or exercife, as opium for reft. Scurvy, the common difeafe of northern climates, is not known among the Tongufian huntfmen, until old age prevents them from undergoing their ufual fatigue. Even their want of cleanlinefs, does not bring this calamity, until their bodies and their minds are no longer kept in motion. Scurvy is the conftant attendant of laz.i-nefs and dirtinefs j and wherever it is found, the other two qualities are not far removed.
The Tongufian huntfman, while he pre-fents the lineft character to be found in Tartary, is an evidence againfl the imparl tion of thofe excufes that are made for
drunkennefs.-They retain health and
ftrength of body to the lateft period of their
ex-
exiftence.   They deteft every thing mean ordifhonourable—are as jealous of any reflection upon their good name, as the moft polite nations, and, like them, decide all difputes of this nature by duel, fhooting, the one at the other, with arrows. They formerly fought in prefence of the elders, but now the Ruffian Government have forbid fuch encounters, and the men of honour retire to fettle their difputes in other countries. Their noble families, too, are as high-mettled as any in Europe.—-The brothers are guardians of their fitter's reputation, and fhould a lady of birth be imprudent, the lover muft marry her, if of equal rank -} if not, her brother moot* him, without further ceremony. The women are treated with the greateft refpeft and tendernefs; and, in return, they are the moft affectionate wives ■> fo that at the death of their hufbands, they are not to be prevented, without difficulty, from killing themfelves.   The young women make a prefent to their intended hufbands, of a drefs, as a fpecimcn of their fewing. The
women
women are the mufical performers, upon all occafions. The Ruffian males contend in this art with the females: but as the Ruflians are a brave people, we cannot conclude that mufic is an effeminate amufement. Nature would feem to have hefi-tated whether to make the Ruffians a nation of Warriors, or Nightingales, and, in hefitating, fhe made them both.
LETTER XXX.
The Rufsian Amufements upon May-Day— The Approach of Summer.
Ingria, May, 1789.
Jn this country of Scythia, I imagine my-felf a thoufand years old, and nearly related to Odin. I confider you as one of my pofterity, and myfelf as writing to you, from my tomb in the Defert of Tartary. I feel a cruft of antiquity gathering round me. The wild fcene of woods and uncultivated tracts prefented to the view, keeps up the dream of ancient times.— When I call my eye towards Peteriburg, the vifion, in part, diifolves; but as the country of Witches is in the neighbourhood, a little farther flretch of imagination can make this emporium appear the effect of enchantment. It is with difficulty
culty I can reconcile myfelf, after wandering through Tartary, and itirring up the allies of Gods and Heroes, to recur to the common tales of travellers, and to inform you what the Ruffians are now about.
This is May-Day, and all the world are affembled at Catherinburg, and hailing, with joy, the return of Summer, after a Winter of fix months.   The earth, lately buried in fnow, appears as riling from the dead—the white covering, or winding-meet, is lying around in fragments. Upon one hand I hear the finging of birds j upon the other, the rending of the ice.— The Gulph of Finland, upon whofe fhore Catherinburg is lituated, is ftill a frozen field.   The Ruffians are making merry in the woods furrounding Catherinburg— drinking, finging, and fmoaking, in tents erected for this particular day. Every chaife, and tingle horfe chair, is parading the ftreets of Catherinburg. I regret much that the Ruffians have no other place more X proper
proper than this, for celebrating fo joyous an anniverfary: yet the empire is not limited by fuch narrow boundary!—the adjacent country not fo fertile or cultivated as to forbid the appropriation of a more extenfive and elegant place of public refort. I deleft extravagance in private works—I deteft ceconomy in public ones.
LETTER XXXI.
Rufsian Summer—Anecdotes of Prince Naf-fau—Of Paid Jones—Princefs Dafch-koff-—Count Besborodko—Rufsian Dances —Rufsian Amufements in Summer.
Ingria, June, 1789.
I have retired from the buttle of the metropolis to the country. My hut is in the neighbourhood of the Ruffian and Finland villages: each rural fight, each rural found. I go out every morning, to fifh in a river which runs through the woods, and I feldom dine without having a dilb of my own providing at table. So much for indultry. The Ruffian girls, who are gathering berries in the foreits, entertain me with their fongs; and in return, I purchafe their collection of wild fruits.
X 2 Winter
Winter has hardly difappeared, when all the earth is dreffed in her fine t liveries. The fir tree alone retains his garb at all feafbns, and keeps his fhaggy coat in the cold weather, in common with the Bear and Wolf, who dwell under her branches. The quick tranlition of the feafon is moft diftinguifhable in the birch forefts: not many days ago, they were naked and fhi-vering; they are now new cloathed in light green, and make a beautiful contrail with the dark hue of the pine. Earth's verdant carpet is fpread over every plain. There is neither hill, nor mountain, nor rock, nor cataract, to bring into my defcription of the Ruffian Spring. The laft Winter was uncommonly fevere, and it is mcceeded by a Summer extremely hot. The fun-beams are almoft unfufferable. I plunge into the river to cool myfelf: but the Ruffians do not follow my example, until they have parboiled their bodies in the vapour bath. This climate is a trying one for any conftitution : the Ruffians make it worfe, by their ridiculous practices.   The field of ice
upon
upon the Gulph only broke up a few days, ago, not with {landing the great heat from the middle of April lad. The farmer was plowing and lowing, in his fhirt, upon land, while Winter ftill bound the ocean, in his fight!
A new fcene opens: the fea is covered with fhips: I hear the thunder of the Ruffian fleet at Cronftadt, whofe harbour appears a wood of mafts. The village where I refide in the country, is fituated about half way between Peteriburg and Cronftadt, and near the fhore of the gulph. 1 view the veffels hourly palling and re-palling, laden with the rich produce of the empire, or carrying to the capital the luxuries of other nations. No traveller, either going from, or coming into Ruflia, can pafs me unobferved. I was here for a few days in April laft, when Prince Naf-fau arrived to take command of the Galley Fleet. He is a fine-looking man, and has already approved himfelf, at leaft, a brave Officer. The inftant of his arrival, he X 3 fent
fent his fervant to the Poftmafter, to enquire if the report was true of Admiral Paul Jones being difmiffed from the Ruffian fervice. The Prince does not admire his late colleague in the Black Sea expedition. Indeed this newly-created Admiral is univerfally defpifed, and muft, of courfe, foon retire. I had the honour of feeing this hero lately: he dined at the poft-houfe, with his doxy, upon a trip of pleafure from Peterfburg. He has nothing remarkable in his figure. I fhould not have noticed him, had he not been pointed out to me. He did not know that the poft-houfe and tavern was kept by an Englifh-man. The Admiral ordered his dinner in bad French; he was anfwered in Englifli, and heftarted backwards. " What," faid he to the Mafter of the houfe, " you are ct an Englishman! how did you know <e that I was of that country ?" Prince Naffau has a fomething about him which immediately interefts you. It is not ne-ceffary to be informed that he is a man of diftinction.   The Prince neglefted to give
his
his pafTport to the Poftmafter. The Poftmafter defired the Prince's fervant to afk it from him, as he could not order horfes for his carriage, however fatisfied he was of his identity and errand to Ruffia, until he faw a regular pafTport for his entry. The fervant replied, " that he had afked the " Prince for it once, and that his Mafter " would of himfelf deliver the pafTport, " without being again put in mind of it, ct which he would not venture to do, un-" lefs he wifhed^to have his head broken V1
We expect foon to hear of an engagement j the Ruffian galley fleet, with that of Sweden. The weather continues very hot. A Captain of a Britifh Eaft-India fhip, who is juft now travelling here, fays, " that he never felt himfelf more incom-. " moded with heat at Bengal, than he *' does now at Peterfburg." It is even dangerous to ftrangers to walk out at midday, fo powerful are the fun's rays. The. very woods have taken fire in fome parts of Ingria. There has been no rain for fe-X 4 veral
vera! weeks: the grafs fields are burnt up, and the grain is ripening upon ftraw, not one foot in length. The river in which I fifh, J am afraid will be dried up. In the evening, at fun-fet, vaff fwarms of gnats, or mufquitos, arife from the top of the fo-reffs, darkening the air. It is a proof of the extreme heat, when thofe infects, hatched in the fun-beams, dare not to venture out fooner. They come at this late hour to fip the dew, which then afcends from the earth, in a white miff. I go out in the morning at three, and four o'clock, to fifh or to bathe: I am driven in again at fix, by the fultry ikies. I feek ths fhade, and exclaim with Virgil,
O quis me gelidis in vallibus Haemi Siftat, et iiigenh ramorum protegat umbra !
This gentleman has given us a picture of the Scythian Winter, but he forgot the Scythian Summer. I put on my troufers, and take my walk in the evening, in defiance of the myriads of gnats. As I wander near the Monaflery of St. Sergius, by
the
the fea more, while the laft knell warns the Monks to prayers and reft, the Nightingale ferenades me with his fong. Perhaps a drunken Ruffian, reeling along the road, difturbs the fweet fyren with his bellowing noife. The bird renews his note, when the Hottentot has paffed. A fine finger, or a fine orator never preffes you to hear them, and they only oblige you if you attend in refpectful hlence.
I have my concert of vocal and inftru-mental mufic, at the poft-houfe, every Sunday. A Ruffian has made for himfelf a kind of harp; and his wife, Daphne, plays a little upon the guittar: but this guittar is cracked in the back, and moft part of the mufic makes its efcape the wrong way: however, the lady compen-fates for this, by the excellence of her voice—fuch as you have heard chanting the Babes of the Wood, or Chevy Chace. We had lately an affembly: two Finland girls performed a Rufs Dance, and trotted about, to the great entertainment of the
bearded
bearded fpecrators. All the Ruffian dances are a kind of pantomime. The dancers are more ftudious of the management of their eyes and hips, than of their feet.— They endeavoured to convey the moft wanton ideas. One of the girls acted the man's part, and threw very amorous glances upon his miftrefs; who, in her turn, blufhed and languifhed. The Coffac Dance was rehear fed by the houfe-lackey and the Parfon's fon of the parifh. This is a challenge dance: the one ftrives to exceed the other in the execution of a variety of fteps and leaps, which they perform alternately. The dancers, in all thefe dances, while they perform their different attitudes and fteps, make the figure of a circle.
A few days ago, as I was attending the concert, Madam Shirbinin, daughter of the Princefs Dafchkoff, entered the room, with feveral ladies and gentlemen. Madam Shirbinin fpeaks Englifh very well: fhe has been formerly in England. This Princefs would go a fifiling: I gave her my
rods
rods and lines. She was returning from Cronftadt, where fhe had been to take farewell of her hufband, who is gone with the galley fleet. Monfieur Shirbinin is a Brigadier-General in the Army. Several regiments have embarked with Prince Naf-fau. His Excellency Count Befborodko, Prime Minifter of Ruffia, with Prince Kourakin, and other Princes and Nobles of the empire in company, dined here.— The Count has raifed himfelf to this eminent ftation by real merit and ability, which are the only recommendations to Catherine II.
We are daily vifited from Peterfburg, by the firft ranks. I cannot get into, or out of my room, without brufhing againfl htr Imperial Majefty's Orders of St. George and St. Andrew ; and have fometimes the honour of playing at billiards with a Knez. The roads are crouded with the Summer carriages of the gentry, called Trofkys : they are of a more elegant conftrucf ion than thofe ufed by the common people. A
double
double row of feats is placed length-ways, upon a low carriage with four wheels; over this is placed'a canopy of filk or other ffuff, with curtains to draw occafionally, at the fides and at the ends, in cafe of rain or duff. This fort of carriage is very convenient, and light: it is cafily drawn by two, but the Ruffian gentry are fond of fplendour, and they have generally four or fix horfes to their carriages, with a cor-refponding number of livery-men. The company fit in two rows, and with their backs to thofe upon the oppofite fide; but when there is room, the Ruffian and German beauties recline themfelves in foft attitudes along the feats. They are fond of difplaying their charms in the open air. The prefent dry feafon collects the duft around them : they look like Angels in the clouds.
The country houfes of the Nobility are placed clofe upon the public road: their noble inhabitants entertain themfelves in tents erected under the trees, if there be
any
any adjoining : here they drink their coffee, and the ladies employ their hours in needle-work, or other amufements.   I obferved female Turks attending upon thefe companies, and likewife riding with their new Miffrelfes, in their carriages. The Ruffian ladies treat them with great ten-dernefs, and feem very fond of the daughters of Oczakow.   Their gardens are in better tafte than their houfes: and, not-withftanding the dead flatnefs of the land, Nature is copied with much exactnefs. The Nobility invite the Public, in Summer, to their gardens, where they are entertained with mufic, failing in boats upon the artificial lakes, fire works, &c. in a magnificent manner.   I was laft Sunday in the gardens of his Excellency M. Na-rifchkin.   There was an aifemblage of the firft rank, as well as of the lower orders, who gain admittance, if decently clean in their apparel.   The muficians were dif-pofed in a grove of trees: the mufic had a fine effect, and feemed to afcend from the earth. It adds nothing to the pleafure
derived
derved from founds, to view thediflorted features of the performers* An orchettra fhould have a curtain drawn before it: the fight of bob wigs, powdered tops, and crooked nofes, add nothing to the pleafure which we derive from mufic. If the performers muft appear, let them be dreffed fome what more like the difciples of Apollo. I cannot with any temper behold Handel taking muff, fcrewing his pins, or rofining his fiddle-flick: it gives the idea of the manufacture of mufic, as well as of tobacco. Thefe obfervations are not applicable to vocal performers: a finger is an orator of harmony; and good figure and geflure are requifite in an orator. Any one who has feen and heard a beautiful woman fing, will confefs that the fight gives new pleafure to the hearing.
Amidfl the fports of dance and fong, I forget the bloody field of war—and I wifh to forget it. The Ruffians are following up their victories over the Turks, with heavier and heavier blows. The unfortunate
fortunate war with Sweden is profecuted with unequal fuccefs on both fides. The grand fleet and galley fleet are both at fea, and we expect, daily, important intelligence. I will not entertain you with the vague accounts I may receive of battles and fieges. Have patience until I can with certainty give you a true and connected narrative.
LETTER XXXII.
Char abler of Peter the Great—Rufsian Nobility—Reflections upon Modern Luxury, as it regards Commerce and Arts---Picture of Modern Rufsia*
Ingria, J ulj, 1789.
I take my morning's walk in the gardens of the Palace of Strelina Myfa, now in ruins. Peter begun this palace, and his daughter, the Emprefs Elizabeth, continued the building, but died before it was finifhed. While I fit upon a broken column, a thoufand thoughts rufh into my mind. Peter meant to adorn the dreary fhores of the Finland Gulph leading to his capital, with imperial manfions. The palaces of Oranienbaum,  Peterhoff, and
Strelina,
Strelina, are evidently a part of this plan. The appearance of the oppofite fhore of Carelia, deftitute of fuch ornaments, fets off thofe improvements, in the light of contrail.
I can trace upon the banks of the river where I fifh, the outlines of gardens.— Wherever I fee a llreight avenue, I know that Peter has been here, and has cut fome of the trees formerly growing where I now walk, with his own hand. You may ea-fily imagine that I feel myfelf a foot higher, in walking in a path which has been cleared for me by an Emperor ! I am attached to Ruffia and to Ruffians—not from any fuperior excellence in the natives : they are loaded with vices, as much as their other brothers of Europe, but becaufe they are the children of Peter I. As a proof of my friendfiiip for them, I will tell them freely of their faults. Peter did every thing with the axe and the fword—they were his only inflruments in war and in peace: he fixed himfelf upon the Throne Y with
with them : he conquered the fineft provinces of Sweden : he built and peopled his metropolis: he built and manned his navy: he effablifhed an Academy of Sciences with thefe towels, by feizing the library at Mittau :—all this as a warrior and legiflator. We wifh we had not to add, that unlike a father, he corrected his own children with them ! In the Academy there is a figure of Peter in wax: it would have been more characteriflic in iron. There is in the fame collection a bar of iron forged by his Majefty's own hand. This is a better remembrancer of him.—Yes, Peter! you manufactured o-ther articles in the iron branch, racks, wheels, and impalling hooks, with ftains upon them that time will not efface.
No am'rous Hero ever gave thee birth, Or ever tender Gotldefs brought thee forth: Some rugged rock's hard entrails gave you form, And raging feas produc'd you in a ftorm. A birth well fuiting thy tempeftuous kind, So rough thy manners, ■
P. H.
You
( m )
You fee I can rail at my favourite Prince. Great act ions mould notmake us forget the caufe of humanity; and however neceffary his feverities might be, yet they were too inhumanly dear a facrifice, even to procure the reformation of his people; which, perhaps, time might have accompliihed, without fo high a price of blood. Peter L was anxious to make his native kingdom a great nation : he was rendered miferable by their oppofition to his plans, their cabals and confpiracies againft him ; and in fits of defpair, or rather of madnefs, he did things unbecoming his character. The works of this Prince were of a folid and lafting nature. If he oppreffed his fub^ jecls, it was but for a time, and his object was, to bring them in the end peace and eafe. The event would foon prove the fterling value of his plans, did the Nobles and Gentry attend to the improvement of agriculture, and ceafe to copy the extravagant follies of the reft of Europe, at lead until their country be in the fame ftate of improvement. The revenues of Y 2 the
the Ruffian Nobles and Gentlemen, as they now are, could fupport all their ancient grandeur: but were their incomes ten times greater than at prefent, they would not anfwer the demands of modern extravagance. The ancient robes, covered with gold and filver, were but one ex-pence to a family for generations : they were delivered from the father to the fon with the eflate. An heir of thefe days would laugh at his father for fuch a legacy. The monffer, Fafhion, created for a fcourge to mankind, has occafioned every evil which infects the age: inconftancy in drefs and diet, have, befides the daily and weekly renewing of expence, foffered the fame inconflancy in our minds and actions. If the common people of Ruffia would only part with their beards I fhould be happy to find them perfifting in their fim-plicity of drefs : nor have I much objection even to the beard, if it were not an enemy to cleanlmefs. It is not fo much Rufiia that requires fumptuary laws; all claffes  in  other European nations are
plunged
plunged in mifery by modern expences, which lay them open to conduct unworthy of men. Were the legillators of Europe to make fumptuary laws, and inforce their obedience, a greater reform would enfue than from any other laws whatever. Guftavus III. of Sweden has fliewn the worthy example, and his kingdoms will derive more advantages from thofe fumptuary laws, than from any war he can ever enter into.
Commercial nations will urge, that the confumption of the various articles of fafhion, employ a number of people: that changeability of fafhion, and love of distinction in fociety is the nurfery of arts, commerce, and all the improvements of life: this is fo far true—and the nurfery, too, of improvements in modern crimes and vices. Ifextravagance and fafhion nourifh crimes while they nourifh commerce—if an equal number of people are rendered miferable, to thofe who are employed and maintained by them—might it not be prudent to Y 3 check
check what is allowed, even by the advocates of fafhion, to be the origin of thefe evils ? Might it not be prudent to look around us, and endeavour to find out fome lefs dangerous fupports for commerce, and for the people ?
When agriculture has increafed and arrived at fuch perfection, that nothing more can be expected from it in regard to commerce j and when there are people which agriculture and its productions cannot employ in ufeful and elegant manufactures, then, and then only, it might be proper to employ the people in whatever manufactures might tend to this pur-pofe: but, until this period arrives, it is furely wrong to augment our commerce by luxury and vice, which, at leafl fhould only be our laft refource. Let us firft try how far commerce can be augmented and fupported by induflry, which does not depend upon vice, before we adopt vices and luxury as the fole pillars of the induflry and profperity of mankind. Commerce fhould certainly be looked upon as in its
zenith,
zenith, when all the people are fully employed and comfortably provided for: thofe advocates for commerce who do not flop here, will flop no where. China holds up an illuflrious picture, how far agriculture and the productions of agriculture are capable of employing myriads of people, independent of foreign commerce. Let us improve upon this plan and example, and reject only fuch articles of foreign commerce as do not employ our own manufacturers : or let commerce and manufactures remain entirely free, and the vices and extravagancies of the wealthy have full play as ufual. I fhall only propofe one fumptuary law to prevent the private vices of the rich from infecting the Public, by at firft recommending, and gradually in-forcing a national drefs. I efteem drefs the principal origin of luxury and vice. The higher ranks only can indulge in various other expences, but every clafs is ruined by the little ambition for drefs—in every perfon's eye, and more or lefs in every perfon's reach. A national drefs would Y 4 foon
foon be followed by numberlefs benefits. Many of the lower, and nearly all of the middling claffts of the people would fave one-fourth part of their prefent incomes : their families would be better maintained and more independent. Fewer crimes would be committed. It is not fo much againfl great crimes or expences we have to guard; mankind, naturally, of themfelves fhrink at both. There is an ceconomy as well as innocence in nature. It is againfl thofe deluding eafy Heps that lead to crimes, to luxury and ruin, that our attention ought to be directed. It is not fo much againfl thofe vices and luxuries which men commit and indulge in private, as againfl thofe public follies that draw them imperceptibly to private receffes!
Our commerce will equally flourifh, not-withftanding this fumptuary law, or at wor/i, be only lopped of fome rotten though gilded branches. Let our Merchants and Manufacturers import and export whatever they can find fale for, and if they do
not
not find fale at laft for ingenious, ufelefs commodities, they will be under the ne-ceflity of getting rich in a more reafonable manner. Jncreafed agriculture will increafe population, which will find additional, though perhaps not new employment to our Merchants and Manufacturers.
With refpect to the Fine Arts, this fumptuary law can in no-way prevent their increafing perfection ; but on the contrary. I can neither agree that private vices are public benefits, or that Fafhion is the fource of rational improvement, fince daily examples fhew us, that tafte, as well as virtue is frequently excluded by Fafhion. The higher ranks of the nation, while they exhauft their fortunes, for the benefit of many, that many becoming rich, become vicious likewife, by the example of their employers. I will aik, what arts have been improved by Fafhion ? Not Architecture, nor Painting, nor Sculpture, nor Hiftory, nor Poetry 5 becaufe the profei-
fors
fors of thofe arts, are the moft celebrated who model after the Ancients, aflifted by native tafte and genius. The arts which have improved under the patronage of Fafhion, are embroidering patterns for drefs: the method of manufacturing cloth fo as to ftarve the wearers; hair-powder, pomatums, wafhes, and innumerable other articles, which no doubt give employment to numbers. The manufacture of necef-fary articles might nearly employ an equal number of people, feeing that many un-neceffary manufactures are often fubfti-tuted for the others. The remainder would find abundant employment in the cultivation of watte lands, which are very exten-five, even in the Ifland of Britain. But as numbers have learned to lean upon our vices for fubfiftence, no rapid change is recommended—let the people be gradually taught to lean upon our virtues.
fafhion diverts the channel of wealth, to the nurture of every frivolous art, and from the roots of real induftry and elegance.
gance. The profeflbrs of the elegant arts find them the leafl lucrative. The en-thufiafm, ever attendant on genius, keeps them in exiftence, not the powerful patronage they experience. The wealth of individuals is devoted to riot and folly; the wealth of nations, exhauffed by their
Princes, in fchemes of wild ambition--.
Genius and arts find no encouragement, unlets they proftitute themfelves, to pleafe and flatter a vitiated race: and that they are now finding increafed encouragement, is, I am afraid, no proof of their improvement, of the tafte of the age, or of the benefits derived from luxury or fafhion. Modern nations have examples, from the hiftories of remote ages, and of mighty empires, what fort of benefits were derived from private vices! Private vices multiplied by contagious example j all became vicious and effeminate, and their empires tumbled in ruins. From thofe ruins, not only our Architects and Painters are taught, but the Prince and the Philofo-pher,
I con-
I confider Ruflia as an immenfe land-fcape, in the fore-ground of which appears the ftatue of Peter the Great, and the living figure of Catherine II. Immediately around is that fmall affembly of the nation, which their joint efforts have brought forward into life, and to civilization. I am offended at their gaudy fliow and decorations : they form a contrail, degrading to that multitude of peafantry which I fee behind them, among the woods, and upon the plains, cloathed in the coarfeft fkins of beads, ignorant of arts and fciences. Do the higher ranks wifh to invite the mob to come forward, by that glitter of gold and filver upon their veffments, the elegance of their carriages, and their fuperb palaces ? Do they wifh the boors to quit the vices of ignorance, and adopt the vices of luxury in their place ?   Would it not be as well, if their Lords would fliow them an example of induflry and ceconomy j and at firft, by training a few peafants upon their feveral eftates, as farmers, fpread the ardour for ufeful knowledge ?   It might
be
be time enough, too, when their revenues are increafed by induflry, to reap the fruits of it; and the fruits of induflry are fimple elegance; not vicious eafe, nor the indulgence of vicious paflions.   The Nobles will do well to take the example from that Emperor, whofe name they glory in, and give it to their peafants. Catherine IE has done wrong in admitting too much finery into her fyftem of civilization. Peter taught only the more vulgar, but more ufeful arts to a nation in the firfl ftage of fociety.   It is not the bed way to obtain a hearing of the great, to inform them of their faults; yet, if I had an opportunity of fpeaking to Her Imperial Majefty, I would demonftrate the ill confequences of luxurious habits; and that it will require a longer ftruggle to bring back the Nobility, than it will to bring forward the reft of her fubjecls to the ftate they ought to be in.   The talk of Peter I. was eafy, in comparifon with what any attempts of the Kings of many European nations would be, to prevail with the higher ranks
of
of fhe people to relinquifh their effeminacy. To reform barbarians, is only to work in parte rather hard j but to reform luxury, is to cure a leper. While Catherine II. is the patron of every folid improvement in arts, agriculture, and commerce, empty (how and idle magnificence are not checked*
LETTER XXXIIL
The Arrival of a Rufsian Regiment from Qdf-zakow at Petersburg, under the Command of an Englifh Officer—Anecdotes of one of the young Grand Dukes—Of Princefs Naffau—Of Captain Bentinck, of the Bri-
tifli Navy----Of a Portuguefe Colonel—
Of Lord Wycombe, Mr. Howard, and his Excellency Mr. Whitworth.
Ingria, July, 1789.
At two o'clock this morning, while ftill filence reigned, or was difturbed only by the milling leaves of trees, my ears were fuddenly ftruck with martial mufic. As the public way leads by the river, on the banks of which 1 flrayed with my fifliing-rod, I foon perceived a regiment of foldiers, upon taeir march to the capital. It
has
has come from Oczakow, and Is commanded by an Englifhman. I left off work, and marched along with them, making inquiries at the Officers of their adventures in the land of Mahomet. This regiment had fuffered much in the attack of that city. It confiff s of a very fine body of men :— they were all drefled in white jackets, and trowfers of linen, for the conveniency of marching in fuch fultry weather. Colonel Fanfhaw arrived fome days fince, with his family. His little fon, a boy not exceeding ten years of age, has already bled in the field of Mars ■ he was wounded at the fiege of Oczakow, at an earlier period than when Alexander mounted firft his war horfe, orCharles XII. of Sweden had heard
the glorious whiffle of a cannon ball--
This young hero has been nurfed in the mouth of a cannon: his father takes him with him in all his expeditions. The Eagle teaches her brood to fly in the face of the fun, to accuftom their eyes to bear its fierceft beams.
At
At the poft-houfe, people of every nation arrive daily. I mix with the croud, to gain intelligence. Three fmart French wenches came lately from Cronftadt, at* tended by their gallant, Monfieur le Ca-pitaine de Flotte: one of them came clofe up to me, finging very prettily. " Monfieur," faid fhe—<c Is there no chaife to be had r
lt No, Madam,** replied I, " there is no ,£ other fort than what you fee in the yard; " travellers in this country generally make " ufe of fuch." They were fmall waggons, filled with ftraw. There was ho help for it. " Mon Dieu 1" faid the girl, and directly jumped into the vehicle, reclining her handfome perfon among the litter. So the three French Filles de Chambre, and Monfieur le Capitaine, packed into two ftraw bafkets, made their triumphal entry into Peteriburg.
With what good grace and good nature do thefe French accommodate themfelves Z to
to every circumftance of life; while we, fulky Britons, growl at froward Fortune, and are aukward in all our motions! Foreigners fmile when they fee a plain honefl Englifhman make a bow in a wrong place, or more commonly at his not making a bow at all. We never yet could acquit ourfelves at the foot and hat exercife!
One of the young Grand Dukes, a youth about nine years of age, feeing a Naval Officer palling through fome of the apartments of the palace, alked who it was ?-«• His Highnefs being told it was an Englifli Officer of the Ruffian fleet, and a brother to a lady who has the care of the young Princeffes, went to the lady to inquire about her brother.   " This was your bro-" ther," faid the Prince, " and an Englifh-<{ man ? Is he a real genuine Briton ?— " Does he appear frightened when he en-" ters a room where there is any company ? cc Is he at a lofs where to put his hat, " when he is fo polite as to take it off?" The lady affured his Highnefs, " that her " brother was, in every refpecT:, a true « Englifhman."
The
The Princefs NafTau has arrived at Peteriburg. The young Princefs arrived foon afterwards, and lodged at the poft-houfe for one night. She is a beautiful young creature. When fhe arrived at the houfe, fhe ordered, as is ufual for travellers of rank when they flop, her bed from the carriage: it was fpread upon the floor of the parlour, and the Princefs, fatigued with her long journey, lay down to repofe at two o'clock in the afternoon. The windows of the parlour had no curtains nor mutters; fo, when I imagined the lady would be aileep, I repaired to the window, and taking my pencil, attempted to pour-tray a woman aileep, when they are faid to be moff lovely, and leaft noify! Prince Naffau has already gained an important victory over the Swedifh galleys. The good fortune of this hero, under the Ruffian banner, continues. Intelligence of this victory is juft arrived, but I am not yet ' informed of the particulars.
Two Captains of the Britifh Navy entered my room laft night, in fearch of a Z 2 bed.
bed. They had come from Revel, where they had arrived from Denmark in a fmall open boat, and vifited the Swedifh and Ruffian Navy, in their paffage. This is making very little of the dangerous navigation of the Baltic, notwithftanding this is the finefl feafon of the year. The Baltic is, however, liable to ftorms at all feafons, and thefe gentlemen encountered one, which had nearly put an end to their voyage. Captain Bentinck is the name of one of the gentlemen: I forget the name of the other. A Portuguefe Colonel is arrived here likewife, from Revel and Stockholm. The Colonel informed me, that he had made application to His Swedifh Majefty for permiffion to go by way of Swedifh Finland, the feat of war : but this was refufed, leaft fome accident mould befall him in a journey through two hof-tile armies. He is a gentleman, I under-ftand, of great property in the Ifland of Madeira. At the expiration of his travels, he marries the young daughter of the
Chevalier
Chevalier de Pinto, late AmbafTador to the Court of London from Portugal, and now-Prime Minifter of that kingdom. The Colonel fpeaks Englifh very well: he informed me, that he had refided in London fome years, and he fpoke in raptures of our nation, making comparifons between it and the countries through which he had travelled. " But money/' faid the Colo-" nel, " is more neceffary in England than " in other parts: it is true, one obtains " for their cafh every luxury and conve-*' niency, which cannot be had in other " countries, in the fame ftyle, even for " money."
Lord Wycombe, accompanied by Capt. Markham, has paffed for the Ruffian metropolis. Ruffia begins now to make a part of the grand tour, and not the leaft curious or ufeful part of it. Mr. Howard is arrived at Peteriburg, upon a tour of a different kind from every other—to pom-oil and honey into the wounds of the unfortunate. His Excellency Mr. Whitworth, Z 3 with
with his Secretary, Mr. Frazer, were here to-day, and played together at Billiards. Mr. Whitworth refides within two miles of the poft-houfe, at the country palace of Count Saltikoff, which he has for himfelf and fuit during the Summer.
Our Ambaffador is much and deferved-ly refpecled, notwithftanding the unaccountable breach between the two Courts of London and Peteriburg. I call it unaccountable, becaufe, in general, Courts that have been long in the habits of inter-courfe and friendfhip, do not in ordinary fall out where there is no oppofition of intereft: much lefs when peace and friendship are the intereft of both parties.
. LETTER XXXIV.
Summer Amufements in the Metropolis.----
The Imperial Family-*—The Public enter~ tained at Count Strogonoffs Gardens.
St. Peteriburg, Auguft, 1789.
FrOM my retirement, amidft woods and lakes, I have, after an abfence of three months, returned to Peteriburg. The city is ftill deferted by the Nobility and Gentry, who will not return from their country refidence for fome time, as the feafon coutinues remarkably pleafant, and it is feldom they enjoy fuch weather in Auguft.
Her Imperial Majefty is arrived in the city from the Palace of Zarfko Zelo, for Z 4 the
the Winter. A very numerous cavalcade attended her Majefty : the whole preceded by a party of Huffar Guards. Catherine flopped at the Cafan Church: Te Deum was fung for the victories obtained over the enemies of the Empire. I flood very near this great Sovereign, and could not help noticing, that the pictures given of Catherine II. in fome books of Travels, bear no refemblance to the original
Catherine II. is of a middle ftature; rather corpulent in her perfon;—majeftic in her deportment.   This Emprefs has not only the art of appearing, but poffelfes the quality of being great. She feldom comes into public, even to the Theatre. The Spread Eagle over the empty box, facing the flage, points out where once her Majefty fat, and feems to point out too, that the bird is flown.   The imperial palace in the city, and at Zarfko Zelo, have each of them private theatres for the entertainment of the Court, and others, who have intereft enough to procure tickets, which are given
ven gratis. The Grand Duke, Paul Pe-trowitfch, is handfome in perfon, of a middle ftature j and has fomething greatly good in his countenance. The Grand Dutchefs is majeftic both in her perfon and manner. The young Imperial Family are a group of lovely angels.
It is only within thefe few days that I have had any opportunity of obferving the Ruffian divcrfions in town during the Summer. I find the citizens crouding every evening into the gardens of the Summer Palace upon the banks of the Neva. They are the St. James's Park of the Ruffians, and at this time a very delightful parade. Early this Summer I entered them for the firft time, and in walking through one of the bird-cage avenues, I met the Bafhaw of Oczakow, attended by feveral Turkifh Officers. I ftepped afide, and viewed with refpect this illuftrious prifoner; one of the guardians of the Cre-fcent.   He is treated here with a polite-
nefs
nefs and attention due to his fidelity and courage, more than to his rank.
The garden belonging to the Cadet Corps is another refort for the better clafs of the inhabitants upon Sunday. Military mufic falutes the company from different parts of the gardens.  This feafon provided a new military concert.   In the wooden building erected in the mid ft of a fmall piece of water, a band of Turkifh performers were placed.    Was it fair to make the fons of Mahomet fiddlers to infidel conquerors ?    Thefe late drummers and fifers to the garrifon at Oczakow, gave the Ruffians a moft melancholy and grating tune for their pains.   The Turks beat a fort of drum with one flick, and made a fort of whiffle produce melodies, refem-bling the notes of a young pig, when its ears are fharply pinched.    The Ruffian drum and fife, the bafoon and clarionet, relieved at intervals my organs, and brought into order my fenfe of hearing, which was diffracted with the Ottoman Oratorio.
The
The young Cadets, dreiTed in white or brown, agreeable to their ages, walked round the gardens, preceded by their Matters—the youngeit clafs, by the women of the nurfery.   Parties of the oldeft are encamped in the environs of the city, during Summer, where they are taught their ex-ercifes, and particularly the management of the artillery.   Hence, it has been long obferved of the Ruffian army, that it is the bed ferved in the world with artillery, and artillery Officers and Engineers.   Peter I. carried always a moveable fortrefs with his army : at the battle of Pultowa he had eighty cannon: the Swedes had four or fix field-pieces.
The Ruffians take as much delight in the firing of guns, as they do in ringing of bells. Artillery, in Summer, makes a part of rural entertainments. I was yefferday at one of the Summer Carnivals given by the Nobility to the Public. Count Strogonoff's villa and gardens arepleafantly fituated, on one of the iflands at the mouth
of
of the Neva, and bordering on this river. Here were collected a very great concourfe of people of all ranks. In the front gallery of the Count's houfe were a chofen band of vocal and instrumental performers: the firft confifted chiefly of boys and girls.— As we walked in the forefts adjoining to the houfe, we were ferenaded with favourite Ruffian airs. Dukes, Generals, Admirals, Traders, and Boors, mixed together. The tents, erected among the trees, received thofe guefts, who conceived, with Sancho Pancha, that eating and drinking is the beft part of all earthly enjoyments. I could fee a felect company of Germans, fnugly feated; their ears attentive to the mufic— their eyes to fome flices of ham, which the Matter of the hotel was cutting for them.
Under a wooden pavillion, open at the fides, thofe who chufe to exercife their limbs, had a room railed in for dancing, and a band of muficians. Here the ladies of eafy virtue, and the virtuous maiden,
dreffed
draffed in her Sunday gown, tripped about; to the great entertainment of the titled fpectators. Few join in this affembly befides the lower ranks; but the outride of the rail was crouded with ladies and gentlemen of the firft diftinction.
A fky-rocket gave notice that the fireworks were begun.   The affembly broke up : the fiddlers and the dancers crouded together through the woods, to the open area before Count Stogonoff '$ villa. Avery entertaining Greenwich Park fcene, too, was exhibited, when Beaux and Belles, amidft a difplay of various fireworks, endeavoured, in tumultuous throngs, to ef-cape the falling fire-balls.   The Count's windows and galleries accommodated his vifitors of quality, among whom were dif-tributed the good things of this life. The Count has a great property, in iron mines, from which he derives a liberal income, and which he fpends with equal liberality. This evening's amufement concluded with
age-
a general dlfcharge of the cannon from a battery upon the banks of the Neva.
The company now filed off towards Peteriburg, fome in coaches, others in trof-kies, which convey half a dozen or a dozen people. The foreft echoed with the found of wheels and fongs. Several Ruffians had devoted the day to Bacchus, and were finging his praifes, with all the ffrength they had remaining. Their drunken fongs are fung in a different ffrain from their fober ditties, though the words and air may be the fame. In the former, you hear a continued roar, for fome moments, or minutes, as their breath may hold out; filence then fucceeds for the fame length of time, until they have recovered breath. When a drunken Ruffian has finifhed his firft ftanza and his breath, he refts his head upon his moulders, gaping for a frefh fupply of tether : he recovers gradually, as from a fainting fit, and joins again the grand chorus of his friends. He who firft recovers wind begins, and
the
the reft inflantly accompany him, with what breath they have gathered. Many fall off from the trofky before the journey is ended; but the fong is not interrupted by thefe trifling accidents: there is always one or two in their feats, who keep the mufic alive: the driver flops the carriage, until his proftrate brothers replace themfelves, but continues his fong. Even the unfortunate, while they lie upon their back in the road, do not ceafe to perform their talks in the concert.
In the Summer evenings, when the weather is calm, the citizens of Peterfburg delight in failing upon the Neva in their pleafure boats. The boats of the Nobility are very elegantly ornamented. The company are feated in the flern, under a canopy of filk, or other fluff, and have with them muficians, or frequently the party themfelves perform upon different u fru-ments. The rowers are all choien among fuch of their fewants as have the beft voices, and either ring in concert with the
in-
Inftruments, or without them. Wheii they have rowed the boat againfl the jtream, beating time to their fongs with the oars, they allow her to drive with the current, fixing their oars in a horizontal pofition from the boat's fides i and the rowers collect: in a circle. It is at this period they exert their vocal powers, and make fuch exquifite harmony, as to draw the inhabitants to the galleries of their houfes upon the river's banks, and the foot paffcngers to the water's edge, to lifleit to the mufic; and many follow the boat, to enjoy their native tunes. The vocal and inflrumental parts are generally performed alternately, and among the former is always one, who, with a whittle, or, by blowing upon his fingers, makes a very fhrill noife, accompanying the mufic at intervals. When the concert is ended, the audience upon the ftreets go away, repeating the fongs, and echoing them into every quarter of the city. Perhaps another boat, conveying another concert,
cert approaches, and arrcits the auditors of the firft melodies-.
Thefe concerts often continue to ten and eleven o'clock at night, and when ftill filence reigns upon the face of the waters, it is beyond the power of defcription to convey any idea of the pleafing effect they have upon the mind.
Thus we fpend the flowery months in Ruffia, notwithstanding war's alarms.
Aa
LETTER XXXV.
Rufsian Climate----A Rufsian Wedding—*
Anecdote of an old Rufsian Soldier—Of a Band of Gypfes.
Ingiia, Sept. 1789.
The feafon ftill continues remarkably mild and pleafant. If this good weather continue a little longer, I lhall alter my opinion of the Ruffian climate. This laft Summer has made us amends for the fevere Winter of 1788-89. Ever fmce the middle of April, it has been hot and clear weather, without interruption, and without being accompanied with fo much thunder as we might have naturally expected. The Gnats, or Mufquitos, only venture abroad now in the day-time -y the evening, when the fun is down, turns cold, and the month faft approaches when thefe plagues
of man and beaft will be frozen for nins months. The Gnat is fucceeded in the bufinefs of tormenting animals, by the common Fly. It is chiefly in June and July that the Gnat is troublefome : the common Fly bites in Auguft and September. The fting of the Gnat is hardly felt while they remain fixed upon your hands or legs; the pain is occafioned by the fwelling afterwards. When the Gnat is fixed, it is better to allow it to take its belly full of blood, and go away. If it is killed upon the fpot, fome part of the pro-bofcis frequently remains in the wound, and. caufes more acute pains than would be felt otherwife. Rubbing the wound likewife augments the torture. The Ruffian Gentlemen generally wear thin leather ftockings Under their filk ones, to defend them from thofe winged warriors. The bite of the common Fly is inftantly attended with a lharp pain, but without any fwelling. I dread them much more than I do the Gnats, whofe wounds I can cure, without A a 2 feeling
feeling uneafinefs, by directly applying fome lemon-juice, when the plunderer has left me. I wear Indian mufquito trowfers, which are preferable to ftockings of leather, not being fo warm.
The Nobility have all gone into town, though a country refidence is more delightful juft now than at any time during the fultry months. But the Ruffian Almanacs have, no doubt, fixed the entry of froft and fnow in September, and the Gentry will not truft in the flattering appearance of their fkies.
I am a whimfical Briton, and have come again to vifit woods and rivers, while the fun fhines, and to enjoy the fragments of a Ruffian Summer, which the great folks defpife.
I am told the Winter comes, in the latitude of Peterfburg, with awful rapidity ; and that you take farewel of Summer at night, and hail the grim tyrant in the
morn-
morning, who thunders around in a whirlwind, thickened with fnow and icicles.—. Let him come ! I muft fee it and feel it; nor will I retreat, even before a Scythian Winter. Cronftadt is yet filled with Britifh fhips, which have a long ftormy voyage to perform, before they can anchor upon their native fhores. I have only two hours journey to go into the city, and into fhelter. The Britifh Shipmafters call at the houfe I lodge at, in their way from Cronftadt to Peterfburg, as they generally come over land, after paffing from Cronftadt to Oranienbaum, There are now feveral of them in the parlour, making merry. I tell them to haften their departure—mention the dangers of a late paffage home—and prefs upon their recollection the rifk of having their veffels frozen in the harbour of Cronftadt. In reply, they call for another bottle, taking notice of the late period at which they had failed from Ruffia in former years.
We have a wedding in the poft-houfe; the Shipmafters take a peep at the bride, A a 3 and
and fwear that fhe is a good piece ; adding many fea phrafes illuflrative of her beauties, and of the happinefs of the bridegroom. The bride is the daughter of one of the Officers of the Ports, the bridegroom is a Chorifter from one of the churches at St. Peterfburg.
I went with the company to the Church of St. Sergius, to behold the Ruffian ceremonies, at the altar of Hymen. The young couple kiffed every Saint within the walls, crofting themfelves oppofite to each. The Prieft having made feveral geflures and grimaces, joined their hands and kiffed them. This was the fignal for an uni-verfal attack upon the lips of all prefent. I hid myfelf in a corner, in order to avoid the difagreeable encounter of long beards: however, I foon recollected there was no occafion for this precaution. The Ruffians permit foreigners to behold every religious ceremony without demanding any outward refpect or attention, either to Prieft or People, further, than remaining
uncovered
Uncovered and fdent. The bride, from the time me had yielded confent, to the day of her nuptials, was attended in her hut by two fuch virgins as herfelf, who continued ringing with her from morning to night for two or three weeks. If lhe paid -a vifit in the neighbourhood, the attendant nymphs, finging as they went along, accompanied her. The bride's acquaintance, male and female, enter the hut during this feflival, making what prefents they are able to beftow, and in return they are at liberty to kifs the bride and bride-maids, who entertain them with fongs into the bargain. Our Cook, in the courfe of his vifits, has fallen a facrifice to the blue eyes of one of the bride-maids j but fhe piques herfelf upon her family connections, and has refufed the poor fellow : fhe fays, fhe is the Emprefs's flave, and that the Cook is only the flave of a private gentleman \
The wedding folks at their return from church, affembled in one of the rooms of A a 4 the-
the Poft-Houfe, and Apollo and Daphne, of whom I have formerly made honourable mention, performed upon this, as they ufually do upon every great occafion. The bridegroom taking his bride by the hand, led the dance. This ended, he entertained us with his fongs: and it is but juftice to fay, that he fung like a Nightingale.
It was formerly a cuftom in Ruffia, nor has it yet become wholly obfolete, for the friends of the young couple, foon after they had retired to reft, to inquire if the marriage articles were completely ratified. I do not know whether or not this queftion was afked upon the prefent occafion. The bride of herfelf declared, next morning, with the tear in her eye, that fhe had been cheated 1 and that her hufband was good for nothing but for finging hymns. The bridegroom looked very filly. A Monk, his acquaintance, who came with the cho-rifter from Peterfburg, declared, that he was a very good kind of a man, and that
he had lent him thirty rubles to bear the expence of the wedding dinner. The Fathers have, perhaps, fent abroad this Syren to charm a few birds into their net!
The watchman at the Pott-Office, is an old foldier of 80 years of age. He tells us of the engagements in which he had fought, in the war with Pruftia, in the reign of the Emprefs Elizabeth. This veteran was lately found in the wood, in amorous dalliance with the Gardener's wife, whom he had debauched from the paths of virtue with a bottle of Ruffian brandy. The other fervants dogged the turtles to their neft, ftripped the fheep-fkin from the warrior's back, carried it to the nearefl Spirit-Shop, and pawned it for brandy 5 to which mulct, offenders againff the laws of chaftity, a-mong the rural nymphs and twains, are liable in Ruflia.
In my walks, a few days ago, I encountered with a band of Gypfies, the firft I had feen in this country. The females, as
ufual,
izfual, offered for a fmall gratuity, to fcan the fecrets of fate and futurity. There were feveral beautiful girls journeying bare-footed with the Caravan, an itinerant Beggar's Opera. I had feen a party of this fquadron at fome diflance, at the window of a Finlander's hut, and heard them ear-neflly intreating the landlady to give them bread and fait. The landlady remained obdurate, and the prayers of the Gypfies were changed into curfes. I entered the fame hut, and procured fome milk. The woman of the houfe told me that fhe was daily plagued with thofe people ; that file gave them fometimes bread in Summer; but that the long Winter was now approaching, and, having a large family, fhe could not fpare any thing from her ftore of provifions.
LETTER XXXVI.
Naval Campaign, 1789—Naval Engagement of the Rufsian and Swedifh Galley Fleets—Of the Rufsian and Swedifh Grand Fleets in the Baltic—Expedition of a Squadron of the Rufsian Fleet, under Captain Treve?ien, an Englifli Officer, to the Coaft of Swedifh Finland—Folly of the Northern Powers in keeping fuch large Fleets— Campaign in Finland.
St. Peterfburg, Jan. J790.
I would, before this time, have given you fome account of the battles between Ruffia and Sweden, in the courfe of laft Summer; but as there have been none, I found it difficult to draw up a hiftory of them. As I cannot, therefore, give an account of what the warring hofts have done,
I will
I will endeavour to entertain you with a narrative of what they have not done.
Prince-Nalfau arrived in April laft, to take upon him the command of the Ruffian galley fleet. I was prefent at the launching of a number of galleys and xebecs at Peteriburg, which formed a part of this flotilla. They failed for the mouth of the river Kymen, where the Swedifh galleys had retired, being much inferior in both number and force,
The Swedifh veffels lay near to the river, defended from the fea by numerous fmall iflands, betwixt whom there were only two narrow paffages for the Ruffians to enter.
Prince Naffau and the Chevalier de Lit-ta, a Knight of Malta, led on the grand divifion of the Ruffian galleys and gunboats, by one of the paffages f and M. Bally, a Ruffian Officer, a fmall fquadron of frigates and xebecs, by the other. M, Bally having arrived at his ftation before
the
(  &S )
the Prince's fquadron, whofe number retarded their motion in thofe intricate channels, began, at once, the attack upon the whole Swedifh fleet, without waiting for his Admiral.   The confequence was, that Bally's fhips were nearly fhattered to pieces, and two-thirds of his men  killed or wounded. Captain Hay, a Britifh Officer in this divifion, was ordered to found the channel, as the frigates advanced upon the enemy.   Pie was cut off, with all his crew, being fingly expofed, at times, to the fire of the whole Swedifh fleet, and within mufquet fhot.   Captain Green, another Britifh Officer, was killed early in this bloody engagement.
So foon as Prince Naffau's fquadron appeared, the conflict ceafed. The Swedifh flotilla retired into the river Kymen: feveral of their veffels getting aground, were burnt or taken by the Ruffians, and a con-fiderable number of prifoners taken. The Swedifh galleys continued for the reft of the Summer in their retreat, whither the Ruffian flotilla could not purfue them.
The
The Ruffian grand fleet failed from Cronitadt and Revel, in June, under the command of Admiral Tfchitfchagow.—i They continued for fome weeks cruizing in the Gulph of Finland, probably expecting that the Swedifh fleet, who were greatly fuperior in force, would venture to attack them. The Duke of Sudermania, and Admiral Tfchitfchagow, had each a capital part to play.   The Ruffian fhips of war, built at the port of Archangel, had been brought to Copenhagen, confiiting of eight fhips of the line, to join the grand fleet in the Finland Gulph, conliffing of feventeen fhips of the line.   The Swedifh fleet, which contained about twenty-one fhips of the line and fome frigates, were cruizing in the Baltic, anxioufly endeavouring to prevent the junction of the Ruffians, a ad to bring one or the other divifion of their fleet to an engagement, feparately.   Tfchitfchagow, finding that the Duke of Sudermania had no intention of quitting his advantageous fituation, re-folved, or was ordered by his Sovereign,
to
t
to run all rifks in attempting to form a junction with the fquadron at Copenhagen, without which the Swedes muft have remained matters of thofe feas.
The Ruffian fleet had not long quitted the Gulph, when the Swedifh fhips were difcovered betwixt the iflands of* Gothland and Oeland, to windward. They bore down upon the Ruffian fleet, who waited for them in a line of battle. The van of the Ruffians kept their wind, and clofed with the enemy's van, and a fharp engagement enfued. A few fhips of the center divifions were likewife warmly engaged.— The Swedifh fhips had it, no doubt, in their power to come to clofe action with every part of the Ruffian fleet, who, tho* it was not their bufmefs to fight until they had joined their other fquadron, now waiting for them near the Ifland of Bornholm, yet remained in a line of battle, neither fhunning, nor eager to court this opportunity of fighting.
The
The Swedifh Vice-Admiral, LillehorfJ, is blamed for not bringing his divifion to clofe action: but as only the heddmoft fhips of the Swedes clofed with the enemy, furely this Admiral had not the command of all the others ? Only two of the center divifion of the Swedifh fleet came down into clofe action j and it is a pity that the two divifions who were not under the orders of Lillehorn did not fhew him a better example.
Admiral Greig, deferted by five of his Captains, failed in taking one-half of the Swedifh navy laft Summer.   The Swedes have, this campaign, by a behaviour fome-thing worfe than cowardice, made Ruffia amends, by not taking one-half of theirs. If individual Captains of a divifion refufe to obey, nothing more can be done, at the time: but certainly it is in the Commander in Chief's power to prevent the bad con-fequences of the mifconduct of any Admiral under him, by inftantly throwing out a fignal for each fhip of his fquadron.
Among
Among thofe brave Officers who gallantly clofed with the Swedes, was Captain Molofsky, natural fon of Count Tfcherni-chew, Firft Lord of the Admiralty of Ruffia. He had gone forward upon the booms, working with his own hands, and giving orders. A cannon fhot ftruck him acrofs the back: he fell, and with his laft breath intreated his Officers and men to fight the fhip until flie funk: then lifting his finger, Upon which was a ring, the dear pledge of love, he kiffed it, and expired I
The two fleets, after expending much
powder, ceafed firing in the evening.-
During the night the weather was calm, the fleets lying at a fhort diftance from each other: the wind, in the morning, altered their fituation from that of the day preceding. The Ruffian fleet were now to windward; and, as it was a leading breeze for their courfe to Bornholm, they formed the line, and offered the Swedes battle, who declined it. The wind again fhifted unfavourably to the Ruffians.— B b The
The Swedifh fleet bore down upon them. The Ruffian fleet, fleering for the Gulph of Finland, and chaced by the enemy. With a contrary wind, there remained no profpecT of the Ruffians forming a junction with the fquadron at Bornholm, while they had, at the fame time, a fuperior force oppofed to the attempt.   The wind changed again in favour of the Imperial fleet.   The Swedes fleered towards Carl-fcrone; the Ruffian fleet purfuing them, in their turn.   The Duke of Sudermania dreaded the approach to Bornholm : but His Royal Highnefs might have feverely drubbed his enemy, before their arrival > and it was furely time enough to fly, when the other hoflile fhips were in fight. Probably the Duke had fmall dependance upon the fidelity of his Officers.   The Ruffian fleet continued their courfe to Bornholm, and foon difcovered their fquadron from Archangel, who, miflaking their friends for the Swedes, were fhy in their approach, until a cutter from Admiral Tfchitfchagow informed them of his arrival.
rival. The Swedifh navy having gone into Carlfcrone, the Ruffians returned to the Gulph of Finland, now the decided Rulers of the northern feas.
In the courfe of this Summer, Captain Trevenen, who had the command of a fmall fquadron in the Gulph, for the pur-pofe of intercepting the fupplies to the Swedifh army and galleys, attacked a Swedifh fort, which commanded that part of the coaft of Finland, which rendered the communication to and from Sweden the more eafy. The fhips of war, and leffer veffels, had to pafs through a narrow channel, leading to the fort, and defended by batteries on each fide, from which the enemy fired red-hot balls. One of thefe balls lodged near the powder magazine of a Ruffian fhip of the line. The Ruffian Captain, whofe name I have forgot, boldly cut his way, with a hatchet, to the place where the ball was lodged, and where the flames and fmoke were already fpreading, and, with the utmoft danger to himfelf, B b 2 faved
laved his fhip and crew from inftant de-ff rucf ion. The ball was removed, and the flames providentially cxtinguiflicd. The batteries being filenced, the troops were landed, and the fortrefs furrendered. A garrifon of 240 men were placed in it.
Not many days fucceeding this event, the Swedes, alarmed at the lofs of a place of fuch confequence, fent with furprizing alacrity, a body of troops to re-take this poft. The Ruffian garrifon little expecting fo fuddenan attack, were fuprized; the fort was taken by ftorm, and the garrifon put to the fword. This attack was fo fudden, that Commodore Trevenen had no time to fend any affiftance, and remained with his Officers and crews fpectators of the dreadful fcene. The Ruffian fquadron kept tip a well-directed fire, but as friends and foes were fo mixed in fight, they could not fire upon the fortrefs itfelf. An Officer who gave me this account, trembled while he defcribed the fhrieks of the wounded and maffacred garrifon, which
were
were diftinclly heard on board the fleet. The Swedes cruelly tolled over the ramparts the wounded and dying ; and when they had finifhed the work of death, they paraded in fight of the Ruffian fquadron, whofe grape fhot, however, made them retreat precipitately, and mowed down a great number of them while retreating. Commodore Trevenen, during the attack of the fort, and the retreat of the enemy, placed himfelf in the top, with his glafs and trumpet, anxioufly viewing the engagement on fhore, and giving orders for the direction of the fhips fire, and altering thefe every moment as he faw the enemy change their pofition and the effect of the fire.
Captain Trevenen's fhip unfortunately was loft in the Gulph foon after this en-terprize. The Captain was writing dispatches for her Imperial Majefty in his cabin, when the fhip ftruck upon a funken rock. I have efcaped a fecond fhipwreck. I had applied early this year to Captain
B 3 Tie-
Trevenen to take me with him as a Volun* teer, wifhing, for once, to fee the horrors of war. The Captain apoligized to me, that his orders did not permit to take any Volunteers. Another fhip of the line, commanded by Captain Thefiger, a Britifh Officer, and a third, by a Ruffian Officer, were loft likewife this Summer, in navigating this dangerous fea. The north coaft of the Finland Gulph is interfperfed with an infinite number of fmall rocks, and many lie even in the middle channel, nearly, or altogether under water. The light-houfes, buoys, and flags are fo far ferviceable; but it is altogether impoffible to guard againft the innumerable rocks and banks. No fea is worfe calculated than the Baltic for the purpofes of navigation 3 and particularly for the navigating of large fleets: and yet the Ruffians and Swedes put themfelves to an incredible expence in equipping grand navies, when a flotilla of gun-boats would equally ferve to determine their refpective rights and powers.  They fhould mutually agree,
and
and in this agreement Denmark fhould be included, that' none of thefe nations fhall keep above a certain number of fmall frigates. Their flotillas may be extended to what number each is able to maintain. Such agreement would beft rait the local circumftanc'es of Ruflia, and alfo the revenues of Denmark and Sweden, which are exhaufted in Supporting a ufelefs fhow of Strength, and navies without an ocean.
The other Maritime States of Europe, have rich poffeffions to defend in the moft diftant quarters of the globe, which, afford too, revenues to build and maintain their fleets. Were the greateft European kingdom without fuch diftant colonies, they might be without fuch numerous navies. The three Northern Powers, had they occafion for fleets to defend the entrance to the Baltic from foreign navies, would have an apology for their armaments. But their fleets were never yet engaged in the Baltic, unlets with each other. They may truft, that no foreign veffel, traders excepted, B b 4 will
will ever be tempted to enter it: and if they mould, thofe Powers have only to put out their lights, and take up the flags and buoys, to prevent their entrance. The northern kingdoms have in their hands the belt fecurity againfl: the attack of foreign navies—they keep in their ware-houfes and merchants yards, the materials of which ail foreign navies are built.
What madnefs then urges Ruflia, Sweden, and Denmark to worry each other ? Nature, more than conqueff, has fixed their refpeclive boundaries. Denmark is furrounded by the fea: her province of Norway is feparated from Sweden by im-paffible mountains, which can be defended with a handful of men againfl: millions. Sweden, is feparated from Denmark, and Norway, by the fame kind of out-works, and from Ruffia, by the River Kymen, and her rocks and lakes, from which the Ruffian army, had it confilted of twenty times the number, could not have driven her troops.
Empires
Empires, like Individuals, have their family pride : Denmark boafts of her Fro-thos, her Canutes, and Waldemars; Sweden, of her Guftavus and Charles; and Ruffia, of her Ivans and Peter. Theyfeem to imagine, that they cannot keep their feveral kingdoms, but, by the fame means, by which their predeceffors obtained them: or, that it is abfolutely neceffary, for the honour of their anceftors, to keep their armour from ruffing.
The Baltic, highly improper for the navigating of large fleets, is calculated by nature for galleys and gun-boats $ and as the Northern Powers might keep a large armament of this kind, at lefs expence than they can five fail of the line, I would recommend at leaft ceconomyin war. They might equally enjoy the plea-fure of cutting one another in pieces: they feem to confider the Baltic as the Hall of Odin, and anticipate the delight which was only promifed to the Goths in the o-ther world.   The coafts of Sweden and
Finland
Finland, are fringed with myriads of fmall rocks and iflands, which afford fhelter behind them, from the more open fea, to fmall boats and veffels, and it is in fuch places that galley fleets are generally employed.
If the flotillas were to confiff entirely of gun-boats, or, if the galleys were dif-ufed, and fmall xebecs to accompany the gun-boats in their ftead, thefe coafting navies would act with more effect. The galleys are too good marks for the gunboats and batteries among the iflands, and being crouded with men, a dreadful flaugh-ter is the confequence when they come into clofe action. Upon the other hand, the xebecs would be equally capable of fecuring the retreat of the gun-boats, and nearly, if not better calculated, to act with them in every fituation. The only advantage that the galleys have over the xebecs, is, in being conftructed for rowing; but their difadvantages more than balance this
this
this excellence. Befides, the xebecs and light frigates can be towed into action, or from it, by the gun-boats, when neceffary.
The galleys have a magnificent fhow~-fohave fhips of the line—and for this fhow a facrifice is made of the lives of the fub-jects, with the revenues and profperity of the northern kingdoms.
The war in Finland, this campaign, prefents little to fatisfy the curiofity of thofe who pant after iron tempefls. The grand army of Ruffia, under the command of Count Muffin-Poufchkin, is encamped upon the eaftern banks of the river Ky-men; the Swedifh army, under General Hamilton, oppohtetothem, upon the well fide.
The Ruffians constructed fome bridges of boats acrofs this river, and feveral times marched over large bodies of troops, with a view of drawing the Swedes to a general engagement. This was at one time expected
peeled to take place; both armies left their encampments. The Imperial armymarched into Swedifh Finland, but the Swedifh army, though wiffiing likewife for a battle, continued to retreat before the Imperia-lifls, with a view of bringing them to action in difadvantageous ground. The Ruffian Commander, aware of their plan, re-crofled the Kymen with his army. Frequent fkirmifhes took place betwixt fmall detachments of Ruffian Coffacs and the Swedes. The former fucccfsfully fcoured the Finland woods, taking many prifoners. Thefe Coffacs very much harraffed the enemy, whofe troops were unaccuHomed to their manner of fighting. The Swedes armed part of their cavalry in the fame manner with the Coffacs, and dreffed them in the fame uniform, but they did not prove a match for the fudden attacks and retreats of the real natives of the Don.
The only remarkable engagements which happened this campaign, were between two confiderable detachments of the hof-
tile
tile armies. In the firft battle the King of Sweden was prefent as a Volunteer, and witneffed the defeat of the Ruffians. The fecond happened between a detachment of the Ruffian army, under General Mitchei-fon, and a body of Swedes, ffrongly polled near a village in Finland, for the defence of fome valuable magazines. The General is blamed for expofing his men, who were feverely handled in their attempt to ftorm the enemy's lines. It is faid, the Ruffian troops remonftrated with their Commander, who branded them with the name of cowards. The brave warriors, unable to bear this reproach, defired to be led to the muzzles of the enemy's cannon ! General Mitchelfon upon horfe-back, at the head of his men, faw them mowed down upon every fide. His horfe was fhot under him. The Ruffian General, when every hope of fuccefs had vanifhed, and a great number of men were killed, ordered a retreat. The Swedes were fo weakened by their defperate attack, that they retreated in the night.
General
General Mitchelfon, the Succeeding day* made a more fortunate attack upon the Swedifh town, taking 150 foldiers prifon-ers, and a great quantity of military Jtores. I made many inquiries after my old acquaintance, the Kirghis—and Balhkirs, The Finland rocks, as I had forefeen, prevented them from displaying their prowefs. They were employed therefore in dragging cannon and other works, derogatory to their former glory. I am at a lofs to guefs what fort of laurels they can obtain in their prefent employments, to carry back to the plains of Scythia. I feel for the difgrace of the children of our anceitors. So much for modern arts of war, and. Finland precipices 1
I muff content myfelf with giving you thefe general {ketches of the campaigns in the north. * I am fo diffracted with varying accounts, it might be hazarding too much, yet to adopt any of them, fo far as to enter into the particulars of the war. I hope it will be in my power, at a future
period,
period, to give you a fuller detail, not only of the Ruffian war with Sweden, but of the bloody conteft between the three Imperial Courts, from the beginning of the war to its concluiion.
LETTER XXXVII.
Defcription of the City of Petersburg—-Old Petersburg—The Citadel—-William's Ifland—The Exchange—Mufeum—Imperial Academies—Cadet Corps—Statue of Peter the Great—Imperial Palace, &c.&ct
St. Feterfourg, March, 1790.
Petersburg, with all its ftately palaces and gilded domes, is fituated in the midfl of a wood, as wild and barren as any in the north. It prefents a wonderful picture of what power and genius can accomplish. Independent of art, the Neva is its only ornament: a dead, fandy, flat country, covered with brufh-wood, furrounds it upon every fide; a few miferable huts fcattered about, complete the fcene. The great Peter did not look to the moll beautiful
tlful, but to the moft ufeful fpot, for the fcite of his capital: his object was commerce folcly.   Peteriburg is the emporium for naval—Mofcow for rural affairs. The Ruffian empire, extending over a confide rable part of Europe and Afia, muft have a capital city to every kingdom of which it confifts.   Tobolfky is the chief city of the Ruffian dominions under the Pole, and bordering upon China j Petro-Paulovllcy, of the eaftern countries adjoining to America and Japan; Orenburg, of the provinces bordering upon Tartary and India; Cafan, and Aftrakan, of kingdoms of the fame name, near the frontiers of Perfia; Cher-fon, of the Crimea and provinces adjoining; and Kioff, and Mohilow, of the Ukraine and Little and White Ruffia, bordering upon Turkey and Poland.
The City of Peterfburg is not huddled together: it fpreads out, like the wings of its Imperial Eagle. The principal quarter ftands upon the continent, and upon the fouth banks of the river Neva; the fecond division is what is called Old Peterfburg C c and
and is fituated upon feveral iflands towards the north banks; the third quarter, upon William's Ifland, in the middle channel of the Neva, betwixt the other two. This noble river, after embracing the whole in its courfe, empties itfelf into the Gulph of Finland, immediately below the city. The old city, originally built upon one ifland, bearing its name, now ftretches over feveral lefler ones: it is very irregularly built, and conlilts chiefly of wooden houfes: here, however, are the firft objects that draw attention—the Citadel, in which is the Cathedial, a fine pile of building, with its gilded fpire and turrets, whofe fparkling grandeur ftrikes the eye at a great distance, and marks the facred fpot where lie interred the remains of Peter I. and his Emprefs, the Livonian Villager, Catherine ! This is the Ruffian Mecca, rind none but Infidels will neglect to make a pilgrimage to it. Mahomet's fplendid impofture collects together a croud of vagrant Turks and Arabs 3 but the maufo-leum of Peter attracts the Philofopher,
as
as well as the Warrior, from every corner of enlightened Europe: the firft admires the Legiflator; the fecond comes to touch the bones of Scanderbeg !
The boat which gave Peter the idea of building a navy, is carefully prefervcd in a fmall houfe near the fepulchre: it is em-phatically called the Grand Sire. Before this relict was depofited here, a naval review took place at Cronftadt—the Grand Sire had the honour of carrying the Admiral's flag, and received a general falute from the Ruffian fleet.
Some will fay, that the Ruffian nation are not yet civilized; and that Peter only began the work of civilization—of arts and fciences. What narrow thought!— When the work is finifhed it is his. Will fucceeding Monarchs think themfelves dif-graced in being named the difciples of this immortal Prince ? He gave the plan of the building—he laid the foundations, and reared a part of the walls: fucceeding C C 2 Mo-
Monarchs are his workmen, his bricklayers, Haters, carpenters, painters, and uphol-fterers.
Catherine II. is the moft diftinguifhed of Peter's work people, and has made fuch elegant improvements upon the original plan, that it is fo far become her own. The hatchet was the Emperor's favourite inftrument: his work was ufeful, but un-polifhed. He feemed to be fenfible of this, and early called in the affiftance of a female. Another Catherine is born to him: the fine arts go hand in hand with thofe of war, of agriculture, and commerce.
From Old Peteriburg we proceed, along a bridge of boats, to William's Ifland. Upon the north fide, and fronting the old town, are the Merchant's wharfs, the Exchange, Cuftom-Houfe, and warehoufes. In the river, between Old Peterfburg and William's Ifland, lie all the veffels that take down to Cronftadt the produce of Ruflia, to the larger foreign fhips, that cannot
come
come to Peteriburg, the channel being narrow and fhallow at the mouth of the river. Thefe velfels likewife bring from Cronftadt, all goods imported, landing them at the Cuftom-Houfe, to fecure the duties. The fouth fide of William's Ifland fronts the new city of Peterfburg; and here is built a fuperb line of houfes, among which are the Imperial Academies, and the Mufeum. The Imperial Academy of Sciences is a grand ftrudture, and is amply endued for its fupport. The Profeffors are eminent in the republic of letters, and are of different nations. Her Imperial Majefty, to adorn thofe eftablifhments, fele&s merit from every climate and country.
The Mufeum is fituated upon the high-eft and eaft point of William's Ifland, op-pofite the Imperial Palace, upon the continent, to the fouth; and the Citadel to the north. The weft point of this ifland reaches to the mouth of the Neva. The Mufeum, I beg Her Imperial Majefty's pardon, is a fmall warehoufe, containing Cc 3 famples
famples of the various productions of her empire. This world of dominion furni fh.es a Mufeum of itfelf j yet no expence has been fpared to complete the collection with every curious production from other countries. Here the Naturalifl and Merchant find equal pleafure: the one views, with rapture, the veins of gold, filver, and lead, in the native ore; the other confiders how much one hundred weight will produce of pure metal. The Cadet Corps, or Academy of War, formerly the Palace of Prince Menzikoff, is fituated betwixt the Academy of Sciences and the Mufeum. It is the nurfery of young warriors, the fons of the Nobility[and Gentry; and from this Seminary of Mars are taken the Officers for the Army. The palace of Prince Menzikoff was applied to its prefent ufe by Count Munich. There are a number of buildings adjoining, for the accommodation of the young gentlemen. The hif-tory of Menzikoff is romantic: raifed from the humbleft ftation to the rank of Prince, then racked upon the wheel of Fortunei
yet,
yet, in every Situation, the art military continued his favourite Study. During his banifhment in Siberia, the table of his cottage was always covered with maps and plans of the countries, the feats of former wars, and of battles in which he had been engaged; ftill delighting in what had oc-cafioned his fall, and poring over his destruction ! It muft appeafe his manes, that his houfe is ftill the nurfery of war!
Except this line of buildings upon the banks of the Neva, and another Street, the whole of this quarter of the city con-fiits of wooden houfes: thefe are built very regularly in Streets, cutting each other at right angles : canals run through the middle of the Streets, but, owing to the level furface of the ground, the water in them, in the heat of Summer, Stagnates, and is offenfive. They ferve no good pur-pofe, and it would be proper to fill them up with earth.
A bridge of boats croifes the Neva, opposite the Cadet Corps, making a commit-C c 4 nication
nication from WillianVs Ifland to the grand quarter of the city upon the continent. As you walk along this bridge, you have a front view of the equeflrian Statue of Peter I. which is erected upon the op-pofite bank of the river; the horfe, upon the fummit of a rock, majeftically rearing, and pawing the air-—he feems confeious of his rider: " he fmeils the battle afar *c off, his neck is cloathed with thunder." Around the Statue are always feveral Ruffians, attended by fome Biographer. You can trace, without any knowledge of the language, by the geftures of the orator and his audience, when he is recording the defeat at Narva, or the victory at Pultowa. Th:y add, in thefe orations, that Peter Stood upon the very rock which now Supports his effigies, while he beheld the Swedifh army flying from the field of battle. I have taken a drawing of this celebrated work of M. Falconet, fenior: I was af-fitted by an engraving from a drawing of young Falconet, and have endeavoured to correct fome errors in that drawing, or his
Engraver
Engraver has not done juftice to the drawing.   " When an heroic monument," fays " M. Falconet,* is to beconfecrated to the " memory of a Prince, and this Prince has " atchieved great matters in different, and " various, and even oppofite departments— <c he has gained victories in war— he has " enacted wife laws, and founded eltab-" limments conducive to the happinefs of <f his people, in time of peace—his acade-" mical eulogium may turn upon both <c thefe texts : but a ftatue, which can re-" prefent but one inttant, we mutt con-'* fider and chufe. If we give a preference H to his civil qualities over his military " virtue, this preference cannot juftly be M condemned, till it fliall certainly be de-<c termined which of thefe two kinds of u glory belongs more particularly to him, €t who has fo well deferved them both; '* but more efpecially which of them was " molt ufeful to the happinefs of mankind.
" The
* Translation from the French cf M. Falconet's Pieces on Sculpture, by the Rev. Mr. Tooke, of Pe-tcriburg.
" The habit I have given the flatue of Pe-" ter the Great, is the habit of all nations « —of all men—of every age: in a word, " it is an heroic habit."
Upon the right hand of the ftatue, and to the eaft, is the Admiralty, and Dock-Yards, and immediately beyond thefe the Imperial Palace. At this inftant there are two firft rate fhips of war building under the Palace windows! From the Admiralty fpire, all the ftreets run out as radii from the centre of a circle. The principal ftreet is that line of buildings fronting the Neva, for an extent of between three and four Engliih miles: the bank, for the fame extent, is lined with granite ftoue, with balluftrade, and foot-path of the fame materials! Near the extremities of this fuperb ftreet, called the Grand Million, and which taking the courfe of the Neva, forms a vaft obtufe angle: a canal is cut acrofs the main land, making the bale of this angel, and furrounding the city upon the continent to the fouth j fo that this
quarter
quarter entirely inclofed, with the Neva upon one fide, and this canal upon the other, for an extent of about eight miles ; the whole banks lined with granite ft one, having granite balluftrades, or iron railing. Over thefe canals are erected draw-bridges, likewife built of granite ftone. The quarter without this canal may be deemed the fuburbs: the houfes are moftly of wood, but the houfes within the canal are moftly of brick, and plaiftered, painted with every variety of colours! No wooden houfe is 1 ' -fered to be re-built within the canal, bat with brick; and the new is quickly driving the old city out of the gates ! Amidft thefe modern fabrics, the Ruffian churches every where fhoot up their antique turrets ! The Ruffians hold the form of their church walls as facred as their forms of religion Y within them.   The roofs are covered with block tin, and many of them gilded.
There are in Peteriburg three Imperial Palaces. The palace near the Admiralty, in which Her Imperial Majefty relides, is
a mag-
a magnificent edifice of brick ftuccoed, and adjoining is a long range of buildings, fronting the Neva, including the private Theatre of the Court. The Marble Palace is built of the ffone which gives it this name. The Architect has made what ought to have been the gavel, the front of this fuperb building—which itfelf feems to bluifi at its pofture. The third is the Summer Palace, built of timber, and yet the moft regular and elegant. It is placed in the Summer gardens, upon the banks of the river, and is truly a delightful refi-dence.
The Ruffian Nobles, and even the middling ranks exceed in the elegance of their houfes. In the Afiatic ftyle, they are all built in fquares; an open court in the center, to which is an entry by a large gate way.   With this tafte is mixed the
Grecian and Italian----and Corinthian,
Ionic, and other ornaments are too much crouded upon the flight fabric of brick and plaifter.   It would be better to finiih
their
their houfes in a plainer ftyle; and the ea-fier expence would enable the poffeffors to keep them in better repair. Nothing looks fo tawdry as a Corinthian cornice of plaif-ter in ruins. The new church near the equeftrian ftatue is building of the fineft Siberian marble, and will be one of the moll coff iy and fuperb ftruclures in the univerfe. The granite banks of the Neva, the equeftrian ftatue of Peter I. and this admirable building, will deliver down, to the lateft pofterity, the name of Catherine II. But Catherine is imperial in every thing, and pofterity will overlook, even thefe monuments, amidft the continued difplay of great actions. The palace near the Admiralty is fituated at the point of the angle which the river makes; and here the Neva rolls his tide, embracing the lodging of his Sovereign. From this fpot, one has the grandeft profpect imaginable: before you, upon the other fide of the river, is the old city, with its citadel and gilded fpire j the houfes furrounded or intermixed with woods.   William's Ifland prefents
another
another profpect, of a different nature: a wood of mafts, planted in front of the ftreets: to the right and left is the Grand Million, every houfe in which is of elegant ftruclure, and inhabited by the principal Ruffian Nobility and Gentlemen.— The Admiralty Dock-Yards interrupt this noble ff reet; it begins again to the left, and weft of the Equeftrian Statue at the ' Senate Houfe. The Admiralty Dock-Yards are foon to be removed, and Cronftadt, a more convenient place, adopted for the (cite of the Naval Yards. The vacancy from the Palace to the Equeftrian Statue and Senate Houfe, will be filled with buildings i and the Grand Million will then be one continued range of tafte and fplendor.
I am at a lofs to guefs what induced the Emperor to pitch upon fo aukward a fpot for dock-yards, from which the fhips muft be tranfportcd to Cronftadt, over fhoals, by means of wooden Camels, when this trouble could have been fo eafily avoided, by building his navy at the harbour where
they lie, and where there is a great depth of water, and every accommodation. The machines called Camels are conftructcd of two pieces, or a fort of half velfels, built in the fame manner as other velfels, but of a curious lhape: they are fquare at the bottom, the ends, and one fide; the other fide is hollow, and rounding. Thefe half velfels are funk to a proper depth, one at each fide of the iliip of war they are intended to carry, and their hollow fides being drawn clofe to her, form a capacious womb, which embraces the fhip of war: they are ftrongly wrapped all together with cables. The water is then pumped out of the Camels; they rife, and with them the fhip of war! Perhaps you will have a better idea of the Camels, by fuppofmg an oblong-fhaped bafon, cut length-ways, from the top to the bottom: the hollow fides of each half bafon will exactly re-femble thofe of the half Camels. Again, join the two halves together, and they form the womb which receives the burthen.   The Camels, with their loads, do
not
not draw above eight to eleven feet of water.
Peter, probably anxious to fhewhis navy to the Ruffians, built his fhips at Peterfburg, where there were a greater number to look at them. He had experienced the difficulty of prevailing upon his Subjects to come to the capital, and ftill more in making them embark for Cronftadt.—-The moment they beheld the Finland Gulph, and heard the roaring furge, they made a full ftop, or fbrunk back with terror at the awful defigns of their Prince!
LETTER XXXVIII.
Defcription of Cronftadt—Fortrefs of Cron-flott—Admiralty— Naval Cadet Academy —Palace of Qranienbaum—Palace of Pe-terhoff—Anecdotes of Peter the Great.
* St. Peterfburg, June, 1790.
In arriving from the Baltic, at the head of the Gulph of Finland, you fee before you a fmall low ifland, partly covered with woods, and at the eaft end, the city and fortifications of Cronftadt. Oppolite to thefe, and to the entrance of the harbour, to the fouth, at a quarter of a mile's dif-tance, is the fortrefs of Cronflot, built upon a bank in the fea. The foundations of the fortrefs are feveral feet under water. The channel, leading from Cronftadt to the open gulph, is very narrow, which D d con-
conftitutes its ftrength. A few fliips of the line could defend it againft a very fuperior force.
The harbour of Cronftadt is formed by wooden and ftone piers, projecting in a half moon from the main body of the ifland : thefe piers ferve, at the fame time, as ramparts, and are planted with a number of heavy cannon. This harbour is divided into three grand divifions: the moft wefterly is to the merchant fhips, who lie in lines abreaft of each other, moored at buoys. The middle and eaft divifions are appropriated for the Ruffian Navy. From the middle harbour, a canal runs to the center of the town, where the Admiralty and Dock-Yards are conftrufting. The banks of this canal are faced with granite, and the docks and piers will likewife be finifhed with the fame durable and elegant material. The fortrefs of Cronflot is entirely built from the granite quarries.
The Ruffians are neceffarily fuperb in their public buildings: they have no other
materials
materials for fuch works than marble, granite, and jgfper. Their palaces are built with the two firft, and the infide walls are wainfcotted with agate, jafper, and lapus lafuli. Siberia furniilies a variety of precious Hones, and enables the Ruffian Monarchs to vie, in fplendor, with thofe Princes of India of whofe magnificence the accounts appear romantic.
The Admiralty will contain every accommodation for the Officers employed in it, as well as barracks for the Officers of the Navy rending at Cronftadt, who have apartments and other neceffaries, at the expence of Government, at all times.—■ The whole will be one of the moft complete and noble works of the age. Admiral Greig was the active agent in all thefe undertakings.
The town of Cronftadt is pretty regularly built, but confifts moftly of wooden houfes.   Except a few buildings for the reception of the Officers of Government, D d 2 and
and for the Naval Cadets, it has no Orna* ment but its harbour. The removal of the Admiralty from Peteriburg is in every refpect neceffary, to give importance and elegance to the Plymouth of Ruffia.— Cronftadt is a well-chofen Seminary for the Naval Cadets: they have here the practice of feamanfhip continually before their eyes: they view, in the weft, the ftormy ocean, and are daily accuftomed to fcenes in which they are intended themfelves to act.
The Gulph of Finland contracts itfelf below Cronftadt, clofing gradually in a femicircle, towards that port and Peterfburg. The breadth of the Gulph, at Cronftadt, is about fifteen miles, from the Carelian to the Ingrian fhore. The firft, to the north, prefents to the view nothing but gloomy woods: Ingria, to the fouth, is proudly decorated with the Palaces of Oranienbaum, Peterhoff, and Strelina, and a number of the feats of the Nobility.
Oranienbaum
Oranienbaum is directly oppofite to Cronftadt. I embarked in one of the boats which ply the paffage here: the winds gently fanned our fails: the footy clouds, in the weftern horizon, threatened a fud-den ftorm. The feamen pulled hard at the oar, to gain the land before it reached us. We had juft entered the harbour of Oranienbaum, when the whirlwind thundered around our heads. Some boats were at this moment pafling to Cronftadt: they were hid in the fpray of the fea, and in the gloomy fqualls, and I remained in dreadful fufpence for the fate of the paffengcrs 1
The Palace of Oranienbaum is fituated upon a rifing ground: the city fpreads upon the fhore, nearer the fea j and the harbour is at a mile's diftance from both, but communicating with them, by means of a canal which reaches to the park gates of the Palace. The ground through which this canal paffes is fwampy—the banks have been conftrufted, at a great expence, with earth and ftones. To the weftward of P d 3 Ora-
Oranienbaum, the coaft fwells into hills, variegated with woods and farm-houfes.
The Palace of Oranienbaum confifts of different buildings, connected by galleries. From the top of thefe, one has a delightful profpecf of the ocean covered with vef-fels, of Cronftadt, and Peterfburg. It originally belonged to the celebrated Menzikoff. The apartments are neat, but convey no idea of princely refidence. The gardens are fmall, and in the old Dutch ftyle: in them, however, is a fine piece of water, where lie feveral pleafure yachts.- -The rifing grounds and woods on all fides of this lake, give it the appearance of a harbour land-locked, and you look around to difcover where it communicates with the fea.
The city of Oranienbaum is a collection of wooden houfes, and contains nothing worthy the notice of a Traveller. It is a kind of out-poft to the capital, and one or two regiments of horfe or foot are generally
fta-
ftationed here: at prefent it is crouded with Coffac troopers. The road from this place to Peterhoff is clofe by the fhore, through a deep fand, and wild forefts j yet here, to gladden the dreary journey, we meet with fome Gentlemens' country feats. I arrived at laft at the village of Peterhoff, and, pairing under the ihade of an avenue of branching trees, in which are built feveral handfome wooden houfes, for the accommodation of the Court, when Her Imperial Majefty refides at the Palace of Peterhoff, I faw this famous lodging before me.
The Palace of Peterhoff, bearing the name of its great founder, is fituated upon a rifing ground; the gardens extending from the Palace to the fea fliore. Peterhoff is a long narrow building, and, for the time it was built, elegant. It has only one range of apartments, but thefe are handfome and fuperb. This was the Imperial Hamlet of Peter. It was a great ftretch of his magnificence in things only orna-E? d 4 mental,
mental, when he laid the foundations of Peterhoff: it was intended for the entertainment of Foreign Ambaffadors, rather than for his own convenience.
Peter was never at eafe in his robes: the hatchet and fword were always in his mind, and he fometimes forgot himfelf fo far, as to invite the Ambaffadors to affift him in cutting down trees for his Dock-Yards ! He was another Uncle Toby, but his plans were not to be executed in lefs bounds than thofe which the univerfe afforded !
In this houfe are pictured the naval triumphs of Ruflia, facred to the memo-* ry of its firft inhabitant, and Creator of the Navy—the defeat of the Turkifh fleet, in the Archipelago, and their total deltruction in the Bay of Tfchefme, by the Ruffian fleet, under the command of Count Alexis Orlow. The Turkifh fleet, the town and fortrefs of Tfchefme were totally deitroyed, and here they appear ftill burning upon the canvafs! But the grand
Ruffian
Ruffian collection of ftatues and paintings is depofited in the Palace of Zarlko Zelo.
The famous John Barclay, in the beginning of the laft century, wrote a book which he entitled Icon Animorum—A Piclure of Minds j or the Characters of Nations.   Were fuch a book as this, or even fhort lketches of national characters and cuftoms, accompanied by paintings, re-prefenting the various coftumes, dreffes, attitudes, ordinary amufements and occupations of the people of different countries —the ftudy of moftern hiftory, as well as of the influence of climate, food, and manners, in the formation of the countenance and ftature, and of phyfiognomy, too, if there be fuch a faience, would be facilitated, and extended to an aftonifliing degree.   The painted figures, compared and contrafted with each other, would convey inftruction, by a kind of intuitive difcernment, and all the powers of the mind would be enlivened.   Even without any written account, an affemblage of the
phy-
phyfiognomies, features, dreffes, and fhapes of all nations, in all countries, with the moft habitual attitudes of their members, would prefent, of itfelf, a noble field of {peculation, and contribute very much to the advancement of the moft interesting fcience—the fcience of man.
This magnificent defign might be attempted, not without a degree of fuccefs, by the graving tool. But there are feveral particulars in the picture of nations, that cannot be hit off by the Engraver, though they may be reprefented, with great felicity, by the Painter—fuch as the tints and fhades of complexion, the appearance of the fky, the colour of the foliage, and other natural objects, that form the ground on which the human figures are introduced.
Such a Tableau des Nations would be an act of munificence to the Mufes, worthy of the prefent Emprefs of Ruflia. As there is no Sovereign Prince who fways the fceptre over fo many nations, fo there is
none
none to whom the world can To naturally look up for fo grand and fo various a picture. The Emperors of China, in their extenfive and magnificent gardens, endeavour to exhibit, as it were, a miniature picture of the natural world : it would be an object worthy of Catherine II. to enrich the Republic of Art, and alfo that of Science, by a delineation of moral character.
And that fo ftriking and inftructive an exhibition might not be confined to one Palace, let it be multiplied (for the generous indulgence of the Emprefs would readily agree to this) by the Polygraphic Society, whofe art, by a courfe of pro-greffive improvement, has been carried to a pitch of incredible, and almoft miraculous perfection : their pictures have done them great honour on the Continent— and fuch a Tableau as has juft been de-fcribed, though the moft various and com-prehenfive ever conceived, could not fail to reward the ingenious labour of the Ar-tifts,
Pe-
Peterlioff is the naval houfe of Ruffia; Oranienbaum, the military houfe. In this laft is a fine painting, reprefenting the glorious battle of Pultowa, in which too the original builder of the manfion, Menzikoff, performed a principal part. Every thing belonging to this Alexander, has been confecrated to military ufe.
The gardens are in the fame flyle with the others: the ftatues of Gods and Godeffes keep centry at every turning, and cafcades roll down gilded ftairs, in place of rocks, which are a fcarce commodity in this province; and every cafcade, and brook, and lake, have their Guardian Deities. Peterhoff Gardens prefent a picture of Lapland mythology. Neptune is placed upon his car in a fifh-pond, drawn by fea horfes, and, as ufual, the Courtiers fwim-ming round their Sovereign, and founding his praifes through cockle fhells. I could not help addrefling His Majefty, to obtain his good graces and favour, as I intended foon to embark for Old England.
The
The arts and fciences never approached Ruflia, until thefe ftatues appeared. They arefacred, and the arm that removes them fhall wither from its fhoulder. The gardens fhould like wife be preferved in their prefent ft ate.
Upon the banks of a fmall lake, near the fliore, is a houfe in which Peter ufual-ly refided, and enjoyed himfelf in living without that pomp, which his refidence in the larger manfion obliged him to affume. Here the fervants fliow the fifhing and hunting accoutrements of the Emperor, and the utenfils of cookery with which this hero dreffed his beef-flakes ! I fufpecr. that they are only copies of the original, which, no doubt,  are removed into fltfer cuffody. The fervants, no doubt, make money of thefe reliefs; the reverence for the memory of Peter will increafe the price, and the guards have, unquefKonably, cheated as many as the watchmen at the tomb of the Prophet.
In
c m )
In the lake are a great variety of fifh ; perch, carp, and other kinds. It is not permitted to any one to throw a hook, and the finny tribe are fo familiar, from this good ufage, that they will take a bit of bread almoft. out of your hand.
I went to fee the Diamond Mills. To this manufactory are brought the precious ftones found in Siberia aid other parts.
Near Peterhoff, and in the midft of a foreft, is a garden executed in the modern Englifh tafte—a very delightful fpot; and when the natural flatnefs of the ground is confidered, it is amazing what art and tafte have been exerted in finifhing it-Here are winding rivulets, cafcades dafh-ing over mofs-clad rocks, antique bridges, temples, ruins, and cottages.   In one of the huts I found a collection of prints, from the fubject of Sterne's Sentimental Journey: La Fleur's dapple feemed to be running oft* with the jack boots, to the Pole.   In this garden is building a new Palace for the Grand Duke,
At
At Perterhoff, the elegant road, formerly noticed, begins, and continues from this Palace to the gates of the capital.— The verft pillars are built of granite and marble. This road is level as a bowling-green : the diftance to Peteriburg is twenty-fix verfts, or eighteen miles. Strelina Palace is nine verfts from Peterhoff, and feventeen from the metropolis.
I am forry to inform you of the failure
of Mr. G-e S-1, one of the Britifh
Factors here. His character, among his countrymen, and among the Ruffians, was, and ftill is, highly efteemed. If the Am-baffadors at Foreign Courts were employed in affording patronage and affiftance to thofe fubjects of their refpective Sovereigns, fettled abroad, who do honour to their nation, they would be more ufefully en* gaged than at prefent, in being the Agents of war, and of the intrigues of their Cabinets.
LETTER XXXIX.
The Abbe Chappe Dy Juteroche his invidious Account of the Rufsians—The vague Ac-counts given by late travellers, and the Caufe of it—Character of the Rufsians.
Ingria, June, 1790.
It is to be regretted, that the molt able Writers upon this Empire, have either given way to prejudice, or, on the contrary, were not at liberty to fpeak freely. Travellers of our own nation, from whom we might have expected the belt accounts, pott along with fuch rapidity, that they feldom mention what is molt material for us to know: they fill up volumes with tedious hiftorical fcraps, which, however valuable, are not to the purpofe. The objects of a Traveller and of an Hiftoriau are different.   The Abbe Chappe D'Aute-
roche,
roche, tliougri he travelled with the utmoft expedition in Ruflia, was determined to decide upon the character of the nation. He feems to have viewed the faults of the Ruffians with the fame telefcope through which he obferved the tranfit of Venus, at Tobolik.
I am ftill at a lofs to {peak certainly of the character of the Ruffians: is it fair to judge of a whole nation, by the heterogeneous mixture of people in Peteriburg, a new metropolis ? What are we to do ? Shall we rely upon the accounts given us by foreigners, refiding in Peterfburg ?— Thefe are only acquainted and connected with the low Traders among the Ruffians, who are, perhaps, as keen in their dealings as any people. Would it be fair to judge of the nations of Europe, by the heterogeneous famples to be found in the ware-houfes here?
Peterfburg is only the advanced guard of the Ruffian Empire.   We muft refrain E c from
from pointed criticifms upon the character* of the natives, until we have viiited them at head quarters—in their private receffes, in their villages, in the kingdoms of Kiow, of Mofcow, of Tivere, and of Novogorod.
The Abbe D'Autroche refufes them any title to ingenuity j but unfortunately, he gives, as a proof of his affertion, what proves exactly the reverfe:
t£ In the Ruffian armies," fays he,tc the " neceffary tradefmen are not taken out <f of the fhops of artificers, but a recruit " is, by the officer, deffined to exercife any ** particular art, to which, from his fize " and fhape, he appears to be beft adapted: a lockfman, for instance, is wanted " in the company, a recruit has a lock put <c into his hands, as a model, and he is tc ordered to make one like it. This word <c of command he executes, we are told, C( with the greatest addrefs: it is only ne-41 ceffary that the model be perfect in its " kind; he would otherwife copy it, with *' all its moft glaring defects."
It might be anfwered to the Abbe, the foldier being ordered to make the one lock like the other, did right in making it exactly fo.
The Abbe allows that the Ruffians are excellent at imitation ; and if the instance he is pleated to mention in a common pea-fant, is not a proof of ingenuity, it will be hard to define what is meant by the Word. Let a lock, in the fame manner, be put into the hands of a French or Eng-lifb peafant, they would fail even in copying the defects. The Abbe D'Autro-che attributes this imaginary want of 'intellect to their flat country and hot ftoves: but he grants that they are capable of being taught. Is this any proof of poverty of mind ? Did the Abbe teach himfelf the knowledge of the planets, or was he obliged to fome fyftem of others ? He, no doubt, made improvements, from his own obfer-vations; but then, he had been taken from a work-fhop, and was not a raw recruit.
E e a
The
The Ruffians are, at this day, children in the arts: yet, comparatively with other nations, they have made quicker improvements fince the date of their firft attempt. —A Traveller, without much ingenuity, may find out a wide field for criticifm, without touching on the dull brains of the inhabitants. The young generation are full of life and fire, and refemble much the Englifh youth of the fame age.— In this latitude, it is fairer to judge of the capability of the nation by the fon than by the father, and before local evils have laid hold, as it were, of their characters.
-Their inordinate defire for money is
ftrange, if it be true, that they hold it by fo precarious a tenor as the will of their Lords. Nothing but their love of brandy exceeds this; and for nothing elfe will they voluntarily part with cafh!
The love of money pervades the higher ranks, if we can call it a love of money to wifh for it only to have the pleafure of fpendingit. The Nobility are fond of pomp,
and, in order to fupport it, gold is wanted. The Court of Ruflia has been long famous for its fplendor. The connection of this Empire with India, in former times, gave Ruffia the means, as well as the tafte for eaftern magnificence. The modern Kncezes inherit, from their fathers at Mof-cow, the tafte j but modern extravagance exhaufts the means: and this fometimes occasions an avaricious conduct, from which the worft impreffions have been received of the Nobles and Princes. The vanity of military rank -puts it out of their power to increafe their fortunes, which a ftrict attention to their peafants and eftates would foon change for the better.
From this neglect arifes a dependance upon Government, and upon great men in office—a burthen to all parties. Their fituation is the fame with the Nobility of other nations, where military parade and war are deemed more honourable than the arts of peace. Yet, even in our weal-E e 3 thy
thy ifland, the extravagance of the higher ranks is not to be fupported by the moil affluent fortunes, and too many of them depend upon the Court.
After having fquandered their fortunes among the Public, they become Pen-fioners upon thofe whom they had thus patronifed.
LETTER XL.
Of the Plan adopted by Catherine IL for the gradual Emancipation of the Ruffian Pea* fan fry—Manners and Cuftoms of the Ruffians—<The Simplicity of the Religion of the Peafantry,
Ingria, June, 1790.
Before we beftow the appellation of barbarous upon the Ruffians—before we even call them flaves, it will be fair to look round among the other nations of Europe, and inquire what are the virtues and liberties which theyboaft of? If the moft civilized are the moft luxurious, which it might be eafy to prove, they cannot be either virtuous or free. We fhall find, that luxury has debauched every European nation ; and that thofe who boaft moft of liberty, are loaded with taxes, occasioned by the E e 4 wars
wars of ambitious Ministers, fupported by venal reprefentation of venal electors! If this be the fitnation of the moft powerful, and the freer! nation upon earth, it will take away from the odious ffigma of Have, and barbarian, fo liberally given tp a happy race of men. I may here obferve, that the people being the root and Item of constitutions and laws, they muft firft amend themfelves, before they can expect any good reformation. To begin by lopping branches, is a ridiculous procefs.
The fituation of the Ruffians, in regard to freedom and civilization, is juft what it ought to be, or might naturally be expected, in their prefent circumstances, which have been the circumstances of every other nation, in their turn.
I have feen learned treatifes upon the fubject of slavery, by thofe who have never feen a flave. They recommend to tear the bandages at once from eyes which have long remained in darknefs, and ex-
pofe
pofe them, at once, to the beams of the meridian fun.   It may be as well, and as prudent, gradually to prepare the way tp freedom, by implanting principles of morality in their minds, in order to give them juft ideas of the principles and particulars in which liberty confifts, and of their duties to God and men; in iliort, to free the mind before the body.   This is the field in which the Political Reformer fhould labour.   It is only by the gradual maturation of moral caufes, that rude and favage nature is to be trained up to the exercife of virtue, and the enjoyment of liberty.
Let them firft be made capable of being good members of what we call civilized fociety, or let them remain as they are, lets luxurious, lets vicious, and, if you will, lets polilhed and free than we are.
Her Imperial Majefty, in eftablifhing foundling hofpitals in many different parts of the empire, eftablilhes, with them, a nurfery of freedom. In thefe, the children
of
of as many as pleafe are received and educated, and put to apprenticefhip, to any trade they may chufe, when they arrive at a proper age; and they are thenceforth, in every refpect free.   The new fchools, planted in every part of Ruffia, for the education of youth, equally ferve to promote the caufe of liberty.   Her Imperial Majefty was even willing to give liberty by more rapid means i and in the firft outline of her new code of laws, a claufe was inferted, which would have nearly emancipated the peafantry: but it was foon found neceffary to erafe this claufe, for the peace and fafety of the nation. I will recommend to the Ruffian Nobles and Gentry, landed proprietors, a mode of liberating their peafantry, which cannot be attended with any danger, or with any lofs to them. Let them put a price upon freedom ; let them raife a mark for their pea-fantry to flrive to gain, by induflry. Were it even iool. per head, the peafantry would foon emancipate themfelves, by permitting them, as at prefent, to enter into trade.
The
The Ruffians engaged in trade are not inclined to drunkennefs, to fuch a degree as the common pea (ant in the country, but generally fober and active.
Her Imperial Majefty, in building the city of Sophia, near the Palace of Zarfko Zelo, fo called after her maiden name, which was changed to Catherine upon her marriage, dehgned to make this infant city an afylum for the Ruffian peafantry who were oppreffed by their Lords, or who wilhed for liberty.   It was foon found, however, that none but the moft profligate and idle came to inhabit Sophia, and that the peafants confidered Sophia only as the means of obliging their Lords to agree to all their demands, by threatening to go there to refide.   The afylum was confe-quently fhut up. One circumftance, however, occurred, which points out an excellent plan for emancipating thofe who really deferve liberty.   A Ruffian peafant had made a considerable fortune in trade: he offered his Lord a price for his freedom :
dom: this was refufed, the proprietor expecting, no doubt, to fleece the flave of all he was worth. , The peafant, though a new city was open for his reception, ftill endeavoured to procure freedom by purchafe. When every attempt failed, he went to Sophia, where he now refides, and at prefent pays annually to Government to the amount of feveral thoufands fterling, duties for articles in which he traffics.—-The city of Sophia fhould ftill be a refuge for fuch, and for fuch only. Fix the price of freedom : give a flave a fmall property in land, or peculium, as among the Romans of old and our Weft-India Settlements at this day, with fome time for cultivating it, and nothing more is wanting to every purpofe—both that of humanity to the Slave, and juftice to the Mafter.
A common peafant, if he can make a fhift to live, and to pay his rent, has no other inducement to fpur him to induftry; and as that is done without much exertion, he falls into every vice of flavery.
Iloid up to him freedom, but not luxury* as a fpur to induflry.
When this mark is fixed, their exertion to attain it will render them induflrious; and this habit of indultry will render them capable and deferving of freedom. They will have the more value for this, that it has coft them dear, and naturally receive the idea, that, by a continuance of their induftry, they will bell preferve their liberties.
The landholders need not be in any terror that his eflates will be deferted by this emancipation of the flave, if, when emancipated, they will give them fmall farms, at moderate rents, payable in money. The Ruffians are, perhaps, more attached to their country than any people: they cannot all engage in trade; and a fufficient number will become farmers, when they can call their own what remains in their barns after paying their rent! Their active dif-politions incline them rather to commerce
than
than agriculture, from the quick return of profit 3 but a Ruffian will accommodate himfelf to any situation where money is certainly to be made, which he has not in his prefent fituation. And it would be more honourable to the Ruffian Nobility to be fupported by revenues derived from the induflry of freemen, than from the labour of flaves; which, however, muft of neceffity be the cafe for fome time longer: for flavery, after all, whatever hot-headed Fanatics may fay or write, is abfolutely one of the ftages through which tribes and nations of men are deftined to pats, into free and nobler fyftems.
Travellers into Ruffia have defcribed the
fervile demeanour of the Ruffian Have,
particularly in his mode of .falutation, in
bowing his head to the earth y and they
teem to reft upon this, as a mark of a
flavifh mind. But we fhould not judge of
people by fo vague a proof as a peculiar
mode of falutation, or compliment. The
Ruffian has as much meaning in this fa-lute,
lute, as we have in fubfcribing ourfelves the moll: humble fervants of one another, in letters. Befides, a Ruffian onlyobferves this piece of politenefs to his fuperior, his commander, or one on whom he has immediate dependance; and at the very time he is bowing himfelf, he familiarly calls them brothers, as they alfo call him, if they were the greateft Princes in the Empire.   A Ruffian feldom lifts his hat, to any perfon above his own rank, unlefs he knows him, and depends, in fome degree, upon his favour: but they are punctual in this common falute to thofe of the fame rank with themfelves: they are conftantly bowing to one another, and a ffranger, who does not inquire farther, confiders all this as a proof of ferviliry.   A Traveller, marching through Ruffia, will receive more falutes of this kind from the peafantry, if he is cloated in a fheep's fkin, and a beard appending to his face, than if he were dreffed in purple.
Thefe inftances of their cuftoms, are proof* of a very noble fpirit in the natives.
I can-
I cannot help obferving here, that the Ruffian women are as elegant in their manner of faluting, as the men are aukward: putting both hands upon their breaft, they gently incline their head, with the utmofl grace and eafe : and a cottage girl will acquit herfelf as handfomely as a Dutchefs. Nature has given all the Ruffian females a moft bewitching manner of addrefs, which is in direct contrail with the rough, blunt male peafant, who, except in the article of bowing, nearly refembles the Bear, whofe fur he wears.   Mr. Wraxall, however, complained, that in his journey of 4000 miles, he could not obtain a fmgle kifs from any of the ladies near the Pole, unlets from an old Swedifh Dutchefs, wanting the teeth.   This muft have been owing to the hafty manner of amorous youth, fince the Rev. Mr. Coxe gives us a minute detail of the regular approaches to the lips of the northern damfels; no doubt, for the instruction of thofe of his countrymen who may vifit Scandinavia!
The
The effect of climate, and local caufes, upon men and manners, is wonderful! Man feems to take the very complexion of his body from that of the earth where he is fituated.
Yet in thefe frozen regions they have found out a method, in fome particulars, to counteract the effect of climate. I have already obferved, that the Ruffians are not fuch fools as to fhiver, like many of our countrymen, under flight clothing, even in the rigours of cold. The higher claffes are wrapt clofe in furs, the lower in the woolly fkins of fheep: a kind of natural fleecy hofiery, one of the mofl important articles of Britifh manufacture, which was firft brought into notice by the late Lord Heathfield, a philofopher as well as great military Commander, not only as affording a moft comfortable degree of warmth, but as a moft efficacious remedy againft rheu-matifm and -the gout. The plan now in agitation, for diifeminating knowledge, enterprife, and induftry, at the northern F f- and
and weftern extremities of Britain, by tranflating one of the Colleges at Aberdeen to Invernefs, or perhaps Dingwall, and converting the empty building into a manufactory of the fine Scotch wool into garments of the fleecy hofiery kind, fo well adapted to northern latitudes, under the aufpices of the patentees of that ufeful invention, who are men of liberal minds, is highly worthy of all poffible encouragement. The run from Aberdeen to the Baltic, where, and particularly at Peterfburg, the demand for fleecy hofiery garments, when once known, wjll be great, is fhort and eafy.
The ancient Scandinavians had not found
out the art of heating their houfes by ftoves,
and the cold they fuffered made them chafte
in Winter! All fublime hiftorians, in profe
and verfe, have therefore reprefented Chaf*
tity as cold, and dreffed her in virgin fnow,
and icicles.   The Poets flated the Temple
of Diana with pieces of ice.  The Ruffian
cabins are fo many hot-houfes, which,
added
added to their baths, have created, in both fexes, the moft amorous difpofitions : and they cohabit together at as early an age as the natives of Indoftan.
The Germans, Danes, Swedes, and Norwegians, having likewife the ftove, preferve the Summer heat in the bleak months, and are fond hufbands and gallants all the year. Britons are moulded by other caufes. Without ftoves, and without clothes, no nation fuffers fo much from cold. It is furprifing, then, that we are not as famous for our chaftity as for our courage.
Liberty is the ftove which warms us !
Liberty   gives  commerce----commerce,
wealth—wealth, luxury—and luxury, an amorous complexion.
As the Ruffian peafant is bound to the eftate, the eftate is no lefs bound to him. Every Ruffian landholder muft pay his taxes to Government, and maintain them,
F f 2 by
by giving the nifties a fufficient portion of land. The proprietor, no doubt, exacts a rent; but fometimes the peafant ufes the freedom to drink his crop, and the Lord has no recourfe but to the whip. A Ruffian peafant, of the genuine breed, will riik a beating, at any time, for a pint of brandy.
It has been obferved, that the natural difpofition of men is beft difcovered when they are in liquor. If this is the cafe, I can teftify the good temper of the Ruffians. When they are drunk, they continue kiff-ing one another, until they turn fober. Their lips are in conftant motion, either emptying the bottle, finging, or preffing the mouths of their bearded brothers.— The ladies, too, of the lower clajfes, fometimes indulge in libations to Bacchus!—* However overpowered they may be, male or female, by the juice of barley, they never neglect to crofs themfelves when they ccme near to a church. :
The
The Ruffians, like the great men of other nations, leave their religion in the hands of the Priefts, and pay them for taking charge of it. The Clergy read the fervice and fing hymns, joined by a chofen band of choriffers. The audience attend, in refpectful filence. The Priefts read the fervice with fuch expedition, as if they were afraid that the audience fhould un-derftand it; and indeed if one diftincf word -reach the ear of any of the congregation, they have reafon to be proud of their quick hearing.
A Ruffian contents himfelf, if he is a good man, with his good works: his religious duties confift in croffmg himfelf. When he comes out of doors in the morning, the firft thing he does is to crofs himfelf, turning towards any church within fight, or to the found of any bell within hearing. When he eats or drinks, he croffes himfelf before and after meals. When he letts his fledge for hire, he croffes himfelf upon receiving the fare. When he begins F f 3 a jour-
a journey, when he enters any houfe, when any thing remarkable occurs, as being informed of the death of a relation or acquaintance, a thunder ftorm, or whatever fuddenly ftrikes his attention, he croffes himfelf. The Ruffian beggars, of whom, indeed, there are few in Ruffia, as every eftate maintains its peafantry, have the moft humble manner of croffing themfelves, and the moft interesting humility of demeanour, in afking charity, that can be imagined. Upon a holy-day, they place themfelves before the churches, upon their knees, even when the ground is covered with fnow, and the cold winds howling around them. In this pofture, bowing their heads to the earth, and croffing their breafts with fervor, they call upon the name of Chrift, and humbly implore the charitable mite. If the paffenger beftows this, the fupplicant bleffes him: if he re-fufes, he alfo bleffes him.
LETTER XLL
Soil of the Province of Ingria—Prefent State of Agriculture—Economy of the Peafantry —Anecdote of the Grand Duke Paul Pe-trovitfch—IIis Attempt to Emancipate the Peafants—German Colonies for the Improvement of Agriculture—Anecdote of a Sa-moeide Member of the Rufsian Parliament.
Ingria, Auguft, 1790.
Perhaps it is in every refpect for the benefit of the Ruffian Empire, that the capital is fituated in a barren province. Peterfburg acts upon the Empire as a foreign country, and keeps the whole in motion, in fupplying her demands.
The foil of Ingria is a white fandy clay, which is deemed the pooreft of all the forts of earths ; yet here, by the kind providence Ff4 of
of Nature, it is made to produce abundant crops, when properly cultivated. This flat country receives upon its bofom an even covering of fnow during Winter, and this, in the Spring, melting, diffributes moifture to the lands, with the fame equality. But this fnow, now ferving for manure, would prove the deftroyer of the foil were the lands hilly. The thaw in Spring would,, in this cafe, occafion a run of water, which would carry along with it that moitture which the foil now retains, as well as its richeft particles. Upon the other hand, were the foil of Ingria of a rich nature, this flat furface of the lands, when the fnow melted, would reduce it to a mortar, and render it ufelefs, fince fo fhort a Summer's fun would not exhale the over-abundant moifture. The fandy foil drains itfelf, yet the flat furface of the land makes it retain a sufficient quantity of fap.
The rye harvefl is finiflied: it is later this year than the laft, owing to the wet feafon.
Rye
Rye is the golden grain of the North: the peafants do not fow much of any other kinds of corn. Of this grain they make their bread, and their drink too: rye fteep-ed in water gives them their favourite draught. The culture of their rye differs very little from that of the wheat in Britain : it is fown in Autumn, after Summer fallow. The Winter fnow protects it from the feverity of the froft. Of oats and barley fmall quantities only are fown, and they are feldom reaped in a perfect ftate. The Summer is fhort, and when attended, which it generally is, with heavy rains, the harveft is retarded.
The oats and barley are then cut green, and dried in their barns with ftoves. The rye, under the famecircumftances, is treated in the fame manner. The procefs is very fimple: the grain, with its ftraw, is placed upon rafters in the barn, and a ftove heated beneath them. A few hours only is re-quifite to dry the grain in fo hot an oven, and a new quantity is brought, until the
whole
whole crop is dried. The Ruffian diftillers ufe all forts of grain. The oats are raifed chiefly for their horfes*
The poor people, in Summer, cannot afford to live upon beef 5 and the fifh, at this feafon, are dearer, too, than in Winter. The peafantry, as fubff itutes, ufe vegetables, efpecially the cucumber) which they eat with black bread. The cucumber peculiar to this climate is fmaller than the Englifh kind : it is cultivated in every garden, in vafl quantities 3 and every cottage has a cucumber plantation belonging to it* They are now felling at five copies, or about two-pence per hundred! The peafants either eat them when newly cut, or pickled ; and one feldom fees a Ruffian in Summer, without a bit of black bread in one hand, and a cucumber in the other.
The pickled cucumber is prepared in this manner: a layer of oak leaves is firft put in the bottom of a cafk, then a layer of cucumbers, and fo alternately, until the
cafk
cafk is filled. A pickle is then made, in the common way, with fait and water; care being taken that it is not made too ftrong, and poured into the cafk, over the cucumbers. It is only neceflary to keep the cafk in a cool cellar, and the cucumber is foon ready for ufe, and keeps twelve months, or longer, in good condition.
Strangers do not, at firft, relifti this arctic pickle: yet they foon become fond of it, and eat it with all forts of viands. I imagine, if a proportion of vinegar were added to the fait, this difh would be the more wholefome. The Ruffians, from their liking to fait meffes, are very fcorbutic in their habits.
The Ruffian and Finland peafants pickle other roots in the fame way.
The cabbage is another grand article in the Ruffian ceconomy. Large tubs are filled with this plant, cut down in fmall lhreds; upon thefe cold water is poured,
and
and the cabbage ffeeped, until it fours.— The water is then taken off, and the operation is completed. This is done in Auguft and September, while the weather is yet warm enough to affift in the fermentation. The calks are put into cellars, and the cabbage is frozen during the cold weather, fo that, when wanted for ufe, it muff be cut with a hatchet. It muff be thawed in cold water, and thereafter, a foup is made of it with meats.
Any kind of frozen fubflance put into warm water, or near any thing hot, in-flantly putrifies; and the Ruffians are very careful in the management of this Winter provifion, upon which they greatly depend.   The peafantry having laid in a proper quantity of rye, meal, falted cucumber, and four cabbage, bid defiance to the nine months of Winter.   They procure, too, at this feafon, from the market, frozen fifh and meat, in fuch quantities as their circumflances may permit. Their cattle are the worn: provided for in the
long
long dreary feafon, from October to May; and this is owing more to the lazinefs of the peafantry, than to the want of a fufr ficient quantity of grafs, if they would be at the trouble to cut it in due time, and to lay it up in the (ame good order that they do their own provifions.
The peafants not only make preparations of cabbage for their own confumption, but for that of the great towns. It is common to fee feveral hundred fledges, with as many tubs of four cabbage, driven to Peterfburg. The boors, in returning to town, feat themfelves in the tubs, and look like fo many Difciples of Diogenes.
Every peafant is allowed a certain portion of land for the purpofe of agriculture, and a confiderable fpace of woodlands is granted to the villagers, in common, for feeding their herds and flocks, and to fupply Winter provender for the beaftial. They pay their Lords in money and in fervice—fometimes partly in grain. The exactions of the Lords are arbitrary.
The
The Ruffians and Fins are both of them very indolent farmers ; yet, the firft are as lively and active, as the others are naturally dull and fluggifti. The Ruffians, naturally fpirited and quick in all their paf-fions, are not well calculated to wait the flow returns of harveft; and the want of population, in a wide fertile country, is unfavourable to exertion,
The hot ftoves woidd of themfelves oc^ cafion all their indolence, did no other caufe exift ; and their lively tempers, that muft be employed in fome way, make them drunkards. They do not drink to warm themfelves becaufe they are cold, or to drown melancholy becaufe they are flaves. The Tongufian hunters fuffer more cold than any people, and they are the fobereft of any. The lower order of Englifhmen drink as much as thofe of Ruffia, only they differ in their manner of drinking.—■ The Ruffian fwallows as much at once as ferves him for fome hours •> the Englifhman fips continually, and talks politics
over
over his bottle. Now, it is wonderful that the Ruffians fhould drink becaufe they are flaves, and Britons becaufe they are free ! A Briton fhould never get drunk, left he forget, but for a moment, that he is free; or have wild ideas, inftead of fober reality.
I do not pretend to fay, that freedom and fecurity of property are inimical to induflry : they are the mothers of induf-try, and every noble exertion. But I will prove that, were the Ruffians at this moment free, they would be lefs induftrious, and have more vices than they have at prefent, if that freedom were given them before they are prepared for it.
I will content myfelf juft now with giving one or two glaring inftances of the ftubbornnefs of ignorance.
Slaves will complain of hardfhips, and pant after liberty, without knowing their incapacity for enjoying freedom. #t is only for thofe who are capable of freedom,
that
we fhould be forry if they remain in a ftate
of bondage! The complaints of the peafantry, upon fome eftates of the Grand
Duke, reached his Highnefs.   He ordered
them to be put upon the fame footing with
Englifli farmers, exacting a trilling rent,
providing them with every implement of
husbandry, and giving them inftrucf ors to
teach them agriculture. The peafants made
fhift to fell their new property, and drink
the value in the courfe of two years: they
failed to pay even the trifling ftipulated
rent, and petitioned to be put upon their
old eftablifhment.
The new code of laws, before it was publifhed, was reported to contain a very ftrange kind of freedom; and the more diftant from the metropolis, the more ridiculous were the notions entertained of that freedom. The peafantry were im-preffcd with an idea, that they were to have the freedom of enflaving their Lords, or to force them to do whatever they required; and they began to put the law in execution,
by
by murdering feveral Proprietors of estates.
The Ruffians are a fine people, but they are not yet ripe for receiving freedom.— Their Sovereigns are doing every thing in their power to prepare them for liberty, by inuring them to induflry and good habits j and this is all that the fober and wife advocates for liberty can wifh for. There are many inflances of the unneceffary oppreffion of the peafantry ; but this is neither the fault of the Sovereign, nor of the Proprietors, further than, that the Proprietors fhould be more careful than they fometimes are, in appointing Overfeers on their eflates. Thefe are the tyrants who bring odium upon Government, and upon the Ruffian Nobles; and there fhould be fome regulations adopted, to prevent men without character or feeling, from having it in their power to difgrace their country. But while we allow thefe evils to exiff, it will eafily occur, that fo fenfible a people G g as
the Ruffians, yet untaught, and having paffions, of confequence, wild and furious, are not yet to be kept under, but by a fteady, and even by a fevere hand.
I have witneifed the difmiffion of tyrannical Overfeers of land, on feveral oc-cafions. When the Proprietors know of the evil, it is their intereft to cure it. Both Lord and Peafant ought to be the happiefl people upon earth. Ruffia is extenfive and fruitful, and the taxes, in times of peace, very moderate. The natives are capable of every improvement in arts and fciences. Time will remove temporary difadvantages, which all other nations have had in their turn.
In the Province of Ingria, and in the neighbourhood of Peteriburg, are colonies of German farmers, formerly effablilhed by Her Imperial Majefty, Their farms are proofs of what induftry can effecx, even in the latitude of 60 deg. They raife very fine rye crops, and they fupply the metropolis
J>olis with all forts of vegetables, as cabbages, carrots, turnips, potatoes, &c. The adjacent city gives them plenty of manure, of which they ufe too much. They feem to confider the quantity rather than the quality of their crops ; and the potatoes in particular, which fhould be excellent in a fandy foil, are fpoiled by the heaps of manure thrown upon the land. This is very much to be regretted, as this root would be a more wholefome food for the natives than their falted cucumber; and it might gradually draw off their tafte from that excefs of raw vegetables, which they devour continually. Thofe German colonies are effablifhed in many other parts of the empire, and their example will, in time, excite the Ruflian peafants to follow agriculture with more attention and induflry.
But the Ruffian, with every local evil and difadvantage, is inactive only in affairs of agriculture: in trade he is a very different perfon; and from this I am apt to think that their property is not fo infecure G g 2 as
as fome, who are more attentive to the names of liberty and vaffalage than to matters of fact, would perfuade us. Nor are his greater exertions in trade than in agriculture, occafioned by a tafte for the pleafures of luxury. The Ruffian trader, as yet, deals in luxuries without tatting them, brandy always excepted: his only object being to gain money. The new code of laws has put the people upon a very different footing from what they were on formerly; and the natives, when employed in trade, or other concerns which demand quick application, and are attended with quick returns of profit, do not appear to be afraid of getting rich. It is diverting to hear the two accounts given by the Ruffians, by thofe at one thoufand miles diitancc: the fage philofopher, in his clofet j and the mercantile foreigner, who refide: in Ruffia. The firft, oppref-fing the natives with chains and knouts, and every load of mifery and woe, renders them ftupihed, fullen, and carelefs: the fecond complains, that the natives are as lharp as himfelf, and that very little
advantage
advantage can be got over them in any dealings; but, on the contrary, that the Ruffians have no averfion to over-reaching, when in their power; and as they do this in a lefs polite and fly manner than po-lifhed nations, the proofs againfl: them are clearer, and the complaints louder than they might be otherwife.
In forming the new code of laws, Her Imperial Majefty fummoned, from every part of the Empire, Deputies to affiff her Councils. When the Samoeide Deputies came, in their turn, to be queifioned in regard to what new regulations were ne-ceifary in their country, they replied, " that *' they had few laws, and did not require " more: that if any one put another to V death, he, likewife, was punifhed with " death." They were alked, " if they had " no other criminals amongfl them—no <c thieves, no adulterers?" Theyanfwer-ed, " that there were fuch among them. " What, then," rejoined their interrogators, " are the punifhments annexed to O g 3 " the
<c the crimes of theft and adultery ?'— " What!" faid one of the reverend De puties, (farting with furprife, is not de teclion a fuflicient puniihmentI"
LETTER XLII.
Cuftoms and Manners of the -Finlanders----
Contrafl of Character between the Rufsian and Finldnder—Character of fhe Rufsians —Native Politenefs and Good Nature— Anecdote of a Rufsian Soldier—Of a Ruffian Sheriff.
Ingria, Nov. 1790.
No two nations differ more from each other than the Ruffians and Finlanders. The former are as active, acute, and fen-fible, as the latter are flow, heavy, and ftupid. Both are nearly in the fame fi-tuation in regard to freedom, or rather in regard to flavery: both are under the fame climate. This proves that there is a difference in the very nature of men, which neither local fituation nor climate is able wholly to eradicate.
G g 4 The
The poor Finlanders, tolled about from one Matter to another, hardly know to whom they belong: the Ruffians, as their conquerors, claim the fuperiority; and a Ruffian peafant, in comparifon with the Finlander, deems himfelf a Gentleman. The apparent flownefs and ftupidity of the Finlanders may be partly occafioned by a degrading treatment. My propofal of removing them to the province ot the Ukraine, would put this numerous and in-duftrious nation more upon a level with the Ruffians, and if they actually poffefs abilities, a fituation more independent will bring them forth. This plan would be of great fervice to the Ruffians. The contemplation of a people fo much inferior to them, as the Finlanders are at prefent, leads them to fuppofe themfelves more accomplifhed, in manners and arts, than the world is yet willing to allow them t0 be.
Civilization is belt promoted by example.   The belt books of laws, manners,
and
and fciences, fent among uncivilized nations, tranilated into their native language, would hardly excite their notice; or, if they did, probably their contempt or deri-fion.   But when foreign nations mix with them, when they fee theory reduced to practice, the iuperior wealth of the ftran-gers, they begin to exert themfelves, to equal the others in arts, which they are now convinced is the fure road to affluence. The Britifh nation is copied by all others, becaufe they are the richeft: which naturally makes foreign nations conclude that thofe arts which procured fuperior riches, are themfelves fuperior to the arts of other ftates.   When the Ruffians fee the wealth of a people, whom they at prefent defpife, increafed by means of induf-try, and the adoption of arts common to both—when they find the Finlander approaching to equality with themfelves, they will be convinced of the neceflity of adopting the arts and fciences of foreign nations, in order to maintain their boafled pre-eminence over the Finlanders. The
Ruffians
Ruffians have already the example of foreign nations; but they have not long had it, and that only from a few as yet refi-dent with them : and when their pride as well as intereft is joined, their motions, their improvements will be more rapid.
The Finlander, fituated as he is, remains
quiet, and cautious of giving any offence:
this caution and quietnefs have produced in
him a confiderable fhare of low cunning.
I do not recollect to have feen a Finlander
in a paflion : low murmurs are the utmolf
ft retch of his feelings. A Ruffian, though
he does not repel, fhrinks frominfult, and
gives vent, the firft opportunity, to his
curies, when his tyrant is out of hearing,
but without paying any regard who may
hear him betide.   In this in fiance he re-
fembles a woman : he makes up in words,
what he dare not in blows; and frequently,
too, his tears are fummoned to the aid of
his fpeech.   The tears of a Ruffian ftart
from him indignantly, and give even a
greater manlinefs to his looks.   A Finlander
lander hangs his head, weeps, whines, and complains like a child.
The Finlander being deemed, and even deeming himfelf inferior to the Ruffian, copies after him in manners, but particularly in wearing the beard: and no doubt he means this, too, as a difgwfe, to lofe, in drefs and manners, the odious dittinc-tion which otherwife would fall more fe-verely upon him.
Their religion does not enjoin wearing the beard, and it mult certainly be for the purpofe I have already hinted at, that the Finlander wears it. Thofe of this nation who ftill remain under the Swedifh Government, univerlally (have the beard. The Ruffians, emigrants from finer climates, add the fheep-fkin. to their other clothes, in Winter. The Finlanders, the natives of the Polar regions, are more hardy in this refpect.. A Finlander feldom wears the fheep-fkin, though his drefs be, in other refpeds, nearly funilar to the Ruffian :
fian: it confifts of a coarfc pair of linen drawers, which ferve both for breeches and ffockings. Their legs are wrapped, befides, with pieces of linen or woollen fluff, rolled about with ft raw ropes ; and they have ftraw fhoes upon their feet. Their coat is of coarfe woollen ftuff, of a dark brown or white colour, made without regard to fhape, and is tied round the body with a band. The Fin's beard defends the lower part of his face, and a fur cap his head from the cold j and he ties a handkerchief round his neck. The Ruffian's drefs differs from this, chiefly in his ex-pofing his neck to cold and heat, and wearing leather boots, inftead of ftraw ftockings. I have obferved that tL° Finlanders, in one inftance, feeming to forget their defire of blending themfelves with Ruffians, wear, univerfally, a red cape to their coats. But let a Finlander be ever fo near in drefs to the Ruffians, I can pick him out from among a crowd of the latter: not only his white locks betray him, but his inanimate figure, which feems to
move
move by outward rather than from inward impulfe.   White locks, common to the Danes, the Norwegians, the Swedes, and Finlanders, prove them the mod ancient inhabitants of the countries they now live in, and probably of the fame origin.   I do not underitand much either of the Finland or Swedifh dialect; but, if my ears do not deceive me, they are nearly fimilar, not only in many of the words, but in the manner of fpeaking: both people have a very plaintive tone in their pronunciation.
The Finlander imitates, with fuccefs, the drefs of the Ruffian : a ffranger is not fenfible of the difference between the two people: he finds great difficulties, however, in his attempts to be as cheerful as bis conquerors. A Ruffian fings from morning till night, unlefs when he is paying away money. A Finlander never tunes his throat, unlefs when he is drunk, and then he roars, without regard to mufic: he catches, perhaps, a tune from fome palling
Ruffian
Ruffian, but he forgets it again in a few-minutes. I wondered, at my firft arrival here, to hear fuch a mixture of good and bad mufic, upon the high ways. I now find who were the bafe performers. A Finlander pulls off his hat to every perfon who appears like a Gentleman—a Ruffian feldom, unlefs to his brothers in fheep-fkins.
The Finland women are extremely
coarfe in their perfons and features. They
wear a ftrange kind of drefs, ornamented
with   embroidery  of different coloured
threads, and hung in every corner with
glafs beads, which are even wrought into
the cloth.   They are fond, too, of gold
and filver ornaments, and have each a fort
of filver gorget upon their breaff. But
this is their holy-day drefs: inordinary,
it differs little from that of the men. The
married women tie up their hair, and wear
upon their heads a fmall hood of linen.
The unmarried women allow their hair to
fall upon their fhoulders, and have fome-
times
times a gaudy head-drefs, compofed of a bit of pafteboard, or other {tiff fubftance, ftudded with beads, or fparkfmg with lace.   This laft piece of finery encircles, but does not cover their heads.   In this laft article of drefs, they appear to have copied after the Ruffian females, whofe habits, I have already obferved, bear a ftrong refcmblance to that of the women in the Highlands of Scotland: yet the drefs of the Ruffian men does not, in the fmall-eft degree, refemble that of the Highlander :  indeed,   neither of them wear breeches; but the Ruffian lone: trowfers has no fimilarity to the philabeg. The drefs of the Ruffian is long, flowing, and warm—the Highlander's, his plaid excepted, fhort and fcanty.
The inhabitants in many countries under the Line, are not more tawny than the Finlanders, men and women, at an advanced, and even at a middle period of life. The extreme cold of the Polar Winter, not lei's than the hot ftoves and baths,
and
and the fultry Summer, produce this effect, with the affiftance of their dirty habits. The Ruffians, particularly the women, have a fpirit of cleanlinefs, in defiance of their general cuftoms, which are inconfiftent with it. But the Finlanders, when old, retire as it were amidft filth itfelf: their forms are incrufted with nafti-nefs, and indeed the human form, amongft them, is nearly loft. When young, their colour is rather delicate; their fnowy hair fpreads upon their moulders, and they would feem to promife more agreeable per-fons in old age. The Ruffians have dark hair and complexions from infancy, tho' many of the Ruffian women have not only fair complexions, but delicate fhapes, which, added to their enchanting demeanour, renders them irrififtibly charming.
Beauty, among the Finlanders, is rarely found. I have, neverthelefs, feen fome perfect models of beauty among the females, which their aukward manner and drefs could not hide: for the Finland ladies
dies have not the native politenefs of the Ruffian, and when they are polite, it is copied from the latter.
I have in vain attempted to difcover what the Finlander inherits from Nature, unlefs a loft difpofition, which is entirely moulded by the actions of thofe caufcs already mentioned.
I find no difficulty in drawing the portrait of the Ruffian. He inherits a foul that darts its light through the milt, which hides rather than mixes with it. I have before taken notice of the inclination of the Ruffians to fun and merriment. They catch at every ludicrous circumftance; but I never faw a people fo good natured, and fo very polite withal. A Ruffian laughs, if it appears to him that you wifh to make him laugh j and every peafant contrives to excite laughter in his neighbour: but they feldom laugh at any incident, however ludicrous, if it is occafioned by mif-take, and particularly if the miftake is at i H h tended
tended with any uneafy circumftance to the* perfon who makes it. I have often admired their behaviour to foreigners, who attempted to fpeak the Ruffian language. In many other nations, and moft I believe among our own countrymen, nothing affords fuch diverfion as the blunders committed by ftrangers, in fpeaking their language, and even in companies who wifh to be efteem-ed polite. A Ruffian boor, if addreffed by a ftranger, looks anxioufly at him, and is uneafy for his errors : he encourages you to make figns, to affift him in gueffing your meaning: he even inftructs you to make them, and having gueffed at your meaning, which he does very quickly, he is very happy, and flies to procure what you want. A Ruffian is not fo quick in un-derftanding his native language, when he is defired to do what he knows he will be forced to do. He is, at this time, as flow and ftupid as a Finlander. But where he knows he is to procure thanks, and in many inltances when he can expecl nothing but thanks, he is fond of obliging-
ARuf-
A Ruffian accuftomed to obey, is equally fond of being obeyed, when he is in the leaft degree in authority, or where he is certain of being in the right.
It will appear ftrange to you, who have heard nothing from Ruffia but founds of dungeons, chains, and knouts, to read thefe new Iketches of their cuftoms and character, which I do allure you are drawn from life; and their vices and virtues, their faults and excellencies, recorded as they occurred to my observation. A Ruffian coachman, fome time laft Summer, drove me into the capital. A retinue of fome great man was coming from it, and, keeping upon the left hand fide of the road, my coachman called out to the pof-tillions to keep to the right: the road was the beft to the left, fo the great man's poftiilions, trufting that their magnificent fhow would awe us into compliance, kept their ground. My coachman poured upon them a volley of oaths. The poftillions drove to the oppofite fide: the great man H h 2 ftared,
\
flared, and perhaps miftook me for another great man, from the impudence of my fervant. We paffed to windward of this Nobleman and his fuite, and involved the Orders of St. George and St. Waldemar in a cloud of duff. I reprimanded the coachman for behaving fo infolently. He repeated his oaths, and faid, " that " every perfon fhould keep to the right " hand    and then he continued his fong.
I was much pleafed lately with the behaviour of a foldier of a Ruffian regiment who, in their march, halted in our neighbourhood in order to procure frefh horfes for their baggage waggons. The Sheriff of the diftrict, who is a God among the peafantry, arrived at the poft-houfe, and fent his Starofts or Meffengers into the villages, to find a fupply of cattle and boors. The Corporal of the advanced guard complained that the number brought in was not fufHcient. The Sheriff told him. " that he would order him to he
" tied and whipped, if he dared to givc
« di-
ct directions or opinions." The fon of Mars, in one of Corporal Trim's attitudes, replied fharply, " that he had a title to " fpeak." The Sheriff afked him " if he " knew who he talked to ?" " Yes," faid the Corporal, "it is your duty to collect " horfes, and mine to fee that the number " is fufhcient for our company." The Sheriff ftormed, and beftowing the ac-cuftomary oaths, repeated the various dignities of his office. The Corporal afferted, " that he was as good as him; that he was " a foldier, had fought for his country, and " was bound to obey his Officers only." The Magiltrate and Captain lowered his tone, though he was more than half feas over. But that he might keep up his authority and refpect among the peafantry, who had liftened to the difpute, he ordered two or three of them to be whipped, under pretence of their having been dilatory in coming with their cavalry.
I witneffed this whipping.   I had never feen the operation before in Ruffia by pub-H h 3 lie
lie fentence. If the execution is always fo gentle as it was in the prefent cafe, too much has been faid about it by Travellers. The peafants, one after the other, placed upon their hands and knees, received a few flrokes from a Starofl, with a fmall wand, upon their backs. The Deputy Sheriff, or, as they call him, Lieutenant, is a German Nobleman, a man of the moil polite and gentle manners, very unfit ' for his prefent poft, but very capable of a better and more exalted rank. He avoids affuming his titles. The Finland peafants have no refpect for him, as he feldom orders them to be beat. They are not like the Ruffian peafants, fen fib le of favours of this nature: yet, to fay truth, both of them require to be kept in order by a ftrict hand. The Ruffian is very fenfible of obligations and kind ufage; but he is apt to abufe favour, and to form expectations incompatible with his prefent fituation.— He has as yet no idea of the nature of freedom, other wife than the liberty of do-i ing every thing without fear of blows.
The
The Deputy Sheriff fhrinks when he is under the neceflity of ordering punifh-ment: he does not feem to think the pu-nifhment unneceffary, but his gentle foul regrets that he muff fee the execution of juflice.
He lives in a fmall wooden houfe at Oranienbaum, with an old mother, and a filler. His pay does not exceed 50I. a year, yet he appears cheerful, and flruggles to conceal his forrows from the world. His brother Officers complain, that they cannot trufl him in any matter which requires a fevere executioner.
Hh4
LETTER XLIII.
Rufsian Climate—Of the Hot and Cold Baths, their ill Effects upon the Cojifiitution of the Natives—The Rufsians enabled to bear Cold by ivarm Furs alone—Phyfcal and Moral Effeels of the Baths.
Ingria, Jan, 1791.
]VX an kind were firft placed in a fine climate : they have, to this day, an averfion to burning funs and chilling frofts; nor do I believe that they made choice of thefe latitudes where the extremes are felt, particularly of cold, or that any neceffity would have driven them to the Poles. 1 rather imagine that the climates have altered, and that a gradual alteration in thefe, has reconciled the inhabitants to rigours, otherwife infupportable.
Jt
It may be urged, why are not other animals as well as man found here, the fame as in other countries, and for the fame reafons ?
It has been nearly proved by Naturalifts, that the Elephant, now only found in warm latitudes, was once a native of Siberia. That the animals of warm and hot climates do not now exifl in the north, may be owing to the want of thofe re-fources againfl: cold, which the ingenuity of man found out.
I think I view the fagacious Monarch of the Woods, retiring with flow and ful-len flep from the northern deferts—hear him growling with agony, as he afcends the mountains of Tibet, and calling back a wilhful eye to his native plains!
A celebrated Writer (Mr. Pallas) has given up his former opinion regarding the exiflence of the Elephant in Siberia, and now thinks, from the fituation in which
their
their bones are found, that the flood has wafned them thither from India, after the animals had been deitroyed. The marine flrata covering thefe bones, no doubt prove, that the action of the waters occa-fyoni their prefent appearance: but does this prove, too, that thele animals were not natives of Siberia ? Is it not poilible that they may have been drowned here as well as in India ?
Whether the generations of the north have made choice of their fituation, or no, they feem to be very well pleafed with it, for they are always finging or dancing, when they are not eating and drinking, or ileeping.
It is a generally received opinion, that the hot and cold baths ufed by the noi> thcrn nations, harden and fteel their con-ifitutions againft the feverity of climate; and the Writers upon the northern climates tell us, that the human body, by plunging from the hot to the cold bath,
is tempered like iron: but perhaps what may temper iron, may not temper fleih and blood.
The rapid change from Summer to Winter, the only feafons they know, they rehearfe upon their bodies, by plunging from the hot to the cold baths; like criminals, who, doomed to receive yearly a cruel flogging, daily flog themfelves, to harden their backs.
I apprehend, however, from fome little knowledge of the people, that thefe human furnaces, and ice cellars, have a contrary tendency. Nature hates extremes, nor is to be brought by violent, but by flow degrees to endure them. The hardinefs acquired is only artificial, and confifts merely in fuffering an operation with eafe, which others could not bear at all.
The quick tranfitions of the northern climate, form of themfelves a natural bath.
It
It might be more prudent toendeavourto evade the foe, than to brave him.
A bath, moderately heated in Winter, is abfolutely neceffary in Ruffia, to preferve health j and what is very much connected with health, to preferve cleanlinefs. The natives content themfelves with boiling and freezing their bodies once a week, and, trulfing to this ablution, they care not how dirty they are the reft of the year. In fact, the baths, as they now ufe them, occafion dirtier habits than if they never Tifed them; for in this cafe, they might find the neceffity of wearing clean linen, and other parts of drefs, as well as of wafhing their hands and faces; and the heat of Summer would drive them into the rivers.
The cooling ftream, fo much celebrated
by all nations for the purpofes of health,
has no charms in the eyes of a Ruffian:
he nfes it indeed, but in an unnatural
way.   The ftoves in the houfes of the
common
common people, are always heated to a degree little fhort of that in the hot bath, without regard to the feafon; and, unlefs when the trial of hardihood comes on, they are in a conitant flew.
They fet cold and heat at defiance in the baths, and yet never go without doors in cold weather, unlefs when wrapped up in furs, which enable foreigners to go out too, as well as the natives: now, if the Ruffian cannot bear cold, with lefs clothing than foreigners, does not this prove the inefficacy of the baths? Nay, foreigners bear with more cold than the Ruffians, and with a drefs lefs warm, at their firft arrival here, and until their conftitu-tions are weakened by the ufe of ftoves, ill regulated in their heat.
The fheep-fkin is of vaft fervice to the back of a Ruffian. It is this, not he, that withftands the rigour of the climate: his very face is defended by a fhaggy beard.
I am
I am far from meaning to infmuate that the Ruffians are not a hardy race; I only lament that they hurt a natural ffrength and vigour of body, by ufing unnatural methods to increafe therm The children of the Ruffians chiefly are to be admired for undergoing the trial of the hot and cold bath; many, however, fall victims to this infernal practice. A few months' ufe, to thofe who pafs the ordeal, reconciles them to it: a few years' ufe, renders the bath necelfary to their exiff ence ; and at laft, it becomes their greatefr luxury—as among the higher claffes of men, to eat and drink fubftances of the hotteft nature, and then to fwallow ice creams, to cool their burning ftomachs. Nature at firft rejects thefe poifons, but at laft yields, and even grows fond of her deftroyer.
The eyes of a Ruffian gladden with rapture when he fpeaks of the bagnio; it is his ne plus ultra of mortal blifs. In the hot bath they are treated nearly in the
fame voluptuous manner as in the baths
of
of Afia; from which quarter, indeed, all their cuftoms are copied, or perhaps originally the fame; but with this difference in favour of fenfuality in Ruffia, that the lower ranks fometimes bathe together pro-mifcuoufly.
Before I ventured to truft to my own obfervations concerning the effect of the hot and cold baths, I made particular inquiry among the moft intelligent of the natives. They confeffed, that the immoderate ufe of the bath occafioncd feveral difeafes : they particularly mentioned the rheumatifm. Mr. Pallas, in a converfation which I had with him upon this fubjccf, corroborated this opinon. It is well known that the natives are foon cut off by illncis, which I attribute to thofe baths. All violent remedies have the effect of making us appear unexhaufted to the laft moment; all Nature is racked to force fymptoms of life, but the moment arrives when every fibre breaks, as at the fignal of death, and down they are hurled to the grave. A
Ruffian
Ruffian has no fear of confequences: he has little fear of any kind; and whatever happens, they fay, as in Afia, f* it is the will of God!" When Winter, or when Summer approaches, they only bring to their recollect:ion what drefs, what holidays, or what work is peculiar to the feafon. They face, unconcernedly, heat or cold, yet prefer warmth; and would feem to encounter Wintry fforms with the greater boldnefs, as they renew the pleafure of returning to their cabins.
The face of a Ruffian is defended by a fhaggy beard, and thofe who iTiave, tic a napkin around their cheeks in cold weather. From this cuftom, the Ruffians might be called effeminate, as they are called hardy, from going with their necks bare. In both cafes, we recognize the influence of cuftom.
The Ruffian recruit, taken from his
warm hut and fheep-fkin, is, in Winter,
the moft pitiable creature upon earth. 1
have
have feen them frequently trembling in their march through the ftrects, and hardly able to hold their mulkets, while their countrymen, dreffed in furs, were walking about at their eafe. The foldier ufes the baths, but the virtue of thefe does not appear, unlefs under a fheep-fkin : and he would prefer his old drefs to all the baths in Ruflia. This cruel treatment of the army muff occafion the death of thou-fands annually. Could there be the leaft impropriety in giving them a Winter drefs, lined with fur? Though this might not be well adapted for regiments marching againft an enemy, Winter is a time when Ruffia will feldom be troubled with any attack. Nothing can withftand this rigorous clime but warm furs j and any attempt to do it in another manner, would facrifice millions of lives. Humanity, as well as the beft policy calls upon the Ruffian Government to give a warmer drefs to the foldiers in Winter.
Early in Summer, when the weather is no way intemperate, either in refpect of I i heat
heat or cold, the Ruffians feel the approach of the evening, and quickly bury themfelves in furs—while foreigners are walking about in a flight drefs. In truth, the latter are too carelefs in this refpect, and the former, if poffible, too careful.
At the beginning and at the clofe of Summer, this climate is liable to very fud-den tranfuions, in the courfe of a few hours, and requires attention to proper cloathing.
The violent ufe of the hot and cold baths making the bulk of the Ruffians fickly, they have not the appearance of health : the women, in a greater degree than the men, have in their appearance every mark of debility and old age. Neither the one nor the other have that firm-nefs of flefh, that florid colour, that belongs to the lower ranks of the Englifh. The Ruffian women endeavour to make up for thefe, by painting their faces—a practice univerfal among them, from the Princefs to the cinder wench.
It is, perhaps, fuperfluous to obferve, that thofe who, by the nature of their occupations, are moft expofed to the cold, and have conftant exercife, enjoy the beft health: as the ftreet ifwofhics, or coachmen, who are not much in their houfes, and whofe employment does not admit of their dozing like others, and fweating away their exiftence.
The moral effects arifing from the violent ufe of the hot and cold baths, are as injurious to virtue and happinefs, as their phyfical operation is to bodily health and vigour.
The prefervation of beauty and of health
in women, preferves virtue in men. So
foon as they lofe thefe, they are no longer
the enchanting objects of defire. The
principle of pleafure is deftroyed by the warm baths—at the fame time that'they
nurture lafcivious inclinations, and early proftitution. Hence indifference, inattention, difguft, and many crimes difgraceful to human nature.
I i 2
LETTER XLIV.
Plan for Reformation in the Management of the Ruffian Ho/pita Is—Anecdote of M. Pleftcheyeff—-General Defcription of the Ruffian Empire, tts Produce and Commerce. —The Britifh Commerce with Rufjia ill conducted—Propofal for tranfplanting the whole Nation of Finlanders to the Ukraine.
St. Peteriburg, March, 1791 -
I have fubmitted the firft part of my paper upon the Ruffian Marine Hofpitals to Admiral Krufe, and to Her Imperial Majeffy's Phyfician, Doctor Rogerfon.— They have, as far as it goes, approved of it. Several of the Captains of the Ruffian fleet have likewife feen, and given it their approbation. I was lately introduced to Monf. Pleftcheyeff, Secretary to His Imperial Highnefs the Grand Duke.   I fUD~
mitred
mitted the plan to this Gentleman, who likewife did me the honour to approve of it. Monf. Pleftcheyeff, who is a Captain in the Ruffian fleet, has undertaken to have the plan tranflated into the Ruffian language, and to prefent it to Count Tcher-nicheff, Firft Lord of the Admiralty. It has been recommended to me to draw out a fecond part of obfervations, and to point out more particularly the evils I difcover in the management of the Marine Hofpi-tals. I have not now time to execute this, being on the point of fetting off for England. Having the materials with me, I fhall draw up the fecond part upon my arrival in London, and give it to Count Warontzoif, to tranfmit to his Court.— Both the naval and army hofpitais are in the fame wretched ftate. Since my plan has been approved of by the firft Officers and Phyficians in the Ruffian fervice, I am not without hopes that the Ruffian Government will take meafares for carrying the propofed reform into execution.
Monf
Monf. Pleftcheyeff was, I think he faid, for feven years on board the Britifh fleet, and latterly held the rank of Lieutenant. A picture in this Gentleman's drawing-room attracted my attention: it was the Jofs of the Centaur, on her paffage from the Weft-Indies to England. Monfieur Pleftcheyeff noticed the portraits of feveral Officers in the boat: " thefe," faid he, " I " am well acquainted with." lie mentioned their names, and particularly that of Captain Inglefield.
Monf. Pleftcheyeff is the Author of a Geographical Account of the Ruffian Empire, dedicated, by permiffion, to Her Imperial Highnefs the Grand Dutchefs. It contains a very exact account of all the provinces, their extent, produce, &c. As we have no book in our language which treats of this fubject, and as none are more capable, or could have written with greater accuracy than Monf. Pleftcheyeff, I lhould wifh to fee a tranflation of this work into Englifh.
This
This world of empire, extending from the Dwina and Nieper, its welfern boundaries, to Kamfchatka, and the Eaftern Ocean, a length of four thoufand miles, and from the Artie Pole to the Euxir.e and the Cafpian Seas, embraces one-fourth part of the circumference of the Globe! —It has every variety of climate, and is inhabited by every variety of nations. Upon the coafts of the northern feas, frozen during nine months of the year, the Laplanders, the Samoeides, the Oftiacs, and various other tribes, dwell in tents and caves, little removed in civilization from the brute creation: beyond thefe, towards the north, life itfelf goes out: the iflands in the northern ocean are uninhabitable. The Siberians, a mixture of Fins and Tartars, inhabit the northern and middle regions of the Mofcovite Dominions in Afia. Their country is in many places fruitful; but as no part of it borders upon a navigable fea, its productions are of the lefs value, and the people little known. The iron and furs of Siberia are the only articles which the Ruffian mer-Ii 4 chant
chant finds, as yet, capable of bearing the expence of fo long a conveyance to his warehoufes at Peterfburg.
The rivers of Siberia communicate with the Wolgaj the VVolga, by Idler rivers, and canals, with the Neva: but notwithstanding this convenience of water carriage, the vail diftance renders it impracticable to bring any other than the molt valuable articles of commerce, to the ports upon the Baltic. The fouthern parts of Afiatic Ruffia are, in a proportionate degree, more fruitful than the middle provinces; but they labour under the fame difadvantages, in point of commercial intercourfe,
Siberia, with all thefe local inconve-niencies, while her iron mines remain un-cxhauiled, is an invaluable acquitition to Ruffia; and is a ftrong barrier to the encroachments of the Chinefe and Tartars. The Ruffian Government is put to little expence in defending this barrier: a few fmall forts, garrifoned by irregufar troops from among the Coffacs, who chief-
ly fupport themfelves in fruitful and thinly inhabited plains, are at all times equal to the defence of this frontier.
Siberia is watered by many fine and navigable rivers, which afford a plentiful fupply of fifh to the natives; but as their flreams run towards the north, they are not attended with the advantage of a communication with a navigable fea.
European Ruffia has the Wolga upon the eaft, the Cafpian and Black Seas upon the fouth, the Nieper and Dwina, before-mentioned, and the Baltic, to the fouth and wefl.
The Wolga, rifing in the center of this empire, receiving in its courfe many rivers running from the Afiatic, as well as the European provinces, and difcharging itfelf into the Cafpian Sea, lays open to the Ruffian Merchants India and Perfia. The Nieper and Dwina have their fources in White Ruflia, formerly a part of the kingdom
dom of Poland, The Nieper empties his flream into the Black Sea, and from thence the navigation into every country bordering upon the Mediterranean is fhort and eafy. The Dwina, taking a contrary direction, runs into the Baltic, and with equal convenience opens a communication with Fi ance, Britain, Holland, and all the northern parts of Europe. It is to be remarked, too, that thefe rivers have their fources in the moft fertile provinces, as they vifit the richeft, in their long courfe towards the eaft, fouth, and weft, inviting the RulTians to induftry, to agriculture, and commerce.
The moft conliderable portion of this immenfe territory, in which are included the kingdoms of Kioff, Mofcow, Twere, and Novogorod ; the provinces of the Crimea, the Ukraine, Little and White Ruffia, and Livonia, are in the higheft degree fertile, producing every fpecies of corn, flax, hemp, and timber; from which laft article tar is extracted: and from the better
kinds
kinds is fupplied that vaft export of deal boards and mails from Peteriburg, Wy-burg, Narva, and Riga. Tiiefe, and other fpecies of Ruffian produce, employ yearly 1,000 fail of Britifh fhipping continually in exporting them! As yet, we have only had famples of the produce of Ruffia,— Two thoufand fail of Britifh veflels may yet be employed in it, and feveral hundreds, perhaps thoufands more of Britifh Factors, Merchants, and others, may be profitably and ufefully engaged, as well at the Ruffian fea~ports, as at the inland mercantile cities. I will illuff rate this fub-ject, when I come more particularly to treat of the Ruffian commerce. The few Factors we have yet in this immenfe empire—their wealth, their confequent pride and obftinacy, have the effect of making the Britifh importer pay upwards of 20 per cent, higher for his goods, than if no fuch monopoly exiff ed; befides fubjecting our commerce with Ruffia to numberlefs inconveniencies, and even creating mifun-derflandings between the Enghlh and Ruffians
fians here, and likewife between the two Courts.
The numerous herds, particularly of the Ukraine, fupply the great quantities of tallow annually imported into Britain and other parts. So plentiful are provifions in the Ukraine, that it is a common practice to kill bullocks, merely to obtain their hides and fat, which is procured by fqueezing the whole careafs, in a machine conflructed for the purpofe; what remains in the machine, after this operation, is thrown away, or ufed as manure. But indeed this Paradife is fo thinly peopled, that the farmers are not always at the trouble of fpreading manure: they prefer removing to a new fpot, which the plough has never yet torn, and has been rendered fertile by the rotting of fuccef-five crops of tall grafs, for centuries. The herds, although numerous, are unable to confume one- fiftieth part of the rich clover produced in every fpot; and it is trodden under foot, or let on fire, by vagrant hordes, or by indolent huibandmen.
Ace-
A celebrated Writer recommends to the Ruffian Government, to people the Ukraine, by tran("planting thither the natives of the frozen mores of Siberia, (£ which,1' fays he, <£ are of no fervice either to them-,c felves, or to mankind, in their prefent " fituation."
Experience has proved, that the northern are, of all nations, the molt attached to their country; and of all northern nations, the barbarous inhabitants of Lapland, and the northern parts of Siberia, feel this amor f patriot the ftrongeft.   They cannot exift out of their native deferts.   Every individual among them, who had been brought away by order of the Danifh, Swedifh, or Ruffian Governments, actually died of grief!   The moft gentle treatment, the moft flattering diftinctions feemed to have no other effect:, than to raife in their minds a fad contraft between luxury and polite-nefs, on the one hand; and rough but innocent homelinefs on the other. Whv then envy them their icy mountains and
in-
inclement Ikies ?   Nor is it good philofo- • phy to force them from all that makes them happy, though it were not attended with fuch fatal confcquences.
The only method to effect that plan, would be the cruel policy of depriving the parents of their children, before they had yet imbibed a love of kindred, or their country ! Might it not be better to transplant the whole nation of Finlanders from the fhoi es of the Baltic ? A nation already accuffomed to agriculture, naturally induftrious, and of difpofitions the very | reverfe of: thofe of the more northern hordeSjfwhich make them abhor the idea of aiding their fimple, indolent manner of tt& From what 1 know of the Finlanders, they might be eafily prevailed upon to part with their rocks and fand, for the rich foil of the Ukraine.
It is true that Ruffia, bound by former treaties with Sweden, cannot remove the Finlanders, without breaking through fuch
treaties:
treaties: but they have made war upon each other, contrary to thefe treaties; and to remove the Finlanders to the Ukraine, would be the moll reafouable breach of faith that ever Ruflia, or Sweden, or any other Potentate or Power committed. The inclination of the Finlanders to agriculture, would make them prefer a country where they could live, to one where they may ftarve.   Had they no inclination to agriculture, it would be as difficult to tranfplant them as to tranfplant the Of-tiacs.
The execution of this plan would, befides, anfwer a grand political purpofe.— The Finlanders are attached to the Swedes, from fimilarity in religion, and from being formerly the fuhjecls of Sweden : Ruffia, therefore, by fending the Fins to a better country, and replacing them with Ruffians, would ffrengthen her frontier, and likewife relieve the poor Finlanders from that jealoufy and ill-ufage which they now fuller from petty tyrants in office, particularly
cularly in the time of war between Ruffia and Sweden.
It might, befides, banifh every idea whicli Sweden does, or may entertain, with regard to the recovery of Finland in Ruffia, and thereby prevent thofe contents which may henceforth originate from fuch ideas.
The Ruffian Empire in Europe, con-Ming of the kingdoms and provinces above enumerated, and fituated, for the moft part, in the beft climates, is confi-derably larger than any other in this quarter of the globe, and daily increafing in agriculture, population, and commerce.
APPENDIX.
Words common to the Scotch, Icelanders, and Danes, fdefied by Profejfor Thorkelyn, of Copenhagen*
A.
Althy an oath. Auld, old.
Aught, eight, polTeflion. Awn, the beard of barley, Aivnie, bearded.
-N. B. The termination of the Scotch adjectives of ln9 as foughtin, fought, are mere Icelandic.
B.
&ae9 Icel. Bar, a farm. Ba, Bane, way, Icel. Bane, Bane, bone. Bairn, Barn, a child.
K k Bank.
Bank> a beam. Bad, I did bid.
Backlins, coming back, returning.   Icel. Back-
lendis. Be, let be, ceafe. Big, to build. Biggin, building. Beth, both.
Bit, little.   Dan. Bitte, Smaa. Billow, Icel. Bllgia, a wave. Bicker, a wooden diih. Birkie, a clever fellow. Bing, a heap of grain.
Blink, a fmiling look; or fometimcs to fhine, as
a blink of the fun. Blather, bladder.
Blajl, Icel. Blaftr, Dan. Bleft, give me a blaft of your pipe, i. e, give me a tune of your pipe. Blcjjh, blefling.
Blyth, Icef Blidr, fweet, humane, cheerful.
Boll, Icel. i>V>///, a meafure of corn.
Braiv, fine, hand fome.
Brae, the ilope of a hill,
Braid, broad.
Brawlie, very well.
Breaken, breaking,
Bure, did bear.
Burn, a rivulet.
Brufi, to burft. ^
(  499 ) C.
Carle, a flout old man.
Carline, a flout old woman.
Chicl, a veflel of about ten or twenty tuns*
Claith, cloth.
Cleed, to clothe.
Cove, a cavern.
Crave, to require, demand*
D.
Din, noife. Icel. dtnr. Dought, was able. Icel. Dugade. Drag, to pull by force. Druken, in the habit of drinking.
Elf, Iceh ^//r, a middle being. Ennu, in Caithnefs, moreover.
F,
Fand, did find. Flede, .enmity. Fells, German, felt.
Fell, the flefh under the fkin, a level field, upon the top, or upon the fide of a hill.
Ficnde, Dan. Flende, and vulgarly, Fienden, the Devil.
Flitter, to vibrate, like the wings of fmall bird?,
K k 2 For-
Forbye, befides.
Forfoicbin, for/aim, worn out, fatigued* Forgie, to forgive. Forgejhtj jaded with fatigue. Frae, from.
Fro-cff, to and fro, off and to. Fur, a furrow.
G.
Gae, to go.   Gaed, went,   Gaen, or ^vr;^, gone2
G^z/«, going. Gael, or Gj/<?, way or road. Gate, a ftreet. Garmb, rags.
G#r, Icel. Gera, to force one to do any thing. Gie, to give.   Gied, gave.   Glen, given. Gimmer, a ewe, from one to two years old. Gin, againff.
Glowr, to flare, to look anxioufly. Gore, the blood of the heart. Greet, to fhed tears. Gripe, Icel. griep. Groufome, loathfomely grim. Grove, Dan. Grove. Gnde, good.
H.
Ha*, a fmk or mire, in moffes or moors.
Bali,
Hald, to hold.   Halden, or holden, as land held
or holden by or of a perfon. Hale, Dm. Heel.   Icel, Heill, whole, likewife
mended, or recovered. Hame, home. Herry, to plunder. Hct, hot.
Heeze, to elevate, to hoift.
Hov'd, fwelled.
Hove, to fwell.
Hojl, to cough, to hoop.
I.
/, in.
Ill-willie, Ill-natured.
K.
Ken, to know.   Kent, Kend, knew. Kin, kindred.
Kirk, Icel. Kirkia.   German, Kirk, a church.
L.
Lad, a common fellow, a fervant.   Icel. Lid. Lang, long. Laigh, low.
Lalland, Loland, Lowland, the low country. Let, a hindrance, to hinder, to flop. Icel. Letia-Likwake, the fervice or ceremony in keeping a
dead body three nights in a room lighted with
caudles.
Ught%
Lith, any joint of the members of the body. Icel. Li dr.
Loofy Lof, the palm of the hand.   Looves, the
plural of Loofi Loup, Icel. Hlaup, and Laup, to leap.
M.
Maen, look.   Icel. Mane.
Maer, more.
Maejl, moft.
Mai, to grind corn.
Man.   I man do, i. e. I muft do.
Mark, Icel. Merkie, to obferve.
Maun, muft.
Min, to remember.
Mikel, Mukle, Meikle, great.
Mudding, Sutherlandihire dialect. Dan. Moding.
Mjfel, myfelf.
N.
Na, Nae, no. Nit, a nut.
Norland, the north country. Nowte, horned cattle.   Icel. Naut. Dan. Nitf/, and AToot.
P.
Prf^K, Icel. Pnoft, a pin. Trent, print.
Ream, crenm. Reave, to rob. Rcekc, fmoke. Rig, a ridge.
Roofe, to flutter, to praife.
S.
Sae, fo.
Sair, fore; much or fore furprifed. Dan. Saare
Forjkrcecket, Sang, a fong. Sark, a ihirt. Set, felf.
Scone, a kind of flat bread, Sma, fmall.
Smack, to kifs, to tafte;  Icel. Ec Smeck'u Dan* Smager.
Smoor'd, Dan. Smored, annointed.
Sned, to cut off.
Sowp, a fpoonful.
Spae, a prophecy, to prophecy.
Spier, to afk, to inquire.   Spiered, inquired*
Spreckled, fpotted.
Stane, and Stein, a flonc.
*$tar£, ftout, ftrong.
Steeve, firm.
S/o<:£, the leg or ftem of a plant.
Stot,
Stat, a young Bullock.   Dan. An Stoud. Slurt, trouble, to moleft.   Dan. Befturket. Strae, ftraw—to die a Jlrae death, i. e. to die in bed.
N. B. Our forefathers lay commonly upon flraw, inftead of feather-beds, and from that cuftom formed this phrafe.   The beds of the poor people in Scotland are ftraw. Swain, a fervant employed in agriculture. Icel.
Szveinn.
Sward, Icel. Swaurdr, growing grafs, grafs growing on watery places, and collecting a ftratum of earth.
Swinge, to beat, to whip.
Swollen, Icel. Sollen, fwelled.
T.
Tangel, Icel. Paungull Dan. foengel, fea weed.
Thole, to fuffer, bear, endure.   Icel. Thola.
Thairms, and Pharms, the fmall guts. The bands furrounding the rims of .Scotch fpinning-wheels are called phairm bands.
Thud, to make noife, by ftriking, as with a hammer, againft any thing.
Thrang, throng, a croud.
throw, to contradict; alfo to twift, as in making of ftraw, or other ropes.
Threeteen, thirteen*
Til,
Til, to go till him, u * to go to him.
Timmer, timber.
Tine, to lofe.   27k/, loft-
Toom, empty.
Tout, the blaft of a horn.
Tow, a rope.
Town, a hamlet, a farm town.
Toyte, to totter like old age, or like a child.
Trow, to believe, true.   Troth, it is truth.
Twa, two.
Twin, two.
Tyke, a dog; but generally applied to a large furly dog.
u.
Unhnd, unknown.
W.
Wad, Icel. Vedia, to lay bets or wagers. Wad, Icel- Fed, Pignus, Cautio, a pledge. Wadfete, Icel. Vedfetia, & fetia at veda, to mortgage-Woe, woe.
Wair, to lay out money, to expend. Wale, choice.
Wald, chofe, chofen, felecfed. Wame, the belly.
Wan ken, to awake.   Icel. Fakna, Dan. Vaagnc.
L1 Wat,
Wat, Icel. Ec Welt.   I wat, I know. I wafne,
I do not know. Wauket, Icel. Aukit, the proceis of thickening,
particularly clothes. Winnock, a window. Whare, where..
Wondf Dan. Ondt, Icel. Wondr, live, or lived, //-to, ufcd, or accuftomed to do.   I am tt»ff
or ufual time, /fj'/ft', blame, to blame.
y.
Ytde> Chriflaias.
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