/• ; :• (• j -sr' ."s ly^gwj^^' • • mrr-- ic laz f-^iriji^ž/i^ ijftW^jfe^"jcžt :. ; Ji.. , , vJ .-fi t./i Si« _2T>tf Jjfl V^i'-^i-V'' '"y.-'-l • -t... ;': ^ ' V- 4.) NARRATIVE OF THE SMBjSSr TO CHINA. A S the objedt of this wort is to fiirriif]i the reader \vith information refpedling China, fhall fay little trcfpefting the proceedings of the cinbally in its courfe thither ; it may, however, be nccelTary to offer a fcvT introdii(Si:ory remarks. The difadvaiitages uncter which European countries trade with China are great, and the Britifl> nation, which has felt thefe difadvantages In a peculiar manner, eon-ceived the idea of atteinpting their removal. As tlie ex-iftence of the government of Great Britain depends on its comiTicrce, aiul as from the rifmg importance of the United States of America, and the progrefs of civil and i-eligious liberty in Europe, many of the old channels muit be in a manner fhut with refpea to Brilifh manu-faaures, the Englidi government adlcd with the ftrideft view to its own intereft, in planning the embaily to China for that purpofc. Some intimations were certainly given to the court of London that an ambaffador would be well received and treated with on a commercial ground ; but that fuch information was ever alltho^ife^^ by the court at Pe-kin is B foiTiewhat more than doubtfiif, and from circiimft.inccs we are inciined totliiiik thiit the court of St. James's bc-cainc iti this cafe, as in many others, the dupe of foms artful and inlcreited fpeculatill:. However, in 178B the honourable Colonel CatHcart was invefted with the charačler of Miiiillur from this country to the court of China: ihc Colonel died on his p'iiragc, and as miniftcrs -wtvh their accußomal faguciiy had negle£lcd to maku any providon for this event, the million with which he was entriifti;d may be faid to have been buried with him. However, as fuccefsjmight prove highly advantageous to the iioard of Contrmd, and liie Court of Direčlors of the hidii Company, if to no one clfe, the charadler of Anibalfador to China was revived in the pcrfon of Lord Macartncy, a nobleman certainly well qualified for the talk, (ircat cxpenfes were incttrred, and many exertions made to render this embafly worthy of the country from which it was fent; but, perhaps, after all that was done, we lliall not err in laying, it was better calculated to fueceed with a nation of Indians, or wiili u petty African Prince, than with the govtriiment of China ; for if the court of Pe-kin was to be fwayed by fplcndoiir, mueh more ought to have been (loiie to have accomplilhed it than was done —but fuppoling the Chi-nefe government to luve ferioudy meditated commercial arrangements, iefs trick would, periiaps, have fucceedcd better—be this as it may, the fuccels was what might Jiave been expct^ed, difgrace and contempt—tiie gentlemen of the embalfy had a journey to Pe-kin, and realized the fpirit of a dillich written on a certain monarcfi and his army—" March'd up the hill, and then niarch'd down '' again," As wc lliali ill the couvfc of oni- narrative have occafioa to mention in particular feveral of the gentlemen who formed the fuitc of JEarl Macartney, before we procecd it may be proper to prerent the reader -vvith a general lift of tlieir perfons and fituations; Sir George Staunton, Bart. Secretary to the EmbafTy ; Lieut. Coi. Benfon, Commandant of the AinbalTador's Guard ^ Lieut. H. W. Parifli, of the Royal Artillery ; Lieut. J. Crewe ; Mr. Achcfon Maxwell, | John Secretaries to the Mr. Edward Winder, J Aiiibairador; Mr. Baring, A ffillant Secretary, outward-bound; fon of Sir Francis Baring, Bart. Dr. Gillan, Phyfician and Philofopher to the EmbafTy; Dr. Scott', -Phyfician and .Surgeon to the Embaffy ; Mr. Barrow, Comptroller of the Honfehold ; Dr. Dinwiddie, Mechanift, Condudor of mathematical and aftroiiomieal prcfents; Mafter George Staunton, fon of Sir George Staunton, Bart. Thomas Hickey, Portrait Painter ; Mr. Alexander, Draftfman ; Mr. Huttner, Preceptor to Maflcr Staunton j Mr. Plumb, Interpreter, his excei-lency's servants, &c. A Steward, and an under do, A Carpenter and Joiner^ 2 Valets dc Chanibre, A Saddler, A Cook, A Gardener, 2 Couriers, A Taylor, A Footman, A Watchmakcr, A Baker, A Mathematical InRru- A Band of fijc Mnficians, ment-maker, belonging to sik g. staunton. a Servants, i Gardener; wliicli, with Mr. Crewe's Valet de Chanibre, foiined ß 2 (>ic whole of the domeftic eftablilhment, exccpt three lives of China, who went out from England. militarv establishment. ao Men of the Royal Artillery ; lo Ditto nth Light Dragoons; 20 Ditto drafted from the additional Companies of In-: fantry, at Chatham. ships emtloyed to take the embassy to china. The Lion, of 64 guns, Sir Eraf. Gower, Commander; Tlic HindoHan Eaft Indiaman, Capt. William Mackin-_ toft, Commander ; The Javkali brig for a tender, manned by officers and men from the Lion. ^ list of the ofkicees on i30aed the lion. Sir Erafmus Gower, Knight, Commander ; Mr. Cambell, ift. Lieutenant; Mr. Whitman, 2d, ditto; Mr. Atkins, 3d. ditto ; Mr. Cox, 41h. ditto—died at Chufan ; Mr. Ommaney, ading Lieutenant; Mr. Jackfon, Marter of the Lion ^ Mr. Saunders, Mafter's-mate ; Mr. Tippctt, ditto ; Mr. Sillies, ditto ; Mr. Lo'.vc, ditto; Mr. Itopcr, ditto ; Mr. Warren, diuo, fon of Dr. Warren, promoted t« be acting Lieutenant; Mr. Kent; Mr. Chapman, appointed Gunner, vice Corke, deceafed ; Right Hon. Lord Mark Kerr, Midlliipman, promoted to be aciiiig Lieutenant ; Hon. Wm. Stuart, Midfiijptnan ; Mr. Bromcly, ditto ; Mr. Swinboiirnc, do. Mr. Kelly, do. Mr. Dükes, do. Mr. Trollope, do. Mr, Hey wood, do. JVIr- Hickey, dü. Mr. Thompfon, do. Mr. Waller, do. (died at Wampoai) Mr. Beaumont, do. ^returned home from An^srs Point, for the recovery of his healtlt;) Mr. Snipe, do, Mr. Wools, do. Mr. Montague, do. Mr. Chambers, do, Mr. Scott, do. . Mr. Bridgeman, do. Mr. Perkins, do. Mr. Sarradine, do. Mr. Tothill, Purfer, (died at Cochin China Mr. Weft, Captain's Clerk ; Mr. Niitt, Surgeon ; Mr, Anderfon, Chief-mate; Mr. Cqoper, fecond ditto ; Mr. Thomas, third ditto ; Mr. Humphries, Schooltnafler. Every neccffary arrangement being made, the ambaf, fador and his fulte arrived on board the Lion at Spithcad, on Friday the 21 ft of September, 1792- and on Tiiefday the 25th, at five o'clock in the afternoon, we to the favagc dirpofition of thefe people, this event gave :uklittonal, though melancholy, teftimony. The lalt rites were paid to the body of the deceafed with the utinolf decency and rc-fpeft ; and the feelings of the whole Ihip's contpany on the occalion were the bed eulogium on his charailcr and conduct. l'aßlng a variety of iflands, without any occurrence worthy of remark, we came to anchor in Piilo Condore I Bay, May i6. Soon after our arrival, a party of geii-tleincrij accompanied by one of the Chlciefc interpreters, went on lliore. Some of the natives met us on tlic beach, with whom wc proceeded till we came at a fmall dif-tance to a village of bamboo huts ; one of winch was the refiduDcc of the chief, whofe authority extended over tlie whole iHand. Like the reft, his habitation was formed of bamboo, raiftd on four pofts, a few feet from the jjxouiid. Here we found feveral natives of Cochin China, who wore no other drcfs but a piece of linea round their waills, and a black turban on their heads. The chief was habited in a loofe black gown, and a pair of black (ilk trowftrs. He was alfo decorated with a filver cord thrown over his flionlder, from which a fmall bag of elegant workmanflup was fufpendcd. In common with the reft, he wore a turban, but no ihoes. He appeared to by the objeift of very great rcfpeft. Near this palace, if it may be fo called, flood th« temple. Externally, it refemblcd the other buildings ^ but the infide was adorned with various military weapons of Europe, particularly fome old hre arms, of which they evidently did not know the ufe, and fecmed toconfider them only as objefts of veneration. The diicharge of a muflcet againfl a tree excited tha moft lively alarm ami aftonifliment. They eagerly examined the place where the ball entered ; they even contrived to extraft it, and then prefcntcd it to each otiier, with the moil vifible emotion. Havin^r filtered into a treaty with the chief for a ftipply of buffaloes, poultry, and fruit, with which he was to hiruilh us the next day, we were regaled with rice und fißi. Finding that cocoa nuts would be acceptable, he immediately ordered fome to be procured for T!ie dexterity thefe people Ihewed in climbing the 'fees that produced them, is artonilhing. On our rc- 8 narrative of the turn to the fliip, we obfervcd caves on the bcacli vefy ingeiiioiiny coiiftruftctl. Piilo Condore Is but thinly peopled. The means of fubfiftcnce is difficult ; and popiilalioii of courfc muft be influenced thereby. This illand Is fubje£l to the King of Cochin China. To our utter aftonifhment, on landing next morning, to receive the ftipulatcd fupply of provilions, we foiniJ the village defertcd, and every moveable carried off. A letter in Chtnefe charaders, left in the hut of the chief, explained the reafons of this fndden arid Unexpc£tevith otular demon- to which wa« affixed a laki, on which were certain Chincfe charaders. This wine polfeiies a good body, but the tafte is (harp^ and unplcafant ; in its colour it refembles Lifbon. In pafTtng feveral populous towns, on both fides of the river, the foldiers quartered or refident there> wer» drawn up on the banks to falute the Ambaifador, wliilc ■crowds of fpeflators filled every acceflihle fpot of view. The uniform of aChincfe foldierdcfervesa defcription. It confiüs of black nankeen trowfers, ov,er which a kind of cotton llockings are drawn. Tlieir flioes, which art alfo made of cotton, are extremely clumfy, broad at tlie toes, and furniflied with immoderately thick foles. From tlie top of their trowfers is fufpended a purfe, ■which contains their money. They have neither rtiirts nor waiftcoats, but only a large black nankeen mantle V'ith Inofe lleeves, turned up and fringed with red-co-Joured cloth of the fame fabric. A broad girdle con-iineg this loofe robe, ornamented ta front with n kiai Dz of plate, faid to be a cotnpofition of rice. A pipe, and bag for tobacco, hangs from tlus girdle on one fide, and a fan on the other. Thefe appendages, and a fupply of tobacco, are allowed by tlic Emperor. The Chinefe troops were always, when we faw them, drawn up in finglc ranks, with a great number of colours or ftandards, made chiefly of green filk, with a red border, and ornamented with golden charačters. They wear their fwords on the left fide, with tlie point forwards, fo that, wlien tliey draw them they put their hands behind their backs, and iinlheath them without being Immediately perceived; a manoeuvre which they execute with great dexterity, and which is well adapted for the purpofes of attack. Under their left arm is flting a bow; and on their backs is himg a quiver, generally containing twelve arrows, others arc armed with matchlocks of a very ruRy appearance. On all occalions when the Chinefc troops are called to do military honours, a temporary arch covered with filk is placed at each end of the line, in which the mandarins lit till the perfon to be faluted appears, when they come forward and make their appearance. Near thefc arches arc three fniall fwivels about two feet and a half in length, wliich arc fixed in the ground with tlie muzzle pointing to the air: thefe arc difcharged as the perfon to be honoured paffes the mandarin at the end of the line. This method of jfiring falutes the Chinefe have adopted to prevent accidents, obferving, that a loaded gun Ihould never be levelled but at their enemies. In the management of artillery and fire arms, it is not to be expe£led that Europeans can derive much improvement from the inhabitants of the ealt; tlie caution tlicy employ on occalions of rcjoicing to prevent accidents from them might give the vvifeit nations a leflbn; for we well know that melancholy, and frequently fatal accidents arc occalioned from the want of fimilar regulations, on our days of public rejoicing. Tiic foldiers have a tuft of hair on the back of their head, which is plaited down the back, and tied at the extremity with a riband. The reft they fliave. They cover their heads with Hiallow ftraw hats, bound under the chin, and decorated with a red plume of camel's hair. According to our ideas, there is liuLe military appearance in the compdfition of a Chiiiefc foldier's drefs. Ill falling lip the river, wc faw numbers of ruftic habitations, chiefly conftruöed of mud, with fome few of lloiic. The country women, with the curiofity natural to their feXj advanced to fee the procelTion. They fecmed to walk with difHculty ; having their feet and arides bound with a red fillet to confine their growth; and as this pra£ljce commences with their infancy, it b afloniihiiig tbat they can walk at all. Their front hair is combed back on the crown of the head, clubbed, and decorated with artificial flowers and filvcr pins ; the hind hair is then brought up, and fecured under the club. Exccpt thcfe decorations of the head and the bandages on their feet, the drcfs of the Chinefc women differs but Utile from tliat of the foldiers. Our progrcfs was by no means rapid ; but wc were every moment attraded by fome new objedts, which prevented our wifli for greater expedition. In the courfe of one day's failing, which could not excecd twenty-four miles, we palfcd iiich an imrneiife number of junks^ and faw fiich crowds of people, as would almolt exceed belief did we attempt calculation. Independent of the moving fcene, the river itfelf, fpactous and meandering, was a noble object. ; and the diverfity of its banks, and the views whicli occafionally opened over a rich and varied country, Would have afforded a fcope to the ir.oll glowing pencil. 22 'Narrative of tHE On tlie loth, AVe for the firfttime faw the plantations of the tea-tree. This plant, which, from being originally an itfelefs luxury, has now become a neceirary iil fö many countries, we Jiave before defcrlbecl, a repetition here would therefore be needlefs. Plentiful as tea appears to be in this province, it is not within the reach of the lower claifes, as the crew of the jimks were glatl to receive our tea leaves, which they dried, and then boiled, to procure their favourite beverage. Tea is (inivcrfally ufed in China without fugar ; and as the natives, parti, cularly the lower orders, frequently dry and reboil the leaves for fome weeks fuccefllvely, they unite economy with gratification. We this day pafTed feveral populous villages, comporeJ of very neat houfes built of brick of one ftory, from every one of which the Ambalfador received the fame honours which liave been already defcribed. The crowds of people were beyond all calculation., and imprelTed oi) our minds an exalted idea of the Lmmenfe population of the Chinefe empire. Nor was the number of junks that appeared on the river lefs aftonifhing ; being fometimes fo numerous, that the water was covered with them. On the morning of the iith we approached the city Tyen-Sing. The banks of the river here prefenteJ fields of millet and rice, and the number of fpeftators that met us, both tn veflbls and by land, was as great as before. For nearly two miles we obferved a range of fait heaps, difpofed in coUmms, and covered with matting i but whether manufaflured on the fpot, or for what pur-pofe fuch a prodigious ijuaiitity was collefted, we wer» not able to alcertain. The noife and iliouts of an innumerable multitude of people attended our entrance into the city, Vvhich is a very populous and extenfive place. Th* iöufes are built of brick, and are in general tvfQ ttori«« high, covered with tiles; but the Mfant of rfgiilarity offends the eye ; and the ftreets are fo uncommonly nar-^■ow, that not more than two perfdiis can walk a-breaft. Soon after our arrival, the Amballador, who was received with military hoooiirs, went in full form to vilit the chief mandarin. His palace is in the centre of a garden i it is large and lofty, paliladoed in front, gilt and painted in a very fanciful form. Even the external walls are decorated with paintings ; and the roof is coatcd with that briglu yellow varnifli we have often noticed. Here the ambalFador and fiiite partook of a cold collation, at which all the dainties of the country were col-le£led, particularly confeitioiiary. A play was alfo performed as a mark of refpc£l and attention to Lord Macartney, The theatre is a fquarc building, built principally of wood, and ereiled in the front of the mandarin's palace. The ftage is fm rounded with galleries ; and the whole was decoratcd with a prQ-fufion of ribands, and filken dreamers of various colours. The theatrical exhibitions conftfted chiefly of Tcprcfcntations of imaginary battles, with fwords, fpears, and lances; in which the performers acquitted themfelves with an aftonifhing aöivity. The fccncs were beautifully gilt and painted, and the drqfles of the adlors were ornamented in conformity to the fcenery. The exhibition was varied with an agreeable variety of very curious deceptions by flight of hand, theatrical machinery, and that fpecies of agility which we call tinnbling; wherein the performers executed their parts with fuperior addrefs and aäivity. A band of mulic, confilling of wind inftruments, enlivened the fcene. The novelty (if which pleafed the eye, rather than delighted the ear. The female charaQers were performed by enmichs, for the delicacy of the Chinefe would be fhockcd at the public exhibition of their women. When the AmbafiTador and attendants returned on board, he ivas fainted by three pieccs of i'mall ordnance, fuch an immenib number of people accompanied thenv in every kind ot conveyance capable of floating, that accidents appeared inevitable. We were witiiefs to one, wliere partüf the deck of an old junk giving way, from the enormous prefFurc of fpečlators, configned feveral perfons to a watery grave, A very liberal fupply of p rovi fi on s had been fent us before we embarked, together with a fupply of wine fu-perior to that we have before noticed : from the fuper-abundance of our provlfions we entertained the crews ■who navigated ihe junks ; thus converting the hofpirality pf tlie country to the benefit of its natives, for which mark o£ attention they teftiiicd a due fenfe of gratitude. A prefent having been tnadc of three parcels of coloured fiik by the mandarin Tyen-Sing, to the enibafiy, Mr. Maxwell, by the direöion of the Ambaßador, dif-tribiitcd thern among the fuitc ^ but it not being podible; for every one to have an equal flia»e, it was determined, flitter two pieces were diftributcd to each of the gentlc-mefi, that the remainder fhoukl be difpofcd of by drawing lots, by which means every pcrfon, whether mechanic, fervant, mufician, or foklier, iiad an equal chance. The weather had been excetilvely hoi-for fome days ; and at an early hour on the morning of the 12th of Augnft we -n ere vifiltd by a mo" tremendous ftoiin of thunder, lightning, and rain, which is not unufiial in tfiis climate. It was found neceffary, during feveral hours in this day, to employ men to tow the junks along. In China, numbers folloVv this laborious vocation, to which they ere cal'cd when the wind or tide fails. A rope is fixed to the mail, and another to the head of the junk. 1 hefe trc of a )f:ngth proportionable to the breadth of the river, and are fixed, one at each end, to a Itick of about thirty I EMBASSY TO CHINA. iiit hcs ioiig, Tliis is thrown over the head, and rcfts ön tJic Urcnit, furcnlng a kiini nf hariitfa-. Every dtaüghtf-nian is furniflied with a' fimibr apparatus, and when all are ready, the leader gives the I'lgnal lo advance ; thcjr ad in concert, and procced with a nieafurcd ftep, which IS regulated by a kind uf mufical tone, Conilaiitly repeated. ' The fatigue thele iifeful drudges undergo, would appear exccHivc to any but the Chinefe ; they wade ihrbngh marfliy banks, and (talk through ihuddy foil, wilK a perfcvcrance that claims at oncc our pity and adinlratioii. Next day, when we received tlie ufual fiipply of provifions, we fet about cooking them' ourlclvcs; being perfedly ilifgiifled with Cblnefe filthuicfs In regard to their viaiials. With rerpc£t to rlcc, however, they dc-lerve the pruifc of clcanlincrs. They waili it well in cold waler, and drain it throngli a iieve, then throw it into boiling water, and when pulpy, lake it out with i ladle, and put it into another clean vefTel, where it is fiifFered to remain till it bccomes quite white and dry. In this form it is ufed for bread. Indeed, boiled rice, and foniGtimes millet, with vegetables, fried in oil» «-onflitiitc the ufual food of the lower clafs. They cat regularly every four hours of the d^y, and feldom varj their humble rcpaft. Their tables are about a foot liigh ; on them a large veifel of rice is placed, and each perfoa, fitting on the floor, helps himfetf into a finall bafun. The vegetables are taken up with a couple of (ihop-üicks, and eaten with the rke. On particular days of rejoicing or facrificc, a more genial diet is ufcd, but feldom on any other occafion. Thtt ufual beverage is a weak infufion öf tea. Aniid the new and extraordinary things whicb in flieh rapid fucccllion caught the view, perhaps the number of the inhabitants ibat every where prtfe.iiied ttjemfsWes, £ was the nioft wonderful: it may be thought to border on the marvellous, but it is a ccrtain fa6t that we could not p;ifs fewer than four thoufand junks in the courfe of tills day. On the 14th the weather was extremely hot and fultry, and the mufquitos fo troublefome, as to prove a very painful interruption to our repofe. Wc continued to pafs extenfivc fields of millet and rice, and the country maintained its character for fertility, cnltivation, and abundance ; though in fevcral parts it afTumcd a more varied and irregular appearance than we had yet feen. In the forenoon we paffed a large town callcd Clio-tung-poa, pleafantly fituatcd on the hanks of the river. The houfes are of brick, but moftly only one flory in height ; walls arc ereiled in the front of them, over which we difcovered a great number of women viewing ihe junks as they paifcd. The fpe£lators, whom curio-fity had led to the banks of the river, were, " as ufu'al, in prodigious numbers. Soon after leaving Clio-tuug-pon, we came to a fork of the river, over the lateral branch of wliich there wert two bridges of two archcs, con(lru£lcd with the appearance of mucli architectural ability. At a fmall diltanc'e wc faw the ruins of another bridge of one arch, odginally built of hewn ftone, which bore the appearance of Eii-ropcaii mafonry. At a fmall diftance, on a gentle eminence, ilood tl)s palace of ^he mandarin, built of flone, tvvo flories high, in a pleafing ftyle of archite£lurc, with a flight of ftcps afccnding to the door. At f)x o'clock in tlic evenltig we came to anchor near the fiiore, and in a lliort time after the grand mandarin of Tycn-fing, efcortcd by a numerous'train of attendants, came to pay his refpečts to the AmbafTador ; a troop of men preceded him, vvhu were employed »n flioiiting aloud as tliey came on, in order to notify his approacli. Tins party was followed by two niea carrying large filk umbrellas, with pendent ciirtains of the fiime itiatcrials, to llielter the palankin from the rays of the fun ; then followed a large baud of ftandani-bearers, who were fuceeeded by foot folJiers. The manciarln in his pilaakin appeared next, atid a large el'cort of cavalry doled the procellipn. The mandarin of Tyen-fing remained with Lord Ma-carlaey about an liour ; and, on iiis return, the proccf-lion was rendered more brilliant by a great nmnber of people bearing lamps and torches. On flic isth, the heat (UU continued to be eütreir.e, Init the coiintry Hill prefented an equally fertile appear-auec, and the large fields of corn which ive palled, appeared to be in crop and cultivation equal to any which iire the boall of England. \Vc this day paffed a larg? plantation of tea, where there was a vaft number of boxes ranged in order, for the purpofc of packing the tea. The banks of the river became more and more diverii-fiud ; and the alternate view of extenfive miCadows, luxuriant fields, and beatitiful gardens, did not fufftr the .gratification of the eye, or the mind, to be for a momcijt fufpeiiiied. Fn the evening we walked along the flmre ; the cora ivas alnioft ripe, agriculture appeared in its inofl pleafing 'orm, and copious plenty feemed to vie with the immenfe population of this aftoniOiing empire, As we continued on our voyage, the villages becamc inoif: numerous and populous, until we arrived at the city of Tong-tchew on the i6th of Auguft jn the afternoon, ar\dhere our voyage ended. Soon after our tirrival, the condudting mandarin, ac- ttinipii^f^d bv tord Macartney and Sir Gears'^ Stauntgn, £ ^ went iin fhore to infpeft the place vi-hlcb tlic Chincfc ha'-l prepared for the landing tlie prcfents aiicl haggage. It contained about the fpace of aa acrc, fenccd in -vvith matting, and fnrnillied with long fhtds made of uprights nt' wood, covcrcd with' matting, in order to prevent the packages from being injiircd by damp. The ground was entirely covcrcd with mats, and the place well guarded on all fides by mandarins and folJiers. A biiilding, termed a temple, was allotted for the refi-(kncc of the cmbalTy, and the whole Giite, of every dc-fcription, rcccivcd an invitation from tiic grand manda-riji to partake of a public breakfall, which was to be provided here on the next morning, and during the ftay of the embalTy at this placc ; notice was therefore given to each jimk, and orders iHucd for difembarking. Accordingly, Lord Macartney and Sir George Staiinton fet out in two palankins, which had been fent for them, and were eicortcd to the temple by a party of Chinefe foldiers. The breakfafl was compofed of various ilews, made tlifhes, meat of all kinds, eggs, tea, wines, fruit, and confeßionary. Every exertion was made to land the baggage, and prcfents, with fpeed and fafety and for this pnrpofe z Dumber of Chinefe porters were ordered to each junk, and fuch emulation was difplaycd in this fervice, that Jnoft of it was fately lodged in the depot before night. Two Chinefü officers infpe£lcd every cafe :uid package at the gate of the inclofiire, of which they appeared to take a Written account, and pafled marks correfpondent with their ininntcs on every fcparate article, for not a (ingic box -^vas fiifFered to pafs, till it had undergone this cc-remniiy. 'I'he temple appropriated for the'refidcncc of the em-balfy, w^aSj in fad, tlic habitation of a timber merchant, and hired by; the Chincfc govornment>for tJnS ptirpofe : it flaiitis about a mile diltaiU from the city i žsaneat, Imv building, of one ftory high, and conftflsof fcvcral courts, which were fcverally occ^ipiej by the fnl-fliers, fcrvants, AmbaiTidor, and fuite. The foltUers court was next the entrance ; beyond this was the fer-vants quarter, iippofite to wiiich is a fqiiarc building of one room, confecratcti to religious woriliip. In tht ftiiddlc of this ftands an altar, fupporting three porcelain iiatitesas large as life ; and on each fide are candlefticks, containing candles, which are lighted regularly whenever any pcrfun is paying his devotion, and regularly at morn and eve. Before the images ftands a pot full of duli, into which a niimber of long matchcs are thrufl, which are likewile lighted during the celebration of wor-fliip. The devotees having finiHicd, the candles and tlie matclics are extingiiiliied, and an attendant on the altar Urikes a bell thrict with a inallct. All perfons prefent tlien kneel before the images, inclining their heads three times, with their liands clafped, whicli they lift over their heads as they rife. Such is the fimple cercmony of the dally worlhip of thd" Chinefe, invariably obferveJ from the hninbleit to the higheft, from the pegfimt to tlie emperor. This vvorfliip obtains tlic appell.itirjn of Cliiii-chin-joni, or the fervice of God. TIic court adjoining this domeiUc chapcl was occupitd by the Chinefe as a kitchen ; from thence there is a cir-culat entrance to that part of the building which was particularly affigaed to the Ambafiltdur and his fuitc. It fiirrounds a fpsciojiis court, which was iifed as a (lining apartment on the occafion ; on one fide there was a platform, raifcd on two Heps, with a beautiful roof, liipportcd by four gilt pillars; and an awning ^vas itretphcd over the whole court to proteö it from liit-' licat cf the fun. Lamps, coufiüing of frames of bux-wood, covered with tranfparent filk and flowered gauze of var irioiis colours, added ptuch to the pleafing effečl of the iSlMmipation. The dinner ferved up for the AmbaiTador and his company, conflited of about one hundred different diflies, dreifed according to the faihion of tlie Gountry : they confined principally of llcws, ftrvcd up in fmall bafons, v'ithoiit either tablc-cloths, or knives ujid forks. During the time of dinner, a great niimber of Chinefe crowded round the table, and not only cxprelfed their farprife by peculiar, actions and gcflnres, but Itemed highly diverted with tlic difpiay of European manne vm- A guard of Britifli foitiiers attended ilie Ainbalfador's apartments i bnt as we were removed from public view, thefe ccntinels were placed at the outer gate, and the entrance of the inner court, that they might attračt the notice of the Chinefc, and give confequeuce to the diplomatic mlflion, in tlie opinion of the people of the conn-try ; a circumftance on which the fiiccefa of the embidly was fnppnfed in a great meafnre to depend, and which fpeaks pretty plainly tlie erroneous fentiments imbibed rcfpe£Ung the pcrfons we had to treat with. In the feveral apartments appropriated to the ufe of thecmbaffy, Chinefe fervants were diilributed, to fuppl) thofe who were difpofed to call for drink, with hot and cold tea, cold and liot water, ice water, kc. The city of Tong-tchew is about fix miles in oir-cnmferencc, almoft fqnare, furrounded by a wail thirty feet high, and fix broad, to which an cxtcnw.! diicli ia added, in the mod acceflible fpots. U has three gates, each well" fortified, and rnay, altogether, be confidered as n Hrong place. Tfie houics are alinoft nniverfally of wood, one ftory hi^h, with exterior decorations in the Chinefe üilc, but moH: of ihem are deftitute of furniture. The fliop is principal room; before this are high pillars, fupport-i'ig an awning covcrcd with painting And gilding, ai^fi f'^co-fstcd with flreamers, which jjidicate the commodities tb be fold; and fometimes a wooden figure Is fiiper-addc'J, to tlii^il i-j the fpot. In the form and fize of the houfcs and fliops there is very little variety ; the fame plan prevails throughout the city in almoft every refpea. The flrcets, indeed, are of dilfL'rent breadths, but all of thcin have a pavement on «ach fide for the accommodation ofthefpot paUcngers. As a fitbiliiutc for glafs, a. thin glazed paper is uTed ; but fome of the palaces of the higher dalles arc furniflied v\ ith filk to admit tlie ligiit. Tong-tchcw fecms to carry on a very extenfive trade ; an i'mmenfe number of junks refortto it, and the population is computed ^ nearly half a million. The rtiortnels of our itay, and our ignorance of the language, rendered it impoinbk to obtain any corredt ideaoftlie nature of the municipal govcrnmcnc. The curioiity of the people was lb very troublefome iluring our excnrlioii round tlie ci(y, that we were frequently obliged to feek an afyliun in the fliops till the gazing inilhitude had difperfcd. The fecond day after our arrival, the ordnance and (tores were exartiined, and ä trial made of the guns in the prcfence of tbe Ambaflador, which were found to infwer perfeftly well; after which his Excellency and the reft of the fuite dined as on the preceding day. In the evening his Excellency was vilited by the chicf' mandarin, accompanied by Van-Tadge-In. A band gf mufic performed during his (lay, with which the viliiors leemed vaftly pleafed. We had liithcrto efcaped without a death, or acy feri-ous illnefä in the cmbafTy, fince we entered China ; but this evening we loft Mr. Eades, one of the mechanics, by a violent flux, with which he had been fome time af-fličled. Toimprcfs the natives with a favourable idea of the folemnity of our funerals, Lord Macartney dire£l:ed that tl;e dcc'-ifccl fiioüU be iatgxfcd with military ho- nüui'ij. CcjIohlI Ijt-iifon therefore gave ordci'j ftir tlie ti'üdjjü if» appear Willi iTitTr fictc Ttrmt, tiL-.cpt lligfe vvlio' were appointed to fire o\er tiie gravg, In China, eot-fins are kept Tcady inailc ; Mr. Pliiirib was therefore re-qiicJbd to order one ; tliey arc chiefly of the fame ü'^e for all grown pcrfoiis, arc ftrmig and very heavy; lit (hspe fomewhat tike a tiat-botlometl boaf, and the lid fcetired with a cord iiiltead of nails» Having procured one of thele receptacles of mortality^ wc placed the corpfc in it with all poflihle decency j ai)d as, by foinc dränge accident, there ivas no clergyman attached to t lie eimbairy, Mr. Atiderfon, an attendant'on his Lordihip, was called on to officiate on this monriifu! occafion. At nine o'clock the order of the proccHion was formed as follows: A detKhincnt of the royal artillery, with artljs I'lr-verfed. . ^ The coffin carried on men's Ihonldcrs. Two fifesi piaying a funeral dirge. The perfons appointed to ofKciatc at the grave.; The fervants, mechanics, two and two. The troops, which clofed, the whole, excepting fcvcral of the gentlemen belonging to the cmbalFy, vvlio accompanied it. The procefTion being thus prcviotidy marfliallcd, proceeded (lowly to the burying-gronnd, at about a (piarter of a mile's diflancc from the Ambaffador's relidciicc, 1^■herc permiflion for interment liad been granted, with ü liberality far fiiperior to what would be experienced in Great Britain by a follower of Confucius or Fo. An iiiimenfe concoiirfo of fpeflators were allured by tlie novelty of the fcene to accompany us. Perhaps tlic moll fplcndid exhibition in any European city would not tave procured a larger alfcmbly. The body was com-■'miited to the ground with dtic foletr.nity, and ihc procti-Ipii returned iu the order ss i.t v/«iit. . We obferved that the graves were very fliallo\T, having no greater depth than what is juft iicccflary to cover the coffin ; and that the Chinefe have memorials of marble and ftone as with us, charged with infcriptions, and fome of the monuments here exhibited traces of no ordinary fculpturc- This receptacle of dufl was of very con-fiderable extent, but without walls. Except in the vicinity of large towns, there are no public burial grounds: in the country, the tieceafed repofe in the premifcis wheic ihey lived. Several mandarins this day paid a vifit to the Ambaf-fador, and notified tliat the day following was appointed for the embaffy's departure to Pe-kin. Thefe vilits we confidered as a favourable omen of our ultimate fuc-cefs. At a very early Jiour, on the morning of the aifl: of Aiiguft, the fignal was given by beat of drum, to prepare for our departure. The foldiers were firfl marched off, and then the fervants; for botli of whom covered waggons had been provided. The gentlemen of the fiiitc followed in light carts, but the AmbalTador, Sir George Staunton, and the interpreter, had each a palan-kin carried by four men. In point of equipage and appearance, this procellion was mean, indeed ; it funk the diplomatic dignity of the nation, and mortified thofe who coitipofed the embally, for the carts which carried the füldicrs and fervants, were wretched paft defcrip-tion. After leaving Tong-tchew, we entered a fine champaign country, through which we tiavellcd on a road of uncommon breadth and beauty. A foot pavement, about fix yards wide, occupied tlte centre, and ou each fide feveral carriages had room to run a-breaft. Roads of a fimilar defcription conduft to the capital from the principal towns vf the empire; and thtfe are Itept im F perfect repair by labourers regularly difpofecl, and con- ftanily employed. We reached the town of Kiang-Fou by fcven in the morning, and as it was, probably, a matter of general notoriety, when we were to enter Pe-kin, the con-courfe of people who filled every accelTible fpot of view, and even crowded on ns, exceeded what we had hitherto fecn of Chincfe population. To our mortification we here obfervcd, tliat our appearancc cxLited rather more ridicule tlian refpeiSl ; and burils of laughter accompanied every tranfient fight of us from our contcn-ptibic vehicle. Such was the appearance of an cmbaiTy which quitted England with tlic view of prepoHeillng the Cbinefe with exalted fentiments of the grandeur and opiilence of the Britiflu nation, and for tiie piirpnfe of obtaining »höre political diftinöions and commercial privileges which no ■other European nation could bnaft. We flopped nearly an hour at Kiang-Fon, and received fome refreihments of meats, tea, and fruits, of which thofe in the inferior department partook in the open yard, and thofc of the upper in mifcrable rooms adjoining. Van-Tadge-In likewifc ordered fome joau, an im-pleafant Chinefe wine, to bo diflributcd to the attendants of the embaffy. This he did from the benevolent motive of enabling them to refiO- ihe calls of appetite, till another opportunity offered of gratifying them, which at prefent could not be afcevtained. When fnni-nioned to prepare for our departure, a fcene of confufion cnfucd, not calculated to imprefsthe numerous beholders with a very favourable opinion of EngliGi manners, nor to wipe off the unfavourable impreffion already made; indeed, it was with difficulty that the mandarins coiiM aftign the whole to their rcfpeftivc vehicks. Of the face of the country between this town and Pe-tin, it is • impollible to fpeak. Myriads of people intercepted otjr view, We pafild beneath fcveral beautiful truimphal archeS on entering the fuburbs of the metropolis ; where the magnificence difphiycd, fcrvcd only for a contraft to the mean-iicfs of cur appearance, and of courfe added to our mortification and regret. At two in the afternoon we reached tlic gates of the imperial city of Pe-kin. Ordnancc and troops arc fta-tioncd at every gate ; and though the olive branch of peace bielfes Te-kiii with almoll a perpetual fliadc, the arts ot defence and of prudent caiition are neither neg-leiSed nor unknown. As we have before defcribed this city, we lhall here only make fuch cbfervations as have not before occurred. On the moft moderate comptUation, from the fouth gate to the eaft gate is a fpace of ten miles. This was our route through Pe-kiii ; and every (tcp prefcnted fome new objeill to arreft our attention. The ftreets arc fpa-cious, clean, and comtnodious, well paved, and well regulated. An exadl police is kept up ; and as every pub-lie funiLlionary, from the iiighell to the lowcft, is attentive to the difcharge of his duty, order, neatnefs, and activity, arc every where perceptible. Large bodies of fcavengers arc employed in fcparate diftriäs in removing every fpecies of filth ; and another clafs of men fprinkle tlie Ih-eels, to prevent the diift from incommoding palTen-gcrs, or injuruig the gaudy wares and elegant manufactures whicli every (liop prefents for fale. ill the capital, as indeed in aim oil every town in China, the pride of architeflural elegance and embelUihment feeiiis (0 be cliiefly difplayed in the fliops. The tradef-men wifely lay out the greateft expenfe in that apartment which brings them in the moft profit; hence the fliops in general are magnificent, while their domcflitt ^commodaiions are neither numerous nor great, F 2 In Pe-kin, many tlioufands derive their livelihood from the exercife of their hufinefs in the ftrccts. Thefc itinerant traclefmen, according to the nature of their bu-fincfs, cither carry baflccts ovlt their fhoulders, or a kind of pack. Street barbers are very numerous ; they carry with tliem the implements of tlieir trade, being a chair, a fmall ftove, and a water bafon. Their cuftomers fit down in the ftreet, where the operation is performed. A pair of large fteel tweezers, fnapped with force, gives the fignal that the barber is at hand ; and in a country ■where it is impoflible that any perfon can entirely /have himfelf, if he complies with the cftabtiflied mode, this mufl be a lucrative trade. Street auftioneers, apparently pofTeffcd of all the low eloquence and the vociferous exertions of that craft, pre-fent themTelves frequently on a kind of platform. The principal ftreets being of enormous length, arc fubdivided by arched gatev^ays, under each of which thf name of the partial flrecf is written in gilt chara£lers. Thefc arches continually appearing, forve as central ob-ječls for the eye to repofe on. The women here frequently prefent themfelves from the galleries in front of their houfes ; and amid the im-mcnfe concourfe that were aficmbjcd to view our procef-fion, perhaps there were more women in proportion than we Ihould have feen in any principal town of Europe. They poffefs dclicatc features, the effects of which they heighten by cofmetics. They alfo apply vermilion to Ihc middle of their lips, marking along the middle a firips of the decpell die. Their eyes are fmall, but very ex-preflive ; and their brilliance is contrafted by a peak of black velvet or fillc, fet with Hones, which depends from the forehead to the infertion of the nofc. Their feet appear to be of the natural fize, and are free from thofe bandages we have before mentioned. In fad, the vra- men fcem to enjoy as much liberty in this place as is confiftent with the dcUcacy «f the fex ; nor is jealoufy, as far as we could jutlge, a predominant pafTion among ihe men ; at leaft in this part of the empire. In our way through the city, we met a funeral pro-ceffion. The coffin was covered by a rich canopy, with filk curtains, highly ornamented, and hung with efcut-cheons. It was placed on a large bier, and had a great nuinber of men to fupport it, who advanced with a How and folemn Hep. A band of miific followed, playing a kind of dirge ; and after them came the friends and relations of the deceafed, in drcifes of black and white. Pafling the eaftern fuburbs, we again cnt;.'i-cd a rich and beautiful country, and Toon arrived at Yeumen-man-ycimncn, one of the Emperor's palaces, dilant about five miles from the city. Here we found rather a fcanty ami indifferent refrefhment, but being much fatigued witli the extreme heat, and the various impedijiients we had met with from tiie concourfe of people in our way, the idea of reft M'Ss our moil acceptable gratiiication. This palace is low, both in fituation and building. We entered it by a common Hone gateway, guarded by foldiers ; beyond this is a kind of parade, in the centre of which is a Imall lodge foi the accommodation of the mandarins in waiting. The botly of tlie palace is divided into two fquare courts, equally deftltute of elegance and convenience ; the windows of the apartments are formed of lattice, covered with glazed and painted paper; and throughout ihe whole range there ivas no other furniture than a few ordinary tables and chairs. Not a bed or bcdftead was any where to be feen; the Chincfe having nothing of this kind, inftead of bedfteads they ufe a large wooden bcnch, raifcd about two feet ^rom the ground, and bottomed with bamboos or wicker work. On one of thefe feveral perfons may fpread their mattrclles, it xvas therefore fortunate for us that we had brought our hammocks and cots with us. Every thing about this refidencc evinced that it had been long deferted or negleiled; and, indeed, a more unpromiling fituation for a royaj rcfidence could no where be found. The Gtuation is naturally fwatnpy ; it is fur-ronndcd by an high wall, and two ponds of [tagnant water commanieated their mephi'ic odours to every apartment, bomt; fmali grafs fields, indeed, belong to the pa-licc ; but tlicfe too were an exception tn the general cultivated appcarance of the country. In Ihort, centipedes, fcorpions, and mufquetos, infefttd every part of this palace; and ior fuch inhabitants it was folely adapted. Yet, difagreeable as the iniernal Hate of our rcfidcncc •was, we were cut oft" from all external communicütion. Soldiers and mandarins guarded every avenue ; and the embafTy could be conlidered in no other light than as pri-foners of ftate ; receiving, like them, a daily allowance from the government wliich opprelfes them. The Amballador's apartments were guarded night and day by Britifli centinels ■ and to keep up fonie appearance of dignity, of which, indeed, we appeared to have but little, Lord Macartney required that a table Ihoidd be, ill future, furnillied for himfelf, Sir George, and Mr. Staunton, dillind from the other gentlemen ot Iiis fuite. This requidtion was readily complied with; from this time therefore he dined in bis own apartment, ■while the upper ranks of thofe who attended on the cm-baity, had a table prepared for them in one of the courts, iind beneath the ihade of a tree, which feemed to participate in the general wretchednefs of the place. Even the prefents were fo carelefsly depofited, and fo much ex-pofed to the fun, that there was reafon for apprehending that fome of them would receive confiderable injury from their unfavourable Qtiiation; a temporary flied was 4 therefore immediately erciied, to which they were fpee-^ily removed. T'iie Ambairador being very much dilTatisficd, and having juftly conceived a difgiift at his treatment and iitiia-tion, made a ferious rcquifttion for a refidcncc more fuited to the chara£ler which he fiiftairied, and better calculated for the convenience and accommodation of the embairy. To obtain tliis objcci:, Mr. Phimb, the interpreter, made feveral vifits to Pe-kin, and at laft fiic-cccdcd in his application : little occurred worthy of recital during tlie remainder of our flay in this uncomfortable and vfretched abode, in which we continued till the twcnty-fixth day of tliis months which was appoiiUed for the AmbalFador's departure for Pe-kin. During this interval feveral impleaiant altercations took place between tlie members of the embaify and the fol-diers on guard : the former could ill brook thedifgracefiil rellraints laid on them by confinement within tlic walls of their prifon ; and tlie latter pcrtinacioufly ojjpofcd every attempt at greater liberty. Col. Benfon in particular was fo mortified at being denied the liberty of palFuig the walls of the paiace, that he made a refolute attempt to gratify his inclinations, which produced a very uiiplea-fant affray. The Colonel, however, was not only forccd to abandon his dcfign, but was alfo threatened with very fevere and illiberal treatment from th; Chinefe who were «n duty at the gates. Tlicfe fracas were not unfrequcnt, and perhaps were produftivc of future ill confequcnces to the interefts of the million. Conciliatory meafiircs by means of negotiaiion would certainly have been preferable and far more prudent than menaces, which could not be carried into elfeß, and altercalioiis with thofe, who in the pun£lnal difcharge of the duty itnpofed oij tlicm, \\ cre r.ither obječls of refpeS than of enmity and t'ppoliiioh. It mull, hov/cver, be acknowledged that it was a very humiliating circumftance to be made prifontr» when upon a iniflion, that by the law^a of European nations poflefVcs alnnoft univcifal privileges. So much plcafure did every pcrfon attached to the etn-bafTy feel, at the profpeit of leaving tlu.s wretched place, that every necefTnry preparation w^as made for the pur-pofe ill the fhortetl poOible fpace of iltiie. Some of the prefsnts and tlie more delicate articles of art or manufac-tm-c, as chandeliers, mathematical apparatus, clocks, time pieces, were left here, lelt they (hould be injured by freqiient removal. The bufinefs of our fctting off was as iifual a fcene of confulion, but by eleven o'clock, to our great farisfadion, the procclfion fet out on its return to Pc-kin, but with the fame wretched, beggarly accommodatiotis as it came ; we arrived however, without any accidcnt, at the north-gate of Pe-kii) about one in the afternoon. This was the counter-gate to what we had entered in our former pro-cclfion through Pc-kin, and prefented new views of flreets and buildings. A pagoda atlra£led our notice in our progrefs, being the firll we had fovuid an opport\inity of obi'erving. It fbnds in the centre of a beautiful garden, adjoining to a mandarin's palace ; is fquare, built of ftone, and gradually diminithes from the bottom till it-terminates in a fpire. It rifes to the height of feven ftories, and has a gallery near the top, encompalled by a rail with a projefliiig canopy, from which hung a curtain of red filk. As It is probable our return wasunexpcfted, we palTc.! with facility through the ftrcets, and foon arrived at a. princely palace belonging to the Viceroy of Canton, who, it feems, was a ftate prifoner here for fome mifcon-dudl in office. This palace condfts of twelve large and fix finallcr courts ; it is built of a grey-coloured brick, o' mofl excellent workmaniliip, but, except two detachwJ idiiices, which were occupied by Lord Macartney and the fecretary to the embaffy, the palace was only one ftory highj though this was of imufual elevation. Every thing without and within convinced us we now lodged in a palace; the embellirhmcnts were in the firft ftyle of Chlnefe tafte ; and in regard to the beauty of colours and tjie brilliant cfteiH; of honfe painting, no nation cart enter into competition with this. The glofly efFedt of japan is every where perceptible, without the intervention of varnifli; for we were convinced, that the beauty produced arofe from forae -ingredients in the original compofition. The apartments were very fpacious, and hung with the moft elegant paper, enriched with gilding. I>ovd Macartney's refidcnce was fingularly fuperb, and moreover had an elegant private theatre belonging to it; and, in a word, all ranks and defcriptions were accommodated in a ftile that gave fatisfadlion, and dcfervcd acknowledgment, Here, however, the furniture was neither valuable tior in any quantity. Chairs and tables, ä few platforms, covered with bamboo matting and carpets, were the only moveables in a palace whofc decorations, both external and internal, would not have dif-graced the refidence of the Emperor himfelf. In feveral of the courts there are artificial rocks and ruins, which, though not very congenial to their fitua-'ion, are formed with confiderable ßciU, and are in them-felves very happy imitations of thofc objefts they were defigned to reprefent. To thefe may be added the triumphal arches, which arife, with all their fanciful devices, In various parts of the building, giving it a novel but plealing appearance. Under the floor, in each of the principal aj^rmeits, is a ftove, with a circular tube, which conveys warm air to every part of the room above. We faw no chimnies G in this country, and underftood that ftoves fupplkd with charcoal were the univerfal cuftom. The fupplies for the table were in the beft ftlle of Chmefc living, but confifting more of ftews and halbes than folid joints. In this refpečl, however, wc had nn reafon to .complain ; but the fame fufpicious vigilance Was employed to keep us within the Innits of our refi^ dcnce as ever; and on no pretcncc could we pafs thn gatesj or even fcale the -walls, every accefliblc part being conftantly guarded by an adtive military force. Wc were totd, that the palace in which we were confined *vas tuilt by the Viceroy of Canton, at the expenfe of one hundred thoufund pounds, the fruits of his exa£lions ■while in tliat ofRce ; and that tliafe exactions wore chicfly made on the Englifli. Though we wifhed that our continuance in this place might be of no long duration, as it was impoffible to make any progrefs in the grand objc£l of our miflion till wc had au interview with the Emperor, yet every arrangement was made to add-to the dignity of the em-bafTyj or proinote its convenience. Having fettled this faiifinefs, we waited with anxious expeftation the return of a mandarin, who had been difpatched to learn his Imperial Majcfty's pleafme, whether we fliould proceed to Tartary, where he was then refident, or wait till the period of his ufual return to Pe-kin. Among the mandarins who paid their refpcfls to the AmbtjTador, on his taking up his relidence here, thert "«^ere feveral natives of France, formerly of the order of Jefuits, who being prohibited from the promulgation of their religious tenets, had afliuned the drefs and manners of the Chinefe; and who had, on account of 'heir learning, been promoted to civil rank among them. Thefe, who were well acquainted with the interefts of the country, ix; which they were now naturaiifed. gave Lord Macartney hopes of a favourable ifTuc to the important cmbafly he conduced. On the morning of the 28th of Auguft, the condiiÖing mandarin acquainted the Ambaffador, that it was his Imperial Majcfty's pleafure to receive him inTarfary. A new arrangement immediately took place, and the following gentlemen belonging to the embalTy were felefled to accompany his Excellency intoTartary: Sir George Staunton, Mr- Winder, Mr. Staunton, Dr. Gillan, Lieut. Col. Benfon, Mr. Plumb, Capt. Macliintofli, Mr. Baring, and Lieut, Parifh, Mr. Huttner. Lieut. Crewe, Mr. MaxwcU was left at Pekin, with three fcrvants, to fettle the houfehold of the Ambaflador, as, whatever had yet been the cafe, it was now determined, that 00 his return from Tartary his eftablifhment and appcarance ihould be, as far as poffible, fuited to the dignity of the charaderhe fuftained. Dr. Scott was alfo left, to take care of the fick, for feveral of the foldiers and fcrvants were, at this time, afflidled with the bloody flux. Mr. Hickey and Mr. Alexander were to prepare the portraits of the King and Queen of Great Britain, which, with the fiate canopy, were tq ornameut the prcfence chambej- of the AmbafTador. Dr. Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow were left to re^ gulate and arrange the prcfents which had liithcrto remained at the palace of Yeumen-manyeunicn, and tp prepare them for prefentation to the Emperor on the Ambaflador's return. The guards, mnficians, and fervants, received orders to hold thcmfelves in readincfs, with only indifpenfable necetTaries; snd even the gentlemen of the fuite wpie ta G 2 NARRATIVE OF THE be as little incumbered as pofllble. They were to carry with them only the uniform of the embafly and a common fuit of deaths: themuficians and fervantswcre to bedrelTed out in a fuit of ftate Jiverics, which, on being unpacked, furniflied evident proof, that this was not their •firft appearance in public ; from fevcral of their dreifes bearing the names of their former wearers, and from fome circumftances we difcovered tliat they had been pade up for the fervants of M. de la Luzerne, late French ambaflador at London. But whether they were of diplomatic origin, or derived their exillence from the theatre or Monmouth-ftreet, is of little itr.portance to the reader. With thefe habiliments, fuch as they ■were, every man fitted himfelf out in the beft manner he could, at leaft with coats and waiflcoats, for wiih re-fpe£t to breeches, there were only fix pairi iii the package, atid not a fmgle hat accompanied them. Such, indeed, was the grotefque figure they made, when thus drelTed -out, that had the party appeared as ridiculous tp the Chinefe as they did to each other, they might rea-fonably have fuppofed, that we rather wifted to acquirc mofiey by the exhibition, than to add dignity to an em-balFy of the nature of that in wiiifch we were engaged. The AmbalTador and Sir George Staunton agreed to travel in an old chaife belonging to the latter, which, pn being unpacked, certainly had none of that gaudy appearance which diftingiiiihes the works of art in China; and fome of the Chinefe did not hefitate to exprefs their difapprobation of its external appearance, which was, indeed, contemptible. When the chaife was put in orderfor the journey, a difficulty aiofe, for which, as it had not been forefcen, no provifion was made ; this was to get a couple of poflil-lions: at length, however, a corporal of infantry, who had once been in this fituation, offered his fcrvic^ andj a light-horfeman was ordered to aflill him in conducing (he carriage, A man vvlio has learned two trades is frequently ufe-ful to himfelt' and to others : this humble corporal was the only man who could have headed the Ambaffador, and condudled him on his way. He and his affiftant were permitted to exerciic the horfes in the chaife for a ihort time through the ftreet$ of Pe-kin, under a guard of mandarins and foldiers, and fuch crowds affembled to lee this extraordinary fpeflaclc, that authority was ab-fokueiy neceiFary to reftrain the impertinent trefpaJTes of curiofity. Such of the fuite as preferred riding on horfeback were to be accommodated on giving in their names, and carts were to be provided for thofe who preferred thofc kind of vehicles to the faddle. On the morning of the 3iil: of Aiiguft, fuch of the prefents and baggage as v/ere intended to be forvvauled to Tartary, being fent ofF^ fomc on mules, others in carts, and fome borne by men. A number of horfes were brought, from which the riders having made a feleftion, very early on the morning of September the fecond wc began our inarch, but meeting with frequent interruption, it was fome time before we could pafs the city gate, This, however, being cfFečted, wc foon drove through the fuburbs, and entered a rich and beautiful country by a road of great width, but without any central pavement. After travelling about fix miles, we reached the village of Cbin-giho, where we were allowed our morning refrefhments. In our route we paffed a great number of populoits viilages, and took up our firft night's lodging at one pf the Emperor's palaces, named Nan-/liighee. Our benevolent condu£lor, Van-Tadge-In, feenied to redouble his aftivity as wc approached the impeiiut prefence. Wc were now furniflicd every day with tl'tt beit accommodations, and received an allowance of famt-ciioo, and a kind of wine, which the Chinefe call jooaw; the former is a fpirit diftilled from rice and millet, and may deferve the appellation of Chinefe gin. From Fü-kin to Jehol, the Emperor's Tartar reft-dence, the dlftance is one hnndred and fixty miles, which was divided into fcven days joiirnies, that we might have the advantage of llccping in an imperial rcfidencc every right. This flattering mark of diltinaion is the highefl:, it feems, that can be paid, and is never conferred even on the firft mandarins. The palacc where wc pafTed thfi fifft night had but little to demand attention, either in its external appearance or its internal decorations ; it was environed by a fpacians garden, but to this we were denied accefs. The journey of this day wc computed at above twenty-five miles, which may he confidered as a tolo-rable progrefs, when it Is known that the fame horfes were to take us the whole journey, and the fame men were to carry the baggage all the way ^ and what delayed us ftill more, the whole of our provifions were ordered and drelTed at the feveral places through which we pafTod OH the road, and conveyed in covered trays, on men's Ihoulders, to every üage of our journey, for our rc-frefhment there. We refumed our journey at four next morning, and having palTed a populous village callefJ Can-tim, took our refrefhment at the town of Wheazou, a place of fome confequence. From thence we proceeded through dufty roads, beneath a burning fun, till wc reachcd the palace of Chan-chin, where wc halted for the night. Thi^ is a fpacious ftrudiirc, covering a great extent of ground, containing ten or twelve courts, and adorned witji gaj-denj and plantations, Tliq furrovindijtgCQuntjy h indored, and m point of fertility equalled any we had fc-cR. It fed immenfe herds of cattk, -which are fmall, but very fjt. As we proceeded on our journey the next mornings the diftaiit country affumed a mountainous afpeft ■ fertility fenfibly diminiflied, and the villages bccanne more thin; at one of thcie, callcd Cua-bu-cow, we break-faftcd in a farm yard. About noon we faw the city of Canng chuin-fou. We met nothing worth remark in this day's march, fxccjjt about two lumdred camels and dromedaries, carrying wood and charcoal, entirely under the direftion of one man. The palace of Caung-chiun-fou received us at an lumv in the afternoon, ahcr a iTioft faüguing and t/jTagreeable journey. Tliis palace ;ippeared to be lUtle different from tliofe we Jiad before occtipicdj and tiie treatment which the Ambaffador and his attendants received, correfponded in every refpečl: with what they had undergone before, in their journey to and from Pc-Jciu. It is almoft unnecelfary to fay, that however unfavourable appearances might be, moft of us gJadiy accepted of whatever was prepared for our refrcfl)ment; and it will be doubted by none, that we received with great fatisfailion the meiVage of our condiidfor, that informed us we might retire to the difi'ercnt apartments allotted for ovn- repofe. Early the next morning we were fummoned together^ and foon after departed. Th6 roads were now become very indifferent, and the country difplayed a mountainous appearance. At a fmall diihnce from Waung-chau-yeng, where we had arrived at about [line o'clock, wc pafled a prodigious arch, whicli ftretches acrofs a valley, uniting two hills, the farther of which is i^-owned with a fort, whofe ramparts extend toa very cnnfiderable diftance. Beneath this fort is a ftnnc archway tondiifling down tlic hill, fo flepp as to render travelling dangerous. In a romantic valley, at the büttomj appears the town of Waung-chait-yeng ; it is irregularly built, about a mile in length, and difplays a confiderable fliare of commerce and opulence. At the extremity of this town, a temporary triumphal archj ornamented -with iilken fircamcrs, was ereded in honour of the em-baffy, and the Ambiiflador was complimented with a band of muüc, and received a falute from fome giuis ■while he palled between a double line of foldiers, extending from the arch to tiie great wall, who difplayed a martial appearance and military parade beyond what we had hitherto witncÜed in China, They were regularly drawn up In companies, and each regiment was didin-gniOjed by a different drefs ; tSiey all wore a kind of Coat of mail, and had their head and ihoulders covered rvith fteel helmets; their arms were matchlocks, fabres, fpears, lances, and bows aJid arrows, together with fome weapons of whicli we knew not the appropriate name. Almoft every divifion varied in its arms as well aS Its drefs. The mimher of diviüons on each fide of theroadi "vverc fcventecn, confjftiitg Of about eiglity men each. We now approached one of the wotiders of tlie world, the wail that feparates China Irom Taitary, uie moft ftupendous work ever produced by man. In the vicinity are cantonments for an army of confidercble magnitude; at the extremity of which is a niad'y gateway of ftone, defended by three iron doors, which guard the pafs between countries formerly diftinÖ. 'I his wall we have already defcribed, when fpealdng of the forts and placcs of defence in the Chincfe empire, and to tliat defcription we refer the reader. Man, and all his works are doomed to decay. Time has already clifcovered its ijiduence on this cclcbratetJ 1 tmonumcnt of labour ; and as it is now no longer necef-fary for fccurity or defence, fmce the nations on both Ildes acknowledge one fovercign, no attention is paid to its prefervatiorij and it is inofe thati than probable, that future travellers in fome remote age, for it will txift for ages ftill, may defcribe its ruins, and paufe while they contemplate the inftability of fublunary grandeur. In fome places fragments have already tumbled doWn, and in others menace to incumber the plains they once defended. Having now palled the wall, the country affumed a new afpečl; even the climate appeared to be changed. Jndead af high cultivation, the abodes of wealth, and the buftle of commerce, nothing prefented itfclf but barren wuftc, where art has not yet difplayed her magic powers. The traveller, however^ is amply compenfated by the variety of natural objecls which prefent themfelves to his view; and the lover of piclurefque beauty finds, amldH all the incrcaiing inconveniencies of his journey, a fource of entertainment xvhich makes him forget all the difficulties he from time to time encounters. About feven miles from the great wall, we arrived at the foot of a very high mountain, which the carts could not afcend without an additional number of horfes. The palFage through this mountain is an additional proof, if fuch be wanting, of the genius and indefatigable fpirlt of the Chincfe people, in works that relate to public utility. This road, thirty feet in breadth, is cut through a folid rock ; and what appeared to us more extraordinary, to felFcn its declivity, it is funk fo much, that it is not lefs than one lumdred feet from the top of the mountain to the furface of the road ; yet ftill the afccnt is tremendous, and at the beginning has a Very fearful appearance, while on the other fide the way- flopcs down 'with a gentle H declivity between two largS mountains tOTvards a beautl-fiil valley. After pafllng this mountain, at about a mile and a half diftance, wc arrived at the palace of Chaung^Oianuvc, fitiiatecl on a finali elevation ; it is of large dimenfions, and fnrroundcci by an high wall, being the refidcnce of a cosifiderable number of the Emperor's women ; many of whom we difcovered peeping over the partition which feparatied'their apartments from the part of the palace af-figiied to tiie accommodation of the cmbalTy, Thoiigli we were not permitted, as may well be ftippoft;d, to vifit thefe iadles, the eunuchs who were their guardians came to viiit us. There were feveral mandarins among them, to whom was configned the care and conduct af this female community. This palace is ftirrounded wiili very extenfive gardens and pleafure grounds, but from the particular fervice to which they arc applied, it would' Jiave been an idle rilk of danger, to have made any attempt to fee them. We left Chaung-(haiuive at fix o'clock next morning ; tbe road takes the charadcr of the coiintry, which was every where broken and mountainous : yet {lerile as it now appeared, this evidently did not proceed from any want of aÖivity in the natives. Every fpot capable- of cultivation was covered with corn ; and In one place we faw feveral patches of tillage where the declivity feemed to be wholly inaccedible. This excited onr admiration, but judge our furprize when we obfcrved a peafant labouring on one of them, where we at firft could npt conceive how he was capable of Handing. A more minute examinaticn informed us, that this peafiint had a rope fafteued round his middle, which was fecured at the top of ilm mountaiii, and by which this hardy cultivator lets himfelf down to any part of the precipice wlierc a few yards of ground give him cncos*-1 EMBASSY TO CHINA. 51 j-ajemciu to pkmt his vegetables or fow his corn : and in this manner he had de-oratcd the moumain with thüfe little cultivated fpols that hung about It. Near tlie bot-loin, on an hillock, he had ercfted a wooden hitt, fur-roiiiKled with a final 1 piece of ground, planted -witli a few jiecclTary vegetables, where he fiipported, by his liazardous indLi(i:ry, a wife and family. The whole of thefc cultivated fpots, which did tiut appear to amount ttf more than half an acrc, offered from iheir fitiiation, at-fuch hazaidous dillanccs from cach other, a very curious example of the iiatnral iiidiillry of the people. We have before noticcd, and we again repeat, that tlie wife policy of the Chinefe govcrnmciit is in nothing more perceptible than in its receiving the grcateil part of the tax;es iinpofed, in the produce of the country. This ferves as a fpur to tiie exertions of both body and mind. The landlord alfo is paid his rent in the produce of his tarms ; and the farmer again pays his ialfoiirers by an ailot]T!ent of fntaU portions of land, from whence in-diiftry, with a little occahonal encouragement, may derive a comfortable ftibiUtcnce, Tiie only real wealth of nations is agriculture, which is here perfcdly under-flood. A regular chain is eftabliihed between all ranks for Its encouragement; and the artificiiil and unnatural mediitni of money, the iburce of wretchednefs and of crimes, is only employed as the cement, not as the materials of tile building. Before noon we arrived at tlie palace of Calla-chottiieng, where we fpciit the rtniaiiider of the day. This palace Hands between two lofty liills ; it appears of more modern ereSion, but is built in llile and lorm, re-fcmbling thofe we had already palled ; the apartments arc, however, better fitted up. At this place the Ambalfador gave orders to praclife the proceflion and ceremonies v\'ith which we were to 11% appear bcfc>re the imperial court. Mis Excellency was plcafet! to approve of the rchearfal, which was under the diredion of Colonel Benfon, and during which, the band played the favourite march, known by the appellation of the Duke of York's. On the next morning, being the 7th of September, ive continued our route over a hilly country, where the air was piercingly cold. We pafTed feveral well-peopled villngcs, but neither the cultivation of the country, nor its population, will bear any comparifon with thai on the other fide of the Chinefe wall. Early in the afternoon wc reached the palace of Calla-chotrefhangfu, much fatigued by the badnefs of the Toads-; this palace, in extent and form, is equal to any we had lately feen, but we found it tenanted only by fquirrels, which boiuidcd round the courts and haunted the apartments. At fix o'clock next morning we continued our route, and arrived at one of the Emperor's pagodas in about two hours, here wc found an abundant fupply of provifions, but wc made only a ftay^fufficient to enable us to arrange our drefs and equipage. After travelling for about an hour, wc came to the village of Qiioangcho, within a mile of Jehol, the imperial rcfidence. Here wc were marfhalled, and proceeded amid an immenfe concourfe of fpeftators, with all the parade that circiimftances would allow. The foldicrs of the royal artillery led the way, commanded by Lieutenant Parilli; ihc light horfe and infantry fiic-cetded, commanded by Lieutenant Crewe ; then followed the AmbaHador's fervants, two and two ; two couriers ; mechanics, two and two ; muficians, two and two ; the gentlemen of the fulte, two and two i Sir George Staunton, in a palaukin ; tlic AmbalTador and Mr. StaiintDn clofcd the cavakaJc in the pofl-chalfe, bebind which Üood a black boy in a turban. The militavy, tor their numbers, made a rcfpeflabie fhew, and the gentlemen of the luite, it may be reafon-ably fuppofcti, were not forgetful of their dignity ; indeed, it is but doing ihem juflicc to fay, they ftrove to fupport it by every c>Ltcrn;i.l difplay in their power, but t'he generality were a motley groiip, without even the advantage OY a tolerable unifornilly in any part of their drcfs or appearance. The whole certainly was not calculated to convey any extraordinary ideas of the fplendor or power of the country from which wc came, but the contrary. The Chinefe might, indeed, pollibly be amufed with the novelty of tiie fcene, but it \\'as utterly im-poflible (hat tl^cy fhotild be impreiled with its grandeur. ProceediiTg with a flow pace, in this fbte we reached Jehol about ten in the morning, and drew «p betöre tha palace provided for the recep'ion of the cmbaify. The Britldi military formed a line for the Ainbairador as he paffed ; but not a mandarin was in waiting to receive him, and we took poffellion of the palace without the welcome of an addrefs. This, indeed, was a mortal blow to all our hopes and expedtations, for it had been given out, that the Grand Choulaa would meet the Ambalfador, and cfcort lum to Jehol ; and after our arrival, we were kept for fome hours in anxious expeflation of receiving this honour, the troops holding themfelves in readinefs tö fall into a line, and the fcrvants and mechanics ranged in order before the Ambaifador's door ; but at laff dinner being fcrved up, put an end to our expedlations of feeing him for the day. The palace we now inhabited is fituatcd on the declivity of a bill. We entered it by a wooden gateway, which condudls ;o a large court; cach fide of this court has a long gallery, fupported by vvootlcn pillars, and roofed witli black glo^y tiles ; that on the left was converted into kitchen, the others fervt-d for the foklicrs to cxcrcife in. At the upper end w^s anat!-,cr gallery of more elegance, from which a door opens into a farihei-court, the principal apartments of which were appro-jiriated for the iife of the AnribalTador and Sir George Staunton, the reft i'or the military gentlemen attached to them ; a third court was occupied by the gentlemen of the fiiitc, tlie niufjcians, fervants, and mechanics. 7"hc whole fabric is furroimdsd by a high wall; but owing to the declivity of the ütuation, th£ view was not wholly confined. Such was our fitiiation at Jchol, we had plenty within our wails, but no one had liberty of fgrcfs. On the day after our arrival, feveral mandarins vinttd the Ambaifador ; nothijig, however, was faid on thr fiibject of the niilfion, but on the fecoml day he received a vifit from a mandarin, with a very nunieious retinue, who remained nearly an hour in conference with his Excellency and Sir George Staunton. During his ftay, his attendants amufed themfelves in examining the lirefs of the Englilh fervants, and on rubbiiig the lace on the'ir cloaths with a Hone, to afcertain its quality, tjiey flmok their heads and fmiled, when they foinid it lefs valuabltj than brilliant. V^'hat pafled at this conference, could not be generally linown, but from fome circiimllances, a ipirit of con-ječlure was conjtired up among the attendants on the embairy, and the prefages they formed were by no means favourable. As foon as the mandarin had left the Ambaifador, one of his Exccilcncy's fecretaries informed the attendants on the embalTy, that If iheir provifions (liould be defeclivc in fjnantity or c[uali(y, they were to intimate the grie- Vance to his Excellency alone, and löave them untoudicci, Tlic üccaüon tor this caution iwne of us could divine, but we foon toiind it was not given in vain, for the dinner this day fcrvediip, was not fulKcient for lialf the number who were to partake of it. An Englifliman cannot ealily be reconciled m confinement, but much lefs to famine ; but, in addition, \vc could perceive a meditated ililrefpeft, antl of courfe fcit fomc alarm for the fate of the erabairy. According to our inftriičlion5, the meat was left un-loiiched, and a complaint preferred as direfted. His Excellency having remonftrated to the mandarin through the medium of his interpreter, in a few minutes afterwards every tabic was ferved with hot difhes, in the ufiia! variety and profnfion. Why this entertainment, which nuift have been nearly ready, was thus withheld, and fo fpeedily produced, ferved as an enigma to exer-cife our ingenuity, but which we could never folve. Indeed, no other ideas could poHibly be entertained of it, than that of an effort of Chinefe ingenuity to try the temper of Engtiflimen, -vv hich, but for the ileps taken by the Ambafl'ador, might have been produäive of much mifchief to the undertaking. Next day the prefents brought from Pe-kjn were tm-packed in the portico facing the Ambaffador's apartments, ihcy coniiiled of Two hundred pieccs of narrow coarfe cloth, chiefly black and blue. Two large teicfcopes. Two air guns. 'I'wo handfomc fowling pieces ; one inlaid with gold, and the other with lilver. Two pair of faddle pillols, enriched and ornamented in the fame manner. Two boxes, cach containing feven pieces of Irifli ta-bincts. Two elegant faddles, and furniture ; the feats cf thefe ■were of doe fltin,- ftiiched witii fine filvcr wire; the flaps were of a brfght yeliow fupetfine cloth, embroidered with nivcrj and enriciied with filver fpangles and taffcls ; the reins and flirnip-ftraps of bright yellow leather, (litched with filver, but the llirrups, buckles, &:c. were only plated. Tvvo large boxes of the fineft carpets of the Britifli inanufafilory. Thcfe were all the prefents which hnd brcn brought from Pe-kin; the reit were cither too' cnmberfome or |oo delicate to be removed without much care, and ■were, therefore, left to be prefcnted to the Emperor, oh his return, for the winter feiifoii, to ihc capital of his empire, Centinels were placed to guard thcfe fpecimCns of Britifli manufačlurc, till the Emperor's pleaiurc relpc£l-iiig them fliould be known, which was afterwards no-' tificd by the attendant mandarin, with as mucii civility as could be cxpeiEled from the fuppofeti greattiefs of his office. A mandarin of the ftril order, on the i 2th of Sep^ tcmber, came to acquaint the Ambalfador, that his Imperial Majerty would give him an audiencc on the 14th. Tliis intelligence diffiifed hope and fpirits through the whol« embaßy, though, it muft be confelfed, wiihout any apparent caufe. Orders were iHiiecl, thit the fulte fnonld be ready at three on the morning of the day appointed, to accompany hJ& Excellency to the imperial palace. The attendants weriJ to appear in ihcir oeft liveries ; and the foldiers and fer-vants, after having efcortcd the Ambalfador, were tö return, without halting, immediately to their quarters i his Excellcncy informing them, that he hoped the re-ftridions impoff:d on tlacm, which were fo irkfome tg all, Would in a few days be removed by his endeavours, and every reafonable indulgence allowed them. His Exccllcncy was fplendidly dreffed, in mulberry velvet, with his diamond ftar and red riband, and over the whole he wore the full habit of the order of the Bath. Sir George Staunton was in a full court drcfs, over which he wore the robe and hood of a dodor of laws, with the academical cap belonging to that degree. From the darknefs of the morning, a conlidcrable confufion arofc in the intended order of the cavalcade; Colonel Benfon, indeed, attempted to form a proceflion, which, however, was but of fhort duration, even fuch as it was, for we were foon thrown into confufion by a number of pigs, aifes, and dogs, who broke in upon our ranks, and from which, in the dark, we found cou-fiderable difficulty to extricate ourfelves ; but as parade Is ufelefs Vvhen no one can fee it, the failure was of little confequence. As eariy as five in the morning, the Ambairador alighted from his palankin at the Emperor's palace, amid an immenfe number of the populace. Sir George and Mr. Staunton fupported his train, followed by tlie gentlemen attached to the cmbaify. Jehol is large and populous, very irregularly built, and lies in a valley between two mountains \ tite houfes are low, and chiefly built of wood j and, except in the quarter contiguous to the imperial palace, none of the Ilreets are paved. The principal fupport of this place feems to be derived from the Emperor's partiality for it. No river connects it with remote fituations: the fplendid expenfe of a court, however, renders it rich, and in fome mes" fure commercial. The furrounding country, though riot comparable to China, is in the beft ftate of cultivation of any we faw in Tartar/I 58 NARRATIVE or THE As bis Excellency's vlfit was a utcre matter of fottn aiiri picrpntatioij, it did not engage him long. He returned from the imperial palace before ncKjn. T)ic Em* pcror, it is faid, received tlie crcdenliais wiUi a moli ceremonious formality, admitting none into his prefencc but his Ex.cellency, the Interprefer, Sir George and Marter Staunton, with the latter of whom lie appeared to be vaftly deliglited, and to whom he prefcnted, with his own iiands, a beauiifiil fan, and foine embroidered pnrfes; and iikewifc ordered the interpreter to iignify iiovv highly he thought of Iiis talents. Soon afier the Ambalfador's relurn, a number of valuable prcfents were received f.om court, confifting of rich fatins, velvets, filks, and purfes, and fomc of the finefl: tea of the country, made up into foliJ cakes by means of baking, of about five pounds each. Exccpt fuch as were addrefTed for their Britannic Majeifies, thefe prcfents were proportionaWy divided among the gentlemen of the fuile. Next morning the AmbafTador, attended only by his fiiite, paid a fecontl vilit to tlie Ejnperor, in order, as we iinderftood, to attempt to open the wi(hed-for negotiation. On this occafion he ilopped fevera! hours. The interpreter gave a very favourable report of the af-peit of the negotiation, as far as it liad advanced; and our liopes.for its juccefs feemed to derive fome cgntinna-ticn from a fecjjnd cargo of prefcnts, confining of velvets, fatins, and filks, as before ; Chiuefe lamps and valu;jl)Jc' porcelain,; and to fhefe were added a nitniber of CalilaulVi boxes of the moA cxqulfitc fabric. A diJlribu-tion was made as before ; and mirth and feftivity, arifing from fangviing hopes of fuccefs, crowned the evening ot the day. Several mandarins vifited the Ambalfador on the l6tii of September, and invited him and the whole embalT/ ta mtcnj the .innivcrfary of the Emperor's birth-day at cotirt, on the morrow. Accordingly his Excellency, with tiic whole of his fiiite, fct out at two o'clock in the morning, and the whole cavalcade reached the imperial palace about four. This palacc ftands on an elevated fituation, and com-inands an exteiifivc view of the country fiirroUnding it: it contains a numerous ran^e of courts furrounded by porticos, none of which, however, appear very magni-iiccnt, though fome of them are highly decorated with painting and gilding. The gardens Tiirround it for fc-vcral miles, and thefe arc bounded by a wall thirty feet high, lu the front of the palace is a fine lawn, in the centre of which is a very pleafant lake. As foon as tlic Emperor approached, the mandarins in waiting proftrated themfelves, or it would have been impodible to have diftinguilhed his palankin from one of their's. No external pomp or badge of dignity, marked his drefs or equipage, except his being carried by twenty mandarins of the firlt order. It is a favourite maxim of tlie Chincfe government to chcck fiiperfluous cxpenfe, and to encourage frugality and indudry in every department. Actuated by the fame wife and patriotic principle, the prefent Emperor has forbid any public joicings on his birth-day, in this lefs flouridiing part of his empire ; but fuch unfeigned homage is paid to Iiis dignified and amiable charafter, that except in his iminediate prefence, and under his pcrfonal view, all ranks and dcfcripitons of men, throughout his ex-tcnfive dominions, give a loofe to joy on tiiis aiifpl-cious day. He had now completed the ciglny-fifth year of his age, and the fifty-feventh of his reign. His countenance was animated, and little cxprefiive of his advanced years ; Iiis eyes were dark .ind piercing ; and his whole air bore the imprellion of the ctmfcious ; 3 dignity of virtue rathrr than that of rank and fiate. —How difFcn-nt the fciifations arifing from the contemplation of this charačlcr are to thofe which arifc from the view of a profligite European prince, we ihall Itave tiie reader to deterjnine : we Ihall only fay, that the Chinefe evidently viewed thiir Emperor as the father, and not as the fcourge of their coiiitlry. Our return was follow i:d by a repetition of the fame Jiliid of prefents as we received before, only varied in pattern and colour. A profufion of fruits, paflry, and coiifcftionary, alfa accompanied thofc exprcflions qf imperial munificence. The next day the AmbafTador went in a more private manner to have an audience of leave, as the Court was foon to return to Pe-kin. At the fame time, he tranf-afted certain ofEcia! biitinefs, the refiilt of which was generally fpoken of among the fiiite in the following term:: That the Emperor declined entering Into any written treaty with Great Britain, or indeed with any nation, aj; being contrary to ancient nfage ; at the fame time he cx-prediid the higliell refpcdl for the Britifli nation anil the King; and was ßrongly (lifpofed to give them a preference in all commerciaJ concerns, and to make any arrangements with rcfpe£t to Brililh Ihlps at Canton for their advantage, whicii would not prove difadvan-tageoijs to his own fidije^ls ; but tliut tic would not fa-Tifice the intcrefb of his own people to any foreign conne£tions, and woiild only cnjuioLie his avowed partiality for the Engliih, while he found it for the advantage of his, own fubjeils. and they condiifled theinfclves jn their commercial intercourfe jn fuch a manner as to deferve i'. To evince Ms high perfonal regard for the King of Great Britain, he delivered to the AmbafVador with his own hand a box of great value, containing the mima-' turCi of all the preceding emperors, wirh a fliort cha-rafler of e^L-h in verftr, written by tliemfelves, accompanied with tlic üibfcquent addrcfs : " Deliver tliis cailcet to the King your marter, with your own hand, and tell him from me, that fmall as the prefcnt inay appear, it is the moft valuable I have t' to bcftow, , is difpenfed with at court, and the drefs left to its twtiiral flow. Wcarc now called upon to notice a degree of defpotic authoiity alTunied by the leader of tlie embaffy, altogether inconfiftent with the ciiaracler and privileges ot Kritiili fubjefts; and as there is reafon to believe, thiit this alfiimpiioii of arbitrary pov.'er conveycd an nnta- votirabk impreHion to the Chinefe of our national clia-rafl-tr, laws, and cultoms, to fet tliis matter in a clear tight, wc iliall previouily ftatc the orders ifl'ued by Lord Macartney, and read to the fliips' companies, and all perCons of every rank attached to the cmbafly, on our ;ippruaching the coaft of China ; orders which feemtd to have been didlated by found policy, and a real regard to the fucccfsful profccution of the grand objedb in view, Or«.DEß.S, Jcakd and ßgncd Macartney. " As the Üiips and brigs attendant on the cmbalfy to " China arc now likely to arrive in port a tew days " hcncc, his Exccllency the Ambafiador thinks it his duty to make the following üljfcrvaLions and arrange" ments : " It is impoihble that the various iinportant objefls " of the cnibady can be obtained, but through the goodwill of the Chincfe : that good-will may much de" pend on the ideas which they lhall be induced to en" tert.iin of the difpohtion and conduft of the Engiilh " nation, and they can judge only from the behaviour " of the majority of thofc who cpine amongft ihcm. " It muft be conrelfed, that the imprcflivons hitherto " made upon their minds, in confcquence of the irre" gularitics committed by Engülhnicr at Canton, arc " unfavourable even to tlie degree of confideriiig tiiem " as the worif among Europeans ; thefe imprellions are " communicated to that tribunal in the capital, which reports to, and advifes the Emperor upon all concerns " with i'orcigii countries. It is therefore eiTcntinl, by " a conduct particularly regular and circumfpefl, to imprcfs them with new, mure jnß, and more favourable " ideas of Englifhmen ; and to ?^ to delay till the arrival of the Emperor in Pe-kin. Gaptain Mackintofh-of ihe Iliiidoftajj iiow-propofcd tqh ■fet oiF on the Monday--to join" his fl-»ip, in ordt^r to proceed to Canton^ .tircn; to take-.ia Iiis cargo for England,-having fcen, us hö conceived,•■■U' fa-vourablc- commence^, nicnt of t)iis embalTy, in whicli bis employers Jjud -fučlt a predominant iiiterell, . On tlie a8th the arrival of thff Emperor at the impe-ria! palace in Pe-kin was announced by a grand dif-. charge of artillery. - ' ■ ■ '' ■ ■ ~ ■ • ■ Tlie occiipatiotts of-tlds day in the'palace of the Am-i tialTatloi- were conhned elitiltly to wririag letters for Eng-(and, of which Captain Mackintofli Was to' take the ciiarge ; it being coniidcred as a fettled arrangement with the court of Pe-tin, thic tlie Engiifli' cmbujry were to remain during the winlerj to carry on the impojranf ne^ gotialions with which it was entnifted; . - The next day his Eitcellency was vifited by feveral mandarins-;, and foine packages of. broad cloths of Bri-lilh manufa£lure were put in a fbte of readinefs for being prefented to the Emperor. Sicknefs at this time prevailed To much among the foldicrs attached to the embalTy, tliat more than half of them were unable, to, do duty ; it was, therefore, found 'cicpedient to eüablilli an hofftital in fome 'of the vacant iniildings within .ihe prečinčls of the palace for their reception, and more fpeedy recovery. On Ihe ift of Oftober, a mandarin requeued, in the namg of the Emperor, that the ordnance prefents might be fent to'the palace of Yeumen-manyeumen, where they were to be proved and examined; which, contrary 10 ovir espeSaiions, was'done by the Chinefe themfelves ift^Jeai^ ufodrown artiUcry men, who had .been taken Z from England for ilic purpofc of tiifplayfng their fiiper»-«rity in the fcicnce of f ngineering to tlie Emperor. The chariots and other prefeiits were alfo removed to the fai-nc place, where tiie carpenters and the other mechanics wcut to hang them 6n thtir fprings ; their fervice, like that of the artillery, was, however, in a great mcafurc difpen-fed with ; tiidy not being permitted to finally adjuft thcin. for rcprefcntasion. The following daj", the Anihafrador received' a formal' invitation to wait on the Emperor on the morrow ; in eomplianrc with this requelt his «xcellcncy went in a private niaiiner, and tranfaÖed bufinefs with the officers of ilate. The conference laüed for two hours; and there were no apparent reafonsfor fiippofing tha* the cb-jeds of the miJlion. weie not ki a progreffivc flute of fiiccefs. The Amteliucicir nt-Av fettied the order and dtfpfifition of the tables for the ditfcrsnt departments of the hoiifhold j and every thing feemed-to indicate » refKlenco of fomc permanensy ast Pekin, v/liich proved' Inghly gratifying to us, who had no otiif.r means of judging of the probable fuccefs of »h*! objcft of our embaHy, than the general anr rangcmentJ made for its domeftic eltablilhment. The cabinets ot Eritiih niiinufaflure were now conveyed to the imperial rofidence by Chinefe porters, and the prcfcnls, confiiting of jewellery, plated goods, hard-ivarc, and cirtlery, were now unpacked ; and the whole «equally divided between the Emperor and the Grand Choulaa, On the 5tti, the Emperor vifited the palace of Yeumcn-^mariyeumen, to ijifpedt tlie pvefents wlitch were lodged there ; on this (Tccafnm he was picafcd to order eight ingots of iiJvcr to be tlHlridintcd to every European perfon attending. 'I'he Kugliih artificers, who were emploxed lu ck'auing and ctinipktingthc.,cafriagcs, -andfitting up * model of an Eriglilli firft-ratc man of warj which had been fent with the prcfcnts, dcftrribed his Maj-efty as being about five tieft ten inches high ; of a {lender form, but well-proportiored ■ and that his countenance pre-fedted a ■regularity of featujes, free from the decrepitude of age. His deportment was attrndively atfublc ; and the dignity of the princc was only difplayed in tho fitpe-rior manner« of the man. He was liabifed in a robe »f yellow iilk, and a cap of black velvet, furraoiintcd with -a red ball, and adorned with a peacock's fcatlior. He wore iilk boots, embroidered with goidj aad a bUic (ilk fafli roimd his wafle. The (fpinion his Majefty formed of die prerunts could only be collečlcd fjom tlieir being gerteraUy received; for •vre could not learn that he had esprelfcd a-ny opit>ion where it could poffibly be conveyed to us. Two camcra obfcuras were, however, returned, ai being fuited only ta tlie amufement of children. A number of bales, containing a variety of broad and narrovp cloths of Engiilh manufailure, witli a quantity of camblets, two barrel organs, and the remainder of fuch prefents as were not damaged, were now remored from the Ambaffador's palace by the Chinef« employed on thefe occafions, and Mr. Plumb l()metimes accompanied the prefents toexplain the nature and application of them, or performed that office t» tlie mandarins, previous to their departure. As it was now confidcred, as a matter of certainty, liiat the embafiy would remain for fome time at ?e-kin, the üiperb and elegant horfe furnilurc which had beta brought over for his ExccUcncy aud Sir George Staunton, were unpacked and got ready for immediiuc ufe. A number of prtfents were tliis day received from tlie Emperor for the nlc of their Britannic Majcllics, tjie Ambafiädor and fuite. L a At iioon on the 6th, the Ambaflador again went tn vifit the Emperor ; hut on his arrival at court he faintcti-away,, and being conveycd home, continued indifpofcd during.the remaining part of the day. In the nneanwhiit;. Sir George Staunton and Colonel Benfon diftributed to eich c,{. the- foldicrs and fervants, fome pieces of filk, others of dongarce, a. Icihd of nankeen, and a piece of filver, ftf about fixteen ounces, as a-prefent from his In^-jiirja] Majefty. -'The iftptica!, .tnechanka], and- mathematical inftru-monts-being rcinoved frona the-.pahiGe of Yeumen-man-yenmen, the gentlemen and mechanics were difmilTed ffom'Vnwr aftcridancJc there. ' 'On a trial of the powers ctf-foiTfi«' rtf-the-.arUcl'eS-bcfort the mandarins, they failed in-t^le^iffe-ßtS' äfc-ribed to', them, änd others excited little ffirpriZe or adini-ratioft 'in .ihcChincfc. literati who viewed tkeni ; -this th'ß gn^d Dr. Dinwiddie and Mr. Barrow immediately attributed to their grßfs ignorancc and ob-, ft'inacy-,' ■■ ' . ; . - ■ ■ A reporr began to,circulate, that wc were foon to quit-i Te-kin, ■ It occadoned a.confidtrable fliare of fpccula-tion, but it obtained lefs credit than afterwards appeared tobe due to it: the carpenters were however employed in ftrengthening the cafes which contained the prtfents. for St. James's, and. In ,the-afternoon of the 7th this, report, which at firft met with on!yva.'faintbelief in ge-. ncral, was confirmed by an order from the Ambalfador. to prepare for our departure on the Wcdnefday foDow-ing, being only two days notice-. Our furpriiß and concern may cafily be conceived. After a variety of fatigues,; we had cor.foled ourftlvcs that wc fhould now have enjoyed fome repofe; but all perffmal cpnfjder.Ttilsns were ab-forbed in public atSjirfi, in which the hnmbleft individual felt aa intcreft. The grand objeäs of the cmbafTy: iverc evidently unaccompliilicd ; and .in our attachment embassy to ciun'a; ' 77 woiir -country, its honour, and advantage, \vc forgot wery other care. To fiibmit, however, we were obliged, and nothing appeared to us polFibie to be done but an attempt to gain a-little refpite, till the baggage was packcd up and arranged ; this fecmed a reafonable demand, the attendant mandarin tjierefore inade the rcqnifition, and an order arrived from the (irand Choulaa to fufpend our departure till Friday: but judge our altoninnncnt, when the ne)(t morning this was countermanded by the Emperor hiinibif, and wc were exprefsly (.rdered to depart on the day ftrii: intimated. It is not to be fiippofed that our fitiiation could enable ■ tis to judge of the reafons on -fthich this unexpected-mandate was founded. It was reported by the Chi- ■ ntfe, that as the biifinefs on the part of the Emperor was already completed, he was furprifed the EngUnt-AmbafTador was notanxious to return to his o-wn country-It was alfo faid, that his Majelfy was alarmed at the number of our fick, leli: any contagion iliould be communicated to his fubječla : nor were there perfons wanting who afcribed his determination to an averiion con-traflcd againilus, from the lldlland ingenuity we evinced in thofe engines of deitruftion, the brafs mortars, which were tried in his prefence. It was faid he deprecated the fpirit of a people, who, contrary to tlie avowed, benign principles of.their religion, had made fuch a profi-. ciency in arts which feemed to contradidl them all. . Many- other reports of a iimilar nature were propagated ; bitt the reafon afiigned by the Chinefe government was the near approach of winter, when the rivers •would be frozen^ and the journey to Canton, through the fiflrthcrn provinces, be attended with incojivcnietice.and ffowtltd with impediments, To fpecitlate on the policy that aÖuated the court of Fe-kin on ihis occafion, would be vain ; neither (hall wc prcfiirne to afcribe it to any niifconctiiia or mifmanage-mcnt ; but the manner in -which the embaffy was dif-iTiiir«! was certainly ungracious, and mortifying in the «xtreme ; for fuppofing it to be the policy of the Chi-iicfc govf rnmcat, that no foreign minifter fhall be received, but on particular occafions, and that he öiall not lemain in the country after he has finifhed his particular raiflion ^ it does not appear that the burincfs was at all advanced which Lord Macartnty was employed to negotiate ; and his Lordßiip certainly would not have formed donncfHc arrangements, if he had not confidered himfelf certain of remaining at Pe-kin throughout the whiter, and of fucceedingin the obje£t of hii; embalfy. At this time a marine, who, with thj'ee others, had been taten from on board the Lion, to fill the vacancies occafioned by the death of fome of tbe foldiers, died of the flux ; and to prevent this circumllance from being known his corpfe was carried away in the night. Lord Macartney now fent his own ftate carriage as a prcfent to the Grand Choiilaa, who refufcd to accept it. It was then re-demanded, but no anfwer was returned to this requeft, and fo fhort was tlie period allotted lis to ftay, and fo much was to be done in it, that there was no time to make farther inquiries concerning it, or the reafons for the behaviour on the part of the minifter by whom it was refufed. The confufion arifing from this fiidden and imex-peftcd event, rendered it impolTible to arrange the baggage with any order. We huddled it together in the befl: manner that circiimllances would permit. Suiile ar-tiolps which could not be packed up, or were now irftlcfs, were given to the mandarins j the natives took care ta purloin a fhare, and Lord Macartney's fervants had the canopy of ftate. We fet out on the road that leads to Tong^-tchew at a very early hour on the morning of the 9th, and rcached that town in the evening. Kveji the thoughts of being on the return to our country failed to relieve the gloom of difappointment ; and to increafe our unpfeafant fenfa-tions, we met with neglečl and wretched accommodations compared to what we had experienceii before ; for the apartments in which we were lodged here were only temporary fliedsj himg with IVraw matting. We have already mentioned the coiiduiS of the Grand Choulaa, refpe£tlng Lord Macartney's chariot. On our arrival, however, at Tong-tchew, it had found its way ihithcr before us, and was ftationed oppofite the place appointed for the reception of the embairy, furrounded by crowds of Chincfe ; many of its ornaments were defaced, and it was otherwife injured. It was, however, drawn down lo the river fide, and a cafe being made lor it on the fpot, to fecure it from farther iujury, It was re-«onfigned to the hold of a junk, and finally fent to figure at Madras. Next morning, on proceeding to the fide of the river, we found the junks intended for our reception. Tht baggage was put on board with all poflible expedition^ but not witliout a degree of confulion beyond what wc had yet known ; for all the attention before paid to thq^ AmbafTador and his fuite feemed now to be forgotten; things being, however, at length adjufted, we went on board our junks, and the attendant mandarin and hfs party followed in feparate velTels. Soon after the embarkation was completed, dinner was ferved up ; and at aa early hour we retired to reft, after a moll fatiguing day. On the I Ith, at a very early hyur, the junks were un-niovred, a«d the fleet proceeded down the iiver: but as ■we have already given a dcfcription of tlic country throilg!* ivhich it fiows, and the l(x:al circumflajiccs attending of itj ■wc fliallpafs oil to the ptiriod when we quitted the natural for an artificial river ; indeed nothing occurred worthy of obfcrvationj but that though we Hill attracted ilic no-ticu of the inhabitants who lived near ihc river, the rc-fpedlful and ceremonious attentions of our former voyage were entirely difcontinued. On the 16th we left the channel of the river, and entered a canal conftrnfted wiih infinite labour and expenfe. The fides are mafonry throughout its extent; and at 'ccrtain diflanc'es locks, in the form of a crefcent, arc ■fresätd, wiiich confining the vt^ater to a narrow paflage in tlie middle, uf the canal, occafions a moderate fall of about three feet. The motion of the junks is accelerated in palüng thefe locks, and continues to fome dif-tance ; and to prevent the velFels receiving any damage from llriking ayainft the walls of the lock, men are always ready to let down large leathern pads, which effectually break the fliock^ In the courfe of this day we pafTed a number of thcfa loeks, whofe conlhuflion and effeds wc found invariably the fame. ' For. feme days wc failed through a country rich irt agricnluire and population. Wc obferved plantations of the flirnb which produces the imperial and gunpowder tea. In fize and figure it refembles the goolbcrry-bufli. Imperial tea is the produce of tJ>e firft blolloms; gunpowder- tea is a colletTiion of the fucccfiive bloffoms as they appear. Kol only the exterior marks of refped had been with-? diawn from the cmbady by the Chinefc, but we even found our provifiotis deficient, both in quantity and quality. A reprcfentation to the'mändarih, however, procured immediate rcdicfs in this particular j and j^l w^ farther reported, that the fame benevolent charafler had exerted hlmfclf with effeči: to do away fome very unfa* vourable imprefllons, with which a Tartar mandarin had prejudiced the Emperor agalnft the Englifh, by repre-fenting them as divcfltid of every amiable quality, and addicted to every vice. Oil the 2oth we paffed iiumcrous plantations of tobacco ; a plant cultivated here in the greateft variety, and to tlie greateft extent of any conntrv in the world. Indeed fmoa k ing being the univerfat prailice from infancy to old age> tlie quantity of tobacco confumed in China mnft exceed all moderate calculation: Several confiderable cities appeared at a fmall diflancc from the canal ; the garrifons from which advanced to the banks to give the ufual falutc, and the people to gratify their curiofity. We paffed a number of bridges and feveral corn-mills, worked by water, and apparently on the fame conftruc-tion as thofe in Europe. A lofty pagoda, of eight ftories, opened to our view on the morning of the 23d ; but not different apparently from thofe we had before feen. Next day we faw the Chinefe poft pals along the road on the margin of the canal. The letters are inclofed in a large bamboo baft ket, hooped with cane ; it is then locked, and the key is given into the cnftody of one of the foldiers, who delivers it to the poft-mafter. The bafket is then trapped on the courier's fhouiders, and being dccorated with a number of little bells at the bottom, they make a loud jingling when fliaken by the motion of the horfe, and an-nonnce the approach of the port. Five light-horfemen cfcort the courier ; and as the fleeteft horfes are feleded, and changed at every ftage, the mails in China are con-vey«d with extraordinary expedition and fafety. M The junJcs anchored on the evening of the following day in the heart of a large city, through which the canal pafTes. A continual fticceilion of bridges connefls ihe banks, and thefe are guarded by foldiers, who fnfler no veffel to pafs till a mandarin has infpcilcd it. The fleet Iicre received a falüte of three gtins, and a numerous body of fohiicrs lined the banks, wiio, wearing large helmets, and being completely armed, had a very military ajipearancc. We foon arrived at Kord^chceanng, a city of equal nagnitiide with the lift ; in the center of whicli we faw a pagoda of ten ilories, eacli furrounded by a gallery. After paffing fuveral large cities in the courfe of this day's voyage, we anchored for the night at Lee-yaungoa, ■which was illuminated in honour of the Amball'ador^ Public attentions, indeed, begaji again to be more frequent, and ccremonioiilly paid. We paflcd the city of Kaimghoo on the afith, and found fiich an amazing number of junks lying there that our pafTagc was impeded for fomc time, and we were obliged to come to anchor, in order to give opportunity for a pafTage to be made beiwcen them. The canal winds through this place and its banks Hope down to the ■ water in a very beautiful form. Every fpot in our palfage gave teflimony to the exiftencc of art, and the efFefls of indiillry, as well as of prodigious population. On the iQth, palling feveral exten-Jive fields, we obfervcd the peafants pUjiighing ; they worked with ()K.en, and though their ploughs were of a very clunify form, compared with tiiofe of England, the labour feemcd to be neatiy and properly executed. A repetition of the meagre incidents that fell in our V'ay would be tirefome. Towns, bridges, locks, and junks, fields covered witli plenty, and people beyond talcitlation, were nov/ conamon objects, .S On the 30th we Aiw a fleet of jun!;s laden with tea tor the Canton market; nor was it an unnatural, or iinintcrefting obrervatiou which many of us made, thai in the chance of commerce, fome of tlieir cargoes might ultimately be coniigned to our own country, and arrive tiicrc bcfiire us. The profpcdls around us were now conftaiuly enlivened by pagodas and country feats ; fomc of whicli were adorned with beautiful gardens, and others lur-rounded with the fmc!l orchards \vc had ever beheld. On the 3lit in the morning, the fleet palFcd through a ■walled city, where the vail number of junks which covered its canal, juflify the opinion of its extendve commerce. In its neighbourhood there arc large j^Ian, tations of tea and tobacco, and the next morning we palled feveral fields of cotton, which lo us formed a plcaHng and novel appearance. The canal became much more expanded; and on the 2d of November wc reached a city of great extent and trade. Several canals meet here ; and oil the fouth fide of ii is a bay, communicating with the Yellow river, in which the noblelt fleets of Europe might ride. The hills in the vicinity are beautifully grc-cn ; their fummits are crowned with pagodas, while villas and gardens adorn the lower flopes. PafTnig through the bay, in which various oppofite currents meet, wc foon entered the river, and found ourfclves again embofomt:'! i" ^ delightful country. ' I'own opened on our enchantcd fenfes after town ; and no words can convey an adequate idea of the pic-tnrefque fcenery that furroutided us,^ About the hour of dinner, wc arrived at a town of uniifual magnitude and beauty, througli which the river ßowcd for the fpace of three miles; the houlcs wu"8 M ^ uniformly built of brick, vancd with a btuifh-coloured ftone, and generally rife to two ftories high. Here wc rcccivcd the miiitary honours fo often mentioned and indeed it may in general be obfervetl, that there was neither town nor village through which wc pafTcd, that had not its mandarin and its proportionate number of guards and troops, not only in China, but alfo in tile remote and lefs populous regions of Tartary. In the afternoon we jinchored, for fome time, at another confiderabic town, where the junks ftopped to lake in a fiippiy of wine. This town is fituated on the fide of a large lake, which, in fome places, was di-yidcd only by a bank from the river on which wc were frilling. The country foon after affumed a fwampy appearance; the natural confequence of fo many rivers, canals, and lakes, which jntcrfed it, and promote its commercial inlcrcourfe. The weather was cold and the mornings frofty. The climate, iinqueilionably, is afFc£led by the targe bodies of water which every where abound in this part of the country. We now iinderliood, that it was the Yellow river on which wc were failing, probably fo called from fome communications with the Yellow fea. We pafTed feveral lakes, and on tiic 3d faw a number of fifhing-boats employed in their vocations, and procured from them a finali fiDi, about the fizc of a fprat, but in flavour and form rcfettibling the haddock. On the oppofitc fide of this lake we difcovered a very large city, built with a dark-coloured ftone, and roofed with tiles of the fame hut. This place appears to be aboiit eight miles in circumference i and from the drefs and manners of its inhabitants, we could eafily determine was both commercial and polite. At the extremity of the wall of this city we dropped ü«r anchor for the night. Next day wc paffed two other large bkcs j and fonn if'ter rcachcd the town of Kiaiig-fou, wliicli is large and wiillcd. A mandarin and his guards appeared, to give the cuftomary faliites i arid at each end of llic line of troops, a temporary arch was eredted, with a platform reaching down to the river, very elegantly adorned, to afford a landing to the AmbafTatior, fhoiild he happen to bo difpofed to Itop. At a fmall dilbncc tents were pitched, in the center of which was tlic mandarin's pavilion, wliere a collation was ready for tlie entertainment of his Excellcncy and the mandarins in onr fleet. But the order of the voyage prevented them from accepting this tribntc of hofpitality and politcnds. Beyond this, we canic to another large town of fii-perior beauty, wiicre we (lopped to receive a fupply of piovilions, and to be fitrniOied with men to tow t!\c junks. Here we were gratified wiih the fight of a nnmber of fine women, whofe features were beautiful and complexions uncommonly fair. Ill t!ie afternoon we palled a town which could not be lefs than nine miles in circumference. The walls are of iminenfe height, and feem to be ancient. Several hundreds of junks were moorei! along its wharfs. On the 5th we entered a large take, adorned with a variety of beautiful ilbnds; the mofl confidcrable of them contains the palace of a mandarin, with moft elegant fnromer-hoiifes, plantations, and gardens ; here 4lfo a. lofty rock rofc amid the trees, and fupported on its top a (lately pagoda. We foon entered another river, whofe banks becamp highly piflurefnue, on which, and the adjoining heights, we faw a variety of villas, with gilt pyramids rifing from the r()ofs, whicl) g.ave them the appearance of üolhif iirchitcilt»fe. At ifie city of Mee-you-mee-avvng wc flopped t» tilfc in the cuftomary fiipply of provifions. Naiure fefjjiis to have formed this place for the purpofes of navigation and commerce, and rural beauty to have fixed her refidence in its vicinity, Another ohjeiEl here prefented itfelf of a very different nature, and which, by its contraft, acquired additional importance. A body of foldicrs were drawn up on an cfplanade, the line of which extended near a mile ; they ■were divided into companies diftingniflicd by the variety of tlieir uniforms, which, together with the number and colours of their flandaids, offered a very beautiful fpeftacle. No other objefl, for ä confiderable time, attradtcd our notice, except a fmall dock-yard tor bLiikling-junks, cnclofcd in a fine grove, which formed a plealing and picElurcfquc fcene. The river now appeared to be proceeding boldly on into a rich, fertile country, but of more unequal furfacc than any we had yet feen ; when, Iiy an unexpedted meander, it brought us back to the city. Here we palfcd through another large bridge, near a circular baüion which commanded, by its battery, every diredlion of the river. On another tiirn of the ftream we difcovcred a very fine hill before us, the fuminit of wliich is crowned ■with a magnificent pagoda, and the declivities beautiikd with all the decoration that could be conferred by beautiful gardens and elegant buildings. At the fool of this elevated fpot are two flone gateways, which open to a walk (hat winds gradually up the hill to the pagoda. This hill appears to form a part of the gardens belonging to the mandarin, whofe palace is fituated on the banks of the river, from whcnce a broad flight of fteps afccnd? to the gate of the outer court. This edifice, in its fize and appearance, is fuited to the dignity of Its poireffor, and, like other buildings of the fume kind and charader in China, is perfeflily uniform in all its parts. The body of the houfe rifes to three florics, and the ■wings are clirnini/hed to two. A paved court occupies a large fpace in the front; and the whole is enclofed by a wall, including a large garden, that extends to the beautiful hil!, of which a very inadequate (ketch has been already given. The country continued to make advances in beauty ; fields full of fertility, with their fhady enclofures ; farms enibofomed in orchards ^ villas, and their gufdens, w» liad long been accuftomed to behold, but now a mountain rofe before us, not rugged and barren, but verdant to its very top ; while innumerable herds of catitle, and flocks of iheep, adorned its Hoping pafhires- Anotlier town foon fucceeded, and to (hat a lake, fur-roumled by iiills of the fame kind, and covered with fhecp and cattle. From this deliglitful fituation we palfed through a lock, and between a draw-bridge into a canal, that divides another large commercial town. Here wc obferved a brick-kiln, and a pile of bricks juft made the materials of which appeared to be a kind of fand, mixed up with the mud of the river ; the kiln itfelf was built with the fame materials, in the form of a pyramid. In the evening we pafTed a large walled city, apparently fimilar to thofe we had before feen, and fcveral pagodas being illuminated, in honour of the Amhalfador and mandarins, had 3 very pleafing appearance amid the gloom of night. The Chinefe houfes are not only varied in their ftile »nd decorations, but even the towns are in fome mcafure marked by the colour of the materials of whiclj they arc built. On the 6tlt of November we entered a towS of a tnoll clifiiial hue ; it was wholly ereiSlcd of bhick brick, and as the hoiifcs were more lofty than ihofe generally feen in this country, being none lefs than two and many four ftories high, its peculiar character made tlic flronger impredion on our minds. We palled a itonc bridge of three arches, and foon after reached the mandarin's palace ; a Hone building of lingular architeiSture. On each fide of the principal gate are two lofty walls painted red, to prevent the building from being feen but in a front view. Tlie gateway ia cnrichcd with fculpture, and the ufiial accompaniments of Cliinefe charadters ; it is of floiic, and fupports an apartment. The houfe itfelf is painted of different colours, with a ftone gallery in front, and covered with a roof of the fame material. The mandarin who refidcd here had caufed a temporary ftage, or platform, to be erected, from the palactf to the fide of the river, in cafe the Ambafi'ador, and the inandaiins, Jhould find it convenient to land. The root of this building was covercd with filk of various colours, a number of lamps fancifully adorned with gauze and ribands were fufpendcd from It, and the floor was covered with a fine, variegated matting. He had alft» caufcd a large fcrcen, or curtain, of this matting, to be fixed on the oppolite fide of the water, for the purpofc of hiding foine ruinous buildings, that would othcrwii'e have difgraced the gay piilure he had contrived by thei deformity. Tlic foldicrs under tlic command of this mandariit were of a ditFerent appearance from any we had feen, as they wore red hats with a very higii and pointed crown ; on the iidc of which was a brafs plate, that appeared ttr be failcncd with yellow ribands. r Of the elegant hoipiiality of this mantiariji we were not allowed to partLikc, by the circuiiiftance qf our vuyage. A fiicceffion of towns, locks, bridges, and pagodas, appeared in rapid fiicceflion for fome hours, and in the afternoon we faw a very large country refidencc at fonic dfftance, with a lofty pagoda rifiiig, as it perfpec-tiveiy appeared, from the center of it. The tower terminated in a cupola, with a fpiral ornament riiing from the top, crowned with a ball, from each fide of which a chain hiing down, till it touched the upper ft which was to be fent to Chufan, being feparatcd from the light articles we were to carry with us to Canton, Colonel Bcnfon, Captain Mackin-tofli, and party, fet off to join the Hindoftan at Chufan, on the 5th day after our arrival; and the fame day we alfa left Hoang-tchew, after the Ambaffitdor had diilributcd ten dollars to the owner of e:ich junk, for their refpcc-tive crews. The AmbafTador, accompanied by his retinue, proceeded on the 14th of November for the Green river, where we were again to embark in fmaller jimks. Cn pairing the city gates, the embalTy received the cullomary falute. Between the two rivers, the diftance could not be Icfs than fcven miles, and the whole fpace was covered by the city and fubiirbs, and lined witli ibldiers, whofecnred us from the preiTiire of an innumerable multitude of people, who crowded to fee us. The ftrcets are narrow, but well paved, the houfes two and three (lories high, and the magnificence of the ihops was beyond any thing we had hitherto feen. In commercc and population, Hoang-tchew is a city of the firit nuig-nitude. At noon we reached the Green river, wlierc the Am-b-affadoT was received with military honours. The troops were armed with helmets, and made wiili tJieir accompa-riimenis a fplendid appcarance. A triumphal arch, with a platform defcending to tlifc AmbalTador's junk, had been ereäed for the occafiou. Our embarkation was attended by a concourfe of people, great beyond defcrtption. Some were mounted on buffaloes, which animal carried feveral at a time on its back, and appeared very docile ; others were in carts, •äravyn by the fame aiiima!. N 2 Our jiHiks were fmall, but very neatly fitted up, arJ our voyage was coiitiiiiied between ranges of moiiiitainS', prefenting tlie moit romantic fcenery. The vallies were covered with tallow and mulberry trees: the former of which is remarkably beautiful. Tha river oti which we now failed, was, al a medium, about three feet deep : the water has a green caft, and the bottom is gravelly. Iti the evenirlg of the 15111, we faw the city of Zan^ guoa, vvhic!) made a moft brilliant appearance with its illuminations, and the cfFe£l was increafed by numerous bodies of foldicrs ranged along the banks of tb« river, with paper lanterns.- Next day wc paffed fevcral ftdne pagodas ; t!ie features of the connrry through which wc failed, were ilill moiin -frtinoiis and piftnrefqiie, prefenting often plantations of tallow and iinilbcrry trees; and the forts and fahites became fo frequent, that they grew abfülutcly ttrefome. Indeed, fi) much military honour was paid to the embaffy, thjit' the falutcs could only be compared to a train of wild-fire laid from lloang-tchew to Canton, stud continually exploding as we proceeded. About ilircc o'clock in the mornrng of the 17th, wt were awakened by a difchargc of artillery ; we perceived, by the number of lanterns, that a large body of foldiers were drawn up on the fhore : a lighted torch was fixed to the carriage of every gun, and the bearer of each ftand of colours was diltinguillied by a flambeau, whic^ gave new brilliance and cffedl to thi^ military illumination. In an early part of tliis afternoon, the fleet anchored oppofite a fmall, but very ncLit town, and, in a fhori time, tlie condu£i,ing mandarin vifitcd the junks, and didributed to the whole of the Ambaffador's-train, according to their rank, prcfcnts of perfumes, fans, imperial tea, and nankeen. Öfi the i8th, the rouiitvy changed to a fine clum-^ialgn, ill which niiiiierous villages rofe amidfl plan-»attoüs of tallow and nuilbcrry-trees. This day wc p-iirL'ti a group tfi water-mills, all turned by a fmall v:"t from the river, flowing in a circular tiireflioii. Thcfc apj^earccl to be on the European conilručUon, sne!, as wt" iindcrilüod, were employed in threlhing riet. The provifions which we now recteived, ihougliby nr> means tiehcient in (j\iantityy were far inferior in quality to thofe We had been aceuftoined to receive in the former part of oiir jounicy ; this defei^l we were given to iinder-ibnd arofe from tlic nature of the conntry, rather than from any iiiattciition to the comfort and convenience of The embafiy. Indectl, there could be no reafon to fiippofc t!iat the PjiTiperor tiacl not even been anxious to render onr departute from his kingdom as a^Tceable as refpedl and exterior honoiir could make it. 'i'lje folbiving day the banks of the river refimied the wfual appcarancc, and long rangeü of ntountains role jjito the liorizon. The ao!h brought us to a largo and beantiful town, ivliere we were as^ain to difcmbark. The feencry her« Eiiii^iit iiave advantageouüy empluvtd the warmell pencil. The river formed a central object i on one (ide was tlw 'own, with its appropriate rircuudbuees, and a inilitarj.-encampmtnt in front, with all its gatidy cn[igns ; on tjie other lide lofty perpendicular lülli botmded the view in the nioit fiibüme ftile. Having diiembarked, wc proceeded next day by hncf, fome in palankins, others in fedans and bamboo chairü, or 0^1 liorfeback, as their fancy led them, for the attend-ara inandarin always conltdted us on the mode in wl;ic!i -^e vviilied to travel, and as far as poflible accomniodatej Wi, VV't fooH reachcd the city of Chanfoiyeng, >vherc z the AinbafTIidor was received with due cliltinflion. Tlib ftrctts ot' tliis city are narrow, and the ihops wliich line hotli fides of the ftreets, are in the ufual ftile of Chinefc order and fplendoiir. Leaving this, we pafled another walltd city, and fcveral villages, and arrived at the city of Yoofaiin, wliere we were again to embark early in the afternoon ; here we drank of tea at the palace of the mandarin, aud having ftowed t!ic baggage on board another flt-et of jiinks, provided for our accommodation, vvc went on board, anxious to proceed on our voyage, which mi account of a lieavy rain, we could not do till the 23d. On the morning of the 24th of November, we foimd onrfelves before the city of Maminenoa. The river now ran between enormons maifes ot loofe ftone, without any continuity or conncÖion, exhibiting the appearance of having been fubjeclcd to fome convulfion of nature. Some of thefe huge ftoncs liad been excavatcd Into dwellings, and every interlUce between them was occupied by gardens, and their attendant buildings. This (Ui-pcndous fcenery continued for fevcral miles; it was grand, perhaps unique in itfclf; and where it admitted of views into the more difbnt country, it produced a moit delightful pitture. We reached the city of Hoa-cproo in the afternoon, where, much to our fatisfaflion, we found larger junks ready to receive us. The mandarin of tlie place politely fent a variety of fruits and confectionary for the ufe of every junk, except that which contained the foldiers. The coiitury through which we palled was rich and ferliie, a few red rocks occafionally broke the level of the fccnd, and a number of rice mills were at work. The fog was fo thick on the morning of the 26th, as to obfcure the country ; about noon it difperfed, and the eye ranged over a level extent of rice fields, interfeclccJ with villas and gardens. Our provifions had for fbme time been very indifferent, not from iieglcčl, hut the nature of the country. In proportion as wc fared worfc, our Ciiinefe junk-men fared better ; they received not only our fuperfluity, but fometimes aimoft the whole. The 27th prefcntud a novel fcene, a village entirely buiit of mud, with inhabitants as wretched in appearance as their habitations were mean. For this fight we were tmable to account, in a part of the country where the Iil-habitants feemed induftrious, and the earth fertile. We this day received from the mandarin prefents of caddies of tea for every perfon in the fuite. On the 28th the river affuraed a formidable breadth, and as the wind was high, the waves and furf refembled thofe of the fea. Wc continued through the day to pafs numbers of fifhing boats, which ferved to vary the navigation of the ftream. In the afternoon of this day we pafTed the city of Tyaung-Oii-fennau, which, for extent and the advantages of fituation, unqueftionably dcferves to be reckoned one pf the firft in China. Not lefs than a thoufand junks lay at anchor before it. It is built near the conflux of fe-verai rivers, and enioys a moft extenfivc commerce ; the grand mandarin of this city paid a vifit to his Excellency on board his junk, and made a variety of prefents in fifk, porcelain, fcarlet cotton, coloured Huffs, tea, and elegant fmelling bottles. The only novelty that prefented itfelf in the courfe of our voyage on the 29th, was a village built with blue bricks, and covered with tiles of the fame colour. Cities, pagodas, aad the palaces of mandarins were now bccome familiar obje£ls, but prefented nothing new, and without this tiefcription woiiUi be tedious, and the reader will perhaps fay we have already been too minute. We jiaffed two brick kilns and furroimding villages, and the foilowisig day we paßcd a city lying amid bc;ui-tiful meadows and orchards, about two miles diftancc from the river. Beyond this the profped became as delightful as fancy can conceive. Mountains rofc into »he horizon, forefts waved on the Jiopes, and (locks und herds covered the vales. Numerous citics and villages lined the banks of the river, ^^■hich now expanded to a great breadth, and as the wind blew frefli, the junks Ibnictimes appeared to us in danger of buing overfet. At this tiine the thermometer had funk to forty, and liic fields were covered with frort, It has been remarked before, that there are no public cemctcrics, except in the vicinity of populous |>laccs'. Hence the country becomes a continued burial ground. Which ever way we turned onr eyes, feme trophy of death appeared, and tlic degree of embeliifiiment it had leccived, marked the rank of the deceafcd. Indeed, U is not unufual for the Chinefc to creä: their funeral mo-niimcnts in iheir life-time, and as the choice of fitua-tion is free, many of them bucome pi£lurefcjuc ob-ječts. On the ift of December, after pafllng Taung-faung-a!r, we failed by the town of Saunt-y-tawn, where fc-veral fnperb pagodas rofc above the furnnmding groves^ Numerous timber yards occupied the hanks of the rivcfj and a large quantity of timber was immerfed in the fhcam, which, as we were told, was in a ftate of prepar ration for the building of junks, the principal biiftnefsof the place. Wc were this day faluted with more than ufnal honour by the fort of May-taun-go, which we paiTcd ; as wc lilccwifedid a ftately pagoda on the oppofite fide of the river. The citics of I^oo Dichean, Morriun Dew, and Chic-a-fou, which we now approaclicd, all lie contiguous to each other, and art and nature have iinitcd their efforts to increafe the beauty of this charming vicinity. At a diftance we obierved va[t columns of ftnoke, which rofe, as we were informed, from a porcelain ma~ niifaflory. In the evening wc reached the city of Cliiiiga-fou. Here illnminations, which were peculiarly brilliant, the firing of rockets and of artillery, took placc in honour of the AmbafTador. We received alfo a prefentof fruit and confeflionary from the mandarin of the place. To note every objcft which arretted and pleafed the eye of the traveller, would fatigue the reader without informing him. Every bend of the river opened a new profpet ihe fame character, tiiough of a ililFcrciit form. As a range of hills may be faid to liave coiirtliiclcd us along the river to thefe rttipemlous ohjcils, fo a fiiccc([ion of tiie fame kiiid cutitiimed diiritig a cmirfe of fevcral miles after we had left tiient ; but it was the pcculijr office of this extraordinary night t<> awaken our allo-iiiniment by the grand exertions of art, a; well as by the flupenclous works of nature ; for, at the conchifion of this chain of hills, tliat had fo long excluded any view into tlie country, we were furprifed with a line of light extending ior fevernl miles over mountains and vallies, at fome diltaiicc from the river, and forming one uniti-tcrniptefi blazing outline as they rofe or funk in the horizon. In fonio pnrts of this brilliant, undulating line, it varied or thickened, as it appeared, by large banils or groups of torches ; arid, on the moll confpicuous heights immeiifc bonRres threw their flames towards the clouds. Nor was .this all, for the lights not only cJr-cumfcribcd the outline of the mountain, but foinetiincs I'ofe uj) it in a fL'rpentine form, and cont)c£icd, by ä fpiral iU-eum of light, a large fire blazing at the bottom, -with that which reddened the fummit. The nundiL-r of hintcrns, lamp?, or torches, employed oil tliit occai'mii, are beyoud all calculation, as the twu extremities of tlie iUuQiinatcd I'pace, taken in a ftraight line, v/ithui;: eflimating the iinkings of tlie vallies, or the int(^uality of the mountaia tops, could nut contain a lefs dlflance from euch other ib;in three miles. Whether thefe lights were heW by an army of foldiers, or were fixed in the groiitui, we couid not learn ; but it -was ccrtaiijly the moil magnificent illiiminntioit ever fecii by any Eiivopfjan traveller, ami ttie molt fplendid compHmcnt ever paid to the public dignity of an European ambaffador. Succeflive difcharges nf artillery were, at regular dlftances, added to the honour of this (iiperb fpeöaclc. On the 151h tlic grand mandnrin ordered t!ie fleet to cöme to anchor, for the purpofe of indiilgitig ihe em-bnlly with a view of the mouiitaiii of Koan-yeng-naum, oue of the natural curiofities ot China. It has per-pendleuhir afcent frmn the water, terniinating in a peak ; and trom the face towards the river, fuch cnormoits malFes projcft, as apparently menace every moment to fill np the channel of the itreatri. But art Iias^ heighteiied tlie curious clrcumflances of this extraordinary moiiiitain. It contains fcvera! caverns. One of them is about forty feet ahove the level of tiiCi'water. To this there is accels by n fligiii of fieps, guarded by a rail. On reaching the top of the flight, wc enter a rooin of good dimenfions, excavated from the rocii, in which ftands an image facred to Chincfe devotions. An .irtificial fiaircafe condučis to two -other fupcrior apartments ; and the whole Is fitted lip by the mandarin lo whom the mountain belongs, in flile of rude magnificence, ccrrefponding t(j the cha-lafler of the place. Proceeding through a couittry prefenting many Tub-lime featuresj we reached the city of &h)-iing-t;i-heng ubout noon. This place enjoys every local advantage that can contribute to render it piilnrcfcjue in ,1 tftgrec, Lofty banks for a confidcfable fpacc flnit out our view of the land; ajid where a cafiial openiiig gave a wider profpefl, jl was not marked with any new features. Si-riiiar obje£ls occurrcd—varied ojily by Hiapc, or difcri-initiated by light and fhadow. The cveiuijg was cheered with an illumination of the diitaiit hills. The cottp d'oeil was extremely grand, but inferior to what we had wiineifed before. Next day wc faw a number of Recp rocks, in various grotefqiie forms ; they were fometimes tinted with foliage, and fometimes the traces of laborious taüe, were the prevailing charader of the iandfcape they afforded. Among them arofe a large mountain, (haded by an hanging forefl:, which was alfo accompanicd with circum-ftances that enlivened and adorned it. At the foot of it a road had been cut out of the folid rock, and to communicate with it, a large arch of Hone has been built acrofs a deep chafm. In the centre of the wood, there is the pr.lacc of a mandarin, furrounded wlih detaciicd offices, and at fome fmall dillance a temple, which belongs to it, and contains the image which is the ufnal object of religious worfinp. There are fcveral burying places in different parts of she wood, which arc the maufoleums of tlie mandarin's family to whom the palace belongs. It is caUed Tre-Iiod-zau. This magnificent fccne, wliich, on a pariicular turn pf the river prefcnted itfelf, is much heightened by a contrafled fucccirion of bare and barren monntainsr We now reached the city of Tfing-yan-yeiin, a place well loriititd, and of great extent and population. The number of junks wliich lay before it, indicated an enlarged commerce, and the timber yards on the banks of tlic river pointed out its principal trade. Triumpha arches decorated the be.ich ; and feveral regiments of frl-fiicfs paid the military honours as we pafTed. From this ciiy the river takes a tllicil cOdiTe for fome miles, amitlft fertile and hij^hly cuhivated mtadows, and the mountains fall into the back ground. This afternoon one of the junks was in immiiicnt danger of being confnmed by fire occafioned by a fpark falling nnobferved from a tobacco-pipe. Indetd, wiicre fmoalcing is fo generally ufL-d, it is a matter of aRonilli-mcnt t)iat accidents arc not more frequent and fatal. On the 171(1 we palled the extenfivc village of Ouf-clioiiaa, where a number of inaniifačlories appear to be cdablillicd. "^i he country now refumed its fertility and beauty ; and provifions became belli plentiful and cxcel-knt. In ibe evening we rcached ihc city of Sangs-we-ytniio, wliert the Ambalfador received every honour that the nioft elegant attention on the part of the inanduriu could pay, or his Excellency exped. The illuminations difplaycd here were peculiarly grand. On the following morning we pafled a ferics of very large and populous towns, fo clofely coiineÖed, that wc feemed for fome hours to be failing through one city of immenfe extent. The fulutes were alraoll incefTani as we proceeded ; and every place poured forth thoufands qf its inhabitants, though at a very early hour, to obtain a tranfient view of an European embafiy. We now approached the city of Tayn-tfyn-tau, a place of great importance and the inoft extenfivc trade. The fuburbs lie on both fides the river for fcveral miles ; and if we may judge from thofe circuiulbnces that fell under our infpedlion, in extent, population, and commcrcc, this city is only inferior to Pekin or to Canton. Thoufands of junks covered the river for a vail Ijiacc; and fcarceiy had we overcome the difficulties and impediments oif this crowded navigation, before we found ourfelvcs approaching to Canton, tlie termination of our voyage. no NARRATIVJE OF TIIK Our arrival being notified at Canton, feveral manda-: rins w niiecl on his Excdlcncy ; and thefe-were foon fol-Io;tci! by the gentlemen of tlie Englifii fa£lory with tiic Bvitiih commifTi^ners end Colonel Benfon, This officer brought with him the public difpatches for the Am-bafTador, imd u p;ii.:kct of private letters from our friends in England, together with the newfpr pcrs which liad ar-j ivtd by the laft fnips. Thofc only who have been fo long iiiit oFT from any communication with the land which fjontained all thai was dear to them, can form an adequate idea of tiie anxious joy we felt at opening a letter from the relative or friend wc loved. Next day we were moved into larger jnnks. The wiagnificence of thii'river at this placc baffles defcription. lis furface was ainiofl' covered witii velFels, engaged in trade, or attračtfd by ftiriolity. The banks were lined with foldiers, and i^ovcred with elegant houfcs ■ and a. fticcefiion of forts thundered out faliites witli ahnoll in-cefiiiiU rapidity. We reached the 'EngUfli failory about one in the afternoon ; and both it and the Dutch fatSlory paid his P'x-fellcncy the urusl falute, hoifting at the fame time the llandard of their refpcdive countries. For fome days it bad been a common fight to fee the I'ioals generally rowed by women. Wc fometimes ob-ferved a child tied to its mother's back, and another at her brcai'l, wliile flie Was plying the oar. To a feeling mind this fpcdacle could not fail to give pain; and it may be remarked, that in Tartary, and'the northern provinces of China, where the women are lamed, either by fafliion or policy, from therr infant years, fuch laborious occupations can never fall to their lot, - A temporary refidcnce for the Ambalfador and ftiitc had been provided by the EaS^ India Company's fupcr-cargijes ; and in point of accommodation and domcflk; ätnmgementj' -we found it fupcrior to tlic firft pjilaccn i« w hich vvc lud lodged, (.luring our long pcrcgvination 'm China. As we liave already given a ilefčrlption of Canton, v: fliall forbear addijig any thing rcfpeöing it iji this placi'. For ftvcral days, during the time of di nncr, the Ani-bairador was entertained witli O'.inefc plays, performed on a ila^ie eredtti before the windows ot his apartmcuts, and the Viceroy viiited him once during Iiis Iky, which was followed by large prefents of porcelain, nankeen, and fiigar-candy to the whole retinifc. On the firl} clay of the new year, J 794, his Excellency and fiiite were fplcndidly entertained by the gentle-■ ineii of the Briiiiii faftory. The band of mtiiic which had accompanied thecmbaffy, on the reqiieA of the factory, were permitted to enter into its fervice ; and in a coisntry wlieje amiifuments are fo few and contined, it could not fail to be a valuable acquHiiion. Degeneracy of manners evidently marks the chai-ac^er cf the inliabilaiits of'Canton, and ihis rcfleiiion is the jnore melanclioly, as there is too nuich reafon to fuppofa the contagion c>f European example has infeÖed tli« limpücity of tli C Glui lefe general charaäcr i and rendered iheinfelves objedls lofi.contcmpt to the Chinefe government. C)n the.8t)i of January the Ainbiflador proceeded to Wliampoa to join the fliips. At the fmne time a deputation of the retinlie was difpatched to Macao, to make preparations for his Excellency's reception at that place; Whampoa, beyond which European [liips arc never pcTmittcd to pals, is an elegant and populous village, about ei^litecn miles below Canton. The river near this place is defended by a fand bank, whicli prevents the palBge of large lhip."i, cxcept high wstcr j ami two necks of land, projeding on each fide of it, form tiic celebrated llruit of Bocca Tigris. At this placc Vaii-Tadgt-In toijk his farewell leave of the AinbalTador. Our praifc or ccnfurc will not rcach a pcrfoii of his rank ; but in bcftowiiig praifc on tliis dc-fervedly diilingiillhetl pcrfonage and molt amiable of men, we gratify the beft feelings of the htiman heart, and at the fame time do honour to oiirfeives. This excellent charafler can never be forgotten by thofc who experienced his adiduotis care, his mild condcfcenfion, and his enliglitened condudl, during a long and tronblefome attendance on the cmbaiTy. He held an exalted rank in the Chinefe army—perhaps the highed ; but no dignity of fitiiation had rendered him inattentive to t!ie ininuteit offices of duty. His mind fcemed capable of rcfiečling honour on any rank ; with the niofl benevolent heart he iittached himfelf to the inferells of thofe in whofe fervice lie was employed ; he had even contraöed a friendfliip tor fome ; and his laft adieu to the Ambadador and fiiitc was accompanied by the tears of afFcilion. On the 14th Lord Macartney landed at Macao ^ ami took lip his refidence with Mr. Drummond, one of th<; lupercargoes of the Eaft India Company. Here the gentlemen of the fevcral European fadoiics have ttieir houfes ; as they are not permitted to remain at Canton longer than is abfolutely necclfary for the pnrpüfc of trade. The lojig intcrcourfe which has fnbftlled between Europeans and the Chinefe in this place, Ims not altered the cttabliihed cnlfnms and habits of the lalier. The Chinefe never deviate from the iifages of tiieir coiintry, wiiich may he confidered as invariable. Withoiit the wall is the common bnrying-grotjnd of the Chinefe; and in it we faw feveral memorials of our cuuntryiiieiJ, whofe aOies repofc heie. Tlmfu who fti the Roman Catholic faith have feparate cemeteries : the Chincfe, more libcial than tlie Cathcllcs, fufFcr their dufl to ir^ingle with ours. Here Mr. Plumb, the interpreter, though ofFered an haiidlbme cibblilliment if he chofc to return to Europe, (jiiittcd the fcrvice of the cmbafTy. He left his Englifli friends witii fenfibie regret; but naturally preferred paf-(ing the remainder of his days In the bofom of his family and his country. On the Sth cf Marcli, Lord Macartney and retinue embarked for Europe, amid the falutes of forts ami Jliips ; and being joined by a lirge homeward-bound fifct of Indiamen, on the 17t!! proceeded to fea. Nothing of any particular cdnfequencc happei^ed during our voyage. We arrived at St. Helena on the igtii of June, and remained there till the ift of July, On the 3d of September we were ferioully alarmed by running foul of a large fleet ofF Foriland Roads, which proved to be the Grand fleet commanded by Ear) Howe. Two or three of the Iiuliamen received feme damage; hilt, except in this inftance, oiirvoyarre was free from ac-i:ident, and barren of Jntercding occurrence. In the afternoon of this day we anchored fafeatSpit-liead, after an abfence of litile lefs than two years from our native land. In the courfe of the preceding narrative, it was mentioned tliat Captain Mackintofh, and a part of the ern-bafTy, proceeded from Hoang-tchew to Chufan. The fame kind of fcenery, we are informed, pre-fented itfelf in the paffage to Chufan as has been de-fcribed in the route wc made: but the river Itfelf was of a different nature from tliat on which we failed ; its coiirlb was occalionally broken by catarads of a fonnidable af-peä; and required all the ingenuity of the Chinefe to contrive ineans to obviate the difficulties of fuch a navi- gallon. Yet, ftrangc as it may appear, they apply Ac nicchanical powers to raife velfcls into a higher level oi the river, or fink them to a lower : to e(Fc£l which, two ftrong ftentions are fixed In the centre of the river, from wliich two large beams projeft over the water ; to thefe Mocks (Irong ropes are attached, and the jimk being well fecnrecl fore and aft, is in a few moments hoilted, with all its contents, from one level to another. Perfons ac-curtomcd to the bulmefs are ftationcd at thefe places ; and fo ccrtain and fcciire is their operation, that it is fcarcely regarded as an impediment or hazard. The fame attention, we underRand, was paid to Captain Mackintofli and his party, during their palTage to ChiiGin, as to the cmbafTy itfelf. FINIS, ai th^ Act davtt! Ji^'S.rjg^fy J.RidgwaT.Krj(. Stmt.Sf Jamfjj Ji/aaFf- \ ■ ■ f- . \ •••• -i.-, 'ir.'' - 4' i ■ «t a /. f ' * i - : : C.-;-■ V'.-, s &