* v.- <f%£•*•*.••.'. %••:•>•>? «i<T>-i** ■
m
JOURNEY
through
S   P   A IN
IN   the   years   I 7 8 6   and 1787; with particular attention
AGRICULTURE, MANUFACTURES, COMMERCE, POPULATION, TAXES, AND REVENUE
OF    THAT COUNT
a n n
REMARKS
in  passing through
A  PART  OF FRAN
By JOSEPH   TOWNSEND, A.M.
RECTOR   GF   PEWSEY, WILTS; AND LATE OF CLARE-HALL, CAMBRIDGE.
IN    three     volumes. ._ vol.1.
LONDON: printed for c. dilly, in the poultry. m. dcc. xci.
ERRATA.
Pac,e. line.
zi. 24. for bring hack, lege reduce.
37. 10. aiTifteJ at, lege was prcfent at.
46. 15. intercepted, Up interfe&ed.
117. 11. and much wanted, ice. lege fueh an inftitution is nnicW
wanted in England.
136. 19. comprehended, lege comprehending.
185. 11. algaroba, lege algarrobo*
ao 1. 6. fand clay, lege fand and clay,
aoi. to. nitre of fea-falt, Ugt nitre and fea-fal:.
219. 18. mine, lege mines.
253. 21. Antonia, lege Antonio.
301. xi. Borico, lege Borrico.
308. 2C Pominico, Greco, lege Dominieo Greer,
334. 24. back, is held, lege back or held up.
398. 10. aguarina, lege aguerina.
to the
EARL of W YCOMBE,
as  Most competent to judge of their merit,
these   sheets  a II e dedicated in    token Or
Esteem   and gratitude,
by his
lordship's sincere friend and devoted servant.
I QSEPH. TOWN SEND.
A %
CONTENTS
o f
VOL. I.
JLJlRECTIONS for travelling in
Spain — — i
yourney from London to Paris •—> 5 Cabinets of Natural Hiftory in Paris 13 Environs  of Paris   with   refpecl to
Fojjils >— — 30
Carnival at Paris      — — 39
Journey from Paris to Belgarde, with
Manufactures of Lyons —. 44. Journey from Belgarde to Barcelona 87
Barcelona,
vi CONTENTS.
Page-
Barcelona, with the Procefpons, Academies, Court of Inquijition, Courts of Law, Hofpiials, Houfes of Correction, Trades, Manufactures, Commerce, and Population —-   I06
Corns, Money, Weights and Meafures of
Catalonia — .—-155
Civil Hiftory of Barcelona   —    — 158
Environs of Barcelona, with refpeB to Foftils, Agriculture, and Botanical Productions — —    r 61
'Journey from Barcelona to Madrid, with a Defcription of Zaragoza, and the great Canal of Arragon   1 87
Madrid dejcribed with refpcEl to its Buildings, Palaces, Paintings, Academies, Manufactures of Saltpetre, Tapejlry, and China, Cabinets of Natural Hiftory, and Public TV alls — '— 249
Environs of Madrid, Aranjuez, Ano-ver, and Toledo, with a View to
Manufactives,
CONTENTS. vii
Page
Manufactures, Natural and Civil Hiftory, and the Manners of the Court .— — 293
Return to Madrid, with a Defcription
ofaBullFeaft      —       — 342
Journey from Madrid to the Afiurias,
through Valladolid and Leon 355
DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS
to the
ITINERANT  in SPAIN.
TO travel commodioufly in Spain, a man mould have a good conftitution, two good fervants, letters of credit for the principal cities, and a. proper introduction to the heft families, both of the native inhabitants and of ftrangers fettled in the country.
The language will be eafily acquired.
His fervants mould be a Spaniard and a Swifs, of which, one mould be iufficiently acquainted with the art of cooking, and with the iuperior art of providing for the journey j which implies a perfect knowledge of the country through which he is to pafs, that he may fecure a flock of wine, bread, and meat, in places where thefe excel, and
Vol, L B fuch
fuch a flock as may be iufficient to carry him through the diftricl:s in which thefe are not to be obtained. For himfelf, his fervants and his baggage, he mould pur-chafe three flrong mules, able to fupport the load which is to be put upon them. In his baggage he mould have meets, a mat-trefs, a blanket and a quilt, a table-cloth, knives, forks, and fpoons, with a copper vefTel fufficiently capacious to boil his meat. This mould be furniihed with a cover and a lock. Each of the fervants mould have a gun flung by the fide of his mule.
To travel as an ceconomifl in Spain, a man mufl be contented to take his chance for conveyance, and either go by the pofl, wherever it is eflablifhedj or join with officers, going to their various flations; to hire a coach, or quietly refign himfelf to a calafh, a calafine, a horfe, a mule, or a Borneo. Thefe laft are the mofl convenient for the pnrpofe of croiTing the country, or of wandering among the mountains. If he is to traverfe any diflri£t in-fefled by banditti, it will be fafe for him to go by the common carriers, in which cafe he will be mounted on a good mule,
and
t 3 J
and take the place which woukl have bcui occupied by fome bale of goods. Any one, who is fond of botany, for fhort excur* fions,  will make choice of a Borneo. Thefe are always to be had, when, as in fome villages, neither horfe nor mule ars to be obtained.   I have ufed this honourable appellation for the moft patient of all animals, becaufe I would not mock the delicacy of a young traveller* by telling him, at his firft fetting out, that he may fometimes find himfelf under the neceffity of riding upon an c\fs.   He muft, however, know, for his confolation, that an afs does not appear fo contemptible in Spain as in the  colder  regions of the north.
The belt time for him to begin this expedition is in autumn, when he may go by Bayonne, Burgos, Valladolid, and Segovia, haftening to the court at St. Ildefonfo* Here he is to procure letters for the chief cities in Spain.   On thefe will depend the whole pleafure of his excurfion. During the winter he may fee all the fouth of Spain, Toledo,  Cordova,  Seville, Cadiz, Gibraltar, Malaga, Granada, Carthagena,
B 2 Murcia,
(  4 1
Murcia, Alicant, Valencia, and Barcelona. Returning by Zaragoza to Aranjuez in the ipring, he may follow the Merino flock to the mountains of the north, whilit the country, on which he has turned his back, is rendered unfit for travelling, by the dif-folving heats, by want of proviiions, and by malignant fevers. This feafon will be belt employed in Gallicia, the Afmrias, and the provinces of Bifcay, taking Salamanca and Leon in the way.
Had I received fuch directions previous to my Spanifh journey, I fhould have efcaped a fevere fit of illnefs, which was occafioned by the intenfity of the fummer's heat. In England, intermittents are commonly afcrib-ed to marili miafma, but in Spain their origin is attributed to the flroke of the midday fun; and I am inclined to think this may often be the genuine caufe.
JOURNEY
JOURNEY
' FROM
LONDON  TO PARIS.
T SET out from London January 30th, JL 1786, and crofting the channel in the night, landed the next day at Calais, from whence, proceeding in the diligence, I arrived early on the 3d of February at the hotel de Menageries at Paris. From Calais to the vicinity of Paris is hilly all the way, the diflance is one hundred and fe-venty-feven miles. The country is open, moflly in tillage/and not well wooded; the foil is chiefly fand. Calais itfelf is in a plain, which is covered with pebbles. In the vicinity of Calais, the fand is light and apt to drive, but as you advance it becomes more firm, yet with hard rain it binds, and muft be therefore uncertain in its produce. As you leave Boulogne, the foil improves in B 3 ftiffnefs,
itiffnefs, till about Amiens, and nearer Paris, it becomes ftrong clay with little fond.
All the way through Picardy the rock is chalk, hard enough for building. As you advance into the Ifle of France, this chalk meets with the vitriolic acid, and becomes a folid gypfum, of this they burn great quantities now for their own confumption, but formerly for exportation. Paris has had the honour of giving its name to this ufe-ful kind of cement, as being the place from which we originally imported it.
The courfe of hulbandry, through Picardy, is for the firft year, wheat; the fecond, barley, or oats, followed by a fallow. They manure with chalk, with dung from the farm-yard, and with the fold. During the fix months of fummer they pen (heir fheep with hurdles on the fallows; but during the fix winter months the flocks are confined all night, both for fhelter and for fafety, in clofe pens, where they make a quantity of good manure. The fheep are fmall. The flicpherd goes before them. Together they make a beautiful appearance. The produce of 6 Picardy;,
I  7 1
Picardy, in wool, is fix hundred thou-fand pounds weight.
Their ploughs are excellent;  in form fimilar to the  Norfolk  and Rotheram combined; with little iron  except the coulter and the mare.   They have no chain nor drail, but only a wooden bar to ferve the purpofe of the latter, with a wooden collar to bring down the beam. The wheels   are   high,  the  beam  is fhort, and the whole is both compact and light. They ufe two horfes in the fand, three in the clay, and manage well without a driver. The harrows are triangular, and have wooden teeth, which is a fufficient index of the lightnefs of their foil.   The fhovei which they ufe, is like the Cornifh. For want of ftreams their corn is ground by wind-mills.    At Calais  you have near twenty in full view, and near Paris you may fee thirty-fix between the city and S. Denis.   In Picardy there are many extenfive meadows, which might be watered, but they do, not appear to have adopted this improvement.
Abbeville and Amiens are manufacturing towns.   In the former is made good B 4 damafk,
damafk, and the latter is famous for its woollen goods and camelots.
The cathedral church at Amiens is highly worthy of attention. The front of this edifice is lingular. The foundation Was laid in 1220, and the whole was rimmed in 1288. The length is four hundred and fifteen Parifian feet, the breadth of the crofs is one hundred and eighty-two, the height four hundred and two.
Montreuil is pleafantly fituated on a hill, and almofl furrounded by an extenfive meadow. It is a difmal town, as are moft of the villages in Picardy, The houfes are low; the mops are fmall, dirty, and ill furnifhed, which is, a certain mark of prevailing poverty.
Soon after my arrival at Paris, I break-fafted with the Abbe Morellet. His library, confifting of eight thoufand volumes, all well chofen, is a model of philofophical arrangement, founded on the three leading faculties of the human mind; the judgment, the memory, and the imagination. His reading defk is of a fingular conflruc-tion, but the moil: commodious of any I have met with.   He fits in a large eafy
chair,
I  9 ]
chair, the arms of which are {freight, to fupport a light defk fattened on a board of about three feet in length. The defk has two flaps, the one upon the other, of which the uppermoft will ferve for writing, or, being lifted up and fufFered to fall back fufficiently to make an angle of 45 0 with the horizon, ferves at once to form a fkreen, when he fits before the fire, and to fupport any book, from which he willies to take an extract. On his right hand he has a light table on caflors, to receive this little defk, when he wiihes to quit the chair; and on his left is a large defk for fuch books or papers as it may be needful to confult.
In the evening he prefented mc with a ticket of admifhon for three months, to a mod agreeable fociety, confifting of four hundred members, which affembles in the Sallon des Arts, at the Palais Royal. They have a large hall for converfation; a commodious chamber for reading, well provided with public prints and modern publications; and a third room for mullc, with a gallery for chefs. Under this fuit of apartments is a coffee - houfe, from
which
which any kind of refrcfhment can be procured.
The day following he carried me to the French academy, to hear M. de Guibert pronounce an oration in praife of his pre-deceffor,   M.  Thomas.   The room was crowded with the firft nobility of France, who attended not merely out of curiolity, but as a compliment to the new academician.   I was happy in being prefent on fuch an occafion, and was much pleafed with the difcourfe, .in which not one fine image efcaped unnoticed by the auditors. It was compofed of that florid kind of eloquence, which is peculiar to the French, and fuited to their language. Defcribing his reluctance to fucceed fo diftinguifhed a member as M. Thomas, he faid, " When " a flation has been occupied by uncom-" mon talents, when the public hath been " long accuftomed to behold the luflre of " fuperior merit; the fucceffor muit ex-" peel: to meet with no indulgence ; the V object of their devotion is no more ; the " revered image hath vanifhed from their " fight \ but the pedeftal remains, and the " height of this will be a ftandard, by
** which
*c which to form an eftiinate of him, who *' (hall prefume to place himfelf upon it." A general plaudit interrupted his difcourfe. When he proceeded to give the character of M. Thomas, he faid,  " His natural " imperfections ferved only to make him f' cultivate the qualities oppofite to them; (i infomuch that I never could difcover " what would have been his failings, but " by the virtues in which he moil ex-*' celled."    Here the applaufe re-echoed from every part of the aiiembly.
When a man has once cnrablifhed his reputation, he is apt to gain more credit than is due to him; and, whatever be his fort, •'whether wit, pleafantry, or eloquence, if, by often moving us, he has prepared us to be moved, he may command us at his will, and, keeping our expectation on the' wing, he may excite our laughter or applaufe on the moft trifling occaiion. This, in fome few inftances, was the cafe with M.de Guibert, who gained moil: applaufe, when in my opinion he deferved it leail. Thus, lamenting the untimely death of his pre-deceflbr, he began, " When a tree, after " having blcrlomed for a hundred fprings,
" and
" and fcattered its fruit upon the earth for " as many autumns, fm it ten with barren-*' nefs by time, falls and appears no more; «* it has fulfilled its deftiny, and in its due " time fubmits to the irrevocable law : but " for a tree in perfect vigour, flowing with *' fap, yearly pufhing forth new roots, and *' promifing by its fruits and verdure to be ** the wealth and glory of the furrounding " plains; let this be ftruck with thunder *f and be fuddenly deftroyed; fawns, fhep-" herds, fwains, all run to it, all lament it, " and the mutilated trunk, now facred, is ** for a length of time covered with liba-!' tions, and watered with their tears." Here their plaudits burff forth with reiterated violence, and for a confiderable time interrupted his difcourfe. The French are certainly more lively in imagination than the Englifh, more fond of painting; but not fo much accuftomed to the coldnefs of mathematical precifion. Provided the imagery be rich and bold, they exprefs their admiration, without flaying to con-fider if it be accurately jufl. In all their affemblies they difcover the quicken: ,fenfi-bility.   Fond of the brilliant, not one fine
fentiment,
• f  '3 I
fentiment, not one ftriking image, not one harmonious period, is ever loft or fails of its effect on them.
The French academy hold their meetings at the Louvre. Three hundred and twenty tickets were delivered out; but I imapinc there muft have been near four hundred in the room.
The days following I employed in vifit-ing the cabinets of natural hiftory in Paris.
The royal cabinet is delightfully fituated at the entrance of the botanical garden. The Count de Buffon being exceedingly infirm, I faw this cabinet with Monfieur Daubenton, who mewed me every pofhble attention. From the animal kingdom, as I imagine, no collection is equal to this. In this part of natural hiftory M. de Buffon certainly excelled. The minerals are very numerous, but much inferior to thofe which are in private cabinets. There are, indeed, large marTes of gold and filver, but I cannot fay that they appear to me well chofen.
The cryftallized diamonds are fine, more valuable to the naturalift than to the jeweller.
The
[   H 1
The aqua marine cryftals are very large. The emeralds from Peru are large and clear : fome are fingle cryftals with hex-aedral prifms; others form a group or drufen.
Of tin, there is one large cryftal from Bohemia i but few good fpecimens befides.
The fpathous iron, with ftlver, from Begori, in Dauphine, is worthy of attention.
The fpathous lead ore, in fine needles, from the Hartz, is truly elegant.
Of copper, the chief and moft valuable fpecimens are the malachites from Siberia ; of which fome fpecimens are highly poliftied.
The antimony, in long needle?, with heavy fpar, from Bohemia is fuperb.
The fulphur, in large ocfaedral cryftals, is faid to be from Catalonia, but, as I apprehend, it is from Conil mine, near Cadiz.
They have here, as in all the other cabinets of Paris, large dodecaedral garnets, uniformly incrufted with green talc, from the duchy of Stiria. Thefe garnets, when the cruft is taken off, appear to have been formed in the talc as in its proper matrix.
Among
Among the foflils, the raoft finking arft, A nautilus, near three feet diameter. Elephant's teeth, from Siberia, with an elephant's thigh-bone, from the vicinity of the Ohio, in Canada.
I remember to have feen, in Mr. Cat-cot's cabinet, in Briflol, part of an elephant and a monkey, both fcund in the flone quarries near Bath.
The ferns, which are found on the coal mines in Wales, with the corals of St. Vincent's Rock, near Briflol, are, like the monkies and the elephants, the natural produce of the Eafl Indies, or of the torrid zone.
Various are the folutions of this phenomenon, given to the world by Catcot, BufTon, De Luc, Whitehurfl, Hutton, and SauPAire; befide many others, prior to thefe, not worthy to be named; but none of thefe are perfectly agreeable to truth, and to the appearances in nature, although every one of them flates fome valuable facts, more efpecially De Luc, who leaves all the others far behind him*
If
If ever a confiftent hiftory of the earth and of its mutations fees the light, we fhall probably be indebted for it to a gentleman, who has been, with peculiar advantages, fludying the fubject. more than thirty years, and from whom, indeed, have been derived moll of the ufeful hints on which our beft modern authors have built their fyftems. His account of ancient caftles has been juftly admired by all men of learning; but, (hould he live to indulge the world with the true hiftory of the earth, and of the changes which it has undergone, this will eclipfe all his other works, and convince the moll incredulous, at leaft as far as he enters on the fubject, that nature and revelation perfectly agree.
After having vifited the king's cabinet, I went round to the other principal cabinets in Paris:
M. dy Orcy, a farmer general, in the Place Vendome, has two apartments, one for reptiles, the other for minerals.
His minerals are numerous, large, and elesant.
Of
[   i7 ]
Of gold he has only two fine fpecimens. Of the other metals the principal are, copper in blue cryftals* with copper blof-fom and green feathered ore.
Tin cryftals from Wheal Trevaunance, in Cornwall, and one large cryftal from Bohemia.
Lead ore, white, green, and white mixed with copper blue, from the Bannat of Temefwar.
Iron haematites in all its forms, a rich variety.
Blend with bright yellow pellucid cryftals, elegant and rare.
Antimony in long coloured needles, permeating rhomboidal cryftals of heavy fpar,
The cabinet of Monfmir de Rome de I'lJIe, Rue des Bons Garcons, prefents a moft in-terefting fyftem of cryftallization. With aftonifhing patience and acutenefs, he traces the cryftals of falts, earths, metallic fub-ftances, and gems, through an almoft infinite variety, in beautiful fuccefiion, each to its elementary and charaderiftic form, and fhews clearly by what laws they have departed from it.   In the pro-
Vol. I. C fecution
[   i8 1
fccution of his fubjed, he has clearly 'ascertained a fact of great importance to the natural hiflorian, which is, that minerals may be infallibly diflinguifhed by the form, the hardnefs, and the Specific gravity of their cryftals.    Thus, by the fenfible qualities of the mineral itfelf, if cryftallized, we may inflantly reduce it to its proper clafs, and judge of its contents, without the aiTiftance of the fire. We began with examining his calcarious Spars, than which none is more varied in its forms.    Thefe, even our dog-tooth Spar of Derbyfhire,  he  traced  back  to the rhomboidal parallelopiped, of precifely the fame angles with the Iceland cryflal, or double refracting Spar; proving them to be only an aggregate of rhombs, regularly contracting from the bafe to the apex.
This inveftigator of nature's moft Secret path has almoft reduced himfelf to blind-neSs by his nocturnal ftudies.
A friend of his related to me a curious anecdote, which does much honour to his heart. In his youth he received a good education, and in his advancing years found all his wants  fupplied, without
ever
ever being able to difcover to whom he was indebted, either for this bounty, or for his birth.   That he might know the one, he laboured to find out the other. His firft attempts were checked with a caution to forbear; and for a time he continued quiet, if not contented to remain in ignorance i but in the end, growing weary, and impatient to difcover a fecret, which was fo diligently concealed from him, he gave way to his curioiity. Receiving no farther hints to reftrain him, he grew more bold in his enquiries, till Suddenly he found the ft ream cut off, before he had traced it to the fountain from which it flowed.    Thus, at once difap-pointed and deferted, he had no refource but in himfelf.   The ftraitnefs of his cir-cumftances brought him acquainted with Mr. Fofter, who employed him in making out, from time to time, his catalogues of minerals for Sale at Paris.   In this employment he acquired a tafte for natural hiftory, and an intimate acquaintance with mineralogy.
After fome years, the marquis de Rome died, and by his will not only acknow-G 2 ledged
ledged hirn for his fori, but left him every thing which was in his power to bequeath.
The widow of the marquis, with her three daughters, caft themfelves on the generality of de Rome de 1' Iile, who told her, *' You have been accuftomed to affluence, " and your daughters have been trained up " to high expectations: I have learned to " live upon a little j I fhall take only a 55 fmall penfion for myfelf ; you and your " daughters may enjoy the reft."
Monfieur Sage, from whom I had the chief of this relation, took an opportunity of reprefenting this act of generoiity to the prefent king, who has made fome decent addition to his income; and he is now in affluence, loved and refpected by his friends, and admired by all men of fcience.
M. de la Bove, Rue des Champs Elizes, who is intendant of Dauphine, has a collection of minerals fomewhat iimilar to that of M. d' Orcy, but chofen with more tafte, and confifting of fmaller fpecimens. He excels in the productions of his own province, more efpecially in Schoerl, violet, green,  and  white,  all  cryftallized and
blended
[ ]
blended together in the fame ftone with afbeflos.
M. Aubert, coachmaker to the king, in the Fauxbourgh S. Denis, has a collection of minerals more beautiful, and in higher prefervation than any of the former j for which, if I miftake not, he has been much indebted to Mr. Fofter of Covent Garden, London, through whofe hands have paffed a great proportion of the fineft fpecimens of minerals in Europe.
M. de Joubert, treafurer of Languedoc, Place Vendome, has a well digefled cabinet of minerals and foffils, arranged by M. Sage. The fpecimens are good, many elegant ; but their peculiar reference is to the Sciences.
The Duke de la Rochefoucault has two Spacious apartments, beSide two little chambers, filled with minerals, arranged, not according to their genera and Species, but according to the countries from which they came. Of thefe, multitudes are duplicates; Some good, Some bad, Some whole, Some miSerably broken, but all covered with duft. The moft diftinjmifhed fpecimens are a large maSs oS Sulphur with C 3 octaedral
o&aedral cryftals from Conil, in Spain; a beautiful Specimen of Malachites, of a con-fiderable fize, and highly polifhed; with antimony in large cryftals. But that which is iingular to this collection is, a clear rock cryftal, with a beautiful fprig of Quartz, white like enamel, mooting in the midft of it.
The duke has few varieties of tin or copper.
His calcedony and agate, from Auvergne, are moft interefting, as being the productions of volcanos, long fmce extinguiihed in that province.
The Abbe Haiiy, of the royal academy, has a collection of cryftals which is worthy of attention. He demonftrates that all crvftals, of whatever fize or form, are com-pofed of primitive, minute, and elementary cryftals, and that moft of them, by proper fractures, may be reduced from the complex to the fimple and elementary form. In the courfe of my Vint, I faw him with a blunt knife bring back a mifhapen mafs of fluor to an octaedral cryftal, nor would it readily afTume any other form. This difcovery he made by accident; for, obferving that the
angle
[ n ]
angle of a fractured hexagonal prifm of cal-carious fpar was the fame as of the rhom-boidal, he was led to try the other parts of the cryftal. By thefe means he found that the whole was in lamellae of perfect rhombs, breaking eahly and only on their proper furfaces, and yielding rhomboidal cryftals. He is now purfuing this difcovery on the other   cryftallized   fubftances, obtaining the primitive or elementary form fome-times  by heating and quenching them in water, at other times by breaking the rude rnafs, or compound cryftal, with a hammer, varying his operations according to the nature of the fubftance.   He is deeply verfed in the mathematics, of which he has availed himfelf in this refearch. The simplicity of his manners is moft engaging.   This difcovery beautifully illuf-trates the  ingenious   obfervations of de Rome de l'lfle on the elementary and compound forms of cryftals, and throws much light on this branch of natural hiftory.
M. Haffenfratz, engineer of the royal mines, and profeflbr in the newly inftituted academy of mining, has a few well chofen minerals, which are chiefly valuable, as be-
C 4 ing
[   H ]
ing of his own collecting in the way of his profeffion. It is difficult to fay whether he moft excels in chemiftry or mineralogy; for he is eminent in both.
He carried me, in our walks, to fee a M. Stoutz, a German, diftinguifhed for his Superior knowledge in minerals and mining, who was employed on the part of the French government to vifit the mines of Hungary, Bohemia, Saxony, and other parts of Germany. I found him perfectly acquainted with the nature of all mountains in which mines are formed. His collection is made upon a peculiar plan: every Specimen of mineral fubftances in his cabinet, is connected with others from the fame mine, forming a little collection by itSelS; and conlifting of the metal in its ore, with all the intermediate ftrata or changes in the rock, from the furface downwards, each with references to the various depths from which they came, and obfervations on the mountains in which the mineral is found. Since I left Paris, I hear that count d'Aranda has fent him into Spain, to which country, with his Superior talents, he will be a valuable acquisition.
M. Bcjbn,
M. Beffon, Rue S. Honore, has the moft elegant and moft fyffematical collection of minerals I ever faw, beautiful as Mr. Fof-ter's, and claffed nearly upon the fame plan with the honorable M. Charles Greville's. In his collection of flints, you have the whole hiftory of flint, from its moft rude appearance to what, for beauty, we fhould call its moft perfect fpecies; with all the varieties, in the moft natural and methodical arrangement.   The fame outline he purfues in all  mineral  and   metallic fubftances, tracing them through all their appearances and forms, from thofe that are elementary to thofe which are moft compounded, and fhewing the mineral, not merely in all its matrices, but in all its combinations. In no cabinet did I ever fee beauty and fci-ence fo happily united.   Part of this wonderful collection is not yet arranged for want of room, but chiefly for want of money to purchafe cabinets.   It is much to be lamented that a man of his abilities, who has difcovered fuch zeal, fuch indefatigable indultry, in traverfmg the mountains, vifiting the chief mines of Europe, and exploring their contents, fhould be dif-
treffed
trerTed and flraitened in his purfuit of Science. Butmore is it to be admired, that a man of his extenfive knowledge mould be hid, and among all the monarchs of Europe, among all the great, among all the patrons of fcience, mould find no pro* tector.
M. Sage is director of the mint, and principal of the royal academy for miners.
When a man of fcience enters the Spacious hall in which the minerals are kept, if he be not altogether deltitute of tafle, he will be at a lofs which to admire moft, the building itfelf, or its contents. The elegant fimplicity of the painted dome, the Surrounding gallery with its pillars and pi-lafters, the whole covered with Italian Stucco, the harmony and jufl proportion which every where prevail, and the dif-pofition of the minerals, excite the molt, pleafmg fenfations of delight. In this beautiful apartment, with much fimplicity and taite, a recefs is formed for the laboratory, where M. Sage exhibits his experiments when he is delivering his lectures to his pupils.   In the centre of the hall, an
area is inclofed for them by a fkreen, which forms his cabinet for the reception of his minerals.   In his collection, his principal attention has been to fcience; and for that reafon he has cholen fpecimens belt Suited to exhibit the metal, the matrix, its various combinations, and the acids by which it is mineralized, whether the fulphurcous, the arfenical, or the phofphoric.   Befides this clafiical collection, he has a provincial one in the gallery, where he has arranged the minerals according to the country from which they come.    His method is both pleafing and improving.   To complete the whole, he has depolited in a cabinet by themfelves the produce of all the various minerals in his collection, the refult of his moft accurate afTays.
This ineftimable treafure is defigned for the ufe of Undents in the newly eftablifhed academy for miners; an academy which, without distinction of nation or religious creed, is open to all the world. In this inftitution, as in all other eftoblifhments for extending the bounds of fcience, and diffufing knowledge freely and without ex-pence among all ranks of people, we muft
admire
[   a8 ]
admire the liberality of Sentiment, the hiVh fpirit, and fenfe of dignity, which has distinguished the fovereigns of France.
M. Sage is the principal and father of this royal academy, and at the fame time the chemical profeffor. Befides himfelf, there are four principal profeiTors, whofe ftipend is two thoufand four hundred livres each (or one hundred pounds feeding) per annum. There are five infpectors, each at three thouiand livres penfion, fifteen hundred for travelling expences, and three hundred by way of gratuity, if their diligence deferves it; fix engineers, at fix hundred livres penfion, four hundred for jour-nies, and two hundred gratuitous; twelve Scholars, at fix hundred livres penfion, and two hundred for gratuity. Of thefe, two are conftantly travelling in Germany, with three thoufand fix hundred livres each for their expences.
There are befides, twenty Supernumeraries, or expectants, without any penfion.
The infpectors and the engineers vifit all the mines of France, and make a report to government, not merely of the produce, but of the  management, together with
fuch
t 29 ]
fuch obfervations as they may think needful to communicate. They are like wife to be fent occasionally into foreign countries, to examine the improvements which are made in fearchino; for and working mines. From this academy the mines ot France will be fupplied with fkilful engineers and managers. All the members have a blue uniform with M. R. on their buttons.
I was much furprifed to fee in moft of the cabinets, and in all the printed catalogues at Paris, a fubftance which perhaps does not exift in nature; it is native tin. What they produce for fuch, appears dull and brittle, and is in fact: nothing but tin returning to a calx. Whilft we fmile at their credulity, we muft lament that men of fcience mould have been fo eafily deceived themfelves, and, without intending to propagate a falfehood, mould have deceived all thofe who have any depend-ance on their knowledge and veracity. For me it was by no means difficult to detect: the miftake; becaufe every fpecimen of this fuppofed native tin came from my own cabinet, and went out from thence under the
deno-
denomination of dephjogifticated tin. Of this, large fragments, and even blocks, have been found in the moors near St. Au-file, but never at any confiderable depth, nor far diftant from fome old furnace or habitation, of which the tradition is, that they were, in fome remote period, occupied by Jews. In the fame places copper implements have been likewife found returning to a calx, fome friable and red, others Saturated with the bafis of vital air, and therefore covered with malachites. This tranfmutation throws light on the red copper ore, with its octaedral cryftals found among the branchings of native copper in deep mines. The circumftances are different, but the operation of nature is the fame in both.
Having viewed all the cabinets of natural hiftory in Paris, I determined next to Survey its environs.
The moft Striking feature in this vicinity is Montmartre, a mountain of Gyp-Sum, at the head of the Street Montmartre. The Strata are horizontal. Sixteen of theSe have been laid open to the depth of more than one hundred and Sorty Seet,
and
t 31 ]
and are feen in the following order. The foil is fandy, covering chalk rubble, in which is flint-.   Under thefe, clay; foffil fhells; cryftals of felenite; gypfum rock; calca-rious earth; clay; gypfum rock; clay; gypfum rock; clay; gypfum. rock; marly clay; lenticular cryftals of felenite moftly in pairs, united face to face, of which the fpears are only fragments; fuller's earth, perfectly free from impurities, in a ftratum of about eighteen inches;  gypfum rock, feparated into laminae hy ftrata of fclenitical cryftals, and charged with foflil bones. The quarries and excavations are immenfe, to fapply the numerous kilns conftantly at work. The gypfum rock confifts of felenite and chalk, which, being burnt, the former lofing its water of cryftallization, and the latter its fixed air or cretaceous acid, becomes plaifter of Paris: when this is made into mortar, the felenite feizes the water, and cryftalliz-ing becomes inftantly hard.
At Belmont, which is diftant about half a mile fiom hence, the fame ftrata have been difcovered.
Before I left London, I had purchafed .lenticular cryftals of quartz; and as this
form
form is peculiar to the calcarious genus, I was defirous of feeing the fpot from whence they came. With this view I vifited the lime-ftone quarries in the vicinity of Paify, where I gained the moft perfect Satisfaction, and Saw clearly that the quartz had occupied the ipaces left empty by decom-pofed felenite, which, as I have before obfcrved, is calcarious earth faturated with the vitriolic acid. The lime-ftone rock is here charged with turbinae and bivalve /hells. The ftrata are horizontal. From thefe quarries they get building ftone for Paris. Many of thefe extend more than one hundred yards under ground, with a roof fupported by large pillars. Nearer to the city they fink pits about eighty feet, then drive and raife the ftones by engines.
There is not the leaft appearance of primitive mountains in the vicinity of Paris. All has been tranfported, and all is horizontal.
Near Fontainbleau, they find a grit-ftone, or compofition of fand, with a calcarious cement. In the cryftal the calx prevails, and takes the rhomboidal form,
althou eh
t   33 ]
although the filicious matter appears both to the eye and to the touch to be predominant in quantity.
From the abundance of felenite in the immediate neighbourhood of Paris, the water of their wells is unfit for ufe.
Having heard much of Pont de Neuilly, I wifhed to fee it. Taking advantage, therefore, of the open weather, with a bright fun, in the month of February, I took my morning walk that way, through the garden of the Thuilleries, and the Ely-fian Fields. From thence, there is a wide avenue of trees, with a good pavement in the middle all the way for near four miles.
This part of the country is flat, fkirted by diftant hills. The foil is a hungry fand, all arable; but too poor and too light for wheat, and all open common-field, divided, as in England, and all over Europe, excepting Ireland, in fmall Scattered lots.
This kind of tenure, with this minute divifion, mark the flow progrefs of the plough at more ancient periods; when, from time to time, as increasing population Vol, L D urged
C   34 J
urged them, they fevered a new portion from the common pafture, and divided it, as far as related to the tillage, among the numerous tenants of each manor. In England, the rapid progrefs of agriculture, in modern times, is ftrongly indicated by the ftraightnefs of the hedges, becaufe all ancient bounds are crooked.
Between Paris and the Pont de Neuilly, their crops are barley, oats, and rye, for which they plough with two horfes, guided with check reins, without a boy.
Within two miles of Paris, on the left hand, is the wood of Boulogne, from which the country is fo plentifully flocked with game, that between that wood and Paris, in the compafs of two hundred acres, I faw more than fifty brace of hares, and at lcaft one hundred brace of patridges: a wonderful phenomenon fo near to the metropolis, arifing, not merely from the conftitution of their government, but from the ftrict execution of their laws. In this we are to look for the Security of perfon and of property in France; where at the fame time few are punilhed, becaufe few venture to tranfgrefs.
The
[   35   ] • The Bridge of Neuilly is perfectly horizontal, and remarkable for its elegant fimplicity.
On my return, I vifited the Hotel Dieu, where   the  lick   are   in  number  two . thoufand five hundred and feventy-four, befides   five   hundred   and feventy-one officers or attendants.   In all, they make three  thoufand  one  hundred forty-five perfons to be lodged and fed.   I obferved four in a bed, but they have had fix or feven,  and among thefe  the dying with the dead.   The fick, although fo mifer-ably provided for, coft the public thirty fols, that is, fifteen pence each per day. They have one ward in the winter, containing about four hundred perfons, fet apart for thofe who pretend difeafe. The practice of flowing fo many miferable creatures in one bed is to be abolifhed, and furely upon the befl of principles, for no man who reafons for a moment can hefi-tate to fay which is preferable, to make a few happy, or to render many completely wretched.   But the misfortune is, that benevolence is often blind.
D 2 This
t 36 ]
This change in the fyflcm of the Hotel Dieu has been promoted, if not fuggefted, by M. le Necker, who, in the hofpital of S. Snlpice, has fet an example worthy to be followed, as reflecting the highest honour both on the understanding and humanity of that moft accomplished woman. She has provided each patient with a Separate bed, with the beft attendance, and with every thing which can adminifter to his comfort. Yet all this, by a due attention to ceconomy, fhe does for Seventeen fols and fix deniers each per day, being-little more than half what they coft at the Hotel Dieu.
The next day in the morning I vifited the hofpital called La Salpetricre, in which are maintained more than feven thoufand foundling girls, with a few aged paupers, and about nine hundred proffi-tutes. This number is coniiderable, but thefe are only fuch as were guilty of other mifdemeanors. On the lift of the police are more than twenty eight thoufand of thofe abandoned and miferable women, who, in the dufk of the evening fvvarm
in
in every flrcet. In this hofpital they have eight hundred children employed in needlework and fpinning, of which number many excel in moft beautiful embroidery. When one of the old women dies, her huf-band leaves the hofpital. The government is by a matron, fourteen priefts, thirty-two ftfters of a fuperior order, with fifty more, "who are Subordinate to thefe.
February the 20th, I afiifted at a Solemn Service, celebrated in the church of S. Eu-ilache, for the repofe of the foul of the Duke of Orleans. The whole was conducted with the greatest magnificence and tafte. The ftreet leading to the church was lined with Soldiers, horSe and foot, Stationed at convenient distances, befides Some who were patroling. The front of jhe church was covered, and all the choir was lined with black. At the bottom of the choir was a coffin raifed upon a catafalque, or bier, which was about thirty feet high, twenty-four feet long, and eighteen wide, all covered either with mantles and efcutcheons, or with historical pictures, and forming a well-proportioned pyramid. Qn the pcdeftal, at the four corners, were
D 3 four
four urns, Supported by columns, and filled with Spirits, from which proceeded a blue and lambent flame, the kind oS light heft Suited to the melancholy Scene.  This lofty catafalque had over it a canopy, which hung from the roof, about forty feet above the coffin. Over the altar was a Silver crucifix, large as life, covered likewife with a rich canopy, adorned with plumes, and lighted by twenty-four large wax tapers in golden candleflicks.   Guards were Stationed round the SuppoSed body to keep off the multitude; I Say the SuppoSed body, for his body had been prcvioufly interred with the Same pomp and ceremony at Vale de Grace, and his heart had been deposited in the country. The chief mourners upon this occafion were the Duke of Orleans, his fon, and the Duke of Bourbon, attended by all their neareft relations and their friends. The funeral oration was pronounced by the Abbe Fauchet, who, like all the good French writers, with their peculiar kind of eloquence, rofe fometimes to the true Sub-* lime.
To the Duke of Orleans belongs the Palais royal, which is now the favourite evening
ing walk, being equally fheltered from the fun in fummer, and from the rain in winter. The dimenfions of this quadrangle are nine hundred feet by three hundred and fixty; and the walk is twelve feet wide, Surrounded by coffee-houfes, traiteurs, and mops of every kind. The fquare is planted, well gravelled, and well lighted in the evenings.
Ths pictures of this palace and of Versailles, with thofe which abound in many of the convents, have been fo well described, that I mail obServe the ftricteft. Silence on that Subject, always remembering, that I am hailening into Spain, and taking France only by the way. Such things, however, as others have not noticed, and are yet worthy of attention, I would (lightly touch upon, that I may not leave too great a chafm between Calais and Belgarde.
In the evening of February 28, being the laft day of the carnival, when Catholics bid adieu to feftivity and mirth for forty days, all Paris was in motion, and fome thoufiinds were in mafks, men in the drefs of women, and women in the drefs
D4 of
of men; all afluming characters, and many fuftaining thofe characters with fpirit. popes, cardinals, monks, devils, courtiers, harlequins, and lawyers, all mingled in one promifcuous crowd. In the ftreet "of S. Honore alone were anembled more than one hundred thoufand fouls. This ftreet is two miles in length. With fuch a multitude, although more than four hundred coaches were conftantly parading on one fide the ftreet, and as many on the other, in oppofite directions, fuch were the precautions, that no accident either happened or could happen. To pre-ferve the moft perfect order, foot foldiers were ftationed at the mouth of every ftreet where carriages could pafs; and in the middle of the ftreets, horfe-guards and infantry were conftantly patroling to keep coaches in their proper line. For this purpofe they employed one hundred horfe, and twelve hundred of the foot guards.
I faw one elegant coach quietly taken into cuftody for fome indifcretion of the coachman.
At the time of the king's marriage, they had neglected thefe precautions, and feveral
hundreds
/
hundreds loft their lives, either trampled under foot, or crufhed to death.
Before I left Paris, I obtained a ticket of admiflion to the Licee, near the Palais royal, where a numerous fociety of gentlemen and ladies of the firft fafhion meet to hear lectures on the fciences, delivered by men of the higheft rank in their profeftion. The fciences they cultivate are the mathematics, chemiftry, natural hiftory, experimental philofophy, anatomy, civil hiftory, polite literature, and all the languages of Europe.   Their apparatus is magnificent, and all their mathematical inftru-jnents, the beft which can be procured. They have a very elegant Suit of aparu ments, one for reading and writing, another for conversation, and a third for the lectures.  The fubfeription is only four Louis per annum.   I was much ftruck with the fluency and elegance of  k»gttafife with which the anatomical profefior fpoke, and not a little fo with the deep attention of his auditors.   The French, with all their volatility, can be grave when it is proper to be fo.
After this pieafing entertainment, I called
ed to take leave of M. Haffenfratz, whom I found verifying an experiment which .has been made in France, and which may. be of the higheif import to the bleachers of linen. This procefs they accomplish in twelve hours; and at the expence of one penny Englifh they can bleach fix ells of linen. For this purpofe they begin with dephlogiflicating a quantity of marine acid, by means of manganefe, after which, having previouily diluted it with water, they faturate the acid with an alkali, and thereby leave the dephlogiflicated air at liberty to act on all colouring ingredients which are found rn the materials to be bleached. In the fame manner the green wax from America may be rendered white and fit for ufe. The fame folution will likewife ferve for a tefl, by which to try the durability of colours in cloth, becaufe when they fade, it is only by the action of dephlogiflicated air difTufed in the atmo-fphere. This operation explains the effect - of manganefe in making glafs pellucid.
Previous to my leaving Paris, I enquired the price of provisions in the marked, which I found to be as follows:
Chicken*
Chickens and ducks, fifty-five fols each. A fmall turkey, five livres. Butcher's meat, ten fols per pound all the year.
Pork and veal, at this time fixteen fols per pound.
Butter, thirty-fix fols.
Wine in the city, twelve fols, and out of the city, eight fols per bottle.
It is the policy of the French government to make all thefe articles dear in Paris.
JOURNEY
JOURNEY
FROM
PARIS  to BELGARDE,
'SIT AVlNG accomplished the purpofg JL JL for which I came to Paris, in obtaining letters of recommendation to Madrid, and the weather proving more favourable for travelling than it had been in the beginning of the month, on the fourteenth of March I fet out with an agreeable party in the diligence for Lyons. To thofe who can rife at two in the morning, and have an appetite for dinner before nine, this mode of travelling is not unpleafant.
The firfr, day we dined at Melun, and lay at Villeneuve la Guiarre. The next day, pafiing through Sens, where the Dauphin's
monument
monument is much admired, we dined at Villeneuve le Roi, and lay at Auxerre, to which city there goes a large paffage-boat from Paris, which, afcending the rivers Seine and Yonne, performs its voyage in three days, including the intermediate nights, during which it is unremittingly, yet flowly, moving on. This boat is much ufed in fummer, and, during the day, is very pleafant, palling through the richeft and moft beautifully varied country. The paffengers carry their own beds, and fpread them in a fpacious cabin.
All the way from Paris to Auxerre the prevailing foil is fand, being a continuation of that vaft tract of fandy country which ftretches from Dieppe by Rouen and Orleans to Bourges, yet under the fand on the hills, chalk appears. The fields are open, and the country abounds with corn and wine.
Auxerre is a rich city, conveniently fituated for trade. The cathedral is a fine old ftructure, and worthy of attention. It is much to be lamented, that the chapter has never yet eftabliflied an accumulating fund, to perfect what has been left unfi-x nhhed
nifhed of this noble edifice, and to complete the tower, which daily reproaches them for their want of zeal.
Having pafTed Auxerre, we lofe fight of the chalk, and in its place we find either a calcareous freeftone, or a limeftone rock, in horizontal ftrata; but both the lime-* ftone and the chalk abound with marine productions.   The face of the country, as far as relates to foil, rock, culture, and produce, bears a ftrong refemblance to that between Bath and Atford, with this peculiarity, that all the hills are here upon one  level, being evidently poftdiiuvun, formed by torrents, and intercepted by deep ravins.   Nature here hath not perfected her work.   Neither hills nor vallies have yet affumed their proper form and character;  all   is  confufion,   ruin, devaluation.   But when the heavy rains and torrents fhall have funk the ravins, widened the vallies, and, wearing away the angles from the craggy mountains, mall have reduced them to gentle declivities, or to eafy fwells, the rains will ccafe to be deftructive, the raging torrents will become gentle ftreams, and the Surface of thefe hills, * clothed
I  47 ]
clothed with verdure, will be protected from future devastation.
When we came   to   Vermanton, we began to find blocks of granite, brought down by the torrents from the mountains ; and, arriving at Rouvray, we faw the granite rock itfelf.   From this circumstance, without having recourfe to the barometer, we have reafon to conclude that we have afcended to the highefh level in this part of France; and, upon examination, we Shall find in this vicinity the fources of many rivers, which running to the eaSt, to the north, to the weft, and to the fouth, empty themfelves into the Seine, the Loire, and the Saone.
Not that we are to conclude from hence, that granite is the upper Stratum of the earth, covering the limeftone and the chalk, becaufe the reverfe of this we find to be the fact; but where chains of rugged granite mountains are feen, experience teaches us to look for nothing higher. Thus we ftiall find it on the moft lofty fummits of the Alps.
About Rouvray the foil is decompofed granite, of which the quartz and fikcious
fand
t 48 1
fand remain upon the hills, whilft the clay1 and mica are wafhed into the vallies.
All here is arable inciofed. They ufe five horfes in their ploughs.
The cathedral of Autun fhews great antiquity. In afcending the marble fteps which lead to it, I was ffruck with the number of gryphites in this blue marble without the leafl veftige of any other fhell.
As we had been defcending a considerable time by the fide of the Arroux, a little river which flows into the Loire, and were come to a much lower level, I was not furprifed to meet with marble*
When we came within five leagues of Challon, and began to fall down towards the Saone, lofing fight of the granite, we found only limeftone, charged with gryphites, and covered with fand, which appeared to have been wafhed from a fuperior level.
Challon carries on much trade in corn and wine. The waters being out, we could not go down the Saone, as was intended. 1 was not forry for this, becaufe, although the country bordering on the river as you approach Lyons is moft enchanting, I had
feen
[   49 ]
feen it, and retained a lively impreffion of its beauty.
Between Challon and Macon is rich, and moftly flat, but before we came to Lyons, we met with hills and granite, and indeed where the Saone enters the city it has made a paffage for itfelf through the granite rock, which it has fretted away to the depth of about one hundred feet, leaving it on one fide perpendicular like a wall.
All through Burgundy they ufe oxen on the road, yoked by the horns, which is certainly the beft way of working them. The reafon will be obvious, if we confider that by this mode of proceeding there is no ftrain upon any of the fmaller mufcles of the neck. Though the preffure be great, the vertebrae are only in the fame proportion locked clofe into each other, precifely in the fame manner as are the bones of the leg and thigh of him who ufes Sampfon's girdle.   This girdle, as it is known, a man puts round his loins, whilft he fits on a bench with his heels again ft any immoveable object j thus Situated, and keeping his legs directly in the line of draft, he may fuffer ten, or even twenty men, to pull at Vol. I. E the
i so ]
the girdle without moving hknj but a llrong man, who was trying this experiment, exulting in his Itrength, took hold of the rope which was faflened to the girdle, and thereby elevating the line of draft, and having nothing to depend upon but his mufcular exertion, he was railed in a moment, and thrown upon his face. Setting afide, however, all reafoning upon this fubject, the fact fpeaks for itfelf, and all who have obferved the loads which two oxen on the continent will draw, mult give the preference to their manner of yoking them..
The defcription of Lyons, as to its public edifices, I fhali leave to others, and fhall confidcr it only with regard to manufacture. Enjoying a delightful climate, and fituated at the conflux of the Saone, and of the Rhone,, it mult very foon have ■rifen to importance. Its inhabitants have in all periods been diftinguilhed for induf-try, for arts, and for love of freedom. Under the Romans, as a municipium, it poffefled valuable immunities; and when it became a colony, as fuch it was che-rifhed and protected.    Under the fove-
reigns
[  5* 1
reigns of France it has enjoyed peculiar privileges, being governed by its own magistrates, and guarded by its own militia* Four annual fairs, each of fifteen days, inftituted in the reign of Lewis XI. have much contributed to the advancement of its traffic.
Its good government naturally attracted citizens, whilft the troubles excited at various periods in the neighbouring ftates, more efpecially about the year 1290, between the contending factions of the Gwelps and Gibelincs, occafioned many from Italy and Florence to feek refuge in a city where they could live in fecurity and peace.
The principal dependance, and the fource of wealth to Lyons, is her manufacture of filk in all its branches.
The iirft who introduced this into France was Charles IX. but the chief encouragement it received was in the watchful attention of Henry IV. who in the year 1602 made a contract with fome merchants to deliver four hundred thoufand mulberry-trees, five hundred pounds of feed, and the eggs of iVik-worms to the R 2 amount
[   5* 1
amount of one hundred and twenty and five pounds, with fix thoufand copies of a work containing all proper directions for managing the plants, the worms, and the filk produced by them. Thefe were to be distributed in the generalities of Paris, Tours, Orleans, and Lyons, at the rate of a hundred trees, and half an ounce of eggs to every parifh. The ecclefiaftics, as well regular as fecular, afiifted in this work, both by their precepts and example. But owin£ to the civil wars, by which France was diffracted during two fucceeding minorities, little was done effectually to animate this profitable commerce, till Lewis XIV. affumed the reins of government: from that period its advancement has been rapid.
In the year 1667 there were two thoufand looms at work, but in 1768, more than eleven thoufand; and fuch is the progrefs of the manufacturers, that the grower of filk is not able to keep pace with them; for at the prefent time they are obliged to purchafe from foreigners more than twenty millions of pounds weight to fupply the market.
The
[   S3 1
The (ilk-weavers here have almoft acquired a monopoly of tafte, and by this circumftance have given an example to the world of what competition can do, when properly directed.
Tafte is not any where cultivated with fuch attention as at Lyons. The manufacturers have at times employed more than a hundred pattern-drawers, whofe invention is unremittingly upon the ftretch, except when they obtain leave of abfence, which is fome times granted even for twelve months, that they may reft their imagination, and acquire new ideas.
The firft perfon noticed as having excelled in this profcflion was Revel, the friend and companion of Lebrun, an artift whofe talents were fo far Superior to thofe of his fuccefTors, that they regard him as their Raphael.  After him came de la Salle, equally famous for his birds, his land-fcapes, his flowers, and his fruit. Jean Robin,   anxious   that   the embroiderers might copy nature, and  introduce into their works from her rich variety, planted a garden in the vicinity of Paris for the cultivation of exotic plants, and thus,
E 3 without
without having fuch an intention, laid the foundation of the phyfic garden. It was here that the celebrated Pierre Vallet, of Orleans, embroiderer to Henry IV. and Lewis XIII. acquired his fame.
Although Lyons has enjoyed fingular advantages, flie has like wife had to Struggle with difficulties. Thefe are admirably displayed by the Abbe Bertholon, in a work of his upon this fubject, lately given to the public; and as every government in Europe is interefted in his obfervations, I Shall briefly flare them. The various obstacles to the profperity of trade have been and muff be as long as they exift;
1. War, whether foreign or domeftic, civil or religious; from factions in the ftate, or from the defire of freedom. Becaufe commerce is frighted at the appearance of the laurel, and flourishes only whilft Shaded by the peaceful olive.
2. Tcrjecution, and want of toleration; as in the revocation of the edict of Nantz, operating in the fame manner as the expulsion of the Moors from Spain.
3. Laws indifcreetly interfering, prying,
med-
[   55 1
meddling, reftraining, vexing the manufacturer or the merchant in his operations.
4. T*axes, fuch as either directly or indirectly check the confumption.   It was not till 1743 that the manufactures of Lyons were exported duty free, and even now all pro-vlfions entering the city pay a heavy tax, particularly wine.   The confequencc is, the rife of labour in the ftrft inftance, and, as the weavers on feftivals refort with avidity to the neighbouring villages to indulge themfelves with wine, they acquire habits of intoxication.
5. Fe/livais multiplied railing the value of the remaining days, and leading to every fpccies of excefs.
6. Prejudices reflecting ufury, tending to keep money out of circulation, and thereby to raife the intereft on it, to the difadvantage of thofe who wifh to borrow. In confe-quence of this, money is at 6 per cent in Lyons.
7. Luxury among the manufacturers, confuming their capitals, and cramping their operations.
8. Titles of Nobility and rank granted to merchants, under the abfurd idea of promoting trade, but in truth diverting the
E 4 Streams
[  5^ ]
Streams by which commerce Should be watered. This mistaken policy is not uncommon in the pre fent day. How much wifer was the conduct of Louis XI! he was a friend to commerce, and cherished it by the moSl marked attentions, "by wife regulations, and by admitting to his table thofe who fignalized themfelves in its advancement.
A merchant named Maitre Jean, flattered with this distinction, folicited a patent of nobility; the king granted his request, but from that time never invited him to dinner. Mortified with being thus neglected, when he thought himfelf more worthy of attention, he ventured to expof-tulate, but was filenced by this reply: " Allez M. le Gentilhomme. Quand je " vous faifois aiTeoir a ma table, je vous " regardois comme le premier de vo-ff tre condition; aujourdhui que vous en " etes le dernier, je ferois injure aux au-" tres, fi je vous faifois la meme fa-" veur."
The learned Abbe, to whofe work I am indebted for much information, recommends the white female mulberry as be St for Silk worms, and iuggefts an idea, thaj:
if
if fuffered to live on the trees in the open air, yet protected from the rain, they would become more hardy, more free from dif-eafes, and fpin more perfect filk. He mentions a M. Pernon, who produces filk as white and beautiful as that of Nankin; and recommends for bleaching the Bengal filk, to foak it repeatedly in a mixture of fpirit of wine and marine acid, in the proportion of thirty-two to one.
According to his account, no people either work longer or fare harder than the weavers of Lyons; rifing before the fun, and continuing in their looms till a late hour in the night, to procure a fcanty pittance for themfclves and for their children. He tells us, that no inftance has been found of three fucceflive generations who have been weavers: the firft is feeble, the fecond is difeafed, and the third never comes to maturity, unlefs tranfplanted to a foil, and engaged in fome occupation more conducive to health.
Emigrations have been the confequence of thefe hardfhips; becaufe neither laws nor chains will keep the artificer from
wan-
[   5» 1
wandering, when he is a prey to hunger and defpair. (V. Commerce de Lyon, par M. l'Abbe Bertholon, &c. &c.)
In Lyons, the principal merchants and manufacturers are faid to be proteffants. This obfervation, if well founded, is worthy of attention, and the influence of religious opinions in retraining or promoting induftry and emulation, as a political question, is highly worthy of difcuffion; but I ihall wave this for the prefent.
Having formerly feen every thing remarkable in Lyons, and being impatient to be gone, I watched with anxious expectation the rifing and falling of the river. The day after I came to Lyons, towards noon, we began to conceive hopes that the diligence might venture to depart.
The waters ran off with great rapidity, the river funk apace, and foon found its proper bed; the paflengers haftened to the quay, the boat took in its loading, and in lefs than two hours after mid-day we began to float down the ftream.
This veflel is very commodious for paflengers, having a good deck to walk on 5 when
when the weather is agreeable, and a warm cabin to which the genteeler pafTengers refort when the atmofphere is cold or rainy.
Paffing between the high mountains of Dauphine, in a winding courfe, and gliding along at the rate of fix miles an hour, in about five hours we arrived at Condrieux, a little village not far diftant from Vienne, famous for its wine. M. David, the au-bergifte, did juftice by us, and credit to himfelf, by the fpecimens which he produced. He fells this wine at fix louis a piece; each piece containing two hundred and fifty bottles, or one hogfhead nearly. It is a fweet wine, exceedingly delicate in its flavour.
The next morning, March 21, we paf-fed under Hermitage, where M. Larnage, the lord of Teint, annually makes about feven hundred hogfheads of the choiceft wine, which M. Bourgoife, a merchant of Teint, in Dauphine, vends on his account. The Situation and the foil are certainly favourable for making wine, but its peculiar excellence depends on the choice and management
nagement of the vines, to which M. Larnage pays the moil minute attention.
As we approach Valence, near which the Ifere falls into the Rhone, this river makes an angle to the right, as if diverted from its courfe, and, being loft behind the hills, fhews Valence to great advantage, feared on a riling ground, in a plain of about fix miles in width.
The mountains are here calcareous. That which is weft of the river, and op-pofite to Valence, rifes perpendicularly, as if it had been cut afunder, and does not retain the fmalleft veftige of the half which it has loft. The ftrata are horizontal; the foil in the plain is fand, but in many places it is full of pebbles to a conhderable depth.
All the way as we pafs between the mountains, fome near to the river, others more remote, we remark, either on their iummits or their fides, the ruins of ancient catties, each protecting its little village, and many of them carrying marks of the moft remote antiquity.
This night we took up our quarters at Ancone, and the next morning patfed by
Viviers,
t  61 ]
Viviers, the capital of the Vivarez. This little city is moft romantic, and, from a proper point of view, would make a pleaf-ing landfcape.
At noon we paffed the Pont S. Efprit, where, leaving the marquis de Gras and fome other officers, in whom I had found agreeable companions all the way from Paris, I began to travel alone.
From Lyons to Avignon, which is one hundred and fifty-two miles, you pay no more than twelve livres, or ten {hillings fterling, for your conveyance.
The price of provifions at S. Efprit is fixed by the magiftrate. Beef, five fols; mutton, fix, excepting in June and September, then feven fols per pound; labour is twenty fols a day in winter, but in the vintage, diet and ten fols, or about five pence fterling.
From Pont S. Efprit to Montpellier, which is feventy miles, I took a return coach, and, without the leaft difficulty, agreed with the driver for nine livres.
From the Rhone we afcended for many leagues, and obferved the limeftone rock charged, yet fparingiy, with fmall round
gravel
gravel of white quartz. The country we pafTed through is rich, and the corn-fields are covered with mulberry-trees, vines, figs, apricots, and peaches.
As we rife towards the heights of Va-ligniere, we pafs by Bagnols, a very ancient but wretched town, inclofed with high walls, and defended formerly by towers.
Near the fummit of thefe mountains, we obferve the craggy rocks of limeftone wafted and laid bare by froff, by winds, by rain, to whofe rage and violence thefe elevated regions are conftantly expofed. Between thefe rocks the road meanders, prefenting at every ftep the moft enchanting views of rugged cliffs, intcrfperfed with the ilex, the juniper, the box, the Cyprus, befides thyme, lavender, and a plealing variety of flowers. Amidft this rich pronation, I was ftruck however with the diminutive appearance of the Cyprus and the juniper.
We lay at Valignicre, a miferable village anciently defended by a caftle, the ruins of which remain to remind its inhabitants of their fuperior happinefs, in no
longer
[ <53 3
longer needing  the  protection of thole walls.
In this country they have no other implements for cultivating their vineyards but fuch as are ufed in Cornwal, the biddex and the fhovel, both perhaps of Celtic origin.   They have a light fwing plough, without coulter, fin  to  the fliare, and mould board; inftead of which, they have two little wooden fins fattened into the heel of the fhare, one on each fide, to turn the earth to the right and left, and thus form a rafter.   The beam is long, and is fattened immediately to the yoke.   They plough with two oxen, yoked together by the horns, and guided by the ploughman. The foil is very light.
From Valigniere we conftantly defcend-ed to the famous Pont du Garde, a Roman aqueduct which joins two high mountains. It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, and eight hundred long upon the top, but not more than five hundred at the bottom, near the water's, edge. The lowcft tier has fix arches, the middle has eleven, but the upper one has thirty-five; the whole being of the Tufcan order, and constructed
with
with large flones, has the air of greatnefl' and of fimplicity moft happily combined. It was built for the purpofe of conveying water into Nifmes. To this edifice, about forty years ago, they added a bridge, much wanted over the Gardon, which is here about feventy feet wide.
At Remoulin, not far from the Pont du Garde, the limeflone rock appears to be entirely compofed of broken fliells, united by a calcareous cement, and charged with fmall round gravel of white quartz, pre-cifely the fame as I had noticed in amending from Pont S. Efprit.
March 23, at noon, I arrived at Nifmes, and began immediately to feaft my eyes with a view of its venerable relics. An accurate account of thefe may be found in a variety of books, as having been defcribed by travellers of every nation.,. At the pre-fent moment, my mind contemplates an object more venerable than thefe monuments of Roman greatnefs, and my attention is wholly occupied with the pleating image, the image of a fhepherd, who lived only for his flock: this was M. de Becde-lievfe, late biihop of Nifmes, a prelate
equally
t  6S ]
equally diftinguifhed for wifdomY benevolence, and piety.   Not contented with relieving from his purfe the diftresfes of the indigent, he increafed the produce of labour in his diocefe, by transferring to the Sundays many of the numerous holidays which encourage only idleness and vice. In the distribution of alms, his benevolence was guided by difcretion.   He was a ftranger to that destructive fpecies of liberality which originates in blind fenfibi-lity, and has no other foundation but un-diftinguiming companion.   He consulted at once his head and heart, neither turning away his eyes from beholding mifery, nor relieving it merely and at all hazards, that he might avoid the painful light; but, gave  fuch  affiflance  in  the   feafon of diftrefs, as both reafon and religion muffc approve, leaving the poor to feel precifely that degree of want, which, as long as they retain their freedom, will be always needful to stimulate their industry.   Thus, he resembled the prudent gardener, who waters the drooping plant, and continues to water it but only whilst the heavens withhold their rain.   Zealous for the peculiar Vol. L F doctrines
doctrines of his religion, he made no distinctions in his benevolence, not only tolerating, but doing good to thofe who could neither receive the creed, nor conform to the mode of worfhip eftablifhed by their country. This fingle prelate, by his wif-dom and beneficence, in the fpace of five and forty years much more than doubled the number of inhabitants of Nifmes; for, having found only twenty thoufand, he had the happinefs before his death of feeing fifty thoufand rife up to call him blefTed.
March 24, in the evening, we got to Montpellier; and the next day, after I had delivered my letters to the Count de Peri-gord, governor of the province, I began to explore the country.
The firft object which attracted my attention was the afparagus growing wild. Thefe are brought to table, but they are not fo fweet and agreeable as thofe which have received cultivation, nor are they fo large.
Wandering about beyond the Perou, I (tumbled upon a beaked oyfter, (ofirea ro-firataj and looking round, I foon difcover-8 ed
ed the fpot where the precious relick had been deposited, when this elevated fpot was under the furface of the fea. There is a regular stratum of thefe oyfters of about eighteen inches thickness, without the admixture of any other fpecies, or of any other fubftance, extending east and weft, as may be feen in every quarry which has been opened in thofe directions, and hiding itfelf under the Perou. Some of thefe Shells are found in the fuperincum-bent rock, and a few ftragglers in the fand above it.
In the Fauxbourg Boutone, the limeftone contains the echinus, or fea urchin, and the fcallop with deep ribs.
Early in the month of April, the weather being moft inviting for excursions, I determined to extend my walks to fome more diftant objects. Of thefe, the only one which deferved to be noticed is a volcanic mountain, called Montferrier, de-fcribed by M. Jubert. In afcending towards this, I met with a phenomenon which frequently occurs, but which has never been accounted for. At a few yards hefore me I faw a whirlwind taking up F 2 a cloud
a cloud of fand, railing it obliquely in the air, and then carrying it before the wind as far as my eye could trace it.   It has been faid, that the meeting of two winds, nearly in oppofite directions, forms the whirlwind; and that the confequence of this mult be a vacuum in the middle, into which the air rufhing with impetuofity, carries even bodies which are fpecifically heavier than itfelf.   But to this Solution there appears to be more than one objection ; for, in the firft place, as the fand rofe with a rotatory motion, it mould have gone, like all other heavy bodies, not to the centre, but to the circumference. But, in the next place, taking this fuppcfed vacuum for granted, bodies fpecifically heavier than air fhould defcend and not rife in it; unlefs, like the torricellian tube, it were open below, and hermetically fealed above.   To account for this effect by referring to the rife of water-fpouts at fea, is only to explain one difficulty by another. When we Shall know by what power in nature a cloud, containing many thoufand tons of water, is fufpended in the air, we (hall be, perhaps, prepared to reaSon with
a better
a better profpect of fuccefs upon the nature and the caufe of whirlwinds.
In the way to Montferrier the rock is all calcareous; at a lower level it is pudding ftone, hard and compact, with both the charge and the cement calcareous. At a higher level, it is a calcareous concretion, or petrifaction by incruftation, light and porous, like a fponge, yet not fo foft, in-clofing leaves, flicks, and mails; a fub-ftance which the French call tuf. This goes to a considerable depth, and lies upon the limeftone.  As we approach the mountain, the pudding ftone and tuf give place to the living rock.
Montferrier is fo completely covered with houfes, that it would be vain to feek a crater; but, confidering its conical form, and the volcanic fubftances of which it is compofed, I can readily conceive it to have been once a burning mountain.
In the vicinity of Montpellier, calcareous rocks, charged with marine productions, universally prevail, and are usually covered with either fand or clay. The clay being fometimes interfperfed with calcareous matter and pyrites, the latter decomposes; in F 3 confequence
[  7° J
confequence of which, its acid uniting with the calcareous matter, forms a felenite, whilft its iron gives a colour to the marie. If no calcareous, matter is at hand, the acid fet at liberty forms alum with the clay.
In the Cevennes, not far diftant from Montpellier, mines and minerals abound, fome rich in copper, others in lead and iron, but few which carry tin, One of thefe, a lode of about three feet thick, is fo poor as not to pay expences; it produces iron, tin, and lead. In this mine, M. Chaptal, profefior of chemiftry, and infpector of the mines, tried an experiment which may be highly interefting to the naturalift, if not to the adventurer in mines, by fubmitting to a fiery trial many hundred weight, if not tons, of quartz and granite, taken contiguous to the walls of the lode: the iffue was the production of tin, lead, and iron; although no eye could diftinguifh the leaft appearance of thefe metals, previous to their being committed to the furnace.
From this gentleman I obtained a fub-. ftance which had been lately difcovered in
aU
[  7i 1
all the auriferous Streams in France; a fubftance which has certainly a Strong affinity to iron, yet differs effentially from it. It is in the form of fand, is attracted by the magnet, and makes Prunian blue; but it is more obftinate in the fire than pla-tina, having never yet been fufed in the Strongest furnace.   It is, moreover, infolu-ble in acids without heat, gives no inflam-able air, and has never yet been calcined by any acid; befides which, its fpecific gravity is to iron as eleven to nine. From all thefe properties, we may at leaft venture to fufpect, that this newly difcovered fubftance is a modification of iron.
To a man who is devoted to the fciences, no residence can be more delightful than Montpellier. Is he fond of chemif-try ? in M. Chaptal he will find a Sagacious guide, well qualified to conduct him in his purfuits, and to aflifl him in following nature as far as the moft knowing have been able to trace her fteps. The Abbe Bertholon will explain to him the principles of natural philofophy, with a clearnefs and elegance of expreffion peculiar to himfelf; and with an apparatus, perhaps the
F 4 beft
bell in Europe, will demonstrate the truth of thofe principles by well chofen and by the belt conducted experiments. For botany, he can no where find a more able profefibr than Dr. Gouan. The lectures in every fcience are free for all the world; it being a maxim with the French, that wifdom fhould open wide her gates, and, without diftinction, receive all who wifh to enter.
During my progrefs through the vineyards, I obferved that vines are every where valued in proportion to their age. The expcnce attending the plantation and cultivation of a new vineyard is fo great, that upon a good foil, and in fituations eafy of accefs, corn is a more profitable produce.
The belt wine was fold in this vicinity laft autumn for one halfpenny a quart, and wine for brandy was much cheaper. The abundance was fo great, and the demand fo difproportionate, that they were obliged to diftil the major part of their wines for brandy. Moft of this will be fmuggled into England. From the port of Cette alone, laft year, there went upon this trade thirty-two vefiels, which, at three hundred.
t  73 ]
tons each, a ton containing two hundred and fifty-two gallons, makes upwards of two million four hundred thoufand gallons ; and the duty upon this, at nine millings and fix pence a gallon, would have been one million one hundred and forty thoufand pounds.    All this, and much more, was loft to the revenue, by the ab-furd practice of laying on fuch heavy duties. It is much to be lamented, that the well known operation of lowering the duties upon tea, has not opened the eyes of Europe upon this fubject, but more efpecially thofe of our government in England. We have indeed lowered the duty upon brandy to five millings, yet whilft it can be pur-chafed in France for fifteen pence a gallon, unlefs we fink the duty much lower than we have already funk it, the fmuggler, with all his loffes, will contrive to make a living profit.
Thirty gallons of wine produce five gallons of brandy; and this quantity in the vineyards laft year (1785) coft only fifty fols, or about two millings.
France is faid to contain one hundred millions of acres, of which they reckon
that
that little more than one-third is in a State of cultivation j of this portion fomething more than fifteen hundred thoufand acres are occupied by vineyards. If we allow their population to be five and twenty millions, we fhall have four acres for each perfon.
As every thing which relates to their finance is likely to be new modelled, I need fay little on that fubjec"t. Few countries ftand in greater need of a reform, yet not only from the exemptions claimed by the nobles and the clergy, but from the privileges retained by many of the provinces at the time of their union to the reft, it will require either a Strong hand, or moft propitious circumftances, to accomplish this arduous undertaking. A nobleman of Berry told me, that on one fide of a rivulet which flows by his chateau, fait is fold at forty fols a bufhel, and on the other at forty livres, that is, at twenty times as much; in confequence of this, no lefs than two thoufand troops of horfe and foot were ftationed on its banks to check the Smugglers. The farm of fait was fifty*four millions of livres.
The
The whole revenue being twenty-five millions fterling, each perfon pays twenty {hillings annually to the ftate for its protection. If we reckon the revenue of England at fifteen millions, and the population at feven and an half, then each perfon will pay forty {hillings. The people in France, it is true, have paid lefs in proportion to their numbers than the Englifh, yet they have fuffered more than in the fame proportion from the tyranny, vexations, and oppreflion of the farmers general, to whom they have been often fold.
The price of labour, taking the average of France, may be considered as two and twenty fols, or eleven pence per day for men, and ten fols for women, employed in manufactures; yet a good weaver, working eighteen hours a day, will earn three livres ten fols for himfelf and boy; fhearmen will get two livres a day; fpinning women four livres a month, and their board, deducting holidays; carpenters and mafons, twenty-four fols, and two meals a day. In hufbandry, the men get in winter from ten to fourteen fols a day, with a foup at noon; hut in fummer, from twenty to twenty-fix
fols,
fols, and two meals a day.   The women have half as much.
Converting with gentlemen of the medical profeftion in France, I fee clearly that they have not made the fame advancement in the fcience of medicine as gentlemen who have been educated at Edinburgh. The French are fond of Boerhaave, and fo devoted to Hippocrates, that I am perfuaded, in the cafe of fevers, they often, whilft looking for the crifis, lofe the patient. They have almoft univerfally a dread of the antimonial preparations; and when they venture to give the tartar emetic, it is in fo fmall a dofe as feldom to do much good. In the year 1566, the parliament of Paris forbad the ufe of antimony; and, although in 1624, this prohibition was reverfed, the fear which had been excited and kept up for more than half a century, continued to operate againft this powerful medicine. Whilft in Germany and England the fcience has been advancing with the moft rapid progrefs, the French phyficians feem to have been creeping into day with all the timidity of doubt.   One obvious reafon may be afligned for this: with us the practice of
medicine
medicine leads to wealth and honor, whereas in France it leads to neither; the fees are contemptible, and, excepting in Paris, the profeflion is defpifed.
On the fixth of April I left JVIontpellier at rive in the morninsr, with a volantier of Barcelona, having previoufly agreed with him for the ufe of his valante. The common price is fix livres a day, but a young traveller mull not be offended if the volantier mould afk twelve, and elofe the agreement with him at nine. In this little light machine, with one good mule, you travel eight or ten leagues a day.
From Montpellier to Pezenas is eight leagues.   The foil is fandy.   The rock is limeftone.   The fields are open, and produce corn, wine, and oil.   At Pezenas are to be feen the extenfive ruins of a caftle, which belonged to the Montmorency family.   This ftrong fortrefs was hewn out of the rock on which it Hands, and appears to have been complicated and full of art. The walls are lofty, and about eight feet in thicknefs.   The rock, which is perpendicular, is a mafs of fhells, fuch as turbine, oyfters, cockles, with a calcareous cement.
From
r 78 j
From hence the circumjacent plain, decked with luxuriant verdure, and fhut in by rugged mountains, affords a moft delightful
profpect.
The next day we dined at Beziers, a city into which the canal of Languedoc is conftantly conveying the wealth which flows from agriculture. Here the corn, the wine, < the brandy, the olives, and the oil of a country formerly beyond the reach of commerce, find a ready market; and from hence all that tract of country is Supplied, at a fmall expence of carriage, with the productions of diftant nations.
Between Pezenas and Beziers, but nearer to the former, there is a Stratum of pudding ftone, of which the charge is hard blue fchift, retaining the angles and the edges, yet fparingly fcattered in a calcareous cement. Nearer to Beziers the limeftone carries turbine, cockles, mufcles, oyfters, and fcallops, deeply indented, and well defined.
In the afternoon we came early to Nar-bonne, having travelled eight leagues and an half this day.   The leagues are of an
uncertain
t 79 3
uncertain length, fome about three miles,
others four.
All the way from Beziers we traverfe a
rich country, and corn fields, fhaded with
vines,  olives,  mulberries, and almonds,
forming at every ftep the moll enchanting
views.
At Narbonne there is a little ilream, which, by the induflry of the inhabitants, proves to them a more certain fource of wealth than if its fands were gold.
This ilream empties itfelf into a canal of more than half a mile in length, by the fide of which they have extenfive gardens, watered from it by hydraulical machines of remarkable fimplicity.
They confifl of a vertical wheel of twenty feet diameter, on the circumference of which are fixed a number of little boxes, or fquare buckets, to raife the water out of a well, communicating with the canal below, and empty it into a refervoir above, placed by the fide of the wheel. Thefe buckets have a lateral orifice to receive and to difcharge the water. The axis of this wheel is embraced by four fmall beams, croffmg each other at right angles,
taoering
[8o ]
tapering at the extremities, and forming eight little arms.   This wheel is near the centre of the horfe walk, contiguous to the vertical axis, into the top of which the horfe beam is fixed j but near the bottom it is embraced by four little beams, forming eight arms similar to thofe above defcrib-^ ed, on the axis of the water wheel. As the mule, which they ufe, goes round, thefe horizontal arms, fupplying the place of cogs, take hold, each in fuccefiion, of thofe arms which are fixed on the axis of the water wheel, and keep it in rotation.
This machine, than which nothing can be cheaper, throws up a great quantity of water, yet undoubtedly it has two defects: the firll is, that part of the water runs out of the buckets and falls back into the well after it has been raifed nearly to the level of the refervoir; the fecond is, that a considerable proportion of the water to be difcharged is raifed higher than the refervoir, and falls into it only at the moment when the bucket is at the highest, point of the circle, and ready to defcend.
Both thefe defects might be remedied
with
[   8r ]
with eafe, by leaving thefe fquare buckets open at one end, making them fwing on a pivot fixed a little above their centre of gravity, and placing the trough of the re-fervoir in fuch a pofition as to flop their progrcfs whilft perpendicular, make them turn upon their pivot, and fo difcharge their contents.
From the refervoir the water is conveyed by channels to every part of the garden; thefe have divifions and Subdivisions or beds, fome large, others very (mall, fepa-rated from each other by little channels, into which a boy with his fhovel or his hoe directs the water, firfl into the moft diftant trenches, and focceffively to all the reft, till all the beds and trenches have been either covered or rilled with water.
Nothing can furpafs the luxuriance of their crops, nor the activity of thofe who are here engaged in the cultivation of the foil.
In this delightful walk, taking notice of fome bees who were returning leaded to the hive, I recollected that Narbonne was famous for its honey, and therefore deter-
Vol. I. G mined
mined to tafte it before J left the city. For this purpofe I called at an apothecary's, who is reported to keep the best and to fell the moft. His name is Dartiguelongue. The honey which he produced was delicate in its flavour, and beautifully white. This at Narbonne he fells at fifteen pence a pound, and when it is for England, he consigns it to a merchant at Cette.
The day following we travelled eleven leagues and an half, to Perpignan, the laft city of any confequence in France. It is faid to be well fortified, but of that I can form no judgment.
The foil all the way is fandy. The rock is calcareous, and many of the mountains are covered, even to their fummits, with vaft maffes of limeftone which have rolled.
The whole of the Roufillon is rich, and highly cultivated, even to the foot of the Pyrenees, abounding with corn, and wine, and oil, and filk, all of the beft quality. The bleak and rugged mountains before us, at the distance of about three or four leagues, form a striking contrast with the rich valley which they command. Even
thefe
[   «3 ]
thefe mountains are not fufTered to remain uncultivated, but to a considerable height they feel the influence of increafing-capitals, enriched by the growing wealth of the more fertile plain. Winding up through the gorges of the mountains, you lee vines and olives flourifh in every fpot where industry can place them; and, wherever the plough can go, you admire the luxuriance of the corn.
The views all the way up the Pyrenees are beautiful. As you approach their Summit, Belgarde prefents itfelf, feated on a mountain eminent above the reft, and commanding this pafs for a great extent. This fortrefs, the laft in the French dominions, is more remarkable for ftrength than beauty.
All through the Roulillon, it is Striking to fee the people carrying earth in little bafkets on their heads, for want of wheelbarrows. For the prevalence of this ftrange practice I can aflign no caufe, unlefs it be taken from the mountains, where no better mode of conveying earth up the fteep afcent can be devifed. Men are every where more inclined to imitation than to
G 2 the
the fatigue of thinking, or of Seeking for new inventions.
The ploughs they ufe are fuited to the foil, and iimilar to thofe defcribed already in coming up from the Rhone.
In this country you dine for two livres at the table d'Hote, and fup for forty-five ibis, including bread, wine, and bed.
As you approach the borders, the officers of the doiiane become more numerous, and, unTefs well fed, moft impertinent and troublefome. Notwithstanding their numbers and their vigilance, the contraband trade is very brifk. They reckon more than fifteen hundred fmugglers in the Pyrenees j men of defperate refolution, who, knowing the cruel punishments to which they Shall be condemned if taken, travel well armed, and generally in strong parties. A military force is fometimes fent againft them, but to little purpofe, as neither party is ever eager to engage. The fmugglers, strangers to ambition, and little influenced by the thirfl of military fame, without reluctance quit the field; and, unlets when their Superiority is manifest and great, think only of fecuring their retreat; whilft
the
the foldier, regarding this fervice as both dangerous and difgraceful, has no inclination to the attack.
When thefe daring adventurers have the misfortune to be taken, fome of them are hanged, fome are broken upon the wheel, and fome are burnt alive. How mocking to humanity, that governments by their bad policy mould lay fuch fnares for men! how eafy would it be, by a different fyflem of taxation, to fave thefe lives, to avoid thefe cruelties, to employ in profitable labour both him who is engaged in fmug-gling, and thofe who are paid for watching him, to open a free communication with all the world, and thereby to cherifh and promote the induflry, the wealth, the hap-pinefs of every commercial nation upon earth. As long as the governments of Europe fhall continue to foment the fubfiiting jealoufies of trade, and, by heavy duties, to hold forth high premiums to the Smuggler, each muff fuller in its proportion, each will be checked and retrained in the progrefs of its induflry and wealth, each will abound with unprofitable fubjects, and not one of them will be able to enforce a due obfer-G 3 vation
vation of the laws. It is much to be lamented, when light is every where diffufed, and when the eyes of Europe feem open to receive it, that light mould be dirfufed in vain, and that fo little mould have been done by any nation to break thofe fetters, which ignorance, in the dark ages of feudal anarchy, every where impofed upon commerce.
JOURNEY
JOURNEY
FROM THE
ENTRANCE of SPAIN to BARCELONA.
O one, who has not himfelf experi-X^l   enced it, can conceive the fatisfac-tion and delight with which a traveller looks down upon a country into which, for the firft time, he is about to enter. Every thing attracts his notice, and his attention is pleafingly engaged by a rich variety of forms and productions, of manners and of men, with which he had been unacquainted ; and which, in proportion as he values knowledge, will at every ftep increafe his treafure.  The face of the country, the vegetable tribes, the animals, all are new, or at leaft have fomething new to him; and even thofe with which he is moft familiar,
G 4 from
from peculiarities for which they are indebted to the foil, or to the climate, flrike him with new beauties; or, mould they have no claim to beauty, at lean: they have to him the charms of novelty.
Upon my firft. entrance into Spain, after I had caff my eyes around to catch a general view of the country immediately before me, my attention was foon taken up with a phenomenon, which at the time was new to me. In afcending the Pyrenees, after I had loft fight of the limeftone, I faw nothing but fchift to the very fummit of thefe mountains; and pleafed myfelf, as I looked back upon the country which I had left behind me, to fee how much it was indebted to this happy mixture of the limeftone and the fchift for its luxuriant crops. Thefe rocks, elevated to the high-eft regions, expofed to the joint action of froft and rain, broken to fhivers and reduced to powder, driven by winds, or hurried down by torrents, the mouldering fchift producing clay, the limeftone its calcareous earth, and each of thefe contributing the fand which it contained, unite their treafures to enrich all the country
below
[  «9 3
below tbem with a never-failing fupply of marl.
Thus far I met with nothing to fur-prife me; but, after I had paffed the fum-mit of the mountains, and having entered Spain, began defcending to the fouth, expecting to meet more enchanting fcenes, more luxuriant crops, and figns of greater wealth, the face of the country immediately before me appeared defolate and barren, without one cheerful fpot in view, on which the mind could reft.
I muft own I was at firft inclined to attribute this difmal afpecf. to their want of induftry, to fome vice in their government, or to fome error in their political cecono-my; but, upon examination, I foon difco-vered the real caufe of this barrennefs, in the hungry nature of the foil, and the want of thofe two ineftimable feeders of vegetation, the limeftone and the fchift, which near the fummit are feen only to the north; for the moment you begin defcending to the fouth, the rock changes, and you find the granite.
This circumftance is not peculiar to the Pyrenees; it is obfcrved on other lofty
chains
[   9° ]
chains of mountains, and, as highly worthy of attention, may hereafter call for a particular difcuflion. The foil, which arifes from the decompofition of granite, is not friendly to vegetation; for although it contains all the component parts of marie, yet the fand predominates, and the clay is in fuch fmall proportion, that the rains and dew contribute little to nutrition, palling quickly through the fand, or being foon evaporated, and loft in air. The proportion of thefe ingredients, which has been found moft productive, is to have equal parts of clay 'and of calcareous earth, with one quarter of the whole a clean filicious fand. This proportion has been afcertain-ed by the experiments of M. Tillet, as may be feen in the memoirs of the academy of fciences for the year 1772.
It is importable to pafs the Pyrenees without admiring the wifdom of the treaty, A. D. 1660, to which they have given name, as having fixed the moft natural of all boundaries, the ocean alone excepted, between two great commercial nations. There was a period when rivers made the moft
obvious
[   9i ]
obvious limits of an empire; but in a ftate of civilization, thefe change their nature, and are considered by all nations as the moft valuable parts of their poffeffions.
Whereas the fummits of mountains, as abounding with panes eafy of defence, form a ftrong barrier againft a powerful neighbour, and a barrier which is naturally determinated by the parting of the waters; and thefe fummits being little fufceptible of cultivation, leave a convenient fpace between the profitable poffehlons of the two adjoining nations.
The only ufeful vegetable productions of thefe high mountains are the ilex, and the cork tree; the latter very profitable on account of its bark.
When thefe are fifteen years old, they begin to be productive; yet not for the market, this maiden bark being only fit for fuel. At the end of eight years more, the bark improves, but does not arrive at its perfection till the third period; after which, for one hundred and fifty years, it yields a marketable commodity every ten years.   The feafon for'barking is in July
or
or Auguft, when they take fpecial care not to wound the inner bark.
From Perpignan to Junquera, a village of iix hundred and twenty-feven fouls, and the firft you meet with after you enter Spain, is feven leagues, or four French ports.
Here the inns begin to exhibit their wretchednefs. No bedfteads, but only three boards laid upon treftles to fupport a mattrafs; no bed curtains; no glafs in the windows.
It is curious to fee the peafants exercife their fkill in drinking without touching the mouth of the bottle with their lips; and the height from which they let the liquid fall in one continued ltream, without either miffing their aim or fpilling a fingle drop, is moil furprifing. For this purpofe, the orifice of the fpout is fmall, and from their infancy they learn to fwallow with their mouths wide open.
On the tenth of April, early in the morning, we left Junquera, paffing for a considerable way by the fide of a rivulet, which in winter is a raging torrent.   The foil, as
might
might be well expected, is hungry land. The cultivated land is covered with vines, with olives, and with rye, the uncultivated abounds in cork trees. At the feet of the Pyrenees we find an extenfive valley, every where fhut in by mountains, excepting only a fmall opening to the fea, which is near Caftillon de Empurias, in the Bay of Rofes. In this extenfive plain, or rather bafon, which, as we look down upon it, feems flat and level, are many hills, fome riling bold, fome gently fwelling, and covered with various kinds of foil, but chiefly with decompofed granite, which from local circumftances has acquired more than its due proportion of clay, and thereby rendered the barren quartz exceedingly productive.
From Junquera we have three leagues to Figueras, a town of four thoufand fix hundred and forty fouls, where the Spaniards are now erecting a fortrefs, fuppofed to be impregnable : of its ltrength I am not qualified to*judge; but for beauty I cannot conceive any thing to go beyond it. It contains quarters for one hundred and fifty companies of infantry, with five hundred
horfe;
horfe; apartments for fixty officers, each with a kitchen, a dining room, and two fpacious bed rooms; one long range of magazines for provifions, and four for powder; all upon a great fcale, and highly nnifhed. Thefe works are made bomb proof. To fupply the garrifon with water, there is a capacious refervoir under the parade, formed in the quarry from whence was taken all the ftone for thefe extenfive buildings. The glacis, in moft part of the fortification, is formed of the living rock, and the whole Is protected by proper baftions.   It is faid, twelve thoufand men will be fufHcient to defend thefe works.   At prefent there is a hill which commands the fort, but this the patient and perfevering induftry of Spaniards will  certainly  remove, or at leaft  reduce   below the  level  of their works.
It would be difficult to afcertain how much labour has been loft in the eftablifh-ment of this ftrong hold; but we may venture to affirm, on the authoritjn of thofe who are competent to judge, that had the fame fums been expended in the cultivation of the foil, in the eftablifhment of * farms.
[ 95 ] ■ farms, in making canals, and mending roads, to invite Strangers into Spain, inltead of building fortifications to keep them out, the face of the whole country had been changed, not merely in point of beauty, but of Strength. The folly of all offenfive wars begins to be understood in Europe, but more efpecially in France; and as for de-fenfive war, the refiftance of America, by its fuccefsful iffue, and that of Corfica, which, although not fuccefsful, coft the French five times more than the value of I the conqueSt, prove that a country tolerably ftrong in itfelf, and well defended by its inhabitants, needs no fortification to repel invaders.
Extenfive fortifications cod immense funis to erect, and fo much to keep them in repair, that they are commonly Suffered to decay. Every fuch fortrefs requires an army to defend it, and when the moment of trial comes, the whole may depend on the weaknefs or treachery of a commander,, and, inftead of a defence to the country, may afford a lodgment to the enemy. If an able man happens to command, admitting the country to be both well peopled and
well
well governed, may not more be expected from him in the field than in the fortrefs ? The moft obftinate refiftance the Romans met with was from a city that had no walls. In a difcourfe of Baron Hertz berg not long fince publifhed, we may fee what was the opinion of the late king of Pruflia on this fubject; for, whilft he expended triflina: fums on his fortifications, he was at a vaft expence in promoting agriculture and manufactures in his dominions; having, in the fpace of a few years, built five hundred -and thirty-nine villages, and efta-blifhed in them forty-two thoufand fix hundred and nine families, on the banks of the Oder, the Havel, and the Elbe; befides three thoufand families on the Netz and Warthe.
Fortifications are only needful for the maintainance of ufurped dominion, or to protect the borders of a kingdom from the incuriions of a barbarous nation, whofe object is to plunder.
The price of provisions at Figueras is remarkable: beef and bread are each about three halfpence fterling per pound, troy weight, but mutton is nine pence. The
reafon
reafon of this difparity is, that they plough with oxen, and have few fheep.
Between this town and the Col de Oriol, the rock, wherever it appears, is lime* ftone.
From Figueras  to   Gerona is feven leagues.   About half way between thefe places, we pafs over a high mountain, called la  Cuefta  Regia;   in afcending which we find a bafe of pudding ftone, whofe charge is fmooth, rounded, filicious gravel, with a calcareous cement; the top and all the middle region is fchift; but in defcending near the bottom, the fame pudding ftone appears again; from which I conclude that this kind of rock pervades the mountain, and forms its bafe. This phenomenon is worthy of attention, and defcrves a more minute investigation and defcription than a hafty traveller can be-ftow upon it.
The situation of Gerona is delightful; on a declivity, looking' to the S. W. and fed by a rich well watered valley, which is open to the meridian fan, but bounded to the North and to the Eaft, and Sheltered Vol. L H by
by high mountains. The whole city feemS to be built of the pudding itone.
The foil is fand and clay, productive of all kinds of grain fuch as beans, peas, lupines, wheat, and barley, with faintfoin and clover. This land they either dig with tridents or three pronged forks, and till with oxen and fuch ploughs as I have before defcribed, with this difference, that they have only one handle, and inffead of pins, they have two iron wings fixed to the fhare, extending beyond the heel, to fupply in fome meafure the place of mould-boards.
All the way to Mataro, the foil, and even the fand of the fea Shore, is nothing but the quartz and mica of decompofed granite; which, when not robbed of its clay, is made productive.
Nothing is more common than to jump at a conclufioh; but if, without fubject ing myfel'f to fuch a charge, I might venture to hazard a conjecture, I fhould be inclined to think, that wherever vitrefcent fand appears, whether on the fea Shore, or On calcareous; mountains, it comes 'from gtfanite.
After
- After having travelled four leagues and an half from Gerona, we arrived at Gra-notta, where we flopped to dine. Within three leagues and an half of Calella, the fice of the country changes; for here, leaving the valley, we afcend once more the mountains, which, as I expected, are granite. This variety is pleafing, for, although they are fcarcely fufceptible of cul* tivation, except for vines, nature has by no means neglected them, but with more than common liberality has clothed them with perpetual verdure, and given them in great abundance the elegant arbutus, with a rich variety of flowering Shrubs and aromatic herbs.
Having pad thefe ever fragrant mountains, we'defcend again into a valley, which is protected from the incroachments of the fea by lofty clirTs. In this valley we crofs a river, which Shews the nature of the country through which it Slows; for, although at prefent it contains little water, and may be forded without danger, yet* after haSty ihowers, it rages with un?o-Vernable fury, and carries every thing before it.  The valley being flat, and the foil,
H 2 to
[     IOO ]
to a confiderable depth iharp fand, without any natural cohefion, the torrents, uncon-fined by banks, have widened their channel to the extent of near a quarter of a mile. This fand is evidently derived from granite, freed perfectly from clay by conflant warning.
Having paffed the river, not far diftant from its mouth we afcended a hill, from whofe fummit we looked down upon a fea coaff, where all nature wears a fmiling afpect. Throughout the whole tract of country we left behind us, the vines had not begun to bud, and the birds were filent on the mountains; but here the vines ihewed long branches with bloffoms and young fruit, whilft the birds feemed to vie with each other, which fhould charm the ear with moft delightful melody. The little hills were covered with vines and olives, and the fea feemed all alive with nfhing boats. From this delightful fpot numerous villages appear as far as the eye can reach.
. In one of thefe, Calella, which, according to the genius of the Spanifh language, is pronounced Callelia, we took up our
lodging
[ m ]
iodging for the night. It has eight hundred and eighty-fix fouls, and employs near fifty fi/liing boats.
The next morning, when we fet forward on our journey, about five, I was not a little flruck to fee children, with old men and women, each carrying a little bafket, watching, precifely as in the fouth of France, for the dung of mules and horfes which were paffing by. This practice, whilft. it implies poverty of foil, evidently proves that for induftry at leail they defer ve highly to be praifed.
The conduct; of farmers in the weft of England is the reverfe of this. Their de-pendance for manure being wholly on fand and weeds, the produce of the ocean, they neglect the more obvious fource of plenty to be derived from cattle. They fet a proper value upon what the Catalans defpife; but, in return, thefe are careful to collect the treafiare which the others furfer to be loft 3 whereas the true wifdom would be to avail themfelves of both.
In going from Calella to Mataro, four leagues, the way is wholly by the fea fide;
H 3 the
the firft part of it over granite rocks, the latter on the beach.
Mataro, a nourishing fea port of nine thoufand fix hundred and feventy-nine fouls, has, for its loyalty and attachment to the prefent family, been made a city. Here are three convents for men, and two for women, with one general hofpital. It gives employment to nineteen looms, fixteen flocking frames, makes much lace, prints linens for America, and is distinguished for the excellence of its red wine. Scarcely one idle perfon is to be feen. It is however to be lamented, that fo much of their labour Should be loft by thofe who are engaged in weaving ribbons: inftead of making many at the fame time, all their looms are fingle. If this proceeds from ignorance, government Should take care to have them better taught; if it is the effect of prejudice, they fhould be allured by premiums to become greater ceconcmifls of time.
All through Catalonia you admire at every Step the induftry of the inhabitants, who, working early and late, give fertility to a foil which naturally, except for vines,
is
[   I03 I
is moft unproductive; but when you come to Mataro, you are perfectly enchanted: the farms are fo many gardens, divided every where into beds of about four feet wide, with a channel for the paffage of the water to each bed.   Every farm has its Noria, a fpecies of chain pump, which, from its extreme fimplicity, feems to have been the invention of the moft remote antiquity.   By means of this machine they every morning draw a fuificient quantity of water from the well for the fervice of the day, and in the evening diftribute it tor every quarter, according to the nature of their crops.   The refervoirs into which they raife the water are about twenty, thirty, or even forty feet fquare, and three feet high above the furface of the ground, with a ftone cope on the wall, declining to the water, for the women to warn and beat their clothes upon.   The foil is fo light, being nothing but fand from the decomposition of the granite, that they plough with two oxen or one horfe, or even with a mule; yet, by the afiiftance of the water,, it is made fertile, and produces on the fame fpot of ground :Corn, wine, oranges, and H 4 olives.
olives. The American aloe is here planted as a fence.
When we drew near to Barcelona, we had to crofs a river, in which we counted fifty felons, clothed in green, and employed in clearing the channel, whilft centinels ftationed at convenient diftances prevented their efcape.
It is curious to obferve this mark of contempt for the Moors, in clothing their, vileft criminals, and even their hangman, in green, the facred colour of Mahometans, more efpecially. in Africa.
All the way from Montpellier to Belgarde, the road is wide, and kept in excellent repair; but from the entrance into Spain to within about two leagues of Barcelona nothing feems to have been done fince the foundation of the world, either to expedite the progrefs of a traveller, or even to fe-cure his fafety, fhould he have occafion to pafs this way. Although to an Englishman thefe roads muff appear deteftable, yet if we look back thirty or forty years, to the time when moft of our provincial roads were in the fame condition, and reflect how much has been done within that 6 period,
period, we may hope that the induftry of Catalans will not overlook an object of fo great importance; and that our children who vifit thofe delightful regions will pafs through them with lefs hazard and more comfort than their fathers did before them.
The vernal fun, fouth of the Pyrenees, is reviving to the traveller; but the feafon of lent has one circumftance attending it, which, in a catholic country, is not perfectly agreeable, nor indeed conducive to his health: for, during thefe forty days of abftinence, he muft learn to live on fifh and vegetables; becaufe, although in Spain they have now four days in the week, in which, by fpecial indulgence, they may eat flcfh, few people are inclined to ufe this privilege.
The accommodations, if not in lent, are more than tolerable, and cheaper than either in England or in France. ■ You pay ibr a volante, with a good mule, attended by a guide, five lhillings a day, without - further charge; fifteen pence for dinner, without any limitation in quantity of wine; twenty pence for fupper and your bed;
and,
and, in the morning, two pence for chocolate. Thefe being the regular and Stated prices, leave no room for difputing with the landlord, as the moft patient are fome-times obliged to do in France.
In all this country oxen draw heavy loads on the high way, and move with fpirit.
BARCELONA,
IN this journey I made the greater fpeed, in order to fpend the holy week at Barcelona; and I have no reafon to repent the pains I took to be prefent at their fo-lernnities. No citizens perhaps beflow fo much expence, and no magistrates can .pay more attention, than the citizens and magistrates of Barcelona, in the procefiions of the holy week.
On Wednefday, the 12th of April, I arrived, and the next morning early I vilited the churches, to fee the preparations they-had made for the entertainment of the evening, in which they were to reprefent the laft sufferings of the Redeemer. In
every
[   i°7 ]
every church I found two images, as large as life, diftinguifhed from the reft as being Stationary, and the more immediate objects of their devotion j the one reprefenting Chrift as taken from the crofs, the other the Virgin in all her beft attire, pierced by feven fwords, and leaning over the recumbent body of her fon. Behind thefe images, a theatre with colonades, fupporting a multitude of wax tapers, dazzled the fight, whilft the ear was charmed by the harmonious chaunting of the choir.
More than a hundred thoufand perfons all the morning crowded the Streets, hurrying from church to church to exprefs the warmth of their zeal, and the fervor of their devotion, by bowing themfelves in each, and killing the feet of the moft revered image. Moft of the fpectators were natives of the city, but many upon fuch occafions refort to Barcelona from the adjacent villages, and fome from diftant provinces.
. Towards the clofe of day the pageant appeared, moving with flow and folemn pace along the flreets, and conducted with the moft perfect regularity. The laft flipper
per of Chrift with his difciples, the treachery of Judas, attended by the priefts, together with the guards, the flagellation, the crucifixion, the taking from the crofs, the anointing of the body, and the burial, with every tranfaction of the clofing fcene, and the events fubfequent to the pafiion of our Lord, were reprefented by images large as life, placed in proper order on lofty ftages, many of which were elegant, and all as highly ornamented as carving and gilding, rich filks, brocades, and velvets, with curious embroidery, all executed by their moft ikilful artifts, could render thjm. No ex-pence was fpared either in the materials, the workmanfhip, or the wax lights, which, with the moft fplendid profufion, were confumed upon this occafion. Each of thefe ftages was fupported on the Shoulders of fix men, who were completely hid by a covering of blacl*. velvet hanging round the margin of the ftage, and reaching nearly to the ground. This proceftion was preceded by Roman centurions clothed in their proper armour, and the foldiers of the garrifon brought up the rear. The intermediate fpace was occupied by the
groups
[   i<>9 ]
groups of images above defcribed, attended by eight hundred burgeffes, clothed in black buckram, with flowing trains, each carrying a flambeau in his hand.   Befides thefe, one hundred and fourfcore penitents engaged my more particular attention. Like the former, they carried each a flambeau, but their drefs was Angular, fome what re-fembling that of the blue-coat boys of ChrhTs hofpital in London, being a jacket and coat in one, reaching to their heels, made of dark brown fhalloon, with a bonnet on their head, like what is called a fool's cap, being a cone covering the head and face completely, and having holes for the eyes. The defign of this peculiar form is to conceal the penitents, and to fpare their blufhes.   Thefe were followed by twenty others, who, either from remorfe of conference, or having been guilty of more atrocious crimes, or for hire, or with the moft benevolent intention of adding to the common fund of merit for the fervice of the church, walked in the procefTion bare footed, dragging heavy chains, and bearing large erodes on their moulders. Their penance was fevere; but, for their
comfort,
comfort, they had aSfigncd to them the poft of honour ;.for immediately after them followed the facred corpfe placed in a glafs coffin, and attended by twenty-live priefls, dreffed in their richest robes. Near the body a well chofen band with hautboys, clarinets, French horns, and flutes, played the fofteft and moft folemn muSic. This part of the proceffion wanted nothing to heighten the effect. I am perfuaded that every one Who had a foul for harmony felt the Starting tear. *
In the proceffions of the prcfent day, practices which had crept in when chivalry prevailed, with all its wild conceits, practices inconsistent with found morals, and offenfive to humanity, are no longer to be Seen. The civil magistrate, interpoSing his authority, has forbidden, under the fe-vereft penalties, abominations which, as the genuine offspring of vice, could not have ventured to appear, even in the darkeft ages, unlefs in the difguife and under the fanction of religion. The adulterer, if he will court the affections of his miftreis, no longer permitted publicly to avow his paf-fion, to fcourge himfelf in her prefence,
and
[ in ]
and by the feverity of his fuSferings to excite her pity, muft now feek the Shade, and if he feels himfelf inclined to ufe the difcipline, it muft be where no human eye can fee him. In thefe ages of fuperior knowledge and refinement, men look back with wonder at the ftrangely inconfiftent conduct of their progenitors, when, ignorant of every thing but arms, they embraced and carried with them a religion whofe influence they never felt, and the purity of whofe precepts they did not understand. It was not in Spain only that fuperftition reared her throne, all Europe acknowledged her dominion, and in every nation in which the victorious banner of the Goths and Vandals was difplayed, we have feen execrable vices cherifhed in the fame breaft which appeared to glow with fervid zeal for the glory of God, at leaft as far as could be teftified by the moft Strict attention to the ceremonials of religion. All Europe is emerging from this State of Gothic ignorance, and Spain, although the laft, it is to be hoped will not be the leaft enlightened.
When the pageant was over, the people
retired
t m ]
retired quietly to their habitations; and although more than a hundred thoufand perfons had been affcmbled to view this fpecta-cle, no accident of any kind was heard of. The day following, before eight in the morning, another proceflion of the fame kind, but more elegant than the former, was conducted through the Streets, and in the evening, a third, at which am fled all the nobles of Barcelona, each attended by two fervants, and, in rotation, carrying a crucifix large as the life, and fo heavy, that no one for any length of time could fuflain the weight of it.   The Stages and the images were not the fame which had been exhibited the preceding day, but reprefented all the fame events.  Every Stage was completely occupied by images large as life, and Surrounded by a border of open carved work Superbly gilt; and the bearers, as in former instances, were hid by curtains of black velvet, richly embroidered. Two hundred penitents in grey attended as before.    In each of thefe proceffions were many children, fome not more than three years old, carrying little crones, with each a flambeau in his hand.   Thefe are ufed in
all
t   "3 ]
all procelfions, even in the middle of the day.
The different Stages, with their groups of figures, belong to different bodies corporate, either of the nobles or artificers, and are ranged in the proceffions according to their right of precedency. Thefe groups are called the myflery of the corporation. That of the French artificers is an Ecce homo, but for fome reafon the conful walks before it, attended only by the meanefl fubjects of his nation.
The fucceeding day, at nine o'clock in the morning, when, as being Saturday, I had no expectation of fuch an event, the Refurrection was announced by bells ringing, drums beating, cannons firing, people Shouting, colours flying, and, in a moment, all the Signs of mourning were fucceeded by tokens of the moft frantic joy.
The procelfions were intermitted for fe-veral years, prohibited by government on account of abufes which had crept into them, and, in their place, the carnival was fubStituted, with the fame licentious riot and confufion as I have defcribed in Paris, and as all who have palfed the carnival in
Vol. I. I itaiy
Italy have feen. But after the inhabitants of Barcelona, in the year 1774, had rcufted the demands of government, requiring them to draft every fifth man for the army, like the other cities and provinces of Spain, the carnival was forbid, and the trade, which had been always brifk at this leafon, felt a lofs, which made the citizens call loudly for the restoration of their pro-ceffions.
After Eafter they have one upon a fmaller fcale; about feventy prieffs, each with a lighted flambeau in his hand, preceded by a herald with his banner, carry the holt, under a canopy of crimfon velvet, to thofe who had not been well enough to receive it in the churches.
The Streets of Barcelona are narrow and crooked, like thofe of all antient cities. The old Roman town may ft ill be dif-tin&ly traced, occupying a fmall eminence in the centre of the prefent city, with one of its gates and fome of its towers, well preferved. In this are many farcophagi, altars, images, and inferiptions, with a temple of Neptune, all which have been well defcribed by antiquarians. It was here x that
that Ferdinand and Ifabella received Columbus, returning from America, and from hence that navigator failed on his fecond expedition, in the year 1493.
In vifiting the churches of Barcelona, an observation is confirmed, which had occurred even in the moft contemptible of the country villages fouth of the Pyrenees. It is evident that all their decorations were invented about the beginning of the sixteenth century, after the gold and filver of America had been brought to Spain, and every altar piece, with every column, Shews that their improvement in tafte did net keep pace with their increafe of wealth. Riches came upon them by furprife, and found them unprepared to make a proper ufe of the abundant treafure.   Hence even the composite and the Corinthian pillars are loaded with new ornaments, and whether fluted or contorted, they are entwined by ivy or by vines, and are almoft hid by the multitude of angels fluttering round them, or by cherubs  climbing up the branches ; and the whole of this preposterous affemblage is covered with one glare of gold.   The present generation is en-I 2 lightened,
[   n6 ]
lightened, and their tafte is much refined; yet they want refolution to reform abufes, and to ftrip off thofe ornaments to which the blind zeal and devotion of their forefathers, have given fanction. One of their beft writers has remonftrated, and his re-monftrances have engaged the attention of government to make wife regulations for the future.
They have in this city an academy for the noble arts, open to all the world, in which all who attend are freely taught drawing, architecture, and fculpture, under the direction of D, Pedro Moles, and others, who, like him, excel in the branches they profefs. For this purpofe, they have feven fpacious halls, furnifhed at the king's expence with tables, benches, lights, paper, pencils, drawings, models, clay, and living fubjects; they aflemble in the morning from ten to twelve, and in the evening from fix to eight, in winter, and from eight to ten in fummer.
This academy is well attended; I counted one night upwards of five hundred boys, many of whom were finifhing designs, which fhewed either fuperior genius
or
I  ll7 )
or more than common application. It is not to be imagined that all thefe boys, or perhaps any of them, are deflined to be painters: this was not the intention of government, much lefs of count Campoma-nes, who fuggefled the inftitution, Moft, if not all thefe youths, are apprenticed to trades ; and it is well imagined, that every other art may receive fome aififfance from this, whofe peculiar property it is to excel in imitation, and much wanted in England. Not only the fculptor, the architect, and the engineer, but the coach-maker, the cabinet-maker, the weaver, nay even the taylor and the haberdafher, may derive great advantages from that accuracy of fight, and that fertility of invention, which are acquired by the practice of drawing and designing.
D. Pedro Moles is an artifl whofe works have been univerfallv admired for the beauty of his Stroke, and the force of his expreffiom It is a pity that the graver was ever taken from his hand; he may perhaps be more ufefully employed in fu-perintending this academy, but, as an engraver, he would have acquired a more
1 3 lifting
[   n8 |
lading fame, and have made a better provi-fion for his family.
One of the feven halls is fitted up as a nautical fchool, and is provided with every thing which is needful to teach the art of navigation. The fludents, who at prefent are only thirty-fix, affcmble every morning from eight to ten, and every evening from three to five. Since the firft eftablifhrnent of this ufcful feminary, they have fent out more than five hundred pilots, qualified to navigate a veffel to any quarter of the globe.
Equally well furnifhed with the preceding, and equally well conducted is the military academy, in which there are three magnificent apartments for the ftudents to purfue their fludies, from the firft elements, of the mathematics, to the higher branches of their profefiion.
Befides thefe inftitutions for the inftruc-tion of fuch as are devoted to arts or arms,, there are not wanting fome of more general utility, acceflible to all the citizens without diftin&ion. Thefe are a cabinet of natural hiftory, and the public libraries, of which there are four; three general, and
the
the other confined to medicine and forgery; the cabinet belongs to D. Jaime Salvador.   From the reports of this collection, I bad formed high expectations, but  I  mult  confers  myfelf dissatisfied. Some thirty or forty years ago, it may have been worthy of attention, but the fcience itfelf,  and  the cabinets of the curious, are fo much improved, that collections, which at remoter periods excited wonder, are in the prefent dayjuftly regarded with cold indifference.   The general libraries are thofe of the bi(hop's college, of the Carmelites, and of the Dominicans.   This laft I found moft worthy of attention, as containing more modern books of value than either of the former. Among thefe, fome of the moft considerable were the Ruins of Palmira; Raphael's Heads, by Fidanza; Duhalde's China; Monumens de la Greece; Hiftoire genealogique de la Mai-fon Royale de France, & des anciens Barons, par le P. Anfelme; Antichita di Er-colano; Muratori Thefaur. vet. Infcriptio-num; Numifmata Vir. illuft. ex Barbadica gente j Danubius Pannonico Mylicus. Thefe may ferve to Ihew that the collection is
I 4 not
not contemptible. In Short, whatever flu-dies a man may be deiirous of purfuing, he will find in one or other of thefe libraries the befl books, to which he may have ac-cefs fix hours every day, excepting holidays. In the convent of the Dominicans there is one apartment filled entirely with books prohibited by the inquifition, and, in order that no one may be tempted to perufe them, all the vacant fpaces are filled with devils cracking human bones, it is to be fuppofed of heretics. Left, however, this fight fhould not fuffice to check a prying difpofition, they are well fecured by lock and key, and no one has accefs to thefe without a fpecial licence.
In the cloifler of the Dominicans there are more than five hundred records of fen-tences pafTed on heretics, containing their name, their age, their occupation, their place of abode, the time when they were condemned, and the event; whether the party were burnt in perfon or in effigy, or whether he recanted and was faved, not from the fire and the faggot, for then he might relapfe, but from the flames of hell. Moft of thefe were women.   The firfl date is
A. D.
. '///ytu'ot'/rria/ , Mem/.
f    *» ]
A. D. 1489, and the laft, 1726. Under each infcription there is a portrait of the heretic, fome half, others more than three parts, devoured by devils. I was fo much ftruck with the fantaftic forms which the painters had given to their demons and the ftrange attitudes of the heretics, that I could not refift my inclination to copy fome of them when no one was walking in the cloifter. Some time after this, fitting with one of the inquisitors, who did me the honour of a vifit, he in a carelefs manner took up my memorandum book, and as chance would have it, opened pre-cifely on the leaf which contained my drawings: I laughed; he coloured; but not one word efcaped from either at the time. Fifteen months after this, when I returned to Barcelona, he fmiled, and faid, " You fee that I can keep a fecret, and " that we are not ftrangers to principles " of honour."
During my residence at Barcelona, I had an opportunity of feeing all the courts of the inquifition aflembled in a grand proceftion to celebrate the feaft of S. Pedro Martyr, their patron faint, in the church of St. Catharine of the Dominicans..
nicans. Happy had it been for Christendom if all their festivals had been as innocent as this. It is, however, universally acknowledged, for the credit of the corps at Barcelona, that all its members are men of worth, and molt of them distinguished for humanity.
Visiting   the  churches  at  all hours, whenever any fervice was performed, I made a party with fome friends to hear a penitential fervice in the convent of St. Felipe Neri, on Friday evening of April 28. The first part of the Miferere was no fooner ended than the doors were ihut, the lights were extinguished, and we remained in perfect  darkness.    At this moment, when the eye could no longer find an object to distract the mind, the attention was awakened by the voice of harmony, for the whole congregation joined in the Miferere, which they fung with pleasing folemnity; at firft with foft and plaintive notes; but having laid bare their backs, and prepared them for the fcourge, they all began nearly at the fame instant to ufe the difcipline, railing their. voices, and quickening the time, increasing by degrees both in velocity
and
[    1*3 ]
and violence, fcourging themfelves with greater vehemence as they proceeded, and fiiSgin* louder and hardier, till at the end of twenty minutes, all distinction of found was loft, and the whole ended in one deep groan. Prepared as I had been to expect fomething terrible, yet this fo far imparled my expectation that my blood ran cold; and one of the company, not remarkable for feniibility of nerves, being thus taken by furprife, burn: into tears.
This difcipline is repeated every Friday in the year, oftener in Lent, and is their daily practice during the holy week. I was not at liberty to afk what advantage they derived, or what benefits they expected to receive from this feverity; yet, from the prevalence of vice in Spain, I fear this practice has little if any tendency to reform their morals.
The hofpicio, or houfe of induftry for the poor next attracted my attention. This inftitution originated in the year 1582, much about the time when the poor began to occupy the ferious attention of all the governments in Europe. With the houfe of induftrv is united the hofpital of mercv,
which,
which, in the year 1699, was put under the care of the nuns of St. Francis, called Monjas Terciarias de S. Francifco. The whole was reformed in 1772.   In this eftablifhment they provide for children of parents who are burthened with a numerous offspring, for beggars, and for other objects of diftrefs.   In the year 1784, they had  1466   paupers;  the year following 1383 ; and, when I was there in 1785, the number was 1460, the average being fourteen hundred and   thirty-fix.   Of this number, about one thoufand are able to work, three hundred are idiots, and the reft, are little children.   The whole ex-pence for them is about forty-eight thoufand two hundred livres Catalan, or about five thoufand one hundred and fixty-four pounds fterling per annum.   The king-allows for each pauper fourteen maravedis per day to purchafe a ration of bread. Thefe are equal to one penny fterling, or nearly fo.    The   voluntary contribution amounts to about fifteen thoufand livres Catalan, and the deficiency is made up by the bifhop.   The women and children are employed in knitting, fpinning, and in making
[   «J ]
ing lace.   The men card, comb, fpin, and weave cotton, flax, and wool.   The produce of their labour is contemptible, being at the rate only of one penny each per day, mould we allow, which cannot be allowed in Spain, three hundred working days, and one thoufand paupers fit to be employed.   Yet this produce is greater in proportion than the average of our work-houfes in England.  Although no paupers can be either better clad, better fed, better attended, or better. lodged, or can meet with greater tendernefs when they are ill, they cannot readily forget their lofs of liberty.   All thefe comforts, therefore, are defpifed when  compared  with freedom, and few, befides the moft decrepit, would remain within thofe walls if they could be permitted to beg their bread from door to door.   This principle, however, is productive of much good; for moft of the young men in Barcelona, of any worth or fpirit, form themfelves into clubs for mutual relief, in the fame manner, and nearly upon the plan adopted by our friendly focieties in England.   Thefe fraternities have each its firm, taken from the name of the Saint 6 to
to whofe protection it is recommended. They are upon the moil rcfpectable footing, and being well conducted, leave none but the mod improvident and moft worth-lefs fubjects to be difgraced by confinement amons fools and madmen. Thofe who are able to work, but choofe rather to live in idlenefs and vice, are left to the correction of the laws.
There is one houfe of correction, which is too remarkable to be palTed over in filence. It embraces two objects; the firft is the reformation of proftitutes and female thieves; the fecond, the correction of women who fail in their obligation to their huibands, and of thofe who either neglect or difgrace their families. The. houfe for thefe purpofes being divided into diftinct portions, without any communication between them, the one is called real cafa de galcra and the other r-eal cafa de correc-cion. For each of thofe, who are fhut up in the former, the king allows feven de-niers to purchafe eighteen ounces of bread, and nine deniers, which is nearly one penny fterling, to procure meat. The fund for this arifes from fines; but to aid this fund,
the
[     % ]
the women are obliged to work as long as they can fee.   By their labour they earn about five millings a month, half of which they have for themselves, whilft, of the other half, the alcayde or governor has one-tenth to ftimulate his attention to his duty. Thefe women, working thus from light to light, would earn much more were it not for the multitude of holidays.   The ladies, who deierve more fevere correction than their huibands,  fathers,  or other relatives can properly administer, are confined by the magistrates, for a term proportioned to their offences, in this royal maniion, or cafa real de correction.   The relation, at whofe fuit they are taken into cuftody, pays three fueldos, or four pence halfpenny per day for their maintenance; and with this fcanty provision they muft be contented.   Here they are compelled to work, and the produce of their labour is deposited for them till the time of their confinement is expired.   The whole building will contain five hundred women; but at prefent there are only one hundred and tliirteen.   Among thefe are fome ladies of condition, who are fuppofed to be vifiting
fome
fome diftant friends. Here they receive bodily correction, when it is judged necei-fary for their reformation. This eftablilh-ment is under the direction and government of the regents de la audiencia, affified by the two fenior criminal judges, with the alcayde and his attendants. One of thefe judges conducted me through the fe-veral apartments, and from him I received my information. Among other particulars, he told me, that they had then under difcipline, a lady of failiion, accufed of drunkennefs, and of being imprudent in her conduct. As flie was a widow, the party accufing was her brother-in-law, the marquis of-.
The judges of this court are univerfally acknowledged to be men of probity, and worthy of the high degree of confidence thus placed in them. One of them, Don Francifco de Zamora, to whom I am indebted for the moft polite attentions, is a gentleman of indefatigable application, and of univerfal knowledge.
The audiencia mentioned above, although a modern inftitution, bears fome refemblancc to the courts of Wcftminfter
Hall,
[   I29 ]
Hall, and a still greater to the parliaments in France, having the administration of justice, civil and criminal, committed to it, with the government, both ceconomical and political, of the whole province, like the ancient courts of all the feodal fovereigns. The captain general and governor of Catalonia is prefident of the audiencia, with a vote. This tribunal, which is supreme, and receives appeals, is divided into three courts, one criminal, the other two civil, and when united into one, ceconomical.
In each of thefe are five judges. The kings of Arragon, and after them the fovereigns of the united empire of Caftile and Arragon* were accuftomed to appoint viceroys of Catalonia, till Philip V. in the year 1716, changed the government of this province, established the audiencia, and appointed his captain general to preside in it.
Befides thefe general courts, there is one established for commerce, which is again fubdivided; of the fubdivifions, one being judicial, determines differences between the merchants, the other has the government of all arts and manufactures.
Vol. I. K The
The whole city of Barcelona is divided into five districts or wards, over each of which prefides one of the five alcaldes del crimen, or judges of the criminal court of the audiencia, with his promoter, efcrivano, al-guacil, portero, and alcaldes de barrio, to determine, in the nrfl instance, all caufes both civil and criminal between the inhabitants, and to preferve the peace in their feveral wards. The alcaldes de barrio, of which each ward choofes annually eight, refem-ble our constables. But befides thefe two alcaldes may ores are confervators of the peace, and juftices for the city at large.
The government of Barcelona, as far as relates to political ceconomy, is committed to a court of twenty-four regidores nobles, or aldermen, four deputies from the commons, with authority to vote, and two syndics, the one called procurador, and the other perfonero. This court is fubordinate to the acuerdo, or ceconomical court, which is compofed of the two civil courts, af-iifted by the regente de la real audiencia, and presided over by the captain general of the province.
There are three colleges of efcrivanos;
the
the firft are called efcrivanos publicos, or efcrivanos de numero, who are fcriveners to make contracts and wills.   The fecond are efcrivanos reales de la audiencia, who are prefent in court to authenticate all transactions there; but who may, by fpecial licence, make contracts alio: of each of thefe the number is limited to forty. The third are improperly called efcrivanos, being procuradores, that is, proctors, folicit-ors, attornies, or counfel, to folicit and to plead all caufes in the courts of juftice.. In Catalan thefe are diftinguilhed by the name of notaries reales caufuiicos, and although by law they are limited to thirty, it is impofiible to confine them to that number, becaufe of the multitude of caufes which they have to plead.   There are at prefent feventy-three of thefe, befides one hundred and ninety-nine advocates.
The multitude of caufes does not arile in Catalonia, as in Wales, from any. violence of temper, or litigious fpirit in the inhabitants, but from the uncertainty of its laws. They have a peculiar code, called, Constitutions of Catalonia; but this being inadequate to their wants, the next in force is K 2 the
the canon law and, where that is filent, their ultimate refort is to the Juftinian code.
The procefs is by written evidence, and the only parties vifible in court are the judges and the pleaders, with the rela-toresj or readers of that evidence authenticated by the efcrivano, in whofe prefence it was taken. For the afliflance of the poor there is appointed a procurador, and alfo an abogado; the one to foliclt, the other to plead their caufes.
No hofpital that I have feen upon the continent is fo well administered as the general hofpital of this city. It is peculiar in its attention to convalefcents, for whom a feparate habitation is provided, that after they are difmirTed from the fick wards as cured of their difeafes, they may have time to recruit their strength, before they are turned out to endure their accuflomed hardships, and to get their bread by labour. Nothing can be more ufeful, nothing more humane, than this appendage. The numbers they received into this hofpital were, in the year 1785, nine thoufand two hundred and ninety-nine; and in 1786, fix
thoufand
[   *33 ]
thoufand four hundred and eighty-eight. In the former year they buried eight hundred and fifty-four; in the latter, nine hundred and twenty-fix; which, upon the average, is nearly a ninth of thofe who enter; but then it muft be considered, that many are put into public hofpitals merely to fave the expence of funerals.
With this hofpital is united, under the fame administration, an establishment for foundlings, fufficiently capacious for the city and its environs. The deferted children were five hundred and twenty-eight, on the average of the two last years, and of thefe two-thirds were buried; a proportion ihocking to humanity, but the inevitable confequence of taking infants from the mother, and crowding them together in a city; more efpecially if, as in Barcelona, five children hang upon one nurfe. It is much to be lamented, that they have not, like the French, recourfe to the milk of goats; or, like the children in the Orphan Hofpital in Dublin, learnt to ufe fucking bottles.
The boys on this foundation are bound apprentice when of a proper age; the girls,
K 3 when
when marriageable, are conducted in pro-ceflion through the Streets, and any young man who fees one whom he would choofe for a wife is at liberty to mark her, which he does by throwing his handkerchief.
Befides thefe charitable foundations, there is in Barcelona an orphan hofpital which I did not vifit.
The inns are little inferior to thofe of the great towns in France. The table is well ferved, and fupplied with plenty of good wine. The whole expence for lodging and board is only five livres French, or four fhillings and two pence fterling per day.
Barcelona may be confidered as divided either into diftricts or into parifhes> the former being five, the latter eight, including the cathedral. In a circumference of four miles it contains at prefent ten thoufand two hundred and fixty-feven houfes, and twenty thoufand one hundred and twenty-eight families, confifting of ninety-four thoufand eight hundred and eighty perfons.
The thriving condition of this city will
appear
[   *35 ]
appear by exhibiting at one view the ftate of its population at different periods.
A. D. 1464, the number of perfons was - - 4°>000 1657, - 64,000 1715, - - - - 37,000 1759, in i 3,917 families, - 69,585 1778, in i6,608 ditto - 84,870 1786, in 20,128 ditto     - 94,880
The falling off, in 1715, may be readily accounted for, by recollecting, that during the war of the fucceflion, Barcelona was befieged three times, and taken twice, firft by the Englifh, then by the French. In thefe convulsions the migration was great, and the affaftinations were innumerable.
If the returns which have been made to government are compared with the parochial returns of births and burials, we fhall be inclined to fufpecl fome inaccuracy in either one or both, unlefs we take into consideration the numbers of priefts, fol-diers, monks, and nuns, which make thefe proportions differ from thofe which have been found in other countries. The births, on the average of the two years, 1785 K- 4 and
[   '36 1
and 1786, were three thoufand nine hundred and fixty-lix   the burials four thoufand one hundred and ninety-eight; the deaths exceeding annually the births by two hundred and  thirty-one.   This circum-ffance is not uncommon in great cities; but if we multiply the births by twenty-fix, and the burials by thirty-fix, and take the average between them, we fhall have one hundred and twenty-feven thoufand and ninety feven, which is thirty-two thoufand two hundred and feventeen beyond the returns to government.    It muff be con-feffed, that the people have an intereft to conceal their numbers, in order to leflen their contribution.   This being the cafe, perhaps we fhould come nearer to the truth, if we mould fuppofe the population of Barcelona comprehended only thofe who are fettled in a family way, at more than a hundred thoufand fouls.   I fhall however only flate them according to the government returns.
Settled in families - - 94,880 Secular priefls, and fervants of
the church -        - 912
In iq
convents of monks      - 1,212
In
In 18 convents of nuns, and
3 of beatas -        - 654
In the general hofpital, with
foundlings *      - 2>597
In the work-houfes     - -
In prifons, and houfe of correction * M " 337
In fancfuary at the cathedral,
at prefent only      - 8
In garrifon, and military academy - 5,628
Officers of juflice, and inqui-
fitors -       -       - 147
Clergy of St. Philip and others        157
Strangers on board of fhips,
and in the inns, &c.       - 3*44°
Total numbers in Barcelona - 111,410
This account of the population of Barcelona I have from D. Francifco de Za-mora, and it is confirmed by the captain -general; yet both acknowledge, that to, obtain precision is almoft impoffible; and neither of them could give me the numbers confined in the prifons of the inquisition.
The
The wealth which flows into Barcelona is not confined within its walls, but helps to increafe the population of all the fur-rounding villages, which, in the compafs of five leagues, are one hundred and five, all fubject to its jurifdiction, and all partaking of that tranquillity which arifes from energy in a well constituted government.
The induftry which every where appears in Catalonia feems to act with concentrated energy in Barcelona. Early and late, not only is the hammer heard upon the anvil, but every artifh is feen bufily employed, each in his feveral way adding to the general flock.
Two considerable trades in Barcelona are the taylors and the Shoemakers, who are employed in clothing the army, not only in Spain, but over the whole empire. It is curious to obfcrve, that as Scotland is remarkable for breeding gardeners, Ireland chairmen, Switzerland foldiers, fo Catalonia is diftinguifhcd all over Spain for ihoe-makcrs and taylors.
Amongfi: the more considerable trades are the filk-weavers, cutlers, armourers and braziers, carpenters, cabinet-makers, * turners,
t   *39 3
turners, with fringe-makers and embroiderers.   I was particularly Struck with the gun-fmiths, who appear not only numerous and diligent, but uncommonly dexterous in the handling of their tools.   The turners are more than dexterous, making one foot upon occafion ferve the office of a hand to guide the tool, or to fix the poppet-head. The carpenters work in a manner peculiar to this city.   They have neither pit faw, hand faw, carpenter's adze, axe, nor hatchet: to ilit a plank, they fix it in a vice and ufe a fpring faw Strained by a bow, for working which they require two men.   At this we need not wonder much; yet, when wc fee two men employed with the fame tool, that is, with a tool of the fame form, but finer, to make either dove-tail joints for cabinets, or tenants for doors and fafhes, we muSt be allowed to fmile.   If they wifh to fmooth a board, they let it incline upon two wooden trerfels, and hew it acrofs the grain with a cooper's adze, not reflecting than an elastic body cannot refill the Stroke.   It is by no means neceffary that a mechanic fhould be able to explain the laws of motion, but what philofophers
acquire
[   !4° 1
acquire by ftudy he fhould learn by obfer-vation, and with him experience fhould fupply the place of inftinct, and fuperfede the ufe of abstract reafoning.
The chocolate grinders have a method of working peculiar to Spain, and much preferable to that which is ufed in England. Our grinders, depending altogether on mufcular exertion, ufe only the mufcles of one arm, and employ thofe mufcles to the greater! disadvantage; whereas in Bar-celonaj the flab, instead of being flat and horizontal, is curved, forming the fegment of a hollow cylinder, and is inclined to the horizon. The operator kneeling behind this, and leaning over it with a granite roller, which is fomething longer than the flab is wide, grinds the chocolate, ufing both his hands, and preffing it with the weight of his body, as well as by the exertion of his arms. This operator goes from houfe to houfe, becaufe moft. families choofe to have their chocolate ground at home. For the market they have a more expeditious method, and grind the chocolate much finer than it can be made by hand.   For this purpofe five rollers of po-
lifhed
limed fteel, fixed in a frame, and appearing like the fpokes of a wheel, or the radii of a circle, yet each turning round upon its axis, are placed between two mill flones, of which one is immoveable, whilft the other with the rollers receives motion by communication, in common with two other mills of the fame conftruction, from a cogwheel below flairs, which is turned in the ufual method by a mule. The nuts fall through hoppers to feed the mills. In this manner one man will grind three hundred weight of chocolate every day.
The manufacturers of filk, cotton, and wool, adopt all the modern improvements. It is now about a twelvemonth fmce M. Pontet brought to them from France a model of a machine for fpinning cotton better than it can be fpun by hand, fome-thing like that which was invented by Mr. Arkwright. As this machine is well known in England, I fhall not defcribe it. They have here a company, eftabufhed by charter, for fpinning American cotton to fupply the manufactures which ufed to take annually from Malta fpun cotton to the amount of two hundred Uoufand dollars,
or
cr about thirty thoufand pounds fterling* This company enjoys many and valuable privileges. They have fourteen of the Man-chefter machines at work. As the cotton comes over foul, and full of fand, they are obliged to prepare it before they can begin to Work. This they do in a fimple machine conftrucfed for the purpofe. They have a large lanthorn cylinder made with pantile laths, leaving half an inch between lath and lath. This cylinder is inclined to the plain of the horizon, and is immoveable. Within this they leave a portion of a cone, approaching in its form to the containing cylinder, turning on their common axis, and furnifhed with iron fpikes of about five inches in length, placed in a fpiral line, to correfpond with limilar fpikes fixed within the cylinder, in order to teafe and to cleanfe the cotton. The perfon who turns this machine with one hand, feeds it with the other. Government, which is difpofed to give every poiTible encouragement to this branch of manufacture, has granted to the Marquis de Gobert exclufive privileges for his blanket manufacture at Vicq, as a reward for his having planted cotton in the
iiland
ifland of Ivica,and has offered premiums to thofe who fpin the greatefl length of thread from one ounce of cotton. For printing cottons they have the fame flow procefs, which was pra&ifed in England, with ftamps, previous to the ufe of cylinders.
The manufacture which gave me the greatefl pleafure was one of woollen, carried on by Don Vincente Vernis. He employs three hundred and fifty perfons* in making cloth for Spanifh America, which indeed takes mofl of the Barcelona goods, except fome filk fmugglcd with their brandy through Guernfey into England. He has a very compact and elegant machine for winding and twilling worried, in which fourfcore reels are managed by one little girl, whilft another gives motion to the whole, and at the fame time employs herfelf at knitting. This child, fitting on a bench, treads a vertical wheel, which, by means of a wheel with cogs, fixed on the other end of the fame axis, moves the horizontal wheel, and thereby turns the fpindles. When one of the girls is weary the other takes her place.
The manufactures have increafed with
fuch
f 144 ]
fuch rapidity, that the wages of labour for all kinds of artifts in the city and the environs have advanced to two piftreens, or one milling and eight-pence a day, for which they work only feven hours. The common labourer will earn fourteen pence in winter, but in harveft twenty. Thefe gains, however, are not out of proportion to the value of provisions, as regulated by the magiftrate. Mutton is fold for ten pence the pound of thirty-fix ounces, beef for feven-pence, and bread at prefent for feven farthings the pound of twelve ounces; lodging for a fmall family cofts about two guineas a year.
The mechanics here allow, that to maintain a family with tolerable comfort, their gains mull be one hundred livres Catalan for each, which is nearly eleven pounds fterling.
As fuel is not eafily procured, they ufe the utmoft frugality in drefling their little dinners, feldom indulging themfelves with either roaft or boiled meat, but mostly ftewing it in pitchers over their fogon or little furnace.
Nothing can more diftinctly mark the 4 character
[   HS ]
character of this people and the rigid patrimony which accompanies the induftry of Catalans, than a trade by which many contrive to obtain a maintenance for them-felves and for their families. This occupation is to make fogons, which they do for lefs than a penny fterling each. Their manner of conftructing them is fomewhat fmgular. They take any bottomlefs pot, without enquiring for what ufe or purpofe this pot has been before employed. They line it within, and cover the outride with well-tempered clay, then putting three iron bars in the bottom, and three knobs by way of feet, with three more to fupport an olla or puchero, the whole is finifhed; and in this behold the poor man's kitchen. The puchero is fimply an earthen pitcher, in which the meat is ftewed, and hence the common invitation to dinner, even in the houfes of wealthy citizens, is to partake of their puchero, or, as we fay, to take pot luck.
The foundery for brafs cannon is magnificent, and worthy of mfpection. It is impoffibb any where to fee either finer metal, or work executed in a neater and
Vol. I. L more
more perfect manner. Their method of boring was invented by Maritz, a Swifs. Near two hundred, twenty-four pounders, are finished every year, befides mortars and field-pieces.
The Stationers in Barcelona have a method of ruling books for merchants, than which nothing can be either more Simple, expeditious, or exact. For this purpofe they have a frame with bars, moveable in grooves, which are readily fixed at the distances required.
In every country a traveller can pafs through, he will find fome mechanical contrivances, fome modes of expediting work, which are of late invention, or at lean: new to him; and I am inclined to think, that no country, if thoroughly examined, would furnifh more than Spain. This, however, I conclude, not only from thofe transient obfervations which I have had opportunities of making, but from thofe of a moft excellent mechanic, M. Betancourt, a Spaniard, who has fought out ingenious artists in their garrets all over Europe, and who, I am perfuaded, not from national prejudice, but from intimate knowledge
and
[   H7 ]
and conviction, places his own countrymen among the foremolt in fertility of imagination and mechanical invention.
The infpecfion of their gun-locks gave me peculiar fatisfaction.   In thofe which are made in England, the tumbler, unlefs cafe-hardened, is apt to wear, and to go oft* upon the half cock; and even when executed in the moft perfect manner, how many accidents have happened in going through a hedge; but in the Spanifti gun-lock, the tumbler, if I may be allowed to call it fuch, being of a different conftruction, is free from thefe imperfections.   I fhall not here attempt any verbal defcription of this excellent piece of mechanifm, but hereafter I may, perhaps, engrave my drawings, and give them to the public.
The commerce of Barcelona is considerable, notwithstanding the many impediments, natural and political, which have checked, and ftill continue to reftrain its progrefs. This city has no navigable river, and feems to have been built in its prefent fituation only for the fake of deriving protection from the high mountain which commands it. The bafon is formed by a E 2 moh
[   '48 ]
mole, and is fufnciently capacious, but there is only twelve feet water on the bar. The quay is well conflructed, but merchants are not permitted to land their goods im~ diately on it, leu: the boatmen mould want employment. All ihips which are admitted to prattique, even though they mould be forced in by florins, pay a duty, which is called Lluda; and, fhould they be obliged to land the cargo, on refhipping, they have oppreflive duties to difcharge.
The province is indebted to Count Campomanes for the removal of the worfl impediment to manufacturers that ever was invented by the blind avarice of fovereigns, at once to feize a revenue and to cut off the fource from which it fhould arife. Although abolifhed, the Bolla deferves to be recorded for the honour of the king, who, from principles worthy to be adopted by all the governments in Europe, had the wifdom to revoke it. Previous to the abolition of this vexatious tax, the weaver could not begin a piece of cloth without fending for the administrator of the bolla to affix his leaden mark, and when he had finifhed it, he was to do the fume. When
difpofeo*
C   H9 ]
difpofed of, it was neceffary to have another leaden feal, attended with a certificate ; after which, when fold by retail, the portion cut off was to be fealed with wax, and the end of the piece, from whence this fmall quantity had been taken, was to be fealed again with lead. The tax was fifteen per cent.
We wonder at the ftrange abfurdlty of this impolition ; but, let bur own government reflect, that the fovereigns of Catalonia had not the monopoly of folly. Spain may with good reafon fay to England,
Cum tua pervideas oculis malalippus inundtis, Cur in amicorum vitiistam cernis acutum.
Hor. Sat. lib. i. fat. 3.
Brandy, wine, nuts, almonds, raifins, and cork, are fhipped at different places on the coaft for the merchants who refide in Barcelona. The wines are Mataro, Villanova, Sitges, Vails, and Granatche. The price varies according to the feafon, but when it is higheff, we may reckon Mataro at fix-teen dollars, or forty-eight fhillings, the hogfhead, including the Spaniih duties; Villanova, fifteen dollars j Granatche, forty.
L 3 AH
[   '5° 3
All thefe are red. The following white wines are, Sitges, fifty-four; Vails, twenty dollars; but the common price is twelve dollars and an half per hogfhead for both the Mataro and Villanova.
When brandy is deareft, it is fold, duty free, on board, at 57 dollars, or £.8. lis. the four cargas or pipe of 124 gallons Englifh, Hollands proof, or is. 4^/. per gallon; but it is fometimes fold at I od. Of late considerable quantities of brandy have been embarked at Barcelona, where they may be depofitcd from the neighbouring country, without being liable to the heavy municipal duties levied at the gates of the city on provisions of every kind, and from the impofition of which, brandy is much dearer in Barcelona than in Guernfey.
Befides the articles above enumerated, the merchants export wrought filks, printed cottons, woollen goods, fmall arms, and Specie; this laft is contraband. Catalonia furnishes thirty-five thoufand pipes of brandy, and two thoufand of wine, befides thirty thoufand bags of nuts, containing three bufhels each, at twenty Shillings the bag.   Of the above, about four thoufand
pipes
[   «5i ]
pipes of brandy, and fome filk, go to Guernfey and Alderney, and the reft to France, all to be fmuggled into England.
The cork bark, which makes a principal export of this province, was for a time prohibited, under the idle notion that the inhabitants might manufacture it at home; not reflecting that the Englifh cutters could get a fupply of cork in Portugal and France.
The imports are corn, fifh, woollen goods, hardware, and oil of vitriol. The articles prohibited are beer, cyder, lead, hofe, haberdafhery, rnullins, and cottons; but of the two laft, immenfe quantities arc fmuggled in.
Wine, entering the city, pays a town duty of fifty reals per carga of twenty-eight gallons. Wheat and barley, entering by fea, pay, if for the public bake-houfe, one and an half per cent; if on a Spanifh merchant's account, three per cent; and if on account of alien merchants, four and an half per cent. This duty was recovered formerly for the bifhop; but at prefent the L 4. king
[   «5* j
king takes a part of it on his own account.
Cloth pays from one hundred twenty-feven to three hundred fifty-feven marave-dis the vara.
Leather pays eighteen maravedis per pound. Hardware from thirty to fifty per cent. 3 and fifh, from thirty to feventy per cent, on the prime coil. Wine exported pays five per cent, if on foreign bottoms, but if on Spanifh, it is free. Nuts pay three fols eight deniers per fack; of thefe, twenty thoufand are for the Englifh market.
About one thoufand veifels enter the port of Barcelona yearly, and of thefe one half are Spanifh, one hundred Englifh, one hundred and twenty French, and Sixty are Danes.
The confidence of Catalans on the inter-cefiion of the faints has at all periods been a fource of confolation to them, but upon fome occafions, has betrayed them into mifchief. Every company of artifans, and every fhip which fails, is under the immediate protection of fome patron. Befides
folio
I 153 ]
folio volumes, which teftify the numberlels miracles performed by our lady of Mont-ferrat, every fubordinate flirine is loaded with votive tablets.   Were this perfuafion of the kindnefs and power of departed faints productive only of  gratitude and hope, it were cruelty to rob them of their treafure; but, unhappily, it has been the parent of prefumption-; and among the merchants has brought many wealthy families to want.   The companies of infur-ance in the laft war, having each of them its favourite faint, fuch as San Ramon de Penaforte, la Virgen de la Merced, and others, affociated in form by the articles of partnership, and named in every policy of infurance, and having with the molt fcru-pulous exactnefs allotted   to them their correfpondent dividend, the fame as to any other partner, they concluded, that with fuch powerful afTociates it was not poflible for them to Suffer loSs.   Under this per-SuaSion they ventured, about the year 1779, to inSure the French Weft Indiamen at fifty per cent, when the Englifh and the Dutch had refufed to do it at any premium, and indeed when moft of the fhips
were
were already in the Englifh ports. By this fatal stroke all the infuring companies except two were ruined; yet, notwithstanding this misfortune, this fuperftition remains in force.
In Catalonia as in France, with which this province was formerly connected, accounts are kept in livres, fols, and deniers; twelve deniers make a fol, and twenty fols a livre. Thus far all is plain and eafy, but when we are to reckon by the money of this province, nominal and real, nothing can be more perplexing. If we reckon the pefo or current dollar at three millings fterling, the hard dollar will be four, the current piftole, twelve; and the pistole of gold, fifteen millings.
But for greater perfpicuity, I Shall reduce them to a table, reminding the reader that in proportion as the exchange varies, additions or Subtractions muff be made.
t
CURRENT
CURRENT COINS of BARCELONA,
Maravedi, of which 4 make a Quarto, 18 a Col. Half Quarto of 2 Maravedis.
Quarto of 4 Maravedis, worth ^ of a penny fterling. Double Quarto, worth £ of a penny.
The above are of copper.   Thofe which follow are of filver.
Denomination.
Quarter Piftreen Half Piftreen -Piftreen
i Pillar ditto -i Pillar ditto -Pillar Piftreen -Double Piftreen -Pefo Duro, Hard Dollar    - -
Value in	Value in	
Quartos.	Sols.	Deniers
8 a -	i	
17	- 3	9
34	- 7	6
10 | -		4
21	- 4	8
42	- 9	4
68	- 15	0
170	- 37	6
Value fterling.
2 £i
414 9& 3 6
o
7*
4     C ^4
The GOLD  COINS are,
Durillo, worth •i Doblon new Doblon, ditto Double Doblon Doblon de a Ocho -4 Doblon, old -Doblon, old Double Doblon, ditto Doblon de a Ocho, d°.
5 Piilreens 10 ditto 20 ditto 40 ditto 80 ditto 10 and 3 d*. 20 and 6 d*. 40   1 1 80   2 6
Liv. Sol. Den. 1 19 IO
3 15 7 10 o
15 o
30 o
3 IS 7 10
*5 *
30 2
o 4 o 8 o 16 j j 2
3 4 o 8 o 16
4 12 3 4
a.
3t3t °!
°T I*
3 i
*i 3
6
The Piftreen being reckoned at 4 Reals vellon, of 8| Quarts each all over Spain, except in Catalonia, where 4 Reals vellon are valued at only 7 fols 5^ deniers. Piftreens brought from Spain into Catalonia, gain | per cent.
f  *57 ]
The IMAGINARY MONEY of CATALONIA,
Denier Sol
Livre
Real ardite Pefo.cur1. Dollar Ducat
Current Piftole -Piftole of gold -
Deniers. 12
Sols. 20 2 28
3*  7 A
Dollar'!.
4, or 112
5, or 140
o 2 o o
0 3 o 4
O 12
o 15
Eight Deniers are equal to 3 Quartz, Spanifh Money.
To reduce Pefos into Livres, multiply by feven, and divide by five; or add \ of the Pclbs.
To reduce Livres into Pclos, multiply by five, and divide by feven.
MEASURES in CATALONIA.
Twelve Cortans make one Quartera, which is two Bufhels, Englifh mcafure.
Sixteen Cortans make a Carga of wine or brandy, which is about thirty Gallons Englifh,
WEIGHTS.
Twelve Ounces make a Pound. Twenty-fix Pounds one Arroba.
Four Arrobas one Quintal, which is ninety-three Poundy Englifh.
One hundred and twenty-five Pounds make one hundred and twelve Pounds Englifh.
The
The building of Barcelona, according to hiftorians, was about two hundred and thirty years prior to the chriftian era, and three hundred fubfequent to the firft efta-blifhment of the Carthaginians in Spain. It is faid to have been called Barkiuo hf its founder, in honour of his family, and to have derived from the Jews the commercial fpirit which it has conftantly retained.
It has feen many revolutions, and fullered much by every change.   It was early
delivered from the dominion A. D. 805.   of the Moors> and raifed into
a county, paying homage to the kings of France, till they, unable to protect it, re-A D  8        ngned their claims, leaving x\.   .   74.   t-^e citizens to their own exertions for the vindication of their freedom. From this time their ftruggles, for more than a century, were inceffant with the Moors: but, in the end, the 99 r   crefcent yielded to the crofs, and for many generations Barcelona was independent on its neighbours. Towards the clofe of the twelfth century it was annexed, by the marriage of its count, to the crown of Arragon; and, at a fubfequent
period,
period, by the union of Ferdinand and Ifa-bella, it became part of the Spanifh monarchy.
Whilft the fucceflion was difputed between the two houfes of Auftria and Bourbon, on the death of Charles
TT    c c   •    4.1 • A. D. 1700.
II. or bpain, this city was '
of too much importance to the contending powers to remain long in the quiet poilef-fion of either.   The French were mailers of the city when the carl of Peterborough arrived upon the coaft with his little army, a force too inconfiderablc to attempt a fiege with any profpeel of fuccefs.   But as this gallant oilicer had that which fuppli.es the want of more numerous armies, an imagination fertile in refources, his friends never gave up their hopes of fuccefs, till they faw him re-embark his troops, and prepare for failing.   The moment of defpair to them was to the befieged the reviving of their confidence, and his departure the fig-nal of feftivity to thofe who had never been free from apprehenlions whilft he remained before the city.   He failed; but in the night he difembafked his troops, and before the morning he got poileiiion of Mon-
§ joucii;
jouch ; after a few days more he was matter of the city. In this arduous undertaking he was well fupportcd by brigadier Stanhope and Mr. Methuen, whofe prudence, fidelity, and valour procured for them thofe honours which they have transmitted to their families.
Gerona, Tarragona, Tortofa, and Leri-da, followed the example of the capital, and declared for Charles. Wherever the earl of Peterborough turned his arms, victory declared for him; it was Sufficient for him to mew himfelf, and every city offered him its keys. Whilft he was in Valencia, the enemy laid fiege to Barcelona; but he haftened to its relief, and compelled them to retire, not only from before the city, but
out of the province, al-May i. 1706.   though he had onJy a few
troops, and they had thirty thoufand men. When he was fuperfeded, a feries of mif-fortunes too well known haftened the fall of the arch-duke's dominions y and the citizens of Barcelona, after an obftinate re-iiftance, opening their gates to Philip, fub-mitted, though reluctantly, to bear the yoke.
A fpa-
f   id ]
A fpacious and airy walk round the walls,with the inclofed gardens, contributes towards making Barcelona one of the moil delightful cities in the world. No one, who has been there in the fpring, will be ever weary of expatiating on the pleafures he enjoyed.
It is fituated in a plain, open to the fouth eafl, but protected from the well by Monjuich, and from the north by a chain of mountains which are terminated to the weft by Mont S. Pedro Martyr. The foil, from fix to ten feet deep, is clay.
In this plain, near to the city, is a little ftream* which, in fummer, ferves for watering the country -y but to the weflward, beyond Monjuich, is the Lobregat, the largeft river between the Ter, which runs by Gerona, and the Segre, which, rifing in the Pyrenees, empties itfelf into the Ebro.
One of the mountains oppofite to the city, called S. Jeronimo, is famous for its convent and for its gardens, which are fpacious, fhady, and well-watered. At the bottom of the hill is a quarry, in which the ftone evidently contains much calcareous Vol. I, M matter.
t 162 3
matter. Higher up is granite of aloofe texture:, crumbling and decompoiing,whilft the middle and the top to the fouth, and hanging to the fea, is altogether fchift; but beyond*the fummit, defcending to the north, there is only granite. We muft always remember, that in the natural fituation the granite is covered by fchift, and the fchift by calcareous rock. From this elevated fpot Montferrat appears magnificent,, and feems to be within two hours walk. The pro-fpecT; every way is pleafing and extenfive.
On the fides of this mountain they have quarries of limeftone and marble.
My diftant excurfions were referved for holidays, when the conful was at leifure to go with me. In one of thefe we vifited Mont S. Pedro Martyr, from which you command a more extenfive profpect than from S. Jeronimo. To the north of this ftands Montferrat, and beyond it the Pyrenees appear finking in the horizon, and looking only like a wall of mow. Turning to the fouth and to the eaft, we fee the whole extent of the rich vale which fupplies the city, and the numerous adjacent villages j and beyond this, the Mediterranean, bounding
t 3C3 )
ing the diftant view. To the weftward flows the Lobregat, defcending through the gorges of the mountains, from which it receives innumerable torrents, and having fpent its fury, moves on ilowly to the fea, winding its meandering courfe through the extended plain which itfelf has formed.
The bafe and body of this mountain is granite; but as you rife towards the fum-mit, you find the proper covering of fchift breaking into thin white flakes, and, with the vitriolic acid, forming alum. It is evidently from the diflblution of the fchift, which every where abounds on the tops of thefe high mountains, that the fubjacent plain is covered to fo great a depth with clay, not merely with fuch as the brick-makers prefer, obftinate and fterile, but fuch as, by the mixture of calcareous matter and of fand, approaching to a marie, is eafily broken by the plough, and bears the moft luxuriant crops.
Thefe mountains are cultivated, and where the plough cannot go, even to their Summits, they are covered with vines.
Here, for the firft time in Spain, I found M 2 the
t   1*4 ]
the quercus coccifera, which bears the kermesj but on thefe no traces of that little animal appear.
We dined at a country houfe belonging to the Dominicans, to which thofe fathers go when they wifh to breathe a purer air, or to retire for a feafon from the reftraints of the monaftic order. Here they have a hall of near fixty feet, many good bedrooms, and a gallery of ninety feet in length by eighteen wide, open to the eaft and to the fouth, commanding at once the plain, the mountains, and the fea, with the city, fome villages, a few convents, and numberlefs farm-houfes fcattered in the valley. Above and below them, on the declivities, are ftretched their vineyards, fur-nifhing them with raifins and excellent wine. They received us with hofpitality, and had we been inclined to lfay, they would have given us beds. Here we remained until the Setting fun reminded us that we mult mount our horfes and return.
I have feldom quitted any fpot with more regret; and had I not foon after left Barcelona, I mould have chofen this
for
for my retreat, in which, with the affirmance of a father, I might have learned the Spanifh language.
Having furveyed thefe elevated regions, which bound the profpect to the north, I was defirous of inveftigating with more minute attention the nature of Monjuich, which, hanging over the fea, commands the cityto the well:.   For this purpofe I walked upon the beach, clambered on the cliffs among the rocks, and either on horfe -back  or   on   foot I croffed its fummit in all directions, that I might examine it in every part.   The bafe and body of this mountain is fand, ftone, or filicious grit, of a fine grain, and either white, red, or gray, with fome little fprinkling of mica.   The fummit, in fome places, does not differ from the bafe, but in others it is covered with pudding ftone, with fchift, with clay, or with fuller's earth; and, which is moft worthy of attention, both the fchift and the clay carry foflil fhells.
If I might venture to hazard a conjecture, fupported by thefe facts, and by others fimilar to thefe, I fhould be much inclined to think that this whole mountain
M 3 k
is a depofit, and that the grit is only the decompofed granite, either of thofe mountains, of which I have given the defcrip-tion, and which is of three fpecies, white, red, and gray, or elfe of fome other mountains, which exift no more.
This fubject will be refumed when I come to treat of the environs of Salamanca; and I hope that the theory here deli^ vered will then not only be confirmed, but help to throw a light upon fome parts of natural hiftory, which are now obfeure.
If my conjecture be well founded, Monjuich muft not merely have been covered with the fea, and this fact is beyond a doubt, but it muft have been relatively lower, and much lower than the granite mountains by whofe fpoils it was com-pofed, being accumulated at the conflux of two or more currents, as we fee in miniature in torrents, or at the junction of two ftreams. Whoever is well acquainted with the external appearance, and with the internal ftructure of the country near Southampton, will fee a ftriking example of this accumulation, not from matter brought by either of its rivers, for their beds are
too
too low for fuch an operation, but by the action of currents, when the furrounding hills of Suffex, Wiltfhire, Dorfetfhire, and the ifle of Wight, were under the furface of the fea, as we muft conclude from the fofiil ihells found in the chalk on eveiy one of thefe hills.
From Monjuich we look down on the •extenfive plain formed by the Lobregat, which appears fertile, but by no means inviting, becaufe every thing in it has a gloomy afpect, and the inhabitants have all the tokens either of agues, of dropfy, or of jaundice.
The fortifications on this mountain are reckoned perfect in their kind; they are highly hniihed, and for beauty do credit to the nation. Thefe, in addition to the ftrong works round the city, and the citadel, muft render Barcelona untenable by an enemy.
The appellation of Monjuich has never been properly explained. They anciently wrote Monjouy, but the pronunciation is Monjuiqu, which may polTibly mean mountain of the Jews. Certain it is, that the Jews were numerous in this part of
M 4 Spain,
Spain, and that on the hill looking towards the city there are monumental infcriptions on large hewn rocks in Hebrew characters; many of the words are fcarcely legible, but by thofe which can be read, that fpot appears to have been the burying place of the Jews.
The country around Barcelona is well cultivated, and abounds with vines, figs, olives, oranges, filk, flax, hemp, algaroba fruit, wheat, barley, oats, rye, beans, peas, vetches, Indian corn, millet, with all kinds of lettuce, cabbages, colliflowers, and other vegetables for the fervice of the kitchen.
To plough their land they ufe only two oxen, or one ftrong mule, and no boy to drive. Their plough is light, and well contrived: the beam is long, and fixed to the yoke, if they have two oxen; or if they ufe one mule, they fix it to the collar by fhafts; for flirring they ufe no coulter, fin, nor mould-board, but in its ftead two ears for breaking up their land; and when the foil is ftiff, they drop the ears, and take coulter, fin, and mould-board, which they put on or off in three minutes time. They
have
have two methods of fetting the plough up or down, fo as to go deeper or ihal-lower at  pleafure,  notwithftanding the greatefl: variety in the tenacity of the foil. At the extremity of the beam there are three holes, about four inches apart, and by one or other of thefe they fix it to the yoke.   If they want to fet the plough deeper into the ground, they put the pin through the furthefl: hole, neareft to the extremity or point of the beam; but when they want the plough to go more lhallow, they put the pin through the hole which is furthefl: from the point.   When the land is fo ftiff that they cannot by thefe means keep the plough fhallow enough, they have an eafy method to fink the beam, or in other words, to raife the point of the fhare, which a fight of my drawings will explain.
It is impoffible to pay more attention to the conffruction and ufe of ploughs, for all the different purpofes of hufbandry, than they pay to this important fubjecf. in the country about Barcelona. The harrows have iron furniture. As for rollers, they are not to be expected where wood is fo very
fcarce.
t   i7° 1
Scarce. To break the clods they ufe a board, on which a boy ftanding drives the mule. Their hoe is almoft as wide and as heavy as our fpades, but fet in fuch a manner as to form an angle of about thirty degrees with the handle, fo that a man muft ftoop very low to ufe it. For my part I mould prefer a fpade; but this, perhaps, may be the prejudice of education. The noria muft be confidered as one of their implements in hufbandry. Is is here con-itructed fomewhat differently from that which I have before defcribed. The noria of Barcelona is the original chain pump, or at leaft its parent, as having fuggefted the idea on which the chain pump is formed, and from its fimplicity appears to have derived its origin from the moft remote antiquity; it confifts of a band or girdle palling over a fprocket wheel long enough to reach eighteen inches, or two feet below the furface of water in a well. All round this band, at the diftance of about fifteen inches, are fixed jars of earthen ware, which, as it turns, take up water from the well, and pour it into a ciftern fitted to receive it.   A little afs
going
I   17' ]
going round his walk, with eafe turns a trundle, which gives motion to a cogwheel fixed on the fame axis with the wheel on which the band is hung, and with which it turns, thus  producing a conftant and confiderable fupply of water at a fmall expence, and with very little friction.   As the air would obftruct the entrance of water into thefe jars or bottles, each jar has a little orifice in its bottom, through which the air efcapes, but then water follows it, and a certain quantity falls back into the well.   It is true, as the jars rife in one ftrait line, the water which runs out of the fuperior jar is caught by that which is immediately below it; yet frill there is a lofs ; and befides this inconvenience, the whole quantity is raifed higher than the refervoir, at leaft by the diameter of the fprocket wheel, becaufe it is only in their defcent that the jars are emptied. The chain pump boafts undoubtedly many and great advantages over this machine; yet the chain pump itfelf is not free from imperfections.   If the valves are not well fitted to the cylinder through which they move, much water will fail back j if they * are
are well fitted, the friction of many valves muff be confiderable, befides the friction of the chain round the fprocket wheels, and of the wheels themfelves. Chain pumps require a great number of men to work them, not in the open air, but under deck, where the heat is great, and the fatigue, in-fufferable. The preference, therefore, which has been given to chain pumps over thofe which wrork by the preffure of the atmo-Sphere, muft have arifen from this one cir-cumflance, that they have been found lefs liable to choke.
In point of friction, of coolnefs, and of cheapnefs, the fucking pump has fo evidently the advantage over the chain pump, that it will not fail to gain the preference, whenever it mall be no longer liable to be choked with gravel and with chips. Many and various have been the expedients thought of by mechanics to improve this pump the one which caught attention and was adopted in our navy has, upon trial, been found defective. This was, in-Head of common valves with joints, to have cylinders with holes in the fides, but clofed at top, moving in brafs boxes, and known
by
[   r73 ]
by the name of canifter valves. Thefe1 have been found of all others the moil; liable to jam, and to become immovable by the introduction of fand between the canifter and box.   For this the public is indebted to Mr. Cole, who having acquired fame by executing the improvements of the chain pump invented by Captain Ben-tinck, readily obtained the credit, which was by no means due to him, for more than common ingenuity in this invention of his own.   In the model, and with clean water, his experiments fucceeded, and gained the approbation of the admiralty board, who immediately gave orders for their introduction in our mips of war.   To this hafty approbation has been attributed the lofs of the Centaur, and of fome other (hips returning with her from the Weft Indies.   It is, indeed, impofhble to fay how many mips have perifhed in confe-quence of this change in the construction of our pumps, as the moft fatal accident which can happen to a velTel under the preffure of a ftorm is the choking of her pumps.   The admiralty board can never be too cautious in the examination of improvements,
provements, nor too much upon their guard how they give credit to certificates in favour of any which they have ordered to be tried. In the new edition of Chambers's Dictionary, lately given to the public by Doctor Rees, we have a defcription of Captain Bentinck's chain pump, the excellence of which will never be called in queltion; whilft credulity itfelf can by no •means find it eafy to believe the report of experiments tried on board the Seaford frigate, and figned by Rear Admiral Sir John Moore, twelve captains, and eleven lieutenants of his Majefly's navy. It is ftated, that with the old chain pump feven men were feventy-fix feconds railing-one .tun of water, whereas with the new pump two men raifed the fame quantity in fifty-five. Had Sir Thomas Slade, who was then furveyor of the navy, and Captain Bentinck, been upon better terms, this report had certainly been drawn up in a manner mere agreeable to truth, or at leaft the experiments would have been conducted with that degree of caution which would have done more credit to the integrity of thofe who were to fign, and to the understanding
[   *75 1
Handing of thofe who were to receive the report. Notwithstanding the acknowledged and moil undoubted fuperiority of the new pump over that which had been previoufly ufed, it mull have been evident to every one competent to judge between them, that this trial was not conducted fairly.
The imperfection of fucking pumps is prevented by a late improvement, which bids fair for univerfal approbation. Mr. Taylor, of Southampton, the fame gentleman to whom not only England but all Europe is indebted for blocks, which, by long experience, have been found perfect both in point of ftrength and of prompt obedience; at the requeft of fome naval gentlemen, applied himfelf to the confederation of this matter, and foon found a remedy, which, in   all probability, will-bring this pump nearer to perfection than any which has been hitherto employed* He began with taking away the lower valve, together with its box, and in its place he fubftituted a ball, falling down into a part of the fame chamber in which the upper pilton works, contracted for that purpofe; but as it was not eafily extracted,
inftead
t   >7* ]
inftead of this, he took the fegment of a fphere, and in its centre he riveted a pendulum. By this fimple contrivance, the chips and gravel pafs without inconvenience, and the pendulum valve falls back into its place. Nothing can be mere pro-mifing in its appearance; it remains for time and for experience to confirm the judgment which has been formed of this improvement.
At Barcelona, fome gentlemen who excel in mechanical invention, fenfible of the peculiar imperfections of the noria, have ftudied how to avoid thefe in a machine which they have constructed, and which is not altogether void of merit. The beam, to which the traces of the horfe are fixed, is near eight feet long, of confequence the diameter of the horfe-walk is iixteen feet, and that of the horizontal lantern or trundle is near four feet. A vertical wheel moved by this is of the fame diameter, and gives motion to a vertical lantern or trundle of two feet feven inches, and thereby to a water wheel of ten feet and an half diameter. The movements in this machine are too complicated, and thereby
both
both the expence and the friction are in-creafed. Befides this, the horfe walk is too fmall, and the beam being behind the horfe, inftead of being placed over his fhoulders, the line of draught makes with it an angle of forty-five degrees, and thereby one half of his force is loft. Thefe miftakes are not uncommon, and for that reafon only they are mentioned in this place. That which fixed my attention, was the contraction of the water-wheel. It is a cylinder divided into two portions by a feptum parallel to its fides. In each portion there are chambers formed by four partitions, which make a fquare whofe angles touch the circumference of the wheel, fo that each chamber is the ferment of a cylinder. The partitions on one fide of the feptum are not parallel to thofe on the other fide, but are placed in a different direction, fo that when of thofe which are on one fide two are perpendicular, thofe on the other fide make an angle of forty-live degrees with the horizon. In each of thefe chambers there is an opening to receive the water of one quarter of the arch. A leather collar embraces the wheel, where Vol. I. N it
t 178 ]
it discharges the water, to prevent waftc. The peculiar excellence of this wheel is, that no water is loll after it has been received into the chambers; but then with all this machinery the water is raifed lefs than eight feet high. Round all the re-fervoirs they conftruct a parapet wall for waibing linen, as I have dcfcribed already.
For hemp they have a machine fimilar in its form to that which is ufed in all our fugar iflands for bruifing canes, but differing in its materials, and in the pofition of the whole.    Here they place the three fluted rollers, made of oak, one above the other, caufmg them to act upon the hemp as it paries between them, not only by their weight, but by the preffure of two itrong fprings.    A mule turns a wheel, which giving  motion   to  the  loweft cylinder, makes the uppermofl revolve in a direction oppofite to its own; and as behind them  there is  the fection  of a drum, or hollow cylinder, to flop the hemp, and direct it in its return, that which has paf-fed between the uppermofl and the middle roller comes back  bruifcd between the middle and under rollers.
The
[   J79 ]
The common courfe of hufbandry about Barcelona is wheat, which being ripe in June, is immediately fucceeded by Indian corn, hemp, millet, cabbage, kidney beans, or lettuce.   The fecond year thefe fame crops fucceed each other as before; the next year they take barley, beans, or vetches, which coming off the ground before midfummcr, are followed, as in the former years, by other crops; only changing them according to the feafon, fo as to have on the fame fpot the greatefl poffible variety.
The common produce of wheat is ten for one, but in the rainy feafons they get fifteen; all thefe crops are watered, when water is to be had, either by fome fpring or by the noria.
April 24, they were ploughing for hemp, which they expected to cut the middle of July; after which, they propofed to put in turneps, parfnips, and lettuce, for the autumnal market. The land will bear flax, but they find hemp more profitable.
I was much flruck with their mode of filling the dung cart. For this purpofe, they have three men, one in the cart, one
N 2 on
on the heap, and one between them t« carrv the little bafket, after the latter with his three pronged fork has rilled it. They Smiled at my fimplicity in thinking, that if all had prongs the cart would be filled much quicker; and it is only for expedition that they have hit upon this method.
In the country, at fome diftance from the city, they pay for wages in hufbandry, from ten pence to one milling fterling a day for men, and half as much for women; but carpenters will get hxteen pence, and mafons two millings.
The rigid parfimony of Catalans appears in their fcanty provifion for the day. When they carry their little bafket to the market, together with their beef and garden ftufF, they bring home two deniers worth of charcoal. This circumftance is fo cha-racrcriftic, that when they would reproach the rich mifer for his penury, they fay that notwithstanding his opulence he ftill continues to fend to market for dos dineros de Carbon. Twelve deniers make a penny.
Their drefs is lingular. They have red
night-
night-caps over a black net which receives the hair, and hangs low down upon their backs. Their waiftcoat or fhort jacket, with filver buttons, is clofe, and bound with a long filk fam, paffing many times round their loins, and then tucked in.
In Spain, Italy, and Africa, all the inhabitants bind themfelves up with fames, as a preventative of ruptures. Certain it is, that thefe are very common; but when we confider that the nations which ufe no faihes are not much fubject to ruptures, we may perhaps be led to attribute this accident to relaxation, which muff be promoted by the very precaution which they have adopted to prevent it.
Their breeches are commonly black velvet; they have feldom any ftockings, and findals fupply the place of fhoes.
No people upon earth are more patient of fatigue, or, travelling on foot, can out-ffrip them. Their common journey is forty miles, but upon occahon they will run threefcore. For this reafon they make good guides and muleteers; being employ^ ed as fuch all over Spain, and trufkd
N 3 without
without referve, on account of their integrity.
The environs of Barcelona are friendly to botanical purfuits, and the city is not deftitute of fome who cultivate this fcience. I received much amftancc from Don Ignatio Ameller, an apothecary, whofe library would do honour to the nrff bota-nift in Europe. To him I frequently recurred, and found him converfant with the belt authors who had written on this fub-ject. There is alio a young man, whofe employment is to coiled: medical plants for the apothecaries; in him I found an excellent difciple of Linneus, and collected from his hortus ficcus fuch plants as I had not met with in my walks, all arranged according to their clafles. Among thefe I found the following: Canna; Salicornia; Blitum; Valeriana; Veronica, both the vulgaris and the becabunga; Syringa; Li-guftrum; Olea; Phillyrea fl. lut; Rofma-nnus; Salvia of feveral fpecies; Jafminum; Gratiola; Pinguicula; Verbena; Lycopus; Jufficia; Crocus fativus; Nardus montana; Ixia; Gladiolus communis; Iris vulg. flor.
Cerulco,
t 183 ]
Ceruleo, cc paluftris fl.  luteo & fetU difiima, with the Iris bulbpfa flore varie-gante; Cyperus rotundus; Plalaris; Arun-do; Gramen ofricim dactylis; Holofleum; Scabiofa vulg.; Scabiofa ipccias; Globula-ria Dipfacus iilv. Galium; Gallium lute-um 6c album; Rubia tinctorum; Cruci-anella; Plantago major vulg.; Coronopus vulg.; Pfyllium; Pimpinella; Cornus; Al-chemilla; Cufcuta; Potamogeton ; Ilex; Heliotropon ;   Myofotis ; Lithofpermum; Anchufa;   Buglofia vulg.; CynoglolTum vulgare;  Onofma;   Echiumj Afperugo; Confolida major;   Pulmo^aria maculata; Borago hortenlis; Cortufa; Primula yens* &  Auricula;  Verbafcum; Campanula; Convolvulus marinus; Scammonea; Pole-monium; Cyclaminus; Anagallis fl. rub.; Lyflmachia fl. lut.; Lonicera; Ribes; Co-ris; Phyfallis; Atropa Hyofcyamus j Cap-facum;   Mirabilis;   Datura;   Solanum; Glycypitros; Lycoperflcon;  Melongena ; Rhamnus; Frangula;  Euonimus; Neri-um ; Vinca; Afclepias; Salfola ; Ulmus ; Herniaria;   Gentiana major; Ccntaurum minus; Echinophora; Eryngium; Sanicu-la; Bupleurum; Daucus; Caucalis j Am-N 4 mis
mi; Bunium; Conium; Apium ; Atha-manta; Crithmum; Lacerpitum ; Sphon-dyiium; Ligufticum; Impcratorium ; Angelica ; Cuminum; Smyrniurn; Thapfia; Anethum; Ferula; Sium; Oenauthe; Co-riandrum ; Chcerophyllum; Carum Scan-dia; Rhus; Tinus; Sambucus; Parnaffia; Linum; Drofera; Statice; Lilium cand.; Li-liumfl. nutante hemerocallis; Lilium fl. nut. martagons fl. purp. Lilium radice afpho-dcli; Pancratium; Amaryllis; Allium fyl-veflre; Porruni; Cepa alba; Leucojum bul-bofum; Ornithogalum fl. lutea; Narciflus 5 Scilla; Tulipa; Afphodelus; Lilium Con-val; Hyacinthus fl. cerul; Corona im-perialis; Fritillaria; Erythronium; Afpara-gus; Juncus; Tradefcanfia; Aloe; Bcrberis; Lapathum acutum; Rumex; Colchicum; Alifma; iEfculus; Tropceolum ; Epilobi-um; iEnothera Daphne; Polygonium; Fa-gopyrum; Biflorta; Perflcaria; Herba Paris ; Laurus nobilis; Rheum; Butomusj Senna; Caffia; Dictamnus fraxinella; Ru-ta; Tribulus; Melia; Arbutus uva urfi; Rhododendrum; Pyrola ; Saponaria ; Saxi-fraga; Dianthus; C u c u ba 1 u s; Arenaria; gtellaria; Scdum; Lychnis; Oxalis; Tri-
daclylus j
dactylus; Phytolacca; Afarum5 Peganum; Portulaca; Lythrum; Agrimonia; Refeda; Euphorbia; Tithymalus pinea; Sempervi-vum; Cactus opuntia; Cactus fcandens ; Philadelphus; Plidium ; Myrtus; Punica granatorum; Cerafus; Amygdalus; Cra-tegus; Sorbus; Malus; Pyrus; Oxyacan-tha; Mefpilus; Ulmaria; Filipendula; Ro-fa; Rubus; Fragraria; Tormentilla; Quin-quefolium ; Gcum.
The Algaroba (ceratonia edulis) near the fea, and to the fouth, is one of their moft profitable trees; tender, yet requiring no attention, beautiful in its foliage, luxuriant, and commonly loaded with fruit, which is given to their cattle; not only to thofe which work, but to their oxen, when they are to be fatted for the {fumbles. The pod is long, and contains many feeds, abounding with laccharine matter. It is exceedingly pleafant and nutneious. It is ever green.
Barcelona, as a relidence, is not only delightful, bat healthy. 1 here are indeed fome days when all the inhabitants-, but more especially ftrangers, are inclined to think it both unhealthy and linpleafant;
that
that is, when the eaft wind brings in the fog, which for many days before had been obferved Handing off at fea, as if watching and waiting for an opportunity to land. The pores are then locked up, and the temper becomes fo irritable, that the beft friends muff be careful how they meet. But no fooner does the land breeze fpring up, than the fog retires, the fun breaks out, and all nature wears a fmile. In Bar-celonetta, and the citadel, in which a garrifon of five thoufand five hundred men is quartered, intermittents never ceafe to rage, and to bring on in winter, dropfies and jaundice, and in fummer malignant fevers. The lame difeafes reign beyond Monjuich, in the low country watered by the Lcbregat; but although the prevailing wind in its paffage becomes loaded with miafmata, yet, being diverted from its courfe by that high mountain, it has no baleful influence on Barcelona.
JOURNEY
JOURNEY
FROM
BARCELONA to MADRID.
WHEN I had nearly fatisfied my curiofity, and had feen almoft every thing worthy of attention, I began to think how I was to proceed in my tour through Spain. Not having as yet acquired the language, I was by no means qualified to travel alone; but as my intention was to go directly for Madrid, I was informed that in the courfe of a few days fome opportunity would offer to join with three others in the hire of a coach. In the mean time I continued my excursions in the country, and vifited again thofe places wThich had fl ruck me molt.
At length having made a party with three officers in the Spanifh fervice, two of
them
them natives, the third a Frenchman, who were ail going to Madrid, we hired a good coach with feven mules, and left Barcelona on Saturday, May 6, in the afternoon. That evening we travelled five leagues on the banks of the Lobregat, and lay at Mar-torel. This place is famous for Hannibal's bridge, with its triumphal arch. I fhould have been happy, had the time permitted, to have made a drawing of thefe venerable remains, with the high mountain which rifes near them, to the eaft, and Montferrat, which is feen at the diflance of three leagues, hiding its lofty fummit in the clouds.
Mariorel is one long narrow ftreet, in which poverty, induftry, and filth, although feldom feen together, have agreed to take up their abode. The ii.habitants make lace, and even the little children of three and four years old, are engaged in this employment.
The next morning we came to Piera, at the foot of Montferrat, no longer appearing like a fugar loaf, but rather like a faw, riling almoft perpendicular, and lifting up its rugged rocks like pyramids to meet the
clouds,
clouds. Of all die countries I have feen, few have ever ilruck me like this in the vicinity of Montferrat.
The mountain is calcareous; but that which is moil remarkable is, that the whole is pudding ftone, compofed of limeftone gravel, formed into one hard mafs by a calcareous cement, and yet of fuch ftu-pendous height, that from its craggy fummit are feen the iflands of Majorca and Minorca, at the diftance of fifty leagues. On the fime mountain are found rocks of grit, or fand ftone; and, according to Bowles, the lapis lidius is no ftranger there. All the country near this furprifing mountain would, if it were more diftanr, appear mountainous; it is every where torn by deep ravins, laid open to the depth of one hundred and twenty feet, and appears to be compofed of broken fchift, with clay and fand. The rocks, which here and there peep through the foil, are evidently tumblers from Montferrat, and ferve to mew the nature of that mountain.
This Angular phenomenon is rendered more remarkable by a ftupendous mountain in its vicinity, defcribed by Bowles;
a moun-
t 19° ]
a mountain of three miles in circumference., near the village of Cardona, which is one mafs of fait , it is equal in height to thofe of the Pyrenees, on which it borders. In a climate like our own fuch a mafs had long fince been diifolved, but in Spain, they employ this rock fait as in Derbyshire they do the fluor fpar, to make fnuff-boxes and vafes, with other ornaments and trinkets. I carried a little fragment with me all through Spain, without the leaft fign of deliquefcence; but when I came to England, I foon found it furrounded with a pool of water.
I iliall not at prefent make any obferva-tions on the formation of thefe mountains j yet one circumftancc I would wifh to be remembered in the rocks of Montferrat, which is, that in fome of the ftrata the gravel is fmooth and rounded, like that which is found upon the fea beach.
After having travelled many leagues, with Montferrat conftantly on our right, and riline above us like a wave when it is prepared to burft, we began to increafe our diftance from its bafe, and winding to the left, defcended among the mountains
which
[   '9i 1
which border on the Noya, and wh:ch are competed of white granite. The ravins here are wider and deeper than thofe which we had feen the day before, and leave no room to doubt in what manner mountains acquire their form. But whoever travels through this country, and fees how nature has been convulfed, muff look for fome more powerful agent to account for the phenomena than water and the moft raging torrents.
Having crofted the Noya, and keeping alone its banks for about half a mile, through a narrow pafs, with the river on our right; we had on our left, cliils riling perpendicular to the height of near two hundred feet, compofed of calcareous in-cruftations, by the French called tuf, in-cloling fnails and leaves, like that which is between Montpellier and Montferrier. It had happened opportunely, that as we were defcending to the river, the coach was overturned, which gave me time to walk forwards, and not only to examine, but to make a drawing of the cliff, with its pendent rocks and caverns. Happily we re-8 ceived
ceivcd no other injury than a few trifling bruifes, and a delay of about half an hour. At the end of this lhort interval we were jogging on again towards Igualada, where, after having three times paffed the Noya, we arrived about the fet ting of the fun.
The country which lies round this lovely village is rich, highly cultivated, and well watered, hilly, and broken by ravins. The rock is fchift, and the ftrata are horizontal ; as we advance the fchift whitens, and becomes mixed with calcareous earth, till by degrees we lofe the fchift; and after obferving for fome confiderable fpace limeftone rock covered with white earth and clay, we meet only gypfum. In the fame progrefs we loft at firft the vine, then the olive and the ilex, till nothing remained but the querciis coccifera, and the oak.
The ploughs of this country are the degenerate offspring of thofe near Barcelona, not fo well executed, but conftrucled upon the fame general principles, with this difference, that they have no mould-board, no fin, and no coulter to be occafionally ufed.
The
The gypfum foon gave way to a vail expanfe of chalk, before we reached Ctr-*vera.
This city is in a moft delightful vale,
which is extremely fertile, and furrounded
by hills, on one fide of chalk, on the other
of limeftone.    This part of the country,
between the Noya, which runs into the
Lobregat, and the Segre, which joins the
Ebro, is the higheft land in this part of
Catalonia.   The univerfity in this city was
founded by Philip  V.  and   . ^
1 if .     A. ±X 1717,
has commonly  about nine
hundred under graduates, chiefly deflgned for employments in the church and at the bar, with fome few for medicine.
Having afcended from Cervera, the limeftone rock appears; and the hills are covered near the city with vines, but at a greater diftance with olives in vaft plantations. As we advance, the limeftone gives way to chalk, and, in the fame proportion, barrcnnefs fucceeds to plenty; but when the chalk is again replaced by limeftone, the face of the country improves, and the hills arc once more covered with vines and olives.
Vol. L O At
At Tarraga we fared fumptuoufly, and had a good hall to fup in, with fingle bedded rooms, and glafs in all the windows.
This village is fituate in a valley of great extent, bounded by diftant hills; the foil is clay, yet the crops look fickly. The fields are all in tillage. They plough with mules.
Approaching Lerida, the valley becomes lefs fertile in its nature, being chiefly a hungry fand covering a bed of gravel, chiefly filicious, with granite of every fpe-. cies. This, from the lituation of the country, might be well expected, confidering the multitude of rivers which here unite their ftreams, all rifing in the Pyrenees, and flowing from mountains which extend, eaft and weft, more than an hundred and twenty miles.
Leridd is a pretty little city, with a cathedral, four parifh churches, and fixteen convents, thirteen for men, and three for women. It is fituated on the Segre, under the protection of a hill, on which are feen the ruins of a caftle, now going to decay, but formerly of confideraole ftrength.
The
[   195 J The reck on which it (lands is filicious grit with a calcareous cement. This city, called Ilerda by the Romans, was rendered famous by the dillrefs to which Julius Caefir was reduced when encamped in its neighbourhood. He had taken poifellion of a plain ihut in between the rivers Cinga and Sico-ris, and defended by a deep intrenchment, whilfl Petreius and Afranius, Pompey's generals, were encamped on a hill between him   and  Ilerda.    In   the intermediate fpace, between the hill and the city, is a plain of no great extent, with an eminence, which, if feized, might be quickly fortified, and being fortified, would cut off all communication with the city.   For this, during five hours, they maintained a doubtful conflict; but in the end fortune declared in favour of Afranius, and Caefar retreated to his camp.   Whilfl  revolving in his miitd how he mould cover this diigrace, word was brought, that by the melting of the  fnovv upon the mountains his two • bridges were broken down, that the country was laid underwater by the overflowing of the rivers, and that all communication O 2 was
was cut off with the provinces by which his army had been fed.
The immediate confequence was famine. Whilff he remained in this fituation, mef-fengers were fent to Rome, and all gave him up for loft. It was upon the news of this diflrefs that Cicero left the city, and joined Pompey at Dyrrhachium. Cafar, without lofs of time, fet his men to work, and having made a fufficient number of little boats, light and portable like thofe which he had feen in Britain, after a few days fent a party up the river in the night, who, with thefe boats, made good their landing, and having fortified a camp, fe-cured his retreat.
The fituation of Lerida is delightful, and the country in which it Hands is one continued garden, covered with corn, with olive trees, and vines. For beauty few places can exceed it, but from the abundance of water, it is far from being healthy; and, fince the year 1764, this city, with the villages of Tarraga, Igualada, and Martorel, and all the furrounding country, has been ravaged by a malignant fever, which was
[   x97 ]
fpread by the French troops in their return from Portugal.
Alarmed at the progrefs of this deftruc-tive fever, the king lately fent one of his phyficians, Don Jofeph Mafdeval, to examine the fymptoms, and to mftruct the faculty in the beft method of treating it. His practice is fo remarkable, and the attestations in its favour are fo refpecfable, that, in treating of Carthagena, I fhall lay them before the public.   Previous to his arrival, notwithffanding every fymptom of debility, and proftration of lfrength, the phyficians had continued to order bleeding as long as there was any blood to flow. Whilfl:, however, we fmile at their fimplicity, we may too well remember when the fame was the pernicious practice in our ifland.
The antiquities of Lerida, with its caftle, and all that relates to the cathedral, are well defcribed in a work lately published by D. Jofeph Feneffres.
Being now at the extremity of Catalonia, it became neceflary to lay in a flock of provifions fufficient to ferve us till we ihould reach Zaragoza, or at leaft in aid O 3 of
r i
of thofe which we might purchafe by the way. Hitherto we had fared well; but now a little forethought became abfolutely needful. In Catalonia, the traveller is under the protection of the magistrate, who fettles the price of every thing he may want, and annually publishes his arancel, that is, a table of aflize, which muft be hung up in fome confpicuous place of every inn. According to this, every gueff occupying a bed-room with one bed muff pay■ for that and his light three fueldos and nine deniers, or fomething lefs than five pence; but if there are feveral beds in one room, then each pays two pence halfpenny nearly, or two fueldos Catalan. If he does not occupy a bed, he muft pay for fhelter fix deniers, or-/T of a penny. Every carriage pays one fueldo per night for ftanding. The ordinary is regulated as to the number and nature of the dimes, both for dinner and for fupper; and for thefe the prices are, including bread and wine for dinner, fifteen fueldos, or one fhilling and feven-pence farthing, and for fupper, fifteen fueldos three deniers.
For
[   l99 ]
			Sterling.	
	R'.	d».	j.	4
For a moderate ftzed fowl - -	4	12	O	"!
Ditto final! -	3	20	o	10
Capon, if great     -      - -	9	20	2	1
Ditto fmall -	8	0	I	
Turkey, great      - -	30	0	6	5
Woodcock ...	10	0	2	if
A dozen of eggs	2,	16	0	7
Mutton, per pound of 36 ounces	4	li	0	ii* ■•i
White bread, ditto	1	12	0	4
Ditto fecond, ditto	1	0	0	
Flour, ditto -	l	0	0	zi
Rice, ditto -	l	6	0	si
Maize, or Indian corn, ditto	0	12	0	I*
The above is reduced into fterling by approximation, to avoid fractions of a farthing. It muft be obferved, that the reals in Catalonia are ardites, containing two fueldos, or twenty-four deniers, which I here fuppofe equal to 2 £ of a penny fterling.
From Barcelona to Lerida is twenty-five leagues, or nearly one hundred miles. From Lerida wc came to Alcaraz, two leagues.
Here you turn your back upon Catalonia, and are reminded at every ftep that you have entered a new kingdom. The red cap and the black velvet breeches are no longer feen, but in their ftead a black O 4 velvet
velvet bonnet peaked4 like the mitre, and fhort white trowfers, called bragas, reaching m6re than half way down the thighs. The face of the country is likewife changed, more hilly, and broken by torrents, not altogether barren, but uncultivated, and left defolate. For many miles together there is neither houfe, nor tree, nor man, nor beafl, except a few flraggling carriers with their mules, and by the road fide are feen wooden croifes, to mark the fpot where fome unhappy traveller loll his life. The paifengers think it a work of piety to call a flone upon the monumental heap ; according to fome, as a mark of deteflation and abhorrence of the murderer, or, as others think, to cover the afhes of the dead. This, in all ages, and by every nation, has been confidercd as a deed of mercy, becaufe, to remain unburied was regarded' as the greatefl misfortune and difgrace. The mops, inhumataque turba was fuppoled to wander on the banks of the Styx, excluded from the Elyfian fields, reftlcfs and miferable, one hundred years, unlefs their bones were previouily covered, Virgil, iEneid vi. ver, 325. Whatever may
have
have been the origin of this practice, it is general over Spain, and round moft monumental croffes is feen a heap of ftones.
All the way from Lerida the deep ravins (hew limeftone rock in ftrata, which are feparated by fand clay.
Having croffed the Cinca, and palled through Fraga, which is built in one of thefe deep ravins, we begin to afcend the mountains, where we fee the fame horizontal ftrata of limeftone, with clay between them. Thefe mountains produce only aromatic herbs.
In traveling this barren country, a conjecture naturally arofe, that Catalonia either acquired fovereignty before, the eftablifh-ment of Arragon, or that the people, by-whatever name they were diftinguifhed, were more warlike than their neighbours ; for had the kingdom of Arragon, if, referring to diftant periods, we may call it by that name, been founded hrft, or had the inhabitants excelled the Catalans in ftrength and courage, they would have left thefe mountains, and would have extended their dominion to the eaft.
The firft night after we had croffed the
Cinca
Cinca we. lay at Candafnos, a miserable village without one convent, a circum-ilance which fufficiently befpeaks the extreme poverty of its inhabitants.
Round this village I obferved abundance of flints, fuch as we find among the chalk in England, much limeftone, and fome gypfum. The inhabitants employ them-felves in collecting and warning earth for the purpofe of extracting the nitre of fea fait, which it contains in great abundance.
I was much diverted to fee the aftonifh-ment with which thefe aborigines viewed one of our fellow-travellers, a Frenchman, but a colonel in the Spanifh fervice. They are a diminutive race, and he is fix feet fix inches high, flout, well made, and of a foldier-like appearance, yet he could Scarcely make them keep their diftance. Thefe pigmies are no ft rangers to gallantry, as we all could teflify ; for, as ill-luck would have it, oppofite to us there lodged a fair one, for whom a defponding lover had prepared a ferenade. No fooner had the village clock ftruck twelve, than he began to fing the praifes of his miftrefs, beating time upon the difcordant firings of his guitar.
It
It is impofiible to conftrucl: a fcale of fen-Ability or tafte, or to afcertain precifely to what degree the ear is tuned to harmony 5 but fhould fuch a fcale be formed by any ' one who has never heard thefe ditties in fome of the villages of Spain, like Faren-heit with his thermometer, he will be inclined to place his lowed point abundantly too high.
By the time this lover had retired to his reft, we were obliged to rife, and to profe-cute our journey.
From Candafnos we traverfed a barren plain of gypfum, twenty miles, without feeing either houfe, or man, or beaft, or bird, or tree, or bufh, except only in one fpot, where, to my aftonifhment, on apparently the fame kind of foil, the olive flou-rifhed.
At the end of this tedious morning we came to a fingle houfe or venta, in which we were to drefs our dinner. Here we found a party of foldiers ftationed to fcour the country, and to purfue the robbers, who had been accuftomed to confidcr this p.irt of Arragon as abandoned to them, with full liberty to plunder all whp fhould ven
ture
ture to pafs through it. The foldiers knew our colonel, and offered to efcort us on our way; but as we had three officers, all well armed, we did not think it needful to accept their kindnefs.
Whilfl the dinner was preparing, I took the opportunity of climbing a hill, at no great diflance, which commands a mofl extenfive profpect; but in that vail ex-panfe, far as the eye could reach, nothing was to be feen but a naked gypfum rock. It is here that nature feems to fleep, and to have flept fome thoufand years; or at leail it is here that fhe has either neglected or forgotten her accuflomed operation in forming vegetable earth. Turning from the dreary landfcape, I haftened back to dinner, fatisfied that nature never appears fo beautiful as when her face is covered with a veil.
Having dined, we proceeded on our way, and till we began defcending to the Ebro, had nothing but the gypfum rock in fight, excepting for fome fhort intervals, when we faw the more fertile limeftone. The whole of this gypfum is cryflalized.
When we had reached the plain, which
is
is watered by the Ebro, we left that river to the left, keeping the gypfum mountains on our right till we came near to Zara-goza, where the valley widens, and where very confiderable hills, entirely compofed of flints, interpofe between the river and thofe barren mountains.
As we approach the city, the profpedl brightens, the hills on our right fhew the hanging duffers of the vine, and the margin of the Ebro is covered with luxuriant crops of corn interfperfed with olives. Here the wines are excellent, more efpeci-ally in dry feafons j but thefe do not yield as good brandy as the weaker wines of France. Indeed it is a pity that fuch generous wines mould ever be diftilled.
In long journies it is ufual to give the mules one day's reft about the middle of the way. Happily for me this place of reft was Zaragoza, being fifty computed leagues from Barcelona, and fifty-two from Madrid. Each league is about four miles and a half.
Zaragoza, by ancient Spanifh authors written Caragoca, and by the Romans called Ctffarea Augujia, is a great wealthy
city
city on the' Ebro, 'at the conflux of two other rivers, one running from the north, the other a confiderable ffream defcending from the mountains of the fouth.
Immediately on my arrival I vifited the cathedrals. Here 1 forgot all the hard-fhips and fatigues which we had fuffered in this long journey; nay, had I travelled all the way on foot, I would have freely done it to enjoy the light of thefe cathedrals : that which is called El Afcu is • vait, gloomy, and magnificent; it excites devotion, infpires awe, and inclines the worfhipper to fall proftrate^ and to adore in filence the God who feems to veil his glory; the other, called El Pilar, fpacious-, lofty, light, elegant, and cheerful, -infpires hope, confidence, complacency, and makes the foul impatient to exprefs its
- gratitude for benefits received.
In the centre of this cathedral there is an edifice which is ffrikingly beautiful.
- The principal front is a chapel of our Lady of the Pillar, who appeared upon this very pdlar to St. James, and afterwards gave to him the image which is worfhipped at her altar.   Over this there is a dome corre-
fponding
fponding to the great dome, under which it ftands, ferving' by way of canopy to trie image of the virgin. The three other fronts of this elegant tabernacle are in like manner chapels. Befides the great dome, there are - many fmaller domes furrounding it, each with elegant paintings in cora-. partiments, the fubjedts of which are hif-torical, taken from the facred writings, or from the legends of the faints, to whom the chapels and altars are dedicated. Thefe are executed by D. Francifco Bayeu, frrft painter to the king ; and the architect, under the infpedion of whom thefe domes have been conftructed, is Rodriguez, of whofe tafte and judgment thefe decorations and improvements will remain a Lifting monument.
The wealth of this cathedral is ineftima-ble, in filver, gold, precious ftones, and'rich embroidery, fent by all the catholic fove-reigns of Europe to deck its priefts/and to adorn its altars. Many of thefe prefents being modern, are worthy of attention for their elegance, as well as for the value of their pearls, diamonds, emeralds, and ru-pies. In a word, whatever wealth could 4 command,
command, or human art could execute, has been collected to excite the admiration of all who view the treafures of this church.
Among the other objects worthy to be feen is the church called Engratia, whofe patron faint is faid to have walked a league, carrying his head in his hands, talking all the way, and in this manner prefented himfelf at the gates of his convent. In this church they mew an original painting by St. Luke with many other relics, equally authentic, and not inferior in their value.
Straitened for time, I could take only a curfory view of the environs. In a country like this no living rock is to be expected, nor any thing but what has been moved; the fpoils of various mountains brought down by the rivers, and blended here together. The chief depofit in this place is limeftone gravel, and on that the city ftands. It is much to be lamented that they have neither ftone for building, nor good clay for bricks; hence all their churches, not excepting the beautiful cathedral, ihew cracks from top to bottom. The cement is good, and abounds upon the fpot, as may be feen by the bottom of the 3 mcv,
river, which is a bed of gypfum, commonly ufed here for making plailer.
Had the time permitted, I mould have vifited all the buildings recommended to my notice, the convents of S. Ildefonfo, S. Francifco, the Dominicans: not to mentiori thirty-feven others lefs worthy of attention, with the Audiencia, the Torre nueva in the great fquare, built by the Moors, and the Torre del Afeu, which was a mofque. Short as was our flay, I flood long contemplating the beauty of the bridge over the Ebro, of fix hundred feet, with its centre arch of one hundred, and at laft turned from it with regret.
I had brought a letter for general O' Neile, the governor, but unfortunately he was abfent at Madrid. This lofs was in fome meafure made up to me by the attention of my valuable friend, the young Spaniard, who had connections in Zaragoza. With him, when I had finifhed my excur-fions, I went to drink lemonade and chocolate at the houfe of the fifcal civil, and afterwards we flipped together at don Philip de Canga's, the fifcal criminal, both
Vol. T. P men
men of good underftanding, and well informed.
Could I have known beforehand that fo many objects worthy of attention were to be met with in this city and its vicinities, I would have laid my plan to have made a longer flay, and mould have derived more advantage from the converfation of thefe gentlemen.
Among other particulars, they gave me this account of their univerfity: it contains near two thoufand Students, and for their inftruction the doctors conftantly re-fiding are, forty in theology, twenty for the canon law, thirty-fix for civil law, feven-teen for medicine, and eight for arts. The foundation of this feminary was laid A. D. 1118, on the expulfion of the Moors; but the univerfity was not incorporated till A. D, 1474, and from that period it has Conftantly been cherifhed and protected by the fovereigns of Arragon.
Near this city partes the famous canal of Arragon, deligned to form a communication by the Ebro from fea to fea, between S. Ander, in the bay of Bifcay, and
Tortoia,.
f 41' ]
Tortofa, on the borders of the Mediterranean, a diftance confiderably more than one hundred Spanifh leagues. This, perhaps, is one of the moft arduous undertakings that ever was conceived; to make the communication through the whole extent by water is hardly poilible, or, if pohlble, is by no means defirable ■> becaufe, in paf-fing the mountains of Bifcay, which are a continuation of the Pyrenees, only from Reinofa, at the head of the Ebro, to the Suanzes, which flows into the bay near S» Ander, in the fpace of three leagues, the fall is three thoufand Spanifh feet. Efta-blifhing therefore magazines at Suanzes and Reinofa, with a carrying way between them, from Reinofa they will navigate the Ebro. They have a great command of water : the head of the Pelilla has more than forty large fountains in the fpace of one hundred yards in length, by forty in breadth, fpouting up to a confiderable height. This river does not run four hundred yards before it enters the Ebro, which has only three fountains, but thefe confiderable.
It is remarkable, that between Fontibre P 2 (Fons
(Fons Ebri) and Reinofa, there is a fait lake.
The Ebro is navigable from Logrono to Tudela; and the canal, which begins at Tu-dela, is finifhed as far as Zaragoza 5 from whence it will be carried ten leagues lower before it enters again into the Ebro. At Ampofta, below Tortofa, there is another canal, which opens into the bay of Alfar-ques, to obviate the inconvenience which arifes from the frequent fhifting of the bed of the Ebro, near its mouth. Not far from Zaragoza, the canal panes the mountain of Torrero by an open calf of forty feet the mean depth, for more than a quarter of a league, or about one mile in length. The twelve leagues which they have finiilied from Tudela, coif fixty millions of reals, which in fferling is fix hundred thoufand pounds; the twelve leagues are nearly equal to fifty-three miles Englifh, upon a fuppofition that they are flatute leagues of twenty-five thoufand Spanifh feet; but-if wTe fuppofe them to be ordinary leagues, of fix thoufand fix hundred varas each, the twelve leagues will be only forty-two miles and a fmall fraction. On
the
the former fuppofition, the expence will be found eleven thoufand fix hundred and eighty-two pounds four millings per mile, or lix pounds twelve millings and eight pence per yard. This expence appears to be enormous; but if we confider that the canals in Spain are nine feet deep, twenty feet wide at bottom, and fifty-fix at top; and if we confider the cutting through a mountain open caff more than a mile, we fhall not think it unreafonable.
In a calculation which Mr. Whitworth made for a canal to be made   . ^
A. IJ. 1771.
from Salisbury to Redbridge, he fuppofed the depth four feet and an half, and the width at bottom fourteen feet, In thefe circumflances he allowed three pence halfpenny for every cubic yard; but had the canal been deeper and wider, he muft have made his eftimate double, treble, or even more, not merely according to the quantity, but in proportion to the diftance to which that quantity muft be removed, and the perpendicular height to which it muft be previouily raifed. Mr. Whitworth's canal does not contain more than ten cubic yards in each yard in length, P 3 and
and a considerable proportion of this may be done merely by the fpade, without the aid of either pick-axe or barrow; whereas the Spanifh canals contain near forty-nine and one ninth cubic yards in each yard in length, the greatefl part of which is to be moved to a great diflance, and from a con-fiderable depth, increafing commonly in hardnefs in proportion to the depth.
This however will ferve to (hew the wifdom of our people in the north of England, who by experience have learned to make their canals very narrow. With them three boats of thirty tons are preferred to one of ninety; and to carry thirty tons, they conftrucl: their boats about feventy feet long, feven wide at top, and fix at bottom; drawing four feet of water. But fuch contemptible canals would not fuit the ambition of a Spaniard, nor coincide with his ideas of grandeur.
As we croffed this canal near Zaragoza, on our way to Wards Madrid, we flopped to examine the works; and I muft confefs that I never faw any fo beautiful or fo perfect in their kind as the locks and wharfs; nor did I ever fee men work with greater
fpirit,
fpirit, or in a better manner. The number of men employed is three thoufand, of which two thoufand are foldiers, the others peafants; to the former they give three reals a day in addition to their pay; but they work moffly by the piece, and receive what they earn.
As we increafed our diftance from Zaragoza, we quitted the flat country, and began to climb between the mountains, which at a lower level ihew horizontal ftrata of limeftone, whilft all the fummits, both near us and at the greateft diftance, are evidently gypfum. In the vallies we found clay and flints, fuch as our chalk commonly produces. Thefe circumftances lead to a fufpicion, that the gypfum on thefe high mountains was once chalk, although now faturated with vitriolic acid.
We dined at Muel. In this little village are many potters, who turn their own wheels, not by hand, but with their feet, by means of a larger wheel concentric with that on which they mould the clay, and nearly level with the floor.
Proceeding after dinner, we left the gyp-P 4 fum
fum mountains at fome diftance, till we approached Longares, which is feven leagues from Zaragoza, where this ridge dies away, and leaves before us a wide extended plain, bounded by diftant hills. The foil is clay, with gravel of flint, filicious grit, and white quartz, more especially along the middle of this fpacious vale, in which there appears a bed of it all fmooth and polifhed, as we fee in brooks fubject. to ftrong land floods and torrents. This plain produces moft luxuriant crops of corn, with vines, and abounds in fheep.
At eight in the evening we arrived at , Carinena, one league from Longares, having travelled our eight leagues, which is the ufual journey: this we may reckon fix and thirty Englifh miles.
Here one of our countrymen left a hiftory behind him, written in Englifh, on the wall, for a warning to thofe who may chance to follow him. Jn the night, two men attempted to rob him in his bed; but he happily awoke, and ftarting up, knocked one down, and made the other fly. The one whom he knocked down was fervant
to
to a French officer with whom he was travelling, the other was one of the coachmen. From the obfervations I have had occafion to make in Spain, I am of opinion, that no gentleman fhould fleep in a room alone, unlefs he has made faft, the door.
The wine which this country produces is of the finefi quality, and I have no doubt will be much coveted in England whenever the communication mall be opened to the fea.
Carinena contains two thoufand and thirty-fix fouls, and has two convents. From hence we proceeded along a fruitful bottom, covered with vines and olives, then afcending among mountains,we found, at a lower level, fchift. with its lamina Handing perpendicular, and foon after libelous grit, inclined to the horizon, then limeflone rock.
In this- country we pafs vafl tracts of land fufceptible of cultivation, which, I "nave no doubt, will be one day covered with luxuriant crops, although at prefent we fee little befides the quercus coccifera, and a few aromatic herbs.
Croffing
[  «8 J
Crofting the river Xiloca, at the diflance of five leagues, we came to Daroca, where we dined.
This city, inclofing within its walls two thoufand eight hundred and fixty-three fouls, is built in a ravin, and would have been fwept away by torrents, had not the inhabitants made a drift of fix hundred yards through the heart of a mountain, to open a communication with the river. This work is worthy of infpection.
Daroca appears to have been always of importance, as the fortifications, although now decayed, fufficiently evince. It formerly occupied the hills for fafety, but now it has crept down into the vale for fhelter.
The rocks, which are here laid bare, are fchift, covered with limeftone.
Climbing among thefe, it is beautiful to look down upon the vale, which feeds the city, every where fhut in by uncultivated mountains, itfelf well watered, covered with deep verdure, and loaded with the moft luxuriant crops. To view fuch a ftrip of' land excites a wonder how the inhabitants can live.
* The
The exquifite beauty of this fpot, and the protection which it offered, were powerful attractives to the priefts and to the religious orders, who in this city have no lefs than fix convents and feven parifh churches, of which, one is collegiate, although not a bifhop's fee.
After dinner we afcended to much higher mountains, in which the fchift. and the iili-cious grit appear in ftrata, inclined to the horizon in every angle, and in every poffi-ble direction. All nature here feems to have fuffered the moft violent convulfions.
Thefe mountains muft certainly abound with minerals, of which we fee every mark but the mineral itfelf. Indeed, when the Romans fettled here, it was with a view to mine. From the nature of the rock, and from the peculiar appearance of the fchoerl, I have no doubt that tin is not far off.
We are here on the higheft land in Spain, with the water falling behind us into the Ebro, whilft immediately before us it runs into the Tagus.
When we begin defcending to the fouth weft, we obferve a deeper foil, fewer crags, and the ftrata more inclined to the
horizon,
horizon, than we found in the declivity to the north and to the eaft. This circuni-dance will appear perfectly natural, when we confider that in the latter direction the water does not run much more than one hundred miles before it enters the fea j whereas in the former it mull go nearly fix hundred miles to find the ocean. Yet this circumftance alone will not account for the confufion which appears in all the ftrata as we afcended from Daroca; the fea lb ells which every where abound in the limeftone, wherever it is found on thefe high mountains, prove fufiiciently that this country was once covered with the fea.
Without entering at prefent on the different folutions which have been given of thefe phenomena, I fhall only tranfiently obferve, yet I wifh it to be remembered, that thefe ftrata are not now in the fame pofition in which they lay when the whole peninfula wTas covered with the waters of the fea.
On thefe mountains, both in the morning and the afternoon, we obferved many monumental croffes, each placed near the fpot on which the unwary traveller had
been
been robbed and murdered, or had met with fome fatal accident.   At this, conft> dering the nature of the country, I was not furprifed;  but I mull:  own   my blood ran cold when I faw fome crofTes in the villages through which we pafTed. Their numbers fufficiently evince, not only a bad difpofition in the inhabitants, but a bad government.   No people can be more paf-lionate than the Welch, yet in Wales we feldom hear of murder; they do not thirft for blood, and mould any one feel himfelf provoked to take away another's life, he would tremble at the laws. But in Arragon, this crime often paifes with impunity, un-lefs as far as one murder is the parent of another.
The efcrivanos, who perform the office of coroner, are many of them poor, hungry, rapacious, and deftitute of principle; and without them no evidence can be received. Thefe venal wretches are commonly prepared with equal indifference to fell juftice or injuffice to him who offers moft; and all over Spain they have free fcope in the country towns, becaufe few gentlemen live
in
in or near a village, to protect the peafant* being moftly refident in cities.
We lay in the miferable village of Ufet, the laft in Arragon, and two leagues from Daroca.
Having neglected to lay in provifions before we left that city, we began, for the firft time, but not the laft, to furfer want, and to murmur at the inattention of Our captain. When we left Barcelona, a common fund was made to pay the expences of the journey, and we immediately proceeded to the election of a treafurer. The parties were our colonel, a Frenchman, tall, handfome, elegant in his manners, fen-fible, well-informed, perfect mafter of the language, and well acquainted not only with the mode of travelling in Spain, but with the precautions needful to be taken by thofe who would pafs with any comfort from Barcelona to Madrid. Naturally our choice fhould have fallen upon him, but unfortunately there were objections which every one felt, but which no one dared to name. As a ftranger, and as ignorant of the language, I was out of the
que ft ion.
queftion.   Of the Spanifh gentlemen, one was a cadet in the army, lively, fenfibie, and of the nobleft difpoiition; but being not more than fourteen years of age, he like-wife was rejected.   The other gentleman, under whofe wings the cadet travelled, was a Spaniard of a certain age, a captain in the army, and therefore accuftomed to travel; of a grave deportment, and for integrity worthy of the confidence which was to be repofed in him; but—(for in every character there is fome but)—he was a bigot. Naturally auftere, lilent, and referved, his religion taking its complexion from his temper, he became fevere, morofe, and feemed to cherifh a cold indifference to all the comforts of this life both for himfelf, but more efpecially for his friends; yet in him all our fuffrages met; he was to keep the purfe, to pay all expences, to render an account, which he did with the moft exact fidelity, and to make proviiion for the journey, where provisions were to be procured ; but this he neglected, although his coadjutor, the colonel's valet, was active, and always ready to run at his command to the butchery for flefh, to the baker's for
bread,
bread; and to the vintner's to purchafe wine^ With a good look out we might have had hares, partridges, rabbits, and poultry in abundance; whereas, by neglect, before we reached Madrid, we were half ftarved; and yet our journey coft much more than with good management would have made us comfortable.
In the morning, when we were ready to leave Ufet, this was the manner of dif-charging the account: the miffrefs of the houfe, fupported by fome female, made her approach at firft with a low voice and with a modeft air. The captain, fupported by his colonel, who upon occafion could look very fierce, repelled the charge, and exclaimed againft the exorbitancy of the demand. The miftrefs, appealing to the maid, who was prepared to defend her moderation, by degrees raifed her voice, and became violent almoft to fury, The captain fputtered> and the colonel fome-times put in a word to allay the flormy whilft the cadet flood laughing at a dil-tance, till at the end of about twenty minutes the ftorm fuddenly fubfided, the landlady looked placid, and quietly accepted
one-half
one-half of the original demand. If in the outfet our captain had with calmnpfs alked for the arancel, all this trouble had been faved, becaufe every publican is obliged to have one hung up in his houfe, and in that the price of every article, with the ruido de cafa (noife of the houfe) and beds, is fixed by the magistrate.
This bufinefs being ended, every one took his corner in the coach, the coachman clacked his heavy whip, and the moment we began to move, the cadet, looking upon his mentor, croffed himfelf.
Our way lay acrofs an extenfive plain, bounded by diftant hills, in which the foil is fand and gravel, covering a limeftone rock. The afcent to thefe hills is very eafy, and the hills themfelves are fufceptible of cultivation; yet they are defolate, and for miles difcover neither houfe nor tree, except the juniper.
At eleven in the morning we arrived at Tortuera, having travelled four leagues to dinner. This little village, the manfion of wretchednefs and mifery, is built upon a rock of marble, fuch as would not difgrace a palace. The fun was fhining very hright;
Vol. L not
not a cloud was to be feen ; yet thefe poor peafants filled the church, each with his lighted taper, prepared to join in a pro-cefHon. ,
The ploughs of this diftricl: are much degenerated from the perfection of thofe at Barcelona. The handle, the mare, and the lhare iron, all pafs through one mortice in the beam, which is made crooked for that purpofe. All thefe are fattened by a wedge. It is fcarcely pofhble to fee a rougher implement, without coulter, fin meets, or mould board; but inftead of this, two pins, one on each fide, driven into the heel of the fhare.
All the way over the mountains, till you come near to Anchuela, the limeftone prevails, charged with foflil fhells, fuch as oyfters, entrochi, and belemnites, with tere-bratulae and chama?. A little to the fouth of this, near Molina, on the mountains between the Xiloca, which goes into the Ebro, and the Gallo, which joins the Tagus, under the limeftone they find a red gypfum, containing alfo foflil fhells. It is remarkable, that this gypfum, decompofmg and lofing its Vitriolic acid, cryftallifes in hexagonal
prifms
prifms of a red colour; of thefe I collected many of different fizes, which ferment with the nitrous acid.
All the way over thefe defert mountains, with their interpoiing vallies, not one object: prefents itfelf to cheer the weary traveller ; no houfe, no tree, except the favin, the juniper, and afpecies of cedar, which is peculiar to this country but from time to-time a monumental crofs reminds him"of mortality.
We, indeed, had little caufe to fear, becaufe we were well amied, excepting when we chofe to wTalk, and to leave the coach behind us.   Some officers who paffed this way, being at a diftance from their carriage, in which, little fufpedting danger, they had left their fwords, upon entering a wood they were fuddenly attacked and robbed by a banditti, who immediately efcaped into the thicket, and were feen no more. One morning, when we had walked before the carriage, and I had got the lead, fearful of being too far a-head, I" looked back from time to time, taking care never to be out of %ht of our captain, who was following at a diitance; but finding myfelf entering Q^2 upon
upon a foreft, I fhortened fail, and recollecting the ftory of the officers, I turned oftener than ufual to look behind me, when fuddenly, having loft fight of my companion, I foon difcovered him again, but out of the road, and running very faff. Not being able to imagine why he ran, whether we had miffed the way, or whether he was efcaping for his life, I purfued him over the hills, and through the bottoms, where it was not poffible to know which way I fhould direct my courfe to catch him, till I had the happinefs to fee him flop. When I came up to him, I found that our cadet had wandered from the way, and had taken another road. Fortunately for him, his good mentor faw him, purfued him, and brought him back again. When we were thus together, all my apprehenfions vanifh-ed, and we leifurely returned into the road which we had quitted; but here a new perplexity arofe ; for, from the fummit of a hill, which had a commanding profpect, we could fee nothing of the coach, nor could we determine if it were before us or behind us. At laft, not being able to difcover the track of the wheels, we walked half way back
to
jto the village from which we had departed, where we found the coach flicking in the mire, and fome peafants engaged with their implements, working hard to fet it free.
The country contiguous to Anchuela, compared with the uncultivated mountains of Arragon, appears a Paradife. The limeftone rock is covered with a deeper foil, and the little hills are cultivated to their fummits; yet Anchuela is a moft miferable village, and in the pofada there is only one room, with two filthy beds. When beds are wanting, officers ufe their privilege, and are billeted by the alcalde on fome private family.
In walking out to view the country, I found on the ploughed land abundance of cockle-fhells and cardias.
The plough is precifely the fame as that laft defcribed. An Englifh mechanic will not readily conceive how a plough can be made, not only without coulter, drock, ground-wrift, and mould-board, but without any fheets to fupport the handle and the fhare. To conftruct fuch a plough would puzzle their invention -t yet nothing
0^3 can
can be more fimplc, for the beam itfelf being curved, fupplies the place of meets.
In leaving Anchuela, Tuefday, May 16, we fent the carriage forward, and walked by a much nearer way to meet it, winding through a valley which is fhut in by Swelling hills, and directing our courfe by a rivulet whofe waters are as clear as cryftal. The fides of thefe hills are lhaded with favin, juniper, and the ulex europams.
This would be a beautiful fituation for a nobleman's feat: here he would have plenty of wood and water, with corn, and wine, and oil, in great abundance, wh$ft the money which he fpent in the maintenance of a great eftabliihment, circulating among his tenants, would cherifh their induftry, and animate the whole country for many miles around him.
Throughout the whole of Spain I cannot recollect to have feen a iingle country refidence, like thofe which every where abound in England: the great nobility fur-round the fovereign, and are attracted by the court j the nobles of inferior rank or fortune are either affembled at Madrid, or eftablifh themfelves in the great cities of
the
the diftant provinces.   This defertion of the country has arifen, not as in other kingdoms, from the oppreflion of the great barons, and from the franchifes enjoyed by cities, but from two other caufes more extenfive in their operation.    The firft of thefe was the diffracted condition of the empire till the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, divided into feparate kingdoms of fmall extent, all engaged in never-ceafing wars againft each other, which drove men of property into the cities; the fecond, was the jealoufy of the court,- which foon followed the expulfion of the Moors; a jealoufy which for more than a century and an half was merely political, left the grandees, fupported by the people, fhould endeavour to regain their confequence. To this fear, at the accefTion of the prefent family, fucceeded one of a more alarming nature; from the attachment which many of the great families had difcovered to the houfe of Auftria.   For this reafon they were affembled round the throne, and kept conftantly in fight.   The condition of the French is certainly better, and fome inhabited caftles are to be found in every pro-Q_4 vince.
vince.  But, in this refpect, no country can be compared to England.   If the caufes were to be affigned for this equal diffemi-nation of wealth, which appears in the delightful manfions of the great, and the feats of country gentlemen, fcattered over the face of the whole ifland -> of that which is to be feen in all our cities, great towns, and even country villages; which meets the eye in every farm houfe, and which ihews it-felf in the high. Hate of cultivation, in our agricultural improvements, in the flocks, the herds, and the luxuriant crops with which our fields are covered, the leading caufe would probably be found in the constitution of our government, not merely as fecuring life, liberty, and property, but as making it neceffary for the firfi: nobility to cultivate their interefl: in the country, if they will preferve their influence at court. By refiding on  their own eflates, they not only fpend money among their tenants, which, by its circulation, fets every thing in motion, and becomes productive of new wealth, but their amufement is to make improvements. By planting, draining, and breaking up lands, which would have
remained
remained unprofitable, they try new experiments, which their tenants could not afford, and which, if fuccefsful, are foon adopted by their neighbours; they introduce the belt breed of cattle, the beft implements of hufbandry, and the beft mode of agriculture ; they excite emulation, they promote the mending of the roads, and they fecure good police in the villages around them;  being prefent, they prevent their tenants from being plundered by their ftewards; they encourage thofe who are fober, diligent, and fkilful; and they get rid of thofe who would impo-verifh their eftates.   Their farmers too, finding a ready market for the produce of the foil, become rich, increafe their ftock, and, by their growing wealth, make the land more productive than it was before; nay, their tradefmen, when they get money, which is not wanted to increafe their peculiar ftock, either lend it to the farmer, or themfelves purchafe land, and bury their treafures in the earth; yet not like that which js hid by the miferable flaves of a defpotic government, to remain unprofitable,
[   *34 ]
ble, but to produce, fome thirty, fome iixty, and fome an hundred fold.
The country which we paffed over between Anchuela and Maranchon, in its appearance and in its calcareous rock, refcm-bles that which is about Atford, in the road to Bath, or rather like that which is round Keinfham, between Bath and Briftol.
Maranchon, remarkable, like other villages around it, for the poetic fire of its inhabitants, is a little village fituated on a declivity, fheltered from the north by high limeftone rocks, but open to the fouth, and looking down upon the rich, valley by which it is fed. The foil is diffolved limeftone, with fand and clay, forming a moft fertile marie. At this feafon it is all alive; I counted forty ploughs at work, all employed in preparing for their peas.
Having obferved the refemblance between this country and that which is to the eaft and to the weft of Bath, I felt a peculiar pleafure in picking up on the ploughed land, belemnites, cockles, and cardias, with other bivalves, and fragments
of the pifolite, of the fame fpecies and . of the fame colour with thofe which I had formerly collected at Keinfham, Atford, Wraxal, Melkiham, and on the adjacent hills.
After dinner we left Marancfion, and, in about three or four miles, loft the limeftone, which was fucceeded by lilicious grit of a peculiar texture, fomewhat like bran. This, however, did not continue, for at Aguilarejo we paifed between two high rocks of fine grit, or fand ftone, very white, with the ftrata inclined to the horizon, in the angle of forty-five degrees. The country we paffed over between thefe two miferable villages, after quitting the rich valley of Maranchon, is little cultivated, and, excepting two woods, the one of oak, the other of ilex, is naked and unprofitable, although thefe woods fhew furhciently what the country could produce.
Near to Aguilarejo the crops of wheat appear half ftarved, and the fields are covered with the wild ranunculus.
This day we faw five monumental croffes, one coming out of a wood, one at a place where four ways met, the reft on the fummits
mits of the hills, from whence the robbers could fee every thing that was pafllng on the road, and know which way to efcape.
We flept at Alcolea, having travelled, according to the Guia de C'aminos, only fix leagues and a half lince three in the morning. I fhould conceive that the leagues here, like the miles in diftant provinces with us, arc longer than the legal meafure.
The country about Alcolea is covered with corn, excepting only fome few hills, which, fliaded by the ilex and the j uniper, prefent a never-failing verdure.
As we proceeded, afcending among the hills, at the diftance of a few miles from Alcolea, culture ceafes, and the country is abandoned to the ilex, the ulex europa3Us, and the quercus coccifera, thefe laft diminutive, but the firft refpcclable,
The roads are here moft deteftable. The Spanifh nation is tenacious of its freedom from the Corve-> but this appears to me bad policy. After feeding the pcafant, who cultivates the foil, the firft furplus of revenue fhould be applied in making roads to carry the crops to market. Farmers, if left to themfelves, will never pay attention,
nor
nor expend their money, their labour, and their time, on this moll important object; and in Spain, the gentlemen of landed property, being confined wholly to the cities, neither feel the want of roads, nor fee their interefl concerned in having them repaired. It is the landlord in every country who ultimately bears this expence, and it is he who principally reaps the benefit.
As we approach Algara, the libelous grit, or fand flone, which has continued all the way from Aguilarejo, gives place to limeftone charged with foflil fhells.
In this village the church is the only object which can give pleaiure; it is very pretty.
Beyond this the country becomes inclofed with limeftone fences; but although inclofed, it feems to be left uncultivated, covered in general with ftones, and abounding with oak, ilex, juniper, the ulex europseus, the lavendula fpica, the common thyme, and the genifta.
Here, for the firft time fince we left Barcelona, we faw horned cattle feeding.
We paffed by three monumental croffes, all at the junction of four ways.   In a
country
country where few people travel, a thief has little chance of paffengers, unlefs where two ways crofs.
As we drew near to Grajanejosy we travelled over an extenfive plain of open field land, well cleared, and all in corn, bounded by a forefl of the moft. luxuriant ilex, through which we paffed, not without cir-cumfpedtion as we entered, and when we were about to quit it.
Grajanejos is built upon a rock of limeftone, looking perpendicularly down upon a fertile little vale, above which it is elevated more than three hundred feet. The fituation is romantic, and the valley has the appearance of a ravin.
They have here no beef. Mutton is eleven quarts, or a fraction more than three pence per pound of iixteen ounces. Bread three quarts and a half, or one penny nearly. Labour is four reals, or lefs than ten pence a day.
In converting with the padre cura, that is, with the rector, I learnt that he had fixty houfes in his parifh, two hundred and forty communicants, befide one hundred children under the  communicating age,
which
which is eight. All above this age are compelled to confefs, and to receive the facrament. His living is worth eight hundred ducats per annum; a considerable benefice for Spain, being equal to £.87. iys. %d. fterling.
May 18. From Grajanejos we crofted an extenfive plain, and paffing through a foreft of ilex, entered upon a level country, in which, for many miles, we faw neither tree, nor houfe, nor any token of human ex-iffence, except one monumental crofs. But after this, as we got within the influence of Guadalajara, we met with flocks of fheep, good corn, and fandy banks covered with vines, which to us had all the charms of novelty. Defcending to a lower level, we difcovercd a vafl expanfe before us, bounded by fnowy mountains to the north. In this fertile vale plenty feems to have eftablifhed her dominion, and to be conftantly replenishing her horn with corn, and wine, and oil.
Guadalajara is divided into ten parifhes, and is faid to contain fixteen thoufand fouls, with fourteen convents. It is rendered famous by the royal manufacture of broad
cloth,
cloth, and is remarkable for the fpecies of cloth made of the Vigogna wool. Here the king employs near four thoufand people, to whom he pays monthly fix hundred thoufand reals, or fix thoufand pounds, belides about forty thoufand fpinners fcattered in the furrounding villages.
This manufacture was firft projected by the Baron de Riperda, A. D. 1720, who brought workmen from Holland, but with very ill fuccefs; and Don Jofeph de Car-vajal, prime minister to Philip V. who attempted the fame at S. Fernando, had in his day little more to boaft of. During the war of 1740, the Englifh government, with a view to diflrefs the Spaniards, having prohibited the importation of their wool, the fudden Stagnation had for the moment the effect defired; but new channels were foon opened, frefh markets were difcovered, and the price of wool was confiderably raifed. To prevent fuch ftagnation for the future, Mr. Wall, then in England, decoyed one Thomas Bevan, a fkilful workman, from the town of Melkfham, in Wiltfhire, with many others, and cftablifhed them at Gua-dalajarar, where they contributed to raife the 3 . credit
credit of an expiring manufacture. Some years after this, i homas Bevan, having met with ill ufage, died of a broken heart; and in him this undertaking fuffered an irreparable lofs.
The conduct of the Englifh, in rcfufing to purch.ife of their enemies this profitable article of commerce, reminds me of a meafure equally politic adopted by the Spaniards with the fame views, and on a fimilar occafion, when, during the war of the fuccej/ion, they prohibited the file of their wines, oil, and fruits, to the Englilh and the Dutch.
A. D. 1755, government finding it im-pofTibie to derive a profit from this declining manufacture, delivered it over, together with the fimilar one eflablifhed at S. Fernando, to the Gremios but after a few years (A. D. 1768) the king once more undertook to manage both on his own account, and foon removed the filler manufacture from her former abode to Brihitega, frill permitting her to retain the name of S. Fernando, as being well .known and much honoured in the mark.t.
If we may believe Uitariz, the infant undertaking, in his day, fwallowed up the
Vox.. I. R whole
whole of the provincial revenue, and yet was conftantly in debt. This we may readily believe -3 becaufe, if any individual Were to conduct fuch an extenfive manufacture on his own account, fuppofing him not to have been previouily inftructed in the bufinefs, although he fhould have been bred to trade, he would lofe his money , a private gentleman would lofe more, a fove-reign moft.
Confidcring what falaries muft be paid, how little fcope for diligence and parfimo-ny, how much for negligence and rapine, and how very weak the inducement to excel, a fovereign can have no reafonable hope to multiply his gains.   If he is to force a trade, and to eftablifh a monopoly by the exertion of fupreme authority, all thefe evils will increafe againft him, and the illicit trader will meet him to advantage. If he is fairly to ftand a competition, the private tradefman, too active and too zealous for the fovereign, will feek out new markets, and by attentions, by civility, by acts of friendfhip, and by barter or reciprocal exchanges, gain the preference, whilft the fovereign, unlefs he finks the price, will remain with his commodity unfold. Should
$he
[   H3 ]
the price be funk low enough to force a market, the lofs muff be cdnfiderable, and no manufacturer will be able to rife ua againft the fovereign, whofe capital is inexhaustible, or to Hand the competition with him, who can afford to fuffer lofs without fear of bankruptcy.
Uftariz condemns all fuch eitablifoments, and writes a chapter to prove " que las fa-bricas de quenta de los foberanOs no flo-recen; ' that manufactures on the fove7 reign's account can never profper. Count Campomanes cannot approve them : the principles which this able ftatefman labours to eltablifh, have all much higher views, and lay a more certain foundation for national profperity.   His principles are applicable to every nation, whether rich or poor.   He would, in the firft place, diffufe knowledge by free-fchools, under the conduct of the belt mailers, to teach drawing, mechanics, mathematics, chemistry, agriculture, and languages, with the theory of commerce, and of political ceconomy; he would promote juftice and fobriety, diligence and  parfimony; he would encourage public fpirit and (economical focieties;
R 2 he
he would fend young men, properly qualified, to travel, for the purpofe of infpetting all the modern improvements in arts, manufactures, and commerce, adopted by more polifhed nations; he would render communication eafy, by means of roads and canals ; he would regulate the polls, and eftablifh banks • he would provide plenty of fuel for manufactures, as being effential to their exiftence; he would honour the mechanic, the manufacturer, and the merchant; he condemns all monopolies, and all corporation privileges, as partial, oppressive, ufelefs, and unjuft; he would encourage it rangers, and make naturalization eafy to them 5 he would diminifh the number of feftivals, prevent the abufe of monaftic in-flitutions, encourage induftry in convents, and employ in fome profitable labour all who are confined in prifons; he would Conftruct good harbours, quays, and wharfs, and caufe fea charts to be formed.with the moft minute attention. To thefe wife regulations, recommended by that able politician, if we might venture to fuggeft any additional provisions, they might be thefe few; fuffer the demand for money to fegu-
late the rate of intereft; encourage in-furanee among merchants and manufacturers ; tolerate all religions ; protect perfons and property from real tyranny by civil liberty, and from private' violence by wife laws enforced by an active and vigilant police; make commerce free, and live in peace. With thefe provifions, there could be no cccafion for the fovereign to be a manufacturer, much lefs would he have any inducement to   become the   chief monopolize Thefe provifions not having been adopted by the Spahiih government, the manufacturers of other nations can purehafe the raw material, pay freight, charges, and heavy duties, and importing  them  into Spain, make ccnfiderable profits where the monarch fuffers lofs.
' From Guadalajara to Alcala is four leagues. This city, watered by the Ile-nares, and fed by a fertile and moft extenfive plain, is one of the prcttieft in Spain. The buildings are of granite, of limeftone, and of brick, and the pavement is of fmooth round ftones, moflly filicious, all the fpoils of diftant mountains. The archie 3 bifhop
C =+6 3
hi mop of Toledo has a palace here, the work of Covarrubias and Berruguete; in one front of which are eighty-two pillars, in the other fifty-two. The churches are thirty-eight, the colleges nineteen. One of thefe I vifited with peculiar pleafure, as may be readily conceived, when I lay that it was founded by Cardinal Ximenes. The library is well furnifhed j the books are excellent and well arranged. Among thefe the original Complutenfian Bible muft command for ever the grateful remembrance of the chriitian world. In this apartment are preferved his letters, hi? ring, his buff, and his picture; but thefe, though beautiful, faintly exprefs the great-pefs of his mind, and the gocdnefs of his heart.
From Alcala to Madrid is fix leagues, in which fpace three rivers, the Henares, the Jarama, and the Manzanares, diffufe their fertilizing Streams over a Vaft expanfe of level country, by which considerable cities, together with the capital, are fed,
Thj approach to this from Alcala is beyond delcription beautiful. The road is fpciousj and the gate is elegant.   On the
left
left we look into the garden of the ancient palace, called Buen Retiro, with the botanical garden and the extenfive alleys of the Prado, well planted and adorned with numerous fountains. On the right, through the trees, we catch a glimpfe of another gate, whilfl the wide ftreet of Alcala, Stretching gracefully before us, and bending in the line of beauty, contracts, as it advances up a gentle hill, thus difcovering at one view fome of the moft considerable of the public buildings, and the habitations cither of the firft nobility or of the foreign minifters,
Jn this ftreet is the Cruz de Malta, a large hotel, to which we drove, and where for the night, after my companions were difperfed, I took up my abode in folitude, with the reflection, painful for the moment, that I was come to my journey's end. It had been wearifome, and not altogether free from accidents and difagreeable adventures; but then, with an object conftantly in view, every thing may be endured. Befides, in thefe fourteen days, I had got acquainted with my fellow-travellers, and for one of them had contracted friendfhip and efteem, R 4 Even
Even for the others, whilft thus united by one common intereft, I felt regard; but now that our journey was at an end, the idea of difperfmg to meet no more left a gloom which folitude was ill fuited to relieve. At the end of a purfuit, a vacuum Succeeds, which in lift be painful, till fome new, fome interefting object -is in view, and gives frefh occupations to the mind.
On this occafion, I amufed myfelf with reflections on the feelings of the ten thou-fand Greeks, when, having Surmounted all their difficulties, and arriving fafe in Greece, they immediately difperfed to go in fearch of new adventures. What mifery muft be theirs, whofe views in life are clofed. This appears to be the chief fource of wretchednefs in cloifters, where little fcope is left for either hope or fear.
Before we parted we had to fettle our accounts.
The coach, with two coachmen and feven mules, coft us by agreement thirty-five piitoles, or twenty guineas• and as a gratuity, we gave the men fix piftoles, equal to three pounds twelve Shillings. The ex-pence upon the road for diet was eleven
hundred
hundred and forty reals. The ham total, therefore, of our expenditure was fix and thirty pounds ; which, for a journey of a hundred Spanifh leagues, accomplifhed in fourteen days, muft be coniidered moderate.
MADRID.
A S the court was abfent from Madrid on my arrival, all my letters were for the prefent ufelefs, excepting one from M. Sage, of Paris, to Don Cafimir Ortega, who, as principal botanical profeffor, is well known to all the lovers of that fcience. I had indeed a letter to a grandee of Spain, then at Madrid, with the ftrongeft recommendation, and from him I had expected much; but I was difappointed in my hopes. I found him polite, but cold; fen-fible and well informed, but filent and rc-ferved ; univerfilly efteemed for the good-nefs of his heart, but fo perfectly abforbed in the formal duties of religion, that I could derive no advantage from his friendship. In a word, he appears to be one of thofe to whom the Italian proverb may
with
[    ?$? ]
with juflice be applied, Tanto buon che vol nlente: fo good that he is good for nothing.
In Don Cafimir Ortega I found the activity of friendship, and every poflible attention. By his permiffion I had accefs at all hours to the botanic ?ardem This well chofen fpot being upon a declivity, inclined towards the pardo, and feparated from it by iron rails, whether you are walking or riding in that lliady grove, refrefhed by its numerous fountains, and unmolested even by the mid-day fun, you may at one view command the whole of it. In this fpacious and well furnifhed garden I frequently amufed myfelf in renewing my acquaintance with a fcience which I had formerly fludicd with delight; and whenever the profefTor gave lectures to his pupils, I con-itantly attended. My firft elements \ had learned under doctor Hope, who, as a bo-tan iff had acquired fame; but I muft con-fefs, that the method of Ortega appeared to me fuperior; and I am'perfuaded that his pupils, with moderate abilities, cannot fail to be proficients in this fcience.
He not only expects them to come prepared, and able to inveftigate each plant, fo
as
as to trace it from clafs to order, genus, fpecies, and variety, but he teaches them to draw up generic defcriptions for them-felves.
The merit of the mailer will foon appear in the productions of his pupils, who, with M. Dombey, have travelled over Spanifh America, and are preparing to favour the world with their difcoveries.
Such a purfuit, in the abfence of the court, proved an agreeable refource, and, with the library of the Carmelites, helped to occupy my attention in both a pleaiing and profitable manner,
At intervals, I walked about the town to obtain a general idea of it, before I de-fcended to particulars. In my own mind I divided the whole into three portions, correfponding to three periods, eafy to be diflinguifhed. The moft ancient is neareft to the river Manzanares, with narrow and contracted ftreets, crooked lanes, and blind alleys, like thofe ftill vifible in London, but more efpecially in Paris, where no extenfive conflagration hath confumed the rude monuments of art, erected by the remote progenitors who inhabited the infant city.
To
To the north and to the eafl of this, as you remove further from the river, the ftreets are wider, and the buildings affect fome degree of Symmetry. This portion ineludes the Plaza Mayor, or fquare, which in its day muft have been a finking object, and terminates at the Piieria del Sol.' But when Philip II. removed here with his court, and Madrid became the capital of his vafl empire, the great nobility erected palaces beyond'the former limits, and the Puerta del Sol is now the centre of the whole.
It is curious to trace the origin of cities. The fhepherd pitches his tent, or builds his mud-wall cottage by the river fide, be-cauie he carinot afford to link a well • but man, being a gregarious animal, others, for the comfort of fociety, of for mutual protection, re fort to the fame fpot, and build as near to him as poffible. Cottages increafe, tillage Succeeds, manufactures follow, and the inhabitants, advancing both in number and in wealth, wifli to enlarge their habitations; but, the ground being occupied, they have no other choice but to raife their houfes higher. Whilfl inhabiting the humble Cottage, they never com-
plained for want of light or air; but now that they exclude each Other's light, they wonder that their anceftors fhould thus have  cramped  themfelves for want of room.
Madrid has fifteen parifhes, feven thou-land three hundred and ninety-eight houfes, thirty-two thoufand feven hundred and forty-five families, and one hundred and forty-feven thoufand five hundred and forty-three individuals, Sixty-fix convents, fixtecn colleges, eighteen hofpitals, five prifons, and fifteen gates built of granite, moft of which are elegant. The principal arch of tjhe Puerta de Alcala is feventy feet high, and the two lateral ones are thirty-four, all well proportioned. It is by Saba-tini, and does credit to his tafte.
In looking for good pictures, I began with los Cqrmelitas defcalzcs, taking for my o-uide the excellent works of Antonia Ponz,
to . *
and of Raphael Mengs. In the facriity are found fome wrorks of the beft mailers, of Titian, Vandyke, Rembrandt, Go'ello, FJ-beray Jordan, Miiriilo, Zurharcw, and of Andre Vacaro. The cLuftre is by Velazquez,
The
The church and convent of S. Franc'ifco tie Sales were built in the reign of Ferdinand VI. and here we fee his monument, by Sabatini, with that of his queen, Barbara of Portugal. The dome and the arches were painted by the three brothers Velafquez. The great altar has fix Corinthian pillars of green marble, like the verde antique, from Sierra Nevada, near Granada, of lingle blocks, each feventeen feet high; the bafe of the capitals are brafs gilt. There are fome tolerable pictures by Francis de Muro, and Cignaroli. The treafures of this convent are considerable.
The church of S. Pafqual has the Visitation, by Jordano; St. Stephen, by Vandyke ; ChriSt Scourged, by Alexander Vc-ronefe; a Pope, by Titian; a Holy Family, by Leonardo da Vinci; Pope Gregory, St. Ignatius Loyola, and F. Xavier, by Guer-cino; the Adoration, by Paul Veronefe; John beheaded, by Mich. Angelo Caravag-gio; and five others, by Ribera.
The church of S. Ijidro, which belonged formerly to the jefuits, Strongly marks the charaaer of that fociety, not only by its fize, but by the tafle which appears both
in
in the building and its ornaments. In my opinion it is the moft elegant of any I have feen fmce I left Zaragoza.
The pictures, although not of the firft mafters, are yet not to be defpifed.
The great church of S. Fraiicijco is admired by the beft judges; but to me the vaft dome and the Grecian arches, wholly deftitute of ornaments, appear unfinished, naked, cold, and void of tafte.
The day after my arrival, near the Puerta del Sol, looking for the Calk de la Moiitcra, without Spaniih enough to enquire the way, a gentleman who faw my difficulty, fpoke to me in Englifh, and dc-fired to know what ftreet I wanted. Upon being informed, he conducted me to the houfe where I was going, and when he took his leave, invited me to dine with him. Tliis gentleman was Den Francifco Efea-rano, one of the poftmafters general, who, in return for civilities received in this country, when he was fecretary to the cm-baify, thinks he can never do too much for any Englifhman who needs his affiftance. Not fiitisfied with thus marking his attention, he conducted me to the king's
palaces
palaces at Madrid; and, as long as I remained in Spain, he never loft an opportunity of rendering me fubftantial fervices.
The palace of the Buen Rctiro is a vaft pile of buildings, very ancient, long de-ferted, and, when I faw it, verging to decay. It contains fome fpacious apartments, in which there ftill remain fome few good pictures, but the three things which gave me moft fatisfaction were, the theatre, the great faloon, and the equeftrian ftatue of Philip IV.    This ftatue, caft by Pedro T cea, of Florence, and faid to weigh nine tons, is fupported by the hind legs alone. I never faw nor can conceive any thing more perfect, or which appears fo animated, as this orodigy of art.
The theatre is vaft, and opens into the gardens, fo as to make them, upon occa-fion, a continuation of the fcene. Here Ferdinand VI. frequently amufed the public with operas, of which his queen was extravagantly fond.
The great filoon, called el Cafon, with its antichamber, painted in frefco by Luca Jordano, remains a monument of his tafte, invention, judgment, and imitative powers.
[   2 57 I
In the principal compartiment of the roof is represented Hercules giving the golden fleece to Philip the Good, duke of Burgundy ; in a Subordinate compartiment, Pallas and the Gods are feen Subduing .the Titans j anfwering to this, the majeShy of Spain appears ruling the terreStrial globe. The reSS is filled up with allegorical figures, finely expreSTed. The antichamber contains the Conqueft of Granada. From the great faloon we go to the garden, by a little oval cabinet, covered entirely with look-ing-glafs, in the ceiling of which is reprefented the Birth of the Sun, with people of all nations worfhipping the rifmg deity, whilft the priefts are engaged in offering facrifices.   This like wife is by Jordano.
I faw one. apartment, which is feldom fhewn to foreigners, containing models of ftrong places; among thefe the two moft Striking are Cadiz and Gibraltar. ■ The gardens of this palace are extenfive, and have a pleating variety of wood and water. Had I been to fix upon a fituation for the royal relidence, I mould have cho-fen this in preference to that in which the new palace Stands    but there may be,
Vol. I. S perhaps,
perhaps, objections which do not prefent ihemfelves to the tranlient obferver.
TJie palace called Cafa del Campo has few things worthy of attention. Here is an equeflrian ftatue of Philip III. begun by Juan Bologna, and, after his death, finifhed by Tacca his difciple j it refembles that of Henry IV. at Paris. Here alfo is the original of the famous Temptation of St. Anthony, by Calot.
It is impoflible to view the new palace without the molt exquifite delight. It prefents four fronts, each of four hundred and feventy feet in length, and one hundred feet in height up to the cornice, in-clofing a quadrangle of one hundred and forty feet. Thefe fronts are relieved by numerous pillars and pilaftres, and over the cornice is a baluftrade to hide the leaden roof. The height of the north front is confiderably above the others, exhibiting five ltories, befides the entrefols and underground apartments.
With the baluftrade, on pedeftals, are placed a feries of the kings of Spain, from Ataulfo to Fernando VI. The plan is fomewhat fmgular.  On the principal floor
h
is a Suit of apartments, large and elegant, which communicate all round the palace, receiving light from the fronts, and inclo-fing rooms for the domeftics, which have light from a fpacious gallery within. This gallery runs all round the quadrangle, over an open portico, or piazza, and is covered by a terrace. The foundation of this edifice was kid in the year 1737, three years after the old palace had been confumed by fire; and to prevent the like accident in future, the whole is upon arches.
The moft ftriking feature in this palace as the audience chamber, fallon de los rey-nos, which is a double cube of ninety feet, hung with crimfon velvet, and which, with its fumptuous canopy, and painted roof, makes a moft magnificent appearance.
The paintings of the ceilings are by Tiepolo, Giacuinto, Bayeu, Velazquez, Maella, and Mengs. It it not poflible to view the Apotheofis of Hercules, in the hall of converfation, and of Trajan, in the king's dining room, without feeling Singular pleafure and delight. In the execution of thefe pieces, Mengs exerted all his powers, and feems to have found no difficulty S 2 in
in executing what his imagination had conceived. Eafe and elegance every where prevail. In thefe two delightful fubjects we cannot readily determine which we fhould moft admire, his defigns, his lights and fhades, his colouring, his invention, or' his composition; for here he feems equally to deferve praife for. all: he wants however, in my opinion, that exprcflion in which his favourite Raphael excelled.
It would be unpardonable to pafs over this Superb collection of pictures -without fome kind of detail. I fhall therefore begin with the king's apartments:
In his antichamber there is, by
Bafan, an Adam; a Noah; Orpheus; and fix others.
Paul Vcromjl'y Adonis fleeping.
Rubens, four of Hercules; ofie of Philip III.
Tintoret, Judith and Holophernes; St. Ur-fula martyred.
Titian, SiSyphus; Prometheus; three of Venus ; and Adam and Eve.
Veiafquez, Philip III. Philip IV. their two wives, and Olivares, all on horfeback-1 doubt whether five fuch horfes, fo
perfect,
perfect, and fo full ■ of animation, were ever feen together, the horfe of Philip IV. rifes from the canvas, and feems fo much like real life, that, if properly placed, I am perfuaded an acute eye might be eafily deceived.
In the king's conversation . room, into which he retires with the foreign ministers the moment he has dined, there are, by ■     ; .
Titian, Charles V. on horfeback; Philip II; Europa; Adonis.
Va?idyke, Don Fernando.
Velafquez, Donna Maria de Aurtria. In the king's drefling room, by
Guido, an Alfumption.
-Luca Jordano, Ifaac; Flight into Egypt.
Mengs, a Nativity.
Murilhy  The  Annunciation; the Virgin
and Jofeph; a Sacred Family; Jefus and
John, as infants. fli&era,   Elfpagnoleto,    the   Virgin and
Mary Magdalene; John the Baptift. Velafquez,  Argos*; Vulcan at his forge,
with the Cyclops and others. Some by Tenters and by Titian. In the king's private cabinet are more S 3 than
than twenty of Tenters, and one of Wo* verman.
In the antichamber of his bed-room is a Holy Family, by Jordano, and one by Mengs.
In his bed chamber are eight by Mengs, among which are, the Agony in the Garden; the Taking down from the Crofs; and, Chrift appearing to Mary.
In the firft apartment of the Infanta there are many by Jordano and Lanfranc two children, by Guide4 Virtue and Vice, by Paul Veronefe; a portrait, by Vandyke; and two beautiful Cattle Pieces, by Velafquez.
In the fecond antichamber are, by
Carlo Maratti, two women with flowers.
Jordano, Jacob and Efauj Bathmeba, Lanfranc, two pieces. Titian, St. Margaret.
In her dining room there are nineteen by
Jordano*
In her great hall there are, by Jordano, four, taken from the hiftory oi
Solomon.
Rubens, A Prieft; a Dance; and one more.
Titian?,
Titian, Charles V. and Philip II. Vclafquez, four pictures of diftinguifhed merit.
In her bed room, Peter in Prifon, by Guer-cino; St. Anthony of Padua adoring the Child Jefus, by Carlo Marat; and the Seizing of our Lord, by Vandyke*
In the apartments of the prince and prin-cefs, are feven pieces by Jordano; the Child Jefus difputing with the Doctors in the Temple, by Paul Veronefe.
Of Rubens,   the   Rape   of Ganimede; Marfias and Apollo; the Centaur in a robe of the wife of Perithous; Saturn; Apollo; Narcilfus; the Holy Children. In their cabinet there are, by
Albert Durer, his own portrait, and the Death of the Virgin.
Bafan, The Adoration of the Kings; the Nativity; and, the Agony in the Garden.
Corregio, Chrift clothed by his Mothers and Chrift praying in the Garden,
Leonardo de Vinci, the Holy Children playing with a lamb; and one more.
Paul Veronefe, Mofes taken up by Pharaoh's daughter.
S 4 PouJ/in»
Poujjin, a Landfcape.
Raphael, a Holy Family; and a Virgin with her Son.
Rubens, two landfcapes; four heads; and fix fmall pictures.
Titian, Children playing round a ftatue of Venus; and a Bacchanal with a woman Sleeping; both aftonifhingly fine. Rubens copied thefe, or rather, if the ex-preffion may be allowed, he tranflated them into Flemifh. The thoughts remain, but the eafe and the elegance are loft. Surely nothing ever equalled the originals; the eye is never tired of ' viewing them.
In the prince's dreffing room are, by
Andrea Sacchi, the Nativity of the Virgin,
Andrea Vacaro, five pictures of St. Caya-tan.
Jordano, a Conception; and the. Death of the Virgin.
Efpanoleto, or Jofeph Ribera, fome times called El Spagnoleto, a Magdalene; St. Benito; St, Geronimo; and St. Bartholomew.
Mengs, - a Nativity.
Murillo, a Holy Family* •
Rubenst
•
[  *6S ]
Rubens, a Virgin and Child. Titian, Ecce Homo; and a Stabat Mater Dolorofa.
Vandyke,  a Magdalene; and two of St. Rofalia.
Velazquez, a landfcape with two hermits. In their dining room there are, by
Brugbel, fome good pictures,
EJpanoleto, a Conjurer,
Coy pel, Sufanna accufed by the Elders.
Paul Veronefe, a Sufanna.
Rubens, Achilles difcovered by Ulyffes.
Tintoret, Judith and Holofernes,
Titian, feven pictures.
Vandyke, a Woman.
Velafquez, the Marquis of Pefcara.
Woverman, Landscapes.
In the apartment of the Infant don Gabriel, there are feven pieces by Jordano; three by EJpanoleto, and a Charles V. by Titian.
In the apartment of don Antonio there are
three by Jordano. In the apartment of the Infant don Louis
were, by Guido, Jefus bearing his Crofs. Paul Veronefe, Elcazer and Rachael.
Rubens,
Rubens, St. George and the Dragon; the Centaurs; Progne giving to Tereus his fon Itis to eat; Diana; Archimedes; Mercury; Hercules and the Hydra; Apollo and Pan; the Rape of Profer-pine; the two copies from Titian, before mentioned, of the Bacchanals, and of the Children playing round the ftatue of Venus. Had the originals been loft, thefe would have been much admired.
Vandyke, the infant don Fernando j and fome others.
What has been faid may ferve to give a faint idea of this ineftimable collection; in viewing which, this obfervation naturally prefents itfelf, that as far as relates to imitation of nature, the Spanifh painters are not behind the firft mafters of Italy and Flanders ; whereas, in point of light and fhade, and wThat has been called aereal perfpective, which is only the modification of thefe, Velafquez leaves all other painters far behind him.
Joining to the palace is a houfe called Cafa de Reveque, in which are fhut up the following pictures; by Giddo, Hippomanes * and
[   *«7 ]
and Atalanta; by Annibal Carrachi, a Venus with Adonis and Cupid; by Paul Ve~ ronefe, the fame fubject, a fmaller fize; and by Titian, five pictures, in each of which is a naked Venus.
By Rubens, the Rape of the Sabines; Diana bathing; a Bacchanal; aPerfeus and Andromeda; Juno, Pallas, and Venus, all full iize.
Near to this is the royal armoury, which is well arranged; the armour is ancient, yet very bright, and well preferved; it is an epitome of Spanifh hiftory. The moft confpicuoufly placed is the armour of Montezuma.
When I had in fome meafure fatisfied my curiofity in viewing the pictures, I began to turn my attention towards the manufactures; but more efpecially to that of nitre, or falt-petre, which in this city has employed fome thoufands of the inhabitants in fummer, and many hundreds in the winter.
In my way to this, on Saturday, May 27, palling through the gate of St. Barbara, I vifited the tapeftry manufactory, which rcfembles, and equals in beauty, the gobelins,
hns, from whence it originally came. I found a Frenchman at the head of it, who was civil and communicative. This fabric was brought into Spain, and eltablifhed here under the direction of John de Van Dergoten, from Antwerp, in the year 1720. They now employ fourfcore hands, and work only on the king's account, and for his palaces, making and repairing all the tapeflry and carpets which are wanted at any of the Sitios, or royal residences.
Every one knows the method of working tapeflry j that the chain is perpendicular, the harnefs over their heads, and the picture by which they work, behind them; that they work with bobbins, and prefs down the thread with a little ivory comb.
In making their carpets, they have three coarfe-fpun threads lightly twilled together, which they weave into the chain with their fingers, fo as to tie, and then cut off the thread about a quarter of an inch in length. This they find to be much better than the ancient method of weaving on the cutting knife, and their work, they fay, is confiderably Stronger.
From thence I proceeded to the fait-
petrc
petre works, where at every ftep I was confounded, and at a lofs which to admire moft, the wifdom of the Creator, and the feeret paths in which he is conftantly proceeding, or the folly of the miniller, who eftablifhed this manufacture at Madrid.
The perfon from whom I, took my information was a Frenchman, who found employment here becaufe of his fkill, acquired in other works of a nature fimilar to thefe.
I obferved a large inclofure, with a number of mounts of about twenty feet high, at regular diftances from each other. Thefe he told me had been collected from the rubbifh of the city, and the fcrapings of the highways. I examined them With a minute attention, and found nothing remarkable, but fmall fragments of gypfum in great abundance; they had remained all the winter piled up in the manner in which I found them. At this time men wrcre employed in wheeling them away, and fpreading abroad the earth to the thicknefs of about one foot, whilft others were turning what had been previouily expofed to the influence of the fun and of the air.
Fie
t v° 1
He told me, that the preceding iummerg thefe heaps had been warned, and that being thus expofed, they would yield the fame quantity of fait again, and that, as far as he could judge, the produce would never fail; but that, after having been warned, no faltpetre could be obtained without a fubfequent expofure. He thought Madrid, on all accounts, improper for fuch a manufacture ; and faid, that from his own ob-fervations, he was inclined to think they could not make faltpetre for eight reales, that is, nearly twenty pence a pound.
My curiofity was excited to the higher!: degree by this account, which feemed to offer violence to the moft eftablifhed principles of chemiftry; I determined therefore to lofe no opportunity of paying attention to this bufincfs, and with that view, procured an introduction to the gentlemen who had the direction and control of it. With them I examined a much more extenfive work at the gate Atocha, near the general hofpital. They informed me, that the number of men employed was commonly about fifteen hundred, but for fome fhort intervals, near four thoufand; this latter number agrees well enough with the
abbe
abbe Cavanilles, who States them at four thoufand. According to their account, they have had this manufacture only a few years, and have now collected earth fufficient to laft for ever. Some of this earth they can lixiviate once a year, fome they have wafhed twenty times in the laft feven years, and fome they have Subjected to this operation fifteen times in one year, judging always by their eye, when they may wafh it to advantage, and by their tafte if it has yielded a lixivium of a proper Strength. When it is too weak, they pafs it over frefh earth till it is Strong enough for boiling. Moft of the earth they ufe is common earth, and they are of opinion that all the earth in the vicinity of Madrid contains fome nitre. Wrien the earth has been a proper time expofed, they put it into large earthen pans, ranged in a row, of the fame form with thofe ufed by Sugar-bakers to refine their fugars, being a cone inverted, with the apex truncated; at the bottom they put a bit of efparto. matting covered with afh.es, to prevent the earth from falling through; on this they keep pouring water as fail as it niters, till it will yield no more lixivium.   As it filters it
falls
falls into a drain, which conducts it to a cittern; from hence it is pumped up into the furnaces, which are abfurdly deep, and by a fierce fire is evaporated fufficiently for the fait to cryftallizc. The fait thus obtained is a mixture of nitre and fea fait* To feparate thefe, they ufe the common procefs. It is well known that muria, or fea fait, is foluble in three times its weight of water, either hot or cold; but nitre requires only one-fixth of its weight, if the water is boiling, whereas, if it is cold, the water muft be fix times the weight of nitre, to dilTolve it perfectly. Hence it is evident, that on cooling, the nitre will be the firft to crystallize; this however requires repeated operations before the nitre is thoroughly refined, and fit for market. 1'\vi director and comptroller both affured me, that the faltpetre did not Stand the king in more than two hundred reales a quintal, and that he fold it for five hundred, getting a clear profit of three hundred reales by every quintal which he made. They ought to know; but I fufpect that in their calculation there is fome miftake.
Not fat is fled with this account of gains by a royal manufacture, and in fuch a fituation,
ation, I went once more to examine fome inferior officers, both in the upper and the lower works, at the two gates, S. Barbara and Atocha. I found fome in each, who were fufficiently communicative; and this was the refult of my enquiries : at the upper works, fince the war, they have employed one hundred men in winter, and more than three hundred in the fummer; they have four furnaces* and have made, upon the average, about four thoufand arro-bas of refined faltpetre in the feafon. At the lower works, they employ commonly in the winter three hundred men, and in the fummer above one thoufand, but occafion-ally they have had twice thefe numbers. With this ftrength, and with twenty-five-furnaces commonly at work, they have refined thirty thoufand arrobas of faltpetre; and they guefs the fea fait at ten thoufand arrobas. To heat their furnaces they ufe vine branches, for which they give one real per arroba, or two pence halfpenny for twenty-three pounds and one quarter.
Thefe are the facts; let us flop one mo* ment to examine them * at prefent, not as philofophers and chemifts, but as mer-
Vol. I, T chants
chants and politicians.   If we allow the quintal of four arrobas to be equal to ninety-three pounds Englifh, which is what the merchants reckon it, and the real to be worth two pence halfpenny, we muft conclude that the king of Spain makes his faltpetre for five pence farthing; and it is clear that he fells it for thirteen pence farthing per pound : but if, at the upper works, we allow one hundred men in winter, and three hundred in the fummer, or two hundred on the average, at fifteen pounds-per annum each, and fay that they refine one thoufand quintals of falt-petre, we fhall find that the labour alone comes to feven pence three farthings a pound, without allowing any thing for wear and tear of utenfils, for falaries, and above all for fuel. When a man confi-dcrs, that not only in the firft, but in every iiibfequent operation for refining the nitre, fix pounds of water muft be evaporated for one pound of the fait produced, and that twenty-three pounds and one quarter of fuch weak fuel as vine branches ftands in two pence   halfpenny, although without the afU'ftance of Mr. Watt he may not be able by calculation precifely to point out
I   275   3 '
the quantity of fuel, fuppofing the evaporation to be conducted upon the moft approved principles, yet every man may fee that the expence muft be enormous. Taking all thefe things into conlideration, I am inclined to think, that the king of Spain does not make his nitre for twenty pence per pound. As for the fea fait, I have not taken that into the account, becaufe in Spain it has little value, except that which it has acquired by carriage; and indeed, with us in England, as in France, the principal part of its price arifes from the duty which is impofed upon it. The king of Spain fells his nitre at thirteen pence halfpenny per pound; and if it cofts him twenty pence, he gets nothing by the bargain. But fuppofing he might make a profit by the fale; yet, if he fells it to himfelf, I know not where he is to look for gain; and if he compels his fubjects to be the purchafers, he is guilty of oppreftion; he lays fnares to "catch the merchants, and he gives encouragement to fmugglers.
The Eaft India Company, when it is refined, fell falt-pctre in the Englifh market for jf,2. \s. 6</, the cwt. which, deducting T 2 feven
feven (hillings and three pence, the draw* back on exportation, is a fmall fraction under four pence a pound, and the company would no doubt be happy to contract with Spain for lefs. In Bengal, as I am informed by one who was thirty years in the trade between China and that country, faltpetre, before theEaft India Company undertook to make it on their own account, fold for four rupees the bag of 160 pounds, which, at is. 6d. the rupee, would be exactly three farthings a pound; but in fact the rupee is intrinfically worth only one (hilling and ten pence, and by the company is reckoned two Shillings and three pence.
The foundation of this difference in the price of the production between Bengal and Madrid muff be obvious to every one who confiders that the evaporation, which is effected in the latter by the force of fire, may be carried on in the former without expence, by the fun and by the air.
Of all places, Madrid is the moft improper for fuch an extenfive manufacture ,* where they have long winters; where provifions, labour, fuel, are all at a high price; where the court refides 5 and where they
have
have no navigation. If this manufacture were eltabliihed in the fouth of Spain, near to a navigable river, none of thefe objections would have place; the fun and air would affift the evaporation, or completely finifh it, as we fee daily in their fait works on the borders of the Mediterranean; the little fuel which might be needful would find its way to them 5 and the nitre would be eafily transported for the fupply of diftant markets: but even there it fhould not be administered on the fovereign's account; becaufe, with every advantage of fituation, the monarch muft be a lofer, where the private adventurer would contrive to gain.
I have no doubt that motives of benevolence may have contributed to keep this voracious monfter at Madrid, and the ap-prehenfion, that were it not cherifhed and fupported, a multitude which is now fed by their attendance upon it would be reduced to famine. Of all employments for the poor, that which is moft uncertain is the leaft defireable; and little is that to be encouraged, which in fummer decoys them from the harveft, and from the works of hufban-
T 3 dr7»
[   *7* ]
dry, and, when the winter comes, turns them adrift, to remain inactive till the return of fpring, Thefe objections remain in force againfi the manufacture of falt-petre at Madrid, which feeds four hundred only in the winter, and when they fhould lift en to the calls of agriculture, employs from thirteen hundred to four thoufand. If thefe are not wanted for the labours of the field, and can find no conflant work in profitable fabrics, it is plain that they have needlefsly been drawn into exiflence, and that the population mould be fuffered to fink gradually till it has again found its proper level.
I have dwelt upon this fubject, and treated it thus copioufly, and pufhed the conclufion as far as it will go, becaufe the principle, which is thereby eftablifhed, is pf great importance to mankind, and yet feems to have been little underflood.
I tried to obtain admhlion to the china manufacture, which is likewife adminiitered pn the king's account, but his majefty's injunctions are fo fevere, that I could neither get introduced to fee it, nor meet with any one who had ever been able to procure 2 that
that favour for himfelf. I was the lefs mortified upon this occafion, becaufe from the fpecimens which I have feen, both in the palace at Madrid and in the provinces, it refemblesthe manufacture of Seve, which I had formerly vifited in a tour through France.
I enquired alfo for the manufacture of gold and Silver fluffs, of which Uztariz makes mention; but I could not find the Jeafl veflige of it. He tells us, that this efta-blifhment was made in the year 1712, with peculiar privileges, and with the belt encouragement. Each loom was allowed one quintal of filk, with wine, oil, and foap, of each ten arrobas (232\ pounds) per annum, free of all duties, and the fluffs in their firft fale were to enjoy the fame exemption.
When I began to think of going to the court, I was for a time diverted from my purpofe by the kindnefs of my friend Don Cafimir Ortega, who introduced me to Count Campomanes, governor of the council of Caflille. We called hrft at his houfe, but not finding him at home, we went to a fociety, founded T 4 A, D.
[   *8o ]
A. D. 1738, called Accidentia de la Hiftoria; it meets at the Panaderia, or Cafa Real, in the Plaza Mayor, and he is the prefident.
The Plaza Mayor, in the year 1612, when it was finiihed, muft have excited admiration , it is four hundred and thirty-four feet by three hundred and thirty-four, and much too high for thefe dimenfions.
In the Cafa Real are fome good apartments, looking to the fun, now given up to the fecretary of this fociety. They have a good collection of books, manufcripts, and medals. They are employed upon the hiftory of Spain, and have bellowed uncommon labour and attention in afcertain-ing both its geography and chronology. It is here, that on all folemn occalions the royal family aftembles to fee the bull feafts.
When we arrived, the fociety was meeting. Among thofe to whom I was introduced was a man advanced in years, appearing, at firft view, of a forbidding afpect and ungracious in his manner, he faid nothing to me, but turned himfelf round, and took up a book. Soon after this, I faw J'lim take the chair, and found that this
was
was Campomanes. How I ever got refo-lution to vifit him I cannot conceive ; but I found him always eafy of accefs, condefcend-ing, gracious, kind, friendly, and obliging to the laft degree. It is poflible that his goodnefs to me may have made me partial in my judgment of him; but, in my ©pinion, few kingdoms can boaft his equal for undemanding, knowledge, and benevolence. He appears to me one of the moft fuperior characters that have adorned his country, and one of the belt patriots that ever gave inftruction to a riling nation.
It muft be confelfed, that my firft introduction to him was awkwardly conducted, and for want of information, my fubfequent vifits, I can readily fuppofe, might appear ill timed to him. He had the goodnefs to make me promife that I would come to him the next day, but did not name the hour. In the afternoon I went, but the porter told me he was not at home. I faid that I came by appointment. He then told me, that his excellence was afleep, this being his time for taking the Jiejia, but that I might go tip and wait. I went up into a large hall, where I found many ill dreffed people
waiting.
waiting, but .no domeftic.   Here I continued for a time; but, upon obferving fome genteel vifitors going through this hall, I followed them into the next apartment, where I found a page writing at a table. Here I Hopped, and took a chair. After a time I enquired if his excellence was awake.   The page left me, and in about ten minutes came back, and conducted me into the council chamber, where I found him in his bed-gown and white night-cap walking with thofe gentlemen who had paffed through to him without afking any queition of  the page.    The count received me with the greatefl goodnefs, and led me into his ciofet, where I had the happinefs   of   enjoying his converfation more than two hours.   He invited me to come to him whenever it mould be agreeable to me, and defired that, without re-ferve, I would apply to him whenever I wanted either information or protection. Fearing I might break in upon his time, which I knew mult be exceedingly valuable, becaufe no minifler in any kingdom has fo much bufinefs pafiing through his hands, I returned no more till I was about
to
to make an excurfion to the north. I then called about two hours later than before, and, without afking any queflion, I walked up, and went directly to the council chamber. Here I found two gentlemen waiting, who had been announced. After a few minutes his door opened, and he came in, when, for the hrit. time, I difcovered that he was near lighted in the extreme. When he had fpoken to them, he enquired if any body befide was in the room. Upon this I prefented myfelf, and was perfectly fatisried with my reception. As I had feen his chariot waiting at the door, I foon made my bow, and left him. After I became better acquainted with the manners in Spain, I had, on my return from my northern expedition, much more comfortable enjoyment of his fociety, and, inftead of breaking in upon his time, either when he had bufinefs to difpatch, or when he was at his iiefta, or when he wifhed to take the air, I ufed to aflemble with his friends after the bufinefs of the day was over, when I never failed to meet with the moff cordial reception. If I happened to go to him too early, he had the goodnefs to
forgive
forgive me, and would often dictate to his page, and at the fame time keep up the converfation with me.
Before I left him, he made me tell him what I had feen, and finding that I had not vifited his favourite effablimment, he recommended me to fee it. This was the academy of the ennobled arts. The next morning I prefented myfelf in his name to Don A, Ponz, the prefident, a man of tafte and judgment in the arts, who conducted me through all the numerous and magnificent apartments which have been given up to this ufeful inffitution.   In the evening, I returned to fee the pupils at their work, when I had the pleafure to find 280 boys engaged in drawing, twenty employed in architecture, with thirty-fix modelling in clay, fome from cafts, and others from a living fubject.   Every month prizes are diftributed  to  ftimulate  their diligence. This academy, like that which I have de-fcribed at Barcelona, is open to the whole world, and every thing is provided for the pupils at the king's expence.
The cabinet of natural hiftory is acceffi-ble to all; there is no need to wait for
tickets,
tickets, but at the appointed hours any perfon, who is decent in his appearance, is admitted to walk round the rooms, and to examine what he pleafes, as long as the doors are open; if he is peculiarly devoted to one branch of natural hiftory, he is not hurried away from that with the gaping multitude, and compelled to fpend the allotted portion of bis time in apartments which contain nothing to his purpofe. This circumflance gave me peculiar plea-fure, becaufe my chief attention has ever been to minerals.
The collection of the king of Spain is truly magnificent, but far from being well-chofen, or well arranged. For intriiifie value in filver, gold, and precious ifones, perhaps no cabinet ever equalled this; but for fcience, Ihad rather be mafler of the more humble collections of Mr. Charles Greville, or of M. Beffon.
Among the large maffes of native gold, I could not difcern one cryftal; and as for thofe of filver, they appear to have been valued chiefly for their weight.
The large cryftals of fulphur from Conil mine, near Cadiz, are well preferved, but
like
like molt other fubfiances of the mineral kingdom in this cabinet, they are in too great abundance; every fhelf is loaded with duplicates upon duplicates without end.
The fpecimcn which moil attracted atf attention was a large rock, containing forty emeralds, in the form of hexagonal prifms, fome near an inch diameter, and one inch and an half in length, and many of the finefl water, without the appearance of a flaw. I wifhed for the privilege of taking away thofe only which had been abfurdly cemented on this rock; my cabinet would have been much enriched by the accerhon of thefe beautiful cryftals, and the rock it-felf would have recovered its more graceful, becaufe more natural fimplicity.
The collection of tins was exceedingly defective, and among thefe I obferved two palpable mifnomers; thefe were two do-decaedral garnets placed among the tin cryftals, each with the tin mark upon it, one in the hand writing of M. Davila, the other of the merchant from whom he purchafed it.
The extraneous fofFils are exceedingly confufed 5 requiring to be purged, and well arranged.
The
The animals are beautiful, and in high prefervation,
The foundation of this collection was laid by M. Davila; but I apprehend that after he had publifhcd his much admired catalogue, the beft of the fpecimens were picked and culled, and that the refufe only were carried to the king of Spain, who made the purchafe, and appointed him firft director of his cabinet.
The fcience of natural hiftory is almoft new in Europe. Sir Hans Sloane led the way in England, Buffon followed, and Davila brought up the rear. It is but of late years that the fovereigns of Europe have taken this fcience under their protection. England began, and Spain has followed the example.
Should Izquierdo, the prefent director of the Spaniih cabinet, bend his mind to natural hiftory, I may venture to fay, that all the other cabinets in Europe will foon be left far behind; but I fear, that his great talents will place him in fome more exalted ftation; his ftrong understanding, quicknefs, and penetration, his univerfal knowledge, and his unwearied application,
mark
mark him out for the finance, and there* I apprehend, his ambition leads him. I met with him in Paris, where the moft flattering offers had been made to him; but he chofe rather to return to Spain, his native country.
In M. Clavijo, the vice director of the cabinet, I found a fenfible man, and a molf. agreeable companion, well informed on every fubject to which he had turned his thoughts, hofpitable, generous, polite, and always ready to oblige. Bred in the civil departments of the flate, his fervices on the death of Davila, and the promotion of Izquierdo, wrere rewarded by this appointment to the cabinet. Upon hearing me praife the emeralds I had feen, he ad-vifed me to procure admiflion to a private cabinet, belonging to the marquis of Sono-ra, miniffer of the Indies. I folio wed his advice, and got my friend don Cafimir Ortega to conduct me to his houfe. Here I was perfectly aftonimed at the beauty of his emeralds, Superior to any I had feen for luifre and for fize. He had likewife good fpecimens of gold and Silver, with artificial birds in filigree, from the EaSt Indies,
which
[   *89 ]
which muft give pleafure to all who can admire the works of art. This collection is valuable, but the marquis moft evidently had no tafte for fcience, and was folicitous, not to acquire knowledge, but to increafe his treafure.
In the evening, I directed my courfe towards the Prado, which, at this feafon of the year, is much frequented: my objects of purfuit had been fo many and fo various, that I could fpare but little time for this refrefhing grove; but now, having finiilied all my work, I walked as long as I could fee.
The coaches were numerous; and the walks were crowded, all was in motion, when fuddenly, about eight in the evening, on the tolling of a bell, I was much fur-prifed to fee all motion ceafe, every coach flood ftiliV every hat was off, and every lip feemed to utter prayer. This I afterwards found to be the cuftom all over Spain. If the affections of the heart correfpond with the external fign of piety in Spain, and if the moral conduct anfwers to the affections of the heart, this people muft be the moft heavenly - minded, and the moft virtuous
Vol. L U people
[ 29° 1 people upon earth. But all is not gold that glitters; and I had foon an opportunity of forming a conjecture, that all who thus moved the lip were not to be reckoned among the friends of piety and virtue. When the prayer was over, the coaches began to move llowly on once more; but loon after this they went brifkly off, and, the multitude diiperiing, left a number of young women, attended by young men, who from that time feemed to be more at cafe, yet, notwithstanding, kept within the bounds of decency.
I have obfcrved all over Spain, that the leading principle is, never to give offence. People may be as vicious as they pleafe; it may be notorious that they are fo; but their manners muft be correct. This regard to decency certainly deferves the high eft commendation.
At Madrid, the hotels are good. They have no table d' hote, but every one dines in his own apartment, where he is ferved with two courfes, each of four or five difhes, with a defert, and one fuch courfe for fupper, with plenty of good wine, for which he pays feven livres and an half a
day, including lodging} but if he eats no fupper, then his dinner and his two rooms* will coll him only five livres, or four and two pence Englifh.
Having* for the prefent, fatisfied my curio fity at Madrid, June 2, I went with M* Izquierdo pofl to Aranjuez, feven leagues* which we performed in about three hours. In the way from Barcelona, feven leagues with feven mules had been a long day's journey. In comparifon with that flow motion, we feemed to fly.
All the way we faw only gypfum rock, wherever the rock was to be feen. The road is perfectly well made, wide, flraight, and planted on each fide with elms. The country almofl a dead flat. In this fhort fpace we left the Manzanares* croffed the Jarama, touched the Taj una, and came to the Tajo, which we call the Tagus.
After dinner I prefented myfelf to our minifler, Mr* Liflon, and the day following I went with him to deliver my letters to count Florida Blanca, the prime mini-fler.
His excellency received me gracioufly, and told me, that whilfl I remained in that U 2 kingdom,
[ ]
kingdom, I had only to Inform him what ! wished, and it mould be done for me. He is a little man, and, if I may judge by his eyes, exceedingly hypochondriacal; but he has a look of benevolence, and, if his countenance does not deceive me, he has more than a common fhare of understanding. His manners are poliihed, and his addrefs is pleafing.
Sunday, June 4, I went to court to fee the king and all the royal family at dinner; then dined at Mr. Lifton's, where I met Sir Alexander Monro and general O' Neil; and at five in the evening I went to Ano-ver, three leagues from Aranjuez, to pafs a few days with my friend Don Cafimir Ortega.
Whoever goes to Aranjuez Should take care to fill his purfe, and he may be certain that he will foon find it emptied. For a Single mule in a volante I paid fourfcore reales, which is fixteen Shillings and eight pence, to go thefe three leagues. For one miferable bed-room you muft give eight Shillings and four pence a day; and if you do not quit early in the morning, you are charged four Shillings, and
two
two pence for the half day. Yet with all thefe heavy charges, the inn-keepers are not unreafonable, becaufe they have but a fhort harvelt., in which they are to make up their rent; befides which, the expence being fo exceedingly oppreifive, no one ever comes here but by neceflity, and therefore they who are obliged to come mull bear the greater burden.
Anover, three leagues from Aranjuez, and four from Toledo, is built on the fummit of a gypfum rock, commanding an ex^ tenfive plain, which is watered by the Ta-gus. It has four hundred houfes, and contains two thoufand fouls; of which, fourteen hundred go to confeffion, and receive the eucharifl; the remaining fix hundred are under ten years of age.
The extenfive plain through which the Tagus flows, refembling the vale of Pew-fey in Wiltshire, is of vafl extent, running earl and well j it is bounded to the north by a ridge of hills, on which this village Hands, and beyond the river, to the fouth, by diftant mountains, yet of gypfum, and not like the Wiltfhire hills, of chalk. The foil of this vale, being fand and clay to the U 3 depth
depth of eight or ten feet to the level of the river, is rich, and its fertility is abundantly increafed by the overflowing of the Tagus, which in winter leaves greater wealth behind than ever was collected from its golden finds. In mmmer, water is fup-, plied by norias, at little expence befide that of labour. They had once a canal, made by Philip V. feven leagues in length, which brought to them the waters of Ja-rama; but, about twenty years ago, the head proved faulty, and it has never been repaired. The lofs by this misfortune and neglect is almoft ineftimable j fome idea may however be formed by confidering, that Anover alone has ninety norias, the expence of which would have been faved by the canal.
Behind the village, on the hills, there is a fruitful plain, whofe foil is dirfolved gypfum, fand, and clay. The plain is cut by innumerable ravins to a considerable depth, which difcover the gypfum rock in horizontal ftrata, with fine blue clay, very hard, and remarkable for fmoothnefs, ia-terpoSed between the beds of gypfum; this gypfum is moftly cryftallized, and is either
Solid s
folid,,ftriated, ftellated, lamellous, or in ftala&ites. In the ravins contiguous to the village, the poor have excavated little habitations, with each a chimney, and a narrow entrance by way of door; thefe are warm in winter, cool in fummer, always dry.
The parifh of Anover is a league and an half in length, and three quarters in breadth. It has one hundred and fifty proprietors of land, the reprefentatives of thofe by whom the country was recovered from the Moors, who are all freeholders, fubject to no manerial rights, paying only two-tenths, one to the king, and the other to the church, each taken up in kind. As their eftates are not entailed, induftry is much encouraged. It is however much to be lamented, that the lands of each proprietor are fcattered in fmall parcels in the common field, which, after harveft, is fed in common by all the parifh flocks, fo that they can not plough, nor crop, nor feed them to advantage.
Their courfe of hufbandry in the valley is, two years, barley ; one year, wheat; and the fourth, year, melons.   Thefe are natu-U 4 ral
ral to the foil, as appears by the cucumis elaterium, a native of this country. The crops are watered, and the produce of wheat is fifty for one; of barley, from fixty to a hundred; which is nearly five times the average produce with us in proportion to the feed. Don Cafimir has for fome years pafl been cultivating fenna to great advantage; it is for the Englifh market, and is much admired.
From the hills, and the extenfive plain beyond them, they obtain wine, olives, oil, and corn, chiefly wheat; all exceeding fine.
Their ploughs fhew great fcarcity both of timber and of iron; the beam is about three feet long, curved, and tapered at one end, to receive an additional beam of about five feet fattened to it by two iron collars; the other end of the three foot beam touches the ground, and has a mor-tife to receive the Ihare, the handle, and a wedge. From this defcription it is evident that the beam itfelf fupplies the place of meets ; the mare has no fin, and inftead of a mould-board, there are two wooden pins fattened near the heel of the /hare.
As
As in this plough the fhare, from the point to its iniertion in the beam, is two feet fix inches long, it is Strengthened by a retch. They have no other implements of tillage, being perfect Strangers to the ufe of harrows. It muft be evident to every one who has the leaft knowledge of this fubject, that no plough can be worfe adapted to the foil; were they to procure models from Barcelona, they would foon be convinced of this.
For cheefe they never ufe the rennet, but in its place they fubftitute the down of the cynara cardunculus, a Species of the wild artichoke, with which they make a Strong infufion over night, and the next morning, when the milk is warm from the cow, they put nearly half a pint of the infufion to thirty-two azumbres, or about fourteen gallons Englifh meafure.
Within thefe ten years they have efta-blifhed a manufactory of faltpetre', highly interesting to the chemift. To collect the earth moft fuited for their purpofe, they go out early in the morning, and obferve where the ground is wet, and changed to a dark colour, having been previouily diftinguifhed
for
for its whitenefs; this they bring home and wafh, after the fame manner as at Madrid. Saltpetre being compofed of nitrous acid with vegetable alkali, it has been imagined, that the afhes ufed in making nitre contributed the latter; but here they employ only the afhes of the tamarifk, which contain vitriolic falts; and, as the vitriolic acid has a ffronger affinity to the vegetable alkali than nitrous acid, it muff be evident, that both the acid and the alkali of the nitre have fome other origin, receiving nothing from the allies.
After they have extracted all the nitre, they expofe the earth to the influence of the fun, and then find the fame proportion of the fait, as if it had never been lixiviated before.
Near to this village, towards the bottom of a ravin, are two fprings containing ep-fom fait, which, as the fun evaporates the water, forms in beautifully white, fpongy, and mamellous flakes. The fame fait is feen effiorefcing from the gypfeous earth and clay above the fprings. With the nitre is found fea fait. Thus, in this elevated part of Spain, the vitriolic, the nitrous, and
the
the muriatic acids, with magncfia, the vegetable, and the foflil alkalis, all meet together in a manner never yet explored. When I come to Granada, I mail refume this fubject, and collect: fuch facts as appear to be connected with it.
The plants to be found here growing on the bare gypfum rock are, the Ciflus hale-mifolius; Ciftus helianthemum; Lepidium fubulatum; Artimiiia herba alba; Thymus zygis, ufed by the natives to prepare the olives; Teucrium capitatum; Statice re-tufa; Buphthalmum aquaticum, with which they make brooms; Marubium vul-gare; Thapfia villofa; Peganum harmela; Carduus folftitialis; Francania levis; Se-dum hiipanicum; Francania pulvurulenta, thriving beft on the faltpetre earth.
In the valley I found the following plants: Anchufa officinalis; Althaea ofli-cin.; Andreala integrifolia; Arundo phrag.; Adonis aeftivalis ; Aparine vulgare; Carduus acantoides; Carduus marianus; Chas-masmelumcotula aurea ; Centaufia falman-tica, ufed for making brooms; Crepis; Cucubalus behen; Cucumis elaterium; Cynara Cardunculus,  ufed for turning
milk;
r $00 j
milk* Daucus vifnaga3 Eringium commune ; Echium vulg.; Echinops flrigo-fus, which produces the Amadoux, with which they obtain light, as we do with tinder; Euphorbia ferrata; Lepidium la-tifolium; Lycium Europaeum; Lychnis$ Malva rotimdifoL; Ornithopus; Poliga-num aviculare; Peganum harmela, the allies of which they ufe in Arragon for making glafs; Rubia tinclorum; Salix alba ; Salfola tragus; Salfola fativa; Salfola Cali; Salfola frutkofa; Tamarifcus gal-ilea, which, when burnt, produces variolated tartar and Glauber fait.
The Salfolas are worthy to be noticed; becaufe they are commonly found on the fea Shores, within the influence of fait water. Their production in this valley will, create no difficulty, if we call to mind the nature of the hills, and the quantity of fait; which they contain.
Beef and veal fell for ten quarts the pound of fixteen ounces; mutton, twelve; bread, four and an half; eight quarts and an half make a real vellon, or nearly ten farthings Englifh. Labour in winter is four reales a day, in harvefl, five.   If hired by
the
the year, they have forty-five reales a month, or about fix pounds two flii lings per annum, and their board.
Hitherto I had ailociated only with thofe who were perfect matters of the French language; but now the time was come when I mult begin to find my way without the afiiitance of interpreters. My firft attempt, however, was attended with fome difficulty. My friend, don Cafimir, made my bargain for a borico, and a guide to convey me to Toledo.
Wednefday, June 7, at break of day, I took leave of my hofpitable friend, and put myfelf under the protection of my guide; with whom, not being able to con-verfe, I had the more leifurc to make ob-fervations by the way.
His attention feemed to be rivetted; but for a length of time I could not imagine what kind of object he was feeking, till at laft feeing a cloud of duft afcending from the vale beneath us, and obferving that his eyes became more bright, and that he moved more lightly over the turf, I began to dive into his intentions, and to confider how I was to avoid the cloud, which to
him,
£   3°« 1
him, as it appeared, had the moil powerful attractives. We defcended (lowly down the hill, and when we were got into the valley, faw before us a drove of carriers, with their alfes loaded, carrying gypfum to Toledo. Thefe were the friends and village companions of my guide, for whom he had been looking out, impatient of that filence which my ignorance of his language had impofed on him. Smothered with dull, I began to recoiled all the Spanifh I had ever heard, but could find no exprefhons by which I could make him comprehend that I was not pleafed with our new companions; till at laft I halted, let them get a head, beckoned my guide, and faid, with an angry tone of voice, pointing to his friends, " No fin mis ami-gos." This, repeated with energy, had a due effect, and from thenceforward I had a moft comfortable ride.
Having defcended into the valley, we faw no more gypfum, except two infulated hills to the right, intirely compofed of this fubfiance, which in Spain feems almoft every where to fupply the place of chalk. Inftead of gypfum we found clay, pure, and without vifible admixture, appearing from
the
the fummits of fome Swelling hills to their foundations; but as we advanced nearer to Toledo, we met with other hills, which even to the water's edge, on the banks of the Tagus, difcovered only quartz, with the clay evidently the produce of decom-pofed granite, without the fmalleft veftige of the mica or of the feld fpat in mafs.
The fituation of Toledo is remarkable. The Tagus, palling between two granite mountains, and almoft furrounding one of thefe, forms a peninfula, on which the city ftands, appearing at a diftance like a cone.
Having paffed the gate, we afcended to the apex, and foon fell down upon a pofa-da, built by the archbiihop at his own ex-pence, and fitted up in the moft commodious manner; there are no lefs than forty -feven bed-rooms, fpacious, neat, and fur-nifhed with good beds. The price of every thing is fixed, and is very moderate.
From a dialogue which my young friend and travelling companion, the cadet don Nicolas de Llano Ponte, had compofed for me, fuppofed to be between a traveller and his hoft, I contrived to let my prefent holt x know
[ m ]
know that 1 mould dine there, and theri took a walk to form a general idea of the city.
When I returned, I found all hurry and , confuiion in the inn : a gran jinor had arrived foon after my departure, and occupied the whole attention of the pofadero, leaving me without hope of procuring any thing that day to eat or drink. This gran fcnor was M. Cabarrus, the projector of the Spanifh bank, who, with his friend Izquierdo, were come to furvey the river, for the purpofe of a canal between this city and Madrid.
Nothing could be more opportune for me. I immediately joined company with them, and when they left Toledo, they transferred me to their friends, from whom I obtained all that a traveller can want, information and protection.
After dinner we began with vifiting the Alcazar, that refidence of antient kings, now the magnificent abode of poverty and wretched nefs.
The north front is by Alonfb de Covar-rubias and Luis de Vergara, who were employed by Charles V. The fouth front is the work of Juan de Ilerrera. The quadrangle
t   3°5 ]
dfangie is one hundred and lixty feet hy kM$ hundred and thirty, and, with the great flair cafe, the gallery, and the colons nade, has an air of elegant fimplicity.
When the court retired from Toledo, this palace was fuffered to decay, till fome lovers ef the arts, mourning over the ruins of the once irately pile, had made representations to the king, and urged him to repair it. In confequence of thefe rcpre-fentations, the archbifhop himfelf undertook the bufinefs, and having reffored the Alcazar to its priffine grandeur, converted it into an hofpicio or general workhoufe for the poor. All the magnificent apartments are now occupied with fpinning-wheels and looms, and inftead of princes, they are filled with beggars. In thefe they work, and in the under-ground ftory, which had been the ftables, they have their dormitory.
The good archbifhop here feeds feven hundred perfons, who are employed in the filk manufactory -> but unfortunately, with the beft intentions, he has completed the ruin of the city j for, by his weight of capital, he has raifed the price both of labour Vol. I. X and
and of the raw material, whilfl, by carry* ing a greater quantity of goods to the common market, he has funk the price of the commodity fo much, that the manufacturers, who employed from forty to Sixty workmen, now employ only two or three, and many who were in affluence are now reduced to penury.
Thefe people are fo far from earning their own maintenance, that over and above the produce of their labour they require forty thoufand ducats a year for their fupport. If we reckon the ducat at 2 r. 3 \ d. we fhall find the fum amount to fix pounds ten millings and a fraction for each pauper, which alone, without the aflifiance of their work, fhould fuffice for two of them. Of thefe forty thoufand ducats, the archbifhop gives, in the firft in fiance, twenty thoufand, and the church fupplies the reft; but having converfed with him upon this fub-ject, I am much inclined to think that he gives a great deal more. He certainly fupplies the deficit; and with his vafl revenue he is always poor.
From the univerfal experience of mankind I may venture to affert, that if the
aioft
§noft able filk manufacturer in Europe, who in the way of his profeffion has acquired wealth, were to feed, to clothe, and to employ feven hundred people upon the fame terms, either with thefe in the Alcazar, or with thofe who belong to fimilar eftablifhments in England, France*1 or Spain, he would foon be reduced to poverty. For health, for comfort, for profit, for population, let every family occupy a feparate cottage, and learn to live on the produce of its induftry. For want of a right underftanding on this fubject, benevolence in England, France, and Spain muft figh, and fay, " When I would do good, evil is prefent with me." Such efta-blifhments increafe the evils they mean to remedy, and aggravate the diftrefs they were intended to relieve.
From the Alcazar we went to vifit the royal manufactory of arms, with which I was much pleafed. The ftecl is excellent, and fo perfectly tempered, that in thrufting at a target the fwords will bend like whalebone, and yet cut through a helmet without turning their edge. This once famous X Z manufacture
manufacture had been neglected, and in S manner loft, but it is now reviving. '
The next morning I devoted to the cathedral, where I fpent fome hours agreeably. The building itfelf, the carving, the pictures, and the treafures it contains, all attract and rivet the attention. This ma™-
o
ficent church is four hundred and four feet long, and two hundred and three feet wide ; it has five ailes, and the higheft of thefe is one hundred and fixty feet. The choir i$ covered with carvings reprefenting the con-queft of Granada, executed in a moft fupe-rior ftile, by the two famous artifts, Alonfo Berruguete, a difciple of Michael Angelo, and Felipe de Borgona. The eye is never weary of examining thefe monuments of their confummate flail. Among the pictures are the works of the beft mafters, of Rubens, Titian, Dominico, Greco, Vandyke, Guido, Carlo Maratti, Eugenio Caxes, Vincente Carducho, and Baifano. In the library they have near feven hundred ma-nufcripts.
The treafures of this cathedral ftruck me with aftonifhment.   La Cujlodia, an
elegant
elegant filver model of the cathedral, weighs twenty-two thoufand ounces, and took fifty-five ounces of pure gold for gilding. It contains a multitude of pillars, and two hundred little iilvcr images of exquifite workmanfhip. In the centre of this edifice is placed a fhrine of mafiive gold, weighing fifty pounds; another, which occasionally fupplies the place of this, contains a ftatue of the infant Jefus made of pure gold, and adorned with eight hundred precious Hones. In four feparate clofets are four large iilver images Handing on globes of filver, each two feet diameter, repre-fenting Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, with their Several emblems, given by Anne of Newbourgh. The grand filver throne, on which is placed the Virgin, wearing a crown, and adorned with a profulion of the moft coflly jems, weighs fifty arrobas, which, at twenty-five pound the arroba, is equal to onethoufind two hundred and fifty pounds. In the chapel of the Virgin is an altar covered with gold and filver.
It is evident that this profusion of wealth has arifen from the pious donations of the Spanifh princes, out of the immenfe treafures X 3 obtained
[ ft* ]
obtained from their gold and filver mines, on the firft difcovery of America. The value of thefe donations may be afcertained with eafe; but no pen can eftimate, no figures calculate, no imagination can conceive, what would have been the value, what the produce of this wealth, if, inftead of being thus buried, and, as far as relates to any ufeful purpofe, loft, it had been employed in making eafy communications through the kingdom, by canals and roads, or in the improvement of the foil, by draining, by planting, and by watering, or in the eftablifhment, by means of premiums and by loans, of ufeful manufactures, fuited to the genius of the people and to the nature of the country. If that overflowing wealth had been diverted into profitable channels, what might Spain have been ! We may venture to fay that, if the gold and filver of America, inffead of being buried in the churches, or, which is worfe, inftead of pampering the pride, the prodigality, and the unprofitable luxury of the great, or, which is worft of all, inftead of being idly fquandered in ufelefs and almoft endlefs wars, if all this gold and
filver
filver had been devoted to Ceres, Spain would have been her mofc favoured residence, and the whole peninfula would be one continued garden.
The revenue of this cathedral is, perhaps, not to be equalled by any church in Europe.
The archbifhop has nine millions of reales a year, which, at two pence halfpenny per real, would be equal to ninety-three thoufand feven hundred fifty pounds fterling j but we may with more accuracy fay ninety thoufand ; a revenue this fit for a fovereign prince. Befides the archbifhop, there are forty canons, fifty prebendaries, and fifty chaplains. Of the canons, fourteen are dignitaries. The whole body of ecclefiaftics belonging to this cathedral is fix hundred, all well provided for. They were formerly regulars of St. Auguftin, but they are now fecularifed.
I had the curiofity to hear mafs in one of the chapels, where they ufe only the Moza-rabic Miffal, which was compofed by St. Ifidore for the Gothic church after their converfion from arianifm to the catholic faith, &c. This maintained its empire till the expulfion of the Moors, when the co-
, X 4 introduced
introduced the Roman MhTal, hut at the fame time, influenced by the lenity and good fen-fe of Ximenes, indulged the nobles and the clergy of Toledo with their own MhTal, but by degrees this was neglected, and almoft forgotten, infornuch that when I was there no one was prefent but myfelf and the officiating prieft.
No religious eftablifhmcnt need be afraid of toleration, unlefs it be abfurd in the extreme ; ceafe to perfecute, and all fects will in due time dwindle and decay; they have the feeds of mortality in themfelves, and nothing but perfecution can prevent their diifolution. When government has given its Sanction to one religion, and made pro-virion for its priefts* when with cool deliberation it has made choice of that which appears to be the beft, and has affixed its ftamp, it has dome its duty, and may Safely leave the reft to the good pleafure of its citizens, or, if it interferes at all, it fhould be to encourage competition, and by no means to eftablifh a monopoly.
In vifiting the town houfe, I was ftruck with a beautiful infeription on the ftair-cafe, and took the pains to copy it. The affinity between the Spanifh language and x the
the Italian is fo viiible that moft peo* pie who have any knowledge of the one may, by the afTiftance of the French and Latin, underftand the other. I fhall, therefore, venture to give the infcription without attempting a tranilation. It is addreiled to the magiftratcs of Toledo, and thus we read it:
Nobles difcretos varoncs
CJue gobernais a Toledo
En aqueftos efcalones
Dcfechad las aficiones
Codicias, amor, y Miedo.
For los comunes provechos
Dexad los particulares:
Pues vos fizo dios Pilares
De tan riquiiiimos techos,
Eftad firmes, y derechos.
This famous city, once the feat of empire, where the arts and fciences, where trade and manufactures flourifhed, is now brought to ruin and decay, and kept in exiftence only by the church. This city, which contained two hundred thoufand fouls, is now reduced to twenty-five thoufand. The inhabitants are fiedj the. monks remain.
Here
Here we find twenty-fix parifli churches, thirty-eight convents, feventecn hofpitals, four colleges, twelve chapels, and nineteen hermitages, the monuments of its former opulence. Every ftreet retains fome token to remind the inhabitants of what their city was. They fee many thoufand columns fcattered about, each with ** Sic tranfit " deeply engraved upon it.
The fame defolation has fpread to the furrounding villages, which are not only reduced in number, from five hundred and fifty-one to three hundred and forty-nine, being a lofs of more than two hundred villages in one diftrict, but the remaining villages are alfo reduced to lefs than one quarter of their former population, and the devaluation extends fo far that fome of the moft fertile lands are left uncultivated. This I can venture to affirm upon the beft authority.
Two hundred and twenty years before the Chriftian era, Hannibal added Toledo, with Caftille, to the empire of Carthage. From them it paffed under the dominion of the Romans, and continued in fubjec-tion till the reign of Eurico, the feventh 6 fovereign
fovereign of the Gothic line in Spain, whc* took polferTion of this city about A. D« 467. In that line the fceptre had continued more than 240 years, when the Moors entered Spain, encouraged by the weaknefs of a country, which, through the jealoufy of wicked fovereigns, had been difarmed,. and made an eafy prey to the firft who mould invade it. In three years they overran the whole kingdom, and Toledo, although better prepared than moft other cities to make a vigorous refiftance, fubmit-ted to its fate,. A. D. 714. Aifonfo VL a warlike prince, with the afliftance of Ro-drigo Diaz, furnamed the Cid, refcucd this city from the Moors A. D. 1085^ but in lefs than fifteen years he loft the famous battle of the Seven Counts, and with it the city. From this time to the final expulfion of the Moors, Toledo was the object, for which moft blood was fhed; and even after that period, it had little time to breathe before it was vexed by new ftorms.
The lofs of two able fovereigns, of Isabella, A. D. 1504, and of Ferdinand, A. D. 1516, with the total incapacity of their daughter Joanna, and the foreign education
tion of their grandfon Charles, but more cfpecially the difgrace and death of Ximc-nes, convulfed the Spanifh empire in its whole extent.   This diftinguifhed minifter, like Riehlieu in France, and Henry VII. In England, had curbed the power of the great feodal lords, had diverted them of their ufurped authority, and, in the place oi the anarchy and confufion of diffracted empire, was preparing to introduce a fyffcm of wife and equitable government, which at once fhould give (lability to the throne,, and protection to the weak from the op-preffion of the flrong.   By his advice, immediately after the conquer! of Granada, .Ferdinand, and Iiabella had applied them-felves ferioufly to this important bufinefs, revoking the grants of cities, caftles, lands, pennons, and immunities, which had been extorted from the crown, encouraging appeals from the tribunals of the barons, and attaching to their own perfons, by a papal grant, the three great mailerfhips of Cala-trava, Alcantara, and St. Iago, with all their cities, c flics and flrong places, ufually given to rhe nobles.   After the death of Ferdinand, Ximencs, appointed regent of
CafliUe,
Caftille during the minority of Charles,, following up this plan, had courted the free cities, had armed the citizens, and by their means had kept the great nobility in awe; but when he fell, inexperience, weaknefs, and rapacity taking the reins, ruined all his plans, and foon drove the people to defpair. The citizens of Toledo were the firft to take up arms, and the laft to lay them down. They chofe for their general Don John de Padilla, a young nobleman of undaunted courage, but of no experience. All the cities of Caftille followed the example of Toledo, and the rebellion, breaking out with violence, was conducted with a rasre and fury peculiar to civil infurrections. They neither fhewed nor expected pity; but, to the utmoft of their power, by the halter, by fire, or by the fword, they de-ftroyed the perfons and the property of all who oppofed their meafures. The eccle-fiaftics, without hefitation, joined them; but the nobility obferved a ftrict neutrality. The motives by which thefe feveral orders in the ftate were actuated will appear from the recpiifitions of the fanta junta, an af-
fembly
fembly compofed of deputies from all the cities.   The principal were thefe :
1; The king Shall refide in Caftille, or appoint a native regent,
2. None but natives Shall hold offices in church or State.
5. The reprefentatives of the people in cortes fhall be paid by their own constituents, receiving neither place nor penlion from the crown, and Shall choofe their own Speaker.
7. The cortes fhall be affembled once in three years, to confult on public affairs.
8. The foldiers fhall have free quarters only fix days, and on a march.
10. Theexcife duties Shall be reduced to what they were at the death of Ifabella.
11. All crown grants from that period fhall be revoked, and all new offices mail be diffolved.
14. All the privileges of the nobles, prejudicial to the commons, Shall be re-> yoked,
1$. The government of cities Shall not be in the hands of the nobles, nor fhall the governors be paid by them*
17. The
17. The lands of the nobles (hall be taxed equally with thofe of the commons.
18. No money Shall be fent out of the kingdom, nor fhall it be granted by the crown before it has been raifed.
20. The mayors Shall continue in office only one year, unlefs the people defire it; and they fhall be paid by the treafury, and not either by fines or forfeitures.
22. The goods of the accufed mall not cfcheat till after fentence of condemnation is pronounced.
25. No man fhall be compelled to pur-chafe papal indulgences.
By thefe requifitions it is clear that the commons were ground as between two mill-ftoncs, oppreffed both by the crown and by the nobles ; but for want of proper leaders they obtained no redrefs. Sometimes they made application to the throne with the moil nattering offers j at other times they folicited the nobles to take part with them againft the ufurpations of the crown, and held up to them a rod in cafe of their refufal; but, whether they tried the force of promifes to the king, or of threat-enings to the nobles, thefe promifes and
threat*
threaten In gs met together in one object* the refumption of the crown lands.
The armies of the commons, every where defeated, were at length difperfed; Padilla was beheaded, and Toledo alone remained ohffinate in its refiflance, encouraged by the example of Padilla's widow, who not only declared her own refolution not to furvivc the lofs of liberty, but urged them to avoid the eternal reproaches of poflerity, by tranfmitting to their children that freedom which they had received by inheritance from their progenitors.
The conduct and courage of this heroine might yet have retrieved their affairs, had not the court contrived to detach the ec-cleliaffics from the common caufe. Defeated by them, and deceived in their expectations by the nobles, the commons, no longer able to make refiflance, and having no alternative, furrendercd the city by capitulation to the crown, (A. D. 1522). Thus ended a war which had been carried on with fpirit two and twenty months, and thus the nobles in Spain, as in all other countries, rather than give liberty to the people, fubmitted themfelves to receive the
yoke.
voke. The whole nation has faltered by this change in the constitution of their government ; but no order in the Slate has loft fo/nuch as the nobility. From being little lefs than fovereigns, they are Slaves, reduced to the lowefl flate of abafement; mere cyphers, without weight, consideration, influence, or dignity; hot like lawful fovereigns, dethroned yet unfubducd, the objects of moft generous pity and compaf-lion; but like fome contemptible ufurper, when degraded and expofed to the derifion of the furrounding multitude.
It was not till A. D. 1529, that the univerfity revived, after the expulfion of the Moors. This feminary may be considered as the offspring of Salamanca, and although many distinguished characters have been educated here, the daughter has never been equal in fplendour to the mother. They have twenty-four profeffors, and receive annually about four hundred Students. The antiquated philofophy of Ariftotle maintains unrivalled empire here.
Before I turned my back upon this molt interesting city, I wifhed to have afcer-tained a fact which is reported by no con-
Vol. I. Y temptible
temptible authority, but I wanted opportunity.
It is certain that the water of the Tagus at Aranjuez, pafling between mountains of gypfum and fal gem, is there very noxious; but at Toledo it is very good, and lathers well with foap. Mr. Bowles affirms, that below Toledo this water difcovers no fign, by any chemical procefs, of either fait or gypfum. In confirmation of a theory which he labours to eftablilh, he relates another fact fimilar to this. He fays, that after rain the river by Cardona (that high mountain of rock fait already mentioned) is fo impregnated that the filh die; but that three leagues below the mount, neither by evaporation, nor by any other means, could he ever difcover the lean: particle of fait.
Thefe and fimilar facts, if afcertained, would point out a law of nature with which at prefent we are wholly unacquainted.
Provifions are remarkably cheap at Toledo : beef, eight quarts, mutton, eleven; bread, five; labour, from September to May, four reales; the remainder of the year, four and an half.
It
It muft always be remembered, that eight quarts and an half make a real, which may be reckoned two pence halfpenny fterling, but in truth it is not more than 2 ^4 pence.
June 9, I left Toledo.   The way from this city to Aranjuez is inte re fling, as being a country evidently covered with de-compofed granite.   In one part of the way we find the clay unmixed, but as we proceed, we fee the quartz blended with the clay, whilft the mica, as the lighter body, has been carried off.   The vegetable tribes are nearly the fame with thofe already mentioned at Anover, with the addition of excellent liquorice growing wild. Near the river fide is an extenfive wood of ta-marifk. This part of the country is chiefly the king's demefne, and is left uncultivated, given up to mules, although the land is rich, and, with proper tillage, would produce the moft luxuriant crops.   In one fpot of low fwampy ground is faltpetre in abundance, difcernible to the tafte, and visible to the eye, although it is far from any dwelling, and free from all diftinguifhable Y 2 ad-
admixture of either gypfum or calcareous matter.
As we approach the Sitio, that is, the royal refidence, we meet with a delightfully {haded road \ and, after traverfing a fcorch-ing plain, feel refrefhed by the vapour arifmg from the water, with which a double row of elms is kept in conilant vigour.
Aranjuez, at this feafon of the year, is a moft enchanting refidence. The palace is not fuperb, but it has the look of comfort, and the garden, watered by the Tagus, is beautifully laid out, without the leaft appearance of affectation, but natural, and fuited to the climate, which requires clofe walks, and, of courfe, great fimplicity; it is extenfive, and, by that circumftance, aided by the fize of the elms, which are, without exception, the largeft I ever faw, it has an air of magnificence, but that kind of magnificence which confults only pleafure. The Cyprian goddefs, with her little train, might have chofen this for one of her moft favoured fpots; but native beauty is here confined to the vegetable kingdom; few of her nymphs are to be found in this part of Spain.
The
The corps diplomatique feem to enjoy themfelves more in this retreat than at the ether fitios; they are near together; they give good dinners; they have frequent balls; and, from day to day, they have one continued round of pleafant amufe-ments.
In this fequeftered fpot, we meet with none but men of the moft poliihed manners, well informed of every thing that is palling in the world, and with the moft accomplished women, all cheerful, gay, and lively. The refinements of a felect fociety like this were fo powerfully attractive, that I laid by the pen, I clofed my books, and, from morning to night, had agreeable engagements. I came here with Izquierdo, expecting to have explored the mountains in this vicinity with him; but the moment we left the chaife, we parted; he lived with the ministers, I with the corps diplomatique. A few days after my excurfion to Anover, we met; when, like another Mentor, he awakened my attention to the chief object of my journey, faying, " My " friend, we muft quit this place, and re-" turn to the more rugged paths of fci-H ence: this kind of life is not fuitable to Y 3 « us,"
" as." Thinking however fome relaxation needful, and finding the fociety at Aranjuez, although cheerful, not unprofitable, I determined to prolong my flay.
Here I often met one of my travelling companions, the tall French colonel, looking exceedingly dejected; his gloom was manly, yet increafing daily, it feemed at laft to border on defpair.   Part of his eventful hiftory had efcaped from him on the journey, the reft  I  collected  from his friends.  A Frenchman ferving in the Spanifh army is fufficient to befpeak misfortune.   His was an affair of honour, not uncommon among the officers in France, in which he had killed his colonel. Without lofs of time he fled, and, being of a good family, he was ftrongly recommended to the Spanifh court, where, as a brave officer, he met refpect. Wherever he ferv-ed, his conduct was admired, and had he been either difcreet or fortunate, he muft have rifen high in his profcffion. His perfon and addrefs were graceful, his under-Standing flrong, and well informed, but for want of prudence, his ambition was facri-ficed to his love of pleafure.   As a man of gahantry, with fuch accomplifhments, his
empire
empire mult have been extenfive; his vanity was flattered; but if he felt attachment, it was for one from whom he had nothing to expect but what the warmeft affection could bellow.  With her he fpent every thing he had, and having exhaufled his credit in Barcelona, where his regiment was quartered, he procured an exchange with an officer who was going to Mexico. No fooner was this arrangement unalterably fixed, than his friend and patron, general O' Neile, was appointed governor of Zaragoza, where he would have been foon provided for. This circumflance he felt fe-verely, and this, together with a painful feparation, his load of debt, his want of credit, his approaching journey, and long voyage, without money in his purfe, or any refources but in his wit, was fufficient to deprefs the highefl and the mofl independent fpirit.   Had the duke de Vauguyon known of his diflrefs for cafh, he would have offered his afiiflance; but this man was born to be unfortunate.   To complete the whole, he had not been ten days at fea, before news arrived that the viceroy of Mexico, to whom he had the flrongefl recommendations, was dead.
Y 4 A man
A man may choofe his fituation, but this once chofen, it is the fituation which molt frequently makes the man.
Te facimus, fortuna, deam, ccvloque locamus.
Soon after my return to Aranjuez, I had the honour to dine with the prime minifler, Count Florida Blanca. The company confuted of the foreign miniflers, who are invited every Saturday, and his under fecre-taries. This affemblage may appear incongruous, but it is not fo; becaufe thefe gentlemen, having been well educated, and trained up In the various civil departments of the ftate, and from thence dif-patched into foreign countries as fecreta-ries of the embaffy, where they learn the language, and acquire knowledge, they have higher claims than thofe who have fimilar employment in the other courts of Europe. When they return to Spain, con-fidered as fervants of the public, they are received into the various offices, and have each his feveral department, one France and England, another the Italian courts, where they aflift in expediting bufinefs. To them a foreign minifler can explain at leifure, with clearnefs and with freedom,
in his own language, all that he wilhes to have diflincTJy Hated to the prime minifler. From this office they are commonly promoted to fome honourable and lucrative employment, as the reward of their long fer vices.
I was Struck with the elegance of the dinner, in which there was great variety, yet every thing was excellent; and had I been to form a judgment of the count, merely from the arrangement of his table, I fhould have pronounced him a man of fenfe. It is an old, and perhaps a well-founded obfervation, that no man is fit to govern an empire who cannot give a dinner to his friends.
The manners of the count are eafy and polite, fuch as evidently mark the fchool in which he has been trained, distinguished not by familiarity but by the moil pleafing attentions.
At the beginning of the dinner, I was much furprifed to hear myfelf addreffed in Englifh by the favourite fervant of the count, who brought me a difh, telling me, £' you will find this excellent." Out of compliment for his civility, I helped myfelf,
felf, but had no fooner began to eat, thart he brought me a fecond; and in like manner a third and fourth.   It feems Canofa, for that was his name, had been a Spanifh meffenger, and having received civilities in England, he was happy to remember them. As long as I continued in Spain, he never loft an opportunity of paying me attention, and of rendering me every fervice in his power.   His good will is courted by the whole corps diplomatique, becaufe he not only can procure for any one an audience, in preference to all others, but can give the beft advice as to the time and feafon of demanding one.   It is natural for the foreign minifters to underftand this matter; but the grandees, proud, haughty, and unbending, wait for admittance, or, wearied with attendance, go away without having been able to obtain it.   I faw one of the old nobility fitting thus unnoticed in the anti-chamber, and I am credibly informed, that whilft they are attending, men of little consideration are inftantly admitted to the count, and going away are fucceeded by others, who have no greater pretentions than themfelves to this diftinguifhed favour.
But
But under a defpotic government, the great lords muft fubmit to be treated with contempt. If they will be refpetted, they muft be free ; and if they will be free, they muft be contented that the people fhould be fo too f becaufe liberty, if not equally extended to every order in the ftate, muft in time be loft. This truth, founded on ob-fervation, and confirmed by the experience of all nations, is a truth of all others the leaft pleafing to the great; a truth, the force of which is feldom felt till it comes too late to be of fervice.
As foon as dinner was over at the count's, coffee was called for, and every one dif-perfed. The Spaniards went to their fiefta, and I wandered about till Mr. Lifton did me the honour to introduce me at the Dutchefs of Berwick's, where a pleafant party conftantly affembled to drink tea and fup, when there was no ball, for all the time the court was at Aranjuez, the Dutchefs de la Vauguyon gave two a week, and the Dutchefs of Berwick one.
At a ball, to which I was invited by the former, I had the happinefs to fee Madame Mello dance a volero.   Her motions were l fo
[   332 ]
fo graceful, that whilfl fhe was dancing fire appeared to be the moil beautiful woman in the room ; but fhe had no fooner retired to her feat than the delufion vanifhed.
Tins dance bears fome refcmblance to the fandango, at leafl in fprightlinefs and elegance; but then it is more correct than that favourite yet mofl lafcivious pantomime. The fandango itfelf is banifhed from genteel arfemblies, and juflly fo. As danced by the vulgar, it is mofl difgufting; as refined in higher life, covered with a mofl elegant yet tranfparent veil, it ceafes to difgufl, and, from that very circum-flance, excites thofe paflions in the youthful breafl, which wifdom finds it difficult to curb. This dance mufl certainly come to them by tradition from the Moors. The mufic of it has fuch a powerful effect on young and old, that all are prepared for motion the inflant the inflruments are heard; and, from what I have feen, I could almoft perfuade myfelf to receive the extravagant idea of a friend, who, in the warmth of his imagination, fuppofed, that were it fuddenly introduced into a church or into a court of judicature, priefls and
people^
people, judges and criminals, the graveft. and the gay, would forget all diflin&ions, and begin to dance.
One night, as I was going to my hotel, on turning a corner, I faw at a little diftance a gentleman entering through a window, but not upon the ground floor, whilfl his friend, or confidential fervant, was on the watch below. Without knowing what I was doing, I ran up towards him; but, upon better recollection, I made off as quick as poffible, happy in having efcaped the dagger, which my imagination painted as prepared to keep off all intruders.
The motions of the court are nearly uniform from day to day.
Whilfl at Aranjuez the king commonly amufes himfelf with fifhing till the middle of the day, when he returns to dine, like every other branch of the royal family, in public. After dinner, follows a fhort convention with the foreign miniflers, which being finiihed, they retire to the garden; and he, accompanied by the prince, leaving the palace about three or four in the afternoon, goes twenty or thirty miles to fhoot, following his fport as long as he can fee.
The two infants, don Gabriel and don
Antonio,
Antonio, either for the fake of health, or to keep them out of mifchief, are obliged to go a mooting to fome other diftrict, and this every day. If they return early enough, they mount their horfes, and attend the princeffes in their evening ride.
The old fafhioned courtiers dine at half after one, immediately on returning from the palace, but the more modern, at two o'clock, and the foreign miniflers between that and three.
In the evening, after the fiefta, the princeffes, attended by their guards, the grandees, and fome of the foreign miniflers, enter their coaches, and move ilowly on, faluting each other as often as they pafs.
By the fide of this long extended mall, is a pleafant walk, well filled with company, and in which the princeffes occafion-ally walk. If they are on foot, the whole company follows in their train; when paf-fing in their carriages, all Hand ftill to make their bow; and the cloak, which was flung loofely back, is held up, or tucked under the arm, and the flap, which was caft negligently over the left fhoulder, is let fall, and hangs like the undertaker's
dertaker's cloak, when walking at a funeral. It is pleating to fee the genteel young Spaniard in his capat which he throws into a thoufand graceful forms, each remarkable for its peculiar eafe and elegance, fuch as no foreigner can imitate; but when he meets a perfon of fuperior rank, or when he goes into a church, eafe and elegance are banifhed by decorum, and this capa, fo much to be admired, degenerates into the ffiffnefs and formality of a cloak.
The Spanifh ladies difcover the fame tafte in wearing the tnantilla, a kind of muilin fhawl, covering both the head and fhoulders, and ferving the various purpofes of the hood, of the cloak, and of the veil. No foreigner can ever attain their eafe, or elegance, in putting on this fimple drefs.
In the Spanifh women the mantilla appears to have no weight. Lighter than air, it feems to fupply the place of wings.
One evening, when this public walk was thronged with ladies, many of whom were richly dreffed, on the tinkling of a little bell at a diftance fcarcely to be heard, in one moment all were upon their knees.
Upon
Upon afking a lady what was the matter, fhe told me, that his majejly was patting. Had I enquired of a Frenchman, he would have find, " Ceil le bon Dieu qui paffe." Her look pointed me to the fpot, where two ladies of fafhion, well known, and highly valued by all foreigners who have vifited Madrid, had quitted their carriage to the hoff, which the priefls were carrying to fome dying chriffian. Had it been the rainy feafon, they muff have done the fame; and had the public walk been even wet and dirty, none would have been ex-cufed from kneeling.
The heat, towards the middle of June, became exceedingly troublefome; and, notwithstanding the many allurements of this delightful fpot, made me pant for fome cool retreat. But, before I quitted a place, to which I might never more return, I determined to explore the environs.
The country is divided into vallies by long chains of gypfum mountains, running nearly eaff and weft, or north-earl and fouth-weft. One of thefe vallies is occupied by the Calk de la Rcyna, a beautiful plantation of lofty elms more than two
miles
miles in length. At the end of this I turned to the right, and climbed the mountains, where the royal deer range unreftrained by either bounds or fear, except when they fee the king approaching.
I returned from my walk through the town to fee the amphitheatre for the bull feafls, and the new convent which the king's confeifor has made him build for the monks of his own order.
Another morning I walked with Mr. Liflon to fee a cortijo, or farm, of fome hundred acres, belonging to the king. His majelty has two fuch near Aranjuez; but this, they fay, much exceeds the other. The vines are here all of the choiceh: kinds. Some idea may be formed of its expected produce, by the dimensions of the cellars, of more than fifteen thoufand feet in length, befides other considerable ranges intended to receive the juice of the grapes, flowing in copious ffreams from two flrong preffes. The olives, produced here in great abundance, are preflcd by conical iron rollers, elevated above the flage or floor, round which they move by two little margins, to Vol. I. Z prevent
prevent the bruifmg of the Hones. The olives are carefully picked, and are preffed as foon as they are gathered. By this attention, the oil is not inferior to the beft of Italy or France.
In Spain they have few preffes in proportion to their quantity of olives, and for this reafon, as well as to obtain the greater produce, they leave the fruit in heaps till they ferment and rot; hence the oil grows rancid and ill-flavoured; befides, the pref-Sing of the kernels is certainly not advantageous to the oil. The Spanifh oil being, for thefe reafons, inferior in its quality, is confirmed chiefly by the natives, either at their tables or in making foap. Where morals are not concerned, it is happy for human nature, that the tafte is under the influence of cuftom, fo as by habit to approve and choofe what once it loathed and rejected with abhorrence. From this cir-cumftance it is, that the Spaniards are not merely contented, but pleafed, with the peculiar flavour of their oil, and prefer it to the pureft which ever came from Lucca. This they condemn for its perfect infipi-dity.
All
All the buildings of this vineyard are upon a fuperior ffile, and are executed, not only in the moff fubftantial manner, but with much tafte. Nothing can exceed in beauty the extenfive range of arbours, covered entirely with vines, fo as at mid-day, under a moft fcorching fun, to yield a refreshing fhade.
In point of economy I fear little can be advanced in favour of thefe eftablimments, to fay nothing of the immenfe funis expended and buried in the earth; becaufe, it can never be imagined, that, as a royal vineyard, the wine will ever pay the labourers employed upon it.
This cortijo is inclofed by a parapet wall with palifadoes, and is furrounded by a deer park. The valley itfelf, not above one mile in width, is bounded to the fouth by gypfum hills, and to the north by mountains apparently of the fame nature. It is watered by a canal from the Tagus.
Beyond this, to the north, is another valley, where the Taj una flows.
The gypfum of this country is productive of fea fait, and of Epfom fait, both found cryftallized, and abounds with nitre, Z 2 appearing
appearing every where at noon, in white efflorefcence on the furface, and before fun-rife in black fpots. The gypfum is in horizontal ftrata. The tamarifk feems to be fond of gypfum: it abounds every where in this neighbourhood, and is peculiarly luxuriant on the borders of the Tagus.
In the vicinity of Aranjuez we fee buf-falos yoked in pairs, either ploughing* the land, or drawing heavy loads upon the highways.
The Spaniards, when the fun gets high, all retire to their houfes, and exclude, as much as poffible, the light; but a foreigner can only learn wifdom by his own experience. By wandering all the morning on the mountains, nature with him mull fink, and his Strength mult fail; but returning with a keen appetite, exhaufted, he fits down to a table plentifully furnilhed with whatever is mofl excellent in its kind, he eats heartily, he drinks freely, he feels his Strength recruited, he Sleeps profoundly, and, finding his fpirits more than commonly elated in the morning when he awakes, he felicitates himfelf upon the enjoyment
joyment of fuch health as he never before experienced; but when, good eafy man, he thinks full finely that he is wifer than the natives, he is foon convinced of his rafhnefs, and finds, when it is too late, that he has been feeding the flame which is to con fume him.
The day before my departure from Aranjuez, I had the fatisfaction of feeing a pageant peculiar to this country; it is called the Parejas. The prince of Anurias, with his two brothers, the infants don Gabriel and don Antonio, attended by five and forty of the firft nobility, all in the ancient Spanifh drefs, and mounted on high bred Andalufian horfes, performed a variety of evolutions to the found of trumpets and French horns; forming four fquadrons, diftinguifhed from each other by the colour of their dreffes, which were, red, blue, yellow, and green, they executed this figure dance with Great exactnefs, and made an elegant appearance.
When I left Aranjuez, it was computed that there were collected in it not lefs than ten thoufand fouls; but no fooner is the court departed, than it becomes a defert.
Z 3 Sunday,
Sunday, 18 June, in the evening, I returned to Madrid, and the next morning I attended at the bull feafl.
The amphitheatre is three hundred and thirty feet diameter, and the arena, two hundred and twenty-five. It is faid to contain fifteen thoufand fpectators; but I doubt the truth of this affertion.
The feafl is preiided by a magiflrate, attended by his two alguazils, to regulate the whole, and to preferve order in the af-fembly.
At the appointed moment, immediately on a fignal from the magiflrate, two folding doors fly open, and a bull rufhes furl-oufly into the arena ; but, upon feeing the affembled multitude, he makes a paufe, and looks round, as if feeking fome object on which to fpend his rage. Oppofed to him he fees a picador, mounted on his horfe, armed with a lance, and coming ort to meet him. As they draw near, they flop, then move a few inches, furveying their antagonift with a fixed attention, each in his turn advancing flowly, as if doubtful what part to take; till at length the bull, {looping with his head, and collecting all
his
his Strength, fhuts his eyes, and with im-petuofity rufhes on his adverfary. The picador, calm and recollected, fixing himfelf firmly in his feat, and holding the lance under his right arm, directs the point of it to the fhoulder of the raging animal, and turns him afide; but fometimes he is not able to accompliih this.
One bull rufhed upon the lance, and, rifing almoft upright upon his haunches, broke it to fhivers; then with his forehead, as with a battering ram, he fmote the picador on the breaft, beat him down, and overthrew the horfe. Inftantly the cbulos, active young men, with little cloaks or banners, diffracted his attention, and gave the horfeman an opportunity to efcape. When he was retired, a fecond picador, armed like the former, offered battle to the bull. Flufhed with conqueft, the furious beaft fprung forward, but being with dexterity diverted by the lance, he returned to the charge before the horfe could face about, and fixing his horn between the thighs, toffed him in the air, and over- j threw the rider. The cbulos again appeared, and the man efcaped, being relieved by
Z 4 the
the firSt picador, who had again entered the arena, mounted on a frefh horfe. To this animal the firft attack was fatal, for the bull avoiding, by a hidden turn, the lance, pierced the chefl, and Struck him to the heart.
Sometimes the bull tears open the belly of the horfe, the rider is thrown upon his back, and the poor 'wounded creature runs about with his bowels trailing on the ground. In one morning I faw thirteen horfes killed; bijt fome times there are many more. Thefe animals have fo much Spirit, that the rider can make them face the bull, even when they have received their mortal wound. •
When the bull, finding his antagonist conftantly remounted, will no longer make battle, the banderillcros, or chubs, are let loofe upon him. Thefe arc eight young men, each with a bundle of bandcrilias, or little arrows, in his hand, which he is to fix into the neck of the bull; not however attacking him from behind, but meeting him in front. For this purpofe they provoke him to attack them, and when he is preparing to take them on his horn, at the
very
very moment that he makes a little flop, and fhuts his eyes, they fix their banderillas, and efcape. If they cannot bring him to this point, they prefent the mo/eta, or little fcarlet banner, always carried in their left hand, and provoking him to pufh at that, pafs by him. When he turns quick upon them, they place their confidence in flight; and, to amufe him, they let fall their mo-leta. This very often is fufficient; he flops to fmell at it, then tramples it under foot; but fometimes with his eyes fixed upon the man who let it fall, he follows with fuch velocity, that the banderillero can fcarcely leap over the fence, before he is overtaken by the bull. I have feen bulls clear this fence almofl at the fame inflant with the man, although it is near fix feet high. Beyond this fence there is another, at the distance of about five feet, which is considerably higher, to protect; the fpecta-tors, who are feated immediately behind it; yet, I have been credibly informed, that bulls have fometimes leaped wdth fuch amazing force, as to clear both thefe fences, and fall among the benches.
When he has made battle for about
twenty
twenty minutes, his time is come, and he mult die. This certainly is the moll interesting moment, and affords the beft fubject: for a picture. The matador appears, and Silent expectation is vifible in every countenance; with the left hand he holds the moleta, in his right hand, the fword. During the combat, he has been Studying the character of the bull, and watching all his motions : if this animal was claro, that is, impetuous and without difguife, the matador draws nigh with confidence, certain of a fpeedy victory; but if he was cautious, circumfpect, and crafty, if he was cool and recollected, flow in forming his refolutions, but quick in their execution, he is called cbfcurO) and before him even a veteran will tremble. The matador draws nigh,- views him with a fixed attention, and endeavours to provoke him, but in vain; or, having provoked him, makes his lunge, but is eluded by the watchful animal, who instantly becomes aflailant, and the champion flies; he flies, but he looks back upon the • bull, that he may know how to regulate his flight. One of thefe, called Pepillo, was fo active, and polTeffed fuch recollection,
that
that when purfued, and near the barrier, at the very inftant when the furious animal had clofed his eyes to tofs him, he put his foot between the horns, and with this borrowed motion, cleared the fence, and came down upon his feet.
Whilft: I was in Spain, two matadors were killed at Cadiz. They were brothers. The firft by fome misfortune met his fate; the fecond, rufhing forward with brutal fury, thirfting for revenge, hafty and impetuous, he foon became the victim of his rafh-nefs.
If the matador is an adept in his profef-fion, and calm, he contrives to irritate the bull, and the furious animal nifties blindly on the well directed point.
The part firft aimed at, is the cerebellum, or that part of the fpinal marrow which is contiguous to it, and the fword enters between the vertebra?, or where the laft of thefe is united to the head. With this blow the creature ftaggers, and, without lofing one drop of blood, falls lifelefs to the ground. If this ftroke is not practicable, the fword is directed to the heart, and death, although fpeedy, is not quite fo
fuddem
fudden. Sometimes it happens, even when Coftillaris holds the fword, that he has not found the vital part. I faw him bury the weapon up to the very hilt; but, as the point did not penetrate the thorax, it only glanced along the ribs, and after a few minutes, was fhaken out by the frantic animal. One day he miffed his aim, and the bull received him on his horn; he was toifed twice before he could be delivered, but he was not much hurt; yet his honour had received a ftain, till, on meafuring the horns, after the animal was dead, he fhe wed the fpectators that the horn by which he fuffered, was two inches longer than the other. Upon this difcovery, he received loud applaufe.
It is wonderful that this accident does not often happen, confidering the length of the horns, which in fome bulls, from point to point, is near five feet. I never faw fuch horns in England.
When the bull has at any time cleared the arena, he tears up the ground with fury; and when he has killed a horfe, if unmolcffed by the chulos, he tramples indignant on his enemy.
The
The moment the poor creature falls at the feet of the matador, the trumpets found, and three mules enter to drag him off.
The bull feafls are every week, frequently twice in the week during the fummer; and each day fix victims fuffer in the morning, twelve in the evening.
Formerly they ufed high bred horfes, and loft few of them; but fince they have adopted a different fyftem, many are killed at every bull feaft. It happened once that fixty horfes perifhed in one day. For thefe they give, upon the average, only £. 3 fterling; whereas the bulls are reckoned at JT. 8 each. The ftated expences are enormous ; but I have my accounts from the beft authority:
£- s. J,
The alguazils, the guards, and
attendants, coft per day, in
fterling,       -        - 27 15 o
The two matadors in chief - 30 00 The two inferior matadors - 1400 The 8 banderilleros, at £.3
each      -      - 24   o o
The two picadors      -      -   27   o o
If
t  35° 3
If more are required, each receives for the morning £. 6,    for   the evening,
1-7 10s-The mules, drivers, and other
expences - - - 18 iz o The eighteen bulls, fuppofe at
£.8      -      -      -     - 144 o o
Suppofe 17 horfes at £. 3     -   51 o o
>C-336   7 o
The prieit who attends to adminiiter the facrament, receives no pay.
To compenfate for this expence, and to yield a balance in favour of the general hofpital, to inftance only one day, 3 July, 1786, the receipts were as follow:
Collected for the feats, and for
people to fell water    -    - 605 13 6
Received for the 18 dead bulls 7040
Received for 17 horfe fkins  - 6146
£.682 12 o
The week following the receipts were
more than eleven hundred pounds; but the
average
average may be fairly Stated at feven hundred pounds a day, leaving a balance of near four hundred pounds a day for the fervice of the general hofpital at Madrid,
The price of admiffion differs coniidera-bly, according as you are covered or expofed, in the fun or in the made. a box for the day, which may conveniently accommodate eight or ten people in the ihade, will coft £.3 12s; but in the fun, £.1 i6j; and between both, £.2 8s* Fafhionable people take a box. A feat, if covered, in the fhade, and in the front bench, cofts js. 3*/. for the day; but a back feat in thefe covered benches, on the funny fide of the theatre, is only three millings. The cheapen: feat for the day, expofed to all the inclemencies of the weather, to rain, if it fhould rain, and to the overwhelming heat of the fummer's fun, is fome thin"-more than is. 2d.
The fondnefs of the Spaniards for this diversion is fcarcely to be conceived. Men, women, and children, rich and poor, all give the preference to it beyond all other public fpectacles; and, for my own part, I am ready to confefs, that the keenefl fports-* man
man can not be lefs attentive to his own danger, or to the mfferings of the game he is purfuing, than I was to the mfferings of the bull, or to the danger of thofe by whom he was attacked; nay, fo inattentive was I to my own danger, that, although by a Shivering I knew that I was taking cold, I had not refolution to retire.
My cold was attended by an ague, and this again was followed by an ulcerated throat. However, by the aid of don Antonio Gimbernat, an able furgeon, and mofl amiable man, I got through it, and, at the end of a month, was well enough recovered to leave Madrid, where the fcorching fun became infupportable.
The contrivances to moderate the heat, are excellent: they have mats and canvafs on the outfide of their windows to exclude the fun, and during the day they keep the fhutters clofed, fo as to admit the fmalleit quantity of light, having previouily, before the rifing of the fun, admitted a fupply of frefh air fufficient for the day, and fprinkled the whole houfe with water.
By thefe means their rooms, if not frequented, are kept cool and frefh during the
mofl
moft fuffocating and fcorching heat of fummer, even at Madrid. In one of thefe they fit all the morning j in one they dine, and this commonly is the worft apartment in the houfe; in one they fleep their fiefta after dinner; and, in the beft, the company affembles for the evening.
The frefhnefs of thefe apartments has made me often think that difcomforts and inconveniences, if decidedly intolerable, are much to be preferred to thofe, to which patience and moderation may be reconciled: becaufe, when by neceflity men are roufed to action, there are few evils for which they can not find a remedy, and few difficulties which they can not furmount.
By thefe contrivances, and by keeping within doors, the day paries pleafantly away. This however is not all that a traveller requires. If he will gain information, he muft not flay at home. With this idea, I haftened my departure from Madrid, and foon made a party for the north of Spain, taking for my companion, my amiable young friend, the cadet with whom I had travelled from Barcelona to Madrid. As I was to vifit his native province, I took no
Vol. I. A a letters,
letters, but a few from count Campo-manes, who likewife was from that part of Spain. Had I made application, I might have had many more; but thefe I thought would be fufficient; and fo I found them.
Before I left Madrid, I enquired the price of provifions, which I found to be as follows: beef, fourteen quarts (which is a fraction under four pence) per pound; mutton, fifteen quarts, which is a fraction more than four pence; veal, thirteen quarts; pork, twenty quarts; cheefe, twenty; bread, 6 \ quarts, for the fineft at the king's oven, and 3 § for brown bread, at the common ovens. Here it may be remembered that 8 \ quarts make a real vellon, which is equal to 2|4 penny Englifh. Wine is eight quarts for a quartillo, which is fomething more than a pint, or i T*T pound weight. Labour is five reales, or one fhilling, a day.
JOURNEY
JOURNEY
FROM
MADRID to the ASTURIAS.
ON Saturday, July 22, 1786, my young friend, with the agent of his family, and myfelf, fet out in two little chaifes, leaving Madrid foon after midnight, to avoid the heats, which are intolerable in the middle of the day. By this arrangement we efcaped one evil to fall into a greater, for which we were not well prepared ; becaufe, the chaifes being open, the night intenfely cold, and the north wind in front, it was difficult to preferve the vital heat till the riling of the fun.
Before eight in the morning, we advanced five leagues over a level country, covered with granite fand, and having reached the mountains, confifting of friable A a 2 white
white granite, we came to Galapagar, two leagues beyond the Guadarrama.
From hence we faw before us a fecond chain of mountains, covered with fnow, and in them difcovered the fource of that chilling blaft which had made us fhiver in the night.
The whole country was alive; all were bufily employed in bringing home their harveft. The waggons are drawn by oxen, and the wheels are ihod with wood inftead of iron. It is furprifing to fee what heavy loads two oxen will draw, puftiing with their foreheads again ft a crofs beam faftened to their horns.
The country is open, and badly wooded, although both elm and afti ftiew the moft luxuriant growth.
At the end of about feven leagues, or ten hours journey from Madrid, we begin to afcend the chain of mountains Separating New from Old Caftile; and in two leagues more, having paffed the Puerto de Guadarrama, find a good venta on the northern declivity of thefe granite mountains. In this venta we meet with comfortable beds,-and, to prevent difputes, the price of every
thing is fixed by government. A turkey Is eight reales, or about is. yd.-, a pullet, fix reales; a young fowl, three reales and fe-venteen maravedis, or about ten pence halfpenny; nothing can be more reafonable; but the misfortune is, they are feldom, if ever, to be had. However we had no rea-fbn to complain.
Soon after midnight we arofe, took our chocolate, and proceeded on our journey. The pleafanteft meal we made was our breakfaft, on cold ham, which we took with a keen appetite under the firft fhade we found after the fun was up.
The country we paffed over is little fuf-ceptible of culture, being chiefly either white granite decompofed, or the hard grey granite, refilling all the powerful folvents which nature can employ, and remaining rugged, without the leaft fign of vegetation. Yet, in the midft of this wide wafte, are fome fertile foots, either covered with ilex, or broken by the plough; and even fome extenfive downs.
This morning we travelled three leagues, %o Villacaftin, and there repofed all the middle of the day.
A a 3 This
This village contains two hundred and eighty houfes, and fixteen hundred inhabitants. It has only two convents ; one for men, the other for women. Here are two hofpitals for the lick, and for the travelling poor: this circumstance may account for the great proportion of funerals, being about fifty in the year, whereas the births do not exceed forty. This village has one parifh church, and four chapels, Standing, befides five more fallen to decay. Here we fee two extenfive buildings for Shearing the Merino flocks. For want of ft reams, their corn is ground by windmills.
In this place we loaded our piflols, being to pafs through a forefl, famous for robbers, and marked with monumental croffes. Unfortunately, my driver took the lead, and left the other carriage out of fight. We had afcended the mountain, and were got into the thickeft of the foreft, when at a diftance, to the right, I faw two fellows with mufkets crofting with hafty fteps to meet us; they foon came up to us, and the driver flopped. Thefe were two beggars, who exacted money from all paffengers,
under
under pretence of having protected them from thieves. The account they gave of themfelves was, that they were of a family which had been commifiioned by Philip V. to guard this dangerous pafs; yet, furely if employed by government, they fhould wear fome uniform, or at leafl have fome badge to diflinguifh them from robbers.
This foreft is of ilex.
At feven in the evening we arrived at San Chidrian, having this day travelled feven Spanifh leagues, or, as I imagine, more than five and thirty miles.
In all this country the white wine is excellent, not fo fweet and fpicy as that of Foncarral, near Madrid, but equally delicate in its flavour.
From San Chidrian we traverfed a vafl plain of granite fand, very coarfe, loofe, and unprofitable, although it would evidently bear good elm and fir. Wherever this fand will pay for tillage, they make it yield wheat and barley. They arc now reaping, and as faff as they reap, they tread out the grain with mules, horfes, oxen, and the trillo.
The trillo is made with planks of about A a 4 three
three inches in thicknefs, and is five feet long, by 2 § feet wide; the under furface is ftudded with gun flints, to the number of about two hundred, for the purpofe of cutting all the ftraw to chaff, and difengaging all the grain. The perfon who drives the horfe, ox, or mule, round the floor, either fits or flands upon the trillo, and the operation is called trillar.
When the corn is clean fed by the wind, it is immediately put into the granaries, without fear of its heating there, becaufe, when it is reaped it is as dry as fhot, and the country is far from being damp.
The general colour affected by the pea-fants in this province, as in many other parts of Europe, more efpecially in Wales, is brown, but the genteel people are fond of black.
Having paffed the villages of Adanaro, Hontoria, and Gutierre-Munoz, we arrived about nine in the morning at Aribah, a con-fiderable city, with eight parifh churches, befides one in the fuburbs, eight convents, two hofpitals, two royal granaries, forty-two priefls, and fixteen hundred houfes.
From hence we paffed over a plain of
granite fand, and croffing the river Adaja, which runs north into the Duero, we came through vineyards to Ataquines.
Even in the moft defolate part of this route, a plantation of firs, and one majeftic elm, ftiew what the country can produce.
Ataquines is a miferable city, and might be eafily miftaken for a village.   The cottages are low, and badly built of brick, with Sheds before them; they are in number two hundred and feventy, to lodge eight hundred people.   The births, on the average, are forty-five; and the burials, twenty, of which moft are children in the fmall pox. Here are four priefts. It is remarkable that they have eight hundred oxen.   Bread is fold at four quarts the pound of Sixteen ounces; beef, eight quarts, or two pence farthing Englifh; mutton they have none; wine is about one penny the quart. The church is built of brick, fupported by granite pillars, and is lighted by mafiive filver lamps.   The gold and filver of Peru.and Mexico found their way into this city, but, for want of tafte, this unexpected difplay of wealth excites nothing but difguft.
This country, with induftry, good go*
vernment,
vernment, and a market for Its commodities, might be rendered one of the richefl in the world. It Stretches, without mountains, far as the eye can reach; it abounds with rivers, and it enjoys the fun; yet, with all thefe advantages, the farmers, for want of watering their crops, get only ten for one upon the feed. Their plough is antiquated, like that laft defcribed. Here flocks of Sheep abound.
This morning we traverfed the plain three leagues, to Medina del Campo, on the Zapardiel, a little river communicating with the Duero, between Toro and Tor-defillas.
Medina has nine parifh churches, feventy prlefts, feventeen convents, two hofpitals, and at prefent only one thoufand houfes. The collegiate church, built of brick, is much and defervedly admired for its roof. This city feems evidently going to decay. The houfes are all of brick, irregular, and low. It was formerly the refidence of kings, and contained fourteen thoufand families. It is evident that elms, poplars, mulberries, vines, and olives, if planted, would flourifh here.
From
From hence we turned to Valdeftilhs, four leagues, over a moft beautiful country abounding with corn and wine, not hilly, but gently Swelling; all open, and deffitute of trees, yet able to bear the molt lofty elms. The foil is St ill granite fand, mixed with fmooth round gravel, fuch as may be well expected near the conflux of fo many rivers here affembling from three points of the compafs, from the eaft, from the north, and from the fouth.
VaUadolid was fixed upon as our refting place in the middle of our journey, and I was not difpleafed with the arrangement, becaufe this venerable city is highly interesting to a traveller.
Here I was fo happy as to meet the marquis de Mos, a nobleman of Gallicia, grandee of Spain, and colonel in the army, who had done me the honour to notice me at court, and now took me under his protection. He had taken a houfe here only for the fake of being prefent to profecute a fuit in chancery.
VaUadolid is a considerable city, having an univerfity, colleges, cathedral, palace, courts of justice, and one of the two high courts
of
of chancery.   Upon paffing the firft gate, you find a fpacious area, bounded by fe-venteen convents ; from hence, entering through the fecond gate, the city ftrikes you with every appearance of antiquity. The Plaza Mayor, or great fquare, is fpacious and venerable; yet, compared with the great body of the city, it is evidently modern.   The cathedral, built by Juan de Herrera, is maflive, heavy, and, in my mind, far from elegant; it has the Grecian arch, and the pillars in front are Doric. The treafures of this church are great j the Cuf-todia, by Juan de Arfe, is of folid filver, and more than fix feet high ; the other or^ naments and jewels are innumerable, and the whole together is ineftimable; yet the bifhop has not more than five thoufand pounds a year.  This city has fifteen parifh churches, with   five  annexed, forty-fix convents, two hundred and twenty-feven priefts, lix hofpitals for the fick, for infants, and for lunatics, five thoufand families, and twenty thoufand fouls.
The univerfity has more than two thoufand ftudents, forty-two profeffors, and fifty doctors, distributed in feven colleges. In
the
the year 1346, this feminary was inflituted by D. Alonzo XL; and A. D. 1784 to 1785, there entered and were matriculated, 1299 fludents.
The church and convent of St. Benito are worthy of attention; but the public edifice, in my opinion, mofl to be admired, is the church of San Pablo, near the palace, whether we confider the elegance of the whole, or the high finifhing of the baffo relievo figures and ornaments, which, after a lapfe of three hundred years, feem to have fuffered little by their expofure to the weather. In this building the quadrangle of the novices deferves the highefl praife.
The king's palace, rather elegant than grand, is (till preferved; but all the palaces of the great nobility are going to decay.
Here Charles V. received the news, that his victorious troops had taken Rome, and made the pope his prifoner; and from hence he ordered prayers to be offered up in all the churches of Spain for the deliverance of the fovereign pontiff. In this city his fucceffors kept their court, till Philip IV. removed it to Madrid.
The
The buildings are chiefly brick, but fome are of limeftone. Among the materials, no inconfiderable quantity of granite, brought from the neighbourhood of Villa -caftin, at the diftance of thirteen leagues, with many hundred pillars of the fame, remain as monuments of ancient .Splendour.
All the public walks are lined with trees.
The country round this city is a perfect garden, watered by norias. It produces white wine of a good quality, excellent madder, fome filk, and a few olives. All thefe productions will increafe, when they (hall obtain a vent in foreign markets.
At prefent the poor are numerous, fed by the convents, and manifeft the wretch -ednefs of this once flourishing metropolis.
It is fallen indeed, but on the projected canal we may evidently read, refurgam. This undertaking, once regarded like the wild projects of the giants, will, in all probability, and at no diftant period, be accomplished, provided Spain has the wif-dotn not to be engaged in war.
The canal begins at Segovia, fixteen
leagues
{   3*7 3
leagues north of Madrid, and is feparated from the fouthern canal by the chain of mountains which we paffed at Guadarama. From Segovia, quitting the Erefma, it croffes the Pifuerga, near VaUadolid, at the junction of that river with the Duero, then leaving Palencia, with the Carrion to the right, till it has croffed that river below Ilerrera, it approaches once more the Pifuerga, and near Herrera, twelve leagues from Reinofa, receiving water from that river in its courfe, it arrives at Golmir, from whence, in lefs than a quarter of a league, to Reinofa, there is a fall of a thoufand Spanifh feet. At Reinofa is the communication with the canal of Arragon, which unites the Mediterranean to the Bay of Bifcay; and from Reinofa to the Suanzes, which is three leagues, there is a fall of three thoufand feet.
Above Palencia is a branch going weft-ward, through Beceril de Campos, Rio Seco, and Benevente, to Zamora, making this canal of Caftille, in its whole extent, one hundred and forty leagues.
They have already completed twenty leagues of it, from Reinofa to Rio Seco; S which,
which, with twenty-four locks, three bridges for aqueducts, and one league and an half of open call through a high mountain, has coll thirty-eight millions of reales, or three hundred and eighty thoufand pounds fterling; and this, fuppofing the twenty leagues equal to eighty-eight miles, Is £. 4,318 per mile. For work executed in fo complete a manner, this certainly is not extravagant.
To expedite this arduous undertaking, they employ two thoufand foldiers, and as many peafants. The former receive three reales a day, befides their ufual pay, that is when they work by the day; but they work moftly by the piece. To regulate the prices, they have three tables, ill, for the quality ; 2d, the depth; 3d, the diftance; all founded on experiments. The qualities are, I ft, fand; 2d, foft clay; 3d, hard clay; 4th. loofe fchift; 5th, hard fchift, and folid rock; of which, they make three diftinc-tions, viz. fuch as can be worked, ift, by the pick and fhovel * 2d, by wedges and fledges; 3d, by boring and by blaft. This laft again is fubject to distinctions,
Thf
The canal is nine feet deep, twenty feet wide at bottom, and fifty-fix at top.
When this canal is perfected, which may be in lefs than thirty years, the world, perhaps, will have nothing of the kind to be compared with it, either in point of workmanfhip, of extent, or of utility. The two firft fpeak for themfelyes; the laft can be obvious only to thofe who have feen this country. To fay nothing of coals, to be carried from the Afturias to the fouth, and of manufactures which might then be eftablifhed in Caftille, and find a ready market by the Bay of Bifcay, the excellent wines of that fandy province, now fcarcely paying for cultivation, would not only find a ready fale, but would be in the higheft eftimation the oils would fetch their price, both for the table and for foap; and the corn, which in abundant feafons proves the ruin of the farmer, would be a fource of opulence, and ftimulate his induftry to frefh exertions.
For want of fuch an outlet, provinces de-figned by nature to rejoice in plenty, and to furniih abundance for exportation, are often reduced to famine, and obliged to purchafe
Vol. I. B b corn
corn from the furrounding nations. Considering fuch undertakings, and feeing them either languifh for want of men and money, or not carried on with a Spirit anfwerable to their vail importance, how natural is it to execrate the madnefs and folly of mankind, fo often engaged in profecuting unprofitable wars, from motives of covetoufnefs, or from the moft idle jealoufy and groundlefs apprehensions ; fpending thofe treafures for the moleffation and abafement of their neighbours, which might be more profitably employed for their own emolument and exaltation, if expended in agricultural improvements, and the general fomentation of their induilry. , The whole annual expence of this canal is not equal to the construction of one Ship of the line. Nay, we may venture to aflert, that the men and money abfurdly fpent by Spain in the pro-fecution of the laft war, would have finiilied forty canals equal to that I have been defcribing.   The difcufiion would be long, but the proof is eafy.    Money is foon reckoned, if we omit the multiplied calculations needful to eftimate its value according to the various channels in which it
flows,
flows, and the purpofes for which it is employed ; but men are eafily overlooked; yet not one of thefe who falls in the vigour of his age, can be reckoned, even in the firft inftance, at lefs than forty pounds, without taking into confideration the contingent injury in the lofs of a fubject. who might have lived to become the parent of a numerous offspring.
Before I left VaUadolid I enquired into the price of provifions. In this city, beef and mutton are twelve quarts the pound of fixteen ounces 3 and bread is five quarts? wine is about a halfpenny the Englifh pint. It muft always be remembered, that eight quarts and an half make a real.
I cannot quit this city without making mention of a practice which the marquis de Mos affures me is common in Gallicia» He tells me, that in pleurifies they give the feeds of ivy, bruifed, to the quantity of two tea fpoonfulls, repeated every eight hours, and that this fimple medicine has been found to be infallible. I report it upon his authority, having never fince had occafion to prefcribe it.
Thurfday, July 27, we left VaUadolid at B b 2 five
five in the morning, and afcending gradually a limeftone hill for about half a league, we came to an extenfive plain, fertile in corn, but not well cultivated; yet fome of the farmers upon this rich loomy foil, this mixture of clay, fand, and calcareous earth, have moft luxuriant crops. The thiftles are rampant, more than eight feet high. The country is open, and void of trees; excepting near one little convent, which enjoys the extenfive fhade of a few lofty elms.
Before noon, we came to a village, com-prifing feventy miferable cottages, called la Mudarra, built upon a fine limeftone rock. Its fituation is healthy; yet thefe feventy families contain only one hundred and twenty fouls.
As we advance along the plain, towards Medina de Rio Seco, at the diftance of about feven or eight leagues, the limeftone rock becomes more deftitute of foil.
Medina de Rio Seco already feels the influence of the canal, for though it ftill wears the face of mifery in its buildings, yet the people feem more alert, and farther removed from that torpid indolence fo vifi-
ble
ble in other villages of Old and New Caftille. Tracje is increafing, and manufactures begin to flourifli, particularly thofe of ferge. It is to be lamented, that the filk ribbon weavers fhould wafte their labour, by not adopting the modern improvement of the loom. The unrounding country abounds with corn and wine, and improves in the cultivation of the olive. All thefe commodities, with the manufactures, and the eafy tranfport by the canal, have invited merchants to open houfes, and to bring new capitals into circulation here.
Medina had formerly feven thoufand houfes; it has now only twelve hundred; but, as thefe contain more than eight thoufand fouls, it is evident that trade is brifk. Here are four convents for men, two for women, three parifh churches, with forty priefts. The churches are all good; that of S. Maria is elegant, with a lofty roof, highly finifhed, and fupported by well proportioned pillars. In this church the Cuf-todia is folid filver, and weighs more than one hundred weight. The church of St. Francifco is rich in relics; but this, it muft be confeffed, is a perifhable commodity.
B b 3 From
From hence to Manfilla, eleven leagues and an half, the country is all level, open, rich, and productive of both corn and wine; abounding in villages, and occupied by huf-bandmen. The route we took was through Cedinos, Vecilla, A'hires, Matallana, and Santas Marias. The former of thefe includes an hundred mud-wall cottages, and two churches; Vecilla, one hundred and fixty fuch miferable habitations, with two churches, and fix priefts. This belongs to the Count of Altamira, a grandee of Spain. Mayorga has now only fix hundred and fifty fuch cottages; and although formerly it numbered feventeen thoufand, no traces of thefe remain. It is divided into eight parifhes, and maintains twenty-four priefts. Here are three convents, and one hofpital. This town belongs to the young dutchefs de Benevente. Ahires is wretched ; Matallana, more fo; Santas Marias, but little better; and Manfilla has no room to boaft. All are equally of mud wall, and mouldering away.
The trillo is every where at work, fome with oxen, others with mules. The plough refembles the laft mentioned, and exhibits
a want
a want of intercourfe with more enlightened provinces. The cart wheels have neither nave, nor fpokes, nor felloes; but are only planks fattened together, and turning with the axis. This ufually is eight inches in diameter. About Manfilla the wheels are bound with iron. We ftill fee only oxen in the teams.
Manfilla was once fortified, as may be feen by the round towers ftill remaining. It contains four hundred families, one convent, and one hermitage. Here the dutchefs of Alba appoints the magiflrates.
From Manfilla the face of the country changes. On crofTing the Ezla we find meadows, inclofures, and a variety of trees, chiefly poplars, elms, and walnuts; then pafhng among hills compofed of fand, clay, and gravel, rounded by fluctuating waters, we fall down upon a rich valley, at the head of which Hands Leon, protected by high mountains from the north.
We went immediately to the houfe of don Felix Getino, a canon of the cathedral, nearly related to my young friend, where we met with a moft hofpitable reception.
B b 4 Leon
Leon contains fifteen hundred families, with fix thoufand one hundred and feventy fouls, diftributed in thirteen parilhes, with four hundred and twenty priefts, a cathedral, two royal foundations of S. Ifidro and S. Marcos, befides nine convents, with a Beateria for nuns who are not fubjedted to vows, a few' hermitages, and fome hofpital s.
The cathedral is defervedly admired for its lightnefs and elegance. It is a gothic Structure, with a lofty fpire, highly finished, not only with baffo relievo ornaments, but with open work tranfmitting light, and beautiful in its kind, refembling the fineft point lace or filigree. The windows are all of painted glafs. In the facrifty is a filver crucifix, with its canopy fupported by four Corinthian pillars, near feven feet high, the whole of filver. The filver mount on which it ftands is divided into compartments, each exhibiting fome reprefentation of the Paflion in baflb relievo. The cufto-dia is more than fix feet high, made of filver, and elegantly wrought with images. The bifhop's revenue is 30,000 ducats, or about £.3,295 fterling, per annum. The x canons
canons are forty, including always the king and the counts of Altamira.
When I came back from viewing the cathedral, I faw clearly that I had done fomething wrong, becaufe our old canon, who had received me with a fmile, now regarded me with horror, and even my young friend looked frighted. The fact: was briefly this: having flit my nail, I inadvertently took out my knife, as I was walking, and paired it even. Had I been confcious of what I did, I mould never have conceived that they, who fpit in their churches without referve, could have been offended. But before my return, the report had reached the good old man, and made him tremble; yet, upon my folemn declaration that I meant no infult, he became gradually calm, arid, after fome time, renamed his wonted fmile.
The religious houfe, or, Cafa real de San Ijidroy has fixteen canons regular of St. Au-guftin. In their church are depofited the bones of the patron faint, in a large filver urn, and the bodies, of all the kings of Leon, from Alfonzo IV. fur named the Monk, to Bermudo IJI. the laft: king of
Leon,
Leon, together with the afhes of Ferdinand I. in whom the crowns of Caftille and Leon were firft united, and who died in the year 1067. Their library contains many valuable manufcripts.
The Cafa real de San Marcos has a prior and fixteen canons, fupported by a revenue of eighty thoufand ducats, or about £.8,789, per annum. The front of this religious houfe merits particular attention by all who vifit Leon. Various pieces of fculp-ture in baffo relievo are elegant, and highly finiihed. Two of thefe reprefent the Crucifixion, and the Taking down from the crofs. But one of the moft ftriking figures, with refpect to defign, execution, and ex-preffion, is San Jago on horfeback.
All the churches in this city, like thofe of Arragon, are crowded with pillars, and thefe pillars, nearly hid with moff pre-poflerous ornaments, fuch as vines, cherubs, angels, and birds, which are covered entirely with gold.
Leon, deflitute of commerce, is fupported by the church. Beggars abound in every ftreet, all fed by the convents, and at the bifhop's palace.   Flere they get their
breakfaft,
1 379 1 breakfaft, there tbey dine. Befides food, at San Marcos they receive every other day, the men a farthing, the women and children half as much. On this provifion they live, they marry, and they perpetuate a mi-ferable race. An hofpicio, or general work-houfe, is almoft ready to receive them; but fhould alms continue to be thus diftributed, precifely the fame number of lazy wretches will in time rife up to occupy the place of thofe who fhall be fent into confinement.
The furrounding country is bold and beautiful, but ill cultivated. It is watered by the Torio and Vernefga, two little Streams, which unite below the city. Thefe in fummer might be called brooks, in winter they are torrents.
With the rolling flones, hurried down from the mountains by the impetuous raging of thefe torrents on the fudden melting of the winter's fnow, a considerable part of the wall is built; forming a valuable collection for the natural iff, who wifhes without labour to invefligate the nature of the country. Among thefe are found limeftone, fchift, and grit.  All thefe
prove.
prove, by their extraneous foffils, that the hills, from whence they come, were once in a Hate of diffolution, and covered by the fea. The beft marble is brought from Nozedo, Robles, and Lillo. The two firft are diftant five, the latter eleven leagues from Leon.
All the corn mills of this country have horizontal water wheels-Butchers meat is nearly half the price which is given at Madrid.
Beef fells for nine quarts the pound, of twenty ounces; which is a fraction under two pence fterling the pound of fixteen ounces.
Mutton, ten quarts ditto. Bread, four quarts (or ij penny) the pound of fixteen ounces; ditto mixed with rye, 2l quarts, or    of a penny ditto.
Labour is three reales, or a fmall fraction more than feven pence a day ; but artifans get double.
Tuefday, ill: Auguft, having fpent three days with our hofpitable canon, we left Leon; my young friend and his attendant mounted on horfes fent for him by his father, I on a good hired mule.   We were
efcorted
t 381. ]
efcorted by fome gentlemen who were related to my friend.
Our intention was to lleep at a convent, in a little village five leagues from Leon, called T?rras de las Duenas. For this pur-pofe we began our journey at four in the afternoon, palling along the valley by the fide of the Vernefga, and afcending towards the mountains, yet meeting nothing remarkable but large tumblers of grit or fandflone, till eleven in the evening, when, after riding fmartly feven hours, we fell down upon our deffined village.
Unfortunately for us, the nuns were gone to bed, and the porter would neither give us admittance, nor affile us with provifions. Having counted upon being, as ufual, entertained for money at the convent, we had brought nothing with us; and inftead of lively converfation with the lady abbefs, who is famed for the fprightly fa)-lies of her wit, inftead of good wine, preceded by a good fupper, and followed by good beds, we were obliged to retire without any thing to eat or drink but chocolate, to a miferable hovel in the village,
called
called a pofada, where we however found two beds.
This adventure, from one circumfiance, gave me peculiar pleasure, as thereby I had occafion to admire the generofity of my Spanifh friends, who all occupied one bed, and left the other wholly to the flranger.
Early the next morning we took our chocolate, and purfued our journey, winding through the gorges of the mountains, and defcending with the Luna, a little river, famous for its trout.
Thefe mountains are of fchift, capped with marble.
As we advance, the rocks become more bold, the fchift difappears, and the marble rifes to the height of three or four hundred feet, often perpendicular, but fometimes overhanging to a considerable extent.
In every little opening of the mountains, wherever a valley fpreads wide enough to afford pasture for fome cows, we find a village of ten, fifteen, or twenty houfes; their numbers always bearing proportion to the quantity of food; and as the human race every where makes strong efforts to increafe, we find the inhabitants climbing
the
the fleep afcent, to cultivate every fpot where the plough can pafs.
Here molt evidently their numbers mull be limited, becaufe their food is fo; and were they to eflablifh a community of goods, they mull: either caff, lots who mould emigrate, or they mull all flarve to- ' gether; unlefs they chofe rather to agree that two only in every family mould marry, and when a cottage became vacant, could find means to fettle which of the expectants fhould unite to take poffelfion of it.
This fubject will be renewed whenever occafion fhall prefent; but I have chofen thus briefly to difcufs it in this place, becaufe it is here confined within narrow limits, and being, like the firft elements of every fcience, eafily comprehended, may aflifl us in purfuing our refearches on the extent of population, where its combinations are not quite fo obvious.
In thefe little vallies flocks of goats fhew the nature of the adjacent country.
After winding among thefe bare and rugged mountains nearly five leagues, expofed to a fcorching fun, almoft fuffocated 5 with
with heat, weary, and ready to faint for want of air, we came under the fhadow of a great rock, which, on account of its reviving frefhnefs, we quitted with reluctance, and called to mind a poetic image, the force of which I had never felt before. The deepnefs of the lhade, its vait extent, the diftance from reflected heat, together with that degree of humidity which is needful to abforb and make latent the heat of the furrounding atmofphere, all this, and more than this, we find in one poetic image, " The fhadow of a great rock in a weary land.
In more ways than one this rock gave employment to my thoughts. It was a orrit or fandftone, remarkable for whitenefs and the firmnefs of its grain. Had it been either fchift or limeftone, or had I found granite in the vicinity, I mould not have been particularly ftruck with this rock; but upon finding grit, a with arifes in the mind to know from whence it came. That grit originates in decompefed granite I have no doubt; but then near to thefe mountains I can find no granite. This difficulty is not confined to the rock, under
whofe
whofe made thefe reflections rofe up in my mind, it equally occurs in every country, but in no one is more linking than upon the Wiltfhire downs, more efpecially near Aubury and Kennet, in the neighbourhood of Marlborough, where the great rolling Hones of grit, called farcen and greywhe-thers, cover the chalk to a great extent. Such phainomena will be the fubject of a future difcuflion; but, for the prefent, it is time to turn our back upon this rock.
About the middle of the day we came to a village called Truovana, confifting of twenty-two miferable cottages, belonging to the monks of the Efcurial. We dined at their farm-houfe, where bread is provided for their Shepherds. The flock conlifts of twenty-eight thoufand fheep, which in the fummer feed upon thefe mountains, but in the winter travel to the fouth. To tend this flock they employ two hundred fhep-herds; and for the purpofe of feeding thefe, they have a little mill with an horizontal water-wheel, working day and night, and an oven which is never cold, baking bread
Vol. I. C c in
in the morning for the Shepherds, and in the evening for their dogs.
The fituation of this village is moft romantic. It is a plain of no great extent, well wcoded, well watered, and Shut in bv high mountains of marble, whofe bare and rugged cliffs form a linking; contraff with the rich verdure of the meadows, and of luxuriant crops of corn, whilft the images reflected from the fmooth furface of a river, gliding near the village, give a brilliancy and perfection to the whole.
The elm, the afh, the poplar, and wild berberries, appear to be the trees moft fuited to the foil.
The natural beauties of the place made amends for the coarfenefs of our fare. Had we proceeded, half a mile, to Villafetano, we Should have been not only received with hofpitality, but entertained with elegance, by don Ignatio Horenzano, lord of the village.
His habitation is rather neat than magnificent, but the fituation is perfectly enchanting; much refembling Truovana, only it is upon a larger fcale.   It is not pofhble
to
to fee meadows better watered, or richer than thofe of this delightful vale.
Notwithstanding we had fo lately dined, we were compelled to eat fome cakes, with fweetmeats, and to drink fome wine. When we had finished our refreshment, we found it difficult to get away without taking up our lodging for the night; but, as it was not conhSlent with our plan to Stay, we haStened our departure, and proceeding along a valley, which is no where wider than four hundred yards, and Shut in by high mountains, we followed the winding of a river to Piedrafita, where, in the houfe of don Cortheca Garcia de Atocha, we had no reafon to repent our having declined the preffing invitations at Villafetano.
Piedrafita, a little village containing forty-fix houfes, is fed by a little valley, and furrounded on every fide by mountains. The fhepherds dogs are large and Strong, well qualified to engage the wolves, which are here in great abundance. They wear a fpiked collar to protect the neck, and to prevent the wolf from fixing on that mortal part.
It is curious to fee the women churning, C c 2 as
as they walk along, or mind chatting with a neighbour, each with a leather bag, in which they make the cream till the butter is completely formed.
From this village we did not take the direct: road to Oviedo, being diverted from the ufual route by a work of piety, to be performed in compliance with a vow made by the mother of my friend with her departing breath. This fon, her firft born, was then at Barcelona with his regiment, but although abfent me bound him with a folemn vow, that before he mould return into his native province, he fhould prof-trate himfelf before the altar of nojlra Se-nor a de Carrafconte, where he fhould pay four reales for a mafs, and give twenty to the poor. To fulfil this intention, we afcended many miles among the mountains, till we reached a little village almoft loft in clouds, from whence, having accomplifhed the fond parent's vow, we returned by the fame way, about one league, to find the proper road.
Among thefe mountains I was exceedingly fm-prifed to fee, on the third of Au-guft, fnow ftill remaining undiffolved, and
not
not far removed from luxuriant crops of corn then fully ripe, and bending to the fickle.
All the dogs in the little villages through which we pafs have fpiked collars. Thefe are abfolutely needful, becaufe wolves abound in thefe elevated regions. In winter they become ravenous and bold; but even in fummer they commit frequent ravages among the flocks by night, if either the Shepherd or his dog are fleeping foundly.
The bafis of all thefe mountains is fchift, every where covered with limeftone, chiefly blue. The rocks are wonderfully rent; the ftrata are inclined in every poftible direction; and the whole country appears to have been convulfed. Sometimes the fchift appears elevated above the level of the adjacent mountains, ftill capped with its limeftone ; at other times the inferior mountains feem to be all of limeftone, yet in the deep ravins they difcover fchift; but upon none of them do we find the leaft trace of granite.
At the Puerto de Somiedo, where the C c 3 waters
waters part, are a few miferable cottages, which give name to the pafs.
From this we defcend by a deep ravin, which difcovers its native fchift, but hurries down from above vaSt rocks of lime-Stone charged with foflil fhells. Here we find ourfelves ingulfed as it were to the right and left by Stupendous rocks; but where the country opens to the north, we look down upon mountains beyond mountains, to the distance of many miles, and fo aStonifliingly numerous, that the whole bears a perfect refemblance to the ocean when it is vexed with a furious Storm. Immediately before us the little village of Gua appears as if ready to be Swallowed up and buried by the waves. The impending rocks are magnificent beyond defcription.
Lower down, at the distance of a mile, is la Pola de Somiedo, a village of one and twenty cottages, occupying a fmall eminence, fur-rounded by about fourfcore acres of well watered meadows, and Shut in by limeStone rocks of a moSt Stupendous height. Had Shakefpeare ever paffed this way, his imagination would never have looked towards
Dover
Dover cliff. This village, with its meadows, the little river, and high mountains, either naked and almoii perpendicular, or covered with hanging woods, the goats leaping from rock to rock, and the cattle feeding peaceably below, thefe altogether make a pleafing picture.
I had Sufficient time to exercife both my imagination and my pencil, for in this charming village we could get neither bread nor meat, nor eggs nor wine: as for meat and wine, thefe are delicacies they feldom tafte,
The ravin, through which our little river winds its courfe, alternately widens and contracts, being fometimes not more than two yards acrofs, but, even where it is widcil, never more than fix hundred feet; fometimes Hoping, and leaving a few acres for cultivation; at other times fteep, and inacceffible, except to goats; often rugped and bare, but not unfrequently covered thick with a variety of trees, fuch as oak, am, beech, filberts, walnuts, chefnuts, and that even where they have no visible foil in which to fix their roots. The rocks them-felves are beautiful, more efpeciallv when C c 4 the
the fmooth white marble is almoft hid by foliage.    Nearer  to   the  water's edge, plumbs, mulberries,  and figs, vary the fcene, and mark the vicinity to fome little village.   The way among thefe rocks is wild beyond all imagination : fometimes in the bottom and by the river's fide, at other times climbing the fteep afcent, or defcending from the heights, having on one hand a precipice of two or three hundred feet beneath, and on the other impending rocks, which threaten deftruction to the traveller.   Sometimes the river is pinched in between two rocks, and is out of fight; at other times a man looks down, and catches a glimpfe of it fparkling among the branches; but, whether vifible or inviiible, it is always heard roaring in the bottom. The way being rugged, and fo narrow as to admit only of one mule, occafions the apprehenfion of danger to be often more than a balance for the pleafure which would otherwife arife from thefe wild and moft romantic views.
Near the level of the river, at the diftance of two leagues from the Pola de So-miedo, the marble is charged with belem-
nites;
}
nites; but foon after the limeftone difap-pears, being fucceeded by the grit, or fand-ftone, fome finely granulated, and almoft equal to the Turkey ftone for fmoothnefs; other coarfe, and evidently compofed of fragments, being a fpecies of pudding-ftone with both cement and charge filicious.
At the end of four leagues, or a little more than four hours riding, we came to S. Andres de Aguera, being ftill in the fame ravin, which here expands, and admits of more extenfive villages.
To defcend into the Afturias, from the kingdoms of Caftille and Leon, there are other paffes; but, I apprehend, every one of them is ftrong.
From this circumftance we may readily
conceive, not only why the Moors, who, in
three years, had fubdued the reft of Spain,
could penetrate no further to the north,
but why, upon the turning of the tide, the
vanquished never failed to make an impref-
fion, and to pufh forward their conquefts
to the fouth. The jealoufy of
,      i   • • • A. kJi 700
two weak and vicious princes '
had difarmed the nation, and 7II#
left nothing to refill the impetuofity of
its
its fierce invaders, who, with their light
cavalry, fcoured all the open country, and
difplayed their victorious banners on the
banks of all the principal rivers in the
kingdom.   But when they came to this
chain of mountains, which, ftretchinp- eaft
and weft, and feparating the north of Gal-
licia, with the Afturias, Bifcay, and Guipuf-
coa, from the reft of Spain, had impeded the
progrcfs of nations equally warlike, of the
Carthaginians, the Romans, and the Goths,
their light horfe became abfoiutely ufek.s,
and the Moors were obliged to fet bounds
to their ambition.
Here they were oppofed by the infant
don Palayo.   On the death of Rodrigo,
.   ~ who was flain in battle before
A. D. JI±.   -r -    r ^
Xeres, not far from Cadiz,
this prince had retired to the mountains, and by his valour fecured the fmall remains of a vaft empire for his posterity. And here the hardy race was formed, which, in fucceding ages, defcended on the degenerate offspring of the Moors, drove them from the plains, and, in procefs of time, that is, after a conteft of feven hun-* dred
clred and eighty years, expelled them from every fortrefs in the kingdom.
When we came to S. Andres de Aguera, we took up our lodging at the parfonage, where the good Padre Cur a gave us a moft hofpitable reception. This living was given him by the bifhop of Oviedo, and is reckoned one of the beft in his difpofal. The parfonage is a tolerable cottage, built and fitted up with little regard to comfort, and lefs to appearance. Afcending five fteps of unhewn ftone, you enter a dark veftibule of about three feet fquare, which leads to the little kitchen on the left, or, if turning to the right, it conducts you to the hall. The former needs no defcription ; the latter is fourteen feet by twelve, with a rough floor, white wafts, up ceiling; the furniture is an oak table, and two benches. This hall communicates with the ftudy, a little room of fix feet by five; and with the bed chamber, which is fix feet fquare, but this has no window, being placed between the (ludy and the veftibule. Under the ftudy is a cellar, well ftored with bags of wine, to which you dcfcend through a trap door of fmall dimensions.   The two maids fleep in
a little
a little bed-room joining to their kitchen, and the affiftant prieft in a little hovel out of the houfe, that, if f nt for in the night, he may rife without disturbing the good rector.
As foon as we arrived, we had chocolate and bifcuits; at night, fome fat fowls, with plenty of good wine, made us amends for our fufferings at noon. The beft bed was given to the ftranger, and the hofpitable prieft contrived fome how or other to lodge all the reft.
The day following was Friday, and therefore a faff; but that made no difference to me, for this young prieft was fo polite and attentive as to provide a fowl. At dinner he gave me occasion to admire his difcre-tion : he wifhed me to tafte the trout, as being the produce of the Luna, a river remarkable for trout; but the homme d'affaire of my young friend pulled away the dim, and faid, " He can not eat fifti, becaufe he " has been eating flelh." " True,5' faid the prieft, " we catholics muft not touch " fiSh on a faft day, if we have been eating " flelh, but your friend is under no fuch <* obligation/'
This
55
This parifh contains one hundred and fifty families, confifting of feven hundred communicants, befides children under ten years old, fcattered in nine little villages, of which feven are on the mountains, and two in this valley. With fo many villages, the occasional duty is exceedingly fevere in winter, when the whole country is covered deep with fnow. The births are thirty, and the burials twenty-five, upon the average.
A little lower down the valley Hands Aguerina, where we fee the habitation of cardinal Cienfuegos, with the little cottage in which he was born; but no modern cardinal would pafs a day in either.
Upon all thefe mountains the people affect brown cloth, and the women fpin with a diffaff. Their induffry is moft ftriking; not as the offspring of luxury, as in more favoured regions, but as the child of poverty and of fevere necefiity. Not one ac-cefiible fpot is left uncultivated, and even the moft ungrateful foil is forced to pay fome tribute. The higher lands are fown with wheat, the lower lands with Indian corn. The rock here is limeftone, and, when burnt, is their principal manure.
In
In this country as much land as a pair of oxen can plough in a day, or about half art acre, is worth one hundred ducats, or £.11 fterling, nearly; and the rent of this they reckon fhould be one fanega of wheat, or fifty-fix pounds of bread, of twenty-four ounces to the pound.
Having nothing elfe to do, I amufed myfelf with making drawings of Aguera and of Aguarina; after which I went with our good rector to his church, to view the body of S. Fructuofo. It is to this body that thieves and murderers fly for protection from the avenging fword; and fhould they even reach the porch before they are taken, juftice is difarmed, and they may here dwell in fafety. The church, indeed, may give them up, but not to death. Such an afylum in the Afturias does little harm, becaufe the inhabitants excel in gentlenefs and fimplicity of manners; but, in other provinces, this privilege is attended with the moft fatal confequences.
On the mountains, I am told, are not only wolves, but bears, and a fpecies of the tiger; all which, in the winter, are exceedingly ferocious.   From the dread of thefe,
the
the Shepherds conftantly drive their flocks, confifting of fheep and goats, into the villages by night; and when they are feeding on the mountains, they are attended by ftrong dogs with fpiked collars.
The price of provifions:
Beef, eight quarts a pound of twenty-four ounces, which is three halfpence for fixteen ounces.
Mutton, ten quarts, or i £■ penny for fixteen ounces.
Bread, five quarts, or £2 penny ditto.
Labour, four reales, or 9^ penny a day.
Saturday, 5 Auguft, we left Aguera at four in the morning, and continued to de-fcend three leagues in the fame ravin, which might here be called a valley, and by the fide of the fame rapid ftream, which we had traced from its origin near the fummit of this vaft chain of mountains. At a moft romantic fpot, called Belmont e, we paffed over to the eaft, quitted the ravin, and began crofting all the mafures of the country.   Here we found nearly the fame trees
as
as in the few preceding days j the filbert, chefnut, walnut, and the oak.
Afcending for near an hour, we reached the fummit of a mountain, which commands a vail extent of country. This fud-den change, after having been fo long confined within the precincts of a deep ravin, was like a refurreclion from the dead. We began to breathe more freely, and looked round with pleafure to contemplate a new world before us; the little hills clothed with corn, or covered with wood, feemed to rejoice on every fide; and the whole country, with its verdure, its inclofures, and its produce, refembled fome of the richest: parifhes of England.
The prevailing rock is limeflone; yet we find fchift even on the highefl of thefe hills.
About the middle of the day we defcended to a circular plain of considerable extent, every where fhut in by mountains, and watered by a little stream, on the banks of which, nearly in the centre of the plain, is the village of Grado. From hence, after dinner, parting with the river between two 4 high
high rocks, we purfued our way for fome time along contracted vallies, then climbing from hill to hill we entered the fertile plain, at the head of which Hands the city of Oviedo, and about fun-fet arrived at the bifhop's palace, the place of our deftination.
The expences of this journey were as follow:
A calafine to VaUadolid, being thirty-two leagues, or about one hundred and Sixty miles, reckoned at five days out, one for reSt, and four for return, in all ten days, with fee to the driver, two hundred and eighty-four reales.
Ditto to Leon, for half a calafh, one hundred reales.
A mule to Oviedo, five days, and return, one hundred and twenty reales.
Provifions from Madrid to Oviedo, one-third, being my proportion, two hundred and feventy-two reales. The whole expence therefore in Sterling was jT.j. 14^. y^d, for a journey, which, if direct, would have been eighty-two leagues, but which, as I fuppofe, we made more than ninety leagues, or about four hundred and fifty miles, and
Vol. I. D d in
[ ]
in which, as we travelled, we employed fifteen days. The common expence, in this part of Spain, may be reckoned, for a calafine, $s. 6d. a day, allowing as much for the return, and about five millings a day for living, not including the califero, who pays for himfelf.
INDEX.
I        N D E
X
TO THE
FIRST VOLUME.
A BBEVILLE, France	in	Aranjuez	324
	7	Area cc France -	73
Academy of miners in	Pa-	Ataquines	361
ris	26	Aubert, M. his cabinet	21
Academy of Hift. Madrid	280	Autun -	48
Academy   of noble	arts,	Auxerre -	45
ditto	284		
Aguilarejo	235	Barcelona      -    106 to	186
Aguerina	397	Agriculture	179
Alcala	245	Botanical produce	
Alcazar at Toledo	304	-	1S2
Alcolea      - -	236	Civil hiftory	158
Algarrobo tree	1S5	Beaterias	376
Algora      - -	237	Belgarde	83
Amiens      - -	6	Belmonte	399
Anchuela	229	Beffon, M. his cabinet	25
S. Andres de Aguera -	593	.beziers    »      -. -	7*
Anover -	295	Bolla tax aboliihed	148
Arancel     - 198.	225	Borneo, an ais	3
D d 2 Bove,
INDEX,
Bove, M. de la, his cabinet 20 Boulogne        - 5 Brandy, its price, Montpel-lier       - - 73
Barcelona - 150 Brihuega cloth - -241 Bull feaft - - 342 Buen Retiro palace    - 256
Cabinets of Natural Hiftory, Paris        -        13 to 27 --Madrid     - 284
Calais 5 Calella - - - too Campomanes, count, 279 to 281 Ditto, his principles of polit.
economy - - 243 Canal of Arragon      - 210
---of Caftille     - 367
Candafnos       -       - 20* Cannon foundery at Barcelona - 145
Canofa, porter to C. Florida Blanca       -        - 330 Capa, a Spanifh cloak - 335 Cardona - 190
Carincna -       -   216
Carnival at Paris - 39 Catalans, their drefs - 180 Cervera - 193
Chalk, in Spain - 193 Challon - - - 48 Cheefe made at Anover 297
Chidrian, San - 359 Chocolate, grinding   - 140
Cities, their origin - 252 Civil war of Caftille - 316 Clavijo, vice director of cabinet 288 Commerce, its obftacles 54. Conqueft of Spain by Moors
- 394-
Cork trees - - 91 Cortijo, a farm - - 337 Corve, odious in Spain 236 Country feats feldom to be
feen in Spain - - 230 Current coin of Catalonia, 15 5 Cynara Cardunculus ufed for
making cheefe       - 297
Directions for travelling in Spain 1 Drefs of Catalonia     - 180 of Arragon      - 200
Efcarano, don Francifco, his civility        -       - 255 Efcrivanos       -       - 221
Fandango dance - - 332 Fernando, San, cloth 241 Fever, putrid, its cure 197 Figueras -      - 93
Flagellants      -       - 122 Flints in gypfum    202. 215 Florida Blanca, count, 291-3 28 Fontainbleau,
I     N     D     E X*
Fontainbleau, its cryftals, 32 Fortifications little wanted in Spain -        - 95
Fomls, extraneous 15. 77.165 Foundling hofpitals - 133 Fraga - - - 201 Funeral of duke of Orleans 37
Galapagar
Gerona
Grajanejos
Grit, theory of it 165. Guadalajara Guibert, M. de -Gypfum, decompofed -
356 97 238
384
239 10
226
Haftenfratz, M. his cabinet - 23
Hauy, abbe - - 22 Heat moderated at Madrid 352 Hermitage wine 59 Hofpicio, <v. Work-houfe Hotel Dieu at Paris - 35 Hotels at Madrid - 290 Houfes of correction 36.126
Ilerda       -      - 195
Inquifition       - 120
Izquierdo, don Eugenio 287
Joubert, M. de    -     - 21
Junquera         -      - 92
Labour, the price of - 75 Leon - 37S
Lerida
Licee at Paris
Longares
Lyons
4i
216
49
Madrid -       246. 249
Manfilla -       - 374
Mantilla, a kind of fhawl 335 - 234
Maranchon Martorel Mafdeval, Dr. Mataro
Medina del Campo Medina de Rio Seco Money, weights, and meafure* 156. 157 165 to 168 -      - 67
188 197 102 362 37*
Monjuich Montferrier Montrcuil Montferrat
Mont S. Pedro Martyr Montmartrc, its llrata Montpellicr - 66 to 72 Monumental erodes, 220.235 Mozarabic ritual - 311 Mudarra Mulberry trees
8 188 162 30
372 56
Narbonne N ifmes Norias
" 78
- 64 79-103. 170
Oil made at Aranjuez 338 Oxen ufed for draft   - 49 Padilla,
I     N P
E X.
Padilla, don John - 317 Palaces, -v. Buen Retiro, Ef-curial, Pardo, Madrid, S. Ildefonfo. Parejas, at Aranjuez - 341 Paris 8 Paffy, its ftrata - - 32 Perpignan - 82
Pezenas - 77
Picardy -        - 6
Fiedrafita        -        - 387 Pleurifies cured by ivy-berries - - 371 Ploughs,   their conftrudlion 7, 168, 229, 296 Political economy, principles of;          - - 243 Police at Paris     -     - 34 Pont du Garde 63 Population of Barcelona 135
—.---principles of 383
----of France - 74
Prado, at Madrid - 289 Proceffions - - 107 Provifions, the price of, 42.61.
96. 199. 322. 354. 571. 380 Pumps, their conftruction, 172 Pyrenees        - 88
Remoulin        - 64
Revenue of France - 75
Rochefeucault, duke of, his
cabinet-        - z\
Rome de lTfle, his cabinet 17 Roufillon -       - 82
Rouvray -       - - 47
Sage, M. his cabinet - 26
Salfolas at Ahover     - 300
Saltpetre works, Madrid 269 —277
Ditto, at Anover - - 297 Saragoffa, <v. Zaragoza.
Silk worms - - 56 Sitios, <v. Palaces.
Smugglers        -      - 85
Somiedo, Pola de       - 390
Somiedo, Puerta de - 389 Stoutz, M, a German miner 24
Supcrllition of Catalans 15 z
Tapeflry  manufactory, Ma-
drid     - - 267
Tarraga -        - 194
Toledo, fituation, &c. 303
---Manufactures 307
——>—Civil hillory - 314 Tortuera -      -   22 c
Tuf       -       -      - , 191 Travelling, mode of, in Spain 1. 222
Trillo - - 359
Truovana       - 385
ValdeitdJas - - 363 Valence, in France   - 60
VaUadolid
I     N    i>     E X.
VaUadolid - - 363 Venta, the term explained 203 Vermanton - -47 Villacaftin - - 357 Villafetano - - 386 Vineyards, their plantation, 72 Volero dance - - 331 Volcanos - - 22, 67 Univerfity of Toledg 321
Wine of Condrieux - 5^
Ditto, Hermitage - 59
Ditto, Montpellicr - 72
Wolf dogs        - - 387
Work-houfes, Barcelona 123
——-----—» Toledo - 305
Zaragoza       « - 205
JiND OF THE FIRST VOLUME.
v>>.- *-r/£ ..V / ST