4^ t m t A Y A G E TOWARDS THE T H POLE, AND ROUND THE WORLD. performed in His Majefty's Ships the RESOLUTION and ADVENTURE, In the Years 1772, 1773* 1774, and 1775. WRITTEN By JAMES COOK, Commander of the Resolution. In which is included, CAPTAIN FURNEAUX's NARRATIVE of his Proceedings in the Adventure during the Separation of the Ships, IN TWO VOLUMES. Illuilrated with MAPS and CHARTS, and a Variety of PORTRAITS of PERSONS and VIEWS of PLACES, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. HODGES, and engraved by the mod eminent Matters. VOL. I. L O N D O N: Printed for W. STRAHANj and T. CAD ELL in the Strand, MDCCLXXVII. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. General Introduction. Page ix' B O O K I. From our Departure from England, to leaving the Society Ifles, the firft Time. CHAP. I. Paffage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hope, with an account of feveral incidents that happened by the way, and tranfaclions there. Page i CHAP. II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in fearch of a Southern Con-" tinent. . 19 CHAP. III. Sequel of the fearch for a Southern Continent, between the meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand; with an account of the feparation of the two fhips, and the arrival of the Refolution in Dujky Bay. 43 CHAP. IV. Tranfaclions in Duffy Bay, with an account of feveral interviews with the inhabitants. " 69 A 2 CHAP. C H A P. V. Direclions for failing in and out of Dujky Bay, with an account of the adjacent country, its produce and inhabitants: afironomical and nautical obfervations. 92 CHAP. VI. Paffage from Dujky Bay to ^ueen Charlotte's Sound, ivith an account offome water Jpouts, and of our joining the Adventure, 103 C PI A P. VII. Captain Furneauxs narrative, from the time the two fhips iverc feparated, to their joining again in ®ueen Charlotte's Soimd, with fom account of Van Diemerfs Land. 107 CHAP. VIII. Tranfaclions in Queen Charlotte's Sound, with fome remarks on the inhabitants. 121 CHAP. IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an account of fome low iflands, fuppofed to be the fame that were feen by M. de Bougainville. 131 C II A P. X. H'he arrival of the fJjTps at Otaheite, with an account of the critical fituation they were in, and of feveral incidents that happened while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. 144 CHAP. XI. An account of feveral vifit s to and from Otoo; of goats being left on the iflandi and many other particulars which happened while the fhips lay in Matavai Bay. 153 CHAP. XII. An account of the reception we met ivith at Huaheine, ivith the incidents that happened ivhile the flnps lay there, and of Omai, one of the natives, coming away in the Adventure. i6r CHAP. XIII. Arrival at, and departure of the fhips from, Ulietea; ivith an ac~ count of ivhat happened there, and of Oedidee, one of the natives^ coming away in the Refolution. 171 CHAP. XIV. An account of a Spanifh fhip vifiting Otaheite; the prefent fate of the iflands j with fome obfervations on the difeafes and ciifloms of the inhabitants, and fome piijlakes concerning the women corrected. 181 BOOK II. From our Departure from the Society Iiles, to our Return to, and leaving them the Second Time. CHAP. I. Pajfagc from Ulietea to the Friendly Iflands; with an account of the difcovery of Hervey's Jfland, and the incidents that happened at Middlcburg. 189 CHAP. II. The arrival of the flnps at Amferdam ; a defcription of a place of worflnp; and an account of the incidents which happened while they remained at that ifland. > 196 chap. iii. A dejeription of the iflands and their produce, with the cultivation, houjes, canoes, navigation, manufactures, weapons, cujloms, go-vcrnmcnt, religion, and language of the inhabitants. 211 chap. iv. Pajfagc from Amferdam to Queen Charlotte s Sound, with an account of an interview with the inhabitants, and the fnalftparation of the two flnps. 225 chap. V. Tranfaclions in Queen Charlotte's Sound \ with an account of the inhabitants being cannibals; and various other incidents.—Departure from the Sound, and our endeavours to find the Adventure ; with fome dejeription of the coaf. 235 c pi a p. vr. Route of the fl/ip from New Zealand in fearch of a continent; with an account of the various obftfUclidns met with from the ice, and the methods purfued to explore the Southern Pacific Ocean. 251 chap. vii. Sequel of the pajfagc from New Zealand to Eafer Ifland, and tranfaclions there, with an account of an expedition to difcover the inland part of the country, and a dejeription offome of the furprifing gigantic fatues found in the 'ifland. 276 c II A P. VIIL A dejeription oj the if and, its produce, fituation, and inhabitants, their manners and cujloms; conjectures concerning their government^ re- ligion, and other fubjecl.s ; ivith a more particular account of their gigantic Jlatues. 287 C H A P. IX. The pnjf'gc from Eafer Ifland to the Marquefas Iflands. Tranfac-tions and incidents ivhich happened while the fhip lay in Madre dc Dios, or Refolution Bay, in the Ifland of St. Chriflina. 207 chap. x. Departure from the Marquefas ; a dejeription of the fituation, extent, figure, and appearance of the feveral iflands; ivith Jbme account of the inhabitants, their cujloms, drefs, habitations, food, weapons, and canoes. nQ- C H A P. XI. A defcription of feveral iflands d if covered, or feen in the paffage from the Marquefas to Otaheite*, with an account of a naval review. 312 CHAP. XII. Some account of a vifit from Otoo, Towha, and feveral other chiefs; alfo of a robbery committed by one of the natives, and its confequenccs, with general obfervations on the fubjecl.. 324 CHAP. XIII. Preparations to leave the ifland. Another naval review, and various other incidents; with Jome account of the ifland\ its naval force, and number of inhabitants. 239 CHAP. XIV. The arrival oj the flnp at the if and of Huaheine; with an account of an expedition into the 'ifland, and feveral other incidents which happened while fhc lay there. 354 CHAP. XV. Arrival at Ulietea, ivith an account of the reception we met ivith there, and the feveral incidents ivhich happened during our fay. A report of two fhips being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the if and, and the regret the inhabitants foewed on the occafon. The character of Oedidee, with fome general obfervations on the ifland. 364 Lately publifhed, A N ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGES Undertaken by the ORDER OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY, for making Difcoveries in the Southern Hemifphere, And fucceffively performed by COMMODORE BYRON, CAPTAIN WALLIS, CAPTAIN CARTERET, and CAPTAIN COOK, in the Dolphin, the Swallow, and the Endeavour. drawn up From the Journals which were kept by the feveral Commanders, And from the Papers of JOSEPH BANKS, Efq. By JOHN HAWKESWORTH, LL.D. in THREE VOLUMES. Ill ultrated'with CUTS, and a great Variety of CHARTS and MAPS relative t« Countries now firft difcovcred, or hitherto but imperfectly known, GENERAL INTRODUCTION. T "T 7HETII R R the unexplored part of the Southern V 7 Hemifphert be only an immenfe mafs of water, or contain another continent, as Speculative geography Seemed to fuggeft, was a queflion which had long engaged the attention, not only of learned men, but of moft of the maritime powers of Europe. To put an end to all diverfity of opinion about a matter fo curious and important, was his Majefty's principal motive, in directing this voyage to be undertaken, the niftory of which is now fubmitted to the Public. But, in order to give the Reader a clear idea of what has been done in it, and to enable him to judge more accurately, how far the great object that was propofed, has been obtained, it will be ncceflary to prefix a fhort account of the feveral voyages which have been made on discoveries to the Southern Hemifphere, prior to that which Vol. I.' a I had I had lately the honour to conduct, and which I am now* going to relate. The firft who croiTed the vaft Pacific Ocean, was Ferdinand Magalhaens, a Portuguefe, who, in the Service of Spain, failed from Seville, with five mips, on the ioth of April, 15 i 9. He difcovered the Straits which bear his name; and having paffed through them, on the 27th of November, 1520, entered the South Pacific Ocean. In this fea he difcovered two uninhabited iflands, vvhofe fituations are not well known. He afterwards eroded the Line; difcovered the Ladrone Iflands ; and then proceeded to the Phillipines, in one of which he was killed in a fldr-mifh with the natives. His fhip, called the Victory, was the firft that circumnavigated the globe; and the only one of his Squadron, that Surmounted the dangers and diftrefles which attended his heroic enterprise. The Spaniards, after Magalhaens had rtiewed them the way, made feveral voyages from America to the weft ward, previous to that of Alvaro Mendana De Neyra in 1595, which is the firft that can be traced ftep by ftep. For the antecedent expeditions are not handed down to us with much precifion. We We know however, in general, that, in them, New Guinea, the iflands called Solomon s, and feveral others, were difcovered. Geographers differ greatly concerning the fituation of the Solomon Iflands. The moft probable opinion is, that they are the clutter which comprizes what has fince been called New Britain, New Ireland, &c. On the 9th of April, 1595, Mendana, with intention to { fettle thefe iflands, failed from Callao, with four fhips; and his difcoveries in his route to the Weft, were the Marquefas, in the latitude of io° South;—the Ifland of St. Bernardo, which I take to be the fame that Commodore Byron calls the Ifland of Danger;—after that, Solitary Ifland, in the latitude io° 40' South, longitude 178° Weft;—and laftly, Santa Cruz, which is, undoubtedly, the fame that Captain Carteret calls Egmont Ifland. In this laft ifland, Mendana, with many of his companions, died; and the fhattered remains of the fquadron were conducted to Manilla, by Pedro Fernandez de Quiros, the chief pilot. This fame Quiros was the firft fent out, with the fole view of difcovering a Southern Continent; and, indeed, he Seems to have been the firft who had any idea of the exiftence of one. a 2 He He failed from Callao, the 21ft of December, 1605, as pilot of the fleet, commanded by Luis Paz de Torres, confining of two fhips and a tender; and fleering to the W. S. W., on the 26th of January, 16c6, being then, by their reckoning, a thoufand Spanifli leagues from the Coaft of A merica, they difcovered a fmall low ifland in latitude 25° South.—Two days after, they difcovered another that was high, with a plain on the top. This is, probably, the fame that Captain Carteret calls Pitcairn's Ifland. After leaving thefe iflands, Quiros feems to have directed his courfe to the W. N. W. and N. W. to io° or 11° South latitude, and then, Weftward, till he arrived at the Bay of St. Philip and Jago, in the Ifland of Tierra del Efpiritu Santo. In this Route he difcovered feveral iflands ; pro. bably, fome of thofe that have been fecn by later navigators. On leaving the Bay of St. Philip and St. Jago, the two fhips were feparated. Quiros, with the Capitana, flood to the North, and returned to New Spain, after having fuf-fered greatly for want of provisions and water.—Torres, with the Almiranta and the tender, fleered to the Weft, and feems to have been the firft who failed between New Holland and New Guinea. The The next attempt to make difcoveries in the South Pa- Le^!r;:and cific Ocean, was conducted by Le MAirCj and Schouten — Schou'CIU They failed from the Texel, on the 14th of June, 161 5, with the (hips Concord and Horn. The latter was burnt by accident, in Port Defire. With the other, they difcovered the Strait that bears the name of Le Maire, and were the firft who ever entered the Pacific Ocean, by the way cf Cape Horn. They difcovered the Ifland of Dogs, in latitude 15° j y South, longitude 1360 30' Weft;—Sondre Grondt in 1 50 South latitude, and 1430 10'Weft longitude;—Watcrland, in 140 46'South, and 1440 10' Weft;—and, twenty-five leagues Weftward of this, Fly Ifland, in latitude 15° 20'; —Traitor's and Cocos Iflands, in latitude 150 43' S., longitude 1730 13' W;—Two degrees more to the Weftward, the Ifle of Hope;—and, in the latitude of 140 56'South, longitude 1790 30' Eaft, Horn Ifland. They next coafted the North fide of New Britain and New Guinea, and arrived at Batavia in October, 1616. Except fome difcoveries on the Weftern and Northern Coafts of New Holland, no important voyage to the Pacific Ocean was undertaken till 1642, when Captain Tafman failed from Batavia, with two fhips belonging to the Dutch Eaft India Company, and difcovered Van Diemen's Land;— 3 a finalL a fmall part of the Weflcrn Coaft of New Zealand the Friendly Ifles;—and thofe called Prince William's. iqg4. Thus far I have thought it beft not to interrupt the Hawkins, progrefs of difcovcry in the South Pacific Ocean, other wife I fhould before have mentioned, that Sir Richard Hawkins „ in 1594, being about fifty leagues to the Eaft ward of the river Plate, was driven by a ftorm to the Eaflward of his intended courfe, and when the weather grew moderate, fleering towards the Straits of Magalhaens, he unexpectedly fell in with land ; about fixty leagues of which he coafted, and has, very particularly, defcribed. This he named Hawkins's Maiden Land, in honour of his royal miftrefs, Queen Elizabeth, and fays it lies fome threefcore leagues from the neareft part of South America. |6g This land was afterwards difcovered to be two large Suon2" iflands, by Captain John Strong, of the Farewell, from London, who, in 1689, pafled through the Strait which divides the Eaftern from the Weftern of thofe iflands. To this Strait he gave the name of Falkland's Sound, in honour of his patron, Lord Falkland; and the name has fince been extended, through inadvertency, to the two iflands it fepa-rates. Having mentioned thefe iflands, I will add, that future navigators will mifpend their time, if they look for Pepys's 4 Ifland > Ifland in 470 South; it being now certain, that Pepys's Ifland is no other than thefe iflands of Falkland. In April 1675, Anthony la Roche, an Englifli La1^7Jc'he merchant, in his return from the South Pacific Ocean, where he had been on a trading voyage, being carried, by the winds and currents, far to the Eaft of Strait La Maire, fell in with a coaft, which may poflibly be the fame with that which I vifited during this voyage, and have called the Ifland of Georgia. Leaving this land, and failing to the North, La Roche, in the latitude of 4.50 South, difcovered a large ifland, with a good port towards the eaftern part, where he found wood, water, and fifh. In 1699, that celebrated aftronomer Dr. Edmund Hal- 1699. ley was appointed to the command of his Majefty's (hip *e/" the Paramour Pink, on an expedition for improvincr the knowledge of the longitude, and of the variation of the compafs; and for difcovering the unknown lands fuppofed to lie in the fouthern part of the Atlantic Ocean. In this voyage, he determined the longitude of feveral places; and after his return, conftructed his Variation Chart, and pro-pofed a method of obferving the longitude at fea, by means of the appulfes, and occultations of the fixt ftars. But, though he fo fuccefsfully attended to the two firft arti* articles of his inftructions, he did not find any unknown fouthern land. 1721. The Dutch, in 1721, fitted out three fhips to make .oggewein. difcoveries in the South Pacific Ocean, under the command of Admiral Roggewein. He left the Texel on the 21 ft of Auguft, and arriving in that ocean, by going round Cape Horn, difcovered Eafter Ifland; probably feen before, though not vifited, by Davis*;—then, between 14° 41' and 150 47' South latitude, and between the longitude of 1420 and 1500 Weft, fell in with feveral other iflands, which I take to be fome of thofe feen by the late Englifh navigators.—He next difcovered two iflands in latitude 150 South, longitude 1700 Weft, which he called Baumen's Iflands ;—and, laftly, Single Ifland, in latitude 130 41' S., longitude 171° 30' WTeft.—Thefe three iflands are, undoubtedly, the fame that Bougainville calls the Ifles of Navigators. In 173^, the French Eaft India Company fent Lozier Bower. Bouvet with two fhips, the Eagle and Mary, to make difcoveries in the South Atlantic Ocean. He failed from Port L'Oricnt on the 1 9th of July, in that year ; touched at the Ifland of St. Catharine; and irom thence fhaped his courfe towards the S. E. On the -ft of January 1739, he difcovered land, or Hv-hat he judged to be (and* in the latitude 54° South, loft- * Sec Wafer's Defcripiion of the Iilhmus of Daiien. gitudc General introduction. gitude iiOjEaft. It will appear in the courfe of the following narrative, that we made feveral attempts to find this land without fuccefs. It is, therefore, very probable, that what Bouvet faw was nothing more than a large ice-ifland. From hence he flood to the Eaft, in 510 of latitude, to 350 of Eaft longitude: after which the two fhips feparated; one going to the Ifland of Mauritius, and the other returning to France. After this voyage of Bouvet, the fpirit of difcovery ceafed, till his prefent Majefty formed a defign of making difcoveries, and exploring the Southern Hemifphere; and, in the year 1764, directed it to be put in execution. Accordingly, Commodore Byron, having under his command the Dolphin and Tamer, failed from the Downs on the 21ft of June the fame year; and having vifited the Falkland Iflands, paffed through the Straits of Magalhaens, into the Pacific Ocean, where he difcovered the Iflands of Dif-appointment;—George's;—Prince of Wales's;—the Iflesof Danger ;—York Ifland ;—and Byron Ifland. He returned to England the 9th of May 1766, and, in the month of Auguft following, the Dolphin was again fent out, under the command of Captain Wallis, with the Swallow, commanded by Captain Carteret. Vol. I. b They They proceeded together, till they came to the weft end of the Straits of Magalhaens, and the Great South Sea in fight, where they were feparated. Captain Wallis directed his courfe more wefterly than any navigator had done before him in fo high a latitude; but met with no land till he got within the tropic, where he difcovered the Iflands Whitfunday ;—Queen Charlotte ;— Egmont;—Duke of Gloucefter;—Duke of Cumberland;—. Maitea;—Otaheite ;—Eimeo; —Tapamanou;—How;— Scilly;—Bofcawen;—Keppel;—and Wallis, and returned to England in May 1768. Carteret. His companion Captain Carteret kept a different route; in which he difcovered the Iflands Ofnaburg;—Gloucefter; —Queen Charlottes's Ifles;—Carteret's;—Gower's;—and the Strait between New Britain and New Ireland; and returned to England in March 1769. i766. In November X766, Commodore Bougainville failed toipiavHc. foQm pranGC) m the frigate La Boudeufe, with the ftore- fhip L'Etoile. After fpending fome time on the coaft of Brazil, and at Falkland Iflands, he nor in frigates, nor in Eaft India Company's (hips, nor in large three-decked Weft-India fhips, nor indeed in any other but North-country-built fhips, or fuch as are built for the coal-trade, which are, peculiarly adapted to this purpofe. In fuch a velTel, an able fea-officer will be moft venture-fome, and better enabled to fulfil his inftructions, than he poftibly can (or indeed than would be prudent for him to attempt) in one of any otherfort or fize. c Upon Upon the whole, I am firmly of opinion, that no fhips are fo proper for difcoveries in diftant unknown parts, as thofe conftructed as was the Endeavour, in which I performed my former voyage. For no fhips of any other kind can contain ftores and provifions fufficient (in proportion to the neceffary number of men), confidering the length of time it will oe neceffary they fhould laff. And, even if another kind of fhips could flow a fufficiency, yet, on arriving at the parts for difcovery, they would llill, from the nature of their conftruction and fize, be lefs fit for the purpofe. Hence, it may be concluded, fo little progrefs had been hitherto made in difcoveries in the Southern Hemifphere. For all fhips which attempted it before the Endeavour, were unfit for it \ although the officers employed in them had done the utmoft in their power. It was upon thefe confiderations, that the Endeavour was chofen for that voyage. It was to thefe properties in her, that thofe on board owed their prefervation ; and hence we were enabled to profecute difcoveries in thofe feas fo much longer than any other fhip ever did, or could do. And, although difcovery was not the firft object or that, voyage, I could venture to traverfe a far greater fpace of fea, till then unnavigated, to difcover greater tracks of country in high high and low South latitudes, and to perfevere longer in exploring and furveying more correctly the extenfive coafts of thofe new-difcovered countries, than any former Navigator, perhaps, had done during one voyage. In (hort, thefe properties in the fhips, with perfeverance and refolution in their commanders, will enable them to execute their orders \ to go beyond former difcoverers ; and continue to Britain the reputation of taking the lead of all nations, in exploring the globe. Thefe confiderations concurring with Lord Sandwich's opinion on the fame fubject:, the Admiralty determined to Jiave two fuch fhips as are here recommended. Accordingly, two were purchafed of Captain William Hammond, of Hull. They were both built at Whitby, by the fame perfon who built the Endeavour, being about fourteen or fixtcen months old at the time they were purchafed, and were, in my opinion, as well adapted to the intended lervice, as if they had been built for the purpofe. The largcft of the two was four hundred and fixty-two tons burthen. She was named Refolution, and fent to Dept-ford to be equipped. The other was three hundred and thirty-fix tons burthen. She was named Adventure; and fent to be equipped at Woolwich. It It was firft propofed to fheath them with copper; but on confidering that copper corrodes the iron work, efpe-cially about the rudder, this intention was laid afide, and the old method of fheathing and fitting purfued, as being-the moil: fecure; for although it is ufual to make the rudder-bands of the fame compofition, it is not, however,, fo durable as iron, nor would it, I am well allured, laft out fuch a voyage as the Refolution performed. Therefore, till a remedy is found to prevent the effect: of copper upon the iron work, it would not be advifeable to ufe it on a voyage of this kind, as the principal faftenings of the fhip being iron, they may be deltroyed. On the 28th of November, 1771, I was appointed to the command of the Refolution; and Tobias Furneaux (who had been Second Lieutenant with Captain Wallis) was promoted, on this occafion, to the command of the Adventure. Our complements cf officers and men were fixed, as in. the following table. RESO- RESOLUTION. ADVENTURE. Officers and Men. N° Officers Names. N° Officers Names. Captain i fames Cook i Tobias Furneaux. Lieutenants 3 Robert P. Cooper o jofeph Shank. Charles Clerke Arthur Kempe. Richard Pickerfgill Mailer i Jofeph Gilbert I 3eter Fannin. Boatfwain i James Gray. I id ward Johns. Carpenter i James Wallis I William Offord. Gunner 1 Robert Anderfon I Andrew Gloag. Surgeon i James Patten 1 I Thomas Andrews. Mailer's Mates 2 Midfhipmen t' 6 4 Surgeon's Mates «"» 2 Captain's Clerk I I Mailer at Arms I I Corporal I Armourer I 1 Ditto Mate I I Sail Maker I J Ditto Mate I I Boatfwain's Mates 2 Carpenter's Ditto 3 2 Gunner's Ditto 2 I Carpenter's Crew 4 4 Cook i l Ditto Mate i Quarter Mailers 6 4 Able Seamen 45 33 Marines. i Lieutenant i John Edgcumbe. i James- Scott. Serjeant i i Corporals 2 i Drummer I i Private *5 ■ 8 Total H2 81 ■»- ......—X I had all the reafon in the world to be perfectly fatisfied with the choice of the officers. Tire Second and Third Lieutenants, the Lieutenant of Marines; two of the Warrant Officers; and feveral of the petty officers, had been with me during the former voyage. The others were men of known abilities; and all of them, on every occafion, (hewed their zeal for the fervice in which they were employed, during the whole voyage. In the equipping of thefe fhips, they were not confined to ordinary cftablifhrnents, but were fitted in the moft complete manner, and fupplied with every extra article that was fuggefted to be neceflary. Lord Sandwich paid an extraordinary attention to this equipment, by vifiting the fhips from time to time, to fa-tisfy himfelf that the whole was completed to his wifh, and to the fatisiaction of thofe who were to embark in them. Nor were the Navy and Victualling Boards wanting in providing them with the very beft of (lores and provifions, and whatever elfe was neceffary for fo long a voyage.- Some alterations were adopted in the fpecies of provifions ufually made ufe of in the navy. That is, we were fupplied with wheat in lieu of fo much oatmeal, and fugar in lieu of fo much oil ; and when completed, each fliip ^ had had two years and a half provifions on board, of all fpe-cies. We had befides, many extra articles, fuch as Malt, Sour Krout, Salted Cabbage, Portable Broth, Saloup, Muflard, Marmalade of Carrots, and Infpijfated Juke of Wort and Beer. Some of thefe articles had before been found to be highly antifcorbutic; and others were now fent out on trial, or by way of experimentthe InfpilTated Juice of Beer and Wort, and Marmalade of Carrots efpecially.—-As feveral of thefe antifcorbutic articles are not generally known, a more-particular account of them may not be amifs. Of Malt is made Sweet Wort, which is given to fuch perfons- as have got the fcurvy, or whofe habit of body threatens them with it, from one to five or fix pints a day, as. the Surgeon fees neceflary. Sour Krouty is cabbage cut fmall, to which is put a little fait, juniper berries, and annifeeds; it is then fermented, and afterwards clofe packed in cafks ; in which flate it will keep good a long time. This is a wholefome vegetable food, and a great antifcorbutic. The allowance to each man is two pounds a week, but I increafed or diminifhed their allowance as I thought proper. Salted Cabbage, is cabbage cut to pieces, and falted down in cafks, which will preferve it a long time. Porta- Portable Broth is fo well known, that it needs no de-fcription. We were fupplied with it both for the Tick and well, and it was exceedingly beneficial. Saloup, and Rob of Lemons and Oranges, were for the fick and fcorbutic only, and wholly under the Surgeon's care. Marmalade of Carrots, is the juice of yellow carrots, infpifTated till it is of the thicknefs of fluid honey, or treacle, which laft it refembles both in tafle and colour. It was recommended by Baron Storfcb, of Berlin, as a very great antifcorbutic; but we did not find that it had much of this quality. For the Infpijfated Juice of Wort, and Beer, we were indebted to Mr. Pelham, Secretary to the Commiflioners of the Victualling Office. This Gentleman, fome years ago, efcn-fidered that if the juice of malt, either as beer or wort, was infpiiTated by evaporation, it was probable this infpillated juice would keep good at fea ; and, if fo, a fupply of be^F might be had, at any time, by mixing it with water* " Mr. Pelham made feveral experiments, which fucceeded fo well, that the Commiflioners caufed thirty-one half barrels of this juice to be prepared, and fent out with our fhips for trial; nineteen on board the Refolution, and the remainder qi\ board the Adventure. The fuccefs of the experiments t will will be mentioned in the narrative, in the order as they were made. The frame of a fmall veffel, twenty tons burthen, was properly prepared, and put on board each of the (hips to be fet up (if found neceffary) to ferve as tenders upon any emergency, or to transport the crew in cafe the fhip was loft. : We were alfo well provided with fifhing-nets, lines, and hooks of every kind for catching of fifti.—And, in order to enable us to procure refrefhmcnts, in fuch inhabited parts of the world as we might touch at, where money was of no value, the Admiralty caufed to be put on board both the fhips, feveral articles of merchandize ; as well to trade with the natives for proVifions, as to make them prefents to gain their friendfhip and efteem. Their Lordflups alfo caufed a number of medals to be ftruck, the one fide reprefenting His Majefty, and the other the two fhips. Thefe medals were to be given to the natives of new difcovered countries, and left there, as teftimo-nies of our being the firft -difcoverers. Some additional clothing, adapted to a cold climate, was put on board; to be given to the feamen whenever it was thought neceffary.—In fhort, nothing was wanting d that that could tend to promote the fuccefs of the undertaking, or contribute to the conveniencies and health of thofe who embarked in it. The Admiralty fhewed no lefs attention to fcience in general, by engaging Mr. William Hodges, a Landfcape Painter, to embark in this voyage, in order to make drawings and paintings of fuch places in the countries we fhould touch at, as might be proper to give a more perfect idea thereof, than could be formed from written descriptions only. And it being thought of public utility, that fome perfon ikilled in Natural Hiitory fhould be engaged to accompany me in this voyage, the parliament granted an ample fum for that purpofe, and Mr. John Reinhold Forfter, with his fon, were pitched upon for this employment. The Board of Longitude agreed with Mr. William Wales, and Mr. William Bayley, to make Altronomical Obfervations ; the former on board the Refolution, the latter on board the Adventure. The great improvements which aftronomy and navigation have met with from the many interefting obfervations they have made, would have done honour to any perfon whofe reputation for mathematical knowledge was not fo well known as theirs. : z r •* : The The fame board fumimed them with the belt of inftru-merits, for making both agronomical and nautical obfervations and experiments; and likewife with four time-pieces, or watch machines; three made by Mr. Arnold, and one made by Mr, Kendall on Mr, Harrifon's principles. A particular account of the going of thefe watches, as alfo the aftronomical and nautical obfervations made by the aftronomers, will be laid before the Public by order of the Board of Longitude, under the infpcftion of Mr, Wales. Befides the obligations I was under to this gentleman for communicating to me the obfervations he made, from time to time, during the voyage, I have fince been indebted to him for the perufal of his journal, with leave to take from it whatever I thought might contribute to the improvement of this Work. For the convenience of the generality of readers, I have reduced the time from the nautical to the civil computation, fo that whenever the terms A. M. and P. M. are ufed, the former fignifies .the forenoon, and the latter the afternoon of the fame day. In all the courfes, bearings, Sec. the variation of the compafs is allowed, unlefs the contrary is expreiTed. d2 And And now it may be neceflary to fay, that, as I am on the point of failing on a third expedition, I leave this account of my laft voyage in the hands of fome friends, who in my ab* fence have kindly accepted the office of correcting the prefs for me ; who are pleafed to think, that what I have here to relate is better to be given in my own words, than in the words of another perfon ; efpecially as it is a work defigned for information, and not merely for amufement; in which, it is their opinion, that candour and fidelity wilL counterbalance the want of ornament, I fhall therefore conclude this introductory difcourfe widi defiring the reader to excufe the inaccuracies offtyle, which doubtlefs he will frequently meet with in the following narrative; and that, when fuch occur, he will recollect that it is the production of a man, who has not had the advantage of much fchool education, but who has been conitantly at fea from his youth; and though, with the affiftance of a few good friends, he has palled through all the ftations belonging to a feaman, from an apprentice boy in the coal trade, to a Port Captain in the Royal Navy, he has had no opportunity of cultivating letters. After this account of myfelf, the Public muft not expect from me the elegance of a fine writer, or the plaufibility of a profefled book-maker; but will, I hope, confider me as a plain man, zealoufly exerting himfelfin the fervice of his Country, and determined to give the beft account he is able of his proceedings. Plymouth Sound, July 7, 1776. ■ LIST of the PLATES, With Directions for placing them. [As the Plates, for the fake of expedition, were printed off as fad as they were finifhed, it was neceffary to number them, before any confideration could be had of the proper arrangement. They are to be placed in the following order.] VOL. I. Page. Plate. Print of Captain Cook fronts the Title-page. i Chart of the Southern Llemifphere, mewing Captain Cook's tracks, and thofe of fome of the moft diftinguifhed navigators L 8 Port Pray a, in the Ifland of St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verds X. 37 View of the Ice-Iflands m XXX. 70 NewZealand fpruce - - LI. 75 Family in Dufky-Bay, New Zealand LXIII. 92 Sketch of Duiky Bay, New Zealand XIII. 96 Flax plant of New Zealand XXIII. 97 Poi Bird of NewZealand - ■ HI. 100 Tea Plant of New Zealand * XXH. U5 Van Diemen's Land VIII. *54 Otoo King of Otaheite xxxvnr. *57 Plant ufed at Otaheite to catch fifh by intoxi- cating them - - XXIV. Potatowr Chief of Attahourou, in Otaheite LVI. 169 Omai, who was brought to England by Cap- LVII. tain Furneaux - ■ ■* 181 View of Otaheite Ifland - LIII. 18* A Tupapow with a corpfe 9 XLIV. 9 Page xxxviii LIST OF THE PLATES. Page. Plate. 191 Chart of the Friendly Ifles - XIV. 193 View of'.he landing at Middleburg - LIV. 197 Otago, or Attago, a chief at Amfterdam - XL. 20O Afiatouca, a temple or burying-place at Amsterdam - - - XXVIII. 215 Draught, plan, and fe&ion of an Amfterdam canoe - - - XVI. 220 Ornaments, utenfils, and weapons at the Friendly Ifles - XXI. 245 Specimens of New Zealand workmanfhip, Sec. XIX. 277 Eaftcr Ifland * . - - IX. 290 Man at Eafter Ifland - - - XLVI. 291 Woman at Eafter Ifland - - XXV. 294 Monuments in Eafter Ifland - - XLIX. 305 Sketch of the Marquefas - -f V. 307 View of Refolution Bay, at St. Chriflina - XXXIH. 309 Woman zt Sr. Chriflina - XXXVII. 310 Chief at St. Chriflina - - XXXVI. 311 Ornament-sand weapons at the Marquefas - XVII. 342 Fleet of Otaheite affembled at Oparee - LXI. 344. Draught, plan, and fedtion of the Britannia, a war canoe at Otaheite - - XV. 368 Tynai-mai, a young woman of Ulieiea - XLT. 375 Oedidee, a young man of Bolabola - - XXXV. VOL. II. 2 Sketches of -four iflands;—<—Hervey, mentioned vol. i. p. 290 j—Palmerfton, vo). ii. p. 2a—Savage, vol. ii. p. 5.—Turtle, vol. ii, p. 24. ft " - " m Page LIST OF THE PLATES. XXXiX: Page. Plate. 9 View in the Ifland of Rotterdam, - XLIII. 13 Boats of the Friendly Ifles - - XLIL 25 Chart of Captain Cook's difcoveries made in the South Pacific Ocean - - III. 30 View of the landing at Mallicollo - LX. 34 Man of Mallicollo - - - XLVIL 38 Sketches, of Port Sandwich in Mallicollo,—of Port Refolution in Tanna,—and of the harbour of Balade in New Caledonia - XL 46 View of the landing at Erromango - LXIL 54 View of the landing at Tanna - - LIV. 63 View in Tanna - - XXIX* 78 Man of Tanna - - . XXVI. 80 Woman of Tanna - - - XLV. 82 Weapons, 6cc. at Mallicollo and Tanna XVIIL no View in New Caledonia - L. 119 Man of New Caledonia - - XXXIX. 120 Woman of New Caledonia - - XLVIIL 120 Ornaments, weapons, &c. at New Caledonia XX. 135 View in the Ifland of Pines - - XXXL 147 Norfolk Ifle - - -VI. 152 Man of New Zealand - - LV. Ibid. Woman of New Zealand - - LVIII. 177 Chart of Chriftmas Sound - - VII. 183 Man of Chriftmas Sound - - XXVIL 185 View of Chriftmas Sound - - XXXIL 198 Chart of the fouthern extremity of America II. 210 Chart of Captain Cook's difcoveries in the South Atlantic - IV. 212 View of Poflfeflion Bay in South Georgia XXXIV. LIST of THE PLATES. Five of the Plates, conjifting of various Articles-, the following Explanation of them is fubjoined. No. XVII. Ornaments and weapons at the Marquefas, thus marked* 1. A gorget ornamented with red peafe.— 2. An ornament for the head.—3. A club.—4. A Head-drefs. —5. A fan. XVIIL Weapons, &c. at Mallicollo and Tanna. 1. A bow._ 2. Stones worn in the nofe.—3. Mufical reeds, a Syrinx.—4. A club.—5. The point of an arrow.— 6. The arrow entire. XIX. Specimens of New Zealand workmanmip, Sec. 1, and 2. Different views of an adze.—3- A faw.—4. A fhell. XX. Ornaments, weapons, Sec. at New Caledonia. 1. A lance.—2. The ornamented part, on a larger fcale.— 3. A cap ornamented with feathers, and girt with a fligg.—4. A comb.—5. A becket, or piece of cord made of cocoa-nut bark, ufed in throwing their lance?. —6, and 7. Different clubs. —8. A pick-axe ufed in cultivating the ground.— o. An adze. XXL Ornaments, utenfils, and weapons at the Friendly Ifles. .1. A bow and arrow.—2. A frontlet of red feathers. 3. 6. Bafkets.—4. A comb.—5. A mufical instrument, compofed of reeds.—7. A club.—8. The end of a lance; the point of which is wood hardened in the fire.—9. Theaforefaid lance entire. a v o y- A A A A \ I \ JL 1 I Tl ■1^ Hiewing the Tracks of fome of tlie Jiv Captain ^LuiES Cook diftingniflie d Navigators: of bis t Ma&ES ty's < \',ja DarjYoikyd-41 It. Walk LoNGITriiRS ('J t/lt ISJLATSTHvS //(/8 • . . .'•* ■ X X /Ion Island.................................................Xj£^SKf*(N, ^ llaun/a.....................................\ >jr6'- ^y&taf* N V N liolaliola.................................*.......^.\i6'-xpjj7-jc>\ O/iamancno i/i Ulidca..................................Nj£ff$s$&&> Owhamc in Ilaa/a/nc..................................../v^W i^7\ \ \ v Tapoamanu......................................................^^ff*S9\ S ocietv 111 auds Gulielnms Wliitehurch, fculpfit;Amio,i7^6. Howl.......10 h3 'li n I ! Two Gmfips. . /8 <>j//-i c Resolution L ij >iin,',!) Ia//oon I...........18 i:ijnifi Whitsunday I.________/<; v-V;-/)" j j 1 Q. Charlotts I.............hi ii\{]8oi \ ! I IH'./ Chnstma............................yggi w^s, faster Island,or Daviss land-----.................................. Jlasiiuero.^ Aeaml/'/u; to Cap'." Cartoets run fiom \jaMfj**® Juan Fernando \ '^reiahts o/AIaiplhanes..........^.............. ..........'frlfa* < 1 1 1 Cape I Torn.........................................................................................\&.'A('7it> 1 * 1 ' ' ! ■ 1 1 1 ! ' I I > 1 1 /^/•//V/,v//v/''7w//77 tp- ?n"Sfr,t/i,m in .V,;r S/,,r/ SAotZah* £ ThJfGxle/lto /ft.- SfatmdZtnAm 2P VOYAGE towards the SOUTH POLE, and ROUND THE WORLD. B O O K I. From our Departure from England, to leaving the Society Ifles, the firft Time. C H A P. I. Paffage from Deptford to the Cape of Good Hopey with a?i Account of feveral Incidents that happened by the Wayy and eTranfac~lio?is there, ISAILED from Deptford, April 9th, 1772, but got no farther than Woolwich; where I was detained by eafterly winds till the 22d, when the fliip fell down to Long Reach, and the next day was joined by the Adventure Here both fhips received on board their powder, guns, gunner's florcs, and marines. Vol. I. *B On On the ioth of May we left Long Reach, with orders to touch at Plymouth; but in plying down the river, the Refolution was found to be very crank, which made it neceffary to put into Sheernefs, in order to remove this evil, by making fome alterations in her upper works. Thefe the officers of the yard were ordered to take in hand immediately; and Lord Sandwich and Sir Hugh Pallifer came down to fee them executed in fuch a manner as might effectually anfwer the purpofe intended. On the 22d of June the fhip was again completed for fea, when i failed from Sheernefs ; and on the 3d of July, joined the Adventure in Plymouth Sound. The evening before, we met, off the Sound, Lord Sandwich, in the Augufta yacht (who was on his return from vifiting the feveral dock-yards) with the Glory frigate and Hazard floop. We faluted his Lordfhip with feventeen guns ; and foon after he and Sir Hugh Pallifer gave us the lail mark of the very great attention they had paid to this equipment, by coming on board, to fatisfy themfelves that every thing was done to my wifh, and that the fhip was found to anfwer to my fatisfaction. At Plymouth i received my inftruc*ttans, dated the 25th of June, directing me to take under my command the Adventure j to make the belt of my way to the ifland of Madeira, there to take in a fupply of wine, and then proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, where I was to refrefli the mips companies, and take on board fuch provifions and necef-faries as i might ftand in need of. After leaving the Cape of Good Hope, i was to proceed to the fouthward, and endeavour to fall in with Cape Circumcifion, which was faid by Monfieur Bouvet to lie in the latitude of 540 South, and in about u° 20' Eaft longitude from Greenwich. If I 7 difcovered difcovered this Cape, I was to fatisfy myfelf whether it was a part of the continent, which had fo much engaged the attention of geographers and former navigators, or a part of an ifland. If it proved to be the former, I was to employ myfelf diligently in exploring as great an extent of it as I could j and to make fuch notations thereon, and obfervations of every kind, as might be ufeful either to navigation or commerce, or tend to the promotion of natural knowledge. I was alfo directed to obferve the genius, temper, difpofition, and number, of the inhabitants, if there were any, and endeavour, by all proper means, to cultivate a friendfhip and alliance with them; making them prefents of fuch things as they might value; inviting them to traffic, and fhewing them every kind of civility and regard. I was to continue to employ myfelf on this fervice, and making difcoveries, either to the Eaflward or Weftward, as my filiation might render moft eligible j keeping in as high a latitude as I could, and profecuting my difcoveries as near to the South Pole as pofliblc; fo long as the condition of the fhips, the health of their crews, and the ftate of their provifions, would admit of; taking care to referve as much of the latter as would enable me to reach fome known port, where I was to procure a fufliciency to bring me home to England. But if Cape Circumcifion fhould prove to be part of an ifland only, or if I fhould not be able to find the faid Cape, I was in the firft cafe to make the ncceflary furvey of the ifland, and then to ftand on to the Southward, fo long as I judged there was a likelihood of falling in with the continent; which I was alfo to do in the latter cafe ; and then to proceed to the Eaflward, in further fearch of the raid continent, as well as to make difcoveries of fuch iflands as might be fituated in that unexplored part of the Southern B 2 hemifphere; hemifphere; keeping in high latitudes, and profecuting my difcoveries, as above mentioned, as near the pole as pof-fible, until I had circumnavigated the globe; after which I was to proceed to the Cape of Good Hope, and from thence to Spithead. In the profecution of thefe difcoveries, whenever the fea-fon of the year rendered it unfafe for me to continue in high latitudes, I was to retire to fome known place to the Northward, to refrefh my people, and refit the mips; and to return again to the Southward, as foon as the feafon of the year would admit of it. In all unforefeen cafes, I was authorifed to proceed according to my own difcretion ; and in cafe the Refolution mould be loft or difabled, I was to profecute the voyage on board the Adventure. I gave a copy of thefe inftructions to Captain Furneaux, with an order directing him to carry them into execution; and, in cafe he was feparated from me, appointed the ifland of Madeira for the firft place of rendezvous, Port Praya in the ifland of St. Jago for the fecond, Cape of Good Hope for the third, and New Zealand for the fourth. During our flay at Plymouth, Menieurs Wales and Bayley^ the two aftronomers, made obfervations on Drake's Ifland, in order to afcertain the latitude, longitude, and true time for putting the time-pieces or watches in motion. The latitude was found to be $o° 21' 30" North ; and the longitude 40 201 Weft of Greenwich, which, in this voyage, is every where to be underftood as the firft meridian, and from which the longitude is reckoned Eaft and Weft to 1800 each way. On the 10th of July, the watches were fet a-going in the prefence of the two aftronomers, Captain Furneaux, the firft firft lieutenants of the fhips, and myfelf, and put on board. 'if** The two on board the Adventure were made by Mr. Arnold, <—*—' and alfo one of thofe on board the Refolution; but the other was made by Mr. Kendal, upon the fame principle, in every refpeel:, as Mr. Harrifon's time-piece. The commander, firft lieutenant, and aftronomcr, on board each of the mips, kept, each of them, keys of the boxes which contained the watches, and were always to be prefent at the winding them up, and comparing the one with the other; or fome other officer, if at any time through indifpofition, or abfence upon any other neceflary duties, any of them could not conveniently attend. The fame day, according to the cuftom of the navy, the companies of both fhips were paid two months wages in advance, and as a further encouragement for their going this extraordinary voyage, they were alfo paid the wages due to them to the 28th of the preceding May. This enabled them to provide ncceffaries for the voyage. On the 13th, at fix o'clock in the morning, i failed from Monday 13. Plymouth Sound, with the Adventure in company; and on the evening of the 29th, anchored in Funchiale Road, in Wednef. 20; the ifland of Madeira. The next morning i faluted the gar-nfon with eleven guns; which compliment was immediately returned. Soon after, i went on fliore, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, the two Mr. Forfters, and Mr. Wales. At our landing, we were received by a gentleman from the Vice-Conful, Mr. Sills, who conducted us to the houfe of Mr* Loughnans, the moft confiderablc Englifh merchant in the place. This gentleman not only obtained leave for Mr. Forfter to fearch the ifland for plants, but procured us every other thing we wanted, and infilled on our accommodating our-fclves at his houfe during our ftay. The lW' The town of Funchialc, which is the capital of the ifland, is v_v-_^ fituated about the middle of the South fide, in the bottom of the bay of the fame name, in latitude 320 33' 34// North, longitude 17012^' Weft, The longitude was deduced from lunar obfervations made by Mr. Wales, and reduced to the town by Mr-Kendal's watch, which made the longitude 170 10' 14" Weft. During our flay here, the crews of both fhips were fupplied with frcfh beef and onions; and a quantity of the latter was diftributed amongft them for a fea llorc. Auguit. Having got on board a fupply of water, wine, and other Saturday i. neceffarieSj wc iefc Madeira on the firft of Auguft, and flood Tuefday4. to the Southward, with a fine gale at N. E. On the 4th we paffed Palma> one of the Canary ifles. It is of a height to be feen twelve or fourteen leagues, and lies in the lati- Wednef. 5. tude 28° 38' North, longitude iy° 58' Weft. The next day we faw the ifle of Ferro, and palled it at the diftance of fourteen leagues. I judged it to lie in the latitude of 27° 42North, and longitude 1B0 9' Weft. I now made three puncheons of beer, of the infpiiTated juice of malt. The proportion I made ufe of was about ten of water to one of juice. Fifteen of the nineteen half barrels of the infpijfated juice which we had on board, were produced from wort that was hopped before infpiflatcd. The other four were made of beer that had been both hopped and fermented before infpiiTated. This laft requires no other preparation to make it fit for ufe, than to mix it with cold water, from one part in eight, to one part in twelve of water (or in fuch other proportion as might be liked), then flop it down ; and, in a few days it will be brifk, and drinkable. But the other fort, after being mixed with water in the fame manner, will require to be fermented with.^3/?, in the theiifual way of making beer; at leafl it was fo thought. ^77^ However, experience taught us that this will not always be '-1—-> neceffary. For by the heat of the weather and the agitation of the fhip, both forts were at this time in the higheft (late of fermentation, and had hitherto evaded all our endeavours to flop it. If this juice could be kept from fermenting, it certainly would be a moll: valuable article at fea. On finding that our flock of water would not laft us to the Cape of Good Flope, without putting the people to a fcanty allowance, I refolved to flop at St. Jago for a fupply. On the 9th, at nine o'clock in the morning, we made Sunday g; the ifland of Bonavifla, bearing S. W. The next day, we palled the ifle of Mayo on our right; and the fame evening anchored in Port Praya, in the ifland of St. Jago, in eighteen fathom water. The Eafl point of the bay bore Eaft; the Well point S. W. ' S. ; and the fort N. W. I immediately difpatched an officer to afk leave to water, and purchafc re-frefhmcnts; which was granted. On the return of the officer I falutcd the fort with eleven guns, on a promife of its being returned with an equal number. But by a miflakc, as they pretended, the falutc was returned with only nine; for which the governor made an excufe the next day. The 14th in the evening, having completed our water, and got Friday 14. on board a fupply of refrefhments; fuch as hogs, goats, fowls, and fruit; we put to fea, and proceeded on our voyage. Port Praya is a fmall bay, fituatcd about the middle of the South fide of the ifland of St. Jago, in the latitude of H° 53' 30" North, longitude 30' Well. It may be known, efpecially in coming from the Eafl, by the fouthermofl hill on the ifland; which is round, and peaked at top; and lies a little way inland, in the direction of Well from the port. This This mark is the more necclTary, as there is a fmall cove about a league to the Eaflward, with a fandy beach in the bottom of it, a valley and cocoa-nut trees behind, which flrangers may miflake for Port Praya, as we ourfelves did* The two points which form the entrance of Port Praya bay, are rather low, and in the direction of W. S. W. and E. N. E. half a league from each other. Clofe to the Well point are funken rocks, on which the fea continually breaks. The bay lies in, N. W. near half a league ; and the depth of water is from fourteen to four fathoms. Large ihips ought not to anchor in lefs than eight, in which depth the South end of the Green Ifland (a fmall ifland lying under the Weft fhore) will bear Weft. You water at a well that is behind the beach at the head of the bay. The water is tolerable, but fcarce j and bad getting off, on account of a great furf on the beach. The refrefhments to be got here, are bullocks, hogs, goats, flieep, poultry, and fruits. The goats are of the Antelope kind, fo extraordinarily lean, that hardly any thing can equal them ; and the bullocks, hogs, and fheep are not much better. Bullocks muft be purchafed with money ; the price is twelve Spanifh dollars a head, weighing between 250 and 300 pounds. Other articles may be got from the natives in exchange for old cloaths, &c. But the fale of bullocks is confined to a company of merchants; to whom this privilege is granted, and who keep an agent refiding upon the fpot. The fort above mentioned feems wholly defigned for the protection of the bay, and is well fuuated for that purpofe ; being built on an elevation, which rifes directly from the fea on the right, at the head of the bay. We « We had no fooner got clear of Port Praya, than we got a frefh gale at N. N. E.; which blew in fqualls, attended with ^—t mowers of rain. But the next day the wind and mowers abated, and veered to the South. It was, however, variable and unfettlcd for feveral days, accompanied with dark gloomy weather, and fhowers of rain. On the 19th, in the afternoon, one of the carpenter's- Wed. toy mates fell over board, and was drowned. He was over the fide, fitting in one of the fcuttles; from whence, it was fup- ' pofed, he had fallen: for he was not feen till the very in-flant he funk under the fhip's ftern, when our endeavours to fave him were too late. This lofs was fennbly felt during the voyage, as he was a fober man and a good workman. About noon the next day, the rain poured down Thurfday 20. upon us not in drops, but in flreams. The wind, at the fame time, was variable, and fqually; which obliged the people to attend the decks, fo that few in the fhips efcaped a good foaking. We, however, benefited by it, as it gave us an opportunity of fdling all our empty water cafks. This heavy rain at laft brought on a dead calm, which continued twenty-four hours, when it was fucceeded by a breeze from S. W. Betwixt this point and South, it continued for feveral days ; and blew, at times, in fqualls, attended with rain and hot fultry weather. The mercury in the thermometers at noon, kept generally from 79 to 82. On the 27th, fpake with Captain Furneaux, who in- Thurfday 27. formed us that one of his petty officers was dead. At this time nve had not one fick on board ; although we had every thing of this kind to fear from the rain we had had, which is a great promoter of ficknefs in hot climates. To prevent this, and agreeable to fome hints I had from Sir Hugh Pallifer, C and and from Captain Campbell, I took every necelTary precau-v.—-v-—i tion by airing and drying the fhip with fires made betwixt decks, fmoking, &c. and by obliging the people to air their bedding, wafh and dry their cloaths, whenever there was an opportunity. A neglect of thefe things caufeth a difagrceable fmell below, affects the air, and feldom fails to bring on ficknefs; but more efpecially in hot and wet weather. We now began to fee fome of thofe birds which are faid never to fly far from land ; that is, man of war, and tropic birds, gannets, &c. No land, however, that we knew oft-could be nearer than eighty leagues. Sunday 30. Gn the 30th, at noon, being in the latitude of 2° 35' North, longitude f 30' Weft, and the wind having veered to the Eafl of South, we tacked and flretched to the S. W. In the latitude of op 52' North, longitude 90 25' Weft, we had one calm day, which gave us an opportunity of trying the current in a boat. We found it fet to the North one third of a mile an hour. We had reafon to expect this from the difference we frequently found between the obferved latitude; and that given by the log: and Mr, Kendal's watch fliewed us, that it fet to the Eaft alfo. This was fully confirmed by the lunar obfervations; when it appeared, that we were 30 o' more to the Eaft than the common reckoning. At the time of trying the current, the mercury in the thermometer in the open air flood at 754. j and when immerged in the furface of the fea, at 74; but when immerged eighty fai-thorns deep (where it remained fifteen minutes) when it came up, the mercury flood at 6§, At the fame time we founded, without finding bottom with a line of two hundred and fifty fathoms. The The calm was fuccecdcd by a light breeze at S. W., which J ° ' Auguir. kept veering by little and little to the South, and at laft to the «-„-> Eaflward of South, attended with clear ferene weather. At length, on the 8th of September, we crofled the line in the September. a r Saturday 8, longitude of 8° Weft ; after which the ceremony of ducking, &c. generally practifed on this occafion, was not omitted. The wind now veering more and more to the Eaft, and blowing a gentle top-gallant gale, in eight days it carried us into the latitude of 90 30' South, longitude 180 Weft. The weather was pleafant; and we daily faw fome of thofe birds which are looked upon as figns of the vicinity of land ; fuch as boobies, man of war, tropic birds, and gannets. We fuppofed they came from the ifle of Saint Matthew, or A feen (ion ; which ifles we muft have pafTed at no great diftance. On the 27th, in the latitude of 250 29', longitude 240 54', Sunday 27. we difcovered a fail to the Weft Handing after us. She was a fnow; and the colours fhe (hewed, either a Portuguefe or St. George's Enfign ; the diftance being too great to diftin-guifh the one from the other; and I did not choofe to wait to get nearer, or to fpeak with her. The wind now began to be variable. It firft veered to the North, where it remained two days with fair weather. Afterwards it came round by the Weft to the South ; where it remained two days longer, and after a few hours calm, fprung up at S. W. But here it remained not long, before it veered to S. En Eaft, and to the North of Eaft \ blew frefh, and by fqualls, with fhowers of rain. With thefe winds we advanced but (lowly, and without meeting with any thing remarkable till the nth of October, Vol. I. C - when Sunday 11. 177*. when at 6h 2am 12s, by Mr. KendaPs watch, the moon rofe October. J, J \—-n—j about four digits eclipfed; and foon after we prepared to obferve the end of the eclipfe, as follows, viz. h. in. s. By me at - - 6 53 51 with a common refractor. By Mr. Forfter - 6 jc 23 By Mr. Wales - 6 54 57 quadrant telefcope. By Mr. Pickerfgill 6 55 30 three feet refractor. By Mr. Gilbert 6 53 24 naked eye. By Mr. Hervey - 6_55_34 quadrant telefcope. Mean - - - G 54 46+ by the watch. 3 59 Watch flow of apparent time Apparent time 6 58 4$t end °f the eclipfe. Ditto - - 7 25 o at Greenwich. Dif. of longitude o 26 147 = 6° 33' 30" The longitude obferved by Mr. Wales was By the d andaAquilse 50 51' 1 By the d and Aldebaran 6 35 j Mean - - 6 13 o By Mr. Kendal's watch - - - 6° 53^ Monday 12. jhe next morning, having but little wind, we hoifted a boat out, to try if there was any current; but found none. Friday 16. From this time to the 16th, we had the wind between the North and Eafl, a gentle gale. We had for fome time ceafed to fee any of the birds before mentioned ; and were now ac. companied by albatrofTes, pintadoes, fheerwaters, &c. and a fmall grey peterel, lefs than a pigeon. It has a whitifh belly, and grey back, with a black flrokc acrofs from the tip of one wing to the tip of the other. Thefe birds fometimes vifited us in great flights. They are, as well as the pintadoes, Southern birds; and are, I believe, never feen within the tropics, or North of the Line. 2 On On the 17th, we faw a fail to the N. W., {landing to the T772» Eaflward, which hoifled Dutch colours. She kept us com- 1 pany for two days, but the third we out-failed her. Saturday 17. On the 21 ft, at yh 3om 205 A. M. our longitude, by the mean Wednef. si. of two obfervcd diftanccs of the fun and moon, was 8° 4' 30" Eaft; Mr. Kendal's watch at the fame time gave 70 22'. Our latitude was 350 20' South. The wind was now Eaflcrly, and continued fo till the 23d, when it veered to N. and F^ay 23, N. W. after fome hours calm ; in which we put a boat in the water, and Mr. Forfter fhot fome albatrofles and other birds, on which we feafted the next day, and found them exceedingly good. At the fame time we faw a Teal, or, as fome thought, a fea lion ; which probably might be an inhabitant of one of the ifles of Triftian de Cunha, being now nearly in their latitude, and about 50 Eaft of them. The wind continued but two days at N. W. and S. W.; then veered to the S. E., where it remained two days longer; then fixed at N. W., which carried us to our intended port. As we approached the land, the fea Fowl, which had accompanied us hitherto, began to leave us; at leaft they did not come in fuch numbers. Nor did we fee gannets, or the black bird, commonly called the Cape Hen, till we were nearly within fight of the Cape. Nor did we ftrike founding till Penguin ifland bore N. N. E. diftant two or three leagues; where we had fifty fathom water. Not but that the foundings may extend farther off. However, I am very fure that they do not extend very far Weft from the Cape. For we could not find ground with a line of 210 fathoms, 25 leagues Weft of Table Bay ; the fame at 35 leagues, and at 64 leagues. I founded thefe three times, in order to find C 3 a bank, 1772- a bank, which, I had been told, lies to the Weft of the Cane; Oaober. _ _ - ' 1 v__M___> but how far I never could learn. I was told before I left England, by fome gentlemen who were well enough acquainted with the navigation between England and the Cape of Good Hope, that I failed at an improper feafon of the year; and that I mould meet with much calm weather, near and under the line. This probably may be the cafe fome years. It is however not general. On the contrary, we hardly met with any calms ; but a brifk S. W. wind in thofe very latitudes where the calms are expected. Nor did we meet with any of thofe tornadoes, fo much fpoken of by other navigators. However, what they have faid of the current fet ting towards the coaft of Guinea, as you approach that more, is true. For, from the time of our leaving St. Jago, to our arrival into the latitude of i°t North, which was eleven days, wc were carried by the current 30 of longitude more Eaft than our reckoning. On the other hand, after we had croffed the line, and got the S. E. Trade Wind, we always found by ob« fervation, that the fhip outftripped the reckoning, which we judged to be owing to a current fetting between the South and Weft. But, upon the whole, the currents in this run fcemcd to balance each other; for upon our arrival at the Cape, the difference of longitude by dead reckoning kept from England, without once being corrected, was only three quarters of a degree lefs than that by obfervation. ThurfJay 29. At two in the afternoon, on the 29th, we made the land of the Cape of Good Hope. The Table Mountain, which is over the Cape Town, bore E. S. E., diftance 12 or 14 leagues. At this time it was a good dealobfcured by clouds, otherwife it might, from its height, have been feen at a much 3 greater greater diftance. We now crowded all the fail we could, *772* 0 m O&ober. thinking to get into the bay before dark. But when found this could not be accomplished, we fhortened fail, Thurfday 29' and fpent the night ftanding off and on. Between eight and' nine o'clock, the whole fea, within the compafs of our fight, became at once, as it were, illuminated; or, what the fca-men call, all on fire. This appearance of the fea, in fome degree, is very common; but the caufe is not fo generally known. Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander had fatisficd me that it was occafioned by fea infects. Mr. Forfter, however, feemed not to favour this opinion. I therefore had fome buckets of water drawn up from along-fide the fhip, which we found full of an innumerable quantity of fmall globular infects, about the (ize of a common pin's head, and quite tranfparent. There was no doubt of their being living animals, when in their own proper element, though we could not perceive any life in them: Mr. Forfter, whole province it is more minutely to defcribe things of this nature, was now well fatisficd with the caufe of the fca's illumination. At length day-light came and brought us fair weather; Fii^y 3«~ and having ftood into Table Bay, with the Adventure in company, we anchored in five fathom water. We afterwards moored N. E. and S. W.; Green Point, on the Weft point of the bay, bearing N. W. by W.; and the church, in one with the valley between the Table Mountain and the Sugar-Loaf or Lion's Head, bearing. S. W. by S. and diftant from the landing place near the fort, one mile. We had no fooner anchored than we were vifited by the Captain of the port, or Mafter Attendant, fome other officers belonging to the company, and Mr. Brandt. This laft gentler-man brought us off fuch things as could not fail of being acceptable oaobeJ accePtable to perfons coming from fea. The purport of the v-—,—Matter Attendant's vifit was, according to cuftom, to take an account of the fhips ; to inquire into the health of the crews; and, in particular, if the fmall-pox was on board; a thing they dread, above all others, at the Cape, and for thefe purpofes a furgeon is always one of the vifitants. My firft ftep after anchoring, was to fend an officer to wait on Baron Plettenberg, the Governor, to acquaint him with our arrival, and the reafons which induced me to put in there. To this the officer received a very polite anfwer; and, upon his return, we faluted the garrifon with eleven guns, which compliment was returned. Soon after i went on fhore myfelf, and waited upon the Governor, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, and the two Mr. Forfters. He received us with great politenefs, and promifed me every affiftance the place could afford. From him i learned that two French fhips from the Mauritius, about eight months before, had difcovered land, in the latitude of 480 South, and in the meridian of that ifland, along which they failed forty miles, till they came to a bay into which they were about to enter, when they were driven off and feparated in a hard gale of wind, after having loft fome of their boats and people, which they had fent to found the bay. One of the fhips, viz. the La Fortune, foon after arrived at the Mauritius, the Captain of which was fent home to France with an account of the difcovery. The Governor alfo informed me, that in March laft, two other French fhips from the ifland of Mauritius, touched at the Cape in their way to the South Pacific Ocean ; where they were going to make difcoveries, under the command of M. Marion. Aotourou, the man M. de Bougainville brought from Otaheite, was to have returned with M. Marion, had he been living. After After having vifited the governor and fome other principal perfons of the place, we fixed ourfelves at Mr. Brandt^ the ufual refidence of mofl officers belonging to Englifh fhips. This gentleman fpares neither trouble nor expence to make his houfe agreeable to thofe who favour him with their company, and to accommodate them with every thing they want. With him I concerted meafures for fupplying the fhips with provifions, and all other necefTaries they wanted; which he fet about procuring without delay, while the fea-xnen on board were employed in overhauling the rigging; and the carpenters in caulking the fhips fides and decks, 8cc. MefTrs. Wales and Bayley got all their inflruments on fhore, in order to make agronomical obfervations for ascertaining the going of the watches, and other purpofes. The refult of fome of thefe obfervations flic wed, that Mr. Kendal's watch had anfwered beyond all expectation, by pointing out the longitude of this place to within one minute of time to what it was obferved by MefTrs. Mafon and Dixon in 1761. Three or four days after us, two Dutch Indiamen arrived here from Holland; after a paffage of between four and five months, in which one loft, by the fcurvy and other putrid difeafes, 150 men; and the other 41. They fent, on their arrival, great numbers to the hofpital in very dreadful circumftanccs. It is remarkable that one of thefe fhips touched at Port Praya, and left it a month before we arrived there; and yet we got here three days before her. The Dutch at the Cape, having found their hofpital too fmall for the reception of their fick, were going to build a new one at the Eaft part of the town; the foundation of which was laid with great ceremony while we were there. D By 1772. By the hcahhy condition of the crews of both fhips at our November. ' 1 u—s—u arrival, I thought to have made my flay at the Cape very fhort. But, as the bread we wanted was unbaked, and the fpirit, which I found fcarce, to be collected from different: parts out of the country, it was the 18th of November before we had got every thing on board, and the 22d before we could put to fea. During this flay the crews of both fhips were ferved every day with frefh beef or mutton, new baked bread, and as much greens as they could eat. The fhips were caulked and painted ; and, in every refpect, put in as .good a condition as when they left England. Some alterations in the officers took place in the Adventure. Mr. Shank the firft lieutenant, having been in an ill flate of health ever fince we failed from Plymouth, and not finding him-felf recover here, defired my leave to quit, in order to return home for the re-eflablifhment of his health. As his requefl appeared to be well-founded, I granted him leave accordingly, and appointed Mr. Kemp, firft lieutenant in his room; and Mr. Burney, one of my midfhipmen, fecond, in the room of Mr. Kemp. Mr. Forfler, whofe whole time was taken up in the pur-fuit of Natural Hiftory and Botany, met with a Swedifh gentleman, one Mr. Sparman, who underftood fomething of thefe fciences, having fludied under Dr. Linnams. He being willing to embark with us, Mr. Forfler flrongly importuned me to take him on board; thinking that he would be of great afliftance to him in the courfe of the voyage. I at lafl confented, and he embarked with us accordingly, as an afhftant to Mr. Forfler; who bore his expences on board, and allowed him a yearly flipend befides. Mr. Hodges employed himfelf here in drawing a view of the Cape, town, and parts adjacent, in oil colours; which l—„—j was properly packed up, with fome others, and left with Mr. Brandt, in order to be forwarded to the Admiralty by the firft fhip that fhould fail for England. CHAP. II. Departure from the Cape of Good Hope, in fearch of & Southern Continent. HAVING at length finifhed my bufinefs at the Cape, and taken leave of the Governor and fome others of the chief officers, who, with very obliging readinefs, had given me all the affiftance I could defire, on the 2ad Novem- Sund»y2z ber, we repaired on board; and at three o'clock in the afternoon, weighed, and came to fail with the wind at N. by W. As foon as the anchor was up, we faluted the fort with fifteen guns, which was immediately returned; and after making a few trips, got out of the bay by feven o'clock, at which time the town bore S. E. diftant four miles. After this we flood to the Weftward all night, in order to get clear of the land; having the wind at N. N. W. and N. W. blowing in fqualls, attended wnh rain, which obliged us to reef our topfails. The fea was again illuminated for fome time, in the fame manner as it was the night before we arrived in Table Bay, Having got clear of the land, I directed my courfe for Cape Circumcifion. The wind continued at N. W. a moderate gale, until the 24th; when it veered round to the Taefdayzj Eaflward. On the noon of this day, we were in the latitude D 2 of 1772. November. v--*v——* Tuefday 24. Sunday 29. December. Sunday 6. of 350 25' South, and 29' Weft of the Cape; and had abundance of albatrofles about us, feveral of which were caught with hook and line; and were very well relifhed by many of the people, notwithflanding they were at this time ferved with frefh mutton. Judging that we mould foon come into cold weather, I ordered flops to be ferved to fuch as were in want; and gave to each man the fearnought jacket and trowfers allowed them by the Admiralty. The wind continued eafterly for two days, and blew a moderate gale, which brought us into the latitude of 390 4', and 2" of longitude Weft of the Cape, thermometer 52^.. The wind now came to W. and S* W.; and on the 29th fixed at W. N. W. and increafcd to a ftorm, which continued, with fome few intervals of moderate weather, till the 6th of December ; when we were in the latitude of 480 41' South, and longitude 180 24' Eaft. This gale, which was attended with rain and hail, blew at times with fuch violence that we could carry no fails ; by which means we were driven far to the caftward of our intended courfe, and no hopes were left me of reaching Cape Circumcifion. But the greateft misfortune that attended us, was the lofs of great part of our live-tlock ; which we had brought from the Cape, and which confifted of fheep, hogs, and geefe. Indeed this fudden tranfition from warm mild weather, to extreme cold and wet, made every man in the fhip feel its effects. For by this time the mercury in the thermometer had fallen to 38; whereas at the Cape it was generally at 67 and upwards. I now made fome addition to the people's allowance of fpirit, by giving them a dram whenever I thought it neceffary, and ordered Captain Furneaux to do the fame. The night proved clear and ferene, and the only one that was fo fince we left 6 the the Cape ; and the next morning the rifing fun gave us fuch ig* flattering hopes of a fine day, that we were induced to let all *-,-1 r i r> •» ' 3 ,i , Monday?. the reefs out or the top-fails, and to get top-gallant yards acrofs, in order to make the moft of a frcfh gale at North. Our hopes, however, foon vanifhed ; for before eight o'clock, the ferenity of the fky was changed into a thick haze, accompanied with rain. The gale increafing obliged us to hand the main-fail, clofe-reef our top-fails, and to flrike top-gallant-yards. The barometer at this time was unufu-ally low, which foreboded an approaching norm; and this happened accordingly. For, by one o'clock P. M. the wind, which was at N. W., blew with fuch flrength as obliged us to take in all our fails, to flrike top-gallant-mafts, and to get the fpritfail-yard in. And I thought proper to wear, and lie to, under a mizzen-ftay-fail, with the fhips heads to the N. E., as they would bow the fea, which ran prodigioufly high, better on this tack. At eight o'clock next morning, being the 8th, we wore, T1'^^-and lay on the other tack ; the gale was a little abated, but the fea ran too high to make fail, any more than the fore-top-mafl flay-fail. In the evening, being in the latitude of 49 ^ 40' South, and 1*4 Eaft of the Cape, we faw two penguins and fome fea or rock weed, which occafioned us to found, without finding ground at 100 fathoms. At eight P. M. we wore, and lay with our heads to the N. E. till three o'clock in the morning of the 9th, then wore again to the Southward, Wednef. 9,. the wind blowing in fqualls attended with fhowers of fnow. At eight, being fomething more moderate, I made the Adventure fignal to make fail, and foon after made fail ourfelves under the courfes, and clofe-reefed top-fails. In the evening, took in the top-fails and main-fail, and brought to, under i772- under forefail and mizzcn, thermometer at o6°. The December. —u--» wind, ftill at N. W. blew a frefli gale, accompanied with a nc *9' very high fea. In the night had a pretty {mart froft with fnow. Thurfday 10. In the morning of the ioth we made fail under courfes and topfails clofe-reefed; and made the fignal for the Adventure to make fail and lead. At eight o'clock faw an ifland of ice to the Weftward of us, being then in die latitude of 5*0* 40' South, and longitude 20 o' Eaft of the Cape of Good Hope. Soon after, the wind moderated, and we let all the reefs out of the topfails, got the fpritfail-yard out, and topgallant-mail: up. The weather coming hazy, I called the Adventure by fignal under my ftern; which was no fooner done, than the haze increafed fo much, with fnow and fleer, that we did not fee an ifland of ice, which we were fleering directly for, till we were lefs than a mile from it. I judged it to be about 50 feet high, and half a mile in circuit. It was flat at top, and its fides rofe in a perpendicular direction, againft which the fea broke exceedingly high. Captain Furneaux at firft took this ice for land, and hauled off from it, until called back by fignal. As the weather was foggy, it was neceffary to proceed with caution. We therefore reefed our topfails, and at the fame time founded, but found no ground with 150 fathoms. We kept on to the Southward with the wind at North till night, which we fpent in making fhort trips, firft one way and then another, under an eafy fail; thermometer this 24 hours from 36*- to 31. FHJay n. At day-light in the morning of the nth, we made fail to the Southward with the wind at Weft, having a frefli gale attended with fleet and fnow. At noon we were in the latitude of 51° 50- South, and longitude 210 3' E., where we faw fome white 6 birds birds about the fize of pigeons, with blackifh bills and feet. 1772- n December. I never faw any fuch before ; and Mr. Forfter had no know- v_^— ledge of them. I believe them to be of the peterel tribe, *nday lU and natives of thefe icy fcas. At this time we pafTed between two ice iflands, which lay at a little diftance from each other. In the night the wind veered to N. W\, which enabled us Saturday 12^ to fleer S. W. On the 12 th, we had flill thick hazy weather, with fleet and fnow; fo that we were obliged to proceed with great caution on account of the ice iflands. Six of thefe we paffed this day; fome of them near two miles in circuit, and 60 feet high. And yet, fuch was the force and height of the waves, that the fea broke quite over them.. This exhibited a view which for a few moments was pleaf-ing to the eye ; but when wc reflected on the danger, the mind was filled with horror. For were a fhip to get againfl the weather fide of one of thefe iflands when the fea runs high, fhe would be dallied to pieces in a moment. Upon our getting among the ice iflands, the albatrofles left us; that is, we faw but one now and then. Nor did our other companions the pintadoes, fheerwaters, fmall grey birds, fulmars, &c. appear in fuch numbers; on the other hand, penguins began to make their appearance. Two of thefe birds were feen to-day. The wind in the night veered to Weft, and at lafl fixed at Sunday iS„ S. W. a frefh gale, with fleet and fnow, which froze on our fails and rigging as it fell, fo that they were all hung with icicles. We kept on to the Southward, pafled no lefs than eighteen ice iflands, and faw more penguins. At noon on the 13th, we were in the latitude of 540 South, which is thg latitude of Cape Circumcifion, difcovered by M. Bouvet in 1739* December *^5 ^ut we were ten degrees of longitude Eafl of it; that <-1--j is, near 118 leagues in this latitude. We flood on to the Sunday 13. S. S. E. till eight o'clock in the evening, the weather Hill continuing thick and hazy, with fleet and fnow. From noon till this time, twenty ice iflands, of various extent both for height and circuit, prefented themfelves to our view. At eight o'clock we founded, but found no ground with 150 fathom of line. We now tacked and made a trip to the Northward till midnight, when we flood again to the Southward; and at half Monday 14. an hour pall fix o'clock in the morning of the 14th, we were flopped by an immenfe field of low ice ; to which we could fee no end, either to the eafl, weft, or fouth. In different parts of this field were iflands or hills of ice, like thofe we found floating in the fea,; and fome on board thought they faw land alfo over the ice, bearing S. W. by S. I even thought fo myfelf; but changed my opinion upon more narrowly examining thefe ice hills, and the various appearances they made when feen through the haze. For at this time it was both hazy and cloudy in the horizon ; fo that a diftant object could not be feen diftinct. Being now in the latitude of 540 50' South, and longitude 210 34' Eaft, and having the wind at N. W., we bore away along the edge of the ice, fleering S. S. E. and S. E. according to the direction of the North fide of it, where we faw many whales, penguins, fome white birds, pintadoes, &c. At eight o'clock we brought to under a point of the ice, where we had fmooth water: and I fent on board for Captain Furneaux. After we had fixed on rendezvoufes in cafe of feparation, and fome other matters for the better keeping company, he returned on board, and we made fail again along along the ice. Some pieces we took up along-fide, which D*W^r yielded frefh water. At noon we had a good obfervation, <-*-' and found ourfelves in latitude 54° 55' South. We continued a S. E. courfe along the edge of the ice, till one o'clock, when we came to a point round which we hauled S. S. W. the fea appearing to be clear of ice in that direction. Rut after running four leagues upon this courfe, with the ice on our flarboard fide, we found ourfelves quite imbayed ; the ice extending from N. N. E. round by the Weft and South, to Eafl, in one compact body. The weather was indifferently clear ; and yet we could fee no end to it. At five o'clock we hauled up Eafl, wind at North, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extreme Eaft point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S. over which appeared a clear fea. We however fpent the night in making fhort boards, under an eafy fail. Thermometer, thefe 24 hours, from 32 to 30. Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N. W. a fmall Tuefday^. gale, thick foggy weather, with much fnow; thermometer from 32 to 27 j fo that our fails and rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was fo thick, at times, that we could not fee the length of the fhip; and we had much difficulty to avoid the many iflands of ice that furrounded us. About noon, having but little wind, we hoifled out a boat to try the current, which we found fet S. E. near 4 of a mile an hour. At the fame time, a thermometer, which in the open air was at 320, in the furface of the fea was at 300; and, after being immerged 100 fathoms deep for about 15 or 20 minutes, came up at 340, which is only 2° above freezing. Our latitude at this time was 550 8'. E The Weclnef. |6. ^17:2. The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon December. - of the next day, when it cleared away a littlc> and we made fail to the fouthward, wind mil at N. W. a gentle gale. We had not run long to the fouthward before we fell in with the main field of ice extending from S. S. W. to E. We now bore away to Eaft along the edge of it j but at night hauled off North, with the wind at W. N. W. a gentle gale, attended with fnow. Tkarfdgy 17. At four in the morning on the 17th, flood again to the fouth; but was again obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the fide of which we fteercd betwixt E. and S. S. W. hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes of finding a paflage to the South. But we found every where the ice clofed. We had a gentle gale at N. W. with fhowers of fnow. At noon we were, by obfervation, in the latitude of S5° *6' South. In the evening the weather was clear and ferene. In the courfe of this day we faw many whales, one feal, penguins, fome of the white birds, another fort of pctcrcl, which is brown and white, and not much unlike a pintado ; and fome other forts already known. We found the fkirts of the loofe ice to be more broken than ufual; and it extended fome diflance beyond the main field, infomuch that we failed amongfl it the mofl part of the day j and the high ice iflands without us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we founded, but found no ground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled clofe upon a wind to the northward, as we could fee the field of ice extend as far as N. E. But this happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we were obliged to tack to avoid it. . At two o'clock the next morning we flood ao;ain to the Friday iS. ° northward, with the wind at N. W. by W., thinking to weather weather the ice upon this tack; on which we Hood but two hours, before we found ourfelves quite imbayed, being then in latitude 55° 8', longitude 240 3'. The wind veering more to the North, we tacked and flood to the weftward under all the fail we could carry, having a frefli breeze and clear weather, which laft was of fliort duration. For at fix o'clock it became hazy, and foon after there was thick fog; the wind veered to the N. E., frefhened, and brought with it fnow and fleet, which froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the field of ice» but at the fame time we were carried in amongft the ice iflands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty we kept clear of. Dangerous as it is to fail among thefe floating rocks (if I may be allowed to call them fo) in a thick fog; this, however, is preferable to being entangled with immenfe fields of ice under the fame circumilances. The great danger to be apprehended in this latter cafe, is the getting faft in the ice ; a fituation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men on board that had been in the Greenland trade ; the one of them in a fhip that lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay fix weeks, faft in this kind of ice ; which they called packed ice. What they call field ice is thicker; and the whole field, be it ever fo large, confifts of one piece. Whereas this which /call field ice, from its immenfe extent, confifts of many pieces of various fizes both in thicknefs and furface, from 30 or 40 feet fquare, to 3 or 4; packed clofe together; and in places heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard for a fhip's fide, that is not properly armed againft it. Flow long it may have lain, or will lie here, is a point not eafily E 2 determined. 1772- determined. Such ice is found in the Greenland feas all the 'December, . v—v—^ fummer long; and I think it cannot be colder there in the Aim me r, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly had no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept generally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of fummer. It is a general opinion, that the ice I have been fpeaking of, is formed in bays and rivers. Under this fuppofition we were led to believe that land was not far diftant; and that it even lay to the fouthward behind the ice, which alone hindered us from approaching to it. Therefore, as we had now failed above 30 leagues along the edge of the ice, without finding a paiTage to the fouth, I determined to run 30 or 40 leagues to the eaft, afterwards endeavour to get to the fouthwards, and, if I met with no land, or other impediment, to get behind the ice, and put the matter out of all manner of dif-pute. With this view, we kept {landing to the N. W., with the wind at N. E. and N., thick foggy weather, with fleet and fnow, till fix in the evening, when the wind veered to N. W(, and we tacked and flood to the eaflward, meeting with many iflands of ice of different magnitudes, and fome loole pieces : the thermometer from 30 to 34 ; weather very hazy, with fleet and fnow, and more fcnfibly colder than the thermometer fecmed to point out, in fo much that the whole crew complained. In order to enable them to fup-port this weather the better, I caufed the fleeves of their jackets (which were fo fhort as to expofe their arms) to be lengthened with baize ; and had a cap made for each man of the fame fluff, together with canvas; which proved of great fervice to them. 2 Some Some of our people beginning to have fymptoms of the fcurvy, the furgeons began to give them freih wort every - ■■J!. Lj clay, made from the malt we had on board for that purpofe. One man in particular was highly fcorbutic; and yet he had been taking of the rob of lemon and orange for fome time, without being benefited thereby. On the other hand, Captain Furneaux told me, that he had two men who, though far gone in this difeafe, were now in a manner entirely cured by it. We continued Handing to the eaflward till eight o'clock Monday 21, in the morning of the a ill \ when, being in the latitude of 5 3° 50', and longitude 290 24' Eafl, we hauled to the South with the wind at Weft, a frefli gale and hazy, with fnow. In the evening the wind fell, and the weather cleared up, fo as that we could fee a few leagues round us ; being in the latitude of 540 43' South, longitude 290 30' Eaft. At ten o'clock, feeing many iflands of ice a-head, and the weather coming on foggy, with fnow, we wore and flood to the northward, till three in the morning, when we flood Tuefda^ again to the South. At eight, the weather cleared up, and the wind came to W. S. W., with which we made all the fail we could to the South ; having never lefs than ten or twelve iflands of ice in fight. Next day we had the wind at S. W. and S. S. W., a gentle Wednef. 23^ gale, with now and then fhowers of fnow and hail. In the morning, being in the latitude of 55° 20' South, and longitude 310 30' Eaft, we hoifted out a boat to fee if there was any current j but found none. Mr. Forfter, who went in the boat, fhot fome of the fmall grey birds before mentioned, which were of the peterel tribe, and about the fize of a fmall pigeon. pigeon. Their back, and upper fide of their wings, their feet and bills, are of a blue grey colour. Their bellies, and under fide of their wings, are white, a little tinged with blue. The upper fide of their quill feathers is a dark blue tinged with black. A ilreak is formed by feathers nearly of this colour, along the upper parts of the wings, and crof-fing the back a little above the tail. The end of the tail feathers is alfo of the fame colour. Their bills are much broader than any I have feen of the fame tribe; and their tongues are remarkably broad. Thefe blue pcterels, as I fhall call them, are feen no where but in the fouthern hemifphere, from about the latitude of 28J, and upwards. Thermometer at 33° in the open air, at 32 in the fea at the fur-face, and at 344. when drawn, and 6*. minutes in drawing up from 100 fathoms below it, where it had been 16 minutes. On the 24th the wind blew from N. W. to N. E. a gentle gale, fair and cloudy. At noon we were by obfervation in the latitude of 560 31' South, and longitude 310 19' Eafl, the thermometer at 35. And being near an ifland of ice, which was about 50 feet high, and 400 fathoms in circuit, I fent the mafler in the jolly-boat to fee if any water run from it. He foon returned with an account, that there was not one ilrop, or any other appearances of thaw. In the evening we failed through feveral floats, or fields of loofe ice, lying in the direction of S. E. and N. W.; at the fame time we had continually feveral iflands of the fame compofition in fight. On the 25th, the wind veering round from the N. E. by the Eaft to South, it blew a gentle gale ; with which we Hood to the W. S. W. and at noon were in the latitude of 57' 50' South, and longitude 29° 32' Eaft. The weather was fair and and cloudy j the air fharp and cold, attended with a hard froft. 1772. And, although this was the middle of fummer with us, I 1 T much queftion if the day was colder in any part of England. The wind continued at South, blew a frefli gale, fair and cloudy weather, till near noon the next day, when we had Saturday 26, clear fun-fhine, and found ourfelves, by obfervation, in the latitude of 5S0 31' South, longitude 260 57' Eaft. In the courfe of the laft twenty-four hours we palled through feveral fields of broken loofe ice- They were in general narrow, but of a confiderable length, in the direction of N. W. and S. E. The ice was fo clofe in one, that it would hardly admit the fhip through it. The pieces were flat, from four to fix or eight inches thick, and appeared of that fort of ice which is generally formed in bays or rivers* Others again were different; the pieces forming various honey-combed branches, exactly like coral rocks, and exhibiting fuch a variety of figures as can hardly be conceived. We fuppofed this ice to have broke from the main field we had lately left; and which I was determined to get to the South of, or behind, if poflible ■, in order to fatisfy myfelf whether or no it joined to any land, as had been conjectured. With this view I kept on to the weftward^ with a gentle gale at South, and S. S. W. and foon after fix o'clock in the evening, we law fome penguins, which occa-fioned us to found; but we found no ground with 150 fathoms. In the morning of the 27th, we faw more loofe ice, but Sunday z7. not many iflands; and thofe we did fee were but fmall. The day being calm and plcafant, and the fea fmooth, we hoifted out a boat, from which Mr. Forfter fliot a penguin 6" and *7Tk and fome peterels. Thefe penguins differ not from thofe v—J feen in other parts of the world, except in fome minute particulars diftinguifhable only by naturalifts. Some of the peterels were of the blue fort; but differed from thofe before mentioned, in not having a broad bill; and the ends of their tail feathers were tipped with white inftead of dark blue. But whether thefe were only the diftinctions betwixt the. male and female, was a matter difputed by ournaturalifls. We were now in the latitude of 580 19' South, longitude * 240 39' Eafl, and took the opportunity of the calm to found; but found no ground with a line of 220 fathoms. The calm continued till fix in the evening, when it was fucceeded by a light breeze from the Eafl, which afterwards increafed to a frefli gale. .Monday 2!?, Tuefday 29. In the morning of the 28th I made the fignal to the Adventure to fpread four miles on my ftarboard beam ; and in this pofition we continued failing W. S. W. until four o'clock in the afternoon, when the hazy weather, attended with fnow fhowers, made it neceffary for us to join. Soon after we reefed our topfails, being furrounded on all fides with iflands of ice. In the morning of the 29th we let them out again, and fet top-gallant fails; flill continuing tmr courfe to the weftward; and meeting with feveral penguins. At noon we were, by obfervation, in the latitude of 590 12', longitude 19° i' Eafl; which is 30 more to the Weft than we were when we firft fell in with the field ice ; fo that it is pretty clear that it joined to no land, as was conjectured. Having come to a refolution, to run as far Weft as the meridian of Cape Circumcifion, provided we met with no impediment, as the diftance was not more than 80 leagues, the wind favourable, and AND ROUND THE WORLD. 33 and the fea feemed to be pretty clear of ice, I fent on *77*« 1 J December. board for Captain Furneaux, to make him acquainted there- '--—-» with; and after dinner he returned to his fhip. At one u° ayZ9' o'clock we fleered for an ifland of ice, thinking, if there were any loofe ice round it, to take fome on board, and convert it into frefli water. At four we brought to, clofe under the Ice of the ifland; where we did not find what we wanted, but faw upon it eighty-fix penguins. This piece of ice was about half a mile in circuit, and one hundred feet high and upwards; for we lay for fome minutes with every fail becalmed under it. The fide on which the penguins were, rofe floping from the fea, fo as to admit them to creep up it. It is a received opinion, that penguins never go far from land, and that the fight of them is a furc indication of its vicinity. This opinion may hold good where there are no ice iflands ; but where fuch are, thefe birds, as well as many others, which ufually keep near the fliorcs, finding a roofling place upon thefe iflands, may be brought by them a great diftance from any land. It will, however, be faid, that they muft go on fhore to breed ; that probably the females were there ; and that thefe arc only the males which we faw. Be this as it may, I fhall continue to take notice of thefe birds whenever we fee them, and leave every one to judge for himfclf. We continued our courfe to the weftward, with a gentle gale at E. N. E.; the weather being fometimes tolerably clear, and at other times thick and hazy, with fnow. The thermometer for a few days pall was from 31 to 3O. At nine Wedncf.3<>. o'clock the next morning, being the 30th, we fliot one of the white birds; upon which we lowered a boat into the Vol. I. F water 34 a VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, ecILber water t0 take ^ up; and by that means killed a penguin,: —>-1 which weighed 114 pounds. The white bird was of the Wednef. 30. * peterel tribe ; the bill, which is rather fliorr, is of a colour between black and dark blue; and their legs and feet are blue. I believe them to be the fame fort of birds.that Bouvet mentions to have feen, when he was off Cape Cir-cumcifion. We continued our wcflerly courfe till eight o'clock in the evening, when we fleered N. W. the point on which I reckoned the above-mentioned Cape to bear. At mid-night we fell in with loofe ice, which foon after obliged us to tack, and flretch to the fouthward. At half an hour pafl two o'clock Thurfday 31. in the morning of the 31ft, we flood for it again, thinking to take fome on board; but this was found impracticable. For the wind, which had been at N. E. now veered to S. E r and incrcafing to a frefli gale, brought with it fuch a fea as made it very dangerous for the fhips to remain among the ice. The danger was yet farther increafed, by difcover-ing an immenfe field to the north, extending from N. E. by E. to S. W. by W. farther than the eye could reach. As we were not above two or three miles from this, and furrounded by loofe ice, there was no time to deliberate. We prefendy wore; got our tacks on board; hauled to the South; and foon got clear; but not before we had received feveral hard knocks from the loofe pieces, which were of the larger! fort, andamong which we faw a fcal. In the afternoon the wind increafed in fuch a manner, as to oblige us to hand the top-fails, and flrike top-gallant-yards. At eight o'clock we tacked and flood to the Eafl till midnight; when, being in the latitude of 60° 21' South, longitude 130 30'Eafl, we flood again to the Well. Next \ Next day, towards noon, the gale abated; fo that we could 1773-carry clofe-reefed top-fails. But the weather continued thick v,J!lt-^ and hazy, with fleet and fnow, which froze on the rigging 1 y l" as it fell, and ornamented the whole with icicles j the mercury in the thermometer being generally below the freezing point. This weather continued till near noon the next day; at which time we were in the latitude of 590 12' S*totn Iefs incumbered with ice. But the worfl was, the ice fo >773- Till i January. clogged the rigging, fails and blocks, as to make them ex-ceedingly bad to handle. Our people, however, furmounted Monday 4* thofe difficulties with a fleady perfeverance, and withflood this intenfe cold much better than I expected. We continued to fleer to the E. S. E., with a frefli gale at N. W., attended with fnow and fleet, till the 8th, when Friday ?» we were in the latitude of 6i° n' South, longitude 310 47' Eaft. In the afternoon we parted more ice iflands than we had feen for feveral days. Indeed they were now fo familiar to us, that they were often pafled unnoticed ; but more generally unfeen on account' of the thick weather. At nine o'clock in the evening, wc came to one, which, had a quantity of loofe ice about it. As the wind was moderate, and the weather tolerably fair, we fliortcned fail, and flood on and off,'with a view of taking fome on board on the return of light. But, at four o'clock in the morning, find- Saturday 9, ing ourfelves to leeward of this ice, we bore down to an ifland to leeward of us ; there being about it fome loofe ice, part of which we faw break of]7. There we brought to ; hoifled out three boats; and, in about five or fix hours, took up as much ice as yielded fifteen tons of good frefli water. The pieces wc took up were hard, and folid as a rock; fome of them were fo large, that we were obliged to break them with pick-axes, before they could be taken into the boats. The fait water which adhered to the ice, was fo trifling as not to be tailed, and, after it had lain on deck a fhort time, entirely drained off; and the water which the ice yielded, was perfectly fweet and well-tafled. Part of the ice we broke in pieces, and put into cafks; fome we melted in. 1773* in the coppers, and filled up the cafks with the water j and January. *-«-' fome we kept on deck for prefent ufe. The melting and Sautrday 9. ftow}ng away the ice is a little tedious, and takes up fome time; otherwife this is the moil expeditious way of watering I ever met with. Having got onboard this fupply of water, and the Adventure about two-thirds as much (of which we flood in great need), as we had once broke the ice, I did not doubt of getting more whenever we were in want. I therefore, without hefitation, directed our courfe more to the South, with a gentle gale at N. W. attended, as ufual, with fnow Monday 11. fhowTcrs. In the morning of the 1 ith, being then in the latitude of 620 44/ South, longitude 37° Eafl, the variation of Tuefdayu. the compafs was 240 jo' Weil, and the following morning in the latitude of 640 12' South, longitude 3S0 14' Eaft, by the mean of three compaffes, it was no more than 230 52' Weft. In this fituation we faw fome penguins ; and being near an ifland of ice, from which feveral pieces had broken, we hoiftcd out two boats, and took on board as much as filled all our empty cafks j and the Adventure did the fame. While this was doing, Mr. Forfter fhot an albatrofs, whofc plumage was of a colour between brown and dark grey, the head and upper fide of the wings rather inclining to black, and it had white eye-brows. Wc began to fee thefe birds about the time of our firft falling in with the ice iflands ; and fome had accompanied us ever fince. Thefe, and the dark-brown fort with a yellow bill, were the only albatroflfes that had not now forfaken us. At four o'clock P. M. we hoiftcd in the boats, and made fail to the S. £., with a gentle breeze at S. by W., attended with Blowers of fnow. f , On AND ROUND THE WORLD. 39 On the i«th. at two o'clock A. M. it fell calm. Of this T?73- ° January, we took the opportunity to hoitl out a boat, to try the cur- v-—,-» rent, which we found to fet N. W. near one third of a mile an hour. At the time of trying the current, a Fahrenheit's thermometer was immerged in the fea ioo fathoms below its furface, where it remained twenty minutes. When it came up, the mercury flood at 32 ; which is the freezing point. Some little time after, being expofed to the furface of the fea, it rofe to 334.; and in the open air to 36. The calm continued till five o'clock in the evening, when it was fucceeded by a light breeze from the South and S. E., with which we flaod to the N. E. with all our fails fet. Though the weather continued fair, the fky, as ufual, was clouded. However, at nine o'clock the next morning, it- Thurfda7 '*« was clear j and we were enabled to obferve feveral diftanccs between the fun and moon. The mean refult or which gave 39° 30' 30" Eaft longitude. Mr. Kendal's wTatch, at the fame time, gave'380 27' 45", which is 1° 2' 45" Weft of the obfervations: whereas, on the 3d inftant, it was half a degree Eaft of them. In the evening I found the variation, by the mean?' , of Azimuths taken with Gregory's compafs, to be i ' * ° By the mean of fix Azimuths by one of Dr. Knight's 23 32 o And by another of Dr. Knight's - - - - 28 34 o Our latitude at this time was 630 57', longitude yf 38^" Eaft. The fuccceding morning, the 15th, being then in latitude 630 33' South, the longitude was obferved by the following perfons, viz. Friday 15, Myfelf, Myfelf, being the mean of fix diflances of the ' fun and moon - i' 45" Mr. Wales, ditto - 39 29 45 Ditto - - ditto - 39 56 45 Lieutenant Gierke, ditto - 39 38 0 Mr. Gilbert, ditto - 39 48 45 Mr. Smith, ditto - 39 18 15 Mean - - - - 39 43 12 Mr. Kendal's watch made - - 3« 4i 3° Which is nearly the fame difference as the day before. But Mr. Wales and 1 took each of us fix diflances of the fun and moon, with the telefcopes fixed to our fextants, which brought out the longitude nearly the fame as the watch. The remits were as follows:—-By Mr. Wales 38° 35' 30", and by me 380 36' 45"- It is impoflible for me to fay whether thefe or the former are the nearer! the truth; nor can I aflign any probable reafon for fo great a difagreement. We certainly can ob-ferve with greater accuracy through the telefcope, than with the common fight, when the fhip is fufficiently fleady. The ufe of.the telefcope is found difficult at firft j but a little practice will make it familiar. By the afliflance of the watch, wc fhall be able to difcover the greater! error this method of obferving the longitude at fea is liable to; which, at the grcateft, does not exceed a degree and an half, and in general will be found to be much lefs. Such is the improvement navigation has received by the aftronomers and mathematical inftrument makers of this age; by the former, from the valuable tables they have communicated to the Public, under the direction of the Board of Longitude, and contained in the aftronomical ephemeris; ^nd by the latter, from the great accuracy they obfervc in 6 . making % making inftruments, without which the tables would, in l/73- a great meafure, lofe their efTecl:. The preceding obferva- tiens were made by four diflercnt fextants, of different work- " ay -s< men. Mine was made by Mr, Bird; one of Mr. Wales's by Mr. Dollond; the other, and Mr. Gierke's, by Mr. Ramfden; as alfo Mr. Gilbert's and Smith's, who obferved with the fame in ft ru mem. Five tolerably fine days had now fuccceded one another. This, befides giving us an opportunity to make the preceding obfervations, was very fcrviccable to us on many other accounts, and came at a very feafonable time. For, having on board a good quantity of frefh water, or ice, which was the fame thing, the people were enabled to wafli and dry their cloaths and linen a care that can never be enough attended to in all long voyages. The winds, during this time, blew in gentle gales, and the weather was mild. Yet the mercury in the thermometer never rofc above 36; and was frequently as low as the freezing point. In the afternoon, having but little wind, I brought to under an ifland of ice, and fent a boat to take up fome. In the evening the wind freshened at Eaft, and was attended with fnow ihowers and thick hazy weather, which continued great part of the 16th. As we met with little ice, I Saturday 16. flood to the South, clofe hauled ; and at fix o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of 640 56' South, longitude 39° 3>s' f'aft> 1 found the variation by Gregory's compafs to be 260 41/ Weft. At this time, the motion of the fhip was fo great, that I could by no means obfervc with any of Dr. Knight's compafTes. As the wind remained invariably fixed at Eaft, and E. by S., I continued to ftand to the South; and on the 17th, be- SunJay G tween twcen eleven and twelve o'clock, we crofled the Antarctic Circle in the longitude of 39° 35' Eafl; for at noon wc were by obfervation in the latitude of 66° 36' 30" South. The weather was now become tolerably clear, fo that wc could fee feveral leagues round us; and yet we had only feen one ifland of ice fince the morning. But about four P. M. as we were fleering to the South, we obferved the whole fea in a manner covered with ice, frorn the direction of S. E., round by the South to Well. In this fpacc, thirty-eight ice iflands, great and fmall, were feen, befides loofe ice in abundance, fo that we were obliged to luff for one piece, and bear up for another, and, as we continued to advance to the South, it increafed in fuch a manner, that at | pad fix o'clock, being then in the latitude of 6y° 15' South, we could proceed no farther; the ice being entirely clofed to the South, in the whole extent from Eait to W. S. W., without the leafl appearance of any opening. This immenfe field was compofed of different kinds of ice; fuch as high hills; loofe or broken pieces packed clofe together, and what, I think, Grccnlandmcn call field-ice. A float of this kind of ice lay to the S. E. of lis, of fuch extent that I could fee no end to it, from the mad head. It was fixtecn or eighteen feet high at leafl j and appeared of a pretty equal height and furface. Here, we faw many whales playing about the ice; and, for two days before, had feen feveral flocks of the brown and white pintadoes, which we named Antarctic peterels, becaufe they feem to be natives of that region. They arc, undoubtedly, of the pctcrel tribe ; are, in every refpect, fhaped like the pintadoes, differing only from them in colour. The head and fore-part of the body of thefe, are brown; and the hind-part of the body, tail, and ends of the wings, are white. white. The white petcrcl alfo appeared in greater numbers *773- than before ; fome few dark grey albatroffes; and our con- \_ ftant companion the blue petcrel. But the common pintadoes Sunday i?' had quite difappcared, as well as many other forts, which are common in lower latitudes. CHAP. III. Sequel of the Search for a Southern Continent y between the Meridian of the Cape of Good Hope and New Zealand ; with ait Account of the Separation of the two Shipsy and the Arrival of the Refolution th Dufky Bay. AFTER meeting with this ice, I did not think it was at all prudent to perfevcrc in getting farther to the South ; efpecially as the fummer was already half fpent, and it would have taken up fome time to have got round the ice, even fuppofing it to have been practicable ; which, however, is doubtful. I therefore came to a refolution to proceed directly in fearch of the land lately difcovered by the French. And, as the winds flill continued at E. by S., I was obliged to return to the North, over fome part of the fea I had already made myfelf acquainted with, and, for that reafon, wifhed to have avoided. But this was not to be done; as our courfe, made good, was little better than North. In the night, the wind increafed to a ftrong gale, attended with Monday ,8, fleet and fnow, and obliged us to double-reef our top-fails. About noon the next day, the gale abated ; fo that wc could Tucrjly \fr bear all our reefs out; but the wind ltill remained in its old quarter. In the evening, being in the latitude of 64? 12' South, longitude 400 15' Eaft, a bird called by us in my former G 2 V0Vilge, 1773- January. *-,- Tutffday 19« Wednef. 20. Thurfday 21 voyage, Port Egmont Hen, (on account of the great plenty of them at Port Egmont in Falkland Ifles) came hovering feveral times over the fhip, and then left us in the direction of N. E. They are a fliort thick bird about the fize of a large crow, of a dark brown or chocolate colour, with a whitifh flreak under each wing in the fliape of a half moon. i. have been told that thefe birds are found in great plenty at the Fero Ifles, North of Scotland ; and that they never go far from land. Certain it is, I never before faw them above forty leagues off; but I do not remember ever feeing fewer than two together; whereas, here was but one, which, with the iflands of ice, may have come a good way from land. At nine o'clock, the wind veering to E. N. E., we tacked and flood to the S. S. E.; but, at four in the morning of the 20th, it returned back to its old point, and we refumed our northerly courfe. One of the above birds was feen this morning; probably the fame we faw the night before, as our fituation was not much altered. As the day advanced, the gale increafed, attended with thick hazy weather, fleet and fnow, and at lait obliged us to clofe-reef our top-fails, and flrike top-gallant-yards. But in the evening, the wind abated fo as to admit us to carry whole top-fails and topgallant-yards aloft. Hazy weather, with fnow and fleet, continued. In the afternoon of the 21ft, being in the latitude of 62° 24'South, longitude 42° 19' Eafl, we faw a white albatrofs with black tipped wings, and a pintadoc bird. The wind was now at South and S. W. a frefli gale. With this wc fleered N. E. againfl a very high fea, which did not indicate the vicinity of land in that quarter; and yet it was there wc we were to expect it. The next day, we had intervals of 1773 fair weather; the wind was moderate, and we carried our ftudding fails. In the morning of the 23d, we were in la- Saturday* titude toQ 27' South, longitude 450 33' Eafl. Snow fhowcrs continued, and the weather was fo cold, that the wTater in our water veflels on deck had been frozen for feveral preceding nights. Having clear weather at intervals, I fpread the fhips a-breaft four miles from each other; in order the better to difcover any thing that might lie in our way. We continued to fail in this manner till fix o'clock in the evening, when hazy weather, and fnow fhowcrs, made it neceffary for us to join. We kept our courfe to the N. E., till eight o'clock in the morning of the 25th, when, the wind having veered round Monday a to N. E. by E., by the Wcfl and North, we tacked, and flood to N. W. The wind was frefh; and yet we made but little way againfl a high northerly fea. We now began to fee fome of that fort of peterels fo well known to failors by the name of fheerwaters, latitude 580 10', longitude 500 54/ Eafl. In the afternoon, the wind veered to the Southward of Eafl; and, at eight o'clock in the evening, it increafed to a florm, attended with thick hazy weather, fleet and fnow. During night we went under our fore-fail and main-top-fail clofe-reefed; at day-light the next morning, added to Tuefday* them the fore and mizzen top-fails. At four o'clock it fell calm ; but a prodigious high fea from the N. E., and a complication of the worfl of weather, viz. fnow, fleet, and rain, continued, together with the calm, till nine o'clock in the evening. Then the weather cleared up, and wc got a breeze at 1773- at S. E. by S. With this we fleered N. by E. till eight o'clock v.iZX^ the next morning, being the 27th, when I fpread the fhips Vvednef. z7. fleered N. N. E., all fails fet, having a frefh breeze at S. by W. and clear weather. At noon, we were, by obfervation, in the latitude of 560 28' South; and, about three o'clock in the afternoon, the fun and moon appearing at intervals, their diflances were obferved by the following perfons; and the longitude re-fulting therefrom was By Mr. Wales, (mean of two fcts) - - 500 59' Eafl. Lieutenant Clcrkc - - - - 51 11 Mr. Gilbert . 50 14 Mr. Smith - - - - - 50 50 Mr. Kendal's watch - - - 50 50 At fix o'clock in the evening, being in latitude 56° 9' S. I now made fignal to the Adventure to come under my ftern ; Thurfday 28. and, at eight o'clock the next morning, fent her to look out on my (larboard beam, having at this time a frefli gale at Weft, and pretty clear weather. But this was not of long duration ; for, at two in the afternoon, the fky became cloudy and hazy ; the wind increafed to a frefli gale j blew in fqualls attended with fnow, fleet, and drizzling rain. I now made fignal to the Adventure to come under my ftern, and took another reef in each top-fail. At eight o'clock I hauled up the main-fail, and run all night under the fore-fail, and two top-fails; our courfe being N. N. E. and N. E. by N. with a ftrong gale atN. W. Friday 29. The 29th at noon, we obferved in latitude 52" 29' South, the weather being fair and tolerably clear. But in the afternoon, it again became very thick and hazy with rain; and and the gale increafed in fuch a manner as to oblige us to *773« flrike top-gallant yards, clofc-rcef and hand the top-fails. , >n««rT't We fpent part of the night, which was very dark and dy 2g' flormy, in making a tack to the S. W.; and in the morning of the 30th, flood again to the N. E., wind at N. W. and Saturday 30. North, a very frefli gale ; which fplit feveral of our fmall fails. This day no ice was feen ; probably owing to the thick hazy weather. At eight o'clock in the evening we tacked and flood to the Wettward, under our courfes; but as the fea run high we made our courfe no better than S. S. W. At four o'clock the next morning, the gale had a little Sunday 31. abated; and the wind had backed to W. by S. We again flood to the Northward, under courfes and double-reefed top-fails, having a very high fea from the N. N. W. ; which gave us but little hopes of finding the land we were in fearch of. At noon, we were in the latitude of 500 50' S., longitude 56^ 48' Eaft; and prefently after we faw two iflands of ice. One of thefe we paffed very near, and found that it was breaking, or falling to pieces, by the cracking noifc it made ; which was equal to the report of a four-pounder. There was a good deal of loofe ice about it; and had the weather been favourable, I fhould have brought to, and taken fome up. After paflihg this, we faw no more, till wc returned again to the South. Hazy gloomy weather continued, and the wind remained invariably fixed at N. W., fo that we could make our courfe no better than N. E. by N.; and this courfe we held till four o'clock in the afternoon of the ill of February. Being then February, in the latitude of 4S° 30', and longitude 580 7' Eaft, nearly Monda? in the meridian of the ifland of Mauritius, and where we were were to expeel- to find the land faid to be difcovered by the French, of which at this time we faw not the lead figns, we bore away Eaft. I now made the fignal to the Adventure to keep at the diftance of four miles on my ftarboard beam. At half an hour paft fix, Captain Furneaux made the fignal to fpeak with me; and, upon his coming under my ftern, he informed me that he had jufl feen a large float of fea or rock weed, and about it feveral birds (divers). Thefe were, certainly, figns of the vicinity of land ; but whether it lay to the Eaft or Weft, was not pofTible for us to know. My intention was to have got into this latitude four or five degrees of longitude to the Weft of the meridian we were now in, and then to have carried on my refearches to the Eafl. But the W. and N. W. winds, we had had the five preceding days, prevented me from putting this in execution. The continual high fea we had lately had from the N. E„ N., N. W., and Weft, left me no reafon to believe that land of any extent lay to the Weft. We therefore continued to fleer to the E., only lying to a few hours in the night, and in the morning re fumed our courfe again, four miles North and South from each other ; the hazy weather not permitting us to fpread farther. We patted two or three fmall pieces of rock weed, and faw two or three birds known by the name of egg-birds ; but faw no other figns of land. At noon we obferved, in latitude 480 36' South, longitude 590 35' Faft. As we could only fee a few miles farther to the South, and as it was not impoflible that there might be land not far off in that direction, I gave orders to fleer S 7 E.; and made the fignal for the Adventure to follow, fhe 3 being, AND ROUND THE WORLD. 4g being, by this movement, thrown a-flern. The weather J773« February. continuing hazy till half an hour part fix o'clock in the L—* evening, when it cleared up fo as to enable us to fee about Tucfday *' five leagues round us. Being now in the latitude of 490 13' South, without having the lead figns of land, I wore and flood again to the Eaflward, and foon after fpoke with Captain Furneaux. He told me that he thought the land was to the N. W. of us * as he had, at one time, obferved the fea to be fmooth when the wind blew in that direction. Although this was not conformable to the remarks * made the Adventure's fignal to keep at the diftance of four miles on my ftarboard beam; and continued to fteer E. S. E. This being a fine day, I had all our men's bedding and cloaths fpread on deck to air; and the fhip cleaned and fmoked betwixt decks. At noon I fleered a point more to the South, being then in the latitude of 480 49' South, longitude 6i° 48' Eaft. At fix o'clock in the evening, I called in the Adventure; and, at the fame time, took feveral azimuths, which gave the variation 31° 28' Weft. Thefe obfervations could not be taken with the greateft accuracy, on account of the rolling of the fhip, occafioned by a very high weftcrly fwell. The preceding evening, three Port Egmont hens were feen ; this morning another appeared. In the evening, and feveral times in the night, penguins were heard; and, at Mondays, day-light, in the morning of the 8th, feveral of thefe were feen j and divers of two forts, feemingly fuch as are ufually met with on the coaft of England. This occafioned us to found ; but we found no ground with a line of 210 fathoms. Our Our latitude now was 490 53' South, and longitude G30 39' Eaft. This was at eight o'clock. By this time the wind v. had veered round by the N. E. to E.,.blew a brifk gale, and was attended with hazy weather, which foon after turned to a thick fog; and, at the fame time, the wind fhifted to I continued to keep the wind on the larboard tack, and to fire a gun every hour till noon; when I made the fignal to tack, and tacked accordingly. But, as neither this fignal, nor any of the former, was anfwered by the Adventure, we had but too much reafon to think that a feparation had taken place ; though we were at a lofs to tell how it had been effected. I had directed Captain Furneaux, in cafe he was feparated from me, to cruize three days in the place where he laft faw me. I therefore continued making fliort boards, and firing half-hour guns, till the 9th in the afternoon, Tucfday g: -when, the weather having cleared up, wc could fee feveral leagues round us, and found that the Adventure was not within the limits of our horizon. At this time, wc were about two or three leagues to the eaflward of the fituation wc were in when we laft faw her; and were ftanding to the weftward with a very ftrong gale at N. N. W., accompanied with a great fea from the fame direction. This, together with an incrcafe of wind, obliged us to lie to, till eight o'clock WedaeC 1©. the next morning; during which time we faw nothing of the Adventure, notwithstanding the weather was pretty clear, and we had kept firing guns, and burning falfe fires, all night. I therefore gave over looking for her, made fail, and fleered S. E. with a very frefli gale at W. by N., accompanied with a high fea from the fame direction. N. E. II 2 While '773- February. Wednef. 10. While we were beating about here, we frequently faw penguins and divers, which made us conjecture that land was not far off; but in what direction, it was not pofhble for us to tell. As we advanced to the South, we loft the penguins, and moft of the divers; and, as ufual, met with abundance of albatroiTes, blue peterels, fhecr-waters, Sec. Thurfday ii. The zith at noon, and in the latitude of 510 15' South, longitude 670 2o; Eaft, we again met with penguins and faw an egg bird, which wc alfo look upon to be a fign of the vicinity of land. I continued to fteer to the S. E., with a frefh gale in the N. W. quarter, attended with a long hollow fwell, and frequent mowers of rain, hail, and fnow. Friday 12. The 12th in the morning, being in the latitude of 520 335' S. longitude 6(/ 47' Eaft, the variation was 31° 38' Weft. In the evening, in the latitude of 530 y' South, longitude 70° 50' Saturday 13. Eaft, it was 320 33': and, the next morning, in the latitude of 530 37' South, longitude 7a0 io', it was 33° 8' Weft. Thus far we had continually a great number of penguins about the fhip, which feemed to be different from thofe we had feen near the ice; being fmalier, with redifh bills and brownifli heads. The meeting with fo many of thefe birds, gave us fome hopes of finding land, and occafioned various conjectures about its fituation. The great wcfterly fwell, which ftill continued, made it improbable that land of any confiderable extent lay to the Weft. Nor was it very probable that any lay to the North; as we were only about 160 leagues to the South of Tafman's Track in 1642; and I conjectured that Captain Furneaux would explore this place; which accordingly happened. In the evening we faw a Port Egmont hen, which flew away in the direction of N. E. by E.; and, the next morning, a feal was feen ; but no penguins. Sunday guins. Ia the evening, being in the latitude of 550 49' S., JjjjW longitude 750 52' Eaft, the variation was 340 48' Weft; and, <-,-* in the evening of the 15th, in latitude 570 2' South, longitude Monday IS<* 790 56' Eaft, it was 380 Weft. Five feals were feen this day, and a few penguins ; which occafioned us to found, without finding any bottom, with a line of 150 fathoms. At day-light in the morning of the 16th, we faw an ifland Tucfdty ift. of ice to the northward; for which wc fleered, in order to take fome on board ; but the wind fhifting to that direction, hindred us from putting this in execution. At this time we were in the latitude of 570 8' South, longitude 8o° 59' Eaft, and had two iflands of ice in fight. This morning we faw one penguin, which appeared to be of the fame fort which we had formerly feen near the ice. But wc had now been fo often deceived by thefe birds, that we could no longer look upon them, nor indeed upon any other oceanic birds, which frequent high latitudes, as fure figns of the vicinity of land. The wind continued not long at North, but veered to E. by N. E., and blew a gentle gale, with which we ftood to the fouthward; having frequent fhowcrs of licet and fnow. But, in the night, wc had fair weather, and a clear fcrene Iky ; and, between midnight and three o'clock in the morn- Wed*e£ 17. ing, lights were feen in the heavens, fimilar to thofe in the northern hemifphere, known by the name of Aurora Bore-alis, or Northern Lights ; but I never heard of the Aurora Auftralis being feen before. The ofliccr of the watch obferved, that it fometimes broke out in fpiral rays, and in a circular form; then its light was very ftrong, and its appearance beautiful. He could not perceive it had any particular direction; for it appeared, at various times, in dif- 9 - ferent F(!bruu* ferent parts of the heavens, and difFufed its light through-»-1—1> out the whole atmofphere. Wednef. 17. r At nine in the morning, we bore down to an ifland of ice which we reached by noon. It was full half a mile in circuit, and two hundred feet high at leafl j though very little loofe ice about it. But while we were confidering whether or no we fhould hoifl out our boats to take fome up, a great quantity broke from the ifland. Upon this we hoifled out our boats and went to work to get fome on board. The pieces of ice, both great and fmall, which broke from the iiland, I obferved, drifted fafl to the weftward ; that is, they left the ifland in that direction, and were, in a few hours, fpread over a large fpace of fea. This, I have no doubt, was caufed by a current fetting in that direction. For the wind could have but little effect upon the ice; efpe-daily as there was a large hollow fwell from the Weft. This circumftance greatly retarded our taking up ice. We, however, made a fhift to get on board about nine or ten tons before eight o'clock, when we hoifled in the boats and made fail to the Eaft, inclining to the South, with a frefli gale at South ; which, foon after, veered to S. S. W. and S. W., with fair but cloudy weather. This courfe brought us among many ice illcs ; fo that it was neceffary to proceed with great caution. In the night the mercury in the thermometer fell two degrees below the freezing point; and the water in the fcuttle cafks on deck was frozen. As I have not taken notice of the thermometer of late, I mail now ob-ferve that, as we advanced to the North, the mercury gradually rofe to 45, and fell again, as we advanced to the South, to what is above mentioned; nor did it rife, in the middle of the day, to above 34 or 35. In In the morning of the iSth, being in the latitude of 570 j1"73' 54' South, longitude 830 14' Eaft, the variation was 390 33' *—■ ™— Weft. In the evening, in latitude 580 11 South, longitude >l" u''y 18 840 2,5' Eaft, it was only 370 8' Weft ; which induced me to believe it was decreafing. But, in the evening of the 20th, Saturday ;o. in the latitude of 580 47' South, longitude 900 56' Eaft, I took nine azimuths, with Dr. Knight's compafs, which gave the variation 400 7'; and nine others, with Gregory's, which gave 400 15' Weft. - This day, at noon, being nearly in the latitude and longitude juft mentioned, we thought we faw land to the S. W. The appearance was fo ftrong that we doubted not it was there in reality, and tacked to work up to it accordingly ; having a light breeze at South, and clear weather. We were, however, foon undeceived, by finding that it was only clouds j which, in the evening, entirely difappeared* and left us a clear horizon, fo that we could fee a conftder-abl way round us ; in which fpace nothing was to be feen but ice iflands. In the night, the Aurora Auftralis made a very brilliant and luminous appearance. It was feen firft in the Eaft, a little above the horizon ; and, in a fhort time, fprcad over the whole heavens. The 21 ft, in the morning, having little wind and a fmooth Sunday an fea, two favourable circumftances for taking up ice, I fleered for the largeft ice ifland before us, which we reached by noon. At this time, we were in the latitude of 590 S. longitude 920 30' Eaft; having, about two hours before, feen three or four penguins. Finding here a good quantity of loofe ice, I ordered two boats out, and fent them to take fome on board. While this was doing, the ifland, which was 7 ,773- was not lcfs than half a mile in circuit, and three or four February. '-«-' hundred feet high above the furface of the fea, turned jn ayz ' nearly bottom up. Its height, by this circumflancc, was neither increafed nor diminished apparently. As foon as we had got on board as much ice as we could difpofe of, we hoifled in the boats, and made fail to the S. E., with a gentle breeze at N. by E., attended with fhowers of fnow, and dark gloomy weather. At this time, wTe had but few ice iflands Monday 22. in fight; but, the next day, feldom lcfs than twenty or thirty were feen at once. The wind gradually veered to the Eafl; and, at laft, fixing at E. by S., blew a frefh gale. With this we flood to the Tuefday^j. South, till eight o'clock in the evening of the 23d; at which time wc were in the latitude of 6i° 52' S ^uth, longitude 950 2' Eafl. Wc now tacked, ard fpent the night, which was exceedingly flormy, thick, and hazy, with fleet and fnow, in making fhort boards. Surrounded on every fide with danger, it was natural for us to wifh for day-light. This, wdien it came, ferved only to increafe our appre-henfions, by exhibiting to our view, thofe huge mountains of ice, which, in the night, wc had pafTcd without feeing. Thefe unfavourable circumflances, together with dark nights, at this advanced fcafon of the year, quite dif-couraged me from putting in execution a refolution I had taken of crofling the Antarctic circle once more. Accordingly, Wcd-ef. 24. at four o'clock in the morning, we flood to the North, with a very hard gale at E. S. E-, accompanied with fnow and fleet, and a very high fea from the fame point, which made great dcflruction among the ice iflands. This circumflance, far from being of any advantage to us, greatly increafed the number of pieces wc had to avoid. The large pieces which which break from the ice iflands, are much more danger- Wl* *-* February. ous than the iflands themfelves. The latter are fo high out u^-v-—' of water, that we can generally fee them, unlefs the wea- 4* ther be very thick and dark, before we are very near them. Whereas the others cannot be feen, in the night, till they are under the fhip's bows. Thefe dangers were, however, now become fo familiar to us, that the apprehcnfions they caufed were never of long duration; and were, in fome meafurc, compenfated both by the feafonable fupplics of frefh water thefe ice iflands afforded us, (without which we mud have been greatly diftrefted) and alfo, by their very romantic appearance, greatly heightened by the foaming and dafliing of the waves into the curious holes and caverns which are formed in many of them ; the whole exhibiting a view, which at once fdlcd the mind with admiration and horror, and can only be defcribed by the hand of an able painter. Towards the evening, the gale abated ; and in the night we had two or three hours calm. This was fucceeded by a light breeze at Weft; with which we fleered Eaft, under all the fail we could fet, meeting with many ice iflands. This night we faw a Port Egmont hen; and next morn- Thurfdtyij, ing, being the 25th, another. Wc had lately feen but few birds; and thofe were albatroffes, fheerwatcis, and blue peterels. It is remarkable, that we did not fee one of either the white, or Antarctic peterels, fince we came laft amongft the ice. Notwithstanding the wind kept at Weft and N. W. all day, we had a very high fea from the Eaft; by which wc concluded that no land could be near, in that direction. In the evening, being in the latitude 6o° 51', longitude 95° 41' Eaft, the variation was 430 6' Weft; and the next morning, be- r , 1J 7 P* Friday zSt o 1773* ing the 26th. having advanced about a degree and a half more Fcbmary. 0 » , *—-v-—i to the Eafl, it was ai° $o' ; both being determined by feveral F;iday 26, , azimuths. We had fair weather all the afternoon; but the wind was unfettled, veering round by the North to the Eaft. With this, we flood to the S. E. and E., till three o'clock in the afternoon; when, being in the latitude of 6i° 21' South, longitude 970 7', we tacked and flood to the northward and eaflward as the wind kept veering to the South. This, in the evening, increafed to a ftrong gale, blew in fqualls, attended with fnow and fleet, and thick hazy weather, which foon brought us under our clofe-recfed top-fails. Saturday 27. Between eight in the morning of the 26th, and noon the next day, we fell in among feveral iflands of ice; from whence fuch vail quantities had broken as to cover the fea* all round us, and render failing rather dangerous. However, by noon, we were clear of it all. In the evening the wind abated, and veered to S. W.; but the weather did not Sunday 28. clear up till the next morning; when we were able to carry all our fails, and met with but very few iflands of ice to impede us. Probably the late gale had detlroyed a great number of them. i>uch a very large hollow fea had continued to accompany the wind as it veered from Eafl to S. W., that I was certain no land of confiderable extent could lie within 100 or 150 leagues of our fituation between thefe two points. » The mean height of the thermometer at noon, for fome days pad was at about 35; which is fomething higher than it ufually was in the fame latitude about a month or five weeks before, confequently the air was fomething warmer. While the weather was really ivarm> the gales were not only 4 flronger, ftronger, but more frequent; with almoft continual, mifty, J773- " February, dirty, wet weather. The very animals we had on board felt <-1-' its effects. A fow having in the morning farrowed nine Simday 28' pigs, every one of them was killed by the cold before four o'clock in the afternoon, notwithftanding all the care we could take of them. From the fame caufe, myfelf as wcU as feveral of my people, had fingers and toes chilblained. Such is the fummer weather wc enjoyed. The wind continued unfettled, veering from the South t° the Weft, and blew a frefh gale till the evening. Then it fell little wind; and, foon after, a breeze fprung up at North; which quickly veered to N. E. and N. E. by E., at* tended with a thick fog, fnow, fleet, and rain. With this wind and weather, we kept on to the S. E., till four o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, being the ift of March* March, when it fell calm; which continued for near twenty-four Moriday'* hours. We were now in the latitude of Go0 36' South, longitude 107° 54'5 and had a prodigious high fwell from the S. W.; and, at the fame time, another from the South or S. S. E. The dafhing of the one wave againft the other, made the fhip both roll and pitch exceedingly; but, at length, the N. W. fwell prevailed. The calm continued till noon the next day, when it was fucceeded by a gentle TuefJay 2. breeze from S. E.; which afterwards increafed and veered to S. W. With this we fleered N. E. by E. and E. by N. under all the fail we could fet. In the afternoon of the jd, being in latitude 6o° 13', longi- Wednef. 3. tude 1 io° 18', the variation was 390 4' Weft. But the obfervations by which this was determined, were none of the beft ; being obliged to make ufe of fuch as wc could get, during the very few and fhort intervals when the fun ap- I 2 peared. pearcd. A few penguins were feen this day, but not fo many iflands of ice as ufual. The weather was alfo milder; though very changeable; thermometer from 36 to 38. We continued to have a N. W. fwell, although the wind was unfettled, veering to N. E. by the Weft and North, attended with hazy fleet, and drizzling rain. Wc profecuted our courfe to the Eaft, inclining to the South, till three o'clock in the afternoon of the 4th, when (being in the latitude of 6o° 37', longitude 1130 24') the wind ftiift-ing at once to S. W. and S. W. by S , I gave orders to fleer E. by N. 4.. N. But in the night we (leered E. 4 s., in order to have the wind, which was at S. S. W., more upon the beam; the better to enable us to ftand back, in cafe we fell in with any danger in the dark. For we had not fo much time to fparc, to allow us to lie to. In the morning of the 5th, we fleered E. by N., under all the fail we could let, palling one ice ifland and many fmall pieces, and at nine o'clock the wind, which of late had not remained long upon any one point, fhiftcd all at once to Eaft, and blew a gentle gale. With this we flood to the North ; at which time wc were in the latitude of 6o° 44' South, and longitude 1160 50' Eaft. The latitude was determined by the meridian altitude of the fun, which appeared, now and then, for a few minutes till three in the afternoon. Indeed the fky was, in general, fo cloudy, and the weather fo thick and hazy, that we had very little benefit of fun or moon; very feldom feeing the face of either the one or the other. And yet, even under thefe circum-ftanccs, the weather, for fome days paft, could not be called very cold. It, however, had not the lead prctenfion to be called fummer weather according to my ideas of fummer in AND ROUND THE WORLD. Gi in the northern hemifphere, as far as 6o° of latitude; which iffi* 1 March. is nearly as far North as I have been. <- Friday 5. In the evening we had three iflands of ice in fight, all of them large, cfpecially one, which was larger than any we had yet feen. The fide oppofed to us feemcd to be a mile in extent; if fo, it could not be lcfs than three in circuit. As wc palled it in the night, a continual cracking was heard, occafioned, no doubt, by pieces breaking from it. For, in the morning of the 6th, the fea, for fome diftance round it, Saturday 6. was covered with large and fmall pieces; and the ifland itfclf did not appear fo large as it had done the evening before. It could notbe lcfs than ioofcct high ; yet, fuch was the impetuous force and height of the waves which were broken again ft it, by meeting with fuch a fudden refinance, that they rofe confidcrably higher. In the evening wc were in the latitude of %jP 58' South, longitude n8J 39' Eaft. The 7th, the wind was variable in the N. E. and S. E. quarters, at- Sunday> tended with fnow and fleet till the evening. Then the weather became fair, the fky cleared up, and the night was remarkably pleafant, as well as the morning of the next day; which, for the brightnefs of the fky, and fercnity and MonJay g' mildncfs of the weather, gave place to none we had feen fmcc we left the Cape of Good Hope. It was fuch as is little known in this fea; and, to make it ft ill more agreeable we had not one illand of ice in fight. The mercury in the thermometer rofe to 40. Mr. Wales and the Mafter made fome obfervations of the moon and ftars, which fatisficd us that, when our latitude was 590 44', our longitude was 121° 9'. At three o'clock in the afternoon, the calm was fuc-ceeded by a breeze at S. E. The fky, at the fame time, was fuddenly obfeured, and feemed to prefage an approaching ftormu 6% A VOYAGE TOWARDS TME SOUTH POLE, Wj- florm, which accordingly happened. For, in the evening, \_.---Lj the wind fliifted to South, blew in fqualls, attended with Mondays. £ect rain? ancj a prodigious high fea. Having nothing to take care of but ourfelves, we kept two or three points from the wind, and run at a good rate to the E. N. E. under our two courfes, and rlofe-rcefed top-fails. Wednef. 10. The gale continued till the evening of the ioth. Then it abated; the wind (hifted to the weftward; and wc had fair weather, and but little wind, during the night, attended Thurfday u. with a fharp froft. The next morning, being in the latitude of 5;0 56', longitude 130°, the wind fhifted to N. E., and blew a freih gale, with which we flood S. E., having frequent mowers of fnow and fleet, and a long hollow fwell from S. S. E. and S. E. by S. This fwell did not go down till two days after the wind which raifed it had not only ceafed to blow, but had fhifted, and blown frefli at oppofite points, good part of the time. Whoever attentively con-fiders this, muft conclude, that there can be no land to the South, but what muft be at a great diftance. Notwithfiancling fo little was to be expected in that quarter, we continued to ftand to the South till three o'clock in Friday 12. me morning of the 12th, when we were flopped by a calm ; being then in the latitude of 580 56' South, longitude 131° 26' Eaft. After a few hours calm, a breeze fprung up at Weft, with which we fleered Eaft. The S. S. E. fwell having gone down, was fucceeded by another from N. W. by W. The weather continued mild all this day, and the mercury rofe to 39t. In the evening it fell calm, and continued fo Saturday 13. till three o'clock in the morning of the 13th, when we got the wind at Eaft and S. E., a frefh breeze, attended with fnow and fleet. In the afternoon it became fair, and the wind wind veered to South and S. S. W. In the evening, being *773- .... _ March. then in the latitude of 580 59', longitude 1340, the weather 1---1 was fo clear in the horizon, that we could fee many leagues Saturday '3' round us. We had but little wind during the night, fome fhowers of fnow, and a very fharp frofl. As the day broke, Sunday 14. the wind freshened at S. E. and S. S. EI; and foon after, the Iky cleared up, and the weather became clear and ferene; bit the air continued cold, and the mercury in the thermometer rofe only one degree above the freezing point. The clear weather gave Mr. Wales an opportunity to get fome obfervations of the fun and moon. Their remits reduced to noon, when the latitude was 580 22' South, gave us 1360 22' Eafl longitude. Mr. Kendal's watch, at the fame time, gave 134° 42'; and that of Mr. Arnold, the fame. This was the firft, and only time, they pointed out the fame longitude, fince we left England. The greater! difference, however, between them, fince we left the Cape, had not much exceeded twro degrees. The moderate, and I might almofl fay, pleafant weather, we had, at times, for the lad two or three days, made me wifh I had been a few degrees of latitude farther South ; and even tempted me to incline our courfe that way. But we ioon had weather which convinced us that we were full far enough; and that the time was approaching, when thefe leas were not Eo be navigated without enduring intenfe cold •, which, by the bye, wc were pretty well ufed to. In the afternoon, the ferenity of the iky was prefently ob-Luicdi the wind veered round by the S. W. to Weft, and blew in hard fqualls, attended with thick and heavy fhowers of hail and fnow, which continually covered our decks,* fails, and rigging, till five o'clock in the evening of the 15th. »773* March. Monday 15. Tucfday 16. Wcdnef. 16. 15th. At this time, the wind abated and fhifted to S. E.; the fky cleared up; and the evening was fo ferene and clear, that we could fee many leagues round us; the horizon being the only boundary to our fight. We were now in the latitude of 590 17' South, longitude 1400 12' Eaft, and had fuch a large hollow fwell from W. S. W., as affurcd us that we had left no land behind us in that direction. I was alfo well allured that no land lay to the South on this fide 6o° of latitude. We had a fmart froft during the night, which was curioufty illuminated with the fouthern lights. At ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th, (which was as foon as the fun appeared) in the latitude of 580 51' South, our longitude was 143° 10' Eaft. This good weather was, as ufual, of fhort duration. In the afternoon of this day, we had again thick fnow fhowcrs; but, at intervals, it was tolerably clear j and, in the evening, being in the latitude of 58° 58' South, longitude 1440 37' Eaft, I found the variation by feveral azimuths, to be 31' Eaft. I was not a little plcafcd with being able to determine, with fo much prccifion, this point of the line, in which the com-pafs has no variation. For I look upon half a degree as next to nothing; fo that the interferon of the latitude and longitude juft mentioned, may be reckoned the point, without any fenfible error. At any rate, the line can only pafs a very fmall matter Weft of it. I continued to fteer to the Eaft, inclining to the South, with a frefh gale at S. W.f till five o'clock the next morning, when, being in the latitude of 59° 7' S. longitude 1460 53' Eaft, I bore away N. E., and, at noon, North, having come to a refolution to quit the high fouthern latitudes, and to 8 proceed proceed to New Zealand, to look for the Adventure, and to "773 refrefh my people. I had alfo fome thoughts, and even a <-»*. defire, to vifit the Eafl coafl of Van Dicmen's Land, in order to fatisfy myfelf if it joined the coaft of New South Wales. In the night of the i ;th, the wind fhifted to N. W,, and blew in fqualls, attended with thick hazy weather and rain. This continued all the 18th, in the evening of which day, being Thurfday in the latitude of 560 15' South, longitude 1500, the fky cleared up, and we found the variation by feveral azimuths to be 13° 30' Eaft. Soon after, we hauled up, with the log, a piece of rock weed, which was in a ftate of decay, and covered with barnacles. In the night the fouthern lights were very bright. The next morning, we faw a feal; and towards noon, Friday i9 fome penguins, and more rock weed, being at this time in the latitude of 55° 1', longitude 1520 1' Eaft. In the latitude of 540 4', we alfo faw a Port Egmont hen, and fome weed. Navigators have generally looked upon all thefe to be certain figns of the vicinity of land ; I cannot, however, fupport this opinion. At this time we knew of no land, nor is it even probable that there is any, nearer than New Holland or Van Diemen's Land, from which we were diftant 260 leagues. Wc had, at the fame time, feveral porpufes playing about us; into one of which Mr. Cooper ftruck a harpoon ; but, as the fhip was running feven knots, it broke its hold, after towing it fome minutes, and before wc could deaden the fhip's way. As the wind, which continued between the North and the Weft, would not permit me to touch at Van Dicmen's Land, I fhaped my courfe to New Zealand ; and, being under no apprehenfions of meeting with any danger, 1 was not back- K. ward 1773. ward in carrying fail, as well by night as day, having the: March. c " v~ -j advantage of a very ftrong gale, which was attended with hazy rainy weather, and a very large fwell from,the Weil, and W. S. W. We continued to meet with, now and then,, a feal, Port Egmont hens, and fea weed. Monday 22. On the morning of the 22d, the wind fhifted to South, and; brought with it fair weather. At noon, wc found ourfelves. in the latitude of 490 55', longitude 159° 28', having a very large fwell out of the S. W. For the three days pail the mercury in the thermometer had rifen to 46, and the weather was quite mild. Seven or eight degrees of latitude had made a furprifmg difference in the temperature of the aio which we felt with an agreeable fatisfaetion. Wc continued to advance to the N. E. at a good rate, having a brifk gale between the South and Eafl:; meeting; with fcals, Fort Egmont hens, egg birds, fea weed, 8cc. and having conflantly a very large fwell from the S. W. At ten Thurfday 25. o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the land of NewZealand was feen from the mad head ; and, at noon, from the. deck ; extending from N. E. by E. to Eafl, diftant ten leagues. As I intended to put into Dufky Bay, or any other port I could find, on the fouthern part of Tavai Poenammoo, we fleered in for the land, under all the fail we could carry, having the advantage of a frefli gale at Weft, and tolerably clear weather. This laft was not of long duration; for, at half an hour after four o'clock, the land, which was not above four miles diftant, was in a manner wholly obfeured in a. thick haze. At this time, we were before the entrance of a bay, which I had miftaken for Dufky Bay, being deceived by fome iflands that lay in the mouth of it. Fearing Fearing to run, in thick weather, into a place to which wc were all ftrangers, and feeing fome breakers and broken ground a-heacl, I tacked in twenty-five fathom water, and flood out to fea with the wind at N. W. This bay lies on the S. E. fide of Cape Weft, and may be known by a white cliff on one of the ifles which lies in the entrance of the bay. This part of the coaft I did not fee, but at a great diftance, in my former voyage; and we now faw it under fo many difadvantageous circumftances, that the lefs I fay about it, the fewer miftakes 1 fhall make. We flood out to fea, under clofe-reefed top-fails and courfes, till eleven o'clock at night; when we wore and flood to the northward, having a very high and irregular fea. At five o'clock next morning, the gale abated, and we bore up for the land ; at eight o'clock, the Weft Cape bore E. by N. y N., for which wc fleered, and entered Dufky Bay about noon. In the entrance of it, we found 44 fathoms water, a fandy bottom, the Weft Cape bearing S. S. E., and Five Fingers l'oint, or the North point of the bay, North. Here we had a great fwell rolling in from the S. W. The depth of water decreaf'cd to 40 fathoms ; afterwards we had no ground with 60. We were, however, too far advanced to return ; and therefore flood on, not doubting but that we fhould find anchorage. For in this bay we were all ftrangers; in my former voyage, having done no more than difcover, and name it. After running about two leagues up the bay, and palling feveral of the iiles which lay in it, I brought to, and hoiftcd out two boats; one of which I fent away with an officer round a point on the larboard hand, to look for anchorage. This he found, and fignified the fame by fignal. We then followed with the fhip, and anchored in 50 fathoms water, K 2 fo 1773- fo near the more as to reach it with an hawfer. This was March. r ^—v—i on Friday the 26th of March, at three in the afternoon, after having been 117 days at fea ; in which time wc had failed 3660 leagues, without having once fight of land. After fuch a long continuance at fea, in a high fouthern latitude, it is but reafonable to think that many of my people muft be ill of the fcurvy. The contrary, however, happened. Mention hath already been made of fweet wort being given to fuch as were fcorbutic. This had fo far the defired effecT:, that we had only one man on board that could be called very ill of this difeafe ; occafioned, chiefly, by a bad habit of body, and a complication of other diforders. We did not attribute the general good ftate of health in the crew, wholly to the fwcet wort, but to the frequent airing and fweetening the fhip by fires, '■ //><■ Strand', t.tmSon D0^D -O faw the whole family. It confided of the man, his two !773- J 1 April. wives (as we fuppofcd), the young woman before men- '——j Wed qc f i 7 • tioned, a boy about fourteen years old, and three fmall children, the younged of which was at the bread. They were all well-looking, except one woman, who had a large wen i on her upper lip, which made her look difagrceable; and £he feemed, on that account, to be in a great meafure neglected by the man. They conducted us to their habitation, which was but a little way within the fkirts of the wood, and confided of two mean huts made of the bark of trees. Their canoe, which was a fmall double one, jud large enough to tranfport the whole family from place to place, lay in a fmall Cisek near the huts. During our flay, Mr. Hodges made drawings of moil of them ; this occafioned them to give him the name of Toe-toe, which word, we fuppofcd, fignifies marking or painting. When we took leavcj the chief prefented me with a piece of cloth or garment of their own manufacturing, and fome other trifles. 1 at firft thought it was meant as a return for the prefents I had made him; but he foon undeceived me, by exprefling a defire for one of our boat cloaks. I took the hint, and ordered one to be made for him of red baize, as foon as I got aboard; where rainy weather detained me the following day. The 9th, being fair weather, we paid the natives another Friday 9. vifit, and made known our approach by hallooing to them; but they neither anfwered us, nor met us at the more as lifuai. The reafon of this we foon faw; for we found them at their habitations, all dreffed and drefling, in their very befl, with their hair combed and oiled, tied up upon the crowns of their heads, and duck with white feathers. Some L 2 wore wore a fillet of feathers round their heads ; and all of them had bunches of white feathers fluck in their ears: thus drcfTed, and all Handing, they received us with great cour-tefy. I prefented the chief with the cloak I had got made for him, witli which he fecmed fo well pleafcd, that he took his Pattapattou from his girdle, and gave it me. After a fhort flay, we took leave; and having fpent the remainder of the day in continuing my furvey of the bay, with the night returned on board. Very heavy rains falling on the two following days, no work was done; but the 12th proved clear and ferene, and afforded us an opportunity to dry our fails and linen; two things very much wanted; not having had fair weather enough for this purpofe fmce we put into this bay. Mr. Forfler and his party alfo profited by the day in botanizing. About ten o'clock the family of the natives paid us a vifit. Seeing that they approached the fhip with great caution, I met them in a boat, which I quitted when I got to them* and went into their canoe. Yet, after all, I could not prevail on them to put along-fule the fhip, and at laft was obliged to leave them to follow their own inclination. At length they put afliorc in a little creek hard by us; and, afterwards, came and fat down on the fhore abrcaflof the fhip, near enough to fpeak with us. I now caufed the bagpipes and fife to play, and the drum to beat. The two firft they did not regard; but the latter caufed fome little attention in them; nothing, however, could induce them to come on board. But they entered, with great familiarity, into conversion (little underftood) with fuch of the officers and feamen as went to them, paying much greater regard to fome than to others; and thefe wc had reafon to believe 6 they they took for women. To one man in particular, the *773- c April. young woman mewed an extraordinary fondnefs until fhe 1-*—-j difcovered his fex, after which flue would not fuffcr him to Monday ,z' come near her. Whether it was that fhe before took him for one of her own fex; or that the man, in order to discover himfelf, had taken fome liberties with her which fhe thus refented, I know not. In the afternoon, I took Mr. Hodges to a large cafcade, which falls from an high mountain on the South fide of the bay, about a league above the place where we lay. He took a drawing of it on paper, and afterwards painted it in oil colours; which exhibits, at once, a better defcrip-tion of it than any I can give. Huge heaps of flones lay at the foot of this cafcade, which had been broken off and brought by the ftrcam from the adjacent mountains. Thefe flones were of different forts; none, however, according to Mr. Forflers opinion (whoI believe to be a judge), contains either minerals or metals. Ncvcrthelefs I brought away fpecimens of every fort, as the whole country, that is, the rocky part of ir, feemed to confiil of thofe flones and no other. This cafcade is at the Eafl point of a cove, lying in S. W. two miles, which I named Cafcade Cove, in it is good anchorage and other neceilarics. At the entrance, lies an ifland, on each fide of which is a paflage; that on the Eafl fide is much the widcfl. A little above the ifle, and near the S. E. fhore, are two rocks which arc covered at high water. It was in this cove we firft faw the natives. When I returned aboard in the evening I found our -friends the natives had taken up their quarters about 100 yards from our watering place; a very great mark of the confidence they placed in us. This evening, a mooting party party of the officers went over to the North fide of the bay, having with them the fmall cutter to convey them from place to place. Next morning, accompanied by Mr. Forfler, I went in the pinnace to furvey the ifles and rocks which lie in the mouth of the bay. I began firfl with thofe which lie on the S. E. fide of Anchor Ifle. I found here a very fnug cove fhel-tcrcd from all winds, which wc called Luncheon Cove, be-caufe here we dined on cray-filh, on the fide of a pleafant brook, fhaded by the trees from both wind and fun. After dinner we proceeded, by rowing, out to the outermofl ifles, where we faw many fcals, fourteen of which we killed and brought away with us; and might have got many more, would the furf have permitted us to land, with fafety, on all the rocks. The next morning, I went out again to continue the furvey, accompanied by Mr. Forfler. I intended to have landed again on the Seal Ifles; but there ran fuch a high fea that I could not come near them. With fome difficulty we rowed out to fea, and round the S. W. point of Anchor Ifle. It happened very fortunately that chance directed me to take this courfe ; in which we found the fportfmcn's boat adrift, and laid hold of her the very moment fhe would have been daflied againfl the rocks. I was not long at a lofs to guefs how fhe came there, nor was I under any apprehenfions for the gentlemen that had been in her; and, after refrefhing ourfelves with fuch as we had to eat and drink, and fecuring the boat in a fmall creek, we proceeded to the place where we fuppofed them to be. This wc reached about feven or eight o'clock in the evening, and found them upon a fmall ifle in Goofe Cove, where, as it was low water, we could not come with our boat until the return of the tide. As this did not happen till three o'clock AND ROUND THE WORLD. 79 o'clock in the morning, we landed on a naked beach, not 1773* i r • April, knowing where to find a better place, and, after fome time, *--,~—» having got a fire and broiled fome nfh, we made a hearty Tudday flipper, having for fauce a good appetite. This done, wc lay down to flcep, having a flony beach for a bed, and the canopy of heaven for a covering. At length the tide permitted us to take off the fportfmen ; and with them we embarked, and proceeded for the place where we had left their boat, which we foon reached, having a frefh breeze of wind in our favour attended with rain. When we came to the creek which was on the N. W. fide of Anchor lile, we found there an immenfe number of blue peterels, fome on the wing, others in the woods in holes in the ground, under the roots of trees, and in the crevices of rocks, where there was no-getting them, and where we fuppofed their young were depofited. As not one was to be feen in the day, the old ones were probably, at that time, out at fea fearching for food, which in the evening they bring to their young. The noifc they made was like the croaking of many frogs. They were, I believe, of the broad bill kind, which are not fo commonly feen at fea as the others. Here, however, they are in great numbers; and, flying much about in the night, fome of our gentlemen at full took them for batts. After refloring the fportfmen to their boat, we all proceeded for the fhip, which we reached by feven o'clock in the morn- Wcdncf. i*. ing, not a little fatigued with our expedition. I now learned that our friends the natives returned to their habitation at night; probably forefeeing that rain was at hand; which fort of weather continued the whole of this day. On the morning of the 15th, the weather having cleared TWday up and become fair, I fet out with two boats to continue the 7 furvey furvey of the N. W. fide of the bay, accompanied by the two Mr. Forflers and feveral of the officers, whom I detached in one boat to Goofe Cove, where we intended to lodge the night, while I proceeded in the other, examining the harbours and iiles which lay in my way. In the doing of this, I picked up about a fcore of wild fowl, and caught fifh fufficient to fervc the whole party; and, reaching the place of rendezvous a little before dark, I found all the gentlemen out duck-f hooting. They, however, foon returned, not overloaded with game. By this time, the cooks had done their parts, in which little art was required; and after a hearty repafl, on what the day had produced, we lay down to reft} but took care to rife early, the next morning, in order to have the other bout among the ducks, before we left the cove. ♦ Accordingly, at day light, we prepared for the attack. Thofe who had reconnoitred the place before, chofe their Rations accordingly ; whihl myfelf and another remained in the boat, and rowed to the head of the cove to flart the game ; which wc did fo effectually, that, out of fome fcores of ducks, we only detained one to ourfelves, fending all the refl down to thofe flationed below. After this, I landed at the head of the cove and walked crofs the narrow illhmus that disjoins it from the fea, or rather from another cove which runs in from the fea about one mile, and lies open to the North winds. It, however, had all the appearance of a good harbour and fafe anchorage. At the head is a fine fandy beach, where I found an immenfe number of wood hens, and brought away ten couple of them, which rccompenfed me for the trouble of crofling the ifthmus, through the wet woods, up to the middle in water. About nine nine o'clock, we all got collected together, when the fuc- J773. ccfs of every one was known ; which was hy no means an-fwerable to our expectations. The morning, indeed, was indayI°" very unfavourable for fhooting, being rainy the moil of the time we were out. After breakfafl, we fet out on our return to the fhip, which we reached by feven o'clock in the evening; with about fevcn dozen of wild fowl, and two feals ; the mofl of them fliot while I was rowing about, exploring the harbours and coves which I found in my way; every place affording fomething ; cfpecially to us* to whom nothing came amifs. It rained all the 17th; but the 18th bringing fair and clear Saturday tj. . Sunday 18. weather, in the evening, our friends the natives before mentioned paid us another vifit; and, the next morning, the chief Monday i9< and his daughter were induced to come on board, while the others went out in the canoe fiihing. Before they came on board I fhewed them our goats and fheep that were on more; which they viewed, for a moment, with a kind of flupid infenfibility. After this, I conducted them to the brow ; but before the chief fet his foot upon it to come into the fhip, he took a fmall green branch in his hand, with which he flruck the fhip's fide feveral times, repeating a fpeech or prayer. When this was over, he threw the branch into the main chains, and came on board. This cuflom and manner of making peace, as it were, is prac-tifed by all the nations in the South Seas that I have feen. I took them both dowm into the cabin, where we were to breakfafl:. They fat at table with us, but would not tafle any of our victuals. The chief wanted to know where we flept, and indeed to pry into every corner of the cabin, every part of which he viewed with fome furprife. But M it 1773- it was not pofiible to fix his attention to any one tiling a ,-rI*j fingle moment. The works of art appeared to him in the Mon ay 19. famc \ig\n as th0fe of nature, and were as far removed beyond his comprehenfion. What feemed to flrike them moil was the number and flrength of our decks, and other parts of the fhip. The chief, before he came aboard, prefented me with a piece of cloth and a green talk hatchet; to Mr. Forfler he alfo gave a piece of cloth; and the girl gave another to Mr. Hodges. This cuflom of making pre-fents, before they receive any, is common with the natives of the South Sea ifles ; but I never faw it practifed in New Zealand before. Of all the various articles I gave my guefl, hatchets and fpike-nails were the mofl valuable in his eyes. Thefe he never would fuffcr to go out of his hands after he had once laid hold of them; whereas many other articles he would lay carelefsly down any where, and at lad leave them behind him. As foon as I could-get quit of them, they were conducted into the gun-room, where I left them, and fet out with two boats to examine the head of the bay; myfelf in one, accompanied by Mr. Forfler and Mr. Hodges; and Lieutenant Cooper in the other. Wc proceeded up the South fide ; and without meeting with any thing remarkable, got to the head of the bay by fun-fet; where we took up our lodging for the night, at the firft place we could land upon ; for the flats hindered us from getting quite to the head. Tucfday 20. At day-light in the morning, I took two men in the fmall boat, and, with Mr. Forfler, went to take a view of the flat land at the head of the bay, near to where we fpent the night. Wc landed on one fide, and ordered the boat to meet us on the other fide; but had not been long on fhore AND ROUND THE WORLD. 83 more before we faw fome ducks, which,, by their creeping ,773- 1 1 -ii 1 April. through the bufhes, we got a fhot at, and killed one. The mo- l—,--> ment we had iired, the natives, whom wc had not difcovered luefday zo* before, fet up a moft. hideous noifc in two or three places clofe by us. We hallooed in our turn; and, at the fame time, retired to our boat, which was full half a mile off. The natives kept up their clamouring noife, but did not follow us. Indeed we found, afterwards, that they could not; becaufc of a branch of the river between us and them ; nor did we find their numbers anfwerable to the noife they made. As foon as we got to our boat, and found that there was a river that would admit us, I rowed in, and was foon after joined by Mr. Cooper, in the other boar. With this reinforcement I proceeded up the river, mooting wild ducks, of which there were great numbers; as wc went along, now and then, hearing the natives in the woods. At length two appeared on the banks of the river, a man and a woman; and the latter kept waving fomething white in her hand, as a fign of friendfhip. Mr. Cooper being near them, I called to him to land, as I wanted to take the advantage of the tide to get as high up as pomble, which did not much exceed half a mile, when I was flopped by the flrength of the flrcam and great flones which lay in the bed of the river. On my return, I found that, as Mr. Cooper did not land when the natives expected him, they had retired into the woods ; but two others now appeared on the oppofite bank. I endeavoured to have an interview with them; but this I could not effect* For, as 1 approached the more, they always retired farther into the woods, which were fo thick as to cover them from our fight. The failing tide M 2 obliged J773« obliged me to retire out of the river, to the place where we April. -- o <—^—-f had fpent the night. There wc breakfafled, and afterwards uefday 2o. embark.ec^ m orcjer t0 return on board; but, jufl as we were going, we faw two men, on the oppofite iliore, hallooing to us, which induced me to row over to them. I landed, with two others, unarmed the two natives (landing about 100 yards from the water fide, with each a fpear in his hand. When we three advanced, they retired; but flood when I advanced alone. It was fome little time before I could prevail upon them to lay down their fpears. This, at laft, one of them did; and met me with a grafs plant in his hand, one end of which he gave me to hold, while he held the other. Standing in this manner, he began a fpeech, not one word of which I underflood; and made fome long paufcs; waiting, as I thought, for me to anfwer ; for, when I fpoke, he proceeded. As foon as this ceremony was over, which was not long, we faluted each other. He then took his Hahou,;-or coat, from off his own back, and put it upon mine ; after which peace feemed firmly cflablifhed. More people joining us did not in the leafl alarm them; on the contrary they faluted every one as he came up. I gave to each a hatchet and a knife, having nothing elfe with me: perhaps thefe were the mofl valuable things I could give them; at leafl they were the mofl ufcful. They wanted us to go to their habitation, telling us they would give us fomething to eat; and I was forry that the tide, and other circumflances, would not permit me to accept of their invitation. More people were feen in the fkirts of the wood, but none of them joined us; probably thefe were their wives and children. When we took leave they fof-2 lowed lowed us to our boat, and feeing the mufquets lying acrofs *773- April, the flern, they made figns for them to be taken away; v-—' which being done, they came along fide and ailifted us to launch her. At this time, it was neceffary for us to look well after them, for they wanted to take away every thing they could lay their hands upon, except the mufquets. Thefe they took care not to touch, being taught by the flaughter they had feen us make among the wild fowl, to look upon them as inllruments of death. We faw no canoes or other boats with them; two or three logs of wood tied together ferved the fame purpofe; and were indeed fufficient for the navigation of the river, on the banks of which they lived. There fifh and fowl were in fuch plenty, that they had no occafion to go far for food ; and they have but few neighbours to diflurb them. The whole number at this place, I believe, does not exceed three families. It was noon when we took leave of thefe two men, and proceeded down the North fide of the bay which I explored in my way, and the ifles that lie in the middle. Night, however, overtook us, and obliged me to leave one arm unlooked into, and haften to the fhip, which we reached by eight o'clock. I then learnt that the man and his daughter flayed on board the day before till noon ; and that, having underflood from our people what things were left in Cafcade Cove, the place where they were firfl feen, he fent and took them away. He and his family remained near us till to-day, when they all went away, and we faw them no more; which was the more extraordinary, as he never left us empty-handed. From one or another he did not get lefs than nine or ten hatchets, three or four times that numbers number of large fpike nails, befides many other articles. So far as thefe things may be counted riches in New Zealand, he exceeds every man there; being at this time pof-fefTed of more hatchets and axes than are in the whole country befides. Wedncf. 21. in the afternoon of the 21ft, I went with a party out to the ifles on feal hunting. The furf ran fo high that we could only land in one place, where we killed ten. Thefe animals ferved us for three purpofes ; the fkins we made ufe of for our rigging; the fat gave oil for our lamps; and the flefh we eat. Their harflets are equal to that of a hog, and the flefh of fome of them eats little inferior to beef-fteaks. The following day nothing worthy of notice was done. Friday 23. In the morning of the 23d, Mr. Pickerfgill, Mr. Gilbert, and two others, went to the Cafcade Cove, in order to afcend one of the mountains, the fummit of which they reached by two o'clock in the afternoon, as we could fee by the fire they made. In the evening they returned on board, and reported that, in-land, nothing was to be feen but barren mountains with huge craggy precipices, disjoined by valleys, or rather chafms, frightful to behold. On the S. E, fide of Cape Weft, four miles out at fea, they difcovered a ridge of rocks, on which the waves broke very high. I believe thefe rocks to be the fame we faw the evening we firfl fell in with the land. Saturday 14. Having five geefc left out of thofe we brought from the Cape of Good Hope, I went with them next morning to Goofe Cove (named fo on this account), where I left them. I chofe this place for two reafons; full, here are no inhabitants to diiturb them; and fecondly, here being the mofl food, I make no doubt but that they will breed, and may in 1773- .April. Tueiday 20. in time fpread over the whole country, and fully anfwer ^773- my intention in leaving them. We fpent the day (hooting in <-^-~> and about the Cove, and returned aboard about ten o'clock Saturday *4* in the evening. One of the party fhot a white hern, which agreed exactly with Mr. Pennant's description, in his Britifh Zoology, of the white herns that either now are, or were formerly, in England. The 25th was the eighth fair day we had had fuccef- Sund»y2s«. fively; a circumftance, 1 believe, very uncommon in this place, efpecially at this feafon of the year. This fair weather gave us an opportunity to complete our wood and water, to overhaul the rigging, caulk the fhip, and put her in a condition for fea. Fair weather was, however, now at an end; for it began to rain this evening, and continued, without intermiflion, till noon the next day, when we caff Monday 26. off the more falls, hove the fhip out of the creek to her anchor, and Readied her with an hawfer to the more. On the 27th, hazy weather, with fhowers of rain. In Tuefdayz7* the morning I fet out, accompanied by Mr. Pickerfgill and the two Mr. Forflers, to explore the arm or inlet I difcovered the day I returned from the head of the bay. After rowing about two leagues up it, or rather down, I found it to communicate with the fea, and to afford a better outlet for fhips bound to the North than the one I came in by. After making this difcovery, and refrefhing ourfelves on broiled fifh and wild fowl, wc fet out for the fhip, and got on board at eleven o'clock at night j leaving two arms we had difcovered, and which run in the Eaft, unexplored. In this expedition we mot forty-four birds, fea-pies, ducks, &c. without going one foot out of our way, or caufing any other delay than picking them up. 1 Having 1773* Having got the tents and every other article on board on the 28th, we only now waited for a wind to carry Us out Wednef. 28. ^ ^e harbour, and through New Paffage, the way I pro-pofed to go to fea. Every thing being removed from the fhore, I fet fire to the top-wood, &c. in order to dry a piece Thurfday 29. of the ground we had occupied, which, next morning, I dug up, and fowed with feveral forts of garden feeds. The foil was fuch as did not promife fuccefs to the planter; it was, however, the befl we could find. At two o'clock in the afternoon, we weighed with a light breeze at S. W., and flood up the bay for the new paffage. Soon after we had got through, between the Eafl end of Indian Ifland and the Well end of Long Ifland, it fell calm, which obliged us to anchor in forty-three fathom water, under the North fide of the latter ifland. Friday 30. In the morning of the 30th we weighed again with a light breeze at Weft, which, together with all our boats a-head towing, was hardly fufficient to ftern the current. For, after flruggling till fix o'clock in the evening, and not getting more than five miles from our laft anchoring place, we anchored under the North fide of Long Ifland, not more than one hundred yards from the fhore, to which we faften-ed a hawfer. May. At day-light next morning, May ifl, we got again un-Saturday i. ^er ancj attempted to work to windward, having a light breeze down the bay. At firft, we gained ground ; but at laft, the breeze died away; when we foon loft more than we had got, and were obliged to bear up for a cove on the North fide of Long Ifland, where we anchored in nineteen fathom water, a muddy bottom: in this cove we found two huts not long fince inhabited ; and near them two very large fire-places fire-places or ovens, fuch as they have in the Society Ifles. *773 In this cove we were detained by calms, attended with con- < _r tinual rain, till the 4th in the afternoon, when, with the Tuefday affiflance of a fmall breeze at S. W., we got the length of the reach or paffage leading to fea. The breeze then left us, and we anchored under the Eaft point, before a fandy beach, in thirty fathoms water; but this anchoring place hath nothing to recommend it like the one we came from, which hath every thing in its favour. In the night we had fome very heavy fqualls of wind, Wcdnef.< attended with rain, hail, and fnow, and fome thunder. Day-light exhibited to our view all the hills and mountains covered with fnow. At two o'clock in the afternoon, a light breeze fprung up at S. S. W., which, with the help of our boats, carried us down the paffage to our intended anchoring place, where, at eight o'clock, we anchored in fixteen fathoms water and moored, with a hawfer to the fhore, under the firft point on the ftarboard fide, as you come in from fea j from which we were covered by the point. In the morning of the 6th, I fent Lieutenant Pickerfgill, Thurfday accompanied by the two Mr. Forfters, to explore the fecond arm which turns in to the Eaft, myfelf being confined on board by a cold. At the fame time, I had every thing got up from between decks, the decks well cleaned and well aired with fires; a thing that ought never to be long neglected in wet moifl weather. The fair weather, which had continued all this day, was fucceeded in the night by a ftorm from N. W., which blew in hard fqualls, attended with rain, and obliged us to ftrikc top-gallant and lower yards, and to carry out another hawfer to the fhore. The bad weather con- N tinned tinued the whole day and the fucceeding night, after which, it fell calm with fair weather. At feven in the morning on the 8th, Mr. Pickerfgill returned, together with his companions, in no very good plight; having been at the head of the arm he was fent to explore, which he judged to extend in to the Eaflward about eight miles. In it is a good anchoring-place, wood, frefli. water, wild fowl and fifh. At nine o'clock I fet out to explore the other inlet, or the one next the fea; and ordered Mr. Gilbert the mailer to go and examine the paffage out to fea, while thofe on board were getting every thing in readinefs to depart. I proceeded up the inlet till five o'clock in the afternoon, when bad weather obliged me to return, before t had feen the end of it. As this inlet lay nearly parallel with the fea-coafl, I was of opinion that it might communicate with Doubtful Harbour, or fome other inlet to the Northward. Appearances were, however, againfl this opinion, and the bad weather hindered me from determining the point, although a few hours would have done it. I was about ten miles up, and thought I faw the end of it: I found on the North fide three coves, in which, as alfo on the South fide, between the main and the ifles that lie about four miles up the inlet, is good anchorage, wood, water, and what elfe can be expected, fuch as fifh and wild fowl: of the latter we killed, in this excurfion, three dozen. After a very hard row, againfl both wind and rain, we got on board about nine o'clock at night, without a dry thread on. our backs. This bad weather continued no longer than till the next morning, when it became fair, and the fky cleared up. But as we had not wind to carry us to fea, we made up two fhooting mooting parties ; myfelf, accompanied by the two Mr. For- J773 iters and fome others, went to the arm I was in the day be- u— fore ; and the other party to the coves and ifles Mr. Gilbert had difcovered, when he was out, and where he found many wild fowl. We had a plcafant day, and the evening brought us all on board ; myfelf and party met with good fport; but the other party found little. All the forenoon of the 10th, we had ftrong gales from the Monday Weft, attended with heavy mowers of rain, and blowing in fuch flurries over high land, as made it unfafe for us to get under fail. The afternoon was more moderate, and be. came fair; when myfelf, Mr. Cooper and fome others, went out in the boats to the rocks, which lie at this entrance of the bay, to kill feals. The weather was rather unfavourable for this fport, and the fea ran high, fo as to make landing difficult; we, however, killed ten ; but could only wait to bring away five, with which we returned on board. In the morning of the i ith, while we were getting under Tuefday fail, I fent a boat for the other five feals. At nine o'clock we weighed, with a light breeze at S. E., and flood out to fea, taking up the boat in our way. It was noon before we got clear of the land ; at which time we obferved in 450 34' 30" South j the entrance of the bay bore S. E. by E. and Break-fea ifles (the outermofl ifles that lie at the South point of the entrance of the bay) bore S. S. E. diftant three miles; the fouthermoft point, or that of Five Fingers Point, bore South 420 Weft; and the northermoft land N. N. E. In this fituation we had a prodigious fwell from S. W., which broke., with great violence, on all the fhores that were ex-pofed to it. CHAP. V. Dire&ions for failing in and out of Dufky Bayy with an Account of the adjacent Country\ its Produce and Inhabitants : Afironomical and Nautilal Obfervations. AS there are few places where I have been in New Zealand, that afford the neceffary refreshments in fuch plenty as Dufky Bay, a fhort defcription of it, and of the adjacent country, may prove of ufe to fome future navigators, as well as acceptable to the curious reader. For although this country be far remote from the prefent trading part of the world, we can, by no means, tell what ufe future ages may make of the difcoveries made in the prefent. The reader of this journal muft already know that there are two entrances to this bay. The South entrance is fituated on the North fide of Cape Weft, in latitude 45 0 48' South, It is formed by the land of the Cape to the South, and Five Fingers Point to the North. This point is made remarkable by feveral pointed rocks lying off it, which, when viewed from certain fituations, have fome refemblance to the five fingers of a man's hand; from whence it takes its name. The land of this point is ftill more remarkable by the little fimilarity it bears to any other of the lands adjacent; being a narrow peninfula lying North and South, of a moderate and equal height, and all covered with wood. To fail into the bay by this entrance is by no means difficult, as I know of no danger but what fhews itfclf. The worfl that attends it, is the depth of water, which is too great S k e 7(1/ o f I) V S KY I j A v iu N K W Z K K 1. A Nl> 177.3. » WWWulmrcli iiulplii.Illi„m„n.i7;() /wM.'Vt,;//■;/■ y'/f//,-,- •» . \ ° X 111 great to admit of anchorage, except in the coves and harbours, and very near the fhores ; and even, in many places, this laft cannot be done. The anchoring-places are, however, numerous enough, and equally fafe and commodious. Pickerfgill harbour, where we lay, is not inferior to any other bay, for two or three fhips: it is fituated on the South fhore abreaft of the Weft end of Indian Ifland ; which ifland may be known from the others by its greater proximity to that fhore. There is a paffage into the harbour on both fides of the ifle, which lies before it. The moft room is on the upper or Eaft fide, having regard to a funken rock, near the main, abreaft this end of the ifle: Keep the ifle clofe aboard, and you will not only avoid the rock, but keep in anchoring ground. The next place, on this fide, is Cafcade Cove ; where there is room for a fleet of fhips, and alfo a paffage in, on either fide of the ifle which lies in the entrance; taking care to avoid a funken rock which lies near the S. E. fhore, a little above the ifle. This rock, as well as the one in Pickerfgill Harbour, may be feen at half ebb. It muft be nccdlefs to enumerate all the anchoring-places in this capacious bay; one or two, on each fide, will be quite fufficient. Thofe who want to be acquainted with more, need only confult the annexed chart; which they may depend upon as being without any material error. To fuch as put into this bay, and are afterwards bound to the South, I would recommend Facile Harbour. To fail into this harbour, keep the infide of the land of Five Fingers Point aboard, until you are the length of the ifles, which Tie abreaft the middle of that land. Haul round the North point of thefe ifles, and you will have the harbour before you bearing Eaft. But the chart will be a fufficient guide, not only to fail into this, but into all the other anchoring-places, as well as to fail quite through, from the South to the North entrance. However, I fhall give fome directions for this navigation. In coming in at the South entrance keep the South more aboard, until you approach the Weft end of Indian Iiland, which you will know not only by its apparent, but real nearnefs to the fhore. From this fituation, it will appear as a point dividing the bay into two arms0 Leave this ifle on your flarboard fide, and continue your courfe up the bay, which is E. by N. * N., without turning either to the right or left. When you are abreaft, or above the Eaft end of this hie, you will find the bay of a confider-able breadth ; and, higher up, to be contracted by two projecting points. Three miles above the one, on the North fide, and abreaft of two fmall ifles, is the paflage out to fea, or to the North entrance; and this lies nearly in the direction of N. by W. and S. by E. The North entrance lies in the latitude of 45° 38' South, and five leagues to the North of Five Fingers Point. To make this entrance plain, it will be neceffary to approach the fhore within a few miles ; as all the land within, and on each fide, is of confiderable height. Its fituation may, however, be known at a greater diftance; as it lies under the firft craggy mountains which rife to the North of the land of Five Fingers Point. The fbuthermoft of thefe mountains is remarkable; having at its fummit two fmall hillocks. When this mountain bears S. S. E., you will be before the entrance, on the South fide of which arc feveral ifles. The weftermoft and outermoft is the moft confiderable, both for height and circuit ; and this I have called Break-fea Hie, becaufe it effectu- 6 ally ally covers this entrance from the violence of the S. W. fwell, which the other entrance is fo much expofed to. In failing in you leave this ifle, as well as all the others, to the South. The belt anchorage is in the firft or North arm, which is on the larboard hand going in, cither in one of the coves, or behind the ifles that lie under the S. E. fhore. The country is exceedingly mountainous ; not only about Dufky Bay, but through all the fouthern part of this weflern coaft of Tavai Poenammoo. A profpect more rude and craggy is rarely to be met with; for inland appears nothing but the fummits of mountains of a flupcndous height, and confifting of rocks that are totally barren and naked, except where they are covered with fnow. But the land bordering on the fea coaft, and all the iflands, are thickly clothed with wood, almoft down to the water's edge. The trees are of various kinds, fuch as are common to other parts of this country, and are fit for the lhipwrightv houfe-carpenter, cabinet-maker, and many other ufes. Except in the river Thames I have not feen finer timber in. all New Zealand: both here and in that river, the moft confiderable for fine is the Spruce tree, as we called it from the fimilarity of its foliage to the American Spruce, though the wood is more ponderous and bears a greater refemblancc to the Pitch pine. Many of thefe trees are from fix to eight, and ten feet in girt, and from fixty to eighty or one hundred feet in length ; large enough to make a main-maft for a~ fifty gun fhip. Here are, as well as in all other parts of New Zealand, a great number of aromatic trees and fhrubs, moft of the myrtle kind; but amidft all this variety we met with none which bore fruit fit to eat. las In many parts the woods are fo over-run with fuple-jacks, that it is fcarcely poflible to force one's way amongft them. I have feen feveral which were fifty or fixty fathoms long. The foil is a deep black mould, evidently compofcd of decayed vegetables, and fo loofe that it finks under you at every ftep ; and this may be the reafon why we meet with fo many large trees, as we do, blown down by the wind, even in the thickeft part of the woods. All the ground amongft the trees is covered with mofs and fern, of both which there is great variety; but except the flax or hemp plant, and a few other plants, there is very little herbage of any fort, and none that was eatable, that we found, except about a handful of water-crefles, and about the fame quantity of cellery. What Dufky Bay moft abounds with is fifh.: a boat with fix or eight men, with hooks and lines, caught daily fufficient to ferve the whole fhip's company. Of this article the variety is almoft equal to the plenty; and of fuch kinds as are common to the more northern coaft; but fome are fuperior; and in particular the cole fifh, as we called it, which is both larger and finer flavored than any I had feen before, and was, in the opinion of moft on board, the higheft luxury the fea afforded us. The fhell fifh are, mufcles, cockles, fcallops, cray-fifh, and many other forts ; all fuch as are to be found in every other part of the coaft. The only amphibious animals, are feals. Thefe are to be found in great numbers, about this bay, on the fmall rocks and ifles near the fea coaft. We found here five different kinds of ducks, fome of which I do not recollect to have any where feen before. The largeft are as big as a Mufcovy duck, with a very beautiful variegated plumage, on which account we called it the /■'t/f/i.'/tu/ /<'?/ Jtf777 W^StraAan i/ilfe*Street S/welane,i: ThotGutelt vt tti*So\md Ziw/on t 0330 the Painted duck: both male and female have a large white fpot on each wing; the head and neck of the latter is white, but all the other feathers, as well as thofe on the head and neck of the drake, are of a dark variegated colour. The fecond fort have a brown plumage, with bright green feathers in their wings, and are about the fizc of an Englifh tame duck. The third fort is the blue-grey duck before mentioned, or the whiffling duck, as fome called them from the whiflling noife they made. What is mofl remarkable in thefe is, that the end of their beaks is foft, and of a fkinny, or more properly, cartilaginous fubllancc. The fourth fort is fomething bigger than teal, and all black except the drake, which has fome white feathers in his wing. There are but few of this fort; and wc law them nowhere but in the river at the head of the bay. The la(l fort is a good deal like a teal, and very common, I am told, in England. The other fowls, whether belonging to the fea or land, arc the fame that arc to be found in common in other parts of this country, except the blue pctcrcl before mentioned, and the water or wood hens. Thefe laft, although they are numerous enough here, are fo fcarcc in other parts, that I never faw but one. The rcafon may be, that as they cannot fly, they inhabit the fkirts of the woods, and feed on the fea beech ; and are fo very tame or foolifh, as to ftand and flare at us till we knocked them down with a flick. The natives may have in a manner wholly destroyed them. They are a fort of rail, about the fizc and a good deal like a common dunghill hen, moft of them arc of a dirty black or dark brown colour, and cat very well in a pyc or fricaflee. Amongft the fmall birds I muft not omit to panicularifc the wattle-bird, poy-bird, and fan-tail, on O account account of their Angularity, efpecially as I find they are not mentioned in the narrative of any former voyage. The wattlc-hird, fo called becaufe it has two wattles under its beak as large as thofe of a fmall dunghill eock, is larger, particularly in length, than an Englifh black-bird. Its bill is fhort and thick, and its feathers of a dark lead colour ; the colour of its wattles is a dull yellow, almoft an orange colour. The poy-bird is lcfs than the wattle-bird. The feathers of a fine mazarine blue, except thofe of its neck, which are of a moft beautihil filver-grey, and two or three fhort white ones, wftfeh are on the pinion joint of the wing. Under its throat hang two little tufts of curled, mow-white feathers, called its poles, which being the Otaheitean word for ear-rings, occafioned our giving that name to the bird;, which is not more remarkable for the beauty of its plumage than for the fweetnefs of its note. The flefh is alfo moft delicious, and was the greatcft luxury the woods afforded us. Of the fan-tail, there are different forts, but the body of the moft remarkable one is fcarcely larger than a good filbert, yet it fpreads a tail of moft beautiful plumage, full three quarters of a femi-circle, of at leaft four or five inches radius. For three or four days after we arrived in Pickerfgill Harbour, and as we were clearing the woods to fet up our tents, Sec. a four-footed animal was feen by three or four of our people, but as no two gave the fame defcription of it, I cannot fay of what kind it is. All, however, agreed, that it was about the fize of a cat, with fhort legs, and of a moufe colour. One of the feamen, and he who had the beft beft view of it, faid it had a bufhy tail, and was the moft like a jackall of any animal he knew. The moft probable conjecture is, that it is of a new fpecies. Be this as it may, we are now certain, that this country is not fo deftitute of quadrupeds as was once thought. The moft mifchievous animals here, are the fmall black fand flies, which are very numerous, and fo troublefomc, that they exceed every thing of the kind I ever met with. Wherever they bite they caufe a fwelling, and fuch an intolerable itching, that it is not poflible to refrain from fcratching, which at laft brings on ulcers like the fmali-pox. The almoft continual rains may be reckoned another evil attending this bay; though perhaps this may only happen at this feafbn of the year. Neverthelefs, the fituation of the country, the vaft height, and ncarnefs of the mountains, fecm to fubjeet it to much rain at all times. Our people, who were daily expofed to the rain, felt no ill effects from it; on the contrary, fuch as were fick and ailing when we came in, recovered daily, and the whole crew foon became ftrong and vigorous ; which can only be attributed to the heahhinefs of the place, and the frefli provifions it afforded. The beer certainly contributed not a little. As I have already obferved, we at firft made it of a decoction of the fpruce leaves ; but finding that this alone made the beer too aftringent, we afterwards mixed with it an equal quantity of the tea plant (a name it obtained in my former voyage from our ufing it as tea then, as we alfo did now) which partly deftroyed the aftringency of the other, and made the beer exceedingly palatable, and efteemed by every one on board. We brewed it in the fame O 2 manner 1773. manner as fpruce beer, and die procefs is as follows : firft, .1 make a flrong decoction of the fmall branches of the fpruce and tea plants, by boiling them three or four hours, or until the bark will ftrip with eafe from off the branches; then take them out of the copper, and put in the proper quantity of melaffes ; ten gallons of which is fufficient to make a ton or two hundred and forty gallons of beer; let this mixture juft boil; then put it into the cafks; and, to it, add an equal quantity of cold water, more or lefs according to the ftrength of the decoction, or your tafte: when the whole is milk-warm, put in a little grounds of beer, or ycaft if you have it, or any thing elfe that will caufe fermentation, and in a few days the beer will be fit to drink. After the cafks have been brewed in two or three times, the beer will generally ferment itfelf, cfpecially if the weather is warm. As I had in fp ilia ted juice of wort on board, and could not apply it to a better purpofe, we ufed it together with melafTesor fugar, to make thefe two articles go farther. For of the former I had but one cafk, and of the latter little to fpare for this brewT-ing. Had I known how well this beer would have fuccccded^ and the great ufe it was of to the people, I fhould have come better provided. Indeed I was partly difcouraged by an experiment made during my former voyage ; which did not fuccced then, owing, as I now believe, to fome mif-management. Any one who is in the leaft acquainted with fpruce pines, will find the tree which I have diuinguifhed by that name. There arc three forts of it; that which has the fmalleft leaves and deepeft colour, is the fort wc brewed with, but • doubtlefs all three might flifcly fcrvc that purpofe. The tea plant is a fmall tree or ilirub, with live white petals, or ftowcr-lcavcs, fhaped like thofe of a rofe, having fmaller ones f't/M.'"',.;//'',/■:■'rr'"S;/,i/.;/u in X,-n X//r,-rS/i.u-/.ittn- A• YtiSoi./.-//f/t;/.;-X*»,„/ K"\XII ones of the fame figure in the intermediate fpaccs, and twenty or more filaments or threads. The tree Sometimes grows to a moderate height, and is generally bare on the lower part, with a number of fmall branches growing clofe together towards the top. The leaves are fmall and pointed, like thofe of the myrtle ; it bears a dry roundifh feed cafe, and grows commonly in dry places near the fhores. The leaves, as I have already obferved, were ufed by many of us as tea, which has a very agreeable bitter, and flavour, when they are recent, but lofes fome of both when they are dried. When the infufion was made flrong, it proved emetic to fome, in the fame manner as green tea. The inhabitants of this bay are of the fame race of people with thofe in the other parts of this country, fpeak the fame language, and obferve nearly the fame cufloms. Thefe indeed feem to have a cuflom of making prefents before they receive any; in which they come nearer to the Ota-heiteans than the reft of their countrymen. What could induce three or four families (fori believe there are not more) to fcparate themfclvcs fo far from the fociety of the reft of their fellow-creatures, is not eafy to guefs. By our meeting with inhabitants in this place, it feems probable that there are people fcattcred over all this fouthern ifland. But the many vcltiges of them in different parts of this bay, compared with the number that we actually faw, indicates that they live a wandering life ; and, if one may judge from appearances and circumftanccs, few as they are, they live not in perfect amityone family with another. For, if they did, why do they not form themfelves into fome fociety? a thing not only natural to man, but obferved even by the brute creation. I mall I mail conclude this account of Dufky Ray with fome obfervations made and communicated to me by Mr. Wales. He found, by a great variety of obfervations, that the latitude of his obfervatory at Pickerfgill Harbour, was 450 47' 26" ' South ; and, by the mean of feveral diitances of the moon from the fun, that its longitude was 1660 18'Eaft; whioh is about half a degree lefs than it is laid down in my chart conftrucTcd in my former voyage. He found the variation of the needle or compafs by the mean of three different needles, to be 130 49' Eaft, and the dip of the South end 70° 5'^. The times of high water on the full and change days, he found to be at ioh 57', and the tide to rife and fall at the former eight feet, at the latter five feet eight inches. This difference in the rife of the tides between the new and full moon is a little extraordinary, and was probably occafioned at this time by fome accidental caufe, fuch as winds, &c. but, be it as it will, I am well allured there was no error in the obfervations. Suppofing the longitude of the obfervatory to be as above, the error of Mr. Kendal's watch, in longitude, will be i° 48', minus, and that of Mr. Arnold's 39', 25". The former was found to be gaining 6", 461 a-day on mean time, and the latter lofing 99", 361. Agreeably to thefe rates the longitude by them was to be determined, until an opportunity of trying them again. I muft obicrve, that in finding the longitude by Mr. Kendal's watch, we fuppofed it to have gone mean time from the Cape of Good Hope. Had its Cape rate been allowed, the error would not have been fo great. CHAP. VI. Paffage from Dufky Bay to ^ueen Charlotte's Sound, with an Account of fome Water Spouts, and of our joining the Adventure. AFTER leaving Dufky Bay, as hath been already mentioned, I directed my courfe along fhore for Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I expected to find the Adventure. In this paffage we met with nothing remarkable or worthy of notice, till the 17th at four o'clock in the afternoon. Being then about three leagues to the weftward of Cape Stephens, having a gentle gale at Weft by South, and clear weatheri the wind at once flattened to a calm, the fky became fud-denly obfeured by dark denfe clouds, and feemed to forebode much wind. This occafioned us to clew up all our fails, and prefently after fix water fpouts were feen. Four rofe and fpent themfclves between us and the land ; that is to the S. W. of us; the fifth was without us; the fixth firft appeared in the S. W., at the diftance of two or three miles at leaf! from us. Its progreftive motion was to the N. E., not in a ftrait, but in a crooked line, and palled within fifty yard« of our ftern, without our feeling any of its effcctsr The diameter of the bafe of this fpout I judged to be about fifty or fixty feet; that is, the fea wuthin this fpace was much agitated, and foamed up to a great height. From this a tube or rcund body was formed, by which the water, or air, or both,' was carried in a fpiral ftream up to the clouds. Some of our people faid they faw a bird in the one 8 near near us ; which was whirled round like the fly of a jack as it was carried upwards. During the time thefe fpouts laded, we had, now and then, light puffs of wind from all points of the compafs; with fome few flight fhowers of rain, which generally fell in large drops; and the weather continued thick and hazy, for fome hours after, with variable light breezes of wind. At length the wind fixed in its old point, and the fky renamed its former fercnity. Some of thefe fpouts appeared, at times, to be flationary: and, at other times, to have a quick, but very unequal, progrcffive motion, and always in a crooked line, fomctimes one way and fomctimes another ; fo that, once or twice, we obferved them to crofs one another. From the afcending motion of the bird, and feveral other circumflances, it was very plain to us that thefe fpouts were caufed by whirlwinds ; and that the water in them was violently hurried upwards, and did not defcend from the clouds, as I have heard fome aflcrr. The firft appearance of them is by the violent agitation and riling up of the water; and, prefently after, you fee a round column or tube forming from the clouds above, which apparently defcends till it joins the agitated wTatcr below. I fay apparently, becaufe 1 believe it not to be fo in reality, hut that the tube is already formed from the agitated water below, and afcends, though at firft it is either too fmall or too thin to be feen. When the tube is formed, or becomes vifible, its apparent diameter increafcth until it is pretty large; after that, it decreafeth; and, at laft, it breaks or becomes invifxble towards the lower part. Soon after, the fea below refumes its natural Rate, and the tube is drawn, by little and little, up to the clouds, where it is diflipatcd. The fame tube would fome times have a vertical, and fomctimes a crooked or inclined direction. The mofl rational rational account I have read of water fpouts is in Mr. Fal- J773- May coner's Marine Dictionary, which is chiefly collected from u— the philofophical writings of the ingenious Dr. Franklin. I Monda/*7* have been told -that the firing of a gun will diflipatc them ; and I am very forry I did not try the experiment, as we were near enough, and had a gun ready for the purpofe ; but as foon as the danger was pad, I thought no more about it, being too attentive in viewing thefe extraordinary meteors. At the time this happened the barometer flood at 29, 75, and the thermometer at 56. In coming from Cape Farewell to Cape Stephens, 1 had a better view of the coafl than I had when I paffed in my former voyage, and obferved that, about fix leagues to the Eaft of the firft mentioned cape, is a fpacious bay, which is covered from the fea by a low point of land. This is, I believe, the fame that Captain Tafman anchored in on the 18th of December 1642, and by him called Murderer's Bay, by reafon of fome of his men being killed by the natives. Blind Bay, fo named by me in my former voyage, lies to the S. E. of this, and feems to run a long way in-land to the South ; the fight, in this direction, not being bounded by any land. The wind having returned to the Weft, as already mentioned, we refumcd our courfe to the Eaft; and at day-light the next morning, (being the 18th) we appeared off Queen Tuefdayis. Charlotte's Sound, where we difcovered our confort the Adventure, by the fignals fhe made to us; an event which every one felt with an agreeable fatisfaction. The frefh wefterly wind now died away, and was fuccecded by light airs from the South and S. W.; fo that we had to work in, with our boats a-head towing. In the doing of this, we difcovered a rock, which we did not fee in my former voy- P age. age. It lies in the direction of S. by E. * E.; diftant four miles from the outermoft of the Two Brothers, and in a line with the White Rocks, on with the middle of Long Ifland. It is juft even with the furface of the fea, and hath deep water all round it. At noon, Lieutenant Kemp of the Adventure came on board ; from whom I learnt that their fhip had been here about fix weeks. With the aififtance of a light breeze, our boats, and the tides, we, at fix o'clock in the evening, got to an anchor in Ship Cove near the Adventure ; when Captain Furneaux came on board, and gave me the following account of his proceedings, from the time we parted, to my arrival here. CHAP, CHAP. VII. Captain Furneauxs Narrative, from the Time the two Ships were feparated, to their joining again in ^ueen Charlotte s Sound, with fome Account of Van Diemens Land. /"AN the 7th of February 1773, in the morning, the Refo- Flb7r^;y V^/ lution beine then about two miles ahead, the wind «—*—— - Sunday 7. mining then to the weftward, brought on a very thick fog, fo that we loft fight of her. We foon after heard a gun, the report of which we imagined to be on the larboard beam; we then hauled up S. E., and kept firing a four pounder every half hour; but had no anfwer, nor further fight of her ; then we kept the courfe we fleered on before the fog came on. In the evening it began to blow hard, and was, at intervals, more clear; but could fee nothing of her, which gave us much uneafinefs. We then tacked and flood to the weftward, to cruize in the place where we laft faw her, according to agreement in cafe of feparation; but, next day, came on a very heavy gale of wind and thick Monday 8. weather, that obliged us to bring to, and thereby prevented us reaching the intended fpot. However, the wind coming more moderate, and the fog in fome meafure clearing away, we cruized as near the place as we could get, for three days; when, giving over all hopes of joining company again, we bore away for winter-quarters, diftant fourteen hundred leagues, through a fea entirely unknown, and reduced the allowance of water to one quart per day. P 2 We 1773- February. i ii i ^ ~ Monday 8. Friday 26. March. Monday 1. We kept between the latitude of 52 and 53 South ; had much wefterly wind, hard gales with fqualls, fnow and fleet, with a long hollow fea from the S. W., fo that we judged there is no land in that quarter. After we reached the longitude of 950 Eafl, we found the variationdecreafe very faft; but, for a more perfect account, I refer you to the table at the end of this book. On the 26th at night, we faw a meteor of uncommon brightnefs in the N. N. W. It directed its courfe to the S. W., with a very great light in the fouthern fky, fuch as is known to the northward by the name of Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights. We faw the light for feveral nights running; and, what is remarkable, we faw but one ice ifland after we parted company with the Refolution, till our making land, though we were moft of the time two or three degrees to the fouthward of the latitude we firft faw it in. We were daily attended by great numbers of fea birds, and frequently faw porpoifes curioufly fpotted white and black. On the firft of March we were alarmed with the cry of land by the man at the maft head, on the larboard beam; which gave us great joy. We immediately hauled our wind and flood for it, but to our mortification were disappointed in a few hours; for what we took to be land, proved no more than clouds, which difappeared as we failed towards them. We then bore away and directed our courfe toward the land laid down in the charts by the name of Van Diemen's Land, difcovered by Tafman in 1642, and laid down in the latitude 440 South, and longitude 1400 Eaft, and fuppofed to join to New Holland. 5 On On the Qth of March, having little wind and pleafant '773- J . 1 March, weather, about nine, A. M. being then m the latitude 430 <-<—* 37' South, longitude, by lunar obfervation, 145* 36' Eaft, and Tu"fday 9* by account, 1430 10' Eaft, from Greenwich, we faw the land bearing N. N. E. about eight or nine leagues diftance. It appeared moderately high, and uneven near the fea; the hills further back formed a double land and much higher. There feemed to be feveral iflands, or broken land, to the N. W. as the fhore trenched; but by reafon of clouds that hung over them, we could not be certain whether they did not join to the main. We hauled immediately up for it, and by noon were within three or four leagues of it. A point* much like the Ramhead, off Plymouth, which I take to be the fame that Tafman calls South Cape, bore north four leagues off us. The land from this cape runs directly to the eaflward; about four leagues along fhore are three iflands about two miles long, and feveral rocks, refcmbling the Mewftone (particularly one which we fo named) about four or five leagues E. S. E. 4 E. off the above Cape, which Tafman has not mentioned, or laid down in his draughts. After you pafs thefe iflands the land lies E. by N. and W. by S. by the compafs nearly. It is a bold fhore, and feems to afford feveral bays or anchoring places, but believe deep water. From the S. W. cape, which is in the latitude of 430 39' South, and longitude 145° 50' Eaft, to the S. E. cape, in the latitude 430 36', South, longitude 1470 eaft, is nearly fixteen leagues, and founding from forty-eight to feventy fathoms, fand and broken fliells, three or four leagues off fhore. FIcre the country is hilly and full of trees, the fhore rocky and difficult landing, occafioned by the wind blowing here continually from the weftward, which occafions fuch a furf 1773- a furf that the fand cannot lie on the more. Wc law no MiircJi. . . <-,-* inhabitants here. Wcdnef. 10. The morning on the ioth of March being calm, the {hip then about four miles from the land, lent the great cutter on fhore with the fecond lieutenant, to find if there was any harbour or good bay. Soon after, it beginning to blow very hard, made the fignal for the boat to return, feveral times, but they did net fee or hear any thing of it; the fhip then three or four leagues off, that we could not fee any thing of the boat, which gave us great uneafinefs, as there was a very great fea. At half pafl one P. M. to our great fatisfaction, the boat returned on board fafe. They landed, but with much difficulty, and faw feveral places where the Indians had been, and one they lately had left, where they had a fire, with a great number of pearl efcallop fliells round it, which fliells they brought on board, with fome burnt fticks and green boughs. There was a path from this place, through the woods, which in all probability leads to their habitations; but, by reafon of the weather, had not time to purfue it. The foil feems to be very rich; the country well clothed with wood, particularly on the lee fide of the hills ; plenty of water which falls from the rocks in beautiful cafcades for two or three hundred feet perpendicular into the fea; but they did not fee the leafl fign of any place to anchor in with fafety. Hoifled in the boat, and made fail for Frederick Henry Bay. From noon to three P. M. running along fhore E. by N. at which time we were abreaft of the weflermoft point of a very deep bay called by Tafman, Stormy Bay. From the Weft to the Eafl point of this bay there are feveral fmall iflands, and black rocks which we called the Fryars. While crofTing this bay we we had very heavy fqualls and thick weather; at times, ^773-when it cleared up, I faw feveral fires in the bottom of the i—»—* bay, which is near two or three leagues deep, and has, I e ne*1U* doubt not, good places for anchoring, but the weather being fo bad, did not think it fafe to ftand into it. From the Fryars the land trenches away about N. by E. four leagues; We had fmooth water, and kept in fhore, having regular foundings from twenty to fifteen fathoms water. At half paft fix we hauled round a high bluff point, the rocks whereof were like fo many fluted pillars, and had ten fathoms water, fine fand, within half a mile of the fhore. At feven, being abreaft of a fine bay, and having little wind, we came to, with the fmall bower, in twenty-four fathoms, fandy bottom. Juft after we anchored, being a fine clear evening, had a good obfervation of the ftar An-tares and the moon, which gave the longitude of 1470 34' Eaft, being in the latitude of 430 so' South. We firft took this bay to be that which Tafman called Frederick Henry Bay ; but afterwards found that his is laid down five leagues to the northward of this. At day-break the next morning, I fent the mafter in more Thurfday 11. to found the bay, and to find out a watering place j at eight he returned, having found a moft excellent harbour, clear ground from fide to fide, from eighteen to five fathom water all over the bay, gradually decreafing as you go in fhore. We weighed and turned up into the bay; the wind being wefterly, and very little of it, which baffled us much in getting in. At feven o'clock in the evening, we anchored in feven fathoms water, with the fmall bower, and moored with the coafting anchor to the weftward, the North point of the bay N. N. E. £ E. (which we take to be Tafman's Head,) i?n* Head,) and the Eaflermoft point (which wc named Penguin u——i Ifland, from a curious one wc caught there) N. E. by E. J E.; m y 20. ^ watering place W. -i N.; about one mile from the fhore on each fide ; Maria's IflaUd, which is about five or fix leagues off, fhut in with both points; fo that you are quite landlocked in a moil fpacious harbour. Vvre lay here five days, which time was employed in wooding and watering (which is eafily got), and oyer hauling the rigging. We found the country very plcafant; the foil a black, rich, though thin one ; the fides of the hills covered with large trees, and very thick, growing to a great height before they branch off. They are, all of them, of the Evergreen kind, different from any I ever faw; the wood is very brittle and eafily fplit; there is very little variety of forts, having feen but two. The leaves of one are long and narrow; and the feed (of which I got a few) 13 in the fhape of a button, and has a very agreeable Tiifelif The leaves of the other are like the bay, and it has a feed like the white thorn, with an agreeable fpicy taflc and fmcll. Out of the trees we cut down for fire-wood, there iffued fome gum, which the Surgeon called gum-lac. The trees are moftly burnt, or fcorched, near the ground, occafioned by the natives fetting fire to the under-wood in the moft frequented places; \nd by thefe means they have rendered it eafy walking. The land birds we faw, are a bird like a raven; fome of the crow kind, black, with the tips of the feathers of the tail and wings white, their bill long and very fharp 1 fome paroquets; and feveral kinds of fmall birds. The fea-fowl are ducks, teal, and the fkeldrake. I forgot to mention a large white bird, that one of the gentlemen fhot, about the fize of a large kite of the eagle kind. As As for beads, we faw but one, which was an opojfom\ but we obferved the dung of fome, which we judged to be of the deer kind. The fifli in the bay are fcarce; thofe we caught were moftly marks, dog fifh, and a fifh called by the feamen nurfes, like the dog fifli, only full of fmall white fpots; and fome fmall fifh not unlike fprats. The Lagoons (which are brackifh) abound with trout, and feveral other forts of fifh, of which we caught a few with lines, but being much encumbered with flumps of trees, we could not haul the feine. While we lay here, we faw feveral fmokes and large fires, about eight or ten miles in fhore to the northward, but did not fee any of the natives; though they frequently come into this bay, as there were feveral wigwams or huts, where wc found fome bags and nets made of grafs, in which I imagine they carry their provifions and other neceflaries. In one of them there was the none they Rrike fire with, and tinder made of bark, but of what tree could not be diflin-guifhed. We found in one of their huts, one of their fpears, which was made fharp at one end, I fuppofc, with a fhell or flonc. Thofe things we brought away, leaving in the room of them, medals, gun-flints, a few nails, and an old empty barrel with the iron hoops on it. They feem to be quite ignorant of every fort of metal. The boughs, of Which their huts are made, are either broken or fplit, and tied together with grafs in a circular form, the largefl end fluck in the ground, and the fmaller parts meeting in a point at the top, and covered with fern and bark; fo poorly done that they will hardly keep out a fhower of rain. In the middle is the fire-place, furrounded with heaps of mufcle, pearl fcallop, and cray-fifli fliells; which I believe CL - to 1773- March. -~v~__; Monday 15. Tuefday 16. Wednef. 17. to be their chief food, though we could not find any of them. They lie on the ground, on dried grafs, round the fire; and, I believe, they have no fettled place of habitation (as their houfes feemed built only for a few days), but wander about in fmall parties from place to place in fearch of food, and are actuated by no other motive. We never found more than three or four huts in a place, capable of containing three or four perfons each only ; and what is remarkable, we never faw the leafl: marks either of canoe or boat, and it is generally thought they have none ; being altogether, from what we could judge, a very ignorant and wretched fet of people, though natives of a country capable of producing every neceffary of life, and a climate the fmeft in the world. We found not the leafl figns of any minerals or metals. Having completed our wood and water, we failed from Adventure Bay, intending to coafl it up along fhore, till we fhould fall in with the land feen by Captain Cook, and difcover whether Van Diemen's Land joins with New Holland. On the 16th we paffed Maria's Iflands, fo named by Tafman ; they appear to be the fame as the main land. On the 17th, having paffed Schouten's Iflands, we hauled in for the main land, and flood along fhore at the diflance of two or three leagues off. The country here appears to be very thickly inhabited, as there was a continual fire along fhore as we failed. The land hereabouts is much pleafanter, low, and even; but no figns of a harbour or bay, where a fhip might anchor with fafety. The weather being bad, and blowing hard at S. S. E., we could not fend a boat on fhore to have any intercourfe with the inhabitants. In the latitude of 400 50' South, the land trenches away to the weftward, which which I believe forms a deep bay, as we faw from the deck »773« feveral fmokes arifing a-back of the iflands that lay before it, when we could not fee the lead figns of land from the maft head. From the latitude of 400 50' South, to the latitude of 39' 50' South, is nothing but iflands and fhoals; the land high, rocky, and barren. On the 19th, in the latitude of 40° 30' Friday 19, South, obferving breakers about half a mile within fhore of us, we founded, and finding but eight fathoms, immediately hauled off, deepened our water to fifteen fathoms, then bore away, and kept along more again. From the latitude of 39° 50' tO30° S. we faw no land, but had regular foundings from fifteen to thirty fathoms. As we flood on to the northward, wc made land again in about 390; after which we difcontinued our northerly courfe, as we found the ground very uneven, and fhoal-water fome diftance off. I think it a very dangerous fhore to fall in with. The Coaft, from Adventure Bay to the place where we flood away for New Zealand, lies in the direction S. -6 W-ancj N. a E., about feventy-fivc leagues; and it is my opinion that there is no flraits between New Holland and Van Dicmen's Land, but a very deep bay. I fhould have flood farther to the northward, but the wind blowing ftrong at S. S. E, and looking likely to haul round to the eaflward, which would have blown right on the land, I therefore thought it more proper to leave the coalt, and fleer for New Zealand. After we left Van Dicmen's hand, wc had very uncertain weather, with rain and very heavy gufts of wind. On the 24th, we were furprifed with a very fevere fquall, that re- wYJnef. 24, duced us from top-gallant fails to reefed courfes, in the 0^2 fpace 1773- March. Wednef. 24. April. Saturday 3. Sunday 4. fpace of an hour. The fea rifing equally quick, we fhippcd many waves, one of which Rove the large cutter, and drove the fmall one from her lafhing into the waifl; and with much difficulty we faved her from being warned over-board. This gale lafled twelve hours, after which wc had more moderate weather, intermixed with calms. We frequently hoifled out the boats to try the currents, and in general found a fmall drift to the W. S. W. We fhot many birds ; and had, upon the whole, good weather; but as we got near to the land, it came on thick and dirty for feveral days, till we made the coafl of New Zealand in 400 30'S., having made twenty-four degrees of longitude, from Adventure Bay, after a paffage of fifteen days. We had the winds much foutherly in this paffage, and I was under fome apprehenfions of not being able to fetch the Straits, which would have obliged us to fleer away for George's Ifland ; I would therefore advife any who fail to this part, to keep to the fouthward ; particularly in the fall of the year, when the S. and S. E. winds prevail. The land, when we firft made it, appeared high, and formed a confufed jumble of hills and mountains. We fleered along fhore to the northward, but were much retarded in our courfe by reafon of the fwell from the N. E. At noon on the 3d of April, C;*pe Farewell, which is the South point of the entrance of the Weft fide of the Straits, bore E. by N. 4 N. by the compafs, three or four leagues diftant. About eight o'clock we entered the Straits, and fleered N. E. till midnight ; then brought to till day-light, and had foundings from forty-five to fifty-eight fathoms, fand and broken fliells. At day-light, made fail and fleered S. E. by E.j had light airs; Mount Egmont N. N. E. eleven 3 or AND ROUND T HE WORLD. 117 or twelve leagues, and Point Stephens S. E. J E. feven 177.3-leagues. At noon, Mount Egmont N. by E. twelve leagues; — Stephens Ifland S. E. five leagues. In the afternoon we put Sunday4^ the dredge over-board in fixty-five fathoms; but caught nothing except a few fmall fcallops, two or three oyfters, and broken fhells. Standing to the eaflward for Charlotte's Sound, with a light breeze at N. W, in the morning on the 5th, Stephens M^^y-. Ifland bearing S. W. by W. four leagues, we were taken aback with a flrong eaflerly gale, which obliged us to haul our wind to the S. E., and work to windward up under Point Jackfon. The courfe from Stephens Ifland to Point Jackfon, is nearly S. E. by the compafs, eleven leagues diflant, depth of water from forty to thirty two fathoms, fandy giound. As we flood off and on, we fired feveral guns, but faw no figns of any inhabitants. In the afternoon, at half paft two o'clock, finding the tide fet the fhip to the weftward, we anchored with the coafting anchor in thirty-nine fathoms water, muddy ground ; Point Jackfon S. E. ~ E., three leagues; the Eafl point of an inlet (about four leagues to the weftward of Point Jackfon, and which appears to be a good harbour) S. W. by W. i W. At eight P. M. the tide flackening, we weighed and made fail (having while at anchor caught feveral fifh with hook and line), and found the tide 50 run to the weftward at the rate of two and a half knots per hour. Standing to the Eafl, we found no ground at feventy fathoms, off Point Jackfon N. N. W., two leagues. At eight the next morning, had the found open, Ttefflky* but the wind being down it, obliged us to work up under the weflern fhore, as the tide fets up flrong there, when it runs down in mid channel. At ten, the tide being done, was. 1773- was obliged to come to with the bed bower in thirty-eight u~ pJ1'-j fathoms, clofe to fome white rocks, Point Jackfon bearing Tucfday . ^ , n. ; the northermoft of the Brothers E. by S.; and the middle of Entry Ifland, (which lies on the North fide of the Straits) n. E. Wc made 150 30' E. variation in the Straits. As wc failed up the found we faw the tops of high mountains covered with fnow, which remains all the year. When the tide flackened, we weighed and failed up the Wednef. 7. Sound ; and about five o'clock on the 7th, anchored in Ship Cove, in ten fathoms water, muddy ground, and moored the beft bower to the n. n. E , and fmall to S. S. W. In the night, we heard the howling of dogs, and people hallooing on the Eaft more. The two following days were employed in clearing a place on Motuara Ifland for creeling our tents for the fick (having then feveral on board much afflicted with the fcurvy), the fail-makers and coopers. On the top of the ifland was a poit erected, by the Endeavour's people, with her name and time of departure on it. Friday 9. ^n the 9th, wc were vifited by three canoes with about fixteen of the natives ; and to induce them to bring us fifli and other provifions, we gave them feveral things, with which they feemed highly pleafcd. One of our young gentlemen feeing fomething wrapt up in a better manner than common, had the curioiity to examine what it was ; and to his great furprife found it to be the head of a man lately killed. They were very apprehcnfive of its being forced from them ; and particularly the man who feemed moil interefted in n, whofe very flefh crept on his bones, for fear of being punifhed by us, as Captain Cook had exprcfled his great abhorrence of this unnatural act. They ufed every method to conceal the 4 head, ifting it from one to another ; and by figns en- MM. deavouring to convince us, that there was no fuch thing amongft them, though we had feen it but a few minutes Fnday9' before. They then took their leave of us, and went on more. They frequently mentioned Tupia, which was the name of the native of George's Ifland (or Otaheite), brought here by the Endeavour, and who died at Batavia; and when we told them he was dead, fome of them feemed to be very much concerned, and, as well as we could underftand them, wanted to know whether we killed him, or if he died a natural death. By thefe queftions, they are the fame tribe Captain Cook faw. In the afternoon, they returned again with fifli, and fern roots, which they fold for nails, and other trifles; though the nails arc what they fet the moft value on. The man and woman who had the head, did not come off again. Having a catalogue of words in their language, we called feveral things by name, which furprifed them greatly. They wanted it much, and offered a great quantity of fifh for it. Next morning, they returned again, to the number of Saturday 10. fifty or fixty, with their chief at their head, (as we fuppofed) in five double canoes. They gave us their implements of war, ftone hatchets, and clothes, &c. for nails and old bottles, which they put a great value on. A number of the head men came on board us, and it was with fome difficulty we got them out of the fhip by fair means; but on the appearance of a mufquet with a fixed bayonet, they all went into their canoes very quickly. We were daily vifited by more or lefs, who brought us fifh in great plenty for nails, beads, and other trifles, and behaved very peaceably. We 1773* April. «-i——/ Saturday io. May. Tueiday i!, Monday 17. We fettled the aflronomer with his inftruments, and a fufficient guard, on a fmall ifland, that is joined to Motu-araat low water, called the Hippa, where there was an old fortified town that the natives had forfaken. Their houfes ferved our people to live in j and, by finking them about a foot infide, we made them very comfortable. Having done this, we ftruck our tents on the Motuara, and having removed the fhip farther into the cove, on the Weft fhore, moored her for the winter. We then creeled our tents near the river or watering-place, and fent afhore all the fpars and lumber off the decks, that they might be caulked ; and gave her a winter coat to prefcrve the hull and rigging. On the nth of May, we felt two fevere fhocks of an earthquake, but received no kind of damage. On the 17th we were furprifed by the people firing guns on the Hippa, and having fent the boat, as foon as fhe opened the found, had the pleafure of feeing the Refolution off the mouth of it. We immediately fent out the boats to her affiflance to tow her in,.it being calm. In the evening fhe anchored about a mile without us ; and next morning weighed and warped within us. Both fhips felt uncommon joy at our meeting, after an abfence of fourteen weeks. CHAP. CHAP VIII. Tranfaclions in ^ueen Charlottes Sound, with feme Remarks on the Inhabitants. "\7* N OWING that fcurvy-grafs, celery, and other vege- 1773 X%*. tables were to be found in this found, I went myfelf the morning after my arrival, at day-break, to look for WedncC fome, and returned on board at breakfafl with a boat load. Being now fatisficd, that enough was to be got for the crews of both fhips, I gave orders that they fhould be boiled, with wheat and portable broth, every morning for breakfafl; and with peafe and broth for dinner; knowing from experience, that thefe vegetables, thus dreffed, are extremely beneficial, in removing all manner of fcorbutic complaints. I have already mentioned a defire I had of vifiting Van Diemen's Land, in order to inform myfelf if it made a part of New Holland; and I certainly fhould have done this, had the winds proved favourable. But as Captain Furneaux had, now, in a great meafurc, cleared up that point, I could have no bufinefs there; and therefore came to a refolution to continue our refearches to the Eaft between the latitudes of 41° and 460. I acquainted Captain Furneaux therewith, and ordered him to get his fhip in rcadinefs to put to fea as foon as poflible. In the morning of the 20th, I fent afhore, to the watering- Th«"% place near the Adventure's tent, the only ewe and ram remaining, of thofe which I brought from the Cape of Good Hope with an intent to leave in this country. Soon after I R vifited 7*. vifited the feveral gardens Captain Furneaux had caufed to i_—> be made and planted with various articles; all of which were in a flourifhing ftate, and, if attended to by the natives, Friday n. may prove of great utility to them. The next day, I fet fome men to work to make a garden on Long Ifland, which I planted with garden feeds, roots, Sec. Satuid>y22. On the 23d in the morning, the ewe and ram, I had with fo much care and trouble brought to this place, were both found dead ; occafioned, as was fuppofed, by eating fome poifonous plant. Thus my hopes of flocking this country with a breed of fheep, were blafled in a moment. About noon, we were vifited, for the firft time fince 1 arrived, by fome of the natives, who dined with us; and it was not a little they devoured. In the evening, they were diriniffed with prefents. Monday 24. Early in the morning of the 24th, I fent Mr. Gilbert the mafler to found about the rock we had difcovered in the entrance of the found. Myfelf, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forfler, went in a boat to the Weft bay on a fhooting party. In our way, wc met a large canoe in which were fourteen or fifteen people. One of the firft queflions they alked, was for Tupia, the perfon I brought from Otaheite on my former voyage ; and they feemed to exprefs fome concern, when we told them he was dead. Thefe people made the fame enquiry of Captain Furneaux when he firft arrived; and, on my return to the fhip in the evening, I was told that a canoe had been along-fide, the people in which feemed to be ftrangers, and who alfo enquired for Tupia. Late in the evening Mr. Gilbert returned, having founded all round the rock, which he found to be very fmall and flecp. » Nothing Nothing worthy of notice happened till the 29th, when W3- feveral of the natives made us a vifit, and brought with 1__ them a quantity of fifh, which they exchanged for nails, Saturday*9 &c. One of thefe people I took over to Motuara, and fhewed him fome potatoes planted there by Mr. Fanncn Mailer of the Adventure. There feemed to be no doubt of their fuc-ceeding; and the man was fo well pleafed with them, that he, of his own accord, began to hoe the earth up abput the plants. We next took him to the other gardens, and fhewed him the turnips, carrots, and parfnips; roots which, together with the potatoes, will be of more real ufe to them than all the other articles we had planted. It was eafy to give them an idea of thefe roots, by comparing them with fuch as they knew. Two or three families of thefe people now took up their abode near us, employing themfelves daily in fifhing, and fnpplying us with the fruits of their labour ; the good effects of which we foon felt. For we were, by no means, fuch expert rimers as they are; nor were any of our methods of fifhing equal to theirs. On the 2d of Tune, the mips being nearly ready to put to „r June' * n r Wednef. 2, fea, I fent on fhore, on the Eafl fide of the found, two goats, male and female. The former was fomething more than a year old ; but the latter, was much older. She had two fine kids, fome time before we arrived in Dufky Bay, which were killed by cold, as hath been already mentioned. Captain Furneaux alfo put on fhore, in Cannibal Cove, a boar and two breeding fows ; fo that we have reafon to hope this country will, in time, be flocked with thefe animals, if they are not dcflroyed by the natives before they become wild; for, afterwards, they will be in no danger. But as the R 2 natives *J7JJ« natives knew nothing of their being left behind, it may be '-.—-> fome time before they are difcovered. Wednefday 1. J In our excurfion to the Eaft, we met with the largeft feal I had ever feen. It was fwiming on the furface of the water, and fuilcrcd us to come near enough to fire at it; but without effect: for, after a chafe of near an hour, we were obliged to leave it. By the fize of this animal, it probably was a fea lionefs. It certainly bore much refemblance to the drawing in Lord Anfon's voyage; our feeing a fea lion when we entered this found, in my former voyage, in-creafeth the probability ; and I am of opinion, they have their abode on fome of the rocks, which lie in the ftrait, or off Admiralty Bay. Thurfiayj. On the 3d, I fent a boat with the carpenter over to the Eaft fide of the found, to cut down fome fpars which we were in want of. As fhe was returning, flic was chafed by a large double canoe full of people ; but with what intent, is not Friday 4. known. Early the next morning, fome of our friends brought us a large fupply of fifli. One of them agreed to go away with us ; but, afterwards, that is when it came to the point, he changed his mind; as did fome others who had promifed to go with the Adventure. It was even faid, that fome of them offered their children to fale. I, however, found that this was a miftakc. The report firft took its rife on board the Adventure, where they were utter ftrangers to their language and cuftoms. It was very common for thefe people to bring their children with them, and prefent them to us, in expectation that we would make them prefents; this happened to me the preceding morning. A man brought his fon, a boy about nine or ten years of age, and prefented him to me. As the report of *• felling felling their children was then current, I thought, at firft, that he wanted me to buy the boy. But, at laft, I found that he wanted me to give him a white fliirt, which I accordingly did. The boy was fo fond of his new drefs that he went all over the fhip, prefcnting himfelf before every one that came in his way. This freedom ufed by him, offended Old Will the ram goat, who gave him a butt with his horns, and knocked him backward on the deck. Will would have repeated his blow, had not fome of the people come to the boy's afliftance. The misfortune, however, feemed to him irreparable. The fhirt was dirtied, and he was afraid to appear in the cabbin before his father, untill brought in by Mr. Forfter ; when he told a very lamentable ftory againfl: Gourey the great dog (for fo they call all the quadrupeds we had aboard), nor could he be reconciled, till his fliirt was waflicd and dried. This ftory, though extremely trifling in itfclf, will fhew how liable we are to miftake thefe people's meaning, and to afcribe to them cuftoms they never knew even in thought. About nine o'clock, a large double canoe, in which were twenty or thirty people, appeared in fight. Our friends on board feemed much alarmed, telling us that thefe were their enemies. Two of them, the one with a fpcar, and the other with a ftone hatchet in his hand, mounted the arm chefts on the poop, and there, in a kind of bravado, bid thofe enemies defiance; while the others, who were on board, took to their canoe and went a-fhore, probably to fecure the women and children. All I could do, I could not prevail on the two that remained to call thefe ftrangers along-fide j on the contrary, they were difplcafed at my doing it, and wanted me to fire upon them. them. The people in the canoe feemed to pay very little regard to thofe on board, but kept advancing flowly towards the fhip, and, after performing the ufual ceremonies, put along-fide. After this the chief was eafily prevailed upon to come on board, followed by many others, and peace was immediately eftablifhed on all fides. Indeed, it did not appear to me that thefe people had any intention to make War upon their brethren. At lead, if they had, they were fcn-fible enough to knowT, that this was neither the time nor place for them to commit hoflilities. One of the firft qucftions thefe ftrangers afked, was for Tupia; and when I told them he was dead, one or two ex-prclfed their forrow by a kind of lamentation, which to me appeared more formal than real. A trade foon commenced between our people and them. It was not poflible to hinder the former from felling the cloaths from off their backs for the mereft trifles, things that were neither ufeful nor curious. This caufed me to difmifs the ftrangers fooner than I would have done. When they departed, they went over to Motuara, where, by the help of our glafles, we difcovered four or five canoes, and feveral people on the fhore. This induced me to go over in my Ixxit, accompanied by Mr. Forfter and one of the officers. We were well received by the chief and the whole tribe, which confifted of between ninety and a hundred perfons, men, women, and children, having with them fix canoes, and all their utenfds ; which made it probable that they were come to refide in this found. But this is only conjecture: for it is very common for them, when they even go but a little way, to carry their whole property with them; every place being alike, if it affords them the neceffary fubfiftencc ; fo that it can hardly be fa id 3 they they are ever from home. Thus we may eafily account for the emigration of thofe few families we found in Dufky Bay. Living thus difperfed in fmall parties, knowing no head but the chief of the family or tribe, whofe authority may be very little, they feel many inconveniencies, to which well regulated focicties, united under one head or any other form of government, are not fubject. Thefe form laws and regulations for their general good ; they are not alarmed at the appearance of every flranger; and, if attacked or invaded by a public enemy, have flrong holds to retire to, where they can, with advantage, defend themfelves, their property, and their country. This feems to be the flate of mofl of the inhabitants of Eahci-nomauwe; whereas, thofe of Tavai-poenammoo, by living a wandering life in fmall parties, are deftitute of moll of thefe advantages, which fubjecTs them to perpetual alarms. We generally found them upon their guard, travelling and working, as it were, with their arms in their hands. Even the women are not exempted from bearing arms, as appeared by the firfl interview I had with ihe family in Dufky Bay; where each of the two women was armed with a fpear, not lefs than 18 feet in length. I was led into thefe reflections, by not being able to recollect the face of any one perfon I had feen here three years ago. Nor did it once appear, that any one of them had the leafl knowledge of me, or of any perfon with me that was here at that time. It is, therefore, highly probable, that the greatefl part of the people which inhabited this found in the beginning of the year 1770, have been fince driven out of it, or have, of their own accord, removed fome- 1773- fomewhcre clfc. Certain it is, that not one third of the <—-v-' inhabitants were here now, that were then. Their uroiis* Friday 4, « hold on the point of Motuara hath been long deferted; and we found many forfaken habitations in all parts of the found. We are not, however, wholly to infer from this, that this place hath been once very populous; for each family may, for their own convenience, when they move from place to place, have more huts than one or two. It may be afked, if thefe people had never feen the Endeavour, nor any of her crew, how could they become acquainted with the name of Tupia, or have in their poiTeflion (which many of them had) fuch articles, as they could only have got from that fhip? To this it may be anfwered, that the name of Tupia, was fo popular among them when the Endeavour was here, that it would be no wonder if, at this time, it was known over great part of New Zealand, and as familiar to thofe who never faw him, as to thofe who did. Had fhips, of any other nation whatever, arrived here, they would have equally enquired of them for Tupia. By the fame way of reafoning, many of the articles left here by the Endeavour, may be now in pofTefTion of thofe who never faw her. I got from one of the people, now prefent, an car ornament, made of glafs very well formed and polilhcd. The glafs they muft have got from the Endeavour. After palling about an hour on Motuara with thefe people, and having diftributcd among them fome prcfents, and fhewed to the chief the gardens we had made, I returned on board, and fpent the remainder of our Royal Mailer's birth-day in feftivity ; having the company of Captain Fur-neaux and all his officers. Double allowance enabled the feamen to fliare in the general joy. Both Both fhips being now ready for fea, I gave Captain Furneaux an account in writing of the route I intended to "take ; which was to proceed to the Eaft, between the latitudes of 410 and 46° South, until I arrived in the longitude of 140 0 or 135° Welt; then, provided no land was difcovered, to proceed to Otaheite; from thence back to this place, by the fhorteft route; and after taking in wood and water, to proceed to the South, and explore all the unknown parts of the fea between the meridian of New Zealand and Cape Horn. Therefore, in cafe of fcparation before wc reached Otaheite, I appointed that ifland for the place of rendezvous, where he was to wait till the 20th of Auguft: If not joined by me before that time, he was then to make the belt of his way back to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where he was to wait until the 20th of November: "After which (if not joined by me) he was to put to fea, and carry into execution their Lord/hips in ft ructions. Some may think it an extraordinary ftep in me to proceed on difcoveries as far South as 46 degrees of latitude, in the very depth of winter. But though it muft be owned, that winter is by no means favourable for difcoveries, it never-thelcfs appeared to me neceffary that fomething fhould be done in it, in order to leffen the work I was upon; left I fhould not be able to finifh the difcovery of the fouthern part of the South Pacific Ocean the enfuing fummer. Befides, if I fhould difcover any land in my route to the Eaft, I mould be ready to begin, with the fummer, to explore it. Setting afide all thefe confjderations, I had little to fear; having two good mips well provided, and healthy crews. Where then could I fpend my time better? If I did nothing more, I was at leaft in hopes of being able to point out S to 1773- to pofterity, that thefe feas may be navigated, and that it is June, . . « _» practicable to go on difcoveries, even in the very depth of winter. During our Ray in the Sound, I had obferved that this fecond vifit made to this country, had not mended the morals of the natives of either fex. I had always looked upon the females of New Zealand to be more chafle than the generality of Indian women. Whatever favours a few of them might have granted to the people in the Endeavour, it was generally done in a private manner, and the men did not feem to intereft themfelves much in it. But now, 1 was told, they were the chief promoters of a fhameful traffic, and that, for a fpike nail, or any other thing they value, they would oblige the women to proftitute themfelves, whether they would or no; and even without any regard to that privacy, which decency required. During our Ray here Mr. Wales loR no opportunity to obferve equal altitudes of the fun, for obtaining the rates of the watches. The refult of his labours proved that Mr. KendaPs, was gaining 9", 5 per day, and Mr. Arnold's, lofmg 94", 158 per day, on mean time. C II A P. CHAP. IX. Route from New Zealand to Otaheite, with an Account of fome low Iflands, fuppofed to be the fame that were feen by M* de Bougainville. ON the 7th of June, at four in the morning, the wind being more favourable, we unmoored, and at feven weighed and put to fea, with the Adventure in company. Monday We had no fooner got out of the found, than we found the wind at South; fo that we had to ply through the Straits. About noon the tide of ebb fctting out in our favour, made our boards advantageous; fo that, at five o'clock in the evening, Cape Pallifer, on the Ifland of Eahei-nomauwe, bore S. S. E. * S. and Cape Koamaroo, or the S. E. point of the found, N. by W. * W.; prefently after it fell calm j and the tide of flood now making againft us, carried us, at a great rate, back to the North. A little before high-water, the calm was fucceeded by a breeze from'the North, which foon increafed to a brink gale. This, together with the ebb, carried us, by eight o'clock the next morning, quite through Tuefday the Strait. Cape Pallifer at this time bore E. N. E. and at noon N. by W. diftant feven leagues. This day at noon, when we attended the winding up of the watches, the fufce of Mr. Arnold's would not turn round; fo that, after feveral unfuccefsful trials, we were obliged to let it go down. After getting clear of the Straits, I directed my courfe S. E. by E. having a gentle gale, but variable, between the S 2 North V_____,---i Twcfday 8 1773- North and Weft. The late S. E. winds having caufed a fwell from the fame quarter, which did not go down for fome days, we had little hopes of meeting with land in that direction. We, however, continued to fteer to the S. E., and on Friday n. IItn* cron"c^ me meridian of 1800, and got into the Weft longitude, according to my way of reckoning. Wtdnef. 16. On the 16th, at feven in the morning, the wind having veered round to S. E., we tacked and ftrctched to N. E.; being, at this time, in the latitude of 470 7', longitude 173,° Weft. In this fituation we had a great fwell from N. E. The wind continued at S. E. and S. S. E, blew frefli at intervals; and was attended with fometimcs fair, and at Koaclayio. other times rainy weather, till the 20th; on which day, being in the latitude of 440 30', longitude 1650 45' Weft, the wind fhifted to the Weft, blew a gentle gale, and was attended with fair weather. With this we fleered E. by N., Et Wednef. 23. by S., and E., till the 23d at noon, when, being in the latitude of 440 38' South, longitude 1610 27' Weft, we had a few hours calm. The calm was fucceeded by a wind at Eaft, with which we flood to the North. The wind increafed and blew in fqualls, attended with rain, which at laft brought Timrfday 24. us under our courfes ; and at two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day, we were obliged to lie to, under the fore-fail j having a very hard gale from E. N. E.,. and a great fea from the fame direction. Friday 25. j\t fevcn o'clock in the morning of the 25th, the gale being more moderate, we made fail under the courfes, and in the afternoon fet the top-fails clofe-reefed. At midnight, the wind having veered more to the North, wc tacked and flretched to the S. E.; being, at this time, in the latitude of 420 53' South, longitude 1630 20' Weft. t Wc We continued to flretch to the S. E., with a frefh gale and *jW fair weather, till four o'clock in the afternoon the next day, >—-—4 , Saturday 2 when we flood again to the N. E., till midnight between the 27th and 28th. Then we had a few hours calm; which was fucceeded by faint breezes from the Weft. At this time wc were in the latitude of 42° $2', longitude 1610 15' Weft. The wind remained not long at Weft, before it veered back to the Eafl by the North, and kept between the S. E. and N.. E.;, but never blew flrong. On July 2uV being in the latitude of 43° 3', longitude juiy. 156° 17' Weft, we had again a calm, which brought the n ay 2* wind back to the Weft ; but it was of no longer continuance than before. For, the next day, it returned to the E. and Saturday 3 S. E., blew frefli at times, and by fqualls, with rain. On the 7th, being in the latitude of 410 22', longitude Wednef, 7 *5jtx? 12' Weft, v/c had two hours calm ; in which time Mr. Wales went on board the Adventure to compare the watches; and they w^ere found to agree, allowing for the difference of their rates of going: a probable, if not a certain proof, that they had gone well fince we had been in this fea. The calm was fucceeded by a wind from the South; between which point and the N. W., it continued for the fix fucceeding days, but never blew flrong. It was, however, attended with a great hollow fwell from S. W. and Weft; a fure indication that no large land was near in thofe directions. We now fleered Eaft inclining to the South, and on the 10th, in Saturday 10 the latitude of 430 39', longitude 1440 43' Weft, the variation was found, by feveral azimuths, to be no more than 30 E ; but the next morning, it was found to be 40 5' 30" j and, in the afternoon, 50 56' E. The fame day, at noon, we were in the latitude of 430 44', longitude 141° 56' Weft. At J773- July. Monday 12 A VOYAGE TOWARDS THE SOUTH POLE, At nine o'clock in the morning of the 12th, the longitude ~> was obferved as follows, viz. Self - -Ditto - -Mr. Wales Mr. Wales Mr. Clerke Mr. Gilbert Mean iff fet 2d fet ift fet 2d fet 139 47 15 140 7 30 141 22 15 140 10 o 140 56 45 140 2 o - 140 24 17 i. Weft. Tucfday 13. This differed from my reckoning only 2°~. The next morning, in the latitude of 430 3', longitude 1390 20' Weft, we had feveral lunar obfervations, which were confonant to thofe made the day before, allowing for the fhip's run in the time. In the afternoon, we had, for a few hours, variable light airs next to a calm; after which we got a wind from the N. E., blowing frefh and in fqualls, attended with dark gloomy weather, and fome rain. Wednef. 14. We ftretched to the S. E. till five o'clock in the afternoon on the /4th ; at which time, being in the latitude of 430 15', longitude 1370 39' Weft, we tacked and flood to the North under our courfes; having a very hard gale with heavy Thurfday 15. fqualls, attended with rain, till near noon the next day, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 420 39', longitude 137° 58' Weft. In the evening, the calm was fucceeded by a breeze from S. W., which foon after increafed to a frefh gale; and fixing at S. S, W., with it we fleered N. E. 4 E. In the latitude of 410 2/, longitude 1350 58' Weft; we faw floating in the fea a billet of wood, which feemed to be covered with barnacles; fo that there was no judging, how long it might have been there, or from whence or how far it had come. We We continued to fleer N. E. ■* E., before a very ftrong gale J773- which blew in fqualls, attended with fhowers of rain and \___— hail, and a very high fea from the fame quarter, till noon, Thurfday ls' on the 17th. Being then in the latitude of 390 44', longitude Saturday 17. 133Q 32' Well, which was a degree and a half farther Eaft than I had intended to run; nearly in the middle between my track to the North in 1769, and the return to the South in the fame year, (as will appear by the chart) and feeing no figns of land, I fteered North-eafterly, with a view of exploring that part of the fea lying between the two tracks juft mentioned, down as low as the latitude of 270, a fpace that had not been vifited by any preceding navigator that I knew of. On the 19th, being in the latitude of 360 34', longitude 133? Monday 19.. 7' Weft, we fleered N. £ Weft, having ftill the advantage of a hard gale at South, which the next day veered to S. E. and E., blew hard and by fqualls, attended with rain and thick hazy weather. This continued till the evening of the 21ft, when Wedn«f.a*. the gale abated, the weather cleared up, and the wind backed to the S. and S. E. We were now in the latitude of 320 30', longitude 133° 40' Weft; from this fituation we fleered N. N. W., till noon the next day, when we fleered a point more to the Weft; being Thurfday 22 at this time in the latitude of 310 6', longitude 134° iz' Weft. The weather was now fo warm, that it was neceffary to put on lighter clothes: the mercury in the thermometer at noon rofe to 63. It had never been lower than 46, and feldom higher than 54, at the fame time of the day, fince we left New Zealand. This day was remarkable by our not feeing a fingle bird. Not one had palled, fince we left the land, without feeing fome 1773- July. Thurfday Sunday 25. fome of the following birds, viz. albatroffes, fheerwaters, pintadoes, blue peterels, and Port Egmont hens. But thefe frequent every part of the Southern Ocean in the higher latitudes : not a bird, nor any other thing, was feen, that could induce us to think that we had ever been in the neighbourhood of any land. The wind kept veering round from the South by the Wed to N. N. W., with which we flretched North till noon the next day, when, being in the latitude of 290 22', we tacked and Rretchcd to the weftward. The wind foon increafed to a very hard gale, attended with rain, and blew in fuch heavy fqualls, as to fplit the moft of our fails. This weather continued till the morning of the 25th, when the wind became more moderate, and veered to N. W. and W. N. W., with which we fleered and flretched to N. E., being, at that time, in the latitude of 290 51', longitude 136° 28' Weft. In the afternoon, the fky cleared up, and the weather became fair and fettled. We now met the firft tropic bird we had feen in this fea. Monday z6. On the 26th, in the afternoon, being in the latitude of 28° 44', we had feveral obfervations of the fun and moon, which gave the longitude 1350 30' Weft. My reckoning at the fame time was 1350 27', and I had no occafion to correct it fince I left the land. We continued to flretch to the North, with Tuefday 27. light breezes from the weftward, till noon the next day, when we were flopped by a calm; our latitude at this time, being 270 53', longitude 1350 17' Weft. In the evening, the calm was fucceeded by a breeze from the N. and N. W., with which we plyed to the North. Thurfday 29. On the 29th, I fent on board the Adventure to enquire into the ftate of her crew, having heard that they were fickly j fickly; and this I now found was but too true. Her cook was dead, and about twenty of her bed men were down in the fcurvy and flux. At this time, we had only three men on the fick lift, and only one of them attacked with the fcurvy. Several more, however, began to fhew fymptoms of it, and were, accordingly, put upon the wort, marmalade of carrots, rob of lemons and oranges. I know not how to account for the fcurvy raging more in the one fhip than the other; unlefs it was owing to the crew of the Adventure being more fcorbutic when they arrived in New Zealand than we were, and to their eating few or no vegetables while they lay in Queen Charlotte's Sound, partly for want of knowing the right forts, and partly becaufc it was a new diet, which alone was fuflicient for feamen to reject it. To introduce any new article of food among feamen, let it be ever fo much for their good, requires both the example and authority of a commander ; without both of which, it will be dropt before the people are fenfible of the benefits refulting from it. Were it neceffary, I could name fifty inftanccs in fupport of this remark. Many of my people, officers as well as feamen, at firft difliked celery, fcurvy-grafs, &c. being boiled in the peas and wheat; and fome refufed to eat it. But, as this had no effect on my conduct, this obftinate kind of prejudice, by little and little, wore off; they began to like it as well as the others ; and now, I believe, there was hardly a man in the fhip that did not attribute our being fo free from the fcurvy, to the beer and vegetables we made ufe of at New Zealand. After this, I feldom found it neccfTary to order any of my people to gather vegetables, whenever we came where any were to be got, and if fcarcc, happy was T he he who could lay hold on them firft. I appointed one of my feamen to be cook of the Adventure, and wrote to Captain Furneaux, defiring him to make ufe of every method in his power to flop the fpreading of the difeafe amongft his people, and propofing fuch as I thought might tend towards it. But I afterwards found all this unne-ceffary, as every method had been ufed they could think of. The wind continued in the N. W. quarter, and blew frefli, at times, attended with rain ; with which we flood to the N. E. On the ift of Auguft, at noon, wc were in the latitude of 250 i', longitude J340 6', Weft, and had a great hollow fwell from N. W. The fituation we were now in, was nearly the fame that Captain Carteret affigns for Pitcairn's Ifland, difcovered by him in 1767. We therefore looked well out for it ; but faw nothing. According to the longitude in which he has placed it, we muft have paffed about fifteen leagues to the Weft of it. But as this was uncertain, I did not think it prudent, confidering the fituation of the Adventure's people, to lofe any time in looking for it. A fight of it would, however, have been of ufe in verifying, or correcting, not only the longitude of this ifle, but of the others that Captain Carteret difcovered in this neighbourhood ; his longitude not being confirmed, I think, by aftro-nomical obfervations, and therefore liable to errors, which he could have no method to correct. As we had now got to the northward of Captain Carteret's tracks, all hopes of difcovcring a continent vanished. Iflands were all we were to expect to find, until we returned again to the South. I had now, that is on this and my former voyage, crofted this ocean in the latitude of 40* and upwards, without meeting any thing that did, in 1 the the leafl:, induce me to think I llioufd find what I was in i773- Augui! fearch after. On the contrary, every thing confpircd to «-<— make me believe there is no fouthern continent, between the meridian of America and New Zealand; at leail, this paflage did not produce any indubitable figns of any, as will appear by the following remarks. After leaving the coafls of New Zealand, wc daily faw, floating in the fea, rock-wced, for the fpace of 18° of longitude. In my pallagc to New Zealand in 1769, we alfo faw of this weed, for the fpace of 120 or 14° of longitude before we made the land. The weed is, undoubtedly, the produce of New Zealand; becaufe, the nearer the coaft, the greater quantity you fee. At the greatcft diftance from the coaft, we faw it only in fmall pieces, generally more rotten, and covered with barnacles: an indubitable fign that it had been long at fea. Were it not for this, one might be led to conjecture that fome other large land lay in the neighbourhood; for it cannot be a fmall extent of coaft to produce fuch a quantity of weed, as to cover fo large a fpace of fea. It hath been already mentioned, that we were no fooncr clear of the Straits, than wc met with a large hollow fwell from the S. E., which continued till we arrived in the longitude of 1770 Weft, and latitude 460. There we had large billows from the North and N. E. for five days fucccfftvely, and unril we got 5° of longitude more to the Eaft, although the wind, great part of the time, blew from different directions. This was a ftrong indication that there was no land between us and my track to the Weft in ij6g, After this, we had, as is ufual in all great oceans, large billows from every direction in which the wind blew a frefh gale, but more efpecially from the S. W. Thefe billows never ceafed with the caufe that firft put them in motion ; a furc indication, T 2 that J773- th.it wc were not near any laree land, and that there is no t,—v—j continent to the South, unlefs in a very high latitude. But this was too important a point to be left to 'opinions and conjectures. Facts were to determine it; and thefe could only be obtained by vifiting the fouthern parts; which was to be the work of the enfuing fummer, agreeably to the plan I had laid down. As the winds continued to blow from the N. W. and Weft, we had no other choice but to ftand to the North, inclining more or lefs every day to the Eaft. In the latitude of 21^ M >6. wc faw flying fifh, gannets and egg-birds. On the fixth, I hoiftcd a boat out and fent for Captain Furneaux to dinner; from whom I learnt that his people were much better, the flux having left them ; and the fcurvy was at a ftand. Some cyder which he happened to have, and which he gave to the fcorbutic people, contributed not a little to this happy change. The weather to-day was cloudy, and the wind very unfcttled. This feemed to announce the approach of the fo much wifhed for trade-wind ; which, at eight o'clock in the evening, after two hours calm and fome heavy mowers of rain, we a&ually got at S. E. We Were, at this time, in the latitude of 19° 36' South, longitude 131° 32' Weft. The not meeting with the S. E. trade-wind fooner, is no new thing in this fea. As we had now got it, I directed my courfe to the W. N. W., as well to keep in the flrength of it, as to get to the North, of the iflands difcovered in my former voyage ; that, if any other iflands lay in the way, I might have a chance to difcovcr them. During the daytime we made all the fail we could; but, in the night, either run an eafy fail, or lay to. Wc daily faw flying fifh, alba-cores, dolphins, 8cc.; but neither by ftriking, nor with hook hook and line, could we catch any of them. This required »773-fome art which none of my people were mafte.rs of. i_J^Llr On the nth at day-break, land was feen to the South. Wednef. m. This, upon a nearer approach, we found to be an ifland of about two leagues in extent, in the direction of N. W. and S. E., and clothed with wood, above which the cocoa-nut trees fhewed their lofty heads. 1 judged it to be one of thofe ifles difcovered by Mr. Bougainville. It lies in the latitude of 170 24', longitude 1410 39' Weft; and I called it after the name of the fhip, Refolution Ifland, The fickly Rate of the Adventure's crew made it neceffary for me to make the befl of my way to Otaheite, where I was fure of finding rcfrefhments. Confequently, I did not wait to examine this ifland, which appeared too fmall to fupply our wants, but continued our courfe to the Weft; and, at fix o'clock in the evening, land was feen from the mafl-head, bearing weft by fouth. Probably this was another of Bougainville's difcoveries. I named it Doubtful Ifland; and it lies in the latitude of 170 20', longitude 141° 38' W. I was ferry I could not fparc time to haul to the North of Mr. Bougainville's track; but the getting to a place where we could procure refreshments was more an object at this time than difcovery. During the night we fleered W. by N., in order to pafs the North of the ifland above mentioned. At day-break the next morning, we difcovered land right a-head, diftant Thu&y m about two miles; fo that day-light advifed us of our danger but jufl in time. This proved another of thefe low or half-drowned iflands, or rather a large coral fhoal of about twenty leagues in circuit. A very fmall part of it was land, which confifted of little iftets ranged along the north fide,. and. J773- and connected by Hind banks and breakers. Thefe iflets Augtlll. J I'll y—r1 were clothed with wood, among which the cocoa-nut trees jy 1 ' were only diftinguifhable. We ranged the fouth fide of this iflcorfhoal at the diftance of one or two miles from the coral bank, againft which the fea broke in a dreadful furf. In the middle is a large lake or inland fea, in which was a canoe under fail- This ifland, which I named after Captain Furneaux, lies in the latitude 17° 5', longitude 1430 16' Weft. The fituation is nearly the fame that is affigned for one of thofe difcovered by Bougainville. I muft here obferve, that amongft thefe low and half-drowned ifles (which are numerous in this part of the ocean) Mr. Bougainville's difcoveries cannot be known to that degree of accuracy which is neceffary to diftinguifh them from others. Wc were obliged to have recourfe to his chart for the latitudes and longitudes of the ifles he difcovered, as neither the one nor the other is mentioned in his narjrative. Without waiting to examine this ifland we continued to ftcer to the Weft, all fails fet, till fix o'clock in the evening, when we fhortcned fail to three top-fails, and at nine brought to. FiKlay 13. The next morning at four A. M. we made fail, and at daybreak faw another of thefe low iflands, fitnated in the latitude of 17° 4', longitude 144.0 30' Weft, which obtained the name of Adventure Ifland. M. de Bougainville very properly calls this clufter of low overflowed ifles the Dangerous Archipelago. The fmoothnefs of the fea fufhciently convinced us that wc were furrounded by them, and how neccflary it was to proceed with the utmoft caution, efpe-cially in the night. At At five o'clock P. M. we again faw land, bearing 1773-S. W. by S., which we afterwards found to be Chain Ifland, uJ^' difcovered in my former voyage. But as I was not fure of it at this time, and being dclirous of avoiding the delay which lying by in the night occafioned, I hoifled out the cutter and manned her with an officer and feven men, with orders to keep as far a-hcad of the mips, with a light at her mafl-head, as a fignal could be diftinguifhed, which flic was to make in cafe flie met with any danger. In this manner we continued to run all night; and, at fix o'clock the next morning, Saturday *4 I called her on board and hoifled her in. For it did not appear fire would be wanted again for this purpofe, as we had now a large fwell from the South, a fure fign that we were clear of the low iflands ; therefore I fleered for Otaheite without being apprehenfive of meeting with any danger. CflAP. C II A P. X. The Arrival of the Ships at Otaheite, with an Account of the critical Situation they were in, and of feveral Incidents that happened while they lay in Oaiti-piha Bay. Auguit. /"/\ N the 15'thj at live o'clock in the morning, wc faw Of-toZtoflt? naburg Ifland, or Maitea, difcovered by Captain-V , bearingS. by W. £ W. Soon after I brought to, and waited for the Adventure to come with us, to acquaint Captain Furneaux, that it was my intention to put into Oaiti -piha Bay, near the S. E. end of Otaheite, in order to get what reireih-ments we could from that part of the ifland, before we went down to Matavai. This done, we made fail, and at fix in the evening faw the ifland bearing Weft, Wc continued to ftand on till midnight, when we brought to, till four o'clock in the Monday 16. morning; and then made fail in for the land with a fine breeze at Eaft. At day-break, we found ourfelves not more than half a league from the reef. The breeze now began to fail us, and at laft fell to a calm. This made it neceffary to hoift out our boats to tow the fhips off; but all their efforts were not fufficient to keep them from being carried near the reef. A number of the inhabitants came off in canoes from different parts, bringing with them a little fifh, a few cocoa-nuts, and other fruits, which they exchanged for nails, beads, Sec. The moft of them knew me again ; and many enquired for Mr. Banks and others who were with me before; but not one afked for Tupia. As the calm continued, our fituation be- * came came Rill more dangerous. We were, however, not without hopes of getting round the weflern point of the reef and into the bay, till about two o'clock in the afternoon, when we came before an opening or break in the reef, through which I hoped to get with the fhips. But on fending to examine it, I found there was not a fufficient depth of water; though it caufed fuch an indraught of the tide of flood, through it, as was very near proving fatal to the Refolution; for as foon as the fhips got into this ftream, they were carried with great impetuofity towards the reef. The moment I perceived this, I ordered one of the warping machines, which we had in readinefs, to be carried out with about four hundred fathoms of rope; but it had not theleaft effect. The horrors of fhipwreck now flared us in the face. We were not more than two cables length from the breakers; and yet we could find no bottom to anchor, the only probable means we had left to fave the fhips. We, however, dropped an anchor; but, before it took hold, and brought us up, the fhip was in lefs than three fathoms water, and flruck at every fall of the fea, which broke clofe under our flcrn in a dreadful furf, and threatened us every moment with fhipwreck. The Adventure, very luckily, brought up clofe upon our bow without flriking. We prefently carried out two kedgc anchors, with hawfers to each. Thefe found ground a little without the bower, but in what depth we never knew. By heaving upon them, and cutting away the bowrer anchor, we got the fhip a-float, where we lay fome time in the greatefl anxiety, expecting every minute that either the kedges would come home, or the hawfers be cut in two by the rocks. At length the tide ccafed to act in the fame direction. 1 ordered all the boats to try to tow ollthe Refolution; and when I faw this was U practicable, 1773- practicable, we hove up the two kedges. At that moment, a Auguit. * «-—«—hght air came oil* from the land, which fo much aflifted the boats, that we foon got clear of all danger. Then I ordered all the boats to afFift the Adventure ; but before they reached her, fhe was under fail with the land breeze, and foon after joined us, leaving behind her three anchors, her coafting cable, and two hawfers, which were never recovered. Thus we were once more fafe at fea, after narrowly efcaping being wrecked on the very ifland we, but a few days before, fo ardently wifhed to be at. The calm, after bringing us into this dangerous fituation, very fortunately continued. For had the fea breeze, as is ufual, fet in, the Refolution muft inevitably have been loft, and probably the Adventure too. During the time we were in this critical fituation, a number of the natives were on board and about the fhips. They feemed to be infenfiblc of our danger, mewing not the leafl furprife, joy, or fear, when we were flriking, and left us a little before fun-fct, quite unconcerned. We fpent the night, which proved fqually and rainy* making fhort boards ; and the next morning, being the Tuettay 17. 17th, we anchored in Oaiti-piha Bay in twelve fathoms water, about two cables length from the fhore j both mips being by this time crowded with a great number of the natives, who brought with them cocoa-nuts, plantains, bana-noes, apples, yams, and other roots, which they exchanged for nails and beads. To feveral who called themfelves chiefs, I made prefents of fhirts, axes, and feveral other articles ; and, in return, they promifed to bring me hogs and fowls: a promife they never did, nor ever intended to perform. In In the afternoon I landed, in company with Captain Fur- \fts* neaux, in order to view the watering-place, and to found the yJX~j difpofition of the natives. I alfo fent a boat to get fome wa- Tuef ay,;' ter for prefent ufe, having fcarcely any left onboard. Wc found this article as convenient as could be expected, and the natives to behave with great civility. Early in the morning I fent the two launches, and the w«dnefl. is, Refolution's cutter, under the command of Mr. Gilbert, to endeavour to recover the anchors we had left behind us. They returned, about noon, with the Refolution's bower anchor; but could not recover any of the Adventure's. The natives came off again with fruit, as the day before, but in no great quantity. I alfo had a party on fhore, trading under the protection of a guard. Nothing, however, was brought to market but fruit and roots, though many hogs were feen (I was told) about the houfes of the natives. The cry was that they belonged to Waheatoua the Earee de hi, or King; and him we had not yet feen, nor, I believe, any other chief of note. Many, however, who called themfelves Earees, came on board, partly with a view of getting prefents, and partly to pilfer whatever came in their way. One of this fort of Earees I had, moft of the day, in the cabbin, and made prefents to him and all his friends, which were not a few. At length he was caught taking things which did not belong to him, and handing them out of the quarter gallery. Many complaints of the like nature were made to me againfl thofe on deck j which occafioned my turning them all out of the fhip. My cabbin gueft made good hafte to be gone. I was fo much exafperated at his behaviour, that after he had got fome diftance from the fhip, I fired two mufquets over his head, which made him quit the canoe and take to the water. I then fent a boat :o U 2 take 1773- take up the canoe; but as fhe came near the more, the i—"511 people from thence began to pelt her with flones. Being in wednef. 18. fome pajn for her fafety, as (lie was unarmed, 1 went myfelf in another boat to protect her, and ordered a great gun, loaded with ball, to be fired along the coaft, which made them all retire from the fhore, and I was fuffered to bring away two canoes without the leaft fhew of oppofition. In one of the canoes was a little boy, who was much frightened ; but I foon diflipated his fears, by giving him beads, and putting him on fhore. A few hours after, we were all good friends again ; and the canoes were returned to the firft perfon who came for them. It was not till the evening of this day that any one inquired after Tupia, and then but two or three. As foon as they learnt the caufe of his death, they were quite fatisfied ; indeed, it did not appear to me, that it would have caufed a moment's uncafinefs in the brcaft of any one, had his death been occafioned by any other means than by iicknefs. As little inquiry was made after Aotourou, the man who went away with M. de Bougainville. But they were continually afking for Mr. Banks, and feveral others who were with me in my former voyage. Thefe people informed us, thatToutaha, the regent of the greater Peninfula of Otaheite, had been killed in a battle, which was fought between the two kingdoms about five months before ; and that Otoo was the reigning prince. Tubourai Tamaide, and feveral more of our principal friends about xMatavai, fell in this battle, as alfo a great number of common people; but, at prefent, a peace fub-fifted between the two kingdoms. c' On » On the igth we had eentle breezes eaflerly with fome *?T& fmart Ihowers of rain. Early in the morning, the boats <--M--* were again fent to recover the Adventure's anchors, but re- Tuefday ,9> turned with the fame ill fuccefs as the day before ; fo that we ceafed to look for them any longer, thinking ourfelves very happy in having come off fo well, confidering the fituation we had been in. In an excurfion which Captain Furneaux and I made along the coaft, we met with a chief who entertained us with excellent fifh, fruit, &c. In return for his hofpitality, I made him a prefent of an ax and other things; and he afterwards accompanied us back to the fhips, where he made but a fhort Ray. Nothing worthy of note happened on the 20th, till the Friday 20. dufk of the evening, when one of the natives made off with amufquct belonging to the guard on fhore. I was prefent when this happened, and fent fome of our people after him, which would have been to little purpofe, had not fome of the natives, of their own accord, purfued the thief. They knocked him down, took from him the mufquet, and brought it to us. Fear, on this occafion, certainly operated more with them than principle. They, however, deferve to be applauded for this acl: of juftice ; for, if they had not given their immediate aflillance, it would hardly have been in my power to have recovered the mufquet, by any gentle means whatever; and by making ufe of any other, I was fure to lofe more than ten times its value. The 21R the wind was at North a frefh breeze. This Saturday 21. morning a chief made me a vifit, and prefented me with a quantity of fruit; among which were a number of cocoa-nuts we had drawn the water from, and afterwards thrown overboard. Thefe he had picked up, and tied in bundles fo artfully^ jj7Tk artfully, that we did not at firft perceive the cheat. When «-g-' he was told of it, without betraying the leaft emotion, and, Saturday 21. as it he knew nothing of the matter, he opened two or three of them himfelf, fignified to us that he was fatisficd it was fo, and then went on fhore and fent off a quantity of plantains and bananoes. Having got on board a fupply of water, fruit and roots, I determined to fail in the morning to Matavai, as I found it was not likely that I fhould get an interview with Wahcatou ; without which it was very improbable we fhould get any hogs. Two of the natives, who knew my intention, flept on board, with a view of going .Sunday 22, with us to Matavai; but in the morning the wind blew frefh at N. W.; and, as we could not fail, I fent the trading party on fhore as ufual. In the evening I wras informed that Waheatoua was come into the neighbourhood and wanted to fee me. In confe-quence of this information, I determined to wait one day longer in order to have an interview with this prince. Ac-Monday 22. cordingly, early the next morning, I fet out in company with Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forfter, and feveral of the natives. We met the chief about a mile from the landing-place, towards which he was advancing to meect us; but as foon as he faw us he ftopt, with his numerous train, in the open air. I found him feated upon a ftool, with a circle of people round him, and knew him at firft fight and he me; having feen each other feveral times in 1769. At that time he was but a boy, and went by the name of Tearee,but upon the death of his father Waheatoua, he took upon him that name. After the firft falutation was over, having feated me on the fame ftool with himfelf, and the other gentlemen on 2 the the ground by us, he began to enquire after feveral ^773- by name who were1 with me on my former voyage. <-/-—* He next inquired how long I would flay; and when I told * 1 ' him no longer than next day, he feemed forty, afked me to Ray fome months, and at laft came down to five days; pro. mifing that, in that time, I mould have hogs in plenty. But as I had been here already a week, without fo much as getting one, I could not put any faith in this promife. And yet, I believe, if I had flayed, we fhould have fared much better than at Matavai. The prefent I made him confuted of a fliirt, a fheet, a broad ax, fpike nails, knives, looking-glafTes, medals, beads, &c. In return, he ordered a pretty good hog to be carried to our boat. We flayed with him all the morning, during which time he never fuffered me to go from his fide, where he was feated. I was alfo feated on the fame ftool, which was carried from place to place by one of his attendants, whom we called ftool-bearcr. At length wc took leave, in order to return on board to dinner-after which we vifited him again, and made him more prefents ; and he in return gave Captain Furneaux and me each of us an hog. Some others were got by exchanges at the trading places: fo that we got, in the whole, to day, as much frefli pork as gave the crews of both fhips a meal; and this in confequence of our having this interview with, the chief. The 24th, early in the morning, we put to fea with a Tvm&*Tn+ light land-breeze. Soon after we were out, we got the wind at Weft, which blew in fqualls, attended with heavy fhowcrs of rain. Many canoes accompanied us out to fea with cocoa-nuts, and other fruits; and did not leave us till they had difpofed of their cargoes. The The fruits we got here greatly contributed towards the recovery of the Adventure's lick people. Many of them who had been fo ill as not to be able to move without afllftance, were, in this fhort time, fo far recovered, that they could walk about of themfelves. When we put in here, the Refxr lution had but one fcorbutic man on board, and a marine, who had been long tick, and who died, the fecond day after our arrival, of a complication of diforders without the leaR mixture of the fcurvy. I left Lieutenant Pickerfgil with the cutter behind in the bay, to purchafe hogs; as feveral had promifed to bring fome down to-day, and I was not willing to lofe them. On the 2j-th, about noon, Mr. Pickerfgil returned with eight pigs, which he got at Oaiti-piha. He fpent the night at Ohedea, and was well entertained by Ereti, the chief of that dlfbift. It was remarkable that this chief never once afked after Aotourou; nor did he take the leaft notice, when Mr. Pickerfgil mentioned his name. And yet Mr. de Bougainville tells us, this is the very chief who prefented Aotourou to him; which makes it the more extraordinary that he fhould neither inquire after him now, nor when he was with us at Matavai; cfpecially as they believed that we and Mr. Bougainville came from the fame country ; that is, from Prctane, for fo they called our country. They had not the leaft knowledge of any other European nation ; nor probably will they, unlefs fome of thofe men mould return who had lately gone from the iftc ; of which mention fhall be made by and bye. We told feveral of them, that M. de Bougainville came from France, a name they could by no means pronounce; nor could they pronounce that of Paris much better; fo that it is not likely that they will remember either either the one or the other long. Whereas Preiane is in every *773-child's mouth, and will hardly ever be forgotten. It was <— not till the evening of this day that we arrived in Matavai bay. CHAP XI. An Account of feveral Vifits to and from Otco-, of Goats being left on the If and; and many other Particulars which happened while the Ships lay in Matavai Bay. BEFORE we got to an anchor, our decks were crowded 1773. with the natives ; many of whom I knew, and almoft ^_UfLL* all of them knew me. A great crowd were gotten together Wcdnef* 2s* upon the fhore; amongft whom was Otoo their king, I was juft going to pay him a vifit, when I was told he was ntataow'd, and gone to Oparree. I could not conceive the reafon of his going off in a fright, as every one feemed pleafed to fee me. A chief, whofe name was Maritata, was at this time on board, and advifed me to put off my vifit till the next morning, when he would accompany me; which I accordingly did. After having given directions to pitch tents for the re- Tbarfify *f. ception of the fick, coopers, fail-makers, and the guard, I fet out on the 26th for Oparree ; accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forfter, and others, Maritata and his wife. As foon as we landed, we were conducted to Otoo, whom wc found feated on the ground, under the fhade of a tree, with an immenfe crowd round him. After the firft compliments were over, I prefented him with fuch articles as I gueffed X were *773- were moft valuable in his eyes; well knowing that it was my mtercft to gain the friendfhip of this man. I alfo made Thurfday 26. prefents to fcvcral Gf his attendants; and, in return, they offered me cloth, which I refufed to accept; telling them that what I had given was for tiyo (friendfhip). The king inquired for Tupia, and all the gentlemen that were with me in my former voyage, by name; although I do not remember that he was perfonaliy acquainted with any of us. He promifed that I fhould have fome hogs the next day; but I had much ado to obtain a promife from him to vifit on board. He faid he was, mataou no to poupoue, that is, afraid of the guns. Indeed all his actions fhewed him to be a timorous prince. He was about thirty years of age, fix feet high, and a fine, perfonablc, well-made man as one can fee. All his fubjects appeared uncovered before him, his father not excepted. What is meant by uncovering, is the making bare the head and fhoulders, or wearing no fort of cloathing above the breaft. When I returned from Oparree, I found the tents, and the aftronomer's pbfervatories, fet up, on the fame fpot where we obferved the tranfit of Venus in 17G9. In the afternoon, I had the fkk landed; twenty from the Adventure all ill of the fcurvy; and one from the Refolution. I alfo landed fome marines for a guard, and left the command to Lieutenant Edgcumbe of the marines. Friday 27, On the 27th, early in the morning, Otoo, attended by a numerous train, paid me a vifit. He firft fent into the fhip a large quantity of1 cloth, fruits, a hog, and two large fifh; and, after fome perfuafion, came aboard himfelf, with his lifter, a younger brother, and feveral more of his attendants. To all of them I made prefents; and, after breakfafl, took the i-dwn fnaiiNatute TjrW Hodges Jjhijft-av'd. W J.Hall. T O O K I N G Q F O - T A 11 E II T K . PttMufad fr/'t7 77 Stratum Ms* Street Stwe lane & T&?t$dM£m tte Strand'Zondeti, 4 the king, his fifler, and as many more as I had room for, {773- into my boat, and carried them home to Oparree. I had no i_Ht!lLi fooner landed than I was met by a venerable old lady, the i faying fomething or other about hogs. Wc, at firft, thought he was angry with the king for giving us fo many, efpecial-ly as he took the little pig away with him. The contrary, however, appeared to be the true caufe of his difpleafure; for, prefently after he was gone, a hog, larger than either of the other two, was brought us in lieu of the little one. When we took leave I acquainted him that 1 fhould fail from a, the » P O T A t <) w . 2k6&jfo4 /'W J/'tr W '"'S//„/>,f„. A',-/,' Street, - Bfc* Zone, \- 2&>*t )/,/.>//, /// /6c Mrmmt. Ltvtdm . the ifland the next day ; at which he feemed much moved, and embraced me feveral times. Wc embarked to return on board, and he, with his numerous train, directed their march back to Oparree. The fick being all pretty well recovered, our water-cafks September, repaired, and water completed, as well as the necefTary repairs of the fhips, I determined to put to fea without far- , ther delay. Accordingly, on the iR of September, I ordered Wednef. 3. every thing to be got off from the fhore, and the fhips to be unmoored. On this work we were employed the moR of the day. In the afternoon Mr, Pickerfgill returned from Atta-hourou; to which place I had fent him, two days before, for the hogs he had been promifed. My old friend Pottatou, the chief of that diflricl:, his wife, or miftrefs (I know not which), and fome more of his friends, came along with Mr. Pickerfgill, in order to vifit mc. They brought mc a prefent of two hogs, and fome Hfh ; and Mr. Pickerfgill got two more hogs, by exchange, from Oamo: for he went in the boat as far as Paparra, where he law old Oberca. She feemed much altered for the worfe, poor, and of little con-fequence. The firft words fhe faid to Mr. Pickerfgill were,. Earee mataou inn boa, Earee is frightened, you can have no hogs. By this it appeared that fhe had little or no property, and was herfelf fubject to the Earee; which I believe was not the cafe when I was here before. The wind, which had blown Wefterly all day, having fhifted at once to the Eaft, we put to fea; and I was obliged to difmifs my friends fooncr than they wifhed to go; but well fatisfied with the reception they had met with. Some 1773- Augult. 1773- Some hours before we got under fail, a young man, whofe September. _ ■ 1 j , »—j-' name was Poreo, came and defircd I would take him with Widtie . t. mc j confented, thinking he might be of fervice to us on fome occafion. Many more offered themfelves, but I refufed to take them. This youth afked me for an ax and a fpike nail for his father, who was then on board. He had them accordingly, and they parted jufl as we were getting under fail, more like two ftrangers than father and fon. This raifed a doubt in me whether it was fo; which was farther confirmed by a canoe, conducted by two men, coming along-fide, as we were Handing out of the bay, and demanding the young man in the name of Otoo. I now faw that the whole was a trick to get fomething from me ; well knowing that Otoo was not in the neighbourhood, and could know nothing of the matter. Poreo feemed, however, at firft undetermined whether he fhould go or flay ; but he foon inclined to the former. I told them to return me the ax and nails, and then he fhould go (and fo he really fhould), but they faid they were afliorc, and fo departed. Though the youth feemed pretty well fatisficd, he could not refrain from weeping, when he viewed the land aftern. C H A P. XII. An Account of the Reception we met with at Huaheinc, with the Incidents that happened while the Ships lay there, and of Omai, one of the Natives, coming away in the Adventure. A S foon as wc were clear of the bay, and our boats in, 1773. I directed my courfe for the Ifland of Huaheine, where I intended to touch. We made it the next day, and Thurday fpent the night, making fhort boards under the north end of the ifland. At day-light in the morning of the 3d, we Friday made fail for the harbour of Owharre; in which the Refolution anchored, about nine o'clock, in twenty-four fathoms water. As the wind blew out of the harbour, I chofe to turn in by the fouthern channel, it being the widen. The Refolution turned in very well, but the Adventure, mifRng Rays, got afhorc on the north fide of the channel. I had the Refo-lution's launch in the water ready, in cafe of an accident of this kind, and fent her immediately to the Adventure. By this timely afTiflance, fhe was got off again, without receiving any damage. Several of the natives, by this time, had come off to us, bringing with them fome of the productions of the ifland; and, as foon as the fhips were both in fafety, I landed with Captain Furneaux, and was received by the natives with the utmoft cordiality. 1 diftributed fome prefents among them ; and prefently after, they brought down hogs, fowls, dogs, and fruits, which they willingly exchanged for hatchets, nails, beads, &c. The like trade Y was e 1773- was foon opened on board the mips; fo that we had a fair September. r n • 1 r rt \—,—^ proipect of being plentifully fupplied with frefh pork and fowls; and, to people in our fituation, this was no unwelcome thing. I learnt that my old friend Orce, chief of the ifle, was Rill living, and that he was haftcning to this part to fee mc. Saturday 4. Early next morning, Lieutenant Pickerfgill failed with the cutter, on a trading party, toward the fouth end of the iilc. I alfo fent another tracing party on fhore near the fhips, with which I went myfelf, to fee that it was properly conducted at the firft fetting out, a very neceffary point to he attended to. Every thing being fettled to my mind, I went, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forfter, to pay my firft vifit to Oree, who, I was told, was waiting for me. Wc were conducted to the place by one of the natives ; but were not permitted to go out of our boat, till we had gone through fome part of the following ceremony, ufually performed at this ifle, on fuch like occafions. The boat, in which we were defired to remain, being landed before the chief's houfe, that flood clofe to the fhore, five young plantain trees, which are their emblems of peace, were brought on board feparatcly, and with fome ceremony., Three young pigs ,with their ears ornamented with cocoa-nut fibres, accompanied the firft three; and a dog, the fourth. Each had its particular name, and purpofe, rather too myftcrious for us to underftand. Laftly, the chief fent to mc the infeription engraved on a fmall piece of pewter,, which 1 left with him in July 1769. It was in the fame bag I had made for it, together with a piece of counterfeit Englifh coin, and a few beads, put in at the fame time; which fhews how well he had taken care of the whole. When they they had made an end of putting into the boat the things juft mentioned, our guide, who Rill remained with us, de- v__,—1* fired us tcwdecorate three young plantain trees with looking- Salu-rilay * glaffes, nails, medals, beads, &c. &c. This being accordingly done, we landed with thefe in our hands, and were conducted towards the chief, through the multitude j they making a lane, as it were, for us to pafs through. We were made to fit down a few paces fhort of the chief, and our plantains were then taken from us, and, one by one, laid before him, as the others had been laid before us. One was for Eatoua (or God), the fecond for the Earee (or King), and the third for Ttyo (or Friendfliip). This being done, I wanted to go to the King, but was told that he would come to mc; which he accordingly did, fell upon my neck, and embraced mc. This was by no means ceremonious ; the tears, which trickled plentifully down his venerable old cheeks, fufliciently befpoke the language of his heart. The whole ceremony being over, all his friends were introduced to us, to whom wc made prefents. Mine to the chief confided of the mod valuable articles I had; for I regarded this man as a father. In return he gave me a hog, and a quantity of cloth, promifing that all our wants fhould be fupplied; and it will foon appear how well he kept his word. At length we took leave, and returned onboard ; and, fome time after, Mr. Pickerfgill returned alfo with fourteen hogs. Many more were got by exchanges on more, and along-fidc the fhips ; befides fowls, and fruit in abundance. This good old chief made me a vifit early in the morning on the 5th, together with fome of his friends, bringing mc Sunday 5. a hog and fome fruit, for which I made him a fuitablc return. He carried his kindnefs fo far, as not to fail to fend me every day, for my table, the very bed of ready dreffed Y 2 4 fruit, 1773- fruit, and roots, and in great plenty. Lieutenant Pickerf- Sep'.ember. .11 t_ • • - 7 1 r v.—,-. gill being again fent with the two boats, in iearch of hogs, returned in the evening with twenty-eight; and about four times that number were purchafed on fhore, and along-fide the fhips. Mondays. Next morning the trading party, confiding of only two or three people, were fent on fliore as ufual; and, after breakfafl, I went to the place myfelf, when I learnt that one of the inhabitants had been very troublefome and infolent. This man being pointed out to me, completely equipped in the war habit with a club in each hands, as he feemed bent on mifchief, 1 took thefe from him, broke them before his eyes, and, with fome difficulty, forced him to retire from the place. As they told me that he was a chief, this made me the more fufpicious of him, and occafioned me to fend for a guard, which till now I had thought unncceftary. About this time, Mr. Spearman, having imprudently gone out alone botanizing, was fet upon by two men, who dripped him of every thing he had about him, except his trowfers, Rruck him feveral times with his own hanger, but happily did him no harm. As foon as they had accomplifhed their end, they made off; after which another of the natives brought a piece of cloth to cover him, and conducted him to the trading place, where were a great number of the inhabitants. The very indant Mr. Spearman appeared in the condition I have jud mentioned, they ded to a man with the utmod precipitation. My firft conjectures were, that they had dolen fomething; but we were foon undeceived, when we faw Mr. Spearman, and the affair was related to us. As foon as I could recal a few of the natives, and had made them fenfible that I fhould take no ftep to injure thofe , who who were innocent, I went to Orce to complain of this out- *773 Stptem rage, taking with us the man who came back with Mr. *—~t Spearman, to confirm the complaint. As foon as the chief heard the whole affair related, he wept aloud, as did many others. After the firR tranfpoi ts of his grief were over, he began to expoRulate with his people, telling them (as far as we could underftand) how well I had treated them, both in this and my former voyage, and how bafe it was in them to commit fuch actions. He then took a very minute account of the things Mr. Spearman had been robbed of, promifed to do all in his power to recover them, and rifing up, defircd me to follow him to my boat. When the people faw this, being, as I fuppofed, apprehenfive of his fafety, they ufed every argument to diffuade him from what they, no doubt, thought a rafh ftep. He haftened into the boat, notwith-Randing all they could do or fay. As foon as they faw their beloved chief wholly in my power, they fet up a great outcry. The grief they mewed was inexpreftible; every face was bedewed with tears; they prayed, entreated, nay attempted to pull him out of the boat. I even joined my entreaties to theirs; for I could not bear to fee them in fuch diflrefs. All that could be faid, or done, availed nothing. He infifted on my coming into the boat, which was no fooncr done than he ordered it to be put off. Iiis filler, with a fpirit equal to that of her royal brother, was the only perfon who did not oppofe his going. As his intention in coming into our boat Was to go with us in fearch of the robbers, wc proceeded accordingly as far as it was convenient by water, then landed, entered the country, and travelled fome miles inland, the chief leading the wTay, inquiring of every one he faw. At length he ftepped into a houfe by the road fide, ordered fome cocoa-nuts for us, and after we were a little refrefheds 1773- rcfrcfhcd, wanted to proceed Rill farther. But this I oppofed, September. .... , • 1 i ,-,—$ thinking that wc might be carried to the very fartheft end Monday * of the iiland, after things, the moR of which, before they came into our hands again, might not be worth the bringing home. The chief ufed many arguments to perfuade mc to proceed, telling me that I might fend my boat round to meet us, or that he would get a canoe to bring us home, if I thought it too far to travel. But I was rcfolvcd to return, and he was obliged to comply and return with me, when lie faw 1 would follow him no farther. I only defircd he would fend fomcbody for the things; for I found that the thieves had got fo much ftart of us, that we might follow them to the remote ft parts of the ifle, without fo much as feeing them. Befides, as I intended to fail the next morning, this occafioned a great lofs to us, by putting a Rop to all manner of trade ; for the natives were fo much alarmed, that none came near us, but thofe that were about the chief. It, therefore, became the more neceffary for me to return, to reRore things to their former Rate. When we got back to our boat, we there found Oree's fifler, and feveral more perfons who had travelled by land to the place. We immediately flcpped into the boat in order to return on board, without fo much as afking the chief to accompany us. He, however, infilled on going alfo; and followed us into the boat in fpite of the oppofition and entreaties of thofe about him; his filler followed his example, and the tears and prayers of her daughter, who was about fixiccn or eighteen years of age, bad no weight with her on this oceafion. The chief fat at table with us, and made a hearty dinner; his fifler, according to cuflom, cat nothing. After dinner, I fuiliciently rewarded them for the confidence they had put in AND ROUND THE WORLD. 167 in me ; and. foon after, carried them both on fhore, where „ J773« ' , September. fome hundreds of people waited to receive them, many of <-r—~> , . r ■ i c • Aii Monday 6, whom embraced their chief with tears or joy. All was now joy and peace : the people crowded in, from every part, with hogs, fowls, and fruit, fo that we prefently filled two boats: Oree himfelf prefented me with a large hog and a quantity of fruit. The hanger (the only thing of value Mr. Spearman had loft) with part of his coat, were brought us ; and we were told, we fhould have the others the next day. come of the officers, who were out on a fliooting party, had fome things ftolen from them, which were returned in like manner. Thus ended the troublcfome tranfaclions of this day,, which I have been the more particular in relating, becaufe it fhews what great confidence this brave old chief put in us; it alfo, in fome degree, fhews that friendfihip is facred with them. Oree and I were profeffed friends in all the forms cuftomary among them; and he feemed to think that this could not be broken by the act of any other perfons. Indeed this feemed to be the great argument he made ufe of to his people, when they oppofed his going into my boat. His words were to this effect.—t£ Oree (meaning me, for fo " I was always called) and 1 are friends ; I have done no-" thing to forfeit his friendfhip; why then mould I not go " with him?" Wc,however, may never find another chief who will act in the fame manner under fjmilar circum-Ranccs. It may be aiked, What had he to fear? to which I anfwer, Nothing. For it was not my intention to hurt an hair of his head, or to detain him a moment longer than he defircd. But how was he or the people to know this? They were not ignorant, that, if he was once in my power, the • whole. 1773- whole force of the ifland could not take him from me, and Septemucr. . ^ *--—> that, let my demands for his ranfom have been ever fo high, they mull have complied with them. Thus far their fears, both for his and their own fafety, were founded in reafon. Tuefday 7. On the 7th, early in the morning, while the fhips were unmooring, I went to pay my farewell vifit to Oree, accompanied by Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forfler. We took with us for a prefent, fuch things as were not only valuable, but ufeful. I alfo left with him the infeription plate he had before in keeping, and another fmall copper-plate on which were engraved thefe words, " Anchored here, his Britannic 11 Majefly's fhips Refolution and Adventure, September 1773," together with fome medals, all put up in a bag; of which the chief promifed to take care, and to produce, to the firft fhip or fliips that fliould arrive at the ifland. He then gave me a hog; and, after trading for fix or eight more, and loading the boat with fruit, we took leave, when the good old chief embraced me with tears in his eyes. At this interview, nothing was faid about the remainder of Mr. Spearman's clothes. I judged they were not brought in \ and, for that reafon, did not mention them, left I fliould give the chief pain about things I did not give him time to recover; for this was early in the morning. When we returned to the fliips, wc found them crowded round with canoes full of hogs, fowls, and fruit, as at our firft arrival. I had not been long on board, before Oree himfelf came, to inform me, as wc underftood, that the robbers were taken, and to deflre us to go on fhore, either to punifh, or to fee them punifhed; but this could not be done, as the Refolution was juft under fail, and the Adventure already out of the harbour. The chief flayed on board 1 till \ 76 39^316912331 9$$X till we were a full half league out at fea ; then took a moR x773 , . Septem affectionate leave of mc; and went away in a canoe, con- w—^-' ducted by one man and himfelf; all the others having gone long before. I was forry that it was not convenient for me to go on fhore with him, to fee in what manner thefe people would have been punifhed ; for I am fatisficd, this was what brought him on board. During our fhort (lay at the fmall but fertile ifle of Hua-heine, we procured to both fhips not lcfs than three hundred hogs, befides fowls and fruits; and, had we Rayed longer, might have got many more: for none of thefe articles of refrefhment were feemingly diminifhed, but appeared every where in as great abundance as ever. Before we quitted this ifland Captain Furneaux agreed to receive on board his fhip a young man named Omai, a native of Ulictca, where he had had fome property, of which he had been difpoffeffed by the people of Bolabola. I at firft rather wondered that Captain Furneaux would encumber himfelf with this man, who, in my opinion, was not a proper fam-ple of the inhabitants of thefe happy iflands, not having any advantage of birth, or acquired rank ; nor being eminent in fhapc, figure, or complexion. For their people of the firft rank are much fairer, and ufually better behaved, and more intelligent, than the middling clafs of people, among whom Omai is to be ranked. 1 have, however, fince my arrival in England, been convinced of my error : for excepting his complexion, (which is undoubtedly of a deeper hue than that of the Earees or gentry, who, as in other countries, live a more luxurious life, and are lcfs expofed to the heat of the fun) I much doubt whether any other of the natives would have given more general fa- Z * t is faction 1773- tisfaction by his behaviour among us. Omai has moft cer- Scptcmber. . v_—„-' tainly a very good underftanding, quick parrs, and honeft ««n^7* principles; he has a natural good behaviour, which rendered him acceptable to the beft company, and a proper degree of pride, which taught him to avoid the fociety of perfons of inferior rank. He has paftions of the fame kind as other young men, but has judgment enough not to indulge them in an improper excefs. I do not imagine that he has any diilike to liquor, and if he had fallen into company where the perfon who drank the moft, met with the moft approbation, I have no doubt, but that he would have endeavoured to gain the applaufe of thofe with whom he aftbeiated; but fortunately for him, he perceived that drinking was very little in ufe but among inferior people, and as he was very watchful into the manners and conduct of the perfons of rank who honoured him with their protection, he was fober and modeft, and I never heard that, during the whole time of his flay in England, which was two years, he ever once was difguifed with wine, or ever fhewed an in* clination to go beyond the ftrictcft rules of moderation. Soon after his arrival in London, the Earl of Sandwich, the firft Lord of the Admiralty, introduced him to his Ma-jelly at Kew, when he met with a moft gracious reception, and imbibed the ftrongeft imprcflion of duty and gratitude to that great and amiable prince, which I am perfuaded he will preferve to the lateft moment of his life, During his ftay among us he was carefted by many of the principal nobility, and did nothing to forfeit the cfteem of any one of them ; but his principal patrons were the Earl of Sandwich, Mr. Banks, and Dr. Solander ; the former probably thought it a duty of his office to protect: and countenance an inhabitant tant of that hofpitable country, where the wants and diftreffes r773-of thofe in his department had been alleviated and fupplied in the mofl ample manner j the others, as a teftimony of Taefday 7* their gratitude for the generous reception they had met with during their relidence in his country. It is to be obferved, that though Omai lived in the midft of amufements during his refidence in England, his return to his native country was always in his thoughts, and though he was not impatient to go, he expreffed a fatisfaction as the time of his return approached. He embarked with me in the Refolution, when fhe was fitted out for another voyage, loaded with prefents from his feveral friends, and full of gratitude for the kind reception and treatment he had experienced among us. CHAP. XIII. Arrival at, a?id Departure of the Ships from, Ulietea; with an Account of what happened there, and of Osdidee3 one of the Natives, coming away in the Refolution. rip HE chief was no fooner gone, than we made fail for X Ulietea (where I intended to flop a few days). Arriving off the harbour of Ohamaneno at the clofe of the day, wc fpent the night making fhort boards. It was dark, but we were fufficiently guided by the fifhers lights on the reefs and fhores of the ifles. The next morning, after Wednef. 8. making a few trips, we gained the entrance of the harbour ; and, as the wind blew directly out, I fent a boat to lie in foundings, that we might know when to anchor. As foon as the fignal was made by her, we borrowed clofe to the Z 2 South 1773- South point of the channel; and, with our fails fet, mooting September. , ' # ; - ■ & \.—y—j within the boat, we anchored in feventeen fathoms water. We then carried out anchors and hawfers, to warp in by and, as foon as the Refolution was out of the way, the Adventure came up in like manner, and warped in, by the Refolution. The warping in, arid mooring the fhips, took up the whole day. We were no fooner at anchor at the entrance of the harbour, than the natives crowded round us in their canoes with hogs and fruit. The latter they exchanged for nails and beads; the former we refufed as yet, having already as many on board as we could manage. Several we were, however, obliged to take, as many of the principal people brought off little pigs, pepper, or eavoa-roor, and young plantain trees, and handed them into the fliip, or put them into the boats along-fide, whether we would or no; for if we refufed to take them on board, they would throw them into the boats. In this manner, did thefe good people welcome us to their country. I had forgot to mention, that Tupia was much inquired after at Huaheine; but, at this place, every one afked about him, and the occafion of his death ; and, like true philofo-phers, were perfectly fatisficd with the anfwers we gave them. Indeed, as we had nothing but the truth to tell, the Rory was the fame, by whomfoever told. Thurfday 9. Next morning we paid a formal vifit to Oreo, the chief of this part of the ifle, carrying with us the neceflary prefents. We went through no fort of ceremony at landing., but were, at once, conducted to him. He was feated in his own houfe, which flood near the water-fide, where he and his friends received us with great cordiality. He expreffed * much much Satisfaction at feeing mc again, and defired that we >773- 0 , September. might exchange names, which I accordingly agreed to. I .r believe this is the ftrongeft mark of friendfliip they can lhurfda>c> fhew to a flranger. He inquired after Tupia, and all the gentlemen, by name, who were with me when I firft vifited the ifland. After we had made the chief and his friends the neceflary prefents, we went on board with a hog, and fome fruit, received from him in return; and in the afternoon he gave me another hog, flill larger, without afking for the leaft acknowledgement. Exchanges for fruit, 8cc. were moftly carried on along-fide the fhips. I attempted to trade for thefe articles on fhore; but did not fucceed, as the moft of them were brought in canoes from diftant parts, and carried directly to the fhips. After breakfafl, on the 10th, Captain Furneaux and I paid Friday to* the chief a vifit; and we were entertained by him with fuch a comedy, or dramatic heava, as is generally acted in thefe ifles. The mufic confifted of three drums; the actors were feven men, and one woman, the chief's daughter. The only entertaining part in the drama, was a theft committed by a man and his accomplice, in fuch a mafterly manner, as fufliciently difplayed the genius of the people in this vice. —The theft is difcovered before the thief has time to carry off his prize ; then a fcuffle enfues with thofe fet to guard it, who, though four to two, are beat off the ftage, and the thief and his accomplices bear away their plunder in triumph. I was very attentive to the whole of this part, being in full expectation that it would have ended very differently. For I had before been informed that Tcto, (that is, the Thief) was to be acted, and had underftood that the theft was to be punifhed with death, or a good tiparrahying (or beating), a punifb- 1773- punifhment, we are told, they inflict on fuch as arc guilty September. - , . ' . n B 7 -1 of this crime. Be this as it may, ltrangers are certainly V l0t excluded from the protection of this law? them they rob, with impunity, on every occafion that offers. After the play was over, we returned on board to dinner; and in the cool of the evening, took a walk on fhore, where we learnt from one of the natives, that nine fmall iflands, two of which were uninhabited, lay to the weftward, at no great diftance from hence. Saturday u. On the nth, early in the morning, I had a vifit from Oreo and his fon, a youth about twelve years of age. The latter brought me a hog, and fome fruit; for which I made him a prefent of an axe, and drefTed him in a fliirt, and other things, which made him not a little proud of himfelf. Having flayed fome hours, they went on fhore; as I alfo did foon after, but to another part. The chief hearing I was on fiiore, came to the place where he found the boat, into which he put a hog, and a quantity of fruit, without faying a word to any body, and, with fome of his friends, came on board, and dined with us. After dinner I had a vifit from Oo-oorou, the principal chief of the ifle. He was introduced to us by Oreo, and brought with him, as a prefent, a large hog, for which I made him a handfome return. Oreo employed himfelf in buying hogs for mc (for we now began to take of them), and he made fuch bargains as I had reafon to be fatisfied with. At length they all took leave, after Sunday 12. making me promife to vifit them next morning; which I accordingly did, in company with feveral of the ofRcers and gentlemen. Oreo ordered an heava to be acted for our entertainment, in which two very pretty young women were the actreilcs. This heava was fomcwhat different from the one one I faw before, and not fo entertaining. Oreo, after it was o !773- ' September. over, accompanied us on board, together with two of his <—^-—* friends. The following day was fpent much in the fame manner ; Monday i> and early in the morning of the 14th, I fent Mr. Pickerfgil, Taefday ^ with the Refolution's launch, and Adventure's cutter, to Ocaha, to procure an additional fupply of bananoes, and plantains, for a fea-Rore; for we could get little more of thefe articles at Ulietea than were fufficient for prefent con-fumptiom Oreo, and fome of his friends, paid me a pretty early vifit this morning. I acquainted the chief that I would dine with him, and defired he would order two pigs to be dreffed after their manner, which he accordingly did ; and, about one o'clock, I, and the officers and gentlemen of both fliips, went to partake of them. When we came to the chief's houfe, we found the cloth laid; that is, green leaves were Rrewed thick on the floor. Round them we feated ourfelves; prefently one of the pigs came over my head fouce upon the leaves, and immediately after the other; both fo hot as hardly to be touched. The table was garnifhed round with hot bread-fruit, and plantains, and a quantity of cocoa-nuts brought for drink. Each man being ready, with his knife in his hand, we turned to without ceremony; and it muft be owned, in favour of their cookery, that victuals were never cleaner, nor better dreffed. For, though the pigs were ferved up whole, and the one weighed between fifty and fixty pounds, and the other about half as much; yet all the parts were equally well done, and eat much fweeter than if dreffed in any of our methods. The chief and-his fon, and fome other of his male friends, eat with us, and pieces were handed to others who fat behind: for we had. 2 a vafi a vaft crowd about us ; fo that it might be truly faid we dined in public. The chief never failed to drink his glafs of Madeira whenever it came to his turn, not only now, but at all other times when he dined with us, without ever being once affected by it. As foon as we had dined, the boat's crew took the remainder; and by them, and thofe about them? the whole was confumed. When we rofe up, many of the common people rufhed in, to pick up the crumbs which had fallen, and for which they fearchcd the leaves very narrowly. This leads me to believe that, though there is plenty of pork at thefe ifles, but little falls to their fliare. Some of our gentlemen being prefent when thefe pigs were killed and dreffed, obferved the chief to divide the entrails, lard, &c. into ten or twelve equal parts, and ferve it out to certain people. Several daily attended the fliips, and a Hi fled the butchers, for the fake of the entrails of the hogs wc killed. Probably little elfe falls to the fhare of the common people. It, however, muft be owned, that they are exceedingly careful of every kind of provifion, and wafle nothing that can be eaten by man j flefh and fifh efpecially. In the afternoon we were entertained with a play. Plays, indeed, had been acted almoft every day fince we had been here, either to entertain us, or for their own amufement, or perhaps both. Next morning produced fome circumftances which fully prove the timorous difpofition of thefe people. We were furprifed to find that none of them came off to the fliips as ufual. Two men belonging to the Adventure having flayed on more all night, contrary to orders, my firft conjectures were, that the natives had ftripped them, and were now afraid to come near us, left we fliould take fome ftep to revenge the infult: AND ROUND THE WORLD. i infult: but, in order to be better fatisficd; Captain Furneaux *T73* , i p i*i r Sepiemb< and I went afhore to Oreos houie, which we found quite n_™. empty; he and all his family gone, and the whole neigh- Wiidndii> bourhood, in a manner, quite defertcd. The two men belonging to the Adventure made their appearance, and informed us that they had been very civilly treated by the natives; but could give no account of the caufe of their precipitate flight. All that we could learn, from the very few who durfl come near us, was, that feveral were killed, others wounded, by our guns, pointing out to us where the balls went in and out of the body, &c. This relation gave me a good deal of uneafinefs for the fafety of our people gone to Otaha, fearing that fome diflurbance had happened at that ifland. However, in order to be better informed, I determined, if pofli-ble, to fee the chief himfelf. Accordingly we embarked in our boat, having one of the natives with us, and rowed along-fhorc to the northward, the way we were told he was gone. We foon came in fight of the canoe in which he was; but before we could come up with her he had got on fhore. Wc landed prefently after, and found he was gone ftill farther. An immenfe crowd, however, waited our landing, who entreated me to follow him. One man offered to carry mc on his back ; but the whole flory appearing rather more myfte-rious than ever, and being all unarmed, I did not chufe to feparate myfelf from the boat, but embarked again, and rowed after him. We foon came before the place where our guide told us he was, and put in the boat accordingly. It grounded at fome diftance from the fhore, where we were met by a venerable old lady, wife to the chief. She threw hcrfclf into my arms, and wept bitterly, infomuch that it was not poffiblc to get one plain word from her. With this old lady in my hand I went afhorc, contrary to the advice of A a my 1773- my young man from Otaheite, who feemed more afraid than September. , '-j-' any or us, probably believing every word the people had told Wednefd. 15. ^ j founcj ^ chief feated under the fhade of a houfe, before which was a large area, and furrounded by a vaR number of people. As foon as I came to him, he threw his arms about mc, and burft into tears ; in which he was accompanied by all the women, and fome of the men, fo that the lamentation became general. Aftonifhment alone kept me from joining with them. It was fome time before I could get a word from any one; at laft, all my enquiries gave me no other information, than that they were alarmed on account of our boats being abfent; thinking that the people in them had deferted from us, and that I fhould take fome violent means to recover them. For when we afTured them that the boats would return back, they feemed cheerful and fatisfied, and, to a man, denied that any one was hurt, either of their own or our people ; and fo it afterwards proved. Nor did it appear that there was the leaft foundation for thefe alarms; nor could we ever find out by what means this general confternation firft took its rife. After a flay of about an hour, I returned on board 1 three of the natives coming along with us, who proclaimed the peace as we rowed along fhore, to all they faw. Thus matters were again reftored to their former footing; ori j 1 . ^ ^^^^ morning they came off to the fliips, as ufual,— After breakfafl Captain Furneaux and I paid the chief a vifit. We found him at his own houfe perfectly eafy; infomuch that he, and fome of his friends, came on board, and dined with us. I was now told that my Otaheitean young man Poreo, had taken a refolution to leave me. I have juft mentioned before, his being with us when I followed Oreo, and his his advifinrr mc not to £0 on fhore. He was fo much afraid, J773« 0 0 Septemb.r. at that time, that he remained in the boat till he heard all ——» matters were reconciled. Then he came out; and, prefent- Thurfda> lS ly after, met with a young woman, for whom he had contracted a friendfhip. Having my powder-horn in keeping, he came and gave it to one of my people who was by mc, and then went away with her, and I faw him no more. In the afternoon our boats returned from Otaha, pretty well laden with plantains; an article we were moR in want of. They made the circuit of the ifland, conducted by one of the Earees, whofe name was Boba, and were hofpitably entertained by the people; who provided them with victuals and lodging. The firft night they woe entertained with a play ; the fecond night, their repofe was difturbed by the natives ftealing their military cheft: this put them on making reprifals, by which means they recovered the moR of what they had loft. Having now got on board a large fupply of refreshments, Friday i7, I determined to put to fea the next morning, and made the fame known to the chief, who promifed to fee me again before we departed. At four o'clock we began to unmoor; and, as foon as it was light, Oreo, his fon, and fome of his friends, came on board. Many canoes alfo came off with fruit and hogs; the latter they even begged of us to take from them, calling out Tiyo boa atoi—l am your friend, take my hog, and give me an ax. But our decks were already fo full of them, that we could hardly move ; having, on board both fhips, between three and four hundred. By the increase of our flock, together with what we had faked and con fumed, 1 judge that we got at this ifland 400, or upwards. Many, indeed, were only roafters ; others again weighed one A a 2 hundred hundred pounds, or upwards; but the general run was from forty to fixty. It is not cafy to fay how many we might have got, could we have found room for all that were offered us. The chief, and his friends, did not leave me till we were under fail; and, before he went away, preffed me much to know if I would not return, and when ? Questions which were daily put to me by many of thefe iflanders. My Ota-heitean youth's leaving me proved of no confequence; as many young men, of this iiland, voluntarily offered to come away with us. I thought proper to take on board one, who was about 17 or 18 years of age, named Ocdidee, a native of Bola-bola, and a near relation of the great Opoony, chief of that ifland. Soon after we were out of the harbour, and had made fail, wc obferved a canoe following us, conducted by two men. Whereupon I brought to; and they prefently came along-fidc, having brought me a prefent of roafled fruit, and roots, from Oreo. I made them a proper return before I difmiffed them, and then fet fail to the Weft, with the Adventure in company. Kny'rav'.l l>v\V.\V;ilis. xr i.in. 9897288^28807941^4607622739826 99999999999999184 85756782 CHAP. XIV. ^fe Account of a Spanifi Ship vifting Otaheite; the prefent State of the Ifands; with fome Obfervations on the Difeafes and Cufioms of the Inhabitants, and fome Mif-takes concerning the Women correcJed. T SHALL now give fome farther account of thefe iflands; 1773. 0 t September A for, although I have been pretty minute in relating the ^—» daily tranfaclions, fome things, which are rather intercfting> have been omitted. Soon after our arrival at Otaheite, we were informed that a fliip, about the fize of the Refolution, had been in at Owhaiurua harbour near the S. E. end of the ifland, where fhe remained about three weeks ; and had been gone about th'rce months before we arrived. We were told that four of the natives were gone away in her, whofe names were Dc-hedebea—Paoodou—Tanadooee—and Opahiah. At this time, we conjectured this was a French fhip * but, on our arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, we learnt flic was a Spaniard, which had been fent out from America. The Otaheiteans complained of a difeafe communicated to them by the people in this fhip, which they faid affected the head, throat, and Romach, and at length killed them. They feemed to dread it much, and were continually inquiring if we had it. This fliip they diftinguifhed by the name of Pahai no Pep-pc (fhip of Peppe), and called the difeafe Apa no Pep-pe, juR as they call the venereal difeafe Jpa no Pretane (Englifh difeafe). >773; difeafe), though they, to a man, fay it was brought to the September. • n , , '—-v——* me by M. de Bougainville ; but I have already obferved that they thought M. Bougainville came from Pretane, as well as every other fhip which has touched at the ifle. Were it not for this aflertion of the natives, and none of Captain Wallis's people being affected with the venereal difeafe, either while they were at Otaheite, or after they left it, I fliould have^concluded that, long before thefe inlanders were vifited by Europeans, this, or fome difeafe which is near a kin to it, had exifted amongft them. For I have heard them fpeak of people dying of a diforder which we interpreted to be the pox, before that period. Rut be this as it will, it is now far lefs common amongft them, than it was in the year 1769, when I firft vifited thefe ifles. They fay they can cure it; and fo it fully appears. For, notwithfland-ingmoft of my people made pretty free with the women, very few of them were afterwards affected with the diforder, and thofe who were, had it in fo flight a manner, that it was eafily removed. But amongft the natives, whenever it turns to a pox, they tell us it is incurable. Some of our people pretend to have feen fome of them who had this laft diforder in a high degree; but the Surgeon, who made it his bufi-nefs to inquire, could never fatisfy himfelf in this point. Thefe people arc, and wrerc before Europeans vifited them, very fubject to fcrophulous difeafes; fo that a fcaman might eafily miftake one diforder for another. The ifland of Otaheite which, in the years 1767 and 1768, as it were, fwarmed with hogs and fowls, was now fo ill fupplied with thefe animals, that hardly any thing could induce the owners to part with them. The few they had, at this time,, among them, feemed to be at the difpofal of the kings. kings. For while we lay at Oaiti-piha Bay, in the kingdom of Tiarrabou, or lefler Peninfula, every hog or fowl we faw, we were told, belonged to Wahcatooa; and all we faw in the kingdom of Opoureonu, or the greater Peninfula, belonged to Otoo. During the feventeen days we were at this ifland, we got but twenty-four hogs ; the half of which came from the two kings themfelves; and, I believe, the other half were fold us by their permiffion or order. We were, however, abundantly fupplied with all the fruits the ifland produces; except bread-fruit, which was notinfeafon either at this or the other ifles. Cocoa-nuts and plantains were what we got the moR of; the latter, together with a few yams and other roots, were to us a fuccedaneum for bread. At Otaheite we got great plenty of apples, and a fruit like a nectarine, called by them Aheeya. This fruit was common to all the ifles; but apples we got only at Otaheite, and found them of infinite ufe to the fcorbutic people. Of all the feeds that have been brought to thefe iflands by Europeans, none have fucceeded but pumpkins; and thefe they do not like ; which is not to be wondered at.. The fcarcity of hogs at Otaheite may be owing to two caufes; firft, the number which have been confumed, and carried off by the fhipping which have touched here of late years; and fecondly, to the frequent wars between the two kingdoms. We know of two fince the year 1767; at prefent a peace fubfifts between them; though they do not feem to entertain much fricndfhip for each other. I never could learn the caufe of the late war, nor who got the better in the conflict. In the battle, which pur an end to the difpute, many were killed on both fides. On the part of Opoureonu, fell Toutaha, and feveral other chiefs, who 2 were t 1773- were mentioned to me by name. Toutaha lies interred in September. # . . —* the family Afarrt/ at Oparree; and his mother, and feveral other women who were of his houfehold, are now taken care of by Otoo the reigning prince—a man, who, at firft, did not appear to us to much advantage. I know but little of Waheatooa of Tiarrabou. This prince, who is not above twenty years of age, appeared with all the gravity of a man of fifty. His fubjecls do not uncover before him, or pay him any outward obeifance as is done to Otoo; neverthelefs, they fcem to (hew him full as much refpect, and he appeared in rather more ftatc. He was attended by a few middle-aged, or elderly men, who feemed to be his counfellors-This is what appeared to me to be the then ftate of Otaheite. The other iflands, that is, Huaheine, Ulietea, and Otaha, were in a more flourifliing ftate than they were when I was there before. Since that time, they had enjoyed the blefling of peace; the people fecmed to be as happy as any under heaven ; and well they may, for they poiTefs not only the neceffaries, but many of the luxuries of life in the greateft profufion ; and my young man told me that hogs, fowls, and fruits arc in equal plenty at Bola-bola, a thing which Tupia would never allow. To clear up this feeming con-trad iction, I muft obfervc, that the one was prejudiced againft, and the other in favour of, this ifle. The produce of the iflands, the manners and cufloms of the natives, &c. having been treated at large in the narrative of my former voyage, it will be unneceffary to take notice of thefe fubjedrs in this, unlefs where I can add new matte*, or clear up any miflakes which may have been committed. As I had fome reafon to believe, that amongft their religious cufioms, human facrifices were fomctimes confidered A TOUPAPOW WITH A COllpsK ON IT N"xliy B.A AND ROUND THE WORLD. 185 as neceflary, I went one day to a Mar aim Matavai, in company J773- . , « . / • • -u r 1 1 /, September. with Captain Furneaux; having with us, as I had upon all u—v—' other occafions, one of my men who fpoke their language tolerably well, and feveral of the natives, one of whom appeared to bean intelligent, fenfible man. In the Marat was a Tupapo-w, on which lay a corpfe and fome viands; fo that every thing promifed fuccefs to my inquiries. I began with alking queftions relating to the feveral objects before me, if the plantains, &c. were for the Eatua ? If they facrificed to the Eatua, hogs, dogs, fowls, &c. to all of which he an-fwered in the affirmative. I then afked, If they facrificed men to the Eatua? he anfwered, Taata eno ; that is, bad men they did, firft Tiparrahy, or beating them till they were dead. I then afked him, If good men were put to death in this manner? his anfwer was, No, only Taata eno. I afked him, If any Earees were I he faid, they had hogs to give to the Eatua, and again repeated Taaio eno. I next afked him, If To the wind blew from N. W., attended with thunder, light-ning, and rain ; having a large fwell from S. S. E. and S., which kept up for feveral days. An indication that no land was near us in that direction. TWfday 23. On the 23d, at ten o'clock in the morning, land was feen from the top-maft head, and at noon from the deck, extending from S. by W. to S. W. by S. We hauled up for it with the wind at S. E., and found it to confiit of two or three fmall illots, connected together by breakers like moR of the low ifles in the fea, lying in a triangular form, and about fix leagues in circuit. They were clothed with wood, among which were many cocoa-nut trees. We faw no people, or figns of inhabitants j and had reafon to think there were none. The fituation of this ifle, which is in the latitude of 190 18' South, longitude 1580 54 WeR, is not very different from that afligned by Mr. Dalrymple to La Dezena. But as this is a point not eafily determined, I named it Hervey's Ifland, in honour of the Honourable Captain Hervcy of the Navy, one of the Lords of the Admiralty, and now Earl of BriftoL As the landing on this ifle, if practicable, would have caufed a delay which I could ill fparc at this time, we re. Saturday 25. fumcd our courfe to the Weft ; and on the 25th we again began to ufe our fea-bifcuit, the fruit which had ferved as a fucccdaneum being all confumed j but our ftock of frefli pork ftill continued, each man having as much every day as was needful. In our route to the Weft we now and then faw men of war, and tropic birds, and a fmall fea bird, which is feldom feen but near the fhores of the ifles j we therefore conjectured that we had palled fome land at no great '/' fituation was moR delightful. In front was the fea, and the fhips at anchor; behind, and on each fide, were plantations, in which were fome of the richefl productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which we were feated, and the people feated themfelves in a circle round us on the out-fide. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played s and, in return, the chief directed three young women to fing a fong, which they did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a prefent, this immediately fet all the women in the circle a fmging. Their fongs were mufical and harmonious, and noways harih or difagrccable. After fitting here fome time, we were, at our own rcqueft, conducted into one of the adjoining plantations, where the chief had another houfe, into which we were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts, were fet before us to eat, and a bowl of liquor prepared in our prefence of the juice of cava for us to drink. Pieces of the root were firft offered to us to chew ; but as we excufed ourfelves from aflifting in the operation, this was performed by others. When fufticiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as foon as it was properly ftrained for drinking, they made cups by folding of green leaves, which held near half a pint, and prefented to each of us one of thefe fiiled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tailed it; the manner of brewing it having quenched the thirft of every one elfe. The bowl was, however, foon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook. I obferved that they never filled the fame cup twice; nor did two perfons drink out of the fame \ each had a frefli cup and frefli liquor. C c This J773- This houfe was fituated at one corner of the plantation, i-,-' and had an area before it on which we were feated. The " ',y ' whole was planted round with, fruit and other trees, whofe fprcading branches afforded an agreeable made, and whofc fragrance difTufcd a pleafmg odour through the air. Before wc had well viewed the plantation it was noon, and we returned on board to dinner, with the chief in our company. He fat at table, but eat nothing, which, as we had frefli pork roafled, was a little extraordinary. After dinner we landed again, and were received by the crowd as before. Mr. Forfter with his botanical party, and fome of the officers and gentlemen, walked into the country. Captain Furneaux and myfelf were conducted to the chief's houfe, where fruit and fome greens, which had been fte wed, were fet before us*to eat. As we had but juft dined, it cannot be fuppofed we eat much; but Oedidec, and Omai, the man on board the Adventure, did honour to the feaft. After this we fignified our defire of feeing the country. Tioony very readily af-fented, and conducted us through feveral plantations, which were laid out with great judgment, and inclofed with very neat fences made of reeds. They were all in very good order, and well planted with various fruit-trees, roots, 8cc. The chief took fome pains to let us know the moft of them belonged to himfelf. Near fome of the houfes, and in the lanes that divided the plantations, were running about fome hogs and very large fowls, which were the only do-mcftic animals we faw; and thefe they did not feem willing to part with. Nor did any one, during the whole day, offer in exchange any fruit, or roots, worth mentioning; which determined me to leave this ifland, and to vifit that of Amfterdam. The The evening brought every one on board, highly de- lighted with the country, and the very obliging behaviour <-,--f of the inhabitants; who feemed to vie with each other SaturdafZ' in doing what they thought would give us pleafure. The fhips were crowded with people the whole day, trafficking with thofe on board, in which the greateR good order was obferved ; and I was forry that the feafon of the year would not admit of my making a longer Ray with them. Early the next morning, while the fliips were getting under s^^y 3. fail, I went afhore with Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forfter, to take leave of the chief. He met us at the landing-place, and would have conducted us to his houfe, had wc not ex-cufed ourfelves. We therefore were feated 011 the grafs, where we fpent about half an hour in the midR of a vaft crowd of people. After making the chief a prefent, confift-ing of various articles, and an aflbrtment of garden feeds, I gave him to underfland that we were going away, at which he feemed not at all moved. He, and two or three more, came into our boat, in order to accompany us on board; but feeing the Refolution under fail, he called to a canoe to put along-fide, into which he and his friends went, and returned on fhore. While he remained in our boat, he continued to exchange fifh-hooks for nails, and cngrofTed the trade in a manner wholly to himfelf; but, when on fhore, I never faw him make the leaft exchange. C c 2 CHAP. CHAP. It 7'he Arrival of the Ships at Amflerdam\ a Defer iption of a Place of Worfhip ; and an Account of the Incidents which happened while they remained at that Ifland* A S foon as Iwas on board, we made fail down to Ara- oftokr. jl jl Rerdam. The people of this ifle were fo little afraid * ii i f , Sunday j. of us, that fome met us in three canoes about midway between the two ifles. They ufed their utmoR efforts to get on board, but without effect, as we did not fhorten fail for them, and the rope which we gave them broke. They then attempted to board the Adventure, and met with the fame difappointment. We ran along the S. W. coaR of Amfter-dam at half a mile from fhore, on which the fea broke in a great furf. We had an opportunity, by the help of our glaffes, to view the face of the ifland, every part of which feemed to be laid out in plantations. We obferved the natives running along the fhore, difplaying fmall white flags, which we took for enfigns of peace, and anfwered them by hoifling a St. George's enfign. Three men belonging to Middleburg, who, by fome means or other, had been left on board the Adventure, now left her, and fwam to the fhore; not knowing that we intended to flop at this ifle, and having no inclination, as may be fuppofed, to go away with us. As foon as wc opened the wefl fide of the ifle, wc were met by feveral canoes, each conducted by three or four men. They came boldly along-fide, prefented us with fome Eava root, and then came on board, without farther ceremony, inviting /•'u/7<;>/icdFelr?/?/?7?h- WTStrahah to A'cw Street Shoe l*mk r/u>:'Im tttr StrandZomt>■>< inviting us, by all the friendly figns they could make, to go qIQ to their ifland, and pointing to the place where wc fliould 1-^-1 anchor; at leaft fo we underftood them. After a few boards Sunday 3> we anchored in Van Diemen's Road, in eighteen fathoms water, little more than a cable's length from the breakers which line the coaft. We carried out the coafting anchor and cable to feaward, to keep the fhip from tailing on the rocks, in cafe of a fhift of wind or a calm. This laft anchor lay in forty-feven fathoms water; fo fteepwas the bank on which we anchored. By this time we were crowded with people; fome came off in canoes, and others ,fwam; but, like thofe of the other ifle, brought nothing with them but cloth, matting, &c. for which the feamen only bartered away their cloaths. As it was probable they would foon feel the effects of this kind of traffic, with a view to put a flop to it, and to obtain the neceflary refrefhments, I gave orders that no fort of curiofities fliould be purchafed by any perfon whatever. The good effect: of this order was found in the morning. Monday ^ For when the natives faw we would purchafe nothing but eatables, they brought off bananoes and cocoa-nuts in abundance, fome fowls and pigs ; all of which they exchanged for fmall nails and pieces of cloth:, even old rags, of any fort was enough for a pig,, or a fowl. Matters being thus cftablifhed, and proper perfons appointed to trade under the direction of the officers to prevent difputcs, after breakfafl I landed, accompanied by Captain Furneaux, Mr. Forfler, and feveral of the officers;, having along with us a chief, or perfon of fome note, whofc name was Attago, who had attached himfelf to me, from-the firft moment of his coming on board, which was before we anchored, I know not how he came to difcovcr that I was> 1773* was the commander; but, certain it is, he was not lone on *—„—-t deck before he fingled me out from all the other gentlemen, Monday, j^^jjjg me a prefent 0f fome clotli, and other things he had about him: and, as a greater teRimony of friendfhip, we now exchanged names; a cuftom which is practifed at Otaheite, and the Society Ifles. We were lucky, or rather we may thank the natives, for having anchored before a narrow creek in the rocks which line the more. To this creek we were conducted by my friend Attago; and there we landed dry on the beach, and within the breakers, in the face of a vaft crowd of people, who received us in the fame friendly manner that thofe of Middleburg had done. As foon as we were landed, all the gentlemen fet out into the country, accompanied by fome of the natives. But the moft of them remained with Captain Furneaux and me, who amufed ourfelves fome time in diftributing prefents amongft them; efpecially to fuch as Attago pointed out; which were not many, but who, I afterwards found, were of fuperior rank to himfelf. At this time, however, he feemed to be the principal perfon, and to be obeyed as fuch. After we had fpent fome time on the beach, as we complained of the heat, Attago immediately conducted and feated us under the fhadc of a tree, ordering the people to form a circle round us. This they did, and never once attempted to pufh them-felves upon us like the Otahciteans. After fitting here fome time, and diftributing fome prefents to thofe about us, we fignified our defire to fee the country. The chief immediately took the hint, and conducted us along a lane that led to an open green, on the one fide of which was a houfe of worfhip built on a mount that had been raifed by the hand of man, about fixteen or 3 eighteen AND ROUND THE WORLD. 199 eighteen feet above the common level. It had an oblong J773- r 11 n Odober. figure, and was inclofed by a wall or parapet or Rone, about 1-,-* three feet in height. From this wall the mount rofe with ■* *' a gentle flope, and was covered with a green turf. On the top of it Rood the houfe, which had the fame figure as the mount, about twenty feet in length and fourteen or fixtcen broad. As foon as we came before the place, every one feated himfelf on the green, about fifty or fixty yards from the front of the houfe. Prefently came three elderly men ; who feated themfelves between us and it, and began a fpeech, which I undcrflood to be a prayer, it being wholly directed to the houfe. This lafted about ten minutes; and then the pricfts, for fuch I took them to be, came and fat down along with us, when we made them prefents of fuch things as were about us. Having then made figns to them that we wanted to view the premifes, my friend Attago immediately got up, and going with us, without mewing the leaft backwardnefs, gave us full liberty to examine every part of it. In the front were two (tone fteps leading to the top of the wall ; from this the afcent to the houfe was eafy, round wdiich was a line gravel walk. The houfe was built, in all refpects, like to their common dwelling-houfes; that is, with polls and rafters ; and covered with palm thatch. The eaves came down within about three feet of the ground, which fpace was filled up with flrong matting made of palm leaves as a wall. The floor of the houfe was laid with fine gravel j except in the middle, where there was an oblong fquare of blue pebbles, faffed about fix inches higher than the floor. At one corner of the houfe flood an image rudely carved in wood, and on one fide lay another ; each about two feet r/73- feet in length. T, who had no intention to offend either October. ° <-> them or their gods, did not fo much as touch them, but Monday 4. n -p. aiked Attago, as well as I could, if they were Eatuas or gods. Whether he underflood mc or no I cannot fay; but he immediately turned them over and over, in as rough a manner as he would have done any other log of wood, which convinced me that they were not there as re prefent at ives of the Divinity. I was curious to know if the dead were interred there, and aiked Attago feveral queftions relative thereto; but I was not fure that he underftood me ; at leaft I did not underftand the anfwers he made, well enough to fatisfy my inquiries. For the reader muft know that, at our firft coming among thefe people, wc hardly could underftand a word they faid. Even my Otahcitean youth, and the man on board the Adventure, were equally at a lofs: but more of this by and bye. Before we quitted the houfe we thought it neceffary to make an offering at the altar. Accordingly we laid down upon the blue pebbles, fome medals, nails, and feveral other things; which we had no fooner done than my friend Attago took them up, and put them in his pocket. The ftones with which the walls were made that inclofed this mount, were fome of them nine or ten feet by four, and about fix inches thick. It is difficult to conceive how they can cut fuch ftones out of the coral rocks. This mount flood in a kind of grove open only on the fide which fronted the high road, and the green on which the people were feated. At this green or open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to be very public ones. The groves were compofed of feveral forts of trees. Among others was the Eton tree, as it is called at Otaheite, of which are made clubs, &c. and a kind of low 1 palm, AFIA- TOO - CA, A BURTWG PLACE IN THE ISLE OF AMSTERDAM . 7373 -O \ $ palm, which is very common in the northern parts of New I77> 1 „ 3 1 Oaober. Holland. \___ After we had done examining this place of worfhip, which in their language is called A-fm-tou-ca, we defired to return; but, inftead of conducting us to the water-fide, as we expected, they Rruck into a road leading into the country. This road, which was about fixteen feet broad, and as level as a bowling-green, feemed to be a very public one ; there being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclofed on each fide, with neat fences made of reeds, and fliaded from the fcorching fun by fruit trees, I thought I was tranfported into the moR fertile plains in Europe. There was not an inch of wafle ground; the roads occupied no more fpace than was abfolutely neceffary; the fences did not take up above four inches each ; and even this was not wholly loR, for in many were planted fome ufeful trees or plants. It was every where the fame j change of place altered not the fcene. Nature, affifled by a little art, no where appears in more fplendor than at this ifle. In thefe delightful walks we met numbers of people; fome travelling down to the fhips with their burdens of fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road by turning either to the right or left, and fitting down, or Randing, with their backs to the fences, till we had paffed. At feveral of the crofs roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were generally Afintoucas, fuch as already de-feribed; with this difference, the mounts were pallifadoed round, inflead of a Rone wall. At length, after walking feveral miles, we came to one larger than common; near to which was a large houfe belonging to an old chief in our D d company- oaober company. At this houfe we were defired to Hop, which we ;-^-1> accordingly did, and were treated with fruit, &c. Saturday 21. ° J 9 We were no fooner feated in the houfe, than the eldeft of the prieRs began a fpeech or prayer, which was firft directed to the Afiatouca, and then to me, and alternately. When he addrefled me, he paufed at every fentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not underftand one fingle word he faid. At times, the old gentleman feemed to be at a lofs what to fay ; or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he was prompted by one of the other priefts who fat by him. Both during this prayer and the former one, the people were filent, but not attentive. At this laft place we made but a fhort ftay. Our guides conducted us down to our boat, and we returned with Attago to our fhip to dinner. We had no fooner got on board, than an old gentleman came along-fide, who, I underftood from Attago, was fome king or great man. He was, accordingly, ufhered on board; when I prefented him with fuch things as he moft valued (being the only method to make him my friend) and feated him at table to dinner. We now faw that he was a man of confequcncc; for Attago would not fit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table ; and, a& the old chief was almoft blind, he fat there, and eat with his back towards him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fifh and drank two glafles of wine, he returned afhore. As foon as Attago had feen him out of the fhip, he came and took his place at table, finifhed his dinner, and drank two glaffes of wine. When dinner was over, we all went afhore, where wc found the old chief, who prefented me with a hog; and he and fome others,, took a walk with us into the country. Before Before we fet out, I happened to go down with Attago ■J773- 1 n/i 1 . 7 Oftober. to the landing-place, and there found Mr. Wales in a laugh- \—s—~> able, though diftrefted fituation. The boats which brought us on fhore, not being able to get near the landing-place for want of a fufficient depth of water; he pulled off his fhoes and Rockings to walk through, and as foon as he got on dry land, he put them down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were inflantly matched away by a perfon behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was impoffible for him to follow the man bare-footed over the lharp coral rocks, which compofe the fhore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat was put back to the fliip, his companions had each made his way through the crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago foon found out the thief, recovered his fhoes and Rockings, and let him at liberty. Our route into the country, was by the firft mentioned Ajiatouca, before which we again feated ourfelves, but had no prayers although the old prieft was with us. Our flay here was but fhort. The old chief probably thinking that we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and fhewed us a pool of frefli water, though we had not made the leaft enquiry after any, I believe this to be the fame that Tafman calls the waJIAng-pIace for the king and his nobles. From hence wc were conducted down to the fhore of Maria bay, or N. E. fide of the ifle; where, in a boat-houfe, was fhewn to us a fine large double canoe not yet launched. The old chief did not fail to make us fcnfible it belonged to himfelf. Night now approaching, we took leave of him, and returned on board, being conducted by Attago down to the water-fide. D d 2 Mr. Mr. Forfter and his party fpent the day in the country bo-tanifing; and feveral of the officers were out mooting. All of them were very civilly treated by the natives. We had alfo a brifk trade for bananoes, cocoa-nuts, yams, pigs, and fowls; all of which were procured for nails, and pieces of cloth. A boat from each fhip was employed trading aihore, and bringing off their cargoes as foon as they were laden, which was generally in a fhort time, By this method we got cheaper, and with lefs trouble, a good quantity of fruit, as well as other refrefhments, from people who had no canoes to carry them off to the ftiips. Pretty early in the morning on the 5th, my friend brought me a hog and fome fruit for which I gave him a hatchet, a fhcct, and fome red cloth. The pinnace was fent aihore to trade as ufual; but foon returned. The officer informed me that the natives were for taking every thing out of the boat, and, in other refpccTs, were very troublefome. The day before, they ftole the grapling at the time the boat was riding by it, and carried it off undifcovered. I now judged it neceffary to have a guard on fhore, to protect the boats and people whofe bufinefs required their being there ; and accordingly fent the marines, under the command of Lieutenant Edgcumbe. Soon after, I went myfelf, with my friend Attago, Captain Furneaux, and feveral of the gentlemen. At landing, we found the old chief who prefented me with a pig. After this, Captain Furneaux and I took a walk into the country, with Mr. Hodges, to make drawings of fuch places and things as were moft interefting. When this was done wc returned on board to dinner, with my friend and two other chiefs ; one of which fent a hog on board the Adventure for Captain Furneaux, fome hours before, without out ftipulatine for any return. The only mftance of this »773 kind.—My friend took care to put me in mind of the pig the —-— old king gave me in the morning; for which I now gave a Tuefda>r chequed fliirt and a piece of red cloth. I had tied them up for him to carry afhore ; but with this he was not fatisfied. He wanted to have them put on him; which was no fooner done, than he went on deck, and fhewed himfelf to all his countrymen. He had done the fame thing in the morning with the fheet I gave him. In the evening we all went on fhore again, where we found the old king, who took to himfelf every thing my friend and the others had got. The different trading parties were fo fuccefsful to-day as to procure for both fhips a tolerably good fupply of refrelh-ments. In confequence of which, I, the next morning, gave every one leave to purchafe what curiofities and other things they pleafed. After this, it was aftonifhing to fee with what eagernefs every one caught at every thing he faw. It even went fo far as to become the ridicule of the natives, who offered pieces of Ricks and Rones to exchange. One waggifh boy took a piece of human excrement on the end of a Rick, and held it out to every one he met with. This day, a man got into the mailer's cabin, through the outfide fcuttle, and took out fome books and other things. He was difcovered juft as he was getting out into his canoe, and purfued by one of our boats, which obliged him to quit the canoe and take to the water. The people in the boat made feveral attempts to lay hold on him; but he, as often, dived under the boat, and at laft having unfhipped the rudder, which rendered her ungovernable, by this means he got clear off. Some other very daring thefts were 5 committed 1773- committed at the landing-place. One fellow took a fea- t^—v-1 man's jacket out of the boat, and carried it off, m fpite of all that our people in her could do. Till he was both purfued and fired at by them, he would not part with it; nor would he have done it then, had not his landing been intercepted by fome of us who were on fhore. The reft of the natives, who were very numerous, took very little notice of the whole tranfaclion; nor were they the leaft alarmed when the man was fired at. Wednef. 6. My friend Attago having vifited me again next morning, as ufual, brought with him a hog, and afiifled mc in pur-chafing feveral more. Afterwards we went afhore; vifited the old king, with whom we ftaid till noon ; then returned on board to dinner, with Attago, who never once left me. Intending to fail the next morning, I made up a prefent for the old king, and carried it on fhore in the evening. As foon as I landed, I was told by the officers who were on ihore, that a far greater man than any we had yet feen was come to pay us a vifit. Mr. Pickerfgill informed me that he had feen him in the country, and found that he was a man of fome confequence, by the extraordinary refpect paid him by the people. Some, when they approached him, fell on their faces, and put their head between their feet; and no one durft pafs him without permiffion. Mr. Pickerfgill, and another of the gentlemen, took hold of his arms, and conducted him down to the landing-place, where I found him feated with fo much fullcn and ftupid gravity, that notwithftanding what had been told mc, I really took him for an ideot, whom the people, from fome fuperftitious notions, were ready to worfhip. I faluted and fpoke to him ; but he neither anfwered, nor took the leaft notice of me ; nor did he alter a fingle feature in his countenance. This 3 confirmed confirmed me in my opinion, and I was juft going to leave Q^3^ him, when one of the natives, an intelligent youth, under- "j^r-f Wedueld. w» took to undeceive me; which he did in fuch a manner as left me no room to doubt that he was the king, or principal man on the ifland. Accordingly I made him the prefent I intended for the old chief, which confifled of a fliirt, an ax, a piece of red cloth, a looking-glafs, fome nails, medals, and beads. He received thefe things, or rather fufFered them to be put upon him, and laid down by him, without lofing a bit of his gravity, fpeaking one word, or turning his head either to the right or left; fitting the whole time like a Ratue ; in which fituation I left him, to return on board; and he foon after retired. I had not been long on board before word was brought me that a quantity of provifions had come from this chief. A boat was fent to bring it from the fhore ; and it confifled of about twenty bafkets of roafted bananoes, four bread and yams, and a roafied pig of about twenty pounds weight. Mr. Edgcumbe and his party were juft reimbarking, when thefe were brought to the water-fide, and the bearers faid it was a prefent from the Areeke,. that is the king of the ifland, to the Areeke of the fhip. After this I was no longer to doubt the dignity of this fullen chief. Early in the morning of the 7th, while the fliips were un- Thurfday jk mooring, I went afhore with Captain Furneaux and Mr. Forfter, in order to make fome return to the king for his laft night's prefent. We no fooner landed than we found Attago, of whom we inquired for the king, whofe name was Kohaghee-too Fallangou. He accordingly undertook to conduct; us to him; but, whether he miftook the man we wanted, or was ignorant where he was, I know not. Certain it is, that he took us a wrong road, in winch he had not gone: i?7J- gone far before he flopped ; and after fome little converfa- Oftober. . . -/ tion between him and another man, we returned back, and Thurfday 7. prefcntiy aftcr> tiie j^ng appeared with very few attendants. As foon as Attago faw him coming, he fat down under a tree, and defired us to do the fame. The king feated himfelf on a rifmg ground, about twelve or fifteen yards from us: here we fat facing one another for fome minutes. I. waited for Attago to Riew us the way; but feeing he did not rife, Captain Furneaux and I got up, went and faluted the king, and fat down by him. We then prefented him with a white fhirt (which we put on his back) a few yards of red cloth, a brafs kettle, a faw, two large fpikes, three looking-glaffes, a dozen of medals, and fome flrings of beads. All this time he fat with the fame fullen flupid gravity as the day before; he even did not feem to fee or know what we were about; his arms appeared immoveable at his fides ; he did not fo much as raife them when we put on the fhirt. I told him, both by words and figns, that wc were going to leave his ifland; he fcarcely made the leaft anfwer to this, or any other thing, we either faid or did. We, therefore, got up and took leave; but I yer remained near him, to obferve his actions. Soon after, he entered into converfation with Attago and an old woman, whom we took to be his mother. I did not underftand any part of the converfation; it however made him laugh, in fpite of his affumed gravity. I fay afTumed, becaufe it exceeded every thing of the kind lever faw; and therefore think it could not be his real difpofition (unlcfs he was an ideot indeed) as thefe iflanders, like all the others we had lately vifited, have a great deal of levity ; and he was in the prime of life. At laft, he rofe up, and retired with his mother and two or three more. Attago conducted us to another circle, where were feated 1773-the aged chief and feveral refpectable old perfons of both J^IL fexes; among whom was the prieft, who was generally Thurfd»y7-in company with this chief. We obferved that this reverend father could walk very well in a morning; but, in an evening, was obliged to be led home by two people. By this we concluded, that the juice of the pepper-root had the fame efFecT upon him, that wine and other flrong liquors have on Europeans who drink a large portion of them. It is very certain, that thefe old people feldom fat down without preparing a bowl of this liquor; which is done in the fame manner as at Ulietea. We, however, muft do them the juftice to believe, that it was meant to treat us; never-thelefs, the greateft part, if not the whole, generally fell to their fliare. I was not well prepared to take leave of this chief, having exhaufted almoft all our ftore on the other. However, after rummaging our pockets, and trcafury bag, which was always carried with me wherever I went, wc made up a tolerable prefent, both for him and his friends. This old chief had an air of dignity about him that commanded refpecl, which the other had not. He was grave, but not fullen; would crack a joke, talk on indifferent fub-jccTs, and endeavour to underftand us and be underftood himfelf. During this vifit, the old prieft repeated a fhort prayer or fpecch, the purport of which we did not under-Rand. Indeed he would frequently, at other times, break out in prayer; but I never faw any attention paid to him by any one prefent. After a Ray of near two hours, we took leave, and returned on board, with Attago and two or three more friends, who ftaid and brcakfaftcd with us; after which they were difmhTed, loaded with prefents. 1773. Attago was very importunate with mc to return again to ef'j this ifles attd to bring with me cloth, axes, nails, &c. &c. urftiay 7. tcuing mc \ fhould have hogs, fowls, fruit, and roots, in abundance. He particularly defired me, more than once, to bring him fuch a fuit of clothes as I had on, which was my uniform. This good-natured iflander was very fervice-able to mc, on many occafions, during our fliort Ray. Pic conflantly came on board every morning foon after it was light, and never quitted us till the evening. He was always ready, either on board or on fhore, to do me all the fervice in his power: his fidelity was rewarded at a fmall expence.; and I found my account in having fuch a friend. In heaving in the coafling cable, it parted in the middle of its length, being chaffed by the rocks. By this accident we loR the other half, together with the anchor, which lay in forty fathoms water, without any buoy to it. The beft bower cable fuffercd alfo by the rocks; by which a judgment may be formed of this anchorage. At ten o'clock wc got under fail; but as our decks were much encumbered with fruit, &c. we kept plying under the land till they were cleared. The fupplics we got at this iRe were about one hundred and fifty pigs, twice that number of fowls, as many bananoes and cocoa-nuts as we could find room for, with a few yams; and had our Ray been longer, we, no doubt, might have got a great deal more. This, in fome degree, fliews the fertility of the ifland, of which, together with the neighbouring one of Middleburg, I mall now give a more particular account. CHAP III. A Dejeription of the Ifands and their Produce, with the Cultivation, Houfes, Ca?ioes, Navigation, Manufactures, Weapons, Cufioms^ Government^ Religion^ and La?i~ guage of the Inhabitants. THESE iflands were firft difcovered by Captain Tafman in January 1642-3; and, by him, called Amftcrdam and Middleburg. But the former is called by the natives Ton-ga-ta-bu, and the latter Ea-oo-wee. They are fituatcd between the latitude of iia 29' and qi° 3'South, and between the longitude of 1740 40' and 1750 15' Weft, deduced from obfervations made on the fpot. Middleburg, or Eaoowe, which is the fouthcrnmoft, is about ten leagues in circuit, and of a height fuflicient to be feen twelve leagues. The fkirts of this ifle are moftly taken up in the plantations ; the S. W. and N. W. fides efpccially. The interior parts are but little cultivated, though very fit for cultivation. However, the want of it added greatly to the beauty of the ifle; for here arc, agreeably difperfed, groves of cocoa-nut and other trees, lawns covered with thick grafs, here and there plantations, and paths leading to every part of the ifland in fuch beautiful diforder, as greatly enlivens the profpecT. The anchorage, which I named Englifh Road (being the firft who anchored there), is on the N. W. fide, in latitude 2i° 20' 30" South. The bearing we took when at anchor, E e 2 already 1773- already mentioned, together with the chart, will be more October. 0 v——» than finTicient to find this anchorage. The bank is a coarfe fand ; it extends two miles from the land, and on it there is from twenty to forty fathoms water. The fmall creek before it affords convenient landing for boats at all times of the tide j which here, as well as at the other iflands, rifes about four or five feet, and is high-water on the full and change days about feven o'clock. The ifland of Tongatabu is fhaped fomething like an ifofceles triangle, the longefl fides whereof are feven leagues each, and the hhorteft four. It lies nearly in the direction of E. S. E. and W. N. W. ; is nearly all of an equal height, rather low, not exceeding fixty or eighty feet above the level of the fea. This ifland, and alfo that of Eaoowc, is guarded from the fea by a reef of coral rocks extending out from the fhore one hundred fathoms more or lefs. On this reef the force of the fea is fpent before it reaches the land or fhore. Indeed, this is, in fome meafure, the fituation of all the Tropical Ifles in this fea that I have feen; and thus Nature has effectually fecured them from the encroachments of the fea, though many of them are mere points when compared to this vaft ocean. Van Diemen's Road, where we anchored, is under the northweft part of the ifland, between the moft northern and weftern points. There lies a reef of rocks without it, bearing N. W. by W., over which the fea breaks continually. The bank does not extend more than three cables lengths from the fliore; without that, is an unfathomable depth. The lofs of an anchor, and the damage our cables fuflaincd, arc fufficient proofs that the bottom is none of the beft. On the eaft fide of the north point of the ifland (as Mr. Gilbert, whom I fent to furvey the parts, informed me), is a very very fnug harbour, of one mile or more in extent, wherein is feven, eight, and ten fathoms water, with a clean fandy bottom. The channel, by which he went in and out, lies clofe to the point, and has only three fathoms water; but he believes that farther to the N. E. is a channel with a much greater depth which he had not time to examine. Indeed, it would have taken up far more time than I could fpare to have furveyed thefe parts minutely; as there lie a number of fmall iflets and reefs of rocks along the N. E. fide of the ifland, which feemed to extend to the N. E. farther than the eye could reach. The ifland of Amflerdam or Tongotabu is wholly laid out in plantations, in which are planted fome of the richeft productions of nature; fuch as bread-fruit, cocoa-nut trees, plantains, bananoes, fhaddocks, yams, and fome other roots, fugar-cane, and a fruit like a nectarine^ called by them Fighega, and at Otaheite Ahuya: In ftiort, here are mofl of the articles which the Society Iflands produce, befides fome which they have not. Mr. Forfler tells me, that he not only found the fame plants here, that are at Otaheite and the neighbouring ifles, but feveral others which are not to be met with there. And I probably have added to their flock of vegetables, by leaving with them an affortment of garden feeds, pulfe, &c. Bread-fruit here, as well as at all the other ifles, was not in feafon; nor was this the time for roots and fhaddocks. We got the latter only at Middleburg. The produce and cultivation of this ifle is the fame as at Amfterdam; with this difference, that a part only of the former is cultivated, whereas the whole of the latter is. The lanes or roads neceffary for travelling, are laid out in fo judicious a manner as to open a free and eafy communication from one part of the ifland to the other. Here are 4 no oaobi. n° t0wns or villaScs>moft of the houfes arc buik in the plan-i—»v— tations, with no other order than what conveniency requires; they arc neatly conftrucTed, but do not exceed thofe in the other ifles. The materials of which they arc built, are the fame; and fome little variation in the difpofition of the framing is all the difference in their conflrucTion. The floor is a little railed, and covered with thick flrong mats ; the fame fort of matting ferves to inclofe them on the windward fide, the other being open. They have little areas before the moR of them, which are generally planted round with trees, or flirubs of ornament, whofe fragrancy perfumes the very air in which they breathe. Their houfehold furniture confifts of a few wooden platters, cocoa-nut fhells, and fome neat wooden pillows fhaped like four-footed ftools or forms. Their common clothing, with the addition of a mat, ferves them for bedding. We got from them two or three earthen vefTels, which were all wc faw among them. One was in the fhape of a bomb-fhell, with two holes in it oppofite each other; the others were like pipkins, containing about five or fix pints, and had been in ufe on the fire. 1 am of opinion they arc the manufacture of fome other ifle j for, if they were of their own, we ought to have feen more of them. Nor am I to fnppofe they came from Taf-man's fhips; the time is too long for brittle veffels like thefe 10 be preferved. We faw no other domeftic animals amongft them but hogs and fowls. The former are of the fame fort as at the other ifles in this fea s but the latter are far fupcrior, being as large as any we have in Europe, and their flefh equally good, if not better. We faw no dogs, and believe they have none, .as they were exceedingly defirous of thofe v/e had on board, ft My i ! >11 11 i ir /-! C i i ! i c i i i i i 2 7 A 1 Drttttg///JJ/att k.jt\rtion of an Am fin-dam Csmoe,seen -hewing five/// the Plat t, /A •// • Distant v • //v'/// eat to outside being a efstcitred with l>< antx and Fere :i-J/iyiieeesof' Timbet Imbed Irgetherwilb. V/////7 made of ( ocoaNut Da/s. References to flie Sections. j The forme j 'tlh- IU'Sy with a j Stan liens supporting the Deck I f// ///»• / I >/v ^///(/. ])! fuirtt. B /'//.■ nr/.' /'/,;;:>■,'/ tin- Jicch C TheJJtck The/ivm<•/ theJiodyatthe Sfutthipparte} the feuu v I. »i-Vi'itit Sri lii '//.• .r//, I •////v ///✓//// Dim elision % /.i/fir/ti.......................... Breadth......................... Depthexclusive f r/'lll, /hit Co. V ■ 3.10 UnMidfhip 3. 3 I) References (<»i/ic Sheer Draught. '/'///• Ihihoi l'liil,<'iiii f/ir ftiititnv.tv [BuUdicads secur* die keep the Water \fivtti the Midship parte) the Lewiec liiiiiii.d'i i/i< Deck Topsidt which is birth dup to die Deck Timbers or Riders \.Uitimp wrought/'err s ■ ,1/t for thi-tilrami \ofthe Decker Platform te Lodgein Vitlars which support the Deck A Br* * + o References to the I la n . / f/ie Canees A /> lieanis atfmari i' (' Fore l^ifl pieces of Timber <-> Hatchways I S&p of the Mori /'//■ '■'trtr'f'Str.d/.'t/ '■' .i:-"-.m", •••/ SA >.-./..*■; ■<•'/'//.•:'tifdrtt iu tt/cSfixUfd Zothim . ir. tw,„.r /,<,//■ \'"N\ I My friend Attago was complimented with a dog and a bitch, *773-the one from New Zealand, the other from Ulietea. The i__ ^'j" name of a dog with them is koorcc or gooree, the fame as at New Zealand, which mews that they are not wholly mangers to them. Wc faw no rats in thefe ifles, nor any other wild quadrupeds except fmall lizards. The land birds are pigeons, turtle-doves, parrots, parroquets, owls, bald couts with a blue plumage, a variety of fmall birds, and large bats in abundance. The produce of the fea we know but little of; it is reafonable to fuppofe that the fame forts of fifli arc found here as at the other ifles. Their fifhing inflruments are the fame; that is, hooks made of mother of pearl, gigs with two, three, or more prongs, and nets made of a very fine thread, with the meflies wrought exactly like ours. But nothing can be a more demonftrative evidence of their ingenuity than the conftruclion and make of their canoes, which, in point of neatnefs and workmanfhip, exceed every thing of this kind we faw in this fea. They are built of feveral pieces fewed together with bandage, in fo neat a manner, that on the outfide it is difficult to fee the joints. All the faflenings are on the infide, and pafs through kants or ridges, which are wrought on the edges and ends of the feveral boards which compofc the veffel, for that purpofe. They are of two kinds, viz. double and fingle ; and the di-mentions and conflruction of each will be bcR feen in the annexed plan. The fingle ones are from twenty to thirty fcec long, and about twenty or twenty-two inches broad in the middle ; the ficrn terminates in a point, and the head fomething like the point of a wedge. At each end is a kind of deck, for about one third part of the whole length, and open in the middle. In fome the middle of the deck is decorated with a row of white fliells, Ruck on little pegs wrought out of 1773- of the fame piece which compofes it. Thefe fingle canoes 1, -w^. t have all out-riggers, and are fometimes navigated with fails, but more generally with paddles, the blades of which are fhort, and broadeft in the middle. The two veffels which compofe the double canoe arc each about fixty or feventy feet long, and four or five broad in the middle ; and each end terminates nearly in a point; fo that the body or hull differs a little in conflruction from the fingle canoe; but is put together exactly in the fame manner; thefe having a rifing in the middle round the open part, in the form of a long trough, which is made of boards, clofely fitted together, and well fecured to the body of the veffel. Two fuch veffels are faflened to, and parallel to each other, about fix or feven feet afunder, by ftrong crofs beams, fecured by bandages to the upper part of the rifings above mentioned. Over thefe beams and others, which are fupportcd by flanchions fixed on the bodies of the canoes, is laid a boarded platform. All the parts which compofe the double canoe, are made as flrong and light as the nature of the work will admit, and may be immerged in water to the very platform, without being in danger of filling. Nor is it poflible, under any circumftance whatever, for them to fink, fo long as they hold together. Thus they are not only made veffels of burden, but fit for diftant navigation. They are rigged with one mall, which fteps upon the platform, and can eafily be raifed or taken down; and are failed with a lattecn-fail, or triangular one, extended by a long yard, which is a little bent or crooked. The fail is made of mats; the rope they make ufe of is laid exactly like ours, and fome of it is four or five inch. On the platform is built a little fhed or hut, which fcreens the crew from the fun and weather, and ferves for other purpofes. They alfo carry a moveable fire-hearth, which which is a fquare, but fhallow, trough of wood, filled with £1%^ ftones. The way into the hold of the canoe is from off the *--j-» platform, down a fort of uncovered hatchway, in which they ftand to bail out the water. I think thefe veflcls are navigated cither end foremoft, and that, in changing tacks, they have only occafion to fhift or jib round the fail; but of this I was not certain, as I had not then feen any under fail, or with the maft and fail an end, but what were a confiderable diftance from us. Their working tools are made of ftone, bone, fliells, &c. as at the other iflands. When we view the work which is performed with thefe tools, we are ftruck with admiration at the ingenuity and patience of the workman. Their knowledge of the utility of iron was no more than fufficient to teach them to prefer nails to beads, and fuch trifles ; fome, but very few, would exchange a pig for a large nail, or a hatchet. Old jackets, fliirts, cloth, and even rags, were in more efteem than the beft edge-tool we could give them; confequently they got but few axes from us but what were given as prefents. But if we include the nails which were given by the officers and crews of both fliips for curiofities, Sec. with thofe given for refrefliments, they cannot have got lefs than five hundred weight, great and fmall. The only piece of iron we faw among them w7as a fmall broad awl, which had been made of a nail. Both men and women are of a common fize with Europeans ; and their colour is that of a lightifh copper, and more uniformly fo than amongft the inhabitants of Otaheite and the Society Ifles. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion thefe were a much handfomer race ; others maintained a contrary opinion, of which number I was one. Be this as F f it 1773- it may, they have a eood fhape, and regular features, and" October. J 0 -' are active, briik, and lively. The women, in particular, are the merrieif creatures I ever met with, and will keep chattering by one's fide, without the lead invitation, or considering whether they are underftood, provided one docs but feem pleafed with them. In general they appeared to be modeft; although there was no want of thofe of a different Ramp; and as we had yet fome venereal complaints on board, I took all poflible care to prevent the diforder being communicated to them. Upon mofl occafions they fhewed a flrong propenfity to pilfering ; in which they were full as expert as the Ota* heiteans. Their hair in general is black, but more efpecially that of the women. Different colours were found among the men, fometimes on the fame head, caufed by fomething they put upon it, which flains it white, red, and blue. Both fexes wear it fhort; I faw but two exceptions to this cuflom, and the moR of them combed it upwards. Many of the boys had it cut very clofe, except a fingle lock on the top of the head, and a fmall quantity on each fide. The men cut or fliave their beards quite clofe, which operation is performed with two fhells. They have fine eyes, and in general good teeth, even to an advanced age. The cuftom of tattovuing. or puncturing the fkin prevails. The men are tat towed from the middle of the thigh to above the hips. The women have it only on their arms and fingers; and there but very Rightly. The drefs of both fexes confifts of a piece of cloth, or matting, wrapped round the waift, and hanging down below the knees. From the waift, upwards, they are generally naked; and it feemed to be a cuftom to anoint thefe parts every 7 morning. morning. My friend Attago never failed to do it; but whether out of refpect to his friend, or from cuRom, I will not pretend to fay; though I rather think from the latter, as he was not fingular in the practice. Their ornaments are amulets, necklaces, and bracelets of bones, fhells, and beads of mother of pearl, tortoife-fhell, whatever they take in hand. How thefe people amufe themfelves in their lcifure hours, I cannot fay, as we are but little acquainted with their di-verfions. The women frequently entertained us with fongs, in a manner which was agreeable enough. They accompany the mufic by fnapping their fingers, fo as to keep time - to it. Not only their voices, but their mufic was very harmonious, and they have a confiderable compafs in their notes. I faw but two mufical inflruments amongfl them. One was a large flute made of a piece of bamboo, which they fill with their nofes as at Otaheite; but thefe have four holes or flops, whereas thofe of Otaheite have only two. The other was compofedof ten or eleven fmall reeds of unequal lengths, bound together fide by fide, as the Doric pipe of the ancients is faid to have been; and the open ends of the reeds into which they blow with their mouths, are of equal height or in a line. They have alfo a drum which, without any impropriety, may be compared to an hollow log of wood. The one I faw was five feet fix inches long, and thirty inches in girt, and had a flit in it, from the one end to the other, about three inches wide, by means of which it had been hollowed out. They beat on the fide of this log with twro drum-Ricks, and produce an hollow found, not quite fo mufical as that of an empty cafk. The common method of faluting one another is by touching or meeting nofes, as is done in New Zealand; and their fign of peace to ftrangers, is the dif'playing a white flag or flags; at leaft fuch were difplayed to us, when we firft drew near the fhore. But the people who came firft on board brought with them fome of the pepper plant, and fent Chapman , Pel, M»-Sqm $tu>c tan* a /■/„■:,;,,/,//;„ //,,., Record , Sculp. ZNUJ£JU. it before them into the ftiip; a Rronger fign of friendfliip 1773- _ . October than which one could not wifh for. From their unfufpicious <- manner of coming on board, and of receiving us at firft on fhore, lam of opinion, they are feldom difturbed by either foreign or domeftic toubles. They are, however, not unprovided with very formidable weapons ; fuch as clubs and fpears, made of hard wood, alfo bows and arrows. The clubs are from three to five feet in length, and of various Riapes, as is reprefented in the plate. Their bows and arrows are but indifferent; the former being very flight, and the latter only made of a flender reed pointed with hard wood. Some of their fpears have many barbs, and muft be very dangerous weapons where they take effect. On the infide of the bow is a groove, in which is put the arrow ; from which it fliould feem that they ufe but one. They have a lingular cuftom of putting every thing you give them to their heads, by way of thanks as wc conjectured. This manner of paying a compliment, is taught them from their very infancy; for when we gave things to little children, the mother lifted up the child's hand to its head. They alfo ufed this cuftom in their exchanges with us; whatever we gave them for their goods, was always applied to the head, juft as if it had been given them for nothing. Sometimes they would look at our goods, and, if not approved, return them back; but whenever they applied them to the head, the bargain was infallibly ftruck. When I had made a prefent to the chief of any thing curious, I frequently faw it handed from one to another; and every one, into whofe hands it came, put it to the Head. Very often the women would take hold of my hand, kifs it, and lift it to their heads. From all this it fhould feem, that this cuftom, whic.ru 1773- which they call fagafatie, has various ftgniflcations accord-^JLj ing as it is applied ; all however complimentary. It muR be obferved that the fullen chief or king did not pay mc any of thefe compliments for the prefents I made him. A Rill more lingular cuftom prevails in thefe ifles: Wc obferved that the greater part of the people, both men and women, had loft one, or both their little fingers f. We endeavoured, but in vain, to find out the reafon of this mutilation ; for no one would take any pains to inform us. It was neither peculiar to rank, age, or fex; nor is it done at any certain age, as I faw thofe of all ages on whom the amputation had been juft made ; and, except fome young children, we found few who had both hands perfect. As it was more common among the aged than the young, fome of us were of opinion that it was occafioned by the death of their parents, or fome other near relation. But Mr. Wales one day met with a man, whofc hands were both perfect, of fuch an advanced age, that it was hardly poflible his parents could be living. They alfo burn or make incifions in their cheeks, near the cheek bone. The reafon of this was equally unknown to us. In fome, the wounds were quite frefh; in others, they could only be known by the fears, or colour of the hkin. I faw neither fick nor lame amongft them; all appeared healthy, flrong and vigorous ; a proof of the good-nefs of the climate in which they live. I have frequently mentioned a King, which implies the government being in a fingle perfon, without knowing for certain whether it is fo or not. Such an one was, however, f Thi^cuflom is not peculiar to the inhabitants of the Friendly Ifles. See Recherches Philofophiqucs fur les Americains, torn, ii. p. 253, &c. pointed pointed out to us; and we had no reafon to doubt it. From ^773-this, and other circumftances, i am of opinion that the v—-v—-j government is much like that of Otaheite : that is, in a king or great chief, who is here called Areeke, with other chiefs under him, who are lords of certain diftricts, and perhaps fole proprietors, to whom the people feem to pay great obedience. i alfo obferved a third rank, who had not a little authority over the common people •, my friend Attago was one of thefe. I am of opinion that all the land on Tongataba is private property, and that there are here, as at Otaheite, a fet of people, who are fervants or flaves, and have no property in land. It is unrcafonable to fuppofe every thing in common in a country fo highly cultivated as this. Intereft being the greater! fpring which animates the hand of in-duflry, few would toil in cultivating and planting the land, if they did not expect to reap the fruit of their labour: were it otherwife, the induflrious man would be in a worfe Hate than the idle fluggard. I frequently faw parties of fix eight, or ten people, bring down to the landing-place, fruit and other things to difpofe, of, where one perfon, a man or woman, fuperintended the fale of the whole ; no exchanges were made but with his or her confent; and, whatever we gave in exchange, was always given them, which, I think, plainly hhewed them to be the owners of the goods, and the others no more than fervants. Though benevolent Nature has been very bountiful to thefe hies, it cannot be faid that the inhabitants are wholly exempt from the curfe of our forefathers: part of their bread muft be earned with the fweat of their brows. The high ftate of cultivation their lands are in, muft have coft them immenfe labour. This is now amply rewarded by the great produce, of which every one feems to partake. No one wants the common necefla-ries of life; joy and contentment are painted in every face. Indeed*, Indeed, it can hardly be otherwifc; an eafy freedom pre* vails among all ranks of people ; they feel no wants which they do not enjoy the means of gratifying; and they live in a clime where the painful extremes of heat and cold are equally unknown. If Nature has been wanting in any thing, it is in the article of frefh water, which, as it is fliut up in the bowels of the earth, they are obliged to dig for. A running flream was not feen, and but one well, at Amflcr-dam. At Middleburg, we faw no water but what the natives had in veRels ; but, as it was fweet and cool, I had no doubt of its being taken up upon the ifland; and, probably, not far from the fpot where I faw it. So little do we know of their religion, that I hardly dare mention it. The buildings called dfiatoucas, before mentioned, are undoubtedly fet apart for this purpofe. Some of our gentlemen were of opinion, that they were merely bury-ing-places. I can only fay, from my own knowledge, that they are places to which particular perfons directed fet fpeeches, which I underflood to be prayers, as hath been already related. Joining my opinion with that of others, I was inclined to think that they are fet apart to be both temples and burying-places, as at Otaheite, or even in Europe. Rut I have no idea of the images being idols ; not only from what I faw myfelf, but from Mr. Wales's informing me that they fet one of them up, for him and others to fhoot at. One circumflance fliewed that thefe Afiatoucas were frequently rcforted to, for one purpofe or other. The areas, or open places, before them, being covered with a green fod, the grafs on which was very Riort. This did not appear to have been cut, or reduced by the hand of man, but to have been prevented in its growth, by being often trod, or fat upon. 6 It It cannot be fuppofed that we could know much, either I773- _ _ , . ■ . . r „ . „ October. of their civil or religious policy, in 10 lnort a time as four i___„__» or five days, efpecially as we underflood but little of their language; even the two iflanders we had on board could not at firft underftand them; and yet as we became the more acquainted with them, we found their language was nearly the fame fpoken at Otaheite and the Society Ifles. The difference not being greater than what we find betwixt the moft northern and weftern parts of England, as will more fully appear by the vocabulary. CHAP. IV. Paffage from Amflerdam to ^ueen Charlotte's Sound> with an Account of an Interview with the Inhabitants^ and the fnal Separation of the two Ships. ABOUT the time we were in a condition to make fail, Thurfday7. a canoe, conducted by four men, came along-fide, with one of thofe drums already mentioned, on which one man kept continually beating; thinking, no doubt, the mufic would charm us. I gave them a piece of cloth, and a nail, for the drum ; and took the opportunity to fend to my friend Attago fome wheat, peafe, and beans, which I had forgot to give him when he had the other feeds. As foon as this canoe was gone, we made fail to the fouthward, having a gentle gale at S. E. by E.; it being my intention to proceed directly to Queen Charlotte's Sound in New Zealand, there to take in wood and water, and then to go on farther difcoveries to the South and Eaft. Gg In 17 73- • In the afternoon on the 8th, we made the ifland of Pilllart, v^^J bearing S. W. by W. £ W, diftant feven or eight leagues. Friday 8. fj^g tf[andj whldh was alfo difcovered by Tafman, i3 fitu-ated in the latitude of 220 26' South, longitude 175" 59' Weft, and lies in the direction of S. 520 Weft, diftant thirty-two leagues from the fouth end of Middleburg. It is more con-fpicuous in height than circuit; having in it two confiderable hills, feemingly disjoined from each other by a low valley. After a few hours calm the wind came to S. W.; with which we flretched to the S. E. j but, on the 10th, it veered round by the South to the S. E. and E. S. E. and then wc renamed our courfe to the S. S. W. Thurfday 21. At five o'clock in the morning of the 21ft, we made the land of New Zealand extending from N. W. by N. to W. S. W.; at noon, Table Gape bore Weft, diftant eight or ten leagues. I was very dcfirous of having fome inter-courfe with the natives of this country as far to the north as poftible ; that is about Poverty or Tolaga Bays, where I apprehended they were more civilized than at Queen Charlotte's Sound ; in order to give them fome hogs, fowls, feeds, roots, &c. which I had provided for the purpofe. The wind veering to the N. W. and North, enabled us to fetch in with the land a little to the north of Portland, and we flood as near the fhore as we could with fafety. Wc obferved feveral people upon it, but none attempted to come ofF to us. Seeing this, we bore away under Portland, where wc lay to fome time,, as well to give time for the natives to come off, as to wait for the Adventure. There were feveral people on Portland, but none feemed inclined to come to us; indeed the wind, at this time, blew rather too frefh for them to make the attempt. Therefore as foon as the Adventure was up with us, we made fail for Cape Kidnappers, which we 1 paffed Thurfday 11. naflcd at five o'clock in the morning, and continued our im- Oclober. courfe along-fhorc till nine, when, being about three leagues fhort of Black-head, we faw fome canoes put off from the fhore. Upon this I brought to, in order to give them time to come on board; but ordered the Adventure, by fignal, to Rand on, as I was willing to lofe as little time as poRiblc. Thofe in the firR canoe, which came along-fide, were fifhers, and exchanged fome fifh for pieces of cloth and nails. In the next, were two men, whom, by their drefs and behaviour, I took to be chiefs. Thefe two were eafily prevailed on to come on board, when they were prefented with nails, and other articles. They were fo fond of nails, as to feize on all they could find, and with fuch eagernefs, as plainly lbcwed they were the moR valuable things we could give them, fo the principal of thefe two men I gave the pigs, fowls, feeds, and roots. I believe, at firft, he did not think I meant to give them to him ; for he took but little notice of them, till he was fatisficd they were for himfelf. Nor was he then in fuch a rapture as when I gave him a fpike-nail half the length of his arm. However, at his going away, I took notice, that he very well remembered how many pigs and fowls had been given him, as he took care to have them all collected together, and kept a watchful eye over them, left any fliould be taken away. He made me a promife not to kill any; and if he keeps his word, and proper care is taken of them, there were enough to flock the whole ifland in due time; being two boars, two fows, four hens, two cocks. The feeds were fuch as are moft ufeful (viz.) wheat, French and kidney beans, peafe, cabbage, turnips, onions, carrots, parfnips, and yams, i-T/iiJi . « November. credit to the firft ftory than this. I mould have replaced «__„-» them, by leaving behind the only two I had left, but had the Monday misfortune to lofe the ram foon after our arrival here, in a manner we could hardly account for. They were both put afhore at the tents, where they feemed to thrive very well: at laft, the ram was taken with fits bordering on madnefs. We were at a lofs to tell whether it was occafioned by anything he had eaten, or by being flung with nettles, which were in plenty about the place ; but fuppofed it to be the latter, and therefore did not take the care of him we ought to have done. One night, while he was lying by the centi-nel, he was feized with one of thefe fits, and ran headlong into the fea; but foon came out again, and feemed quite cafy. Prefently after, he was feized with another fit, and ran along the beach, with the fhe-goat after him. Some time after, flie returned, but the other was never feen more. Diligent fearch was made for him in the woods, to no purpofe ; we therefore fuppofed he had run into the fea a fe-cond time, and had been drowned. After this accident, it would have been in vain to leave the fhe-goat as fhe was not with kid; having kidded but a few days before we arrived, and the kids dead. Thus the reader will fee how every method I have taken to ftock this country with fliccp and goats, has proved ineffectual. When I returned on board in the evening, I found our good friends the natives had brought us a large fupply of fifh. Some of the officers vifiting them at their habitations, faw, among them, fome human thigh-bones, from which the flefti had been but lately picked. This, and other cir-cumftances, led us to believe that the people, whom we took for ftrangers this morning, were of the fame tribe; that I i they they had been out on fome war expedition ; and that thofe things they fold us, were the fpoils of their enemies. Indeed, we had fome information of this fort the day before ; for a number of women and children came off to us in a canoe, from whom we learnt that a party of men were then out, for whofe fafety they were under fome apprehenfion; but this report found little credit with us, as we foon after faw fome canoes come in from fifliing, which we judged to be them. Having now got the fhip in a condition for fea, and to encounter the fouthern latitudes, I ordered the tents to be flruck and every thing to be got on board. The boatfwain, with a party of men, being in the woods cutting broom, fome of them found a private hut of the natives, in which was depofited moR of the treafure they had received from us, as well as fome other articles of their own. It is very probable fome were fet to watch this hut; as, foon after it was difcovered, they came, and took all away. But miRing fome things, they told our people they had Rolen them ; and, in the evening, came and made their complaint to me, pitching upon one of the party as the perfon who had committed the theft. Having ordered this man to be punifhed before them, they went away feemingly fatisfied ; although they did not recover any of the things they had loft, nor could I by any means find out what had become of them; though nothing was more certain than that fomething had been flolen by fome of the party, if not by the very man the natives had pitched upon. It was ever a maxim with me, to punifh the leaft crimes any of my people committed againft thefe uncivilized nations. Their robbing us with impunity is, by no means, a fufficient reafon why we fhould treat them in the fame manner, a conduct:, we fee, they themfelves AND ROUND THE WORLD. 243 thcmfelvcs cannot juftify: they found themfelvcs injured, *773- ii >tm 1 n November. and fought for redrefs in a legal way. The beft method, in 1- my opinion, to prcferve a good underRanding with fuch Monda> people, is, firft, by mewing them the ufe of lire-arms, to convince them of the fuperiority they give you over them, and then to be always upon your guard. When once they are fenfible of thefe things, a regard for their own fafety will deter them from difturbing you, or from being unanimous in forming any plan to attack you ; and ftricl: honefly, and gentle treatment on your part, will make it their intereft not to do it. Calm or light airs from the North, all day, on the 23d, Tuefday B|( hindered us from putting to fea as intended. In the afternoon, fome of the officers went on ftiore to amufe themfelvcs among the natives, where they faw the head and bowels of a youth, who had lately been killed, lying on the beach ; and the heart Ruck on a forked Rick, which was fixed to the head of one of the largcR canoes. One of the gentlemen bought the head, and brought it on board, where a piece of the flefh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives, before all the officers, and moft of the men. I was on flrorc at this time, but foon after returning on board, was informed of the above circumftanccs; and found the quarter-deck crowded with the natives, and the mangled head, or rather part of it* (for the under jaw and lip were wanting) lying on the taffe-ral. The fcull had been broken on the left fide, juft above the temples; and the remains of the face had all the appearance of a youth under twenty. The fight of the head, and the relation of the above circumftanccs, ftruck mc with horror, and filled my mind with indignation againft thefe cannibals. Curiofity, however, I i 2 got *773* got the better of my indignation, efpccially when I confi- y--v-» dercd that it would avail but little, and being defirous of be- •y*3« comjng an eyc-witnefs of a fact which many doubted, I ordered a piece of the flefh to be broiled and brought to the quarter-deck, where one of thefe cannibals eat it with fur-prifing avidity. This had fuch an effect on fome of our people as to make them fick. Oedidee (who came on board with mc) was fo affected with the fight as to become perfectly motionlefs, and feemed as if metamorphofed into the Ratue of Horror. It is utterly impoflible for art to defcribc that paflion with half the force that it appeared in his countenance. When rouzed from this Rate by fome of us, he bur ft into tears ; continued to weep and fcold by turns; told them they were vile men; and that he neither was, nor would be any longer their friend. He even would not fuffer them to touch him; he ufed the fame language to one of the gentlemen who cut off the flefh; and refufed to accept, or even touch, the knife with which it was done. Such was Oedidee's indignation againfl the vile cuftom j and worthy of imitation by every rational being. I was not able to find out the reafon for their undertaking this expedition ; all I could underftand for certain was, that they went from hence into Admiralty Bay (the next inlet to the Weft) and there fought with their enemies, many of whom they killed. They counted to mc fifty; a number which exceeded probability, as they were not more, if fo many, themfclves. I think I underftood them clearly, that this youth was killed there; and not brought away prifoner, and afterwards killed. Nor could I learn that they had brought away any more than this one ; which increafed the improbability of their having killed fo many. We had alfo reafon reafon to think that they did not come off without lofs; for a T773- ■ November. young woman was feen, more than once, to cut herfelf, as «____„-* is the cuRom when they lofe a friend or relation. Toefcfy ty That the New Zealanders are cannibals, can now no longer be doubted. The account given of this in my former voyage, being partly founded on circumftanccs, was, as I afterwards undcrflood, difcrcditcd by many perfons. Few con-fider what a favagc man is in his natural {late, and even after he is, in fome degree, civilifed. The New Zealander:; are certainly in fome Rate of civilization ; their behaviour to us was manly and mild, mewing, on all occafions, a rcadi-nefs to oblige. They have fome arts among them which1 they execute with great judgment, and unwearied patience; they are far lefs addicted to thieving than the other iflanders of the South Sea; and, I believe, thofe in the fame tribe, or fuch as arc at peace one with another, are ftrictly honeR among thcmfelvcs. This euflom of eating their enemies ' flain in battle (for I firmly believe they eat the flefh of no others) has, undoubtedly, been handed down to them from the earlicft times ; and we know it is not an eafy matter to wean a nation from their ancient cufioms, let them be ever fo inhuman and favagc ; cfpecially if that nation has no manner of connexion or commerce with Rrangers. For it is by this that the greatefl part of the human race has been' civilized ; an advantage which the New Zealanders, from their fituation, never had. An intercourfe with foreigners* would reform their manners, and polifh their favagc minds. Or, were they more united under a fettled form of govern* mcnt, they would have fewer enemies, confequently this cuftom would be lefs in ufe, and might in time be in a manner forgotten. At prefenr, they have but little idea of treating others as thcmfelves would ivijh to be treated, but treat treat them as they expccl to be treated. If I remember right, one of the arguments they made ufe of to Tupia, who frequently cxpoffulated with them againft this cuRom, was, that there could be no harm in killing and eating the man who would do the fame by them, if it was in his power. For, faid they, " can there be any harm in eating our enemies, " whom we have killed in battle ? Would not thofe very " enemies have done the fame to us V I have often feen them liften to Tupia with great attention ; but I never found his arguments have any weight with them, or that, with all his rhetoric, he could perfuade any one of them that this cuftom was wrong. And when Oedidee, and feveral of our people, fhewed their abhorrence of it, they only laughed at them. Among many reafons which I have heard aftigned for the prevalence of this horrid cuftom, the want of animal food has been one j but how far this is deducible either from facts or circumftances, I fhall leave thofe to find out who advanced it. In every part of New Zealand where I have been, fifli was in fuch plenty, that the natives generally caught as much as ferved both themfelves and us. They have alfo plenty of dogs; nor is there any want of wild-fowl, which they know very well how to kill. So that neither this, nor the want of food of any kind, can, in my opinion, be the reafon. But, whatever it may be, I think it was but too evident, that they have a great liking for this kind of food. I muft here obferve, that Oedidee foon learnt to converfe with thefe people, as, 1 am perfuaded, he would have done with the people of Amfterdam, had he been a little longer with them ; for he did not underftand the New Zealanders, at firft, any more, or not fo much, as he undcrftood the people of Amfterdam. At At four o'clock in the morning, on the 24th, we unmoored l77$ with an intent to put to fea; but the wind being at North y_ and N. E. without, and blowing flrong puffs into the cove* Wednefd'^* made it neceflary for us to lie faft. While we were unmooring, fome of our old friends came on board to take their leave of us, and afterwards left the cove with all their effects ; but thofe who had been out on the late expedition remained ; and fome of the gentlemen having vifited them, found the heart Rill flicking on the canoe, and the interlines lying on the beach ; but the liver and lungs were now wanting. Probably they had eaten them, after the carcafe was all gone. On the 25th, early in the morning, we weighed, with a Thurfday 25. fmall breeze out of the cove, which carried us no farther than between Motuara and Long Ifland, where we were obliged to anchor; but, prefently after, a breeze fpringing up at North, we weighed again, turned out of the Sound, and flood over for Cape Teerawhitte. During our flay in the Sound, we were plentifully fupplied with fifh, procured from the natives at a very eafy rate ; and, befides the vegetables our own gardens afforded, we found, every where, plenty of fcurvy-grafs and cellery, which I caufed to be dreffed every day for all hands. By this means, they had been moftly on a frefli diet for the three preceding months; and, at this time, we had neither a fick nor fcorbutic man on board. It is neceflary to mention, for the information of others, that we had now fome pork on board, falted at Ulietea, and as good as any I ever eat. The manner in which we cured it, was thus : In the cool of the evening the hogs were killed, dreffed, cut up, the bones cut out, and the flefh falted while it w^as yet hot. The next 5 morning 1773. morning wc gave it a fecond falting, packed it into a cade, ^^^j and put to it a fufficient quantity of ftrong pickle. Great 1 hurray 25. e«afe .g ^ ^ taken tfte meat be wyi covered with pickle, otherwife it will foon fpoil. The morning before we failed, I wrote a memorandum, fetting forth the time we laft arrived, the day we failed, the route I intended to take, and fuch other information as I thought neceffary for Captain Furneaux, in cafe he fhould put into the Sound ; and buried it in a bottle under the root of a tree in the garden, which is in the bottom of the cove, in fuch a manner as muft be found by him or any European who might put into the cove. I, however, had little reafon to hope it would fall into the hands of the perfon for whom it was intended, thinking it hardly poftible that the Adventure could be in any port in New Zealand, as we had not heard of her in all this time. Ncvefthclcfs I was refolved not to leave the .coaft without looking for her, where I thought it moft likely for her td be. It was with this view that I flood over for Cape Tccrawhitte, and afterwards run along fhore, from point to point, to Cape Pallifer, firing guns every half hour; but all to no effect. At eight o'clock wc brought to for the night, Cape Pallifer bearing S. E. by E., diftant three leagues; in which fituation we had fifty fathoms water. I had now an opportunity of making the following remarks on'the coaft between Cape Tccrawhitte and Cape Pal-. lifer. The bay which lies on the Weft fide of the laft Cape, docs not appear to run fo far inland to the northward as I at firft thought; the deception being caufed by the land in the bottom of it being low: it is, however, at leaft five leagues deep, and full as wide at the entrance. Though it 6 ■ feems ? feems to be expofed to foutherly and S. W. winds, it is pro- WJ* bable there may be places in the bottom or it, fheltered even v~ from thefe. The bay or inlet, on the EaR fide of Cape T.eera- wdue,d' whitte, before which wc anchored, lies in North, inclining to the Weft, and feemed to be fheltered from all winds. The middle cape, or point of land that disjoins thefe two bays, rifes to a confiderable height, efpccially inland ; for clofe to the fea is a fldrt.of low land, off which lie fome pointed rocks, but fo near to the fhore as to be noways dangerous. Indeed, the navigation of this fide of the Strait, feems much fafer than the other, bccaufe the tides here are not near fo Rrong. Cape Teerawhitte and Cape Pallifer lie in the direction of N. 690 W., and S. 690 Eafl, from each other diflant ten leagues. The cape which disjoins the two bays above mentioned, lies within, or North of, this direction. All the land near the coaft, between and about thefe capes, is exceedingly barren; probably owing to its being fo much expofed to the cold foutherly winds. From Cape Teera-. whitte to the Two Brothers, which lie off Cape Koamaroo, the courfe* is nearly N. W. by N., diftant fixteen miles. North of Cape Teerawhitte, between it and Entry Ifland, is an ifland lying pretty near the more. I judged this to be an ifland when 1 faw it in my former voyage, but not being certain, left it undetermined in my chart of the Strait, which is the reafon of my taking notice of it now, as alfo of the bays* &c. above-mentioned. At day-light in the morning on the 26th, we made fail Friday 2$. round Cape Pallifer, firing guns as ufual, as we ran along the fhore. In this manner we proceeded till we were three or four leagues to the N. E. of the cape, when the wind fhift-ing to N. E., we bore away foivCape Campbell on the other Kk fide 1773- fide of the Strait. Soon after, feeing a fmoke afcend, at fome November. v_.—diftance inland, away to the N. E., we hauled the wind, and continued to ply till fix o'clock in the evening; which was feveral hours after the fmoke difappeared, and left us not the leafl figns of people. Every one being unanimoufly of opinion that the Adventure could neither be flranded on the coafl, nor be in any of the harbours thereof, I gave up looking for her, and all thoughts of feeing her any more during the voyage ; as no rendezvous was abfolutely fixed upon after leaving New Zealand. Neverthelefs, this did not difcourage me from fully exploring the fouthern parts of the Pacific Ocean, in the doing of which I intended to employ the whole of the enfuing feafon. On our quitting the coaft, and confequently all hopes of being joined by our confort, I had the fatis fact ion to find that not a man was dejected, or thought the dangers we had yet to go through, were in the leaft increafed by being alone; but as cheerfully proceeding to the South, or wherever I might think proper to lead them, as if the Adventure or even more fhips had been in our company. CHAP. VI. Route of the Ship from New Zealand in fearch of a Continent ; with an Account of the various Objlruclions met with from the Ice, and the Methods purfued to explore the Southern Pacifc Ocean, AT eight o'clock in the evening of the 26th, we took ,7?3< our departure from Cape Pallifer, and Reered to the South, inclining to the Eaft, having a favourable gale from Frlday z6-the N. W. and S. W.. We daily faw fome rock-weed, feals, Port Egmont hens, albatrofles, pintadoes, and other peterels; and on the 2d of December, being in the latitude of 480 23' December. South, longitude 179^ 16' Weft, we faw a number of red Thurfday 2' bilPd penguins, which remained about us for feveral days. On the 5th, being in the latitude 5oQ 17'South, longitude Sunday s. 179° 40' Eaft, the variation was 180 25' Eaft. At half an hour paft eight o'clock the next evening, we reckoned ourfelves Monday 6. antipodes to our friends in London, confequently as far removed from them as poflible. On the 8th, being in latitude $5° 39', longitude 1780 53' wednef. 8. Weft, we ceafed to fee penguins and feals, and concluded that thofe we had feen, retired to the fouthern parts of New Zealand, whenever it was neceflary for them to be at land. We had now a flrong gale at N. W., and a great fwell from S. W. This fwell we got as foon as the South point of New Zealand came in that direction ; and as we had had no wind from that quarter the fix preceding days, but, on the contrary, it had been at Eaft, North, and N. W., I conclude K k 2 there 1773. December. C__y-' Wednef. 8. there can be no land to the fouthward, under the meridian of New Zealand, but what muR lie very far to the South. The two following days we had very Rormy weather, fleet and fnow, winds between the North and South-weft. Saturday rr. Tjle J^t^ tjie ftorm abated, and the weather clearing up, we found the latitude to be 61° 15' South, longitude 1730 4/ W. This fine weather was of lhort duration: in the evening the wind increafed to a flrong gale at S. W., blew in fqualls attended with thick fnow ihowers, hail, and fleet. The mercury in the thermometer fell to thirty-two ; confequently the weather was very cold, and feemed to indicate that ice was not far off. Sunday iz. At four o'clock the next morning, being in the latitude of 62? 10' South, longitude 172° Weft, we faw the firft ice ifland, 11° 7 farther South than the firft ice we faw the preceding year after leaving the Cape of Good Hope. At the time we faw this ice we alfo faw an Antarctic peterel, fome grey albatrofles, and our old companions pintadoes and blue peterels. The wind kept veering from S. W. by the N. W. to N. N. E., for the moft part a frefli gale, attended with a thick haze and fnow; on which account we fleered to the S. E. and F., keeping the wind always on the beam, that it might be in our power to return back nearly on the fame track, fhould our courfe have been interrupted by any danger whatever. For fome days we had a great fea from the N. W. and S. W., fo that it is not probable there can be any land near, between thefe two points. Ta^fday 14. We fell in with feveral large iflands on the 14th, and, about noon, with a quantity of loofe ice, through which we failed. Latitude 640 55' South, longitude 1630 20' Weft. Grey albatrofles, blue peterels, pintadoes, and fulmers, were feen. As As we advanced to the S. E. by E. with a frefli gale at Weft, J773-we found the number of ice iflands increafe faft upon us. * Betweeunoon and eight in the evening, we faw but two; but before four o'clock in the morning of the 15th, we had pafled Wednef- I5-feventeen, befides a quantity of loofe ice which we ran through. At fix o'clock, we were obliged to haul to the N. E. in order to clear an immenfc field which lay to the * South and S. E. The ice, in moft part of it, lay clofe packed together; in other places, there appeared partitions in the field, and a clear fea beyond it. However, I did not think itfafe to venture through, as the wind would not permit us to return the fame way that we muft go in. Befides, as it blew flrong, and the weather, at times, was exceedingly foggy, it was the more neceffary for us to get clear of this loofe ice, which is rather more dangerous than the great iflands. It was not fuch ice as is ufually found in bays, or rivers, and near fhore; but fuch as breaks off from the iflands, and may not improperly be called parings of the large pieces, or the rubbifli or fragments which fall ofF when the great iflands break loofe from the place where they are formed. We had not flood long to the N. E. before we found ourfelves embayed by the ice, and were obliged to tack and Rretch to the S. W. having the field, or loofe ice, to the South, and many huge iflands to the North. After Handing two hours on this tack, the wind very luckily veering to the weftward, we tacked, flretched to the North, and foon got clear of all the loofe ice; but not before we had received feveral hard knocks from the larger pieces, which, with all our care, we could not avoid. After clearing one danger we Rill had another to encounter; the weather remained foggy, and many large iflands lay in our way; fo that *77$r. that we had to luff for one, and bear up for another. One i^JL—^ we were very near falling aboard of; and if it had happened, wcdnc . 15. t^.g circumftance wouid never have been related. Thefe difficulties, together with the improbability of finding land farther South, and the impoflibility of exploring it, on account of the ice, if wc mould find any, determined me to get more to the North. At the time we laft tacked, we were in the longitude of 1590 20' Weft, and in the latitude of 6G° o' S. Several penguins were feen on fome of the ice iflands, and a few antarctic peterels on the wing. We continued to ftand to the North, with a frefli gale at Weft, attended with thick fnow fhowers, till eight o'clock in the evening, when the wind abated, the fky began to clear Thurfday 16. up, and at fix o'clock in the morning of the 16th it fell calm. Four hours after, it was fucceeded by a breeze at N. E. with which we flretched to theJS. E., having thick hazy weather, with fnow fhowers, and all our rigging coated with ice. In the evening wc attempted to take fome up out of the fea, but were obliged to defift; the fea running too high, and the pieces being fo large, that it was dangerous for the boat to come near them. Friday 17. The next morning, being the 17th, we fucceeded better ; for, falling in with a quantity of loofe ice, we hoifled out two boats ; and, by noon, got on board as much as we could manage. We then made fail for the Eaft, with a gentle breeze northerly, attended with fnow and fleet, which froze to the rigging as it fell. At this time we were in the latitude of 640 41' South, longitude 1550 44' Weft. The ice wc took up proved to be none of the beft, being chiefly com-pofed of frozen fnow; on which account it was porous, and had imbibed a good deal of fait water: but this drained off, after AND ROUND THE WORLD, 255 after lying a while on deck, and the water then yielded was *773* , r> December. frefli. We continued to Rretch to the Jb.au, with a piercing \___1 cold northerly wind, attended with a thick fog, fnow, and Fndayl7* fleet, that decorated all our rigging with icicles. Wc were hourly meeting with fome of the large ice iflands, which, in thefe high latitudes, render navigation fo very dangerous: at feven in the evening, falling in with a clufler of them, we narrowly efcaped running aboard of one, and, with difficulty, wore clear of the others. We Rood back to the Weft till ten o'clock \ at which time the fog cleared away, and we refumed our courfe to the Eaft. At noon, the next day, we were in the latitude of 640 49' S., longitude Saturday >& 1490 19'Weft. Some time after, our longitude, by obferved diftance of the fun and moon, was 149° 19' Weft; by Mr. Kendal's watch, i48°36'; and, by my reckoning, 1480 43', latitude 64° 48' South. The clear weather, and the wind, veering to N. W., tempted me to fleer South; which courfe we continued till feven in the morning of the 20th, when the wind changing Monday tt. to N. E. and the fky becoming clouded, we hauled up S. E. In the afternoon the wind increafed to a flrong gale, attended with a thick fog, fnow, fleet, and rain, which conftitutes the very worft of weather. Our rigging, at this time, was fo loaded with ice that we had enough to do, to get our top-fails down, to double the reef. At feven o'clock in the evening, in the longitude of 147° 46', we came, the fecond time, within the antarctic or polar circle, continuing our courfe to the S. E. till fix o'clock the next morning. At that time, Tuefday 2% being in the latitude of 6f South, all at once we got in among a duller of very large ice iflands, and a vaft quantity of loofe pieces j and, as the fog was exceedingly thick, it 2 was. 1773- December. x_.-v-> Tuefday 21, Wednef. 22. Thuifday 23. was with the utmofl difficulty we wore clear of them. This done, we Rood to the N. W. till noon, when, the fog being fomewhat diflipated, we refumed our courfe again to the S. E. The ice iflands we met with in the morning were very high and rugged, forming at their tops many peaks; whereas the moR of thofe we had feen before, were flat at top, and not fo high; though many of them were between two and three hundred feet in height, and between two and three miles in circuit, with perpendicular cliffs or fides, aftonifhing to behold. MoR of our winged companions had now left us; the grey albatrofles only remained; and, in-Read of the other birds, we were vifited by a few antarctic peterels. The 22d we fleered E. S. E. with a frefli gale at North, blowing in fqualls, one of which took hold of the mizzen top-fail, tore it all to rags, and rendered it, for ever after, ufelefs. At fix o'clock in the morning, the wind veering toward the Wefl, our courfe was Eaft northerly. At this time we were in the latitude of 670 31', the higheft we had yet been in, longitude 1420 54'Weft. We continued our courfe to the E. by N. till noon the 23d, when being in the latitude of 6j° 12', longitude 1380 o', wc fleered S. E.; having then twenty-three ice iflands in fight, from off the deck, and twice that number, from the maft-head j and yet we could not fee above two or three miles round us. At four o'clock in the afternoon, in the latitude of 670 20', longitude 137" 12', we fell in with fuch a quantity of field, or loofe ice, as covered the fea in the whole extent from South to Eaft, and was fo thick and clofe as wholly to obftruct our paffage. At this time, the wind being pretty moderate, and the fea fmooth, we brought to> at ■ at the outer edge of the ice, hoiRed out two boats and fent *773- „ - . - December, them to take fome up. In the mean time, we laid hold of i__„_? feveral large pieces along-fide, and got them on board with Thurfday 25" our tackle. The taking up ice proved fuch cold work, that it was eight o'clock by the time the boats had made two trips; when we hoiRed them in, and made fail to the Weft, under double reefed top-fails and courfes, with a ftronggale at North, attended with fnow and fleet, which froze to the rigging as it fell, making the ropes like wires, and the fails like boards or plates of metal. The fheaves alfo were frozen fo faft in the blocks, that it required our utmoft efforts to get a top-fail down and up ; the cold fo intenfe as hardly to be endured ; the whole fea, in a manner, covered with ice ; a hard gale, and a thick fog. Under all thefe unfavourable circumftances, it was natural for me to think of returning more to the North ; feeing no probability of finding any land here, nor a poflibility of getting farther South. And to have proceeded to the Eaft, in this latitude, muft have been wrong, not only on account of the ice, but becaufe we muft have left a vaft fpace of fea to the North unexplored ; a fpace of 24° of latitude; in which a large track of land might have lain. Whether fuch a fuppofition was well-grounded, could only be determined by vifiting thofe parts. While we were taking up ice, we got two of the antarcTic peterels fo often mentioned, by which our conjectures were confirmed of their being of the peterel tribe. They are about the fizc of a large pigeon; the feathers of the head, back, and part of the upper fide of the wings, are of a light brown ; the belly, and under fide of the wings, white; the tail feathers arc alfo white, but tipped with brown: at the L1 fame 1773. fame time, we q;ot another new petcrel, fmaller than the for- Deccmbcr. a *-' mer, and all of a dark grey plumage. We remarked that thefe i.iu.iday 23 ^.r(|s werc fuller of feathers than any we had hitherto feen; fuch care has nature taken to cloath them fuitably to the climate in which they live. At the fame time we faw a few chocolate-coloured albatrofles; thefe, as well as the peterels above-mentioned, wc no where faw but among the ice; hence one may, with reafon, conjecture that there is land to the South. If not, I muft afk where thefe birds breed ? A queftion which perhaps will never be determined; for hitherto we have found thefe lands, if any, quite inacccflible. Befides thefe birds, we faw a very large feal, which kept playing about us fome time. One of our people who had been at Greenland, called it a fea-horfe ; but every one elfe who faw it, took it for what I have faid. Since our firft falling in with the ice, the mercury in the thermometer had been from 33 to 31 at noon day. Friday 24. On the 24th, the wind abated, veering to the N. W., and the fky cleared up, in the latitude of 6y° o', longitude *5f' As we advanced to the N. E. with a gentle gale at N. W., the ice iflands increafed fo faft upon us, that this day, at noon, we could fee near 100 round us, befides an immenfe number of fmall pieces. Perceiving that it was likely to be calm, I got the fliip into as clear a birth as I could ; where flic drifted along with the ice, and by taking the advantage of every light air of wind, was kept from falling aboard any Saturday 25. of thefe floating ifles. Here it was we fpent Ctiriftmas-day, much in the fame manner as we did the preceding one. We were fortunate in having continual day-light, and clear weather; for had it been as foggy as on fome of the preceding days, nothing lefs than a miracle could have faved us from being dalhed to pieces. In In the mornincr of the 26th, the whole fea was in a manner '773« . December. covered with ice, 200 large iflands, and upwards, being {een i—-v--1 within the compafs of four or five miles, which was the H- Sunday z6' mits of our horizon; befides fmaller pieces innumerable. Our latitude at noon was 66° 15'; longitude 134° 22'. By obfervation we found that the fhip had drifted, or gone about, 20 miles to the N. E. or E. N. E.; whereas, by the ice iflands, it appeared that fhe had gone little or nothing; from which wc concluded that the ice drifted nearly in the fame direction, and at the fame rate. At four o'clock a breeze fprung up at \V. S. W. and enabled us to Reer North, the moR probable courfe to extricate ourfelves from thefe dangers. We continued our courfe to the North with a gentle breeze atWeR, attended with clear weather, till four o'clock the next morning, when meeting with a quantity of loofe ice, we Monday z?' brought to, and took on board as much as filled all our empty calks, and for feveral days prefent expence. This done, we made fail, and fleered N. W. with a gentle breeze at N. E. clear frofty weather. Our latitude at this time was 650 53' S, longitude 1330 42' Weft; iflands of ice not half fo numerous as before. At four in the morning of the 28th, the wind having veered TueWay 28. more to the Eafl and S. E., increafed to a frefli gale, and was attended with fnow fhowcrs. Our courfe was North till noon the next day. Being then in the latitude of 620 24', Wednef: tg. longitude 1340 37', we fleered N. W. by N. Some hours after, the fky cleared up, and the wind abating, veered more to the South. On the 30th, had little wind Weftcrly; dark gloomy wca- Thurfda 3o r.her, with fnow and fleet at times ; feveral whales feen play- h1 2 ing 1773. December, Friday 3 i. 1774. January. Saturday 1, Stnday 2. M«nday 3. ing about the fhip, but very few birds; iflands of ice in plenty, and a fwell from W. N. W. On the 31 A, little wind from the Weftward; fair and clear weather, which afforded an opportunity to air the fpare fails, and to clean and fmoke the fhip betwixt decks. At noon our latitude was 590 40' S. longitude 1350 11' Weft. Our obfervation to-day gave us reafon to conjecTure that we had a Southerly current. Indeed, this was no more than what might reafonably be fuppofed, to account for fuch huge manes of ice being brought from the South. In the afternoon, had a few hours calm, fucceeded by a breeze from the Eaft, which enabled us to rcfume our N. W. by N. courfe. January ift, the wind remained not long at Eaft, but veered round by the South to Weft; blew frefli; attended with fnow fhowers. In the evening, being in the latitude of 58" 39' S., we pafled two iflands of ice; after which we faw no more till we flood again to the South. At five o'clock in the morning, on the 2d, it fell calm: being at this time in the latitude of 58* i't longitude 1370 12'. The calm being fucceeded by a breeze at Eaft, we fleered N. W. by W. My reafon for fleering this courfe was to explore part of the great fpace of fea between us and our track to the South. On the 3d, at noon, being in latitude 560 46', longitude 139° 45;» me weather became fair, and the wind veered to S. W. About this time wc faw a few fmall Divers (as we call them) of the petercl tribe, which we judged to be fuch as are ufually feen near land, efpecially in the bays, and on the the coaft of New Zealand. I cannot tell what to think of «774- January- thefe birds. Had there been more of them, I mould have <—-* . . i . . Monday 3. been ready enough to believe that we were, at this time, not very far from land; as I never faw one fo far from known land before. Probably thefe few had been drawn thus far by fome ftioal of fifth -r for fuch were certainly about us, by the vaft number of blue peterels, albatroiTes, and fuch other birds as are ufually feen in the great ocean ; all or moft of whom left us before night. Two or three pieces of fea-weed were alfo feen; but thefe appeared old and decayed. At eight o'clock in the evening, being in the latitude of 56* S., longitude 1400 31' Weft, the wind fixing in the Weftern board, obliged us to fteer North-Eafterly, and laid me under the neceflity of leaving unexplored a fpace of the fea to the Weft, containing near 400 of longitude, and half that in latitude. Had the wind continued favourable, I intended to have run 15 or 20 degrees of longitude more to the Weft in the latitude we were then in, and back again to the Eaft in the latitude of 500. This route would have fo interfered the fpace above mentioned, as hardly to have left room for the bare fuppofition of any land lying there. Indeed, as it was, we have little reafon to believe that there is ; but rather the contrary, from the great hollow fwell we had had, for feveral days, from the W. and N. W. though the wind had blown from a contrary direction great part of the time; which is a great fign we had not been covered by any land between thefe two points. While we were in the high latitudes, many of our people were attacked with a flight fever, occafioned by colds. It happily yielded to the fimpleft remedies; was generally removed 1774* moved in a few days : and, at this time, we had not above Januaiy. ' i-—»-' one or two on the fick liR. Thurfday 6. We proceeded N. E. by N. till the 6th, at noon. Being then in the latitude 520 o' S., longitude 1350 32' Weft, and about 200 leagues from our track to Otaheite, in which fpace it was not probable, all circumftances confidered, there is any extenfive land j and it being ftill lefs probable any lay to the Weft, from the great mountainous billows we had had, and Hill continued to have, from that quarter, I, therefore, fleered N. E., with a frefh gale at W. S. W. Friday 7; At eight o'clock in the morning, on the 7th, being in the latitude of 500 49' South, we obferved feveral diftances of the fun and moon, which gave the longitude as follows, viz. By Mr. Wales, i33° 24' Weft. Gilbert, J33 10 Gierke, 133 0 Smith, '33 37 *5" Myfelf, 133 37 Mean, 133 21 43 By the watch, 133 44 Weft. my reckoning, 133 39 Saturday 8. Variation of the compafs, 6 2 Eaft. Thermometer, 50 The next morning we obferved again; and the rcfults were agreeable to the preceding obfervations, allowing for the fliip's run. I muft here take notice that our longitude can never be erroneous, while we have fo good a guide as Mr. Mr. Kendal's watch. This day, at noon, we Reered E. N. E. £ E. being then in the latitude of 49° 7' South, longitude —*-—- 131° a' Weft. On the 9th, in the latitude of $° 17' S., longitude 127° lC/ Sunday 9, Weft, we fleered Eaft, with a fine frefli gale at Weft, attended with clear, pleafant weather, and a great fwell from the fame direction as the wind. Mond iy to*, In the morning of the 10th, having but little wind, we put a boat in the water, in which fome of the officers went and fhot feveral birds. Thefe afforded us a frefli meal: they were of the petcrel tribe, and fuch as are ufually feen at any diftance from land. Indeed, neither birds, nor any other thing was to be feen, that could give us the leaft hopes of finding any ; and, therefore, at noon the next day, being Toefday 11* then in the latitude of 470 51' S., longitude 1220 12' Weft, and a little more than 200 leagues from my track to Otaheite in 1769, I altered the courfe, and fleered S. E. with a frefh gale at S. W. by W. In the evening, when our latitude was 480 22' S., longitude 121? 29' Weft, we found the variation to be 20 34' Eaft; which is the leaft variation we had found without the tropic. In the evening of the next day we found Wednef -u it to be 40 30' Eaft ; our latitude, at that time, was 500 $' & longitude ii9t° Weft. Our courfe was now more Southerly, till the evening of the 13th, when we were in the latitude of 53 0 o' South, Ion- Thurfday 13* gitudc u8Q3/ Weft. The wind being then at N. W. a flrong gale, with a thick fog and rain, which made it unfafe to fleer large, I hauled up S. W., and continued this courfe till noon the next day, when our latitude was 560 4' S., longi- Friday 14* tude i2z° 1' Weft. The wind having veered to the North, 6 and. 1774. and the fog continuing, I hauled to the Eaft, under courfes January. 1 • i <• n « • - ,m ■ « w—a-' and dole reefed topfails. But tins fad we could not carry long; for before eight o'clock in the evening, the wind increafed to a(perfed florin, and obliged us to lye to, under the mizzen- Smiday 16. Rayfail, till the morning of the 16th, when the wind having a good deal abated, and veered to Weft, we fet the courfes, reefed topfails, and ftood to the South. Soon after, the weather cleared up; and, in the evening, we found the latitude to be 56° 48' longitude 1190 8' Weft. We continued to fleer to the South, inclining to tbc Eaft, Tuefday 18. till the 18th, when we ftood to the S. W. with the wind at S. E., being at this time in the latitude of 6i° 9' South, longitude 116° 7' Weft. At ten o'clock in the evening, it fell Wednefd. 19. calm, which continued till two the next morning, when a breeze fprung up at North, which foon after increafed to a frefh gale, and fixed at N. E. With this we fleered South till noon, Thurfday 20. on the qom, when, being now in the latitude of 620 34' South, longitude 116° 24/ Weft, we were again becalmed. In this fituation we had two ice iflands in fight, one of which feemed to be as large as any we had feen. It could not be lefs than two hundred feet in height, and terminated in a peak not unlike the cupola of St. Paul's church. At this time we had a great wefterly fwell, which made it improbable that any land fliould lie between us and the meridian of 133i°, which was our longitude, under the latitude we were now in, when we ftood to the North. In all this route we bad not feen the leaft thing that could induce us to thmkw*e were ever in the neigbbourhood of any land. Wc had, indeed, frequently feen pieces of fca-wced; but this, I am well aflured, is no fjgn of the vicinity of land ; for weed is feen in every part of the ocean. After a few hours calm, 3 we we got a wind from S. E.; but it was very unfcttled, and at- T773- tended with thick fnow mowers; at length it fixed at S. by E„ vj!!^2L/ and we Rretched to the EaR. The wind blew frefli, was piercing cold, and attended with fnow and fleet. On the 22d, being in the latitude of 620 5' South, longi- SaturJay 22, tude ri2° 24' Weft, we faw an ice ifland, an antarctic petered, feveral blue peterels, and fome other known birds ; but no one thing that gave us the leaft hopes of finding land. On the 23d at noon, we were in the latitude of 62Q 22' S., Sunday 23, longitude no0 24'. In the afternoon, we paffed an ice ifland. The wind, which blew frefh, continued to veer to the Weft ; and at eight o'clock the next morning, it was to the North of Monday 24. Weft, when I fleered S. by W. and S. S. W. At this time we were in the latitude of 630 20' South, longitude i©8° ?' Weft, and had a great fea from S. W. We continued this courfe till noon the next day the 25th, when we fleered due South. Tuefday *5. Our latitude, at this time, was 650 24' South, longitude 109* 31' Weft; the wind was at North ; the weather mild, and not unpleafant; and not a bit of ice in view. This we thought a little extraordinary; as it was but a month before, and not quite two hundred leagues to the Eaft, that we were, in a manner, blocked up with large iflands of ice, in this very latitude. Saw a fingle pintadoe peterel, fome blue peterels, and a few brown albatrofles. In the evening, being under the fame meridian, and in the latitude of 650 44' South, the variation was 190 27'Eaft; but the next morning, in the la- wednef. 26. titude of 66° 20' South, longitude the fame as before, it was only 180 20' Eaft: probably the mean between the two, is the neareft the truth. At this time, wchad nine fmall iflands in fight; and foon after, we came, the third time, within the antarctic polar circle, in the longitude of 1090 31'Weft. M in About 1774. About noon, feeing the appearance of land to the S. E., we Jj^Z—J immediately trimmed our fails and Rood towards it. Soon e0<'2 after it disappeared, but wc did not give it up till eight o'clock Thurfday 27, the next morning, when we were well affured that it was nothing but clouds, or a fog bank; and then we relumed our courfe to the South, with a gentle breeze at N. E., attended with a thick fog, fnow, and fleet. We now began to meet with ice iflands more frequently than before ; and, in the latitude of 69° 38' South, longitude ic8° 12' Weft, we fell in with a field of loofe ice. As we began to be in want of water, I hoiftcd out two boats and took up as much as yielded about ten tons. This was cold work, but it, was now familiar to us. As foon as we had done, wc hoiftcd in the boats, and afterwards made fhort boards over that part of the fea we had, in fome meafure, made ourfelves acquainted with. For we had now fo thick a fog that we could not fee two hundred yards round us; and as we knew not the extent of the loofe ice, I durft not fleer to the South till we had clear weather. Thus wTe fpent the night, or rather that part of the twenty-four hours which anfwered to night; for we had no darknefs but what was occafioned by fogs. Saturday 29. At four o'clock in the morning of the 29th, the fog began to clear away ; and the day becoming clear and ferenc, we again fleered to the South with a gentle gale at N. E. and N.. N. E. The variation was found to be 220 41' E. This was in the latitude of 690 45' South, longitude io3° 5 Weft - and, in the afternoon, being in the fame longitude, and in the latitude of 700 23' South, it was 240 8i' Eaft. Soon after, the fky became clouded, and the air very cold. We continued our courfe to the South, and paffed a piece of weed covered with 8 barnacles* barnacles, which a brown albatrofs was picking off. At ten *774- •n j Jatiuarjr. o'clock, we paffed a very large ice llland; it was not lefs 1-----» than three or four miles in circuit. Several more being feen £aturda- 2(> ahead, and the weather becoming foggy, we hauled the wind to the Northward; but in lefs than two hours, the weather cleared up, and we again Rood South. On the 30th, at four o'clock in the morning, we perceived s«h%30. the clouds, over the horizon to the South, to be of an unufual fnow-whitc brightnefs, which we knew denounced our approach to field-icc. Soon after, it was feen from the top-malt head; and at eight o'clock, we were clofe to its edge. It extended Eaft and Weft, far beyond the reach of our fight. In the fituation we were in, juft the fouthern half of our horizon was illuminated, by the rays of light reflected from the ice, to a confiderable height. Ninety-fevcn ice hills were diftinctly feen within the field, befides thofe on the outfide ; many of them very large, and looking like a ridge of mountains, rifing one above another till they were loft in the clouds. The outer, or northern edge of this im~ menfe field, was compofcd of loofe or broken ice clofe packed together ; fo that it was not pofliblc for any thing to enter it. This was about a mile broad; within which was folid ice in one continued compact body. It was rather low and flat, (except the hills) but feemed to increafc in height, as you traced it to the South; in which direction it extended beyond our fight. Such mountains of ice as thefe, were, I believe, never feen in the Greenland Seas ; at leaft, not that I ever heard or read of; fo that we cannot draw a companion between the ice here, and there. It muft be allowed that thefe prodigious ice mountains muft add fuch additional weight to the ice fields which inclofe them, as cannot but M m 2 make 1773- make a great difference between the navigating this icy fea fanuary. . J v_—y-f and that of Greenland. Sunday 30. I will not fay it was impoflible any where to get farther to the South ; but the attempting it would have been a dangerous and rafh enterprife, and what, I believe, no man in my fituation would have thought of. It was, indeed, my opinion, as well as the opinion of moft on board, that this ice extended quite to the pole, or perhaps joined to fome land, to which it had been fixed from the earlieft time ; and that it is here, that is to the South of this parallel, where all the ice we find fcattered up and down to the North, is firft formed, and afterwards broken off by gales of wind, or other caufes, and brought to the North by the currents, which we always found to fet in that direction in the high latitudes. As we drew near this ice fome penguins were heard, but none feen ; and but few other birds, or any other thing, that could induce us to think any land was near. And yet I think, there muft be fome to the South behind this ice; but if there is, it can afford no better retreat for birds, or any other animals, than the ice itfclf, with which it muft be wholly covered. I, who had* ambition not only to go farther than any one had been before, but as far as it was poffible for man to go, was not forry at meeting with this interruption ; as it, in fome meafure, relieved us ; at leaft, fhortened the dangers and hardfhips infeparablc from the navigation of the fouthern polar regions. Since therefore we could not proceed one inch farther to the South, no other reafon need beaffigned for my tacking, and ftanding back to the North;, fjeing at this time in the latitude of 71° io' South, longitude 1060 54' Weft. It It was happy for us, that the weather was clear when we 1773. fell in with this ice, and that we difcovered it fo foon as we . -,an"ary- f did ; for we had no fooner tacked than we were involved in Sunday 3°* a thick fog. The wind was at EaR, and blew a frefli breeze • fo that we were able to return back over that fpace we had already made ourfelves acquainted with. At noon, the mercury in the thermometer flood at 32 4, and we found the air exceedingly cold. The thick fog continuing with fhowcrs of fnow, gave a coat of ice to our rigging of near an inch thick. In the afternoon of the next day the fog cleared Monday 3,. away at intervals; but the weather was cloudy and gloomy, and the air exceflively cold; however, the fea within our horizon was clear of ice. We continued to fland to the North with the wind eaflerly till the afternoon, on the iR of February, when falling in February, with fome loofe ice which had broken from an ifland to Tuefdayj-windward, we hoifled out two boats, and having taken fome on board, refumed our courfe to the North and N. E., with gentle breezes from the S. E., attended fometimes with fair weather, and at other times with fnow and fleer. On the 4th Ffidl we were in the latitude of 650 42' South, longitude 990 44'. The next day the wind was very unfcttlcd both in ftrength and pofition, and attended with fnow and fleet. At length on the 6th, after a few hours calm, wc got a breeze at South, Sunday 6. which foon after frefhened, fixed at W. S. W., and was attended with fnow and fleet. I now came to a refolution to proceed to the North, and to > fpend the enfuing winter within the Tropic, if 1 met with no employment before I came there. I was now well fatisficd no continent was to be found in this ocean, but what muft lie fo far to the South as to be wholly inacceflible on account of ice; and that, if one fhould be found in the Southern Atlantic Ocean* Ocean, it would be neceflary to have the whole fummer before us to explore it. On>the other hand, upon a fuppofition that there is no land there, we undoubtedly might have reached the Cape of Good Hope by April, and fo have put an end to the expedition, fo far as it related to the finding a continent; which indeed was the firft object of the voyage. But for me, at this time, to have quitted this Southern Pacific Ocean, with a good fhip exprefsly fent out on difcoveries, a healthy crew, and not in want either of Rores or of provifions, would have been betraying not only a want of perfe-verance, but of judgment, in fuppofing the South Pacific Ocean to have been fo well explored, that nothing remained to be done in it. This, however, was not my opinion; for, although I had proved there was no continent but what muft lie far to the South, there remained, neverthelefs, room for very large iflands in places wholly unexamined: and many of thofe which were formerly difcovered, are but imperfectly explored, and their fituations as imperfectly known. I was befides of opinion, that my remaining in this fea fome time longer, would be productive of improvements in navigation and geography, as well as other fciences. I had feveral times communicated my thoughts on this fubject to Captain Furneaux ; but as it then wholly depended on what wc might meet with to the South, I could not give it in orders, without running the rifque of drawing us from the main object. Since now nothing had happened to prevent me from carrying thefe views into execution, my intention was firft to go in fearch of the land, faid to have been difcovered by Juan Fernandez, above a century ago, in about the latitude of 380 ; if I mould fail in finding this this land, then to go in fearch of Eafter Ifland or Davis's i?74« Land, whofe fituation was known with fo little certainty, u-lj^l that the attempts lately made to find it had mifcarried. I Sunda) 6' next intended to get within the Tropic, and then proceed to the Weft, touching at, and fettling the fituarions of inch iflands as wc might meet with till we arrived at Otaheite, where it was neceffary I fhould flop to look for the Adventure. I had alfo thoughts of running as far WcR as the Tierra Auffral del Ffpiritu Santo, difcovered by Quiros, and which M. de Bougainville calls the Great Cyclades. Quiros fpeaks of this land as being large, or lying in the neighbourhood of large lands; and as this was a point which Bougainville had neither confirmed nor refuted, I thought it was worth clearing up. From this land my defign was to fleer to the South, and fo back to the Eafl: between the latitudes of 50° and 6o° ; intending, if poflible, to be the length of Cape Horn in November next, when we fliould have the befl part of the fummer before us to explore the fouthern part of the Atlantic Ocean. Great as this defign appeared to be, I however thought it poflible to be executed; and when I came to communicate it to the officers, 1 had the fatisfaction to find, that they all heartily concurred in it. I mould not do thefe gentlemen juflice, if I did not take fome opportunity to declare, that they always fhewed the utmofl readinefs to carry into execution, in the moR effectual manner, every meafure 1 thought proper to take. Under fuch circumftances, it is hardly neceffary to fay, that the feamen were always obedient and alert; and, on this occafion, they were fo far from wifhing the voyage at an end, that they rejoiced at the profpect of its being prolonged another year* and of foon enjoying the benefits of a milder climate. I now ■1/73. T now fleered North inclining to the Eafl, and in the February. . a -, evening we were overtaken by a furious ftorm at W. S. W., Sunday attended with fnow and fleet. It came fo fuddenly upon us, that before we could take in our fails, two old top-fails, which we had bent to the yards, were blown to pieces, and the other fails much damaged. The gale lafled, without the leafl in-Mmday 7. termiflion, till the next morning, when it began to abate ; it, Saturday 12, however, continued to blow very frefh till noon on the 12th, when it ended in a calm. At this time we were in the latitude of 500 14/ South, longitude 95Q 18' Weft. Some birds being about the fhip, we took the advantage of the calm to put a boat in the water, and fhot feveral birds, on which we fcalled the next day. One of thefe birds was of that fort, which has been fo often mentioned in this journal, under the name of Port Egmont hens. They are of the gull kind, about the fize of a raven, with a dark brown plumage, except the under fide of each wing, where there are fome white feathers. The reft of the birds were albatrofles and fheer-waters. After a few hours calm, having got a breeze at N. W., we made aftretch to the S. W. for twenty-four hours ; in which route we faw a piece of wood, a bunch of weed, and a diving peterel. The wind having veered more to the Weft, made Monti ay* 14. US tack and ftretch to the North till noon on the 14th, at which time we were in the latitude of 490 32' South, longitude 950 n' Weft. We had now calms and light breezes Tuefday 15. fucceeding each other, till the next morning, when the wind frefhened at W. N. W. and was attended with a thick fog and drizzling rain the three following days, during which time we flretched to the North, inclining to the Eaft, and crofted my track to Otaheite in 1769. I did intend to have kept 7 more more to the Weft, but the flrong winds from that direction w *J7u rebruary. put it out of my power, w-n— On the eighteenth, the wind veered to S. W. and blew very pryiy ts, frefli, but was attended with clear weather, which gave us an opportunity to afcertain our longitude by feveral lunar obfervations made by MefTrs. Wales, Clarke, Gilbert, and Smith. The mean rcfult of all, was 94° 19' 30" Weft j Mr. Kendal's watch, at the fame time, gave 94^ 46' Weft; our latitude was 430 53' South. The wind continued not long at S. W. before it veered back to Weft and W. N. W. As we advanced to the North, we felt a moft fcnfible Sooty *6< change in the weather. The 20th, at noon, we were in the latitude of 390 58' South, longitude 940 37' Weft. The day was clear and pleafant, and I may fay, the only maimer's day we had had, fince we left New Zealand. The mercury in the thermometer rofe to 66. Wc full continued to fleer to the North, as the wind re- Monday 21. mained in the old quarter; and the next day, at noon, we were in the latitude 370 54' South; which was the fame that Juan Fernandez's difcovery is faid to lie in. We, how-ever, had not the leaft figns of any land lying in our neighbourhood. The next day, at noon, we were in latitude 360 10' South, Tuefday 22. longitude 94° 56' Weft. Soon after, the wind veered to S. S. E., and enabled us to fleer W. S, W., which I thought the moft probable direction to find the land of which we were in fearch ; and yet I had no hopes of fucceeding, as we had a large hollow fwell from the fame point. We, however, continued this courfe till the 25th, when, the wind having Friday25. veered again round to the weftward, I gave it up, and ftood N n away away to the North, in order to get into the latitude of Eafter Uland : our latitude, at this time, was 370 52', longitude 1010 10' Weft. I was now well affured that the difcovery of Juan Fernandez, if any fuch was ever made, can be nothing but a fmall ifland; there being hardly room for a large land, as will fully appear by the tracks of Captain Wallis, Bougainville, of the Endeavour, and this of the Refolution. Whoever wants to fee an account of the difcovery in queftion, will meet with it in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South Seas. This gentleman places it under the meridian of 900, where I think it cannot be; for M. de Bougainville feems to have run down under that meridian; and we had now examined the latitude in which it is faid to lie, from the meridian of 940 to 101'. It is not probable it can lie to the Eaft of 900 ; becaufe if it did, it muft have been feen, at one time or other, by fliips bound from the northern to the fouthern parts of America. Mr. Pengre, in a little trcatife concerning the Tranfit of Venus publifhed in 17G8, gives^ fome account of land having been difcovered by the Spaniards in 1714, in the latitude of 380, and 550 leagues from the coaft of Chili, which is in the longitude of ixo° or 1110 Weft, and within a degree or two of my track in the Endeavour; fo that this can hardly be its fituation. In fhort, the only probable fituation it can have, muft be about the meridian of 106° or 1080 Weft ; and then it can only be a fmall ifle, as I have already obferved. I was now taken ill of the bilious cholic, which was fo violent as to confine me to my bed ; fo that the management of the fhip was left to Mr. Cooper the firft officer, who conducted her very much to my fatisfaction. It was feveral $ days AND ROUND THE W O R L I). 2"* ^ days before the moft dangerous fymptoms of my diforder '77* were removed; during which time Mr. Patten the furgeon ^—«—j was to me, not only a fkilful phyftcian, but an affectionate tnday *5' nurfe ; and I fliould ill deferve the care he bcftowed on me, if I did not make this public acknowledgment. When I began to recover, a favourite dog belonging to Mr. Forfler fell a facrifice to my tender ftomach. We had no other frefli meat whatever on board; and I could eat of this flefh, as well as broth made of it, when I could tafte nothing elfe. Thus I received nouriflimcnt and ftrength, from food which would have made moft people in Europe fick: fo true it is, that nc-ceftity is governed by no law. On the 28th, in the latitude of 330 7' South, longitude Monday =3* 103* 33' Weft, we began to fee flying-fiili, egg-birds, and nodies, which are faid not to go above fixty or eighty leagues from land; but of this wc have no certainty. No one yet knows to what diftance any of the oceanic birds go to fea; for my own part, I do not believe there is one in the whole tribe that can be relied on, in pointing out the vicinity of land. In the latitude of 300 30' South, longitude 1010 45' Weft, we began to fee men of war birds. In the latitude of 290 44', longitude ioo° 45' Weft, we had a calm for near two days together, during which time the heat was intolerable; but what ought to be remarked, was a very great fwell from the i* W. ' Mircli. On the fixth of March the calm was fucceeded by an Sunday 0. eafterly wind, with which we fleered N. W. till noon the 8th, when, being in the latitude of 270 4' South, longitude Tuefday 3. 103° 5$' Weft, we fleered Weft; meeting every day with N n 2 great 1774. great numbers of birds, fuch as men of war, tropic, and !_ ' ' egg-hirds, nodies, fheer-waters, &c. and once wc paffed feve-Tuefday 8. ^ pieces of fponge, and a fmall dried leaf not unlike a bay one. Soon after, we law a fea make, in every refpcel like thofe we had before feen at the Tropical Iflands. We alfo faw plenty of fifh, but were fuch bad fifliers that wc caught only four albacorcs, which were very acceptable, to me efpe-ciall, who was juR recovering from my late illncfs. CHAP. VII. Friday II, Sequel of the Paffage from Nezv Zealand to Eafter If andy and TranfaQiom there, with an Account of an Expedition to difcover the Inland Part of the Country, and a Defcription of fome of the furprifing gigantic Statues found in the If and, A T eight o'clock in the morning on the nth, land was JLjL feen, from the mail-head, bearing Wed; and at noon from the deck, extending from W. I N. to W. by S., about twelve leagues diftant. I made no doubt that this was Davis's Land, or Eafter Ifland; as its appearance from this fituation, correfponded very well with Wafer's account; and we expected to have feen the low fandy ifle that Davis fell in with, which would have been a confirmation; but in this we were difappointed. At feven o'clock in the evening, the ifland bore from N. 62° Weft to North Sf Weft, about five leagues diftant; in which ficuation we founded without finding ground with a line of an hundred and forty fathoms. Here wc fpent the night, having alternately light airs and calms, EASTEK I SLAISTD, Loiu/ihale lot) .. 4(7., 2o,W;of Greenwich . calms, till ten o'clock the next morning, when a breeze T774* r- . , , . L March. fprung up at W. S. W. With this we Rretched in for the \—,— land; and by the help of our glafs, difcovered people, and SjUU fome of thofe coloRian flatties or idols mentioned by the: authors of Roggewin's Voyage *, At four o'clock in the P. M. we were half a league S. S. E. and N. N. W. of the N. E. point of the ifland; and, on founding, found thirty-five fathoms, a dark fandy bottom. I-now tacked and endeavoured to get into what appeared to be a bay, on the Wed fide of the point or S. E. fide of the ifland; but before this could be accomplished, night came upon us, and we flood on and oflf, under the land, till the next morning; having foundings from feventy-fivc to an hundred and.ten fathoms,, the fame bottom as before. On the 13th, about eight o'clock in the morning, the wind, fwhy 13. which had been variable mofl part of the night, fixed at S. E., and blew in fqualls, accompanied with rain; but it was not long before the weather became fair. As the wind now blew right on the S. E. fhore, which does not afford that flicker I at firft thought, I refolved to look for anchorage on the Weft and N. W. fides of the ifland. With this view I bore up round the South point;.oflf which lie two fmall iflots ; the one, neareft the point, high and peaked, and the other low and flattifh. After getting round the point, and coming before a fandy beach, we found foundings thirty and forty fathoms, fandy ground, and about one. mile from the fhore. Here a canoe conducted by two men, came off to us. '1 hey brought with them a bunch of plantains, which they fent into the fhip by a rope, and then they returned afliore. This gave us a good opinion of the iflanders, and infpired us with: * See Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages, vol. z- hopes i 1774- hopes of getting fome refreshments, which wc were in great March. r fa . j want nf_ Sunday 1 3. want of. I continued to range along the coaft, till we opened the northern point of the ifle, without feeing a better anchoring-place than the one we had paffed. We, therefore, tacked, and plied back to it; and, in the mean time, fent away the matter, in a boat to found the coaft.. He returned about five o'clock in the evening; and, foon-after, we came to an anchor in thirty-fix fathoms water, before the fandy beach above mentioned. As the mailer drew near the fhore with the boat, one of the natives fwam ofTto her, and infiftcd on coming aboard the fhip, where he remained two nights and a day. The firft thing he did after coming aboard, was to meafure the length of the fhip, by fathoming her from the tailarel to the ftern ; and, as he counted the fathoms, we obferved that he called the numbers by the fame names that they do at Otaheite; ncvcrthelefs his language was, in a manner, wholly unintelligible to all of us. Having anchored too near the edge of the bank, a frefh Monday 14, breeze from the land, about three o'clock the next morning, drove us off it; on which the anchor was heaved up, and fail made to regain the bank again. While the fhip was plying in, I went afhore, accompanied by fome of the gentlemen, to fee what the ifland was likely to afford us. We landed at the fandy beach, where fome hundreds of the natives were affcmbled, and who were fo impatient to fee us, that many of them fwam off to meet the boats. Not one of them had fo much as a flick or weapon of any fort in their hands. After diftributing a few trinkets amongft them, we made figns for fomething to cat; on which they .brought down a few potatoes, plantains, and fugar-canes, and and exchanged them for nails, looking-glafTes, and pieces V774* of cloth. 1 Monday 14. We prefently difcovered that they were as expert thieves, and as tricking in their exchanges, as any people we had yet met with. It was with fome difficulty we could keep the hats on our heads ; but hardly poflible to keep any thing in our pockets, not even what themfelves had fold us ; for they would watch every opportunity to match it from us, fo that we fometimes bought the fame thing two or three times over, and after all did not get it. Before I failed from England, I was informed that a Spa-nifli fhip had viflted this ifle in 1769. Some figns of it were feen among the people now about us ; one man had a pretty good broad brimmed European hat on ; another had a grego jacket; and another a red fllk handkerchief. They alfo feemed to know the ufe of a mufquet, and to fland in much awe of it; but this they probably learnt from Roggewin, who, if we are to believe the authors of that voyage, left them fuflicicnt tokens. Near the place where we landed, were fome of thofe flatties before mentioned, which I fhall defcribe in another place. The country appeared barren and without wood ; there were, nevertheless, feveral plantations of potatoes, plantains and fugar-canes; we alfo faw fome fowls, and found a well of brackifh water. As thefe were articles we were in want of, and as the natives feemed not unwilling to part with them, I refolvcd to Ray a day or two. With this view, I repaired on board, and brought the fhip to an anchor in thirty-two fathoms water; the bottom a fine dark fand, Our flation was about a mile from the ncareft fhore, the South point of a fmall bay, in die bottom of which is the fandy fandy beach before mentioned, being E. S. E., diftant one mile and an half. The two rocky iftots lying off the South point of the ifland, were juft fliut behind a point to the North of them; they bore South ± Weft, four miles diftant; and the other extreme of the ifland bore N. 250 E., diftant about fix miles. But the beft mark for this anchoring-place is the beach ; becaufc it is the only one on this fide the ifland. In the afternoon, we got on board a few calks of water, and opened a trade with the natives for fuch things as they had to difpofc of. Some of the gentlemen alfo made an excurfion into the country to fee what it produced; and returned again in the evening, with the lofs only of a hat, which one of the natives matched off the head of one of the party. Early next morning, I fent Lieutenants Pickerfgill and Edgcumbc with a party of men, accompanied by feveral of the gentlemen, to examine the country. As I was not fufli-cicntly recovered from my late illnefs to make one of the party, I was obliged to content myfelf with remaining at the landing-place among the natives. We had, atone time, a pretty brifk trade with them for potatoes, which we obferved they dug up out of an adjoining plantation ; but this traffic, which was very advantageous to us, was foon put a flop to, by the owner (as wc fuppofed) of the plantation coming down, and driving all the people out of it. By this we concluded, that he had been robbed of his property, and that they were not lefs fcrupulous of flealing from one another, than from us, on whom they practifed every little fraud they could think on, and generally with fuccefs; for wc no fooner detected them in one, than they found out another. About feven o'clock in the evening, the party I had fent into the country returned, after having been over the greateft part of the ifland. * They Tuefday 15. They left the beach about nine o'clock in the morning, *774- J 0 March. and took a path which led acrofs to the S, E. fide of the ifland, followed by a great crowd of the natives, who prefled much upon them. But they had not proceeded far, before a middler aged man, punctured from head to foot, and his face painted with a fort of white pigment, appeared with a fpear in his hand, and walked along-fldc of them, making figns to his countrymen to keep at a diftance, and not to moleft our people. When he had pretty well effected this, he hoiftcd a piece of white cloth on his fpcar, placed himfelf in the front, and led the way, with his enfign of peace, as they under-ftood it to be. Eor the grcatcft part of the diftance acrofs, the ground had but a barren appearance, being a dry hard clay, and every where covered with flones; but notwith-flanding this, there were feveral large tracks planted with potatoes; and fome plantain walks, but they faw no fruit on any of the trees. Towards the higheft part of the South end. of the ifland, the foil, which was a fine red earth, feemed much better; bore a longer grafs ; and was not covered with, ftones as in the other parts; but here they faw neither houfe. nor plantation. On the Eaft fide, near the fea, they met with three platforms of ftone-work, or rather the ruins of them. On each had ftood four of thofe large flatues, but they were all fallen down from two of them, and alfo one from the third; all except one were broken by the fall, or in fome meafure defaced. Mr. Wales meafured this one, and found it to be fifteen feet in length, and fix feet broad over the fhoulders. Each ftatue had on its head a large cylindric ftone of a red colour, wrought perfectly round. The one they meafured, which was not by far the largeft, was fifty-two inches high, and fixty-fix in diameter. In fome the upper corner of the Vol. I. O o cylindex'* 1774- cylinder was taken off in a fort of concave quarter-round ; March. , . -1 out in others the cylinder was entire. Tuefday ij. From this place they followed the direction of the coaR to the N. E., the man with the flag Rill leading the way, for about three miles they found the country very barren, and in fome places Rript of the foil to the bare rock, which feemed to be a poor fort of iron ore. Beyond this, they came to the moR fertile part of the ifland they faw, it being inter-fpcrfed with plantations of potatoes, fugar-canes, and plantain trees, and thefe not fo much encumbered with ftones as thofe which they had feen before; but they could find no water except what the natives twice or thrice brought them, which, though brackifh and flinking, was rendered acceptable, by the extremity of their thirft. They alfo paffed fome huts, the owners of which met them with roaftcd potatoes and fugar-canes, and placing themfelves ahead of the fore-moft of the party, (for they marched in a line in order to liave the benefit of the path) gave one to each man as he paffed by. They obferved the fame method in diftributing the water which they brought; and were particularly careful that the foremoft did not drink too much, leaft none fhould be left for the hindmoft. But at the very time thefe were relieving the thirfty and hungry, there were not wanting others, who endeavoured to fteal from them the very things which had been given them. At laft, to prevent worfe confequences, they were obliged to fire a load of fmall fhot at one who was fo audacious as to match from one of the men the bag which contained every thing they carried with them. The fhot hit him on the back; on which he dropped the bag, ran a little way, and then fell; but he afterwards got up and walked, and what became of him they knew not, nor whether he was much wounded. As 8 this this affair occafioned fome delay, and drew the natives to- x77'f- March. gether, they prefently faw the man who had hitherto led <-/— , , Tuefday i the way, and one or two more, coming running towards them; but infteadof flopping when they came up, they continued to run round them, repeating, in a kind manner, a few words, until our people fet forwards again. Then their old guide hoifled his flag, leading the way as before, and none ever attempted to Real from them the whole day afterwards. As they paffed along, they obferved on a hill a number of people collected together, fome of whom had fpears in their hands; but, on being called to by their countryman, they difperfed ; except a few, amongfl whom was one feemingly of fome note. He was a flout well-made man, with a fine open countenance, his face was painted, his body punctured, and he wore a better Ha hou, or cloth, than the refl. He faluted them as he came up, by flretching out his arms, with both hands clinched, lifting them over his head, opening them wide, and then letting them fall gradually down to his fides. To this man, whom they underflood to be the chief of the ifland, their other friend gave his white flag ; and he gave it to another, who carried it before them the remainder ©f the day. Towards the eaflern end of the ifland, they met with a. well whofe water was perfectly frefli, being confiderably above the level of the fea; but it was dirty, owing to the filthinefs or cleanlinefs (call it which you will) of the natives, who never go to drink without wafhing themfclves all over as foon as they have done; and if ever fo many of them are together, the firft leaps right into the middle of the hole, Oo 2 drinks.. 1774. drinks, and wafhes himfelf without the leafl ceremony; af- March. ' * «—-v-' ter which another takes his place and does the fame. Tuefday 15. They obferved that this fide of the ifland was full of thofe gigantic flatucs fo often mentioned ; fome placed in groupcs on platforms of mafonry; others fingle, fixed only in the earth, and that not deep ; and thefe latter are, in general, much larger than the others. Having meafured one, which had fallen down, they found it very near twenty-feven feet long, and upwards of eight feet over the breafl or flioulders; and yet this appeared confidcrably fhort of the fize of one they faw Handing: its fhade, a little paft two o'clock, being fuflicient to flicker all the party, confiding of near thirty perfons, from the rays of the fun. Here they flopped to dine ; after which they repaired to a hill, from whence they faw all the Eaft and North fhorcs of the ifle, on which they could not fee either bay or creek fit even for a boat to land in ; nor the leaft figns of frefh water. What the natives brought them here was real fait water; but they obferved that fome of them drank pretty plentifully of it, fo far will neccflity and cuftom get the better of nature ! On this account they were obliged to return to the lafl-mcntioncd well; where, after having quenched their thirft, they directed their route acrofs the ifland towards the fhip, as it was now four o'clock. In a fmall hollow, on the higheft part of the ifland, they met with feveral fuch cylinders as are placed on the heads of the ftatues. Some of thefe appeared larger tlian any they had feen before; but it was now too late to ftop tomeafure any of them. Mr. Wales, from whom I had this information, is of opinion that there had been a quarry here, whence 7 thefe thefe Rones had formerly been dug ; and that it would have l77\- March. been no difficult matter to roll them down the hill after c—^1 they were formed. I think this a very reafonable conjecture; 1 ueld'y 1 and have no doubt that it has been fo. On the declivity of the mountain towards the Weft, they met with another well; but the water was a very flrong mineral, had a thick green fcum on the top, and flunk intolerably. Neceflity, however, obliged fome to drink of it; but it foon made them fo fick, that they threw it up the fame way it went down. In all this excurfton, as well as the one made the preceding day, only two or three flirubs were feen. The leaf and feed of one (called by the natives TorromedoJ were not much unlike thofe of the common vetch ; but the pod was more like that of a tamarind in its fize and fhapc. The feeds have a difagreeable bitter tafte; and the natives, when they faw our people chew them, made figns to fpit them out; from whence it was concluded that they think them poifonous. The wood is of a redifh colour, and pretty hard and heavy; but very crooked, fmall, and fhort, not exceeding fix or feven feet in height. At the S. W. corner of the ifland, they found another fmall fhrub, whofe wood was white and brittle, and in fome meafure, as alfo its leaf, rcfembling the afli. They alfo faw in feveral places the Otaheitean cloth plant; but it was poor and weak, and not above two and a half feet high at moft. They faw not an animal of any fort, and but very few birds; nor indeed any thing which can induce fhips that are not in the utmoft diftrefs, to touch at this ifland. This *774« This account of the excurfion I had from Mr. Pickerfgill c—,-r and Mr. Wales, men on whofe veracity I could depend; and, j »5- therefore, I determined to leave the ifland the next morning, flnce nothing was to be obtained that could make it worth my while to flay longer; for the water which we had fent on board, was not much better than if it had been taken up out of the fea. Wednef. 16. We had a calm till ten o'clock in the morning of the 16th,, when a breeze fprung up at Well, accompanied with heavy fhowers of rain, which lafled about an hour. The weather then clearing up, we got under fail, ftood to fea, and kept plying to and fro, while an officer was fent on fhore with two boats, to puichafe fuch refrefhments as the natives might have brought down; fori judged this would be the cafe, as they knew nothing of our failing. The event proved that I was not miftaken; for the boats made two trips be-fore night; when we hoifled them in, and made fail to the N. W., with a light breeze at N. N. E, CHAP, CHAP VIII. A Defcription of the If and, its Produce, Situation, and Inhabitants-, their Manners and Cufioms \ ConjeElures concerning their Government Religion, and other Sub-jetls ; with a more particular Account of the gigantic Statues* ISHALL now give fome farther account of this ifland, which is undoubtedly the fame that admiral Roggewin Mure, touched at in April 1722; although the defcription given of it by the authors of that voyage does by no means agree with it now. It may alfo be the fame that was feen by Captain Davis in 1686; for, when feen from the Eaft, it anfwers very well to Wafer's defcription, as I have before obferved. In (hort, if this is not the land, his difcovery cannot lie far from the coaft of America, as this latitude has been well explored from the meridian of 8o° to no°. Captain Carteret carried it much farther; but his track feems to have been a little too far South. Had I found frefli water, I intended fpending fome days in looking for the low fandy ifle Davis fell in with, which would have determined the point: But as I did not find water, and had a long run to make before I was affured of getting any j and being in want of re-frefhments, I declined the fearch; as a fmall delay might have been attended with bad confequences to the crew, many of them beginning to be more or lefs affected with the fcurvy. No No nation need contend for the honour of the difcovery of this ifland ; as there can be few places which afford lefs convenience for fhipping than it does. Here is no fafe anchorage ; no wood for fuel; nor any frefli water worth taking on board. Nature has been exceedingly fparing of her favours to this fpot. As every thing muft be raifed by dint of labour, it cannot be fuppofed the inhabitants plant much more than is fuflicicnt for themfelves ; and as they are but few in number, they cannot have much to fpare to fupply the wants of vifitant ftrangers. The produce is fweet potatoes, yams, taraoreddy root, plantains, and fugar-canes, all pretty good, the potatoes efpecially, which are the beft of the kind I ever tafted. Gourds they have alfo; but fo very few, that a cocoa-nut fhcll was the moft valuable thing we could give them. They have a few tame fowls fuch as cocks and hens, fmall but well tafted. They have alfo rats, which, it feems, they eat; for I faw a man with fome dead ones in his hand; and he feemed unwilling to part with them, giving mc to underftand they were for food. Land birds there were hardly any; and fea birds but few; thefe were, men of war, tropic, and egg birds, nodies, tern, &c. The coaft feemed not to abound with fifh; at leaft we could catch none with hook and line, and it was but very little we faw amongft the natives. Such is the produce of Eafter Ifland, or Davis's Land, which is fituatcd in the latitude of 270 / 30" S., longitude 109 0 46' 20" Well. It is about ten or twelve leagues in circuit, hath a hilly and ftony furface, and an iron bound lhore. The hills are of fuch an height as to be feen fifteen or flxteen leagues i off the South end, are two rocky iflots, lying near the fhore: the North and Eaft points of the ifland rife rife directly from the fea to a confiderable height; between them, on the S. E. fide, the more forms an open bay, in which I believe the Dutch anchored. We anchored, as hath been already mentioned, on the Weft fide of the ifland, three miles to the North of the South point, with the fandy beach bearing E. S. E. This is a very good road with eafterly winds, but a dangerous one with wcfterly, as the other on the S. E. fide muft be with eafterly winds. For this, and other bad accommodations already mentioned, nothing but neceflity will induce any one to touch at this ifle, unlefs it can be done without going much out of the way; in which cafe touching here may be advantageous, as the people willingly and readily part with fuch refrefh-ments as they have, and at an eafy rate. We certainly received great benefit from the little we got; but few fliips can come here without being in want of water, and this want cannot be here fupplied. The little we took on board, could not be made ufe of; it being only fait water which had filtrated through a ftony beach, into a ftone well. This the natives had made for the purpofe, a little to the fouthward of the fandy beach fo often mentioned; and the water ebbed and flowed into it with the tide. The inhabitants of this ifland do not feem to exceed fix or feven hundred fouls, and above two-thirds of thofe we faw were males. They either have but few females among them, or elfe many were reftraincd from making their appearance, during our ftay; for though we faw nothing to induce us to believe the men were of a jealous difpolition, or the women afraid to appear in public, fomething of this kind was probably the cafe. Vol. I. P p In 1774- In colour, features, and language, they bear fuch affinity u.—,--* to the people of the more weftern ifles, that no one will doubt that they have had the fame origin. It is extraordinary that the fame nation ihould have fpread themfelves overall the ifles in this vafl ocean, from New Zealand to this ifland, which is almofl one-fourth part of the circumference of the globe. Many of them have now no other knowledge of each other, than what is preferved by antiquated tradition ; and they have, by length of time, become, as it were, different nations, each having adopted fome peculiar cuflom, or habit, &c. Neverthelefs, a careful obferver will foon fee the affinity each has to the other. In general the people of this ifle are a Render race. I did not fee a man that would meafure fix feet; fo far are they from being giants, as one of the authors of Roggewin's voyage afferts. They are brifk and active, have good features, and not difagreeable countenances, are friendly and hofpitable to flrangers, but as much addicted to pilfering as any of their neighbours, Taioivingi or puncturing the fkin, is much ufed here. The men are marked from head to foot, with figures all nearly alike ; only fome give them one direction, and fome another, as fancy leads. The women are but little punctured j red and white paint is an ornament with them, as alfo with the men; the former is made of tamarick, but what compofes the lat-ter, I know not. Their cloathing is a piece or two of quilted cloth about fix feet by four, or a mat. One piece wrapped round their loins, and another over their fhoulders, make a complete drefs. But the men, for the mofl part, are in a manner naked, 3 wear- Ir**to. Nature by WI Huflges. EngraVd. bjrF.Bartolozzi N?XLYI. OF E AS TER I'S h AND . Ptddot-hed Fetrfi^tffZ (ry W?*S£ra/wjL in Yew Streel S/wc la/ie k T/w- Coded, ut the Stratid London wearing nothing but a flip of cloth betwixt their legs, each end of which is fattened to a cord or belt they wear round the waift. Their cloth is made of the fame materials as at Otaheite, viz. of the bark of the cloth-plant; but, as they have but little of it, our Otaheitean cloth, or indeed any fort of it, came here to a good market. Their hair, in general, is black; the women wear it long, and fometimcs tied up on the crown of the head j but the men wear it, and their beards, cropped fhort. Their head-drefs is a round fillet adorned with feathers, and a ftraw bonnet fomething like a Scotch one; the former, I believe, being chiefly worn by the men, and the latter by the women. Both men and women have very large holes, or rather flits, in their ears, extended to near three inches in length. They fomctimes turn this flit over the upper part, and then the ear looks as if the flap was cut oft'. The chief ear ornaments are the white down of feathers, and rings, which they wear in the infide of the hole, made of fome elaftic fubftance, rolled up like a watch-fpring. 1 judged this was to keep the hole at its utmoft extenfion. I do not remember feeing them wear any other ornaments, excepting amulets made of bone or fliells. As harmlcfs and friendly as thefe people feem to be, they are not without offenfive weapons, fuch as fhort wooden clubs, and fpears ; which latter are crooked flicks about fix feet long, armed at one end with pieces of flint- They have alfo a weapon, made of wood, like the Patoopatoo of New Zealand. Their houfes are low miferable huts, conftrucled by fet-ting flicks upright in the ground, at fix or eight feet diftance, then bending them towards each other, and tying them to- P p 2 gether gcther at the top, forming thereby a kind of Gothic arch. The longeft Ricks are placed in the middle, and fhorter ones each way, and at lcfs diftance afunder ; by which means the building is higheft and broadeft in the middle, and lower and narrower towards each end. To thefe are tied others horizontally, and the whole is thatched over with leaves of fugar-cane. The door-way is in the middle of one fide, formed like a porch, and fo low and narrow, as juft to admit a man to enter upon all fours. The largeft houfe I faw was about fixty feet long, eight or nine feet high in the middle, and three or four at each end; its breadth at thefe parts, was nearly equal to its height. Some have a kind of vaulted houfes built with ftone, and partly under ground; but I never was in one of thefe. I faw no houfehold utenfils amongft them except gourds, and of thefe but very few. They were extravagantly fond of cocoa-nut fliells; more fo than of any thing we could give them. They drefs their victuals in the fame manner as at Otaheite; that is, with hot ftones, in an oven or hole in the ground. The ftraw or tops of fugar-cane, plantain heads, &c. ferve them for fuel to heat the ftones. Plantains, which require but little drefling, they roaft under fires of ft raw, dried grafs, Sec.; and whole races of them are ripened or roafted in this manner. We frequently faw ten, or a dozen, or more, fuch fires in one place, and moft commonly in the mornings and evenings. Not more than three or four canoes were feen on the whole ifland; and thefe very mean, and built of many pieces fewed together with fmall line. They are about eighteen or 20 feet long, head and ftern carved or raifed a little, are very narrow, and fitted with out-riggers. They do do not feem capable of carrying above four perfons, and are, by no means, fit for any diftant navigation.. As fmall and as mean as thefe canoes were, it was a matter of wonder to us, where they got the wood to build them with. For in one of them was a board fix or eight feet long, fourteen inches broad at one end, and eight at the other; whereas we did not fee a ftick on the ifland which would have made aboard half this fize ; nor indeed was there another piece in the whole canoe half fo big. There are two ways by which it is poflible they may have got this large wood: it might have been left here by the Spaniards; or it might have been driven on the fhore of the iiland from fohie diftant land. It is even poflible that there may be fome land in the neighbourhood, from whence they might have got it. We, however, faw no figns of any; nor could we get the leaft information on this head from the natives, although we tried every method we could think of, to obtain it. We were almoft as unfortunate in our inquiries for the proper or native name of the ifland. For, on comparing notes, I found we had got three different names for it, viz. Tamareki, Whyhu, and Teapy. Without pretending to fay which, or whether any of them, is right, I mall only obferve, that the laft was obtained by Oedidee, who underftood their language much better than any of us, though even he underftood it but very imperfectly. It appears by the account of Roggewin's voyage, that thefe people had no better veflels than when he firft vifited them. The want of materials, and not of genius, feems to be the reafon why they have made no improvement in this art. Some pieces of carving were found amongft them, both well deftgned and executed. Their plantations are prettily prettily laid out by line, but not inclofed by any fence ; indeed, they have nothing for this purpofe but Rones. I have no doubt that all thefe plantations are private property, and that there are here, as at Otaheite, chiefs (which they call Areekes) to whom thefe plantations belong. But of the power or authority of thefe chiefs, or of the government of thefe people, I confefs myfelf quite ignorant. Nor are we better acquainted with their religion. The gigantic Ratues, fo often mentioned, are not, in my opinion, looked upon as idols by the prefent inhabitants, whatever they might have been in the days of the Dutch; at leaR, I faw nothing that could induce me to think fo. On the contrary, I rather fuppofe that they are burying-places for certain tribes or families. I, as well as fome others, faw a human fkele-ton lying in one of the platforms, juR covered with Rones. Some of thefe platforms of mafonry are thirty or forty feet long, twelve or fixteen broad, and from three to twelve in height; which laR in fome meafure depends on the nature of the ground. For they are generally at the brink of the bank facing the fea, fo that this face may be ten or twelve feet or more high, and the other may not be above three or four. They are built, or rather faced, with hewn Rones of a very large fize; and the workmanlhip is not inferior to the beft plain piece of mafonry we have in England. They ufe no fort of cement; yet the joints are exceedingly clofe, and the ftones morticed and tenanted one into another, in a very artful manner. The fide walls are not perpendicular, but inclining a little inwards, in the fame manner that brcaft-works, &c. are built in Europe: yet had not all this care, pains, and fagacny, been able to preferve thefe J or Refolution Bay, in the If and of Stt Chriflina* FTER leaving Eafter Ifland, I fleered N. W. by N. and 1774. N. N. W., with a fine eafterly gale, intending to touch at the Marquefas, if I met with nothing before I got there. Wcdllt*l6# We had not been long at fea, before the bilious diforder made another attack upon me, but not fo violent as the former. I believe this fecond vifit was owing to my expofing and fatiguing myfelf too much at Eafter Ifland. On the 22d, being in the latitude of 1 on zd South, longitude TuefJay 22, 1140 49' Weft, fleered N. W. Since leaving Eafter Ifland, the variation had not been more than 30 4', nor lefs than 2° 32' Eaft; but on the 26th, in latitude 15" 7' South, longitude 1190 45' Weft, it was no more than f 1' Eaft; after which it began to incrcafc. On the 29th, being in latitude ioB 20', longitude 123° 58' W., Tucfday w altered the courfe to W. N. W., and the next day to Weft, being then in latitude 90 24', which I judged to be the parallel of Marquefas ; where, as 1 have before obferved, I intended to touch, in order to fettle their fituation, which I find different in different charts. Having now a fteady fettled trade-wind, and pleafant weather, I ordered the forge to be fet up, to repair and make various neceflary articles in the iron way; Vol. L CLq and '774* March. C__v-1 Tuefday zl). Aprif. Sunday 3. Wednef. 6, and the caulkers had already been fome time at work caulking the decks, weather-works, &c. As we advanced to the Weft, wc found the variation to increafe, but flowly; for, on the 3d of April, it was only 40 40'Eaft, being then in the latitude o° 32', longitude 1320 45', by obfervation made at the fame time. I continued to fleer to the Weft till the 6th, at four in the afternoon, at which time, being in the latitude of 90 20', longitude 1380 14' Weft, wc difcovered an ifland, bearing Weft by South, diflant about nine leagues. Two hours after we faw another, bearing S. W. by S., which appeared more cxtenfive than the former. I hauled up for this ifland, and ran under an eafy fail all night, having fqually unfettled rainy weather, which is not very uncommon in this fea, Thurfday 7. when near high land. At fix o'clock the next morning, the firft ifland bore N. W., the fecond S. W. 4 W,, and a third W. I gave orders to fleer for the feparation between the two laft j and foon after, a fourth was feen, ft ill more to the Weft. By this time, we were well affined that thefe were the Marquefas, difcovered by Mendana in 1^95. The firft ifle was a new dif_ covery, which I named Hood's Ifland, after the young gentleman who firft faw it; the fecond was that of Saint Pedro, the third, La Dominica, and the fourth, St. Chriftina. We ranged the S. E. coaft of La Dominica, without feeing the leaft figns of anchorage, till we came to the channel that divides it from St. Chriftina, through which we paffed, hauled over for the laft-mentioned ifland, and ran along the coaft to the S. W. in fearch of Mcndana's Port. We paffed feveral coves in which there feemed to be anchorage j but a great furf broke on all the fhores. Some canoes put off from thefe places, and followed us down the coafl. At At length having come before the port we were in fearch of, wc attempted to turn into it, the wind being right out j '—-—~* but as it blew in violent fqualls from this high land, one of T*wrfday thefe took us juR after we had put in Rays, payed the fhip off again, and before fhe wore round, hhe was within a few yards of being driven againR the rocks to leeward. This obliged us to Rand out to fea, and to make a Rretch to windward ; after which we Rood in again, and without attempting to turn, anchored in the entrance of the bay in thirty-four fathoms water, a fine fandy bottom. This was no fooner done than about thirty or forty of the natives came off to us in ten or twelve canoes ; but it required fome addrefs to get them along-fide. At laft a hatchet, and fome fpike-nails, induced the people in one canoe to come under the quarter-gallery : after which all the others put along-fide, and having exchanged fome bread-fruit, and fifh, for fmall nails, &o retired ahhore, the fun being already fet. We obferved a heap of Rones in the bow of each canoe, and every man to have a fling tied round his head. Very early next morning, the natives vifited us again in Friday t, much greater numbers than before; bringing with them bread-fruit, plantains, and one pig, all of which they exchanged for nails, c\c. But, in this traffic, they would frequently keep our goods and make no return; till at laft I was obliged to fire a mufquet-ball over one man who had feveral times ferved us in this manner; after which they dealt more fairly, and foon after feveral of them came on board. At this time we were preparing to warp farther into the bay, and I was going in a boat, to look for the moft convenient place to moor the fhip in. Obferving too many of the natives on board, I faid to the officers, *' You muft look Q^q 2 » well " well after thefe people, or they will certainly carry off " fomething or other." I had hardly got into the boat, be* fore I was told they had Rolen one of the iron ilanchions from the oppofite gang-way, and were making off with it. I ordered them to fire over the canoe till 1 could get round in the boat, but not to kill any one. But the natives made too much noife for me to be heard ; and the unhappy thief was killed at the third mot. Two others in the fame canoe leaped over-board ; but got in again juR as I came to them. The flanehion they had throwm over-board. One of them, a man grown, fat bailing the blood and water out of the canoe, in a kind of hyfleric laugh. The other, a youth about fourteen or fifteen years of age, looked on the deceafed with a ferious and dejected countenance: we had afterwards reafon to believe he was his fon. At this unhappy accident, all the natives retired with precipitation. I followed them into the bay, and prevailed upon the people in one canoe to come along-fide the boat, and receive fome nails, and other things, which I gave them : This, in fome mcafure, allayed their fears. Having taken a view of the bay, and found that frefli water, which we mofl wanted, was to be had, I returned on board, and carried out a kedge anchor with three hawfers upon an end, to warp the fhip in by, and hove fhort on the bower. One would have thought that the natives, by this time, would have been fo fcnfible of the effecT of our fire-arms, as not to have provoked us to fire upon them any morebut the event proved otherwife. for the boat had no fooner left the kedge anchor, than two men in a canoe put off from the more, took hold of the buoy-rope, and attempted to drag it aihore, little confidering what was faR to it. Lefl, after dif- covering covering their niiflake, they fliould take away the buoy, I or- lJH-dercd a mufquet to be iired at them. The ball fell fhort, C '-^ J and they took nor the lead notice of it; but a fecond having Ir'Jy &* paffed over them, they let go the buoy, and made for the ihore. This was the laft foot we had occafion to fuc at any of them, while we lay at this place. It probably had more eflecT than killing the man, by fhewing them that they were not fafe at any diftance ; at leaft we had reafon to think fo, for they afterwards flood in great dread of the mufquet. Neverthelefs, they would very often be exercifing their talent of thieving upon us, which 1 thought proper to put up with, as our flay was not likely to be long amongft them. The trouble thefe people gave us retarded us fo long, that, before we wTere ready to heave the anchor, the wind began to in-creafe, and blew in fqualls out of the bay; fo that we were obliged to lie faft. It was not long before the natives ventured ofT to us again. In the firft canoe which came, was a man who feemed to be of fome confequence. He advanced flowly, with a pig on his fhouldcr, and fpeaking fomething which we did not underftand. As foon as he got along-fide, 1 made him a prefent of a hatchet, and feveral other articles. In return, he fent in his pig; and was, at laft, prevailed upon to-come himfelf up into the gang-way, where he made but a fhort flay, before he went away. The reception this man met with, induced the people in all the other canoes to put along-fide ; and exchanges were prefently re-cftabliflied. Matters being thus fettled on board, I went on fhore with a party of men, to fee what was to be done there. We were received by the natives with great courtefy; and, as if nothing had happened, trafficked with them for fome fruit and a few fmall pigs; and, after loading the launch with water, returned returned aboard. After dinner I fent the boats, under the protection of a guard, aihore for water. On their landing, the natives all Red but one man, and he feemed much frightened; afterwards one or two more came down; and thefe were all that were feen this afternoon. We could not conceive the reafon of this fudden fright. Early in the morning of the 9th, the boats were fent as ufual for water; and, juR as they were coming off, but not before, fome of the natives made their appearance. After break-faft I landed fome little time before the guard, when the natives crowded round me in great numbers ; but as foon as the guard landed, I had enough to do to keep them from running oft; at length their fears vanifhed, and a trade was opened for fruit and pigs. I believe the reafon of the natives flying from our people the day before, was their not feeing me at the head of them ; for they certainly would have done the fame to-day had I not been prefent. About noon, a chief of fome confequence, attended by a great number of people, came down to the landing-place. 1 prefented him with fuch articles as I had with me ; and, in return, he gave me fome of his ornaments. After thefe mutual exchanges a good un-derftanding feemed to be eftablifhed between us ; fo that we got by exchanges as much fruit as loaded two boats, with which we returned on board to dinner; but could not prevail on the chief to accompany us. In the afternoon the watering and trading parties were fent on fhore; tho' the latter got but little, as moft of the natives had retired into the country. A party of us went to the other, or fouthern, cove of the bay, where I procured five pigs, and came to the houfe, which, we were told, did belong long to the man we had killed. He muR have been a perfon of fome note, as there v/ere fix pigs in and about his houfe, i—*—^ \ ■ r i n i Saturday g. which we were told belonged to his fon, who Red on our approach. I wanted much to have feen him, to make him a prefent, and, by other kind treatment to convince him and the others, that it was not from any bad defign againfl the nation, that we had killed his father. It would have been to little purpofe, if I had left any thing in the houfe, as it certainly would have been taken by others; efpecially as I could not fufliciemly explain to them my meaning. Strict: honefly was feldom obferved when the property of our things came to be difputed. I faw a flriking inflance of this in the morning, when I was going afhore. A man in a canoe offered me a fmall pig for a fix inch fpike, and another man being employed to convey it, I gave him the fpike,, which he kept for himfelf, and inftead of it, gave to the man who owned the pig a fixpenny nail. Words of courfe arofc, and I waited to fee how it would end ; but as the man who had pofleflion of the fpike feemed refolved to keep it, I left them before it was decided. In the evening we returned on board with what refrefhments we had collected, and thought we had made a good day's work. On the ioth, early in the morning, fome people from Sunday ra. more diftant parts 'came in canoes along-fide, and fold us fome pigs; fo that we had now fufficient to give the crew a frefli meal. They were, in general, fo fmall that forty or fifty were hardly fufficient for this purpofe. The trade on fhore for fruit was as brifk as ever. After dinner, I made a little expedition in my boat along the coaft to the fouthward, accompanied by fome of the gentlemen: at the different places we touched at, we collected eighteen pigs; and; 2 I believev I believe, might have gotten more. The people were exceedingly obliging wherever we landed, and readily brought down whatever we dcfircd. Monday 11. Next morning, I went down to the fame place where wc had been the preceding evening; but, inftead of getting pigs, as I expected, found the fcene quite changed. The nails, and other things, they were mad after but the evening before, they now defpifed ; and inftead of them wanted they did not know what; fo that I was obliged to return with three or four little pigs, which coft more than a dozen did the day before. When I got on board, I found the fame change had happened there, as alfo at the trading place on fhore. The reafon was, feveral of the young gentlemen having landed the preceding day, had given away in exchange various articles which the people had not feen before, and which took with them more than nails or more ufeful iron tools. Rut what ruined our market the moft, was one of them giving for a pig a very large quantity of red feathers he had got at Amfterdam. None of us knew, at this time, that this article was in fuch cftimation here ; and, if I had known it, I could not have fupported the trade, in the manner it was begun, one day. Thus was our fine profpcc*l of getting a plentiful fupply of refreshments from thefe people fruftratcd; which will ever be the cafe fo long as every one is allowed to make exchanges for what he plcafes, and in what manner he pleafes. When I found this ifland was not likely to fupply us, on any conditions, with fufficient refrefhments, fuch as we might expect to find at the Society Ifles, nor very convenient for taking in wood and water, nor for giving the fhip the neceffary repairs flic wanted, I refolved forthwith to leave it, and proceed to fome other place J where 1774. Apnl. S> tiAaf 10, Sjcjbtch effibe Hoods >w\ Island Ob M A K QT E M A N I) I'. M I^"JMK;A .Si'.-lli "/<■ x:: v. •where our wants might be effectually relieved. For after l77\* having been nineteen weeks at fea, and living all the time 1—?-' upon fait diet, we could not but want fome refrefhments ; although I muR own, and that with plcafure, that on our arrival here, it could hardly be faid we had one fick man; and but a few who had the IcaR complaint. This was undoubtedly owing to the many antifcorbutic articles we had on board, and to the great attention of the furgeon, who was remarkably careful to apply them in time. C II A P. X. Departure from the Marquefas; a Defcription of the Situation, Extent, Figure, and Appearance of the feveral Ifands, with fome Account of the Inhabitants, their Cufioms, Drefs, Habitations, . Food, Weapons, a7id Canoes* AT three o'clock in the afternoon wc weighed, and ftood Monday 1 over from St. Chriflina for La Dominica, in order to take view of the weft fide of that ifle; but, as it was dark before we reached it, the night was fpent in plying between the two ifles. The next morning we had a full view of the S. W. point, from which the coaft trended N. E.; fo that it 'taefda3r 1 was not probable wc fliould find good anchorage on that fide, as being expofed to the eafterly winds. Wc had now but little wind, and that very variable, with fhowers of rain. At length we got a breeze at E. N. E. with which we fleered to the South. At five o'clock in the P. M„ Refolution Bay Vol. I. R r hore bore E. N. E. 4. E. diftant five leagues, and the ifland Magdc-lena S. E., about nine leagues diftant. This was the only fight we had of this ifle. From hence I fleered S. S. W. 4 W. for Otaheite, with a view of falling in with fome of thofe ifles difcovered by former navigators, efpecially thofe difcovered by the Dutch, whofe fituations are not well deter^ mined. But it will be neceflary to return to the Marquefas ; which were, as I have already obferved, firft difcovered by Mendana a Spaniard, and from him obtained the general name they now bear, as w^ell as thofe of the different ifles. The nautical account of them, in Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Voyages to the South Seas*, is deficient in nothing but fituation. This was my chief reafon for touching at them; the fettling this point is the more ufeful, as it will, in a great, meafure, fix the fituations of Mendana's other difcoveries. The Marquefas are five in number, viz. La Magdalemv St. Pedro, La Dominica, Santa Chriftina, and Hood's Ifland, which is the northernmoft, fituated in latitude 90 s>6' South, and N. 130 Weft, five leagues and a half diftant, from the Eaft point of La Dominica, which is the largeft of all the ifles, extending Eaft and Weft fix leagues. It hath an unequal breadth, and is about fifteen or fixtecn leagues in circuit. It is full of rugged hills rifing in ridges directly from the fea; thefe ridges are disjoined by deep vallies, which are clothed with wood, as are the fides of fome of the hills; the, afpect is, however, barren; but it is, neverthelefs, inhabited, Latitude q° 44/ 30" South. St. Pedro, which is about three leagues in circuit, and of a good height, lies South, four * Vol. I. p. 6r. to 73. leagues ^ RESOLIITIO N B AT IN THE MARQ JJE S A S . /WM >/>',/ f, / .'■'/y ir'"Sf,,i/„]„ in n, •//■ str, v •/ ShaeZmttt k TAfffGuL ■///// ///, ■ ■ Strand /. > mokm XC leagues and an half from the Eaft end of La Dominica : we J774-know not if it be inhabited. Nature has not been very ■_ j bountiful to it. St. Chriftina lies under the fame parallel, three or four leagues more to the Weft. This ifland ftretches North and South, is nine miles long in that direction, and about feven leagues in circuit. A narrow ridge of hills of confiderable height extends the whole length of the ifland. There are other ridges, which, rifing from the fea, and with an equal afcent, join the main ridge. Thefe are disjoined by deep narrow vallies, which are fertile, adorned with fruit and other trees, and watered by fine ftreams of excellent water. La Magdalena wc only faw at a diftance. Its fituation muft be nearly in the latitude of io° 25', longitude 138° 50'. So that thefe ifles occupy one degree in latitude, and near half a degree in longitude, viz. from 1380 47' to 139° 13' Weft, which is the longitude of the Weft end of La Dominica. The port of Madre de Dios, which I named Refolution Bay, is fituatcd near the middle of the Weft fide of St. Chriftina, and under the higheft land in the ifland, in latitude if 55' 30", longitude 1390 8' 40" Weft; and N. 150 W. from the Weft end of La Dominica. The South point of the bay is a fteep rock of confiderable height, terminating at the top in a peaked hill, above which you will fee a path-way leading up a narrow ridge to the fummits of the hill?. The North point is not fo high, and rifes with a more gentle flope. They are a mile from each other, in the direction of N. by E. and S.. by W. In the bay, which is near three quarters of a mile deep, and has from thirty-four to twelve fathoms water, with a clean fandy bottom, are two fandy coves, divided from each other by a rocky point. In each is a rivulet of R r 2 excellent excellent water. The northern cove is the moR commodious for wooding and watering. Here is the little waterfall mentioned by Quiros, Mendana's pilot; but the town, or village, is in the other cove. There are feveral other coves, or bays, on this fide of the ifland ; and fome of them, efpe-cially to the northward, may be mifiaken for this; therefore, the beft direction is the bearing of the Weft end of La Dominica. The trees, plants, and other productions of thefe ifles, fo far as "we know, are nearly the fame as at Otaheite and the Society Ifles. The refrefhments to be got are hogs, fowls, plantains, yams, and fome other roots ; like wife bread-fruit and cocoa-nuts, but of thefe not many. At firft thefe articles were purchafed with nails. Beads, looking-glafles, and fuch trifles, which are fo highly valued at the Society Ifles, are in no efteem here ; and even nails, at laft, loft their value for other articles far lefs ufeful. The inhabitants of thefe iflands, collectively, arc without exception the fineft race of people in this fea. For fine fhape and regular features, they perhaps furpafs all other nations. Neverthelefs, the affinity of their language to that fpoken in Otaheite and the Society Ifles, fhews that they are of the fame nation. Oedidee could convcrfe with them tolerably well, though third appeared, bearing S. W. by S., for which we fleered, uruay 19. ^ twd o'clock P. M., reached the Eafl end, which is iituated in latitude 150 47' South, longitude 1460 30' Weft. This ifland extends W. N. W. and E. S. E., and is feven leagues long in that direction ; but its breadth is not above two. It is, in all refpecTs, like the reft; only here are fewer iflots, and lefs firm land on the reef which inclofeth the lake. As we ranged the North coaft, at the diftance of half a mile, we faw people, huts, canoes, and places built, fecmingly, for drying of fifli. They feemed to be the fame fort of people as on Ti-oo-kea, and were armed with long fpikes like them. Drawing near the weft end we difcovered another or fourth ifland, bearing N. N. E. It feemed to be low like the others, and lies weft from the firft ifle, diflant fix leagues. . Thefe four ifles I called Pallifer's Ifles, in honour of my worthy friend Sir Hugh Pallifer, at this time comptroller of the navy. . , r Not chufme to run farther in the dark, we fpent the nio;ht making fhort boards under the top-fad, and on the 20th at day-break, hauled round, the Weft end of the third iile, which was no fooner done than wc found a great fwell rolling in from the South; a fure fign that we were clear of thefe low iflands; and as wc faw no more land, I fleered S. W. i S. for Otaheite ; having the advantage of a flout gale at Eaft, attended with fhowcrs of rain. It cannot be determined with any degree of certainty whether the group of ifles wc had lately feen, be any of thofe difcovered by the Dutch navigators, or no ; the fituation of their difcoveries not being handed down to us with fuflicient accuracy. It is however neceflary to obferve, that this part of the ocean, that that is from the latitude of 200 down to 140 or 12° and from '774" April. the meridian of 1380 to 1480 or 150° Weft, is fo flrewed with > thefe low ifles, that a navigator cannot proceed with too much caution-. We made the high land of Otaheite'on the 21R, and at Thuri&y noon were about thirteen leagues EaR of Point Venus, for which we fleered, and got pretty well in with it by fun-fer, when we fhortcned fail; and having fpent the night, which was fqually with rain, flanding on and off, at eight o'clock the next morning anchored in Matavai Bay in feven fathoms Friday 22. water. This was no fooner known to the natives than many of them made us a vifit, and cxprcflcd not a little joy at feeing us again.. As my chief reafon for putting in at this place was to give Mr. Wales an opportunity to know the error of tlie watch by the known longitude, and to determine anew her rare of going, the firft thing wc did was to land his inftruments; and to erect tents for the reception of a guard and fuch other people as it was neceffary to have on fhore. Sick we had none; the rcfrefhments we got at the Marquefas had removed every complaint of that kind. On the 23d fhowcry weather. Our very good friends the Saturday7* natives fupplied us with fruit and fifh fufficient for the whole crew* On the 24th, .Otoo the king, and feveral orher chiefs, Sou* with a train of attendants, paid us a vifit, and brought as prefents ten or a dozen large hogs, befides fruits, which made them exceedingly welcome. I was advertifee! the king's coming, and looked upon it as a good omen. Kn ing how much it was my intercft to make this man my fi nd. 1 met, ( 1774. 1 met him at the tents, and conducted him and his friends kJIZ^—j on board, in my boat, where they Raid dinner ; after which Simfcr** they wcrc (lifmiired with fuitabic prefents, and highly pleafed with the reception they had met with. Monday 25. Next day wc had much thunder, lightning, and rain. This did not hinder the king from making me another vifit, and a prefent of a large quantity of refrefhments. It hath been already mentioned, that when we were at the ifland of Amfterdam we had collected, amongft other curio-fities, fome red parrot feathers. When this was known here, all the principal people of both fexes endeavoured to ingratiate themfelves into our favour by bringing us hogs, fruit, and every other thing the ifland afforded, in order to obtain thefe valuable jewels. Our having thefe feathers was a fortunate circumftance; for as they were valuable to the natives, they became fo to us; but more cfpecially as my ftock of trade was, by this time, greatly exhaufted ; fo that, if it had not been for the feathers, I fliould have found it difficult to have fupplied the fhip with the neceflary refrefhments. When I put in at this ifland I intended to flay no longer than till Mr. Wales had made the neceffary obfervations for the purpofes already mentioned; thinking we fliould meet with no better fuccefs than we did the laft time we were here. But the reception we had already met with, and the few excurflons we had made, which did not exceed the plains of Matavai and Oparree, convinced us of our error. We found at thefe two places, built and building, a great number of large canoes, and houfes of every kind; people living in fpacious habitations, who had not a place to fhelter themfelves in eight months before ; feveral large hogs about every houfe ; and every other fign of a riling ftate. Judging fudging from thefe favourable circumRances that we J774- J 0 0 , Apnl. mould not mend ourfelves by removing to another ifland, 1-,—» I refolved to make a longer Ray, and to begin with the re- Momby *v pairs of the fhip and Rores, &c. Accordingly I ordered the empty cafks and fails to be got afhore to be repaired; the fhip to be caulked; and the rigging to be overhauled j all of which the high fouthern latitudes had made indifpenfably neceffary. In the(morning of the 26th, I went down to Oparree, Tuefday=^ accompanied by fome of the officers and gentlemen, to pay Otoo a vifit by appointment. As we drew near, we obferved a number of large canoes in motion; but were furprized, when we arrived, to fee upwards of three hundred ranged in order, for fome diflance, along the more, all completely equipped, and manned, befides a vaft number of armed men upon the fhore. So unexpected an armament collected together in our neighbourhood, in the fpace of one night, gave rife to various conjectures. Wc landed, however, in the midft of them, and were received by a vaft multitude, many of them under arms, and many not. The cry of the latter was Tiyo no Otoo, and that of the former Tiyo no Toivha. This chief, we afterwards learnt, was admiral or commander of the fleet and troops prefent. The moment we landed I was met by a chief whofe name was Tec, uncle to the king, and one of his prime minifters, of whom I inquired for Otoo. Prefently after, we were met by Towha, who received me with great courtefy. He took me by the one hand, and Tee by the other; and, without my knowing where they intended to carry me, dragged me, as it were, through the crowd that was divided into two parties, both of which pro-feffed themfelves my friends by crying out Tiyo no Tootee. One i>7.4- One party wanted me to go to Otoo, and the other to remain <—_J—v with Towha. Coming to the ufual place of audience, a Tuc a} " mat was fprcad for me to fit down upon, and Tee left me to go and bring the king. Towha was unwilling I fliould fit down, partly infifling on my going with him; but, as I knew nothing of this chief, I refufed to comply. Prefently Tec returned, and wanted to conduct me to the king, taking hold of my hand for that purpofe. This Towha oppofed; fo that, between the one party and the other, I was like to have been torn in pieces ; and was obliged to deflre Tee to defifl, and to leave mc to the admiral and his party, who conducted me down to the fleet. As foon as we came before the admiral's veflel, we found two lines of armed men drawn up before her, to keep off the crowd, as I fuppofed, and to clear the way for me to go in. But, as I was determined not to go, I made the water, which was between me and her, an excufe. This did not anfwer ; for a man immediately fquatted himfelf down at my feet, offering to carry me; and then I declared I would not go. That very moment Towha quitted mc, without my feeing which way he went, nor would any one inform mc. Turning myfelf round I faw Tee, who, I believe, had never loR fight of me. Inquiring of him for the king, he told me he was gone into the country Mataou, and advifed me to go to my boat; which we accordingly did, as foon as we could get collected together. For Mr. Edgcumbc was the only perfon that could keep with me; the others being jollied about in the crowd, in the fame manner we had been. When we got into our boat we took our time to view this grand fleer. The veffels of war confifled of an hundred and fixty large double canoes, very well equipped, manned, and armed. Urmed. But I am not fure that they had their full com pie- J774* * April. ment of men or rowers j I rather think not. The chiefs, u.— and all thofe on the fighting Rages, were dreffed in their war 1 uef ay 2 habits j that is, in a vaft quantity of cloth, turbans, breaft-plates, and helmets. Some of the latter were of fuch a length as greatly to incumber the wearer. Indeed, their whole drefs feemed to be ill calculated for the day of battle, and to be defigned more for fhew than ufe. Be this as it may, it certainly added grandeur to the profpect, as they were fo complaifant as to fhew themfelves to the beft advantage. The veflels were decorated with flags, flreamers, 8cc.; fo that the whole made a grand and noble appearance, fuch as we had never feen before in this fea, and what no one would have expected. Their inftruments of war were clubs, fpears, and ftones. The veffels were ranged clofe along-fide of each other, with their heads afhore, and their ftern to the fea ; the admiraPs veflel being nearly in the centre. Befides the veflels of war, there were an hundred and feventy fail of fmaller double canoes, all with a little houfe upon them, and rigged with maft and fail, which the war canoes had not. Thefe, wc judged, were defigned for tranfports, victuallers, &c.; for in the war canoes was no fort of provifions whatever. In thefe three hundred and thirty veflels I gueflcd there were no lefs than feven thoufand feven hundred and fixty men ; a number which appears incredible, cfpecially as we v^ere told they all belonged to the diflricTs of Attahourou and Ahopatca, In this computation I allow to each war canoe forty men, troops and rowers, and to each of the fmall canoes eight. Moft of the gentlemen who were with me, thought the number of men belonging to the war canoes exceeded this. It is certain that the moft of them were fitted to row with more paddles than I have al-Vol. I. T t lowed 1774. lowed them men ; but, at this time, I think they were not i_f!^LL-/ complete. Tupia informed us, when I was firft here, that Tuefday 2 . ^ whole ifland raifed only between fix and feven thoufand men; but we now faw two diftricts only, raife that number; fo that he muft have taken his account from fome old efta-blifhment; or elfe he only meant Tatatous, that is warriors, or men trained from their infancy to arms, and did not include the rowers, and thofe neceflary to navigate the other veflels. I fhould think he only fpoke of this number as the ftanding troops or militia of the ifland, and not their whole force. This point I {hall leave to be difcufled in another, place, and return to the iubject.. After we had. well viewed this fleet, I wanted much to have feen the admiral, to have gone with him on board the war canoes. We inquired for him as wc rowed pall the fleet to no purpofe. We put aihore and inquired; but the noife and crowd was fo great that no one attended to what we faid. At laft Tee came and whifpered us in the ear, that Otoo was gone to Matavai, advifing us to return thither, and not to land where we were. We, accordingly, proceeded for. the fhip; and this intelligence and advice received from Tec, gave rife to new conjectures. In fhort, we concluded that this Towha was fome powerful difaflected chief, who was upon the point of making war againfl his fovereign; for we could not imagine Otoo had any other reafon for leaving Oparree in the manner he did. We had not been long gone from Oparree, before the whole fleet was in motion, to the weftward, from whence it came. When we got to Matavai, our friends there told us, that this fleet was part of the armament intended to go againfl Eimeo, whofe chief had thrown off the yoke of Ota- * heite, Tuefday z6. taheite, and aflumed an independency. We were likewife J774-informed that Otoo neither was nor had been at Matavai ; fo that we were Hill at a lofs to know why he fled from Oparree-This occafioned another trip thither in the afternoon, where we found him, and now underftood that the reafon of his not feeing me in the morning, was that fome of his people having ftolen a quantity of my clothes which were on fhore wafliing, he was afraid I fliould demand reftitution. He repeatedly afked me if I was not angry; and when I aflured him that I was not, and that they might keep what they had got, he was fatisfied. Towha was alarmed, partly on the fame account. He thought I was difplcafed when I refufed to go aboard his veflel; and I was jealous of feeing fuch a force in our neighbourhood without being able to know anything of its defign. Thus, by miftaking one another, I loft the opportunity of examining more narrowly into part of the naval force of this ifle, and making myfelf better acquainted with its manoeuvres. Such an opportunity may never occur; as it was commanded by a brave, fenfible, and intelligent chief, who would have fatisfied us in all the queftions we had thought proper to afk ; and, as the objects were before us, we could not well have mifunderftood each other. It happened unluckily that Oedidee was not with us in the morning ; for Tee, who was the only man we could depend on, ferved only to perplex us. Matters being thus cleared up, and mutual prefents having paffed between Otoo and me, we took leave and returned on board. T t 3 CHAP. C II A P. XII. Some Account $f a Vifit from Otoo, Towha, and feveral other Chiefs ; alfo of a Robbery committed by one of the Natives, and its Confequences, with general Obfervations on the Subjecl. 1774* TN the morning of the 27th, I received a prefent from Ap."' _p A Towha, confuting of two large hogs and fome fruit, fent dncf. 27, ^ two 0f hig fervants, who had orders not to receive any thing in return; nor would they, when offered them. Soon after, I went down to Oparree in my boat, where having found both this chief and the king, after a fhort Ray, I brought them both on board to dinner, together with Tare-vatoo the king's younger brother, and Tee. As foon as we drew near the fhip, the admiral, who had never feen one before, began to exprefs much furprize at fo new a fight. Pie was conducted all over the fliip, every part of which he viewed with great attention. On this occafion Otoo was the principal fhew-man ; for, by this time, he was well acquainted with the different parts of the fhip. After dinner Towha put a hog on board, and retired, without my knowing any thing of the matter, or having made him any return either for this, or the prefent I had in the morning. Soon after, the king and his attendants went away alfo. Otoo not only feemed to pay this chief much refpect, but was de-firous I fliould do the fame j and yet he was jealous of him, but on what account we knew not. It was but the day before before that he frankly told us, Towha was not his friend. J774-Both thefe chiefs when on board folicited me to aflift them Wednef. 27. againfl: Tiarabou, notwithstanding a peace at this time fub-fifted between the two kingdoms, and we were told that their joint force was to go againft Eimeo. Whether thi3 was done with a view of breaking with their neigbours and allies, if I had promifed them aftiftance, or only to found my difpolition, I know not. Probably they would have been ready enough to have embraced an opportunity, which would have enabled them to conquer that kingdom, and annex it to their own, as it was formerly: be this as it may, I heard no more of it; indeed, I gave them no encourage* ment. Next day we had a prefent of a hog fent by Wahca-toua Thurfday 28* king of Tiarabou. For this, in return, he dcfired a few red feathers, which were, together with other things, fent him accordingly. Mr. Forfter and his party fet out for the mountains, with an intent to ftay out all night. I did not go out of the fliip this day. Early in the morning of the 29th, Otoo, Towha, and feve- Friday 29. ral other grandees, came on board, and brought with them, as prefents, not only provifiom, but fome of the moft valuable curiofities of the ifland. I made them returns, with which they were well pleafed. I likewife took this opportunity to repay the civilities I had received from Towha. The night before, one of the natives attempting to fleal a water-calk from the watering-place, he was caught in the act, fent on board, and put in irons; in which fituation Otoo and the other chiefs faw him. Having made known bis crime to them, Otoo begged he might be fet at liberty. This I refufed, 3Q6 a voyage towards the south pole, 1774. I refufed, telling him, that fince I punimed my people, when \_A~'i- _> they committed the leaft offence againft his, it was but juft Fnday 29. ^ n]au 5e punifhed aif0; and, as I knew he would not do it, I was reiolved to do it myfelf. Accordingly, \ ordered the man to be carried on fhore to the tents, and having followed myfelf, with Otoo, Towha, and others, I ordered the guard out, under arms, and the man to be tied up to a poft. Otoo, his lifter, and fome others begged hard for him; Towha faid not one word, but was very attentive to every thing going forward. 1 expoftulared with Otoo on the conduct of this man, and of his people in general j telling him, that neither I, nor any of my people, took any thing from them, without firft paying for it; enumerating the articles we gave in exchange for fuch and fuch things, and urging that it was wrong in them to fteal from us who were their friends. T, moreover, told him, that the punifhing this man would be the means of faving the lives of others of his people, by deterring them from committing crimes of this nature, in which fome would certainly be fhot dead, one time or another: with thefe and other arguments, which I believe he pretty well underftood, he feemed fatisfied, and only defired the man might not be Mattcerou (or killed). I then ordered the crowd, which was very great, to be kept at a proper diftance, and, in the prefence of them all, ordered the fellow two dozen of lahhcs with a cat-of-nine-tails, which he bore with great firmnefs, and was then fet at liberty.' After this the natives were going away; but Towha ftepped forth, called them back, and harangued them for near half an hour. His fpcech confifled of fhort fentenccs, very little of which I underftood ; but, from what we could gather, he recapitulated part of what I had faid to Otoo ; named feveral advantages they had received from us; condemned condemned their prefent conduct, and recommended a dif- J774* April, ferent one for the future. The gracefulnefs of his action, and the attention with which he was heard, befpoke him a lriday 29' great orator. Otoo faid not one word. As foon as Towha had ended his fpeech, I ordered the marines to go through their excrcife, and to load and fire in vollies with ball; and as they were very quick in their manoeuvres, it is eaficr to conceive than to defcribe the amazement the natives were under, the whole time, efpecially thofe who had not feen any thing of the kind before. This being over, the chiefs took leave and retired with all their attendants, fcarcely more pleafed than frightened at what they had feen. In the evening Mr. Forfter and his party returned from the mountains, where he had fpent the night; having found fome new plants, and fome others which grew in New Zealand. He faw Huaheine, which lies forty leagues to the weftward; by which a judgment may be formed of the height of the mountains in Otaheite. Next morning I" had an opportunity to fee the people of Saturday 3o.< ten war canoes go through part of their paddling excrcife. They had put off from the fhore before I was apprifed of it; fo that I was only prefent at their landing. They were properly equipped for war, the warriors with their arms, and dreffed in their war habits, &c. In landing I obferved that the moment the canoe touched the ground, all the rowers leaped out, and, with the aftiftance of a few people on the fliore, dragged the canoe on dry land to her proper place; which being done, every one walked off with his paddle, &c. All this was executed with fuch expedition, that, in five minutes time after putting afhore, you could not tell that any 1774. any thing of the kind had been going forward. I thought April- - 0 v—-v-* thefe veflels were thinly manned with rowers; the mofl be- Satuniiy 30. above thirty, and the leafl flxteen or eighteen. I ob- ferved the warriors on the Rage encouraged the rowers to exert themfelves. Some youths fat high up in the curved Rem, above the fleerfmen, with white wands in their hands. I know not what they were placed there for; unlefs it was to look out, and direct, or give notiee of what they faw, as they were elevated above every one elfe. Tarevatoo, the king's brother, gave me the firft notice of thefe canoes being at fea; and, knowing that Mr. Hodges made drawings of every thing curious, defired, of his own accord, that he might be fent for. I being at this time on fhore with Tarevatoo, Mr. Hodges was therefore with me, and had an opportunity to collect fome materials for a large drawing or picture of the fleet aflembled at Oparree, which will convey a far better idea of it than can be exprefTed by words. Being prefent when the warriors undrefled, I was furprifed at the quantity and weight of cloth they had upon them, not conceiving how it was poflible for them to ftand under it in time of battle. Not a little was wrapped round their heads as a turban, and made into a cap. This indeed might be neceflary in preventing a broken head. Many had, fixed to one of this fort of caps, dried branches of fmall fhrubs covered over with white feathers; which, however, could only be for ornament. I had a very great fupply of provifions, fent, and brought May- by different chiefs, on the ill of May ; and the next-day re-Monday 2. ceived a prefent from Towha, fent by his fervants, confifting of a hog, and a boat load of various forts of fruit and roots. The like prefent I alfo had from Otoo, brought by Tarevatoo, 6 who who Rayed dinner; after which I went down to Oparree, paid a vifit to Otoo, and returned on board in the evening. 1774. May. ,J On the 3d, in looking into the condition of our fea pro- Tuefday 3 vifions, we found that the bifcuit was in a flate of decay, and that the airing and picking we had given it at New Zealand, had not been of that fervice we expected and intended ; fo that we were obliged to take it all on fhore here, where it underwent another airing and cleaning, in which a good deal was found wholly rotten and unfit to be eaten. We could not well account for this decay in our bread, efpe-cially as it was packed in good cafks, and Rowed in a dry part of the hold. We judged it was owing to the ice we fo frequently took in when to the fouthward, which made the hold damp and cold, and to the great heat which fucceeded when to the North. Be it this, or any other caufe, the lofs was equal to us: it put us to fcanty allowance of this article; and wc had bad bread to eat too. On the 4th, nothing wrorthy of note. Wedneffl. On the 5th, the king, and feveral other great men, paid Thurfday us a vifit, and brought with them, as ufual, fome hogs and fruit. In the afternoon, the botanifts fet out for the mountains, and returned the following evening, having made frtt*y6. fome new difcoveries in their way. On going afhore in the morning of the 7th, I found Otoo Saturday; at the tents, and took the opportunity to afk his leave to cut down fome trees for fuel. He not well undcrftanding me, I took him to fome growing near the fea-fliore, where I prefently made him comprehend what I wanted, and he as readily gave his confent. I told him, at the fame time, that I ihould cut down no trees that bore any fruit. He was Vol. I. U u pleafed pleated with this declaration, and told it aloud, feveral times, to the people about us. In the afternoon, he and the whole royal family, viz. his father, brother, and three fifters, paid us a vifit on board. This was properly his father's vifit of ceremony. Pie brought me, as a prefent, a complete mourning drefs, a curioiity we mofl valued. In return, I gave him whatever he defired, which was not a little, and having diflributcd red feathers to all the others, conducted them afhore in my boat. Otoo was fo well pleafcd with the reception he and his friends met with, that he told mc, at parting, I might cut down as many trees as I pleafcd, and what fort I pleafcd. During the nighr, between the 7th and 8th, fome time in the middle watch, all our friendly connections received an interruption, through the negligence of one of the centinels on fhore. He, having either flept or quitted his poll, gave one of the natives an opportunity to carry off' his mufquet. The firft news I heard of it was from Tee, whom Otoo had fent on board for that purpofe, and to defire that I would go to him, for that he was mataoucd. We were not well enough acquainted with their language to underftand all Tee's ftory; but we underftood enough to know that fomething had happened, which had alarmed the king. In order, therefore, to be fully informed, I went afhore with Tee and Tarevatoo, who had flept aboard all night. As foon as we landed, I was informed of the whole by the ferjeant who commanded the party. I found the natives all alarmed, and the moft of them fled. Tarevatoo Hipped from me in a moment, and hardly any remained by me but Tee. With him I went to look for Otoo; and, as we advanced, I endeavoured to allay the fears of the people, but at the fame time infifted on the mufquet mufquet being reftored. After travelling fome diftance into the country, enquiring of every one we faw for Otoo, Tec Ropped all at once and advifed me to return, faying that Otoo was gone to the mountains, and he would proceed and tell him that I was Rill his friend; aqueftion which had been afked me lifty times by different people, and if I was angry, 8cc. Tec alfo promifed that he would ufe his endeavours to recover the mufquet. I was now fatisfied it was to no purpofe to go farther; for, although I was alone and unarmed, Otoo's fears were fuch, that he durft not fee me ; and therefore I took Tee's advice, and returned aboard. After this I fent Oedidee to Otoo to let him know that his fears were ill-grounded * for that I only required the return of the mufquet, which I knew was in his power. Soon after Oedidee was gone, we obferved fix large canoes coming round Point Venus. Some people whom I had fent out, to watch the conduct of the neighbouring inhabitants, informed me they were laden with baggage, fruit, hogs, &c. There being room for fufpecting that fome perfon belonging to thefe canoes had committed the theft, I prefently came to a refolution to intercept them; and having put off in a boat for that purpofe, gave orders for another to follow. One of the canoes, which was fome diftance ahead of the reft, came directly for the fhip. I went along-fide this, and found two or three women in her whom I knew. They told me they were going on board the fhip with fomething for me; and, on my inquiring of them for Otoo, was told he was then at the tents. Pleafed with this news, I contradicted the orders I had given for intercepting the other canoes, thinking they might be coming on board alfo, as well as this one, which I left within a few yards of the fhip, and rowed afhore U u 2 to to fpeak with Otoo. But when I landed I was told that he had not been there, nor knew they any thing of him. On my looking behind me, I faw all the canoes making off in the greateft haftc; even the one I had left along-fide the fhip had evaded going on board, and was making her efcape. Vexed at being thus outwitted, I refolved to purfuc them ; and, as I paffed the fhip, gave orders to fend another boat for the fame purpofe. Five out of fix we took, and brought along-fide ; but the firft, which acted the fine fie fo well, got clear off. When we got on board with our prizes, I learnt that the people who had deceived me, ufed no endeavours to lay hold of the fhip on the fide they were upon, but let their canoe drop paft as if they meant to come under the ftern, or on the other fide; and that the moment they were paft, they paddled off with all fpced. Thus the canoe, in which were only a few women, was to have amufed us with f alfe ftorics, as they actually did, while the others, in which were moft of the effects, got off. In one of the canoes we had taken, was a chief, a friend of Mr. Forfter's, who had hitherto called himfelf an Earee, and would have been much offended if any one had called his title in queftion; alfo three women, his wife and daughter, and the mother of the late Toutaha. Thefe, together with the canoes, I refolved to detain, and to fend the chief to Otoo, thinking he would have weight enough with him to obtain the return of the mufqucr, as his own property was at flake. He was, however, very unwilling to go on this embafty, and made various excufes, one of which was his being of too low a rank for this honourable employment; laying he was no Earee* but a Manahouna, and therefore was not a fit perfon to be fent; that an Earee ought to be fent to fpeak fpeak to an Earee; ami, as there were no Earces but Otoo and J774-myfelf, it would be much more proper for me to go. All his arguments would have availed him little, if Tee and Sunday Oedidee had not, at this time, come on board and given a new turn to the affair, by declaring that the man who Role the mufquet was from Tiarabou, and had gone with it to that kingdom, fo that it was not in the power of Otoo to recover it. I very much doubted their veracity, till they afked me to fend a boat to Waheatoua the king of Tiarabou, and offered to go themfelves in her, and get it. I allied why this could not be done without my fending a boat? They faid it would not otherwife be given to them. This Rory of theirs, although it did not quite fatisfy me, neverthclefs carried with it the probability of truth; for which reafon I thought it better to drop the affair altogether^ rather than to punifh a nation for a crime 1 was not fure any of its members had committed. I therefore fuffered my new ambaffador to depart with his two canoes without executing his commiflion. The other three canoes belonged to Maritata a Tiarabou chief, who had been fome days about the tents; and there was good reafon to believe it was one of his people that carried off the mufquet. I intended to have detained them ; but as Tec and Oedidee both afRircd me that Maritata and his people were quite innocent, I fuffered them to be taken away alfo, and defired Tee to tell Otoo, that I fliould give myfelf no farther concern about the mufquet, fince I was farisfied none of his people had Rolen it. Indeed, I thought it was irrecoverably loft; but, in the dufk of the evening, it was brought to the tents, together with fome other things we had loll, which we knew nothing of, by three men who had purfued the thief and taken them 4 from Sunday 8 1774- from him. I know not, if they took this trouble of their May. , . ii, own accord, or by order of Otoo. I rewarded them, and made no farther inquiry about it. Thefe men, as well as fome others prefent, allured me that it was one of Maritata's people who had committed this theft; which vexed me that I had let his canoes fo eafily flip through my fingers. Here, I believe, both Tee and Oedidee defignedly deceived me. When the mufquet and other things were brought in, every one then prefent, or who came after, pretended to have had fome hand in recovering them, and claimed a reward accordingly. But there was no one who acted this farce fo well as Nuno, a man of fome note, and well known to us when I was here in 1769. This man came, with all the fa-vage fury imaginable in his countenance, and a large club in his hand, with which he beat about him, in order to fhew us how he alone had killed the thief; when, at the fame time, we all knew that he had not been out of his houfe the whole time. Thus ended this troublefome day; and next morning early, Tee, Otoo's faithful ambaffador, came again on board, to acquaint me that Otoo was gone to Oparree, and defired I would fend a perfon, (one of the natives as I underftood) to tell him that I was ft ill his Tiyo. I afked him why he did not do this himfelf, as I had defired. He made fome excufe ; but, I believe, the truth was, he had not feen him. In fhort, I found it was neceflary for me to go myfelf; for, while we thus fpent our time in meflages, we remained without fruit, a flop being put to all exchanges of this nature; that is, the natives brought nothing to market. Accordingly, a party of us fet out, with Tee in our company, and proceeded to the very utmoft limits of Oparree, where, after 1 waiting Monday 9. waiting fome confiderable time, and feveral meffages having J774- paffed, the king, at laft, made his appearance. After we <--J—~> were feated under the fhade of fome trees, as ufual, and the Monddy 9" firft falutations were over, he defired me to parou (that is, to fpeak). Accordingly, I began with blaming him for being frightened and alarmed at what had happened, fince I had always profeRed myfelf his friend, and I was not angry ■with him or any of his people, but with thofe of Tiarabou, who were the thieves. I was then afked, how I came to fire at the canoes? Chance, on this occafion, furnifhed me with a good excufe. I told them, that they belonged to Maritata, a Tiarabou man, one of whofe people had Rolen the mufquet, and occafioned all this difturbance, and if I had them in my power I would deftroy them, or any other belonging to Tiarabou. This declaration pleafed them, as I expected, from the natural averfion the one kingdom has to the other. What I faid was enforced by prefents, which, perhaps, had the greateft weight with them. Thus were things once more reftored to their former flate; and Otoo promifed on his part, that, the next day, wc fhould be fupplied with fruit, &c. as ufual. We then returned with him to his proper refidence at Oparree, and there took a view of fome of his dock-yards (for fuch they well deferved to be called) and large canoes; fome lately built and others building; two of which were the largeR I had ever feen in this fea; or, indeed, any where elfe, under that name. This done, we returned on board, with Tee in our company ; who, after he had dined with us, went to inform old Happi, the king's father, that all matters were accommodated. This This old chief was, at this time, in the neighbourhood of Matavai; and it fliould feem, from what followed, that he was not pleafed with the conditions; for, that fame evening, all the women, which were not a few, were fent for out of the fhip, and people Rationed, on different parts of the fhore, to prevent any from coming off; and, the next morning, no fupplies whatever being brought, on my inquiring into the reafon, I was told Plappi was mataoucd. Chagrined at this difappointment as I was, I forbore taking any ftep, from a fuppofition that Tee had not feen him, or that Otoo's orders had not yet reached Matavai. A fupply of fruit fent us from Oparree, and fome brought us by our friends, ferved us for the prefent, and made us lefs anxious about it. Thus matters flood till the afternoon, when Otoo himfelf came to the tents with a large fupply. Thither I went, and expoftulated with him for not permitting the people in our neighbourhood to bring us fruit as ufual, infilling on his giving immediate orders about it; which he either did, or had done before. For, prefently after, more was brought us than we could well manage. This was not to be wondered at; for the people had every thing in readi-nefs to bring, the moment they were permitted, and, I believe, thought themfelves as much injured by the rcftric-tion as we did. Otoo defiring to fee fome of the great guns fire from the fhip, I ordered twelve to be fhotted and fired towards the fea. As he had never feen a cannon fired before, the fight gave him as much pain as plcafure. In the evening, we entertained him with fire-works, which gave him great fa-tisfacStion. Thus Thus ended all our differences, on which I beg leave to JjjTJ-fnn-Q-efl: the following remarks. I have had occafion, in this -v— journal before, to obferve that thefe people were continually watching opportunities to rob us. This their governors either encouraged, or had not power to prevent; but moR probably the former, becaufe the offender was always fcreened. That they fliould commit fuch daring thefts was the more extraordinary, as they frequently run thcrifquc of being fhot in the attempt; and if the article that they Role was of any confequence, they knew they fliould be obliged to make reftitution. The moment a theft of this kind was committed, it fpread like the wind over the whole neighbourhood. They judged of the confequences from what they had got. If it were a trifle, and fuch an article as wc ufually gave them, little or no notice was taken of it; but if the contrary, every one took the alarm, and moved off with his moveables in all hade. The chief then was mata-oued, giving orders to bring us no fupplies, and flying to fome diftant part. All this was fomctimes done fo fuddenly, that we obtained, by thefe appearances, the firft intelligence of our being robbed. Whether wc obliged them to make reftitution or no, the chief muft be reconciled, before any of the people were permitted to bring in any refrefhments. They knew very well we could not do without them, and therefore never failed ftrictly to obferve this rule, without ever confidering, that all their war canoes, on which the flrength of their nation depends, their houfes, and even the very fruit they refufed to fupply us with, were entirely in our power. It is hard to fay how they would act, were one to deitroy any of thefe things. Except the detaining fome of their canoes for a while, I never touched the leaft article Vol. I. X x of of their property. Of the two extremes I always chofe that which appeared the moll equitable and mild. A trifling prefent to the chief always fucceeded to my wifh, and very often put things upon a better footing than they had been before. That they were the firft aggreflbrs had very little influence on my conduct in this refpect, becaufe no difference happened but when it was fo. My people very rarely or never broke through the rules I thought it neceflary to pre-fcribe. tlad I obferved a different conduct, I muft have been the lofer by it in the end; and all I could expect, after de-ftroying fome part of their property, would have been the empty honour of obliging them to make the firft overture towards an accommodation. But who knows if this would have been the event ? Three things made them our faft friends. Their own good nature and benevolent difpofition; gentle treatment on our part; and the dread of our fire-arms. By our ceafing to obferve the fecond, the firft would have worn out of courfe; and the too frequent ufe of the latter would have excited a fpirit of revenge, and perhaps have taught them that fire-arms were not fuch terrible things as they had imagined. They were very fenfible of the fupcri-ority of their numbers ; and no one knows what an enraged multitude might do. C H A P. CHAP XIII. Preparations to leave the If and. Another Naval Review? and various other Incidents ; with fome Accotmt of the If and, its naval Force, and Number of Inhabitants* IN the morning of the nth, a very large fupply of fruit J?74. was brought us from all parts. Some of it came from — WedticU i \ Towha the admiral, fent as ufual by his fervants, with orders to receive nothing in return. But he defired I would go and fee him at Attahourou, as he was ill and could not come to me. As I could not well undertake this journey, I fent Oedidee, along with Towha's fervants, with a prefent fuit-able to that which I had, in fo genteel a manner, received from him. As the moft eflential repairs of the fhip were nearly finifhcd, I refolved to leave Otaheite in a few days ; and accordingly ordered every thing to be got off from the fhore, that the natives might fee we were about to depart. On the 12th, old Oberea, the woman, who, when the Dol- Thurfday is, phin was here in 1767, was thought to be queen of the ifland, and whom I had not feen fince 1769, paid us a vifit, and brought a prefent of hogs and fruit. Soon after, came Otoo with a great retinue, and a large quantity of provifions. I was pretty liberal in my returns, thinking it might be the laft time I fliould fee thefe good people, who had fo liberally relieved our wants ; and, in the evening, entertained them with fire-works. X x 2 On On the 13th, winds eafterly, fair weather. Neverthelefs,. we were not ready to fail, as Otoo had made me promife to fee him again; and I had a prefent to make him, which I referved to the laft. Oedidee was not yet come back from Attahourou; various reports arofe concerning him; fome faid he had returned to Matavai; others that he wTotild not return; and fome would have it that he was at Oparree. In order to know more of the truth, a party of us in the evening went down to Oparree ; where wc found him, and like-wife Towha, who, notwithftanding his illnefs, had refolved to fee mc before I failed, and had gotten thus far on his journey. Pie was amicTcd with a fwclling in his fect and legs, which had entirely taken away the ufe of them. As the day was far fpent wc were obliged to fhortcn our flay; and, after feeing Otoo, we returned with Oedidee on board. This youth, I found, was defirous of remaining at this ifle, having, before, told him, as likewife many others, that we fliould not return. I now mentioned to him that he was at liberty to remain here; or to quit us at Ulietea ; or to go with us to England; frankly owning that if he chofc the latter, it was very probable he would never return to his country ; in which cafe I would take care of him, and he muft afterwards look upon me as his father. Ho threw his arms about me, and wept much, faying many people per--fuaded him to remain at Otaheite. I told him to go afhore and fpeak to his friends, and then come to me in the morning. He was well beloved in the fliip; fo that every one was perfuading him to go with us ; telling him what great things he would fee in England, and the immenfe riches (according to his idea of riches) he would return with. But 1 thought proper to undeceive him, as knowing that the only only inducement to his going, was the expectation of re- J774j turning, and I could fee no profpect. of an opportunity of l.—v—> that kind happening,, unlefs a fhip fliould be exprefsly fent Inday'3* out for that purpofe; which neither I, nor any one elfe, had a.right to expect. I thought it an act of the high eft injuflice to take a perfon from thefe ifles, under any promifc which was not in my power to perform. At this time, indeed, it was quite unncceflary ;. for many youths voluntarily offered themfelves to go, and even to remain and die in Pretanee; as they call our country. Otoo importuned me much to take one or two, to collect red feathers for him at Amfterdam, willing to rifque the chance of their returning. Some of the gentlemen on hoard were likewife defirous of taking fome as fervants; but I refufed every folicitation of this kind, knowing, from experience, they would be of no ufe to us in the courfe of the voyage; and farther, my views were not extended. What had the greateft weight with me, was the thinking myfelf bound to fee they were afterwards properly taken care of, as they could not be carried from their native fpot without confent.. Next morning early, Oedidee came on board with a refo- Saturday 14. lution to remain at the ifland; but Mr. Forfter prevailed upon him to go with us to Ulietea. Soon after, Towha, Poa-tatou, Oamo, Happi, Obcrca,and feveral more of our friends, came on board with fruit, &c. Towha was hoiftcd in and placed on a chair on the quarter-deck; his wife was with him. Amongft the various articles which I gave this chief, was an Englifh pendant, which pleafcd him more than all the reft, efpecially after he had been inftructcd in the ufe of it. * Wc We had no fooner difpatched our friends than we faw a number of war canoes coming round the point of Oparree. Being dcfirous of having a nearer view of them, accompanied by fome of the officers and gentlemen, I haflened down to Oparree, which we reached before all the canoes were landed, and had an opportunity of feeing in what manner they approached the fhore. When they got before the place where they intended to land, they formed themfelves into divifions, confiding of three or four or perhaps more, lafhed Fquare and clofe along fide of each other; and then each divifion, one after the other, paddled in for the fhore with all their might, and conducted in fo judicious a manner that they formed, and clofed a line, along the fhore, to an inch. The rowers were encouraged to exert their Rrength by their leaders on the flages, and directed by a man who flood with a wand iu his hand in the fore-part of the middlemoR vefTel. T his man, by words and actions, directed the paddlers when all fliould paddle, when either the one fide or the other mould ccafe, &c.; for the Reering paddles alone were not fufTicient to direct them. All thefe motions they obferved with fuch quicknefs as clearly fhewed them to be expert in their bufinefs. After Mr. Hodges had made a drawing of them, as they lay ranged along the fliore, we landed, and took a nearer view of them by going on board feveral. This fleet conlilling of forty fail, equipped in the fame manner as thofe we had feen before, belonged to the little didrict of Tettaha, and were come to Oparree to be reviewed before the king, as the former fleet had been. There were attending on this fleet fome fmall double canoes, which they called Mirais, having on their fore-part a kind of double bed-place laid over with green leaves, each juft fufficient to hold one man. Thefe, they told us, were to lay their dead upon; I they 58 4 their chiefs, I fuppofe they meant, otherwifc their flam muft J774-be few. Otoo, who was prefent, caufed, at my requeft, fome i—n—» of the troops to go through their exercife on fhore. Two Sacurda7 H' parties firft began with clubs, but this was over almoft as foon as begun j fo that I had no time to make my obfervations upon it. They then went to fingle combat, and exhi-* bited the various methods of fighting with great alertnefs; parrying off the blows and pufhes, which each combatant aimed at the other, with great dexterity. Their arms were elubs and fpears ; the latter they alfo ufe as darts. In fighting with the club, all blows intended to be given the legs, were evaded by leaping over it j and thofe intended for the head, by couching a little and leaping on one fide; thus the blow would fall to the ground. The fpear or dart was parried, by fixing the point of a fpear in the ground right before them, holding it in an inclined pofition, more or left elevated according to the part of the body they faw their antagonift intended to make a pufti, or throw his dart at, and by moving the hand a little to the right or left, either the one or the other was eafily turned off with great eafe. 1 thought that when one combatant had parried off the blows, &c. of the other, he did not ufe the advantage which feemed to me to accrue. As, for inftance; after he had parried oft'a dart, he ftill ftood on the defenfive, and fuffered his antagonift to take up another, when I thought there was time to run him through the body. Thefe combatants had no fuperfluous drefs upon them ; an unneceflary piece of cloth or two, which they had on when they began, were prefently torn off by the by-ftanders, and given to fome of our gentlemen prefent. This being over, the fleet departed ; not in ahy order, but as faft as they could be got afloat; and we went with Otoo to one of his dock-yards, where the two large 1774. largepahies or canoes were building, each of which was . ;__j an hundred and eight feet long. They were almoft ready Saturday 14. ^ launch, and were intended to make one joint double pahie or canoe. The king begged of me a grappling and rope, to which I added an Englifh jack and pendant (with the ufe of which he was well acquainted), and defired the pahk might be called Britannia. This he very readily agreed to; and fhe was named accordingly. After this he gave me a hog, and a turtle of about fixty pounds weight, which was put privately into our boat; the giving it away not being agreeable to fome of the great lords about him, who were thus deprived of a feaft. He likewife would have given me a large lhark they had prilbner in a creek (fome of his fins being cut off fo that he could not make his efcape), but the fine pork and fifh we had got at this ifle, had fpoilcd our palates for fuch food. The king, and his prime miniftcr Tec, accompanied us on board to dinner, and after it was * over, took a moft affectionate farewel. He hardly ever ceafed foliciting me, this day, to return to Otaheite; and, juft before he went out of the fhip, took a youth by the hand, and prefented him to me, defiring I would keep him on board to go to Amfterdam to collect red feathers. I told him I could not, fince I knew he would never return 5 but that, if any fhip fliould happen to come from Britain to this ifle, 1 would either bring or fend him red feathers in abundance. This, in fome meafure, fatisfied him ; but'the youth was exceedingly defirous of going; and, if I had not come to a refolution to carry no one from the ifles (except Oedidee if he chofe to go), and but juft refufed Mr. Forfter the liberty of taking a boy, I believe i fliould have conferred. Otoo remained along-fide in his canoe till we were under fail, when he put off, and v. as faluted with .three guns. Our N ! M! i n_ . n._._a. -..[:_ 5 13__n n m n__el__h_n- " n' ' n g n______□_n—qm 0 EE IN o u l ! I i Q Q L Q Q 5] Q ' Q 3= T. IN 1 [I - () () I 3 ii ii if ii. .ii ii n i EE WU II u \ IN" I]--0~f" TJ-----□--□---□ □ Um u U in □ IT U U U LJ "TJm A Draught, /'/,/// andSection of the Britannia Otehite War Canoe, Shewing Two in tbeTtan ;their Distance beingjrom out to Outside it stand fecured witfi Beams and Fore and* Ifi Pieces of Timber tasbd together with Stand made of Caeca Attt /Ja/y II II ■ ■■ Hill nun man References (<> the Plan. L, The (.''/////<■/. I Places f&r the Rowers or those '"I thai use PadeOes m W*Jt&& Were /><"/ of the Canes spacing A,IV\ of the 't'i/ii/'rrs as named on the \Sheer Draught. i.-i.^irf,} part of the Canoe spaetna t.fAofthe Timbers. P. . Pillars. i) . Seats or Thwart* i> * 7 * f -t ;i ■■ i p„M/.>/n.//.t/>-<'t w TSstr Street S/,,;-/.,„„• SeT/u^r.t,/,-// t'r, ///<■ SfnviJ/.,;>,/»„ If. I\,/,>,<;• M'n//'. N ° XV Our treatment at this ifle was fuch as had induced one of '774 r , . May. our gunner's mates to form a plan to remain at it. He <__^—1 knew he could not execute it with fuccefs while we lay-in the bayf therefore took the opportunity, as foon as we were out, the boats in, and fails fet, to Rip overboard, being a good fwimmer. But he was difcovered before he got clear of the fhip; and we prefently hoifled a boat out, and took him up. A canoe was obferved, about half-way between us and the fhore, feemingly coming after us. She was intended to take him up; but as foon as the people in her faw our boat, they kept at a diftance. This was a pre-concerted plan between the man nnd rhem, which Otoo was acquainted with, and had encouraged. When I confidered this man's fituation in life, I did not think him fo culpable, nor the refolution he had taken of ftaying here fo extraordinary, as it may, at firft, appear. He was an Irifhman by birth, and had failed in the Dutch fervice. I picked him up at Batavia on my return from my former voyage, and he had been with me ever fince. I never learnt that he had cither friends or connexions, to confine him to any particular part of the world. All nations were alike to him. Where then could fuch a man be more happy than at one of thefe ifles ? Where, in one of the fineft climates in the world, he could enjoy not only the ncccftarics, but the luxuries of life, in eafe and plenty. 1 know not if he might not have obtained my confent, if he had applied for it in proper time. As foon as we had got him on board, and the boat in, I fleered for Huaheinc, in order to pay a vifit to our friends there. But before wc leave Otaheite it will be neceffary to give fome account of the prefent ftate of that ifland; especially as it differs very much from what it was eight months before. Vol. I. I have I have already mentioned the improvements we found in the plains of Oparree and Matavai. The fame was obferved in every other part into which we came. It feemed to us almoR incredible, that fo many large canoes and houfes could be built in fo fhort a fpace as eight months. The iron tools which they had got from the Englifh, and other nations who have lately touched at the ifle, had, no doubt, greatly accelerated the work; and they have no want of hands, as I mall foon make appear. The number of hogs was another thing that excited our wonder. Probably they were not fo fcarce, when we were here before, as we imagined, and, not enuring to part with any, they had conveyed them out of our fight. Be this as it may, we now not only got as many as we could confume during our Ray, but fome to take to fea with us. When I was laft here, I conceived but an unfavourable opinion of Otoo's talents. The improvements fince made in the ifland convinced me of my miftake; and that he muft be a man of good parts. He has, indeed, fome judicious fenfible men about him ; who, I believe, have a great fliare in the government. In truth, we know not how far his power extends as king, nor how far he can command the afllftance of the other chiefs, or is controulable by them. It fliould, however, feem, that all have contributed towards bringing the ifle to its prefent flourifhing ftate, Wc cannot doubt that there are divifions amongft the great men of this ftate, as well as of moft others; or elfe why did the king tell us, that Towha the admiral, and Poatatou were not his friends ? They were two leading chiefs; and he muft be jealous of them on account of their great power; for, on every occafion, 2 he he feemed to court their intereft. We had reafon to believe that they raifed by far the grcateft number of veflels and men, to go againREimeo,and were to be two of the commanders in the expedition, which wc were told was to take place five days after our departure. Waheatoua king of Tiarabou was to fend a fleet to join that of Otoo, to afRR him in reducing to obedience the chief of Eimco. I think, we were told, that young prince was one of the commanders. One would fuppofe that fo fmall an ifland as Eimeo would hardly have attempted to make head againft the united force of thefe two kingdoms, but have endeavoured to fettle matters by ncgociation. Yet we heard of no fuch thing; on the contrary, every one fpoke of nothing but fighting. Towha told us more than once, that he fliould die there ; which, in fome meafure, fhews that he thought of it. Oedidee told me the battle would be fought at fea; in which cafe the other muft have a fleet nearly equal, if not quite, to the one going againft them; which I think was not probable. It was, therefore, more likely they would remain afhore upon the defenfive; as we were told they did, about five or fix years ago, when attacked by the people of Tiarabou whom they repulfcd. Five general officers were to command in this expedition ; of which number Otoo was one; and, if they named them in order according to the polls they held, Otoo was only the third in command. This feems probable enough; as, being but a young man, he could not have fufficient experience to command fuch an expedition, where the greater! fkill and judgment feemed to be neceffary. I confefs I would willingly have ftaid five days longer, had I been fure the expedition would have then taken place; but \; rather feemed that they wanted us to be gone firft. We Y y 2 had i?74« had been, all along, told, it would be ten moons before it May, . . -. took place; and it was not till the evening before we failed, that Otoo and Towha told us it was to be in five days after we were gone; as if it were neceflary to have that time to put every thing in order; for, while wc lay there, great part of their time and attention was taken up with us. I bad obferved that, for feveral days before we failed, Otoo and the other chiefs had ceafed to folicit my aRiftance, as they were continually doing at firft, till I affured Otoo that, if they got their Reet ready in time, I would fail with them down to Eimeo: after this I heard no more of it. They probably had taken it into confideration, and concluded themfelves fafer without mc ; well knowing it would be in my power to give the viclory to whom f pleafed, and that, at the heft, I might thwart fome favourite cuRom, or run away with the fpoils. But be their reafons what they might, they certainly wanted us to be gone, before they undertook any thing. Thus we were deprived of feeing the whole fleet equipped on this occafion; and perhaps of being fpeclators of a fea-fight, and, by that means, gaining fome knowledge of their manoeuvres. « I never could learn what number of veffels were to go on this expedition. We knew of no more than two hundred and ten, befides fmaller canoes to ferve as tranfports, &c. and the fleet of Tiarabou, the ftrength of which we never learnt Nor could I ever learn the number of men neceflary to man this fleet; and whenever I afked the queftion, the anfwer was, Warou, ivarou, warou, U Tata, that is, many, many, many, men ; as if the number far exceeded their arithmetic. If we allow forty men to each war canoe, and four to each of the others, which is thought a moderate compu- tation^ tation, the number will amount to nine thoufand. An afto-nifliing number to be railed in four diftricTs ; and one of them, viz. Matavai, did not equip a fourth part of its fleet. The fleet of Tiarabou is not included in this account; and many other diflricts might be arming which we knew nothing of. I, however, believe that the whole ifle did not arm on this occafion ; for we faw not the leafl preparations making in Oparree. From what we faw and could learn, I am clearly of opinion that the chief, or chiefs, of each dif-tricT fu per in tended the equipping of the fleet belonging to that diflricT j but, after they are equipped, they muR pafs in review before the king, and be approved of by him. By this means he knows the flate of the whole, before they aflemble to go on fervice. It hath been already obferved, that the number of wan canoes belonging to Attahourou and Ahopata was an hundred and fixty, toTettaha forty, and to Matavai ten, and that this diflricT: did not equip one-fourth part of their numbei\ If we fuppofc every diflricT in the ifland, of which there are forty-three, to raife and equip the fame number of war canoes as Tcttaha, we fhall find, by this eftimate, that the whole ifland can raife and equip one thoufand feven hundred and twenty war canoes, and fixty-eight thoufand able men ; allowing forty men to each canoe. And, as thefe cannot-amount to above one-third part of the number of both fexes, children included, the whole ifland cannot contain lefs than two hundred and four thoufand inhabitants; a number which, at firft fight, exceeded my belief. But, when I came to reflecT on the vaft fwarms which appeared wherever, wo came, I was convinced that this eftimate was not much* if at allj too great. There cannot be a greater proof of the rich— nefs, ncfs and fertility of Otaheite (not forty leagues in circuit) than its fupporting fuch a number of inhabitants. This ifland made formerly but one kingdom; how long R has been divided into two, I cannot pretend to fay; but 1 believe not long. The kings of Tiarabou are a branch of the family of thofe of Opoureonu; at prefent, the two are nearly related; and, I think, the former is, in fome mea-fure, dependent on the latter. Otoo is Riled Earee de hie of the whole ifland; and wc have been told that Waheatoua. the king of Tiarabou muft uncover before him, in the fame manner as the meaneft of his fubjccTs. This homage is due to Otoo as Earee de hie of the ifle, to Tarcvatou, his brother, and his fecond lifter; iu ihc uue as heir, and to the other as heir apparent; his eldeft After being married, is not intitled to this homage. The Eowas and Whannos we have fometimes feen covered before the king, but whether by courtefy, or by virtue of their oftice, we never could learn. Thefe men who are the principal perfons about the king, and form his court, are generally, if not always, his relations. Tee, whom I have fo often mentioned, was one of them. We have been told, that the Eowas, who have the firft rank, attend in their turns, a certain number each day, which occafioned us to call them lords in waiting ; but whether this was really fo I cannot fay. We feldom found Tee abfent; indeed his attendance was neceflary, as being beft able to negociate matters between us and them, on which fervice he was always employed; and he executed it, I have reafon to believe, to the fatisfaction of both parties. It It is to be regretted, that we know little more of this go- *774» vernment than the general out-line; for, of its fubdivifions, c aga _/ clafles, or orders of the conRituent parts, how difpofed, or in what manner connected, fo as to form one body politic, we know but little. We, however, are fure that it is of the feudal kind; and, if we may judge from what we have feen, it has fufficient Rability, and is by no means badly con-UTucTed. The Eoivas and Whannos always eat with the king; indeed I do not know if any one is excluded from this privilege but the.ToufoitK For, as to the women they are out of the queftion, as they never eat with the men, let their rank be ever fo much elevated. Notwithstanding this kind of kingly eRablimment, there was very little about Otoo's perfon or court, by which a Rranger could diftinguifh the king from the fubjecl. I fel-dom faw him dreffed in any thing but a common piece of cloth wrapped round his loins; fo that he feemed to avoid all unneceffary pomp, and even to demean himfelf more than any other of the Earees. I have feen him work at a paddle, in coming to and going from the fhip, in common with the other paddlers; and even when fome ofhisToutotts fat looking on. All have free accefs to him, and fpeak to him where-ever they fee him, without the leafl ceremony: fuch is the eafy freedom which every individual of this happy ifle enjoys. I have obferved that the chiefs of thefe ifles are more beloved by the bulk of the people, than feared. May we not from hence conclude,"that the government is mild and equitable ? We have mentioned that Waheatoua of Tiabarou is related to Otoo. The fame may be faid of the chiefs of Eimeo* Tapa- 1774. Tapamannoo, Huaheine, Ulietea, Otaha, and Bolabola; for —\r-—' they are all related to the royal family of Otaheite. It is a maxim with the Earees and others of fupcrior rank, never to intermarry with the Toutous or others of inferior rank. Probably this cuRom is one great inducement to the eftablifh-ing of the focieties called Eareeoies. It is certain that thefe ibcieties greatly prevent the increafe of the fuperior claffes of people, of which they are compofed, and do not at all interfere with the inferiors or Toutous; for I never heard of one of thefe being an Earrcoy. Nor did I ever hear that a Ton-tou could rife in life above the rank in which he was born. I have occafionally mentioned the extraordinary fondnefs the people of Otaheite fhe wed for red feathers. Thefe they call Oora, and they arc as valuable here as jewels are in Europe, efpecially thofe which they call Ooravine> and grow on the head of the green paroquet; all red feathers are, indeed, eftcemcd, but none equally with thefe ; and they are fuch good judges as to know very well how to diftinguifh one fort from another. Many of our people attempted to deceive them by dying other feathers ; but I never heard that any one fucceeded. Thefe feathers they make up in little bunches, confifting of eight or ten, and fix them to the end of a fmall cord about three or four inches long, which is made of the flrong outfide fibres of the cocoa-nut, twifted fo hard that it is like a wire, and ferves-as a handle to the bunch. Thus prepared they are ufed as fymbols of the Eatuasy or divinities, in all their religious ceremonies. I have often feen them hold one of thefe* bunches, and fomctimes only two or three feathers, between the fore-finger and thumb, and fay a prayer, not one word of which I could ever under-Rand. Whoever comes to this ifland will do well to provide vide himfelf with red feathers, the fined and fmalleft that *774- IViay. arc to be got. He muft alfo have a good ftock of axes, and <-' hatchets, fpikc-nails, files, knives, looking-glaffes, beads, &c. Sheets and fhirts are much fought after, especially by the ladies; as many of our gentlemen found by experience. The two goats, which Captain Furneaux gave to Otoo when we were laft here, feemed to promife fair for anfwer-ing the end for which they were put on fhore. The ewe foon after had tw7o female kids, which were now fo far grown as to be nearly ready to propagate; and the old ewe was again with kid. The people feemed to be very fond of them, and they to like their fituation as well; for they were in excellent condition. From this circumftance we may hope that, in a few years, they will have fome to fparc to their neighbours; and, by that means, they may in time fpread over all the iiles in this ocean. The flicep which we left, died foon after, excepting one, which we underftood was yet alive. We have alfo furnifhed them with a ftock of cats; no lefs than twenty having been given away at this ifte, befides what were left at Ulietea and Huaheinc. Vol. I C H A P. C II A P. XIV. The Arrival of the Ship at the If and of Huaheine; with an Account of an Expedition into the If and, and fvjral other Incidents which happened while fe lay there. AT one o'clock in the afternoon on the 15th, wc anchored in the North entrance of O'Wharic Harbour in the ifland of Huaheine ; hoifled out the boats, warped into a proper birth, and moored with the bower and kedge anchor, not quite a cable's length from the fhore. While this was doing, feveral of the natives made us a vifit, amongft whom was old Oree the chief, who brought a hog, and fome other articles, which he prefented to me, with the ufual ceremony. Next morning, the natives began to bring us fruit. I returned Oree's vifit, and made my prefent to him; one article of which was red feathers. Two or three of thefe the chief took in his right hand, holding them up between the finger and thumb, and faid a prayer, as I underftood, which was little noticed by any prcfenr. Two hogs were, foon after, put into my boat ; and he, and feveral of his friends, came on board and dined with us. After dinner Oree gave me to underftand what articles would be moft acceptable to him and his friends; which were chiefly axes and nails. Accordingly I gave him what he afked, and defired he would diftribute them to the others, which he did, feemingly to the fatisfac-tion of every one. A youth about ten or twelve years of age, age, either his fon or grandfon, feemed to be the perfon of J774- _ n n May. molt note, and had the greateft lhare. \_v_ After the diftribution was over, they all returned auhore. Mr. Forfler and his party being out in the country botanizing, his fervant, a feeble man, was befet by five or fix fellows, who would have Rrippcd him, if, that moment, one of the party had not come to his afliftancej after which they made off with a hatchet they had got from him. On the 17th I went aihore to look for the chief, in order to TuefJay »7* complain of the outrage committed as above; but he was not in the neighbourhood, Being aihore in the afternoon, a perfon came and told mc Oree wanted to fee me. I went with the man, and was conducted to a large houfe where the chief, and feveral other perfons of note, were aflembled in council, as well as I.could underftand. After I was feated, and fome converfation had paffed among them, Oree made a fpeech, and was anfwered by another. I underftood no more of either, than juft to know it regarded the robbery committed the day before. The chief then began to affure mc, that neither he, nor any one prefent (which were the principal chiefs in the neighbourhood) had any hand in it; and defired me to kill, with the guns, all thofe which had. 1 allured him that I was fatisfied that neither he, nor thofe prefent, were at all concerned in the affair ; and that I fliould do with the fellows as he defired, or any others who were guilty of the like crimes. Having afked where the fellows were, and defired they would bring.them to me that I might do with them as he had faid; his anfwer was, they were gone to the mountains, and he could not get them. Whether this was the cafe or not I will not pretend to fay. I knew fair means would never make thern deliver them up; and I Z z 2 had 1774- had no intention to try others. So the affair dropt, and the JViay. * x__*—i council broke up. Tuefday 17. In the evening, fome of the gentlemen went to a dramatic entertainment. The piece represented a girl as running away with us from Otaheite; which was in fome degree true ; as a young woman had taken a paffage with us down to Ulietea, and happened now to be prefent at the repre-fentation of her own adventures; which had fuch an c fleet, upon her, that it was with great difficulty our gentlemen could prevail upon her to fee the play out, or to refrain from tears while it was acting. The piece concluded with the reception flie was fuppofed to meet with from her friends at her return; which was not a very favourable one. Thefe people can add little extempore pieces to their entertainments wdicn they fee occafion. Is it not then reafonable to fuppofe that this was intended as a fatire againfl this girl, and to difcourage others from following her Reps? Wcdaer. 18. In tne morning of the 18th Oree came on board with a prefent of fruit, Rayed dinner, and in the afternoon defired to fee fome great guns fired, (hotted, which I complied with. The reafon of his making this requeft was his hearing, from Oedidee and our Otahcitean paflengcrs, that we had fo done at their ifland. The chief would have had us fire at the hills ; but I did not approve of that, led the fhot fliould fall fhort, and do fome niifchicf. Befides, the effect was better feen in the water. Some of the petty officers, who had leave to go into the country for their amufement, took two of the natives with them to be their guides, and to carry their bags, containing nails, hatchets, &c. the current cafh we traded with here; which the fellows made off" with in the following artful manner. The gentlemen had with them two mufquets mufquets for {hooting birds. After a fliower of rain, their 1774. guides pointed out fome for them to fhoot. One of the muf- «- quets having miffed fire feveral times, and the other having wf' 104 gone off, the inftant the fellows faw themfelves fecure from both, they ran away, leaving the gentlemen gazing after them with fo much furprife, that no one had prcfence of mind to purfue them. The 19th, fhowery morning j fair afternoon ; nothing hap- Thurfday i9, pened worthy note. Early in the morning of the 20th, three of the officers fet FiiJay 20. out on a fhooting party, rather contrary to my inclination; as I found the natives, at leaft fome of them, were continually watching every opportunity to rob ftraggling parties, and were daily growing more daring. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I got intelligence that they were feized and ftripped of every thing they had about them. Upon this I immediately went on fhore with a boat's crew, accompanied by Mr. Forfter, and took pofleftion of a large houfe with all its effects, and two chiefs whom I found in it; but this we did in fuch a manner that they hardly knew what wc were about, being unwilling to alarm the neighbourhood. In this fituation I remained till I heard the officers had got back fafe, and had all their things rcftorcd to them : then I quitted the houfe ; and prefently after every thing in it was carried off. When I got on board I was informed of the whole affair by the officers themfelves. Some little infult on their part, induced the natives to feize their guns, on which a fcuffle en-fued, fome chiefs interfered, took the officers out of the crowd, and caufed every thing which had been taken from them to be rcftorcd. This was at a place where we had before been told, that a fet of fellows had formed themfelves into into a gang, with a refolution to rob every one who fhould go that way. It fhould feem, from what followed, that the chief could not prevent this, or put a ilop to thefe repeated outrages. I did not fee him this evening, as he was not come into the neighbourhood when 1 went on board j but I learnt from Oedidee that he came foon after, and was fo concerned at what had happened that he wept. Saturday Zi. Day-light no fooner broke upon us on the 2 iR, than wc faw upwards of fixty canoes under fail going out of the harbour, and fleering over for Ulietea. On our enquiring the reafon, were told that the people in them were Eareeoies, and were going to vifit their brethren in the neighbouring ifles. One may almoR compare thefe men to Frec-Mafons; they tell us they aflift each other when need requires ; they feem to have cuRoms among them which they either will not, or cannot explain. Oedidee told us he was one ; Tupia was one ; and yet 1 have not been able to get any tolerable idea of this fet of men, from either of them. Oedidee denies that the children they have by their miflreffes are put to death, as wc underftood from Tupia and others. I have had fome converfation with Omai on this fubject., and find that he confirms every thing that is faid upon it in the narrative of my former voyage. Oedidee, who generally flept on fhore, came oft' with a meiTage from Oree, defiring I would land with twenty-two men, to go with him to chaftife the robbers. The meiTenger brought with him, by way of afliftinghis memory, twenty-two pieces of leaves, a method cuftomary amongft them. On my receiving this extraordinary meffage, I went to the chief for better information; and all I could learn of him was, that thefe fellows were a fort of banditti, who had x formed 1774. May. Friday zq. formed themfelves into a body with a refolution of feizing ^774-and robbing our people wherever they found them, and \—:J—> were now armed for that purpofe: for which reafon he ' §yHf wanted me to go along with him to chaftife them. I told him, if I wrent, they would fly to the mountains; but he faid, they were refolved to fight us, and therefore defired I would deftroy both them and their houfe; but begged I would fpare thofe in the neighbourhood, as alfo the canoes and the Whenooa. By way of fecuring thefe, he prefented me with a pig as a peace-offering for the Whenooa. • It was too fmall to be meant for any thing but a ceremony of this kind. This fenfible old chief could fee (what perhaps none of the others ever thought of) that every thing in the neighbourhood was at our mercy, and therefore took care to fecure them by this method, which I fuppofc to be of weight with them. When 1 returned on board, I confidercd of the chief's requeft, which upon the whole appeared an extraordinary one. I, however, refolved to go, lcfl thefe fellows fhould be (by our refufal) encouraged to commit greater acts of violence ; and, as their proceeding would foon reach Ulietea, where I intended to go next, the people there might be induced to treat us in the fame manner, or worfe, they being more numerous. Accordingly, I landed with forty-eight men, including officers, Mr. Forfter, and fome others of the gentlemen. The chief joined us with a few people, and we began to march, in fearch of the banditti, in good order. As we proceeded, the chief's party increafed like a fnow-ball. Oedidee, who was with us, began to be alarmed, obferving that many of the people in our company were of the very party we were going againft, and at laft telling us that they were only leading us to fome place where they could attack us to advantage. Whether there was any truth in this, or it was 1774- was only Oedidee's fears, I will not pretend to fay. He, May. , . P . \-,-1 nowever, was the only perfon we could conlide in, and wc tur ay . regulated our motions according to the information he had given us. After marching fome miles we got intelligence that the men we were going after had fled to the mountains; but I think this was not till I had declared to the chief 1 would proceed no farther. For we were then about crofting a deep valley bounded on each fide by ftecp rocks, where a few men with ftones only might have made our retreat difficult, if their intentions were what Oedidee had fuggefted, and which he ftill perfiftcd in. Having come to a refolution to return, we marched back in the fame order as we went, and faw, in feveral places, people, who had been following us, coming down from the fides of the hills with their arms in their hands, which they inftantly quitted, and hid in the bufhes, when they faw they were difcovered by us. This feemed to prove that there muft have been fome foundation for what Oedidee had faid; but I cannot believe the chief had any fuch defign, whatever the people might have. In our return wc halted at a convenient place to refrefh ourfelves. I ordered the people to bring us fome cocoa-nuts, which they did immediately. Indeed, by this time, I believe many of them wifhed us on board out of the way ; for although no one ftep was taken that could give them the leaft alarm, they certainly were in terror. Two chiefs brought each of them a pig, a dog, and fome young plantain trees, the ufual peace-offerings, and with due ceremony prefented them fingly to me. Another brought a very large hog, with which he followed us to the fhip. After this we continued our courfe to the landing-place, where I caufed feveral vollies to be fired, to convince the natives that w€ could fupport a continual fire. This being done, we all all embarked and went on board ; and foon after the chief J774- following, brought with him a quantity of fruit, and fat '-,- down with us to dinner. We had fcarce dined before more fruit was brought us by others, and two hogs j fo that wc were likely to make more by this little excurfion than by all the prefents wc had made them. It certainly gave them fbme alarm to fee fo Rrong a party of men march into their country ; and probably gave them a better opinion of firearms than they had before. For I believe they had but an indifferent, or rather contemptible idea of mufquets in general, having never feen any fired but at birds, &c. by fuch of our people as ufed to Rraggle about the country, the moft of them but indifferent markfmen, lofing generally two Riots out of three, their pieces often mifling fire, and being flow in charging. Of all this they had taken great notice, and concluded, as well they might, that fire-arms were not fo terrible things as they had been taught to believe. When the chiefs took leave in the evening, they pro-mifed to bring us next day a very large fupply of provifions. Sunday 22. In the article of fruit they were as good as their word, but of hogs, which we moft wanted, they brought far lefs than we expected. Going afhore in the afternoon, I found the chief juft fitting down to dinner. I cannot fay what was the occafion of his dining fo late. As foon as he was feated, feveral people began chewing the pepper-root about a pint of the juice of which, without any mixture, was the firft difh, and was difpatched in a moment. A cup of it was prefented to me ; but the manner of brewing it was at this time fufficient. Oedidee was not fo nice, but took what I re-t ufed. After this the chief wafhed his mouth with cocoa-nut-water ; then he eat of rcpe, plantain, and mahec, of each not a Vol. f. A a a little ; little j and laflly finiflied his repafl by eating, or rather drinking, about three pints of popoie j which is made of breadfruit, plantains, mahee, &c. beat together and diluted with water till it is of the confiflence of a cuflard. This was at the outfide of his houfe in the open air j for, at this time, a play was acting within, as was done almoft every day in the neighbourhood ; but they were fuch poor performances that I never attended. I obferved that, after the juice had been fqueezed out of the chewed pepper-root for the chief, the fibres were carefully picked up and taken away by one of his fervants. On my afking what he intended to do with it, I was told he would put water to it, and ftrain it again. Thus he would make what I will call fmall beer. The 23d, wind eafterly, ao it had been ever fince wc left Otaheite, Early in the morning, wc unmoored, and at eight weighed and put to fea. The good old chief was the laft man who went out of the fhip. At parting I told him we fliould fee each other no more ; at which he wept, and faid, H Let your fons come, we will treat them well." Oree is a good man, in the utmoft fenfe of the word ; but many of the people are far from being of that difpofnion, and feem to take advantage of his old age j Tcraderrc his grandfon and heir being yet but a youth. The gentle treatment the people of this ifle ever met with from mc, and the care-lefs and imprudent manner in which many of our people had rambled about in the country, from a vain opinion that fire-arms rendered them invincible, encouraged many at Huaheine, to commit acts of violence, which no man at Otaheite ever durft attempt. During our flay here we got bread-fruit, cocoa-nuts, &c. more than we could well confume, but not hogs enough, by far, far, to fupply our daily expcncc ; and yet it did not appear 1774. that they were fcarce in the ille. It muft, however, be al- — lowed, that the number we took away, when laft here, muft Mor'(lay z^ have thinned them greatly, and, at the fame time, flocked the ifle with our articles. Befides, we now wanted a proper aflbrtment of trade j what we had being nearly exhaufted, and the few remaining red feathers being here but of little value, when compared to the eftimation they ftand in at Otaheite. This obliged me to fet the fmiths to work to make different forts of iron tools, nails, &c. in order to enable me to procure rcfrefhmcnts at the other ifles, and to fupport my credit and influence among the natives. A a a 2 CHAP. CHAP. XV. Arrival at Ulietea^ with an Account of the Reception we met with therey and the feveral Incidents which happened during our Stay. A Report of two Ships being at Huaheine. Preparations to leave the Ifland^ and the Regret the Inhabitants fjewed on the Occafon. The CharaEltr of Oedidee^ with fome general Obfervations on the Ifands, ^ 774- May. ~.„—-J Monday 23. Tuefday 24, S foon as we were clear of the harbour, we made fail, dL oL and Rood over for the South end of Ulietea. Oree took the opportunity to fend a man with a meflage to Opoony. Being little wind all the latter part of the day, it was dark before we reached the Weft fide of the ifle, where we fpent the night. The fame light variable wind continued till ten o'clock next morning, when the Trade-wind at Eaft prevailed, and we ventured to ply up to the harbour, firft fending a boat to lie in anchorage in the entrance. After making a few trips, we got before the channel, and with all our fails fet, and the head-way the fhip had acquired, fhut her in as far as fhe would go; then dropped the anchor, and took in the fails. This is the method of getting into moft of the harbours which are on the lee-fide of thefe iftes ; for the channels, in general, are too narrow to ply in. We were now anchored between the two points of the reef which form the entrance ; each not more than two-thirds the length of a cable from us, and on which the fea broke with fuch fuch height and violence as, to people lefs acquainted with 1774-the place, would have been terrible. Having all our boats v_^-o out with anchors and warps in them, which were prefently luaday24* run out, the fhip warped into fafety, where we dropped anchor for the night. While this work was going forward, my old friend Oreo the chief, and feveral more, came to fee us. The chief came not empty. Next day wc warped the fhip into, and moored her in, a Wednef. 25.-proper birth, fo as to command all the fhores around us. In the mean time a party of us went aihore to pay the chief a vifit, and to make the cuRomary prefent. At our firft entering his houfe, we were met by four or five old women, weeping and lamenting, as it were, moft bitterly, and at the fame time cutting their heads, with inftruments made of fhark's teeth, till the blood ran plentifully down their faces and on their fhoulders. What was ftill worfe, we were obliged to fubmit to the embraces of thefe old hags, and by that means were all befmeared with blood. This ceremony (for it was merely fuch) being over, they went out, wafhed themfelves, and immediately after appeared as cheerful as any of the company. Having made fome little ftay, and given my prefent to the chief and his friends, he put a hog and fome fruit into my boat, and came on board with us to dinner. In the afternoon, we had a vaft number of people and canoes about us, from different parts of the ifland. They all took up their quarters in our neighbourhood, where they remained fcafting for fome days. We underftood the moft of them were Eareoys. The 26th afforded nothing remarkable, excepting that Thurfday 35> Mr. Forfter, in his botanical excurfions, faw a burying-place for dogs, which they called Marat no tc Gore. But, I think, we 1774- we ought not to look upon this as one of their cufioms • be-<-^—t caufe few dogs die a natural death, being generally, if not Thurfday 26. , * ^ . anvays, killed and eaten, or elfe given as an oilcring to the gods. Probably this might be a Marai or altar, where this fort of offering was made ; or it might have been the whim of fome perfon to have buried his favourite dog in this manner. But be it as it will, I cannot think it is a general cuftom in the nation; and, for my own part, I neither faw nor heard of fuch a thing before. Faday 27. Early in the morning of the 27th, Oreo, his wife, fon, daughter, and feveral more of his friends, made us a vifit, and brought with them a good quantity of all manner of refrefhmcnts; little having as yet been got from anybody clfe. They Raid dinner; after which a party of us accompanied them on fhore, where we were entertained with a play, called Mididdij Harramy, which fignifjes the Child is coming. It concluded with the reprefentation of a woman in labour, acted by a fet of great brawny fellows, one of whom at laR brought forth a flopping boy, about fix feet high, who ran about the Rage, dragging after him a large wifp of ftraw which hung by a flring from his middle. I had an opportunity of feeing this acted another time, when I obferved, that the moment they had got hold of the fellow who reprefented the child, they flattened or preffed his nofc. From this I judged, that they do fo by their children when born, which may be the reafon why all in general have flat nofes. This part of the play, from its newnefs, and the ludicrous manner in which it was performed, gave us, the firft time we faw it, fome entertainment, and caufed a loud laugh, which might be the reafon why they acted it fo often afterwards. But this, like all their other pieces, could en-2 tertain tertain us no more than once ; efpecially as we could gather I"74« , * . ' _ f May. little from them, for want or knowing more of their lan- \__ guage. The 28th was fpent by me in much the fame manner as Saturday 28* the preceding day, viz. in entertaining my friends, and being entertained by them. Mr. Forfler and his party in the country botanizing. Next morning, we found feveral articles had been Rolen Stmd out of our boats lying at the buoy, about fixty or feventy yards from the fhip. As foon as I was informed of it, I went to the chief to acquaint him therewith. I found that he not only knew they were Rolen, but by whom, and where they were; and he went immediately with me in my boat in purfuit of them. After proceeding a good way along-ihore, towards the fouth end of the ifland, the chief ordered us to land near fome houfes, where we did not wait long before all the articles were brought to us, except the pinnace's iron tiller, which I was told was Rill farther off. bur, when I wanted to go after it, I found the chief unwilling to proceed ; and he actually gave me the flip, and retired into the country. Without him I knew I could do nothing. The people began to be alarmed when they faw I was for going farther; by which I concluded that the tiller was out of their reach alfo. I, therefore, fent one of them to the chief to defirc him to return. He returned accordingly ; when we fat down, and had fome victuals fet before us; thinking perhaps that, as I had not brcakfafted, I muft be hungry,, and not in a good humour. Thus I was amufed till two hogs were produced, which they intreated me to accept. This I did, and then their fears vaniflicd ; and I thought myfelf not ill oft'in having gotten two good hogs for a thing which* 1774- which feemed to be quite out of my reach. Matters being x^J^L^ thus fettled, we returned on board, and had the company of Sunday z9 ^ ^ ^ ^ tQ ^nne^ AfCcr tnat WC a}] went afhore, where a play was acted for the entertainment of fuch as would fpend their time in looking at it. Befides thefe plays, which the chief caufed frequently to be acted, there werG a fet of ftrolling players in the neighbourhood who performed every day. But their pieces feemed to be fo much alike, that we foon grew tired of them; efpccially as we could not collect any interefting circum-Rances from them. Wc, our fhip, and our country, were frequently brought on the fiage; but on what account 1 know not. It can hardly be doubted, that this was defigned as a compliment to us, and probably not acted but when fome of us were prefent. I generally appeared at Oreo's theatre towards the clofe of the play, and twice at the other, in order to give my mite to the actors. The only actrefs at Oreo's theatre was his daughter, a pretty [brown girl, at whofe fhrine, on thefe occafions, many offerings were made by her numerous votaries. This, I believe, was one great inducement to her father's giving us thefe entertainments4 fo often. Monday 30. Early in the morning of the 30th, I fet out with the two boats, accompanied by the two Mr. Forflers, Oedidee, the chief, his wife, fon, and daughter, for an eftate which Oedidee called his, fituated at the north end of the ifland. There I was promifed to have hogs and fruit in abundance ; but when we came there we found that poor Oedidee could not command one fingle thing, whatever right he might have to thcWhcnooa, which was now in poffeflion of his brother, who, foon after we landed, prefented to mc, with the ufual cere- ^ moriy, mony, two pigs. I made him a very hand fome prefent in *774-return, and Oedidee gave him every thing he had left of c—j what he had collected the time he was with us. Monday 30, After this ceremony was over, I ordered one of the pigs to be killed and drefled for dinner, and attended myfelf to the whole operation, which was as follows: They firft ftrangled the hog, which was done by three men; the hog being placed on his back, two of them laid a pretty flrong ftick acrofs his throat, and prefled with all their weight on each end; the third man held his hind legs, kept him on his back, and plugged up his fundament with grafs, I fuppofc to prevent any air from pafting or repafling that way. In this manner they held him for about ten minutes before he was quite dead. In the mean time, fome hands were employed in making a fire, to heat the oven, which was clofe by. As foon as the hog was quite dead, they laid him on the fire, and burnt or finged the hair, fo that it came off with almoft the fame eafe as if it had been fcalded. As the hair was got off one part, another was applied to the fire till they had got off the whole, yet not fo clean but that another operation was neceflary; which was to carry it to the fca-flde, and there give it a good fcrubbing with fandy flones, and fand. This brought off all the fcurf, &c. which the fire had left on. After well wafliing off the fand and dirt, the carcafe was brought again to the former place, and laid on clean green leaves, in order to be opened. They flrft ripped up the fkin of the belly, and took out the fat or lard from between the fkin and the flefh, which they laid on a large green leaf. The belly was then ripped open, and the entrails taken out, and carried away in a bafket, fo that I know not what became of them; but am certain they were not thrown away. The blood was next taken out and Vol. I. B b b put put into alargelcaf, and then the lard, which was put to the other fat. The hog was now wafhed clean, both infidc and out, with frefh water, and feveral hot Rones put into his belly, which were fhaken in under the brcaft, and green leaves crammed in upon them. By this time the oven was efficiently heated; what fire remained was taken away, together with fome of the hot Rones; the reft made a kind of pavement in the bottom of the hole or oven, and were covered with leaves on which the hog was placed on his belly. The lard and fat, after being wafhed with water, were put into a vcftel, made juft then of the green bark of a plantain tree, together with two or three hot ftones, and placed on one fide the hog. A hot ftonc was put to the blood, which was tied up in the leaf, and put into the oven ; as alfo breadfruit and plantains. Then the whole was covered with green leaves, on which were laid the remainder of the hot Rones; over them were leaves; then any fort of rub-bifh they could lay their hands on; finifhing the operation by well covering the whole with earth. While the victuals were baking, a table was fpread with green leaves on the floor, at one end of a large boat-houfe. At the clofe of two hours and ten minutes, the oven was opened, and all the victuals taken out. Thofe of the natives who dined with us, fat down by themfelves, at one end of the table, and we at the other. The hog was placed before us, and the fat and blood before them, on which they chiefly dined, and faid it was Mamity, very good victuals; and we not only faid, but thought the fame of the pork. The hog weighed about fifty pounds. Some parts about the ribs I thought rather overdone; but the more flefhy parts were excellent; and the fkin, which by our way of drefling can hardly be eaten, had, by this method, a tafte and flavour fuperior to any thing I ever met met with of the kind. I have now only to add, that during 1774- May. the whole of the various operations, they exhibited a clean- i- linefs well worthy of imitation. I have been the more par- r ticular in this account, becaufe I do not remember that anyone of us had feen the whole procefs before ; nor is it well defcribed in the narrative of my former voyage. While dinner was preparing, I took a view of this Whenooa of Oedidee. It was fmall, but a pleafant fpot; and the houfes were fo difpofed as to form a very pretty village, which is very rarely the cafe at thefe ifles. Soon after we had dined, we fet out for the fliip, with the other pig, and a few races of plantains, which proved to be the fum total of our great expectations. In our return to the fhip, we put afhore at a place where, in the corner of a houfe,-we faw four wooden images, each two feet long, Randing on a fhclf, having a piece of cloth round their middle, and a kind of turban on their heads, in which were Ruck long cocks feathers. A perfon in the houfe told us they were, Eatua no te Toutou, gods of the fervants or Raves. I doubt if this be fufficient to conclude that they pay them divine worfhip, and that the fervants or flaves are not allowed the fame gods as men of more elevated rank. I never heard that Tupia made any fuch diftinclion, or that they worfhipped any vifible thing whatever. Befides, thefe were the firfl wrooden gods we had feen in any of the ifles ; and all the authority we had for their being fuch, was the bare word of perhaps a fuperflitious perfon, and whom we were likewife liable to mifundcrftand. It muft "be allowed that the people of this ifle are in general more fuperflitious than at Otaheite. At the firft vifit i made the chief after our arrival, he defired I would not fuffer any of my people to B b b 2 fhoot moot herons and wood-peckers j birds as facced with them as robin-red-breads, fwallows, &c. are with many old women in England. Tupia, who was a prieft, and well acquainted with their religion, cuftoms, traditions, &c paid little or no regard to thefe birds. I mention this, becaufe fome amongft us were of opinion that thefe birds are their Eatuas, or gods. Wc, indeed, fell into this opinion when I was herein 1769, and into fome others ftill more abfurd, which we had undoubtedly adopted if Tupia had not undeceived us. A man of his knowledge and underftanding we have not fince met with, and consequently have added nothing to his account of their religion, but fuperflitious notions. The people knowing that we fhould fail foon, began on the 31ft to bring on board fruit more than ufual, Amongft thofe who came was a young man who meafured fix feet four inches and fix-tenths; and his filler, younger than him, meafured five feet ten inches and an half. A brifk trade for hogs and fruit continued on the id of June. On the 2d, in the afternoon, we got intelligence that, three days before, two fhips had arrived at Huaheine. The fame report faid the one was commanded by Mr. Banks, and the other by Captain Furneaux. The man, who brought the account, faid he was made drunk on board one of them, and defcribed the perfons of Mr. Banks and Captain Furneaux fowell, that 1 had not the leaft doubt of the truth, and began to confider about fending a boat over, that very evening, with orders to Captain Furneaux, when a man, a friend of Mr. Forfter, happened to come on board, and denied the whole, faying it was tva ivarrc, a lie. The man from whom we had the intelligence was now gone, fo that 1 could not confront them,, and there were none elfe prefent who who knew any thing about it but by report; fo that I laid j774- afide fending over a boat till I fhould be better informed. .«- This evening we entertained the people with fire-works, on Thurfday Zt one of the little ifles near the entrance of the harbour. I had fixed on the next day for failing, but the intelligence from Huaheine put a flop to it. The chief had promifed to bring the man on board who firft brought the account ; but he was either not to be found, or would not appear. In the morning, the people were divided in their opinions ; but in Friday 3. the afternoon, all faid it was a falfe report. I had fent Mr. Clerke, in the morning, to the fartheft part of the ifland, to make inquiries there; he returned without learning anything fatisfacTory. In fhort, the report appeared now too ill founded, to authorifc me to fend a boat over, or to wait any longer here ; and, therefore, early in the morning of the 4th, Saturday 4; I got every thing in readinefs to fail. Oreo the chief, and his whole family, came on board, to take their laft farewel, accompanied by Oo-oo-rou, the Earee de hi, and Boba the Earee of Otaha, and feveral of their friends. None of them came empty; but OO oo-rou brought a pretty large prefent, this being his firft and only vifit. 1 diftributcd amongft them almoft every thing 1 had left. The very hofpitable manner in which I had ever been received by thefe people, had endeared them to me, and given them a juft title to every thing in my power to grant. I queftioned them again about the fhips at Huaheine; and they all, to a man, denied that any were there. During the time thefe people remained on board, they were continually importuning me to return. The chief, his wife and daughter, but efpecially the two latter, fcarcely ever ceafed weeping. I will not pretend to fay whether it was real or feigned grief they fhewed on this this occafion. Perhaps there was a mixture of both; but were I to abide by my own opinion only, I Riould believe it was real. At laR, when we were about to weigh, they took a moft affectionate leave. Oreo's laft requeft was for me to return; when he faw he could not obtain that promife, he afked the name of my Maral (burying-place). As ftrangc a queftion as this was, I hefitated not a moment to tell him Stepney; the parifh in which I live when in London. I was made to repeat it feveral times over till they could pronounce it: then, Stepney Marai no Toote was echoed through an hundred mouths at once. I afterwards found the fame queftion had been put to Mr. Forfter by a man on ftiore; but he gave a different, and indeed more proper anfwer, by faying no man, who ufed the fea, could fay where he fliould be buried. It is the cuftom at thefe llles for all the great families to have burial-places of their own, where their remains are interred. Thefe go with the eftate to the next heir. The Marai at Oparree in Otaheite, when Tootaha fwayed the fcepter, was called Marai no Tootaha; but now it is called Marai no Otoo. What greater proof could we have of thefe people efteeming us as friends, than their wifhing to remember us, even beyond the period of our lives ? They had been repeatedly told that we fhould fee them no more ; they then wanted to know where we were to mingle with our parent dull. As I could not promife, or even fuppofe, that more Englifh fhips would be fent to thofe ifles, our faithful companion Oedidee chofe to remain in his native country. But he left us with a regret fully demonftrative of the efteem he bore to us; nor could any thing, but the fear of never returning, have torn him from us. When the chief teafed me fo much about returning, 1 fometimes gave fuch anfwers as left W^+/$$$$$$%$+^^%9^ left them hopes. Oedidee would inftantly catch at this, >774-take me on one fide, and afk me over again. In fliort, I have > not words to defcribc the anguifh which appeared in this £iturday 4* young man's breaft, when he went away. He looked up at the ihip, burft into tears, and then funk down into the canoe. The maxim that a prophet has no honour in his own country, was never more fully verified than in this youth. At Otaheite he might have had any thing that was in their power to beRow j whereas here he was not in the leafl noticed. He was a youth of good parts, and like mod of his countrymen, of a docile, gentle, and humane difpofition; bur, in a manner, wholly ignorant of their religion, government, manners, cuHorns, and traditions ; confequently, no material knowledge could have been gathered from him, had I brought him away. Indeed, he would have been a better fpecimen of the nation, in every refpecT, than Omai. JuR as Oedidee was going out of the ihip, he afked me to Tatou fome Parou for him, in order to fhew the commanders of any other fliips which might Rop here. I complied with his requefl, gave him a certificate of the time he had been with us, and recommended him to the notice of thofe who might touch at the ifland after me. We did not get clear of our friends till eleven o'clock, when we weighed, and put to fea ; but Oedidee did not leave us till we were almoft out of the harbour. He flayed, in order to fire fome guns ; for it being his Majefty's birthday, we fired the falute at going away. When I firft came to thefe iflands, 1 had fome thought of vifiting Tupia's fa mous Bolabola. But as I had now got on board a plentiful fupply of all manner of refrefh-ments, and the route I had in view allowing me no time to 3 fpare, fpare, I laid this defign afide, and directed my courfe to the Weft; taking our final leave of thefe happy ifles, on which benevolent Nature has fpread her luxuriant fweets with a lavifft hand. The natives, copying the bounty of Nature, are equally liberal; contributing plentifully and cheerfully to the wants of navigators. During the fix weeks we had remained at them we had frefh pork, and all the fruits which were in feafon, in the utmoft profusion ; befides fiih at Otaheite, and fowls at the other ifles. All thefe articles we got in exchange for axes, hatchets, nails, chiflels, cloth, red feathers, beads, knives, fciflars, looking-glaftes, &cc. articles which will ever be valuable here. I ought not to omit iliirts as a very capital article in making prefents ; efpecially with thofe who have any connexions with the fair fex. A fhirt here is full as neceflary as a piece of gold in England. The ladies at Otaheite, after they had pretty well ftripped their lovers of iliirts, found a method of clothing themfelves with their own cloth. It was their cuftom to go on fhore every morning, and to return on board in the evening, generally clad in rags. This furnifhed a pretence to importune the lover for better cloaths; and when he had no more of his own, he was to drefs them in new cloth of the country, which they always left afhore; and appearing again in rags, they muft again be clothed. So that the fame fuit might pafs through twenty different hands, and be as often fold, bought, and given away. Before I finifh this account of thefe iflands, it is neceflary to mention all I know concerning the government of Ulietea and Otaha. Oreo, fo often mentioned, is a native of Bola-bola; but is poflefled of Whcnooas or lands at Ulietea; which, I fuppofe, he, as well as many of his countrymen, got at the conqueft. eonqueft. He refides here as Opoony's lieutenant; feeming »774-to be veiled with regal authority, and to be the fupreme ,.r magiftrate in the ifland. Oo-oo-rou,who is the Earee by heredi- Sdturday 4' tary right, feems to have little more left him than the bare title, and his own Whenooa or diflricT, in which, I think, he is fbvercign. I have always feen Oreo pay him the refpeeT due to his rank; and he was pleafed when he faw me dif* tinguifh him from others. Otaha, fo far as I can find, is upon the very fame footing. Boba and Ota are the two chiefs; the latter I have not feen; Boba is a flout, well-made young man; and wc were told, is, after Opoony's death, to marry his daughter, by which marriage he will be veiled with the fame regal authority as Opoony has now; fo that, it fhould feem, though a woman may be veiled with regal dignity, fhe cannot have regal power. I cannot find that Opoony has got any thing to himfelf by the conquefl of thefe ifles, any farther than providing for his nobles, who have feized on befl part of the lands. He feems to have no demand on them for any of the many articles they have had from us. Oedidee has feveral times enumerated to me all the axes, nails, &c. which Opoony is pofleflcd of, which hardly amount to as many as he had from me when I faw him in 1769. Old as this famous man is, he feems not to fpend his laft days in indolence. When we firft arrived-here, he was at Maurana; foon after, he returned to Bolabola; and we were now told, he was gone to Tubi. I fhall conclude this account of thefe iflands, with fome obfervations on the watch which Mr. Wales hath communicated to me. At our arrival in Matavai Bay in Otaheite, Vol. I. C c c the 378 A VOYAGE RO;UND THE WORLD, >774» -the longitude pointed out by the watch was 20 8' 38" ± too kJ^-^j far to the Weft; that is, it had loft, fince our leaving Queen Saturday 4, chariotte's Sound, of. its then rate of going> 8' 34" V§ This was in about five months, or rather more, during which time it had pafted through the extremes of cold and . heat. It was judged that half this error arofe after we left Eafter Iftand ; by which it appeared that it went better in the cold than in the hot climates. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.